South Shetlands & Antarctic Peninsula V5

30 NOV – 9 DEC 2019 Volume 2, Issue 5 

Albatros Magazine 

A Visual Journey 

South Shetlands & 

Antarctic Peninsula: The 

Journey of a Lifetime 

THE OFFICIAL VOYAGE LOG OF

Albatros Magazine: A Visual Journey 

Editor-in-Chief: 

Layout & Design: 

Gaby Pilson 

Gaby Pilson 

Front Cover Image: 

Back Cover Image: 

Photography Contributors: 

Chinstrap Penguin © Yuri Choufour 

Chinstrap Penguin © Renato Granieri 

Yuri Choufour 

Werner Kruse 

Renato Granieri 

Gaby Pilson 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 Volume 2, Issue 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS 

The Voyage 

Meet the Team 

Day 1: Southward Bound 

The Seven Sisters of Szczecin 

An Unlikely Antarctic Explorer 

Day 2: Rolling Our Way South 

Penguins! Fun Facts for the Antarctic 

Adventurer 

Day 3: At Sea in the Southern Ocean 

Ice is Nice – Glacier Fun Facts 

Whales: Friendly Giants of the Sea 

Day 4: The White Continent 

The Geological Structure of the Antarctic 

Peninsula 

Day 5: Travelling Through History 

When and How the Earth Got Cold 

Day 6: True Antarctic Conditions 

Day 7: The Final Day 

A Brief History of the Zodiac 

Antarctica: A Continent for Science 

Day 8: Northward Bound 

Fire in the Antarctic 

Day 9: The Beagle Channel 

King of the Southern Winds 

Day 10: Home Again 

By the Numbers 

A Final Note 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

19 

20 

21 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

29 

30 

31

The Voyage 

3 

The following map traces the approximate route that the M/V Ocean Atlantic took during our 

voyage to Antarctica. You can find more information about our day to day activities, landings, and 

excursions on the following pages. We hope that this magazine serves as a reminder of all of the 

wonderful memories you made while experiencing the Antarctic with us at Albatros Expeditions. 

© Renato Granieri 

© Yuri Choufour 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Meet the Team 

4 

Jamie Watts 

Assistant Expedition 

Leader 

Shelli Ogilvy 

Expedition Leader 

Christophe Gouraud 

Assistant Expedition 

Leader 

Chris Guzzo 

Zodiac Master 

Gaby Pilson 

Snowshoe Master 

Slava Nikitin 

Kayak Master 

Amanda Dalsgaard 

Equipment Master 

Nadine Smith 

Shop Manager 

Rose Li 

Translator & Guide 

Guillaume de Remacle 

Lecturer & Guide 

Yuri Choufour 

Photographer 

Sarah Bouckoms 

First Aid Responder 

Federico Campanelli 

Snowshoe Guide 

Mariam Pousa 


Phil Hunter 

Kayak Guide 

Daniel Wu 

Translator & Guide 

Thomas Bauer 


Ye Li 

Shop Assistant 

Aaron Strahlke 


Kristoffer Ronning 


Rashidah Lim 

Expedition Guide 

Marc Jansen 

Guest Services 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

5 

Southward Bound 

30 November 2019 - Embarkation Day 

As our flights touched down on the runway in 

Ushuaia, we were treated to delightful views of 

Tierra del Fuego and the city that marks the start of 

our Antarctic adventure. Weary from our recent 

flights, yet excited for the adventure to come, we 

made our way to the port of Ushuaia. 

Walking down the long commercial pier in Ushuaia, 

we got our first sighting of the ship that would 

become our home for the next ten days – the M/V 

Ocean Atlantic. After snapping some photos of our 

trusty chariot, we embarked the Ocean Atlantic, 

receiving a warm welcome from the ship’s hotel 

department and our Expedition Team. 

Upon arriving in the lobby of the Ocean Atlantic, we 

were accompanied up to Viking Lounge where we 

checked in to the hotel and shown to our cabins. 

Soon enough, we head back up to the Nordic Coffee 

Bar for a scrumptious afternoon tea before the 

evening’s festivities. Not long after we had our last 

cup of tea and, perhaps, one scone too many, it was 

time for our mandatory safety drill in the late 

afternoon. 

After our safety drill, we had an opportunity to wander 

around the ship and acquaint ourselves with our new 

home. Before long, however, we gathered up in the 

Viking Lounge yet again for an introductory briefing 

with Expedition Leader Shelli Ogilvy and her 21 

expedition team staff members before heading to the 

first of many fantastic dinners in the Vinland 

Restaurant. 

Soon enough, we were casting away the bowlines, 

heading away from our safe harbour, and journeying 

out to sea, in true expedition style. As we’re on an 

expedition, we know full well that there are no 

guarantees. We are at the mercy of the weather, the 

wildlife, and the landscape of this cold and often 

inhospitable place. 

But, as explorers know all too well, we can only ever 

experience true beauty in nature when we are brave 

enough to seek it out amongst the mountains and the 

seas in the world’s most remote places. It is with that 

sentiment in mind that we venture away from Ushuaia 

and south, to the future and all the wonders it holds. 

“ 

We can only ever experience true 

beauty in nature when we are 

brave enough to seek it out… 

” 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 Volume 2, Issue 5

The Seven Sisters of Szczecin 

David MacDonald, Lecturer (Geology) & Expedition Guide 

M/V Ocean Atlantic was launched in 1986 as the last-built of the ‘Shoshtakovich’ class of ice-strengthened 

passenger vessels, alongside six sister ships, together known as the “Seven Sisters of Szczecin. 

6 

Her original name was Konstantin Chernenko 

(Константин Черненко), after the President of the 

USSR (1984-1985). She was renamed Russ (Русс) in 

1989, and spent much of her life working in the Russian 

Far East. 

She was purchased by Albatros Expeditions and 

completely refitted in 2017. She is now a 200- 

passenger expedition vessel and is one of the strongest 

polar cruise ships afloat. Here are some fun facts about 

the “Seven Sisters”: 

• All seven ships were built by Stocnia Szczecinska 

shipyard in Szczecin, Poland between 1979-1986 

• Main engines: 4 x Skoda Sulzer 6LZ40 total power 

12800 kW, giving a maximum speed of 18 knots 

• Most of the class have one bow thruster (736 kW) 

and one stern thruster (426 kW); however, two 

ships, including ours, built in 1986, have two stern 

thrusters, each of 426 kW 

• Feature Siemens stabilisers for seaworthiness 

• Although built as ferries, they have a strengthened 

car deck for transport of tanks 

• Two of them had diving chambers 

• MV Mikhail Sholokov had hull demagnetising 

equipment so it could operate in minefields 

• All of these ships have been scrapped except ours 

and Konstantin Simonov – now Ocean Endeavour 

Our ship has had a complex history: 

