Voyage 8 - Antarctic Peninsula

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 Volume 2, Issue 8 

Albatros Magazine 

A Visual Journey 

South Shetlands & 

Antarctic Peninsula: The 

Journey of a Lifetime 

THE OFFICIAL VOYAGE LOG OF

Albatros Magazine: A Visual Journey 

Editor-in-Chief: 

Layout & Design: 

Amanda Dalsgaard 

Gaby Pilson 

Front Cover Image: 

Back Cover Image: 

Photography Contributors: 

Weddell seal © Gaby Pilson 

Chinstrap Penguin © Renato Granieri 

Yuri Choufour 

Werner Kruse 

Renato Granieri 

Gaby Pilson 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

TABLE OF CONTENTS 

The Voyage 

Meet the Team 

Day 1: Southward Bound 

The Seven Sisters of Szczecin 

An Unlikely Antarctic Explorer 

Day 2: Rolling Our Way South 

Penguins! Fun Facts for the Antarctic 

Adventurer 

Day 3: King George Island 

Ice is Nice – Glacier Fun Facts 

Whales: Friendly Giants of the Sea 

Day 4: The South Shetlands 

The Geological Structure of the Antarctic 

Peninsula 

Day 5: The White Continent 

When and How the Earth Got Cold 

Day 6: Wildlife of the Antarctic 

Day 7: True Antarctic Conditions 

A Brief History of the Zodiac 

Antarctica: A Continent for Science 

Day 8: Northward Bound 

Fire in the Antarctic 

Day 9: The Beagle Channel 

King of the Southern Winds 

Day 10: Home Again 

By the Numbers 

A Final Note 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

19 

20 

21 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

29 

30 

31

The Voyage 

The following map traces the approximate route that the M/V Ocean Atlantic took during our 

voyage to Antarctica. You can find more information about our day to day activities, landings, and 

excursions on the following pages. We hope that this magazine serves as a reminder of all of the 

wonderful memories you made while experiencing the Antarctic with us at Albatros Expeditions. 

3 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Meet the Team 

4 

Phil Hunter 

Assistant Expedition 

Leader 

Jamie Watts 

Expedition Leader 

Marieke Egan 

Assistant Expedition 

Leader 

Shelli Ogilvy 

Zodiac Master 

Thomas Morgensen 

Kayak Guide 

Steve Egan 

Kayak Master 

Heidi Ahvenainen 

Equipment Master 

Nadine Smith 

Shop Manager 

Rose Li 

Translator & Guide 

Guillaume de Remacle 

Lecturer & Guide 

Renato Granieri 

Photographer 

Steve Traynor 

First Aid Responder 

Mark Hebert 

Lecture & Guide 

Amanda Dalsgaard 


Martin Shuster 


Daniel Wu 


Thomas Bauer 


Ye Li 

Shop Assistant 

Deng Weixi 


Sarah Hoffritz 


Chen Zhongyuan 


Natalie Gillis 


27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

5 

Southward Bound 

27 December 2019 - Embarkation Day 

As our flights touched down on the runway in 

Ushuaia, we were treated to delightful views of 

Tierra del Fuego and the city that marks the start of 

our Antarctic adventure. Weary from our recent 

flights, yet excited for the adventure to come, we 

made our way to the port of Ushuaia. 

Walking down the long commercial pier in Ushuaia, 

we got our first sighting of the ship that would 

become our home for the next ten days – the M/V 

Ocean Atlantic. After snapping some photos of our 

trusty chariot, we embarked the Ocean Atlantic, 

receiving a warm welcome from the ship’s hotel 

department and our Expedition Team. 

Upon arriving in the lobby of the Ocean Atlantic, we 

were accompanied up to Viking Lounge where we 

checked in to the hotel and shown to our cabins. 

Soon enough, we head back up to the Nordic Coffee 

Bar for a scrumptious afternoon tea before the 

evening’s festivities. Not long after we had our last 

cup of tea and, perhaps, one scone too many, it was 

time for our mandatory safety drill in the late 

afternoon. 

After our safety drill, we had an opportunity to wander 

around the ship and acquaint ourselves with our new 

home. Before long, however, we gathered up in the 

Viking Lounge yet again for an introductory briefing 

with Expedition Leader Shelli Ogilvy and her 22 

expedition team staff members before heading to the 

first of many fantastic dinners in the Vinland 

Restaurant. 

Soon enough, we were casting away the bowlines, 

heading away from our safe harbour, and journeying 

out to sea, in true expedition style. As we’re on an 

expedition, we know full well that there are no 

guarantees. We are at the mercy of the weather, the 

wildlife, and the landscape of this cold and often 

inhospitable place. 

But, as explorers know all too well, we can only ever 

experience true beauty in nature when we are brave 

enough to seek it out amongst the mountains and the 

seas in the world’s most remote places. It is with that 

sentiment in mind that we venture away from Ushuaia 

and south, to the future and all the wonders it holds. 

“We can only ever experience true 

beauty in nature when we are 

brave enough to seek it out… “ 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

The Seven Sisters of Szczecin 

David MacDonald, Lecturer (Geology) & Expedition Guide 

6 

M/V Ocean Atlantic was launched in 1986 as the last-built of the ‘Shoshtakovich’ class of ice-strengthened 

passenger vessels, alongside six sister ships, together known as the “Seven Sisters of Szczecin. 

Her original name was Konstantin Chernenko 

(Константин Черненко), after the President of the 

USSR (1984-1985). She was renamed Russ (Русс) in 

1989, and spent much of her life working in the Russian 

Far East. 

She was purchased by Albatros Expeditions and 

completely refitted in 2017. She is now a 200- 

passenger expedition vessel and is one of the strongest 

polar cruise ships afloat. Here are some fun facts about 

the “Seven Sisters”: 

• All seven ships were built by Stocnia Szczecinska 

shipyard in Szczecin, Poland between 1979-1986 

• Main engines: 4 x Skoda Sulzer 6LZ40 total power 

12800 kW, giving a maximum speed of 18 knots 

• Most of the class have one bow thruster (736 kW) 

and one stern thruster (426 kW); however, two 

ships, including ours, built in 1986, have two stern 

thrusters, each of 426 kW 

• Feature Siemens stabilisers for seaworthiness 

• Although built as ferries, they have a strengthened 

car deck for transport of tanks 

• Two of them had diving chambers 

• MV Mikhail Sholokov had hull demagnetising 

equipment so it could operate in minefields 

• All of these ships have been scrapped except ours 

and Konstantin Simonov – now Ocean Endeavour 

Our ship has had a complex history: 

1986-1987 In Baltic traffic, then Vladivostok to 

Japan & S Korea 

1989 renamed to Russ 

1997-1999 In traffic Stockholm-Riga; 2000 

Odessa-Haifa; 2002 back to 

Vladivostok transporting cars from 

Japan 

2007 Sold to Sea Ferry Shipping in Majuro 

and renamed 2010 to Atlantic; 

renovations in Italy and in traffic 

Stockholm-Helsinki-St. Petersburg 

during summer and laid up (October 

2010) in St Petersburg 

2012 Sold to ISP in Miami and renamed to 

Ocean Atlantic under Marshall 

Islands flag 

2013 Used as a hotel ship in the German 

bight wind farm project 

2015-2017 Laid up in Helsingborg and taken to 

Gdansk in Poland, where totally 

refitted 

2017 Chartered to Quark Expeditions 

2017-present Chartered to Albatros Expeditions. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

An Unlikely Antarctic Explorer 

Gregers Gjersøe – Snowshoe Master & Expedition Guide 

In a suburb of Wellington, New Zealand, the local 

cemetery is home to a rather unassuming grave. 

