GlobeRovers Magazine, Dec 2019
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VOL. 7 · NO. 2, <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
Journal of Globerovers Productions · GR<br />
<strong>GlobeRovers</strong><br />
Feature Article<br />
10 Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
Winter is the most beautiful month of the year if you are blessed with heavy snowfalls. There are few<br />
natural landscapes more splendid than walking through a snow-covered forest; relaxing in a natural hot<br />
spring while snow is falling around you; or skiing down a snow-covered mountain. One of the best places<br />
in the world to enjoy winter is Japan. Not only does it offer pristine natural scenery with lots of snow,<br />
it also offers a colourful culture and great food that will make any winter escapade memorable for life.<br />
ARTICLES + PHOTO ESSAYS<br />
REGULAR SECTIONS<br />
42<br />
Albania’s Riviera on the Ionian Sea<br />
Described as having “turquoise seas,<br />
scenic mountain backdrops and sparkling<br />
shores” southern Albania is known as the<br />
“Albanian Riviera” for many good reasons.<br />
58<br />
138<br />
144<br />
SPECIAL FEATURES<br />
Sensible Travel Gear<br />
Tasty Traveller’s Treats<br />
Postcards to Mommy<br />
60<br />
82<br />
Svalbard - Gateway to the North Pole<br />
The Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic<br />
Ocean is gateway to the North Pole and<br />
therefore ideal for adventurers wanting to<br />
see polar bears and the Northern Lights.<br />
Mauritius - Indian Ocean Island (Part 2)<br />
Located west of Madagascar, Mauritius is<br />
known for its turquoise seas, black volcanic<br />
rocks, palm trees, sugar cane fields<br />
and craggy mountain peaks.<br />
78<br />
120<br />
136<br />
142<br />
148<br />
152<br />
CONTRIBUTIONS<br />
The Earth is calling us to Action<br />
South Australian Outback<br />
Canada’s Fort Resolution<br />
Volunteering - To pay or not to pay<br />
Traveller in the Spotlight<br />
Book Review<br />
96<br />
108<br />
126<br />
Oman - Gem of the Arabian Peninsula<br />
As one of the most stable and safe countries<br />
for travellers in the Middle East,<br />
Oman has incredible natural scenery and<br />
culture to offer intrepid travellers.<br />
Colombia - Caribbean Adventures<br />
Colombia’s Caribbean coastline is home<br />
to unspoiled islands, deserted beaches,<br />
a well preserved colonial town, ancient<br />
ruins, and even a bubbling mud volcano.<br />
Corcovado Jungle Trekking - Costa Rica<br />
On a remote peninsula along the Pacific<br />
West Coast of Costa Rica is Corcovado<br />
National Park, known for its countless<br />
species of living creatures.<br />
Skiing among the Juhyou frosted<br />
trees. Zao Onsen, Japan<br />
38<br />
76<br />
124<br />
155<br />
TOP LISTS<br />
10 Winter Activities in Japan<br />
10 Experiences on Svalbard<br />
9 Intrepid Places to visit in 2020<br />
IN THE NEXT ISSUE<br />
Cambodia Island Hopping<br />
The Cambodian islands in the Gulf of<br />
Thailand have long been ignored by most<br />
travellers who flock to neighbouring Thailand.<br />
These islands are known for their<br />
lapis-blue waters, jungle-clad interiors,<br />
swathes of white sand, and bioluminescent<br />
plankton that glows at night.<br />
1
2 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
21/11/19-B
Editor‛s Message<br />
“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien<br />
John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist,<br />
university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.<br />
THE FRONT COVER:<br />
“Snow Monsters” of Zao, Japan<br />
Globerovers <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
is currently a biannual magazine, available<br />
in digital and printed formats.<br />
We focus on bringing exciting destinations<br />
and inspiring photography from around<br />
the globe to the intrepid traveller.<br />
Published in Hong Kong<br />
Printed in U.S.A. and Europe<br />
WHO WE ARE:<br />
Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn<br />
Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho<br />
Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn<br />
Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn<br />
Proofreader - Marion Halliday<br />
Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom<br />
Distribution - Leon Ringwell<br />
FOLLOW US:<br />
www.globerovers-magazine.com<br />
www.globerovers.com<br />
facebook.com/GloberoversMag<br />
pinterest.com/Globerovers<br />
twitter.com/Globerovers<br />
instagram.com/GloberoversMag<br />
CONTACT US:<br />
editor@globerovers.com<br />
Dear Readers,<br />
In this 14th issue of Globerovers <strong>Magazine</strong>, we are pleased to bring you a variety of<br />
exciting destinations for your reading enjoyment.<br />
The feature destination is Japan. While any time is a good time to visit Japan, we<br />
found the winter scenery to be picturesque beyond our imagination. We start our<br />
adventure in northern Honshu Island at the Zao Onsen and Ski Resort where we<br />
also meet the “Snow Monsters”. From here we travel north to meet Princess Tatsuko<br />
at Lake Tazawako. We then cross the sea to Hokkaido Island where we spend time<br />
with tancho cranes at the Kushiro Marshes and whooper swans at Lake Kussharo.<br />
We also go polar bear spotting by dogsled on the arctic Svalbard Islands and then<br />
travel along Colombia’s Caribbean coast to take a bath in a mud volcano. Afterwards<br />
we search for the region’s most tranquil sandy beaches and turquoise waters. Mauritius<br />
(Part 2) offers more travel advice from this idyllic Indian Ocean island.<br />
Photo Essays include the Albanian Riviera, Oman on the Arabian Peninsula, and<br />
Costa Rica’s remote Corcovado National Park.<br />
We also have our regular contributions from Canada and Australia, a guide to<br />
volunteering, and an article about the negative effects of mass tourism.<br />
A special thank you to our sponsors as well as all our<br />
wonderful contributors who we introduce on page 5.<br />
Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan<br />
the QR codes on page 7.<br />
Feedback to editor@globerovers.com.<br />
I travel so you can see the world!<br />
Peter Steyn, PhD<br />
Editor-in-Chief and Publisher<br />
Copyright © 2013-<strong>2019</strong>. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any part of this magazine<br />
is strictly prohibited without the prior written approval of the publisher. The publisher<br />
