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INSPIRED BY<br />
ISSUE 105 | JANUARY <strong>2020</strong> | COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />
JAPAN<br />
MARRAKECH<br />
STAYCATIONS<br />
TRAVEL OFFERS<br />
SPARRING<br />
PARTNERS<br />
Recharge at these<br />
dreamy Indian<br />
Ocean spas<br />
The new<br />
New York<br />
How to put a fresh<br />
spin on a golden oldie<br />
Produced in Dubai Production City<br />
Soft-sand beaches, zingy African flavours, and devoid of tourists<br />
– introducing the delicious little islands of São Tomé and Príncipe
JAresorts.com /Manafaru @JAManafaru_Maldives
JA Manafaru, JA an award-winning<br />
an RESORT RESORT IN THE IN THE MALDIVES<br />
Found in Found the most in the northerly most northerly tip of ‘Haa tip Alif of ‘Haa Atoll’ Alif our Atoll’ chic our tropical chic tropical hideaway hideaway features features 84<br />
84<br />
beautifully beautifully appointed appointed beachfront beachfront and over-water and over-water villas, including villas, including three Residences three Residences each<br />
each<br />
with their with own their private own plunge private pool, plunge spacious pool, spacious indoor and indoor outdoor and outdoor living areas.<br />
living areas.<br />
Discover Discover the layers the of layers island of life island with life its unique with its experiences, unique experiences, soar above soar the above scenery the scenery by<br />
by<br />
seaplane, seaplane, dive under dive water under to water meet to colourful meet colourful sea life, swim, sea life, spa, swim, play spa, and play indulge and as indulge you<br />
as you<br />
muse over muse the over magic the of magic JA Manafaru.<br />
of JA Manafaru.<br />
For bookings For bookings or more information, more information, visit JAresorts.com<br />
visit JAresorts.com<br />
or email or reservations.manafaru@jaresorts.com<br />
Welcome note<br />
If, like us, staring at the blank pages of a brand new travel<br />
journal fills you with wanderlust, and you're armed with a<br />
refreshed batch of annual leave, it's high time to start booking<br />
those trips you promised you'd take in <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
Managing Director<br />
Victoria Thatcher<br />
Chief Creative Officer<br />
John Thatcher<br />
General Manager<br />
David Wade<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Faye Bartle<br />
faye@hotmedia.me<br />
Content Writer<br />
Habiba Azab<br />
habiba@hotmedia.me<br />
Editorial Assistant<br />
Ronak Sagar<br />
Art Director<br />
Kerri Bennett<br />
Senior Designer<br />
Hiral Kapadia<br />
If you're still feeling the effects of the silly<br />
season, a wellbeing boosting break could be<br />
just what the doctor ordered. This month,<br />
we've rounded up the 20 best pampering spa<br />
experiences to indulge in across the Indian Ocean<br />
(page 26). From doing your daily sun salutations<br />
on a white-sand beach in the Seychelles to getting<br />
a vitamin infusion in the Maldives or having a<br />
hydrating honey wrap in Mauritius, these luxury<br />
spas will help you emerge a smoother, shinier,<br />
happier version of your former self.<br />
Also inside this issue, we take you to the streets<br />
of New York, where there's always something<br />
new to discover (page 38); shine a light on the<br />
wonderfully off-radar little islands of São Tomé<br />
and Príncipe (page 44); and show you why<br />
swapping cherry blossom for snow-capped<br />
mountains in Japan may be the best decision you<br />
make this year (page 50).<br />
Happy travels,<br />
Faye Bartle<br />
Win!<br />
A two-night stay<br />
at Jumeirah Dar Al<br />
Masyaf in Dubai,<br />
p71<br />
FIVE THINGS<br />
WE LEARNED<br />
THIS ISSUE:<br />
1<br />
Snuggling under a<br />
weighted blanket could<br />
help ease your nerves<br />
when flying, p22<br />
2<br />
The new Statue of<br />
Liberty Museum is the<br />
most significant addition<br />
to Liberty Island since<br />
the statue was launched<br />
in 1886, p38<br />
3<br />
In São Tomé, they like<br />
to 'Léve-léve' ('take it<br />
easy'), p44<br />
4<br />
You can support<br />
disadvantaged women<br />
by sampling their everchanging<br />
menu of local<br />
dishes at Amal Women's<br />
Moroccan restaurant in<br />
Marrakech, p56<br />
5<br />
December through<br />
March is the quietest<br />
and cheapest time to<br />
visit Japan, p50<br />
Senior Advertising Manager<br />
Mia Cachero<br />
mia@hotmedia.me<br />
Production Manager<br />
Muthu Kumar<br />
INSPIRED BY<br />
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Getty Images and Phocal Media<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part<br />
without written permission from<br />
HOT Media is strictly prohibited.<br />
HOT Media does not accept<br />
liability for omissions or errors in<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>.<br />
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worldtravellermagazine.com 5
Yoga on a sandbank at Soneva Jani. Photo by Stevie Mann<br />
Contents<br />
<strong>January</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />
15<br />
GLOBETROTTER<br />
regulars<br />
10 15 22 70 72<br />
TRENDING<br />
DESTINATIONS<br />
This month's go-to<br />
places include sunny<br />
Perth, adventurous Koh<br />
Samui and the winter<br />
wonderland of Yerevan.<br />
GLOBETROTTER<br />
Why ultra all-inclusive<br />
is the way to go in <strong>2020</strong>,<br />
wellbeing boosting<br />
breaks to help you start<br />
the year right, and fab<br />
new hotels on our radar.<br />
THE KNOWLEDGE<br />
Does the thought of<br />
flying give you sweaty<br />
palms? We share some<br />
tried and tested tips<br />
for getting you on that<br />
aeroplane.<br />
DIGITAL DOWNLOAD<br />
Head online for<br />
exclusive travel content<br />
and, better yet, the<br />
chance to win a luxury<br />
stay at Jumeirah Dar Al<br />
Masyaf in Dubai.<br />
SUITE DREAMS<br />
Soak up the views of<br />
Gaudi's Sagrada Familia<br />
from the free-standing<br />
bathtub in this grand<br />
Terrace Suite at The<br />
One Barcelona.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 7
CONTENTS<br />
features<br />
26 38<br />
THE BEST INDIAN GLAMOUR & GRIT<br />
OCEAN SPAS<br />
Faye Bartle discovers<br />
We've rounded up 20 how to put a fresh spin<br />
fabulous places to be on a timeless classic by<br />
pampered in Seychelles, mixing the old with the<br />
Maldives and Mauritius. new in New York.<br />
44<br />
INTO THE UNKNOWN<br />
Soft-sand beaches and<br />
zingy African flavours;<br />
Stanley Stewart<br />
introduces the islands of<br />
São Tomé and Príncipe.<br />
50<br />
CHILL OUT<br />
Onsen baths, piping hot<br />
noodle bowls, and ways<br />
to get cosy, Alicia Miller<br />
explores the snowy<br />
spectacle of Japan.<br />
La Mamounia, Marrakech<br />
56<br />
LONG WEEKEND<br />
weekends<br />
56 60<br />
A LONG WEEKEND STAYCATIONS<br />
IN MARRAKECH Feel in need of a break?<br />
Let the city's heady We have a few more<br />
blend of culture and reasons to book a<br />
beauty lure you in. weekend escape.<br />
66<br />
TRAVEL OFFERS<br />
It's time we sent you<br />
packing. Choose your<br />
next adventure from<br />
our exclusive offers.<br />
8 worldtravellermagazine.com
Wellness Haven at Saray Spa.<br />
Renew for the journey ahead.<br />
A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa,<br />
where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the<br />
well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms,<br />
one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two<br />
Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals<br />
or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious<br />
gifts and spa products for every occasion.<br />
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE<br />
T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />
*Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.
TRENDING DESTINATIONS<br />
Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter,<br />
reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month<br />
Koh Samui<br />
It’s dry season in Thailand – an excellent time to explore its beautiful islands. An adventure seeker's paradise, Koh<br />
Samui is home to the Ang Thong Marine Park – an archipelago of more than 40 islands where you can swim, snorkel,<br />
hike and kayak to your heart's content. Explore the colourful neighbourhoods, such as Chaweng for its buzzing main<br />
street, beach dining and nightlife, as well as the rustic Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village and its popular night market.<br />
Highlights 1 Hire a motorbike and set off on a thrill-a-minute tour – you can circumnavigate the island in just a couple of hours.<br />
2 Stroll through the Secret Buddha Garden private sculpture park atop Pom Mountain and discover its unique collection<br />
of hand-carved statues nestled in the lush jungle. 3 Get fit quick by booking yourself in for some private Muay Thai training<br />
sessions – Punch It Gym takes beginners through to seasoned fighters under its wing.<br />
10 worldtravellermagazine.com
TRENDING DESTINATIONS<br />
Perth<br />
The sunniest (and perhaps the coolest) city in Australia, Perth calls with its glittering downtown skyline, vibrant<br />
Elizabeth Quay, and contemporary Australian dining at the multilevel Print Hall. Enjoy endless sunshine on its<br />
pristine beaches lapped by the Indian Ocean, from the renowned Cottesloe Beach to the 63 white-sand coves on<br />
Rottnest Island, a nature reserve home to the cute and friendly quokka, and which will soon boast a new marina.<br />
Highlights 1 For thrills and spills, head to Perth's Outback Splash, which has unveiled a new six-storey slide tower featuring Western<br />
Australia's fastest-ever body slide, among other attractions. 2 Animal lovers can head to Yanchep National Park to stroll along the<br />
koala boardwalk for a peek at these cuddly creatures in their natural environment. 3 Embark on a tour of Perth's hip urban art,<br />
including the stunning new mega-mural on Hay Street by Melbournian street artist Matt Adnate.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 11
Cape Canaveral<br />
The hub of the US space programme, Cape Canaveral calls would-be astronauts to the Kennedy Space Center<br />
Visitor Complex, where you can learn about space travel, train like an astronaut, or strap yourself in for lift-off in<br />
its shuttle launch experience. It makes a great day trip from Orlando (the theme park capital of the world) as part of<br />
an adventurous itinerary. Or, you can stay at the Cape and enjoy its hotels, restaurants and quiet beaches.<br />
Highlights 1 Visit Canaveral National Seashore, part of America’s national park system, which boasts a vast stretch of beautifully<br />
wild white-sand beach, home to various plant and bird species. 2 Stare into a beautiful sunset at Center Street Park and, with any luck,<br />
you'll enjoy a rare glimpse of manatees in the river. 3 Learn about the city’s past, its present and the origins of its celebrated port at<br />
Exploration Tower, a seven-storey building of interactive exhibits with wonderful views of Port Canaveral.<br />
12 worldtravellermagazine.com
TRENDING DESTINATIONS<br />
Compiled by: Soumaya El Filali<br />
Yerevan<br />
A winter wonderland that's close to home, Yerevan is usually covered in fluffy white snow at this time of year,<br />
and the waters of Lake Sevan freeze over. The city streets light up for the festive period and local businesses<br />
are keen to welcome visitors in from the cold to enjoy delicious local Armenian cuisine, including lots of lavash<br />
bread. Take a day trip to the surrounding mountains for some of the most affordable skiing on the planet.<br />
Highlights 1 Spend some time in the rosy-hued Republic Square, made partly from Armenia’s famous pink tufa stone. Its central building<br />
houses the History Museum of Armenia, as well as the National Art Gallery of Armenia. 2 Climb the 572 steps of the Cascade stairway for<br />
stunning views of the city. While you're there, check out contemporary art giant, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts. 3 Stock up on keepsakes<br />
at Vernissage open-air flea market, where artisan finds include beautiful ceramics, dazzling jewellery and traditional ornaments.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 13
JANUARY<br />
Globetrotter<br />
XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />
Be informed, be inspired, be there<br />
ROCK ON<br />
With its jaw-droppingly beautiful rugged landscape,<br />
star quality and designer shopping, the glamour and<br />
glitz of Capri is a siren call. Join the shiny happy people<br />
heading to this idyllic Italian island hotspot in the spring<br />
when Jumeirah is orchestrating a grand re-opening of<br />
the legendary Capri Palace for a brand new season of la<br />
dolce vita. Born in the 1960s, it is designed in the style of<br />
an 18th century Neapolitan palazzo, with a two-Michelinstar<br />
L’Olivo restaurant, beach club and cutting edge<br />
medical spa enticing you to holiday like the A-list.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 15
GLOBETROTTER<br />
JA The Resort, Dubai<br />
Taylor River Lodge , Colorado<br />
GO ALL IN<br />
Why go all-inclusive when you can go<br />
ultra-all inclusive? We find out what<br />
the fuss is all about...<br />
Kinara by Vikas Khanna<br />
