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Eatdrink #82 March/April 2020

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwest Ontario since 2007.

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Issue <strong>#82</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The<br />

Women’s<br />

Issue<br />

<strong>2020</strong><br />

Head Chef Erin Circelli-Russell<br />

The Chef’s Table<br />

Fanshawe College<br />

Dedication • Perspiration • Motivation • Inspiration • Hospitality<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />

eatdrink.ca


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eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,<br />

Melissa Graham, Gary Killops,<br />

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Nancy McSloy, Sue Sutherland Wood,<br />

Tracy Turlin, Kym Wolfe<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />

Social Media Mind Your Own Business<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

OUR COVER<br />

Erin Circelli-Russell —<br />

Head Chef & Instructor at<br />

The Chef’s Table, Fanshawe<br />

College’s teaching<br />

restaurant in Downtown<br />

London — is a stellar<br />

representative of the<br />

outstanding women in our<br />

culinary community that<br />

we celebrate this year. The<br />

tributes begin on page 10.<br />

© <strong>2020</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca or LocalFlavour.ca is strictly prohibited<br />

without the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a<br />

printed circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually, for<br />

a total of 120,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed<br />

in the information, content and/or advertisements published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not<br />

necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes<br />

submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

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www.sportswood.on.ca


Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#82</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Our Third Annual Women’s Issue<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Why a Women’s Issue?<br />

Our Third Annual Celebration<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

6<br />

Spotlight<br />

Women in Food — and Drink!<br />

(<strong>2020</strong>)<br />

Talented Women Making<br />

a Difference<br />

10<br />

Beer<br />

Ladies’ Entrance<br />

This Way to the Brewhouse<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

34<br />

Wine<br />

A Winemaker with Strong Roots<br />

Tanya Mitchell of<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

38<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

By THE EDITORS<br />

42<br />

34<br />

38<br />

57<br />

54<br />

58<br />

Theatre<br />

A Captain Hook for Our Time<br />

Laura Condlln at the Avon Theatre<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

54<br />

Books<br />

Be My Guest<br />

Reflections on Food, Community<br />

and the Meaning of Generosity<br />

By Priya Basil<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

57<br />

Recipes<br />

Taste the Wild<br />

by Lisa Nieschlag and Lars Wentrup<br />

Review & Recipe Selections<br />

By TRACY TURLIN<br />

59<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Stop the Press<br />

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD<br />

62<br />

62<br />

Your sustainable studio who cares<br />

hair • colour • barber • skin • spa • makeup • 4 everyone<br />

140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London<br />

519 709 4247<br />

www.studioHartistgroup.com<br />

@studioHartistgroup


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 5<br />

RESERVE NOW<br />

For Our Famous Gourmet<br />

MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH BUFFET<br />

Sunday, May 10, 11am — 2:30pm<br />

Call for reservations<br />

519-430-6414<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />

¦


Issue #76 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2019<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />

Eleanor Kane<br />

Co-founder,<br />

Stratford Chefs School<br />

6 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Why a Women’s Issue?<br />

Our Third Annual Celebration<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

This annual celebration of women<br />

has become a fixture on the <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

calendar. As I have<br />

noted before, there<br />

has not been a single issue of<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> ever published that<br />

didn’t acknowledge important<br />

contributions from women.<br />

It just wouldn’t be possible<br />

to celebrate our local culinary<br />

culture without writing about<br />

women. So the question has <strong>Eatdrink</strong> #70, 2018<br />

been raised, “Do you really<br />

need to have a Women’s Issue?”<br />

The short answer to this question is a<br />

simple yes. For those who require a more<br />

detailed response, and I don’t want to be<br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The<br />

Women’s<br />

Issue<br />

Dedication<br />

Perspiration<br />

Motivation<br />

Inspiration<br />

Hospitality<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> #76, 2019<br />

dismissive, I will add that<br />

despite significant progress,<br />

the culinary world remains<br />

an unequal playing (and<br />

paying) field, and we want<br />

to acknowledge that and<br />

support and celebrate the<br />

changes for women.<br />

This is the third time<br />

that we have published a<br />

Women’s Issue, and the<br />

calibre of candidates profiled here clearly<br />

demonstrates the challenge we have in<br />

WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!<br />

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter by going to eatdrink.ca/contests<br />

Contest ends <strong>April</strong> 24, <strong>2020</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Erin Helm,<br />

winner of our January/February Draw!


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

drawing up a short list every year. All of these<br />

women would have been a natural fit back<br />

in 2018 or 2019. I know I will say something<br />

similar next year. For those who will protest<br />

the omission of a certain woman here, I can<br />

only assure them that there is next year, and<br />

thank them for their advocacy on behalf of<br />

a strong woman. We do appreciate feedback,<br />

and we welcome suggestions. We’ll keep<br />

publishing this special annual compilation<br />

for the foreseeable future, and be mindful of<br />

celebrating women’s achievements in every<br />

issue of the magazine.<br />

Beyond our general roundup of distinguished<br />

women, we asked our regular contributors<br />

to turn their attention to this issue’s theme.<br />

I believe our readers will be pleased with the<br />

results. I especially like the conversation about<br />

women and beer in George Macke’s “Ladies’<br />

Entrance” column for its balance in looking<br />

back at where the culture has been versus<br />

where we are now. Sexism is sometimes a<br />

subtle force, but with beer it has been blatant.<br />

I’ve long been an admirer of Sue Sutherland<br />

Wood’s take on life, and she hits the mark<br />

2nd Annual Maple Syrup Festival<br />

Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 7, 9am – 1pm<br />

Enjoy maple syrup production artifacts, maple syrup<br />

flavoured products, Canadian crafts, and in-housemade<br />

pancakes by Katherine from Growing Chefs topped<br />

with locally produced maple syrup from our very own<br />

Lynch Maple Farms. We couldn’t be more excited!<br />

Free Kids Craft Program!<br />

Saturdays, 9:30 am – 11:30 am<br />

Run by Dotsy’s Entertainment Co., you’ll find the table<br />

upstairs on the Mezzanine in one of the market booths,<br />

surrounded by good food,<br />

live music and free cooking<br />

classes for adults.<br />

<strong>March</strong> 7:<br />

Canada Critter<br />

Clothespin Puppets;<br />

<strong>March</strong> 14: Leprechaun Door Wreath;<br />

<strong>March</strong> 21: Butterfly and Snails Spring Stamping;<br />

<strong>March</strong> 28: Slime!<br />

<strong>April</strong> 4: Paper Egg Easter Craft<br />

SATURDAYS IN MAY<br />

Join us for mammoth meals,<br />

deals and experiences along<br />

the Oxford County Cheese Trail.<br />

Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market<br />

Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 11th, 8am – 1pm<br />

Enjoy an abundance of local favourites in our annual<br />

Easter celebration, outside on the Market Square.<br />

See our website or Facebook page for further details.<br />

OxfordCountyCheeseTrail.ca<br />

1-866-801-7368 x3355<br />

tourism@oxfordcounty.ca<br />

MARKET HOURS<br />

Mon–Fri 8am–7pm<br />

Saturday 8am–6pm<br />

Sunday 11am–4pm<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ


Hope Made<br />

Delicious<br />

35<br />

YEARS<br />

APRIL 22<br />

25% of sales will be<br />

donated in support of<br />

Regional HIV/AIDS<br />

Connection<br />

www.aTasteForLife.org<br />

See the list of our incredible Taste restaurants!<br />

Reserve a table for a DELICIOUS night out.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

again for <strong>Eatdrink</strong> with her “Lighter Side”<br />

contribution to close this issue. She too takes<br />

a look back at where women have been in our<br />

culture, contrasted with where we are now,<br />

and leaves me with plenty of food for thought.<br />

Progress can be a double-edged sword, and<br />

I appreciate Sue’s attention to this with her<br />

gentle but deft touch.<br />

International Women’s Day, celebrated<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 8, is the ostensible reason for the<br />

timing of the <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Women’s Issue, and<br />

we’re proud to support that. The roots of<br />

the day are in protest movements, both for<br />

women’s suffrage a hundred years ago —<br />

voting rights — and working women’s rights.<br />

Today’s #metoo movement stands clearly in<br />

that tradition, and while the battle for the<br />

vote has largely been won, we all know that<br />

women’s work continues to be a virtual and<br />

literal battleground. As a wise woman once<br />

told me, it’s just as important to celebrate the<br />

positive as it is to protest the negative. I hope<br />

we are doing that with this issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

Peace,<br />

LOVE,<br />

LOVE IT!<br />

SO MANY<br />

SHOPS.<br />

THEMARKETWFD.COM<br />

HALINA A.<br />

GOOGLE REVIEW


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

London Training Centre’s<br />

Culinary<br />

Pre-Apprenticeship<br />

Program<br />

Chef Instructors Steve James & Chandany Chen<br />

Are You an Aspiring Chef?<br />

Just starting out or currently working in the industry, this 6-month<br />

program is the place to gain new skills<br />

• No Cost to Students — Fully Funded by The<br />

Ministry of Labour, Training and Skills Development<br />

• Interactive & Unique Learning Opportunities<br />

• Includes an 8-Week Placement<br />

ondon<br />

ra n ng<br />

CENTRE<br />

www.londontraining.on.ca<br />

This Employment Ontario Program is<br />

Funded by the Government of Ontario<br />

Program Starts <strong>April</strong> 6, <strong>2020</strong><br />

Submit a letter of interest and resume to<br />

Steve James, Program Manager<br />

London Training Centre<br />

steve@londontraining.on.ca<br />

For more information visit:<br />

www.londontraining.on.ca


10 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spotlight<br />

Women in Food — & Drink! (<strong>2020</strong>)<br />

Talented Women Making a Difference<br />

I<br />

t was once a truism that there is a<br />

woman standing behind every great man.<br />

That may still be the reality today but the<br />

women profiled in the following pages<br />

stand here on their own merits. In many cases<br />

there is a man standing proudly beside them,<br />

but their contributions are no secret.<br />

In compiling this list, the only rigid criteria<br />

is that a candidate has not been celebrated<br />

previously in this annual <strong>Eatdrink</strong> tradition.<br />

Our goal is to present a diversity of candidate,<br />

from veteran contributors to our region’s<br />

culinary life, to relative newcomers who<br />

are making a mark. Once again, the list of<br />

worthy candidates is far longer than the final<br />

honour roll, but we’ve resisted the tempation<br />

to shorten the length of the profiles to fit<br />

more women into the limited space we have<br />

available. We assigned a group of writers to<br />

the difficult job of keeping these summaries<br />

brief —an agonizing process — but their<br />

creative snapshots and different approaches<br />

to the job offer insightful introductions that<br />

we believe do justice to some of the most<br />

influential women in our region’s food and<br />

drink culture.<br />

An effort to divide this list according to<br />

roles — chefs, entrepreneurs, and such —<br />

proved futile, as so many of these women<br />

wear multiple hats. On any given day, one<br />

job might define their role, only to change<br />

moments later. These are creative women,<br />

and problem solvers, and that is the common<br />

ground that unites them. One list of names,<br />

and the arbitrary nature of alphabetical order,<br />

follows. Prepare to be impressed.<br />

Nicole Arroyas<br />

Chef/Owner of Petit Paris & The Coop<br />

Rotisserie, London<br />

petit-paris.ca / thecooprotisserie.ca<br />

By Sue Sutherland Wood<br />

Chef Nicole Arroyas always knew that her<br />

career would be centered around food. From<br />

her early years (she was working in the<br />

kitchen at her parent’s restaurant, Archie’s<br />

Fish and Chips, at age 13) to moving to France<br />

to attend the prestigious culinary school,<br />

Institut Paul Bocuse, to running the Auberge<br />

du Petit Prince restaurant for five years, she<br />

has already lived many lives. More recently,<br />

Nicole has been able to create a vehicle for<br />

her long-held love of all things pastry in the<br />

highly-regarded retail/supply patisserie Petit<br />

Paris, located in Covent Garden Market.<br />

“I take each day as it comes and am<br />

thankful for family and for being able to<br />

do what I love, working with an amazing<br />

passionate team every day,” Nicole shares. She<br />

adds that “as a woman, sometimes, you are<br />

not taken seriously and respected; however,<br />

this only drives my passion more and pushes<br />

me to be the best I can be. I am proud to be a<br />

woman raised in Canada where we have equal<br />

rights and opportunities.”


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Nicole’s newest venture, The Coop Rotisserie<br />

Express — online delivery from The Coop<br />

Rotisserie, another of Nicole’s success stories<br />

and also located within Covent Garden —<br />

provides convenient wholesome foods (including<br />

brined slow-roasted chicken), all made from<br />

scratch. A full catering menu has recently been<br />

added with delicious options for breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner and (of course!) desserts.<br />

The Coop Express — at the Commissioners<br />

Road location — will also feature Archie’s<br />

Famous Fish and Chips. Good to know, The<br />

Coop boasts eco-friendly packaging.<br />

Jennifer Boyar<br />

Co-owner of sixthirtynine, Woodstock<br />

sixthirtynine.com<br />

As told to Nancy McSloy<br />

Celebrating 15 years as an independent,<br />

family-owned business, we are Oxford<br />

County’s only farm-to-table restaurant where<br />

menus are seasonal, based on local products<br />

with everything prepared in house.<br />

I am the co-owner with my husband and<br />

business partner, Chef Eric Boyar. We took<br />

over from Eric’s mother last year. Eric has<br />

always been chef and I have always been<br />

involved in some capacity. I manage the front<br />

house, which includes training, scheduling,<br />

serving and assisting our Wine Director to<br />

curate wine, beer and cocktail lists.<br />

As a Registered Nurse, I felt that caring for<br />

people was my true calling. I left nursing to<br />

stay home with my children but felt a void,<br />

wondering what my future would bring.


12 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Serving customers has been a wonderful<br />

way to communicate the care and attention I<br />

practiced as a nurse. Ensuring that customers<br />

have incredible, artisanal meals combined<br />

with the best in genuine, warm, attentive and<br />

professional service makes me happy.<br />

To be hands-on in your business while<br />

balancing home and family life takes effort<br />

and perseverance. This industry is not for the<br />

weak at heart. I love the challenge because<br />

of the feeling you get when you hear a buzz<br />

Natalie Chapman<br />

Manager, David’s Bistro, London<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

As told to Kym Wolfe<br />

I started working at the Bistro as a server<br />

in high school, almost 20 years ago. Once I<br />

started working busy weekends and getting<br />

to know the customers and found a wee bit of<br />

confidence I knew it would be for life!<br />

Erin Circelli-Russell<br />

Head Chef/Instructor at The Chef’s Table,<br />

Fanshawe College, London<br />

https://bit.ly/2wWMLuc<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

London native Chef Erin Circelli-Russell is one<br />

of the city’s most influential chefs and culinary<br />

educators, inspiring hundreds of young chefs.<br />

Chef’s deep appreciation for cuisine developed<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

in your dining room, see guests happy and<br />

relaxed, treating themselves to a nice meal.<br />

You feel a sense of purpose being fulfilled in<br />

front of your eyes.<br />

I love supporting women in our<br />

communities as I can identify with their<br />

struggles. I am a member of Oxford Women<br />

in Networking and sit as a chair on the<br />

International Women’s Day committee. I love<br />

connecting with other businesses to bring<br />

unique events to Oxford County.<br />

Growing up my Dad was not home too<br />

much — he worked six days week until at least<br />

midnight. Once I got to know the business<br />

and the customers, I understood why he put<br />

in that effort and time, and I wanted to do it<br />

with him. Now that I have my own children,<br />

I’m very lucky that Dad tries to help me find a<br />

better balance of work and family time.<br />

There have been challenges — like “the<br />

night from hell” as it is referred to, when the<br />

cash register died. Getting through those with<br />

a team of people all in it together is like no<br />

other satisfaction!<br />

On the flip side you have nights when<br />

things go perfectly with seating and orders,<br />

the kitchen is on fire — in a good way! — and<br />

customers tell you how much they enjoyed<br />

their evening. And then, when it’s all cleaned<br />

up, you get to sit down for dinner with your<br />

work family, which for me is extra special<br />

because that includes my Dad.<br />

What makes David’s Bistro special for me<br />

is our customers. We are serving some third<br />

generation! I work front of the house, and we<br />

try to have unique and interesting wines. To<br />

ensure I have the knowledge to recommend<br />

and pair wines, I have taken the first level<br />

sommelier course.<br />

Eventually I will take over the restaurant,<br />

but right now Dad is still “king of the castle.”<br />

Even when he retires it will always be David’s<br />

Bistro.<br />

when she was exposed to a variety of foods and<br />

traditions at an early age. This would fuel her<br />

lifelong passion for cooking. Working in a pasta<br />

and sandwich shop at the age of 15 was the<br />

beginning of her culinary career.<br />

Enrolling in the Culinary Management<br />

program at Fanshawe College, she became<br />

an award-winning graduate focusing on and<br />

excelling in culinary competitions. It was at this<br />

point that she embraced her career with passion.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

