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AphroChic Magazine: Issue No. 2

Issue 2 of AphroChic Magazine is another visually stunning journey into the African Diaspora, the histories that define us and the stories that hold us together. In this issue we step inside the home of model and activist, Nikia Phoenix, visit the National Museum of African American History and Culture, review the sounds of Rapsody and provide readers with a holiday gift guide for everyone on your list.

Issue 2 of AphroChic Magazine is another visually stunning journey into the African Diaspora, the histories that define us and the stories that hold us together. In this issue we step inside the home of model and activist, Nikia Phoenix, visit the National Museum of African American History and Culture, review the sounds of Rapsody and provide readers with a holiday gift guide for everyone on your list.

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APHROCHIC<br />

a curated lifestyle magazine<br />

ISSUE NO. 2 \ VOLUME 1 \ WINTER 19/20<br />

ALL THOSE WHO WANDER \ BEAUTIFUL EMBRACE \ TELLING OUR STORY<br />

APHROCHIC.COM


<strong>Issue</strong> 2 of <strong>AphroChic</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> is another visually stunning journey into the African Diaspora,<br />

the histories that define us, and the stories that hold us together. In this issue, we’re happy<br />

to introduce a new feature section - Sounds. Music reviewer, Henry Adaso takes a look at<br />

Rapsody’s Eve and the <strong>No</strong>rth Carolina MC’s ode to the power of Black women. We travel to<br />

Washington, DC to walk the halls of the National Museum of African American History and<br />

Culture and experience this celebration of our unique part of America’s national story. And we<br />

explore Diaspora fashion concepts coming out of Melbourne, Australia.<br />

For our second cover story, we are beyond excited to be featuring model and activist, Nikia<br />

Phoenix. With a fur coat and “Hey Black Girl, You’re Beautiful” tee, Nikia shows us how winter<br />

is done on the West Coast. Inside, she shares the philosophy behind The Nikia Phoenix Podcast<br />

while giving us a guided tour of her beautiful Los Angeles home - designed by <strong>AphroChic</strong>!<br />

Rounding out this issue, we continue our exploration of the African Diaspora concept<br />

beginning with a look at the history that formed it, from Abolition to The Harlem Renaissance.<br />

And in Hot Topic we explore a different side of social media. Beneath its arguably shallow<br />

exterior lies an important tool in the ongoing battle over representation. We’ll explore the<br />

history of our fight to be seen and the ways social media can help tip the scales.<br />

Finally, for the holidays, we’re offering our first gift guide, full of amazing pieces for<br />

her, him, and the kids. And it doesn’t stop there. Visit our Pinterest boards for an even larger<br />

selection of holiday gifts with options for everyone else on your list.<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> 2 of <strong>AphroChic</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> embraces the combination of artistry and activism that<br />

defines so much of Diaspora culture. These stories inspire us, and we can’t wait to share them<br />

with you.<br />

Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason<br />

Founders, <strong>AphroChic</strong><br />

Instagram: @aphrochic<br />

editors’ letter<br />

With our cover model Nikia Phoenix<br />

Photo:Genevieve Garruppo


WINTER 19/20<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

Read This, 10<br />

Visual Cues, 12<br />

It’s a Family Affair, 14<br />

Coming Up, 20<br />

Mood/Gift Guides, 22<br />

FEATURES<br />

Fashion // All Those Who Wander, 28<br />

Interior Design // Beautiful Embrace, 40<br />

Food // Heart & Soul, 58<br />

Entertaining // Perfect Holiday, 64<br />

Travel // Telling Our Story, 82<br />

Reference // The Roots of Diaspora, 98<br />

Sound // Rapsody’s Eve, 104<br />

PINPOINT<br />

Artists & Artisans, 108<br />

Hot Topic, 116<br />

Who Are You, 120


CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Cover Photo: Genevieve Garruppo<br />

Publishers/Editors: Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason<br />

Creative Director: Cheminne Taylor-Smith<br />

Contact:<br />

<strong>AphroChic</strong><br />

Brooklyn, NY<br />

<strong>AphroChic</strong>.com<br />

info@aphrochic.com<br />

Contributors:<br />

Chinasa Cooper<br />

Henry Adaso<br />

Patrick Cline<br />

issue two 9


READ THIS<br />

History informs modern life, like a thread that can be followed through a woven fabric. Each of our books<br />

in this issue offers that thread of history. There is the refocus on heirloom plants and the “old ways” of<br />

cooking reflected in Jubilee. The book spans 200 years of African American cooking, pairing modern<br />

dishes with their historic counterparts. Olympic Pride, American Prejudice examines the politics of race<br />

and sports, where athletes have to choose between representing their country or themselves - definitely<br />

a theme that continues today. And Art and Race Matters focuses on the groundbreaking work of Robert<br />

Colescott whose searing and satirical work inspires art and artists today.<br />

Art and Race Matters: The Career of Robert<br />

Colescott. Edited by Raphaela Platow and<br />

Lowery Stokes Sims.<br />

Publisher: Rizzoli Electa. $54<br />

Jubiliee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African<br />

American Cooking. Written by<br />

Toni Tipton-Martin.<br />

Publisher: Potter/Ten Speed. $35<br />

Olympic Pride, American Prejudice.<br />

Written by Deborah Riley Draper and<br />

Travis Thrasher. Publisher: Atria. $28<br />

10 aphrochic


VISUAL CUES<br />

What would you sacrifice to keep your culture alive? That’s the question behind All on a Mardi Gras Day,<br />

a documentary by filmaker Michal Pietrzyk. Demond Melancon spends all year creating a masterpiece<br />

designed to be worn only one time, on Mardi Gras. He’s part of a 200-year-old culture known as Mardi<br />

Gras Indians: African American men who make feathered suits to honor their runaway slave ancestors<br />

and the Native American tribes who housed them during their escape. Demond works around the clock,<br />

sacrificing even his job, to be a part of the Mardi Gras tradition, when hundreds of Indians from all over<br />

the city present their year’s work and confront one another in battles to decide who’s “the prettiest.” The<br />

filmaker was given behind-the-scenes access to the secretive Indians and Demond’s creative process<br />

as he works obsessively to finish his creation. This layered story highlights history, beauty, art, social<br />

commentary, and irony. The film will now compete at the upcoming Academy Awards, where it qualified<br />

in the Best Documentary Short Subject category. Learn more at allonamardigrasday.com.<br />

12 aphrochic issue two 13


IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR<br />

Inspired by the Past<br />

By the 1960s, the home my mother lived in was full. The house roster included my mom, Jacqueline, my<br />

grandmother Syjunia, and my great-grandmother, Mama, as well as my great-aunts, Debbie and Elaine,<br />

great-uncle, Allen, and cousin Gordon (who the family affectionately referred to as “Snuffy”). Like for<br />

so many other Black families, “the house” was the official hub of my family’s life. It was the setting<br />

for countless family events from Sunday dinners to proms, holiday gatherings and late-night penuchle<br />

games. “Our house was the center,” my mom confirms. “We were there for every holiday. Everybody<br />

would come [for] Mother’s Day, Easter, Christmas, it was always at the house.”<br />

The area in <strong>No</strong>rth Philadelphia<br />

where my family home is located was<br />

once farmland that later became the<br />

hub of Philadelphia’s industrial revolution.<br />

In William Penn’s day, it was where<br />

the landed nouveau riche built homes to<br />

separate themselves from the old guard.<br />

Though not old enough to have stood<br />

during those days, the house is a beautifully<br />

appointed Philadelphia row home.<br />

The front door opens into the sun<br />

room. Over the years it’s been used as<br />

either a large entryway or its own room. In<br />

either configuration, its open portals lead<br />

directly into the living room. As a kid, the<br />

sun room was my favorite place to play -<br />

after the living room, which was where the<br />

television was.<br />

It was mostly empty then, a perfect<br />

place for being in my own world while<br />

staying out of the way. Today, my nephew<br />

enjoys it for the same reason. But long<br />

before either of us arrived to fill the space<br />

with our toys and imaginings, it was the<br />

room where Christmas morning took<br />

place. And on one special day, it was where<br />

my Aunt Elaine got married.<br />

Over the years, the sun room and<br />

living room, like the rest of the home, aged<br />

and fell into disrepair. For Jeanine and me,<br />

the goal of the renovation was to restore<br />

these spaces to their 1960s glamour. The<br />

family archivist, my mother, shared a<br />

trove of old photos and stories of the house.<br />

The new design of the two rooms was<br />

inspired by the memories kept in these<br />

old images. We started with a full-spectrum<br />

gray-blue paint color that was<br />

close to the room’s original shade. The<br />

soft pastel created a cool contrast, highlighting<br />

some of the most stunning<br />

hardwood floors we’ve seen in a home,<br />

as well as the winding wood staircase that’s<br />

a feature in many Philadelphia row homes.<br />

Sometime between the 60s and 90s,<br />

the sun room’s original mauve wall was<br />

painted in a lighter shade. The change<br />

opened up the space, letting in lots more<br />

natural light. To highlight the room’s architectural<br />

features we extended the paint<br />

all the way to the ceilings to highlight the<br />

classic crown molding. Hand-me-down<br />

furniture was replaced with new family<br />

heirlooms.<br />

My grandmother’s once beautiful upholstered<br />

settee was replaced with an embroidered<br />

floral chaise. In the corner, a<br />

brass table from a family friend was used<br />

to add a metallic touch. And our Amur<br />

Table Lamp is a new heirloom that we were<br />

happy to see accenting the family home.<br />

The wall color extends into the living<br />

room, creating a sense of unity while highlighting<br />

the architectural details of both<br />

rooms. Old photos show family gathered<br />

in the living room in beautifully silhouetted<br />

coats, dresses and suits. These striking<br />

images inspired us to create a room that<br />

feels both elegant and family-friendly. The<br />

velvet blue chairs and tufted, vegan-leather<br />

chesterfield are a call back to a more<br />

elegant time.<br />

My mother often tells me about how<br />

proud she was to have grown up in a home<br />

run by strong women. They worked hard to<br />

get the house they lived in, and even harder<br />

to keep it. As generations passed, it stayed<br />

in the family. And though it’s no longer<br />

the center of our lives, it’s as familiar and<br />

loved as any member of the family. I’m<br />

equally proud to have these women as part<br />

of my heritage and happy for the opportunity<br />

to show my gratitude by restoring the<br />

home that they loved. AC<br />

It‘s a Family Affair is an ongoing series<br />

focusing on the history of the Black family<br />

home, stories from the Harper family,<br />

and the renovations and restorations of a<br />

house that bonds this family.<br />

Photos from Harper Family Archives<br />

Words by Bryan Mason<br />

14 aphrochic issue two 15


IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR<br />

BEFORE<br />

Living room<br />

Sun room<br />

AFTER<br />

Living room<br />

Living room<br />

Sun room<br />

16 aphrochic issue two 17


IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR


COMING UP<br />

Events, exhibits, and happenings that celebrate and explore the African Diaspora.<br />

