World Traveller December 2019

INSPIRED BY 

ISSUE 104 | DECEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

CAMBODIA 

MALDIVES 

STAYCATIONS 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

A long 

weekend... 

in Vienna 

SILENT 

NIGHTS 

Why Florence 

is more magical 

in the winter 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

India’s great eight 

Take your pick of our memorable trip ideas that 

showcase the very best of this vibrant country

Welcome note 

Time flies when you're having fun, and that's certainly the 

case for 2019 – where has the year gone? The World Traveller 

Middle East team has been busy racking up the air miles and 

ticking some of the most coveted destinations off our wish list. 

Managing Director 

Victoria Thatcher 

Chief Creative Officer 

John Thatcher 

General Manager 

David Wade 

Managing Editor 

Faye Bartle 

faye@hotmedia.me 

Content Writers 

Habiba Azab 

habiba@hotmedia.me 

From the glamorous shores of Sicily to the 

spellbinding Seychelles and exotic allure of the 

Maldives (read our experience of swimming with 

manta rays on page 58), we've certainly expanded 

our horizons, and we hope that you have too. 

There's still a little time to squeeze in one last 

trip, or at least a few staycations, before the 

year-end. From glamming it up on the beaches 

of Goa to embarking on a peak adventure in the 

Himalayas, our cover story, which highlights eight 

great trips to take in India, is sure to point you in 

the right direction (turn to page 26). 

If you're feeling festive, we say head to Vienna to 

check out the famous markets and to soak up the 

fairytale-like charm of this winter wonderland that 

begs discovery (see page 52). If you've burned 

through all your holiday allowance, however, don't 

fret, as there are plenty of hotels and resorts on 

the doorstep that are pulling out all the stops for 

the end of year celebrations (page 62). 

Happy travels – see you in 2020, 

FIVE THINGS 

WE LEARNED 

THIS ISSUE: 

1 

It's the peak season to 

see the mesmerising 

Northern Lights in Oslo, 

p13 

2 

In Copacabana, people 

celebrate the New Year 

by wading into the ocean 

and jumping over seven 

waves while making 

seven wishes, p16 

3 

You can now go on an 

African-style safari in 

Saudi Arabia, p20 

Editorial Assistant 

Ronak Sagar 

Art Director 

Kerri Bennett 

Senior Designer 

Hiral Kapadia 

Senior Advertising Manager 

Mia Cachero 

mia@hotmedia.me 

Production Manager 

Muthu Kumar 

INSPIRED BY 

Photography credits: 

Getty Images and Phocal Media 

Reproduction in whole or in part 

without written permission from 

HOT Media is strictly prohibited. 

HOT Media does not accept 

liability for omissions or errors in 

World Traveller. 

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 

December 2019 // Issue 140 // Magnificent India / Florence / Cambodia / Vienna 

Faye Bartle 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

ISSUE 104 | DECEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

CAMBODIA 

MALDIVES 

STAYCATIONS 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

A long 

weekend... 

in Vienna 

COVER IMAGE 

Getty Images 

INSPIRED BY 

India’s great eight 

Take your pick of our memorable trip ideas that 

showcase the very best of this vibrant country 

Find us at… 

SILENT 

NIGHTS 

Why Florence 

is more magical 

in the winter 

Win! 

A two-night stay 

at JW Marriott 

Marquis Dubai, 

p75 

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com 

FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME 

INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme 

TWITTER @WTravellerME 

4 

India has some 50 tiger 

reserves, which are 

home to around 2,225 

of the beasts – and 

Bandhavgarh National 

Park in Madhya Pradesh 

is one of the best, p33 

5 

Hanifaru Bay in Maldives 

is the largest manta 

feeding region on the 

planet – go between 

June and November 

when they gather in 

groups of 150 or more, 

p58 

worldtravellermagazine.com 5

www.kurumba.com

Suvretta House 

Contents 

December 2019 

18 

GLOBETROTTER 

regulars 

10 15 22 74 76 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

This month's goto 

places include 

adventure spot 

Queenstown, and 

snowy Oslo. 

GLOBETROTTER 

From Europe's top 

skiing spots to a wild 

safari in Saudi Arabia 

and the best places to 

ring in 2020 – it's time 

to take a trip. 

THE KNOWLEDGE 

dnata Travel's resident 

globetrotter, Emily 

Williams, shines a 

light on the most 

popular destinations 

to visit in 2020. 

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD 

Head online for 

exclusive travel content 

and, better yet, the 

chance to win a fivestar 

stay at JW Marriott 

Marquis Dubai. 

SUITE DREAMS 

Marvel at the sweeping 

view of Central Park 

from inside Park Hyatt 

New York's impressive 

new penthouse – the 

Manhattan Sky Suite. 


CONTENTS 

features 

26 38 

INDIA'S EIGHT SILENT NIGHTS 

GREAT TRIPS 

Florence has a rare 

Those in the know magic when days grow 

reveal eight memorable shorter and quieter, 

trips to take in the says long-time devotee 

vibrant country. 

Adrian Mourby. 

44 

THE RAIL DEAL 

Travel writer Alex 

Robinson rides a 

comfy new train line 

through the historic 

heart of Cambodia. 

Maldives Anantara 

Kihavah Beach Pool Villas 

58 

BLUE CRUSH 

weekends 

52 58 

A LONG WEEKEND BLUE CRUSH 

IN VIENNA 

Habiba Azab finds 

Austria’s capital city is a serenity alongside the 

winter wonderland that ocean's majestic gentle 

begs discovery. 

giants in the Maldives. 

62 

STAYCATIONS 

Feel in need of a break? 

We have a few more 

reasons to book a 

weekend escape. 

70 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

It's time we sent you 

packing. Choose your 

next adventure from 

our exclusive offers. 

8 worldtravellermagazine.com

TRENDING DESTINATIONS 

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, 

reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month 

Playa del Carmen 

With palm-fringed sandy beaches, turquoise waters brimming with reef wonders and a spicy foodie scene that 

delights all palates, this beachside city ranks right up there with Mexico's upcoming spots. Add a prime location (it's 

just a one-hour drive away from lively Cancun), as well as a treasure trove of diving sites and you've got yourself a 

great coastal retreat. Plus, with Emirates launching direct flights to Mexico City, it's never been easier to go. 

Highlights 1 Walk through century-old stalactites that open up to crystal clear natural pools, and enjoy a refreshing 

dip at Cenote Chaak Tun. 2 Learn all the tips and tricks to mastering a traditional Mayan dish at El Pueblito Cooking School. 

3 Tap your feet to the rhythm of a live mariachi band and take off on board colourful Mexican Gondolas at Xoximilco Park. 



Queenstown 

Sitting on the shores of the South Island’s Lake Wakatipu, against a dramatic backdrop of the majestic Southern 

Alps, this thrill-a-minute city is famously known as the birthplace of bungee jumping and all things exciting. 

Whether it's hiking in the surrounding landscapes, jet-boating, white water rafting, canyon swinging or jumping 

off the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge, the list of adventures you can throw yourself into here is endless. 

Highlights 1 Chill out with a drink in hand amid ice-carved interiors and check out the amazing showcase of sculptures at Below Zero 

Ice Bar. 2 Join award-winning photographers as they show you around the best off-the-beaten-track destinations worth a click on a 

photo safari. 3 Tiptoe quietly into the darkened kiwi houses at Kiwi Birdlife Park and marvel at these eccentric birds. 


Cebu 

The largest of the Visayas archipelago, this natural hub draws water babies with its wide expanse of white-sand 

beaches, azure waters, cascading waterfalls and colourful coral reefs that are perfect for diving and snorkelling, 

with wild sightings such as whale sharks to watch out for. Back on dry land, the city is brimming with buzzing 

eateries serving the freshest of seafood, and a burgeoning shopping scene for those in the mood to splurge. 

Highlights 1 Discover the history and legacies of the Spanish government, and view well-preserved Spanish artefacts at Fort San Pedro. 

2 Embark on a cultural journey at Cebu Taoist Temple, which aims to preserve the teachings of Lao Tzu, the ancient Chinese philosopher. 

3 Get a bird's-eye view of Cebu’s panoramic skyline at Tops Lookout and watch the sun set over the Mactan Bridge and neighbouring islands. 



Oslo 

Watch as Norway's capital city transforms into a winter wonderland this month. Get out on the snow and speed 

down the slopes at Oslo Winter Park, shop at the bustling festive markets, visit Oslo Opera House, unwind in 

a floating sauna, or take a dip in the cool waters of the Oslofjord. It's also the peak season to see the Northern 

Lights, so book one of the many available tours and go on the hunt for the flickering marvels. 

Highlights 1 Discover the world's best-preserved Viking ships and finds from Viking tombs around the Oslo Fjord – it's all on 

display at the Viking Ship Museum. 2 Ponder nature's power and admire She Lies, a floating ice sculpture created by Italian 

artist Monica Bonvicini to embody nature’s constant change. 3 Visit Vigeland Sculpture Park, an extraordinary open-air showcase 

of 200 sculptures by Norway's best-loved sculptor Gustav Vigeland, including the park’s stand-out centrepiece, The Monolith. 


Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. 

Renew for the journey ahead. 

A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, 

where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the 

well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, 

one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two 

Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals 

or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious 

gifts and spa products for every occasion. 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE 

T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

*Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.

DECEMBER 

Globetrotter 

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Be informed, be inspired, be there 

MOUNTAIN HIGH 

If sleepy sloths, grumbling volcanos 

and lush tropical jungles sound like the 

perfect adventure to you, then you're 

in luck. Set to open this month (on 

20 December), Nayara Tented Camp 

promises all of the above, with a Costa 

Rican flair. Wake up to spectacular 

views of the Arenal Volcano in any of 

the resort's private tents, each boasting 

its own natural hot spring. To earn its 

eco stripes, the retreat is leaving a 

protected area of the hill as a sloth refuge 

by planting 1,000 Guarumo trees, the 

animal's favourite habitat. 


GLOBETROTTER 

Photo: New Year 

celebrations at 

Copacabana beach 

TRAVEL 

IN STYLE 

Add a dash of Hollywood 

glamour to your next 

adventure with the new TUMI 

x Chris Pratt Collection, 

a nine-piece range 

of travel bags and 

accessories inspired 

by the star's on-theroad 

style. Available 

exclusively in APAC 

and the Middle East. 

Refresh your winter 

wardrobe and help care for 

Elephants for Africa 

by snapping up 

some pieces from 

the BOSS x Meissen 

Holiday Capsule 

Collection. Featuring 

five different animal 

motifs, the stylish 

buys raise vital funds 

for conserving the iconic 

species in Botswana. 

THE COUNTDOWN IS ON 

Ring in the New Year in these destinations that do it differently 

JUMP WAVES IN COPACABANA 

With jaw-dropping firework displays, 

musical extravaganzas and a zesty 

foodie scene, it comes as no surprise 

that Rio de Janeiro is on the wish list 

for celebrating New Year's Eve. But 

what makes this lively city a once-ina-lifetime 

experience is its fun way to 

mark the occasion. When the clock 

strikes midnight, follow the throng 

of people dashing into the ocean at 

Copacabana beach and join in the 

tradition of jumping seven waves, 

making seven wishes as you rise and 

fall. The ritual honours Brazil's Goddess 

of the Sea, Lemanjá, and is believed 

to bless your year ahead with luck, 

happiness and prosperity. 

BLAZE THROUGH SCOTLAND 

If you've seen Edinburgh, head to 

Stonehaven, which is illuminated by a 

flowing sea of red and orange flames 

burning bright for the age-old Scottish 

New Year’s Eve tradition, Hogmanay. 

Watch in awe as a parade of men in 

kilts march through the city's main 

streets, swinging great balls of fire 

around their heads before tossing them 

into the sea. Legend has it that the 

ritual helps to ward off evil spirts for 

the new year. 

SHAKE IT BEAR-STYLE IN ROMANIA 

See a troupe of people dressed as 

bears dance their way through the 

streets of Moldova to the sound of pan 

pipes. The locals don bear skins for this 

spectacle, which takes place the day 

before New Year's Eve. Symbolising 

the death of the current year and the 

rebirth of a new one, the dance of the 

bears was born to ward off bad spirits, 

and is now a grizzly Romanian custom. 

For the holidays, Tiffany & 

Co. has unveiled 12 amazing 

gifts and experiences. 

Top of our list is the 

Tiffany x GLOBE- 

TROTTER luggage 

set, which shines 

with its vintage 

allure and luxurious 

craftsmanship. Channel 

your inner Audrey Hepburn 

and arrive in style with this 

coveted five-set collection. 

Introducing a bold new 

look, the two new RIMOWA 

Original suitcase colours 

will make your travel 

gear pop. Marine 

is inspired by the 

dazzling blue of 

the Mediterranean 

while Scarlet is 

sampled from the 

vibrant plumage of 

the scarlet ibis bird. 


PROMOTIONAL FEATURE 

Connoisseur of Rare and Boutique Experiences 

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi 

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi merges authentic Arabian hospitality with more 

than a hundred years of bespoke St. Regis tradition, located at the captivating 

address of Nation Towers on the Abu Dhabi West Corniche. Situated between the 

33rd and 49th floors, each of the hotel’s 228 guestrooms and 55 suites enchant 

with the finest materials and magnificent views of the Arabian Gulf and the UAE 

capital, while offering the signature St. Regis Butler service to all guests. The hotel 

is home to the world’s highest suspended suite, located 220 metres above sea 

level, a beach club with 200 metre sandy beach and a spacious swimming pool, a 

children’s club, one of the UAE’s largest spas as well as six distinctive restaurants 

and lounges catering to all tastes. 

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, Nation Towers, Corniche, Abu Dhabi | 02 694 4444 | stregisabudhabi.com 

New Year’s Beach Party 

Tuesday, 31st December 

8:00 pm – 02:00 am 

Since 1904, St. Regis has been known for 

its lavish grand gatherings and parties. This 

year Nation Riviera at The St. Regis Abu 

Dhabi welcomes the New Year beachside with 

an exceptional buffet, bottomless bar, live 

band and an unobstructed view of the most 

amazing fireworks. 

Special rates for groups of 10 or more, as well 

as a complimentary bottle of bubbly. 

Reservations must be made in advance. 