at JA The Resort, Dubai<br />
One &Only Gorilla's Nest<br />
Rio Palena Lodge, Chile<br />
Taking the 'everything's included' concept to the<br />
next level, offering a host of supersized added<br />
extras, ultra-inclusive holidays are the ultimate<br />
indulgence. Here's a few of our favourites: Taylor<br />
River Lodge, Colorado will put you up in a rustic<br />
cabin with an expert guide on hand to help<br />
you make the most of your trip by taking part<br />
in awesome outdoor activities, from fly fishing<br />
in the trout pond to white-water rafting; the<br />
remote Rio Palena Lodge, Chile, situated next<br />
to its namesake river, invites adventure seekers<br />
to discover the best of Patagonia with thrilling<br />
pursuits on tap, such as hiking on a dormant<br />
volcano and a day's heli-fishing; on our doorstep,<br />
JA The Resort in Dubai is luring dedicated<br />
foodies for a mouthwatering staycation with a<br />
free rein at a whopping 25 dining spots there.<br />
ON OUR RADAR<br />
The first aquarium dining<br />
experience in Bali, Koral<br />
Restaurant, has opened<br />
at The Apurva Kempinski<br />
Bali, serving up a taste of<br />
the Indonesian coast.<br />
Polo fans can head to Saudi<br />
Arabia, which is hosting its<br />
first ever polo tournament<br />
from 16-18 <strong>January</strong> at AlUla<br />
heritage site as part of the<br />
Winter at Tantora festival.<br />
Visiting St. Petersburg<br />
just got a little easier for<br />
nationals of 53 foreign<br />
states, including those<br />
from Saudi Arabia, thanks<br />
to the new eVisa service.<br />
The perfect spot for a<br />
girls-only holiday, the new<br />
Sofie’s floor at Sofitel<br />
Dubai Downtown Hotel is<br />
dedicated exclusively to<br />
female guests.<br />
16 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI<br />
THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...<br />
Stay a step ahead<br />
Make an energetic start to the new year by checking out these active<br />
attractions that'll help you discover the capital from a fresh perspective<br />
1Great for all the family, the newly<br />
opened CLYMB Abu Dhabi on<br />
Yas Island calls all those with<br />
a head for heights. It's home to the<br />
world's largest indoor skydiving flight<br />
chamber and tallest indoor climbing<br />
wall, The Summyt, which reaches 43<br />
metres in height. Test your skills with<br />
the help of the expert instructors who<br />
are on hand to ensure everyone from<br />
first-time flyers (aged three and up)<br />
to seasoned climbers have a thrilling<br />
time. The aesthetically stunning<br />
geometrically designed building is an<br />
attraction in itself.<br />
2<br />
Enjoy one of the UAE’s most<br />
beautiful architectural spectacles<br />
from the still waters of the<br />
Arabian Gulf by taking part in a<br />
kayaking tour of Louvre Abu Dhabi.<br />
Guides will take you on a serene<br />
journey around the landmark as<br />
they share the story of the French<br />
museum’s launch in the UAE. Tours<br />
last one hour and are available for<br />
people of all skill levels. For an even<br />
more magical experience, book in for<br />
one of the full moon tours. Children<br />
age six to 12 must be accompanied by<br />
a parent or guardian.<br />
3<br />
Nature lovers can take a hike<br />
along the new Mangrove<br />
Boardwalk opening this month.<br />
Built on Jubail Island, and stretching<br />
between Yas and Saadiyat islands, it<br />
offers a coveted chance to get a feel<br />
for 'the lungs of the city', providing a<br />
glimpse of the area's rich biodiversity,<br />
including its flora and fauna and<br />
exotic bird life (think pink flamingoes<br />
and herons). You can also set off in a<br />
kayak, take the kids to the play area,<br />
or simply soak up the scenery from<br />
the viewing terraces.<br />
Find out more at visitabudhabi.ae<br />
Photo: CLYMB Abu Dhabi<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 17
GLOBETROTTER<br />
NEW<br />
FOR YOU<br />
Fresh places to stay<br />
MALDIVES<br />
EMERALD MALDIVES RESORT & SPA<br />
With its coveted wraparound reef<br />
placing you mere footsteps away from<br />
exotic fish, turtles and manta rays, this<br />
deluxe all-inclusive resort (40-minutes<br />
by seaplane from Malé) will blow the<br />
winter cobwebs away with its mix of<br />
sun, sea, sand and delicious food.<br />
TUNISIA<br />
ANANTARA TOZEUR RESORT<br />
Surrounded by the majestic desert,<br />
with views of the Chott El Djerid salt<br />
flats, this luxury resort on the edge of<br />
Tozeur beckons. We rate the Arabian<br />
Cultural Village, with its souk and<br />
restaurant serving delicacies such as<br />
camel steaks cooked on an open fire.<br />
Photography: Katie Wilson<br />
DUBAI<br />
ANDAZ DUBAI THE PALM<br />
Promising you'll arrive a visitor and<br />
depart a local, this Palm Jumeirah<br />
hotel (which opened on 15 December)<br />
has gone all out to weave local culture<br />
into its DNA. Lap up its adults-only<br />
Cabana pool area, boutique spa, yoga<br />
terrace and five delicious dining spots.<br />
18 worldtravellermagazine.com
GLOBETROTTER<br />
ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort and Spa<br />
SELF-CARE HOTSPOTS<br />
WELLBEING BOOSTING BREAKS<br />
JET OFF ON A HEALTH TRIP<br />
TAKE A THERAPEUTIC DUNK...<br />
IN THE HOT SPRINGS OF JAPAN<br />
Famous for its hot springs, Oita<br />
Prefecture in Japan is the place<br />
to go for a beautifying dunk. ANA<br />
InterContinental Beppu Resort and<br />
Spa is designed to coax guests into a<br />
state of calm, with its own stylish onsen<br />
inviting you to soak in the soothing<br />
myoban waters while overlooking<br />
Beppu Bay. Turn to page 50 to read our<br />
feature on winter in Japan.<br />
PRACTICE MINDFULNESS... ON A<br />
WELLNESS CRUISE IN VIETNAM<br />
Heritage Line has launched a threeday<br />
wellness and mindfulness focused<br />
voyage on Lan Ha Bay in Vietnam.<br />
Board the 10-suite vessel, Ylang, and<br />
be pampered in the floating spa inbetween<br />
meditation sessions, early<br />
morning tai chi sessions on the deck<br />
and savouring light Vietnamese dishes.<br />
HAVE A HOLISTIC DETOX...<br />
IN KOH SAMUI<br />
Need a clean sweep? Ease yourself<br />
into it on the 12-Day Holistic Detox<br />
Package at Absolute Sanctuary,<br />
Koh Samui, which incorporates spa<br />
treatments and alternative therapies,<br />
such as magnesium foot baths and<br />
Thai stretch massages, alongside two<br />
healthy meals a day.<br />
It seems you can put a price on good<br />
health. International wellness tourists<br />
spend around US$1,528* per trip<br />
Feeling under pressure? The 7-day<br />
Stress Management Programme<br />
at Spain's SHA Wellness Clinic will<br />
restore vitality, health and balance.<br />
Need to break out of a rut? Holistic<br />
healer Leela Isani, will take you on a<br />
journey of self-healing at Atmantan<br />
Wellness Resort in India this month.<br />
Soneva Jani in Maldives currently<br />
has a fab line-up of visiting wellness<br />
practitioners specialising in<br />
ayurveda to help you feel your best.<br />
*Source: The The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) Global Wellness Economy Monitor<br />
20 worldtravellermagazine.com
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KNOW-HOW<br />
The Knowledge<br />
HOW TO...<br />
Conquer your fear of flying<br />
From the art of deep breathing to snuggling under a weighted blanket<br />
– we share some practical and easy tips for getting you on that aeroplane<br />
Clammy palms, palpitations, butterflies<br />
in the tummy… if the very thought of<br />
flying breaks you out in a cold sweat,<br />
you’re not alone. One in four UAE<br />
residents have a fear of flying, according<br />
to a study by British Airways, with<br />
concerns around safety and being<br />
afraid of the unknown the biggest<br />
triggers. While severe aviophobia<br />
can be a challenge to overcome, if<br />
you have a moderate case of the<br />
jitters there are lots of useful tips<br />
and tricks to try so you don’t have to<br />
miss out on those exotic holidays.<br />
TALK TO AN EXPERT<br />
A good first step is to reach out to a<br />
professional who can draw upon some<br />
tried and tested therapies to help get<br />
you airborne. “For a fear of flying,<br />
we work on visualisation, reducing<br />
anxiety, systematic desensitisation, and<br />
exposure therapy,” says Dr Thoraiya<br />
Kanafani of the Human Relations<br />
Institute and Clinics in Dubai. “The<br />
gist of the treatments are based on<br />
the cognitive behavioural therapy<br />
approach, which posits that by<br />
changing the way that we think, we can<br />
ultimately change the way we behave.<br />
Eventually, the anxiety subsides to<br />
a level where it is no longer causing<br />
any dysfunction in the person's life<br />
or at times, even acknowledged.”<br />
USE FACTS OVER FEAR<br />
Many fears can stem from ‘what if?’,<br />
so if you are armed with facts and<br />
knowledge, these unknowns become<br />
greatly diminished. Did you know, for<br />
instance, that turbulence is a natural<br />
occurrence when flying and, although<br />
it can feel scary at times, it's totally<br />
normal? British Airways has a one-day<br />
course coming up in Dubai on April 17,<br />
<strong>2020</strong> led by experienced presenters<br />
and BA pilots that explains the<br />
technical side of aviation, including all<br />
the unusual noises and sensations you<br />
experience in an aircraft. Plus, they'll<br />
share some relaxation techniques that'll<br />
help you take control of your anxiety.<br />
(See flyingwithconfidence.com).<br />
GRAB A WEIGHTED BLANKET<br />
Studies have shown that a weighted<br />
blanket can have a relaxing effect on<br />
the body. Hence, getting your hands on<br />
a travel-friendly version can help you<br />
feel more at ease mid-flight. Popular<br />
brands include SensaCalm and ZonLi<br />
– you can find them easily online.<br />
BREATHE SLOWLY<br />
AND STEADILY<br />
Simple breathing exercises can send a<br />
signal to the parasympathetic nervous<br />
system to calm the body down.<br />
Breathing expert Max Strom (maxstrom.<br />
com) has some easy videos and courses<br />
to try – simply download his Strategic<br />
Breathing app. One such suggestion is<br />
the 4-7-8 breath technique: empty the<br />
lungs of air, breathe in quietly through<br />
the nose for four seconds, hold the<br />
breath for a count of seven seconds<br />
and then exhale to a count of eight.<br />
GET PLUGGED IN<br />
While you’re packing, en-route to the<br />
airport, in the sky; tune into the power<br />
of music to keep you calm. Researchers<br />
at Stanford University say that music is<br />
“one of the most widely available and<br />
cost effective therapeutic modalities<br />
that ever existed” and suggest that<br />
"listening to music seems to be able<br />
to change brain functioning to the<br />
same extent as medication”. Apps like<br />
Calm and Spotify have some perfectly<br />
curated playlists to help soothe you.<br />
VISUALISE<br />
Exercises in visualisation and<br />
mindfulness can be a powerful<br />
distraction from a state of fear. Try<br />
visualising yourself stepping off the<br />
aircraft into the arms of loved ones,<br />
or into a lovely warm climate. There<br />
are many apps available to support<br />
you with guided exercises, including<br />
Headspace, Catch It, Beat Panic, Thrive<br />
and the online course, Be Mindful.<br />
22 worldtravellermagazine.com
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A diamond in the rough<br />
Escape to Anantara’s resort in Salalah and unlock an intriguing mixture<br />
of culture and heritage, with a generous helping of outdoor adventure<br />
Luxe mobile camping<br />
24 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA<br />
One Bedroom Beach View Pool Villa<br />
One Bedroom Garden<br />
View Pool Villa<br />
The luxurious<br />
hammam<br />
Set on a wild, palm-fringed beach,<br />
Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara<br />
is an idyllic hideaway that's fast<br />
becoming a favourite among intrepid<br />
travellers. For a moment, you may even be<br />
fooled into thinking you’re lazing on the<br />
tropical beaches of southern India as you<br />
unwind on the pristine stretch of shoreline.<br />
The reality is even better, however, as<br />
the verdant southern province of Dhofar<br />
is famous for its lush natural attractions,<br />
including its fruit plantations, waterfalls<br />
and green rolling hills that burst into life<br />
during the summer monsoon season. Home<br />
to fascinating sites including Al Balid City,<br />
which dates to 2000 BCE, and the Museum<br />
of the Land of Frankincense, it's also the<br />
perfect spot in which to soak up the rich<br />
Omani heritage. Indeed, the destination<br />
calls adventure-seekers in droves with its<br />
awesome landscape that blends the majestic<br />
mountains, great expanses of desert and the<br />
sparkling blue sea.<br />
Guests at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by<br />
Anantara can enjoy a bespoke itinerary,<br />
which weaves in all those must-have<br />
experiences, from camel trekking with<br />
members of the local Mahrah tribe along<br />
the ancient frankincense routes, to special<br />
interest trips focusing on marine life,<br />