The final resting place of Henry “Chippy” McNish, 

one of the survivors of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s 

1914 Endurance Expedition, the grave is also a 

memorial to one of the most improbable of 

Antarctic explorers. 

McNish himself was a carpenter onboard the 

Endurance, though he didn’t travel alone. During 

the expedition, McNish brought along a cat that 

followed him around like an overpossessive 

wife. Soon enough, the 

crew named the cat Mrs. Chippy, 

although the expedition quickly 

realised that Mrs. Chippy was a 

gentleman, not a lady. 

Mrs. Chippy was an unusual cat, 

though an avid adventurer, 

having climbed the Endurance’s 

rigging lines on several 

occasions. Mrs. Chippy also did 

some very provocative strolls 

across the roofs of the dogs’ kennels 

and even once fell into the frigid water 

below. Thankfully, the crew heard her cries and 

quickly turned the ship around so they could 

pluck her up from the icy cold waters and get her 

to safety. 

Also onboard the Endurance was a young man - 

Perce Blackborow. Perce had travelled to Buenos 

Aires looking for new employment, but wasn’t 

hired; at 18, his youth and inexperience counted 

against him. Somehow, he managed to sneak 

aboard the ship, and he hid in a clothing locker 

for three days. Eventually, he was discovered, 

and Shackleton was furious with him, but was 

sent to work in the galley where he became great 

friends with Mrs. Chippy. 

In January of 1915, the Endurance got trapped in 

the Antarctic pack ice. McNish's work prevented 

the ship from flooding, but he couldn’t do 

anything to stop it from being crushed. The ship 

was abandoned and, much to McNish’s despair, 

Shackleton ordered Mrs. Chippy to be shot, as 

they couldn’t take her on their survival journey. 

Now, the group had to make it back to safety. For 

months, the expedition drifted through icy 

waters until they made it to Elephant Island. 

Once at Elephant Island, Shackleton set out 

in a 22-foot-long open boat and made 

an 800-mile crossing through the 

rough waters of the South Atlantic 

to South Georgia. McNish was 

one of the five men who 

accompanied Shackleton, 

making improvements to the 

boat to make the voyage 

possible. 

For the next fifteen years, McNish 

lived a difficult life in Wellington 

before passing away in 1930. He never 

forgave Shackleton for shooting Mrs. 

Chippy. 

Nearly 30 years later, in 1959, the New Zealand 

Antarctic Society realised that McNish had been 

given a very poor burial in an unmarked grave. 

The Society raised funds for a headstone and 

even reunited McNish and Mrs. Chippy by adding 

a life-sized bronze statue of Mrs. Chippy to the 

grave. 

Now Karori Cemetery near Wellington is a 

pilgrimage site for Antarctic history buffs, who 

visit McNish’s grave and see Mrs. Chippy 

watching over him once again. 

7 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Rolling Our Way South 

28 December 2019 – Drake Passage 

By Steve Traynor 

8 

While some awoke to the dulcet tones of 

Expedition Leader Jamie Watt’s voice at 7:45am, 

most of us were already up and about, excited to 

see what the first full day of our adventure had to 

offer. 

A relatively calm first day of our Drake Passage 

crossing had most in fine spirits. Breakfast and the 

lecture by Albatros Expedition Team’s 

ornithologist, Guillaume, on “Seabirds”, were both 

well attended. Following the completion of this 

lecture, Guillaume invited all attendees to the 

stern of the ship to try and spot some of the birds 

for themselves. 

Another lecture was offered shortly after to assist 

with getting that perfect picture of the birds in 

flight. Our onboard Photographer Renato 

presented his “Introduction to Photography” with 

great advice on how to adjust your camera for the 

ideal settings for the white continent. 

The afternoon activities began with a mandatory 

briefing about “Visiting Antarctica” in which we 

were all reminded of how we are expected to 

behave in this environment and how to leave it 

pristine. The briefing was followed by an 

opportunity for all guests to bring their outer 

wear for inspection and cleaning by the 

Expedition team to ensure that the biosecurity 

requirements were met. All throughout the day’s 

activities, the Albatros Expedition team was 

keeping lookout from the bridge in the hope of 

spotting marine life. 

Afternoon tea time brings a break to the 

afternoon and a chance for even more delicious 

snacks, with guests soon realising they will not go 

hungry on this ship. For those interested in the 

Kayak program a preliminary briefing was held in 

the Viking Lounge to explain how the program 

runs. 

Following the lectures, we all met for a beautiful 

buffet lunch in the Vinland Restaurant. The first 

taste of Chef Indra’s lunch selection did not 

disappoint, with many guests commenting on 

how nice the food was and how they appreciated 

the Chinese style cuisine. 

The afternoon activities began with a mandatory 

briefing about “Visiting Antarctica” in which we 

were all reminded of how we are expected to 

behave in this environment and how to leave it 

pristine. The briefing was followed by an 

opportunity for all guests to bring their outer 

wear for inspection and cleaning by the 

Expedition team to ensure that the biosecurity 

requirements were met. All throughout the day’s 

activities, the Albatros Expedition team was 

keeping lookout from the bridge in the hope of 

spotting marine life. 

© Renato Granieri 

It’s always nice to meet the most important man 

on the vessel, and in the evening, Captain Nicolai 

invited everyone to the Viking Lounge for a 

cocktail and a chance to introduce himself and 

meet the senior officers. Champagne and 

canapes were enjoyed before a final dinner in the 

Vinland Restaurant. To wrap up the evening, we 

finished with a screening of “Frozen Planet” in 

the Viking Lounge. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Penguins! Fun Facts for the Antarctic Adventurer 

Gaby Pilson, Hiking Master & Expedition Guide 

For many of us, the chance to see penguins waddling around in the snowy vastness of Antarctica is the reason 

that we came to the White Continent. These charismatic sea birds are a fan-favourite for visitors to Antarctica, 

but even cuddly-looking penguins are incredibly well adapted to one of the harshest environments on Earth. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

Depending on what book you read, there are 19 

species of penguins. If you count all of the 

subspecies, there are 25 total varieties of 

penguins in the world, however, there are only 

four truly Antarctic species of penguins: the 

Adélie, Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Emperor. All of 

the other penguins in the world live south of the 

equator yet north of Antarctica, with the 

exception of one species in the Galapagos whose 

range barely crosses into the northern 

hemisphere. 

