Nomad issue #24

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE 

ISSUE 24| NOV/DEC | FREE COPY 

HOLIDAY 

SEASON 

FEATURING SOME EXCITING PLACES TO VISIT THIS HOLIDAY 

FRESH EYES 

ON NAIVASHA 

ADVENTURE IN 

JINJA, UGANDA 

BIRTH OF THE 

WALKING SAFARI

Breathtaking 

Views 

and Signature 

Kenyan 

hospitality

Enjoy 

Premium 

Hospitality 

Emara Ole - Sereni part of Ole Sereni is a 148 rooms property offering unique views of Nairobi National Park and the city 

centre. The property has world class amenities like Karibu Cafe, Acacia Restaurant, Maskaan Bar and Lounge and Sky Bar. 

We also provide world class Conference and Banqueting Facilities, Business Centre, Gift Shop, Gym & Spa.

EDITOR’S NOTE 

I 

WHAT 

DO YOU MEAN MY FLIGHT IS CANCELLED? 

had spent two leisurely nights at one of those secluded 

and untouched islands in the Lamu archipelago, and 

by the time my boyfriend and I had checked out on 

the final day, we were running late to the airport. As 

usual. With barely 20 minutes left to boarding time, 

we rocked up to Manda Airport panting, dripping in 

sweat and certain that we must have lost some vital piece of 

luggage along the way. It was at this point that we found out, 

and only from other stranded passengers milling about, that 

our Silverstone flight to Nairobi had been cancelled without as 

much as an email alert. 

for Malindi at 6:00 am, and it will be super cheap if we can 

get you two to join us.” 

I couldn’t help but admire this solid pitch. In fact, years 

earlier, my broke solo traveling self would have happily 

jumped at the chance (one day I will write about how 

accepting such offers landed me in a bed-bug ridden mattress 

in a foreign country). Having done that road trip several years 

ago, you couldn’t pay me enough to do that today. I have 

become way too spoilt by the simple pleasures of comfortable 

travel. 

That had been the last flight of the day and even the airport 

was to close soon. Our next course of action was to browse 

around on AirBnB to find possible accommodation, which for 

two people terrible at making such decisions, must have been 

a comical conversation for any eavesdropper. We couldn’t 

even decide whether to go to Shella or the Old Town. 

As though having spotted potential prey, a group of 

European backpackers approached us. You could tell that they 

had been roughing it on the road for a while from the holes 

in their t-shirts, worn shoes and heavy backpacks slung on the 

front like some heavy eight-month pregnancy. 

“You know, there are no flights out of Lamu tomorrow 

either,” started their spokesperson after a few pleasantries 

were exchanged. “We’ve found a matatu that can leave Lamu 

“There’s this house that you can join us in...it’s in Manda 

and has a verandah which you can sleep in for crazy cheap,” 

continued the spokesperson. 

My boyfriend and I exchanged knowing glances. 

Ultimately, we ended up booking the entire ‘penthouse’ space 

of a lovely seafront hotel at Ksh 3,500 per person. This was 

our idea of slamming it, because you could never tell if you 

should drink the fresh juices, and the towels had that worn 

been-around-the-block look about them as though they had 

been carried into a war zone by some trooper before making 

its way to Lamu via Toi Market. 

Interesting how even our travel needs evolve over time. As 

you gear up for the upcoming season, we’d be keen to hear 

what you’re looking for from your end-of-year holiday... 

ON THE COVER 

EMARA- SERENI 

PHOTOGRAPHED 

BY BRIAN SIAMBI 

Wendy Watta 

@WattaOnTheGo 

NOMAD ISSUE 24 · NOV/DEC 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI, JOHN NJOROGE SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA 

CONTRIBUTORS JOANNE NDIRANGU, FAITH KANJA, MAURICE SCHUTGENS, SOPHIE IBBOTSON, KATY FENTRESS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, ALASTAIR BOYD, TIME + TIDE, FAHAD FUAD 

MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI 

SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO 

NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica 

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 3

4 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CONTENTS 

25 

FRESH EYES ON NAIVASHA 

From flower farms and paragliding 

to scenic drives and incredible 

restaurants, Naivasha resident Joanne 

Ndirangu gives recommendations of 

things to do away from the typical 

Naivasha experience. 

20 

In this issue 

18 

12. TOP SHOTS 

This month’s featured photographer took 

around five weeks and two trips to capture 

a shot of a black leopard at Loisaba 

conservancy. 

15. NEWS 

Salty’s Kitesurf Village opens in Kilifi, 

Mama Ngina Waterfront Park is 

redeveloped and Kenya Airways partners 

up with Safarilink. 

17. WHATS ON 

From the Magical Kenya Ladies Golf Open 

to the East African Safari Classic Rally, 

find a roundup of must-attend events this 

season. 

48. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS 

Kenyan-Japanese co-owner of the Endo² 

brand, Yvonne Endo, gives us a peek 

inside her travel bag. 

FEATURES 

30. PLACES TO STAY IN NAIVASHA 

Find a variety of incredible properties to 

consider on your next visit to Naivasha. 

38. THE BIRTH OF THE WALKING SAFARI 

Norman Carr, regarded as the pioneer 

of walking safaris, found paradise in 

South Luangwa and thanks to his lifelong 

conservation efforts, this Eden is still here 

for us to enjoy. 

40. ROADTRIP 

Faith Kanja sets off on an action-packed 

seven day road trip with the Kenya 

Tourism Board, covering places such as 

Karura Forest, Limuru, Aberdares National 

Park and Diani. 

32 

REGULARS 

18. GLOBETROTTERS 

We sat down with Tanzania’s most 

traveled social media influencer and 

photographer, Fahad Fuad, and asked him 

all your travel questions on Tanzania. 

20. JINJA: CALLING ALL THRILL SEEKERS 

Said to be the very source of the Nile, 

Jinja in Uganda has incredible views and 

world-class rapids, and promises a world 

of adventure for the keen thrill seeker. 

42. DISPATCH: A HIDDEN GEM 

IN MALAWI 

Located in the Upper Shire Valley, 

Liwonde National Park is undoubtedly 

Malawi’s most spectacular wildlife viewing 

destination. Maurice Schutgens returns to 

the park after 12 years to experience it. 


CONTRIBUTORS 

WHICH PLACE IN THE WORLD FEELS MOST LIKE HOME RIGHT NOW? 

SOPHIE IBBOTSON 

The birth of the walking safari 

My first visit to Uzbekistan blew me away. 

I’d driven across Eastern Europe, Russia 

and Kazakhstan, and found myself in 

Samarkand: the heart of the Silk Road. 

I stood in the Registan in Samarkand 

completely in awe of the dazzlingly tiled 

madrassas around me. The city’s Timurid 

monuments are a UNESCO World Heritage 

Site, and the artistry of the medieval artisans 

is remarkable, even now. 

FAITH KANJA 

Roadtrip 

So far, no holiday has matched my one 

week trip to the northern frontier six 

years ago. I visited Marsabit, Kargi and 

Loiyangalani. At the time, the roads were not 

good but this added to the fun. Interacting 

with the El Molo community, camping 

under the stars and sometimes riding in the 

backseat of a dusty Land Cruiser on off road 

terrain are moments I will always cherish. 

JOANNE NDIRANGU 

Fresh eyes on Naivasha 

I always remember the first time I visited 

Nanyuki. I was staying with a friend and 

she came up with an exciting itinerary for 

me. Of all the places we went to, I will never 

forget Trout Tree Restaurant. We had lunch 

in a lovely tree house overlooking the ponds 

where they farm their own trout. I try to visit 

Nanyuki every year since, if I can. 

GIVEAWAY! 

It’s really easy to enter our 

competition to win some Nomad 

goodies worth Ksh 5,000. All you 

need to do is tell us your favourite 

trip of 2019 inspired by our 

magazine, in as many or few words 

as you wish. 

Send us an email with the subject 

line “My Favourite Trip” to editor@ 

nomadmagazine.co by midnight 

EAT December 10, 2019, to stand a 

chance to win! 



TOP SHOTS 

Alastair Boyd 

@alastair_boyd 

Through old friends at Loisaba, I was 

told where there had been frequent 

sightings of the black leopard, and I 

decided to focus on one area. I found 

what I thought would be the kind of trail 

it would be using. It took around five 

weeks and two trips until I got the shot. 

I used a Nikon D800 with a Nikkor 

14-24mm f/2.8G lens. My settings 

were ISO 320 at 24mm, f5.6 and 

1/60. I also had a Cognisys Scout Trail 

Monitoring System with 2 X speed light 

SB900 and a Peli Protector Case. 

TIP: Always have patience and a sense 

of humour! 


