World Traveller January 2020

INSPIRED BY 

ISSUE 105 | JANUARY 2020 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

JAPAN 

MARRAKECH 

STAYCATIONS 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

SPARRING 

PARTNERS 

Recharge at these 

dreamy Indian 

Ocean spas 

The new 

New York 

How to put a fresh 

spin on a golden oldie 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

Soft-sand beaches, zingy African flavours, and devoid of tourists 

– introducing the delicious little islands of São Tomé and Príncipe

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email

Welcome note 

If, like us, staring at the blank pages of a brand new travel 

journal fills you with wanderlust, and you're armed with a 

refreshed batch of annual leave, it's high time to start booking 

those trips you promised you'd take in 2020. 

Managing Director 

Victoria Thatcher 

Chief Creative Officer 

John Thatcher 

General Manager 

David Wade 

Managing Editor 

Faye Bartle 

faye@hotmedia.me 

Content Writer 

Habiba Azab 

habiba@hotmedia.me 

Editorial Assistant 

Ronak Sagar 

Art Director 

Kerri Bennett 

Senior Designer 

Hiral Kapadia 

If you're still feeling the effects of the silly 

season, a wellbeing boosting break could be 

just what the doctor ordered. This month, 

we've rounded up the 20 best pampering spa 

experiences to indulge in across the Indian Ocean 

(page 26). From doing your daily sun salutations 

on a white-sand beach in the Seychelles to getting 

a vitamin infusion in the Maldives or having a 

hydrating honey wrap in Mauritius, these luxury 

spas will help you emerge a smoother, shinier, 

happier version of your former self. 

Also inside this issue, we take you to the streets 

of New York, where there's always something 

new to discover (page 38); shine a light on the 

wonderfully off-radar little islands of São Tomé 

and Príncipe (page 44); and show you why 

swapping cherry blossom for snow-capped 

mountains in Japan may be the best decision you 

make this year (page 50). 

Happy travels, 

Faye Bartle 

Win! 

A two-night stay 

at Jumeirah Dar Al 

Masyaf in Dubai, 

p71 

FIVE THINGS 

WE LEARNED 

THIS ISSUE: 

1 

Snuggling under a 

weighted blanket could 

help ease your nerves 

when flying, p22 

2 

The new Statue of 

Liberty Museum is the 

most significant addition 

to Liberty Island since 

the statue was launched 

in 1886, p38 

3 

In São Tomé, they like 

to 'Léve-léve' ('take it 

easy'), p44 

4 

You can support 

disadvantaged women 

by sampling their everchanging 

menu of local 

dishes at Amal Women's 

Moroccan restaurant in 

Marrakech, p56 

5 

December through 

March is the quietest 

and cheapest time to 

visit Japan, p50 

Senior Advertising Manager 

Mia Cachero 

mia@hotmedia.me 

Production Manager 

Muthu Kumar 

INSPIRED BY 

Photography credits: 

Getty Images and Phocal Media 

Reproduction in whole or in part 

without written permission from 

HOT Media is strictly prohibited. 

HOT Media does not accept 

liability for omissions or errors in 

World Traveller. 

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 

COVER IMAGE 

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FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME 

INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme 

TWITTER @WTravellerME 

worldtravellermagazine.com 5

Yoga on a sandbank at Soneva Jani. Photo by Stevie Mann 

Contents 

January 2020 

15 

GLOBETROTTER 

regulars 

10 15 22 70 72 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

This month's go-to 

places include sunny 

Perth, adventurous Koh 

Samui and the winter 

wonderland of Yerevan. 

GLOBETROTTER 

Why ultra all-inclusive 

is the way to go in 2020, 

wellbeing boosting 

breaks to help you start 

the year right, and fab 

new hotels on our radar. 

THE KNOWLEDGE 

Does the thought of 

flying give you sweaty 

palms? We share some 

tried and tested tips 

for getting you on that 

aeroplane. 

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD 

Head online for 

exclusive travel content 

and, better yet, the 

chance to win a luxury 

stay at Jumeirah Dar Al 

Masyaf in Dubai. 

SUITE DREAMS 

Soak up the views of 

Gaudi's Sagrada Familia 

from the free-standing 

bathtub in this grand 

Terrace Suite at The 

One Barcelona. 


CONTENTS 

features 

26 38 

THE BEST INDIAN GLAMOUR & GRIT 

OCEAN SPAS 

Faye Bartle discovers 

We've rounded up 20 how to put a fresh spin 

fabulous places to be on a timeless classic by 

pampered in Seychelles, mixing the old with the 

Maldives and Mauritius. new in New York. 

44 

INTO THE UNKNOWN 

Soft-sand beaches and 

zingy African flavours; 

Stanley Stewart 

introduces the islands of 

São Tomé and Príncipe. 

50 

CHILL OUT 

Onsen baths, piping hot 

noodle bowls, and ways 

to get cosy, Alicia Miller 

explores the snowy 

spectacle of Japan. 

La Mamounia, Marrakech 

56 

LONG WEEKEND 

weekends 

56 60 

A LONG WEEKEND STAYCATIONS 

IN MARRAKECH Feel in need of a break? 

Let the city's heady We have a few more 

blend of culture and reasons to book a 

beauty lure you in. weekend escape. 

66 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

It's time we sent you 

packing. Choose your 

next adventure from 

our exclusive offers. 

8 worldtravellermagazine.com

Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. 

Renew for the journey ahead. 

A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, 

where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the 

well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, 

one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two 

Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals 

or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious 

gifts and spa products for every occasion. 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE 

T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

*Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS 

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, 

reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month 

Koh Samui 

It’s dry season in Thailand – an excellent time to explore its beautiful islands. An adventure seeker's paradise, Koh 

Samui is home to the Ang Thong Marine Park – an archipelago of more than 40 islands where you can swim, snorkel, 

hike and kayak to your heart's content. Explore the colourful neighbourhoods, such as Chaweng for its buzzing main 

street, beach dining and nightlife, as well as the rustic Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village and its popular night market. 

Highlights 1 Hire a motorbike and set off on a thrill-a-minute tour – you can circumnavigate the island in just a couple of hours. 

2 Stroll through the Secret Buddha Garden private sculpture park atop Pom Mountain and discover its unique collection 

of hand-carved statues nestled in the lush jungle. 3 Get fit quick by booking yourself in for some private Muay Thai training 

sessions – Punch It Gym takes beginners through to seasoned fighters under its wing. 



Perth 

The sunniest (and perhaps the coolest) city in Australia, Perth calls with its glittering downtown skyline, vibrant 

Elizabeth Quay, and contemporary Australian dining at the multilevel Print Hall. Enjoy endless sunshine on its 

pristine beaches lapped by the Indian Ocean, from the renowned Cottesloe Beach to the 63 white-sand coves on 

Rottnest Island, a nature reserve home to the cute and friendly quokka, and which will soon boast a new marina. 

Highlights 1 For thrills and spills, head to Perth's Outback Splash, which has unveiled a new six-storey slide tower featuring Western 

Australia's fastest-ever body slide, among other attractions. 2 Animal lovers can head to Yanchep National Park to stroll along the 

koala boardwalk for a peek at these cuddly creatures in their natural environment. 3 Embark on a tour of Perth's hip urban art, 

including the stunning new mega-mural on Hay Street by Melbournian street artist Matt Adnate. 


Cape Canaveral 

The hub of the US space programme, Cape Canaveral calls would-be astronauts to the Kennedy Space Center 

Visitor Complex, where you can learn about space travel, train like an astronaut, or strap yourself in for lift-off in 

its shuttle launch experience. It makes a great day trip from Orlando (the theme park capital of the world) as part of 

an adventurous itinerary. Or, you can stay at the Cape and enjoy its hotels, restaurants and quiet beaches. 

Highlights 1 Visit Canaveral National Seashore, part of America’s national park system, which boasts a vast stretch of beautifully 

wild white-sand beach, home to various plant and bird species. 2 Stare into a beautiful sunset at Center Street Park and, with any luck, 

you'll enjoy a rare glimpse of manatees in the river. 3 Learn about the city’s past, its present and the origins of its celebrated port at 

Exploration Tower, a seven-storey building of interactive exhibits with wonderful views of Port Canaveral. 



Compiled by: Soumaya El Filali 

Yerevan 

A winter wonderland that's close to home, Yerevan is usually covered in fluffy white snow at this time of year, 

and the waters of Lake Sevan freeze over. The city streets light up for the festive period and local businesses 

are keen to welcome visitors in from the cold to enjoy delicious local Armenian cuisine, including lots of lavash 

bread. Take a day trip to the surrounding mountains for some of the most affordable skiing on the planet. 

Highlights 1 Spend some time in the rosy-hued Republic Square, made partly from Armenia’s famous pink tufa stone. Its central building 

houses the History Museum of Armenia, as well as the National Art Gallery of Armenia. 2 Climb the 572 steps of the Cascade stairway for 

stunning views of the city. While you're there, check out contemporary art giant, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts. 3 Stock up on keepsakes 

at Vernissage open-air flea market, where artisan finds include beautiful ceramics, dazzling jewellery and traditional ornaments. 


JANUARY 

Globetrotter 

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Be informed, be inspired, be there 

ROCK ON 

With its jaw-droppingly beautiful rugged landscape, 

star quality and designer shopping, the glamour and 

glitz of Capri is a siren call. Join the shiny happy people 

heading to this idyllic Italian island hotspot in the spring 

when Jumeirah is orchestrating a grand re-opening of 

the legendary Capri Palace for a brand new season of la 

dolce vita. Born in the 1960s, it is designed in the style of 

an 18th century Neapolitan palazzo, with a two-Michelinstar 

L’Olivo restaurant, beach club and cutting edge 

medical spa enticing you to holiday like the A-list. 


GLOBETROTTER 

JA The Resort, Dubai 

Taylor River Lodge , Colorado 

GO ALL IN 

Why go all-inclusive when you can go 

ultra-all inclusive? We find out what 

the fuss is all about... 

Kinara by Vikas Khanna 

at JA The Resort, Dubai 

One &Only Gorilla's Nest 

Rio Palena Lodge, Chile 

Taking the 'everything's included' concept to the 

next level, offering a host of supersized added 

extras, ultra-inclusive holidays are the ultimate 

indulgence. Here's a few of our favourites: Taylor 

River Lodge, Colorado will put you up in a rustic 

cabin with an expert guide on hand to help 

you make the most of your trip by taking part 

in awesome outdoor activities, from fly fishing 

in the trout pond to white-water rafting; the 

remote Rio Palena Lodge, Chile, situated next 

to its namesake river, invites adventure seekers 

to discover the best of Patagonia with thrilling 

pursuits on tap, such as hiking on a dormant 

volcano and a day's heli-fishing; on our doorstep, 

JA The Resort in Dubai is luring dedicated 

foodies for a mouthwatering staycation with a 

free rein at a whopping 25 dining spots there. 

ON OUR RADAR 

The first aquarium dining 

experience in Bali, Koral 

Restaurant, has opened 

at The Apurva Kempinski 

Bali, serving up a taste of 

the Indonesian coast. 

Polo fans can head to Saudi 

Arabia, which is hosting its 

first ever polo tournament 

from 16-18 January at AlUla 

heritage site as part of the 

Winter at Tantora festival. 