astrology, archaeology and more. Hiking<br />
in the mountains, which are dotted with<br />
cultural and historic sites and brimming<br />
with flora and fauna, is unmissable – make<br />
your way up for views that will take your<br />
breath away. Those who like to be on the<br />
water can take part in dolphin and seaturtle<br />
watching, enjoy a day’s fishing, or<br />
discover the underwater delights with some<br />
snorkelling or diving in the area, which is<br />
teeming with sea life.<br />
Back at the resort, you can stay in hot<br />
pursuit of adventure while on a glamorous<br />
camping experience. Operated by Oman<br />
Expeditions, you can sleep under the stars<br />
(albeit with all your creature comforts) in<br />
a luxury tent complete with comfortable<br />
mattress, cotton sheets, private bathroom,<br />
and open-air shower, with finishing touches<br />
including Arabesque rugs, candles and oil<br />
lamps creating a magical ambience. Your<br />
personal chefs will prepare an array of Middle<br />
Eastern, North African and Mediterranean<br />
dishes using local ingredients for a delectable<br />
dinner under the stars served by the camp<br />
fire. During your adventure, you’ll cross paths<br />
with local tribesmen and get an up close look<br />
at the rich wildlife the country has to offer,<br />
as you experience the way of the bedouin.<br />
Simply tailor the experience to suit you.<br />
If all that adventure has burned through<br />
your energy reserves, take some time to<br />
rejuvenate at the main resort. Offering<br />
elegant rooms and villas (the largest of<br />
which sleeps up to six adults and three<br />
children), a pampering spa that draws<br />
upon age-old Ayurveda techniques and<br />
fine dining on tap, you'll receive nothing<br />
short of the royal treatment. Feed your<br />
appreciation for the place by siting down<br />
to a five-star meal at Mekong, which brings<br />
together some of the best of Thai, Chinese<br />
and Vietnamese cuisine. Another favourite<br />
is beach bar and lounge Al Mina, offering<br />
dishes inspired by Middle Eastern,<br />
Spanish, Greek and Italian cuisine, as well<br />
as a sizzling beach barbecue that's best<br />
enjoyed alfresco.<br />
To find out more, visit www.anantara.<br />
com/en/al-baleed-salalah<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 25
The Indian Ocean’s<br />
most incredible spas<br />
Feeling jaded after the festive season? Head to one of these dreamy spas<br />
in the Maldives, Seychelles or Mauritius to thoroughly recharge<br />
Seychelles<br />
Le Syel Spa, Four Seasons<br />
Resort Seychelles<br />
High on a hilltop overlooking Petite Anse<br />
Bay on Mahé’s southwestern coast, this<br />
nurturing spa is reason enough to check-in<br />
for at least a week. There are five open-air<br />
treatment rooms, all facing the ocean and<br />
with an outdoor bathtub for soaking up<br />
the best views and breezes. Treatments<br />
such as facials, body scrubs and massages<br />
are locally-inspired and performed by<br />
expert hands, while the resident yogis and<br />
visiting practitioners, from reiki healers to<br />
sophrologists, provide top-to-toe rebalancing.<br />
Top treatment: Performed by two therapists<br />
working in unison, the Four-Handed Elevation<br />
is two hours of pure, sleep-inducing bliss.<br />
Raffles Spa, Raffles Seychelles<br />
On the north-eastern tip of Praslin, the<br />
second-largest island in the Seychelles, this<br />
slick spa mixes Biologique Recherche facials<br />
with Asian massage and yoga. There are a<br />
dozen open-air treatment pavilions where you<br />
can admire the views of the sapphire-blue<br />
ocean (if you can keep your eyes open long<br />
enough, that is). Recline by the outdoor pool<br />
in between treatments, and relax in the sauna,<br />
steam room and Jacuzzi.<br />
Top treatment: For the most buttery-soft<br />
skin imaginable, try the Traditional Chocolate<br />
Scrub – a sweet-smelling concoction of cacao<br />
powder, raw sugar and coconut oil.<br />
26 worldtravellermagazine.com
SUITE INCREDIBLE SPOTS SPAS 2019<br />
Le Syel Spa, Four<br />
Seasons Resort<br />
Seychelles Photo:<br />
Ken Seet<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 27
INCREDIBLE SPAS<br />
Kempinski The Spa, Kempinski<br />
Seychelles Resort Baie Lazare<br />
Set on a stunning stretch of coastline in southwest<br />
Mahé, the Kempinski’s spa menu is inspired by the<br />
four seasons. Nestled among swaying palm trees<br />
with the air infused by frangipanis, there are six<br />
thatch-roof bungalows and a menu of treatments<br />
designed to leave you feeling revitalised, relaxed,<br />
balanced or energised. Rejuvenate both body and<br />
mind with morning yoga on a hilltop overlooking<br />
the sea, and afternoon pétanque on the beach.<br />
Top treatment: Experience three coconut-infused<br />
treatments – an exfoliating body scrub, hair<br />
treatment and massage – during the two-hour<br />
Island Coco Trio ritual.<br />
U Spa by Constance,<br />
Constance Ephelia<br />
Where better to unwind than a<br />
barefoot-luxe resort on Mahé’s<br />
northwestern coast, bookended by<br />
beaches with a mangrove forest in<br />
the middle? Tucked among tropical<br />
gardens, U Spa by Constance is like<br />
a mini-village: a dozen traditionalstyle<br />
bungalows dotted around<br />
a pool, with sauna, steam room,<br />
Jacuzzi, yoga pavilion and beauty<br />
bar. Take your pick of treatments<br />
and couples’ rituals that use natural<br />
products inspired by local plants,<br />
while the soothing soundtrack of<br />
birdsong floats in.<br />
Top treatment: The no-oil Thai<br />
shiatsu massage combines deep<br />
kneading and stretching to help<br />
ease tense muscles and balance<br />
your mind.<br />
AvaniSpa, Avani Barbarons Resort<br />
& Spa<br />
Ease into the rhythm of island life at this tranquil<br />
spa on Mahé’s west coast. Choose from ‘me-time’<br />
treatments or ‘we-time’ couples’ rituals performed<br />
by skilled therapists using natural products,<br />
including nourishing body treatments, heavenly<br />
massages and Ayurvedic therapies. In-between<br />
treatments, work on your tan by the plunge pool,<br />
or head down to the beach where the resident<br />
yoga instructor leads daily sun salutations and<br />
guided meditations.<br />
Top treatment: Want smooth, plumped-up skin?<br />
The Glorious Skin facial reduces fine lines and<br />
rehydrates sun-damaged skin.<br />
28 worldtravellermagazine.com
Banyan Tree Spa,<br />
Banyan Tree<br />
Seychelles<br />
Banyan Tree spas are all<br />
about traditional techniques<br />
(Thai, Balinese, Ayurvedic)<br />
and natural ingredients<br />
(coconut, honey, cucumber),<br />
and this gorgeous hideaway<br />
on Mahé’s south-western<br />
coast is no exception.<br />
Nimble-fingered therapists<br />
will unknot tense muscles<br />
so you float out feeling<br />
incredibly calm, while yoga<br />
and meditation sessions take<br />
place in the tropical gardens<br />
overlooking the crescentshaped<br />
beach, or on the<br />
powdery soft sand.<br />
Top treatment: The 2.5-hour<br />
Royal Banyan ritual begins<br />
with a herbal soak, followed<br />
by acupressure, herbal<br />
compresses and a soothing<br />
face massage.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 29
INCREDIBLE SPAS<br />
Maldives<br />
The Over-Water Spa, Conrad Maldives<br />
Rangali Island<br />
With three glass-floored treatment rooms set on stilts over<br />
the sea, this spectacular spa in the South Ari Atoll offers<br />
both ancient therapies and modern treatments. There’s<br />
a comprehensive massage menu, including hot stone,<br />
four-hand, shiatsu and Thai, as well as a dozen different<br />
facials with products from Elemis and cult Swiss brand<br />
Valmont. Two-hour colour rituals, meanwhile, are designed<br />
to balance your chakras (stressed-out types should opt for<br />
energising orange).<br />
Top treatment: Enjoy side-by-side pampering during the<br />
Maldivian Indigenous couples’ treatment that includes a<br />
full-body massage using heated coconut sticks.<br />
Six Senses Spa,<br />
Six Senses Laamu<br />
Overlooking a talcum-white beach in<br />
the remote southern Laamu Atoll, the<br />
Six Senses Spa has a zen-inducing vibe.<br />
The focus is on natural and holistic<br />
treatments, including facials, wraps<br />
and gentle full-body pummelling, along<br />
with Ayurveda therapies based on your<br />
dosha (body type) and soul-nurturing<br />
meditation and yoga in the rooftop<br />
studio. For targeted transformation,<br />
opt for a bespoke wellness programme<br />
focusing on sleep, fitness or detoxing.<br />
Top treatment: Banish fine lines with the<br />
24k Gold Age-Defying Facial, which uses<br />
jasmine and gold leaf to boost collagen<br />
production and stimulate cell renewal.<br />
Six Senses Laamu<br />
Iaso Medi Spa, Heritance<br />
Aarah<br />
Named after the Greek goddess of<br />
recuperation, this overwater spa in<br />
the Raa Atoll offers much more than<br />
massage. Alongside facials, body scrubs<br />
and pedicures, there’s a menu of highly<br />
specialised treatments to target pesky<br />
problems such as sunspots, sagging<br />
necks and frown lines. Need a total<br />
reboot? Tailored programmes combine<br />
things like vitamin infusions, face peels<br />
and PT sessions to help you roll back<br />
the years or shift those extra pounds.<br />
Top treatment: Tighten and brighten<br />
dull and droopy skin with a Non-Surgical<br />
Facelift, which uses microcurrents to<br />
boost collagen.<br />
Heavenly Spa, The Westin Maldives<br />
Miriandhoo Resort<br />
Set on a jetty jutting into the turquoise waters<br />
of the Baa Atoll, this aptly-named spa has<br />
glass-walled treatment rooms with windows in<br />
the floor so you can keep an eye on the marine<br />
life below. Choose from anti-ageing facials and<br />
muscle-melting massages to paraffin hand<br />
treatments and pedicures. After you’ve been<br />
thoroughly pampered, head to the light-filled<br />
lounge for a cup of herbal tea and yet more<br />
blissful views.<br />
Top treatment: The 90-minute Maldivian<br />
Bliss face and body treatment includes a<br />
magnesium-rich bath and dynamic massage<br />
for instant results.<br />
30 worldtravellermagazine.com
SUITE SPOTS 2019<br />
Calm Spa & Salon,<br />
JA Manafaru Maldives<br />
In the northernmost Haa Alif<br />
Atoll, JA Manafaru’s fabulous<br />
retreat was named Best Luxury<br />
Destination Spa at this year’s<br />
<strong>World</strong> Luxury Spa Awards.<br />
Pad through lush tropical<br />
gardens to the thatched-roof<br />
spa surrounded by a lily pond,<br />
where all 10 treatment rooms<br />
come with private garden and<br />
outdoor bathtub. One room<br />
is kitted out for Ayurvedic oil<br />
treatments and another for<br />
Thai massage, while treatments<br />
includes facials, massages,<br />
scrubs and wraps.<br />
Top treatment: The ultraindulgent<br />
Seven Day Manafaru<br />
Journey includes coconut-oil<br />
massages, Elemis facials, aftersun<br />
treatments and more.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 31
Sun Spa by Esthederm,<br />
Movenpick Resort<br />
Kuredhivaru Maldives<br />
Nestled in the Noonu Atoll, this<br />
sublime spa specialises in pre- and<br />
post-sun rituals by French skincare<br />
brand Esthederm to enhance your<br />
golden glow. Treatments take<br />
place in jungle suites or overwater<br />
pavilions, with skilled therapists to<br />
ease away shoulder knots and plump<br />
tired skin. Special treatments are<br />
available for little ones, while yogis<br />
will love the overwater shala where<br />
you can practise your poses during<br />
sunrise or sunset classes.<br />
Top treatment: Let your cares<br />
float away during a Sea of Serenity<br />
massage, which uses firm, rhythmic<br />
strokes inspired by waves.<br />
32 worldtravellermagazine.com
INCREDIBLE SPAS<br />
Spa by JW, JW Marriott<br />
Maldives Resort<br />
As relaxed as you may be lounging by<br />
the pool at this brand new resort in the<br />
northern Shaviyani Atoll, you’ll definitely<br />
want to check out the brilliant Spa by<br />
JW. Against a backdrop of shimmering<br />
aquamarine water, treatments range<br />
from pampering to deeply restorative<br />
– think hydrating facials, warm-oil<br />
massages and perfect mani-pedis. Be<br />
sure to squeeze in a workout at the<br />
overwater gym, or stretch out in the<br />
open-air yoga pavilion.<br />
Top treatment: Couples can choose<br />
between four different treatments<br />
during the two-hour Island Touch ritual,<br />
including reflexology, body scrub and<br />
hot stone massage.<br />
AVI Spa, InterContinental<br />
Maldives Maamunagau<br />
Resort<br />
Meaning ‘sunshine’ in the local language,<br />
AVI Spa’s thatched-roof overwater<br />
villas offer picture-perfect views of<br />
the Raa Atoll’s largest lagoon. When<br />
you’re not spotting manta rays, indulge<br />
in sweet-smelling organic treatments<br />
and mani-pedis by Margaret Dabbs, or<br />
try acupuncture and aerial yoga. There<br />
are outdoor pools with hydro-massage<br />
jets, as well as thermal suites with steam<br />
rooms and ice fountains.<br />
Top treatment: Bliss out with a soothing<br />
aloe vera and lavender body wrap,<br />
followed by a scalp massage, during the<br />
60-minute Sun-kissed Skin Cooler.<br />