TOP SHOTS 


FAHAD FUAD 

Instagram: @fahad_fuad 

I shot this at Serengeti National Park. 

Balloons in Tanzania typically take off 

in the morning between 6:00am to 

9:00am. I used a Nikon D810 with 

a 70 to 20mm lens. My settings were 

1/400, F6.0, ISO 320. 

TIP: Wake up early for that sunrise 

golden hour. Always try different 

perspectives and take more than one 

shot to get the perfect picture. 


NEWS 

KENYA AIRWAYS AND 

SAFARILINK PARTNERSHIP 

Kenya Airways has signed an agreement 

with Safarilink to provide passengers with 

connectivity to different tourist destinations 

in Kenya and Tanzania. These include 

eleven airstrips in Maasai Mara and direct 

flights to Amboseli, Diani, Kapese, Kitale, 

Lewa, Loisaba, Migori, Samburu, Lamu, 

Zanzibar, Ukunda, Vipingo, Kilimanjaro, 

Tsavo West, Nanyuki and Lodwar. The 

codeshare agreement aims to bring more 

global travellers to Kenya Airways as well 

as enabling customers from international 

destinations to book their full safari 

experience directly via KQ holidays. 

The packages will conveniently connect 

travellers from JKIA to Wilson Airport 

and eventually to their respective safari 

destinations. 

MAMA NGINA WATERFRONT PARK REDEVELOPED 

The Mama Ngina Waterfront Park is a 26-acre waterfront space 

recently redeveloped into a modern public recreational area with 

several added amenities. It has become the first public landscaped 

waterfront and starts from the Likoni Ferry Crossing in the south 

to the Mombasa Golf Club in the north. These two points act as 

both entry and exit points into the park and are marked by huge 

monumental gates. As part of the renovations, the waterfront now 

features a natural amphitheatre, a cultural centre, 2.1km long 

promenade and a space for food vendors. The amphitheatre has a 

seating capacity of 3,000 people. The Kilindini Cultural Center has 

exhibition halls and screening rooms where visitors can watch films 

and listen to audio to learn more about the history of Mombasa. 

Being open 24-hours a day, the park is well lit with strategically 

placed security lighting, a police post and public toilets. 

SALTY’S KITESURF VILLAGE OPENS IN KILIFI 

Salty’s Kitesurf Village is a sustainably and ethically-run 

establishment on Bofa beach in Kilifi. With beautiful tropical 

waters, calm lagoons and great waves out on the reef, this Kitesurf 

center, beach bar and restaurant is perfect for kite surfers and 

caters to numerous styles of the sport while offering affordable 

accommodation options for all, starting at Ksh 3,500. With 

barely any marketing, a soft-opening where about 30 guests were 

expected drew almost 150 residents and tourists, and the laid-back 

beachfront bar, one of the handful in Kilifi, is already being hailed 

as an it-spot in the town. Permaculture is done at the premises 

and they grow most of their food which chef Jack then whips into 

healthy and delicious platters which are also making the menu here 

the talk of the town.www.saltyskitesurf.com 



T H E 

MSAMBWENI 

EXPERIENCE 

U S E C O D E : K T B / E A / U G 1 9 

USD 340 USD 160 FULL BOARD 

VALID UNTIL 20TH DECEMBER 2019 

PER PERSON 

PER NIGHT ON 

www.mbh.co.ke info@mbh.co.ke +254 729 403 697

EVENTS 

MAGICAL KENYA LADIES OPEN 

The Magical Kenya Ladies Golf Open will take place from 5th to 

8th December 2019 on Vipingo Ridge’s Baobab Course - the only 

(UK) PGA accredited golf course on the continent. Not only will this 

event mark the very first time professional lady golfers will have 

played competitively in the region but it will also be the final event 

of the 2019 season. The 72-hole stroke play competition will prove 

a significant milestone in the history of the sport in Kenya and work 

to motivate the next generation of female golfers throughout the 

country. VIP ticket holders will receive world-class benefits including 

a first class rooftop experience, priority view over the golf course, 

a welcome present, premium food and drinks and more. tickets 

available at ticketsasa.com 

Image courtesy www.grandnairobirace.co.ke 

2019 EAST AFRICAN SAFARI CLASSIC RALLY 

The 9th edition of the East African Safari Classic Rally 

will take place from November 27th to December 6th. 

The rally is widely acknowledged as the world’s toughest 

historic motorsport event. It offers competitors an incredible 

opportunity to enjoy the epic landscapes of East Africa as 

they journey between exceptionally challenging stages, 

some of which can be over 150km long. The nine-day 

competition will start from Mombasa before its spreads 

its wings across Kenya and Tanzania regions. This year’s 

rally is set to cover more than 4,500km, showcasing the 

picturesque beauty of the East African landscape with 

vehicles racing through world-famous game parks with 

overnight stops at the region’s finest lodges and hotels. 

www.eastafricansafarirally.com 

2020 TROPIC AIR 10TO4 MOUNTAIN BIKE CHALLENGE 

The 2020 Tropic Air 10to4 Mountain Bike Challenge will take 

place on 14th-16th February 2020, starting at an altitude of 

10,000ft on the slopes of Mt Kenya and ending on the savannahs 

of Borana Conservancy at 4,000ft. This annual event provides a 

unique opportunity for cyclists of all ages and abilities to take on 

the challenge of the 2nd highest mountain in Africa. Having started 

in 2002 as a very small mountain biking event with just a handful 

of riders, it has grown to over 350 competitors from across the 

globe, raising over US$80,000. With courses for all abilities, this 

annual event provides a unique opportunity for people to enjoy Mt 

Kenya and its surrounding beautiful wildlife conservancies, whilst 

raising critical funds for Mount Kenya Trust’s community projects and 

mountain conservation. Register on www.10to4.org 



BONGO 

TRAVELER 

We sat down with Tanzania’s most traveled social media 

influencer and photographer, Fahad Fuad, and asked him all 

your travel questions on Tanzania. By Wendy Watta 

Instagram: @fahad_fuad 


GLOBETROTTERS 

What makes Tanzania an ideal holiday spot? 

The country is so diverse in its people, 

landscape and biodiversity. One day you 

can be in the mountains then be at the 

beach the next day. We have Zanzibar 

and Pemba islands, then coastal cities like 

Bagamoyo, Dar es Salaam, Kilwa and 

Mtwara. Tanzania also has an array of 

national parks and epic waterfalls. There is 

just so much to see and do! 

Where do Tanzanians typically go for the 

holidays at the end of the year? 

People like to go upcountry. If you go to 

Moshi right now, there is no traffic jam. In 

Tanzania, you can be stuck in traffic for 

hours and it gets really congested. Moshi 

is the land of Mt Kilimanjaro and has a 

lot of waterfalls such as Marangu, Kilasia 

and Materuni formed by water from the 

top of the mountain. While home to see 

their relatives, people from that region, for 

instance, could do so much more. You will 

also find Chemka Hot Springs there, a place 

that is also quite popular with people coming 

from Nairobi. It’s very scenic, there are tiny 

little fish that can give you a ‘fish pedicure’, 

and it’s a great place for swinging or diving. 

Contrary to the name, the water is actually 

more tepid that hot. 

So what’s there to do in Moshi for someone 

who’s new to Tanzania? 

Check out the culture. You can start with the 

Mangiameli remains in Old Moshi- he was 

one of the strongest chiefs in Kilimanjaro 

and an avid freedom fighter who met an 

untimely death, and a monument still stands 

to remember him. Try machalari which is a 

mixture of bananas and meat. The people 

here have a variety of ways of making 

bananas using recipes and techniques 

passed down through generations and 

that would be hard to replicate elsewhere. 

You can actually get a guide to go to the 

waterfalls or Chemka Hot Springs, try 

machalari and if you love beer, sample 

the local brew which is also made from 

bananas. You can do a day tour up 

Kilimanjaro from the Marangu gate to 

Mandara hut at 2700m above sea level- it’s 

a hike of about 8km which would take 5 

hours. There is a crater lake called Chala 

which borders kenya, and here, you can do 

a family picnic. 

What would you recommend to do in 

Zanzibar for families? 

It has such a variety of food, and there is 

always a festival in full swing. The food 

market at Forodhani which now has a 

lot of kid games and competitions during 

festival season is a key spot. Check out 

Jozani National park for a trek which years 

ago had wildlife but now has red colobus 

monkeys which are only found here...kids 

would enjoy that. The Butterfly Center is a 

must-see. Swim with turtles at the aquarium 

in Nungwi, or just feed them. Feed the huge 

tortoises at Prison Island, which also has 

a lot of history, and is a great place for 

snorkelling. Go on a spice farm tour. Boot 

the popular Safari Blue whereby you leave 

in the morning, go to a sandbank, snorkel, 

have lunch and relax along the beach. 