Black History Luncheon<br />

Washington, DC<br />

Feb. 23, 2020<br />

The 94th Annual Black History Luncheon is hosted by the<br />

Association for the Study of African American Life and History,<br />

the founders of Black History Month. The Luncheon kicks<br />

off Black History Month events, this year with the theme<br />

African Americans and the Vote. For more information or<br />

tickets, go to asalh.org.<br />

Ankara Miami<br />

Miami<br />

Feb. 20-23, 2020<br />

An international ruway show committed to featuring emerging<br />

and established designers from the African Diaspora, including<br />

creatives from Africa, the Caribbean, and the United<br />

States. Events include the Diaspora Fashion Talk, receptions,<br />

showcases, and pop-up shops. For more informaton or for<br />

tickets, to to ankaramiamiweek.com.<br />

Detroit Collects<br />

Detroit<br />

Through March 1, 2020<br />

An exhibition at the Detroit Institute of Arts highlights the<br />

rich history of collecting African American art in Detroit. The<br />

show features artwork from 19 local private collections (much<br />

of which is making its public debut), highlighting an incredible<br />

selection of works in diverse media spanning the 19th century to<br />

today. The exhibition features work by artists including Romare<br />

Bearden, Nick Cave, Beauford Delaney, Carrie Mae Weems,<br />

Rashid Johnson, Archibald J. Motley Jr., Martin Puryear, Al<br />

Loving, and Alison Saar. Learn more at dia.org.<br />

20 aphrochic


MOOD<br />

Holiday Gifts for Everyone on Your List<br />

GIFTS<br />

FOR<br />

HER<br />

<strong>AphroChic</strong> x Kim Johnson Studios Pillow<br />

This cushion is inspired by Katherine Dunham, one of the greatest<br />

exponents of dance culture in the African Diaspora and one of its<br />

most groundbreaking ethnographers. Cast in dynamic and exuberant<br />

postures, watercolor dancers are a showcase of the energy and<br />

life that characterized Dunham’s career.<br />

GIFTS<br />

FOR<br />

KIDS<br />

Dunham Pillow<br />

$169<br />

Effie’s Paper Mug<br />

The bright, metallic letters on this glossy black ceramic mug spell<br />

out her perfect morning mantra. Roomy enough for a cup of coffee<br />

or tea to get the morning started, the message on this mug will<br />

help push her through the rest of whatever the day holds.<br />

UNWRP<br />

Artist Reyna <strong>No</strong>riega designed this vibrant print fabric featuring<br />

a stunning afro silhouette at the center. Designed as a reusable<br />

wrapping cloth, we love the idea of framing Dream Girls as a work<br />

of art, or wearing this fabric as a scarf or headwrap.<br />

Jada Handmade Keepsake Doll<br />

$98<br />

HarperIman Dolls<br />

Get Shit Done Coffee Mug<br />

$20<br />

Little Legends: Exceptional Men in Black<br />

History by Vashti Harrison. $17.99<br />

Publisher: Little, Brown Young Readers<br />

Dream Girls<br />

$22<br />

22 aphrochic issue two 23


MOOD<br />

GIFTS<br />

FOR<br />

HIM<br />

Cranberry Raspberry<br />

Sage Jam<br />

$14<br />

Soéle Sweater<br />

Infusing the luxury knitwear market with the<br />

style and heritage of Black culture, this Soéle<br />

sweater is ethically made, knitted from soft,<br />

high-quality alpaca from Peru. Intended to be<br />

an heirloom piece, it’s fashion that seamlessly<br />

combines heritage and modernity, quality and<br />

Tegrida Unisex Toffee Sweater<br />

$130<br />

Ceramic Coasters<br />

$48<br />

GIFTS<br />

FOR<br />

THEM<br />

function.<br />

Black Pepper Paperie Co.<br />

Pivet Case<br />

Offering state-of-the-art protection for that new<br />

smartphone on your wishlist, this case features<br />

a unique, hand-crafted texture. Extra thin, with<br />

major drop protection, it will keep your phone<br />

intact while looking good combining a clean and<br />

clear, minimalist design with a scratch and stain<br />

resistant coating.<br />

Glacier+ Pro Luna<br />

Moonstone Case<br />

$39<br />

Handmade in Washington, DC, these stoneware and ceramic glaze<br />

coasters are the creation of artisan Hadiya Williams. This one-of-akind<br />

set features a modern ancestral design rooted in memory and<br />

inspired by cultural influences from across the African Diaspora.<br />

Trade Street Jam Co.<br />

Perfect for the holiday season, this Cranberry Raspberry Sage Jam is<br />

sure to spice up any hostess gift. Cranberry, raspberry, sugar, fresh<br />

sage, orange zest, cinnamon, and nutmeg come together for a jam<br />

Sensual Candle Co.<br />

Laidback, effortless and fresh, this candle is a<br />

that can be a surprising twist on traditional cranberry sauce or make<br />

a splash as part of a cocktail or dessert.<br />

perfect self care present for him. Mixing notes<br />

of lemongrass, sage and ginger, Lowkey’s light,<br />

relaxing scent is an effortless combination of the<br />

unexpected that will create just the right vibe for<br />

a calm and comfortable evening after a long and<br />

hectic day.<br />

Lowkey Sensual<br />

Candle<br />

$36<br />

Kala Floor Basket<br />

$695<br />

54kibo<br />

The Gisenyi Floor Basket is a beautiful and functional piece for the<br />

modern home. This stylish contemporary African basket can hold<br />

everything from blankets and toys to holiday gifts. Handmade in<br />

Uganda, the bold geometric design is woven with natural and richly<br />

dyed fibers.<br />

24 aphrochic issue two 25


FEATURES<br />

All Those Who Wander | Beautiful Embrace | Heart & Soul | Perfect<br />

Holiday | Telling Our Story | The Roots of Diaspora | Rapsody’s Eve


Fashion<br />

All Those<br />

Who Wander<br />

Sisters Fatuma and Laurinda Ndenzako, founders<br />

of Collective Closets, take us on a journey in their<br />

brightly hued winter collection, The Wanderer.<br />

Photos courtesy of Collective Closets<br />

Words by Jeanine Hays<br />

28 aphrochic


Fashion<br />

Born in Nairobi, Kenya, and raised in Melbourne, Australia,<br />

these sisters bridge two distinctive worlds, criss-crossing<br />

the Indian Ocean and blending the brightly patterned shuka<br />

worn by Maasai warriors with the strong silhouettes of<br />

modern Australian fashion.<br />

The shuka, traditionally reserved for blankets worn by the<br />

nomadic warriors, takes on a new dimension as striped and<br />

checkered culotte pants, flare sleeved tops and an apron<br />

tunic. A celebration of the nomadic spirit, the patterns in<br />

this collection represent resilience, power, and strength; a<br />

modern day armor for those venturing into the unknown.<br />

A Maasai Proverb states, “<strong>No</strong>body can say he is settled<br />

anywhere forever; it is only the mountains which do not<br />

move from their places.” For all who wander, not lost but<br />

unafraid of the path before them, this collection is for you. AC<br />

View the collection at collectiveclosets.com.au<br />

issue two 31


Fashion


Fashion


Fashion<br />

issue two 37


Fashion<br />

38 aphrochic issue two 39


Interior Design<br />

Beautiful<br />

Embrace<br />

Inside the LA Home of Model and<br />

Activist Nikia Phoenix<br />

Photos by Genevieve Garruppo<br />

Words by <strong>AphroChic</strong>: Jeanine Hays & Bryan Mason<br />

Interior Design: <strong>AphroChic</strong><br />

40 aphrochic issue two 41


Interior Design<br />

Nikia Phoenix loves the skin she’s in, and she wants you to love yours just as much. Once<br />

the awkward girl with freckles, the model now known for her gorgeous skin knows that<br />

the road to feeling at home with yourself is neither short nor straight. Yet she’d be the<br />

first to suggest that it’s the one best travelled, and that the best thing about traveling it is<br />