1986-1987 In Baltic traffic, then Vladivostok to 

Japan & S Korea 

1989 renamed to Russ 

1997-1999 In traffic Stockholm-Riga; 2000 

Odessa-Haifa; 2002 back to 

Vladivostok transporting cars from 

Japan 

2007 Sold to Sea Ferry Shipping in Majuro 

and renamed 2010 to Atlantic; 

renovations in Italy and in traffic 

Stockholm-Helsinki-St. Petersburg 

during summer and laid up (October 

2010) in St Petersburg 

2012 Sold to ISP in Miami and renamed to 

Ocean Atlantic under Marshall 

Islands flag 

2013 Used as a hotel ship in the German 

bight wind farm project 

2015-2017 Laid up in Helsingborg and taken to 

Gdansk in Poland, where totally 

refitted 

2017 Chartered to Quark Expeditions 

2017-present Chartered to Albatros Expeditions. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

An Unlikely Antarctic Explorer 

Gregers Gjersøe – Snowshoe Master & Expedition Guide 

In a suburb of Wellington, New Zealand, the local 

cemetery is home to a rather unassuming grave. 

The final resting place of Henry “Chippy” McNish, 

one of the survivors of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s 

1914 Endurance Expedition, the grave is also a 

memorial to one of the most improbable of 

Antarctic explorers. 

In January of 1915, the Endurance got trapped in 

the Antarctic pack ice. McNish's work prevented 

the ship from flooding, but he couldn’t do 

anything to stop it from being crushed. The ship 

was abandoned and, much to McNish’s despair, 

Shackleton ordered Mrs. Chippy to be shot, as 

they couldn’t take her on their survival journey. 

7 

McNish himself was a carpenter onboard the 

Endurance, though he didn’t travel alone. During 

the expedition, McNish brought along a cat that 

followed him around like an overpossessive 

wife. Soon enough, the 

crew named the cat Mrs. Chippy, 

although the expedition quickly 

realised that Mrs. Chippy was a 

gentleman, not a lady. 

Mrs. Chippy was an unusual cat, 

though an avid adventurer, 

having climbed the Endurance’s 

rigging lines on several 

occasions. Mrs. Chippy also did 

some very provocative strolls 

across the roofs of the dogs’ kennels 

and even once fell into the frigid water 

below. Thankfully, the crew heard her cries and 

quickly turned the ship around so they could 

pluck her up from the icy cold waters and get her 

to safety. 

Also onboard the Endurance was a young man - 

Perce Blackborow. Perce had travelled to Buenos 

Aires looking for new employment, but wasn’t 

hired; at 18, his youth and inexperience counted 

against him. Somehow, he managed to sneak 

aboard the ship, and he hid in a clothing locker 

for three days. Eventually, he was discovered, 

and Shackleton was furious with him, but was 

sent to work in the galley where he became great 

friends with Mrs. Chippy. 

Now, the group had to make it back to safety. For 

months, the expedition drifted through icy 

waters until they made it to Elephant Island. 

Once at Elephant Island, Shackleton set out 

in a 22-foot-long open boat and made 

an 800-mile crossing through the 

rough waters of the South Atlantic 

to South Georgia. McNish was 

one of the five men who 

accompanied Shackleton, 

making improvements to the 

boat to make the voyage 

possible. 

For the next fifteen years, McNish 

lived a difficult life in Wellington 

before passing away in 1930. He never 

forgave Shackleton for shooting Mrs. 

Chippy. 

Nearly 30 years later, in 1959, the New Zealand 

Antarctic Society realised that McNish had been 

given a very poor burial in an unmarked grave. 

The Society raised funds for a headstone and 

even reunited McNish and Mrs. Chippy by adding 

a life-sized bronze statue of Mrs. Chippy to the 

grave. 

Now Karori Cemetery near Wellington is a 

pilgrimage site for Antarctic history buffs, who 

visit McNish’s grave and see Mrs. Chippy 

watching over him once again. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Rolling Our Way South 

1 December 2019 – Drake Passage 

The Ocean Atlantic cleared the Beagle Channel and left 

the shelter of the islands of Cape Horn overnight, 

beginning our passage across the open ocean. The 

Drake Passage was rough off the bat and the westward 

swell had us rocking through the small hours. Some 

found this comforting; others considered strapping 

themselves to their bunks. The day began officially at 

07:15 with Shelli’s melodious double good morning 

wake up call. 

This was followed by breakfast and a wonderful 

lecture by our ornithologist onboard, Guillaume, 

discussing the numerous different adaptations of the 

seabirds of the Southern Ocean. After this lecture, we 

headed down to the mudroom to receive our beautiful 

blue parkas, which will keep us toasty warm during our 

time in Antarctica. 

As the morning rolled on, we took the time to rest and 

relax, especially if the rough seas had us feeling 

unwell. Others spent lots of time on deck or on the 

bridge, enjoying the spectacular array of seabirds 

flying through the turbulent air of the Southern Ocean. 

Meanwhile, our resident photographer and expedition 

guide, Yuri, gave us some of his top tips for getting that 

perfect shot in his introductory photography lecture. 

8 

After plenty of bird and photography talk, we 

reconvened in the Vinland Restaurant to enjoy a 

beautifully prepared lunch. Once lunch was done and 

dusted, we had our first mandatory briefing of the 

voyage: the IAATO briefing. Designed to help us be 

good tourists to Antarctica, the IAATO briefing outlined 

all of the dos and don’ts of enjoying the White 

Continent. 

The IAATO briefing was followed by a mandatory 

biosecurity event, where we cleaned and prepared all 

of our jackets and bags in preparation for our upcoming 

Antarctic excursions. Afternoon tea, and perhaps an 

afternoon nap, took up most of the pre-dinner hours, 

though recap and the next day’s briefing brought 

everyone back to the Viking lounge before we all 

departed to the restaurant for another delicious meal 

together. 

With the anticipation high for the coming day’s 

activities, we capped things off with a relaxed evening 

in the Viking Lounge. The expedition team hosted a 

Hollywood-style movie night complete with popcorn. 

The heroes of the silver screen along with the Drake’s 

steady roll lulled us into a comfortable night’s sleep 

before another day on the Drake Passage. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Penguins! Fun Facts for the Antarctic Adventurer 

Gaby Pilson, Hiking Master & Expedition Guide 

For many of us, the chance to see penguins waddling around in the snowy vastness of Antarctica is the reason 

that we came to the White Continent. These charismatic sea birds are a fan-favourite for visitors to Antarctica, 

but even cuddly-looking penguins are incredibly well adapted to one of the harshest environments on Earth. 

1 

2 

Depending on what book you read, there are 19 

species of penguins. If you count all of the 

subspecies, there are 25 total varieties of 

penguins in the world, however, there are only 

four truly Antarctic species of penguins: the 

Adélie, Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Emperor. All of 

the other penguins in the world live south of the 

equator yet north of Antarctica, with the 

exception of one species in the Galapagos whose 

range barely crosses into the northern 

hemisphere. 