Away Spa, W Maldives<br />
This private island resort in the North<br />
Ari Atoll serves up a full menu of<br />
massages, facials and more immersive<br />
experiences – think chakra balancing<br />
and sound bathing – in four luxurious<br />
treatment villas on the water. Each one<br />
has a spectacular sundeck with soaring<br />
white sails, outdoor tub and daybed so<br />
you can chill out before and after your<br />
treatments. In the main pavilion, you can<br />
practise your asanas during group or<br />
private yoga classes.<br />
Top treatment: The hour-long Crystal<br />
Healing Facial includes a jade-stone<br />
mask, use of cool rose-quartz crystals<br />
and warm herbal poultices to purify<br />
the skin.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 33
Mauritius<br />
Chi Spa, Shangri-La’s Le<br />
Touessrok Resort & Spa<br />
Alongside nine treatment rooms in earthy<br />
tones, you can elect to have your treatment<br />
by the ocean at Shangri-La’s sleek resort on<br />
the east coast. The menu is filled with Asian<br />
therapies (Chinese reflexology, Filipino hilot<br />
massage, Indian shirodhara) and face and<br />
body treatments using luxurious Carita and<br />
Decléor products. But as you’re in Mauritius,<br />
try a locally-inspired massage performed to<br />
the meditative rhythms of traditional sega<br />
tipik music.<br />
Top treatment: Ayurveda devotees should<br />
indulge in an Abhyanga detoxifying<br />
massage with long, symmetrical strokes to<br />
promote sleep.<br />
34 worldtravellermagazine.com
INCREDIBLE SPAS<br />
Shanti Spa, Shanti<br />
Maurice Resort<br />
With more than 25 treatment rooms,<br />
this south coast idyll is one of the largest<br />
spas in Mauritius. Set around a serene<br />
lagoon dotted with water lilies and two<br />
tea pavilions, the complex contains<br />
pavilions for aerial yoga, a Pilates studio,<br />
meditation rooms, hammams and two<br />
pools. Along with conventional face<br />
and body treatments, the spa takes<br />
an holistic, mind-body-soul approach<br />
to wellness, with a resident Ayurveda<br />
doctor on hand to devise customised<br />
programmes for each and every guest.<br />
Top treatment: Try Watsu, a form of<br />
shiatsu massage and movement therapy<br />
that takes place in a warm pool.<br />
Lux Me Spa, LUX* Grand Gaube<br />
Resort & Villas<br />
This impressive spa on the island’s north<br />
coast has 10 treatment rooms, sauna and<br />
steam rooms, Kérastase hair salon and Essie<br />
nail station, plus three pools with varying<br />
water temperatures. Tailor-made treatments<br />
include anti-ageing facials by Carita, and<br />
massage with exclusive oils created by<br />
renowned aromatherapist Shirley Page. For<br />
targeted results, chat to Burwing, the resident<br />
wellness concierge, who provides bespoke<br />
programmes and nutritional advice.<br />
Top treatment: The fashionably hirsute should<br />
go for the signature Wet Shave at Murdock, an<br />
outpost of the hip London barbershop.<br />
Iridium Spa, The St. Regis<br />
Mauritius Resort<br />
Staying at this colonial-style resort on<br />
the gorgeous Le Morne Peninsula on the<br />
island’s southwest tip is a tonic in itself.<br />
The sprawling spa, meanwhile, boasts 12<br />
treatment rooms, sauna and steam rooms,<br />
hair and nail salons and a barbershop.<br />
Treatments are decadent but results-driven<br />
– facial therapies by Swiss brand Valmont,<br />
cellulite-busting lymphatic massage<br />
and hydrating honey wraps – while daily<br />
mindfulness, tai chi and yoga classes add<br />
to the relaxed vibe.<br />
Top treatment: Start your day right with<br />
the Morning Bliss in Paradise, a ylang ylang<br />
massage for two in a cabana on the beach,<br />
followed by a healthy breakfast.<br />
Words by: Lara Brunt<br />
U Spa by Constance,<br />
Constance Prince Maurice<br />
This serene spa on the northeast coast<br />
features seven treatment rooms centred<br />
around a palm-shaded courtyard with a<br />
thermal pool, along with a sauna, steam<br />
room and plunge pool. Gentle therapists<br />
deliver hydrating facials and toning<br />
body treatments by French spa brand<br />
Sisley, while honeymooning couples<br />
enjoy Balinese massages in the openair<br />
pavilion by the beach. Kids aren’t<br />
forgotten either, with junior treatments<br />
and animal yoga classes.<br />
Top treatment: Treat your feet to a<br />
medical-grade pedicure designed by<br />
celebrity podiatrist Brice Nicham, whose<br />
A-list fans include Nicole Kidman and<br />
Eva Longoria.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 35
XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />
Postcards<br />
Stories from journeys<br />
far and wide<br />
NEW YORK p38<br />
SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE p44<br />
JAPAN p50<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 37
XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />
38 worldtravellermagazine.com
NEW YORK<br />
From soaring landmarks to awe-inspiring art,<br />
luxury shopping and dishes with star quality<br />
– Faye Bartle discovers how to put a fresh spin on<br />
a timeless classic by mixing the old with the new in<br />
the city that never sleeps<br />
Opposite: Interior view of The<br />
Vessel, courtesy Of Tim Schenck<br />
This page: Nordstrom NYC.<br />
Photo: Connie Zhou<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 39
With its bold blue swirls<br />
blending the hills into<br />
the sky and dashes of<br />
brilliant yellow and<br />
white punctuating the darkness, Van<br />
Gogh’s Starry Night has a hypnotising<br />
quality. Firmly under its spell, some<br />
polite jostling allowed me to make my<br />
way to the front of the hushed crowd<br />
that had gathered to behold its haunting<br />
beauty until I was planted firmly on the<br />
viewing line. Smaller than I imagined<br />
it would be, but mighty nonetheless,<br />
I dared to lean a little further towards<br />
it, earning an impressive dose of<br />
side-eye from the security guard.<br />
Painted in 1889 during the artist’s<br />
stay at the asylum of Saint-Paulde-Mausole<br />
near Saint-Rémy-de-<br />
Provence, the movement in the<br />
masterpiece is infectious. Stifling<br />
my urge to reach out and touch it, I<br />
took one last mental snapshot for the<br />
memory bank before giving way to<br />
the next patient row of onlookers.<br />
There was plenty more to see<br />
inside New York’s Museum of Modern<br />
Art. Having recently re-opened<br />
after a massive renovation, which<br />
has brought expanded galleries<br />
and brand new spaces dedicated to<br />
live performances, art creation and<br />
sparking conversation, this muchloved<br />
institution is buzzing with people<br />
seeking a fresh perspective on the Big<br />
Apple’s quintessential art experience.<br />
‘<br />
YOU CAN SEE<br />
ROTHKO’S BEST<br />
TEARJERKERS,<br />
DALÍ’S MELTING<br />
CLOCKS AND<br />
EVEN MONET’S<br />
MURAL-SIZED<br />
WATER LILIES<br />
TRIPTYCH<br />
’<br />
Yes, you can see Rothko’s best<br />
tearjerkers, Dalí’s melting clocks and<br />
even Monet’s dreamy mural-sized Water<br />
Lilies triptych. But you can also now<br />
view emerging works in the Marie-Josée<br />
and Henry Kravis Studio (the new space<br />
for live and experimental programming)<br />
which, when I visited, was home to<br />
a curious immersive installation by<br />
electronic music maestro David Tudor.<br />
As I strolled around the room, turning<br />
my ears towards the sounds resonating<br />
from the everyday objects suspended in<br />
the air (the vintage computer hard disc<br />
was my favourite instrument) I found<br />
myself craving an altogether different<br />
soundtrack – that of New York itself.<br />
The whoosh of a subway train<br />
speeding past, the incessant honking<br />
of taxi horns, a flurry of shoes clickclacking<br />
along the sidewalks, sirens<br />
40 worldtravellermagazine.com
NEW YORK<br />
These pages, clockwise from<br />
this image: Statue of Liberty<br />
Museum Engagement Gallery,<br />
courtesy of National Park<br />
Service; Presidential Suite by<br />
Roche Bobois at The Langham,<br />
New York, Fifth Avenue;<br />
installation view of Claude<br />
Monet’s Water Lilies (Gallery<br />
515) The Museum of Modern<br />
Art, New York. © 2019 The<br />
Museum of Modern Art.<br />
Photo: Kurt Heumiller<br />
wailing and street vendors enticing you<br />
to buy their pretzels and hot dogs in<br />
their thick New York drawl… the city’s<br />
energetic score may seem mundane to<br />
some but, to me, is absolutely thrilling.<br />
Formerly a dedicated London rat, a<br />
decade in Dubai had me missing the<br />
sounds of the streets. And although<br />
the winter weather was decidedly<br />
fresh – I’d forgotten what it felt like<br />
to be slapped in the face by a sub-zero<br />
gale – I was determined to spend the<br />
majority of my time exploring on foot.<br />
Gloves and woolly hat on, a walk<br />
in Central Park was non-negotiable.<br />
The last time I had visited, in 2004,<br />
there was snow on the ground.<br />
On this brisk November morning,<br />
however, as skaters glided across<br />
the ice rink, the leaves falling from<br />
the trees were still heart-warming<br />
shades of brown, red and orange.<br />
“Hey, where you from?”<br />
shouted a stranger wrapped<br />
up like the Michelin Man.<br />
“Dubai,” I offered back.<br />
“I’ve heard it’s a very nice country,”<br />
he retorted. I could have explained, but<br />
instead I simply smiled and continued<br />
on my city hike. Anyway, I had a lunch<br />
date at Marea, the famous Italian on<br />
the edge of the park, where you can<br />
often spot off-duty A-listers (Sarah<br />
Jessica Parker – her shoe boutique is<br />
just a hop and a skip away – Jay-Z and<br />
Beyoncé and even Barack and Michelle<br />
Obama have reportedly eaten there). It’s<br />
certainly the place to see and be seen.<br />
We craned our necks while sipping our<br />
bubbly but alas, the restaurant’s two<br />
Michelin stars would have to be enough<br />
to dazzle us today – and that they did.<br />
My oysters were plump and delicious,<br />
and the striped bass with clams was<br />
rich in flavour yet light enough for<br />
a middle of the day indulgence.<br />
Experiencing New York’s vibrant dining<br />
scene while actively trying to avoid falling<br />
into a food coma was proving quite the<br />
challenge, however. I savoured a divinely<br />
rich homemade short rib and boschetto<br />
cheese ravioli at yet another Italian great,<br />
Ai Fiori [The Langham, New York, Fifth<br />
Avenue], tasted zingy gazpacho before<br />
splitting a humongous lip-smacking<br />
black Angus steak at Leña in Mercado<br />
Little Spain [10 Hudson Yards], and<br />
enjoyed a taste of home at Ilili restaurant<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 41
NEW YORK<br />
[236 5 th Avenue], which serves Lebanese<br />
Mediterranean food with a twist, such<br />
as lamb chops seared with zaatar salsa<br />
verde and homemade semolina gnocchi,<br />
as well as all your mezze favourites.<br />
Everything I tasted was beyond delicious.<br />
Even the steaming cup of hot chocolate I<br />
sipped to warm my bones on the ferry to<br />
Liberty Island was extraordinarily good.<br />
I was heading there for a slice of<br />
American history courtesy of the<br />
new Statue of Liberty Museum,<br />
which opened in May last year – the<br />
most significant addition since the<br />
monument herself was launched in<br />
1886. Home to three immersive and<br />
engaging gallery spaces, it tells the<br />
story of Lady Liberty, where she came<br />
from, how she was built and what she<br />
stands for culminating in an up-close<br />
view of the original torch, which was<br />
held high for nearly 100 years until it<br />
was replaced in 1986. You can practically<br />
feel the power surging though it. And<br />
while you can’t visit the monument's<br />
real torch today (it has been closed since<br />
the Black Tom explosion in 1916), you<br />
can climb all the way up to the crown.<br />
I was saving my legs for scaling<br />
the Empire State Building, however,<br />
which was just around the block from<br />
my hotel; The Langham, New York,<br />
Fifth Avenue. I joined the sunset<br />
rush, zooming up in the lift and then<br />
climbing the last few flights to the<br />
open-air 86 th Floor Observation Deck<br />
in order to get there before the sun<br />
dipped below the horizon. The view<br />
was just as magical as I had hoped for,<br />
with everything from Times Square to<br />
the Brooklyn Bridge, to feast my eyes<br />
on, it’s still one of the most romantic<br />
ways to get an overview of the city.<br />
Another elevated experience that<br />
won a place in my heart was walking<br />
The High Line. This public park built<br />
on a historic freight rail line above<br />
the streets on Manhattan’s West Side<br />
is dotted with public art, beautiful<br />
gardens and more, delivering surprises<br />
at every twist and turn. Peering out<br />
from underneath my umbrella, I spotted<br />
Robert Indiana's Love sculptures,<br />
canoodling couples and bold political<br />
statements as window dressings in<br />
the apartments that line the track.<br />
I came back down to ground level at<br />
Hudson Yards, yet only with a view to<br />
scaling yet another new attraction: The<br />