that there’s no need to do it alone.<br />

That was the driving sentiment behind<br />

Black Girl Beautiful, the 23andMe star’s<br />

self-and-communal love brand aimed at Black<br />

women everywhere and of all ages.<br />

The writer, model and content creator’s<br />

gorgeous Los Angeles apartment is the perfect<br />

balance of inspirational style and restorative<br />

atmosphere to support every aspect of<br />

her multi-hyphenate creative life. Balance<br />

is important in a life that juggles modeling,<br />

brand events, podcasting, and the constant<br />

travel needed to sustain all three. Most of us<br />

travel to get away from everyday life, but when<br />

everyday life is lived on the road, home is the<br />

special event, the escape, and it needs to feel<br />

that way.<br />

Sitting on a quiet residential street in<br />

LA’s Korean Town, the building appears like<br />

a dream of Hollywood’s Golden Age. Built in<br />

the 1920s, its sunny, yellow concrete exterior<br />

is accented by bright crimson blooms of wild<br />

bougainvillea vines. The unruly plants climb<br />

the outside of the building from the lawn to the<br />

second floor where they frame Nikia’s front<br />

window. The flowers end just under the terracotta<br />

tiled roof that completes the home’s<br />

classic LA look.<br />

Originally from South Carolina, growing<br />

up as the girl with a constellation of freckles<br />

wasn’t always easy for Nikia. Kids teased her<br />

for being different, something that stuck with<br />

her even as her freckles made her stand out<br />

in the most exceptional ways in campaigns<br />

for Coca-Cola, Target, or as the mysterious<br />

beauty in Usher’s “Good Kisser” video. Before<br />

that, her childhood fantasies of modeling<br />

were set aside in favor of a more traditional<br />

path that led through college to a career<br />

in broadcast news. But then an unexpected<br />

encounter signaled a chance to be what<br />

she’d always wanted to be. “A big opportunity<br />

presented itself out of thin air years after<br />

I’d walked away from my dreams of being a<br />

model,” she recalls. “I knew it was fate.”<br />

For Nikia, experiences with racism and<br />

misogyny, along with the uniquely perception-bending<br />

concept of beauty that models<br />

both promote and are subject to, led to a need<br />

to speak up. Though she was no longer a journalist,<br />

the experience had prepared her when<br />

issue two 43


Interior Design<br />

the opportunity arose to marry her sense of<br />

advocacy with the platform provided by being<br />

a popular model. The initial result was Model<br />

Liberation, a blog aimed at creating conversation<br />

and community for those, like Nikia,<br />

working to find their way in the industry. That<br />

effort quickly expanded from an industry<br />

focus to include all Black women, transforming<br />

into the multi-tiered brand experience,<br />

Black Girl Beautiful.<br />

“Black Girl Beautiful came about because<br />

of both inspirational and economic reasons,”<br />

Nikia relates. “I read all these consumer<br />

reports that validated what I already knew<br />

- African American women far outspend<br />

women of other ethnicities on beauty<br />

products. I wondered how we could drop<br />

so much money and not have more beauty<br />

brands cater to us? Then the self-love aspect<br />

came in. Why do we really spend so much? Are<br />

we trying to fix something about ourselves?”<br />

Ultimately Nikia decided that the only<br />

thing in need of fixing was anything that<br />

denied Black women the opportunity to see<br />

themselves as beautiful or convinced them<br />

that to be beautiful meant covering themselves<br />

in the artificial. Most of all, she rejects<br />

the notion that there is only one way to be a<br />

Black woman. “We have to celebrate our individuality<br />

and differences while also recognizing<br />

our oneness. We are here for the<br />

everyday Black girl, the round-the-way girl,<br />

the awkward Black girl, the alternative Black<br />

girl, and more. African American women are<br />

not monolithic, one dimensional characters.<br />

We’re real people. The more we acknowledge<br />

that while still shining our light, the better we<br />

will be.”<br />

For the beauty advocate home is an<br />

important space. “Home is a sacred place<br />

carved out of love and tranquility away from<br />

the hustle and bustle of the world,” she<br />

reflects. From the very first glance, her home<br />

is a well-crafted retreat. From the bright pops<br />

of pink in the furniture and art to the curved<br />

arches that define the passages from room to<br />

room, each room greets you with a soft enveloping<br />

embrace of color and texture.<br />

“They are gorgeous,” she muses about<br />

her living room chairs. “They have this soft<br />

blush tone and the design hugs your body<br />

while still maintaining an elegant structure.”<br />

They’re the perfect balance to the gray sofa<br />

that completes the seating ensemble in her<br />

living room, yet in the light of a setting sun<br />

they pair with the art to cast the whole room<br />

in a light pink hue. Nikia admits that it’s all by<br />

design. “There’s a softness to my apartment<br />

that makes it inviting,” she says.<br />

On the other side of her favorite archway,<br />

the living room gives way to the dining room<br />

and her personal office. Like the living room,<br />

the space shows Nikia’s facility with blending<br />

influences, mixing mid-century, modern and<br />

global influences seamlessly.<br />

“I love a combination of clean mid-century<br />

Scandinavian with more intricate pieces<br />

from India and Africa,” she reflects. “Much<br />

of the furniture in the space is <strong>No</strong>rdic in style<br />

and function but also extremely comfortable.<br />

I have pieces that are simple enough that you<br />

can enjoy them as-is or funk them up with<br />

44 aphrochic


Interior Design<br />

accents of stripes, mudcloth, or bold color.”<br />

Throughout the home, Nikia is intentional<br />

in her use of art. Art punctuates the<br />

space with visual reminders affirming beauty,<br />

self-care and positive thinking. Perhaps her<br />

most creative space is the moodboard that<br />

occupies the wall just above the computer<br />

in her office. A constantly-changing cloud<br />

of images and notes, pages clipped from<br />

magazines or words of affirmation, this space<br />

is the nerve center of her creativity and the<br />

inspiration for her collection. “I appreciate<br />

that every inch of my home looks like a vision<br />

board complete with inspirational images<br />

and words,” she says. “I love the artwork in<br />

my home from the black cat canvas to the ‘self<br />

love’ art. It’s a mix of abstract with fun and a<br />

pop of color.”<br />

Like her living room, Nikia’s bedroom<br />

is awash in California sunlight delivered<br />

through generously-sized windows. She is<br />

quick to admit that it was a major selling point<br />

for the space, saying, “I like my home to be full<br />

of light and comfort. Lots of windows create<br />

the sanctuary I need.” But where the living<br />

room sun lights on colorful furnishings, collections<br />

of art and architectural flourishes,<br />

in the bedroom it finds a minimalist space<br />

built for serenity. Neutral tones on the walls<br />

and bedding together with a lack of extraneous<br />

furniture create a true oasis, a space away<br />

from the rest of the world. As Nikia puts it, “It<br />

is where I start my day, clear my head, and<br />

snuggle up to sleep.” It’s also a space that her<br />

followers are familiar with, as she regularly<br />

shares morning affirmations right from the<br />

comfort of her bed.<br />

Nikia’s been sharing even more in season<br />

three of The Nikia Phoenix Podcast. In it, she<br />

explores firsthand a question she often poses,<br />

“How can we expect for others to love us if we<br />

don’t love ourselves completely and unconditionally?”<br />

Her stream-of-consciousness<br />

commentary is unflinchingly honest - equal<br />

parts meditation and confessional. “I want<br />

us to have more open and honest conversations<br />

about the state of Black womanhood,”<br />

she professes. “I want Black women to know<br />

that we are loved and valued and all that<br />

starts from within ourselves. We have so<br />

much power, and I want to help us tap into all<br />

of it and really thrive. When we’ve achieved<br />

that, then I will know Black Girl Beautiful has<br />

served its purpose.”<br />

Nikia is an unabashed advocate of<br />

natural beauty, and supports every Black<br />

woman in finding what is beautiful not only<br />

in themselves, but in each other. Her love of<br />

Black women is evident on the walls of her<br />

home, and shines brightly throughout her<br />

work.<br />

Earlier this year, her brand completed<br />

one of its proudest moments, the unveiling<br />

of the “Hey Brown Girl, You’re Beautiful!”<br />

mural in downtown Atlanta. Created in collaboration<br />

with muralist Faatimah Stevens<br />

as well as musician, Mary Akpa and photographer,<br />

Nikk Rich, the project encapsulates<br />

at once, everything that Nikia wants to<br />

offer to Black women: an affirmation of their<br />

worthiness and the reassurance that they<br />

are seen. AC


Interior Design<br />

issue two 51


Interior Design<br />

52 aphrochic


“African American women<br />

are not monolithic, one<br />

dimensional characters.<br />

We’re real people.”