The largest penguin to have ever lived was the 

now-extinct mega penguin, which weighed some 

115 kg. These days, the largest penguin is the 

Emperor Penguin, which tips the scales at 23 kg. 

Alternatively, the smaller gentoo penguin weighs 

just 15 kg. 

Although they nest, breed, and socialize on land, 

penguins rely on the sea for survival. As 

swimming and diving birds, penguins are adept 

at fishing and must head to the ocean for their 

sustenance. Indeed, the deepest diving bird in 

the world is the Emperor Penguin, with a 

record-breaking dive of 535 meters! 

Penguins are amazing swimmers. They spend 

much of their day searching for food in the 

ocean, particularly for their favourite meal of 

krill, squid, and small fish. The fastest swimming 

penguin is the Gentoo, which is known to reach 

speeds of upwards of 50 kilometres an hour 

while zooming through the water. 

Penguins are highly social birds, choosing to 

nest in large colonies, where they will also raise 

their young. Many penguin chicks, after 

hatching stay with their parents for a few weeks 

to a few months before forming large “crechés,” 

many hundreds of individual teenage penguins 

in size. 

9 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

King George Island 

29 December 2019 – Drake Passage & Great Wall Station 

Written by Thomas Bauer 

10 

After a very calm crossing of the Drake Passage, 

we approached the South Shetland Islands. During 

the night we had also sailed south of 60 degrees S 

and had thus entered the Antarctic Treaty area. 

We had gone through the Antarctic convergence 

where the cold waters of the south sink below the 

warmer waters of the north and where the 

upwelling of nutrients provides a plentiful feeding 

ground for marine life. 


As we approached our first planned landing site, 

China’s Great Wall Station, excitement was 

building on board to get ashore. The station could 

be clearly seen from the ship and the wind was 

within an acceptable range that indicated that a 

landing would be possible. 

After lunch the first group of guests embarked on 

their zodiac rides to Great Wall Station. Light rain 

was falling but this did not dampen the spirit and 

excitement of visiting the station. Highlights were 

visits to the museum that displays information on 

the Chinese presence in Antarctica dating back to 

the establishment of the station in 1985, the year 

that China became a consultative party of the 

Antarctic Treaty. Other points of interest were the 

signpost with directions to many places in China, a 

large rock with Great Wall Station written in 

Chinese characters and the giant bell. 

By late afternoon, we were all back on board to 

attend the briefing for tomorrow’s plans and a 

recap. The most energetic of us participated in an 

evening of square dancing after dinner. 

In the morning, we all attended another 

mandatory safety briefing that introduced us to 

the expected behaviour in the zodiacs that will 

take us ashore and that will provide viewing 

platforms for wildlife during cruises. 

Later, we were all issued with rubber boots that 

would keep our feet dry during wet landings and 

ashore in the snow. We were also provided with 

life vests that would keep us safe in the unlikely 

event that one of us might fall over board during a 

zodiac excursion. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Ice is Nice – Glacier Fun Facts 

Gaby Pilson, Hiking Master & Expedition Guide 

Glaciers have, quite literally, shaped our world. Without glaciers, the rolling hills and wide valleys we know 

today would look very different, but it turns out that these icy giants have a much longer and more storied 

history than many of us would initially suspect. Here are some of the best fun facts about glaciers: 

11 

1 

Not just anything can be a glacier. In fact, there’s 

a size requirement that a piece of ice has to 

meet to become a glacier. Anything considered a 

glacier must be at least 0.1 km 2 (nearly 25 acres) 

in area to be worthy of the name. Although 

there’s a minimum size requirement to be 

considered a glacier, there’s no upper limit to 

glacierhood. The longest glacier on earth is the 

Lambert Glacier of Antarctica, which measures 

out to some 434 km (270 mi) long. The world’s 

largest non-polar glacier is the Fedchenko 

Glacier of Tajikistan, which measures a 

respectable 77km (48mi) long. 


2 


Glaciers are formed by snowflakes. Although it’s 

crazy to think that a tiny snowflake can create 

something as large as a glacier, without snow, 

glaciers would never exist in the first place. To 

form a glacier, massive amounts of snow must 

accumulate and persist in a single location all 

year long for hundreds, if not thousands of 

years. During this time, the individual snowflakes 

found in the snowpack change in a process 

known as snowflake metamorphosis, where 

individual ice grains fuse together and get bigger 

and air bubbles get smaller. Once the icepack 

builds up enough mass to start flowing downhill, 

then, voila! We have a glacier. 

3 

Glaciers are found all over the world, not just in 

the polar regions. While the majority of glaciers 

and glacial ice is concentrated in high northern 

and southern latitudes, glaciers are found even 

near the equator, such as on Mount Kilimanjaro 

in Tanzania and in the mountains of Ecuador. 

That being said, about half of the world’s 

200,000 glaciers are found in one place: Alaska. 

There, glaciers cover a whopping 72,500 km 2 

(28,000 mi 2 ) of the US state’s total area. That’s a 

lot of ice. 

© Werner Kruse 

4 

Glaciers are basically really, really, really slow-moving rivers. To be considered a glacier, a large mass of ice 

must be physically moving downhill. This movement downhill is driven by gravity and is the main reason 

why glaciers also act as major agents of erosion. Since glaciers move downhill, they often remove and 

transport large boulders and chunks of rock, depositing them much further downhill then where they 

started. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Drake 

Passage 

© Yuri Choufour 

© Yuri Choufour © Yuri Choufour 


27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Whales: Friendly Giants of the Sea 

Amanda Dalsgaard – Lecturer (Marine Biology) and Expedition Guide 

13 

When one talks about whales, we must acknowledge 

the vast diversity of whales on earth and the 

uniqueness of each species. All whales fall into an 

order of marine mammals known as Cetaceans. The 

scientists who first discovered and named this order of 

marine mammals, used the word cetacean or 

‘ceatacea’ from the Greek word ‘ketos,’ meaning 

monster. 

Long ago, when whales were first scientifically 

observed and recorded, people believed they were 

monsters, due to their incredible size compared to 

humans. Today, we know much more about the gentle 

giants that roam our planet’s seas. Thanks to a number 

scientific and technological advances, our knowledge 

of these creatures will only continue to grow. 

The order Cetacea is divided into two sub-orders, 

Odontocete and Mysticeti. Odontocete, meaning 

‘toothed-whale’, includes all of the whales and 

dolphins with teeth. Mysticeti comes from the Latin 

root meaning “mustache”, and includes all of the 

whales that have baleen plates in their mouth instead 

of teeth.. 