Vessel, which opened in March 2019.<br />
The honeycomb-like structure, designed<br />
by Thomas Heatherwick, is comprised<br />
of 154 intricately interconnecting<br />
flights of stairs, challenging you with<br />
almost 2,500 steps to take to reach<br />
the top. Gritty views of the city, the<br />
river and beyond are your reward.<br />
With my trip drawing to a close, I<br />
was keen to see what New York had to<br />
offer on the shopping front that was<br />
different to what I could find back<br />
at home. It’s unusual for anything<br />
massive to open in Manhattan, which<br />
is what makes the flagship Nordstrom,<br />
which opened in October 2019 at 57 th &<br />
Broadway, particularly noteworthy. A<br />
behemoth spread over seven floors, it’s<br />
one of the first new stores of its size to<br />
open on the island since the 1920s. It’s<br />
home to a number of exclusives worth<br />
splashing your dollars on, including the<br />
Nordstrom x Nike trainer boutique (it's<br />
where I found the Air Force 1 Metallic<br />
Sneakers of my dreams). You can put<br />
your own stamp on anything you buy,<br />
with tailoring or monogramming,<br />
thanks to the in-store Personalization<br />
Studio. The beauty floor is dangerously<br />
good, with clever solutions for busy<br />
New Yorkers, including the FaceGym<br />
where you can give your face a workout<br />
with moves designed to lift, sculpt tone<br />
and tighten, and the Drybar that turns<br />
a messy mane into a head of glorious<br />
locks without a drop of water in sight.<br />
This page: The Statue<br />
of Liberty stands proud<br />
Opposite: A snapshot of<br />
The High Line<br />
‘<br />
PEERING<br />
OUT FROM<br />
UNDERNEATH<br />
MY UMBRELLA,<br />
I SPOTTED<br />
ROBERT<br />
INDIANA'S LOVE<br />
SCULPTURES ON<br />
THE HIGH LINE<br />
’<br />
Perhaps it was because my room at<br />
The Langham was like a little apartment<br />
(indeed, a large apartment by New<br />
York standards), my unfettered view<br />
of the Chrysler Building from my<br />
supersized tub, and being swept away<br />
in a whirlwind of room service and<br />
butter-soft bedding. Or perhaps it was<br />
the fact that I didn't suffer an ounce<br />
of jet lag thanks to being horizontal<br />
for practically the entire flight thanks<br />
to Saudia’s Business Class beds, but<br />
I'd taken to New York like a mandarin<br />
duck to Central Park pond. And while<br />
I’d packed a lot into my five-day stay, I<br />
learned that even if you're a seasoned<br />
visitor, there are always new ways to<br />
discover the city that never sleeps.<br />
We flew with Saudia and stayed at The<br />
Langham, New York, Fifth Avenue.<br />
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />
800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com<br />
42 worldtravellermagazine.com
XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 43
Coconut palms sway along<br />
the shore in Porto Alegre<br />
Into the<br />
Unknown<br />
Soft-sand beaches, zingy African flavours – and yet the<br />
delicious little islands of São Tomé and Príncipe are still<br />
almost empty. Fill your boots, says Stanley Stewart<br />
44 worldtravellermagazine.com
SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE<br />
ometime past midnight,<br />
with little but starlight to<br />
guide us, we crept along<br />
the sands of Praia Grande<br />
in search of a miracle.<br />
‘We have several every<br />
night,’ our guide was<br />
saying. ‘Many have<br />
come thousands of<br />
kilometres to get to this<br />
beach, some from the<br />
other side of the Atlantic.’<br />
Somewhere behind the<br />
line of waves we found a green<br />
turtle. She had created a nest by digging<br />
a hollow in the sand and laid a cache of<br />
eggs like a collection of white marbles.<br />
Now she was trying to hide them, her<br />
back flippers slowly flicking sand. She<br />
seemed exhausted, and must have felt<br />
clumsy and heavy on this beach. She<br />
worked in fits and starts, pausing after<br />
each exertion to catch her breath, until<br />
the eggs began to disappear. The guide<br />
located a tracking tag and checked the<br />
details. She was over 100 years old,<br />
born when men were still dying in the<br />
trenches of the First <strong>World</strong> War.<br />
The long peregrinations, the return<br />
to their place of birth, the danger, the<br />
courage… The whole sea-turtle story<br />
was what had brought me here. It<br />
appealed to my romantic instincts. For<br />
millions of years, they were the chief<br />
visitors to São Tomé and Príncipe,<br />
two small islands roughly 150km<br />
apart, lying in the Gulf of Guinea,<br />
320km off the coast of West Africa.<br />
The lush, verdant islands were a<br />
terrestrial paradise – an Eden without<br />
Adam and Eve to mess things up. No<br />
one lived here until colonialisation<br />
began in 1470, when the islands<br />
became an outpost of that creakiest<br />
of enterprises, the Portuguese empire<br />
– powered by the sweat of slaves<br />
imported from the African mainland.<br />
They may be two small outcrops in the<br />
mid-Atlantic that few people have heard<br />
of – yet, sure enough, with their gorgeous<br />
natural assets, São Tomé and Príncipe<br />
have begun attracting barefoot-in-thesand<br />
paradise-seekers in recent times,<br />
the kind of escapees who’ve fallen for<br />
Thailand and Goa in the past, but now<br />
fancy a couple of weeks of tropical R&R<br />
untainted by burger bars, nightclubs and<br />
suave-mixologist-dominated hangouts.<br />
And all without stinting on stylish, comfy,<br />
world-class places to rest their heads.<br />
São Tomé and Príncipe have beaches<br />
that would impress a Brazilian; dance<br />
steps (the kizomba, the tarrachinha) that<br />
would make a Cuban blush; vegetation<br />
more riotous than the Amazon’s; the<br />
world’s best chocolate; and a fascinating<br />
bird – sadly only seen by a handful of<br />
people and known by locals as a goo-goo,<br />
which apparently eats eggs and poos gold.<br />
Oh, and did I mention the sprinkling<br />
of elegant boutique-y hideaways?<br />
In São Tomé they say ‘Léve-léve’ –<br />
literally ‘Softly-softly’, in the sense of ‘Take<br />
it easy’. It makes sense. Disembarking<br />
in São Tomé, I was soon immersed in a<br />
leisurely swirl of life: mothers carried<br />
50kg of bananas on their heads and babies<br />
on their backs, ‘commuters’ pushed<br />
bicycles uphill with fish hanging from<br />
the crossbar. Dogs slept in the middle<br />
of the road. Goats jaywalked. But this<br />
stopover was merely a taster – it was<br />
Príncipe that delivered me to heaven.<br />
All it took was a half-hour onward<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 45
SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE<br />
flight by propeller plane. In Príncipe<br />
they say ‘Móli-móli’ – advice for people<br />
who find ‘Léve-léve’ just that little bit<br />
too rushed. Unsurprisingly, I was soon<br />
drowsing in a haven of hammocks and<br />
tropical plants, empty beaches and<br />
islanders living in rural tranquillity.<br />
I checked in at Roça Sundy, an old<br />
plantation house reworked as a boutique<br />
hotel of high-ceilinged rooms, fourposter<br />
beds and polished floorboards,<br />
where I slipped effortlessly into a less<br />
brutal version of the colonial lifestyle.<br />
By the first evening I had established<br />
something of a routine: sipping<br />
rum Daiquiris on the terrace and<br />
dining alone in candlelit splendour,<br />
as if I were a hill-station planter.<br />
Roças, as these plantation houses are<br />
known, fell into disrepair after 1975, when<br />
the Portuguese realised their empire was<br />
well past its sell-by date, and packed up<br />
and left, taking everything moveable,<br />
including all the country’s currency.<br />
Today, across the northern half of the<br />
island, the properties stand largely as<br />
overgrown monuments, riddled with dry<br />
rot and ghosts. But there are impressive<br />
restorations, such as Roça Sundy, a ruin<br />
saved and made beautiful by a wealthy<br />
South African, Mark Shuttleworth, who<br />
spent a week aboard the International<br />
Space Station in 2002. On Príncipe<br />
they call him the Man on the Moon.<br />
For me, Sundy’s seductions went<br />
far beyond the Daiquiris. Parts of the<br />
roça are still inhabited by Príncipean<br />
families, and the terreiro – the long<br />
central grassy courtyard around which<br />
the old plantation buildings were set –<br />
was as lively as an Italian piazza in the<br />
hour of the passeggiata. For a couple of<br />
days I was content to do nothing more<br />
than watch children chase footballs,<br />
twirl skipping ropes and scatter<br />
chickens. Toddlers clambered over a<br />
defunct steam engine. While men idled<br />
on benches, women bathed children,<br />
carried firewood, fetched water, cooked<br />
lunch, weeded gardens, planted corn<br />
and generally kept the world turning.<br />
Before long I fell in with Manu, a warm<br />
and energetic sexagenarian, who farmed<br />
pineapples on the slopes beneath his<br />
house. His wife brought us coffee and a<br />
plate of finger bananas. He grew expansive<br />
about the old days under the Portuguese,<br />
veering between praise for the economic<br />
‘<br />
I PICNICKED ON EMPTY BEACHES.<br />
I TOOK MINI VOYAGES TO REMOTE<br />
PENINSULAS JUST TO LAZE AND<br />
LISTEN TO BIRDSONG<br />
’<br />
activity, the enterprise of the roças as well<br />
as the oppression of the colonial system.<br />
He was soon on his feet, telling stories full<br />
of theatrical flourish. He was entertaining,<br />
certainly, but the tales he told contained<br />
genuine trauma. He was exorcising<br />
ghosts. Reducing the stories to anecdotes<br />
was his way of coping with a painful past.<br />
His wife returned with a plate of<br />
pineapple slices. ‘We must live for today,’<br />
he exclaimed, throwing his hands up.<br />
‘We have the sun, the sea, this beautiful<br />
island.’ He leant forward conspiratorially:<br />
‘And I have the best pineapples on<br />
Príncipe.’ He was right, although I suspect<br />
his wife was responsible for them.<br />
As móli-móli as I could, on Sunday<br />
morning I set off to explore, following<br />
red-earth roads through exuberant<br />
jungle. I went to church in the toy-town<br />
capital, Santo António, and found myself<br />
in a swaying chorus line of heavenly<br />
backing singers as dogs wandered in to<br />
have a snooze beneath the high altar.<br />
At Praia Abade it was the villagers who<br />
were snoozing in hammocks, while the<br />
children, glossy as seals, somersaulted<br />
into the waves. One man woke to say<br />
hello. Luis was an émigré from São Tomé.<br />
He stretched his arms to encompass<br />
the long beach with the fishing boats<br />
drawn up, the leaning palm trees and the<br />
wide, blue bay. ‘You know why I stay?’ he<br />
asked. ‘Because time stands still here.’<br />
To say tourism is in its infancy is an<br />
understatement. In a week I saw only<br />
20 other visitors. I picnicked on empty<br />
beaches. I took mini voyages to remote<br />
peninsulas just to laze and listen to<br />
birdsong. I was usually delivered to shore<br />
by Luis, who turned out to be just one of<br />
a bunch of beautiful characters happy to<br />
be earning a living helping visitors. There<br />
was João the driver, Miguel, the maitre<br />
d’, Alexander, the ubiquitous barman.<br />
And then there was lovely Leandro…<br />
I found Leandro one afternoon<br />
having ventured out to Roça Paciência,<br />
a plantation abandoned decades ago.<br />
In one of its empty storerooms he was<br />
weaving basket lampshades for the<br />
resorts, his bony hands looping the reed<br />
in and out of the struts. From time to<br />
time, he took a break to smoke his way<br />
through the dictionary. ‘Do you know<br />
we are at the centre of the world?’ he<br />
asked, tearing another page from his<br />
old book to roll a cigarette. Through the<br />
doorway I could see glamorous birds<br />
with long, silky tails swooping across<br />
46 worldtravellermagazine.com
Opposite: Red sky at night at Porto<br />
Alegre This page, clockwise from<br />
top: A vibrant parrotfish pauses by<br />
the coral reef; a fishing canoe rests<br />
at Lagoa Azul; juicy pineapples<br />
grow on the island<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 47
the old plantation lawns. The sound of<br />
the Atlantic pounding on the pristine<br />
beach drifted our way through the trees.<br />
‘People say we are far away, that this<br />
is a remote place,’ he told me as we<br />
talked. ‘But this island is the closest<br />
land to where the equator meets zero<br />
degrees longitude. This is the centre.<br />
It is everyone else who is far away.’<br />
The old plantations occupy the<br />
northern half of Príncipe. The southern<br />
half (the whole island is barely 30km long)<br />
is virgin forest. To islanders it is as remote<br />
as Outer Mongolia. To me, it felt like a lost<br />
world halfway between Tolkien’s Middle<br />
Earth and Gauguin’s South Sea paradise.<br />
Volcanic towers – spectacular basalt<br />
phonolites – thrust their way through the<br />
jungle canopy, rising hundreds of metres<br />
above the treetops. Flat-topped mesas<br />
and mountains dominate the skyline.<br />