Interior Design


Food<br />

Heart & Soul<br />

Jocelyn Delk Adams Brings Us Sweet Things from the Heart<br />

Photos by Chuck Olu-Alabi<br />

Words by Jeanine Hays<br />

58 aphrochic issue two 59


Food<br />

Family is at<br />

the heart<br />

For Jocelyn Delk Adams, founder of<br />

Grandbaby Cakes, family is where everything<br />

begins. The food blogger, turned<br />

cookbook author, turned television personality,<br />

was once just a little girl absorbing<br />

all of the knowledge and love there was<br />

to be found in a family kitchen. From the<br />

beginning, Jocelyn’s baking, with its focus<br />

on sweet treats and fond memories, has<br />

centered on the influence of a central<br />

character: her grandmother, “Big Mama.”<br />

Big Mama is Maggie Small, Adam’s<br />

maternal grandmother, who hails from the<br />

small town of Winona, Mississippi. Among<br />

her favorite memories, Jocelyn remembers<br />

making the 10-hour trip from Chicago to<br />

Winona to visit her grandparents.<br />

As she tells it, from the moment of her<br />

arrival, baking was the first thing on her<br />

mind. Sometimes a cake would be waiting,<br />

but on the best occasions the women in her<br />

family would gather; her mother, auntie and<br />

grandmother would roll up their sleeves and<br />

the work - and the fun - would begin. Those<br />

moments, the experience of being among<br />

the women in her family would inspire<br />

Jocelyn to start her food blog, a tribute to her<br />

family’s baking genius and to the love that<br />

inspired it.<br />

From there, she would go on to launch<br />

a cookbook replete with recipes like Mama’s<br />

7UP Pound Cake, Aunt Irene’s Apricot Nectar<br />

Cake, and Johnnie Mae’s Seven-Flavor<br />

Pound Cake, the names stirring up warm<br />

feelings of home while calling out each contributor<br />

to the legacy the baker is heir to.<br />

Each recipe reads like a family<br />

narrative, telling stories of special<br />

moments, sometimes with notes on a particular<br />

ingredient or flourish preferred by<br />

a specific member of her family. Jocelyn’s<br />

recipes are not only reflective of her own<br />

story, but they speak to a story recognized<br />

by many Black American families and the<br />

Diaspora as a whole. For many of us, baking<br />

with Grandmom, Nana, Mom-Mom or Big<br />

Mama, getting the sugar, getting in the way,<br />

memorizing the steps, and licking the bowl<br />

once everything was in the oven, are all<br />

familiar moments whether they happened<br />

at the holidays, at parties or on the special<br />

occasion that was every Sunday night.<br />

They were moments of connection where<br />

kitchens became classrooms. Life lessons<br />

were passed down with recipes, memories<br />

were made along with cakes, sweet rolls and<br />

cornbread.<br />

This year, just in time for the holidays,<br />

Jocelyn shares another family favorite:<br />

a chocolate pound cake with a peppermint<br />

ganache. The flavors are perfect for<br />

the season, and portions can be tweaked<br />

for sharing with a large group or among an<br />

intimate selection of loved ones.<br />

“In my family, baking has always been<br />

a gesture of love, especially during this time<br />

of year. I love getting in the kitchen with my<br />

mother and aunt and baking up something<br />

special we can give away. However, this<br />

ultimate chocolate pound cake with peppermint<br />

ganache glaze is one that we definitely<br />

love to savor ourselves.” AC<br />

of the story.<br />

60 aphrochic issue two 61


Food<br />

Chocolate Pound Cake with Peppermint Ganache Glaze<br />

FOR THE CAKE<br />

¼ cup semisweet chocolate chips<br />

1 ½ cups unsalted butter, room temperature (3 sticks)<br />

2 ¾ cups granulated sugar<br />

5 large eggs, room temperature<br />

2 ¼ cups sifted all-purpose flour<br />

¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder<br />

½ teaspoon instant coffee powder<br />

½ teaspoon baking powder<br />

½ teaspoon salt<br />

1 ⅓ cups buttermilk, room temperature<br />

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract<br />

FOR THE GLAZE<br />

½ cup heavy cream<br />

2 teaspoons corn syrup<br />

½ cup semisweet chocolate chips<br />

¼ teaspoon Peppermint Extract<br />

Crushed holiday peppermint for garnish<br />

For the Cake:<br />

Preheat your oven to 325°F. Liberally prepare a 12-cup Bundt pan with the nonstick method of your choice.<br />

Pour the chocolate chips into a medium microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high for 15 seconds at a time, stirring after each<br />

heating interval, until the chocolate is melted.<br />

In the bowl of your stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the butter for 2 minutes on high speed. Slowly add<br />

the granulated sugar. Cream together for an additional 5 minutes, until very pale yellow and fluffy. Add the eggs 1 at a time,<br />

combining well after each addition and scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed.<br />

Turn your mixer down to its lowest speed and slowly add the flour in 2 batches. Be careful not to overbeat. Add the cocoa<br />

powder, coffee powder, baking powder, and salt. Lastly, add the melted chocolate, buttermilk, and vanilla extract. Make sure the<br />

chocolate cools slightly so as to not curdle the buttermilk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and mix the batter until<br />

just combined. Be careful to not overmix.<br />

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 70 to 80 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake<br />

comes out clean. Check frequently to ensure you do not overbake this cake.<br />

Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then invert onto a serving plate. Let cool to room temperature. Lightly<br />

cover the cake with foil or plastic wrap so it does not dry out.<br />

For the Glaze:<br />

In a small saucepan, add heavy cream and corn syrup and heat over medium heat until hot.<br />

Remove from heat then stir in chocolate. Continue to whisk until smooth then add in peppermint extract and allow to cool and<br />

thicken.<br />

Drizzle over cooled cake and let set. Garnish with crushed peppermint candy and serve.<br />

Serves 16<br />

Explore the Grandbaby Cakes Cookbook for more holiday recipes.<br />

62 aphrochic issue two 63


Entertaining<br />

Perfect<br />

Holiday<br />

Our Editors Host A Sweet Celebration in Brooklyn<br />

Written and Produced<br />

by <strong>AphroChic</strong>:<br />

Jeanine Hays & Bryan Mason<br />

Photos by Chinasa Cooper<br />

Styling Assistant, Tanika Goudeau<br />

Hochhauser<br />

64 aphrochic


Christmas is one of our favorite holidays. Every year the season brings up memories of growing<br />

up in Philadelphia. As kids we couldn’t wait to get to the Wannemaker Building to see the<br />

Christmas Light Show and tour the world of Ebenezer Scrooge in the animatronic Dickens<br />

Village. We’d walk beneath the dazzling ornaments hung in Rittenhouse Square before going<br />

home to sit with moms and grandmoms to be reminded of the parts of the holiday that aren’t<br />

about trees and toys.<br />

There was more family, food and fun than at any other part of<br />

the year. And - at least for a while - we didn’t have to go to school. It<br />

was a magical time, and each year we try to share the same warm<br />

feelings we remember with our New York family, transforming our<br />

home into a winter wonderland just in time for our big party.<br />

Our apartment isn’t huge, so getting it in shape for a party,<br />

even a small one, takes some creative designing. This year, while<br />

the decor included a few nods to traditional holiday accessories,<br />

we wanted the feel of this celebration to be more sophisticated and<br />

modern. We decided to start by moving away from the customary<br />

palette of reds and greens to embrace brighter hues with more<br />

contemporary accents. To inspire our new color story, we took a<br />

cue from a piece we live with every day: our Cameroonian juju hat.<br />

With its bright, fuchsia color as a base, we set out to find hot pink<br />

ribbon for the wreath and tree with baubles to match. Echoing<br />

the bright accessories, the sofa was loaded with pillows from our<br />

textile collection, including a Congolese-inspired kuba print in<br />

purple and fuchsia.<br />

With so many bold colors on display, we needed to find a way<br />

to balance the intensity. Muted shades of gray and black were the<br />

perfect solution, but we needed a way to add them in that was still<br />

fun. Lining the mantel with gray, felt trees was a great way to get<br />

the color we needed along with a cozy texture that added to the<br />

aesthetic. As an added touch, we were thrilled to display our collection<br />

of black glass nutcrackers and reindeer, a cool update to the<br />

older wooden versions. Finally, we layered in our favorite metallics<br />

- silver, gold and a touch of copper to give the space a warm, holiday<br />

glow.<br />

For this year’s celebration we invited over a creative crowd<br />

from Brooklyn and beyond. We were happy to host floral-enthusiast<br />

Emily Howard Kudva and her husband, Suren, interior designer<br />

(and Jeanine’s sister) Angela Belt, journalist Jessica Cumberbatch<br />

Anderson with her husband Matt and designer Tanika Goudeau<br />

Hochhauser with her husband Brian. We were even happier to see<br />

their kids. Roxanne Kudva, Brooklyn Belt and August Anderson<br />

were the life of the party as we gathered for an evening of good<br />

issue two 67


Entertaining


Entertaining<br />

food, soulful holiday classics, and gift-giving.<br />

Environmental touches are a big<br />

part of any seasonal gathering, and for us,<br />

that starts with music. We had everything<br />

from Motown holiday standards to new<br />

classics by Boyz II Men setting the perfect<br />

mood. Stevie Wonder and Andra Day sang<br />

Someday At Christmas, with a refreshing<br />

new sound. Meanwhile, candles burned on<br />

the mantel, adding light and fragrance to<br />

the room, while guests big and small made<br />

quick work of gingerbread cookies and<br />

cider. Then it was onto the main event.<br />

Grownup parties aren’t the most<br />

exciting thing for kids - even the ones with<br />

cookies and cider. But we all remember the<br />

exhilaration that comes from seeing gifts<br />

under the tree, so the party began with a<br />

special treat for each of our little guests.<br />

The mantel was filled with stockings,<br />

which in turn were filled with gifts for<br />

little hands. While favors are usually given<br />

out at the end of a party, we love giving kids<br />

a gift that can keep them happy throughout<br />

the event. For the adults we had a<br />

“Happy Holidays” bar with sparkling wine<br />

and light bites. More gifts were stacked<br />

just for them on our gifting table - a new<br />

holiday tradition we adopted to free up<br />

space around the tree.<br />

On the tree, we showcased ornaments<br />

collected over two decades of life together.<br />

Among the selection of newly purchased<br />

snowy owls, houndstooth foxes and<br />

geometric ornaments were the sentimental<br />

pieces that mean the most to us.<br />

Every year we decorate the tree with a<br />

custom <strong>AphroChic</strong> silhouette ornament<br />

that we received years ago when we were<br />

just starting out, a Rwandan basket favor<br />

from our wedding, and a Christmas angel<br />

that brings back fond memories of holidays<br />

past.<br />

While the kids ran and played, we sat<br />

and enjoyed long conversations with our<br />

friends and family. And while we aren’t<br />

little anymore, or in Philly, and there isn’t<br />

an animatronic Christmas spirit in sight,<br />

we still get excited for the holidays. The<br />

work of preparing for guests, the fun of<br />

having them over and the excitement of<br />

little ones - these are the moments that<br />

make this season truly special. AC<br />

Our gift to you: listen to the<br />

<strong>AphroChic</strong> for the Holidays<br />

playlist on Spotify.<br />

70 aphrochic issue two 71


Entertaining<br />

74 aphrochic


Entertaining<br />

76 aphrochic issue two 77


Entertaining


Entertaining<br />

Effortless Holiday Entertaining Tips<br />

FESTIVAL OF COLOR<br />

Decorating for the holidays is just like designing for the home. Start with a color<br />

palette that complements your existing decor. Pick three shades for your holiday<br />

decor. For a modern touch be sure to include a strong neutral like black or gray.<br />