Call +971 2 694 4553 or 

email restaurants.abudhabi@stregis.com

GLOBETROTTER 

DOWN 

THE SLOPES 

With crisp pistes, mountaintop thrills 

and classic alpine vistas, these luxury 

resorts invite intrepid skiers 

to a winter wonderland 

“ 

If you've seen 007's stunt-tastic descent 

in The World is Not Enough, you'll have a 

pretty good idea what skiing here is like 

Photography: Reuben Krabbe 

Suvretta House, St. Moritz 

A testimony to classic Swiss 

hospitality, this century-old 

winter palace draws elite 

travellers with its romantic 

beauty, old-school luxury 

and vast ski terrains. Been a 

while since you've been on 

the snow? No worries. This 

winter season, the resort is 

launching a programme of 

expert support for skiers so 

they can continue to enjoy 

winter sports even after an 

injury or a prolonged break. 

” 

Chamonix Resort, France 

If you've seen 007's stunttastic 

descent in The 

World Is Not Enough, you'll 

have a pretty good idea 

what skiing here is like. 

Brave dramatically steep 

mountainsides in any of the 

four ski areas while admiring 

majestic views of Mont 

Blanc, the highest peak in 

the Alps. There are plenty of 

beginners’ slopes too, which 

makes it a bucket-list tick for 

all skill levels. 

Bugaboos Lodge, Canada 

With cascading powder 

drops, soaring granite spires 

and stunning wilderness, it's 

no wonder this cosy retreat 

is considered the birthplace 

of heli-skiing. Whether you’re 

new to the sport or a veteran 

of all things steep and deep, 

over three million acres of 

terrain is sure to satisfy your 

thirst for adrenaline. After a 

day of thrills and spills, dip 

into the outdoor hot tub and 

soak up the panoramic view. 


AL MAHA DESERT RESORT & SPA X WORLD TRAVELLER 

At one with nature 

Nestled amid the iconic sand dunes of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, 

this eco-luxury retreat beckons with its exquisite natural bounty 

Stay in the luxurious Bedouin Suite 

Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert 

Resort & Spa may only be 68km 

southeast of Dubai, but it feels 

like a world away from the constant buzz of 

the city. Gone are the massive skyscrapers, 

bottleneck traffic and go-go attitude. Here, 

nights are starry and quiet, fascinating 

wildlife roam freely on the grounds and 

fuschia-pink sunsets spellbind with their 

picture-perfect beauty. 

With Bedouin-inspired architecture 

that blends perfectly with the breathtaking 

desert landscape, the resort’s 42 luxurious 

suites are all canvas-roofed bungalows 

adorned with Arabesque furniture, 

Arabian antiques and artefacts. Wake up 

to stunning vistas of the peach-coloured 

dunes, soak up the winter sun on your 

terrace or cool off in your private plunge 

pool, with only the odd curious gazelle for 

company. Should your creative instincts 

take over, an easel with art materials and a 

writing desk can be found in all the rooms, 

as well as a pair of binoculars to easily spot 

Enjoy the dreamy private 

pool of the Bedouin Suite 

the grazing white Arabian oryx. If lounging 

around the lavish sun-drenched property 

isn't enough for you, archery, desert drives, 

wildlife safaris, falconry and horse riding 

are just some of the thrilling ways to 

explore. Take a guided walk to discover the 

striking flora and fauna that call the desert 

home, or enjoy an exhilarating 4x4 drive 

over the big sand dunes with a professional 

field guide. If a camel trek into the sunset 

is more your pace, just grab a hump, and 

head out. 

An action-packed afternoon can work 

up quite the appetite and Al Diwaan aims 

to please every palate with its world-class 

dining options that range from traditional 

Arabic cuisine to delectable international 

dishes. For a peaceful afternoon, Hajar 

Terrace Bar boasts panoramic dune views 

that are best appreciated with a chilled 

drink in hand. Take relaxation a step 

further and head to Timeless Spa for a wide 

range of wellness, rejuvenation and beauty 

therapies. Day guests can book the Pool & 

Spa package or the Spa Indulgence package, 

which includes a 60-minute spa treatment, 

a full-day access to the infinity pool and a 

delicious three-course lunch. 

Book your accommodation in advance 

and enjoy a special Prepay & Save rate. 

To find out more, visit al-maha.com 


GLOBETROTTER 

Address Sky View, Dubai 

Sleek splendour is the hallmark of this 

new luxury city hotel, which graces the 

bustling Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid 

Boulevard. With an exclusive address, 

stylish rooms and top-notch restaurants, 

it's sure to tick all your holiday boxes. 

Step up your Instagram game and make 

a beeline for the sweeping rooftop 

infinity pool. Boasting panoramic views 

of the glittering city skyline, the stunning 

spot is sure to elevate your feed. 

NEW HOTELS 

ON THE RISE 

Wake up in the heart of the city, by the ocean or amid lush greenery. This month 

offers up a world full of new choices when it comes to memorable stays 

1 2 3 

Aman Kyoto, Japan 

Learn the principles of Zen meditation 

from a local monk, practise the mindful 

art of ikebana (flower arranging), and 

onsen with the best of them (bathe in 

the healing hot spring pools) at this 

new luxury resort in Japan. Drawing 

inspiration from the traditional Japanese 

ryokan inn, rooms are strikingly 

minimalist and showcase the spectacular 

natural surroundings. Plus, it's within 

easy reach of Kyoto's 17 UNESCO sites. 

Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort & Villas 

Nestled on the less explored southeastern 

coast of Mauritius, this tropical 

retreat will draw you in with its 

untouched natural beauty. Whether you 

want to wake up to views of the lush 

gardens or the Indian Ocean, serene 

vistas await. The showstopper, however, 

is the impressive 30-metre ozonebased 

swimming pool – it's one of 

many sustainability initiatives that have 

been incorporated in the property. 

Seeking a stand out 

supper in Dubai? We 

rate Francky Semblat's 

new fine-dining menu 

at Al Muntaha, Burj 

Al Arab – the confit 

strawberry ensures 

you'll end your meal 

on a sweet note. 

Embark on a wild safari... in Saudi Arabia 

Move over South Africa. Saudi Arabia is emerging as a top spot for a safari 

adventure and, thanks to the new tourst e-visa, it's a brilliant time to plan a trip to 

the kingdom. Journey to Nofa Resort Riyadh, A Radisson Collection Hotel, which 

overlooks Nofa Wildlife Park and is home to 700 wild animals, including giraffes, 

zebras and cheetahs. The African-style lodge has 57 luxurious bungalows and villas, 

an equestrian estate, and golf course surrounded by sand dunes and mountains. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X SCTDA 

BELIEVE THE HYPE 

Explosive starts, blazing speeds and hairpin turns, pack your 

bags for a week of thrills and spills at Sharjah World Championship Week 

Sharjah's Formula 1 

Powerboat Racing team 

Sharjah's powerboat 

Powerboats begin the race 

Freestyle round at the UIM-ABP 

Aquabike Sharjah Grand Prix 

You can feel the tension in the air. 

An eerie silence takes hold of the 

entire arena, all eyes are fixed 

on the sleek and powerful powerboats 

lining up at the start pontoon. In a flash, 

10,000-horsepower engines blast across 

the surface leaving nothing but a glorious 

fountain of white spray in their wake. 

Renowned as the flagship international 

series of single-seater inshore circuit 

Formula 1 Powerboat Racing, The U.I.M. 

F1H2O World Championship lures 

thousands of spectators every year 

to Khalid Lagoon for an exhilarating 

three-day race fiesta. With the crystalclear 

waters of the Arabian Gulf as 

a gorgeous backdrop, the highlyanticipated 

event is taking place from 

the 17-21 of December. Get set to see 

up to 20 leading drivers jet off in their 

superfast tunnel-hull catamarans and 

clock up impressive speeds of up to 

220km/h on the straights. Be sure to 

arrive early so you can bag a good spot 

with a clear view of all the action. After 

all, Sharjah’s prized team is participating 

this year and pulling out all the stops. 

The excitement continues at the 

UIM-ABP Aquabike Sharjah Grand Prix, 

with its gripping display of jet-skiing 

skills and bravado. Highly competitive, 

fascinatingly risky and intensely 

challenging, the spectacle will keep 

you on the edge of your seat as riders 

compete in various high-octane circuit 

heats. The showstopper, however, is 

the spectacular freestyle rounds. Hold 

your breath as competitors pull off 

risky moves and deliver gravity-defying 

aerial acrobatics that demand extreme 

strength and agility. You’ll also want to 

keep an eye out for tricks performed with 

no hands – it garners extra points and, 

let’s face it, is a show in its own right. 

Find out more at visitsharjah.com 


KNOW-HOW 

The Knowledge 

HOW TO... 

Write your travel wish list for 2020 

From Finland’s winter snow adventures to vibrant Taiwan, we shine a light 

on the five most popular destinations to tick off your go-to list next year 

Wondering where to head to next? 

We’ve got the skinny of the places 

that are luring intrepid travellers from 

the emirates. “People in the UAE are 

becoming increasingly adventurous in 

their travel choices, with social media a 

key influencer," enthuses Emily Williams, 

head of retail and product at dnata 

Travel UAE. "There's a spike in interest 

for places that are either off-thebeaten-track, 

long-haul options, or that 

have not previously recorded as much 

traction." Here are the destinations 

everyone should see at least once… 

Camping in Leppävirta. 

Photo: Petri Jauhiainen / 

Vastavalo for Visit Finland 

MOSCOW 

Bookings to Russia, which became 

visa-free for UAE nationals in 2019, 

have risen by a whopping 500% for 

dnata Travel*, and Moscow is where 

it’s at. “Russia's spike in popularity is 

also partly down to its cooler summer 

climate and affordability,” explains 

Emily. “Most travellers are staying in 

five-star hotels in the capital, with the 

country’s rich history, famous art and 

grand architecture driving its allure.” 

What’s new: Join the Invisible Moscow 

immersive walking tour of one of the 

city’s oldest districts. Pop on your 

headphones for a movie-like experience 

that'll show you the destination 

through an interactive performance. 

FINLAND 

Once again crowned the happiest 

country on Earth, according to the 

2019 World Happiness Report, Finland 

is a chilled haven that begs discovery. 

“Bookings are up significantly, with UAE 

residents choosing to travel there in the 

summer for a glimpse of the Midnight 

Sun and to see the Northern Lights, with 

one of the best vantage points being 

northern Lapland from August to April," 

says Emily. "December to March is the 

best time for winter snow adventures." 

What’s new: Venture deep in the forest 

to Octola Private Wilderness, a 10-suite 

log cabin within 300 acres of private 

land in the Finnish Arctic Circle. 

TAIWAN 

“Following on from the popularity of 

Japan and South Korea, the number 

of people venturing to Taiwan is on 

the rise,” says Emily. “Emirates flies 

direct to Taipei daily, and travellers 

go to sample the excellent food, 

shopping, and hiking opportunities, 

as well as to meet its friendly people 

and take in the fantastic scenery.” 

What’s new: The 2020 Taiwan 

Lantern Festival in Taichung (from 

8-23 February) has a fantasy forest 

theme, with lots of arts and crafts 

activities and entertainment to enjoy. 

THE WESTERN CAPE 

"Now visa-free for UAE nationals, South 

Africa is enjoying a spike in visitors,” 

says Emily. “Just an 8- to 10-hour flight 

from Dubai, it has so much to offer, 

with many people choosing to stay 

in the Western Cape, which covers 

the popular Cape Town, Table Bay 

and the beautiful Garden Route.” 

What’s new: Famous for its culinary 

delights, there has been a flurry of new 

restaurant openings, including Darren 

Badenhorst’s coveted Le coin Francais 

in Franschhoek, which serves Frenchstyle 

dishes featuring regional produce. 

NEW ZEALAND 

"Looking further afield, bookings 

to New Zealand are on the up, as 

travellers grow more willing to make 

the 17.5-hour-long trip with Emirates 

to reach this beautiful destination, and 

there’s also the option to fly to Auckland 

via Bali for a multi-destination trip,” says 

Emily. “Once in New Zealand, it’s easy 

to rent a car and drive yourself around." 

What’s new: Keen shoppers will want to 

head to the newly-expanded Westfield 

Newmarket, which is causing a stir on 

the style scene with 200 boutiques 

over five levels, including Auckland's 

first David Jones department store. 

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 

800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com 

*May to September 2019. 


WE’VE 

ARRIVED 

Steal the scene at 

W Abu Dhabi - Yas Island. 

Sip & Savour at the newest 

dining destination in the Capital. 

Fuel up or chill-out at our 

rooftop WET Deck and meet 

and mingle your way at any 

occasion. 

#RevUp 

For reservations 

wabudhabiyasisland.com 

02 656 0000

’Tis the season 

Anantara Eastern Mangroves Abu Dhabi Hotel is bringing a flurry of good 

cheer to this season's festivities with its dazzling line-up of celebrations 


WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA EASTERN MANGROVES ABU DHABI HOTEL 

As the temperature starts to 

drop and the summer heat 

fades, one thing is certain 

– the holidays are right around 

the corner and Anantara Eastern 

Mangroves Abu Dhabi Hotel is here to 

make it extra special. From decorative 

lights to gingerbread houses, tree 

lightings, and appearances from Santa 

himself, this luxury retreat will give 

you all the holiday feels. Here’s our pick 

of festivities that’ll make your inner 

child squeal... 

LIGHT IT UP 

Forget dusty chimneys. Here, Santa 

floats like a dream on a boat from the 

mangroves. Head over to The Pool 

Deck and await his grand entrance 

as you nibble on complimentary 

seasonal goodies and sway to choral 

performances. But that’s not the best 

part, join your loved ones as you bring 

the festive tree to life with sparkling 

lights and ornaments galore. 

GET ARTSY 

There's a reason this tradition has 

been around for centuries; gingerbread 

houses are simply so fun to decorate. 

Families and kids can channel their 

inner Picasso and bedazzle their 

dream gingerbread house using festive 

treats including frosting, gumdrops 

and sprinkles. It’ll make for a great 

decorative piece to take back home. 

GOURMET FESTIVITIES 

Serving up authentic Thai fare, 

Pachaylen offers immersive seasonal 

flavours with a Thai twist that’s sure 

to tantalise your taste buds. Tuck into 

a four-course delectable Christmas 

Eve dinner against the calming views 

of the protected mangroves and 

relish the zesty taste of the south. A 

more traditional cuisine awaits at 

Ingredients with its buffet of festive 

favourites – think foie gras, roast 

prime rib eye, oyster rockefeller and 

sweet pudding. 