You can try hundreds of beach activities. 

Hotels like Hotel Verde have become 

popular because they have dedicated 

acres of land to fun activities such as jet 

skiing, waterbiking, navigating an inflatable 

obstacle course, kayaking, thrill seeker 

tubing and much more. 

Why do you recommend Lushoto for 

adventure seekers? 

It’s on the highlands and is therefore very 

mountainous and scenic with an array 

of waterfalls. Hike to Magamba Nature 

Reserve- it’s a strenuous one so come 

prepared. 

Go to Maweni Farms for serenity...it’s a huge 

farm in the middle of a small forest with an 

. old German house which has now been 

transformed into a hotel. Hike up to Soni 

Waterfalls at whose base you can swim, 

dive or fish. Magoroto is very popular now. 

It’s great for friends and couples. For kids, it’s 

quite a hike and there aren't a lot of activities 

up there. There is no network so you really 

connect with nature. There are decks where 

you can camp next to the lake, and when 

you unzip your tent in the morning, the view 

is spectacular. You can also go horse riding 

here. If you’re in Mombasa, you can cross 

through the Tanga border to experience it. 

Break down some of your go-to national 

parks 

Tanzania has so many parks spread across 

the whole country. Udzungwa Mountain 

National Park in Morogoro is ideal for hikers 

and has incredible sunsets. You can hike 

up, camp and descend the next day. Sanje 

Waterfall is very big and really beautiful. 

From Dar, go to Mikumi or Saadani National 

Park in Bagamoyo, or even Selous Game 

Reserve. From Arusha, Moshi or Kilimanjaro 

you can go to Tarangire, Manyara, 

Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. From 

the lake zone in Mwanza you can also go 

to Serengeti. We have a new a new one 

called Chato which is even easier to access 

from the lakeside. In Mbeya/Iringa, go 

Ruaha National Park for wildlife. Mkomazi 

Park is great for people from Tanga and 

Kilimajaro. Any Tanzanian can view some 

wildlife during the holiday season without 

necessarily having to cross the country. There 

is also Arusha National Park. 

What’s one hidden gem you wish more 

people would explore? 

In southern Tanzania there is a place called 

Mbeya, the land of hidden treasures, as I 

like to call it. It has a crater lake shaped like 

Africa called Ngozi, and getting there is 

quite a hike. Matema Beach which is in Lake 

Nyasa borders Malawi and here you can 

get a sunrise and sunset at the same time... 

it’s very beautiful. Kaporogo waterfalls, some 

of the biggest in the country, are located 

here. Kitulo National Park, referred to as the 

heavens garden, is a floral park so imagine 

just how breathtaking that is. 

What’s your favourite thing to do in Arusha? 

There is a meat market called Kwa Mrombo 

where people specifically go for different 

styles of choma. Arusha has the park, 

Mt Meru and Lake Duluti. It’s like a small 

Nairobi, which is why Nairobians like to go 

there to party. 

Fahad runs a travel agency which you can 

find on instagram as @unziptanzania 


JINJA: 

CALLING ALL 

THRILL SEEKERS 

Said to be the very source of the Nile (the 

longest river in Africa and arguably the 

world), Jinja has incredible views and 

world-class rapids, and promises a world of 

adventure for the keen thrill seeker. I find it 

appealing because food, outdoor activities, 

transport and entertainment are relatively 

cheap here, writes Wendy Watta. 

Photography: Wendy Watta 


KENYAN TRAVELER 

Quad biking with All Terrain Adventures 

My guide Henry helps me gear up in tan 

overalls, goggles, a scarf and helmet. Riding 

a quad bike is very easy to master and 

hard to forget, and after a short practise 

session, we set off for Kyabirwa village. In 

the dry season, Jinja is very dusty; the kind 

of red soil that desperately clings to the skin 

long after you have taken a shower. In the 

light afternoon breeze, it curls and curls, 

patiently, waiting to attack. Henry goes first 

and I am hot on his trail, along what was 

once Bujagali Falls. When the Ugandan 

government dammed the river in 2011 for 

a hydroelectric project, six rapids were 

buried under a giant reservoir, and the loss 

is palpable. Now the Nile silently snakes 

along the periphery of the village, between 

a sprawling mass of trees and shrubs, its 

beauty domineering. 

We charge almost full-throttle towards 

simple mud or brick homes, some 

unintentionally quirky given the pop of 

bright paint on the windows and the bold 

graffiti etched into the mud walls. Bare 

doorways are covered only by thin brightly 

coloured curtains billowing gently in the 

breeze. At first, it is hard to imagine that a 

place as charming as this would be without 

inhabitants, but as we roll on, I spot them 

lounging in the shade outside their houses 

seeking respite from the mid-afternoon heat. 

The kids run to the roads in numbers to wave 

and say hello. We also come across goats, 

those stubborn animals that when we meet 

along the road, it is us that have to move out 

of the way. 

As I switch gears to charge uphill through 

a road lined with surprisingly green farms, 

it is thrilling to feel that power underneath 

my hands. We get to a secluded river bank 

where some villagers are bathing, washing 

clothes, swimming, fetching water in yellow 

jerrycans or tending to their fishing nets, all 

within about five feet of each other. This is 

not only an exciting activity, it is also a great 

way to gain insight into the daily life of the 

locals. Book with: www.atadventures.com 

Whitewater rafting with Adrift Uganda 

As far as names go, it doesn’t get more 

intimidating than a class five rapid called 

‘The Washing Machine’, but Jinja has up 

to grade six rapids for seasoned pros. 

As beginners, after we are taken through 

some safety instructions followed by a brief 

practical session out in the water, some of 

my apprehension gives way to excitement 

which continues to build as the seven people 

in our bright blue raft start to paddle in a 

near-perfect synchrony. Shortly after, we 

come to our very first raging class three 

rapid, or the scene of the crime, as I now like 

to call it. 

It is called ‘Bubugo’, and when I find 

out that this translates to ‘condolences’, 

my apprehension returns. There is no time 

to second guess things, however, as the 

majority of the group quickly vote that 

we navigate it from its very centre which 

increases our chances of flipping over by 

about 90%. With feigned gusto, we paddle 

right for Bubugo. Before I am hurled out of 

the raft, it feels like I’m tumbling over the 

edge of the earth, an untetherdness that’s 

as unsettling as it is thrilling. The white 

water rages at me but my life jacket pushes 

me up to the surface, and as I splutter for 

air, I realise that I am trapped under the 

raft. Remembering the practical session, I 

manoeuvre my way from underneath and 

swim to the safety boat which had been 

following our raft all along. 

It is only later while we are tucking 

into delicious sandwiches on calm water, 

bumping fists and hooting into the air as 

the adrenaline kicks in, that I realise I would 

probably do it all over again. Book with: 

www.adrift.ug 

We charge almost 

full-throttle towards 

simple mud or 

brick homes, some 

unintentionally quirky 

given the pop of bright 

paint on the windows 

and the bold graffiti 

etched into the mud 

walls 


Where to stay 

Lemala Wildwaters Lodge- Nestled in a 

rainforest and surrounded by rapids, right 

in the middle of the Nile. High end. 

The Haven - Serene, with stunning 

views. Cottages are mid-range, 

but consider the lazy camping 

accommodation for even cheaper rates. 

Nile Porch- Has semi-permanent tents 

raised on cliffs overlooking the Nile. 

Accommodation available for different 

budgets. 

Nile Explorers River Lodge- Has 

affordable camps, dorms and rooms. 

Always lively. Great for meeting other 

adventurers from around the world. 

Where to Eat and Drink 

Black Lantern- Striking view, serene, 

popular for their pork ribs, excellent 

mojitos, has a pool. 

Moti Mahal’s- Try the Tahil, a delicious 

spicy curry with unlimited naan, daal and 

rice. Good spot for vegetarians as well. 

Jinja Sailing Club- Set along Lake 

Victoria and can be a good base for boat 

cruises. Good Indian and continental 

food. Try the “kuku in a basket”. 

Kayaking with Kayak the Nile 

It is day three and I have kayaking on my 

mind. From solo to tandem, and whitewater 

kayaking which would see one go down a 

rapid like Bubugo which I faced on day one, 

the limit just depends on how adventurous 

you are. I settle for a one-hour session gently 

paddling out on the calm, flat water while 

checking out the birdlife. My guide and 

I both get on solo sit-on-top kayaks after 

which he shows me a few basics like how 

to hold the paddle and move in different 

directions, then we set off. 