Once you have your color palette decided, you can go wild with ornaments and<br />

baubles, stockings, wrapping paper and other accessories that fit within your<br />

color story. The end result will be a visually striking winter wonderland.<br />

PERSONAL ORNAMENTATION<br />

Ornaments that have a personal connection to you and your family are important<br />

heirlooms to display during the holidays. Showcase any heirloom pieces on your<br />

tree, at your tabletop, and wherever you bring holiday decor into your home. And<br />

if you’re in need of personalized ornaments, make collecting them a new part of<br />

your tradition. Adding a new family ornament annually can be a fun way to grow<br />

your collection!<br />

SOULFUL TUNES<br />

Donny Hathaway’s This Christmas, Boyz II Men crooning Let It Snow, The<br />

Temptations version of Rudolph The Red-<strong>No</strong>sed Reindeer, no party is complete<br />

without a mixtape of favorite soulful holiday tunes. A few days before your event,<br />

be sure to make a playlist of family favorites, and in your invitation you can even<br />

ask guests for a few suggestions. Be sure to have enough music for a few hours<br />

of shuffle play. At the end of the night, share your playlist as a party favor that<br />

guests can enjoy throughout the season.<br />

FOR THE BABIES<br />

For your littlest guests, have presents at the ready upon their arrival. Stockings<br />

by the chimney can be filled with special treats for children. Child-friendly gifts<br />

can also be placed beneath the tree. Remember, they’ve waited all year long for<br />

Santa, so don’t make them wait one minute longer. Allow them to rip right in and<br />

open something to play with as the evening’s festivities go along. It will make for<br />

some very happy little ones.<br />

BAR STYLE<br />

Craft a bar that welcomes your guests upon arrival. Outfit a bar cart, console<br />

table, or any extra surface with shimmering glassware, cordials and tonics for<br />

the evening. Also have the area well-stocked with plates, flatware, napkins and<br />

other items that guests can grab so that they can easily enjoy all of the goodies<br />

served throughout your holiday celebration.<br />

80 aphrochic issue two 81


Travel<br />

Telling Our<br />

Story<br />

Inside The National Museum of African American<br />

History and Culture in Washington D.C.<br />

The Smithsonian’s newest museum, The<br />

National Museum of African American<br />

History and Culture (NMAAHC), is a<br />

breathtaking display of the African<br />

American experience.<br />

Photos by Erika Layne<br />

Words by <strong>AphroChic</strong>: Jeanine Hays & Bryan Mason<br />

82 aphrochic


Travel<br />

Designed by the late Philip Freelon in partnership<br />

with British architect, David Adjaye,<br />

whose other projects include the luxurious Alara<br />

Lagos in Nigeria and the soon-to-be completed<br />

Barack Obama Presidential Center in Chicago, the<br />

museum opened on September 24, 2016. Since its<br />

first day, the NMAAHC has received such a thunderous<br />

response that there can be a three-month<br />

wait for entry, but we promise it is worth the wait.<br />

As one would imagine, the museum is a<br />

place heavy with symbolism. Even it’s position,<br />

seeming to stand directly alongside the Washington<br />

Monument, provides an image rife with<br />

meaning. Its iconic, three-tiered outer facade, affectionately<br />

called the Corona, was inspired by<br />

the crown (or corona) typically found at the top of<br />

Yoruban caryatids - architectural pillars, traditionally<br />

shaped like women. This corona consists<br />

of 3,600 bronze-colored, cast-aluminum panels.<br />

Each panel is designed to resemble the ornate<br />

ironwork done by enslaved craftsmen in 19th<br />

century New Orleans. Adjaye designed the exterior<br />

to evoke Yoruban art and Greco-Roman building<br />

techniques while honoring the legacy of enslaved<br />

Africans.<br />

Inside, the space is as much a shrine as it is a<br />

museum; equally suited for quiet reflection and<br />

full-on revivals and just as likely to inspire either<br />

one. The lived experience of hundreds of years,<br />

the tragedy of oppression, the triumph of survival,<br />

the joy that persisted - and still persists through<br />

it all - all unfold in a rolling narrative. The story<br />

begins in the lowest levels of the building with<br />

the trans-Atlantic slave trade and the building of<br />

the Atlantic world in the 16th century. As visitors<br />

climb, time progresses. Slavery gives way to emancipation,<br />

segregation gives way to progress, gospel,<br />

R&B and hip-hop all have their say, heroes of all<br />

stripes are remembered and celebrated - from the<br />

orators to the sports heroes and even a president.<br />

In the process, our story is told through words and<br />

images, statues and artifacts, not as the history of a<br />

subculture but as the fabric of a nation.<br />

Though it’s not listed as an exhibit per se,<br />

the NMAAHC’s Sweet Home Cafe is a true experi-<br />

84 aphrochic


Travel<br />

ence offering an academic study of African<br />

American food culture. The menu is<br />

divided to cover, “The Agricultural South,”<br />

“The Western Range,” “The <strong>No</strong>rth States,”<br />

and “The Creole Coast.” Within these categories<br />

the cafe offers an amazing range<br />

of dishes and tastes, from Gulf Shrimp &<br />

Stone Ground Grits to High Mesa Peach<br />

& Blackberry Cobbler, with trout, fried<br />

chicken and more in between. The food in<br />

this museum isn’t a distraction from the<br />

story being told, but part of it as each dish<br />

touches on a unique history of Black life in<br />

each region.<br />

Once you’ve experienced the cafe,<br />

the upper floors of the museum promise<br />

an even deeper exploration of the Black<br />

American experience through a variety of<br />

different lenses. The third level examines<br />

the journey of African Americans in sports<br />

and the military - both long upheld as<br />

rudiments of American identity. Another<br />

exhibit on this floor, “The Power of Place,”<br />

depicts the diversity of Black experiences<br />

in the United States. From Chicago<br />

during the Great Migration to rediscovering<br />

the African American presence in<br />

the Old West the exhibit looks at specific<br />

periods and places that were definitional<br />

for African Americans in different parts of<br />

the country.<br />

There is something undeniably<br />

special about the Smithsonian, especially<br />

those museums situated on the National<br />

Mall. Institutions like the National<br />

Museum of American History and the<br />

National Museum of the American Indian<br />

hold pieces of our national identity as well<br />

as various artifacts and artworks. The<br />

National Museum of African American<br />

History and Culture is not the first<br />

museum dedicated to the story of Black<br />

people in this country. But this museum<br />

is a presentment of our history and our<br />

continued contributions to American and<br />

global culture on a level worthy of a Smithsonian<br />

museum and of the people it celebrates.<br />

AC<br />

88 aphrochic


Travel


Travel<br />

Inside, the space is as much a shrine<br />

as it is a museum; equally suited for<br />

quiet reflection and full-on revivals.<br />

92 aphrochic


Reference<br />

The Roots<br />

of Diaspora<br />

In the first installment of this series, we explored questions pertaining to the nature<br />

of the African Diaspora. The concept as we currently understand it emerges from the<br />

much longer history of Pan-Africanism - a massive body of individuals, organizations,<br />

movements, thinkers, creatives and artists that worked on all levels across many nations<br />

