Eastlife Spring 2020

FOOD & DRINK
Rubbish
Cooks
Reviewed by Emma Kemsley
A charitable supper club has launched at Parker’s Tavern, Cambridge.
Designed to inspire and educate about food waste, chef Tristan Welch,
has created a three-course menu using only ingredients that are
considered ‘waste’. Taking place on the last Monday of every month,
diners will eat for ‘free’ and only pay £20 for a cover charge as well as a £5
donation to Jimmy’s Night Shelter.
Rather than seeing food thrown in the bin, Tristan has sourced produce
from suppliers such as wonky vegetables, forgotten cuts of meat, dented
tins and stale bread to create a tasty menu for diners to enjoy.
Intrigued, I attended the launch back in the autumn to see what
concoctions would be served. Would I see mould on my food? Would I
break a tooth on rock hard bread? Only time would tell…
The evening started with ravioli of artichokes, mature cheese that was
past its sell-by-date but still good to eat and under ripe tomato salsa. It
worked. In fact, it was delicious and my favourite dish of the evening.
Next up was soup using fish cheeks and collars with dented tin beans.
I was apprehensive about this one; fish cheeks don’t sound particularly
appealing. However, it was tasty. Light and full of flavour.
Lamb shoulder knuckle was served for main with braised baby cabbage
and crushed wonky vegetables. Tristan explained the lamb had been
cooked for four and half hours. The meat was tasty but I’m not sure I’ll be
using the end of the cabbage at home. It’s a bit too crunchy for my liking.
Dessert was peach pie with ginger bread ice cream. An unusual
combination but very tasty. I couldn’t quite manage to eat it all as I was so
full. To finish we were served coconut and chocolate petits fours. Tristan
chuckled as he placed them on the table and said: “I can’t believe I’m
serving this.”
He went on to explain that the ingredients for the evening’s feast had
arrived at 10.30am. He had absolutely no idea what would be arriving.
It was quick thinking and creativity from himself and his team to pull
together a delicious menu.
‘Rubbish Cooks’ has opened my eyes to food waste in the restaurant
industry and has made me reconsider what I throw away at home. It’s
been one of my New Year resolutions to reduce the food waste in our
home and I’m pleased to say it’s going well. The supper club is sure to
be a sell-out every month. I highly recommend making a reservation to
experience this creative take on food.
How to book: Rubbish Cooks will run on the last Monday of each
month subsequently. Guests can pre-book via email only on enquiries@
parkerstavern.com. Guests will be charged £20 per head for a threecourse
set menu, £5 of which will donated to Jimmy’s Night Shelter.
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