The scenery surrounding the Nile River, 

especially taken in from the water, gets me 

every time. It is spectacular, and it is not 

long before we start spotting an array of 

freshwater birds like the cormorant, grey 

crowned crane, various herons and egrets, 

and my favourite: kingfishers. My guide 

points them all out, and the conversation 

naturally turns to conservation, as he tells 

me about some of the efforts being made to 

involve the local community in beekeeping 

as a business, as opposed to cutting and 

selling riverine trees which are vital for the 

ecosystem here. He even tells me about two 

friends who followed the Nile from its source 

in Jinja to Egypt on a four-month kayak and 

rafting trip. Book with 

www.kayakthenile.com 

Cycling with Bikeventures Uganda 

There are many routes and options to 

consider, but cycling to Mabira Forest 

just outside Jinja, then heading to the 

surrounding tea estate, sounds most 

appealing. Indigenous trees stand on long 

lean trunks, branches converging at the 

top to provide a much needed umbrella, 

without which the climb would be much 

more arduous. Rolling along the rainforest, 

we spot barefoot kids balancing heavy 

bundles of firewood on their heads, and I 

learn that while the surrounding community is 

not allowed to cut trees, they can pick fallen 

branches. 

While the first kilometre is laid back, 

thereafter it is anything but. The route has 

steep climbs and fast descents, all queued 

up in quick succession, and it feels like 

a challenge-and-reward cycle that any 

enthusiast would revel in. 7km later and the 

thick foliage gives way to a well-manicured 

tea estate which stretches into the gentle 

hillside as far as the eye can see. It is also 

dotted with tea pickers who are dexterously 

plucking the delicate leaves by hand (or 

using handmade devices) then throwing them 

over their shoulders into large sisal baskets 

on their backs. 

Bikeventures is a social enterprise for 

CooP-Uganda. All profits are allocated to 

three social projects that improve access to 

income generation (Bike4Work), education 

(Bike4School) and healthcare (Bike4Care) by 

providing bicycles to social entrepreneurs, 

students, teachers and health care workers. 

As we cycle past their homes, the smell of 

brewing tea wafts towards me, disappearing 

over my shoulder almost as quickly as it hit. 

I am reminded just how hungry I am, and 

when we get back to the main road after 

covering 16km in 2.5 hours, it is time for a 

classic Ugandan snack. To some, a rolex 

might be a beloved luxury watch, but here, 

it is a spanish-style omelette placed inside 

a chapati which is then rolled to create the 

most delicious thing I tasted in Uganda. 

SUP Hammock with Nile SUP 

I decide to wind down with something 

relaxing. A friend and I get on SUPs and 

after pottering about the river for all of 30 

minutes, decide to hire a SUP Hammock 

instead. It is a thing of wonder; three SUPs 

rigged together with two hammocks tied 

to either end. We get comfortable, and a 

guide on a kayak gently pulls us along. Time 

spools out. I barely even lift my head to look 

at the otters swimming past. The sun starts 

to set. Our gin and tonics are instinctively 

topped up. If ever an activity deserved to be 

called blissful, it would be this. 

www.nilesup.com 


Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people 

in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy. 

Proud to be #1 of 22 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County 

For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com 


COUNTRY 

CHRISTMAS 

And... Three things are guaranteed 

at Enashipai: 

Family • Food • Fun 

Talk to us today on +254 51 2130000 

or email sales@enashipai.com 


FEATURE 

FRESH EYES 

ON NAIVASHA 

From flower farms and paragliding to scenic drives and 

incredible restaurants, Naivasha resident Joanne Ndirangu 

gives recommendations of things to do away from the typical 

Naivasha experience. 

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI 


FEATURE 

Ihave lived in Naivasha for over six years now and I’m still 

always discovering hidden gems. For a town one and a half 

hours away from Nairobi by road, Naivasha is never short 

of tourists, but Kenyans are notorious for frequenting the 

same old spots when there is just so much more to this place. 

It is the ideal town to drive to for a weekend getaway that 

doesn’t break the bank and still does the trick. 

Whether you are a solo traveler, avid bird-lover, group 

looking to party or a parent with kids, there is so much more 

to see here than you likely know. With only two days to spare, I took 

the Nomad team around to share some of my favourite jaunts with 

them. 

Flower farm visits 

Kenya is one of the two major flower exporters in Africa, and 

Naivasha’s altitude and proximity to a large body of water makes it 

the perfect town for horticulture. Of all the flower farms in Naivasha, 

my favorite one is DeRuiters in Oserian. They are breeders and do 

a lot of experiments with various breeds of roses, and the results are 

stunning. They have a designated showroom where visitors can view 

the flowers on display and get to learn more about their processes. 

When we got there, we were given white coats to wear and had to 

sanitise our hands before our guide, Abraham, could take us around 

the hot showroom. 

There are rows upon rows of brightly coloured roses with the most 

creative names, and should one catch your fancy, you’re welcome 

to buy. In this section, the roses on display have been grafted for a 

mixed-colour effect. Some are heavily scented and therefore have a 

shorter vase life in comparison to the flowers that have the scent bred 

out of them and can then last upwards of two weeks in a vase. Here 

is where potential investors choose a rose they would like to grow for 

commercial purposes and then purchase it. 

We then proceeded to a bigger greenhouse where the purchased 

roses are now grown in high production to meet the clients’ 

demands. They are finally moved to the cold room where the cut 

flowers are stored for up to eight hours in a 4 degrees celsius room 

to stop the growing process. They are then cut and packaged ready 

for shipment to European markets. Kenya’s biggest markets are 

Amsterdam and the UK, and for that reason, most of these farms 

observe these countries’ calendars to mark their high holidays. 

Note: DeRuiters charges Ksh 1,000 per car as entry fees. 

Scenic drives 

I have driven around Lake Naivasha on two separate occasions and 

yet I’m still always keen to seek out this experience with every return. 

The fresh air and serenity of the drive makes it great for relaxing, the 

perfect way to wind down after a stressful work week. The properties 

lined along this route are beautifully maintained and some have 

been left untouched over the years so you feel like you are driving 

into the past. Another scenic drive to consider is through Olkaria 

Power Station. You will pay a park fee of Ksh 400 for citizens. 

During our visit, we drove up for over 20km through the gorges and 

power installations, and the vistas were breathtaking. The road ends 

at the top of a view-point that offers the most incredible panoramic 

views of the Mau hills. 

Sundowners and night drives 

Imagine sitting by a fire in an open field with buffaloes grazing a 

few feet away from you. You are sipping your chardonnay as you 

watch the sun set. Now imagine experiencing this with that special 

someone or a group of friends you made on your solo trip. As the 

darkness sets in, it’s now time to find the night time wonders when all 

the nocturnal animals are just starting to rouse. I played ‘spotter’ on 

my most recent night drive and saw the ever elusive bush baby, long 

tailed fox (...or mongoose. They all look the same in the dark to the 

untrained eye), wild hare and a golden orb spider. I tried looking 

for the aardvark but I wasn’t so lucky. I can’t even begin to describe 

what a treat that was. Somewhere between the sunset and watching 

a baby hippo come out of water to feed, I was at peace with the 

world. If you are not a night person but enjoy early mornings, plan 

for a morning drive before the hyenas are back in their holes and out 

for the day. 

Fun fact: Dik-diks mate for life and are always in pairs. Whenever 

you spot one on your drive, look for the partner close by. If you see a 

lone dik-dik, chances are their partner just died and they will die too, 

of a broken heart 

For philanthropic travelers 

What if I told you that you could have the relaxing weekend you 

deserve and still give back? Elsamere and Mundui House are 

two places that let you do just that. Elsamere is part of the Elsa 

Conservation Trust that was left behind by Joy and George Adamson 

who spent their lives dedicated to the conservation of wild animals. 

For history buffs, you can spend the night in Joy Adamson’s bedroom 


FEATURE 


WHERE TO EAT 

Sawela Lodge’s all glass restaurant. 

You can enjoy your meal indoors with 

sweeping views of their lush, green gardens 

dotted with yellow fever acacia trees. 

Ranch House Bistro where you can have 

raspberry fresh juice with berries grown in their 

own garden. Their helpings are massive and 

the warthogs grazing nearby will pay you no 

mind. Take your time as you watch fishermen 

offload their haul on the shores of Lake Oloiden. 

Afterwards, you can stop by La Pieve and pick 

up some roses and sunflowers that come in daily 

from DeRuiters. 

Matteo’s: For authentic Italian feast, you 

can never go wrong with this restaurant. It is 

situated close enough to an array of familyfriendly 

activities, and their menu is kid friendly 

too. There is a nice spot in the middle of the 

restaurant where you can buy any of the 

ingredients you would like to have added to your 

selected dish. 