to improve the lives and lots of Black people around the world.<br />

It was the hope, tenacity, creativity,<br />

genius and ultimately the success of the<br />

many Pan-Africanist movements that paved<br />

the way for what we now know as the African<br />

Diaspora, changing the world several times<br />

along the way. In this article, we will begin<br />

to explore the history of Pan-Africanism<br />

as a social, political and cultural force from<br />

the first coining of the phrase through the<br />

beginning of the Harlem Renaissance.<br />

The Birth of Pan-Africanism<br />

It probably shouldn’t come as a surprise<br />

that communities born from dispersal across<br />

oceans quickly developed an international<br />

interest. Even before the turn of the 19th<br />

century, the victories of Toussaint L’Ouverture<br />

had become the personal triumph of<br />

nearly every member of the yet-to-benamed<br />

diaspora. At the same time, in Britain,<br />

a community of former slaves turned intellectuals,<br />

including Olaudah Equiano and<br />

Ottobah Cugoano, “developed a body of ideas<br />

and an intellectual tradition which provided<br />

the basis for Pan-Africanism in [the 20th]<br />

century,” according to German historian<br />

Imanuel Geiss. These foundations would<br />

come to fruition less than four decades after<br />

the beginning of emancipation in the United<br />

States when Pan-Africanism would take its<br />

first formal steps at a conference held over<br />

three days in London, in the summer of 1900.<br />

The Pan-African Conference held by<br />

Henry Sylvester-Williams in 1900 and the<br />

later “congresses” that lasted until 1974 under<br />

W.E.B. DuBois and others set the stage during<br />

a period of intense intellectual, cultural, and<br />

political commerce between dispersed communities<br />

on several continents. By the time<br />

he arrived in England in 1896, experience<br />

with the varying conditions of blackness<br />

in both his native Trinidad and the United<br />

States had provided Williams, a lawyer and<br />

lecturer, with ample reason to believe that<br />

the political fortunes of Black communities<br />

across national borders were interconnected.<br />

In 1897, Williams founded the African<br />

Association which became the Pan-African<br />

Association following the first conference.<br />

Though the organization would prove<br />

to be short-lived beyond the close of the conference,<br />

the meeting itself was not without<br />

result. As historian Saheed Adejumobi states,<br />

“For the first time, opponents of colonialism<br />

and racism gathered for an international<br />

meeting…The conference…attracted<br />

global attention, placing the word ‘Pan-African’<br />

in the lexicon of international affairs and<br />

making it part of the standard terminology of<br />

black intellectuals.”<br />

It was also at the close of this pivotal<br />

event that W.E.B. DuBois would deliver<br />

his famous, “Address to the Nations of<br />

the World,” which marked the first public<br />

utterance of his most noted phrase: “The<br />

problem of the 20th century is the problem<br />

of the color line.” Though far from being the<br />

only medium or framework for interaction<br />

between Black intellectuals, the Pan-African<br />

congresses provide a useful timeline<br />

along which to assess the emergence and<br />

evolution of what would become the African<br />

Diaspora concept. Other complimenting and<br />

often competing ideals were forwarded by<br />

the Back-to-Africa movements of Marcus<br />

Schomburg Center for Research<br />

in Black Culture, Manuscripts,<br />

Archives and Rare Books<br />

Division, The New York Public<br />

Library. “W.E. Burghardt Du<br />

Bois” The New York Public Library<br />

Digital Collections. 1925.<br />

Garvey’s Universal Negro Improvement Association<br />

(UNIA), as well as a host of Black Nationalist<br />

movements.<br />

From the beginning, the international<br />

nature and outlook of these conferences was<br />

clear. Geiss notes that, “Afro-Americans and<br />

Afro-West Indians were most prominent in<br />

it, but the [continental] African element was<br />

by no means negligible. The African Association,<br />

the Pan-African Association, and the<br />

Pan-African Conference were noticed and<br />

welcomed in the press of West Africa.” Nearly<br />

20 years passed between the first and second<br />

conferences, a span of time no doubt lengthened<br />

by the outbreak of the First World War<br />

in 1914. Nevertheless, Black intellectuals, led<br />

by DuBois, found occasion in 1919 for a Paris-based<br />

conference to run parallel to the<br />

peace conference being held in Versailles by<br />

the previously warring powers.<br />

With funds drawn from organizations<br />

ranging from the NAACP to the Elks<br />

and Masons, the second Pan-African Conference<br />

(also called the first Pan-African<br />

Congress) brought together some sixty intellectuals<br />

from around the world. Resolutions<br />

coming out of this event included a host of<br />

demands levied against the colonial powers.<br />

Yet Adejumobi relates that, “While congress<br />

attendees insisted that [Africans] should be<br />

allowed…to participate in their own government,<br />

they did not demand African self-determination.<br />

[Yet] despite the moderate<br />

nature of the demands, the European and<br />

American powers represented at the Versailles<br />

Peace Conference remained noncommittal.”<br />

The Mechanisms of Pan-Africanism<br />

During the interval separating the first<br />

and second Pan-African conferences, events<br />

continued to unfold that would impact both<br />

the direction and scope of internationalist<br />

activity. <strong>No</strong>table among these was the<br />

London publication of the African Times<br />

and Orient Review by Duse Mohamed Ali.<br />

Described by the Chicago Defender in 1922 as<br />

a “dramatist, traveler, and financier,” among<br />

other trades, Ali was deeply interested in<br />

the financial impact of racial discrimination<br />

around the world.<br />

Words by Bryan Mason<br />

98 aphrochic issue two 99


Reference<br />

Schomburg Center for<br />

Research in Black Culture,<br />

Manuscripts, Archives and Rare<br />

Books Division, The New York<br />

Public Library. “The Brown<br />

Madonna” The New York Public<br />

Library Digital Collections. 1925.<br />

Schomburg Center for Research<br />

in Black Culture, Manuscripts,<br />

Archives and Rare Books<br />

Division, The New York Public<br />

Library. “Alain Locke” The New<br />

York Public Library Digital<br />

Collections. 1925.<br />

One of a number of truly fascinating<br />

characters from this period, Ali began as the<br />

child of an Egyptian father and a Sudanese<br />

mother. Losing contact with his impoverished<br />

family and thus his knowledge of<br />

Arabic, Ali adopted the name Duse in<br />

addition to his given Mohamed Ali. His life’s<br />

resume included periods of journalism,<br />

acting, editing, plagiarized books and failed<br />

plays along with continuing business speculation<br />

in the trading and banking industries.<br />

An ardent Pan-Africanist in addition to<br />

supporting Islam as the spiritual alternative<br />

to Christianity for Black people around the<br />

world, Ali was influential in the founding of<br />

both the Moorish Science Temple of America,<br />

and the Nation of Islam. The African Times<br />

and Orient Review ran intermittently and<br />

under various titles between 1912 and 1928.<br />

In every incarnation, according to historian,<br />

Robert Hill, the paper was intended to be,<br />

“a Pan-Oriental, Pan-African journal at<br />

the seat of the British Empire which would<br />

lay the aims, desires and intentions of the<br />

Black, Brown, and Yellow Races - within and<br />

without the Empire - at the throne of Caesar.”<br />

Despite the care taken to express loyalty<br />

to the monarchy in whose seat the paper<br />

operated, the enterprise was regarded with<br />

suspicion by British authorities for its open<br />

support of “Pan-Ethiopianist” ideals. Nevertheless,<br />

the paper enjoyed wide distribution,<br />

finding itself in locales as varied as India, New<br />

Zealand and Australia, as well as Oklahoma,<br />

New York, and a host of other <strong>No</strong>rth American<br />

cities. It also drew the attention of several<br />

notable contributors and correspondents.<br />

Among them were Booker T. Washington<br />

and J.E. Casely Hayford. Also included was<br />

renowned journalist and advocate of Black<br />

self-defense, Bruce Grit. Yet perhaps the<br />

greatest impact would be made by the young<br />

Marcus Garvey, who worked for a period in<br />

1913 as a messenger and handyman at the<br />

magazine’s offices in London.<br />

By the time of the convening of the 1919<br />

conference, Garvey had, after meeting with<br />

initial disappointments in his native Jamaica,<br />

established his own Pan-African movement<br />

in the United States. The UNIA would become<br />

one of the largest organizations of its time,<br />

establishing several hundred branches with<br />

thousands of members. The impact and<br />

influence of the UNIA stretched beyond the<br />

United States and the Caribbean to make<br />

itself felt in Canada and throughout Africa as<br />

well.<br />

The massive international appeal of<br />

“Garveyism” illustrated not only the need,<br />

but also the potential of combining various<br />

perspectives on blackness that emerged<br />

from the disparate corners of the diaspora,<br />

as well as the divergent social and political<br />

demands of the varying populations. The rise<br />

of the UNIA represented just such a juxtaposition<br />

as Robert Hill points out, because,<br />

“at the simplest level, Marcus Garvey and<br />

the UNIA symbolize the historic encounter<br />

between two highly developed socioeconomic<br />

and political traditions: the social consciousness<br />

and drive for self-governance of<br />

the Caribbean peasantry and the racial consciousness<br />

and search for justice of the Afro-American<br />

community.” The combination<br />

would strike a nerve at a time that<br />

would prove pivotal for the formation and<br />

direction of Black political leadership in the<br />

United States. On the international level,<br />

the combined effect of Garvey’s unrelenting<br />

insistence on Black equality and African<br />

nationalism with the “new metaphysic of<br />

success” caused the movement to ascend, for<br />

a time, to the level of a religion.<br />

The New Negro<br />

Four years after the third Pan-African<br />

Congress was convened by DuBois in 1923 in<br />

Lisbon, he held the fourth in New York City in<br />

1927. By that time, New York had established<br />

itself as the unofficial center of the Black<br />

avant-garde. The 1920’s opened the door on<br />

a period of cultural rebirth, innovation, and<br />

most of all, reinvention. Intellectuals of every<br />

stripe and school seemed to flock to the city.<br />

Nationalists quarreled with integrationists<br />

while Garveyists and Black Muslims – ostensible<br />

cousins through the influence of Duse<br />

Mohamed Ali – preached self-determination<br />

and self-defense. All the while a new<br />

generation of authors, poets, playwrights,<br />

actors and artists produced a body of work<br />

that would alter, and in many cases, set the<br />

standard for years to come.<br />

The cultural epitome of this moment<br />

was embodied in the New Negro Movement,<br />

itself epitomized in an eponymous book.<br />

The New Negro was edited by Alain Locke and<br />

published first in 1925. The opening words of<br />

Locke’s introduction encapsulate the gestalt<br />

and driving worldview of both the book and<br />

the time that it was meant to symbolize. From<br />

the very first words of his introduction, Locke<br />

describes a moment of great and surprising<br />

transition. Proclaiming that the coming<br />

of the New Negro is the result of a series<br />

of phenomena that occurred, “beyond the<br />

watch and guard of statistics,” Locke warns<br />

that this new notion of blackness will be as<br />

unpredictable in its presence as it had been<br />

in its arrival.<br />

In effect, the New Negro functions for<br />

Locke as the direct antithesis of the “Old”<br />

Negro paradigm set up by myriad works of<br />

fact and fiction ranging from Harriet Beecher<br />

Stowe’s Uncle Tom’s Cabin to W.E.B. Du Bois’,<br />

Souls of Black Folk. This marks its emergence<br />

as an act of defiance not only against the<br />

widely held views attending considerations<br />

of, “The Negro Problem” in the mainstream,<br />

but even against those who had, since emancipation,<br />

taken up the overseer’s role of<br />

shepherding the race. The result, as Locke<br />