She completed her culinary apprenticeship in<br />

Scotland and continued to travel the world,<br />

diving deep into local cultures and cuisines.<br />

Upon returning home in 2003, she secured<br />

a position at Fanshawe College as a Seal Chef.<br />

Currently Circelli-Russell is the head chef<br />

instructor guiding hospitality students at<br />

The Chef’s Table, the teaching restaurant at<br />

Fanshawe College. With a passion for food<br />

and education, she guides students towards<br />

gaining practical hands-on experience and an<br />

understanding of what it really means to work<br />

in and be committed to the hospitality industry.<br />

The Chef’s Table honours the procurement of<br />

local and sustainable foods and is focused on<br />

The heart of<br />

Downtown<br />

Strathroy<br />

Girls Getaway Weekend!<br />

2 Junior Suites each with queen beds<br />

and a $100 voucher for the Bistro.<br />

Erin Circelli-Russell<br />

serving quality and seasonal Ontario grown<br />

ingredients and Ocean Wise approved seafood.<br />

Circelli-Russell encourages the students<br />

to try new and exciting mashups with food<br />

and drink. In her eyes, everything can be<br />

paired with everything, and there are no<br />

rules about food and cooking. Outside the<br />

restaurant, you’ll find her baking up a storm<br />

and producing some fantastic cakes and<br />

sweet creations, as well as teaching her three<br />

children about the world of food and the local<br />

culinary community. “Start them young, and<br />

with any luck, they too will develop a lifelong<br />

love of the kitchen,” says Circelli-Russell.<br />

Subject to availability. Valued at $300.<br />

Historic Post Office & Customs Building<br />

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500<br />

www.clocktower-inn.com


14 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Ellie Rachel Cook<br />

Co-wner, The Root Cellar, LOLA Bees & On<br />

The Move Organics, London<br />

hrootcellarorganic.ca<br />

facebook.com/londonontariolearningapiary<br />

onthemoveorganics.ca<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

As a long-time sustainable food advocate, Ellie<br />

Cook is co-founder and co-owner of Old East<br />

Village’s farm-to-table organic restaurant The<br />

Root Cellar, and the natural urban beekeeping<br />

project LOLA Bees. She is also a co-owner of<br />

On The Move Organics.<br />

As an avid beginner beekeeper,<br />

unconventional special events coordinator,<br />

and environmentalist, Ellie strives to create<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

opportunities for people to engage with the<br />

local food system. The Root Cellar is the only<br />

genuinely farm-to-table restaurant in London.<br />

“Since we opened our doors in 2012, our<br />

ethos at The Root Cellar has been to support<br />

and grow our local, sustainable food system,<br />

says Cook. “My partners and I aren’t as<br />

much restaurateurs as environmentalists<br />

who approach our work through the lens of<br />

local food. Our menus are simple, familiar<br />

and seasonal, and we’re pretty fanatical<br />

about our sourcing practices. Because of the<br />

incredibly hard work of our sister company,<br />

On The Move Organics, we’re able to purchase<br />

directly from dozens of small organic farms<br />

surrounding London.”<br />

“As business owners, we’re also interested<br />

in how far we can push the envelope of<br />

sustainability. In 2019 we joined Green<br />

Economy London, and that’s been an<br />

invaluable resource for us. We’ve been avid<br />

composters since day one and go to great<br />

lengths to divert all our organic waste from<br />

the landfill. These days we’re increasingly<br />

interested in reducing food waste and<br />

packaging, tracking/reducing/offsetting our<br />

carbon emissions, and learning more about<br />

regenerative and urban agriculture and<br />

supporting pollinators.”<br />

“My food philosophy continues to evolve<br />

as I learn more about sustainable agriculture.<br />

These days I’m particularly interested in<br />

the intersections between food, place, and<br />

sustainability. Also relevant is whether my<br />

picky kids eat the food I prepare!”<br />

Roula Dereza<br />

Owner, Merla-Mae, London<br />

merlamae.com<br />

By Sue Sutherland Wood<br />

Roula Dereza, charming owner and businesswoman<br />

at Merla-Mae Ice Cream, has been<br />

making customers happy for many years<br />

with a simple yet effective set of values. “My<br />

parents were always entrepreneurs and taught<br />

me the value of hard work and dedication,”<br />

Roula shares. “Even now, my mother [Julie<br />

Stavrou], who is retired, still comes in on a<br />

daily basis to make sure everything is up to<br />

par. That alone makes me very passionate<br />

to strive to be successful, to continue my<br />

parents’ legacy.”<br />

Many of Merla-Mae’s faithful customers<br />

are now bringing their own children (or even<br />

Roula Dereza (left) & Julie Stavrou


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

grandchildren!) to taste their first “half and<br />

half” soft serve cone or place an order for one<br />

of the famous ice cream cakes for birthdays<br />

and special occasions. It seems fitting that<br />

such a family-fueled institution would create<br />

family traditions for others, and Roula says<br />

many customers report having Merla-Mae<br />

cakes every year since they were born. This<br />

old fashioned, vintage vibe is completely<br />

intentional and Roula notes that she takes<br />

pride in offering “fast friendly service” and<br />

this is reflected again in the Merla-Mae motto:<br />

Through these windows we serve the finest<br />

people in the world … our customers. That’s<br />

how we felt in 1957 and we STILL feel the<br />

same today!”<br />

Manuela Frongia<br />

Manager, Blackfriars Bistro & Catering<br />

and Lavery Culinary Group, London<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

laveryculinarygroup.ca<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

Photo: Phong Tran<br />

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community<br />

The<br />

Village<br />

Teapot<br />

NOW OFFERING<br />

“Take Home<br />

Prepared Meals”<br />

Menus posted on<br />

FB every Monday<br />

Ask about Catering &<br />

Private Event Bookings<br />

Manuela Frongia was born in London,<br />

Ontario and moved back to her father’s<br />

hometown of San Mugheo in Sardinia when<br />

she was 10 years old. Returning to Canada<br />

in 1997, she worked with Bryan Lavery and<br />

Chef Barbara Toomer at the former Murano<br />

Restaurant. Frongia is a founding member of<br />

London’s former Slow Food Convivium and<br />

Breakfast<br />

Brunch<br />

Lunch<br />

Cream Teas<br />

Wed–Sun 10–2:30<br />

Closed Mon & Tues<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

Available<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)


16 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

advocate of the Slow Food Movement. She has<br />

worked closely with Lavery producing events<br />

over the past 20 years. Frongia has been, and<br />

is still, instrumental in various fundraising<br />

and charitable initiatives.<br />

As catering manager at Blackfriars Bistro<br />

& Catering, Frongia works alongside culinary<br />

luminaries Betty Heydon and Chef Jacqueline<br />

Shantz. Her milieu and focus are in the dining<br />

room at Blackfriars Bistro, an environment<br />

where have women felt cared for and valued<br />

for 24 years.<br />

Frongia is also a long-time associate of the<br />

Lavery Culinary Group and helps manage<br />

and customize culinary experiences, special<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

events, pop-ups and cooking classes. This<br />

involves planning, coordinating, delivering<br />

and evaluating a variety of innovative<br />

fundraising, culinary and special events.<br />

Frongia has worked as a cooking instructor<br />

with an expertise in regional Italian cuisines,<br />

particularly Sardinian, and has a strong<br />

background in regional types of pasta making,<br />

taught to her by her Calabrian mother. More<br />

recently she has worked as a food stylist for<br />

Gotham Studio boutique photography and<br />

videography studio located in downtown<br />

London. Frongia has two daughters, Isabela<br />

and Sophia, and a spirited puppy named Luna.<br />

Nancy Hotson<br />

Owner, Buzz Stop, Stratford<br />

buzzstop.com<br />

By Melissa Graham<br />

You can tell the moment you walk in that<br />

Nancy Hotson’s Buzz Stop was the first<br />

gourmet coffee shop in Stratford. It smells<br />

fantastic. Nancy has been on York Street for<br />

30 years. She has fresh roasted coffee beans<br />

delivered weekly. Organic and fair trade,<br />

including Ethiopian, Viennese and Turkish.<br />

She sells a lot of beans. There is tea, too.<br />

Nancy says she feels “blessed to have such<br />

loyal customers from far and wide.” There are<br />

lots of locals and downtown business-people<br />

that come in for a cup to go, or a pound for<br />

home. In the summer there are regulars that<br />

come every year when they visit the Festival.<br />

Many have been coming since the coffee<br />

shop opened. And not just for the fabulous<br />

coffee. Nancy has a vast selection of wellstocked<br />

humidors holding some of the best<br />

cigars in the world. Cuban, of course, but also<br />

Nicaraguan, Dominican, and Honduran. She<br />

also has pipe tobacco and pipes.<br />

There are jams, marmalades (bought one!)<br />

and preserves from Scotland. And biscuits<br />

and crackers from Holland to serve with local<br />

Stonetown cheeses, and jars of preserved<br />

lemons and chestnuts.<br />

Nancy volunteers with Feline Friends, and<br />

all tips go to animal-related causes. There is a<br />

quaint courtyard patio in the shaded front of<br />

The Buzz Stop where you can relax and enjoy a<br />

river view with your coffee.<br />

Deborah Hunter<br />

Co-owner/Chef de Cuisine/CFO, The King<br />

Edward Restaurant & Pub, Ilderton<br />

thekingedward.com<br />

By Sue Sutherland Wood<br />

After well over a decade of success at The<br />

King Edward Restaurant & Pub in Ilderton,<br />

co-owner Deborah Hunter is still refreshingly<br />

upbeat about the many hats she wears in her<br />

busy life. “There is nothing more feminine


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Deborah Hunter<br />

than a strong woman who is confident in<br />

the role of Co-owner, Chef de Cuisine and<br />

CFO, while also being a mother, wife and<br />

grandmother,” Deborah says.<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 17<br />

The King Edward prides itself on<br />

authenticity as a pub (Deborah’s husband<br />

and co-owner, Rich Hunter, is a genuine<br />

Englishman himself) and as you might<br />

expect, there is a stellar selection of both<br />

locally crafted beers, British imports and<br />

cider. (The King Edward also boasts one of<br />

the few hand-pulled cask beer systems in<br />

Southwestern Ontario). The menu is also<br />

extensive (over 50 different kinds of chicken<br />

wings) but traditional pub-fare such as Steak<br />

and Murphy’s Pie and a selection of handmade<br />

burgers are also available, as well as<br />

Daily Specials and take-out options. (Deborah<br />

points out that everything is “scratch-made,<br />

utilizing local ingredients.”) Noteworthy is<br />

a particularly thoughtful Kids’ Menu, with<br />

realistic but wholesome, keeping-it-real<br />

choices such as buttered penne pasta with<br />

parmesan and a salad.<br />

Running a business while balancing<br />

family commitments is gritty, hard work but<br />

Deborah’s sincere passion and energy have<br />

helped make the King Edward a sought-after<br />

destination.


18 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Kimberly Hurley<br />

Co-owner, Keystone Alley, Braai House and<br />

The Little Green Grocery, Stratford<br />

keystonealley.com<br />

braaihouse.ca<br />

thelittlegreengrocery.com<br />

By Melissa Graham<br />

Kimberly Hurley is the co-owner of Keystone<br />

Alley, Braai House and The Little Green<br />

Grocery. Keystone Alley has been a part of<br />

Stratford’s casual fine dining scene for over<br />

three decades. Kimberly and her husband/<br />

business partner Anthony Jordaan have<br />

owned Keystone for four years and continue<br />

to offer the quality hospitality that people<br />

have come to expect.<br />

Braai House is a new adventure that<br />

began with great success last year. It focuses<br />

on South African open-fire cooking (Braai<br />

is Afrikaans and rhymes with dry) — fire<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

bringing together people, food and nature in a<br />

comfortable atmosphere.<br />

The Little Green Grocery offers local<br />

produce in low-waste and reusable containers.<br />

The store offers many new products with a<br />

seriously environmental attitude, taking little<br />

steps towards changing the way we shop. “No<br />

positive change comes with guilt,”<br />

Kimberly says.<br />

Kimberly is a Doctor of Audiology,<br />

a career she continues. She also<br />

does the marketing, front of house,<br />

customer relations, and inspired<br />

social media for all three businesses.<br />

Anthony is a chef who’s been in the<br />

industry for 20 years. They are equal<br />

partners in their adventures. And<br />

they have three young children.<br />

Kimberly and Anthony have a<br />

close relationship with their staff.<br />

Kimberly says, “We’ve created a<br />

family of people with the same<br />

common goal.” There is no “us<br />

or them,” she adds. Many staff<br />

are graduates from chef schools and share<br />

Kimberly and Anthony’s love of seeing people<br />

enjoy what they have created. Kimberly<br />

stresses love of food, health and wellness. The<br />

couple are also involved in volunteer work,<br />

including Soup’s On and Heartburn Day.<br />

Keystone and Braai House have two of<br />

the nicest patios in town where, thanks to<br />

fireplaces, fire table and torches, you can sit<br />

well into the fall. They also offer in-house craft<br />

beer brewed in the basement. You may find<br />

Kimberly on the patio enjoying a well deserved<br />

glass at the end of day — whenever that is!<br />

Katherine Jones<br />

Chef, Growing Chefs! Ontario, London<br />

growingchefsontario.ca<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

Executive Chef Katherine Jones is a Stratford<br />

Chef School graduate and for eight years has<br />

been with Growing Chefs! Ontario, working<br />

to challenge the perceived limitations of<br />

children and youth in the kitchen. Her<br />

interest lies in using hyper-local ingredients<br />

and foraged finds. A day in the work-life of<br />

Jones can include anything from leading a<br />

family-activity cooking class for 150 people<br />

in a school, to helping the Beet lunch team<br />

produce up to 300 healthy lunches daily for<br />

their school and camp lunch program. It<br />

might also include harvesting vegetables in<br />

the learning garden or hosting a fundraising<br />

dinner for Growing Chefs! programming<br />

initiatives.<br />

Jones’ interest in foraging took root<br />

after her daughter was born. She stated,<br />

“We lived next to a beautiful green space<br />

and throughout the seasons we would take<br />

baskets to collect, taste, and learn together,<br />

as a family, about what was growing in our<br />

backyard.” As a chef, this opened her eyes<br />

to the bounty of ingredients available and


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Katherine Jones<br />

allowed her food to become more individual,<br />

idiosyncratic and exciting. What she did<br />

not anticipate was that, once she gained a<br />

firmer knowledge and understanding of the<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 19<br />

culinary and medicinal uses of plants, her<br />

perception of Canadian cuisine would change.<br />

“I am proud to be able to incorporate these<br />

truly Canadian ingredients into menus, and<br />

to share this knowledge about invasive plant<br />

species and native plants, as a way to get<br />

people excited about going outdoors and<br />

walking through the forests with their friends<br />

and families,” she says.<br />

Food education centres can teach children<br />

and families to develop healthy relationships<br />

with food. “Food literacy means building<br />

excitement around food, and a willingness to<br />

learn about what we eat. Reading recipes and<br />

cooking meals from scratch will significantly<br />

increase food literacy. If kids have a hand in<br />

what they are making, they are much more<br />

likely to try it,” says Jones. “What we try to<br />

do at Growing Chefs! is to let people have<br />

fun with food. It is not about your technical<br />

skillset, or the nutritional breakdown of<br />

recipes, just cooking with your children and<br />

playing in the kitchen will increase everyone’s<br />

food literacy.