The largest penguin to have ever lived was the 

now-extinct mega penguin, which weighed some 

115 kg. These days, the largest penguin is the 

Emperor Penguin, which tips the scales at 23 kg. 

Alternatively, the smaller gentoo penguin weighs 

just 15 kg. 

9 

3 

4 

5 

Although they nest, breed, and socialize on land, 

penguins rely on the sea for survival. As 

swimming and diving birds, penguins are adept 

at fishing and must head to the ocean for their 

sustenance. Indeed, the deepest diving bird in 

the world is the Emperor Penguin, with a 

record-breaking dive of 535 meters! 

Penguins are amazing swimmers. They spend 

much of their day searching for food in the 

ocean, particularly for their favourite meal of 

krill, squid, and small fish. The fastest swimming 

penguin is the Gentoo, which is known to reach 

speeds of upwards of 50 kilometres and hour 

while zooming through the water. 

Penguins are highly social birds, choosing to 

nest in large colonies, where they will also raise 

their young. Many penguin chicks, after 

hatching stay with their parents for a few weeks 

to a few months before forming large “crechés,” 

many hundreds of individual teenage penguins 

in size. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

At Sea in the Southern Ocean 


10 

We awoke to a gentler rocking lullaby of the waves and 

Shelli’s “welcome to the day” after our first official 

night at sea. After breakfast, we had a lecture on 

penguins, where we learned all about the cute, cuddly 

seabirds we hoped to encounter on the White 

Continent. 

Once we wrapped up the lecture, we had a mandatory 

Zodiac briefing in the Viking Theatre, which was 

designed to acquaint us with the trusty boats that we 

planned to use to make landings and Zodiac cruises in 

Antarctica. Although the morning was already actionpacked, 

before lunch, we even managed to sneak in a 

quick kayaking briefing for all of us interested in 

paddling in Antarctica’s icy waters. 

These lectures and meetings left us in high anticipation 

of the end of our two-day voyage across the Drake 

Passage, though we still had much to do before we 

were ready to step foot on the White Continent. 

Lunch came and went, as it does on sea days, and, 

after which, we had a boot-fitting party where we got 

outfitted with our trusty rubber boots, which would 

later prove critical for keeping our feet dry during 

landings. After we got our boots, many of us gathered 

back up in the Viking Theatre for some educational 

CME presentations while others headed up to the 

Bistro for a stretching class with Rashida to limber up 

our sea legs for the coming days’ excursions. 

Soon enough, however, it was time to assemble in the 

Viking Theatre once again for our first “recap” and 

briefing, where Expedition Leader Shelli introduced the 

plans for the following day. 

A scrumptious dinner in the Vinland Restaurant, as well 

as a bar talk event rounded out the evening and the 

day’s activities, leaving us tired and excited for the next 

day’s busy schedule of landings and zodiac cruises on 

the White Continent! 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Ice is Nice – Glacier Fun Facts 

Gaby Pilson, Hiking Master & Expedition Guide 

Glaciers have, quite literally, shaped our world. Without glaciers, the rolling hills and wide valleys we know 

today would look very different, but it turns out that these icy giants have a much longer and more storied 

history than many of us would initially suspect. Here are some of the best fun facts about glaciers: 

11 

1 

Not just anything can be a glacier. In fact, there’s 

a size requirement that a piece of ice has to 

meet to become a glacier. Anything considered a 

glacier must be at least 0.1 km 2 (nearly 25 acres) 

in area to be worthy of the name. Although 

there’s a minimum size requirement to be 

considered a glacier, there’s no upper limit to 

glacierhood. The longest glacier on earth is the 

Lambert Glacier of Antarctica, which measures 

out to some 434 km (270 mi) long. The world’s 

largest non-polar glacier is the Fedchenko 

Glacier of Tajikistan, which measures a 

respectable 77km (48mi) long. 



2 

Glaciers are formed by snowflakes. Although it’s 

crazy to think that a tiny snowflake can create 

something as large as a glacier, without snow, 

glaciers would never exist in the first place. To 

form a glacier, massive amounts of snow must 

accumulate and persist in a single location all 

year long for hundreds, if not thousands of 

years. During this time, the individual snowflakes 

found in the snowpack change in a process 

known as snowflake metamorphosis, where 

individual ice grains fuse together and get bigger 

and air bubbles get smaller. Once the icepack 

builds up enough mass to start flowing downhill, 

then, voila! We have a glacier. 

3 

Glaciers are found all over the world, not just in 

the polar regions. While the majority of glaciers 

and glacial ice is concentrated in high northern 

and southern latitudes, glaciers are found even 

near the equator, such as on Mount Kilimanjaro 

in Tanzania and in the mountains of Ecuador. 

That being said, about half of the world’s 

200,000 glaciers are found in one place: Alaska. 

There, glaciers cover a whopping 72,500 km 2 

(28,000 mi 2 ) of the US state’s total area. That’s a 

lot of ice. 

© Werner Kruse 

4 

Glaciers are basically really, really, really slow-moving rivers. To be considered a glacier, a large mass of ice 

must be physically moving downhill. This movement downhill is driven by gravity and is the main reason 

why glaciers also act as major agents of erosion. Since glaciers move downhill, they often remove and 

transport large boulders and chunks of rock, depositing them much further downhill then where they 

started. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Drake Passage 


Drake Passage 

© Yuri Choufour © Yuri Choufour 

Half Moon Island 



30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Whales: Friendly Giants of the Sea 

Amanda Dalsgaard – Lecturer (Marine Biology) and Expedition Guide 

13 

When one talks about whales, we must acknowledge 

the vast diversity of whales on earth and the 

uniqueness of each species. All whales fall into an 

order of marine mammals known as Cetaceans. The 

scientists who first discovered and named this order of 

marine mammals, used the word cetacean or 

‘ceatacea’ from the Greek ‘ketos,’ meaning monster. 

Long ago, when whales were first scientifically 

observed and recorded, people believed they were 

monsters, due to their size. Today, we know much 

more about the gentle giants that roam our planet’s 

seas, thanks to a number scientific and technological 

advances, our knowledge of these creatures will only 

continue to grow. 

The order Cetacea is divided into two sub-orders, 

Odontocete and Mysticeti. Odontocete, meaning 

‘toothed-whale’, includes all of the whales and 

dolphins with teeth. Mysticeti comes from the Latin 

root meaning “mustache”, and includes all of the 

whales that have baleen plates instead of teeth. It’s 

important to keep these differences in mind when 

trying to observe whales from a ship as this 

information can help identify cetaceans from far away. 

Since whales are marine mammals, they must breath 

air to survive. They do so by breathing at the water’s 

surface through their blow holes. 

Interestingly enough, however, toothed whales have 

only one blow hole or spout, while baleen whales have 

two. Plus, many whales can be identified from afar 

using the size and shape of their spout blow as well. 