Since whales are marine mammals, they must breath 

air to survive. They do so by breathing at the water’s 

surface through their blow holes. 

Interestingly enough, however, toothed whales have 

only one blow hole or spout, while baleen whales have 

two. Plus, many whales can be identified from afar 

using the size and shape of their spout blow as well. 

For example, grey whales tend to have spouts shaped 

like hearts, while orcas have low bushy spouts. It’s 

important to keep these differences in mind when 

trying to observe whales from a ship as this 

information can help identify cetaceans from far away 

Another distinguishing characteristic that sets these 

two sub-orders apart is the way that they 

communicate. Odontocetes use a method of 

communication called echolocation. This is best 

described as a series or clicks and precise sounds that 

are then reflected back to the animal and allows the 

whale to ‘see’ their environment through noise. It is 

the same communication style used by bats in 

terrestrial ecosystems. Mysticetes on the other hand, 

communicate through a variety of low-frequency 

songs. These songs have been described by scientists 

as being beautiful, mysterious and sometimes gloomy, 

with the males being the most active singers of the 

Mysticeti clan. 

Regardless of the kind of whale you see however, any 

encounter with one of these graceful marine giants, 

however brief, is sure to be a memorable experience 

for years to come. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Touchdown on the Continent! 

30 December 2019 – Portal Point & Orne Harbor 

14 

Overnight we have sailed south and reached the 

Antarctic Peninsula with its towering mountains and 

calving glaciers. This was the real beginning of our 

Antarctic adventure. We woke up to a new day and 

were greeted with calm seas and low hanging clouds. 

Our first landing in Antarctica was nothing less than a 

continental landing. For many of us this meant we 

have now stood on all seven continents! 

Portal Point lies northeast of the Reclus Peninsula 

and was once home to a British hut Cape Reclus that 

was established in 1956. The hut has been removed 

from the site and only the foundation remains on the 

site today. We had a chance to enjoy the company of 

Weddell seals and Brown Skuas while admiring all 

the shades of white and blue surrounding us. The 

lucky ones also had a chance to spot all three of the 

penguin species we would be seeing on our 

expedition; Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie penguins 

. 

The landing site at Portal Point was overtaken by 

Weddell seals which meant that the expedition 

team, led by our expedition leader Jamie, had to 

move to a different location. While waiting to get on 

to the zodiacs at the gangway we were treated to a 

truly magnificent show; A breaching humpback 

whale appeared right next to the ship in front of the 

gangway door. We couldn’t have asked for a better 

welcome from the locals. 

In the afternoon our destination was Orne Harbour 

in the west coast of Graham Land discovered by the 

British Antarctic Expedition under Gerlache in 1898. 

However, we were quickly introduced to the 

unpredictable and powerful weather of Antarctica. 

The scout boat was sent out to see the conditions on 

the landing site with some of our most experienced 

expedition guides. The wind was blowing at 30 knots 

and by the time the scout boat made it back on 

board the wind gust was approaching 40 knots. For 

safety reasons the landing was cancelled and we had 

our first experience of the power of Antarctic 

weather. Instead of landing, we had an opportunity 

to learn more about the different penguins and seals 

of Antarctica from our ornithologist and marine 

biologist Guillaume and Amanda. 

After stepping first time on the Antarctic continent, 

many wildlife encounters and changing weather, it 

was time to head to bed and prepare for the last day 

of the decade. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

The Geological Structure of the Antarctic Peninsula 

David Macdonald, Lecturer (Geology) & Expedition Guide 

This cartoon shows what the Antarctic Peninsula looked like 100 million years ago (mya). The main points to 

note are: 

• The peninsula was a continuation of the Andes. They were connected until 35 mya 

• The peninsula was a volcanic arc from about 200 mya3 until about 25 mya 

• Volcanism ended 50 mya in the south and 20 mya off Brabant Island 

• Only the South Shetlands Islands have any volcanic activity now 

15 

There are three main geological domains, each formed of multiple rock units: 

1. The basement domain (grey and brown colours) contains sediments scraped off the ocean floor which were 

changed by heat and pressure (metamorphosed) in the subduction zone and during folding and 

deformation. These metamorphic rocks span a wide range of ages from 299-65 mya. They tend to be older 

on the east coast of the peninsula. These rocks are best seen in Paradise Harbour, at the shag colony near 

Brown Station. 

2. The igneous domain contains rocks crystallised from magma. This includes both plutonic rocks (where the 

magma crystallised slowly within the earth’s crust) and volcanic rocks (where the magma was erupted as 

lava and ash). Again, the rocks span a wide range of ages from about 210-25 mya, and the younger rocks 

tend to be in the west. These are the commonest rocks seen in the Peninsula and are well displayed in the 

South Shetland Islands (e.g. Half Moon Island, or Yankee Harbour) or on the peninsula (e.g. Cuverville 

Island). Plutonic rocks form Goudier Island at Port Lockroy. 

3. The sedimentary domain contains rocks eroded from the volcanic arc and deposited in sedimentary basins, 

either on the eastern, Weddell Sea side (in a very large structure called the Larsen Basin), or in smaller 

basins to the west (the largest of which is the Fossil Bluff Basin on Alexander Island). Sedimentary rocks are 

not seen on most peninsula cruises (unless they visit the area of James Ross Island), although there are 

sedimentary rocks with abundant fossils interbedded with volcanic rocks west of Hannah Point, in Walker 

Bay. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

The White Continent 

31 December 2019 – Cuvervillle Island & Paradise Harbour 

By Sara Hoffritz 

16 

The last day of the year started with an early morning 

call before we touched ground with the steep-sided 

and dome shaped Cuverville Island. The kayakers got 

their first try with the paddles around the icebergs by 

the island. A few whales made an appearance for the 

zodiac cruising while the landing visit was influenced 

by a colony full of gentoo penguins. Several of the 

penguins were lying on the small piles of rocks that 

they build for nests. 

Cuverville Island was named by Adrien de Gerlache 

during his Belgian Antarctic Expedition in 1897-1899. 

The name comes from J.M.A. Cavelier de Cuverville, 

who was a vice admiral in the French Navy. The island 

is located at the entrance of the Errera Channel, which 

is flanked by tall mountains on each side, with glaciers 

coming down to meet the ocean. 

After a much needed lunch, we arrived at our next 

location, Paradise Bay. The wind laid low, so the 

afternoon was spent kayaking, zodiac cruising and a 

small hike around on land. Both of the sea-based 

activities offered beautiful views of the surrounding 

cliffs and wildlife. The hike started at the Argentinian 

based Brown Station, and continued through a small 

gentoo penguin colony and up the mountain slope 

where stunning views of the mountains, fjords, 

icebergs and even the ship awaited. 

As the afternoon came to and end we headed back to 

the ship for a quick briefing and recap, we all shared a 

festive dinner followed by a marvelous New Years 

Countdown show hosted by the one and only Rose Li. 