does not take responsibility for any potential inaccurate information herein.<br />
THE FRONT COVER<br />
“Snow monsters” of Zao<br />
Known as “snow monsters”, the trees on Mount Zao take on<br />
mystifying shapes during the coldest part of the winter.<br />
3
4 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Thanks to our Contributors<br />
In this issue<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our<br />
awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, Globerovers <strong>Magazine</strong> just wouldnʼt be the same!<br />
Fuchsia Sims, Sydney, Australia (page 78)<br />
Fuchsia is co-founder of the Adventure Junky App - Earths Sustainable Travel Game. Helping<br />
you make responsible travel achievable and fun by awarding you points for completing or contributing<br />
low-impact experiences and showcasing destinations and travel operators that offer them.<br />
Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 82)<br />
Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is<br />
the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern<br />
African editor for Globerovers <strong>Magazine</strong>.<br />
Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 120)<br />
Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased<br />
attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and<br />
published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.<br />
Yrene Dee, Lumby, BC, Canada (Page 136)<br />
Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and<br />
worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an<br />
entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.<br />
Claire Bennett, Kathmandu, Nepal (page 142)<br />
Claire lives and works in Kathmandu, Nepal, and freelances as a trainer and consultant. She is<br />
passionate about global education, ethical travel and ensuring good intentions are put to good<br />
use. She is co-author of Learning Service: The Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad.<br />
João Leitão (page 148)<br />
João is a travel blogger who writes about journeys into more than 130 countries across Africa, Antarctica,<br />
Asia, Europe, the Americas and Oceania. A Portuguese expat living in Morocco since 2006,<br />
João loves to indulge into other cultures and learn about their languages and traditional values.<br />
Adam Rogers, New York, USA (page 152)<br />
Adam is a peripatetic writer and explorer who has been on the road for most of the past 40<br />
years. He is the author of numerous books including The Intrepid Traveler, Taking Action, The<br />
Earth Summit and The No Mammal Manifesto: Diet for a new and more sustainable world.<br />
5
The Globerovers‛ World<br />
Globerovers <strong>Magazine</strong> was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the<br />
edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.<br />
It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has<br />
visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore<br />
Siberia (Russia) and Mongolia in the near future. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.<br />
Afghanistan<br />
Albania<br />
Andorra<br />
Argentina<br />
Armenia<br />
Australia<br />
Austria<br />
Azerbaijan<br />
Bahrain<br />
Bangladesh<br />
Belarus<br />
Belgium<br />
Belize<br />
Bolivia<br />
Bosnia-Herzegovina<br />
Brazil<br />
Brunei<br />
Bulgaria<br />
Cambodia<br />
Canada<br />
Chile<br />
China<br />
Colombia<br />
Costa Rica<br />
Croatia<br />
Cuba<br />
Cyprus<br />
Czech Rep.<br />
Denmark<br />
Ecuador<br />
Egypt<br />
El Salvador<br />
Estonia<br />
Finland<br />
France<br />
Georgia<br />
Germany<br />
Greece<br />
Greenland<br />
Guatemala<br />
Honduras<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Hungary<br />
Iceland<br />
India<br />
Indonesia<br />
Iran<br />
Ireland<br />
Israel<br />
Italy<br />
Japan<br />
Jordan<br />
Kazakhstan<br />
Kosovo<br />
Kyrgyzstan<br />
Laos<br />
Latvia<br />
Lebanon<br />
Lesotho<br />
Liechtenstein<br />
Lithuania<br />
Luxembourg<br />
Macau<br />
Macedonia<br />
Malaysia<br />
Maldives<br />
Malta<br />
Mauritius<br />
Mexico<br />
Moldova<br />
Monaco<br />
Montenegro<br />
Morocco<br />
Myanmar / Burma<br />
Namibia<br />
Nepal<br />
Netherlands<br />
New Zealand<br />
Nicaragua<br />
North Korea<br />
Norway<br />
Oman<br />
Pakistan<br />
Panama<br />
Papua New Guinea<br />
Paraguay<br />
Peru<br />
Philippines<br />
Poland<br />
Portugal<br />
Romania<br />
Russia<br />
San Marino<br />
Serbia<br />
Singapore<br />
Slovakia<br />
Slovenia<br />
South Africa<br />
South Korea<br />
Spain<br />
Sri Lanka<br />
Swaziland<br />
Sweden<br />
Switzerland<br />
Syria<br />
Taiwan<br />
Tajikistan<br />
Thailand<br />
Timor Leste (East Timor)<br />
Turkey<br />
Ukraine<br />
United Arab Emirates<br />
United Kingdom<br />
United States<br />
Uruguay<br />
Uzbekistan<br />
Vanuatu<br />
Vatican<br />
Vietnam<br />
Yemen<br />
Zambia<br />
Zimbabwe<br />
122 and counting...<br />
6 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
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7
DESTINATIONS<br />
IN THIS ISSUE<br />
CANADA<br />
Page 136<br />
ALBANIA<br />
Page 42<br />
COSTA RICA<br />
Page 126<br />
COLOMBIA<br />
Page 108<br />
Use a QR reader on your<br />
phone to read these codes<br />
8 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
SVALBARD ISLANDS<br />
Page 60<br />
OMAN<br />
Page 96<br />
JAPAN<br />
Page 10<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Page 120<br />
MAURITIUS<br />
Page 82<br />
9
Feature Article<br />
Japan<br />
The “Snow Monsters” of Zao more closely resemble humans than monsters.<br />
The juhyo (ice trees) around the peak of the Zao Ski Resort are<br />
created during the coldest part of the winter on evergreen conifer trees<br />
such as Japanese red pines, white fir, blue spruce, and red cedars.<br />
The best time to see them is from early January to early March.<br />
10 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
JAPAN<br />
A WINTER WONDERLAND<br />
While any time is a good time to explore the beauty of Japan, winter months are truly special.<br />
Nothing better for mind and spirit than watching the soft snow falling while sipping on hot sake wine.<br />
Anthony Bourdain, the celebrity<br />
chef, author, and popular travel<br />
documentarian who took his own<br />
life in 2018, once said: “Japan<br />
is endlessly interesting to me. After going on<br />
nine filming trips there, I don’t think I’ve even<br />
scratched the surface and I don’t think I ever will”.<br />