For example, grey whales tend to have spouts shaped 

like hearts, while orcas have low bushy spouts. 

Another distinguishing characteristic that sets these 

two sub-orders apart is the way that they 

communicate. Odontocetes use a method of 

communication called echolocation. This is best 

described as a series or clicks and precise sounds that 

are then reflected back to the animal and allows the 

whale to ‘see’ their environment through noise. It is 

the same communication style used by bats in 

terrestrial ecosystems. Mysticetes on the other hand, 

communicate through a variety of low-frequency 

songs. These songs have been described by scientists 

as being beautiful, mysterious and sometimes gloomy, 

with the males being the most active singers of the 

Mysticeti clan. 

Regardless of the kind of whale you see however, any 

encounter with one of these graceful marine giants, 

however brief, is sure to be a memorable experience 

for years to come. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

The White Continent 

3 December 2019 – Danco Island and Paradise Harbour 

14 

By the early morning, the rocking and rolling of the 

ship had all but abated as we pulled into our 

anchorage in near Danco Island in the scenic Errera 

Channel. Danco itself is home to a sizeable population 

of gentoo penguins who nest on the island’s steep, 

rocky slopes. For us, the penguins and scenic backdrop 

of the Errera Channel make Danco the ideal place for 

our first Antarctic landing, which is precisely what we 

set out to do on our first morning on the White 

Continent. 

As soon as our expedition team scouted out the 

conditions onshore, we made our way toward Danco in 

our trusty Zodiacs. After a short ride to the beach, we 

disembarked our boats and started a nice walk up to 

one of the upper colony to stretch our legs and take in 

some of the views. Others in our group headed out on 

a nice Zodiac cruise, where they were treated to good 

sightings of penguins porpoising out of the water and 

even a Weddell seal napping on the snow near our 

landing site. 

Once in Paradise Harbour, the Ocean Atlantic dropped 

its anchor near Base Brown, a summertime-only 

Argentine station on a rocky point. Here, we found 

some of our familiar gentoo penguins, but, perhaps 

more importantly, we were able to make our first true 

landing on the Antarctic Continent itself! 

When we weren’t making our continental landing, we 

had a chance to enjoy a nice Zodiac cruise, which 

featured plentiful nesting Antarctic Cormorants as well 

as a curious molting juvenile elephant seal – the perfect 

end to our first day of excursions! 

Soon enough, we were back onboard the Ocean 

Atlantic in time for recap and then yet another 

delicious dinner, courtesy of Chef Indra and his team. 

After dinner, some of us enjoyed the variety 

programme in the Viking Theatre while others went out 

on deck to experience their first Antarctic sunset 

before heading to bed for some rest before the coming 

day’s adventures. 

After everyone got their time ashore, we headed back 

to the Ocean Atlantic for a scrumptious lunch, tea, and 

perhaps a nap during our quick transit out of the Errera 

and to the site of our afternoon excursion: Paradise 

Harbour. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

The Geological Structure of the Antarctic Peninsula 

David Macdonald, Lecturer (Geology) & Expedition Guide 

This cartoon shows what the Antarctic Peninsula looked like 100 million years ago (mya). The main points to 

note are: 

• The peninsula was a continuation of the Andes. They were connected until 35 mya 

• The peninsula was a volcanic arc from about 200 mya3 until about 25 mya 

• Volcanism ended 50 mya in the south and 20 mya off Brabant Island 

• Only the South Shetlands Islands have any volcanic activity now 

15 

There are three main geological domains, each formed of multiple rock units: 

1. The basement domain (grey and brown colours) contains sediments scraped off the ocean floor which were 

changed by heat and pressure (metamorphosed) in the subduction zone and during folding and 

deformation. These metamorphic rocks span a wide range of ages from 299-65 mya. They tend to be older 

on the east coast of the peninsula. These rocks are best seen in Paradise Harbour, at the shag colony near 

Brown Station. 

2. The igneous domain contains rocks crystallised from magma. This includes both plutonic rocks (where the 

magma crystallised slowly within the earth’s crust) and volcanic rocks (where the magma was erupted as 

lava and ash). Again, the rocks span a wide range of ages from about 210-25 mya, and the younger rocks 

tend to be in the west. These are the commonest rocks seen in the Peninsula and are well displayed in the 

South Shetland Islands (e.g. Half Moon Island, or Yankee Harbour) or on the peninsula (e.g. Cuverville 

Island). Plutonic rocks form Goudier Island at Port Lockroy. 

3. The sedimentary domain contains rocks eroded from the volcanic arc and deposited in sedimentary basins, 

either on the eastern, Weddell Sea side (in a very large structure called the Larsen Basin), or in smaller 

basins to the west (the largest of which is the Fossil Bluff Basin on Alexander Island). Sedimentary rocks are 

not seen on most peninsula cruises (unless they visit the area of James Ross Island), although there are 

sedimentary rocks with abundant fossils interbedded with volcanic rocks west of Hannah Point, in Walker 

Bay. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Travelling Through History 

4 December 2019 – Port Lockroy & Lemaire Channel 

Through the night and the early morning hours, we 

sailed down the famously beautiful Neumayer 

Channel, before arriving at our morning’s excursion 

site: the famous penguin post office at Port Lockroy. 

Before we could head out to land, however, we were 

treated to an informational lecture by Guillaume, one 

of our expedition guides who had spent the last 

Antarctic summer working at the station and had 

plenty of wisdom and advice to share for our visit. 

Soon enough, it was time for us to make our own 

landings at Port Lockory and, upon arrival, we could 

see why the charming and tiny island had a fabulous 

museum and gift shop – previously known as British 

Base ‘A’ during the Second World War. The base’s gift 

shop and resident penguin inhabitants were full of 

activity as we purchased souvenirs while the penguins 

incubated their eggs and stole each other’s stones. 

Once we had our fill of the landing site, we headed out 

on a short Zodiac cruise around Jougla Point and 

Goudier Island, where we even saw some crabeater 

and Weddell Seals resting on some sea ice. With our 

packs weighted down under the mass of our souvenirs, 

we headed back to the Ocean Atlantic for lunch and 

some relaxation before our afternoon activities. 

16 

As soon as the Ocean Atlantic raised its anchor and set 

sail once again through the Neumayer Channel, we 

began our southbound voyage toward Port Charcot and 

the Lemaire Channel. After a few hours of sailing, we 

finally made it to the mouth of the scenic Lemaire 

Channel, whose 7km long and less than 1km wide 

passage makes for a stunning southbound transit 

through Antarctica’s icy waters. 

The White Continent lived up to its name, however, as 

we entered the Lemaire and were greeted by a large 

flow of drift ice blocking the channel’s northern access 

and a sizeable iceberg blocking the Lemaire’s southern 

exit. Under the skilled watch of our Captain, however, 

the Ocean Atlantic made her way through these 

difficult waters – much to the delight of all on deck – 

and to Port Charcot. 