Visiting St. Petersburg 

just got a little easier for 

nationals of 53 foreign 

states, including those 

from Saudi Arabia, thanks 

to the new eVisa service. 

The perfect spot for a 

girls-only holiday, the new 

Sofie’s floor at Sofitel 

Dubai Downtown Hotel is 

dedicated exclusively to 

female guests. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI 

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI... 

Stay a step ahead 

Make an energetic start to the new year by checking out these active 

attractions that'll help you discover the capital from a fresh perspective 

1Great for all the family, the newly 

opened CLYMB Abu Dhabi on 

Yas Island calls all those with 

a head for heights. It's home to the 

world's largest indoor skydiving flight 

chamber and tallest indoor climbing 

wall, The Summyt, which reaches 43 

metres in height. Test your skills with 

the help of the expert instructors who 

are on hand to ensure everyone from 

first-time flyers (aged three and up) 

to seasoned climbers have a thrilling 

time. The aesthetically stunning 

geometrically designed building is an 

attraction in itself. 

2 

Enjoy one of the UAE’s most 

beautiful architectural spectacles 

from the still waters of the 

Arabian Gulf by taking part in a 

kayaking tour of Louvre Abu Dhabi. 

Guides will take you on a serene 

journey around the landmark as 

they share the story of the French 

museum’s launch in the UAE. Tours 

last one hour and are available for 

people of all skill levels. For an even 

more magical experience, book in for 

one of the full moon tours. Children 

age six to 12 must be accompanied by 

a parent or guardian. 

3 

Nature lovers can take a hike 

along the new Mangrove 

Boardwalk opening this month. 

Built on Jubail Island, and stretching 

between Yas and Saadiyat islands, it 

offers a coveted chance to get a feel 

for 'the lungs of the city', providing a 

glimpse of the area's rich biodiversity, 

including its flora and fauna and 

exotic bird life (think pink flamingoes 

and herons). You can also set off in a 

kayak, take the kids to the play area, 

or simply soak up the scenery from 

the viewing terraces. 

Find out more at visitabudhabi.ae 

Photo: CLYMB Abu Dhabi 


GLOBETROTTER 

NEW 

FOR YOU 

Fresh places to stay 

MALDIVES 

EMERALD MALDIVES RESORT & SPA 

With its coveted wraparound reef 

placing you mere footsteps away from 

exotic fish, turtles and manta rays, this 

deluxe all-inclusive resort (40-minutes 

by seaplane from Malé) will blow the 

winter cobwebs away with its mix of 

sun, sea, sand and delicious food. 

TUNISIA 

ANANTARA TOZEUR RESORT 

Surrounded by the majestic desert, 

with views of the Chott El Djerid salt 

flats, this luxury resort on the edge of 

Tozeur beckons. We rate the Arabian 

Cultural Village, with its souk and 

restaurant serving delicacies such as 

camel steaks cooked on an open fire. 

Photography: Katie Wilson 

DUBAI 

ANDAZ DUBAI THE PALM 

Promising you'll arrive a visitor and 

depart a local, this Palm Jumeirah 

hotel (which opened on 15 December) 

has gone all out to weave local culture 

into its DNA. Lap up its adults-only 

Cabana pool area, boutique spa, yoga 

terrace and five delicious dining spots. 


GLOBETROTTER 

ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort and Spa 

SELF-CARE HOTSPOTS 

WELLBEING BOOSTING BREAKS 

JET OFF ON A HEALTH TRIP 

TAKE A THERAPEUTIC DUNK... 

IN THE HOT SPRINGS OF JAPAN 

Famous for its hot springs, Oita 

Prefecture in Japan is the place 

to go for a beautifying dunk. ANA 

InterContinental Beppu Resort and 

Spa is designed to coax guests into a 

state of calm, with its own stylish onsen 

inviting you to soak in the soothing 

myoban waters while overlooking 

Beppu Bay. Turn to page 50 to read our 

feature on winter in Japan. 

PRACTICE MINDFULNESS... ON A 

WELLNESS CRUISE IN VIETNAM 

Heritage Line has launched a threeday 

wellness and mindfulness focused 

voyage on Lan Ha Bay in Vietnam. 

Board the 10-suite vessel, Ylang, and 

be pampered in the floating spa inbetween 

meditation sessions, early 

morning tai chi sessions on the deck 

and savouring light Vietnamese dishes. 

HAVE A HOLISTIC DETOX... 

IN KOH SAMUI 

Need a clean sweep? Ease yourself 

into it on the 12-Day Holistic Detox 

Package at Absolute Sanctuary, 

Koh Samui, which incorporates spa 

treatments and alternative therapies, 

such as magnesium foot baths and 

Thai stretch massages, alongside two 

healthy meals a day. 

It seems you can put a price on good 

health. International wellness tourists 

spend around US$1,528* per trip 

Feeling under pressure? The 7-day 

Stress Management Programme 

at Spain's SHA Wellness Clinic will 

restore vitality, health and balance. 

Need to break out of a rut? Holistic 

healer Leela Isani, will take you on a 

journey of self-healing at Atmantan 

Wellness Resort in India this month. 

Soneva Jani in Maldives currently 

has a fab line-up of visiting wellness 

practitioners specialising in 

ayurveda to help you feel your best. 

*Source: The The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) Global Wellness Economy Monitor 


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KNOW-HOW 

The Knowledge 

HOW TO... 

Conquer your fear of flying 

From the art of deep breathing to snuggling under a weighted blanket 

– we share some practical and easy tips for getting you on that aeroplane 

Clammy palms, palpitations, butterflies 

in the tummy… if the very thought of 

flying breaks you out in a cold sweat, 

you’re not alone. One in four UAE 

residents have a fear of flying, according 

to a study by British Airways, with 

concerns around safety and being 

afraid of the unknown the biggest 

triggers. While severe aviophobia 

can be a challenge to overcome, if 

you have a moderate case of the 

jitters there are lots of useful tips 

and tricks to try so you don’t have to 

miss out on those exotic holidays. 

TALK TO AN EXPERT 

A good first step is to reach out to a 

professional who can draw upon some 

tried and tested therapies to help get 

you airborne. “For a fear of flying, 

we work on visualisation, reducing 

anxiety, systematic desensitisation, and 

exposure therapy,” says Dr Thoraiya 

Kanafani of the Human Relations 

Institute and Clinics in Dubai. “The 

gist of the treatments are based on 

the cognitive behavioural therapy 

approach, which posits that by 

changing the way that we think, we can 

ultimately change the way we behave. 

Eventually, the anxiety subsides to 

a level where it is no longer causing 

any dysfunction in the person's life 

or at times, even acknowledged.” 

USE FACTS OVER FEAR 

Many fears can stem from ‘what if?’, 

so if you are armed with facts and 

knowledge, these unknowns become 

greatly diminished. Did you know, for 

instance, that turbulence is a natural 

occurrence when flying and, although 

it can feel scary at times, it's totally 

normal? British Airways has a one-day 

course coming up in Dubai on April 17, 

2020 led by experienced presenters 

and BA pilots that explains the 

technical side of aviation, including all 

the unusual noises and sensations you 

experience in an aircraft. Plus, they'll 

share some relaxation techniques that'll 

help you take control of your anxiety. 

(See flyingwithconfidence.com). 

GRAB A WEIGHTED BLANKET 

Studies have shown that a weighted 

blanket can have a relaxing effect on 

the body. Hence, getting your hands on 

a travel-friendly version can help you 

feel more at ease mid-flight. Popular 

brands include SensaCalm and ZonLi 

– you can find them easily online. 

BREATHE SLOWLY 

AND STEADILY 

Simple breathing exercises can send a 

signal to the parasympathetic nervous 

system to calm the body down. 

Breathing expert Max Strom (maxstrom. 

com) has some easy videos and courses 

to try – simply download his Strategic 

Breathing app. One such suggestion is 

the 4-7-8 breath technique: empty the 

lungs of air, breathe in quietly through 

the nose for four seconds, hold the 

breath for a count of seven seconds 

and then exhale to a count of eight. 

GET PLUGGED IN 

While you’re packing, en-route to the 

airport, in the sky; tune into the power 

of music to keep you calm. Researchers 

at Stanford University say that music is 

“one of the most widely available and 

cost effective therapeutic modalities 

that ever existed” and suggest that 

"listening to music seems to be able 

to change brain functioning to the 

same extent as medication”. Apps like 

Calm and Spotify have some perfectly 

curated playlists to help soothe you. 

VISUALISE 

Exercises in visualisation and 

mindfulness can be a powerful 

distraction from a state of fear. Try 

visualising yourself stepping off the 

aircraft into the arms of loved ones, 

or into a lovely warm climate. There 

are many apps available to support 

you with guided exercises, including 

Headspace, Catch It, Beat Panic, Thrive 

and the online course, Be Mindful. 


HAVE YOU 

PICKED UP YOUR 

EDITION OF 

DNATA TRAVEL 

DEALZ 

THIS MONTH? 

Don’t miss dnata Travel’s top monthly offers 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

STAYCATIONS 

AND GETAWAYS 

CLOSER TO HOME 

INTERNATIONAL 

HOLIDAY 

PACKAGES 

With our 60 years of experience and global partnerships, you’ll be surprised at how far we can take you, for less. Go on an 

unmissable UAE staycation to a brand new property or a great located resort with plenty of added extras. Experience your 

dream international holiday, to an exciting, trending destination or on a package designed for all the family — with 

extras including discounts off of your stay, room upgrades and free kids stays. Whatever your travel style, you’ll find 

something incredible for you at an amazing price, right here in dnata Travel dealz. 

For more information 

visit dnatatravel.com, call 800 dnata (36282) or 

visit your nearest dnata Travel outlet 

Download our app 

| Follow us on

A diamond in the rough 

Escape to Anantara’s resort in Salalah and unlock an intriguing mixture 

of culture and heritage, with a generous helping of outdoor adventure 

Luxe mobile camping 


WORLD TRAVELLER X AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA 

One Bedroom Beach View Pool Villa 

One Bedroom Garden 

View Pool Villa 

The luxurious 

hammam 

Set on a wild, palm-fringed beach, 

Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara 

is an idyllic hideaway that's fast 

becoming a favourite among intrepid 

travellers. For a moment, you may even be 

fooled into thinking you’re lazing on the 

tropical beaches of southern India as you 

unwind on the pristine stretch of shoreline. 

The reality is even better, however, as 

the verdant southern province of Dhofar 

is famous for its lush natural attractions, 

including its fruit plantations, waterfalls 

and green rolling hills that burst into life 

during the summer monsoon season. Home 

to fascinating sites including Al Balid City, 

which dates to 2000 BCE, and the Museum 

of the Land of Frankincense, it's also the 

perfect spot in which to soak up the rich 

Omani heritage. Indeed, the destination 

calls adventure-seekers in droves with its 

awesome landscape that blends the majestic 

mountains, great expanses of desert and the 

sparkling blue sea. 

Guests at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by 

Anantara can enjoy a bespoke itinerary, 

which weaves in all those must-have 

experiences, from camel trekking with 

members of the local Mahrah tribe along 

the ancient frankincense routes, to special 

interest trips focusing on marine life, 

astrology, archaeology and more. Hiking 

in the mountains, which are dotted with 

cultural and historic sites and brimming 

with flora and fauna, is unmissable – make 

your way up for views that will take your 

breath away. Those who like to be on the 

water can take part in dolphin and seaturtle 

watching, enjoy a day’s fishing, or 

discover the underwater delights with some 

snorkelling or diving in the area, which is 

teeming with sea life. 