relates, is that:<br />

The Sociologist, the Philanthropist,<br />

the Race-leader are not unaware of<br />

the New Negro, but they are at a loss<br />

to account for him. He simply cannot<br />

100 aphrochic issue two 101


Reference<br />

be swathed in their formulæ. For the<br />

younger generation is vibrant with<br />

a new psychology; the new spirit is<br />

awake in the masses, and under the<br />

very eyes of the professional observers<br />

is transforming what has been a<br />

perennial problem into the progressive<br />

phases of contemporary Negro life.<br />

In New York, Locke’s statements were<br />

given form by intellectuals with scores of<br />

complementing and competing ideas on<br />

how to meet the issues of their time. Yet,<br />

they were all united in the spirit (if not the<br />

rhetoric) of the New Negro movement by the<br />

single driving goal that animated them all: to<br />

become - and to be seen as - something other<br />

than what they had been.<br />

Despite his mention of the sociologist,<br />

philanthropist, and race-leader as political<br />

as well as social elements in the life of “The<br />

Negro,” Locke steadfastly avoids overt<br />

political speech in both the introduction and<br />

the content of The New Negro as a whole – a<br />

decision which gained him the ire of some<br />

contributors. Nevertheless, both the contributors<br />

to the anthology and the movement that<br />

it represented were staunchly political as fit<br />

the tenor of the time. Meanwhile, the political<br />

positions of its contributors were made clear<br />

in the work that they produced on both sides<br />

of the editor’s desk for the numerous Black<br />

publications that flourished, often briefly,<br />

during this time of furious activity. These<br />

journals would prove profoundly important<br />

to the dissemination and development of<br />

Black cultural content and political thought,<br />

simultaneously stimulating and chronicling<br />

the movement even as it occurred. In fact, as<br />

Demetrius Eudell remarks:<br />

The whole of the New Negro Renaissance<br />

could actually be summed up in<br />

the titles of the journals produced in<br />

Harlem: The Voice, Crisis, Opportunity,<br />

The Messenger, The Crusader, The<br />

Negro World. In these titles, the objectives<br />

of the movement are clearly<br />

defined—and dialectically so, for at the<br />

same time that Blacks found themselves<br />

in crisis, the situation also presented<br />

itself as an opportunity for the establishment<br />

of a new message—one…<br />

relevant to the entire Negro world.<br />

In addition to those listed above, several<br />

noted authors of the Harlem movement,<br />

including contributors to the New Negro<br />

anthology such as Langston Hughes, Countee<br />

Cullen, and Zora Neale Hurston, attempted to<br />

put forth their own views on Black life and art<br />

in the aptly named journal, Fire!, the content<br />

of which was intentionally designed to fly in<br />

the face of what its authors felt to be the propagandist<br />

stance of older figures like Locke.<br />

Harlem in the 1920s was as alive with<br />

journalistic and scholarly writing as it was<br />

with fiction and poetry. However, the “Negro<br />

World” did more than just listen to the<br />

messages emanating from the United States.<br />

It formed them, providing both content and<br />

context, as likeminded thinkers from around<br />

the Diaspora provided Harlem with messages<br />

of their own.<br />

The birth of Pan-Africanism was not<br />

the beginning of international awareness<br />

in Black people. But the convening of liberation-minded<br />

Black thinkers from all over<br />

the globe was the spark and recognition of a<br />

new moment both for those colonized on the<br />

African continent and those internally-colonized<br />

in the, “New World”. This intense period<br />

of international collaboration came at a time<br />

when Black populations all over the world<br />

were facing similar kinds of oppression under<br />

various guises and names. It was their mutual<br />

recognition of their shared plight as well as<br />

their common history that encouraged them<br />

to look across borders and oceans for help<br />

they could not find anywhere else. AC<br />

Schomburg Center for Research in Black<br />

Culture, Manuscripts, Archives and Rare<br />

Books Division, The New York Public Library.<br />

“The New Negro : an interpretation” The New<br />

York Public Library Digital Collections. 1925.<br />

102 aphrochic issue two 103


Sounds<br />

Rapsody’s Eve:<br />

Respect Given, Respect Earned<br />

With Eve, Rapsody celebrates a long tradition of powerful Black women while adding<br />

her name to the list.<br />

Maya Angelou once said, “I respect<br />

myself and insist upon it from everybody.<br />

And because I do it, I then respect everybody,<br />

too.” On her third album, Eve, Rapsody pays<br />

respect to Black women while demanding her<br />

own.<br />

At its core, Eve is a love letter to Black<br />

women, each song titled after one of<br />

Rapsody’s heroes. Oprah is a triumphant<br />

anthem of success named after the billionaire<br />

entrepreneur. Tyra is a celebration of<br />

Black beauty, inspired by its namesake supermodel.<br />

“You looking at a winner, remember,<br />

I ain’t never had dough / But I walk like I got<br />

it, ‘cause my blood mixed with black gold /<br />

Misty Copeland ten toes dancin’ around the<br />

odds,” she raps. Ibtihaj shares its name with<br />

the American fencer, Ibtihaj Muhammad,<br />

who became the first Muslim-American to<br />

compete in the Olympics while wearing a<br />

hijab.<br />

Rapsody poured a lot of thought into the<br />

concept album, bringing her creativity to centerstage<br />

with care and precision. “I can’t be<br />

no bird in a cage,” goes the hook on the introspective<br />

Maya, inspired by Angelou’s classic,<br />

I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings. She recruits<br />

D’Angelo and GZA for Ibtihaj, a remake of<br />

the Wu MC’s masterpiece, Liquid Swords.<br />

Check the wordplay on Whoopi, which nods<br />

back to the Sister Act star, Whoopi Goldberg<br />

(“You gon’ make a sister act up”). Album coda,<br />

Afeni, named after 2Pac’s mother, samples an<br />

acapella line from Keep Ya Head Up, uniting<br />

the former Black Panther with her son over a<br />

poignant 9th Wonder beat.<br />

The titles are not gimmicky. They serve<br />

as a canvas for thoughtful and witty portraits<br />

of Black beauty, success and strength. Step<br />

aside from the song titles and you’ll find<br />

Rapsody winking at a longer list of esteemed<br />

women. She name-checks Lauryn Hill,<br />

Jemele Hill, Anna Mae, Angela Bassett and<br />

Shirley Murdock. And that’s just on the<br />

opening track, Nina.<br />

Throughout Eve, Rapsody threads<br />

the lineage of Black women, drawing from<br />

womanhood as a source of strength, pride<br />

and intellect. Although these themes have<br />

always been present in Rapsody’s music, Eve<br />

brings it all together, making it her most compelling<br />

album yet.<br />

Rapsody stands in her truth, while<br />

showcasing her skill. “If you confuse my<br />

boxin’, with me being boxed in, it’s my native<br />

language, ain’t gotta say it in moccasins /<br />

Whatever I be rockin’ in, I speak the truth,”<br />

she proclaims on Maya. Her skill has never<br />

been in doubt, but she sounds much more<br />

relaxed and inspired on Eve. Her pen game<br />

is sharp on Cleo (Y’all banked on the wrong<br />

ones, wasted your energy / Lost more<br />

interest, got me laughin’ at my enemies”),<br />

playful on Aaliyah (“I’ma treat myself, let me<br />

get a supersize/As my cup runneth over, it’s<br />

fulfilling to me”) and self-assured on Whoopi<br />

(“Chicks don’t faze me, I’m just like ‘Yonce / I<br />

ain’t feelin’ you like I ain’t feelin’ new Kanye”).<br />

The production on Eve is a treat. Steered<br />

by longtime collaborator 9th Wonder, Eve<br />

serves up a slice of nostalgia garnished with<br />

modern flourishes. It deftly samples the likes<br />

of Herbie Hancock (Whoopi), Phil Collins<br />

(Cleo) and Aaliyah’s mesmerizing vocals<br />

(Aaliyah). Much like the guest turns, the music<br />

complements Rapsody without competing for<br />

attention.<br />

Eve is a statement album that cements<br />

Rapsody’s place as one of rap’s elites. By surrounding<br />

herself with an outstanding group<br />

of women, Rapsody inherently positions<br />

herself within the broad dynasty of Black<br />

womanhood. Respect given, respect taken.<br />

Maya Angelou would be proud. AC<br />

Words by Henry Adaso<br />

104 aphrochic issue two 105


PINPOINT<br />

Artists & Artisans | Hot Topic | Who Are You


ARTISTS & ARTISANS<br />

Fabiola Jean-Louis<br />

A rustle of fabric, a pop of color and the unflinching gaze of dark eyes. With these, fine<br />

art photographer Fabiola Jean-Louis weaves a narrative that blends past and future, fact<br />

and fantasy, afro-futurism and Black girl magic. In the process, blending photography<br />

and sculpture, she warps time and space, giving us a glimpse of what might have been<br />

while casting light on a history that many have forgotten or ignored.<br />

The artist’s most celebrated series,<br />

Re-Writing History, is a mesmerizing<br />

and painstaking interrogation of history,<br />

symbolism and the value placed on Black<br />

bodies. The collection ranges from pieces<br />

resembling Victorian-era paintings to<br />

ghostly images reminiscent of those popular<br />

during Britain’s Spiritualist movement.<br />

Fabiola’s painterly photographs are deeply<br />

layered, using camera, model and wardrobe<br />

to mimic oil paintings. Even more intriguing,<br />

Fabiola sculpts her models’ elaborate<br />

dresses completely out of papier-mâché.<br />

The effect is flawless and fraught with<br />

symbolism. Both evoke the artist’s deep<br />

interest in Diaspora religious systems<br />

including Vodun, Voodoo and Candomblé.<br />

Fabiola’s world celebrates the beauty<br />

and strength of Black women, while<br />

indicting past and present efforts to deny,<br />

control or extinguish them.<br />

The images are as subversive as they<br />

are beautiful - demanding closer inspection,<br />

greeting it with poignant critique. In<br />

“Madame Beauvoir’s Painting” a woman<br />

gazes at a painting of an enslaved man<br />

whose deep back scars are designed into<br />

the back of her gown. The sculpted dress<br />

in “Madame Leroy” features a central<br />

ornament depicting a Black man in chains<br />

hanging from a floral tree. “The Conquistador”<br />

is arresting, speaking volumes about<br />

colonization and the very beginnings of the<br />

trans-Atlantic slave trade.<br />

In some works, the title of the piece is<br />

as striking as the image itself. “They’ll Say<br />

We Enjoyed It,” features a model serenely<br />

looking away from a painting of two white<br />

men assaulting a Black woman. Her appearance<br />

echoes that of Marie Antoinette<br />

in Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun’s 1778 portrait.<br />

The piece’s title echoes Zora Neal Hurston’s<br />

famous quote, “If you are silent about your<br />

pain, they’ll kill you and say you enjoyed it.”<br />

Re-Writing History, is a captivating<br />

commentary on some of society’s uglier<br />

realities through the mechanism of revisionist<br />

history and the medium of beautiful<br />

art. Yet it’s intervention is not placing Black<br />

people in Victorian England - we were<br />

already there. Perhaps the most celebrated<br />

and heartbreaking story of the “Black Victorians”<br />

belongs to Sarah Forbes Bonetta.<br />

Orphaned during her capture at six, she<br />

was later “rescued” by British naval captain,<br />

Frederick E Forbes. Forbes appended both<br />

his name and that of his ship, “Bonetta,” to<br />

the girl before presenting her as a gift to<br />

Queen Victoria at the age of eight.<br />

Though elegant images of her and<br />

other Black people of this era exist from both<br />

the United States and the United Kingdom,<br />

the lives of the people depicted were often<br />

anything but. Re-Writing History, points<br />

out this glaring disparity, challenging us to<br />

identify the narratives, symbols and tropes<br />

used to carry out and justify these tragedies<br />

while shining a light on their continued<br />

presence today. AC<br />

Photos by Patrick Cline<br />

Words by Bryan Mason<br />

108 aphrochic issue two 109


110 aphrochic issue two 111


112 aphrochic issue two 113


issue two 115


HOT TOPIC<br />

Social Media and the Politics of Representation<br />

Recently, <strong>AphroChic</strong> was invited to give the keynote address at an AfroTech event held<br />

by Pinterest in San Francisco. The topic of our talk was, “Social Media and the Politics of<br />