At the show several guests choose to take advantage of 

the opportunity to share their skills in the talent show, 

which included a beautiful array of singing, dancing, tai 

chi, kung-fu and much more. It was incredible end to 

not just a year, but also a decade and a magical place to 

celebrate the beginning of 2020! 


27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

When and How the Earth Got Cold 


The Earth’s climate has two end-member states: 

greenhouse and icehouse. In a greenhouse climate, 

there are no polar icecaps (although there may be 

valley glaciers in high mountain areas) – the climate of 

the Cretaceous Period (144-65 million years ago) is a 

typical greenhouse. We are currently in an icehouse 

climate, since there are icecaps at or near both poles. 

Although life on Earth goes back 3.5 billion years, the 

main expansion in numbers of species and hence of 

easily found fossils occurred 540 million years ago. 

During the time from then until now, greenhouse 

climates have dominated, with three periods of 

icehouse climate, lasting a total of about 100 million 

years. Our current icehouse period began abruptly 35 

million years ago, with formation of an icecap in 

Antarctica. Why did it happen then, and why did it have 

such an abrupt beginning? 

Water temperature (°C) 

Antarctic convergence 

October 2019 

8 

6 

4 

2 

0 

54 56 58 60 62 64 

Latitude (°S) 

17 

Figure 2: Temperatures in the Drake Passage from Friday 25 

October to Sunday 27 October 2019 as Ocean Atlantic sailed south 

across the Antarctic Convergence, where the sea temperature falls 

below 4°C. 

It was the severing of the link between the Antarctic 

Peninsula and Tierra del Fuego that allowed deep cold 

water to circulate around the planet at 50-60°S and 

thermally isolate Antarctica from the rest of the world. 

This situation continues today (Figure 1) 

The key area for this was the Drake Passage, which is 

the western end of the Scotia Sea (Figure 3). Geological 

and geophysical studies of the sea floor show that the 

Antarctica-South America link was severed by the 

growth of ocean crust, beginning 35 million years ago. 

Opening of this deep-water gateway cooled the planet 

and turned Antarctica into the white continent. 

Figure 1: Thermal structure of the Southern Ocean showing the 

position of the Antarctic Convergence (Polar Front) at the junction 

of the dark blue and mid blue shading. This is the line of the 4°C 

isotherm, where Antarctic surface water plunges below cold 

temperate water. 

The first, and most important factor was that we had a 

polar continent. Antarctica was in roughly its present 

position over the South Pole, so would have had 

strongly differentiated winters and summers. However, 

although the former supercontinent of Gondwana had 

largely broken up by then, there was still a land bridge 

to South America and Antarctica was still forested, 

probably with a migratory fauna. Warm currents bathed 

Antarctica’s shores and, 35 million years ago, the 

temperature of the Southern Ocean was a relatively 

mild 6°C. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Figure 3: The Drake Passage and the Scotia Sea formed from 50 

million years ago, when there was slow extension between South 

America and the Antarctic Peninsula which stretched the crust and 

allowed surface waters to circulate through this former land 

bridge. The temperature of the southern Ocean fell from 12°C to 

6°C between 50-35 million years ago, then abruptly fell to 0°C 

when the deep water gateway of the scotia Sea opened, sundering 

the link between Antarctica and South America and allowing 

continuous circulation of deep water, thermally isolating 

Antarctica. 

Volume 2, Issue 8







27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 2, Issue 8 8

New Year’s Day 

1 January 2020 – Port Lockroy & Damoy Point 

Written by Natalie Gillis 

19 

We could not let the fantastic weather and blue skies 

go to waste, so a BBQ lunch was served on the outer 

decks to celebrate the picturesque landscape and 

favourable conditions that we found ourselves 

surrounded by. 


For the first day of 2020 we were gifted with a day of 

beautiful blue skies and fantastic conditions for 

exploring Port Lockroy and Damoy Point in the 

Neumayer Channel off the Antarctic Peninsula. As 

we started our day’s operations the thick broken 

layer of clouds that had been lingering over us slowly 

began to lift, revealing the tops of jagged peaks and 

impossibly massive glaciers hanging off of the 

mountains of Anvers and Wiencke Island. A flurry of 

excitement followed as we landed at the fabled 

British Antarctic Survey Base A: Port Lockroy, to 

explore both the historical intrigue of the island as 

well as its more contemporary gift shop and penguin 

post-office. Our hopes for signings of newborn chicks 

were realized for the first time this year, as many 

penguin nests were full of the joy that comes with 

recently hatched eggs and fluffy miniature penguins, 

yet still too young to stand unprotected by their 

guardians. Many letters were stamped and mailed, 

and many souvenirs were bought as zodiacs full of 

awe-struck explorers discovered the sunken whale 

bones and sleeping Weddell seals that surrounded 

the tiny base. 

In the afternoon, a very short transit around the 

corner brought us to Damoy Point where we were 

able to cruise a maze of grounded out icebergs of 

impossible shapes and brilliant blues. Our landing 

afforded us the opportunity to stretch our legs and 

experience walking through the deep snow that 

blankets so much of the Antarctic, and get up close 

and personal with so many of the penguins that call 

this corner of the world home during the Austral 

summer. 

We returned to the ship, having started off the new 

year in the best possible way, surrounded by 

incredible beauty and happy people. 


27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Deception Island 

2 January 2020– Whalers Bay 

Written by Steve Egan 

Moody skies, drizzled grey over the Bransfield 

Straight, greeting early risers on Ocean Atlantic. We 

were travelling north, leaving the Antarctic Peninsula 

to our final destination, perched in the island chain 

of the South Shetlands. 

. 


20 

After breakfast, weather and seas settled down, as 

we settled in to the lounge to hear more about the 

singularly most important creature in Antarctica, 

food for all of her iconic creatures, Antarctic Krill. 

Scuba Steve gave us an excellent explanation of their 

biology & their role in the food web, drawing a big 

crowd with many questions. After a cup of tea, Sara 

chimed in with a great presentation on Antarctic 

Geology, taking us on a monumental & continental 

journey with the Great Southern Continent, from its 

early formation, through its various dramatically 

contrasted evolutions. Applause for her efforts in the 

theatre were mimicked by humpback whales just 

after she finished her talk, whales appearing near 

the ship, fluke (tail) and pectoral fin slapping had us 

all with faces pressed at the windows to watch their 

antics. 


Deception Island was named for this opening in what 

otherwise appears to be an island fortressed by 

cliffs, allowing access to her large inner harbour. This 

relatively safe and protected bay in her interior, 

along with her prime position in the rich Southern 

Ocean, made the island a popular location and base 

for sealing operations and shore based whaling. 

Once we began our afternoon operation, zodiacs 

whisked guests to shore to explore the ruins of the 

early industry days and stretch their legs along the 

shoreline. Phil kindly offered those groups awaiting 

an outing some more depth on the whaling industry 

in his onboard presentation. 