Back at the resort, you can stay in hot 

pursuit of adventure while on a glamorous 

camping experience. Operated by Oman 

Expeditions, you can sleep under the stars 

(albeit with all your creature comforts) in 

a luxury tent complete with comfortable 

mattress, cotton sheets, private bathroom, 

and open-air shower, with finishing touches 

including Arabesque rugs, candles and oil 

lamps creating a magical ambience. Your 

personal chefs will prepare an array of Middle 

Eastern, North African and Mediterranean 

dishes using local ingredients for a delectable 

dinner under the stars served by the camp 

fire. During your adventure, you’ll cross paths 

with local tribesmen and get an up close look 

at the rich wildlife the country has to offer, 

as you experience the way of the bedouin. 

Simply tailor the experience to suit you. 

If all that adventure has burned through 

your energy reserves, take some time to 

rejuvenate at the main resort. Offering 

elegant rooms and villas (the largest of 

which sleeps up to six adults and three 

children), a pampering spa that draws 

upon age-old Ayurveda techniques and 

fine dining on tap, you'll receive nothing 

short of the royal treatment. Feed your 

appreciation for the place by siting down 

to a five-star meal at Mekong, which brings 

together some of the best of Thai, Chinese 

and Vietnamese cuisine. Another favourite 

is beach bar and lounge Al Mina, offering 

dishes inspired by Middle Eastern, 

Spanish, Greek and Italian cuisine, as well 

as a sizzling beach barbecue that's best 

enjoyed alfresco. 

To find out more, visit www.anantara. 

com/en/al-baleed-salalah 


The Indian Ocean’s 

most incredible spas 

Feeling jaded after the festive season? Head to one of these dreamy spas 

in the Maldives, Seychelles or Mauritius to thoroughly recharge 

Seychelles 

Le Syel Spa, Four Seasons 

Resort Seychelles 

High on a hilltop overlooking Petite Anse 

Bay on Mahé’s southwestern coast, this 

nurturing spa is reason enough to check-in 

for at least a week. There are five open-air 

treatment rooms, all facing the ocean and 

with an outdoor bathtub for soaking up 

the best views and breezes. Treatments 

such as facials, body scrubs and massages 

are locally-inspired and performed by 

expert hands, while the resident yogis and 

visiting practitioners, from reiki healers to 

sophrologists, provide top-to-toe rebalancing. 

Top treatment: Performed by two therapists 

working in unison, the Four-Handed Elevation 

is two hours of pure, sleep-inducing bliss. 

Raffles Spa, Raffles Seychelles 

On the north-eastern tip of Praslin, the 

second-largest island in the Seychelles, this 

slick spa mixes Biologique Recherche facials 

with Asian massage and yoga. There are a 

dozen open-air treatment pavilions where you 

can admire the views of the sapphire-blue 

ocean (if you can keep your eyes open long 

enough, that is). Recline by the outdoor pool 

in between treatments, and relax in the sauna, 

steam room and Jacuzzi. 

Top treatment: For the most buttery-soft 

skin imaginable, try the Traditional Chocolate 

Scrub – a sweet-smelling concoction of cacao 

powder, raw sugar and coconut oil. 


SUITE INCREDIBLE SPOTS SPAS 2019 

Le Syel Spa, Four 

Seasons Resort 

Seychelles Photo: 

Ken Seet 


INCREDIBLE SPAS 

Kempinski The Spa, Kempinski 

Seychelles Resort Baie Lazare 

Set on a stunning stretch of coastline in southwest 

Mahé, the Kempinski’s spa menu is inspired by the 

four seasons. Nestled among swaying palm trees 

with the air infused by frangipanis, there are six 

thatch-roof bungalows and a menu of treatments 

designed to leave you feeling revitalised, relaxed, 

balanced or energised. Rejuvenate both body and 

mind with morning yoga on a hilltop overlooking 

the sea, and afternoon pétanque on the beach. 

Top treatment: Experience three coconut-infused 

treatments – an exfoliating body scrub, hair 

treatment and massage – during the two-hour 

Island Coco Trio ritual. 

U Spa by Constance, 

Constance Ephelia 

Where better to unwind than a 

barefoot-luxe resort on Mahé’s 

northwestern coast, bookended by 

beaches with a mangrove forest in 

the middle? Tucked among tropical 

gardens, U Spa by Constance is like 

a mini-village: a dozen traditionalstyle 

bungalows dotted around 

a pool, with sauna, steam room, 

Jacuzzi, yoga pavilion and beauty 

bar. Take your pick of treatments 

and couples’ rituals that use natural 

products inspired by local plants, 

while the soothing soundtrack of 

birdsong floats in. 

Top treatment: The no-oil Thai 

shiatsu massage combines deep 

kneading and stretching to help 

ease tense muscles and balance 

your mind. 

AvaniSpa, Avani Barbarons Resort 

& Spa 

Ease into the rhythm of island life at this tranquil 

spa on Mahé’s west coast. Choose from ‘me-time’ 

treatments or ‘we-time’ couples’ rituals performed 

by skilled therapists using natural products, 

including nourishing body treatments, heavenly 

massages and Ayurvedic therapies. In-between 

treatments, work on your tan by the plunge pool, 

or head down to the beach where the resident 

yoga instructor leads daily sun salutations and 

guided meditations. 

Top treatment: Want smooth, plumped-up skin? 

The Glorious Skin facial reduces fine lines and 

rehydrates sun-damaged skin. 


Banyan Tree Spa, 

Banyan Tree 

Seychelles 

Banyan Tree spas are all 

about traditional techniques 

(Thai, Balinese, Ayurvedic) 

and natural ingredients 

(coconut, honey, cucumber), 

and this gorgeous hideaway 

on Mahé’s south-western 

coast is no exception. 

Nimble-fingered therapists 

will unknot tense muscles 

so you float out feeling 

incredibly calm, while yoga 

and meditation sessions take 

place in the tropical gardens 

overlooking the crescentshaped 

beach, or on the 

powdery soft sand. 

Top treatment: The 2.5-hour 

Royal Banyan ritual begins 

with a herbal soak, followed 

by acupressure, herbal 

compresses and a soothing 

face massage. 



Maldives 

The Over-Water Spa, Conrad Maldives 

Rangali Island 

With three glass-floored treatment rooms set on stilts over 

the sea, this spectacular spa in the South Ari Atoll offers 

both ancient therapies and modern treatments. There’s 

a comprehensive massage menu, including hot stone, 

four-hand, shiatsu and Thai, as well as a dozen different 

facials with products from Elemis and cult Swiss brand 

Valmont. Two-hour colour rituals, meanwhile, are designed 

to balance your chakras (stressed-out types should opt for 

energising orange). 

Top treatment: Enjoy side-by-side pampering during the 

Maldivian Indigenous couples’ treatment that includes a 

full-body massage using heated coconut sticks. 

Six Senses Spa, 

Six Senses Laamu 

Overlooking a talcum-white beach in 

the remote southern Laamu Atoll, the 

Six Senses Spa has a zen-inducing vibe. 

The focus is on natural and holistic 

treatments, including facials, wraps 

and gentle full-body pummelling, along 

with Ayurveda therapies based on your 

dosha (body type) and soul-nurturing 

meditation and yoga in the rooftop 

studio. For targeted transformation, 

opt for a bespoke wellness programme 

focusing on sleep, fitness or detoxing. 

Top treatment: Banish fine lines with the 

24k Gold Age-Defying Facial, which uses 

jasmine and gold leaf to boost collagen 

production and stimulate cell renewal. 

Six Senses Laamu 

Iaso Medi Spa, Heritance 

Aarah 

Named after the Greek goddess of 

recuperation, this overwater spa in 

the Raa Atoll offers much more than 

massage. Alongside facials, body scrubs 

and pedicures, there’s a menu of highly 

specialised treatments to target pesky 

problems such as sunspots, sagging 

necks and frown lines. Need a total 

reboot? Tailored programmes combine 

things like vitamin infusions, face peels 

and PT sessions to help you roll back 

the years or shift those extra pounds. 

Top treatment: Tighten and brighten 

dull and droopy skin with a Non-Surgical 

Facelift, which uses microcurrents to 

boost collagen. 

Heavenly Spa, The Westin Maldives 

Miriandhoo Resort 

Set on a jetty jutting into the turquoise waters 

of the Baa Atoll, this aptly-named spa has 

glass-walled treatment rooms with windows in 

the floor so you can keep an eye on the marine 

life below. Choose from anti-ageing facials and 

muscle-melting massages to paraffin hand 

treatments and pedicures. After you’ve been 

thoroughly pampered, head to the light-filled 

lounge for a cup of herbal tea and yet more 

blissful views. 

Top treatment: The 90-minute Maldivian 

Bliss face and body treatment includes a 

magnesium-rich bath and dynamic massage 

for instant results. 


SUITE SPOTS 2019 

Calm Spa & Salon, 

JA Manafaru Maldives 

In the northernmost Haa Alif 

Atoll, JA Manafaru’s fabulous 

retreat was named Best Luxury 

Destination Spa at this year’s 

World Luxury Spa Awards. 

Pad through lush tropical 

gardens to the thatched-roof 

spa surrounded by a lily pond, 

where all 10 treatment rooms 

come with private garden and 

outdoor bathtub. One room 

is kitted out for Ayurvedic oil 

treatments and another for 

Thai massage, while treatments 

includes facials, massages, 

scrubs and wraps. 

Top treatment: The ultraindulgent 

Seven Day Manafaru 

Journey includes coconut-oil 

massages, Elemis facials, aftersun 

treatments and more. 


Sun Spa by Esthederm, 

Movenpick Resort 

Kuredhivaru Maldives 

Nestled in the Noonu Atoll, this 

sublime spa specialises in pre- and 

post-sun rituals by French skincare 

brand Esthederm to enhance your 

golden glow. Treatments take 

place in jungle suites or overwater 

pavilions, with skilled therapists to 

ease away shoulder knots and plump 

tired skin. Special treatments are 

available for little ones, while yogis 

will love the overwater shala where 

you can practise your poses during 

sunrise or sunset classes. 

Top treatment: Let your cares 

float away during a Sea of Serenity 

massage, which uses firm, rhythmic 

strokes inspired by waves. 



Spa by JW, JW Marriott 

Maldives Resort 

As relaxed as you may be lounging by 

the pool at this brand new resort in the 

northern Shaviyani Atoll, you’ll definitely 

want to check out the brilliant Spa by 

JW. Against a backdrop of shimmering 

aquamarine water, treatments range 

from pampering to deeply restorative 

– think hydrating facials, warm-oil 

massages and perfect mani-pedis. Be 

sure to squeeze in a workout at the 

overwater gym, or stretch out in the 

open-air yoga pavilion. 

Top treatment: Couples can choose 

between four different treatments 

during the two-hour Island Touch ritual, 

including reflexology, body scrub and 

hot stone massage. 

AVI Spa, InterContinental 

Maldives Maamunagau 

Resort 

Meaning ‘sunshine’ in the local language, 

AVI Spa’s thatched-roof overwater 

villas offer picture-perfect views of 

the Raa Atoll’s largest lagoon. When 

you’re not spotting manta rays, indulge 

in sweet-smelling organic treatments 

and mani-pedis by Margaret Dabbs, or 

try acupuncture and aerial yoga. There 

are outdoor pools with hydro-massage 

jets, as well as thermal suites with steam 

rooms and ice fountains. 