After a long drive, you can make one final 

stop at Enashipai’s Coffee Lounge for their boozy 

coffees (don’t drink and drive, though) for an 

afternoon buzz that will make the traffic back to 

the city bearable. A personal recommendation 

would be the Amarula coffee. Thank me later. 

and all the proceeds will go back into the trust 

which seeks to sustain education in their surrounding 

community. If you are only in Naivasha for the day, 

you can do the museum tour and visit the Birds of 

Prey Sanctuary and leave having done your part for 

the community. 

For a more secluded and tranquil stay, I’d highly recommend 

Mundui house. Richard and Hellen, the two managers will make you 

feel decadently spoilt and cared for. They will come out to answer 

any questions you may have on the history of the property and 

to offer their infallible advice on where to look for certain elusive 

animals. 

I had the grandest time at their cottage; there was so much 

to experience. I went bird watching on the ‘secret lake’ with 

Mohammed, their resident guide. The waters were so still and calm, 

a haven for numerous birds. Then breakfast was served on the 

shores of the lake affording breathtaking views of the Mau Hills. In 

addition to the seasonal-fresh-fruit-and-prosecco-breakfast, Purity, the 

chef came to take my order and proceed to prepare a phenomenal 

omelet as I watched. After the hearty meal, we proceeded to their 

Animal Rights Reserve Unit (ARR) where they protect and rehabilitate 

orphaned animals. 

Hellen explained to us that the income they get from staying 

guests goes back to protect and treat animals ensnared by poachers 

and afflicted by fellow prey. Their efforts are very necessary to 

the preservation of wildlife in Naivasha and its environs and they 

make animals feel safe, so much so that they walk around grazing 

comfortably among humans. Imagine waking up to a huge giraffe 

strolling casually outside your door. It is because they know no harm 

will come to them. Being a private unit, the funding needed is more 

urgent and necessary to ensure our future children will find these 

animals alive and well. 


FEATURE 

DO NOT MISS: 

Have bespoke pieces made to your exact 

liking at Elementaita Weavers. Choose the 

colours you want on your rugs, placemats 

and other woven pieces and watch as they 

make them on their huge looms. Collectible 

tchotchkes are also available for sale. 

For adrenaline junkies, paragliding is 

just the fix. Jump from Mt. Margaret near 

Ubuntu Kenya and soar over Mt. Longonot 

and Lake Naivasha. You can carry your 

own equipment or hire from the trainer. This 

activity is also wheelchair friendly. 


PLACES TO 

STAY 

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI, RESPECTIVE PROPERTIES 

WHERE WE STAYED: MUNDUI HOUSE 

Built in 1926, this property has seen 

numerous visitors including Winston Churchill 

and Ernest Hemingway. “We take our 

conservation very seriously,” says our host 

Helen Hartley. “It’s all privately funded by 

a Polish family who set up an organisation 

called ARR (Animal Rights Reserved) who 

are involved in things like wildlife rescue and 

protection with people calling in from as far 

as Mt Elgon”. When you stay at the house, it 

helps to know that your money goes towards 

supporting a good cause. The property has 

four doubles and one family room, and two 

extra doubles can be availed on request. 

www.munduihouse.com 

LUCITA FARM GUEST HOUSE 

The decor is rustic country chic, and if you 

love art, Lucita farm is a haven! There are 

three properties on the farm; two (3 and 

4 bedroom) guesthouses great for families 

and a stable suite perfect for couples. The 

guesthouses are spacious, complete with 

fully equipped kitchens. The stable suite is 

all white with quirky decor and if you look 

out the window, you are likely to spot a 

waterbuck milling about the foliage. There 

are also two horses and dogs on the farm. 

The cottages are available for booking on 

AirBnb. 


FEATURE 

WHERE WE STAYED: AJABU HOUSE 

Ajabu house is located on the Gilgil and Malewa delta of lake Naivasha on Loldia 

Farm which has been in the JD Hopcraft family for over 100 years. Initially, it was built 

by Wildfred Hopcraft in the early 1930’s, and added to as his family grew with his 

wife. There is a master bedroom which is large, spacious and en-suite with an antique 

bath offering stunning views across to Lake Naivasha. The bird room is perfect for 

children with bunk beds and one queen bed; its birds-on-the-wall fixtures are unique 

and create a certain je ne sais quoi. Siriane guest house, nestled among the fig trees, 

was initially constructed by Italian Prisoners of War during the mid1930’s and has two 

spacious rooms, each with en-suite bathrooms, with incredible views. The muse guest 

house was the backbone of the house (offices, stables etc) until 2014 when it was 

converted to accommodation with three bedrooms. www.ajabuhouse.com 


THE MANOR HOUSE & DODO'S TOWER 

This colonial tudor-style house sits on the 

exclusive Hippo Point conservancy along 

with the wooden 120 foot Dodo’s tower. 

The Manor House was derelict before 

being purchased by its current owners 

about 30 years ago, and they have since 

transformed it into the cozy home it is today 

while retaining much of its Elizabethan 

charm. Some of the living spaces have been 

renovated, with stables being turned into 

two-storey one bedroom pads and a granary 

now serving as a main lounge. The decor is 

European and African, mixing contemporary 

art with locally made quirky pieces 

www.hippopointkenya.com 

CHUI LODGE 

It was designed and created by June Zwager; her vision was 

brought to life with help from the local community and her team 

of skilled craftsmen. The Lodge is built from simple bush stone, 

acacia, olive and Leleshwa wood all sustainably sourced from 

within the sanctuary. There are eight spacious ensuite cottages, 

each with its own veranda and striking views. The bedrooms 

have magnificent four poster beds, roaring log fires and unique 

décor, making the rooms completely different from one another. 

A large swimming pool on the property overlooks the waterhole 

and wildlife sanctuary beyond. 

www.oserengoniwildlife.com 

ENASHIPAI RESORT & SPA 

A bit closer to Nairobi is Enashipai, meaning 

place of happiness. This sprawling retreat on 

the shores of Lake Naivasha is a great base 

for exploring the lake, but also for relaxation. 

Various kinds of rooms such as the afro-chic 

fountain executive rooms with their signature 

Maasai necklace headboards are available. 

At the spa, the signature treatment involves a 

mud wrap, a waterfall treatment followed by 

a calabash instrument massage. If you bring 

the kids, there’s a playroom with staff to 

watch them, giving you the opportunity to nip 

away for that massage. www.enashipai.com 


FEATURE 

ELSAMERE LODGE 

The story of the raising of an orphan lion 

cub by Joy and George Adamson in the 

1950s and her subsequent release into the 

African bush is one of the great conservation 

stories of all time. Once a holiday home 

and later to be a retirement home for the 

Adamsons, Elsamere remains a unique 

destination in Naivasha. Delicious meals are 

served here and the traditional style high 

teas remain some of the best in Kenya. At 

Elsamere, history connects with the future 

as conservation is their main objective. The 

lodge has 10 double rooms, all ensuite, with 

private verandahs facing the lake. 

www.elsamere.com 

KIBOKO LUXURY CAMP 

This boutique camp on the shores of Lake Naivasha has only 

eight spacious luxury tents set in green serene surroundings. 

Guests can expect five-course gourmet meals from the restaurant 

as prepared by talented chefs, best enjoyed while taking in 

the rich scenery. Relax and get pampered at the Eseriani Spa 

which offers full body, face and foot massages, aromatherapy, 

body scrubs and wraps, and so much more. Excursions around 

Naivasha can easily be arranged based on your interests from 

the camp’s convenient location. 

www.sunafricahotels.com 

GREAT RIFT VALLEY LODGE 

The Lodge is built on the Eburru, a mountain 

that the Maasai call Ol Donyo Opurru, 

meaning mountain of smoke. It sits at about 

7,000 feet from which elevation it enjoys 

magnificent views to the west and east. The 

vistas stretch from Lake Naivasha to the 

jagged volcanic crater of Mount Longonot 

and, beyond, the sloping shoulders of the 

Aberdare Mountains. There are 21 twin and 

nine double rooms, all with private balconies 

overlooking the spectacular expanse of the 

Rift Valley. The rooms are located in spacious 

two- and three-storey blocks, furnished with 

large four-poster beds, handmade wooden 

furniture and modern en suite bathrooms. 