Various international science bases have found the 

islands sheltered position and unique geology 

particularly fascinating for research. Recent 

eruptions in living memory have certainly given 

many scientists some lively field work stories to tell. 

Our own voyage erupted into festivities as our ship’s 

gangway morphed into a scene of swimsuits, 

madness and vodka-infused reverie as scores of 

guests braved the freezing waters to polar plunge 

from the loading platform, cheered on by a big 

crowd from the outer decks. A lovely social dinner, 

followed by cocktail and spa demonstrations, then 

music in the theatre, rounded out a day of highlights 

as we sailed north for Argentina. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Gerlache Strait 

Lemaire Channel 





Deception Island 


27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

A Brief History of the Zodiac 

Steve Traynor, Zodiac Master 

In expedition cruising, the most important tool we use is the Zodiac inflatable boat. These manoeuvrable, 

reliable, robust vessels are the workhorse of the expedition cruise industry, from the north of Svalbard to 

the southern end of the Antarctic Peninsula. They have a long history – as you can see from the stages 

below, many different inventions needed to come together to create the craft we use today. 

1838 Charles Goodyear (USA) discovered the process for vulcanising rubber (a US patent was granted 

in 1844) – this process is used for hardening and strengthening rubber. 

1843 Goodyear’s process was stolen by Thomas Hancock (UK) using the process of reverse 

engineering; less controversially, Hancock invented the “masticator” – a machine for re-using 

rubber scraps – this made the rubber industry much more efficient. 

1845 The first successful inflatable boat (Halkett boat) was designed by Lieutenant Peter Halkett 

(UK), specifically for Arctic operations. Halkett Boats were used by the Orcadian explorer, John 

Rae, in his successful expedition to discover the fate of the Franklin Expedition. 

1866 Four men made the first crossing of the Atlantic Ocean from New York to Britain on a threetube 

inflatable raft. 

1896 The original Zodiac company was founded by Maurice Mallet (France) to produce airships. 

1909 The first outboard motor was invented by Ole Evinrude in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

1912 The loss of the Titanic and subsequent shipping losses during World War 1 proved the need for 

inflatable rafts for use as supplementary lifeboats. 

1919 RFD firm (UK) and the Zodiac company (France) started building inflatable boats. 

1934 The airship company, Zodiac, invented the inflatable kayak and catamaran 

1942 The Marine Raiders – an elite unit of the US Marine Corps – used inflatable boats to carry out 

raids and landings in the Pacific theatre. 

1950 Alain Bombard first combined the outboard engine, a rigid floor and an inflatable boat (built by 

the Zodiac company). 

1952 Alain Bombard crossed the Atlantic Ocean with his inflatable; after this, his good friend, the 

famous diver Jacques-Yves Cousteau, started using them. 

1960 Zodiac licensed production to a dozen companies in other countries because of their lack of 

manufacturing capacity in France. 

22 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Antarctica: A Continent for Science 


Until the advent of mass tourism, Antarctica’s tagline was: “A continent for science”. 

23 

Antarctica affects the rest of the world in a variety of 

ways, so “Antarctic Science” should really be “Global 

science that happens in Antarctica”. Although many 

early expeditions were purely geographical in scope, 

there were some important scientific expeditions in the 

late 19 th to early 20 th centuries. In this “Golden Age” of 

exploration, there were many scientific contributions 

from Antarctica which changed our view of the earth’s 

evolution and environment. 

Indeed, three expeditions brought back proof that 

Antarctica once had a warm climate. Scott’s first 

expedition (1901-1904) found coal from 250 million 

years ago in the Transantarctic Mountains; 

Nordenskjӧld’s Swedish Antarctic Expedition found 

warm-water fossils on James Ross Island; and the Scotia 

Expedition under Bruce (1902-1904) dredged 

fossiliferous 500 million-year-old limestone from the 

Weddell Sea. Scott’s second expedition (1910-1913) 

found fossil leaves(Glossopteris) in the Transantarctic 

Mountains. These fossils belong to an extinct order of 

seed ferns from 299-252 million years ago, only found 

in the southern hemisphere continents and India. They 

were used by Wegener in 1924 in his work on 

continental drift to reconstruct the former 

supercontinent of Gondwana. 

In the years after the First World War, the focus 

changed from individual expeditions to national 

pursuits, such as the British Discovery Investigations – 

the first permanent oceanographic body in the world. 

During 33 years (1918–51) of pioneering work, the 

research ships collected an enormous amount of 

oceanographic, biological, and geographical data. 

Among the results of the investigations was the 

discovery of both the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the 

Antarctic Convergence - the natural boundary of 

Antarctica. 

By the end of the Second World War, the move to 

create national organisations was complete, with the 

formation of the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey 

(now British Antarctic Survey), the Australian National 

Research Expeditions) and other civilian operations 

(France, New Zealand, South Africa, etc). 

As a result of these organisations and better logistics, 

the rate of scientific discovery soared, and new polarspecific 

studies proliferated. Some highlights include: 

• 1957-58: The International Geophysical Year (IGY) 

was an 18-month collaboration between 67 

countries. Antarctica was the focus, with 12 nations 

participating. Many new scientific stations were 

created and the IGY was a resounding success as it 

led directly to the Antarctic Treaty 

• 1959-1996: The discovery and delineation of 

subglacial Lake Vostok is a great example of scientific 

cooperation. Lab studies showed that ice under very 

high pressure reverts to water and in 1964, seismic 

soundings from Vostok Station were used to 

measure the thickness of the ice sheet. This 

suggested the existence of a subglacial lake. British 

airborne ice-penetrating radar in the 1970s detected 

unusual radar readings, suggesting a freshwater lake 

below the ice. In 1991, a radar satellite revealed 

that this subglacial water body is one of the world’s 

largest lakes. We now know that there are at least 

140 subglacial lakes in Antarctica. 

• 1980-present: The US-funded collection and curation 

of Antarctic meteorites has recovered about 22,000 

meteorites from Antarctica (about 75% of all known 

meteorites worldwide). There are samples from the 

Moon, Mars, and asteroids. 

• 1985: In hole in the ozone layer over Antarctica was 

discovered from ground-based instruments at Halley 

Bay and Faraday (British Antarctic Survey). 

• 1986: Research at McMurdo Station, the main U.S. 

scientific station in Antarctica, established that 

chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) as the probable cause of 

the Antarctic ozone hole (US NSF). These two bits of 

work lead to signing of the Madrid Protocol on 1987, 

banning CFCs. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Northward Bound 

3 January 2020– Drake Passage 

Written by Martin Shuster 

Jamie warned us yesterday evening that we were going 

to experience a real Drake Passage crossing today, so 

we were quite prepared for the swells that kicked up in 

the early hours of the morning. We had been warned to 

secure our belongings, a mariner’s term for tidying up 

your stateroom. After our 7:45 AM wakeup call we 

were able to get a taste of eating on the high seas while 

attempting to keep our tea from spilling onto our lap’s. 