Top treatment: Bliss out with a soothing 

aloe vera and lavender body wrap, 

followed by a scalp massage, during the 

60-minute Sun-kissed Skin Cooler. 

Away Spa, W Maldives 

This private island resort in the North 

Ari Atoll serves up a full menu of 

massages, facials and more immersive 

experiences – think chakra balancing 

and sound bathing – in four luxurious 

treatment villas on the water. Each one 

has a spectacular sundeck with soaring 

white sails, outdoor tub and daybed so 

you can chill out before and after your 

treatments. In the main pavilion, you can 

practise your asanas during group or 

private yoga classes. 

Top treatment: The hour-long Crystal 

Healing Facial includes a jade-stone 

mask, use of cool rose-quartz crystals 

and warm herbal poultices to purify 

the skin. 


Mauritius 

Chi Spa, Shangri-La’s Le 

Touessrok Resort & Spa 

Alongside nine treatment rooms in earthy 

tones, you can elect to have your treatment 

by the ocean at Shangri-La’s sleek resort on 

the east coast. The menu is filled with Asian 

therapies (Chinese reflexology, Filipino hilot 

massage, Indian shirodhara) and face and 

body treatments using luxurious Carita and 

Decléor products. But as you’re in Mauritius, 

try a locally-inspired massage performed to 

the meditative rhythms of traditional sega 

tipik music. 

Top treatment: Ayurveda devotees should 

indulge in an Abhyanga detoxifying 

massage with long, symmetrical strokes to 

promote sleep. 



Shanti Spa, Shanti 

Maurice Resort 

With more than 25 treatment rooms, 

this south coast idyll is one of the largest 

spas in Mauritius. Set around a serene 

lagoon dotted with water lilies and two 

tea pavilions, the complex contains 

pavilions for aerial yoga, a Pilates studio, 

meditation rooms, hammams and two 

pools. Along with conventional face 

and body treatments, the spa takes 

an holistic, mind-body-soul approach 

to wellness, with a resident Ayurveda 

doctor on hand to devise customised 

programmes for each and every guest. 

Top treatment: Try Watsu, a form of 

shiatsu massage and movement therapy 

that takes place in a warm pool. 

Lux Me Spa, LUX* Grand Gaube 

Resort & Villas 

This impressive spa on the island’s north 

coast has 10 treatment rooms, sauna and 

steam rooms, Kérastase hair salon and Essie 

nail station, plus three pools with varying 

water temperatures. Tailor-made treatments 

include anti-ageing facials by Carita, and 

massage with exclusive oils created by 

renowned aromatherapist Shirley Page. For 

targeted results, chat to Burwing, the resident 

wellness concierge, who provides bespoke 

programmes and nutritional advice. 

Top treatment: The fashionably hirsute should 

go for the signature Wet Shave at Murdock, an 

outpost of the hip London barbershop. 

Iridium Spa, The St. Regis 

Mauritius Resort 

Staying at this colonial-style resort on 

the gorgeous Le Morne Peninsula on the 

island’s southwest tip is a tonic in itself. 

The sprawling spa, meanwhile, boasts 12 

treatment rooms, sauna and steam rooms, 

hair and nail salons and a barbershop. 

Treatments are decadent but results-driven 

– facial therapies by Swiss brand Valmont, 

cellulite-busting lymphatic massage 

and hydrating honey wraps – while daily 

mindfulness, tai chi and yoga classes add 

to the relaxed vibe. 

Top treatment: Start your day right with 

the Morning Bliss in Paradise, a ylang ylang 

massage for two in a cabana on the beach, 

followed by a healthy breakfast. 

Words by: Lara Brunt 

U Spa by Constance, 

Constance Prince Maurice 

This serene spa on the northeast coast 

features seven treatment rooms centred 

around a palm-shaded courtyard with a 

thermal pool, along with a sauna, steam 

room and plunge pool. Gentle therapists 

deliver hydrating facials and toning 

body treatments by French spa brand 

Sisley, while honeymooning couples 

enjoy Balinese massages in the openair 

pavilion by the beach. Kids aren’t 

forgotten either, with junior treatments 

and animal yoga classes. 

Top treatment: Treat your feet to a 

medical-grade pedicure designed by 

celebrity podiatrist Brice Nicham, whose 

A-list fans include Nicole Kidman and 

Eva Longoria. 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Postcards 

Stories from journeys 

far and wide 

NEW YORK p38 

SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE p44 

JAPAN p50 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 


NEW YORK 

From soaring landmarks to awe-inspiring art, 

luxury shopping and dishes with star quality 

– Faye Bartle discovers how to put a fresh spin on 

a timeless classic by mixing the old with the new in 

the city that never sleeps 

Opposite: Interior view of The 

Vessel, courtesy Of Tim Schenck 

This page: Nordstrom NYC. 

Photo: Connie Zhou 


With its bold blue swirls 

blending the hills into 

the sky and dashes of 

brilliant yellow and 

white punctuating the darkness, Van 

Gogh’s Starry Night has a hypnotising 

quality. Firmly under its spell, some 

polite jostling allowed me to make my 

way to the front of the hushed crowd 

that had gathered to behold its haunting 

beauty until I was planted firmly on the 

viewing line. Smaller than I imagined 

it would be, but mighty nonetheless, 

I dared to lean a little further towards 

it, earning an impressive dose of 

side-eye from the security guard. 

Painted in 1889 during the artist’s 

stay at the asylum of Saint-Paulde-Mausole 

near Saint-Rémy-de- 

Provence, the movement in the 

masterpiece is infectious. Stifling 

my urge to reach out and touch it, I 

took one last mental snapshot for the 

memory bank before giving way to 

the next patient row of onlookers. 

There was plenty more to see 

inside New York’s Museum of Modern 

Art. Having recently re-opened 

after a massive renovation, which 

has brought expanded galleries 

and brand new spaces dedicated to 

live performances, art creation and 

sparking conversation, this muchloved 

institution is buzzing with people 

seeking a fresh perspective on the Big 

Apple’s quintessential art experience. 

‘ 

YOU CAN SEE 

ROTHKO’S BEST 

TEARJERKERS, 

DALÍ’S MELTING 

CLOCKS AND 

EVEN MONET’S 

MURAL-SIZED 

WATER LILIES 

TRIPTYCH 

’ 

Yes, you can see Rothko’s best 

tearjerkers, Dalí’s melting clocks and 

even Monet’s dreamy mural-sized Water 

Lilies triptych. But you can also now 

view emerging works in the Marie-Josée 

and Henry Kravis Studio (the new space 

for live and experimental programming) 

which, when I visited, was home to 

a curious immersive installation by 

electronic music maestro David Tudor. 

As I strolled around the room, turning 

my ears towards the sounds resonating 

from the everyday objects suspended in 

the air (the vintage computer hard disc 

was my favourite instrument) I found 

myself craving an altogether different 

soundtrack – that of New York itself. 

The whoosh of a subway train 

speeding past, the incessant honking 

of taxi horns, a flurry of shoes clickclacking 

along the sidewalks, sirens 


NEW YORK 

These pages, clockwise from 

this image: Statue of Liberty 

Museum Engagement Gallery, 

courtesy of National Park 

Service; Presidential Suite by 

Roche Bobois at The Langham, 

New York, Fifth Avenue; 

installation view of Claude 

Monet’s Water Lilies (Gallery 

515) The Museum of Modern 

Art, New York. © 2019 The 

Museum of Modern Art. 

Photo: Kurt Heumiller 

wailing and street vendors enticing you 

to buy their pretzels and hot dogs in 

their thick New York drawl… the city’s 

energetic score may seem mundane to 

some but, to me, is absolutely thrilling. 

Formerly a dedicated London rat, a 

decade in Dubai had me missing the 

sounds of the streets. And although 

the winter weather was decidedly 

fresh – I’d forgotten what it felt like 

to be slapped in the face by a sub-zero 

gale – I was determined to spend the 

majority of my time exploring on foot. 

Gloves and woolly hat on, a walk 

in Central Park was non-negotiable. 

The last time I had visited, in 2004, 

there was snow on the ground. 

On this brisk November morning, 

however, as skaters glided across 

the ice rink, the leaves falling from 

the trees were still heart-warming 

shades of brown, red and orange. 

“Hey, where you from?” 

shouted a stranger wrapped 

up like the Michelin Man. 

“Dubai,” I offered back. 

“I’ve heard it’s a very nice country,” 

he retorted. I could have explained, but 

instead I simply smiled and continued 

on my city hike. Anyway, I had a lunch 

date at Marea, the famous Italian on 

the edge of the park, where you can 

often spot off-duty A-listers (Sarah 

Jessica Parker – her shoe boutique is 

just a hop and a skip away – Jay-Z and 

Beyoncé and even Barack and Michelle 

Obama have reportedly eaten there). It’s 

certainly the place to see and be seen. 

We craned our necks while sipping our 

bubbly but alas, the restaurant’s two 

Michelin stars would have to be enough 

to dazzle us today – and that they did. 

My oysters were plump and delicious, 

and the striped bass with clams was 

rich in flavour yet light enough for 

a middle of the day indulgence. 

Experiencing New York’s vibrant dining 

scene while actively trying to avoid falling 

into a food coma was proving quite the 

challenge, however. I savoured a divinely 

rich homemade short rib and boschetto 

cheese ravioli at yet another Italian great, 

Ai Fiori [The Langham, New York, Fifth 

Avenue], tasted zingy gazpacho before 

splitting a humongous lip-smacking 

black Angus steak at Leña in Mercado 

Little Spain [10 Hudson Yards], and 

enjoyed a taste of home at Ilili restaurant 


NEW YORK 

[236 5 th Avenue], which serves Lebanese 

Mediterranean food with a twist, such 

as lamb chops seared with zaatar salsa 

verde and homemade semolina gnocchi, 

as well as all your mezze favourites. 

Everything I tasted was beyond delicious. 

Even the steaming cup of hot chocolate I 

sipped to warm my bones on the ferry to 

Liberty Island was extraordinarily good. 

I was heading there for a slice of 

American history courtesy of the 

new Statue of Liberty Museum, 

which opened in May last year – the 

most significant addition since the 

monument herself was launched in 

1886. Home to three immersive and 

engaging gallery spaces, it tells the 

story of Lady Liberty, where she came 

from, how she was built and what she 

stands for culminating in an up-close 

view of the original torch, which was 

held high for nearly 100 years until it 

was replaced in 1986. You can practically 

feel the power surging though it. And 

while you can’t visit the monument's 

real torch today (it has been closed since 

the Black Tom explosion in 1916), you 

can climb all the way up to the crown. 

I was saving my legs for scaling 

the Empire State Building, however, 

which was just around the block from 

my hotel; The Langham, New York, 

Fifth Avenue. I joined the sunset 

rush, zooming up in the lift and then 

climbing the last few flights to the 

open-air 86 th Floor Observation Deck 

in order to get there before the sun 

dipped below the horizon. The view 

was just as magical as I had hoped for, 

with everything from Times Square to 

the Brooklyn Bridge, to feast my eyes 

on, it’s still one of the most romantic 

ways to get an overview of the city. 