Due to time of day, we decided against an evening 

landing, however, and, instead, made time for a quick 

polar plunge. Some 36 of our number jumped into 

slightly above-freezing water at Port Charcot while 

others watched from the safety of Deck 7, marking the 

end of yet another great day in Antarctica! 

© Gaby Pilson 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

When and How the Earth Got Cold 


The Earth’s climate has two end-member states: 

greenhouse and icehouse. In a greenhouse climate, 

there are no polar icecaps (although there may be 

valley glaciers in high mountain areas) – the climate of 

the Cretaceous Period (144-65 million years ago) is a 

typical greenhouse. We are currently in an icehouse 

climate, since there are icecaps at or near both poles. 

Although life on Earth goes back 3.5 billion years, the 

main expansion in numbers of species and hence of 

easily found fossils occurred 540 million years ago. 

During the time from then until now, greenhouse 

climates have dominated, with three periods of 

icehouse climate, lasting a total of about 100 million 

years. Our current icehouse period began abruptly 35 

million years ago, with formation of an icecap in 

Antarctica. Why did it happen then, and why did it have 

such an abrupt beginning? 

Water temperature (°C) 

Antarctic convergence 

October 2019 

8 

6 

4 

2 

0 

54 56 58 60 62 64 

Latitude (°S) 

17 

Figure 2: Temperatures in the Drake Passage from Friday 25 

October to Sunday 27 October 2019 as Ocean Atlantic sailed south 

across the Antarctic Convergence, where the sea temperature falls 

below 4°C. 

It was the severing of the link between the Antarctic 

Peninsula and Tierra del Fuego that allowed deep cold 

water to circulate around the planet at 50-60°S and 

thermally isolate Antarctica from the rest of the world. 

This situation continues today (Figure 1) 

The key area for this was the Drake Passage, which is 

the western end of the Scotia Sea (Figure 3). Geological 

and geophysical studies of the sea floor show that the 

Antarctica-South America link was severed by the 

growth of ocean crust, beginning 35 million years ago. 

Opening of this deep-water gateway cooled the planet 

and turned Antarctica into the white continent. 

Figure 1: Thermal structure of the Southern Ocean showing the 

position of the Antarctic Convergence (Polar Front) at the junction 

of the dark blue and mid blue shading. This is the line of the 4°C 

isotherm, where Antarctic surface water plunges below cold 

temperate water. 

The first, and most important factor was that we had a 

polar continent. Antarctica was in roughly its present 

position over the South Pole, so would have had 

strongly differentiated winters and summers. However, 

although the former supercontinent of Gondwana had 

largely broken up by then, there was still a land bridge 

to South America and Antarctica was still forested, 

probably with a migratory fauna. Warm currents bathed 

Antarctica’s shores and, 35 million years ago, the 

temperature of the Southern Ocean was a relatively 

mild 6°C. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Figure 3: The Drake Passage and the Scotia Sea formed from 50 

million years ago, when there was slow extension between South 

America and the Antarctic Peninsula which stretched the crust and 

allowed surface waters to circulate through this former land 

bridge. The temperature of the southern Ocean fell from 12°C to 

6°C between 50-35 million years ago, then abruptly fell to 0°C 

when the deep water gateway of the scotia Sea opened, sundering 

the link between Antarctica and South America and allowing 

continuous circulation of deep water, thermally isolating 

Antarctica. 

Volume 2, Issue 5



Deception Island 






30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

True Antarctic Conditions 

5 December 2019 – Damoy Point & Melchoir Islands 

On our third day of excursions, we were starting to get 

used to our routine: an early morning wake up, zodiac 

embarkation, landings, and recap, but all of that 

couldn’t prepare us for the excitement of the day 

ahead. Although our original plan had us landing at the 

beach of Damoy Point in Dorian Bay, the morning’s 

true Antarctic conditions meant that a large flow of 

drift ice was blocking the entrance to the bay, forcing 

us to look for an alternative. 

Luckily, our skillful and knowledgeable expedition 

team knew of an alternative landing site at Damoy, 

where we could land right at the base of one of the 

island’s larger gentoo colonies without having to 

navigate through difficult and icy conditions. When we 

weren’t on land, we enjoyed a short Zodiac cruise 

through some scenic icebergs while also getting a 

chance to observe our friendly gentoos jumping in and 

out of the water. 

Once back on the Ocean Atlantic, we started our long, 

five-hour transit north, away from the Peninsula and 

toward the Melchoir Islands. This small collection of 

rocky outcrops nestled between Anvers and Brabant 

Islands would be the site of our afternoon’s Zodiac 

cruise, but, first, we had to cross quite a distance to 

get to that point. 

19 

Meanwhile, back on the ship, many of us enjoyed a 

relaxed lunch, as well as a lecture from our on-board 

marine biologist, Amanda, about the seals of the 

Antarctic. After the lecture, many of us headed out on 

deck for some bird and whale watching while others 

found that the rolling and rocking of the ship in the swell 

of the Gerlache Strait kept us in our cabins until we 

reached our anchorage at the Melchior Islands. 

Upon arrival, the initial wind and the swell in the waters 

of the Melchoirs caused some concern, but our 

experienced Zodiac drivers felt confident in their ability 

to handle the conditions. Luckily enough for us, however, 

the wind and the swell more or less abated, and we 

enjoyed a stunning cruise in the bright sunshine and 

even spotted a handful of Weddell Seals before heading 

back to the ship. 

While we weren’t cruising, our expedition guide and 

resident glaciologist, Gaby, gave an informative lecture 

on the icy wonders of the White Continent to help us 

better understand the landscapes around us. Once back 

on the ship, we enjoyed a quick recap and briefing about 

our final day in Antarctica, before heading off to dinner 

in the Vinland Restaurant. What a day! 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

The Final Day 

6 December 2019 – Half Moon Island and Deception Island 

Today’s adventures began at a scenic little volcanic 

cove known to Antarctic expeditioners as Half Moon 

Island. The weather was in our favor and we were able 

to proceed with the daily plan of a morning landing 

and a zodiac cruise. The landing site was filled with an 

abundance of nesting sea birds and chinstrap 

penguins, alike, with a few gentoo penguins spread 

amongst the colonies. 

While half the group was exploring on land, the other 

half embarked upon a zodiac cruise to experience the 

rugged shoreline of Half Moon Island that is not 

accessible by foot. We also cruised by the uninhabited 

Argentine Camara research station, where a resting 

elephant seal was spotted on the beach to greet our 

boats! 

After a beautiful morning at Half Moon island, we 

reconvened onboard the Ocean Atlantic and joined 

together for lunch inside the renowned Vinland 

Restaurant. During this time, the captain and his 

officers steered the Ocean Atlantic and began our 

transit to Deception Island’s Telefon Bay. 