20 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Dianne Krampien &<br />

Annette Gerber<br />

Distinctly Tea, Stratford<br />

distinctlyteastratford.ca<br />

By Melissa Graham<br />

Dianne Krampien has been selling tea<br />

on York Street for over a decade. She<br />

started as an employee and became<br />

the owner nine years ago. Her right<br />

hand is her daughter Annette Gerber.<br />

“We work well together,” says<br />

Dianne. “I love working with my<br />

mother,” Annette adds.<br />

Both Dianne and Annette studied<br />

at the Tea and Herbal Association of Canada<br />

and are certified tea sommeliers.<br />

Annette continues, “I love finding the right<br />

tea for the right person.”<br />

They enjoy loyal customers from near and<br />

far. More recently they have noticed a younger<br />

audience popping in for a cup.<br />

The tea selection is vast, lining the walls up to<br />

the ceiling. All kinds of tea: Earl Grey, Oolong,<br />

all the greens, fruit, and even chocolate teas. All<br />

naturally flavoured. The teas come in multiple<br />

sizes, from a 10-gram taster up to a kilogram.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Most of the tea is blended in Germany.<br />

A selection of beautiful Polish pottery and<br />

Japanese teapots, traditional and modern,<br />

decorate the store. Dianne and Annette host<br />

tea tastings in the winter, but in the summer<br />

they are too busy.<br />

Hot tea to go is available all year, and iced<br />

tea in the summer to enjoy while you walk<br />

along the river. “Tea is so good for your health.<br />

I have been known to be called a tea pusher!”<br />

Dianne tells me. And indeed — I did buy some<br />

excellent tea.<br />

Deb Kussmann<br />

Owner, Pepper Tree Spice Co., Port Stanley<br />

& Western Fair Market, London<br />

peppertreespice.com<br />

As told to Nancy McSloy<br />

Launched as Hyde Park Spice in 2010, the<br />

company was rebranded as Pepper Tree Spice<br />

in 2012. We are now Canada’s leading artisan<br />

spice crafter with over 300 organic and natural<br />

spices, best known for our 90-plus proprietary<br />

artisan hand-crafted blends made on-site in<br />

Port Stanley. Our blends are made with little<br />

to no salt, wheat, dairy or additives. We also<br />

carry gourmet foods, gluten-free and vegan<br />

options, local artisan cheese and bread, as well<br />

as quality kitchenware.<br />

We offer a fresh alternative to mainstream<br />

spice solutions as well as private blending<br />

services for clients nationwide. It is a spice<br />

wonderland! Our cooking classes and workshops<br />

are a great platform to learn about local and<br />

international cooking and more about spices.<br />

Our business is for everyone regardless of<br />

culinary experience. By offering the highest<br />

quality products available, exceptional<br />

customer service and a welcoming space our<br />

customers can be creative and inquisitive. For<br />

me the creativity is endless!<br />

This business has been a natural fusion of<br />

three significant influences in my life: a farm<br />

upbringing, an art degree and a 20-plus-year<br />

career in manufacturing management. At 30<br />

I returned to school and obtained a master’s<br />

degree in business. It is never too late to put<br />

yourself out there! I did at 45 and love it!


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

My advice to other women would be: don’t<br />

cut corners, do your research, find a niche and<br />

be prepared to work long hours. Surround your<br />

self with great, supporting people and go for it!<br />

Lori Lupton<br />

Sales Representative, Pelee Island Winery,<br />

Kingsville<br />

peleeisland.com<br />

As told to Kym Wolfe<br />

I started in this business 35 years ago in<br />

Stratford and learned from wine expert Bill<br />

Munnelly, the founder of Billy’s Best Bottles.<br />

He’s still my mentor. Bill brought wine culture<br />

to everyone from the novice wine drinker to<br />

the wine collector. I’ve adopted his philosophy<br />

— you can enjoy a good bottle of wine<br />

without having to spend a fortune.<br />

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

At Metzger’s,<br />

we follow Old World<br />

recipes to create healthy and<br />

wholesome foods. We hand select<br />

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA<br />

Beef and offer superior local Pork,<br />

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially<br />

proud of our own handcrafted<br />

artisan-style meats and salamis. We<br />

are confident that you will taste the<br />

Metzger Meats difference.<br />

I’ve been with Pelee Island Winery for 20<br />

years. My job is all about creating relationships,<br />

and they’ve allowed me be as creative as possible<br />

with our clients. Many have been long term<br />

clients in the hospitality industry, who I work<br />

with to create wine lists. I have the pleasure<br />

of working with brides and grooms to help<br />

them choose wines for their special day, with<br />

the LCBO to promote our wines, and with the<br />

general public at trade shows.<br />

Pelee offers Southwestern hospitality at the<br />

winery in Kingsville and the pavilion on the<br />

island. I love bringing customers to both. As<br />

the southernmost inhabited point in Canada,<br />

Pelee Island is still a well-kept secret. There are<br />

always lots of laughs and a bit of education or<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products


22 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

the sharing of something new about our wines.<br />

One of my favourite memories goes back<br />

to when I was working with the LCBO. I was<br />

at Vinexpo in Bordeaux and the Canadian<br />

flag was raised after an Ontario winery was<br />

Meredith Maywood<br />

Product Development & Marketing Tourism<br />

Specialist, Tourism Oxford, Woodstock<br />

tourismoxford.ca<br />

As told to Nancy McSloy<br />

We support and work with over 300<br />

businesses and organizations in growing and<br />

celebrating tourism in Oxford County.<br />

Facilitating and celebrating the food and<br />

drink scene in Oxford County, we provide<br />

opportunities for businesses to meet and<br />

collaborate. A great example of this was the<br />

development of the Oxford County Cheese<br />

Trail and Oxford Fresh. The Cheese Trail is<br />

a self-guided culinary tour involving over<br />

25 food producers, restaurants, cultural<br />

attractions and accommodation providers.<br />

Oxford Fresh celebrates local food producers<br />

and restaurants that feature their ingredients.<br />

It has been an honour to work so closely<br />

with businesses as they craft new experiences<br />

for visitors, welcoming them and hearing<br />

stories of how Oxford inspires them. Visitors<br />

can now picnic in a blueberry patch, learn<br />

about aging cheese, make truffles or roast<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

awarded the top prize. I’m very proud of how<br />

Ontario has grown its world class wineries,<br />

and to have been a small part of that success<br />

by promoting not just Pelee Island but all<br />

Ontario wines.<br />

coffee. Seeing business people opening their<br />

doors and sharing their passions makes me<br />

proud of where I am.<br />

My advice to other women: get out and<br />

network and meet the people who inspire you.<br />

Work with new people in innovative ways and<br />

celebrate each others’ accomplishments.<br />

Growing up in rural PEI gave me a passion for<br />

local food, the environment and the art of story<br />

telling. Through my work I can do just that!<br />

Bhan Mudliar<br />

Chef/Owner, New Delhi Deli, Covent Garden<br />

Market, London<br />

https://bit.ly/3ceRozU<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

Photo: Phong Tran<br />

Bhan Mudliar was born in Nadi, Fiji Islands,<br />

and later moved to Sigatoka, an urban<br />

centre on the island of Viti Levu. Mudliar<br />

developed a strong work ethic early, alongside<br />

her sugarcane farmer father. Sugar cane<br />

is indigenous to the islands of the South<br />

Pacific, and farming is a difficult way to make<br />

a living. She immigrated to Canada to assist<br />

her brother almost two decades ago. In return<br />

her brother put her through the Fanshawe<br />

Culinary Management program, where she<br />

completed five semesters.<br />

Mudliar worked at Fanshawe Pioneer Village<br />

for a few years, producing large quantities of<br />

“Canadian” food for large events. She worked


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

in the kitchen at Black Trumpet Restaurant for<br />

a year and with respected culinary instructor<br />

and educator, Maya (Clarke) Love, at Real<br />

Canadian Superstore. She also worked at the<br />

Covent Garden Market part-time, eventually<br />

purchasing the New Delhi Deli, becoming the<br />

fourth owner of the business.<br />

Mudliar works seven days a week, making<br />

everything from scratch, on-site. She started<br />

cooking with her mother at the age of four.<br />

Both parents cooked at home. Mudliar serves<br />

a distinct Indian-South Asian/Caribbean<br />

fusion cuisine. In many Fijians’ homes,<br />

cuisines from other cultures are prepared<br />

on a regular basis, such as Indian masalas<br />

(Mudliar roasts and grinds her own Indian<br />

and Caribbean spice blends) and specialties<br />

from South Asia and the West Indies. This<br />

cuisine is rooted in and reflects the diaspora<br />

of hundreds of thousands of indentured<br />

labourers taken to the sugar cane fields of<br />

the Fiji Islands, Caribbean, South Africa and<br />

Mauritius to replace freed African slaves.<br />

Mudliar’s repertoire includes items such as<br />

jerk chicken (it takes three months to ferment<br />

a batch of fiery scotch bonnet peppers to<br />

make her jerk seasoning), oxtail, curry goat,<br />

roti wraps, onion bhajias, samosas and<br />

seafood, curry chicken and Jamaican patties<br />

that only skill and expertise can produce<br />

properly. The New Delhi Deli offers a selection<br />

of gluten-free, plant-based and vegan options.<br />

Mudliar’s niece Seema Narayan recently<br />

arrived from Fiji via the United States to give<br />

her a helping hand at the Deli. Mudliar has<br />

enrolled her in the Fanshawe College Culinary<br />

program, to bring things full circle.<br />

Ann Neydon Wilson<br />

Owner, Oxley Estate Winery, Harrow<br />

oxleyestatewinery.com<br />

As told to Kym Wolfe<br />

My husband Murray Wilson and I both grew<br />

up on farms. When I retired from practicing<br />

law I was ready for another adventure; I think<br />

Murray just wanted to drive a tractor again!<br />

We started the winery in 2010 when we<br />

planted our first five acres of vines on a<br />

farm near our home. We named the winery<br />

after the historic hamlet of Oxley where it<br />

is located. We have a rich sandy soil that<br />

grapevines love, and in year two we had a<br />

hellishly hot summer — perfect conditions for<br />

growing grapes! We opened the winery and<br />

restaurant in a renovated 1920 barn, built the<br />

“a gastronomical landmark for over 24 years”<br />

Booking<br />

NOW for<br />

Mother’s Day!<br />

“Where ALL Mothers<br />

Are Queen!”<br />

May 10<br />

Bistro & Catering<br />

Chef-driven Farm-to-Table Cuisine<br />

Dietary Needs Accommodated<br />

Ample Free Lunch Parking Mon–Fri<br />

Available for Private Dinner Parties Mon–Sat<br />

Gift Certificates Available<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca


24 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Ann Neydon Wilson<br />

big patio and outdoor fireplace, and planted<br />

the large gardens that grace our site. When we<br />

had the basics, we set out to hire a great staff<br />

and succeeded by hiring young people from<br />

our rural neighbourhood and small<br />

town. We now have two farms<br />

across the road from each other,<br />

20 acres of vines and a distinctive<br />

fruit-forward wine making style.<br />

We’ve been involved in the<br />

annual Explore the Shore weekend<br />

along our road since it started in<br />

2010. We have great neighbours,<br />

and the 22-kilometer stretch of<br />

road along Lake Erie is full of agribased<br />

entrepreneurs.<br />

My favourite part of each day<br />

is working with the young people<br />

we work with here — managers,<br />

tasting bar staff, chefs, servers, dishwashers,<br />

including our son and four grandsons. They<br />

are full of fun, smarts and fresh ideas, so<br />

every day is a good day at Oxley.<br />

.<br />

Kimberly Nunez<br />

Owner, Cream Beanery Cafe, London & Mt.<br />

Brydges<br />

facebook.com/creambeanerycafe/<br />

As told to Nancy McSloy<br />

We offer delicious food and beverages in a<br />

delightful atmosphere suitable for all. We<br />

are one of the few pour-over coffee bars in<br />

London. The coffee is ground fresh, we use<br />

filtered water and manually pour the coffee<br />

on the spot. Our fair-trade coffee beans are<br />

organically sourced from Columbia and other<br />

countries and roasted in Mt. Brydges. We also<br />

have over 30 varieties of organic loose-leaf tea.<br />

My role is quite simply everything! A typical<br />

day/week includes serving, cooking, baking,<br />

making gelato, staff scheduling, payroll,<br />

shopping and more. Owning your business,<br />

you do it all.<br />

Seeing our customers on a regular basis,<br />

conversing with them is so special. Having<br />

them understand and appreciate how hard we<br />

work (for them) is so rewarding. Seeing a child<br />

— or adult — excited about our ice cream<br />

flavours is fun!<br />

If you are looking for a rewarding career<br />

and enjoy food and drink, I would say, “go<br />

for it”. Understand that it is not always easy,<br />

requiring a huge commitment. The hours are<br />

long, and you will have struggles as you grow.<br />

I didn’t plan to be a café owner. I was an<br />

elementary school teacher for 14 years. When<br />

my husband was transferred to London, I<br />

didn’t go back to teaching. When an ice cream<br />

business came up for sale, we decided to<br />

leave our past and try something new. The<br />

business was seasonal, so in December 2017<br />

we expanded and opened the London location,<br />

and in 2019 we opened in Mt. Brydges with<br />

plans to further expand.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 25<br />

at the London Hunt Club<br />

<strong>April</strong> 30 th<br />

5<br />

Different Chefs &<br />

Course Dinner<br />

ONE INCREDIBLE EVENING<br />

supporting BethanysCure<br />

Cocktail Hour 5:00PM<br />

5 different restaurants hosting tasting stations!<br />

Featured signature cocktails with<br />

an amazing Silent Auction.<br />

Dinner Program 6:30PM<br />

5 local Chefs will take you on a culinary<br />

journey throughout the evening. Live Auction<br />

hosted by the one and only The Auctionista!<br />

Musical Guest:<br />

Paul Zubot & The Hollywood Band<br />

Tickets $200.00 each<br />

call 519-858-HOPE or visit<br />

BethanysHope.org


26 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Liz Payne<br />

Owner, The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop,<br />

Stratford<br />

themilkywhey.ca<br />

By Melissa Graham<br />

The sign is from Monty Python’s cheese shop sketch.<br />

The first thing you notice when you walk into<br />

Liz Payne’s Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop<br />

in Stratford is the quote on the back wall:<br />

‘Cheese — milk’s leap toward immortality.’<br />

(Clifton Fadiman.)<br />

“I had been thinking about a cheese shop<br />

for a long time. The opportunity presented<br />

itself and I made it happen,” says Liz.<br />

Liz has chosen local artisanal and small<br />

batch cheeses as well as a varied selection<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

of products from Quebec, the Maritimes,<br />

Manitoba and BC, and cheeses from around<br />

the world. Seasonally related blues, cheddars,<br />

and goat cheeses share the shelves.<br />

The Milky Whey offers not only a wellcurated<br />

cheese cooler but also many<br />

dry goods. Liz offers charcuterie, local<br />

honey and honeycomb. She has cheese<br />

boards, knives and fabulous olives, as<br />

well as olive oils from Spain, Provence<br />

and Greece. The dry goods started as<br />

an afterthought — she had to have<br />

crackers! — and now offers a variety<br />

of products you can’t get elsewhere in<br />

the city.<br />

Liz studied at the Cheese Education<br />

Guild with founder Kathy Guidi — a<br />

Canadian cheese industry leader. She<br />

chose Stratford to set up home after<br />

the company she was working for in<br />

marketing went bankrupt.<br />

Liz is involved in the Hunters<br />

Banquet, a fundraiser held every year<br />

by the Local Community Food Centre, where<br />

wild game and fish are donated, prepared,<br />

and served by a team of volunteers from the<br />

culinary community.<br />

The Milky Whey also has a warm and cozy<br />

back room where Liz offers private Saturday<br />

afternoon tastings and pairings with wines<br />

and local beers. Liz is a wonderful host for an<br />

afternoon nosh and conversation.<br />

Kate St. Laurent<br />

Baker/Owner, Bake Shop Studio, London<br />

bakeshopstudio.com<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

Cake designer and baker Kate St. Laurent<br />

was born and raised in London, Ontario.<br />

Possessing an artistic nature, St. Laurent<br />

grew up playing piano, drawing, painting and<br />

singing in the choir throughout public and<br />

high school. St. Laurent began her career not<br />

in the pastry arts but Fine Arts, attending<br />

Fanshawe College and then completing her<br />

Bachelor of Fine Arts at NSCAD in Halifax.<br />

St. Laurent began the search for work in a<br />

creative field and landed in the up-and-coming<br />

world of custom cakes and sugar flowers,<br />

using her artistic skills in the medium of<br />

buttercream. She began working in bakeries<br />

back in her hometown, gaining a wealth of<br />

experience and knowledge before deciding to


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

open a shop in 2016.<br />

St. Laurent’s focus for Bake Shop Studio<br />

is to specialize in artistic cake designs while<br />

maintaining the integrity of traditional<br />

scratch baking methods. Her Fine Arts<br />

background provides inspiration, and she<br />

creates beautiful and delicious works of edible<br />

art. Everything is made in-house including<br />

French macarons, cupcakes, brownies, and<br />

cheesecake as well as a selection of gluten-free<br />

and vegan options.<br />

Bake Shop Studio found a perfect home<br />

in the heart of Wortley Village in November<br />

2018, upstairs above what has become the new<br />

Wolfe Pack Company Bar. Former co-worker<br />

Vanessa Fields joined St. Laurent and is now<br />

head baker. St. Laurent lives in London with<br />

her son Miles — who enjoys leftovers and is<br />

the official taste tester for Bake Shop Studio<br />

— and her partner, Tim.<br />

Suzy Schlotzhauer<br />

Pastry Chef/Owner, AO Pasta, Stratford<br />

aopasta.com<br />

By Melissa Graham<br />

Suzy Schlotzhauer is making a big move<br />

this year. She and her husband and business<br />

partner, Kris, and their new partner, Tom<br />

Van Oosterhout, are moving their successful<br />

restaurant AO Pasta to a great new location<br />

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28 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

in downtown Stratford. They have been in<br />

business since June 2018.<br />

AO Pasta, taken from the initials of<br />

the couple’s two children, has created a<br />

comfortable, informal dining experience that<br />

welcomes families, date nights and take out.<br />

They are filling a gap between fine dining and<br />

fast food.<br />

Suzy says they weren’t really thinking about<br />

moving but this great opportunity came up.<br />

Now they will be closer to the theatre and<br />

have more dining and kitchen space. Suzy is<br />

also looking forward to being more involved<br />

this year. “I am excited to get back in the<br />

kitchen after having kids,” she says.<br />

Suzy is originally from Calgary and<br />

trained as a pastry chef at the International<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Culinary Centre in New York City. She and<br />