Most of succeeded, after which we promptly headed 

back to our staterooms. 


24 

Thomas, a former university lecturer in both Hong Kong 

and Australia, presented a brief history of the Antarctic 

treaty. He explained that under the treaty the Antarctic 

continent actually belongs to all of us, and to none of 

us. All signatories have pledged to forego any 

exploitation of mineral resources on the continent and 

also to protect the wildlife and their habitat from 

human impacts. 

After Thomas’ lecture, the seas began to calm a bit. The 

4-meter swells we had been contending with, had 

calmed to a mere 3 meters, with assurances from Jamie 

that the afternoon would bring a `good drake`. 

After lunch we were able to learn more about the 

whales that have accompanied us on much of our 

journey. Amanda introduced us to our familiar 

companions, the humpback whales, as well as to some 

of the less common whales in the Antarctic, including 

minke, fin, and blue whales. Many of us had hoped to 

see Orcas, or Killer Whales, so it was a treat to see them 

with Amanda. 

During sea voyages it is quite common to develop a 

routine; to lose track of time in a foreign place. After 

five days on the Antarctic peninsula we have grown 

accustomed to early wake up calls, bundling ourselves 

up in waterproof expedition gear, and experiencing new 

animals and vistas. Today, we were able to decompress 

a bit, and also learn a bit more about our newfound 

polar environment. 


After making some dumplings in the afternoon, we 

had our final recap in the Viking Theatre, followed by 

yet another scrumptious dinner in the Vinland 

restaurant. An exciting and entertaining quiz night 

also tested our newly gained Antarctic knowledge. 

Later, the gentle rocking of the Ocean Atlantic lulled 

us to sleep on our second night at sea during the 

northbound journey. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

© Renato Granieri Photography 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Fire in the Antarctic 

Gregers Gjersøe, Snowshoe Master & Expedition Guide 

Fire is one of the greatest threats in Antarctica thanks 

to the region’s very dry climate, frequent strong winds, 

and nearly complete lack of liquid freshwater. Due to 

the continent’s isolation with and little possibility of 

rescue for weeks or months, a fire in the Antarctic is a 

potentially very disastrous event. 

Although it is covered in snow and ice, the cold 

temperatures of Antarctica make the White Continent 

very dry. As it is one of the windiest places on Earth, 

there is almost always a strong wind blowing much of 

the time, more than strong enough to fan any flames. 

As the temperatures across the whole continent of 

Antarctica is averaging below freezing, there is unlikely 

to be very much liquid water to fight fires. So, the 

response to fire is usually to make sure everyone is out 

of danger and safe and then stand back and watch it 

burn itself out. 

Bases in Antarctica are often designed to survive fires 

because they are made up of a number of separate 

buildings, each with a significant distance between 

them. Many bases have emergency supplies stored in a 

hut near the base but well away. In these huts, there 

are often enough supplies and ample shelter for the 

base’s crew to be able to survive a fire or emergency 

until help can arrive. 

The Argentine Antarctic base and scientific research 

station, “Brown Station,” is named after Admiral 

William Brown, the father of the Argentine Navy. 

25 

Located on the Sanaviron Peninsula along Paradise 

Harbour’s Danco Coast, from 1951 to 1984 it served as 

a permanent research base, though, since then, it is 

open only during the summer season. 

During its heyday, the station was home to one of the 

most complete biology laboratories on the Antarctic 

Peninsula, featuring a main house, as well as an 

additional building exclusively for scientific research. 

This building was equipped with three labs, a 

photography workshop, an emergency radio station, an 

office and a library. 

Unfortunately, Brown Station’s original facilities were 

burned down by the station’s doctor on 12 April 1984 

after he was ordered to stay on for yet another winter, 

despite the original terms of his contract and his desire 

to see his fiancé once again. As you can imagine, the 

stress of Antarctica’s harsh winter conditions can take 

its toll on residents and explorers of the region, driving 

them to take extreme measures to get back home. 

The doctor simply couldn’t bear to stay on for another 

winter and he couldn’t stand the isolation as the days 

drew darker. His solution? To force an evacuation of 

himself and his colleagues in the only way plausible 

manner: by burning the station down. 

After the fire, the station’s personnel were rescued by 

the USS Hero and taken to United States’ Palmer 

Station. Argentina later rebuilt the base, but it is now 

only occupied during the summer months. The station’s 

doctor was sent to prison for arson and his fiancé 

decided to call off the engagement. 

© Werner Kruse 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

The Beagle Channel 

4 January 2020– Drake Passage 

Written by Amanda Dalsgaard 

26 

On the the final morning our Drake Passage crossing, 

we awoke to misty skies and an abundance of seabirds. 

Although the seas had rocked the Ocean Atlantic 

through the night, the swell wasn’t too harsh and we 

had a relatively pleasant morning on the Southern 

Ocean. 

Thankfully, we had a later start for the day so we had a 

bit of a lie in before a delicious breakfast in the Vinland 

Restaurant as well as a disembarkation briefing in the 

Viking Theatre. Once that was complete, the kayakers 

among us gathered up for a quick debriefing meeting 

and then a short lecture on the history of kayaking from 

our kayak guide, Slava. 

After lunch, we headed back to the Viking Theatre for a 

virtual bridge tour, hosted by expedition guide, Daniel. 

Then, Daniel offered us the chance to tour the bridge 

first hand and see the Ocean Atlantic’s officers hard at 

work. 

By early evening, it was time to gather in the Viking 

Lounge one last time for the end of voyage slideshow 

and charity auction, as well as Captain Nikolay’s 

celebratory cocktail hour. We waved a hearty goodbye 

to the journey of a lifetime, taking a moment to reflect 

on our voyage, thanks to Renato’s immaculately 

composed slideshow of our trip to the White Continent. 

We also had a chance to thank and appreciate the many 

people who made this journey possible, from the 

officers and crew to the Expedition Staff. Finally, it was 

time to head to the Vinland Restaurant for our last 

dinner aboard the Ocean Atlantic, topped off with Chef 

Indra’s spectacular “Death by Chocolate” dessert buffet. 

As we pulled into our berth in Ushuaia, our journey 

drew closer towards its close. However, as we packed 

our bags and prepared to disembark the Ocean Atlantic, 

amid the festivities of the evening, we had the chance to 

appreciate the beauty of the journey of a lifetime and all 

the memories we’ll take with us as we make our way 

home. 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

© Renato Granieri Photography 

Volume 2, Issue 8





27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

King of the Southern Winds 

Sandra Ophorst, Lecturer & Expedition Guide 

The wandering albatross is an impressive bird with the 

world’s largest wingspan of up to 3.5 meters in length 

and a weight of up to 11 kilograms. Unfortunately, the 

number of wandering albatrosses is rapidly declining 

with only 20,100 individuals left as of October 2019 

(Red List, World Conservation Union) 

The wandering albatross is rarely seen on land and 

gathers only to breed, at which time it forms large 

colonies on remote islands, such as South Georgia. The 

female lays a single white egg and both sexes share 

incubation, which lasts about 60 to 80 days. Both sexes 

feed the youngster by regurgitating food, a process 

that can continue for up to nine months. 