I took a boat to this outback, flying<br />
fish darting beneath the bows, and went<br />
ashore to trek along jungle trails, keeping<br />
an eye out for the elusive goo-goo. The<br />
astonishing birdlife (there are 28 species<br />
on Príncipe) was as tame as in the<br />
Galápagos, lending a strange, dreamlike<br />
quality. A kingfisher perched a mere<br />
metre away, cocking its head to get a good<br />
look at me. Finches gathered about me,<br />
settling on nearby branches. A golden<br />
weaver alighted near my elbow, a piece of<br />
grass in its beak, ready to slot into its nest.<br />
I donned a mask and snorkel and the<br />
dream continued. With warm currents<br />
and excellent visibility, Príncipe’s seas<br />
are as pristine and as little explored as<br />
the land. An expedition here in 2006<br />
discovered 60 new fish, including 10<br />
from completely unknown species. I<br />
gazed down at nurse sharks 2.5 metres<br />
long, hovering over beds of sea grass<br />
in aqueous light. I watched silvery<br />
barracuda, stationary with the merest<br />
flick of their tails. Beyond a reef of pale<br />
rock, I spotted a spectacular Atlantic<br />
sailfish, its huge dorsal fin hoisted to<br />
the currents. With a turn of my head,<br />
I saw colourful parrotfish grazing on<br />
algae, bloated pufferfish comically<br />
struggling to keep themselves upright in<br />
the wash above the reefs, and shoals of<br />
yellowtail sardinella, wheeling this way<br />
and that like well-drilled regiments.<br />
And finally, in Mosteiros Bay, I found<br />
‘<br />
TO SAY TOURISM IS IN ITS INFANCY<br />
IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. IN A WEEK<br />
I SAW ONLY 20 OTHER VISITORS<br />
’<br />
the sea turtles, swimming earnestly<br />
towards their birthplaces, their little<br />
startled faces gazing up at me through<br />
shafts of refracted light. On these<br />
islands, turtles are creatures of legend<br />
and myth. They are seen as heroic,<br />
symbols of loyalty and determination. On<br />
Príncipe people speak of someone with<br />
courage as having the heart of a turtle.<br />
On that beach at Praia Grande, just<br />
after midnight, the heroism was evident.<br />
Having covered her eggs, my green turtle<br />
began the trek back to the ocean. It wasn’t<br />
that far unless you were an exhausted<br />
110kg turtle trying to walk on flippers after<br />
a 1,500km swim having just produced 100<br />
eggs. It took her half an hour, levering<br />
herself forward a pace at a time, pausing<br />
to recoup her strength. I spent a couple<br />
of hours at Praia Grande with a guide<br />
from Marapa, a marine-conservation<br />
charity protecting the nesting sites. Half<br />
a dozen turtles were laying their eggs<br />
that night, after making the epic trip up<br />
the beach. The largest was a leatherback<br />
probably two metres across. Its offspring,<br />
hatching weeks later, would need that<br />
turtle heart. Not many would even make<br />
it to the ocean; fewer than 1% would live<br />
to maturity. But those that did would<br />
eventually return to this same beach<br />
on São Tomé and Príncipe: paradise<br />
found – for all discerning travellers.<br />
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />
800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com<br />
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing<br />
48 worldtravellermagazine.com
SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE<br />
This page: Soft,<br />
colourful corals around<br />
Lizard Island<br />
Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing<br />
Opposite: A harvest<br />
of cocoa pods<br />
This page: An aerial view of<br />
a paradisiacal beach cove<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 49
Snow falls on the gassho-zukuri<br />
farmhouses in the historic village of<br />
Ogimachi in Shirakawa-gō<br />
50 worldtravellermagazine.com
JAPAN<br />
Winter in Japan can be harsh, but, thanks to the country’s heated<br />
onsen baths, piping hot noodle bowls and intimate restaurants, the<br />
freeze also offers the ultimate chance to get cosy. Alicia Miller wraps<br />
up and explores the snowy spectacle<br />
can no longer feel my<br />
toes. That’s all I can think,<br />
crunching down the narrow,<br />
icy path, past tall pine trees,<br />
needles laden with snow,<br />
along perilous, frigid cliffs. Suddenly<br />
– finally – I reach my destination:<br />
Jigokudani, or Hell’s Valley. The name<br />
suits. Amid the dunes of fresh white that<br />
carpet this frozen forest, hot streams<br />
ripple, glassy pools shift and scorching<br />
waters lap smooth boulders clean. I’ve<br />
reached an onsen, a Japanese hot spring.<br />
It’s miles from anywhere – and yet far<br />
from secret. Before me, bodies teem. They<br />
slip in and out of the waters, stroking<br />
and fluffing hair, rubbing pink faces.<br />
The light is fading, I’m numb from head<br />
to toe and nothing would be nicer than<br />
joining them in the steaming pools.<br />
But it wouldn’t be right, bathing in this<br />
onsen. Because I’m not a snow monkey.<br />
Snow monkeys are an only-in-Japan<br />
sight. Or, more specifically, an only-in-<br />
Japan winter sight. Officially known as<br />
Japanese macaques, they’re so-nicknamed<br />
because when powder blankets the<br />
ground, they descend in droves from<br />
their remote mountain habitats for<br />
thawing dips in hot springs, famously at<br />
Jigokudani, a dedicated conservation park<br />
outside Nagano. If you’re lucky, you might<br />
spot a handful in spring or autumn, but<br />
they really come into their own when the<br />
weather turns frosty. As do belly-warming<br />
bowls of ramen noodle soup, pretty Alpine<br />
towns and, of course, onsen itself. Most<br />
travellers flock to Japan for spring cherry<br />
blossom, or in sultry summer, or to see<br />
autumn leaves turn – but they don’t know<br />
what they’re missing. December to March<br />
is the quietest and cheapest time to visit,<br />
but winter here has so much more to offer<br />
besides. This is when the thick clouds<br />
that cloak Mount Fuji finally melt away,<br />
revealing its cinematic snowcap against a<br />
crisp blue sky. It’s when Tokyoites huddle<br />
in squeezy, smoky bars, stamping their<br />
feet and slurping rich oden fish stews to<br />
shake off damp evenings. And it’s when,<br />
high in the craggy peaks of the Japanese<br />
Alps, a few hours northwest from the<br />
capital, and also in Hokkaido, Japan’s<br />
northern most island, blankets of thick,<br />
powdery snow bring everything to silence<br />
and stillness. Under the veil of white,<br />
landscapes achieve postcard-perfection –<br />
like real-life Hokusai prints – and it’s as if<br />
nothing has changed here for centuries.<br />
In the most picturesque, snowy parts<br />
it’s icy – minus points on the mercury,<br />
maybe in double digits – but no matter:<br />
the Japanese know how to handle a<br />
freeze. More than that: in the most frigid<br />
of its regions, they actually appreciate<br />
the chill – knowing that without<br />
cold, there’s no such thing as cosy.<br />
The air was crisp when I touched down<br />
in the Japanese capital two days before<br />
meeting those monkeys. I was a Tokyo<br />
veteran and fell into its frenetic, neon<br />
embrace as one falls into the arms of<br />
an old friend. It was rainy and 48 hours<br />
was just enough to get my fix, visiting<br />
the parts I’d loved as a resident: the<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 51
JAPAN<br />
crushing intersection at Shibuya and<br />
the soaring Tokyo Skytree tower. It was<br />
just as well, as that time was all I had<br />
– after all, I wasn’t here for drizzle, but<br />
for a taste of the real Japanese winter.<br />
My journey northwest traversed a<br />
dramatic shift in climate. The bullet<br />
train rolled out of Tokyo Station 7.52am<br />
precisely, under a grey haze, and sped<br />
through boxy suburbs that melted into<br />
open, flurry-brushed fields. Tokyo had<br />
been heavy-sweater weather; when I<br />
stepped out to change to a bus at Nagano<br />
an hour and a half later, snowflakes<br />
were dancing in the air. By the time I<br />
hit Jigokudani in early afternoon, I had<br />
ascended more than 800 metres and<br />
the ground was covered in white drifts.<br />
Comic-book icicles clung to stout old<br />
homes by the park-entrance gate. It was<br />
a half-hour trudge along that slippery,<br />
alabaster path to the monkeys. It was<br />
cold, but I felt a warm glow the moment<br />
I saw those adorable, fluffy critters<br />
dart excitedly into their onsen baths.<br />
Onsen, if you didn’t know, is actually a<br />
Japanese ritual for humans. Foreigners<br />
can get nervous about the complex<br />
‘<br />
ON MY LAST<br />
DAY, I SPENT THE<br />
AFTERNOON IN<br />
THE PARK. NOT<br />
WANDERING, BUT<br />
CROSS-COUNTRY<br />
SKIING<br />
’<br />
etiquette – and the awkward nudity (hot<br />
springs are entered strictly in the buff,<br />
men and women segregated). But try an<br />
alfresco dip in winter and you’ll be forever<br />
converted: frosty air cooling your neck,<br />
coddling, mineral-rich water soothing<br />
your limbs – the chance to savour nature’s<br />
stimulating contrasts at their best.<br />
Stepping into the warm outdoor hot<br />
spring at Hotakaso Sangetsu ryokan was<br />
like getting a big hug. A bus had whisked<br />
me here along icing-sugar roads from<br />
Nagano to remote Hirayu Onsen town,<br />
from which a silent taxi driver ferried me<br />
up into the hills. Once in the still, steamcloaked<br />
waters, with no other company<br />
but a couple of whispering, wrinkly<br />
old ladies, I knew the journey had been<br />
worth it. Beyond my rock-studded pool<br />
was a panorama of trees and a crinkle<br />
of whitecapped mountain ranges: the<br />
Japanese Alps. These folds of icy rock, a<br />
seam 200km long and higher than 3,000<br />
metres in places, hold many treasures.<br />
When I finally emerged from the onsen,<br />
pink as a peach, I pulled on my yukata<br />
robe and slippers and made for my<br />
tatami-mat-lined bedroom. Before long,<br />
a knock at my door revealed a smiling<br />
woman with a heaving tray. I ushered<br />
her in, where she laid an elaborate<br />
private banquet on a low table: sashimi<br />
platters; pickles; marbled red beef for<br />
a DIY hotpot; a flame-licked vessel of<br />
slow-cooking mushroom rice. Settling<br />
onto a cushion on the tatami mat floor,<br />
I surveyed the feast before me, letting<br />
her carefully explain each dish (in mime<br />
– her English wasn’t great, my Japanese<br />
worse). Then she bowed and shuffled<br />
out the door, leaving me to devour my<br />
gourmet meal in serenity (and, even<br />
better, still in the comfort of my robe).<br />
52 worldtravellermagazine.com
Opposite: Large<br />
snowflakes fall in<br />
busy Shibuya<br />
This page: A mother<br />
snow monkey<br />
cuddles her baby<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 53
JAPAN<br />
‘<br />
MOST TRAVELLERS FLOCK TO JAPAN<br />
FOR SPRING CHERRY BLOSSOM, OR TO<br />
SEE AUTUMN LEAVES TURN – BUT THEY<br />
DON’T KNOW WHAT THEY’RE MISSING<br />
’<br />
While Japan nails the whole cosy-winterhibernation<br />
thing, I didn’t want to<br />
spend my entire trip holed up. I filled<br />
the following days exploring the Alps:<br />
Takayama, one of country’s prettiest<br />
towns, its creaky wooden buildings<br />
housing atmospheric teahouses and<br />
fragrant saké breweries; Ogimachi,<br />
peppered with ancient gassho-zukuri<br />
farmhouses – pointy, snow-strong<br />
structures that look transplanted from<br />
Switzerland. Then Matsumoto, with<br />
its grand old castle and artisan soba<br />
noodle shops. The time flew by in a<br />
flurry of snowflakes and soon it was<br />
time to make for Hokkaido, Japan’s<br />
northerly isle, a 90-minute flight away.<br />
I hoped it would be the perfect wintry<br />
(snowcapped) peak to my trip.<br />
If I thought it was cold in Jigokudani,<br />
I hadn’t felt anything yet. Stepping<br />
out into the city centre in Sapporo,<br />
Hokkaido’s capital, I faced a new level<br />
of freeze – piercing, breath-snatching.<br />
Under a startling blue sky, long, straight<br />
boulevards radiated out from the<br />
central station, empty. Below ground,<br />
however, was a hive of activity: a web of<br />
interconnecting sub-surface walkways<br />
ferried scarf-wrapped workers and<br />
hooded shoppers across the city centre.<br />
They’d pop up from this underground<br />
city when they reached their desired<br />
stop, like dolphins breaching for air, and<br />
dart across windswept intersections<br />
into towering silver office blocks.<br />
Hardened to the chill, these locals may<br />
grit their teeth on the most blistering<br />
of days, but they rarely complain. If<br />
Tokyoites are like Londoners, whingeing<br />
over a light chill and shaking umbrellas<br />
through winter, Sapporo’s residents<br />
are stoic Scandinavians – brave in<br />
the face of this vast, great iciness.<br />
That evening, I wandered south from<br />
my hotel along the gritted streets to<br />
Suskino, Sapporo’s nightlife district.<br />
Tummy rumbling, I shivered past<br />
warren-like izakaya pubs and a lanternlit<br />
alleyway lined with tiny ramen<br />