Representation.” And while there isn’t room here for us to relate the entire conversation,<br />

we’d like to take the opportunity to share some of what we feel were its key insights.<br />

Social media and social justice are<br />

no strangers to each other. Over the past<br />

several years, African Americans have<br />

used various platforms to call attention to<br />

important matters from issues of police<br />

brutality to the subtler forms of racism that<br />

are found in who is seen and who is not -<br />

the question of representation. But representation<br />

is more than who appears on<br />

a magazine and social media is more than<br />

angry tweets and cancel culture. The connection<br />

between them is far deeper and<br />

older than the country itself.<br />

Frederick Douglass was one of the first<br />

to recognize the impact of representation<br />

on the national discourse and the potential<br />

for technology to allow African Americans<br />

to participate in it. Seeing the power of<br />

imagery to shape what people thought and<br />

felt, he realized the harm done to Black<br />

people through our inability to represent<br />

ourselves. He felt photography offered an<br />

objectivity that Black people would never<br />

receive from white artists. He also recognized<br />

the opportunity to eloquently make,<br />

through his own image, the same argument<br />

for the dignity and humanity of Black people<br />

that he made in his speeches - a realization<br />

that led to him becoming the most photographed<br />

American of the 19th century. The<br />

connection that Douglass drew between<br />

technology and the democratization of<br />

popular culture is one that continues to<br />

resonate today, with social media offering us<br />

an even greater opportunity to control the<br />

conversation on who we are.<br />

In Douglass’ time, and for two<br />

centuries before, the most important form<br />

of Black representation was posters for slave<br />

auctions. By the 1830s, Thomas Dartmouth<br />

Rice’s popular character, “Jim Crow,” had<br />

popularized the blackface minstrel show.<br />

This uniquely cruel form of cultural appropriation<br />

was the beginning of American<br />

pop culture, in that it was the first thing<br />

that nearly everyone in the country agreed<br />

was funny. As such, it did much to codify<br />

whiteness and blackness in the American<br />

consciousness through its reinforcement of<br />

common stereotypes such as the lazy, lewd<br />

and happy slave. Yet as is commonly seen,<br />

it was a representation imposed on Black<br />

people, who had no ability to counter the<br />

characterization.<br />

Tropes of blackness created during<br />

slavery have continued to evolve, allowing<br />

white imaginations to shape the concept<br />

of what Black people are with harmful, real<br />

world consequences. The characters of the<br />

depraved slave girl, Topsy, and the mindlessly<br />

violent Sambo inadvertently created<br />

by Harriet Beecher Stowe’s successful anti-slavery<br />

polemic, Uncle Tom’s Cabin,<br />

drew on existing pickaninny stereotypes,<br />

becoming popular embodiments of them.<br />

Such stereotypical images were a consistent<br />

part of American life, used in advertisements<br />

for everything from household electronics<br />

to breath mints and soaps that joked<br />

about their ability to clean the black from a<br />

person’s skin. While these advertisements<br />

lasted until at least the mid 1960s, blackface<br />

continues to be both an ongoing conversation<br />

and an intermittent occurrence,<br />

appearing on popular television shows,<br />

late night comedians and occasional politicians<br />

even today. The impact of these images<br />

has been to shape the American concept of<br />

what a Black person is, and can be directly<br />

connected to the later political characterizations<br />

of the “welfare queen,” the “suspicious<br />

person” and the “thug.”<br />

These archetypes are so woven into the<br />

fabric of our society that they become what<br />

Dr. Franklin D Gilliam, Jr. termed “common<br />

knowledge,” in his 1999 study of news<br />

reports on Black welfare queens. Common<br />

knowledge in this case is the adherence<br />

to the trope as truth to such a degree that<br />

actual facts are dismissed or ignored. For<br />

example, the fact that Ronald Reagan based<br />

the idea of the welfare queen on a white con<br />

woman that he recast as Black does little to<br />

Words by Bryan Mason and Jeanine Hays<br />

Photos by Oladimeji Odunsi and Mikaala Shackelford<br />

116 aphrochic


HOT TOPIC<br />

change instinctive reactions to Black women<br />

as being of lesser education, morality or<br />

worth. <strong>No</strong>t only is the image common<br />

knowledge, but for many the attitude is no<br />

longer connected to the specific trope.<br />

A major consequence of common<br />

knowledge is misrecognition, which<br />

happens when a person is so convinced of<br />

the stereotypes surrounding someone that<br />

they cannot imagine them to be otherwise,<br />

even in the face of direct evidence. Harvard<br />

professor Henry Louis Gates, Jr. was misrecognized<br />

as a suspicious person while<br />

going into his own home in 2009. A call<br />

from a neighbor to the police resulted in his<br />

arrest. Trayvon Martin was misrecognized<br />

first as a suspicious person by his murderer,<br />

George Zimmerman, and later in the press<br />

as a thug, as pundits debated whether his<br />

hoodie was a contributing factor in his<br />

death.<br />

At the core of the question of representation<br />

is the inability of people of color to<br />

control the construction of their image and<br />

therefore their presence in the popular consciousness.<br />

De facto gatekeepers, including<br />

print and broadcast news, magazine<br />

editors, television and movie producers,<br />

museum and gallery curators and various<br />

types of marketers create further difficulty<br />

by choosing to either exclude African<br />

Americans entirely or to confine our<br />

presence to prevailing or comfortable narratives.<br />

While the issue of representation is<br />

often a battle over the public consciousness<br />

at large, equally at stake is our internal view<br />

of ourselves both communally and individually,<br />

as the pervasiveness of popular narratives<br />

makes it all too easy to internalize<br />

their conclusions regardless of their degree<br />

of truth or inaccuracy. The inability, specifically<br />

at the direction of another, to be fully<br />

or accurately represented, the inability to<br />

freely represent oneself - even to oneself,<br />

and the underlying suggestion that the full<br />

range of human experiences, possibilities<br />

and achievements are the expected<br />

province of a specific group of people while<br />

others achieve them only incidentally is as<br />

damaging to the individual person of color<br />

internally as it is dangerous to us externally.<br />

What Frederick Douglass saw in photography<br />

in the 1800s is precisely what<br />

social media presents to us today - a massive<br />

shift in technology offering the opportunity<br />

to take an active hand in our own representation,<br />

expanding the narrative<br />

around the Black experience and representing<br />

ourselves to ourselves for our own<br />

sake. By decentralizing the means by which<br />

thoughts, ideas, works and conversations<br />

enter the public sphere, social media has,<br />

to some degree, democratized the process<br />

of creating popular culture. And while this<br />

is new and open territory, fraught with<br />

drawbacks, it has also played a vital role<br />

in the creation of public voices for those<br />

whose representation was previously kept<br />

primarily in the hands of people outside of<br />

their communities.<br />

Image-based social media like<br />

Pinterest, Instagram and Snapchat play an<br />

especially important role in this process.<br />

After all, if a picture is worth a thousand<br />

words, then every Instagram feed is an epic<br />

poem and every Pinterest board a library.<br />

Boards like our Black Girls Rock, Tall Dark<br />

and Handsome, and Modern Soulful Stylish<br />

Homes are refutations of the Topsy, welfare<br />

queen, suspicious person and thug tropes.<br />

On Black Girls Rock we contradict the traditional<br />

tropes surrounding Black women<br />

by featuring women of different skin tones,<br />

body types and fashion approaches working<br />

to dispel the myth that there is only one<br />

“Black woman.” Similarly, our Tall Dark and<br />

Handsome board expands the narrative surrounding<br />

Black men by showing us as fashionable<br />

and sophisticated. The inclusion of<br />

dandies and LGBTQ+ luminaries like Billy<br />

Porter pushes our consideration of Black<br />

men beyond contemporary narratives of<br />

toxic masculinity. Though the images we<br />

choose do not conform to common topes,<br />

importantly, these boards are not created in<br />

reaction to them, but rather as expressions<br />

of our own view of Black people.<br />

By offering a way past the gatekeepers,<br />

social media is an unprecedented opportunity<br />

to intervene in the narratives that<br />

have, for so long, shaped and limited the<br />

life chances of African Americans. It’s not<br />

a magic bullet and it isn’t automatic. Like<br />

so many other tools it’s only as useful as we<br />

work to make it.<br />

Every image that appears on Instagram<br />

is not a blow for or against social justice,<br />

and it shouldn’t have to be. But being aware<br />

of the way that images have been used and<br />

continue to be used to disenfranchise Black<br />

communities will make us aware of the<br />

chances to tell a different story. As Frederick<br />

Douglass reminds us, “[Humanity] is the<br />

only picture-making animal in the world.<br />

[We] alone of all the inhabitants of the earth<br />

has the capacity and passion for pictures . . .<br />

Poets, prophets, and reformers are all picture-makers,<br />

and this ability is the secret<br />

of their power and achievements: they see<br />

what ought to be by the reflection of what is,<br />

and endeavor to remove the contradiction.”<br />

AC<br />

118 aphrochic


WHO ARE YOU<br />

Name: Sammy Picone<br />

Hometown: Brooklyn,<br />

New York<br />

Occupation: Pole<br />

artist, brand<br />

ambassador, and<br />

acupuncturist in<br />

training<br />

Dream: To open a<br />

pole dance aerobics<br />

studio and be an<br />

acupuncturist for<br />

dancers and athletes.<br />

“Black culture is connection.”<br />

120 aphrochic

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