The nesting cycle of wandering albatrosses is so long, 

they can’t complete it in one year. So, they nest every 

other year. When young albatrosses become 

independent and leave their nest site, they begin a 

multi-year foray on the open ocean and will not return 

to land until they are old enough to breed. This can 

take up to 10 years of their 50 year average lifespan. 

28 

The wandering albatross is famous for its dynamic 

flight. They turn into the wind to gain height, then glide 

back down to the sea to gain speed. Sometimes they 

glide for hours without rest or even a single flap of 

their wings. Indeed, this principle was used to design 

airplanes, especially gliders that have albatross-like 

wings. 

As a result of these wings, however, an albatross’ 

landing process often looks a bit comical as their 

narrow wings do not allow for a slow approach. So, 

they often land on their feet and then tumble forward 

and slide on their bellies. The biggest threats to the 

wandering albatross are pollution and large-scale 

commercial tuna fisheries. These tuna fishing boats are 

equipped with up to 20,000 fish baited hooks and 

these lines can be up to 100km long. 

Unfortunately, these fishing lines often attract 

albatrosses get caught up on the hooks and drown as 

they are cast out at sea. Organisations such as Hookpod 

are trying to save the albatrosses from the dangers of 

long line fishing vessels by providing fishing boats with 

“hookpods” that cover the barb and point of the hook 

during setting, reducing the likelihood of an albatross 

by-catch. 

© Gaby Pilson 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

Home Again 

5 January 2020- Ushuaia 

Written by Gaby Pilson 

After last night’s end-of-voyage festivities, we awoke 

much too early for our final morning on the Ocean 

Atlantic. Although we wish we could stay, we started 

the process of leaving behind the ship and the people 

we’ve come to know so well over the past week. 

Our bags were packed and stowed in the corridors, 

ready for our early-morning busses and flights back 

home. After nine whole days immersed in the 

landscapes and amongst the wildlife of the Antarctic, 

it was time to return home or to wherever our life’s 

journeys bring us. 

And so – farewell, adieu, and goodbye. Together we 

have visited and incredible and vast wilderness. We 

have experienced magnificent mountain vistas, seen 

icebergs roll and crack, felt the power of the elements 

and seen how quickly they can change. We enjoyed 

wonderful food and comfortable surroundings aboard 

the Ocean Atlantic. 

29 

We boarded zodiacs and cruised through icy bays at 

the end of the Earth. We shared unique moments, 

held engaging conversations, and laughed together 

over beers and coffees. We’ve made new friends and 

experienced the power of expeditionary travel. 

We hope the expedition team has helped make this 

the trip of a lifetime - one that will persist in your 

memories for weeks, months, and years, to come. 

Although we must say good-bye to these places we 

have come to know and love, it is a fond farewell as 

we are all true ambassadors for the Antarctic and all 

the beauty it holds. 

On behalf of Albatros Expeditions, our captain and 

crew, the expedition team, and everyone else who 

helped make this journey a resounding success, it has 

been a pleasure travelling with you. We hope that you 

will come back and experience these wonderful places 

with us once again! 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

By the Numbers… 

30 

Voyage Statistics: 

Southernmost Point: 

Total Distance Travelled: 

64 o 53.333’ S, 62 o 51.559’W 

1579 nautical miles 

Excursion Locations: 

Portal Point: 64 o 29’23S 61 47 57 W 

Cuverville Island: 64 o 41’00’S 62 o 38’00’W 

Port Lockroy: 64 o 49’00’S 63 o 29’00’W 

Damoy Point: 64 o 49’00’S 63 o 29’00’W 

Deception Island: 62 o 59’ S 60 o 29’ W 

Ushuaia: 54 o 45’ S 68 o 23’ W 

Great Wall Station: 62 o 13’ S 58 o 55’ W 

Portal Point: 64 o 30’ S 61 o 46’ W 

Orne Harbour: 64 o 38’S 62 o 33’ W 

Brown Station: 64 o 50’ S 62 o 57’ W 

During our time on the M/V Ocean Atlantic, we consumed: 

Beef 

Lamb 

Pork 

Poultry 

Cold Cuts 

Fish & Seafood 

Eggs 

Milk 

Cheese 

Ice Cream 

Vegetables 

Fruit 

Wine 

Beer 

Toilet Paper 

580kg 

190kg 

750kg 

870kg 

200kg 

450kg 

7560 pieces 

720L 

100kg 

200L 

3200kg 

3600kg 

80 bottles 

432 cans 

960 rolls 

27 DEC 2019 – 5 JAN 2020 

Volume 2, Issue 8

A Final Note… 

31 

As any good expedition comes to a close, many of us experience the 

effervescent excitement that comes when we immerse ourselves 

completely in an adventure. Although we all came into this voyage with 

our own expectations and personal motivations, on the ship, we quickly 

learned that the best plan is the one that we end up doing. 

While weather and the landscape 

can conspire against us in the 

southern latitudes, the right mindset 

can make all of the difference. 

Wind, rain, sleet, and snow make no 

difference when we come prepared 

for an adventure and all the 

excitement it holds. Whether you 

saw what you came for or you 

experienced something else 

entirely, when you set out on an 

expedition, you come for the 

mountains and the wildlife, but stay 

for people and places you meet 

along the way. 

Although we all eventually have to 

leave behind our beloved Ocean 

Atlantic, there are always a few 

things we can take home from an 

expedition: 

• An acceptance and embracement 

of adversity and uncertainty 

when the natural world alters 

our plans. 

• A fondness for the wild and a 

strong desire to keep remote 

natural locations as beautiful and 

free as they can be. 

• An insatiable interest in learning 

more about the people, places, 

and cultures in some of the most 

remote parts of the world. 

As you unpack you bags, you may 

find souvenirs and keepsakes from 

your journey. Your camera may be 

filled with countless photos, 

however blurry, of the many 

animals and mountains that have 

crossed our paths. At the end of the 

day, however, what matters most is 

the experience of, the journey to, 

and the memories of these wild and 

wonderful places. 

Best wishes from all of us on the 

expedition team as you continue on 

with your adventures! 

Jamie Watts 

Expedition Leader 

Marieke Egan 

Assistant Expedition Leader 

Thank you for experiencing the Antarctic with us at Albatros 

Expeditions. We hope to see you aboard the Ocean Atlantic 

again in the future! 

Phil Hunter 

Assistant Expedition Leader 

18 Dec – 27 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 7

Voyage 8 - Antarctic Peninsula

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?