Kris worked for many years at a variety of<br />

fine dining restaurants in Toronto before<br />

moving back to Kris’s hometown of Stratford<br />

to open their own place. Suzy says she will<br />

be “focusing on Italian desserts using fresh<br />

and simple ingredients.” She will be making<br />

the pasta every day to go with AO’s made to<br />

order sauces, as well as baking most of the<br />

bread in house.<br />

AO Pasta has been in Stratford for a short<br />

time, but is already a local favourite. For the<br />

last two years Suzy and Kris have participated<br />

in the fund raiser Empty Bowls for the House<br />

of Blessing. AO Pasta opens on Wellington<br />

Street this <strong>April</strong>.<br />

Jean Vedova<br />

Innkeeper/Owner, Kettle Creek Inn, Port<br />

Stanley<br />

kettlecreekinn.com<br />

As told to Nancy McSloy<br />

The original structure dates to 1849. After<br />

extensive renovations we opened the inn in<br />

1983 offering dining and accommodations. We<br />

renovated again in 1990. For over 35 years we<br />

have provided everything from fine dining to<br />

great pub fair. Our latest project has been the<br />

creation of a “people-watching patio” along<br />

the front sidewalk.<br />

The bottom line stops with me. I have done<br />

everything from waitressing to marketing<br />

to being the CFO. Just don’t put me in the<br />

kitchen. I am the planner and worry wart.<br />

It gives me incredible pleasure when guests<br />

tell me how much they enjoy our amazing<br />

cuisine and genuine hospitality, or when<br />

they say how much they enjoyed their luxury<br />

suite. I love it when newcomers are pleasantly<br />

surprised that we are much more than what<br />

is apparent from the street, and greeting<br />

repeat guests who are now bringing their<br />

grandchildren.<br />

The food/drink industry is becoming more<br />

complicated. It is difficult to get trained staff<br />

with the same passion as you. If you have a<br />

culinary talent you are in an ideal position.<br />

But you need to keep a sense of humour and<br />

love what you do!<br />

I left Cape Breton, headed to Alberta,<br />

ended up in Ontario, opening the inn. That<br />

started an incredible adventure in the tourism<br />

industry from local organizations in Elgin<br />

County to helping establish the Ontario Finest<br />

Inns organization. I have travelled the world<br />

by bike and kayak, but having the inn is what<br />

has given me that zest for life.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Cindy Walker<br />

Chocolatier/Owner, Chocolatea, Ingersoll<br />

chocolatea.ca<br />

As told to Nancy McSloy<br />

Featuring<br />

Creative Menus<br />

from Chefs<br />

Erryn Shephard<br />

& Ben Sandwith<br />

Ladies<br />

Nights for<br />

Breast & Colon<br />

Cancer<br />

<strong>March</strong> 24, 25 & 26<br />

Always Available<br />

for Caterings!<br />

Chocolatea is a retail shop that sells ethicallytraded<br />

tea and makes in-house handcrafted<br />

chocolates. Our chocolates are made<br />

from scratch in small batches using fresh<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Always Closed Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

Benmiller Inn & Spa<br />

escape the ordinary<br />

55 Unique Guest Rooms<br />

Four Diamond Dining & Accommodation<br />

Indoor Heated Pool, Hot Tub & Sauna<br />

Getaways, Conferences & Weddings<br />

25 Acres of Scenic River & Countryside<br />

Renewing Petit Aveda Spa<br />

519.524.2191<br />

1.800.265.1711<br />

www.benmiller.ca<br />

81175 Benmiller Line<br />

Goderich ON N7A 3Y1


30 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

ingredients. The chocolate flavours change by<br />

season, or, just because!<br />

We educate people with their tea choices as<br />

all teas are not the same. We are passionate<br />

about the region and telling the local food<br />

story through our chocolates. Quality,<br />

freshness and authentic ingredients make<br />

our chocolates unique. This paired with<br />

sustainable, high quality Belgian chocolate<br />

allows us to offer a truly unique product.<br />

Customer satisfaction is key! We enjoy<br />

chatting with travellers and locals alike.<br />

Behind the scenes I love to experiment with<br />

new flavour combinations in the chocolate.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Sometimes people are skeptical until they<br />

try it! Lime and basil are a combination that<br />

puzzles many.<br />

Chocolatea just celebrated our 5th anniversary.<br />

I recently started Truffle Camp which has<br />

become a hit. We have been nominated and I<br />

am a finalist with Ontario’s Southwest for an<br />

Innovation Award. Without trying I have created<br />

a following that has people driving from<br />

other areas strictly for my chocolate.<br />

I would say, you love what you do and have<br />

a personal support system, take the leap of<br />

faith. Translate the love into your business<br />

and your customers will love it too.<br />

Maryam Yaro Wright<br />

Chef/Owner of YaYa’s Kitchen, London<br />

yayaskitchen.ca<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

Photo: Phong Tran<br />

Co-founder and chef/owner Maryam Yaro<br />

Wright of YaYa’s Kitchen arrived in Canada<br />

in 2014. After three weeks in Toronto, she<br />

and her husband were off to Baker Lake in<br />

Nunavut for five years, where she worked as<br />

a Lands Administrator. It was a culture shock<br />

coming from Tula, Gombe State, Nigeria,<br />

where daytime temperatures can exceed<br />

45 °C degrees, to Nunavut, where winter<br />

temperatures can drop to -50° C.<br />

It was in Nunavut that Maryam learned how<br />

to fish. With her husband, she started hosting<br />

community-building dinners highlighting local<br />

fish and also game hunted by her husband,<br />

which she prepared with authentic Nigerian/<br />

Sahel spices for community dinners.<br />

After five years in Nunavut and with<br />

Maryam pregnant with her third child, the<br />

family relocated to London and purchased a<br />

house, sight unseen. They decided to continue<br />

hosting their traditional dinner and posted<br />

the event on Facebook. The response was<br />

surprisingly positive and 20 people attended<br />

their first dinner. This was the beginning of<br />

YaYa’s Kitchen, which has since evolved into<br />

a chef-driven, community-building pop-up<br />

featuring a multi-course meal for 40 people.<br />

The experience is unique because it features<br />

a family-style communal table and storytelling,<br />

with an elevated dining atmosphere where<br />

patrons dress semi-formally. The focus of the<br />

evening is on food and conviviality. You’ll be<br />

introduced to each course by the host of the<br />

pop-up. Maryam and a team of volunteers cook<br />

and serve the meal based on the authentic<br />

Black experience. The bi-monthly cultural<br />

experience takes place at the London Food<br />

Incubator in Old East Village.<br />

Wright is the eldest of four siblings and<br />

now has four children of her own. YaYa’s<br />

Kitchen means “older sister’s kitchen” in<br />

Hausa, one of over 300 Nigerian languages.<br />

Wright has been cooking since she was eight<br />

years old and grew up surrounded by the<br />

diverse flavours of Nigerian/Sahel cuisine.<br />

The dishes find inspiration in the diversity of<br />

cuisines and specialties from the hundreds of<br />

ethnic groups that comprise Nigeria. Maryam<br />

explains, “You can go from one village to<br />

another, or just down the road, and the food is<br />

entirely different.”


Simply the finest authentic Italian cuisine<br />

available in the region!<br />

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 31<br />

• Family-Owned & Operated<br />

• Beautiful patio on Thames River<br />

• Catering and 2 well-appointed<br />

Private Function Rooms available<br />

• Family-friendly<br />

(Kids Menu Available)<br />

From-scratch cooking with<br />

the best local ingrendients<br />

231 King Street West, Chatham<br />

519-360-1600<br />

Open for Dinner Daily / Lunch Monday-Saturday<br />

mammamariasristorante.ca


32 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Sylvia Zietek<br />

Owner, Pierogi Queen, London<br />

pierogiqueen.ca<br />

By Bryan Lavery<br />

Sylvia Zietek was born and raised in London,<br />

Ontario and went to Catholic Central High<br />

School before heading to Ottawa to study<br />

linguistics, which led her to explore her love of<br />

language and culture. She backpacked through<br />

Europe and Central and South America,<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

learning about different cultures and cooking.<br />

Zietek worked in various restaurants for a<br />

decade, mainly in London and Port Stanley.<br />

She worked in front-of- house and back-ofhouse<br />

positions as well as management for<br />

Casey’s, Kelseys, and GT’s On the Beach.<br />

Last year, equipped with a reliable business<br />

and marketing plan, Zietek launched Pierogi<br />

Queen, her chef-driven indie food truck,<br />

offering an innovative from-scratch local<br />

menu. Food trucks are incubators for culinary<br />

innovation and Zietek, a natural entrepreneur,<br />

completed a year-long certificate program<br />

for startups at Fanshawe College. Later she<br />

immersed herself in the College’s Leap IN<br />

Incubator, a nine-week summer program that<br />

focuses on mentorship and business growth<br />

and supports startups with seed funding and<br />

one-on-one in-depth business analysis.<br />

Pierogi Queen is part of the London<br />

Food Truck Association, a talented group<br />

of dedicated food truck owners who work<br />

together to support each other and grow the<br />

local food truck scene.<br />

Zietek was taught how to make pierogi from<br />

her Babcia (Grandma) at five years old and<br />

learned other traditional Polish dishes from<br />

her mother. Zietek offers an always-evolving<br />

menu with a selection of flavourful pierogis<br />

such as her grandmother’s classic potato and<br />

cheddar, jalapeño cheddar, buffalo chicken and<br />

apple pie. She has the flexibility of being able<br />

to create new flavours based on the seasonality<br />

and local ingredients. At Heeman’s Food Trucks<br />

on the Farm last September, Zietek also served<br />

schnitzel and cabbage rolls. Those will be<br />

regular menu items this year when she is back<br />

on the road in mid-<strong>April</strong>.<br />

Profile Contributors<br />

BRYAN LAVERY, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large, brings years of professional experience in the<br />

restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurant<br />

owner ,and partner in the culinary experience and<br />

consulting business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on<br />

the lookout for stories <strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps<br />

shape the magazine under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

NANCY LOUCKS-MCSLOY is a freelance writer who<br />

loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared<br />

in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and<br />

Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality,<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>, and many other publications.<br />

SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance writer and<br />

regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. Read more of Sue’s work<br />

on her blog. www.speranzanow.com<br />

MELISSA GRAHAM has waitressed, bartended,<br />

managed, dishwashed, food prepped, and catered while<br />

also working as an actor. She taught ESL for many years,<br />

worked in new play development, and currently teaches<br />

Writing and Communications at Stratford Chefs School.<br />

KYM WOLFE is a freelance writer and speaker based in<br />

London. Whether people read her articles or books, attend<br />

a presentation or take a walking tour, she hopes that they<br />

will learn something interesting, entertaining or useful,<br />

and will consider it time well spent. www.kymwolfe.com


eatdrink: The Local Food<br />

WIN<br />

& Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 33<br />

A LOCAL FLAVOUR<br />

OVERNIGHT TRIP<br />

to<br />

CHATHAM-KENT<br />

A Luxurious Road Trip<br />

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Wine Tasting at Early Acres Estate Winery<br />

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Go to localflavour.ca/contests to enter and for complete details.<br />

Contest runs until September 1, <strong>2020</strong>. Dates are subject to availability. Prize has no cash value.


34 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Beer<br />

Ladies’ Entrance<br />

This Way to the Brewhouse<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

That image of plaid-wearing<br />

30-something men with big, bushy<br />

beards selling<br />

you a bitter<br />

IPA? Forget about it.<br />

The craft beer<br />

industry is ready for a<br />

woman’s touch.<br />

“I think that women<br />

have more of an impact<br />

on the craft beer industry<br />

than ever before in the<br />

history of the beer,” said Erica Hughes, General<br />

Manager of Upper Thames Brewing and the<br />

Brickhouse Brewpub in Woodstock. “There is so<br />

much opportunity for different styles of beer,<br />

using local ingredients, supporting other small<br />

businesses, collaboration and networking —<br />

all of which I believe are attractive to women.<br />

There has been a shift!”<br />

Hughes was in the franchise restaurant and<br />

hospitality industry for 10 years before making<br />

the switch to what was then a new craft brewery.<br />

“I didn’t know much about the craft beer<br />

industry, but what my past franchised world<br />

taught me was valuable: managing people,<br />

marketing, and policies and procedures. The<br />

question was, could I have a passion for the<br />

craft beer industry?”<br />

“Quickly the stars<br />

aligned and I was shifting<br />

my career to be<br />

general manager of the<br />

fastest growing and<br />

most exciting local business<br />

in Oxford County.<br />

I was now part of this<br />

A vintage sign indicating the bar door that women could<br />

enter through — if they were accompanied by a man. growing business, in a<br />

predominantly malerun<br />

operation, that I didn’t know much about.”<br />

“Luckily, I had a team of owners/bosses<br />

that gave me full autonomy with my ideas,<br />

input, and suggestions for their business.<br />

I started doing what I knew best, asking<br />

questions and becoming immersed in what<br />

would turn out to be a dream job. I learned<br />

quickly that the craft beer industry was not<br />

so cutthroat, but more collaborative, helpful<br />

and open on best practices.”<br />

It was only 50 years ago that women going<br />

out for a drink had to enter hotels through a<br />

designated “ladies and escorts” door. [This had<br />

nothing to do with paid escorts. Women had<br />

to be accompanied .wby a male companion or<br />

were barred from entering.]<br />

It made news in Toronto<br />

in 1971 when a singles bar<br />

opened in Toronto and<br />

women could legally enter<br />

unescorted.<br />

For decades, big beer<br />

companies used bikini-clad<br />

women to sell their products<br />

to the target audience — men.<br />

General Manager Erica Hughes<br />

(left) and Taproom Supervisor<br />

Vanessa Taylor help run Upper<br />

Thames Brewing and the<br />

Brickhouse Brewpub in Woodstock


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“Women can drink and enjoy beer, too,”<br />

Hughes said. “And that hasn’t been the<br />

belief historically. Instead, women have been<br />

used as marketing tools to attract men and<br />

increase sales, a trend that occurred with the<br />

big domestic brands. I think that it’s most<br />

absurd that the belief at one time was that<br />

beer wasn’t meant for women to drink and if<br />

they did, it wasn’t proper or acceptable, but it<br />

was perfectly acceptable to use their beauty to<br />

attract men to drink it.”<br />

Still, craft breweries throughout Canada and<br />

the United States have had their share of marketing<br />

missteps when trying to come up with<br />

edgy or punny beer names such as Big Tiddy<br />

Assassin, Wailing Wench, Chunky Gal Amber,<br />

Midnight Sun Panty Peeler, and Poly gammy<br />

Porter. Craft brewers today aim higher.<br />

“Beer labels and can designs lead to a big<br />

opportunity to be more creative than ever<br />

before,” Hughes said. “The flashiest, welldesigned,<br />

or most attractive label or logo on the<br />

shelf are what people are drawn to. These labels<br />

appeal to both genders and are a breakthrough<br />

in being inclusive of both sexes. Gone are the<br />

days of selling beer with sex appeal.”<br />

It’s not just in beer names and label design<br />

that women are placing craft beer on the high<br />

road. Brew development has become a key role.<br />

“There are beers being created every day<br />

that either have women in mind as the target<br />

or are being created by a woman based on her<br />

tastes or desires in a beer,” Hughes said. They<br />

range from low-alcohol fruity beers all the way<br />

up the scale to heavy porters and stouts.<br />

In terms of naming new beers in a way<br />

that’s catchy and fun for everyone, Hughes<br />

points to one she had a hand in, Take A Hike<br />

Dry-Hopped Pale Ale.<br />

“Take a Hike has gone on to be listed with<br />

the LCBO and sold all over Ontario,” she said.<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 35<br />

“It’s a close number two seller in our taproom<br />

and brewpub and is my favourite Upper<br />

Thames beer. I particularly like the sarcasm<br />

behind the name, but that it also stays true<br />

to our brand and our Canadian or outdoor<br />

theme. ‘Take a hike!’, ‘No! You take a hike!’ —<br />

I love laughing with people over the double<br />

meaning in the name.”<br />

There are brands to which many female<br />

patrons gravitate. “We have an amazing<br />

following from both genders at both locations,”<br />

Hughes said. “If I were to guess, women<br />

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36 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Katie Anderson-Gautreau is co-owner of Shakespeare<br />