Another elevated experience that 

won a place in my heart was walking 

The High Line. This public park built 

on a historic freight rail line above 

the streets on Manhattan’s West Side 

is dotted with public art, beautiful 

gardens and more, delivering surprises 

at every twist and turn. Peering out 

from underneath my umbrella, I spotted 

Robert Indiana's Love sculptures, 

canoodling couples and bold political 

statements as window dressings in 

the apartments that line the track. 

I came back down to ground level at 

Hudson Yards, yet only with a view to 

scaling yet another new attraction: The 

Vessel, which opened in March 2019. 

The honeycomb-like structure, designed 

by Thomas Heatherwick, is comprised 

of 154 intricately interconnecting 

flights of stairs, challenging you with 

almost 2,500 steps to take to reach 

the top. Gritty views of the city, the 

river and beyond are your reward. 

With my trip drawing to a close, I 

was keen to see what New York had to 

offer on the shopping front that was 

different to what I could find back 

at home. It’s unusual for anything 

massive to open in Manhattan, which 

is what makes the flagship Nordstrom, 

which opened in October 2019 at 57 th & 

Broadway, particularly noteworthy. A 

behemoth spread over seven floors, it’s 

one of the first new stores of its size to 

open on the island since the 1920s. It’s 

home to a number of exclusives worth 

splashing your dollars on, including the 

Nordstrom x Nike trainer boutique (it's 

where I found the Air Force 1 Metallic 

Sneakers of my dreams). You can put 

your own stamp on anything you buy, 

with tailoring or monogramming, 

thanks to the in-store Personalization 

Studio. The beauty floor is dangerously 

good, with clever solutions for busy 

New Yorkers, including the FaceGym 

where you can give your face a workout 

with moves designed to lift, sculpt tone 

and tighten, and the Drybar that turns 

a messy mane into a head of glorious 

locks without a drop of water in sight. 

This page: The Statue 

of Liberty stands proud 

Opposite: A snapshot of 

The High Line 

‘ 

PEERING 

OUT FROM 

UNDERNEATH 

MY UMBRELLA, 

I SPOTTED 

ROBERT 

INDIANA'S LOVE 

SCULPTURES ON 

THE HIGH LINE 

’ 

Perhaps it was because my room at 

The Langham was like a little apartment 

(indeed, a large apartment by New 

York standards), my unfettered view 

of the Chrysler Building from my 

supersized tub, and being swept away 

in a whirlwind of room service and 

butter-soft bedding. Or perhaps it was 

the fact that I didn't suffer an ounce 

of jet lag thanks to being horizontal 

for practically the entire flight thanks 

to Saudia’s Business Class beds, but 

I'd taken to New York like a mandarin 

duck to Central Park pond. And while 

I’d packed a lot into my five-day stay, I 

learned that even if you're a seasoned 

visitor, there are always new ways to 

discover the city that never sleeps. 

We flew with Saudia and stayed at The 

Langham, New York, Fifth Avenue. 

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 

800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 


Coconut palms sway along 

the shore in Porto Alegre 

Into the 

Unknown 

Soft-sand beaches, zingy African flavours – and yet the 

delicious little islands of São Tomé and Príncipe are still 

almost empty. Fill your boots, says Stanley Stewart 


SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE 

ometime past midnight, 

with little but starlight to 

guide us, we crept along 

the sands of Praia Grande 

in search of a miracle. 

‘We have several every 

night,’ our guide was 

saying. ‘Many have 

come thousands of 

kilometres to get to this 

beach, some from the 

other side of the Atlantic.’ 

Somewhere behind the 

line of waves we found a green 

turtle. She had created a nest by digging 

a hollow in the sand and laid a cache of 

eggs like a collection of white marbles. 

Now she was trying to hide them, her 

back flippers slowly flicking sand. She 

seemed exhausted, and must have felt 

clumsy and heavy on this beach. She 

worked in fits and starts, pausing after 

each exertion to catch her breath, until 

the eggs began to disappear. The guide 

located a tracking tag and checked the 

details. She was over 100 years old, 

born when men were still dying in the 

trenches of the First World War. 

The long peregrinations, the return 

to their place of birth, the danger, the 

courage… The whole sea-turtle story 

was what had brought me here. It 

appealed to my romantic instincts. For 

millions of years, they were the chief 

visitors to São Tomé and Príncipe, 

two small islands roughly 150km 

apart, lying in the Gulf of Guinea, 

320km off the coast of West Africa. 

The lush, verdant islands were a 

terrestrial paradise – an Eden without 

Adam and Eve to mess things up. No 

one lived here until colonialisation 

began in 1470, when the islands 

became an outpost of that creakiest 

of enterprises, the Portuguese empire 

– powered by the sweat of slaves 

imported from the African mainland. 

They may be two small outcrops in the 

mid-Atlantic that few people have heard 

of – yet, sure enough, with their gorgeous 

natural assets, São Tomé and Príncipe 

have begun attracting barefoot-in-thesand 

paradise-seekers in recent times, 

the kind of escapees who’ve fallen for 

Thailand and Goa in the past, but now 

fancy a couple of weeks of tropical R&R 

untainted by burger bars, nightclubs and 

suave-mixologist-dominated hangouts. 

And all without stinting on stylish, comfy, 

world-class places to rest their heads. 

São Tomé and Príncipe have beaches 

that would impress a Brazilian; dance 

steps (the kizomba, the tarrachinha) that 

would make a Cuban blush; vegetation 

more riotous than the Amazon’s; the 

world’s best chocolate; and a fascinating 

bird – sadly only seen by a handful of 

people and known by locals as a goo-goo, 

which apparently eats eggs and poos gold. 

Oh, and did I mention the sprinkling 

of elegant boutique-y hideaways? 

In São Tomé they say ‘Léve-léve’ – 

literally ‘Softly-softly’, in the sense of ‘Take 

it easy’. It makes sense. Disembarking 

in São Tomé, I was soon immersed in a 

leisurely swirl of life: mothers carried 

50kg of bananas on their heads and babies 

on their backs, ‘commuters’ pushed 

bicycles uphill with fish hanging from 

the crossbar. Dogs slept in the middle 

of the road. Goats jaywalked. But this 

stopover was merely a taster – it was 

Príncipe that delivered me to heaven. 

All it took was a half-hour onward 



flight by propeller plane. In Príncipe 

they say ‘Móli-móli’ – advice for people 

who find ‘Léve-léve’ just that little bit 

too rushed. Unsurprisingly, I was soon 

drowsing in a haven of hammocks and 

tropical plants, empty beaches and 

islanders living in rural tranquillity. 

I checked in at Roça Sundy, an old 

plantation house reworked as a boutique 

hotel of high-ceilinged rooms, fourposter 

beds and polished floorboards, 

where I slipped effortlessly into a less 

brutal version of the colonial lifestyle. 

By the first evening I had established 

something of a routine: sipping 

rum Daiquiris on the terrace and 

dining alone in candlelit splendour, 

as if I were a hill-station planter. 

Roças, as these plantation houses are 

known, fell into disrepair after 1975, when 

the Portuguese realised their empire was 

well past its sell-by date, and packed up 

and left, taking everything moveable, 

including all the country’s currency. 

Today, across the northern half of the 

island, the properties stand largely as 

overgrown monuments, riddled with dry 

rot and ghosts. But there are impressive 

restorations, such as Roça Sundy, a ruin 

saved and made beautiful by a wealthy 

South African, Mark Shuttleworth, who 

spent a week aboard the International 

Space Station in 2002. On Príncipe 

they call him the Man on the Moon. 

For me, Sundy’s seductions went 

far beyond the Daiquiris. Parts of the 

roça are still inhabited by Príncipean 

families, and the terreiro – the long 

central grassy courtyard around which 

the old plantation buildings were set – 

was as lively as an Italian piazza in the 

hour of the passeggiata. For a couple of 

days I was content to do nothing more 

than watch children chase footballs, 

twirl skipping ropes and scatter 

chickens. Toddlers clambered over a 

defunct steam engine. While men idled 

on benches, women bathed children, 

carried firewood, fetched water, cooked 

lunch, weeded gardens, planted corn 

and generally kept the world turning. 

Before long I fell in with Manu, a warm 

and energetic sexagenarian, who farmed 

pineapples on the slopes beneath his 

house. His wife brought us coffee and a 

plate of finger bananas. He grew expansive 

about the old days under the Portuguese, 

veering between praise for the economic 

‘ 

I PICNICKED ON EMPTY BEACHES. 

I TOOK MINI VOYAGES TO REMOTE 

PENINSULAS JUST TO LAZE AND 

LISTEN TO BIRDSONG 

’ 

activity, the enterprise of the roças as well 

as the oppression of the colonial system. 

He was soon on his feet, telling stories full 

of theatrical flourish. He was entertaining, 

certainly, but the tales he told contained 

genuine trauma. He was exorcising 

ghosts. Reducing the stories to anecdotes 

was his way of coping with a painful past. 

His wife returned with a plate of 

pineapple slices. ‘We must live for today,’ 

he exclaimed, throwing his hands up. 

‘We have the sun, the sea, this beautiful 

island.’ He leant forward conspiratorially: 

‘And I have the best pineapples on 

Príncipe.’ He was right, although I suspect 

his wife was responsible for them. 

As móli-móli as I could, on Sunday 

morning I set off to explore, following 

red-earth roads through exuberant 

jungle. I went to church in the toy-town 

capital, Santo António, and found myself 

in a swaying chorus line of heavenly 

backing singers as dogs wandered in to 

have a snooze beneath the high altar. 

At Praia Abade it was the villagers who 

were snoozing in hammocks, while the 

children, glossy as seals, somersaulted 

into the waves. One man woke to say 

hello. Luis was an émigré from São Tomé. 

He stretched his arms to encompass 

the long beach with the fishing boats 

drawn up, the leaning palm trees and the 

wide, blue bay. ‘You know why I stay?’ he 

asked. ‘Because time stands still here.’ 

To say tourism is in its infancy is an 

understatement. In a week I saw only 

20 other visitors. I picnicked on empty 

beaches. I took mini voyages to remote 

peninsulas just to laze and listen to 

birdsong. I was usually delivered to shore 

by Luis, who turned out to be just one of 

a bunch of beautiful characters happy to 

be earning a living helping visitors. There 

was João the driver, Miguel, the maitre 

d’, Alexander, the ubiquitous barman. 

And then there was lovely Leandro… 

I found Leandro one afternoon 

having ventured out to Roça Paciência, 

a plantation abandoned decades ago. 

In one of its empty storerooms he was 

weaving basket lampshades for the 

resorts, his bony hands looping the reed 

in and out of the struts. From time to 

time, he took a break to smoke his way 

through the dictionary. ‘Do you know 

we are at the centre of the world?’ he 

asked, tearing another page from his 

old book to roll a cigarette. Through the 

doorway I could see glamorous birds 

with long, silky tails swooping across 


Opposite: Red sky at night at Porto 

Alegre This page, clockwise from 

top: A vibrant parrotfish pauses by 

the coral reef; a fishing canoe rests 

at Lagoa Azul; juicy pineapples 

grow on the island 


the old plantation lawns. The sound of 

the Atlantic pounding on the pristine 

beach drifted our way through the trees. 