He was especially fond of the food in Japan and<br />
proclaimed: “If I had to eat only in one city for the<br />
rest of my life, Tokyo would be it”.<br />
Most travellers who have been to Japan will<br />
agree that Japan has more to offer than one<br />
person can experience in a lifetime. I personally<br />
have been to Japan numerous times and I too still<br />
feel that I have not<br />
scratched the surface.<br />
In addition to the beautiful natural snow-covered<br />
scenery in winter, Japan’s culture smoothly intertwines<br />
with this special time of the year.<br />
While the Japanese<br />
archipelago consists<br />
of 6,852 islands,<br />
roughly arranged in<br />
the shape of a dragon, its total land area is 377,973<br />
km² - a large area to explore. Being a long skinny<br />
country stretching from the southernmost island<br />
of Okinotori in the Philippine Sea all the way up<br />
to the northern tip of Hokkaido Island near Russia’s<br />
Sakhalin Island, the distance - as the crow flies<br />
- is approximately 2,840 kilometres (1,765 mi).<br />
However, the uninterrupted drivable distance<br />
from the southern end of Kyushu Island to the<br />
northern tip of Hokkaido Island is about 2,780<br />
kilometres (1,727 mi).<br />
The first challenging decision when planning<br />
a trip to Japan is the choice of season as Japan has<br />
four very well defined seasons: Spring is time for<br />
the famous cherry blossoms (locally known as<br />
sakura), the season for which Japan is most well<br />
known. Summers are hot with lush-green landscapes,<br />
while in autumn, Japan’s trees and shrubs<br />
explode in colours of yellow, orange, red, purple<br />
and all shades in between. During winter, much<br />
of Japan turns into an idyllic winter wonderland.<br />
Every season is a good season to visit Japan.<br />
Summers are great for festivals and fireworks,<br />
though it can get quite hot and humid. Spring and<br />
autumn are arguably the most pleasant seasons,<br />
while winter is the most exciting with all the<br />
winter-sports, steaming hot springs (locally known<br />
as onsen), snow and ice festivals, rare wildlife,<br />
illuminated villages, and don’t forget the hot Japanese<br />
rice wine (locally<br />
known as sake) on<br />
cold winter nights.<br />
If you want to<br />
experience the beauty<br />
of the cherry blossoms,<br />
then visit during March and April. The<br />
peak period for the blossoms is mid to late March<br />
on Kyushu and mid to late April on Hokkaido.<br />
If you are more interested in the vibrant glowing<br />
orange and red colours of autumn, then visit<br />
between late October in the north all the way to<br />
mid-<strong>Dec</strong>ember in the south. Autumn first arrives<br />
in the far north of Hokkaido, and then slowly<br />
moves south to Kyushu, the same directional flow<br />
as the winter snow-falls.<br />
You may think of winter as a dreadfully cold<br />
and depressing time of the year. While this can be<br />
true, this perception mostly applies if you are living<br />
in Japan and have to commute to work in icy<br />
conditions and shovel the snow in your driveway.<br />
Feature • Japan | 11
As a traveller, no little inconveniences<br />
brought on by winter will bother you. On<br />
the contrary, all that will matter to you is<br />
sitting in a steaming hot spring while the<br />
gently falling snowflakes create a white hat<br />
on your head. Relax and have another hot<br />
sake rice wine while thinking about your<br />
cross-country ski routes.<br />
Japanese winters are relatively brief.<br />
Starting around late November or early<br />
<strong>Dec</strong>ember, the winter season generally<br />
continues until the end of February or<br />
early to mid-March.<br />
As expected, the further north you<br />
travel, the longer and harsher the winters<br />
are. In some parts of Hokkaido in the far<br />
north, and in the mountainous regions,<br />
winter can be even longer and colder.<br />
Generally, the coldest temperatures come<br />
around in February when the mercury can<br />
drop well below freezing point.<br />
While the southern islands of Okinawa<br />
never see snow, heavy snowfalls are<br />
frequent along the coastal mountains on<br />
the Japanese Sea facing Russia and Korea,<br />
the northern parts of Honshu, and all of<br />
Hokkaido.<br />
Come along as we explore a few of<br />
Japan’s most idyllic winter wonderlands.<br />
In the lower-northern part of Honshu,<br />
we visit Zao Onsen and Ski Resort, also<br />
famous for its Juhyou frosted fir trees.<br />
After Zao, we travel further north to<br />
Lake Tazawako and the nearby Tsurunoyu<br />
Onsen.<br />
As Hokkaido is the most idyllic winter<br />
spot of Japan, we then take the train north<br />
through the Tsugaru Strait that separates<br />
Honshu Island and Hokkaido Island. After<br />
a brief stop to attend the snow festival in<br />
Hokkaido’s capital Sapporo, we head east<br />
to the Kushiro Marshes to spend time with<br />
the red-crowned cranes performing their<br />
love dances in the snow. From there, we<br />
travel north to the shores of Lake Kussharo,<br />
home to the large white whooper swans<br />
dabbling on the hot springs, surrounded<br />
by snow.<br />
Before we start our travels, we first<br />
consider ten brilliant reasons for visiting<br />
Japan in winter. After that, come along as<br />
we visit two winter wonderlands on northern<br />
Honshu Island before we move further<br />
north to Hokkaido.<br />
WHY CHOOSE WINTER?<br />
While Japan is great any time of the<br />
year, winter is truly special.<br />
Choosing the right season to<br />
visit Japan is a tough decision.<br />
While the best decision is to<br />
visit Japan during all four seasons, winter<br />
is the most exciting time. Here are ten of<br />
the best reasons why winter is a great time<br />
to visit Japan:<br />
1. FEWER TOURISTS IN WINTER<br />
The surge in foreign visitors to Japan<br />
has been the result of a gradual easing of<br />
Japan’s travel visa requirements since 2013,<br />
as well as an increase in the number of<br />
Asian budget airlines flying into Japan. The<br />
depreciation of the Japanese yen has also<br />
boosted tourist arrivals.<br />
The number of tourist arrivals from<br />
China increased four-fold over a five-year<br />
period so that China has overtaken South<br />
Korea as the top source of tourists. The<br />
Asia region now accounts for about 85% of<br />
all tourist arrivals in Japan. According to<br />
the Japan National Tourism Organization<br />