The celebrations continue on the 25 th 

at Papa Noël’s brunch where little ones 

can sit on Santa’s lap while parents 

unwind and rejoice in a seasonal feast 

with live cooking stations, surf and turf 

and homemade sweets. 

Santa will make a grand appearance 

Tuck into a scrumptious festive feast 

FESTIVE SPA-RKLE 

At Anantara Spa, sparkle and 

shine takes on a new meaning 

with the rejuvenating 90-minute 

treatment that promises to leave 

you feeling bright and jolly. 

Start with a 30-minute body scrub 

with lime and ginger salt and revel in 

the silky feeling of soft-smooth 

skin, followed by a relaxing 

30-minute back massage with 

cinnamon infused oil, followed 

by a 30-minute glowing facial to 

start the celebrations refreshed. 

In the spirit of paying it forward, 

treat your loved ones to a customised 

bespoke treatment that will pamper 

them from head to toe. From soothing 

massages and hammam rituals to 

refreshing facials, the Santa spa gift 

card will delight all the senses. 

A NEW CHAPTER 

Put on your best suit and tie (a beautiful 

gown for you ladies) and ring in the 

New Year in style with an elegant gala 

dinner at Ingredients. A soirée can’t 

go wrong with zesty cocktails, lively 

performances and scrumptious spread 

of festive favourites. 

GET IN SHAPE 

New year, new you. Bid farewell to 

lazy excuses and usher in 2020 with 

a new healthy lifestyle. Offering an 

exclusive 50% discount on annual gym 

memberships, the resort invites you to 

shed old skin and start afresh with stateof-the-art 

facilities and equipment. 

Terms and conditions apply . To find out 

more, call +971 2 656 1000 or visit anantara. 

com/en/eastern-mangroves-abu-dhabi 


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MAGNIFICENT INDIA 

India 

eight epic journeys 

You’ve pictured the palaces, the sunsets, the rickshaws and the 

raucous markets. Maybe even the heaving cities or the rattling 

trains, rolling past dense forest and barren desert. But which 

trip brings what? And how do you connect the dots? Here, our 

expert writers have selected eight memorable trips. Sit back, 

take your pick and assemble your dream journey… 




Hawa Mahal (The Palace of Winds) in Jaipur 

FIRST-TIMER’S TICK LIST 

Ultimate Golden 

Triangle 

DAYS 1-3: DELHI 

No matter how many times you’ve 

watched The Best Exotic Marigold 

Hotel, nothing will prepare you for 

the intensity of heat, dust, smell 

and teeming humanity of the 

subcontinent, so take it easy on day 

one. Stay in the elegant environs of 

the Lutyens-designed New Delhi 

district – try the colonial grandeur of 

the Maidens, waiting until day two 

to hit the streets of Old Delhi, ideally 

at daybreak by rickshaw. Your first 

stop is the Red Fort, the citadel of 

the Mughal emperors. Next door is 

the Chandni Chowk market, an ants’ 

nest of alleys selling everything from 

refurbed typewriters to hand-built 

laptops and designer fakes. The 

street food is tempting – especially 

the cheese parathas on ‘fried bread 

street’, Paranthe Wali Gali, but 

approach with caution: best if you 

have a local to steer you, to lessen 

the chance of an upset stomach. 

Relax at your hotel that afternoon, 

then at sunset, head to Humayun’s 

Tomb, inspiration for the Taj Mahal. 

No need to go in: the magic is in its 

exotic gardens. On day three, visit 

the magnificent Jama Masjid mosque, 

built by emperor Shah Jahan in the 

17th century – a wonderful place to sit 

and watch India pour past. And don’t 

miss an authentic North Indian dinner 

at Moti Mahal Delux (Greater Kailash 

1): Indian foodies say it’s as important 

a stop as the Taj itself. 

DAYS 4-5: AGRA 

A four-hour drive southeast, Agra is 

dirty, crowded and full of hustlers. 

But it’s also home to the Taj Mahal, 

the world’s most dazzling monument 

to lost love. You’re only here for 

one night, so splurge on the Oberoi 

Amarvilas for the best rooms, service 

and, above all, views of the Taj. Wait 

until late afternoon before visiting 

the complex. By then, the coach 

parties, selfie-takers and backpackers 

will have left, the light will be softer 

and there’ll be no queues at either 

gate. Don’t bother with a guide – the 

flood of information detracts from 

the beauty and you can always find 

the history online – and remember 

it’s closed on Fridays. Next day, rise 

before dawn and get your driver 

to take you over the Yamuna river, 

past the Mehtab Bagh, the pleasure 

gardens created by Jahan as the 

perfect viewpoint for the Taj Mahal, 

and out into the onion fields of 

Kachhpura village. If you time your 

trip right, for mid-March or mid- 

October, the view from here will make 

you weak at the knees. Green fields 

dotted with white egrets run down 

to a distant row of trees, and rising 

behind, a mist-swathed hint of Taj that 

turns from orange to apricot to lychee 

as the sun rises. Get your snaps, then 

get out of Agra. 

DAYS 6-7: JAIPUR 

It’s a five-hour drive west to the Pink 

City of Jaipur: an exemplar of selfordering 

chaos that’s part traffic jam, 

part Bollywood extravaganza and 

part Arabian Nights. You’ll see the 

pink Palace of Winds (from where the 

Maharajah’s harem could observe the 

life of the city without being seen); 

the exquisite City Palace (allow at 

least half a day to explore its gardens, 

galleries, courtyards and museums); 

the extraordinary collection of giant 

astronomical instruments at the 

Jantar Mantar observatory; and, a 

half-hour’s drive out of town, the 

Disneyesque Amber Fort. Don’t forget 

to try Jaipur’s incandescent speciality, 

laal maas. It’s made from mutton, 

ghee, yoghurt and an extraordinary 

amount of chillies. 


The Ganges river and 

Varanasi at sunrise 

THE SPIRITUAL VOYAGE 

Cruising the Ganges 

Descending rapidly from the icy peaks 

of the Himalayas before winding 

across the fertile floodplain to the Bay 

of Bengal, the Ganges is India’s most 

sacred river. Here and there its banks 

thrum with cities, which slowly fade to 

long expanses of emptiness. 

While tourists are rarely seen in these 

remote parts, in recent years, several 

cruises have launched, running mainly 

from Kolkata to Varanasi (sometimes 

on to Sundarbans National Park). 

Each delivers a fascinating snapshot 

of rural river life: women in sun-bright 

saris bathing by the banks, men 

vigorously scrubbing away their sins, 

and fishermen hauling in their nets. 

Villagers worship at terracotta temples 

squeezed in beside other remnants of 

the past: abandoned mosques, Mughal 

mausoleums and crumbling British 

palaces. (Find a cruise that stops at the 

Hazarduari Palace in Murshidabad, and 

you’ll get to see the world’s secondlargest 

chandelier.) 

Days on board unspool over fiery 

Bengali delicacies, such as catfish 

curry, and swapping stories with fellow 

passengers, a 30-strong crowd of 

intelligent, adventurous Europeans 

who have seen the Golden Triangle and 

now want something earthier. From 

its serene platform you can take in the 

messy vitality on the riverbanks as far 

as Varanasi. Here Hindus cremate the 

deceased by the Ganges, an intimate 

ritual, as corpses are cleansed, flames 

licking flesh on funeral pyres – all in 

plain sight. Feral pi-dogs, wild cows, 

holy sadhus and street children 

wander among the cinders. But peace 

descends each evening as worshippers 

float diyas – candle-holders made 

of dried leaves, containing marigold 

petals – towards the horizon, as 

an offering. 


Colourful shacks on 

Vagator Beach 

THE HIPPIE-CHIC 

Beach retreat 

GLAM GOA 

Look in the wrong places and Goa is 

going, going, gone: scarred by cheap 

tourism, raves and flatpack hotels. 

But north and south of the offending 

bits (Calangute, Candolim), the boho 

vibe that pinned it to the map in the 

’60s is alive, and lazing over nicely 

spiced prawns… 

DAY ONE 

Northwards first: Vagator Beach 

parties with panache at W Goa, a 

good-looking big-brand resort on a 

palmy headland. It’ll suit first-timers 

who want exotic flair (ethnic-print 

fabrics, searing curries, flamboyant 

crowds from Mumbai and Delhi) with 

international airbrushing (white décor, 

gentle clubby sounds). Try its Rock 

Pool bar, overlooking strawberry-pink 

horizons. Take a rickshaw south to 

neighbouring Anjuna for its sprawling 

flea market, a crucial hippie-Goa stop. 

DAY TWO 

Get into Goa’s boho-chic vibe on 

the virgin sands of Ashwem Beach, 

15km north along roads lined with tall 

palms. It’s the tranquil antithesis of 

Vagator and Anjuna, with rudimentary 

loungers staked out by elegant 

French, Russian and Italian bronzers. 

There’s a Jade Jagger jewellery kiosk 

and a sand-between-the-toes café, La 

Plage, for lazy seafood lunches. It has 

simple rooms, too. 

DAY THREE 

Switch lodgings to Ahilya by the Sea, 

further south: a nine-room retreat 

with antiques, pools and lawns for 

candlelit shellfish dinners. Across the 

water, the Goan capital, Panaji, is a 

must: see the Portuguese churches 

of Old Goa behind warped ebony 

doors, then drink coffee at a 

tiled café in the European-feel 

Fontainhas quarter. 

DAY FOUR 

Head inland, beyond the dewy hill 

flanks of the Western Ghats. At 

Ponda, snap the slurries of weird fish 

in the Saturday market. Swim 

in the cool Dudhsagar Falls, 60km 

inland. Then wander around 

Braganza House in Chandor: a 

mansion museum (free entry, 

tips welcome) full of Portuguese 

porcelain and antiques amassed 

by the ancestors of its now-moreimpecunious 

owners. 

DAY FIVE 

Take a car-trawl of the beachy south, 

almost desert-island-remote in parts. 

If you find the parasols and lunch 

shacks of Palolem and Agonda too 

lively, hit the Cola Beach tented 

resort for lunch (or a few nights) and 

you could be back in the Goa of the 

’60s: hammocks, yoga, whispering 

shallows and solitude. 



PEAK ADVENTURE 

The Himalayas 

In the country’s mountainous 

northernmost reaches, you’ll 

discover a whole different India 

– high-altitude and spiritual, 

stalked by snow leopards. 

DAYS 1-2: AMRITSAR, PUNJAB 

Punjab’s iconic city, Amritsar, is a 

thrilling starting point, home to one 

of India’s most spectacular sites: the 

shimmering Golden Temple, Sikhism’s 

holiest shrine. There’s also a bubbling 

food scene (find freshly baked 

kulcha, leavened flatbread cooked 

in a tandoor oven) in the colourful 

market, as well as the Partition 

Museum, documenting the division 

of this region between India and 

Pakistan in 1947. Don’t miss the daily 

Wagah border ceremony, involving a 

Bollywood-style dance-off (4.15pm in 

winter; 5.15pm summer). 

wild Eden of magnificent mountains, 

cobalt rivers and plunging ravines. 

Trek through deep snow with local 

trackers during the day, and bed down 

at night in a traditional homestay. 

DAYS 10-11: NUBRA 

VALLEY, LADAKH 

A chunk of the ancient Silk Route 

with the highest drivable pass in the 

world, the astonishing Nubra Valley 

will make you gasp and gasp again: 

rolling patchwork fields, crystal-clear 

streams, carpets of wild lavender and 

desert sand dunes you can traverse by 

camel. Camp nearby at Turtuk (the last 

Indian outpost on the Pakistan border) 

to immerse yourself in Balti culture, with 

its distinct way of living, local language 

and exuberant traditional dress. 

DAYS 12-14: SRINAGAR, KASHMIR 

Cross the pointed mountains to 

Srinagar, Kashmir’s summer capital. 

Framed by pristine alpine scenery, 

beautiful Dal Lake is the star of 

the show. Stay on evocative 

houseboat Sukoon, moored on the 

lake. And for transport? The multicoloured, 

gondola-like shikaras will 

take you past the floating flower 

markets and into the city centre, 

dotted with historic mosques. 

However, it’s important to follow 

official travel guidelines before 

visiting the area. 

A lush valley in Leh 

DAYS 3-4: DHARAMSALA, 

HIMACHAL PRADESH 

Home to the Dalai Lama (normally in 

residence in May – check at dalailama. 

com), this quaint hill station is 

surrounded by cedar forests in the 

Himalayan foothills, and has a rich 

Tibetan feel. Crimson-robed monks 

meander to monasteries, plaintive 

Buddhist chants fill the air and a 

muddle of small streets overflow with 

shops selling handicrafts. 

Neptune 

DAYS 5-6: LEH, LADAKH 

With jagged peaks and blindingly 

blue sky, Ladakh’s landscape feels 

as mythical as Narnia. Strung with 

prayer flags whipping in the wind, 

the capital, Leh, is a laid-back 

frontier town with an ancient palace, 

whitewashed stupas and a thronging 

bazaar that fans out into barley fields. 

The Ultimate Travelling Camp at the 

base of Thiksey Monastery is pricey, 

but overwhelmingly peaceful. 

DAYS 7-9: HEMIS 

NATIONAL PARK, LADAKH 

You’re here to spy one of the world’s 

biggest recluses – the powerful and 

elegant snow leopard. Around 200 

of them live in Hemis National Park, a 


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THE EMERGING REGION 

A Tamil 

Nadu trail 

Ratatouille laced with olive oil, 

cheese as pungent as Napoleon’s 

boot, and ochre-washed buildings 

bursting with bougainvillea… It’s all 

gloriously French Med. But, wait: 

what’s with the rickshaws and the 

sweet scent of something decidedly 

un-French: tamarind? Coconut? 

More to the point, why is that guy 

with the henna-red beard intent on 

cleaning your ears with a stick? 