‘People say we are far away, that this 

is a remote place,’ he told me as we 

talked. ‘But this island is the closest 

land to where the equator meets zero 

degrees longitude. This is the centre. 

It is everyone else who is far away.’ 

The old plantations occupy the 

northern half of Príncipe. The southern 

half (the whole island is barely 30km long) 

is virgin forest. To islanders it is as remote 

as Outer Mongolia. To me, it felt like a lost 

world halfway between Tolkien’s Middle 

Earth and Gauguin’s South Sea paradise. 

Volcanic towers – spectacular basalt 

phonolites – thrust their way through the 

jungle canopy, rising hundreds of metres 

above the treetops. Flat-topped mesas 

and mountains dominate the skyline. 

I took a boat to this outback, flying 

fish darting beneath the bows, and went 

ashore to trek along jungle trails, keeping 

an eye out for the elusive goo-goo. The 

astonishing birdlife (there are 28 species 

on Príncipe) was as tame as in the 

Galápagos, lending a strange, dreamlike 

quality. A kingfisher perched a mere 

metre away, cocking its head to get a good 

look at me. Finches gathered about me, 

settling on nearby branches. A golden 

weaver alighted near my elbow, a piece of 

grass in its beak, ready to slot into its nest. 

I donned a mask and snorkel and the 

dream continued. With warm currents 

and excellent visibility, Príncipe’s seas 

are as pristine and as little explored as 

the land. An expedition here in 2006 

discovered 60 new fish, including 10 

from completely unknown species. I 

gazed down at nurse sharks 2.5 metres 

long, hovering over beds of sea grass 

in aqueous light. I watched silvery 

barracuda, stationary with the merest 

flick of their tails. Beyond a reef of pale 

rock, I spotted a spectacular Atlantic 

sailfish, its huge dorsal fin hoisted to 

the currents. With a turn of my head, 

I saw colourful parrotfish grazing on 

algae, bloated pufferfish comically 

struggling to keep themselves upright in 

the wash above the reefs, and shoals of 

yellowtail sardinella, wheeling this way 

and that like well-drilled regiments. 

And finally, in Mosteiros Bay, I found 

‘ 

TO SAY TOURISM IS IN ITS INFANCY 

IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. IN A WEEK 

I SAW ONLY 20 OTHER VISITORS 

’ 

the sea turtles, swimming earnestly 

towards their birthplaces, their little 

startled faces gazing up at me through 

shafts of refracted light. On these 

islands, turtles are creatures of legend 

and myth. They are seen as heroic, 

symbols of loyalty and determination. On 

Príncipe people speak of someone with 

courage as having the heart of a turtle. 

On that beach at Praia Grande, just 

after midnight, the heroism was evident. 

Having covered her eggs, my green turtle 

began the trek back to the ocean. It wasn’t 

that far unless you were an exhausted 

110kg turtle trying to walk on flippers after 

a 1,500km swim having just produced 100 

eggs. It took her half an hour, levering 

herself forward a pace at a time, pausing 

to recoup her strength. I spent a couple 

of hours at Praia Grande with a guide 

from Marapa, a marine-conservation 

charity protecting the nesting sites. Half 

a dozen turtles were laying their eggs 

that night, after making the epic trip up 

the beach. The largest was a leatherback 

probably two metres across. Its offspring, 

hatching weeks later, would need that 

turtle heart. Not many would even make 

it to the ocean; fewer than 1% would live 

to maturity. But those that did would 

eventually return to this same beach 

on São Tomé and Príncipe: paradise 

found – for all discerning travellers. 



Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 



This page: Soft, 

colourful corals around 

Lizard Island 

Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 

Opposite: A harvest 

of cocoa pods 

This page: An aerial view of 

a paradisiacal beach cove 


Snow falls on the gassho-zukuri 

farmhouses in the historic village of 

Ogimachi in Shirakawa-gō 


JAPAN 

Winter in Japan can be harsh, but, thanks to the country’s heated 

onsen baths, piping hot noodle bowls and intimate restaurants, the 

freeze also offers the ultimate chance to get cosy. Alicia Miller wraps 

up and explores the snowy spectacle 

can no longer feel my 

toes. That’s all I can think, 

crunching down the narrow, 

icy path, past tall pine trees, 

needles laden with snow, 

along perilous, frigid cliffs. Suddenly 

– finally – I reach my destination: 

Jigokudani, or Hell’s Valley. The name 

suits. Amid the dunes of fresh white that 

carpet this frozen forest, hot streams 

ripple, glassy pools shift and scorching 

waters lap smooth boulders clean. I’ve 

reached an onsen, a Japanese hot spring. 

It’s miles from anywhere – and yet far 

from secret. Before me, bodies teem. They 

slip in and out of the waters, stroking 

and fluffing hair, rubbing pink faces. 

The light is fading, I’m numb from head 

to toe and nothing would be nicer than 

joining them in the steaming pools. 

But it wouldn’t be right, bathing in this 

onsen. Because I’m not a snow monkey. 

Snow monkeys are an only-in-Japan 

sight. Or, more specifically, an only-in- 

Japan winter sight. Officially known as 

Japanese macaques, they’re so-nicknamed 

because when powder blankets the 

ground, they descend in droves from 

their remote mountain habitats for 

thawing dips in hot springs, famously at 

Jigokudani, a dedicated conservation park 

outside Nagano. If you’re lucky, you might 

spot a handful in spring or autumn, but 

they really come into their own when the 

weather turns frosty. As do belly-warming 

bowls of ramen noodle soup, pretty Alpine 

towns and, of course, onsen itself. Most 

travellers flock to Japan for spring cherry 

blossom, or in sultry summer, or to see 

autumn leaves turn – but they don’t know 

what they’re missing. December to March 

is the quietest and cheapest time to visit, 

but winter here has so much more to offer 

besides. This is when the thick clouds 

that cloak Mount Fuji finally melt away, 

revealing its cinematic snowcap against a 

crisp blue sky. It’s when Tokyoites huddle 

in squeezy, smoky bars, stamping their 

feet and slurping rich oden fish stews to 

shake off damp evenings. And it’s when, 

high in the craggy peaks of the Japanese 

Alps, a few hours northwest from the 

capital, and also in Hokkaido, Japan’s 

northern most island, blankets of thick, 

powdery snow bring everything to silence 

and stillness. Under the veil of white, 

landscapes achieve postcard-perfection – 

like real-life Hokusai prints – and it’s as if 

nothing has changed here for centuries. 

In the most picturesque, snowy parts 

it’s icy – minus points on the mercury, 

maybe in double digits – but no matter: 

the Japanese know how to handle a 

freeze. More than that: in the most frigid 

of its regions, they actually appreciate 

the chill – knowing that without 

cold, there’s no such thing as cosy. 

The air was crisp when I touched down 

in the Japanese capital two days before 

meeting those monkeys. I was a Tokyo 

veteran and fell into its frenetic, neon 

embrace as one falls into the arms of 

an old friend. It was rainy and 48 hours 

was just enough to get my fix, visiting 

the parts I’d loved as a resident: the 


JAPAN 

crushing intersection at Shibuya and 

the soaring Tokyo Skytree tower. It was 

just as well, as that time was all I had 

– after all, I wasn’t here for drizzle, but 

for a taste of the real Japanese winter. 

My journey northwest traversed a 

dramatic shift in climate. The bullet 

train rolled out of Tokyo Station 7.52am 

precisely, under a grey haze, and sped 

through boxy suburbs that melted into 

open, flurry-brushed fields. Tokyo had 

been heavy-sweater weather; when I 

stepped out to change to a bus at Nagano 

an hour and a half later, snowflakes 

were dancing in the air. By the time I 

hit Jigokudani in early afternoon, I had 

ascended more than 800 metres and 

the ground was covered in white drifts. 

Comic-book icicles clung to stout old 

homes by the park-entrance gate. It was 

a half-hour trudge along that slippery, 

alabaster path to the monkeys. It was 

cold, but I felt a warm glow the moment 

I saw those adorable, fluffy critters 

dart excitedly into their onsen baths. 

Onsen, if you didn’t know, is actually a 

Japanese ritual for humans. Foreigners 

can get nervous about the complex 

‘ 

ON MY LAST 

DAY, I SPENT THE 

AFTERNOON IN 

THE PARK. NOT 

WANDERING, BUT 

CROSS-COUNTRY 

SKIING 

’ 

etiquette – and the awkward nudity (hot 

springs are entered strictly in the buff, 

men and women segregated). But try an 

alfresco dip in winter and you’ll be forever 

converted: frosty air cooling your neck, 

coddling, mineral-rich water soothing 

your limbs – the chance to savour nature’s 

stimulating contrasts at their best. 

Stepping into the warm outdoor hot 

spring at Hotakaso Sangetsu ryokan was 

like getting a big hug. A bus had whisked 

me here along icing-sugar roads from 

Nagano to remote Hirayu Onsen town, 

from which a silent taxi driver ferried me 

up into the hills. Once in the still, steamcloaked 

waters, with no other company 

but a couple of whispering, wrinkly 

old ladies, I knew the journey had been 

worth it. Beyond my rock-studded pool 

was a panorama of trees and a crinkle 

of whitecapped mountain ranges: the 

Japanese Alps. These folds of icy rock, a 

seam 200km long and higher than 3,000 

metres in places, hold many treasures. 

When I finally emerged from the onsen, 

pink as a peach, I pulled on my yukata 

robe and slippers and made for my 

tatami-mat-lined bedroom. Before long, 

a knock at my door revealed a smiling 

woman with a heaving tray. I ushered 

her in, where she laid an elaborate 

private banquet on a low table: sashimi 

platters; pickles; marbled red beef for 

a DIY hotpot; a flame-licked vessel of 

slow-cooking mushroom rice. Settling 

onto a cushion on the tatami mat floor, 

I surveyed the feast before me, letting 

her carefully explain each dish (in mime 

– her English wasn’t great, my Japanese 

worse). Then she bowed and shuffled 

out the door, leaving me to devour my 

gourmet meal in serenity (and, even 

better, still in the comfort of my robe). 


Opposite: Large 

snowflakes fall in 

busy Shibuya 

This page: A mother 

snow monkey 

cuddles her baby 


JAPAN 

‘ 

MOST TRAVELLERS FLOCK TO JAPAN 

FOR SPRING CHERRY BLOSSOM, OR TO 

SEE AUTUMN LEAVES TURN – BUT THEY 

DON’T KNOW WHAT THEY’RE MISSING 

’ 

While Japan nails the whole cosy-winterhibernation 

thing, I didn’t want to 

spend my entire trip holed up. I filled 

the following days exploring the Alps: 

Takayama, one of country’s prettiest 

towns, its creaky wooden buildings 

housing atmospheric teahouses and 

fragrant saké breweries; Ogimachi, 

peppered with ancient gassho-zukuri 

farmhouses – pointy, snow-strong 

structures that look transplanted from 

Switzerland. Then Matsumoto, with 

its grand old castle and artisan soba 

noodle shops. The time flew by in a 

flurry of snowflakes and soon it was 

time to make for Hokkaido, Japan’s 

northerly isle, a 90-minute flight away. 

I hoped it would be the perfect wintry 

(snowcapped) peak to my trip. 

If I thought it was cold in Jigokudani, 

I hadn’t felt anything yet. Stepping 

out into the city centre in Sapporo, 

Hokkaido’s capital, I faced a new level 

of freeze – piercing, breath-snatching. 