(JNTO), the estimated number of international<br />
travellers to Japan in June <strong>2019</strong> was<br />
about 2.9 million, a 6.5% increase from the<br />
previous year and the highest tourist arrival<br />
number for the month of June, ever.<br />
To avoid the crowds, visit throughout<br />
the winter months when you will find many<br />
of the country’s most iconic sights almost<br />
completely deserted. Gone are the madding<br />
crowds from spring, summer, and autumn.<br />
2. THE JAPANESE ONSEN<br />
A Japanese onsen is a mineral-rich<br />
geothermal natural hot spring bath. On a<br />
cold and snowy day, there is simply nothing<br />
like sinking into a steamy outdoors<br />
bath (locally known as rotenburo) while<br />
snowflakes are gently falling all around<br />
you. While the steaming mountain-stream<br />
meanders through the snow-covered<br />
woods and flows right into your natural<br />
rocky bath, you sip on a hot sake and know<br />
you came to the right place.<br />
The onsen, as well as the sentō (community<br />
bath-house), are integral to Japanese<br />
culture. While a visit to one or two<br />
sentō is a great introduction to this part of<br />
Japanese culture, the onsen is where you<br />
want to spend more time.<br />
Some onsen are traditional cedarpanelled<br />
baths in large themed complexes<br />
where you can bathe in a variety of waters<br />
from milky white coloured water, to aromatic<br />
water smelling of honey. The rotenburo<br />
outdoor bath that hugs the side of the<br />
jungle or a picturesque creek, is where you<br />
want to be, especially in winter.<br />
Japan has so many beautiful onsen all<br />
over the country that it is hard to single<br />
out the best. Even so, make sure to visit the<br />
tranquil onsen town of Ginzan in Yamagata<br />
Prefecture, one of the most historic and<br />
picturesque onsen towns in Japan.<br />
The town is located along the banks of<br />
the Ginzan River and also offers beautiful<br />
wooden ryokan, the traditional onsen<br />
inns. Another onsen area not to miss is the<br />
Noberibetsu Onsen region of Hokkaido, as<br />
well as Zao Onsen and Tsurunoyu Onsen<br />
in the northern part of Honshu Island.<br />
12 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
3. HOT SAKE RICE WINE<br />
Going hand-in-hand with the onsen<br />
experience, though certainly not limited to<br />
the onsen, is the Japanese culture of enjoying<br />
heated sake (Japan’s native rice wine)<br />
on a cold winter’s day or night.<br />
While sake is enjoyed straight from<br />
the fridge during the rest of the year, during<br />
winter there is nothing better than to<br />
warm yourself up with a glass of hot sake.<br />
Enjoy your sake in the onsen, or huddled<br />
inside your traditional ryokan (travellers<br />
inn) or in an izakaya (small Japanese pub).<br />
Sake comes in a variety of types and qualities,<br />
with prices to match.<br />
4. SNOW FESTIVALS<br />
Japan is well known for its elaborate<br />
show festivals. While there are many such<br />
festivals all over Japan, the most impressive<br />
is the Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival)<br />
on Hokkaido Island. Lasting one week in<br />
February, Sapporo’s festival features illuminations,<br />
skating, toboggan runs, ice bars,<br />
many kinds of winter games, and enormous<br />
sculptures created from ice and snow. Some<br />
of these works of art measure up to 15 metres<br />
(49 ft) tall and 25 metres (82 ft) wide.<br />
In the neighbouring town of Otaru, check<br />
out the Light Snow Path Festival.<br />
Some other festivals to consider are<br />
the Tokamachi Snow Festival, Asahikawa<br />
Winter Festival, Akita’s Yokote Kamakura<br />
Festival, Tochigi’s Yunishigawa Onsen Kamakura<br />
Festival, and the Snow Monsters<br />
Festival of Zao in Yamagata.<br />
Watch out for the traditional kamakura<br />
(igloo-like snow huts or domes)<br />
which are traditionally made in the Tohoku<br />
region and in northern areas of the<br />
Kanto region, such as at the Yunishigawa<br />
Kamakura Festival. At night, the town is lit<br />
up with hundreds of small kamakura with<br />
candles and turns into a magical winter<br />
wonderland.<br />
5. SNOW SPORTS<br />
Japan is over 70% mountainous, boasts<br />
over 500 ski resorts, and receives some<br />
of the world’s most reliable snowfall. It is<br />
not hard to find excellent ski resorts with<br />
sweeping ski-runs and superb powdery<br />
snow alongside stunning natural beauty<br />
and romantic accommodation where hospitality<br />
is top-notch.<br />
Just 200 kilometres (124 mi) northwest<br />
of Tokyo is Yuzawa in the Japanese Alps.<br />
The area is world-renowned for its heavy<br />
snowfalls and a prolonged winter season<br />
with excellent trails for skiing and snow-<br />
Feature • Japan | 13
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
14 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
oarding. Furthermore, Yuzawa is blessed<br />
with several hot springs, some dating back<br />
900 years. The Kaido-no-yu onsen has outdoor<br />
pools with breathtaking views of the<br />
surrounding snow-capped mountains.<br />
While some of the best ski resorts are<br />
in Hokkaido, the Zao Ski Resort in Honshu<br />
is unique as you can ski past the “snow<br />
monsters”. More about Zao and its “snow<br />
monsters” later.<br />
6. ICE AND ICICLES<br />
Along with the cold winter temperatures<br />
come the ice and icicles. One of the<br />
most accessible places to showcase this<br />
beautiful winter phenomenon in Japan<br />
is in Misotsuchi. Here gigantic icicles are<br />
created by water flowing over the cliffs<br />
located upstream from the waterfall in the<br />
Chichibu area of Saitama Prefecture, just<br />
over 100 kilometres (62 mi) northwest of<br />
Tokyo.<br />
Nearby is the Onouchi Hyakkei Icicle<br />
Park in Ogano and the Ashigakubo Icicles<br />
which are artificially created when water<br />
is sprayed over the trees in the frigid cold,<br />
resulting in wildly shaped ice crusts on the<br />
branches. If you are here on weekends during<br />
January and February, you will see the<br />
special lighting that mystically illuminates<br />
the icicles.<br />
Some of the many other places to see<br />
icicles are at Gouradani, also known as<br />
Nanshoga near Shojidake in Fukuoka<br />
Prefecture, and the fir trees of Zao Onsen<br />
in Yamagata Prefecture.<br />
7. WINTER ILLUMINATIONS<br />
The “chasing of illuminations” is a<br />
favourite romantic pastime for Japanese<br />