The tour guides will tell you that 

former French colony Pondicherry is a 

corner of India that is forever France, 

but that’s doing this city pit stop, in the 

state of Tamil Nadu, a disservice. Sure, 

get your fix of the French Quarter’s 

cobblestone streets and froufrou 

architecture: stick around the quadrant 

of Dumas, Romain Rolland, Suffren and 

La Bourdonnais streets (try the flaky 

pain au chocolat at Suffren’s Café de 

Arts). But it’s the Tamil touches seen 

everywhere in this sultry city that’ll whet 

your appetite for the fun to come: the 

temple-going hustle, the grey-painted 

ashrams disgorging the faithful; the 

glass and steel of go-getting young 

India. It’s a leisurely intro to this rising 

star southern state. To modern India, 

Tamil Nadu is the keeper of the flame 

for ancient culture. Indian classical 

dance and music originated here and 

lives on at Chennai’s atmospheric 

Madras Musical Academy, while 

religious rites are a living (and hollering) 

thing. It’s the kind of place to head for, 

once you’ve crossed crowd-pleasing 

Rajasthan and easy Kerala off your 

list. Don’t be fooled into thinking you 

need to do the entire tour-operatortouted 

‘temple trail’ – a two-week 

slog around Thanjavur (Tanjore) and 

boulder-dotted Tiruchirappalli (Trichy), 

with an unsavoury ‘holy dip’ in the sea 

at Dhanushkodi. But do make time 

for Madurai, where deity-covered 

gopurams (ornate temple towers) loom 

over the potash-painted faces of tens 

of thousands of Hindu pilgrims. They 

cram into the temple of the ‘fish-eyed 

goddess’, Meenakshi, but you’ll find 

more breathing space at Alagar Kovil 

temple, with its serene green gardens. 

After Madurai, move along the coast 

to Mahabalipuram. Backpackers 

come here for the barefoot charm, 

sightseers for the art. From the epic 

open-air rock reliefs dating back to 

the Middle Ages (the 29m Descent of 

the Ganges is most impressive) to the 

narrow alleyways tap-tapping with 

craftsmen’s chisels on stone (Rajan at 

Rolling Stones will ship your souvenir 

home for a snip), stone sculpting has 

been in this town’s DNA for centuries. 

Now leave these hot, dusty plains for 

the lush Western Ghats – formed of the 

soaring Nilgiri Hills in the north and the 

curvaceous Palanis, Cardamoms and 

Anaimalia to the south. It’s along this 

green stretch that the British located 

some of their prettiest hill stations – 

Ooty is the famous one, with its Gothic 

red-brick piles and immaculate gardens; 

but the forest hiking trails near laid-back 

Kodaikanal hill station are a ravishing 

way to explore the area. In this region, 

all roads lead to Chennai. The city’s 

heat and choc-abloc Grand Trunk Road 

can overwhelm fresh-from-the-plane 

newbies – but en route home, with 

new ‘India eyes’, you’ll see the best in 

this sleepless metropolis. Start with 

a fiery thali – those famous all-in-one 

curry feasts served on a banana leaf 

– then nose around wood-panelled 

Raj-era clubs such as the Madras, 

where loafers and moustaches still rule. 

Meanwhile, in the rising gastro-hub 

simmering around Cathedral Road in 

the Nungambakkam neighbourhood, 

and in lively Besant Nagar, you’ll find 

hip young Chennai sipping the local 

social lubricant and dancing. You’ll leave 

town with plenty of southern spirit. 

The Cave Temples of 

Mahabalipuram 


THE WILDLIFE WONDER 

Tigers in the wild 

It’s a few minutes after dawn 

at Bandhavgarh National Park, 

a sprawling wilderness 800km 

southeast of Delhi, in Madhya 

Pradesh. You’re sitting, shivering, 

in a line of open-topped Jeeps at 

the park gates. Officials are waving 

bits of paper and pocketing cash 

here and there as they decide which 

of the Forest Department’s guides 

will accompany which vehicle. 

Each has an assigned route, and 

if you get the wrong one, you’ll 

probably see some deer – maybe 

an owl. Get the right one, though, 

and you might see a tiger. 

Welcome to India’s big-cat 

lottery. India has 50 tiger reserves 

of this kind – between them, they’re 

home to about 2,225 of the beasts. 

Bandhavgarh is one of the best, 

with an estimated 70 tigers, but 

finding them isn’t easy. Vehicles are 

allowed in twice a day: for five hours 

at dawn and three in the afternoon. 

Game drives involve following rutted 

tracks through dense, dry sal forest, 

over rocky hills, past lakes and 

ancient ruins, eyes straining to spot 

a predator designed to be invisible. 

Radios are banned, but the 

guides use their mobiles to keep 

in contact and if one gets lucky, 

he’ll share the intel with his mates. 

But getting lucky is so rare that to 

pin your hopes on actually seeing 

a tiger is to set yourself up for 

almost certain disappointment. 

Guides will emphasise the 

importance of focusing on the 

birdlife, the wild dogs, the deer and 

the incredible scenery. But deep 

down, we’re all praying for tigers. 

Sometimes, those prayers are 

answered. You follow the vultures 

and spot a tigress and her cubs 

on a kill. You round a bend to find 

a male the size of a small horse 

standing in the road. Your first 

instinct is to pull out a camera. Don’t 

do it. Your hands will be shaking 

and the shots will be rubbish; 

burn the image into your memory 

instead. Look at the whiskers, the 

enormous paws, the rippling fur 

and big teeth. Finally, look into 

its amber eyes, meeting a deeply 

indifferent gaze – one that says 

you’re nothing but meat in too much 

packaging. Study every detail of this 

desperately endangered predator. 

Your grandchildren may never 

see one in the wild, and you need 

to be able to describe it to them. 


A houseboat floats on the 

backwaters of Kerala 

THE RURAL CRUISE 

Kerala’s backwaters 

This state’s name means ‘land of 

the coconut’, and if that conjures 

up images of palms on white-sand 

beaches, you’re bang on. A serene 

sliver on India’s southwest coast, 

it has beaches, then backwaters. 

The noise and crowds that 

dominate India dissipate here, 

making this the obvious spot 

for post-tour decompression. 

DAY 1 KOCHI 

India’s oldest European settlement 

is a crumbling mess of Portuguese, 

Dutch, Chinese and British influences. 

A spice port in its heyday, it’s now 

simply a memento of an older India. 

Take in the ornate Mattancherry 

Palace; the spice warehouses on Jew 

Town Road; and the cantilevered 

Chinese fishing nets along River Road. 

Most tour operators use Kochi as an 

overnight base – the Old Courtyard 

Hotel is the handsomest crashpad 

– before the real joys of Kerala, so 

enjoy a stroll and an early night. 

DAYS 2-3 HEAD FOR THE HILLS 

Four hours’ drive east lies the hill 

station of Munnar, heart of South 

India’s tea trade. Top priority here is 

to find a base somewhere suitably EM 

Forster – perhaps the Windermere 

Estate, a plantation house surrounded 

by tea terraces – from which to hike the 

Letchmi Hills, visiting the tea fields. 

DAY 4-5 PERIYAR 

Settle in on a bamboo-raft cruise 

along the shores of Periyar Lake, 

watching out for elephants, deer, 

otters and the great pied hornbill. 

Stay at the Spice Villagein Thekkady, 

in low, thatched cottages clustered 

around an old plantation house. 

DAY 6: THE BACKWATERS 

Lazing on the bow of an Alappuzha 

(formerly Alleppey) houseboat, 

watching coconut palms reflected in 

the still waters, and waving to locals 

as you drift by, is one of the world’s 

most satisfying travel experiences. 

Kerala’s famed houseboats are 

converted rice barges staffed by a 

skipper, first mate and cook. Once 

aboard, this is your private cruise ship 

for 24 glorious hours. A good captain 

will make sure you end up on a westfacing 

lake in time to watch the sun 

set it ablaze. 

DAYS 7-10 BEACH LAZING 

Kovalam is Kerala’s beachy side – 

but don’t expect the party set-up 

of Goa. Here you’ll find beaches 

peppered with temples; beaches 

frequented by cows; and beaches 

where fishermen call you over to 

help haul in their catch. It’s also the 

best place to try Kerala’s seafoodcentric 

cuisine – prawn masalas; 

spiced-and-fried fish; and creamy 

mappas (coconut-milk-based) 

curries. Rooms cost from as little 

as $9 a night, but if you’re looking 

for luxury, Niraamaya is a collection 

of polished-dark-wood cottages 

beside two all-but-private beaches. 

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 



THE FAR-FLUNG OASIS 

Tranquil Tea Country 

A carpet of cloud obscures the valley, 

glowing peach at dawn. Bamboo and 

pine trees huddle on the hillsides, 

from where cuckoos call out through 

the stillness. As the sun rises, the 

Himalayas emerge through the haze: 

jagged and glistening with snow. 

Sipping from a steaming cup of clear 

tea, made from the earliest buds and 

fledgling leaves, you’ll experience few 

calmer Indian mornings than this. 

Once a summer retreat for the 

officers of the British Raj, Darjeeling 

is now a year-round favourite for 

Indian families on weekend breaks. 

They come to the green pastures of 

this far-northeastern slice to taste tea, 

shop for Tibetan trinkets, and ride the 

famous Toy Train, though you’d likely 

stop off only on a wider tour of this 

northeast corner – perhaps taking in 

Sikkim, or Kolkata. Colonial-era lodges 

still serve you tea on your veranda as 

you inhale the scent of magnolias. But 

Darjeeling town is now a patchwork of 

modern hotels, shops and cafés flung 

across the slopes, with a distinctly 

Indian slant. Here, you’re more likely to 

find hot samosas than scones for sale 

in the alleys strung with prayer flags. 

Stay on a tea plantation and allow 

two to three days to get a feel for the 

town. For four-postered luxury, book 

into genteel Glenburn Tea Estate. 

Established in 1859, it still produces 

150,000kg of tea per year – and 

encourages you to pick the leaves 

alongside working women, waistdeep 

in the shrubs, baskets strapped 

across heads. Follow the leaves as 

they’re withered, rolled, dried, sorted 

and graded, then learn how to taste 

that delicate infusion properly – by 

slurping it in through your teeth. 

If you’d like to try some home 

cooking, you can volunteer on 

the Makaibari Tea Estate and stay 

with a family in one of its seven 

villages. Darjeeling’s high-altitude 

hotels have no central heating, so 

bring a hot-water bottle for bed, 

and layer up on chillier nights. 

On your second or third morning, 

hire a shared 4WD from Chowk 

Bazaar to Tiger Hill to watch the 4am 

sunrise over Mounts Kanchenjunga 

and Everest, where vendors mill 

about serving tea as the sun tints 

the peaks. Head to Darjeeling town’s 

Bhutia Busty Gompa monastery, 

run by Tibetan refugee monks; later, 

trawl the town’s bazaars for Nepalese 

jewellery and Kashmiri shawls, 

before heading to Nathmulls on the 

mall for a slab of lemon cake and a 

glass of its ‘Champagne of teas’. 

A Darjeeling village surrounded 

by lush forest 


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FLORENCE 

fell in love with Florence a very 

long time ago. It was my first 

Italian city, all pantiled domes, 

church bells at dawn, Puccini in 

piazzas and swooning maidens. 

I’d just seen A Room with a View; 

and the fabled città of the Medicis, 

Michelangelo and Merchant Ivory 

really did deliver a mix of monumental 

architecture and small-town Tuscan 

bottegas. I’d arrived clutching my Interrail 

card, and the whole place looked so 

like the film. True, the piazzas weren’t 

thronged with tight-waisted extras 

twirling parasols, but it was definitely 

the yearning, dark, deeply atmospheric 

city of EM Forster’s Lucy Honeychurch. 

I lost that Florence in subsequent years. 

The home of Botticelli and Brunelleschi 

has become too popular for its own good 

– in summertime, at least, the streets 

around the Uffizi and Ponte Vecchio are 

a seething gridlock. That, I eventually 

realised, was precisely the problem: I 

was only in Tuscany in July and August. I 

was seeking out the whisper of nostalgia 

at the noisiest time of year. So, of late, 

I’ve begun visiting in November or 

December, just as the festive decorations 

are going up and the rain’s coming down. 

My Florence is a damp, dark, misty 

place, but boy, it’s a magical one, too. 

A FOGGY 

FRIDAY MORNING 

At 6am, make the most of those empty 

streets with a brisk walk. In Piazza della 

Signoria, outside the Medicis’ 14thcentury 

palace, the café chairs are still 

stacked and chained, and there’s a pigeon 

sleeping on the head of David – a replica 

of Michelangelo’s bug-eyed 16th-century 

masterpiece, relocated to the Galleria 

dell’Accademia. Head on down to the Arno. 

The open-sided Mercato del Porcellino 

(mercatodelporcellino.it) stands empty. 

Only the Porcellino itself shines in the 

gloom – this bronze statue of a wild boar 

gets its snout rubbed so often (for luck) 

that its nostrils glow. By the river, the 

street lamps that line the embankments 

are balls of pale-orange light afloat in 

the mist. The Ponte Vecchio is empty, its 

gold and silversmith shops barricaded 

behind shutters and bars that would deter 

a besieging army. You’re alone, save for 

maybe a one-man delivery van puttering 

past. The Arno flows, black and silent. 

Outside the shuttered Picteau Lounge, 

over on the Oltrarno side of the river, 

there’s a small terrace that wins handsdown 

for the best view in Florence, 

especially as the sky above the bridge 

breaks into patches of deep-blue between 

the dark retreating clouds. Wander 

around Oltrarno and you’re in the part 


FLORENCE 

of the city where Florentines live. Corner 

shops are shutting up in the darkness, 

as crates of produce are pulled inside. 

Cafés are noisily taking out the empties. 

For an atmospheric first day, walk 

down the long Borgo Pinti street, past 

sooty palazzi that rise, canyon-like, 

either side. The 19th-century English 

Cemetery is at the far end, amid a whirl 

of traffic. Nicknamed The Isle of the 

Dead, it inspired Swiss artist Arnold 

Böcklin (whose baby daughter was buried 

here) to paint his celebrated picture of 

the same name. With its cypresses and 

Neo-Gothic tombs, it’s a ghostly world. 

The poet Walter Savage Landor, the 

novelist Fanny Trollope and the American 

abolitionist Theodore Parker were all 

interred here, as was the pre-Raphaelite 

model Fanny Waugh, who designed 

her own tomb on her death-bed. Her 

husband, William Holman Hunt, then 

sculpted it. Have your camera to hand 

for marble statues of desolate widows, 

life-sized grim reapers and tearful angels 

looming up at you out of the gloom. 