Brewing Co., in the village of Shakespeare, near Stratford.<br />

make up approximately 30 to 40 per cent of<br />

our regular patrons. Craft beer has become a<br />

hobby. It’s an opportunity for women to be<br />

on the same playing field as men. We have an<br />

exclusive mug club — The Voyageur Society —<br />

with a membership that continuously grows to<br />

include more and more women.”<br />

At Shakespeare Brewing near Stratford,<br />

co-owner Katie Anderson-Gautreau’s interest<br />

in craft beer was sparked when she and<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

husband Ayden toured Europe.<br />

“[Being in the craft beer business] certainly<br />

wasn’t something I had thought I would be<br />

doing in the future, as I was going through<br />

university,” she said. “I liked beer back then<br />

but I wasn’t very adventurous. I really started<br />

to see craft beer as part of my life while Ayden<br />

and I were in Europe. When we were staying at<br />

a farm in England that had an on-site brewery<br />

and a pub over the hill, my appreciation of<br />

beer really began to grow.”<br />

“It became a hobby of ours to visit craft<br />

breweries and try different styles of craft beer.<br />

When Ayden began working at Bell City we<br />

knew we wanted to open our own brewery at<br />

some point, and it was just a matter of learning<br />

as much as we could until that could happen.”<br />

Anderson-Gautreau said women — or anyone<br />

new to craft beer — are initially surprised that<br />

there are so many different styles available.<br />

“I find my taste buds are constantly<br />

changing,” she said. “I go through phases<br />

where I love IPAs, then lagers, then sours.<br />

There really is something for every taste bud<br />

in the craft beer world. The best part about<br />

craft beer is that the people in the industry<br />

are passionate about it and are happy to share<br />

Get to The Farm, folks!<br />

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and DESTINATION CRAFT BREWERY in BLYTH<br />

40035 BLYTH RD., BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Katie Anderson-Gautreau with her husband Ayden and<br />

their two children outside their brewery.<br />

their knowledge and what they create.”<br />

She’s noted little divide between the kinds<br />

of beers women order versus men.<br />

“For the most part both men and<br />

women like to try new flavours and styles<br />

to determine what they like,” Anderson-<br />

Gautreau said. “Many times those who are<br />

new to craft beer, men or women, tend to lean<br />

towards the lighter beers because that may be<br />

what they are used to. Once they try the beers<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 37<br />

they are surprised by how much they enjoy<br />

the more bitter beers or the flavours of a dark<br />

beer like our milk stout.”<br />

Craft brewery taprooms have nothing in<br />

common with the smoky hotel barrooms<br />

of the 1960s and are little like the musicthumping,<br />

meat market discos of the 1970s<br />

and 1980s. Many taprooms are set up like<br />

living rooms or have long, group tables meant<br />

to be shared with other patrons to encourage<br />

conversation with each other and the staff,<br />

including owners and brewmasters.<br />

“Women just want a place they feel welcome<br />

and can hang out with their friends, partners,<br />

or kids. I always feel so much better when<br />

I go to a brewery and feel like my kids are<br />

welcome too. It means I can spend my time<br />

enjoying and appreciating my beer rather than<br />

worrying about the kids.”<br />

“I think in general, everybody likes a<br />

judgment-free zone when they go to a craft<br />

brewery, whether they are new to craft beer or<br />

a craft beer enthusiast.”<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />

explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO and craft<br />

breweries.


38 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

A Winemaker with Strong Roots<br />

Tanya Mitchell of Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

It was about 12 years ago on my first<br />

visit to Sprucewood Shores Estate<br />

Winery that I met Tanya Mitchell, the<br />

winemaker at the family owned and<br />

operated winery located on the shores of<br />

Lake Erie just outside of Amherstburg. At<br />

that time, she was Ontario’s youngest female<br />

winemaker. The wines she was making then<br />

were very good. And they continue to get<br />

better every year.<br />

Tanya has grown up with the Ontario wine<br />

industry. She is now married with children<br />

and balances family with work and is a mentor<br />

to future female winemakers looking to follow<br />

her path.<br />

gk: How did you become the winemaker for<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery?<br />

tm: Our family was developing the concept<br />

for the winery during the last year of my<br />

Chemical Engineering degree. I took the<br />

opportunity to spend a harvest at Henry<br />

of Pelham since it was close to McMaster<br />

University. This taught me a lot about the lab<br />

analysis and gave me a glimpse into the cellar.<br />

Mostly, it developed a very strong interest in<br />

the winemaking side of the business for me.<br />

It was perfect timing for me to jump right<br />

in from the ground up in something I was<br />

passionately curious about. Turns out, it was<br />

the perfect career for me in so many ways.<br />

gk: Your family has always owned the winery.<br />

How did it all begin?<br />

tm: The vineyard land was purchased back<br />

in the 1970s by my parents Hannah and<br />

Gord Mitchell, and our first vineyard plot<br />

was planted by hand, by us and our closest<br />

relatives, in the late 1980s. I still remember<br />

that day so well, my first real glance at the<br />

hard work ahead of us. What I didn’t realize<br />

at the time, was how incredible a feat my


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

parents had already accomplished, and<br />

just how far these vines would take us. We<br />

planted strong roots for our family to grow<br />

a business and a reason to always keep us<br />

working together.<br />

gk: What interests you the most about wine?<br />

tm: It is a living thing, constantly changing,<br />

and surprising me. It always keeps me on<br />

my toes. Bonus, it tastes great and when<br />

someone loves my products, I glow in the<br />

praise. There is a lot of hard work that goes<br />

into every bottle, so it’s wonderful when it’s<br />

received well.<br />

gk: What are you trying to achieve with your<br />

wines?<br />

tm: I always aim to produce small batch<br />

wines that focus on showcasing the vibrant<br />

fruit and crisp flavours of Ontario wines.<br />

The wines I produce are approachable,<br />

quality and dependable products that are<br />

meant for everyone to enjoy. I produce<br />

a large range of styles and varietals, so<br />

any customer will find something they<br />

love when they visit, or pick up a bottle<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 39<br />

off the shelf. I enjoy playing around with<br />

different styles, and trying new ways of<br />

making wine, using new technologies, and<br />

incorporating old techniques together in<br />

the best way possible. Our newest venture<br />

with appassimento wines excites me and<br />

our customers are loving it!<br />

gk: What grape varietal do you find the most<br />

exciting and challenging, both for drinking<br />

and production?<br />

tm: Cabernet sauvignon. We can ripen these<br />

incredible grapes down our way in our warm<br />

and sunny long summers. I love the colour<br />

of the grapes and the hardy skins on them,<br />

they are a pleasure to ferment and make into<br />

wine. It’s often delicious on its own, but also<br />

a wonderful compliment to many wines in<br />

a blend, providing the backbone and tannic<br />

structure that so many other varieties lack.<br />

The challenge with this fruit is getting the<br />

plants through the cold winters.<br />

gk: What is your favourite part of the<br />

winemaking process?<br />

tm: Harvest! When the grapes arrive. The<br />

Our Wine, Your CREW<br />

The new CREW Winery & Gallery is officially open!<br />

The tasting bar is open year round, and a new galley<br />

lunch menu launches <strong>March</strong> 4. Taste local wines, see<br />

original art, and take in our vineyard views.<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON<br />

519-738-9800<br />

@crewinery


40 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

tm: Yes … run away and never<br />

return! Just kidding. Honestly,<br />

yes 15 years of advice would have<br />

been great. I’m still learning<br />

every day and I am 15 years into<br />

my practice. Thankfully I worked<br />

with many skilled winemakers<br />

in the early years to help develop<br />

my craft.<br />

smell of them pouring into the vats. The<br />

smell of a perfect white fermentation. The<br />

snap decisions required during such a chaotic<br />

time. Watching the incredible change a wine<br />

undergoes in only a few days and watching it<br />

develop slowly over years after that.<br />

gk: Is there any advice you wish you got<br />

before you started making wine?<br />

gk: Are there varietals that grow<br />

better in Lake Erie North Shore<br />

than other regions?<br />

tm: Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet<br />

franc and baco noir are incredible<br />

down here. We have the longest<br />

growing season and the highest<br />

heat units of anywhere in Ontario.<br />

gk: What advice do you have for a woman<br />

wanting to get involved in the wine<br />

business today?<br />

tm: If you want something, go for it. If you<br />

have a strong interest in science, math and<br />

most importantly a strong passion for wine<br />

— and you don’t mind physical work, some<br />

Visit Ontario’s Only Beachfront Winery!<br />

Open Daily<br />

Year Round<br />

11am-5pm<br />

www.sprucewoodshores.com<br />

519-738-9253<br />

Quality Craft Wines Available at the LCBO


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

long days and getting your hands (and feet!)<br />

wet — it’s the most rewarding career you<br />

could ever ask for.<br />

gk: Where are women going to be in this<br />

industry in the next 10 years?<br />

tm: Everywhere, like they already are, in<br />

every facet of the business.<br />

gk: Does being a woman have any bearing on<br />

winemaking?<br />

tm: Our senses can be different from men,<br />

which can reflect in the styles of wines<br />

we produce. Our physical strength and<br />

endurance play an important role in the<br />

production side.<br />

gk: How do you maintain a work/life/family<br />

balance?<br />

tm: The support of my family and staff have<br />

enabled me to continue to pursue this timeand<br />

mind-consuming career. It has been<br />

quite challenging at times, especially during<br />

harvest and bottling time. Challenging for<br />

both me and my husband, who I am very<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 41<br />

grateful to for all the extra work he puts<br />

into our family during my busy seasons.<br />

gk: Anything else you would like to add? Proud<br />

moments at the winery? Perhaps info on any<br />

upcoming projects that you can share?<br />

tm: I have been working on a project with<br />

my brother Steve for a few years now,<br />

getting into production of appassimento<br />

wines and it has been a very challenging,<br />

but extremely rewarding pursuit. We have<br />

a wine out right now that I am very proud<br />

of, and it is getting an incredible reception<br />

from our customers.<br />

Overall, I consider myself lucky to have<br />

been given the rewarding and challenging<br />

opportunity to run my own business with<br />

my family and I look forward to the many<br />

years ahead, especially when our young<br />

ones start to join in on the fun.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier<br />

who loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He<br />

shares his tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Lifting Spirits and Sales<br />

VQA Wines, Craft Beer and Cider<br />

Import Wines not available in LCBO<br />

Contact me if you’re thirsty<br />

to learn about unique<br />

farm to glass experiences<br />

for your home, business<br />

or special occasion.<br />

inspiirit.ca<br />

Tina Roberts<br />

troberts@inspiirit.ca


42 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

London<br />

London Training Centre is providing the Culinary<br />

Pre-Apprenticeship program again this year<br />

starting <strong>April</strong> 6. This six-month, full-time program<br />

includes four months of instruction and two<br />

months of paid placement at area restaurants and<br />

food establishments. Fully funded by the Ontario<br />

Ministry of Labour, Training and Skills Development<br />

(no cost to students) it is an ideal opportunity<br />

for 12 students seeking to launch their culinary<br />

careers. There is a competitive application process.<br />

lonndontraining.on.ca<br />

Chef Dave Lamers of Abruzzi and Taverna 1331 won<br />

Food Day Canada gold again in 2019. He will be<br />

heading to NYC with the other winners to represent<br />

Canada at James Beard House in May.<br />

Chef Logan Withers, formerly of Abruzzi Ristorante,<br />

is leading the culinary team at Dave Lamers and<br />

Rob D’Amico’s new Taverna 1331, at 1331 Hyde Park<br />

Road, taverna1331.ca<br />

Now that Blackfriars Bridge has reopened,<br />

it’s a perfect time to return to Betty Heydon’s<br />

acclaimed Blackfriars Bistro. Heydon and her<br />

team recently celebrated a 24th anniversary. One<br />

of the city’s most respected caterers, the culinary<br />

team at Blackfriars prepares innovative, seasonal<br />

blackboard specials with cutting-edge menus that<br />

respect tradition. Be sure to try Betty’s signature<br />

savoury Stilton cheesecake with heritage greens<br />

— it’s a classic. 46 Blackfriars St., 519-667-4930,<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

Katana Kafé & Grill is switching things up again<br />

for the season, with new menus launching <strong>March</strong><br />

12. They are continuing the popular “Half-price<br />

Bottle of Wine Wednesdays” and $5 16 oz pints of<br />

beer on Thursdays. There have been many aesthetic<br />

changes at Katana over the past year or so, with<br />

more changes coming soon. katanakafe.ca<br />

Updates from Grace Restaurant: Bartender Myles<br />

Davis qualified for the finals in the “Made with<br />

Love” cocktail competition which will be held in<br />

Toronto in <strong>April</strong>. Grace will hold a monthly drag<br />

brunch starting in <strong>March</strong>. Sunday Dinners in <strong>March</strong><br />

will include Maple Sugar Shack on <strong>March</strong> 1 and a<br />

collaboration with Nuts for Cheese on <strong>March</strong> 15.<br />

215 Dundas Street, 226-667-4822, gracelondon.ca<br />

The landmark Budapest Restaurant has been<br />

operating since 1956 and will celebrate its 64th (!)<br />

birthday on <strong>March</strong> 17. 348 Dundas Street, 519-439-<br />

3431, budapestrestaurant.com<br />

Paradigm Spirits Co. is being created by passionate<br />

craft spirit entrepreneurs with a vision to build a<br />

distillery within the new 100 Kellogg Lane. (100<br />

Kellogg Lane is the ongoing transformation of the<br />

former Kellogg’s cereal plant into a million-squarefoot<br />

hub for tenants, workspaces, entertainment and<br />

attractions, such as Powerhouse Brewing Company.)<br />

Paradigm will produce quality spirits showcasing<br />

the bounties of our region and people, by blending<br />

age-old tradition with new flavours and methods.<br />

Spirits authorities from whisky ambassadors to


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

bourbon stewards, they bring years of experience<br />

and certifications to the table. Lively and interactive<br />

cocktail classes are designed to inform participants<br />

about the art of crafting cocktails, the use of bar<br />

tools, and classic ingredients like bitters and tonic.<br />

Paradigm is expected to open in late May <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

paradigmspirits.com<br />

Locomotive Espresso recently celebrated its 6th<br />

anniversary. Co-owner Jill Wright tells us, “The<br />

second location in the Old South neighbourhood,<br />

Locomotive Espresso South is coming along.<br />

Follow at Locomotiveespresso on Instagram for<br />

updates on a soft opening in late <strong>April</strong>.” 519-601-<br />

3896, locomotiveespresso.com<br />

Wolfe Pack Company Bar is located next door<br />

to the popular breakfast spot Little Bird. In<br />

the middle of Wortley Village it is accessible,<br />

welcoming and convivial with inspired cuisine<br />

such as house-made charcuterie and seasonal or<br />

artisanal items in limited quantities, in order to<br />

maintain a high level of quality. The resto seats<br />

about 60 customers, and will include two patios,<br />

one seating an additional 45 patrons, and another<br />

30 seats at the front of the restaurant. The menu<br />

is reminiscent of the best of the former Wolfe of<br />

Wortley, but scaled-down and more accessibly<br />

priced. 145 Wortley Road, 226-663-4567<br />

Above the new Wolfe Pack Company Bar in Wortley<br />

Village is the boutique Bake Shop Studio. You<br />

can visit during retail hours, and by appointment<br />

on Tuesdays. Everything is made in-house from<br />

scratch. If you can’t come during retail hours, or<br />

have trouble with the stairs, the gluten-free and<br />

vegan cupcakes are offered across the street at<br />

the new Wortley Café (formerly Fire Roasted.) 145<br />

Wortley Road (Upper) bakeshopstudio.com<br />

Building on the momentum around urban<br />

experiential tourism, Growing Chefs! Ontario<br />

is excited to invite you into the HQ where a<br />

spectacular culinary adventure has been created:<br />

Food, Fire, Feast! This experience is based on<br />

the highly successful children’s education<br />

programming, where participants explore how food<br />

systems work through the largest school-based<br />

food education project in Ontario. Through this<br />

tremendously unique experience you will cook<br />

your way through an extensive “tour” of London<br />

and Middlesex County. Led by the award-winning<br />

Growing Chefs! Ontario Chef Team, you will improve<br />

your culinary skills using seasonal ingredients,<br />

wildcrafted foods, invasive species and native<br />

Ontario plants and be introduced to feature<br />

products from unique local farms and producers.<br />

The experience promises to keep a strong focus on<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Award Winning Artisan Cheese<br />

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101<br />

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience<br />

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured<br />

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures<br />

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste<br />

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch<br />

• Find details and register on our website<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