families and couples. Japan has no shortage<br />
of the most impressive winter illuminations<br />
you have ever dreamt of.<br />
Almost every major Japanese city has<br />
at least one winter light illumination area.<br />
Tokyo has several, such as the Caretta<br />
Shiodome Illuminations, Roppongi Hills<br />
Christmas Lights, and the Tokyo Midtown<br />
Christmas Illuminations. The Shiodome<br />
illuminations are arguably the most impressive.<br />
There are many illumination events<br />
held across the country of which the<br />
most spectacular is the Nabana no Sato<br />
of Kuwana city in Mie Prefecture. Over 8<br />
million LED lights are used to create the<br />
mind-blowing art-of-lights in the vast<br />
park where you will find the impressive<br />
“Tunnel of Lights”. Truly a fairy tale. While<br />
watching the lights you can also enjoy<br />
the local Nagashima-chi Beer and natural<br />
hot springs. West of Tokyo is the equally<br />
impressive light show at the “Lake Sagami<br />
Pleasure Forest” in Kanagawa.<br />
8. WINTER VILLAGES<br />
One of the best places to spend a<br />
night or two during Japan’s winters is in a<br />
“winter village”. When quaint traditional<br />
Japanese villages are covered in fluffy thick<br />
white snow it creates a wonderful atmosphere,<br />
especially when they are modestly<br />
illuminated.<br />
One of the most charming and rustic<br />
traditional Japanese villages to visit in<br />
winter after heavy snow, is the Shirakawago<br />
village in central Japan, a tiny village<br />
located 300 kilometres (186 mi) west of<br />
Tokyo in Takayama, Gifu Prefecture. The<br />
village is a collection of original thatched<br />
farmhouses with tall pointed roofs in<br />
the gasshō-zukuri style, meaning ‘praying<br />
hands’ which reflects the shape of the<br />
roofs. When snow-covered and illuminated<br />
it creates a scene straight from a Christmas<br />
card. The village is best viewed from<br />
the observation deck above the village.<br />
To control overcrowding, from <strong>2019</strong><br />
onward new regulations are in place that<br />
require visitors to make an online reservation.<br />
Alternatively, the villages of the Gokayama<br />
region are still mostly unaffected<br />
by mass-tourism. In this region, check out<br />
the villages of Gokayama, Suganuma, and<br />
Ainokura.<br />
9. JAPANESE SHRINES<br />
Shrines in Japan are very photogenic,<br />
in particular those with alleys or tunnels,<br />
made of many torii gates lined up in a long<br />
row. Torii gates are most commonly found<br />
at the entrance of, or within, a Shinto<br />
shrine, where they symbolically mark the<br />
transition from the mundane to the sacred.<br />
Attending a Shinto shrine when it is covered<br />
in snow is an exhilarating sight.<br />
Kyoto’s Kifune Shrine with its many<br />
torii gates is one such shrine not to miss<br />
when covered under a thick blanket of<br />
show. When the shrine is illuminated at<br />
night, the snowy fairy tale comes alive.<br />
10. WINTER WILDLIFE<br />
While you may not think of wildlife<br />
as a reason to visit Japan in winter, this is<br />
a major drawcard for birdwatchers and<br />
photographers with their big cameras and<br />
long lenses who flock to Japan, mainly to<br />
Hokkaido, during the winter months.<br />
While the coldest parts of Japan such<br />
as Hokkaido have mammals including the<br />
red fox, spotted deer (also known as the<br />
Japanese deer or sika deer), sable (a small<br />
carnivorous mammal primarily inhabiting<br />
the forest), northern fur seal, and Steller<br />
sea lion, the main attraction is the birds.<br />
Hooded and white-naped cranes<br />
are present in Kagoshima Prefecture of<br />
the southern island of Kyushu, though<br />
the biggest draw is Hokkaido. Here you<br />
can see the revered Red-crowned cranes<br />
performing love dances in the snow, while<br />
the Whooper swans (pronounced hooper)<br />
congregate where the hot springs flow into<br />
the partly frozen lakes. More about these<br />
birds later.<br />
“Planning wildlife photography<br />
in Japan? Bring your longest<br />
lenses as competition is fierce"<br />
February is an ideal time to spot the<br />
Steller’s sea eagles at the northernmost<br />
areas of Hokkaido where the sea-ice<br />
extends down the Sea of Okhotsk reaching<br />
the northeast coast of Hokkaido and in<br />
particular the Shiretoko Peninsula. While<br />
in Hokkaido, keep an eye out for the Ural<br />
owl that is active day and night, though it<br />
is primarily nocturnal. The Blakiston’s fish<br />
owl is also a resident of Hokkaido.<br />
Convinced that winter is the most<br />
exciting time to visit Japan? Now let’s start<br />
our journey!<br />
Feature • Japan | 15
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
ZAO ONSEN<br />
Onsen village known for steaming waters,<br />
snow monsters, and great skiing.<br />
While there are so many places<br />
to enjoy Japan in winter, one<br />
place not to miss has to be the<br />
hot spring town of Zao Onsen. Located<br />
400 kilometres (248 mi) north of Tokyo,<br />
the town lies 880 metres (2,887 ft) above<br />
sea level on the slopes of the volcanic<br />
Mount Zao.<br />
With a history that goes back about<br />
1,900 years, the area is known for some of<br />
the best ski slopes with excellent powdersnow<br />
conditions, hot springs, mountain<br />
scenery, and its famous “snow monsters”<br />
that come alive in mid-winter.<br />
The ski season usually starts in early<br />
<strong>Dec</strong>ember and ends around early May,<br />
depending on the snow conditions.<br />
Interested in improving your skiing<br />
and snowboarding techniques? No problem.<br />
Zao has seven ski schools and one<br />
snowboard school allowing you to choose<br />
a class according to your individual needs.<br />
If needed, English speaking instructors can<br />
be pre-booked for private lessons.<br />
To protect the little ones, Zao even<br />
offers a Ski Kodomo-no-hi (Children’s Ski<br />
Day) when children under elementary<br />
school age are eligible for a large discount.<br />
The best time to meet up with the<br />
“snow monsters” is generally from early<br />
January to early March, with February being<br />
the time when they are at their biggest.<br />
THE SKI RESORT<br />
Zao is one of Japan’s oldest ski resorts.<br />
Its 14 different slopes and 12 courses are<br />
suitable for skiers and snowboarders of<br />
all levels and are serviced by 35 lifts, a<br />