You’ll need something life-enhancing 

now, so break for lunch. Take the C3 

bus back to Ponte Vecchio and walk 

along the Arno to Il Borro (big brother 

of the Dubai outpost). Under frescoed 

ceilings, a sole waiter slices meat on one 

of those circular machines, with all the 

tenderness of a lover. Try lampredotto, 

a Florentine street eat of slow-cooked 

tripe served on a bun with spicy tomato 

sauce and salsa verde. It’s a seasonal 

treat: for me, another of the great joys 

of Florence in autumn or early winter. 

Sated, go and see the Museo Salvatore 

Ferragamo nearby, resplendent in its 

13th-century palazzo. It’s filled with 

footwear created by the Florentine 

shoemaker for Hollywood stars. You may 

catch an American couple, ostensibly in 

Florence for the Uffizi, gasp in delight to 

see footwear ‘Creato per Joan Crawford’, 

‘Creato per Rudolph Valentino’ and 

‘Creato per Mary Pickford’. Perhaps you’ll 

follow the pair, past engineers stringing 

up the first Christmas lights against a 

darkening sky, into Piazza di Santa Trinita. 

They shiver and pull their coats closer. 

California must seem a warm world away. 

End up at Irene, the restaurant of the 

flamboyant Savoy Hotel. Its afternoon tea 

is modern – dainty waiters set individual 

timers running for each brew – but the 

view is timeless as Piazza della Repubblica 

fills up with café society and children 

in scarves begging to be allowed on the 

gaudily restored, brightly lit Victorian 

carousel. You may exit the Savoy to a 

vicious little spatter of rain across the 

piazza as carols break out from the 

other side: a visiting choir from some 

Canadian University, serenading the 

city on their way to the Duomo. Tonight, 

Christmas has come early to Florence. 

A SATURDAY EVENING OUT 

Saturdays are always busy – after dark 

there are drinks to be had and dinner to 

be found. A big ’50s Martini sign glows red 

above Via Roma as dusk settles. Take your 

umbrella for a 6pm stroll, when the traffic 

starts to ease. Along the Arno they’re 

roasting chestnuts, brought down from 

groves in the hills – on a damp autumn 

day the whole city can smell of them. It’s 

tradition to buy a bag for the Florentine 

passeggiata, the late-pm walk downtown. 

Crossing to the Oltrarno side, look 

back over the river and you’ll see the 

entire Renaissance city lit up. The tower 

of Palazzo Vecchio stretches above it all, 

and the huge picture-windows of the 

The Ponte Vecchio in 

Florence, Tuscany 

‘THIS IS WHAT I LOVE ABOUT 

FLORENCE. YOU NEEDN’T STRAY FAR 

TO ENCOUNTER A MUCH QUIRKIER 

CITY THAN THE CROWDS FIND 

AROUND PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA’ 

Uffizi Gallery are reflected in the river as 

the last visitors are shepherded out. The 

stillness of the scene is broken by a lone 

oarsman sculling in the slow-flowing 

Arno, having left it very late to get home. 

There is plenty of entertainment to 

be had – now Florence has to try a bit 

harder to entice people out of their homes 

and cosy hotels. At the end of October, 

the festival of Florence Creativity runs 

daily in the sturdy Fortezza da Basso, 

which once defended the city walls. Just 

about every activity has a stand here: 

stencilling, papier-mâché, bookbinding, 

scrapbooking, quilting. Personally, I’m 

a sucker for music – the kind found at 

Teatro del Sale, a music hall near Piazza 

Santa Croce. It’s open most nights for a 

help-yourself supper – pans of risotto 

with porcini mushrooms, dishes of 

beetroot salad – served from trestle tables 

along with good, basic Tuscan wine. The 

act might be a Swiss yodeller, or Maria 

Cassi, wife of the patron and a gloriously 

full-throated cabaret artiste. It’s all huge 

noisy fun and full of locals who never 

take their coats off. Last time I was here, 

next to me was a grande dame; tucked 

under her cloak was the tiniest of dogs, 


Clockwise from top left: Preparing 

a perfect pizza; a bronze replica of 

Michelangelo's David in Piazzale 

Michelangelo; the beautiful city streets 

by night; roasted chestnuts; festive 

lights in Florence 


FLORENCE 

This image: Santa Maria 

del Fiore cathedral 

Opposite: The Ponte 

Vecchio bridge arches 

over the Arno River 

which she fed discreetly with titbits. 

Amble back to the centre along 

Via Giuseppe Verdi, the bohemian 

quarter, home to cafés including Pino’s 

Sandwiches and Viktoria Lounge Bar: 

little late-night windows of luminescence. 

Filistrucchi, opposite Pino’s, is a 

small shop selling theatrical wigs and 

cosmetic hairpieces. You’d never guess 

it was founded in 1720 and is the oldest 

continuously operating store in the city. 

A plaque on its first floor marks where 

the flood of 1966 reached. Filistrucchi 

took a few days off that November. 

This is what I love about Florence. You 

needn’t stray far to encounter a much 

quirkier city than the crowds find around 

Piazza della Signoria. Once, coming back 

from Teatro del Sale, near the Dante 

Museum, I came across the tiny chapel of 

San Martino Vescovo, doors open, lights 

blazing. An offertory box on the outside 

receives funds to help the poor, as it 

has for centuries (St Martin hacked his 

cloak in two to clothe a beggar). Wander 

in, and you’ll probably have the utterly 

beautiful medieval frescoes depicting 

the life of the saint all to yourself. 

Nearer the Duomo, Christmas 

window displays start to go up around 

Thanksgiving, poking fun at the city: 

think Botticelli’s Venus in a cocktail 

dress. Wet pavements mirror the white 

lights looped across silent streets. 

Shops, such as the department store 

Rinascente, have great rivers of light 

cascading down their exterior. 

Last thing, circle Brunelleschi’s Duomo 

and its Baptistry. Its white, green and 

pink marble lit dramatically against 

a pitch-black sky, it’s unforgettable, 

possibly more beautiful than by day. 

OUT TO SUNDAY LUNCH 

At last the sun comes out. Assuage that 

mournful last-day feeling by rooting out 

a good lunch and the best of Florence’s 

museums. JK Place is my favourite: a 

boutique hotel on peaceful Piazza di Santa 

Maria Novella. Inside is dense with comfy 

sofas, room perfumes and wealthy New 

Yorkers. The food is international with a 

Tuscan twist. One time I saw them stuff 

a great turkey for their American guests 

at Thanksgiving – that pumpkin and 

cornmeal are common to both culinary 

cultures certainly helped the fusion. 

Or you might idle over this year’s 

extra-virgin olive oil and bruschetta at 

Trattoria 13 Gobbi, in a backstreet behind 

the French Cultural Institute. Here you’ll 

find more Florentines than tourists. It’s 

a warm little space of exposed brick and 

empty bottles stacked like trophies. Go 

for classic Tuscan: maybe spaghetti with 

sea urchin, or grilled beef with roasted 

potatoes. The Florentines are in relaxed 

mood before the great tourist onslaught 

of Christmas. The women wear furs and 

air-kiss as they arrive with shopping, 

the men in dark coats discuss politics, 

while drinking very, very slowly. 

The Uffizi is one of the must-see 

European art galleries, of course, 

especially if you like the Renaissance. 

In summer it’s packed, especially in 

front of Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus, 

the serene goddess wafting to shore 

on a giant scallop shell. But November 

and December are two of the quietest 

months, and Sundays are generally 

not at all crowded. On the second floor 

there are soffitti (ceiling) portraits of 

European royalty, including Henry VIII, 

Anna Bolena and Maria Stuarda. 

Perhaps you’d like a David hunt? 

You’ve seen him reproduced outside 

Palazzo Vecchio. You’ve spotted him 

graffiti’d, Banksy-style, in shorts and ‘I 

Love Florence’ T-shirt, mobile phone in 

hand. Now find the real thing at Galleria 

dell’Accademia. First, a lovely stroll 

north, passing Palazzo Medici Ricordi 

and Palazzo Bartolo Corbini, the vines 

over them turning red and yellow as 

incipient frosts nip at the roots. The 

statue of David (1504) that once stood 

in Piazza della Signoria has been in the 

Accademia since 1873. Coming faceto-face 

with his five-metre-tall bulk 

never disappoints, even if it’s actually 

face-to-big toe (he’s on a plinth). All 

that detail in marble – down to the 

veins in his hands and feet – is more 

extraordinary when you realise that 

Michelangelo thought it was bound 

for the roofline of the Duomo. Only 

God – and curious pigeons – would 

have recognised the phenomenal 

artistry. And at this time of year you 

can go right up to him, all but alone. 

Soon it will be time to get a taxi to 

the airport, so step out into Piazza 

della Santissima Annunziata, turning 

back for a final view of the Duomo. 

The last time I was at the Accademia I 

came out to find the rain had stopped 

and left the most complete rainbow 

arching over the city. Such is the joy of 

low-season Florence: all the light in the 

darkness, and the sudden unexpected 

surprises – simple moments of beauty 

in a great, silent, tourist-free city. 



Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 



XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

This page: A girl cradles a 

vibrant parrot 

Opposite: A traditional 

wooden tongkang floats 

in the waters at sunrise 


CAMBODIA 

From lost temples to serene villages and balmy beaches, Cambodia is 

cheap and easy to explore, finds Alex Robinson, on a comfy new train 

line through the historic heart of the country 

fter a few minutes my eyes adjusted to the darkness. Behind 

me, the cave entrance was a glowing mouth framed by 

jagged rocks and gleaming tangles of green foliage. In front, 

worn steps stretched down into the gloom and the cave floor 

30 metres below. In the half-light I could just about make out 

something set against the back wall: a hulking shape like a giant bear, and I 

was alone. My mouth dried and I froze for a moment, before remembering 

that there are no bears in Kampot. As I walked on, the shape became 

clearer. I could see a brick arch and a gabled roof. It was a temple. 

I traced its elegant lines upwards. And gasped. The building was 

smothered by what looked like ectoplasm oozing from the ancient rocky 

walls as if it were being eaten, amoeba-like, by the mountain. Then I 

heard the drip-drip of water echoing through the cavern – through the 

centuries, back to the time when the temple was abandoned. It wasn’t 

ectoplasm. It was stalactites and flowstone – formed, as it sounds, by 

water flowing down. 

This was the Cambodia I loved – the Lara Croft lost tombs, the 

crumbling temples. It’s the Cambodia everyone fantasises about: a 

bucket-list destination of golden light, ethereal ruins, peaceful Buddhas, 

tangled vines. Then there are the islands, fringed with flour-fine beaches; 

serene villages, mango-filled markets and rolling rice paddies. Like 

Thailand… but 20 years ago. 


CAMBODIA 

Frustratingly, though, getting 

anywhere in Cambodia is a step-backin-time 

experience, too. It’s a hassle. 

The roads are terrible, the journeys a 

crash and bump. So when I learnt of a 

new railway line running through the 

historic heart of the country, right down 

to the balmy beaches of its south coast, 

I leapt at the chance to visit again. This 

would be my seventh trip to Cambodia, 

but my first ever by train. 

On the Cambodia railway website, 

I plotted my fantasy route of about 

250km. It began in bustling Phnom 

Penh, then click-clacked past fields of 

buffaloes to Takeo, where the ancient 

temples are older than Angkor Wat. I’d 

move on to sleepy French colonial town 

Kampot, fragrant with pepper blossom 

and lemongrass, and eat curried crab 

on the coast at Kep. Journey’s end was 

Sihanoukville on the Gulf of Thailand, 

gateway to beaches lined with palms. 

The next morning I sat in airconditioned 

comfort watching Phnom 

Penh city slip by like a video on mute: 

a cluster of shiny skyscrapers, the 

sluggish brown of the Mekong River, 

level crossings snarling with mopeds… 

Then, out of the blue, a smartly dressed 

conductor brought me a perfumed 

towel, coffee and a breakfast menu. 

Minutes later came paddy fields 

and peace. 

My first stop was Takeo, two hours 

south – a sleepy provincial capital as big 

as a village, among pretty canals and 

lakes. I spent the morning wandering 

through the market, where mangoes 

were piled alongside clucking chickens 

in wicker baskets, bags of Siamese 

fighting fish and buckets of slippery 

eels. I wondered why everyone was 

staring at me until the receptionist 

at my hotel told me I was the only 

foreigner in town. 

"The new train will bring more people: 

Takeo is the cradle of Cambodian 

civilisation," she assured me, proudly. 

"The Khmer empire began here, with 

Funan kingdom. Angkor Wat came later." 

She arranged for a local taxi driver 

and a boatman to show me the sights 

of ancient Funan. Later that afternoon 

I heaved my way up steep steps to the 

summit of Chisor mountain, where 

King Suryavarman I built a ceremonial 

centre in the 11th century. Sweating 

‘ 

AS THE SUN SANK RED OVER 

THE PADDY FIELDS, I WAS ROCKED 

TO SLEEP BY THE SWAY OF THE 

RAILWAY CARRIAGES AND THE 

TICK-TOCK TAPPING OF 

THE TRACK 

’ 

from the climb, I looked for shade and 

found a gated courtyard strewn with 

ruined masonry, dotted with temple 

buildings. Their doors and lintels 

were carved with floral swirls – before 

Angkor, but unmistakably Khmer in 

their intricacy and delicate beauty. And 

there were no crowds. The only person 

I saw was an elderly fortuneteller, 

illuminated by a shaft of light and 

snoozing inside one of the buildings, 

next to a thousand-year-old statue. 

I heard chanting and followed it to a 

monastery, cresting the hill, and found 

novice monks in saffron robes sitting at 

old-fashioned school desks (complete 

with inkwells) reciting sutras as if they 

were saying their times tables. This was 

an Angkor temple as it used to be – the 

temple tranquillity and timeless beauty 

as yet undisturbed – and reachable, not 

by coach parties, but by train. 

Next morning, I took a gentle 

paddleboat ride through Takeo’s ancient 

klongs – canals cut by the Funan 

emperors – past huts where farmers in 

conical hats herded thousand-strong 

flocks of ducks. The canals became lakes, 

with trees distant in the haze on their 

far shores. Fishermen paddled in the 

shallows, securing the bamboo poles of 

barrier nets. Herons waded decorously 

through the weeds. Then, after a late 

lakeside lunch of fish curry, I caught the 

afternoon train south. As the sun sank 

red over the paddy fields, I was rocked 

into sleep by the sway of the railway 

carriages and the tick-tock tapping of 

the track. 