www.heritage-eastafrica.com 


LAKE NAIVASHA SOPA RESORT 

With their traditional and conscientious 

care for the environment, Sopa carefully 

positioned all the buildings on the property 

so as not to chop down any of the numerous 

trees on site. As a result, they had to come 

up with a radically innovative design for 

the main public area building which now 

snakes its way between the trees with long 

and graceful curves. This is why the two 

swimming pools and areas like the spa, 

tennis court, two conference halls and stables 

are so widely set apart. The lodge has 84 

rooms, two being wheelchair accessible 

rooms. www.sopalodges.com 

NAIVASHA KONGONI LODGE 

Located 27km from the turn-off to Moi South Lake Road is 

Naivasha Kongoni Lodge, crafted from simple bush stone, 

local acacia, Leleshwa and olive wood with a beautiful 

thatched Makuti roof. The lodge whose name is Swahili for 

hartebeest overlooks Lake Oloiden and Lake Naivasha, only 

a few minutes away from Hell’s Gate National Park. It has 

three executive/honeymoon cottages and 26 well-spaced 

and beautifully furnished deluxe rooms. Each executive room 

has an indoor and outdoor Jacuzzi and a luxurious corner 

shower. A swimming pool is available, and sundowners can 

be arranged in their rondavel. www.privatecollection.co.ke 

OLERAI HOUSE 

Nature was left to take charge of this 

former cattle farm in 2001, and today, the 

farmhouse is shrouded in bougainvillea and 

the scent of wildflowers fills the air. Bright, 

individually-decorated rooms are furnished 

with expansive beds and crisp linens, and 

the ensuite bathrooms are stocked with 

organic soaps and lotions to soothe your 

skin. The chefs produce unforgettable meals 

with organically-grown or pasture-raised 

ingredients picked fresh from the garden 

each day. The farmhouse drawing room is 

comfortably arranged around a crackling 

log fire where you can sip chilled wine, relax 

and warm up. 

www.elephantwatchportfolio.com 


36 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE 

SWAHILI 

DREAMSCAPES

POTTED HISTORY 

Katy Fentress sets out 

to find out more about 

Swahili culture and its 

rich history by heading to 

Tanzania and visiting the 

ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani, 

once the epicentre of 

the vibrant East African 

coastal trade. 

PHOTOGRAPHS KATY FENTRESS 

I 

t’s low tide as Hassan, the 

boatman, manoeuvres our taxi 

dhow up onto the shallows. The 

Portuguese fort that I had been 

photographing as we approached 

the island dominates the small 

beach in an otherwise unassuming 

harbour. I wade through the ankle-deep 

water and up some steps to the outskirts of a 

village. A plaque painted with a Tanzanian 

flag indicates there is a foundational school 

some hundred metres to our left. 

We wander over to the fort and stand 

underneath what looks like a giant version 

of an intricately carved Lamu door. The mid 

morning glare stings my eyes as I squint up 

from underneath the brim of my straw hat 

to study the fine floral lattice work which 

frames the looming entrance. Jamila, our 

guide, is explaining that the Gereza Fort was 

erected after the Portuguese seized control 

of the Swahili coastal trade routes and is 

one of the last in a series of great forts and 

palaces built on the island of Kilwa Kisiwani, 

at one point the most powerful city-state in 

the whole of East Africa. 

Located directly opposite the town of 

Kilwa Masoko, 300km to the south of Dar 

es Salaam, Kilwa Kisiwani is one of two 

islands that were the epicentre of a once 

bustling cosmopolitan trading hub. Kilwa 

Kisiwani and its neighbouring Songo Mnara, 

are today quiet places, inhabited by small 

communities, which survive on fishing and 

subsistence farming. During the Middle 

Ages, however, this vibrant Swahili city-state 

came to dominate commerce up and down 

the East African coast, due to a favourable 

geographical positioning at the intersection 

of trade routes of gold and ivory from 

Zimbabwe, beads and textiles from India, 

ceramics from China and Persia and slaves 

captured as far as Lake Malawi. 

Jamila narrates how the fort is the symbol 

of two successive colonisations of the Swahili 

coast, once an interconnecting network of 

urban trading centres which were inhabited 

as early as the first century CE. The first 

colonisers were the Portuguese around 1500 

and then the Omanis, who in the late 1600s 

liberated the sultans and their cities from the 

European invaders, only to then take on the 

mantle of occupying rulers themselves. 

A few hundred metres from the fort we 

see ruins peppered to either side of us. 

Jamila points out a small cemetery, some 

merchant houses and the “Malindi mosque”. 

I later learn that the city state of Malindi was 

one of Kilwa’s great rivals during the 1400s. 

With every step, we feel ourselves going 

back in time. 

“Here you can see the Great Mosque that 

was built with coral blocks by the Shirazi 

sultans one thousand years ago,” Jamila 

tells us. The mosque, with its sixteen domes, 

seems like something out of an Indiana 

Jones movie. Jamila waits patiently as I 

clamber around to try to get a good shot of 

a towering ficus which has long outgrown 

its host, its gnarl of roots threaten to tear the 

walls of the ancient building apart. 

Here you can see the Great 

Mosque that was built with 

coral blocks by the Shirazi 

sultans one thousand 

years ago,” Jamila tells 

us. The mosque, with 

its sixteen domes, seems 

like something out of an 

Indiana Jones movie. 

Inside the mosque, the morning light 

pours sideways through the colonnades, 

the bulbous domes and tear drop arches 

stand sensuously in the saturated light. 

Close by the Omani palace, relatively new 

in the grand scheme of the island, is an 

ode to space and luxurious living. I stand 

in the middle of what would have been the 

palace’s huge garden, bird song fills the air. 

We press on, there’s one more site to visit. 

Built in the early 1300s the Husuni 

Kubwa was once a sprawling palace replete 

with spacious courtyards for merchants to 

ply their wares, a public hearing hall for 

audiences with the sultan and in the private 

quarters, a hexagonal swimming pool that 

looked out onto the sea. I walk around in the 

unforgiving midday heat with just enough 

energy to marvel at the thick coral walls, 

at the remains of large domes and sunken 

rooms where I can imagine angry men 

shaking their fists at each other has they 

discuss the matters of the day. Exhausted, 

after covering almost three kilometres 

walking around ruins, we make our way 

down a long flight of stairs to the mangroves 

and then through to the expecting boat. 

Kilwa Basics 

Situated in one of Tanzania’s less frequented 

areas, Kilwa and Songo Mnara aren’t 

exactly the cheapest holiday destinations, 

unless you are keen to take the Mashallah 

bus or are self-driving. The trip takes about 

five hours depending on how bad traffic 

leaving Dar es Salaam is. 

We stayed at the delightful Kilwa Dreams 

Beach Resort where the owner Gladys and 

her staff made us feel instantly at home and 

treated us to some excellent seafood. The 

bandas were painted red and decorated 

with images of sea life, while on the inside 

they were simple, clean, lit with lights 

powered by solar panels on the roof, with 

nice seating areas, well maintained mosquito 

nets and hot water coming from a solar 

heater outside. For those used to Kenyan 

prices it felt a bit on the expensive side but 

this is probably due to the low levels of 

tourism in the area which means it is costly 

to keep hospitality facilities running all year 

round. 

Our friends in Dar es Salaam also 

recommended checking out the Slow 

Leopard, a recently opened lodge on the 

Jimbiza beach which seems popular with the 

backpacking crowd. 

Visits to Songo Mnara and Kilwa Kisiwani 

should ideally take place over two days. 

Songo Mnara is 12 kilometres from the 

mainland so remember to bring a book as 

the internet reception dies a few kilometres 

out. Kilwa Kisiwani is just a fifteen minute 

boat ride from the harbour at Kilwa Masoko 

and should definitely be the second of the 

two places you visit. The Kilwa Information 

Centre, situated at the main market in Kilwa 

Masoko, is your go to place for arranging 

for a guide and paying the entrance fees at 

the antiquities office down the road. All in 

all we ended up paying 70$ for the Kilwa 

trip and $140 for the Songo Mnara trip (for 

two people) which seemed steep but was 

confirmed by the Lonely Planet as being the 

correct amount. 

For more information on organising a trip 

you can call the Kilwa Information Office on 

+255715463029 or visit their website www. 

kilwatourism.com 

Bandas at Kilwa Dreams cost $90 a night, 

can accomodate up to three people and 

can be reserved through their website www. 

kilwadreams.com or by phoning Gladys, the 

owner, on +255 784 585 330 


THE BIRTH OF THE 

WALKING 

SAFARI 

Norman Carr, regarded as the pioneer of walking 

safaris, found paradise in South Luangwa and thanks 

to his lifelong conservation efforts, this Eden is still 

here for us to enjoy. By Sophie Ibbotson 

Photos:Courtesy Time+Tide 


CONSERVATION 

N 

orman Carr is quite 

possibly the most influential 

conservationist of the 

20th century. It is thanks 

to him that tourists’ 

primary interest in Africa 

has shifted from hunting 

to game watching, and that we have 

national parks and other protected reserves 

across Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe in 

which wildlife can thrive. The pioneer of 

the walking safari and the first person to 

open a safari company in Zambia, Carr 

also understood the importance of local 

community empowerment and employment in 

ensuring conservation projects’ sustainability. 