shops, filled with laughing students<br />
lapping up miso-rich bowlfuls. I longed<br />
to enter a shop’s warming embrace,<br />
but held firm: on a tip from a Japanese<br />
friend, I was out for jingisukan – a DIY<br />
Mongolian BBQ, the city’s speciality.<br />
I found the restaurant – and the queue.<br />
It was below freezing outside and yet a<br />
row of brave faithfuls stood undeterred<br />
snaking down an icicle-lined alleyway<br />
outside cult-favourite Daruma. I joined<br />
them and minutes ticked by; gradually,<br />
I lost feeling in my limbs, from the<br />
ground up. But when the door finally<br />
opened on my turn, an hour later, I was<br />
rewarded for my persistence. Perched<br />
on stools around an oval wooden<br />
counter, chattering couples sipped<br />
drinks, while grilling marbled lamb<br />
on domed hotplates, fired by glowing<br />
charcoal. I squeezed in and ordered a<br />
cockle-warming feast, with a flourish of<br />
fluffy rice, kimchi and a sesame-garlic<br />
dipping sauce. As I griddled my hunks<br />
of lamb, fat dripped gorgeously down<br />
the grill to soften golden onions. By now,<br />
I’d forgotten all about the cold outside.<br />
Sapporo and its charms unveil<br />
themselves slowly, like a gradual<br />
spring thaw. You can spend a day out<br />
at frozen lake Shikotsu, enjoying its<br />
illuminated winter display; another<br />
soaking at a geyser-studded onsen in<br />
Noboribetsu town, a train ride away;<br />
yet another watching rare red-crowned<br />
cranes dance across fields of ice. Or<br />
simply keep to the city centre, walking<br />
through the fish market, stocked<br />
with lithe, prickly crabs; it’s a treat to<br />
dine on the sweet, perfectly in-season<br />
meat in any no-frills restaurant.<br />
Japanese tourists flock to the city in early<br />
February. Some ogle the towering ski<br />
jump, a remnant of the 1972 Olympics;<br />
most sip frothy brews at the rambling<br />
Sapporo brewery. But all are here to<br />
watch artists from around the world<br />
chisel vast ice sculptures, competing<br />
for glory in the annual, city-wide Snow<br />
Festival, the biggest and busiest event of<br />
the year. On my trip, it hadn’t officially<br />
started yet, but even the largest of<br />
scaffolds couldn’t hide the elaborate<br />
masterpieces taking shape in Sapporo’s<br />
central Odori strip. Elaborate lifesized<br />
temples, enormous carvings of<br />
horse-racers and panoramas of J-pop<br />
stars all rose proud in the icy mix.<br />
On my last day, I spent the afternoon<br />
in the park. Not wandering, as I might<br />
in spring or autumn – but cross-country<br />
skiing, past silvery larch trees, over<br />
gentle, hilly drifts. This being snow<br />
country, one can hire skis, sleds or even<br />
show-shoes at Moerenuma Park for<br />
three hours. I didn’t last quite that long:<br />
two hours in, my face was whipped by<br />
wind and my toes were unresponsive<br />
in my boots. After a couple of slippery<br />
falls, I felt the chilliest I’d been yet<br />
and needed to get out of the frosty<br />
air, fast. So, as dusk washed over the<br />
city, I hopped in a cab back to vibrant,<br />
raucous Suskino and took the lift up to<br />
the second-floor Nikka Bar, overlooking<br />
a humming traffic intersection.<br />
Cloaked in dark polished woods<br />
and rich leathers, the bar’s walls<br />
were lined with glimmering bottles.<br />
Socialising salarymen were cloistered<br />
in corners. I thumbed through the<br />
menu, before a suited barman poured<br />
my drink of choice as if it was liquid<br />
gold. Out the window, in the streets<br />
below, bundled-up commuters darted<br />
between tumbling snowflakes. Settling<br />
into my squishy chair, I felt my cheeks<br />
warming and my limbs thawing. Then,<br />
my drink appeared before me and I<br />
raised the glass to my lips, taking a<br />
long, slow sip. Rolling it across my<br />
tongue, I savoured its sharp heat – and<br />
the frosty hit of ice. Shiveringly good:<br />
the very essence of winter Japan.<br />
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />
800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com<br />
Credit: Alicia Miller/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing<br />
54 worldtravellermagazine.com
This page: Soft,<br />
colourful corals around<br />
Lizard Island<br />
Clockwise from above<br />
left: The icy path to<br />
hot spring haven Hell's<br />
Valley; a swan spreads<br />
its wings in front of<br />
Mount Fuji; Kyoto's<br />
historic Higashiyama<br />
district gets a dusting; a<br />
steaming bowl of ramen<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 55
long<br />
the<br />
weekend<br />
56 worldtravellermagazine.com<br />
Marrakech<br />
Offering a heady blend of<br />
culture and beauty, Marrakech<br />
is luring the in-crowd to its<br />
charming riads, bustling bazaars<br />
and must-see art attractions<br />
This page: Sunlight<br />
penetrates a labyrinthine<br />
souk in Marrakech<br />
Opposite: Aromatic spices<br />
for sale; Royal Mansour<br />
Marrakech
THE LONG WEEKEND<br />
Founded almost 1,000 years ago, Marrakech is one of the<br />
great cities of the Maghreb. Known as the Red City thanks to<br />
its red clay buildings that swarm the medina, it is easily one of<br />
the most beautiful and fascinating spots in Morocco. A place<br />
where Europe, Africa and the Middle East mingle and merge,<br />
this popular trading hub marries the past and present with an<br />
energy that can sometimes feel intimidating, but plan it right<br />
and you’re sure to have the trip of a lifetime.<br />
Home to atmospheric souks and some of the most<br />
impressive architecture (both old and new) that you’ll find<br />
anywhere in the world, nowadays this intoxicating city is<br />
prized as much for its trendy art galleries, hip hotels and<br />
fine-dining restaurants as it is for its bazaars and hidden<br />
palaces. It’s to the famous medina that most visitors gravitate,<br />
where your senses will be overwhelmed with music, the call<br />
to prayer and elaborate feasts. Dark alleyways are brimming<br />
with artisan workshops and sprawling markets in which you<br />
can wander for hours. Offering a tantalising taste of Africa<br />
within easy reach, get set to fall in love with Marrakech…<br />
Revel in a touch of glamour at these stand-out abodes<br />
If you’re seeking opulence,<br />
you've come to the right<br />
place. Home to 53 luxury<br />
riads, spread across a<br />
medina filled with alleyways<br />
and secret doors, Royal<br />
Mansour Marrakech<br />
provides a rich introduction<br />
to Moroccan culture. Be<br />
sure to dine at the new<br />
Sesamo Italian restaurant<br />
by the three-Michelin-Star<br />
chef Massimiliano Alajmo.<br />
One of the most<br />
spectacular residences<br />
in the city, the Mandarin<br />
Oriental, Marrakech is<br />
situated just 20 minutes<br />
from the city’s main square<br />
of Jemaa el-Fnaa, and<br />
with its stunning terracotta<br />
buildings nestled among<br />
palm, orange and olive<br />
trees, it’s the perfect mix of<br />
splendour and tradition.<br />
Once home to royalty,<br />
La Mamounia has been a<br />
preferred choice among<br />
A-listers through the<br />
decades and has hosted<br />
a glittering array of VIPs<br />
in its 210 rooms. Set in<br />
lavish gardens and styled<br />
with handcrafted Moorish<br />
opulence, this is the place<br />
to see and be seen.<br />
Those craving a cooler,<br />
more contemporary vibe<br />
should check out Radisson<br />
Blu Hotel, Marrakech Carré<br />
Eden, which called upon a<br />
chic and savvy Casablanca<br />
design studio to craft its<br />
laid-back, mid-century style.<br />
With a coveted address in<br />
Guéliz, the city’s hippest<br />
bars and restaurants are<br />
just a stone’s throw away.<br />
... and<br />
restful<br />
riads<br />
Charming, calming and<br />
every interior designer’s<br />
dream, Marrakech’s many<br />
riads offer welcome<br />
respite from the hustle<br />
and bustle of the city. A<br />
quiet oasis situated in<br />
the heart of the medina,<br />
LE RIAD YASMINE has<br />
an idyllic pool, which<br />
gets a lot of attention,<br />
but sipping a traditional<br />
Moroccan mint tea in the<br />
lounge is equally dreamy.<br />
One of Marrakech’s<br />
first boutique riads, EL<br />
FENN, which is owned by<br />
Vanessa Branson (sister<br />
to Richard), is a maze of<br />
interconnected riads that<br />
take up an acre of the<br />
medina. First launched<br />
to showcase Vanessa’s<br />
impressive art collection,<br />
the display is constantly<br />
re-curated so no two<br />
visits are ever the same.<br />
Over 200 years old,<br />
RIAD TCHAIKANA offers<br />
stunning views of the<br />
Atlas Mountains. With<br />
just five bedrooms, it gets<br />
booked up fast, so make<br />
sure you plan in advance.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 57
Wander<br />
the souks<br />
With their bustling<br />
atmosphere and thrilling<br />
bargains proving an<br />
assault on the senses, the<br />
souks of Marrakech are a<br />
highlight for any visitor.<br />
There’s always someone<br />
ready to greet you at<br />
these open-air venues,<br />
where artisans have been<br />
toiling over their creations<br />
for centuries.<br />
Traditional woven<br />
carpets, aromatic spices,<br />
colourful lanterns and<br />
pottery stalls can be<br />
found in abundance –<br />
tagine pots, serving plates<br />
and soup bowls come in<br />
all sizes, while jewelled<br />
glassware and ornate<br />
tea pots make a pretty<br />
addition to any dining<br />
room back home.<br />
Originally dedicated<br />
to leatherwork, Souq<br />
Semmarine and Souq<br />
el-Kebir are the most<br />
popular street markets<br />
in the city, and today sell<br />
practically anything you<br />
can think of. Prices here<br />
may be higher than in<br />
other bazaars, however,<br />
so if you're willing to travel<br />
a little bit further north<br />
to where the specialist<br />
quissariat (covered<br />
markets) are located, you<br />
may be able to find similar<br />
products for less.<br />
HAUTE CUISINE<br />
On top of its famous street food scene, the city<br />
has made some serious strides into fine dining<br />
Le Petit Cornichon<br />
Owned by Erwann Lance,<br />
who has several Michelinstarred<br />
restaurants in<br />
Paris and New York,<br />
Le Petit Cornichon is<br />
stylish, contemporary<br />
and colourful, so it’s no<br />
surprise that the style set<br />
gather here. Tuck into<br />
dishes such as sea bass<br />
ceviche with grapefruit<br />
and pink peppercorns<br />
of tarragon chicken.<br />
lepetitcornichon.ma<br />
+61<br />
Bringing a taste of<br />
Australia to Morocco,<br />
chef Andrew Cibej aims<br />
to capture the laid-back<br />
culture of the country<br />
with a modern twist,<br />
by way of delicious<br />
dishes designed to<br />
share. Favourites include<br />
homemade ricotta with<br />
roasted red peppers,<br />
balsamic-glazed lamb<br />
ribs and chargrilled sirloin<br />
sandwiches. plus61.com<br />
LOCAL DELICACIES<br />
Le Crystal<br />
Located in the Pacha<br />
complex, which is also<br />
home to the famous Ibiza<br />
nightclub of the same<br />
name, those seeking a<br />
touch of glamour should<br />
definitely pay Le Crystal<br />
a visit. A Moroccan Italian<br />
menu comprises the likes<br />
of shrimp risotto, garlic<br />
parmesan gnocci and<br />
foie gras ravioli that are<br />
definitely worth the price<br />
tag. pachamarrakech.com<br />
Craving a taste of authentic Moroccan cuisine? Marrakech is sure to awaken the senses<br />
through traditional flavours influenced by Spain, Arabia and France, and the streets are<br />
teeming with these wallet-friendly eateries. Dedicated to empowering disadvantaged<br />
women through culinary skills, guests can enjoy an ever-changing menu of local dishes<br />
at Amal Women’s Moroccan Restaurant. For stunning views to accompany your meal,<br />
Al Baraka, in the heart of the legendary Jemaa el-Fnaa, does some of the best couscous<br />
in the city. Taste light and simple Moroccan fare at the magical Dar Marjana while the<br />
belly dancers sway – if you’re feeling adventurous, try the pigeon pie.<br />
58 worldtravellermagazine.com
THE LONG WEEKEND<br />
Opposite from top:<br />
Le Petit Cornichon; vibrant claypots in<br />
the bazaar<br />
This page from top: V.Barkowski<br />
(Photo: Cecile Zehnacker); inside the<br />
beautiful Bahia Palace<br />
Boutique finds<br />
If it’s one-of-a-kind pieces you’re after, Marrakech<br />
isn’t short on stylish boutiques that are as unique<br />
in interior design as they are in merchandise.<br />
Globetrotting Belgian designer Valerie<br />
Barkowski’s concept store V. Barkowski is<br />
reminiscent of a high-end New York loft that<br />
showcases her fine white bed linens and fluffy<br />
towels that come delicately trimmed with her<br />
signature mini pompoms, while Norya Ayron sells<br />
an array of fashion-forward silk and cotton kaftans<br />
and abayas loved by the likes of Sharon Stone,<br />
Monica Belluci and Kate Moss. For medina-style<br />
streetwear, head to Max & Jan for a selection of<br />
soft drape dresses, slouchy pants and billowing<br />
dresses perfect for a summer beach holiday,<br />
while at Laly, browse the rails for bold capes,<br />
camo babouche slippers and pochette purses by<br />