gondola and 3 ropeways. Its longest run<br />
starts at the summit of the mountain and is<br />
about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) long.<br />
16 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
THE SNOW MONSTERS<br />
Zao is one of only a few places in Japan<br />
where the juhyo (ice trees) can be seen.<br />
Juhyo can be found on a limited number<br />
of mountains in the northeastern areas of<br />
Japan with Zao one of the most accessible<br />
areas. Better known as “snow monsters”,<br />
the trees take on mystifying shapes during<br />
the coldest part of the winter.<br />
It is as if almost every tree, which by<br />
mid-winter is hardly recognisable<br />
as a tree, takes on the shape of a human,<br />
complete with facial features,<br />
blowing hair, hats, wide dresses, and<br />
limbs. They often appear as a group<br />
of people in traditional dress looking<br />
at each other or walking up the<br />
hill. While they are called “snow monsters”,<br />
most more closely resemble humans than<br />
monsters if you have a strong imagination.<br />
The “snow monsters” form around the<br />
peak of the Zao Ski Resort and are usually<br />
at their most spectacular around mid-<br />
February.<br />
The wind is blowing, it is freezing cold, and you are<br />
alone, surrounded by “snow monsters” so real that<br />
you can hear them talking in their frosted voices.<br />
There are a few climatic conditions<br />
necessary for the juhyo to be created. The<br />
trees must be evergreen conifers such<br />
as the Japanese red pines, white fir, blue<br />
spruce, red cedar or similar. The ice develops<br />
particularly fast when the temperature<br />
is around minus 5°C (23F) and when the<br />
wind is weak. Water droplets must be present<br />
in the low hanging snow clouds, and<br />
they then adhere to the trees as they make<br />
contact. Heavy snowfalls between two and<br />
three metres are also ideal.<br />
On Mount Zao, where the wind tends<br />
to be strong, juhyo grow windward and<br />
their tips turn into a shape called “the<br />
JAPAN<br />
ZAO ONSEN<br />
shrimp tail” as these unique ice formations<br />
resemble the tails of shrimps. These “tails”<br />
will build up and fill all the gaps between<br />
the branches and freeze very hard. As this<br />
phenomenon repeats itself over several<br />
days, the build-up creates masterpieces.<br />
Access to the “snow monsters” is<br />
by ropeway and a gondola fit for both<br />
skiers and non-skiers. From the top<br />
of the mountain the panoramic view<br />
over the ski slopes and the “snow<br />
monsters” is spectacular.<br />
The “snow monsters” must be seen<br />
during the day, especially on clear sunny<br />
days, as well as in the evenings when<br />
coloured floodlights light up the monsters<br />
around the summit. View them from the<br />
open viewing deck of the cafe, or from a<br />
warm seat inside the cafe. Make sure to<br />
dress very warmly as the wind can get<br />
extremely strong and brutally cold at night<br />
- ideal conditions to make the monsters<br />
even wilder and bigger.<br />
Feature • Japan | 17
ZAO ONSEN<br />
SKI RESORT<br />
708-1 Zao Onsen, Yamagata-City<br />
YAMAGATA, 990-2301 JAPAN<br />
Tel: +81-23-694-9328<br />
Fax: +81-23-694-9327<br />
A Cool<br />
White<br />
Powdery<br />
Playground<br />
Zao Onsen is located in Yamagata City in the northeastern region of Tohoku.<br />
It is one of Japan’s most renowned tourist destinations, standing about 800 metres above sea<br />
level and among splendid mountains. This traditional hot spring village is surrounded by nature.<br />
18 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
THE ONSEN OF ZAO<br />
After a full day on the ski slopes and an<br />
evening with the “snow monsters” where<br />
the winter wind is bitterly cold, there is<br />
nothing better at Zao than an evening soak<br />
in an onsen. In fact, any time of the day or<br />
night is a good time for a soak in an onsen.<br />
Zao Onsen’s sulphuric waters are<br />
among the most acidic in Japan with a pH<br />
value of close to 1 on the scale of 1 to 14,<br />
with 1 being the most acidic. These waters<br />
are reputedly very effective with rejuvenating<br />
and strengthening the skin and blood<br />
vessels, and therefore popularly known as<br />
“the beauty maker” or “springs of beauty”.<br />
More precisely, the steaming hot waters<br />
are said to aid with the healing of incised<br />
wounds, chronic skin diseases, diabetes,<br />
hypertension, muscle pains, joint pains,<br />
physical exhaustion, and a lot more. If we<br />
can believe all these claims then there is no<br />
better way to rejuvenate our tired and ageing<br />
bodies than right here at Zao’s many onsen.<br />
Zao has several onsen which range<br />
from small, old-fashioned community baths<br />
to modern facilities with various pools.<br />
The absolute highlight of Zao’s onsen is<br />
the Zao Dai Rotenburo (rotenburo means<br />
“outdoor bath”) located at the highest<br />
point in Zao Onsen town. This genderseparated<br />
outdoor bath is located right in<br />
the hot and highly sulphuric mountain<br />
streams, surrounded by lush forests.<br />
In line with Japanese onsen etiquette,<br />
you place your clothes in a black plastic<br />
bag and leave it unattended in the wooden<br />
changing room, then walk down the<br />
wooden path to the pools, totally in the<br />
nude. Make sure to take along your small<br />
white facial towel available in the changing<br />
room, which is used to cover your private<br />
parts when outside the bath.<br />
While this open-air onsen is officially<br />
closed from <strong>Dec</strong>ember to March, I was<br />
very lucky that it opened for a single day<br />
when I visited on a very snowy day near<br />
the end of January. While sitting in the<br />
natural baths, my head got covered in a<br />
thick layer of snow within minutes. What<br />
an incredible experience!<br />
Zao Onsen also offers other resort<br />
attractions including a Family Snow Park<br />
and a Snowboard Park. The resort has easy<br />
to understand signs in English, Korean and<br />
Chinese as well as Japanese, and the friendly<br />
people in the small village are always<br />
very welcoming to guests from overseas.<br />
ZAO TRAVEL TIPS<br />
Most ryokan and many hotels and pensions<br />
in Zao Onsen offer their staying<br />
guests access to their own onsen. A few<br />
of them also open their onsen to nonstaying<br />
guests for a small admission fee.<br />
Zao Onsen can be reached by air, car,<br />