The heartland of Carr’s work was the 

Luangwa Valley in Zambia, which is where 

I want to transport you -- at least in your 

mind -- today. The Luangwa River and its 

tributaries meander at the tail end of the 

Great African Rift Valley and their life giving 

waters support more than 60 different kinds 

of mammals and 400 species of birds. The 

river teems with crocodiles and hippos; 

herds of Cape buffaloes and elephants 

trundle through the bush; and amongst the 

treetops you will frequently see the heads of 

Thornicroft’s giraffes snacking on the leaves. 

Norman Carr Safaris -- now incorporated 

into Time+Tide -- has five properties in South 

Luangwa, each one of which has a light 

footprint in the valley. Time+Tide Nsolo 

is one of the oldest camps in the region, 

a place of barefoot luxury besides the 

seasonal Luwi River. The dry riverbed is a 

thoroughfare for the local lion pride and 

there is also a wild dog den nearby, so from 

the night time howling to the first sighting of 

tracks on your morning walk, the anticipation 

of an up close predator viewing builds. A 

game drive is always a thrill, but it is during 

a walking safari that the hairs on the back of 

your neck will really stand up on end. 

In this part of South Luangwa, you are 

quite literally walking in Norman Carr’s 

footsteps, often along trails that he forged. 

He trained his guides to notice and care 

about the tiniest details and to understand 

the symbiotic relationships between all 

creatures great and small. When you walk, 

you have the time -- and are close enough to 

the ground -- to see new shoots sprouting, the 

way that insects scurry across the dirt, and to 

stop and sniff dung to see if it is fresh. That’s 

a sure fire sign that the animal who made 

it has recently passed by. Your eagle eyed 

guide will spot and point out the smallest 

paw prints in the sandy soil, and when there 

are tracks in the mud, he can tell with great 

precision when they were laid. 

I adore walking out in the morning, 

when the vegetation scented air is still cool 

and fresh. I listen out for the chattering and 

chirruping of the birds, keeping my eyes 

peeled for the flashes of colour as they dart 

from one tree to the next. With no sound 

or vibration from a vehicle engine to alarm 

them, it is possible to get much closer to the 

birds than I would on a game drive. And 

this gives the guides the chance to show off 

their knowledge, identifying not only iconic 

species such as the southern carmine bee 

eater and my favourite, the lilac breasted 

roller, but also rarer species like the pretty 

African pitta, Allen’s gallinule, and the 

always well camouflaged moustached grass 

warbler. 

A walking safari can deliver an unrivalled 

adrenaline kick at any moment, too. I 

still remember the time that I was happily 

plodding through the bush when my guide 

suddenly gave the sign to stop, be quiet, and 

get down. I froze. What was up ahead? I 

had no idea, and without this intervention 

would undoubtedly have trundled 

unsuspectingly into danger. 

The threat, on this occasion, was a 

fully grown elephant bull. He was eating 

his breakfast placidly enough, and hadn’t 

noticed us, but regardless of that I watched 

wide eyed. I could hear my heartbeat 

banging in my ears, knew my breath had 

quickened, and felt the tingle of terror 

mingled with exhilarating excitement running 

down my spine. There was nowhere I 

could run, and nothing between me and 

the elephant. That’s what makes a walking 

safari so unforgettable: it’s the chance of an 

encounter such as this. 

By the time I get back to Time+Tide 

Nsolo after a walk, I’m inevitably tired with 

exertion and the over stimulation of my 

senses. Breakfast is a welcome reward, and 

if I’ve been out separately from other guests, 

we’ll relive the highlights of our respective 

mornings, regaling each other with accounts 

of our most memorable sightings. There’s 

no WiFi or mobile signal here, and that’s a 

blessing in our hectic, overconnected world. 

I can sit out on the deck for hours at a time, 

undisturbed and watching giraffes wander 

by. Now and then there’s an elephant mother 

and her calf, the latter playing without a 

care in the world. Norman Carr found 

paradise in South Luangwa and thanks to his 

lifelong conservation efforts, this Eden is still 

here for us to enjoy. 

Sophie Ibbotson is the author of five Bradt 

Travel Guides, including the first guidebook 

to South Sudan. She travelled to Zambia 

with wildlife and wilderness specialists Africa 

Exclusive. 



ROAD TRIP 

ROAD TRIP 

Faith Kanja sets off on an 

action-packed seven day 

road trip with the Kenya 

Tourism Board, covering 

places such as Karura Forest, 

Limuru, Aberdares National 

Park and Diani. 

PHOTOGRAPHS FAITH KANJA 

Our seven day trip 

organized by the 

Kenya Tourism Board 

encompassed a circuit 

around parts of Central 

Kenya and South Coast. 

We were in to discover 

some of Kenya’s hidden 

treasures that make for good weekend 

escapes. All set with two 4x4 touring 

cruisers, we were ready to explore the 

country. 

We had begun the day’s activities by 

taking up the famous Heritage Tour offered 

by the Sarova Stanley Hotel. Throughout 

the tour, I felt as though in a museum of 

sorts, taken back in time through the rich, 

authentic history of Nairobi’s first luxurious 

hotel. Did you know that the hotel’s Thorn 

Tree Cafe traces its roots to one of Nairobi’s 

first makeshift post offices? The “Tree Mail” 

was a centrally placed acacia tree that 

allowed travellers to pin mail onto its trunk! 

Sarova Stanley is a historical charm and 

definitely has a story to tell. 

The adventure kicked off at Karura 

Forest, which is one of the largest urban 

gazetted forests in the world. It is a 

very convenient recreational facility for 

individuals and families to take up trail 

biking, running, walking and dog-walking 

within the marked nature trails. There are 

also scenic waterfalls and caves to see, 

open fields to enjoy some ball games, a 

tennis court as well as picnic sites. Visitors 

can also spot a few animals within the forest 

such as monkeys, bush bucks, bush pigs, 

various bird species, some reptiles among 

others. 

After spending our first night at 

Brackenhurst, I was excited about our 

second day. I was hoping to escape the mist 

but the rain and cold persisted. However, 

being an adrenaline junkie, the activities 

lined up for the day had me excited. The 

Forest in Kereita is a superb outdoors 

facility offering a myriad of activities such 

as ziplining, mountain biking, archery, 

horse riding, paint-balling, foot-golfing and 

camping. Few skids and falls during the trail 

biking added to the fun. 

We were in for a long drive from Limuru 

to the Aberdare Country Club in Nyeri 

where we spent our second night. The 

country club is set within its own wildlife 

sanctuary and as such it was delightful to 

spot baboons, antelopes and peacocks while 

heading to the dining area for breakfast. 

The lush gardens and cozy cottages set on 

a hill made it an ideal country getaway 

destination. The beauty of the property was 

very evident as one overlooked the Aberdare 

Ranges to the west and Mount Kenya to the 

east. I wished to have spent more time there 

but we had an early day planned out. 

Majority of the trip was characterized by 

rain and it was therefore not surprising to be 

met by a fallen tree only a few kilometres 

into the Aberdare National Park. A few 

animals did not shy away from crossing 

into our driveway but I felt intimidated by 

the massive size of the buffaloes. Huge 

canopies, forested gorges and massive open 

moorlands are characteristic of this park, 

making it an ideal location for mountain 

scenery photographers. As we drove up 

the hilly terrain, it was interesting to spot 

different types of vegetation that kept 

varying with the altitude. 

I was mostly drawn by the intriguing 

waterfalls situated inside the Aberdares. We 

visited the Chania Waterfall, Magura Falls 

and Queen’s cave. The majestic falls have 

a way of making one feel like a miniature 

being. For a moment I lost myself in the 

calming sounds of the falling water. The 

Karuru Falls are the largest and most popular 

falls inside the Aberdares but we were not 

fortunate to visit them on that day. 

Having spent a full day at the park, it 

was time to hit the road again and head 

to Nanyuki. We checked into Maiyan 

Villas where we would spend the next two 

nights. I was eager to catch a glimpse of 

the mountain upon waking up but it was too 

cloudy. Even while heading towards Timau 

for our day’s excursion, we were still not 

lucky to spot Mt. Kenya. Nonetheless, my 

mind was set on exploring the Ngare Ndare 

Forest. The Forest is set between the Borana 

and Lewa conservancies and it was therefore 

intriguing to see a number of fallen trees 

thanks to the elephants. Ngare Ndare is 

popular for its azure pools that form beneath 

its three main waterfalls. People can plunge 

into one of the pools and enjoy a nice swim. 

In addition, there’s a 500 metre long canopy 

walk. It however took a lot of convincing for 

some to take up the scenic walk that’s set 40 

feet above the ground. 