20 

Deception Island is an active volcano, whose caldera is 

home to the epic landing site we hoped to visit that 

afternoon. The trip into this caldera provided all 

onboard with phenomenal views as we passed the 

world’s largest chinstrap colony at Baily Head, and as 

the bridge officers carefully pushed us through a rocky 

passageway called ‘The Bellows’. Once through the 

Bellows, we anchored outside of Telefon Bay, and with 

seemingly cooperative weather, we proceeded with 

our plan and landed the of our number ashore. 

As some of the group headed out on a walk on the 

island’s rocky shores, others prepared for a polar 

plunge into the island’s famous Port Foster. Whether 

we jumped into the 3 o C waters of Deception Island or 

enjoyed some beautiful sightings of a resting Weddell 

Seal and a handful of chinstrap and gentoo penguins, 

our sunny afternoon at Telefon Bay was one to 

remember as we headed back to the Ocean Atlantic 

and started our northbound journey away from the 

South Shetlands, into the Drake Passage, and toward 

Ushuaia. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Lemaire Channel 


Port Lockroy 



Damoy Point 


Lemaire Channel 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

A Brief History of the Zodiac 

Steve Traynor, Zodiac Master 

In expedition cruising, the most important tool we use is the Zodiac inflatable boat. These manoeuvrable, 

reliable, robust vessels are the workhorse of the expedition cruise industry, from the north of Svalbard to 

the southern end of the Antarctic Peninsula. They have a long history – as you can see from the stages 

below, many different inventions needed to come together to create the craft we use today. 

1838 Charles Goodyear (USA) discovered the process for vulcanising rubber (a US patent was granted 

in 1844) – this process is used for hardening and strengthening rubber. 

1843 Goodyear’s process was stolen by Thomas Hancock (UK) using the process of reverse 

engineering; less controversially, Hancock invented the “masticator” – a machine for re-using 

rubber scraps – this made the rubber industry much more efficient. 

1845 The first successful inflatable boat (Halkett boat) was designed by Lieutenant Peter Halkett 

(UK), specifically for Arctic operations. Halkett Boats were used by the Orcadian explorer, John 

Rae, in his successful expedition to discover the fate of the Franklin Expedition. 

1866 Four men made the first crossing of the Atlantic Ocean from New York to Britain on a threetube 

inflatable raft. 

1896 The original Zodiac company was founded by Maurice Mallet (France) to produce airships. 

1909 The first outboard motor was invented by Ole Evinrude in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

1912 The loss of the Titanic and subsequent shipping losses during World War 1 proved the need for 

inflatable rafts for use as supplementary lifeboats. 

1919 RFD firm (UK) and the Zodiac company (France) started building inflatable boats. 

1934 The airship company, Zodiac, invented the inflatable kayak and catamaran 

1942 The Marine Raiders – an elite unit of the US Marine Corps – used inflatable boats to carry out 

raids and landings in the Pacific theatre. 

1950 Alain Bombard first combined the outboard engine, a rigid floor and an inflatable boat (built by 

the Zodiac company). 

1952 Alain Bombard crossed the Atlantic Ocean with his inflatable; after this, his good friend, the 

famous diver Jacques-Yves Cousteau, started using them. 

1960 Zodiac licensed production to a dozen companies in other countries because of their lack of 

manufacturing capacity in France. 

22 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Antarctica: A Continent for Science 


Until the advent of mass tourism, Antarctica’s tagline was: “A continent for science”. 

23 

Antarctica affects the rest of the world in a variety of 

ways, so “Antarctic Science” should really be “Global 

science that happens in Antarctica”. Although many 

early expeditions were purely geographical in scope, 

there were some important scientific expeditions in the 

late 19 th to early 20 th centuries. In this “Golden Age” of 

exploration, there were many scientific contributions 

from Antarctica which changed our view of the earth’s 

evolution and environment. 

Indeed, three expeditions brought back proof that 

Antarctica once had a warm climate. Scott’s first 

expedition (1901-1904) found coal from 250 million 

years ago in the Transantarctic Mountains; 

Nordenskjӧld’s Swedish Antarctic Expedition found 

warm-water fossils on James Ross Island; and the Scotia 

Expedition under Bruce (1902-1904) dredged 

fossiliferous 500 million-year-old limestone from the 

Weddell Sea. Scott’s second expedition (1910-1913) 

found fossil leaves(Glossopteris) in the Transantarctic 

Mountains. These fossils belong to an extinct order of 

seed ferns from 299-252 million years ago, only found 

in the southern hemisphere continents and India. They 

were used by Wegener in 1924 in his work on 

continental drift to reconstruct the former 

supercontinent of Gondwana. 

In the years after the First World War, the focus 

changed from individual expeditions to national 

pursuits, such as the British Discovery Investigations – 

the first permanent oceanographic body in the world. 

During 33 years (1918–51) of pioneering work, the 

research ships collected an enormous amount of 

oceanographic, biological, and geographical data. 

Among the results of the investigations was the 

discovery of both the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the 

Antarctic Convergence - the natural boundary of 

Antarctica. 

By the end of the Second World War, the move to 

create national organisations was complete, with the 

formation of the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey 

(now British Antarctic Survey), the Australian National 

Research Expeditions) and other civilian operations 

(France, New Zealand, South Africa, etc). 

As a result of these organisations and better logistics, 

the rate of scientific discovery soared, and new polarspecific 

studies proliferated. Some highlights include: 

• 1957-58: The International Geophysical Year (IGY) 

was an 18-month collaboration between 67 

countries. Antarctica was the focus, with 12 nations 

participating. Many new scientific stations were 

created and the IGY was a resounding success as it 

led directly to the Antarctic Treaty 

• 1959-1996: The discovery and delineation of 

subglacial Lake Vostok is a great example of scientific 

cooperation. Lab studies showed that ice under very 

high pressure reverts to water and in 1964, seismic 

soundings from Vostok Station were used to 

measure the thickness of the ice sheet. This 

suggested the existence of a subglacial lake. British 

airborne ice-penetrating radar in the 1970s detected 

unusual radar readings, suggesting a freshwater lake 

below the ice. In 1991, a radar satellite revealed 

that this subglacial water body is one of the world’s 

largest lakes. We now know that there are at least 

140 subglacial lakes in Antarctica. 

• 1980-present: The US-funded collection and curation 

of Antarctic meteorites has recovered about 22,000 

meteorites from Antarctica (about 75% of all known 

meteorites worldwide). There are samples from the 

Moon, Mars, and asteroids. 

• 1985: In hole in the ozone layer over Antarctica was 

discovered from ground-based instruments at Halley 

Bay and Faraday (British Antarctic Survey). 