train or bus. Flights from Tokyo’s Haneda<br />
airport to Yamagata airport take about<br />
an hour, followed by a one-hour bus<br />
ride. By car, the journey takes about fi ve<br />
hours, while the train from Tokyo via the<br />
Japan Rail (JR) Yamagata Shinkansen<br />
takes two and a half hours to Yamagata<br />
station from where the bus shuttle to Zao<br />
Onsen takes 40 minutes.<br />
The town has ample restaurants and<br />
several choices of accommodation such<br />
as resorts, hotels, inns, ryokan, lodges,<br />
pensions, and private homes.<br />
One of the highlights of Zao is the Dai<br />
Rotenburo outdoor bath located at the<br />
highest point in Zao Onsen town.<br />
It is open once a year!<br />
Feature • Japan | 19
Zao is one of Japan’s oldest ski resorts. Its 14 different slopes and 12 courses<br />
are suitable for skiers and snowboarders of all levels and are serviced by<br />
35 lifts, a gondola and three ropeways. Its longest run starts at the summit<br />
of the mountain and is about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) long.<br />
20 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Feature • Japan | 21
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
LAKE TAZAWAKO AREA<br />
A tranquil lake surrounded by snow<br />
covered mountains.<br />
While snow-covered mountains<br />
are synonymous with idyllic<br />
winter scenery, how about a<br />
snow-covered lake with a princess named<br />
Tatsuko standing on its shores? According<br />
to legend, Tatsuko wanted to eternally<br />
preserve her beauty but was then cursed<br />
to become the protective dragon of Lake<br />
Tazawa.<br />
To appreciate the mysterious legend of<br />
Princess Tatsuko, locally known as Tatsuko<br />
Densetsu, we continue our winter journey<br />
to Lake Tazawa on Honshu’s mountainous<br />
northern Akita Prefecture.<br />
Lake Tazawa, located near the city of<br />
Semboku which is 230 kilometres (143 mi)<br />
north of Zao Onsen, is one of Japan’s largest<br />
caldera lakes with a depth of 423 me-<br />
tres (1,388 ft). We will stop by the golden<br />
statue of Princess Tatsuko on the southwestern<br />
shores of the lake, go all around<br />
the lake, and<br />
then travel 15<br />
kilometres (9.3<br />
mi) northwest<br />
of the lake past<br />
Mount Akita-<br />
Komagatake<br />
to spend some relaxing time at another<br />
one of Japan’s most beautiful winter onsen,<br />
Tsurunoyu<br />
THE LAKE<br />
Our first stop is Lake Tazawa, one of<br />
Japan’s most beautiful areas, particularly<br />
in winter. A picture-perfect landscape<br />
unfolds when the lake is surrounded by<br />
snow, with snow-covered Mount Akita-<br />
Komagatake towering in the background.<br />
Due to its depth, there is no possibility<br />
that the lake can freeze over, even in the<br />
dead of winter. This lake has no natural<br />
inflow or outflow and as a result, it used<br />
to have a crystal clear visibility of about<br />
30 metres (98 ft). Sadly, due to a nearby<br />
hydroelectric power plant as well as runoff<br />
from farms and the highly acidic spillover<br />
waters from Tamagawa Onsen, this visibility<br />
has been<br />
reduced to less<br />
than 4 metres<br />
(13 ft). The<br />
acidity of the<br />
water makes it<br />
unsuitable for<br />
human consumption, or even for agricultural<br />
use.<br />
A large and very deep caldera lake, Tazawa is set in<br />
one of the most beautiful locations in Japan.<br />
No wonder this is also home to Princess Tatsuko!<br />
Access to the area on public transport<br />
is fairly easy. Tazawako-Akita train station<br />
lies a short distance to the southwest of the<br />
lake and is served by the JR Shinkansen<br />
and the JR Tazawako. From the station, or<br />
from nearby Tazawa-kohan bus station,<br />
take a circle bus around the lake which<br />
will stop at several of the main scenic<br />
points, including the iconic golden statue<br />
of Princess Tatsuko and the Gozanoishi<br />
Shrine with its bright red torii gate standing<br />
right by the water. Gozanoishi Shrine<br />
was founded in 1650 and received its name<br />
when the lord of the Akita Clan, Satake<br />
Yoshitaka, took a rest while visiting Lake<br />
Tazawa.<br />
The shores of Lake Tazawako.<br />
22 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
THE PRINCESS<br />
I came to this lake especially to see the<br />
golden statue of Princess Tatsuko and to<br />
better appreciate this mysterious legend.<br />
According to the Tazawako Tourism Association,<br />
there are different versions of<br />
the legendary princess. “Perhaps no one<br />
knows the ‘original’ or ‘authentic’ version<br />
because it has been orally passed down<br />
through generations” the Tourism Association<br />
proclaimed but shared with me the<br />
most common version of this folklore:<br />
Tatsuko, a girl from the In-nai area,<br />
was known for her beautiful appearance.<br />
Knowing her beauty would not last forever,<br />
she started to visit a nearby shrine at the<br />
foot of Mount Okurasan. She would visit<br />
the shrine to make a wish, night after<br />
night. On the 100th night, she finally<br />
received a message from the god of mercy<br />
—“Go north. Find the holy spring. Take a<br />
sip from there.”<br />
Tatsuko then disappeared into the water.<br />
Her mother was so agonised that she<br />
screamed and threw her burning torch into<br />
the lake. As the fire was instantly put out,<br />
the torch became black and soon turned<br />
into a school of kunimasu fish. According<br />
to the story, the princess-dragon later sank<br />
to the bottom of the lake and died.<br />
Today, the only reminder we have of<br />
Princess Tatsuko, the goddess of Lake<br />
Tazawa, is her golden-bronze statue created<br />
by Japanese sculptor and painter,<br />
Yasutake Funakoshi (<strong>Dec</strong>ember 7, 1912<br />
– February 5, 2002), that was unveiled on<br />
April 12, 1968. She stands proudly with<br />
her back to the clear blue waters, a figure<br />
of purity and beauty. Surrounded by snow,<br />
JAPAN<br />
TAZAWAKO<br />
her eternal beauty will remain mystifying<br />
for years to come.<br />
At the Gozanoishi Shrine is the “Katagashira-no-reisen,”<br />
the spring that Princess<br />
Tatsuko is said to have drunk from to<br />
preserve her beauty and then turned into a<br />
dragon, as well as the “kagami-ishi” stone<br />
that reflected her dragon figure. Here you<br />
can also see a smaller statue of Tatsuko<br />
sitting in a contrite pose, representing her<br />