I was woken by the train shuddering 

to a halt in Kampot. Even though it 

was after 11pm, a man in his forties 

with a wispy moustache and a collared 

shirt was waiting for me with a placard 

and a warm smile. "Welcome to south 

Cambodia," he said with genuine 

enthusiasm and excellent English, 

grabbing my bag. "You must be tired." 

"Not really," I thought. I’ve never had 

so restful a Cambodian journey. 

Mr Try’s Toyota was as comfortable 

as a sofa. And the mattresses in the 

Rikitikitavi hotel were draped in 

Egyptian cotton. There was even a 

DVD library. If Takeo was still a relative 

unknown, Kampot was well-visited, a 

fact confirmed at breakfast: poached 

eggs and banana pancakes were on the 

menu and tourists plentiful (though 

they had come by bus on bumpy 

roads, I reflected smugly, not tranquil 

rail tracks). The view over French 

townhouses and a gently winding river 

was enchanting. This was Cambodia 

in comfort. 

Mr Try was waiting in reception. 

"Lots to see," he said with boundless 

enthusiasm. "Temples, beaches, fine 

food. And of course you will be itching to 

see the pepper plantations!" He looked 

almost hurt when I clearly had no idea 

what he was talking about. "Gourmet," 

he exclaimed. "Gourmet!" We floated 

along narrow roads past fields where 

women picked chillies, and buffaloes 

lazily chewed grass, white egrets 

perched on their backs. A narrow lane 

lined with what looked like poplars 

brought the car to a grand, terracottaroofed 

French mansion with Gallic 

gables decorated with Khmer swirling 

dragons. I opened the car door and was 

hit by a delicious, honeysuckle-sweet 

fragrance that had me drinking in the 

air. Mr Try was triumphant. 

"Pepper blossom! Gourmet!" 

And with the enthusiasm of a 

Bordeaux vintner he walked me through 

rows of pea-green pepper plants – some 

laden with tiny, star-like white flowers, 

others ripe with red pepper fruit, which 

he said would become peppercorns. 

Notices warned ‘Do not touch the 

pepper!’ as if it were a museum relic. 

"Isn’t pepper just pepper, Mr Try?" 

I asked. Again he looked appalled. 

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Clockwise from above left: 

Phnom Chhnork cave temple 

in Kampot; a tasting platter 

of Cambodian food; a view 

of Phnom Penh and its grand 

Royal Palace; a monk pauses 

for thought at Angkor Wat 


CAMBODIA 

Anthony Bourdain didn’t think so, 

nor did the great French chef Olivier 

Roellinger, both of whom he’d guided. 

I needed culinary education. So that 

evening Mr Try dropped me at Atelier 

– an elegant restaurant on the riverside 

with distressed brick walls and French 

chill-out music on the stereo. It was 

hip, and crisply dressed staff explained 

the provenance of each dish with 

hushed reverence. I ordered Cambodian 

tiger prawns in Kampot green pepper 

sauce. The prawns were tender and 

fresh; the sauce fiery, but fragrant, 

with a rich, almost fruity, vanilla-like 

aftertaste. I’d chosen my stops well: 

if Takeo was Angkor Wat without 

the crowds, then Kampot was Hanoi, 

without the hectic rush. 

I thanked Mr Try, who recommended 

that I take the fisherman’s boat the next 

day to Kep village. "Like the train. Very 

relaxing," he promised. "And don’t miss 

the Kep crabs." 

So, in the morning light, I sat 

comfortably on the wooden deck of 

a converted fishing boat – floating 

languidly past Kampot’s bustling 

fish market, where women dragged 

baskets of silvery needlefish off 

wooden launches. We reached Kep in 

an easy-going two hours’ sail. It was a 

tiny wooden hamlet – fringed with a 

long beach and backed by steep slopes 

swathed in rainforest, much of it 

protected as a National Park. I took a 

guided walk on paths winding through 

parakeet-filled trees. Macaque monkeys 

sat in the shade, meticulously grooming. 

Then I searched out Mr Try’s freshly 

caught crabs at a market stall – they cost 

just pennies. I ate them. Once again he 

was right. They were indeed delicious. 

Then it was time for the final train leg 

– to the coast at Sihanoukville. Getting 

there was as beautiful as it was relaxing. 

The train ambled past ponds of pink 

lotus flowers and village wedding parties 

tinkling with traditional Cambodian 

music, clattering across a broad brown 

river. It was all so much gentler than 

the dusty bus ride I’d have had to take 

before the railway ran. Then we climbed 

into the mountains – at cycling pace – 

before meandering through mangrove 

swamps and slipping into Sihanoukville: 

the end of the line. The town was straydog-scruffy 

– half dusty building site, 

half tawdry port. I was glad I was only 

passing through on my way to some of 

Southeast Asia’s finest beaches. A tuktuk 

brought me to a backpacker-packed 

boat for the first hint I’d had of the 

crowds I remembered from Angkor. But 

in less than an hour I was on Koh Rong 

island, walking barefoot on talc-soft 

white sand. The loudest sound on Sok 

San Beach was the lapping of the sea. 

My restful hotel was set in a 

coconut grove on a silver strand, 

where thatched-roof-meets-Mykonos 

bungalows sit right on the beach, facing 

the morning sun, which rose deep 

red over the aquamarine ocean. For 

three days I did nothing but laze in my 

hammock, paperback or drink in hand, 

pausing between chapters for a swim or 

a stroll to the nearby fisherman’s shack 

for spicy amok curry. 

On my final day I determined to be 

active and booked a snorkelling trip 

with a local fisherman, Chay. The boat 

chugged off in the early morning, the 

wind billowing the bright banners tied 

to the prow of Chay’s boat. A turquoise 

Saracen Bay, the main tourist 

beach on Koh Rong Samloem 

sea deepened into dark green, then inky 

blue. Chay pointed to a pod of dolphins a 

few hundred metres ahead – their dorsal 

fins cutting the ocean’s low swell. 

After 30 minutes we reached another 

islet, Koh Koun, slipped our masks on 

and slid into the water. A stingray sped 

from the sand, swam off and buried 

itself next to a coral head. Then Chay 

dived deeper, beckoned me to follow and 

pointed to a little rocky inlet. We swam 

closer. Entwined together were two tiny, 

golden sea horses. Dozens of others 

swam around. A turtle floated past, 

paused and drifted into the blue. 

When I pulled myself onto the boat 

gasping, Chay was waiting, holding out 

a cold drink. I put my feet up and sighed. 

It was the perfect end to the perfect trip. 

In a fortnight I’d seen what would have 

normally taken a month in Cambodia. 

On the next trip, there’d be no buses for 

me, now that I’d discovered rail – the 

real deal. 




XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

‘ 

ENTWINED TOGETHER 

WERE TWO TINY, GOLDEN SEA 

HORSES. DOZENS OF OTHERS 

SWAM AROUND. A TURTLE 

FLOATED PAST, PAUSED AND 

DRIFTED INTO THE BLUE 

’ 


CULTURE BOUND 

A treasure trove of ancient kingdoms, royal ruins and holy 

temples, Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle unveils historical wonders 

that are well worth a closer look, and now’s the best time to go 

SRI LANKA X WORLD TRAVELLER 

SIGIRIYA ROCK FORTRESS 

Sigiriya 

Thought to once be the epicentre of the 

short-lived kingdom of Kassapa, this 

UNESCO World Heritage Site awes with 

its dramatic splendour and deep-seated 

history. Weave through nooks and 

crannies that unravel centuries of age-old 

secrets and make your way to the western 

wall, which is particularly striking with its 

colourful frescoes and ancient paintings. 

When you finally reach the top, get ready 

for spellbinding views of the city. 

TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH 

Kandy 

Not only is this golden-roofed temple home 

to Sri Lanka’s most prized Buddhist relic – a 

tooth of the Buddha – but it's also home to 

stunning sculptures and paintings depicting 

Gautama Buddha. Time your visit during 

pooja (the time for offerings or prayers). The 

small ceremony of reverence is a must-see, 

with drummers and dancers weaving their 

way through the crowd. Considered a holy 

sanctuary, the temple garners deep respect, 

so modest dress is advised. 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM 

OF POLONNARUWA 

Polonnaruwa 

Built to mirror the once thriving citadel of 

the Polonnaruwa Kingdom, this museum 

offers a deep insight into the city’s 

ancient history. Reimagine a lost world by 

checking out the impressive scale models 

that illustrate the historical buildings that 

once existed in the kingdom. Alternatively, 

make a beeline for the wonderful selection 

of bronzes, including some outstanding 

Shiva statues. 

Photo: Sigiriya Rock Fortress 


long 

the 

weekend 

Vienna 

With glittering pine trees, 

clip-clopping Fiaker carriages and 

glowing street markets, Austria’s 

capital city is a winter wonderland 

that begs discovery 

This page: Schönbrunn 

Palace covered in snow 

Opposite: Vienna's stunning 

skyline with a peek of 

the roof of St. Stephen's 

Cathedral; 25hours Hotel 

Vienna (photo by Stephan 

Lemke for 25hours Hotels) 


THE LONG WEEKEND 

The imperial beauty of this enchanting city 

dazzles at any time of the year, but during the 

festive season it becomes almost cinematic with 

echoes of carols wafting from open windows and 

market stalls brimming with traditional fare. 

Built high and mighty on the riches of the 

powerful Habsburg monarchy, no city waltzes so 

effortlessly between regal splendour and contemporary 

flair as Vienna. The Austrian capital lures you with its 

clutch of baroque palaces, burgeoning arts scene and 

hallowed concert halls that uphold centuries of musical 

tradition. Add a drool-worthy coffeehouse culture, 

beautifully-landscaped parks sprawling along the 

banks of the Danube, and a first-class public transport 

system, and it's easy to understand why the city is an 

enduringly popular spot, filled with travellers from all 

corners of the Earth keen to discover its cultural charm. 

A city on the move, you can’t help but fall for its 

fairytale-like charm. And there’s no better time than 

this merry season to treat yourself to a ho ho holiday… 

LIGHTS OUT 

Catch some blissful zzz’s at 

these charming abodes 

Stay grand at Hotel 

Imperial: The fairest of 

them all, this neoclassical 

hotel drips with traditional 

Austrian splendour. 

Boasting Michelin-starred 

dining venues, lavishly 

decorated suites and 

immaculate white-glove 

service, it comes as no 

surprise that the exclusive 

hotel counts royalty among 

its regular guests. Take a trip 

back to the golden age and 

enjoy a majestic stay just 

a few minutes’ walk from 

crowd-pulling sights like the 

Albertina, the State Opera 

and Hofburg palace. 

Stay quirky at 25hours 

Hotel Vienna at 

MuseumsQuartier: A splash 

of colour bombards you 

the moment you set foot 

inside this circus-themed 

boutique hotel. Here, rooms 

are adorned with vivid 

murals, giant bench swings 

hang from the ceiling and 

signs shouting “We’re all 

mad here” are lined up 

along bustling hallways that 

would make Salvador Dali 

squeal with delight. 

Stay sweet at Hotel 

Sacher Wien: The heavenly 

Sachertorte at this familyrun 

luxury hotel is worth 

the stay alone. Chocolate 

lovers will find sweet 

bliss with bathtubs full of 

Sacher chocolate-scented 

toiletries, complimentary 

mini Sachertorte cubes and 

the one-of-its-kind Time to 

Chocolate collection of spa 

treatments. Throw historic 

ambience, elegantly-styled 

rooms and prime central 

location into the mix and 

you've got yourself a treat. 

Stay glamorous at Hotel 

Lamée: With its 1930s 

swagger, silver-screen flair 

and sweeping city views, this 

romantic hideaway adds a 

dash of Hollywood glamour 

to the heart of Vienna. An 

ode to Austrian-American 

starlet Hedy Lamarr, the 

luxury hotel’s rooms are diva 

delicious with gauzy fabrics, 

golden-kissed mirrors and 

marble-clad bathrooms. 

Off the 

rack 

BURGGASSE24 

No amount of glitter or 

sequins is deemed too 

much here. And with a 

name that reflects its 

address, this quirky gem 

isn't hard to find. Pick 

through stacks of fabulous 

pieces that can only be 

described as a wild mashup 

of vintage chic and 

mid-century mod accents. 

burggasse24.com 

EIGENSINNIG WIEN 

Sometimes less is more, 

and this artsy boutique 

proves just that with its 

avant-garde meets sleek 

minimalism aesthetic. 

Boasting bold and clean 

cut designs, the intriguing 

store draws those with an 

affinity for striking design. 

eigensinnig-wien.com 

WE BANDITS 

Tucked away in the buzzing 

7 th district, this edgy store 

blends South Korean styles 

with Scandinavian designs 

to create pieces that won’t 

break the bank. You're 

spoilt for choice with 59 

different brands to pick 

from. webandits.eu 


Baroque 

and 

beyond 

As you stroll through 

sumptuously frescoed 

halls replete with the 

iconic artworks of Klimt, 

Schiele and Kokoschka, 

it’s easy to understand 

why Belvedere Palace is 

considered the epitome of 

Viennese extravagance. 

Rising splendidly above 

perfectly-manicured 

gardens, the baroque 

masterpiece houses 

the famous painting by 

Gustav Klimt, The Kiss. 

More of a hidden gem, 

the Palace of Justice 

serves as the seat of the 

Austrian Supreme Court 

and is an impressive 

showcase of intricate 

Viennese architecture 

with its majestic 

ensemble of spiralling 

staircase, glass roof 

and oversized statue of 

Justitia. Right around the 

corner, Liechtenstein 

Garden Palace awes 

with its imperial 

elegance and splendour. 

Once considered the 

architectural muse of 

Italian landscape painter 

Canaletto, the grand 

palace boasts marvellous 

paintings and sculptures 

dating from 1500 to 1700. 