Under a startling blue sky, long, straight 

boulevards radiated out from the 

central station, empty. Below ground, 

however, was a hive of activity: a web of 

interconnecting sub-surface walkways 

ferried scarf-wrapped workers and 

hooded shoppers across the city centre. 

They’d pop up from this underground 

city when they reached their desired 

stop, like dolphins breaching for air, and 

dart across windswept intersections 

into towering silver office blocks. 

Hardened to the chill, these locals may 

grit their teeth on the most blistering 

of days, but they rarely complain. If 

Tokyoites are like Londoners, whingeing 

over a light chill and shaking umbrellas 

through winter, Sapporo’s residents 

are stoic Scandinavians – brave in 

the face of this vast, great iciness. 

That evening, I wandered south from 

my hotel along the gritted streets to 

Suskino, Sapporo’s nightlife district. 

Tummy rumbling, I shivered past 

warren-like izakaya pubs and a lanternlit 

alleyway lined with tiny ramen 

shops, filled with laughing students 

lapping up miso-rich bowlfuls. I longed 

to enter a shop’s warming embrace, 

but held firm: on a tip from a Japanese 

friend, I was out for jingisukan – a DIY 

Mongolian BBQ, the city’s speciality. 

I found the restaurant – and the queue. 

It was below freezing outside and yet a 

row of brave faithfuls stood undeterred 

snaking down an icicle-lined alleyway 

outside cult-favourite Daruma. I joined 

them and minutes ticked by; gradually, 

I lost feeling in my limbs, from the 

ground up. But when the door finally 

opened on my turn, an hour later, I was 

rewarded for my persistence. Perched 

on stools around an oval wooden 

counter, chattering couples sipped 

drinks, while grilling marbled lamb 

on domed hotplates, fired by glowing 

charcoal. I squeezed in and ordered a 

cockle-warming feast, with a flourish of 

fluffy rice, kimchi and a sesame-garlic 

dipping sauce. As I griddled my hunks 

of lamb, fat dripped gorgeously down 

the grill to soften golden onions. By now, 

I’d forgotten all about the cold outside. 

Sapporo and its charms unveil 

themselves slowly, like a gradual 

spring thaw. You can spend a day out 

at frozen lake Shikotsu, enjoying its 

illuminated winter display; another 

soaking at a geyser-studded onsen in 

Noboribetsu town, a train ride away; 

yet another watching rare red-crowned 

cranes dance across fields of ice. Or 

simply keep to the city centre, walking 

through the fish market, stocked 

with lithe, prickly crabs; it’s a treat to 

dine on the sweet, perfectly in-season 

meat in any no-frills restaurant. 

Japanese tourists flock to the city in early 

February. Some ogle the towering ski 

jump, a remnant of the 1972 Olympics; 

most sip frothy brews at the rambling 

Sapporo brewery. But all are here to 

watch artists from around the world 

chisel vast ice sculptures, competing 

for glory in the annual, city-wide Snow 

Festival, the biggest and busiest event of 

the year. On my trip, it hadn’t officially 

started yet, but even the largest of 

scaffolds couldn’t hide the elaborate 

masterpieces taking shape in Sapporo’s 

central Odori strip. Elaborate lifesized 

temples, enormous carvings of 

horse-racers and panoramas of J-pop 

stars all rose proud in the icy mix. 

On my last day, I spent the afternoon 

in the park. Not wandering, as I might 

in spring or autumn – but cross-country 

skiing, past silvery larch trees, over 

gentle, hilly drifts. This being snow 

country, one can hire skis, sleds or even 

show-shoes at Moerenuma Park for 

three hours. I didn’t last quite that long: 

two hours in, my face was whipped by 

wind and my toes were unresponsive 

in my boots. After a couple of slippery 

falls, I felt the chilliest I’d been yet 

and needed to get out of the frosty 

air, fast. So, as dusk washed over the 

city, I hopped in a cab back to vibrant, 

raucous Suskino and took the lift up to 

the second-floor Nikka Bar, overlooking 

a humming traffic intersection. 

Cloaked in dark polished woods 

and rich leathers, the bar’s walls 

were lined with glimmering bottles. 

Socialising salarymen were cloistered 

in corners. I thumbed through the 

menu, before a suited barman poured 

my drink of choice as if it was liquid 

gold. Out the window, in the streets 

below, bundled-up commuters darted 

between tumbling snowflakes. Settling 

into my squishy chair, I felt my cheeks 

warming and my limbs thawing. Then, 

my drink appeared before me and I 

raised the glass to my lips, taking a 

long, slow sip. Rolling it across my 

tongue, I savoured its sharp heat – and 

the frosty hit of ice. Shiveringly good: 

the very essence of winter Japan. 



Credit: Alicia Miller/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 


This page: Soft, 

colourful corals around 

Lizard Island 

Clockwise from above 

left: The icy path to 

hot spring haven Hell's 

Valley; a swan spreads 

its wings in front of 

Mount Fuji; Kyoto's 

historic Higashiyama 

district gets a dusting; a 

steaming bowl of ramen 


long 

the 

weekend 

56 worldtravellermagazine.com 

Marrakech 

Offering a heady blend of 

culture and beauty, Marrakech 

is luring the in-crowd to its 

charming riads, bustling bazaars 

and must-see art attractions 

This page: Sunlight 

penetrates a labyrinthine 

souk in Marrakech 

Opposite: Aromatic spices 

for sale; Royal Mansour 

Marrakech

THE LONG WEEKEND 

Founded almost 1,000 years ago, Marrakech is one of the 

great cities of the Maghreb. Known as the Red City thanks to 

its red clay buildings that swarm the medina, it is easily one of 

the most beautiful and fascinating spots in Morocco. A place 

where Europe, Africa and the Middle East mingle and merge, 

this popular trading hub marries the past and present with an 

energy that can sometimes feel intimidating, but plan it right 

and you’re sure to have the trip of a lifetime. 

Home to atmospheric souks and some of the most 

impressive architecture (both old and new) that you’ll find 

anywhere in the world, nowadays this intoxicating city is 

prized as much for its trendy art galleries, hip hotels and 

fine-dining restaurants as it is for its bazaars and hidden 

palaces. It’s to the famous medina that most visitors gravitate, 

where your senses will be overwhelmed with music, the call 

to prayer and elaborate feasts. Dark alleyways are brimming 

with artisan workshops and sprawling markets in which you 

can wander for hours. Offering a tantalising taste of Africa 

within easy reach, get set to fall in love with Marrakech… 

Revel in a touch of glamour at these stand-out abodes 

If you’re seeking opulence, 

you've come to the right 

place. Home to 53 luxury 

riads, spread across a 

medina filled with alleyways 

and secret doors, Royal 

Mansour Marrakech 

provides a rich introduction 

to Moroccan culture. Be 

sure to dine at the new 

Sesamo Italian restaurant 

by the three-Michelin-Star 

chef Massimiliano Alajmo. 

One of the most 

spectacular residences 

in the city, the Mandarin 

Oriental, Marrakech is 

situated just 20 minutes 

from the city’s main square 

of Jemaa el-Fnaa, and 

with its stunning terracotta 

buildings nestled among 

palm, orange and olive 

trees, it’s the perfect mix of 

splendour and tradition. 

Once home to royalty, 

La Mamounia has been a 

preferred choice among 

A-listers through the 

decades and has hosted 

a glittering array of VIPs 

in its 210 rooms. Set in 

lavish gardens and styled 

with handcrafted Moorish 

opulence, this is the place 

to see and be seen. 

Those craving a cooler, 

more contemporary vibe 

should check out Radisson 

Blu Hotel, Marrakech Carré 

Eden, which called upon a 

chic and savvy Casablanca 

design studio to craft its 

laid-back, mid-century style. 

With a coveted address in 

Guéliz, the city’s hippest 

bars and restaurants are 

just a stone’s throw away. 

... and 

restful 

riads 

Charming, calming and 

every interior designer’s 

dream, Marrakech’s many 

riads offer welcome 

respite from the hustle 

and bustle of the city. A 

quiet oasis situated in 

the heart of the medina, 

LE RIAD YASMINE has 

an idyllic pool, which 

gets a lot of attention, 

but sipping a traditional 

Moroccan mint tea in the 

lounge is equally dreamy. 

One of Marrakech’s 

first boutique riads, EL 

FENN, which is owned by 

Vanessa Branson (sister 

to Richard), is a maze of 

interconnected riads that 

take up an acre of the 

medina. First launched 

to showcase Vanessa’s 

impressive art collection, 

the display is constantly 

re-curated so no two 

visits are ever the same. 

Over 200 years old, 

RIAD TCHAIKANA offers 

stunning views of the 

Atlas Mountains. With 

just five bedrooms, it gets 

booked up fast, so make 

sure you plan in advance. 


Wander 

the souks 

With their bustling 

atmosphere and thrilling 

bargains proving an 

assault on the senses, the 

souks of Marrakech are a 

highlight for any visitor. 

There’s always someone 

ready to greet you at 

these open-air venues, 

where artisans have been 

toiling over their creations 

for centuries. 

Traditional woven 

carpets, aromatic spices, 

colourful lanterns and 

pottery stalls can be 

found in abundance – 

tagine pots, serving plates 

and soup bowls come in 

all sizes, while jewelled 

glassware and ornate 

tea pots make a pretty 

addition to any dining 

room back home. 

Originally dedicated 

to leatherwork, Souq 

Semmarine and Souq 

el-Kebir are the most 

popular street markets 

in the city, and today sell 

practically anything you 

can think of. Prices here 

may be higher than in 

other bazaars, however, 

so if you're willing to travel 

a little bit further north 

to where the specialist 

quissariat (covered 

markets) are located, you 

may be able to find similar 

products for less. 

HAUTE CUISINE 

On top of its famous street food scene, the city 

has made some serious strides into fine dining 

Le Petit Cornichon 

Owned by Erwann Lance, 

who has several Michelinstarred 

restaurants in 

Paris and New York, 

Le Petit Cornichon is 

stylish, contemporary 

and colourful, so it’s no 

surprise that the style set 

gather here. Tuck into 

dishes such as sea bass 

ceviche with grapefruit 

and pink peppercorns 

of tarragon chicken. 

lepetitcornichon.ma 

+61 

Bringing a taste of 

Australia to Morocco, 

chef Andrew Cibej aims 

to capture the laid-back 

culture of the country 

with a modern twist, 

by way of delicious 

dishes designed to 

share. Favourites include 

homemade ricotta with 

roasted red peppers, 

balsamic-glazed lamb 

ribs and chargrilled sirloin 

sandwiches. plus61.com 

LOCAL DELICACIES 

Le Crystal 

Located in the Pacha 

complex, which is also 

home to the famous Ibiza 

nightclub of the same 

name, those seeking a 

touch of glamour should 

definitely pay Le Crystal 

a visit. A Moroccan Italian 

menu comprises the likes 

of shrimp risotto, garlic 

parmesan gnocci and 

foie gras ravioli that are 

definitely worth the price 

tag. pachamarrakech.com 

Craving a taste of authentic Moroccan cuisine? Marrakech is sure to awaken the senses 

through traditional flavours influenced by Spain, Arabia and France, and the streets are 

teeming with these wallet-friendly eateries. Dedicated to empowering disadvantaged 

women through culinary skills, guests can enjoy an ever-changing menu of local dishes 

at Amal Women’s Moroccan Restaurant. For stunning views to accompany your meal, 

Al Baraka, in the heart of the legendary Jemaa el-Fnaa, does some of the best couscous 

in the city. Taste light and simple Moroccan fare at the magical Dar Marjana while the 

belly dancers sway – if you’re feeling adventurous, try the pigeon pie. 