• 1986: Research at McMurdo Station, the main U.S. 

scientific station in Antarctica, established that 

chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) as the probable cause of 

the Antarctic ozone hole (US NSF). These two bits of 

work lead to signing of the Madrid Protocol on 1987, 

banning CFCs. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Northward Bound 


As we started our journey homeward, we entered the 

Drake Passage. We soon experienced the same rolling 

of the ship that we encountered on our southbound 

voyage, though the gentle motion lulled everyone to 

sleep, until we awoke the next morning to Shelli’s 

typical “welcome to the day”. 

It was a more leisurely start, however, with Shelli 

allowing us to sleep in until 7:45, as we didn’t need to 

climb into our warm clothes, waterproofs, hat, gloves, 

rubber boots, and life jacket nor don our backpacks 

containing our selection of Antarctic essentials, extra 

clothes, and most important of all - our cameras. 

Our first day at sea was a day of entertainment on 

board the Ocean Atlantic, starting with CME 

presentations in the Viking Theatre. After another 

excellent lunch, our kayakers debriefed in the Viking 

Theatre while the rest of us headed up to the Bistro for 

the afternoon’s main activity: samosa making. 

24 

Once samosa making and tea time wrapped up Amanda 

gave a lecture on the fish and fisheries of the Antarctic, 

providing some more information about the mysterious 

world of the sea that supports all of the fantastic sea life 

of the White Continent. 

Soon enough it was time for recap, briefing, and dinner, 

where we got to enjoy the fruits of our culinary efforts. 

Then, we headed back to the Viking Theatre for a Las 

Vegas-themed night - a great ending to our first day at 

sea. 

Whether we were too stuffed from our delicious 

samosas to take part in Las Vegas night or we headed 

out on deck for some bird watching, we had a fantastic 

night on the Ocean Atlantic as we neared the end of our 

Antarctic journey. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

© Renato Granieri Photography 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Fire in the Antarctic 

Gregers Gjersøe, Snowshoe Master & Expedition Guide 

Fire is one of the greatest threats in Antarctica thanks 

to the region’s very dry climate, frequent strong winds, 

and nearly complete lack of liquid freshwater. Due to 

the continent’s isolation with and little possibility of 

rescue for weeks or months, a fire in the Antarctic is a 

potentially very disastrous event. 

Although it is covered in snow and ice, the cold 

temperatures of Antarctica make the White Continent 

very dry. As it is one of the windiest places on Earth, 

there is almost always a strong wind blowing much of 

the time, more than strong enough to fan any flames. 

As the temperatures across the whole continent of 

Antarctica is averaging below freezing, there is unlikely 

to be very much liquid water to fight fires. So, the 

response to fire is usually to make sure everyone is out 

of danger and safe and then stand back and watch it 

burn itself out. 

Bases in Antarctica are often designed to survive fires 

because they are made up of a number of separate 

buildings, each with a significant distance between 

them. Many bases have emergency supplies stored in a 

hut near the base but well away. In these huts, there 

are often enough supplies and ample shelter for the 

base’s crew to be able to survive a fire or emergency 

until help can arrive. 

The Argentine Antarctic base and scientific research 

station, “Brown Station,” is named after Admiral 

William Brown, the father of the Argentine Navy. 

25 

Located on the Sanaviron Peninsula along Paradise 

Harbour’s Danco Coast, from 1951 to 1984 it served as 

a permanent research base, though, since then, it is 

open only during the summer season. 

During its heyday, the station was home to one of the 

most complete biology laboratories on the Antarctic 

Peninsula, featuring a main house, as well as an 

additional building exclusively for scientific research. 

This building was equipped with three labs, a 

photography workshop, an emergency radio station, an 

office and a library. 

Unfortunately, Brown Station’s original facilities were 

burned down by the station’s doctor on 12 April 1984 

after he was ordered to stay on for yet another winter, 

despite the original terms of his contract and his desire 

to see his fiancé once again. As you can imagine, the 

stress of Antarctica’s harsh winter conditions can take 

its toll on residents and explorers of the region, driving 

them to take extreme measures to get back home. 

The doctor simply couldn’t bear to stay on for another 

winter and he couldn’t stand the isolation as the days 

drew darker. His solution? To force an evacuation of 

himself and his colleagues in the only way plausible 

manner: by burning the station down. 

After the fire, the station’s personnel were rescued by 

the USS Hero and taken to United States’ Palmer 

Station. Argentina later rebuilt the base, but it is now 

only occupied during the summer months. The station’s 

doctor was sent to prison for arson and his fiancé 

decided to call off the engagement. 

© Werner Kruse 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

The Beagle Channel 


On the the final morning our Drake Passage crossing, 

we awoke to misty skies and an abundance of seabirds. 

Although the seas had rocked the Ocean Atlantic 

through the night, by early morning, the swell had 

abated a bit and we had a relatively pleasant morning 

on the Southern Ocean. 

Thankfully, we had a later start for the day so we had a 

bit of a lie in before a scrumptious brunch and an 

assortment of CME presentations in the Viking Theatre. 

After lunch, we headed back to the Viking Theatre, 

where Shelli gave us a pre-disembarkation briefing. 

Although we all wish we could spend another ten days 

aboard the Ocean Atlantic in the White Continent, our 

bank accounts wouldn’t condone such activities, so we 

must prepare to bid adieu to the ship that has been our 

home on this amazing voyage. 

Once the briefing was done and dusted, we enjoyed a 

special afternoon tea time on the outer decks, which 

featured ice cream and hot chocolate as we entered the 

calm waters of the Beagle Channel in the early 

afternoon before Jamie gave an informative lecture on 

climate change in the polar regions. 

26 

By early evening, it was time to gather in the Viking 

Lounge one last time for the end of voyage slideshow 

and charity auction, as well as Captain Nikolay’s 

celebratory cocktail hour. We waved a hearty goodbye 

to the journey of a lifetime, taking a moment to reflect 

on our voyage, thanks to Yuri’s immaculately composed 

slideshow of our trip to the White Continent. 

We also had a chance to thank and appreciate the many 

people who made this journey possible, from the 

officers and crew to the Expedition Staff. Finally, it was 

time to head to the Vinland Restaurant for our last 

dinner aboard the Ocean Atlantic, topped off with Chef 

Indra’s spectacular “Death by Chocolate” dessert buffet. 

As we pulled into our berth in Ushuaia, our journey 

drew closer towards its close. However, as we packed 

our bags and prepared to disembark the Ocean Atlantic, 

amid the festivities of the evening, we had the chance to 

appreciate the beauty of the journey of a lifetime and all 

the memories we’ll take with us as we make our way 

home. 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

© Renato Granieri Photography 

Volume 2, Issue 5


Plenau Bay 

Damoy Point 


Danco Island 


Danco Island 


30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

King of the Southern Winds 

Sandra Ophorst, Lecturer & Expedition Guide 

The wandering albatross is an impressive bird with the 

world’s largest wingspan of up to 3.5 meters in length 

and a weight of up to 11 kilograms. Unfortunately, the 

number of wandering albatrosses is rapidly declining 

with only 20,100 individuals left as of October 2019 

(Red List, World Conservation Union) 

The wandering albatross is rarely seen on land and 

gathers only to breed, at which time it forms large 

colonies on remote islands, such as South Georgia. The 

female lays a single white egg and both sexes share 

incubation, which lasts about 60 to 80 days. Both sexes 

feed the youngster by regurgitating food, a process 

that can continue for up to nine months. 