designer Badra Benjelloun.<br />
Words: Naomi Chadderton<br />
Ask a local<br />
Amanda Ponzio-<br />
Mouttaki, blogger<br />
at Maroc Mama<br />
(marocmama.<br />
com), shares her<br />
insider tips on how<br />
to get the most<br />
out of your trip<br />
“The best advice I can share<br />
about visiting Marrakech is to<br />
have a sense of humour and accept that<br />
you will get lost in the medina.<br />
I've found when you can be lighthearted<br />
and laugh with people it really breaks<br />
the ice and you’ll end up having a much<br />
more pleasant experience. One of my<br />
favourite neighbourhoods is the kasbah,<br />
because it still has the older charm of<br />
traditional Marrakech without some<br />
of the extreme busyness you might<br />
experience in other areas. Be sure to try<br />
tangia (not to be confused with tagine)<br />
when you’re here; it’s the speciality<br />
dish of Marrakech made with very slow<br />
roasted lamb, garlic and preserved<br />
lemons in a clay pot. If you want a<br />
keepsake to take back home, spices or<br />
Moroccan tea glasses are easy to pack<br />
and are sure to be used long after<br />
you return.”<br />
CULTURE CRAM<br />
Delve deeper into the<br />
city's beating heart<br />
Marrakech has a<br />
fascinating and<br />
complex history, with<br />
an impressive array of<br />
museums and sites to<br />
prove it. Take a walk<br />
around the Saadian<br />
Tombs – Saadian<br />
Sultan Ahmed Al<br />
Mansour Ed Dahbi<br />
spared no expense<br />
in crafting his burial<br />
site, importing Italian<br />
Carrara marble for his<br />
own mausoleum. A<br />
fascinating piece of<br />
Marrakech’s historical<br />
jigsaw, El Badi Palace<br />
is another great<br />
attraction and even<br />
though it largely<br />
stands in ruins today,<br />
you won’t have any<br />
trouble taking a<br />
journey back in time<br />
and imagining the<br />
splendour of the<br />
palace’s heyday. In<br />
complete contrast is<br />
the well-preserved<br />
Bahia Palace, which<br />
once housed the<br />
Resident General<br />
during the French<br />
Protectorate.<br />
If you’re a fashion<br />
lover, make time<br />
to visit the Musée<br />
Yves Saint Laurent<br />
Marrakech.<br />
Dedicated to the late<br />
designer’s work, it<br />
showcases a rotating<br />
curation of 5,000<br />
items of clothing,<br />
15,000 accessories<br />
and thousands<br />
of sketches and<br />
documents stored<br />
for four decades.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 59
WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL<br />
STAYCATION<br />
Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel<br />
Holiday like royalty at this quintessentially British beachfront hotel on Palm Jumeirah<br />
THE ROOMS & SUITES<br />
Tucked away in the modern heart of<br />
the city, yet shielded from the hustle<br />
and bustle, the hotel's modern take on<br />
a traditional British residence is sure<br />
to win you over. Every room has been<br />
elegantly styled to marry centuries<br />
of age-old charm with contemporary<br />
glamour. Request a room with glittering<br />
Arabian Sea views and relax to the sound<br />
of the waves lapping the shore.<br />
THE FOOD<br />
What better way to show someone you<br />
care than with a romantic candlelit<br />
dinner on the beach? Savour a threecourse<br />
meal and a bottle of red or white<br />
under the twinkling stars as the balmy<br />
evening breeze washes over you (Dhs1,000<br />
per couple). Elsewhere at the property,<br />
Great British Restarant, West 14 th<br />
Steakhouse, Khyber and the sophisticated<br />
Duke's Bar compete for your attention.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
Start the new year as you mean to go on<br />
with an energy-boosting workout at the<br />
hotel's state-of-the-art gym. Next, get<br />
some vitamin D by soaking up the gentle<br />
winter rays as you lounge around the<br />
infinity pool with a good book in hand.<br />
Once you're suitably sunbathed, stretch<br />
your legs by taking a stroll along the<br />
private beach and end your day on a fun<br />
note by floating along the lazy river.<br />
To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit royalhideaway.com<br />
60 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X SOFITEL DUBAI THE PALM<br />
STAYCATION<br />
Sofitel Dubai The Palm<br />
Perfect the art de vivre at this French-inspired luxury resort on Palm Jumeirah<br />
THE ROOMS & SUITES<br />
Bringing elegant French style to the<br />
Middle East, this Polynesian-style<br />
resort is the antidote to the city’s<br />
ubiquitous skyscraper hotels with its<br />
tropical understated glamour. Being<br />
a pebble’s skim from the sea means<br />
you get to sleep and wake up to the<br />
gentle swoosh of the waves crashing<br />
on the shore from any of the stylishly<br />
appointed rooms and suites.<br />
THE FOOD<br />
Meaning "Welcome" in Polynesian,<br />
Manava serves up world-class dishes in<br />
a setting straight out of Paul Gaugin's<br />
Tahitian paintings. But if you're up for<br />
something with more zest and spice,<br />
Hong Loong blends timeless Chinese<br />
recipes to create explosive flavours<br />
perfectly paired with tea. End your<br />
evening soaking up the sea view with a<br />
chilled drink at Laguna Lounge.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
Water babies are in for a treat with a great<br />
variety of activities on offer. Whether it's<br />
jetting off on a boat excursion, spending<br />
a day admiring the cityscape on a pedal<br />
boat or just lounging on the wide stretch<br />
of private sandy beach, there's something<br />
for every taste. A day in the sun might<br />
wear you down, but a quick trip to the spa<br />
offers soothing treatments and massages<br />
that'll leave you in a tranquil bliss.<br />
To find out more, call +971 4 455 6677 or visit all.accor.com<br />
62 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI<br />
STAYCATION<br />
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai<br />
Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel<br />
THE ROOMS & SUITES<br />
Wake up in the clouds and revel in<br />
stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the<br />
city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise<br />
waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites<br />
boast marshmallow soft beddings<br />
and soundproof windows for a serene<br />
slumber, while Executive Rooms come<br />
with perks including complimentary<br />
drinks, a continental breakfast and<br />
afternoon tea in the lounge.<br />
THE FOOD<br />
Foodies are spoilt for choice with<br />
more than 14 dining venues offering a<br />
selection of delicacies from around the<br />
world. Splurge on a unique sky-high<br />
dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before<br />
heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault.<br />
To spice it up, the recently opened<br />
Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves<br />
traditional recipes from ancient India<br />
with a contemporary twist.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
Discover the shiniest gems the city has<br />
to offer with top attractions including<br />
The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai<br />
Opera right around the corner. After a<br />
day out and about, pamper yourself back<br />
at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray<br />
Spa. Soothing body massages, bespoke<br />
facials and holistic rituals draw upon<br />
the spa's Arabian heritage for a top-totoe<br />
rejuvenating experience.<br />
To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />
64 worldtravellermagazine.com
Inspiration. Expertly crafted.<br />
Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the<br />
Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience.<br />
The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants<br />
and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and<br />
17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular<br />
Meeting Spaces.<br />
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai<br />
jwmarriott.com/DXBJW<br />
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com
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worldtravellermagazine.com 67
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68 worldtravellermagazine.com
THROUGH<br />
THE LENS<br />
Lago di Braies,<br />
Italy<br />
"Visiting this majestic lake had<br />
been on my bucket list for years<br />
since I first stumbled upon a photo<br />
story in a magazine proclaiming<br />
it one of Italy's most beautiful<br />
lakes. Two flights and a threehour<br />
drive later, I finally arrived<br />
at the Dolomites, a UNESCO<br />
<strong>World</strong> Heritage Site. As soon as I<br />
caught sight of the bright emerald<br />
green waters, I was in awe of their<br />
breathtaking beauty. In the early<br />
light, the sight of the reflection of<br />
the mountains on the lake and the<br />
charming wooden rowing boats<br />
was like a fairy tale."<br />
Travel and photography<br />
fan Melissa Ngo loves to<br />
travel because: "it grounds<br />
me and keeps me humble."<br />
Follow her at @helloomelissa,<br />
withlovemelissa.blog<br />
EMAIL US YOUR BEST<br />
TRAVEL PHOTOS<br />
in high-res jpeg format, along<br />
with the stories behind them to<br />
habiba@hotmedia.me and you<br />
may end up being featured<br />
on this page<br />
70 worldtravellermagazine.com
Now win!<br />
DIGITAL<br />
BE OUR TRAVEL<br />
COMPANION<br />
Stay up-to-date with all that’s<br />
happening on our social channels<br />
and join in the conversation by<br />
sharing your experiences. Here’s<br />
where you can find us…<br />
@worldtravellerme<br />
Double tap our dreamy<br />
destination shots and tag<br />
us in your images for a chance to<br />
feature on our wall.<br />
@<strong>World</strong><strong>Traveller</strong>ME<br />
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Make the most of your<br />
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#<strong>World</strong><strong>Traveller</strong>ME<br />
Win a two-night stay at<br />
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Enjoy the very best of Madinat Jumeirah while staying in the Arabian-inspired<br />
summerhouses of Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf. Ideal for those who favour low-key<br />
luxury, the summerhouses are nestled in a serene garden setting, just steps away<br />
from the beach. Enjoy evening drinks with friends old and new before setting off<br />
on an abra along the waterways to discover the dining delights of this enduringly<br />
popular Dubai resort, which is home to more than 50 restaurants. To find out<br />
more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win. (T&Cs apply).<br />
TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS<br />
Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website,<br />
inspire your next trip…<br />
1The Knowledge.<br />
Read our handy<br />
how-tos, from<br />
getting to grips with<br />
travel insurance to<br />
helping kids beat jet<br />
lag, and more.<br />
2Staycations.<br />
Take a peek<br />
inside these top<br />
hotels and resorts on<br />
your doorstep, and<br />
then book your next<br />
mini break.<br />
3Insider guides.<br />
Check out our<br />
in-the-know<br />
travel edits of some<br />
of the most popular<br />
holiday destinations<br />
on our radar.<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com 71
Suite dreams<br />
Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite<br />
that has a character and style all of its own<br />
TERRACE SUITE SAGRADA FAMILIA<br />
The One Barcelona, a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts<br />
Rooms with a view don't come any grander than this; the room in question being a huge,<br />
daylight-flooded suite bedecked with abundant luxuries, and the view a sweeping one of low-rise<br />
Barcelona, with Gaudi's unfinished masterpiece Sagrada Familia as its towering focal point. It's<br />
a sight you can soak in (literally) from the free-standing bathtub in the marble-lined bathroom,<br />
or, better still, from the alfresco Jacuzzi, on a stunning terrace you can access from every room.<br />
72 worldtravellermagazine.com
AT THE EDGE OF THE<br />
WORLD, WHERE THE SKY<br />
SWIMS IN SEA BLUE<br />
this island sanctuary<br />
welcomes you with breeze<br />
and birdsong, candlelit dinners<br />
and infinite views.<br />
Just daydreams away<br />
from the buzz of the capital,<br />
you can lose yourself<br />
in the peaceful luxury<br />
of your own perfect universe.<br />
YOUR EXTRAORDINARY STORY<br />
Zaya Nurai Island Resort<br />
#InAbuDhabi<br />
visitabudhabi.ae
Flavors of Latin America<br />
Latin American is the name of the game at Garden, where vibrant<br />
street food from Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Brazil and Argentina are<br />
taking Dubai by storm. Get Latino fever with your favorite modern<br />
riffs from tacos to arepas. We hear there’s even a Taco Society.<br />
Just<br />
Opened<br />
Complemented by fun and exciting beverages,<br />
Garden’s dreamy outdoor setting on the bustling<br />
terrace will keep you coming back for more!<br />
Open Sunday - Thursday | 5:30pm - midnight<br />
JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai<br />
T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />
gardendxb