Boutique Bakery<br />

Buttercream Cakes,<br />

Cookies and<br />

French Macarons<br />

Open for Walk-in Purchases<br />

WED–FRI 11–6pm • SAT 10am–3pm<br />

closed sun/mon/tues<br />

145 Wortley Road, London<br />

Upstairs—above the new Wolfe Pack Company Bar<br />

bakeshopstudio.com


44 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

sustainable sourcing and zero-waste. It will launch<br />

in the spring of <strong>2020</strong>, growingchefsontario.ca<br />

Lavery Culinary Group’s Forest City Culinary<br />

Experiences’ team of culinary insiders brings<br />

together groups of visitors for intimate, immersive<br />

culinary and cultural experiences. Attend one of the<br />

culinary pop-ups, cooking classes, and dinners, or<br />

book an experience like the “Covent Garden Market<br />

Gastro Tour.” They also offer an interactive culinary<br />

and cultural tour centred on and around the Forks<br />

of the Thames with partners such as Museum<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />

THE VILLAGE<br />

MEAT SHOP<br />

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR<br />

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />

More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />

Over 200 Flavour Shot Flavours<br />

Loose Leaf Tea • Espresso • Lattes<br />

Cappuccino • Iced Coffee<br />

Baked Goods–even Keto sweets<br />

–and so much more!<br />

Ask<br />

about our<br />

Catering & Event<br />

Space!<br />

Homemade ice cream including dairy free, vegan and Keto!<br />

Dessert Waffles, Smoothies & other new items coming soon!<br />

Pour Over Coffee Bar Open 7 Days a Week<br />

creambeanerycafe.com<br />

London, Rhino Bakery & Lounge, and Eldon House.<br />

Or simply explore downtown London on one of two<br />

soon to be launched “Asian Culinary Experiences.”<br />

forestcityculinaryexperiences.ca<br />

Covent Garden Market, established in 1845, is<br />

the longest historical link to London’s culinary<br />

history. Several merchant families have served the<br />

market public for generations. Hasbeans follows<br />

a Smith family tradition that began in the 1880s.<br />

The coffee business is a hands-on enterprise with<br />

the hospitable Joel McMillian running the daily<br />

operations. Glenda and Danielle (Smith Cheese<br />

+ Glenda’s) offer over 250 varieties of cheese.<br />

Havaris Produce has been a market staple since<br />

1910. Covent Garden Market also houses take-away<br />

restos such as the New Delhi Deli, The Salad Bowl,<br />

Mercado Burrito and Thai Delight (the green,<br />

yellow and red curry combos are a market staple.)<br />

Mark Kitching’s Waldo’s On King is where you<br />

will find the best organic burger, sourced from the<br />

eponymous Mark’s Meats (his stand-alone shop<br />

in the Market that carries a wide range of certified<br />

organic and grass-fed meats, seafood and other<br />

items) and one of the very best Caesar salads in<br />

town. Chris Doris (Doris Produce) and restaurateur<br />

Greg Efstatheu operate Olive R Twists, and nestled<br />

into the Market Lane side of the building, Tanakaya<br />

Japanese Restaurant offers made-to-order sushi<br />

rolls, sashimi, teriyaki, tempura and bento boxes.<br />

The International Bakery, a prominent vendor for<br />

over 40 years, provides pastries, cakes, breads,<br />

and Italian-inspired staples. Petit Paris Crêperie<br />

& Pâtisserie is an excellent example of the French<br />

pastry tradition, and is located at the King Street<br />

entrance of the market. Petit Paris offers macarons,<br />

personalized cakes and pâtisseries, made from<br />

scratch and crafted with premium ingredients.<br />

Next door try the Coop Rotisserie for some of the<br />

best chicken in the city. We are also fans of Mona`s<br />

Shawarma & Grill and her Middle Eastern fare, and<br />

are especially partial to her falafels, shawarma<br />

New 2nd Location!<br />

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges<br />

226-490-0301<br />

825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />

519-652-1607<br />

PATIO<br />

OPEN!


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

and varieties of hummus. Sample one of Zoran<br />

Sehovac’s hand-made Balkan-inspired savoury<br />

bureks from the Hot Oven. These classic spiralled,<br />

savoury spinach and cheese or meat-stuffed<br />

pastries attract a loyal following. 130 King Street,<br />

coventmarket.com<br />

Dining at T.G. Haile’s Addis Ababa Restaurant<br />

is characterized by the ritual of breaking injera<br />

(the traditional yeast-risen flatbread which is<br />

spongy in texture, crêpe-like in appearance and<br />

has sourdough tanginess) and sharing food from a<br />

communal platter, signifying the bonds of loyalty<br />

and friendship. For more than 15 years T.G.’s Addis<br />

Ababa has offered a tour de force from the Ethiopian<br />

culinary repertoire with classic East African dishes.<br />

465 Dundas Street (at Maitland), 519-433-4222,<br />

tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Mainsay Visouvath and Fouzan (Rafael) Beg’s<br />

Thaifoon Restaurant continues to distinguish<br />

itself as the premier Thai restaurant in town with<br />

authentic and exuberant flavours, craft cocktails,<br />

ambience and stellar service. The recently<br />

renovated restaurant is a multi-sensory experience<br />

with a modern and elevated take on Thai culture.<br />

The dining room is sleek, fresh and modern. Recent<br />

visits have exceeded all of our expectations.<br />

thaifoonrestaurant.com<br />

Anna and Stelios Papadopoulos arrived in<br />

Mississauga from Greece in 2012, with son Kosta<br />

and daughter Marina, and later relocated to<br />

London. Anna says, “Wortley Village feels like<br />

a true village,” not unlike their home in Greece,<br />

where coffeehouses, restaurants and roasters are<br />

prevalent. By roasters, Anna means roasters of<br />

fresh nuts. Unimpressed by the roasted bulk nuts<br />

they sampled in Canada, Stelios envisioned bringing<br />

a bit of Greece to Wortley Village. They imported<br />

a unique Greek-designed nut-roasting machine<br />

from Germany. On Canada Day 2016, Karpos<br />

Dry Fruits and Nuts was launched in Wortley<br />

Village. On offer are several Greek food specialties<br />

and premium olive oil in bulk. Customers are<br />

encouraged to bring containers for nuts, fruits<br />

and olive oil. Fresh baklava and spanakopita are<br />

available for purchase. Entrées such as stuffed<br />

roasted peppers, dolmathakia, meatballs, chicken<br />

with potatoes, and avgolemono soup are available<br />

for takeaway on Tuesdays and Fridays. With the<br />

unexpected passing of Stelios last year, Anna,<br />

Kosta, and Marina continue to offer high-quality<br />

dry fruits and nuts procured globally. They remain<br />

the only Mediterranean-style roasters for fresh<br />

nuts in London. 190 Wortley Road, 519-672-5200,<br />

karposnutsandfruits.weebly.com<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

Blair Blvd<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

London<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

Oxford St<br />

• FAMILY FRIENDLY<br />

• Vegetarian &<br />

Vegan Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />

Closed Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

Blueberry Tea<br />

519-455-9005<br />

Crumlin Rd<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Blvd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre<br />

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3<br />

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9<br />

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9


where art is<br />

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1305 Riverbend Road, Suite 110<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

Traditional, Real Food.<br />

Real Good!<br />

Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls,<br />

Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or<br />

many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes.<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

519-652-9696<br />

aranka.ca<br />

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7447 Longwoods Road, London<br />

Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of<br />

Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Pepe’s Filipino Restaurant, named after the<br />

owner’s father, is located in the premises formerly<br />

occupied by the Chinese BBQ Restaurant. Dishes<br />

range from lumpia (fried spring rolls with pork,<br />

shrimp and vegetables) to arrozcaldo, (a hearty<br />

Filipino congee made with chicken and rice,<br />

seasoned with onion, and garlic and served with a<br />

boiled egg) to the more complex dinuguan (pork<br />

blood stew with liver pork meat and intestine). We<br />

enjoyed the Filipino-style pork bbq served with rice<br />

or sweet potato fries and the Filipino-style chop<br />

suey with vegetables sautéed in garlic oyster sauce<br />

with miniscule shrimp and quail eggs. The calamari<br />

is lightly breaded and fried and served with<br />

sriracha aioli. 994 Huron Street, 519-601-0375<br />

Congee Chan offers a large menu of Cantonese<br />

specialties prepared with fresh high-quality<br />

ingredients. A favourite is preserved egg congee with<br />

minced duck. This is traditional Chinese cooking<br />

combined with Canadian-Chinese versions of modern<br />

Asian specialties like crispy-sweet and piquant<br />

General Tao chicken. Congee Chan offers more than<br />

just congee and noodles. Order the lobster with<br />

ginger and green onion chow mein, and the clams or<br />

beef with black bean sauce. 735 Wonderland Road<br />

North (in the plaza across from Angelo’s), 519-641-<br />

5686, congeechanrestaurant.com<br />

Five Fortune Culture House is known for its<br />

Yunnan-style home cooking with Sichuan and<br />

Guizhou influences — not a formulaic Chinese<br />

restaurant serving Anglo-genres conceived by oldstyle<br />

Taishanese and rural Cantonese immigrants<br />

who adapted traditional Chinese recipes to<br />

suit local tastes and available ingredients. 368<br />

Richmond Street, 226-667-9873<br />

The Market at Western Fair District is a vibrant hub<br />

in Old East Village bringing together community,<br />

food artisans and startups. Two floors and over 100<br />

vendors make up The Market which operates on<br />

Saturday and Sundays and features fine retailers<br />

such as The Village Meat Shoppe, Loco Fields,<br />

Common Ground, Evi’s Deli, The Butcher’s Wife, On<br />

the Move Organics, Monforte Cheese, Petojo Food &<br />

Catering (Indonesian cuisine), Yam Gurung’s Momos<br />

at the Market (featuring Nepalese Cuisine), Harvest<br />

Pantry (ferments, preserves, salts and culinary<br />

tools), Artisan Bakery, Lebanese Bakery and Downie<br />

Street Bakehouse. Food truck operators Bifana Boys<br />

and Goodah Gastrotruck have popular booths at The<br />

Market and recently opened Out of the Deep Seafood<br />

Co., featuring ethically-sourced and sustainable<br />

offerings. themarketwfd.com<br />

Willie’s Café continues to grow and thrive in the<br />

London Food Incubator. Ian Kennard has expanded


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

the seating with more tables, comfy chairs and<br />

a new cozy dining area. There is inexpensive<br />

municipal parking off of Queens Ave. and customers<br />

are welcome to use the entrance accessible from the<br />

parking lot. Willie’s continues to provide catering<br />

services with a focus on office/corporate lunches.<br />

630 Dundas Street East, williescafeandcatering.com<br />

Tina Roberts of Inspiirit is excited about her<br />

partnership with The Wine Agents, importers of<br />

great wines you won’t find at the LCBO, to help<br />

restaurants drive growth by having exclusive VQA<br />

and imported offerings positions. “Pinot Grigio is<br />

not a commonly grown wine in the Niagara Region,<br />

so having a couple in my portfolio is a real coup,”<br />

says Tina. “It’s such a popular wine and one that<br />

customers always ask for. My favourite so far is<br />

from Cantine Monfort in Trentino Italy, and it’s<br />

their Terre Del Fohn Pinot Grigio. This a very easy<br />

drinking wine. Almost too easy!” Inspiirit’s products<br />

are available to licensee, wedding and event venues<br />

and direct to consumers. Check out their Wine Club<br />

to. Contact Tina at troberts@inspiirit.ca.<br />

The goal of the Culinary Federation of Chefs &<br />

Cooks is to unite chefs and cooks across Canada in<br />

a shared dedication to professional excellence. The<br />

Federation was founded in 1963 and incorporated<br />

in Ottawa as a non-profit association in 1972. It has<br />

1,200 members nationally. Throughout its history<br />

as Canada’s most significant federally chartered<br />

professional chefs’ organization, the name of<br />

the Federation has undergone several changes<br />

to recognize the chef’s continually changing<br />

role in the kitchen and education. Membership<br />

in the Culinary Federation is available to all<br />

persons with career paths as a Cook Apprentice,<br />

Journeyman Cook, Professional Chef/Cook or<br />

Culinary Professional. Join colleagues from<br />

London and the surrounding area for the relaunch<br />

of the London branch of the Culinary Federation.<br />

This isn’t the same organization that you may<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 47<br />

remember or perhaps have been involved with<br />

in the past. Contact Chef David Franklin, VP of<br />

Central Region, for more information about CF<br />

London. chefdavidfranklin@gmail.com, 226-7065,<br />

culinaryfederation.ca<br />

Stratford<br />

Chef Kris Schlotzhauer and Pastry Chef Suzy<br />

Schlotzhauer’s restaurant AO Pasta is relocating to a<br />

bigger and better space this spring (formerly Renee’s<br />

Bistro) and they are excited about this next chapter.<br />

With the move, they will be welcoming Tom Van<br />

Van Simpson - Scotia Wealth Management presents<br />

<strong>April</strong> 25, <strong>2020</strong><br />

at Museum London<br />

$55 advance / $65 at the door<br />

UPwithART.ca<br />

Grand Bend’s Annual Art, Culinary & Music Tour<br />

MAY 1,2 & 3<br />

OVER<br />

24<br />

LOCATIONS<br />

GRANDBENDSTUDIOTOUR.COM


48 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Oosterhout as a partner. AO Pasta will remain closed<br />

until the projected early <strong>April</strong> reopening. aopasta.com<br />

Sobrii 0-Gin is new to Stratford and is Canada’s<br />

first non-alcoholic gin. Sobrii is distilled in<br />

Stratford in small batches at Junction 56<br />

Distillery with zero sugar, zero calories and no<br />

artificial flavours or sweeteners. Sobrii can simply<br />

be substituted for gin in most cocktail recipes or<br />

can be used to create a custom drink. Purchase<br />

at Bradshaws & Kitchen Detail or Junction 56. 45<br />

Cambria Street, Stratford. sobrii.ca<br />

See Facebook for Weekly Specials!<br />

Lunch Hours Available for Private Events<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

Authentic Italian Cuisine<br />

Local Craft Beers<br />

Regional & Organic Wines from Italy<br />

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available<br />

Tuesday–Thursday 4pm–8pm<br />

Friday & Saturday 11:30am–10pm<br />

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm, Dinner 3pm–7pm<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester<br />

519-268-0001<br />

fatolive.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Jobsite Brewing Co. began with a conversation<br />

between Dave Oldenburger and Phil Buhler during<br />

a break at a construction site. Their passion for<br />

construction has turned into a new love for making<br />

in-house local brews. Stop by for a visit and enjoy<br />

a pint, flight or a made-to-order wood-fired<br />

pizza. 45 Cambria Street, Stratford, 519-305-3335.<br />

jobsitebrewing.ca<br />

Braai House menus offer a South African-inspired<br />

cuisine, focusing on open-fire cooking. The menu<br />

is created by Executive Chef/co-owner, Anthony<br />

Jordaan, who has been able to highlight some of the<br />

fantastic flavours that come off of a South-African<br />

braai, more commonly known as a wood-fired BBQ/<br />

grill. Did we mention that they also microbrew their<br />

own beer onsite? 34 Brunswick Street, Stratford,<br />

519-271-5647. braaihouse.ca<br />

Red Lion Room is a cozy, hip lounge in downtown<br />

Stratford. It offers an extensive menu by Head<br />

Chef Blake Anderson that includes snacks, shared<br />

plates, pasta and grilled meats. All kinds of pasta,<br />

sauces and breads are made in-house. Local<br />

beers are featured on tap along with hand-crafted<br />

cocktails. Enjoy live music with your dinner,<br />

ranging from jazz to classic rock. 23 Albert Street,<br />

Stratford, 519-272-1776. redlionroom.ca<br />

Stratford Farmers Market, hosted by The Stratford<br />

& District Agricultural Society, is one of the oldest<br />

markets in Ontario. Vendors bring the finest cuts<br />

of meat, vegetables, fruits, baked goods, coffee,<br />

craft items and much more. Don’t worry about<br />

having breakfast before you arrive, and the<br />

made-to-order BBQ has you covered for lunch with<br />

sausage or back bacon on a bun. The Market will be<br />

running until December 19, from 7:00 am – 12:00<br />

pm. 375 McCarthy Road, Stratford, 519-271-5130.<br />

stratfordagriculturalsociety.com<br />

Stratford Chefs School Open Kitchen features<br />

Cooking with Cannabis! With Canada’s legalization<br />

Picture Yourself:<br />

• Relaxing on our patio ...<br />

• Enjoying lunch, dinner or a snack ...<br />

• Staying the evening in a room or suite!<br />

Main Street, Port Stanley<br />

(519) 782-3388<br />

www.kettlecreekinn.com<br />

information@kettlecreekinn.com


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

of cannabis, more and more people are interested<br />

in safely exploring its medicinal properties and<br />

recreational uses. At the SCS Open Kitchen class,<br />

you will learn how to include the correct cannabis<br />

oil breakdown, decarboxylation, the benefits of<br />

infused butter versus oil, purification techniques,<br />

how to store your infusion, and how to make<br />

cannabis calculations when cooking. Perfect for<br />

anyone curious about cooking with cannabis at<br />

home. 136 Ontario Street, Stratford, 519-271-1414.<br />

stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen<br />

A recent expansion has added 20,000 sq ft of<br />

greenhouses, giving organic grower Loco Fields a<br />

total of 60,000 sq ft now, just outside Stratford. As a<br />

supplier to many of the best local restaurants, they<br />

grow a variety of mixed vegetables, specializing<br />

in leafy greens, salad mixes, ginger, turmeric,<br />

over 100 varieties of heirloom tomatoes, peppers,<br />

specialty potatoes and other roots. Catch them<br />

at the Market at Western Fair and Stratford’s<br />

summer Slow Food Market on Sunday, at specialty<br />

food shops, and online. Cut micros and cut greens<br />

are now available and sunchokes will be coming<br />

out of the ground in <strong>April</strong>. Late summer, a major<br />

expansion into local ginger and turmeric will be<br />

harvested. info@locofields.com<br />

Around the Region<br />

We lost a dedicated farm-to-table advocate and<br />

mentor when celebrated chef Michael Potters<br />

passed away suddenly. A former Londoner, Potters<br />

was a graduate of Sir Wilfred Laurier University<br />

and studied Culinary Arts at George Brown<br />

College. Leading the charge for positive change in<br />

the restaurant industry, Potters was well-known<br />

in Ontario’s culinary circles for his decadeslong<br />

career and influence as a chef, hospitality<br />

consultant, educator and mentor. Potters’ career<br />

spanned The Little Inn in Bayfield, co-owner of<br />

Harvest in Picton, Accolade at Toronto’s Crown<br />

Plaza, Spoke Club, Hockley Valley Resort,<br />

Angeline’s Inn in Prince Edward County and Milford<br />

Bistro. Most recently he was the Executive Director<br />

of CAPE Private Events in Picton.<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co. is rolling into spring with<br />