The nesting cycle of wandering albatrosses is so long, 

they can’t complete it in one year. So, they nest every 

other year. When young albatrosses become 

independent and leave their nest site, they begin a 

multi-year foray on the open ocean and will not return 

to land until they are old enough to breed. This can 

take up to 10 years of their 50 year average lifespan. 

28 

The wandering albatross is famous for its dynamic 

flight. They turn into the wind to gain height, then glide 

back down to the sea to gain speed. Sometimes they 

glide for hours without rest or even a single flap of 

their wings. Indeed, this principle was used to design 

airplanes, especially gliders that have albatross-like 

wings. 

As a result of these wings, however, an albatross’ 

landing process often looks a bit comical as their 

narrow wings do not allow for a slow approach. So, 

they often land on their feet and then tumble forward 

and slide on their bellies. The biggest threats to the 

wandering albatross are pollution and large-scale 

commercial tuna fisheries. These tuna fishing boats are 

equipped with up to 20,000 fish baited hooks and 

these lines can be up to 100km long. 

Unfortunately, these fishing lines often attract 

albatrosses get caught up on the hooks and drown as 

they are cast out at sea. Organisations such as Hookpod 

are trying to save the albatrosses from the dangers of 

long line fishing vessels by providing fishing boats with 

“hookpods” that cover the barb and point of the hook 

during setting, reducing the likelihood of an albatross 

by-catch. 

© Gaby Pilson 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

Home Again 

9 December 2019 - Ushuaia 

After last night’s end-of-voyage festivities, we awoke 

much too early for our final morning on the Ocean 

Atlantic. Although we wish we could stay, we started 

the process of leaving behind the ship and the people 

we’ve come to know so well over the past week. 

Our bags were packed and stowed in the corridors, 

ready for our early-morning busses and flights back 

home. After nine whole days immersed in the 

landscapes and amongst the wildlife of the Antarctic, 

it was time to return home or to wherever our life’s 

journeys bring us. 

And so – farewell, adieu, and goodbye. Together we 

have visited and incredible and vast wilderness. We 

have experienced magnificent mountain vistas, seen 

icebergs roll and crack, felt the power of the elements 

and seen how quickly they can change. We enjoyed 

wonder food and comfortable surroundings aboard 

the Ocean Atlantic. 

29 

We boarded zodiacs and cruised through icy bays at 

the end of the Earth. We shared unique moments, 

held engaging conversations, and laughed together 

over beers and coffees. We’ve made new friends and 

experienced the power of expeditionary travel. 

We hope the expedition team has helped make this 

the trip of a lifetime - one that will persist in your 

memories for weeks, months, and years, to come. 

Although we must say good-bye to these places we 

have come to know and love, it is a fond farewell as 

we are all true ambassadors for the Antarctic and all 

the beauty it holds. 

On behalf of Albatros Expeditions, our captain and 

crew, the expedition team, and everyone else who 

helped make this journey a resounding success, it has 

been a pleasure travelling with you. We hope that you 

will come back and experience these wonderful places 

with us once again! 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

By the Numbers… 

30 

Voyage Statistics: 

Southernmost Point: 

Total Distance Travelled: 

65 o 07.227’ S, 64 o 01.075’W 

1606 nautical miles 

Excursion Locations: 

Half Moon Island: 62 o 35’ S 59 o 53’ W 

Danco Island: 64 o 43’ S 62 o 35’ W 

Damoy Point: 64 o 48’ S 63 p 30’ W 

Deception Island: 62 o 59’ S 60 o 33’ W 

Port Lockroy: 64 o 49’ S 63 o 31’ W 

Brown Station: 

Melchior Islands: 

Port Charcot: 

Ushuaia: 

64 o 50’ S 62 o 57’ W 

64 o 18’ S 63 o 02’ W 

65 o 04’ S 64 o 02’ W 

54 o 45’ S 68o23’ W 

During our time on the M/V Ocean Atlantic, we consumed: 

Beef 

Lamb 

Pork 

Poultry 

Cold Cuts 

Fish & Seafood 

Eggs 

Milk 

Cheese 

Ice Cream 

Vegetables 

Fruit 

Assorted Spices 

Wine 

Beer 

Toilet Paper 

220kg 

600kg 

450kg 

1500kg 

120kg 

520kg 

7250 pieces 

620L 

120kg 

200L 

2800kg 

2000kg 

500 packages 

360 bottles 

648 cans 

1242 rolls 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

A Final Note… 

31 

As any good expedition comes to a close, many of us experience the 

effervescent excitement that comes when we immerse ourselves 

completely in an adventure. Although we all came into this voyage with 

our own expectations and personal motivations, on the ship, we quickly 

learned that the best plan is the one that we end up doing. 

While weather and the landscape 

can conspire against us in the 

southern latitudes, the right mindset 

can make all of the difference. 

Wind, rain, sleet, and snow make no 

difference when we come prepared 

for an adventure and all the 

excitement it holds. Whether you 

saw what you came for or you 

experienced something else 

entirely, when you set out on an 

expedition, you come for the 

mountains and the wildlife, but stay 

for people and places you meet 

along the way. 

Although we all eventually have to 

leave behind our beloved Ocean 

Atlantic, there are always a few 

things we can take home from an 

expedition: 

• An acceptance and embracement 

of adversity and uncertainty 

when the natural world alters 

our plans. 

• A fondness for the wild and a 

strong desire to keep remote 

natural locations as beautiful and 

free as they can be. 

• An insatiable interest in learning 

more about the people, places, 

and cultures in some of the most 

remote parts of the world. 

As you unpack you bags, you may 

find souvenirs and keepsakes from 

your journey. Your camera may be 

filled with countless photos, 

however blurry, of the many 

animals and mountains that have 

crossed our paths. At the end of the 

day, however, what matters most is 

the experience of, the journey to, 

and the memories of these wild and 

wonderful places. 

Best wishes from all of us on the 

expedition team as you continue on 

with your adventures! 

Shelli Ogilvy 

Expedition Leader 

Jamie Watts 

Assistant Expedition Leader 

Thank you for experiencing the Antarctic with us at Albatros 

Expeditions. We hope to see you aboard the Ocean Atlantic 

again in the future! 

Christophe Gouraud 

Assistant Expedition Leader 

30 Nov – 9 Dec, 2019 

Volume 2, Issue 5

South Shetlands & Antarctic Peninsula V5

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