THE LONG WEEKEND 

Opposite from top: 

Le Petit Cornichon; vibrant claypots in 

the bazaar 

This page from top: V.Barkowski 

(Photo: Cecile Zehnacker); inside the 

beautiful Bahia Palace 

Boutique finds 

If it’s one-of-a-kind pieces you’re after, Marrakech 

isn’t short on stylish boutiques that are as unique 

in interior design as they are in merchandise. 

Globetrotting Belgian designer Valerie 

Barkowski’s concept store V. Barkowski is 

reminiscent of a high-end New York loft that 

showcases her fine white bed linens and fluffy 

towels that come delicately trimmed with her 

signature mini pompoms, while Norya Ayron sells 

an array of fashion-forward silk and cotton kaftans 

and abayas loved by the likes of Sharon Stone, 

Monica Belluci and Kate Moss. For medina-style 

streetwear, head to Max & Jan for a selection of 

soft drape dresses, slouchy pants and billowing 

dresses perfect for a summer beach holiday, 

while at Laly, browse the rails for bold capes, 

camo babouche slippers and pochette purses by 

designer Badra Benjelloun. 

Words: Naomi Chadderton 

Ask a local 

Amanda Ponzio- 

Mouttaki, blogger 

at Maroc Mama 

(marocmama. 

com), shares her 

insider tips on how 

to get the most 

out of your trip 

“The best advice I can share 

about visiting Marrakech is to 

have a sense of humour and accept that 

you will get lost in the medina. 

I've found when you can be lighthearted 

and laugh with people it really breaks 

the ice and you’ll end up having a much 

more pleasant experience. One of my 

favourite neighbourhoods is the kasbah, 

because it still has the older charm of 

traditional Marrakech without some 

of the extreme busyness you might 

experience in other areas. Be sure to try 

tangia (not to be confused with tagine) 

when you’re here; it’s the speciality 

dish of Marrakech made with very slow 

roasted lamb, garlic and preserved 

lemons in a clay pot. If you want a 

keepsake to take back home, spices or 

Moroccan tea glasses are easy to pack 

and are sure to be used long after 

you return.” 

CULTURE CRAM 

Delve deeper into the 

city's beating heart 

Marrakech has a 

fascinating and 

complex history, with 

an impressive array of 

museums and sites to 

prove it. Take a walk 

around the Saadian 

Tombs – Saadian 

Sultan Ahmed Al 

Mansour Ed Dahbi 

spared no expense 

in crafting his burial 

site, importing Italian 

Carrara marble for his 

own mausoleum. A 

fascinating piece of 

Marrakech’s historical 

jigsaw, El Badi Palace 

is another great 

attraction and even 

though it largely 

stands in ruins today, 

you won’t have any 

trouble taking a 

journey back in time 

and imagining the 

splendour of the 

palace’s heyday. In 

complete contrast is 

the well-preserved 

Bahia Palace, which 

once housed the 

Resident General 

during the French 

Protectorate. 

If you’re a fashion 

lover, make time 

to visit the Musée 

Yves Saint Laurent 

Marrakech. 

Dedicated to the late 

designer’s work, it 

showcases a rotating 

curation of 5,000 

items of clothing, 

15,000 accessories 

and thousands 

of sketches and 

documents stored 

for four decades. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL 

STAYCATION 

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel 

Holiday like royalty at this quintessentially British beachfront hotel on Palm Jumeirah 

THE ROOMS & SUITES 

Tucked away in the modern heart of 

the city, yet shielded from the hustle 

and bustle, the hotel's modern take on 

a traditional British residence is sure 

to win you over. Every room has been 

elegantly styled to marry centuries 

of age-old charm with contemporary 

glamour. Request a room with glittering 

Arabian Sea views and relax to the sound 

of the waves lapping the shore. 

THE FOOD 

What better way to show someone you 

care than with a romantic candlelit 

dinner on the beach? Savour a threecourse 

meal and a bottle of red or white 

under the twinkling stars as the balmy 

evening breeze washes over you (Dhs1,000 

per couple). Elsewhere at the property, 

Great British Restarant, West 14 th 

Steakhouse, Khyber and the sophisticated 

Duke's Bar compete for your attention. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

Start the new year as you mean to go on 

with an energy-boosting workout at the 

hotel's state-of-the-art gym. Next, get 

some vitamin D by soaking up the gentle 

winter rays as you lounge around the 

infinity pool with a good book in hand. 

Once you're suitably sunbathed, stretch 

your legs by taking a stroll along the 

private beach and end your day on a fun 

note by floating along the lazy river. 

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit royalhideaway.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X SOFITEL DUBAI THE PALM 

STAYCATION 

Sofitel Dubai The Palm 

Perfect the art de vivre at this French-inspired luxury resort on Palm Jumeirah 


Bringing elegant French style to the 

Middle East, this Polynesian-style 

resort is the antidote to the city’s 

ubiquitous skyscraper hotels with its 

tropical understated glamour. Being 

a pebble’s skim from the sea means 

you get to sleep and wake up to the 

gentle swoosh of the waves crashing 

on the shore from any of the stylishly 

appointed rooms and suites. 

THE FOOD 

Meaning "Welcome" in Polynesian, 

Manava serves up world-class dishes in 

a setting straight out of Paul Gaugin's 

Tahitian paintings. But if you're up for 

something with more zest and spice, 

Hong Loong blends timeless Chinese 

recipes to create explosive flavours 

perfectly paired with tea. End your 

evening soaking up the sea view with a 

chilled drink at Laguna Lounge. 


Water babies are in for a treat with a great 

variety of activities on offer. Whether it's 

jetting off on a boat excursion, spending 

a day admiring the cityscape on a pedal 

boat or just lounging on the wide stretch 

of private sandy beach, there's something 

for every taste. A day in the sun might 

wear you down, but a quick trip to the spa 

offers soothing treatments and massages 

that'll leave you in a tranquil bliss. 

To find out more, call +971 4 455 6677 or visit all.accor.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai 

Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel 


Wake up in the clouds and revel in 

stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the 

city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise 

waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites 

boast marshmallow soft beddings 

and soundproof windows for a serene 

slumber, while Executive Rooms come 

with perks including complimentary 

drinks, a continental breakfast and 

afternoon tea in the lounge. 

THE FOOD 

Foodies are spoilt for choice with 

more than 14 dining venues offering a 

selection of delicacies from around the 

world. Splurge on a unique sky-high 

dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before 

heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault. 

To spice it up, the recently opened 

Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves 

traditional recipes from ancient India 

with a contemporary twist. 


Discover the shiniest gems the city has 

to offer with top attractions including 

The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai 

Opera right around the corner. After a 

day out and about, pamper yourself back 

at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray 

Spa. Soothing body massages, bespoke 

facials and holistic rituals draw upon 

the spa's Arabian heritage for a top-totoe 

rejuvenating experience. 

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 


Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the 

Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. 

The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants 

and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 

17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular 

Meeting Spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

1 

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THROUGH 

THE LENS 

Lago di Braies, 

Italy 

"Visiting this majestic lake had 

been on my bucket list for years 

since I first stumbled upon a photo 

story in a magazine proclaiming 

it one of Italy's most beautiful 

lakes. Two flights and a threehour 

drive later, I finally arrived 

at the Dolomites, a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site. As soon as I 

caught sight of the bright emerald 

green waters, I was in awe of their 

breathtaking beauty. In the early 

light, the sight of the reflection of 

the mountains on the lake and the 

charming wooden rowing boats 

was like a fairy tale." 

Travel and photography 

fan Melissa Ngo loves to 

travel because: "it grounds 

me and keeps me humble." 

Follow her at @helloomelissa, 

withlovemelissa.blog 

EMAIL US YOUR BEST 

TRAVEL PHOTOS 

in high-res jpeg format, along 

with the stories behind them to 

habiba@hotmedia.me and you 

may end up being featured 

on this page 


Now win! 

DIGITAL 

BE OUR TRAVEL 

COMPANION 

Stay up-to-date with all that’s 

happening on our social channels 

and join in the conversation by 

sharing your experiences. Here’s 

where you can find us… 

@worldtravellerme 

Double tap our dreamy 

destination shots and tag 

us in your images for a chance to 

feature on our wall. 

@WorldTravellerME 

Stay up to date with travel 

stories as we post them. 

@WTravellerME 

Make the most of your 

280-character allowance 

by sharing your best travel 

moments with us. 

#WorldTravellerME 

Win a two-night stay at 

Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf in Dubai 

Enjoy the very best of Madinat Jumeirah while staying in the Arabian-inspired 

summerhouses of Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf. Ideal for those who favour low-key 

luxury, the summerhouses are nestled in a serene garden setting, just steps away 

from the beach. Enjoy evening drinks with friends old and new before setting off 

on an abra along the waterways to discover the dining delights of this enduringly 

popular Dubai resort, which is home to more than 50 restaurants. To find out 

more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win. (T&Cs apply). 

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 

Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, 

inspire your next trip… 

1The Knowledge. 

Read our handy 

how-tos, from 

getting to grips with 

travel insurance to 

helping kids beat jet 

lag, and more. 

2Staycations. 

Take a peek 

inside these top 

hotels and resorts on 

your doorstep, and 

then book your next 

mini break. 

3Insider guides. 

Check out our 

in-the-know 

travel edits of some 

of the most popular 

holiday destinations 

on our radar. 


Suite dreams 

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite 

that has a character and style all of its own 

TERRACE SUITE SAGRADA FAMILIA 

The One Barcelona, a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts 

Rooms with a view don't come any grander than this; the room in question being a huge, 

daylight-flooded suite bedecked with abundant luxuries, and the view a sweeping one of low-rise 

Barcelona, with Gaudi's unfinished masterpiece Sagrada Familia as its towering focal point. It's 

a sight you can soak in (literally) from the free-standing bathtub in the marble-lined bathroom, 

or, better still, from the alfresco Jacuzzi, on a stunning terrace you can access from every room. 


AT THE EDGE OF THE 

WORLD, WHERE THE SKY 

SWIMS IN SEA BLUE 

this island sanctuary 

welcomes you with breeze 

and birdsong, candlelit dinners 

and infinite views. 

Just daydreams away 

from the buzz of the capital, 

you can lose yourself 

in the peaceful luxury 

of your own perfect universe. 

YOUR EXTRAORDINARY STORY 

Zaya Nurai Island Resort 

#InAbuDhabi 

visitabudhabi.ae

Flavors of Latin America 

Latin American is the name of the game at Garden, where vibrant 

street food from Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Brazil and Argentina are 

taking Dubai by storm. Get Latino fever with your favorite modern 

riffs from tacos to arepas. We hear there’s even a Taco Society. 

Just 

Opened 

Complemented by fun and exciting beverages, 

Garden’s dreamy outdoor setting on the bustling 

terrace will keep you coming back for more! 

Open Sunday - Thursday | 5:30pm - midnight 

JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai 

T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

gardendxb

World Traveller January 2020

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