several exciting new beer releases. Back by<br />

popular demand is Cowbell Brewing’s Renegade<br />

Series. Five new, limited-edition, small-batch<br />

Renegades, featuring bold and exciting flavours,<br />

will be available on draught and in 473mL cans.<br />

The first Renegade Series beer will be launching<br />

exclusively at the Cowbell Farm and online in <strong>April</strong>.<br />

For Cowbell fans who cannot wait until <strong>April</strong> to<br />

try new brews, Hazy Days, a Hazy Juicy IPA will be<br />

Bring back “homemade”<br />

again with Marshall’s Pasta!<br />

Reunions<br />

Anniversary<br />

Parties<br />

Quality<br />

Convenient<br />

Meals<br />

Healthy Food the Whole<br />

Family Will Love!<br />

We Cater!<br />

Family<br />

Functions<br />

& More!<br />

Birthday<br />

Parties<br />

Graduations<br />

Baptisms<br />

580 Adelaide St N, London 519-672-7827<br />

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm<br />

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca


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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

hitting LCBO and grocery shelves in <strong>March</strong>. Keep<br />

an eye on Cowbell’s social channels for updates<br />

on all upcoming beer releases. 40035 Blyth Road,<br />

cowbellbrewing.com<br />

The Village Teapot in Ilderton is owned and<br />

run by Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. Gaynor<br />

is originally from the UK, Jana from Chatham,<br />

Ontario. They are tea drinkers, soup and sandwich<br />

makers, and know a good scone when they see one.<br />

Located in one of the oldest properties in the town,<br />

believed to be at least 145 years old, in premises<br />

that retain many period features. Reservations are<br />

appreciated. thevillageteapot.ca<br />

Elio and Kate Caporicci’s Early Bird Coffee is a<br />

small-batch, wholesale coffee roaster and café<br />

situated close to where the 401 and 403 meet in<br />

Woodstock. Their mission is simple, “To provide<br />

Oxford County with a world-class coffee experience<br />

by delivering the freshest, best tasting, small-batch<br />

coffee in the region.” They achieve this by using<br />

only expertly-roasted, ethically-sourced, premium<br />

beans. Since its inception, Early Bird Coffee has<br />

found its way into the homes of many area families,<br />

as well as onto the shelves of local businesses, such<br />

as Habitual Chocolate and Beantown Coffee Co.<br />

815 Juliana Drive, Woodstock, 519-532-3127<br />

Chef Eric Boyar’s sixthirtynine in Woodstock<br />

delivers a homegrown Oxford County “from<br />

scratch” farm-to-table Feast On certified<br />

experience. An elegant and contemporary dining<br />

room of 30 seats welcomes guests to a tasteful<br />

and comfortable atmosphere. Front house service<br />

is headed by Eric’s wife, Jennifer Boyar, where<br />

the emphasis is on unpretentious yet attentive<br />

and professional service. Zach Lebert directs<br />

the restaurant wine program, which features<br />

both high quality regional VQA wines and unique<br />

international wines. Wine selections change<br />

regularly to suit the current menu. Additional<br />

seating is available for up to four guests at the<br />

Chef’s Table, which provides guests an up-close<br />

look at the talented kitchen crew in action. Service<br />

is often headed by Sous Chef Sam Vandenberg, who<br />

ensures guests at the Chef’s Table have an engaging<br />

and memorable experience. Tasting menus with<br />

optional wine pairings are available upon request.<br />

639 Peel Street, Woodstock, 519-536-9602,<br />

sixthirtynine.com<br />

Chocolatier and owner of Seed Confections,<br />

Genevieve Scarfone’s love of all things pastry<br />

began in her teens. She enrolled in the Culinary<br />

Management program at Niagara College. Later<br />

Scarfone worked three summers at a luxury<br />

golf course resort in Muskoka and spent winter


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

seasons in Banff as a baker. In 2009 she moved<br />

to Vancouver, where she began her career as a<br />

chocolatier learning the nuances of chocolate<br />

production. While she was working as a sous chef<br />

at Beta5 Chocolates in Vancouver, the team won<br />

multiple Canadian and International Chocolate<br />

Awards. In 2015, she moved home to St. Thomas.<br />

Before starting Seed Confections she spent months<br />

travelling the world solo, visiting Indonesia,<br />

Australia, and New Zealand. It was on this trip she<br />

created the concept of Seed Confections, which is<br />

known for its signature macarons. All the desserts<br />

are fresh, local and delectable. Scarfone has won<br />

both silver and bronze awards in the Canadian<br />

portion of the International Chocolate Awards. In<br />

2018 she won a bronze medal at the International<br />

Chocolate Awards in Italy for her Cranberry Sage<br />

bonbons.159 Ross Street, St. Thomas, Ontario, 519-<br />

207-4060, seedconfections.com<br />

Steelhead Food Co. offers fresh locally processed<br />

fish that are cleaned and cut at the Fish and Seafood<br />

Market. Based in St. Thomas, Steelhead offers a<br />

selection of premium quality fish, fresh oysters and<br />

seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked. 5 Barrie Blvd,<br />

St. Thomas, 226-237-3474, steelheadfoodco.ca<br />

The Southwest Ontario Tourism Corporation<br />

(SWOTC) recently announced the finalists for the<br />

2019 Innovation Awards. Innovator of the Year<br />

finalists includes the Lavery Culinary Group’s<br />

Forest City Culinary Experiences, Lambton<br />

Heritage Museum, and Texas Long Horn Ranch.<br />

Innovator of the Year award recognizes businesses,<br />

organizations and leaders that are building the<br />

tourism industry within Ontario’s Southwest with<br />

purpose and passion. Innovative Experience of the<br />

Year finalists includes Culture City X, hosted by<br />

London Arts Council, Sweetest Smell on Earth –<br />

Maple Dining Experience, hosted by Richardson’s<br />

Farm, and Truffle Camp, hosted by Cindy Walker’s<br />

Chocolatea. The Innovative Experience of the Year<br />

award recognizes meaningful experiences, events,<br />

and programming offered to travellers, that tell the<br />

stories of Ontario’s Southwest.<br />

The former schoolhouse which houses The 1909<br />

Culinary Academy was built in that year. Located<br />

just west of Ayr, the building has been converted<br />

into a chef-owned private culinary institute with a<br />

restaurant-style kitchen. Executive Chef Murray<br />

Zehr offers a lesson in community heritage<br />

stewardship. Original details include slanted<br />

blackboards, decorative tin ceiling, lighting<br />

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chef training facility with a focus on agriculture<br />

and hands-on techniques for food cultivation. The<br />

dinner plate is ever changing. An invitation has<br />

been extended by the 1909 Culinary Academy for<br />

a complimentary 3-hour session with Chef Murray<br />

Zehr, designed specifically for chefs, cooks and<br />

restaurant managers. Tourism Oxford and SWOTC<br />

are excited to partner with the Academy to offer<br />

this free workshop for restaurants on Monday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 9, 1–4 pm. 5183 Trussler Road, Ayr, Ontario,<br />

the1909culinaryacademy.ca<br />

Chatham-Kent Tourism, in partnership with<br />

Grey County Tourism, is hosting the third annual<br />

Rural Tourism Symposium. This one-day event is<br />

designed to raise the profile of rural tourism as an<br />

integral part of the provincial and national visitor<br />

experience. It targets those in the rural tourism<br />

industry, and seeks to inspire tourism industry<br />

professionals to redefine success by leveraging<br />

up, capitalizing on opportunities and partnering<br />

for success. Join Chatham-Kent Tourism as they<br />

host rural tourism stakeholders, destination<br />

marketing organizations and tourism businesses in<br />

partnership with Grey County Tourism. Celes Davar<br />

of Earth Rythms is the keynote speaker. Thursday,<br />

<strong>April</strong> 23, 8:30 a.m. –3:30 p.m., Ridgetown College,<br />

120 Main St E, Ridgetown, chatham-kent.ca/<br />

Tourism/rural-tourism-symposium<br />

The new Huron Waves Music Festival will formally<br />

announce its inaugural Spring lineup at The White<br />

Squirrel Golf Club and Restaurant (a Festival<br />

sponsor) at 5pm on Tuesday, <strong>March</strong> 10. Artistic<br />

Director is John Miller, who founded and ran for<br />

18 years the renowned Stratford Summer Music<br />

Festival, will bring programming that includes<br />

four incredible women, each with a unique musical<br />

perspective. Karen Gibson, founder of Britain’s<br />

Kingdom Choir that’s famous for her “Stand By<br />

Me” rendition at the royal wedding of Meagan<br />

Markle and Prince Harry, brings her Choir for<br />

performances in Goderich and Exeter and leads an<br />

open, choral workshop for regional singers and<br />

conductors. Barbara Croall, an Odawa First Nations<br />

composer and educator rooted in Anishinaabeg<br />

traditions, will be Huron Waves’ artist-in-residence<br />

with aboriginal youth at the Kettle and Stony Point<br />

Hillside School. Anne Bourne, an Ontario specialist<br />

in blending Nature’s vibrations with the sounds of<br />

human voices and musical instruments, will lead<br />

Deep Listening experiences with walkers along the<br />

shores of Lake Huron. And Leigh Ann Ryan, a St.<br />

John’s educator and signing specialist, will bring<br />

the Newfoundland Deaf Choir to the music festival<br />

to inspire audible-capable audiences with how the<br />

partially and totally deaf create their music with


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

American Sign Language. Huron Waves Music<br />

Festival will present concerts in Bayfield, Blyth,<br />

Exeter, Goderich, Grand Bend, Hensall, Zurich and<br />

points in between, May 7 to 17. Information and<br />

tickets: huronwavesmusicfestival.ca<br />

With an eclectic ambience and a contemporary<br />

take on classic culinary favourites combined<br />

with unparalleled service, the Chilled Cork offers<br />

a culinary experience that inspires locals and<br />

travellers alike. The restaurant is nestled within the<br />

Retro Suites Hotel’s century-old building located<br />

on Chatham’s “retro block.” Guests are captivated<br />

by the welcoming atmosphere and the exposed<br />

brick walls, iconic pop-culture pieces, original<br />

modern art and stunning neon. 22 William Street<br />

South, 519-354-7818, chilledcork.ca<br />

St. Marys Farmers’ Market is running a pilot for an<br />

indoor St. Marys Winter Farmers’ Market this year,<br />

funded by the Libro Prosperity Fund. The winter<br />

market is open the first Saturday of the month<br />

from 8 until noon at the St. Marys Legion. Vendors<br />

include Edible Acres, Sheldon Berries, Forest Hill<br />

Orchards, Ann Slater, Bradley’s Lamb, Taylor<br />

Heritage Hogs, Slater’s Organic Meats, FAM Hot<br />

Sauces, Black Sombrero, Syrian Bakers, Bespoke<br />

Confections, Martha and Rachel, Breadtopia,<br />

Pillitteri Estates Winery and Busy Momma.<br />

stmarysfarmersmarket.ca/winter-market<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss<br />

mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master<br />

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized<br />

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s herd<br />

of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the cheese<br />

ripens as naturally as possible while the flavours<br />

improve with maturation. Cheeses and other local<br />

products are available to buy on-site at the farm<br />

store. 5021 Perth County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St.<br />

Marys, 519-229-6856, stonetowncheese.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue:<strong>April</strong> 5<br />

“Where everyone knows your game”<br />

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54 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Theatre<br />

A Captain Hook for Our Time<br />

Laura Condlln in Wendy & Peter Pan at the Avon Theatre<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

Batten down the hatches theatregoers;<br />

it is time for a gender switch<br />

in a classic tale. Meet the <strong>2020</strong><br />

version of Captain Hook: Laura<br />

Condlln. She’s ready to rock the boat with a<br />

female swagger at the Stratford Festival this<br />

season. “The world needs more female pirate<br />

stories,” says Condlln. “It’s important to have<br />

this complex, powerful man portrayed as a<br />

woman by a woman,” she adds.<br />

Wendy & Peter Pan is a new adaptation, by<br />

Ella Hickson, of the J.M. Barrie book, Peter<br />

Pan. It opens on May 27 at the Avon Theatre<br />

with previews beginning on <strong>April</strong> 24.<br />

In this adaptation Hickson puts an<br />

emphasis on the women in Peter Pan:<br />

Wendy, Tink and Tiger Lily. “It’s a female<br />

kaleidoscope,” says Condlln. She will play<br />

the Captain as a woman, with the pronouns<br />

changed and any references to Hook as a<br />

male removed. “The essence of the Captain<br />

is female,” says Condlln. “However I am not<br />

called she or her. I am only called Captain.”<br />

Her costume includes “killer boots” with heels,<br />

and she wears pants. “It is sexy, masculine and<br />

Laura Condlln. Creative direction by Punch & Judy Inc.<br />

Photography by David Cooper..<br />

feminine at the same time. I am not saying I<br />

am androgynous, but it is interesting. We are<br />

not in gender fluidity but there is a strong<br />

person there that is being played as a woman.”<br />

Directed by Keira Loughran, the story has<br />

other female plot lines such as Wendy and<br />

Mrs. Darling fighting for women’s rights, and<br />

the Lost Boys looking for a mother, whom<br />

they find in Wendy. “Playwright Ella Hickson<br />

adapted Barrie’s story with a subversive<br />

spirit; she believed Neverland belonged to<br />

Wendy as much as it did to Peter, and she<br />

actively cracked stereotypes that have been<br />

propagated through previous adaptations in<br />

ways that were both hilarious and surprisingly<br />

moving. I wanted to maintain that spirit<br />

in our production and Laura embodied it<br />

perfectly in her Hook. It won her the role; the<br />

trio of Laura as Hook, Cynthia Jimenez Hicks<br />

as Wendy, and Jake Runeckles as Peter, really<br />

anchor the <strong>2020</strong> Canadian première of this<br />

classic story,” says Loughran.<br />

Condlln lives full-time in Stratford and she<br />

tapped a fellow Stratford actor, Jan Alexandra<br />

Smith (who portrayed Scrooge as a woman<br />

at the Grand Theatre,<br />

London in 2018) for some<br />

gender-switching advice.<br />

“I saw Jan as Scrooge and<br />

I have thought about that<br />

role a lot. Scrooge was a<br />

woman but she was very<br />

masculine. This challenge<br />

is totally thrilling and<br />

terrifying in equal measure<br />

for me,” says Condlln.<br />

Her Captain Hook will<br />

“push me way outside<br />

of my comfort zone,”<br />

says Condlln. “What<br />

are we as artists if we<br />

are not treading into<br />

the unknown? And I<br />

am so grateful for the


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

opportunity to do that,” she adds.<br />

At Stratford, Hook will be hungry for<br />

possession of power. She will also be obsessed<br />

with Peter Pan — his youthfulness and<br />

energy. And she will be melancholy about her<br />

own aging. Condlln says she will draw on her<br />

own emotions and parallels about being a<br />

middle-aged woman in this reflective role.<br />

“When we hit middle age we are in our<br />

prime, for sure. Should we be so lucky and<br />

there is time left, we start looking behind<br />

us too. There is a beautiful section in this<br />

adaptation where Hook reveals a deep yearning<br />

for more time. I’m interested in discovering<br />

what that means particularly for a woman.”<br />

Watch for Condlln’s interplay with the<br />

ticking crocodile, and her regard for Wendy’s<br />

ambition, and dependence on Tink and Tiger<br />

Lily. This will be a not-to-miss female pirate<br />

story in a very special Neverland, reminding<br />

the audience that the complex desire for<br />

power is not tied to gender.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 57<br />