We were treated to an impromptu 

lunch at the Fairmont Mt Kenya Safari 

Club. I must admit this was one of the most 

beautiful properties I have been to. The 

hotel is situated inside the Mt Kenya Wildlife 

Conservancy which provides visitors with 

access to animals inside the orphanage. 

We woke up to our final Day at Maiyan 

Villas. Checkout was at 10:00am giving us 

enough time to walk around the property. 

Each villa has a heated plunge pool and 

jacuzzi and varying room suites. The resort 

also has a number of ball game courts, 

offers biking, boat rides as well as horse 

rides. To properly wrap up the central circuit, 

we were treated to the majestic views of the 

Mountain over breakfast. 

With all our heavy clothing packed 

very far down our bags, we were set to 

welcome the coastal leg of the trip. We took 

a connecting charter flight from Mt Kenya 

Airstrip to Wilson Airport before proceeding 

to Ukunda Airstrip. Upon arrival, we checked 

into the Swahili Beach Resort where we 

would spend the final three nights. 

The coastal circuit tour kicked off with a 

visit to the Shimba Hills National Reserve, 

which is Kenya’s home to the endangered 

sable antelope which inhabits the wooded 

savanna in East and Southern Africa. 

There are few animals in the game reserve 

hence the main attraction is the Sheldrick 

Waterfall and Nature Trail. We had to trek 

downhill for 2.5km in order to get there. 

Our ranger guided us down a trail which 

was dotted with mud, canopies, ants and a 

river crossing. Part of the trip’s highlight was 

removing our shoes to cross over (luckily no 

crocodiles). The ground was very slippery 

and I really hoped I would not slip into 

the mud. Upon arriving at the waterfalls, 

everyone dashed to the water like little 

children. 

We later headed to Shifoga (Shimba Hills 

Forest Guides Association) Cultural Village 

where we got to learn about the Mijikenda 

Culture. There’s a lot of conservation being 

done by the Forest Guides. We were taken 

through the ‘Kaya’ model and got to also 

witness an exorcism ritual take place. This 

was a nice twist to our coastal adventure; 

one without the beach. 

Our scheduled visit to Wasini island 

and the Kisite Mpunguti Marine Park was 

cancelled due to bad weather. Despite it 

raining all day, we had a superb time at 

the Swahili Beach Resort. This wrapped up 

our activity packed expedition around the 

country. Wonderful memories were made 

and beautiful gems were discovered. Kenya 

is indeed a magical country. Get on the road 

and get exploring! 


A HIDDEN GEM IN 

MALAWI 

Located in the Upper Shire Valley, Liwonde 

National Park is undoubtedly Malawi’s most 

spectacular wildlife viewing destination. 

Originally established in 1973, Liwonde has 

undergone a dramatic transformation in recent 

years, one that has restored it to its former 

glory. Maurice Schutgens returns to the park 

after 12 years to experience it. 


DISPATCH 

T 

he memories came flooding 

back in a hurry. While it 

may have been just over 

a decade since I had last 

laid eyes on Liwonde, I still 

remembered the details well 

enough. The bumpy road to 

the park, the large mango trees scattered 

in the neighbouring villages, the humidity 

hanging heavy in the air. It was exhilarating. 

From the jetty I gazed out over the dark 

waters of the Shire River, the pièce de 

résistance of Liwonde, beautifully lined 

with countless towering borassus palms 

and ancient baobabs. And then there were 

the hippos, known as mvuu in the local 

Chichewa language, put simply - they were 

everywhere, grunting and groaning loudly 

without apology. It put a smile on my face; it 

was good to be back. 

A herd of elephants waded into the 

shallows as we crossed over to Mvuu Camp 

(no rewards for guessing why), a rustic 

style accommodation managed by Central 

African Wilderness Safaris, situated on the 

banks of the Shire River. The core dining 

area, flanked between two ginormous 

baobabs, offered sweeping views over the 

floodplains teeming with life. Looking out 

over this scene you would be forgiven for 

thinking that this paradise had existed since 

time immemorial, but Liwonde’s journey has 

not been without trial and tribulation. 

In 2015, when African Parks (a South 

Africa based non-profit conservation 

organisation) took over the management 

of Liwonde, in partnership with Malawi’s 

Department of National Parks and Wildlife 

(DNPW), the 548km2 park was littered with 

tens of thousands of wire snares and wildlife 

populations had been decimated. Poaching 

was rife and severe human-wildlife conflict 

was a daily occurence. Liwonde was facing 

an uncertain future. It is in this context that 

Liwonde’s transformation must be viewed. 

After overhauling the law enforcement 

capacity and constructing a comprehensive 

perimeter fence to regain control of the 

park, African Parks set about restoring 

Liwonde. While a small population of 

critically endangered black rhinos have 

lived in the park since the early 90s, it had 

long ago lost all of its apex predators. This 

was set to change. A small population of 

cheetahs were reintroduced in May 2017, a 

historic moment given that these cats were 

last documented in Liwonde over a century 

ago. Lions followed in August 2018. African 

Parks’ investment and business approach to 

conservation has seen a revival in tourism 

numbers and bolstered revenue to what is 

today a big-five destination. 

While I was in Liwonde to attend a 

conservation technology conference with 

other like-minded organisations, I was keen 

to get out and explore the park and maybe, 

just maybe, catch a glimpse of the critically 

endangered black rhinos. In the late 

afternoon, after a long day of meetings, we 

set out for a game drive heading away from 

the lush riverine areas. The contrast couldn't 

have been more clear. Penetrating deep into 

the dry mopane woodland, occasionally 

broken up by a baobab, we silently scanned 

for wildlife. We spotted a lone young bull 

elephant going through the motions of 

dismantling a tree to the chagrin of the park 

management, but it was the sight of the 

rare sable antelope that caught our breath. 

Their brown and orange flanks perfectly 

camouflaging them in the surrounding 

vegetation’s neutral palette. Suddenly 

spooked, they sprinted across the road and 

disappeared into the undergrowth. 

Come nightfall, with us happily settled 

in our chalets, the park once again came to 

life. A sign on the way to the rooms wisely 

informed us to ‘beware of the hippo’ who 

certainly have the right of way. As we tried 

to sleep they made their rounds grazing on 

the lush grass in front of our accommodation, 

none too quietly in their antics. 

On our final evening in Liwonde we 

headed out onto the Shire River for a boat 

safari. Wildlife encounters are all but 

guaranteed, the grassy floodplains providing 

critical dry-season grazing. Hippos eyed us 

suspiciously, only their eyes showing above 

the water, as we glided by carefully while 

crocodiles basked in the heat with toothy 

grins. Spectacularly coloured malachite 

kingfishers balanced delicately on reeds in 

the shallows as fish eagles swooped low 

in the warm afternoon breeze scanning for 

prey. The sheer diversity of wildlife along the 

river was astounding. 

The African sky turned a soft shade of 

lilac as the day drew to a close. With a 

Malawi gin and tonic in hand we admired 

the most perfect of sunsets as storm clouds 

gathered far away on the horizon. I couldn't 

help but think that Liwonde National Park is 

one of Africa’s best kept secrets. 

Hippos eyed us 

suspiciously, only their 

eyes showing above the 

water as we glided by, 

while crocodiles basked 

in the heat with toothy 

grins. 


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WHAT I PACK 

Yvonne Endo is co-owner of Endo², a brand 

curated with her sister Patti to create a 

collection of products featuring Patti’s art. 

These are the travel essentials you are likely to 

find in her bag this holiday season. 

CHANEL COCO 

MADEMOISELLE 

PERFUME Easily my 

favorite scent. I find 

that a few spritzes go a 

long way in keeping me 

smelling great all day. 

FENTY GLOSS BOMB IN “FENTY GLOW” 

I used to love all things matte for my lips 

until I tried this gloss - plumps my lips and 

it’s also super moisturizing. 

TOTE BAG FROM ENDO² – Tote bags really 

come in handy - I can throw in all my 

essentials, use it as a shopping bag or a 

fashion statement piece and easily fold it 

away when I’m not using it. 

SAMSUNG S9+IN 

“MIDNIGHT BLACK” - I use 

my phone to take all my 

pictures and videos and the 

picture quality on this phone 

is amazing. I especially 

love capturing interiors and 

architecture of places I am 

visiting on holiday. 

CANTU COCONUT CURLING 

CREAM - My hair can get 

pretty moody depending on 

the weather and climate, 

but this curling cream 

keeps my curls moisturised 

and manageable which is 

important when you have the 

volume of hair that I have. 

SUNNIES FROM MANGO 

They don’t just protect my 

eyes, they are also a statement 

fashion accessory and hide any 

evidence of long nights.

Nomad issue #24

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