SEASONAL JOY 

With bustling festive 

markets lining its 

squares, Vienna sets 

the stage for a merry 

shopping extravaganza 

Rathausplatz The unique 

backdrop of the ornate 

and perfectly illuminated 

City Hall gives this market 

a charm of its own, but 

what makes it extra jolly 

are the delicious aromas 

that will to lull you into 

a festive bliss. Wander 

past 150 wooden stalls 

and pick from a myriad of 

festive gifts, decorations, 

handicrafts, tree lights and 

culinary delights. 

Schönbrunn Palace Set 

against the glorious 

backdrop of one of 

Vienna’s iconic landmarks, 

this market is quite 

possibly the most stylish 

in all the city. With live 

music performances 

taking place in front of 

the huge Christmas tree, 

bask in the festive spirit 

and tuck into delicious 

This page from top to bottom: 

A dazzling festive market; 

Belvedere Palace; Wiener 

Musikverein 

Opposite, from top: The 

famous Vienna Opera Ball 

© Wiener Staatsoper / Michael 

Pöhn; pink flamingos at 

Vienna Zoo 

Austrian delicacies. We 

rate the sugared pancake 

with raisins and chestnuts. 

Spittelberg Go beyond 

the glitz and glamour and 

make a beeline for this 

local gem. Spread over the 

charming cobbled streets 

of the hip Spittelberg 

Rise to a 

crescendo 

quarter, this cosy market 

brings a boutique flavour 

to the festive scene with 

its cheery ambience and 

quirky stalls that sell 

unique keepsakes such 

as ceramics, rugs and 

jewellery made of silver, 

enamel and brass. 

The City of Music serenades you 

with its classical heritage 

With Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert among 

its historical repertoire, Vienna lures with its 

soul-stirring history. If you can't lock down 

tickets for the Vienna State Opera (tickets 

sell out like wildfire), Volksoper is a great 

alternative with a more intimate setting and 

intriguing line-up of local performances. 

Alternatively, the acoustically renowned Wiener 

Musikverein offers visitors the coveted chance 

to see the world-famous Vienna Philharmonic 

Orchestra. Those who feel like going beyond the 

glamorous shows and diving more into the life 

of the geniuses behind it all should check out 

Mozarthaus Vienna, Mozart's only apartment 

that has survived to this day. 


THE LONG WEEKEND 

YOU SHALL GO TO 

THE BALL 

The Vienna Opera Ball. The ball of all balls, the 

Vienna State Opera transforms into a Cinderella 

wonderland as ladies in fabulous gowns and 

gentlemen in elegant tailcoats waltz the night 

away in what's considered the most beautiful 

ballroom in the world. wiener-staatsoper.at 

The Hofburg Silvesterball. The fireworks above 

the historic old town, the sounds of the Pummerin 

bell at St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the traditional 

Blue Danube Waltz as the clock strikes midnight 

makes this an unforgettable New Year affair. 

Rudolfina Redoute. For a dash of mystery, ladies 

are invited to don their most enticing masquerade 

masks, only to take them off as they lure their 

charming escorts to the dance floor for the ritual 

demasking quadrille dance at midnight. 

Words: Habiba Azab 

Ask a local 

Fashion designer 

Jelena Fiala 

(jelenafiala.com) 

unveils her 

pick of artistic 

treasures to take 

back home 

Viennese handicrafts exude a 

vintage allure and boast luxurious 

craftsmanship. Steeped in years of 

tradition and rich history, Augarten 

Porzellan is one of the oldest 

Austrian porcelain brands, offering 

a diverse collection of beautifully 

hand-made pieces. The stunning 

crafts are a great souvenir to take 

home. If you feel like glamming up 

with vintage jewels, the Girls Dreams 

boutique near Stephansplatz at 

Bräunerstraße 2 is a treasure trove of 

everything shiny. From gorgeously 

long pearl necklaces to the finest 

golden chains, you'll leave in a 

cloud of sparkle. Alternatively, the 

Naschmarkt flea market has around 

120 market stands selling practically 

everything. There are also plenty 

of food stalls dotted around so you 

can munch on a falafel wrap or hot 

dog as you browse. It also boasts 

amazing views over the canal. 

NATURAL 

ATTRACTION 

Schmetterlinghaus: 

The Imperial Butterfly 

Park Step into a whole 

new world of swirling 

colour and admire 

the way hundreds of 

exotic butterflies flutter 

away amid stunning 

tropical foliage at this 

natural oasis. Part of 

the Hofburg palace, the 

Jugendstil greenhouse 

is home to more than 

400 butterflies from 

different corners of 

the world, including 

vibrant Costa Rica and 

the lush Philippines. 

schmetterlinghaus.at 

Vienna Zoo Founded 

in 1752, the Vienna Zoo 

boasts an impressive 

history that proudly 

deems it the world's 

oldest zoo. Watch as 

Siberian tigers doze off 

on their platforms and 

elephants wallow in 

their mud baths. Better 

yet, head off to watch 

Fu Long, Fu Hu, and Fu 

Bao, the zoo's popular 

panda residents, as 

they captivate visitors 

with their charm. 

(Let's face it, they're 

pretty adorable). 

zoovienna.at 

Lainzer Tiergarten 

Grab your binoculars 

and take a walk on 

the wild side at this 

nature reserve in the 

southwest of Vienna, 

which is mostly 

covered in woodland. 

Adventurers can 

enjoy a scenic hike as 

they take in the city's 

fascinating wildlife. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI 

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI... 

Lap of luxury 

From the mega malls to the desert dunes, peel away the shiny 

wrapper on the UAE capital and revel in a curated collection of 

luxurious new events and attractions 

1Featuring 350 extraordinary 

objects, the 10,000 Years of 

Luxury exhibition at Louvre Abu 

Dhabi will take you on an historical tour 

of the lavish. Running until 18 February 

2020, it shines a light on the ways in 

which luxury has been interpreted 

by different cultures, from furniture 

fit for royalty to couture from iconic 

fashion houses and virtuous objects 

from Christian Dior, Chanel, Cartier and 

more. Plus, you can immerse yourself 

in a sensory journey thanks to the 

olfactory art installation, USO – The 

Perfumed Cloud. 

2 

Those with a penchant for 

designer labels should strut to 

The Galleria Al Maryah Island, 

which is hosting a shopping-inspired 

leg of the Flânerie Colbert Abu Dhabi 

luxury event series until 14 December. 

Intended to explore 21st-century 

French luxury, with a heavy focus 

on craftsmanship, you can expect 

showstopping window displays and 

some absolutely fabulous happenings, 

such as Louis Vuitton demonstrating 

its iconic monogram painting 

technique, and a masterclass in the 

art of saddle making with Hermès. 

3 

Experience a slice of luxury 

deep in the desert at the ultra 

Instagrammable Qasr Al Sarab 

Desert Resort by Anantara, which 

has introduced an impressive line-up 

of luxurious new adventures to mark 

its 10 th anniversary. The Bedouin Night 

Camping Experience invites you to 

spend the night in a Bedouin-style 

tent under a canopy of stars. Arrive 

by camel and savour an authentic 

Emirati dinner in the Hadheera. Plus, 

there's a thrilling range of activities to 

try, from archery to dune bashing. 

Find out more at visitabudhabi.ae 

Photo: The Bedouin Night Camping Experience 

at Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara 


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| Follow us on

Blue crush 

In the deep blues of the Maldives, Habiba Azab finds enchantment 

and serenity alongside the majestic gentle giants of the ocean 

Above the surface, the sea 

was dark and moody with 

drops of rain beating down 

upon its glassy exterior. Beneath the 

surface, there was a stillness, vastness 

and silence. I could feel my legs lose 

their fiery momentum as I pushed 

through wave after wave. Tick, tock. 

tick, tock. Still no sighting. Eyes wide 

open, I scanned the waters but all I 

could see was an endless expanse 

of lapping waves reverberating, 

drowning out my last hope. 

It was two days ago that I made my 

first journey to the Maldives. Flying 

east over the Indian Ocean, I peered 

through the plane windows and 

marvelled at how quickly the clouds 

gave way to vast sparkling blues. 

As the island loomed into view, my 

mind reeled at the plethora of shades 

underneath; aquamarine in parts, 

azure in others, maybe even cerulean? 

The ocean was a tapestry of peaks 

and dips, dotted with white-sandy 

patches and distinct outlines of vivid 

coral reefs. A few hours in and I was 

already scrapbooking this country. 

Just as I re-hinged my dropped 

jaw, the seaplane started its swift 

descent with everyone "ooh-ing", 

"ahh-ing" and snapping away until 

we glided to a graceful stop at the 

jetty. I could hear the faint sound of 

drums in the distance and, a short 

boat ride later, I arrived to beaming 

smiles and charming Maldivian chants 

at Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas. 

This was one time in life to embrace 

clichés, because the resort was 

everything I’d imagined the Maldives 

to be; an endless sweep of blindingly 

white sand, cotton-swirled blue 

skies and rows of stilted bungalows 

enveloped by water that is such a 

perfect shade of turquoise. It looked 

like an Instagram filter in real life. With 

a swinging daybed, marble-clad infinity 

pool and an outdoor bathroom that 

puts all other bathrooms to shame, it 

was easy to understand why people 

spent entire holidays cocooned in this 

cosy sanctuary. After a few lingering 

moments, I managed to tear myself 

away from its comforting claws and 

made my way down to the beach as the 

dipping sun set the sea ablaze with its 

spectacular shades of orange, snapping 

a mental postcard for years to come. 

I’d been told earlier that the best 

thing about the Maldives is its people. 

Friendly, kind and naturally hospitable, 

it was easy to be swayed by their 

genuine charm. And when my new 

friend Maldives (yes, his name was 

actually Maldives) called out a cheery 

“Haalu kihineh?” (how are you?) every 

morning as I rode my bike to breakfast, 

I couldn’t help but glow with glee. 

Never have I ever encountered an entire 

hotel staff so completely enamoured 

with their jobs as that at Anantara 

Kihavah. They lived in paradise and 

they sure acted like it. Whistling while 

they worked, and easily remembering 

every guest's name, and even my 

preference for an early morning orange 

juice. So, as the waiter at Sea poured 

me a freshly-squeezed glass, a cheesy 

smile nearly broke my face. But, to be 

honest, the rainbow-striped parrotfish 

playfully bumping his nose against my 

window may have been the reason why 

I was in such lively spirits. Voted as the 

World’s Best Underwater Restaurant 

for four years running, the aquariumlike 

restaurant offered a one-of-a-kind 

dining experience where it was unclear 

whether the fish swimming by were 

on display for you or the other way 

around. As I waited for my sumptuous 

meal to arrive, I spotted an unlikely 

alliance between a sea turtle and a 

baby lemon shark following by its side. 

We all watched in amazement as they 

put on a show of teasing each other 

behind the curved glass wall. “You’re 

very lucky, it’s a rare occasion to spot 

a sea turtle and a shark at the same 


WEEKENDS 


‘ 

I COULD SWEAR IN THAT MOMENT, 

IT WAS JUST THE RAY AND ME, 

ALONE IN AN UNDERWATER WORLD 

’ 

time,” enthused Annika Bjorka, director 

of spa, wellness and recreation. 

There’s something so meditative 

about the Maldives: the awe of millions 

of twinkling stars painting the midnight 

sky, the joy of a fresh chilly breeze 

or the sweet surprise of a gecko or a 

crab scuttling to take shelter. But the 

island’s true allure lies within its deep 

blue waters and the idea of snorkelling 

with reef manta rays had me buzzing 

with nervous excitement since the first 

day I arrived. I had watched enough 

videos of these majestic creatures to 

be prepared for this once-in-a-lifetime 

sea escapade that, by the time our 

trip rolled around, I couldn’t sit still. 

Not even having recently watched 

Jason Statham’s The Meg was enough 

to deter me from ticking this one 

off the bucket-list. With a sturdy 

life jacket strapped-on, I hopped 

onboard the boat and embarked 

on the 45-minute journey towards 

Hanifaru Bay, the world’s largest 

natural manta feeding region in the 

Baa Atoll where these mesmerising 

beings gather in groups of 150 or more 

between June and late November. 

“Don’t chase them, let them find 

their way to you. These giant rays are 

playful and curious by nature so don’t 

be surprised if they go out of their 

way to interact, drawing incredibly 

near and managing to avoid contact 

at the last second,” said our guide 

as the boat continued to rock back 

and forth over the choppy waters. 

“Having the largest brain-to-body 

ratio of all rays and sharks, they're also 

very intelligent beings. Many say they 

could feel an emotional connection 

whenever they’re in their presence.” 

It had all come down to this moment. 

A sudden uproar of whooping and 

whistling signalled the arrival of 

something exhilarating. I raced up 

to the front of the boat and joined 

the flurry of spectators watching 

in awe as the outline of a manta 

ray vanished into the depths with a 

surging velocity. "Let’s go!” our guide 

hollered. I scrambled down the deck 

trying not to trip on my oversized 

fins while frantically scouring the 

floor for my misplaced snorkel. Mask 

askew, I leapt from the boat into the 

warm Indian Ocean and plunged 

my face underwater, ready to begin 

a speedy, front crawl pursuit. 

Fifteen minutes passed, 25, 35… 

and yet there I was, peering down 

my snorkel mask into an empty dark 

void. I knew that with the newly 

introduced protection ban, the 

Hanifaru Bay only allowed a limit of 

five boats and 80 visitors with only 

45-minutes to spare. And with this 

information flashing in my brain, I 

felt like I was racing against the clock 

while trying to fight the impending 

disappointment waiting to take over. 

That's when everything changed. 

Just when I was about to give up 

and make a defeated retreat to the 

boat, a snowflake-speckled giant 

came swooping in behind a haze of 

bubbles. For a few seconds, my body 

froze, and time seemed to stand 

still as I marvelled at its graceful 

beauty. The all-encompassing silence 

enveloping me only served to intensify 

the experience and I could swear in 

that moment, it was just the ray and 

me, alone in an underwater world. 

Four times my size and just inches 

from my fingertips, the dazzling 

creature began a dizzying dance 

ritual; turning, swerving and gliding off 

into the indigo haze unhampered by 

gravity. Close on its tail, another manta 

pursuing the nutritious black specks 

of plankton appeared, and another 

and another – that's when I discovered 

you can squeal "oh, my God" into a 

snorkel multiple times and not drown. 