Books<br />

Be My Guest<br />

Reflections on Food, Community and the Meaning of Generosity<br />

By Priya Basil<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Be my Guest: Reflections on Food,<br />

Community and the Meaning of<br />

Generosity (Canongate Books,<br />

2019) by Priya Basil is an eloquent<br />

book crafted with the same precision as the<br />

eye-catching porcelain plate on the front<br />

cover — gold and cobalt hues on a platter are<br />

fashioned into garlic, wooden spoons, foliage,<br />

forks, beans, serving pots, pasta bowls, and<br />

human hands. The swirling design mesmerizes<br />

and draws you into the book, where the<br />

captivation with the visual is replaced by<br />

an enthralling cascade of words about food,<br />

religion, culture, love, politics, family, and<br />

cooking — all set at a global dinner table that<br />

is clearly Basil’s comfortable place to bring<br />

thought-provoking ideas.<br />

Basil is a true global citizen with a melange<br />

of cultures influencing her tastes as a food<br />

lover, author, and activist. She was born in<br />

England to Indian parents who moved to<br />

Kenya to raise her. Living in Berlin as an adult<br />

after marrying a German, she now dabbles in<br />

the Sikhism of her ancestors as it relates to<br />

treating all humans equally and altruistically<br />

serving the community. But<br />

her deepest cravings always<br />

come back to her mother’s<br />

cooking, her most favourite<br />

dish in the world, the essence<br />

of her mother, the taste of her<br />

home: the creamy curry dish,<br />

kadhi. She writes, “Each bite<br />

holds the flavour of the past<br />

and the present, a lifetime<br />

of my mother’s love, her<br />

unstinting hospitality.”<br />

Kadhi and many other<br />

traditional Indian dishes are the<br />

taste of home for Basil, which<br />

has unfolded from her maternal<br />

grandmother’s kitchen. Her<br />

Author Priya Basil<br />

grandmother’s<br />

unconditional<br />

desire to cook<br />

for others is<br />

legendary in<br />

the family.<br />

“She wields<br />

ingredients<br />

like weapons<br />

and has<br />

made food<br />

the front line in a<br />

fight for first place in the affections of<br />

family.” This often meant not letting others<br />

in on the secrets of her recipes. Even though<br />

being asked for a personal recipe is the ultimate<br />

compliment, her grandmother hoarded them<br />

in her brain and Basil tells us “if she was ever<br />

cornered into explaining how to make a dish,<br />

she deliberately left out key ingredients or<br />

crucial steps.” She never owned a cookbook and<br />

never wrote down any of her recipes.<br />

Whether or not a recipe comes from family<br />

secrets or a cookbook, Basil writes, “The food<br />

that is cooked for you is imbued with an<br />

ingredient no recipe can list,<br />

no culinary sleight of hand<br />

can substitute: hospitality.”<br />

In her book, she delves<br />

deeper into how hospitality<br />

has many dimensions and is<br />

not just about inviting guests<br />

for dinner — although it<br />

is that in spades for Basil,<br />

who would undoubtedly<br />

be an outstanding hostess.<br />

Hospitality is also about<br />

accepting refugees fleeing<br />

from war-ravaged countries<br />

by giving food, shelter, and<br />

safety in the welcoming<br />

arms of another culture or


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

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religion. Being a guest in the world means<br />

having to be a continual host, to address<br />

the needs of other humans by donating to<br />

religious charities, volunteering time for<br />

humanitarian services, feeding the hungry,<br />

and eliminating as much food waste as we can.<br />

We are all guests and hosts at differing<br />

times in our lives. We all must be participants<br />

in the give and take of life in varying<br />

circumstances. Basil writes, “The way we<br />

cook for and eat with others is one of the<br />

more tangible, quotidian ways of measuring<br />

generosity.” Food gives us the chance to fall<br />

into the social arrangements of inviting guests<br />

to our homes for dinners that represent our<br />

familial or cultural heritage, or the more<br />

public display of fighting over a bill at the end<br />

of a restaurant meal, but all we’re really trying<br />

to do is make ourselves feel at home wherever<br />

we have settled.<br />

115 King St., London Ontario<br />

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham<br />

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants in London.<br />

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 59<br />

Recipes<br />

Taste the Wild<br />

Recipes and Stories from Canada<br />

By Lisa Nieschlag and Lars Wentrup<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Lisa Nieschlag and Lars Wentrup are<br />

the co-owners of a multi-awardwinning<br />

communication and design<br />

agency in Münster, Germany. He also<br />

illustrates, designs and paints very cool retro<br />

travel posters. She writes cookbooks, blogs<br />

about food, and creates beautiful culinary<br />

photography.<br />

Sascha is a personal trainer based in<br />

Münster. He also happens to be an avid<br />

photographer who posts much of his art on<br />

Instagram. He and his wife Ninja traveled<br />

to Canada, documenting the natural beauty<br />

along the way. The photos and stories they collected<br />

were the inspiration for Taste the Wild:<br />

Recipes and Stories from Canada (Lisa Nieschlag<br />

and Lars Wentrup; Murdoch Books; 2019).<br />

I enjoy reading cookbooks about Canada,<br />

especially when they try to expand the<br />

perception of Canadian food. I’ve been known<br />

to complain about books that make it look as<br />

if we spend our days eating blueberries and<br />

salmon drenched in maple syrup, as if these<br />

were the only foods our country has to offer.<br />

My first instinct upon picking up Taste the<br />

Wild was to dismiss it as one of these.<br />

Actually, my first thought was that the<br />

Lisa Nieschlag<br />

Lars Wentrup<br />

pictures were<br />

gorgeous and<br />

that the photographer<br />

is a genius.<br />

Upon<br />

further<br />

reading, I<br />

found that<br />

the food<br />

shots<br />

and the<br />

ambiance<br />

photos<br />

were done by different<br />

people. Okay, two geniuses. Still, the overdose<br />

of maple leaves. And a Caesar with tomato<br />

juice instead of Clamato? Isn’t there a law<br />

against that?<br />

When I stopped being huffy long enough<br />

to go back to Taste the Wild, it was these<br />

imperfections that allowed me to see the<br />

book in a different light. Maybe it’s good to<br />

see ourselves through a stranger’s eyes once<br />

in a while. The authors weren’t treating our<br />

food and customs as quaint habits of “the<br />

Canucks,” I was. They were embracing them,<br />

reveling in the simplicity of a few<br />

ingredients, blended well, in a relaxed<br />

and casual way to make great tasting<br />

food. That could only be more Canadian<br />

if the food apologized for something.<br />

I can argue against stereotypes all I<br />

like but we really do have great salmon<br />

here. And it does taste fantastic when<br />

grilled on a cedar plank. And this<br />

picture of it is stunning and makes me<br />

wish it was summer, and I was sitting<br />

at a campfire by a Canadian river eating<br />

this dish with some potato salad and a<br />

piece of fresh, crusty bread. And, yes,


60 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

there are recipes for both of those too.<br />

At a count of 50 recipes, Taste the Wild is<br />

a light cookbook. It feels more like the most<br />

beautiful travel scrapbook I’ve ever seen.<br />

Inspirational quotes and descriptions of<br />

Canadian adventures that read like a brochure<br />

for a camping resort. Many of the recipes<br />

are what you’d expect to find. Hearty, rustic<br />

fare, comfort food to eat while curled up by a<br />

fire. That said, I found a recipe for Wild Rice<br />

Frittata with Mushrooms and Bacon that<br />

looks light and delicate yet is filling enough<br />

for a mid-day meal. Prepare the wild rice<br />

ahead of time and this could easily become a<br />

Sunday brunch staple.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

If you prefer something sweeter with<br />

brunch, try the Waffles with Salted Butterscotch<br />

Sauce. Whisking and adding the egg<br />

whites separately makes these ridiculously<br />

fluffy on the inside. The sauce is gorgeous<br />

enough to convert a die-hard maple syrup fan.<br />

I haven’t found anything it doesn’t taste great<br />

on, and I’ve poured butterscotch sauce on half<br />

the food in my fridge. You know, for science.<br />

Taste the Wild offers a fantasy about<br />

running away to summer in the backwoods<br />

of Canada. It may not be the most accurate<br />

portrayal of our country, but it is a lot of fun.<br />

Seriously, though, someone should tell them<br />

about the Clamato juice.<br />

Waffles with Salted Butterscotch Sauce<br />

Serves 4<br />

Whether with afternoon tea or as an indulgently<br />

sweet breakfast, waffles make a delightful<br />

treat at any time of the day. This recipe makes<br />

particularly fluffy waffles, which are served<br />

drizzled with a home-made butterscotch sauce.<br />

Canadians love their butterscotch as much as<br />

Australians love their mango.<br />

1 vanilla bean<br />

450 ml (16 fl oz) milk<br />

1 tbsp sugar<br />

200 g (7 oz) butter, melted, plus extra<br />

for greasing<br />

8 eggs, separated<br />

1⅔ cups (250 g) plain flour<br />

1 pinch salt<br />

FOR THE BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE<br />

400 g (14 oz) brown sugar<br />

1.2 litres (42 fl oz) single (pure) cream<br />

1 tsp salt<br />

Also: Raspberries, for serving<br />

1 For the butterscotch sauce, caramelise the<br />

brown sugar in a small saucepan over medium<br />

heat, without stirring. Deglaze with the cream<br />

(be careful, the caramel will be very hot!) and<br />

simmer for about 5 minutes until you have a<br />

creamy caramel sauce (it will thicken further as<br />

it cools). Stir in the salt.<br />

2 Preheat the waffle iron for the waffles. Split<br />

the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out the<br />

seeds. Combine the milk, sugar, vanilla seeds<br />

and melted butter. Whisk in the egg yolks. Sift<br />

the flour over the mixture and whisk until all<br />

lumps have dissolved. Beat the egg whites and<br />

salt in a large bowl until stiff. Gently fold into<br />

the batter.<br />

3 Grease the waffle iron. Add one ladleful<br />

of batter at a time and cook the waffles until<br />

golden brown. Serve the waffles with the warm<br />

butterscotch sauce and fresh raspberries.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 61<br />

Wild Rice Frittata with Mushrooms and Bacon<br />

Serves 4<br />

With its delicate long grains and a nutty taste,<br />

wild rice is very different from plain rice in both<br />

appearance and taste. This shouldn’t come as a<br />

surprise, as wild rice is actually the seeds of a<br />

wild reed grass that is not related to rice at all.<br />

It imparts a wonderful flavour to this frittata<br />

and makes it a satisfying meal.<br />

⅔ cup (125 g) wild rice<br />

1 tsp salt<br />

5 eggs<br />

2 egg whites<br />

3 sprigs parsley<br />

½ tsp salt<br />

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper<br />

¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg<br />

1 red onion<br />

2 tsp olive oil<br />

1 sprig rosemary<br />

200 g (7 oz) mixed mushrooms<br />

(chanterelles, button mushrooms)<br />

3 small slices bacon<br />

½ cup (45 g) grated parmesan<br />

1 Place the wild rice in a sieve and rinse<br />

thoroughly in cold water. Transfer the<br />

rice and salt to a saucepan together with<br />

230 ml (7.34 fl oz) water. Bring to the boil.<br />

Cover with a lid and simmer the rice over<br />

low heat for 40–50 minutes. Drain and set<br />

aside.<br />

2 Whisk the eggs and egg whites in a bowl.<br />

Rinse the parsley and shake off excess<br />

water. Pick off the leaves and chop<br />

finely. Stir the parsley, salt, pepper and<br />

nutmeg into the egg mixture. Peel and<br />

finely dice the onion. Heat the olive oil in<br />

an ovenproof frying pan. Add the onion<br />

and sweat until translucent. Rinse the<br />

rosemary and shake off excess water. Pick<br />

off the leaves and add to the onion. Wipe<br />

the mushrooms with a clean tea towel and<br />

halve. Transfer to the pan, increase the heat to high<br />

and sear. Reduce the heat and add the wild rice.<br />

3 Preheat the oven using the grill function. Pour the<br />

egg mixture into the pan and allow to set over low<br />

heat. Top with the bacon and parmesan. Transfer the<br />

pan to the oven and bake the frittata under the grill<br />

for about 5 minutes.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Images and text from Taste the Wild by Lisa Neischlag and<br />

Lars Wentrup. Murdoch Books RRP $37.99


62 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Stop the Press<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD<br />

Afriend from a large family was recently<br />

reflecting wistfully on the light and<br />

sumptuous pancakes that his mother<br />

— who worked full-time — would<br />

often prepare for the family on Sundays.<br />

“It’s funny though,” he said, scratching his<br />

chin thoughtfully. “I never saw her eat one<br />

herself.”<br />

My own suspicion is that she ate the first<br />

abstract, malformed efforts right out of the<br />

pan and counted that as her own breakfast,<br />

since making pancakes for a<br />

crowd is something that should<br />

be over as soon as possible. Still,<br />

life as a woman is chock-full of<br />

doing things for others that we<br />

do not always find enjoyable but<br />

do anyway. Automatically.<br />

I think we can all agree that<br />

no one wants to return to<br />

the old Mad Men days when women were<br />

unapologetically kept down and could not<br />

rely on equality in or outside of the home.<br />

But it seems important to note that during<br />

those so-called simpler times, the many<br />

activities today that we consider de rigueur<br />

— gym memberships, children’s competitive<br />

sports/dance lessons, committee/coaching<br />

commitments — did not exist, at least to<br />

the same degree as today. Similarly, the way<br />

people ate dinner only a few decades ago was<br />

extremely predictable and, therefore, less<br />

complicated. Sunday was a roasted something,<br />

then leftovers, maybe a midweek chop or two<br />

and then the whole cycle was repeated. Again,<br />

not only did other options not occur (there<br />

were no “Memories of Szechwan”) but without<br />

FoodTV, recipe blogs and Instagram, the only<br />

celebrity chef was “Boyardee.”<br />

My own mother, a person of some<br />

resilience, once presented “Turkey Tetrazzini”<br />

— leftovers transformed by a curious powder,<br />

flecked with green — and was rewarded with<br />

familial outrage. The “strangeness” of it all was<br />

too much for my father, who was rattled by<br />

suddenly not having the same-dinner-every-<br />

Wednesday of his life. As a child, I found it<br />

exotic and happily lapped up every one of<br />

those (way) beyond al dente noodles.<br />

The point is, that even though women<br />

today have a much better chance of “having it<br />

all,” none of the traditional expectations have<br />

actually been dropped. In fact, many more<br />

have been surreptitiously grafted on. Meal<br />

planning is now a daunting task since dinners<br />

must not only be healthy, frugal, locallysourced<br />

and fast, but everyone must enjoy it.<br />

This, I think is especially unique to our times.<br />

Back in the day, enjoying<br />

dinner was a nice bonus,<br />

but certainly not a primary<br />

concern. Providing a decent<br />

meal (no one worried about<br />

processed foods!) was enough.<br />

Lack of time and guiltfueled<br />

exhaustion have now<br />

created an industry that will<br />

not only deliver meals but also cater to dietary<br />

preferences. Millennials especially are hugely<br />

comfortable with this concept and definitely<br />

don’t expect to eat the same thing every day.<br />

The dietary bar is set high. Instagram proves<br />

that “regular cooks” are making expensive<br />

enamelware, sous-vide machines, and a<br />

working knowledge of Kombucha positively<br />

mainstream.<br />

For women running their own businesses<br />

and single mothers particularly, exhaustion<br />

and self-sacrifice are an accepted part of life as<br />

they try to do everything, and do it well. But<br />

it’s time to be kinder to ourselves. An hour on<br />

Sunday to read, or a quiet glass of wine as the<br />

pasta water boils is not too much to ask. Make<br />

sure it happens. Regularly.<br />

I recently read an article in which a woman<br />

likened her chaotic life to being slowly<br />

squeezed in a panini press. The fact that she<br />

made this analogy, and that we all understand,<br />

says it all.<br />

SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance writer and<br />

regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. Read more of Sue’s work<br />

on her blog www.speranzanow.com .


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