WEEKENDS 

Clockwise from far left: The 

scrumptious sea lobster dish at Sea; 

an aerial view of Anantara Kihavah 

Maldives Villas; dine underwater at 

Sea; soak in a relaxing bubble bath; 

lounge around in your private Beach 

Pool Villa 


WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA 

STAYCATION 

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa 

Escape the city in favour of a luxurious desert break 

THE ROOMS & SUITES 

Traditional Arabian design meets 

modern luxury at this top spa resort, 

creating an enchanting balance in each 

of the 115 spacious yet cosy rooms and 

suites. With desert, garden and pool 

vistas to wake up to, being surrounded 

by natural beauty is guaranteed. We 

say book a Deluxe Suite for some 

alfresco relaxation on the terrace with 

accompanying dune views. 

THE FOOD 

Foodies can embark on a culinary 

journey around the world, starting at Al 

Hadheerah to sample its authentic Middle 

Eastern cuisine and entertainment. The 

next evening, head to Masala for a true 

taste of India complete with a traditional 

live band. Lastly, stop by Le Dune for tasty 

Italian fare – and don’t miss watching the 

sun set over mezze and grills at Al Sarab 

Rooftop Lounge. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

It's high time to make the most of the 

abundance of outdoor activities available 

here, including horse and camel riding, 

biking and falconry. Thrillseekers will 

rush to take part in the Desert Drive, 

an open-top 4x4 tour that traverses the 

dunes, giving you the chance to spot 

wildlife as you go. Those with a sensitive 

disposition, however, can decamp to 

Satori Spa for a back massage. 

To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com 


RARE IS REAL 

Nestled among the rolling dunes of Dubai, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is a haven of rustic charm, 

luxurious Arabian hospitality, benchmark-setting facilities and a captivating desert environment. 

This oasis of pure indulgence offers guests an array of sumptuous dining experiences 

from Italy to India and the Middle East, desert activities including falconry, 

camel riding and archery, rejuvenating therapies at the award-winning Satori Spa 

as well as facilities designed to ensure that every moment is one to be cherished for years to come. 

babalshams.com 

/babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel 

DESERT RESORT & SPA - DUBAI

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL 

STAYCATION 

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel 

Quintessential British charm blends effortlessly with cosmopolitan luxury at this Dubai resort 


Those in search of British pomp with a 

contemporary twist can look no further 

than this charming beachfront resort. 

Reminders of a classical age include 

portraits of aristocrats and baroque 

furnishings while sleek bedding and 

state-of-the-art technologies keep up 

with the modern trends. Stay in style and 

book the Sky Studio – you'll be awarded 

with panoramic views of the city. 

THE FOOD 

With pastries, waffles, pancakes and 

eggs cooked to order, breakfast at Great 

British Restaurant is a delectable feast 

fit for dukes. Meat eaters are also in for 

a treat at West 14 th Steakhouse where 

sumptuous cuts of top quality steaks are 

served against the stunning background 

of the city's sparkling skyline. If you're 

up for an evening drink, Duke's Bar 

offers zesty blends, James Bond style. 


Make the most of the city's glorious 

winter weather and unwind by the 

outsized infinity pool with its lush views 

of Palm Jumeirah. Better yet, idle away 

on the beach with a chilled drink in hand 

and soak up the winter rays. Break a 

sweat at the fitness centre, which boasts 

a wide array of advanced facilities and 

machines. Located on the 14 th floor, the 

vistas promise sweet distraction. 

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or royalhideaway.com 


استمتع بالفخامة 

احجز إقامتك في جناحنا الملكي،‏ جناح الملكة إليزابيث

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES 

STAYCATION 

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites 

For a longer stay, make yourself at home in a stylish suite overlooking Dubai Marina 


If you're planning on staying in Dubai 

for a while, or simply appreciate the 

convenience of having your own kitchen, 

the stylish suites at this four-star 

property in Dubai Marina are just the 

ticket. There are one-, two- and threebedroom 

suites available, each featuring 

a modern kitchen and a sleek marble 

bathroom with an oversized tub. Room 

service is available around the clock. 

THE FOOD 

Jump-start your day with a delectable 

menu of international dishes at Counter 

Culture Café, which also offers free Wi-Fi 

so you can stay well connected to the 

wider world. For hearty British fare with 

a twist, The Croft is the place to go. On 

the 52 nd floor, Observatory Bar & Grill is 

where you should head for classic dishes 

and crafted drinks, with panoramic views 

of the waterfront. 


Your fitness regime needn't suffer, as all 

guests enjoy access to the fitness centre. 

When you want to unwind, head to Saray 

Spa, which offers a range of pampering 

treatments, such as the signature Saray 

Arabic Coffee Awakener, which includes 

a body scrub, mask and massage. Get out 

and explore Dubai, including Jumeirah 

Beach Residence and Dubai Media City, 

which are just a short stroll away. 

To find out more, call +971 4 319 4000 or visit marriottharbourdubaidining.com 


CREATE 

SPECIAL 

MOMENTS 

WITH US. 

Standing tall in the heart of 

Dubai Marina, featuring 

incomparable panoramic views 

of the city, combine the best 

of all worlds with luxurious 

accommodation, three 

contemporary dining 

destinations and a blissful 

caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa. 

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES 

KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET 

DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE 

T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM 

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites 

@marriottharbour

WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai 

Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel 


Wake up in the clouds and revel in 

stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the 

city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise 

waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites 

boast marshmallow soft beddings 

and soundproof windows for a serene 

slumber, while Executive rooms come 

with perks including complimentary 

drinks, a continental breakfast and 

afternoon tea in the lounge. 

THE FOOD 

Foodies are spoilt for choice with 

more than 14 dining venues offering a 

selection of delicacies from around the 

world. Splurge on a unique sky-high 

dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before 

heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault. 

To spice it up, the recently opened 

Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves 

traditional recipes from ancient India 

with a contemporary twist. 


Discover the shiniest gems the city has 

to offer with top attractions including 

The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai 

Opera right around the corner. After a 

day out and about, pamper yourself back 

at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray 

Spa. Soothing body massages, bespoke 

facials and holistic rituals draw upon 

the spa's Arabian heritage for a top-totoe 

rejuvenating experience. 

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 


Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the 

Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. 

The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants 

and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 

17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular 

Meeting Spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

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INSPIRED BY 

Reader offers 

Great deals to get you packing 

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FOUR FANTASTIC HOLIDAYS 

TANZANIA 

SELOUS & ZANZIBAR 

5 nights starting from 

USD2,055 per person 

Includes: Stay 2 nights in Selous 

Riverside Kulinda Safari Camp on 

SWITZERLAND 

INTERLAKEN 



Includes: Spend 3 nights at Lindner 

Grand Hotel Beau Rivage with 

NEW ZEALAND 

QUEENSTOWN 



Includes: Stay 5 nights in 

a Lake View Hotel Room 

FESTIVE MARKETS 

ZAGREB-BUDAPEST- 

KRAKOW 


USD965 per person 

Includes: Stay 2 nights at 

full-board basis including daily game 

breakfast. Enjoy a full day group 

at Rees Hotel and Luxury 

Esplanade Hotel Zagreb, 2 

drives and park fees. Plus, 3 nights in 

lesson including ski pass, 2 days 

Apartments, 2 nights in a 

nights at Iberostar Grand 

Azao Beach Resort, Zanzibar on full 

equipment, and choose between 

Deluxe Room at Crowne 

Budapest, and 2 nights at 

board basis. All transport on game 

½ day skiing or guided snow shoe 

Plaza Christchurch (or 

Radisson Blu Kralow including 

drive and safari sectors will be in 

tour with fondue lunch and 

similar) and enjoy 8 day 

breakfast daily and 2 nd Class 

a 4x4 vehicle with pop-up roof and 

sledging. Hotel transfers available. 

Hertz car hire. 

Eurail Global pass. 

guaranteed window seat. 

Valid from: Now until 



Valid from: Now until 31 March 2020. 

31 December 2019. 




DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS 

AROUND THE WORLD 

INDONESIA 

W BALI, SEMINYAK 

3 nights starting 

from USD570 

per person 

Includes: Spend 3 nights in a 

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THAILAND 

ANDARA RESORT & VILLA 

PHUKET 



Includes: Enjoy 4 nights in a 

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MALDIVES 

LUX* SOUTH ARI ATOLL 



Includes: Stay 3 nights 

in a Beach Pavilion with 

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SEYCHELLES 

FOUR SEASONS RESORT 

SEYCHELLES AT DESROCHES 

ISLAND 



Includes: Enjoy 3 nights in a Beach 

Room with breakfast. 

with breakfast. 

Offer: Save 15% on your stay. 

Bungalow with breakfast. 


Offer: Stay for 4 nights, pay for 3. 

Valid from: Now until 31 

Offer: Complimentary domestic flight. 



October 2020. Book by 


29 February 2020. 

31 March 2021. 



Le Blanc Spa Resort Cancun 

Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort 

PORTUGAL 

ANANTARA VILAMOURA 

ALGARVE RESORT 



Includes: Stay 3 nights in a 

Deluxe Room with breakfast. 


Valid from: Now until 27 December 2019. 

Andara Resort & Villa Phuket 

W Bali 

MEXICO 

LE BLANC SPA RESORT CANCUN 




Royale Deluxe Resort View Room 

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Offer: Enjoy complimentary $1500 

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FRANCE 

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Includes: Stay 3 nights in a 

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Superior Room with breakfast. 




MALAYSIA 

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, KUALA 

LUMPUR 









DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS 

Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort 

WEEKEND ESCAPES 

UAE 

LE MÉRIDIEN MINA 

SEYAHI BEACH RESORT 

& MARINA 

1 night starting from 


Includes: Spend 1 night in 

a Deluxe Skyline Room 


Offer: Save 34% on 

your stay, Complimentary 

Half Board Dine 

Around Upgrade. 



KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL 

OF THE EMIRATES 



Includes: Stay 1 night in a 

Superior Room 





JA BEACH HOTEL 



Includes: Stay 1 night in a Sea 

View Room with breakfast. 




NIKKI BEACH RESORT AND 

SPA DUBAI 




Covet Room with breakfast. 


your stay. 



THE ABU DHABI EDITION 






your stay. 



AL AIN ROTANA 



Includes: Enjoy 1 night in a 

Classic Room with breakfast. 


your stay. 



BAHRAIN 

DOWNTOWN ROTANA 

MANAMA 



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in a Classic Room 



your stay. 



OMAN 

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL 

AKHDAR RESORT 



Includes: Stay 2 nights 

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breakfast and dinner. 


your stay. 



Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates 

Nikki Beach Resort 

and Spa Dubai 

Downtown Rotana Manama 

How to book 

By calling dnata on 

800 DNATA 

By stepping into a dnata outlet 

or by visiting dnatatravel.com 

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata 

newsletter and receive more offers direct to your 

inbox. T&Cs apply. 


THROUGH 

THE LENS 

Table Mountain, 

Cape Town 

Cape Town is a city that constantly 

has me chasing sunsets. On this 

particular visit, clouds were 

blanketing the whole town, so it 

was a risky move to attempt this 

hike. However, I still gathered a 

few friends and we raced our way 

up the Lion’s Head (the mountain 

opposite Table Mountain, pictured 

here) to chase what would turn 

out to be an unforgettable sunset. 

Fortunately, taking that risk 

paid off and we were blessed 

with a magnificent golden hour 

experience. The vibe at the 

summit was even more electric, 

as dozens of sunset chasers took 

in the panoramic views of Cape 

Town’s towering mountains, 

sparkling bays, and endless ocean. 

Travel and photography fan 

Elijah Soldium loves to travel 

because: "You get to share 

awe-inspiring moments 

with strangers." Follow him 

at @ThePartyingTraveler, 

thepartyingtraveler.com 

EMAIL US YOUR BEST 

TRAVEL PHOTOS 

in high-res jpeg format, along 

with the stories behind them to 

habiba@hotmedia.me and you 

may end up being featured 

on this page 


Now win! 

DIGITAL 

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COMPANION 

Stay up-to-date with all that’s 

happening on our social channels 

and join in the conversation by 

sharing your experiences. Here’s 

where you can find us… 

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Win a two-night stay at 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai 

The world’s tallest five-star hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, is one of the 

most coveted places to rest your head in the emirate. Offering stellar views of 

the city skyline and Arabian Gulf, the rooms are sleek yet luxurious and there are 

more than 14 dining venues to discover, including Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, 

which serves recipes from ancient India with a contemporary twist. Plus, you can 

kick back and relax with a soothing treatment at Saray Spa. To find out more and 

to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win. (T&Cs apply). 

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 

Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, 

inspire your next trip… 

1The Knowledge. 

Read our handy 

how-tos, from 

getting to grips with 

travel insurance to 

helping kids beat jet 

lag, and more. 

2Staycations. 

Take a peek 

inside these top 

hotels and resorts on 

your doorstep, and 

then book your next 

mini break. 

3Insider guides. 

Check out our 

in-the-know 

travel edits of some 

of the most popular 

holiday destinations 

on our radar. 


Suite dreams 

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite 

that has a character and style all of its own 

THE MANHATTAN SKY SUITE 

Park Hyatt New York 

When in New York, views of Central Park don't get more epic than this. This sprawling threebedroom 

abode – the penthouse, no less – stands head and shoulders above the rest as one of 

Manhattan's highest suites overlooking this much-loved green space, enhanced by sweeping 

views of the skyline. Arrive by helicopter (it's a complimentary add-on) and revel in the luxury of 

your personal chef, butler service, daily breakfast and spa treatments for up to six guests. You'll 

find the hotel in the heart of Midtown, just one block away from the park. 


Festive Celebrations 

at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. 

Elevate your festivities to new heights at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, 

your ultimate dining destination. Make this festive season extra special for you 

and your loved ones with impeccable dishes, fun entertainment and memorable 

experiences. 

FESTIVE MENUS AND DELICIOUS TREATS 

MERRY FAMILY CELEBRATIONS 

EXCEPTIONAL AFTERNOON TEA IN A FESTIVE ENVIRONMENT 

AWARD-WINNING TURKEY TAKEAWAY 

EPIC NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTIES 

Indulge in award-winning cuisine this festive season, one dish at a time. 

For more information, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T + 971 4 414 3000 I jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

jwmarriottmarquisdubai I jwdubaimarquis I jwmarriottmarquisdubai I #jwmmfestive

World Traveller December 2019

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