regret for chasing after vanity.<br />
Over the mountains she walked and<br />
finally she found the holy spring that she<br />
was told about. Delighted, she took a sip as<br />
she was instructed. When Tatsuko drank<br />
the water from the holy spring with her<br />
delicate hands, she became more and more<br />
thirsty. She was drinking so breathlessly<br />
and mindlessly that she dipped her face to<br />
the water. The next moment, heavy clouds<br />
appeared over the mountains, bringing<br />
a thunderstorm. Soon, the pouring rain<br />
washed out everything and caused a landslide<br />
down to the lake. The lightning was<br />
so blinding that Tatsuko couldn’t even see<br />
herself. When it finally calmed down, she<br />
came across a shining stone that reflected<br />
her figure so she realised she was cursed<br />
and transformed into a dragon.<br />
When Tatsuko had been absent for<br />
way too long, her mother became unbearably<br />
anxious. She wandered deep into<br />
the mountains in search of her precious<br />
daughter. Finally, she found the holy<br />
spring. She desperately called her daughter’s<br />
name. The call was heard by Tatsuko,<br />
who had now become a dragon living<br />
in the waters of the lake. “Forgive me,<br />
Mother” she said. “Because I wished for<br />
eternal beauty, I became a dragon who<br />
must serve as a guardian of Lake Tazawa.<br />
I cannot return home with you. Instead, I<br />
will keep this lake abundant with fish, so<br />
you can have it every day to remember me.<br />
They are my offerings to you.”<br />
The golden statue of Princess Tatsuko at the shore of Lake Tazawako.<br />
The torii gate at Gozanoishi Shrine facing Lake Tazawako.<br />
Feature • Japan | 23
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
24 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
TSURUNOYU ONSEN<br />
Let’s shake ourselves back into reality<br />
and travel along the southern shores<br />
of the lake and then up in a northwestern<br />
direction, 25 kilometres (15.5 mi) from<br />
the princess to Tsurunoyu Onsen. Tsurunoyu<br />
is one of eight onsen, and the oldest,<br />
that belong to Nyutou Onsenkyo which<br />
is located near the foot of Mount Nyutou<br />
(1,478 m / 4,849 ft).<br />
Dating back to between 1638 and 1661<br />
when the second lord of Akita, Yoshitaka<br />
Satake, visited Tsurunoyu Onsen for therapy,<br />
visitation by the general public began<br />
during the Genroku era (1688~1704). The<br />
name, Tsurunoyu, is derived from folklore<br />
that a local hunter saw a crane (tsuru in<br />
Japanese) healing its wounds in the spring.<br />
The onsen features four baths, each with<br />
water of a different composition. In winter,<br />
the outside baths are straight from a fairy<br />
tale as this area can get tons of snow. With<br />
snow piling up around the baths while the<br />
steam rises from the milky hot waters, it<br />
is pure bliss. Unlike most other onsen in<br />
Japan, the outside bath is a mixed-gender<br />
bath (konyoku), and in line with Japanese<br />
culture, no bathing wear is allowed.<br />
It is customary, and expected, that you<br />
bring along a small white facial towel from<br />
the changing room to cover your private<br />
areas as you approach and sink into the<br />
bath. Also as expected in all onsen, is to<br />
meticulously scrub your entire body in the<br />
gender-segregated wash areas before you<br />
enter the communal baths.<br />
Bedrooms at Tsurunoyu Onsen are of<br />
traditional Japanese interior design and<br />
are quite bare, with only a small table on<br />
a wall-to-wall tatami mat as flooring, low<br />
tables (kotatsu) for when you sit on the<br />
mat, some large cushions, and a few traditional<br />
Japanese futon mattresses that are<br />
laid directly on the tatami mat. Mattresses<br />
are kept folded in the closet during the<br />
day and are rolled out in the evening after<br />
dinner.<br />
After a long day in the snow followed<br />
by a sunset soak in the steaming rotenburo,<br />
it is time for dinner which is normally<br />
included in a night’s stay. Be ready for<br />
some local food such as sansai dishes<br />
(mountain vegetables), and Tsurunoyu’s<br />
local speciality - yamanoimo (Japanese<br />
mountain yam) cooked in a pot (nabe), as<br />
well as grilled Iwana (char or trout fish).<br />
In winter, the area around the wooden<br />
buildings is decorated with many igloo-like<br />
snow huts or domes (kamakuras) with candles<br />
burning inside. Such a beautiful sight.<br />
Some of the other places worth exploring<br />
in the area include the other onsen<br />
of Nyutou Onsenkyo, Tamagawa Onsen<br />
further north, Kakunodate-Bukeyashiki<br />
(samurai residences south of Tazawa<br />
Lake), Tazawa Lake Ski Resort, and Mount<br />
Komagatake.<br />
Feature • Japan | 25
26 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Mount Komagatake reflects in the waters of Lake Tazawako.<br />
Feature • Japan | 27
JAPAN<br />
KUSHIRO<br />
THE CRANES OF KUSHIRO<br />
The Kushiro Marshes of Hokkaido are<br />
home to Japan’s most revered cranes.<br />
Winter in Japan is a lot more<br />
than snow-covered mountains,<br />
ski resorts, lakes, and hot<br />
springs. It is also wildlife, in the snow.<br />
From the hot spring waters of Tsurunoyu<br />
Onsen in northern Honshu, we travel<br />
by train northwards through the 19.5 kilometre<br />
(12.1 mi) long Seikan Tunnel across<br />
the Tsugaru Strait that separates Honshu<br />
Island and Hokkaido Island. The train will<br />
come to a stop in Sapporo, the largest city<br />
on Hokkaido.<br />
28 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
Linger around Sapporo and attend the<br />
Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) if<br />
you are here in February. In 2020, the festival<br />
will be held from the 4th to the 11th<br />
of February. The festival’s main site is at<br />
Odori Park where you will find most of the<br />
snow and ice sculptures, as well as plenty<br />
of warm drinks and delicious Japanese<br />
food. It was right here in Odori Park where<br />
the Sapporo Snow Festival was started in<br />
1950 by a creative group of high school<br />
students who started building a few snow<br />
statues that attracted unexpected crowds.<br />
You can also attend the festival at<br />
the nearby Susukino Site under the 2020<br />
theme of ‘Enjoy the Ice’. This site offers a<br />
fantastic ice sculpture show and the Ice<br />
Sculpture Contest. About eight kilometres<br />
(five miles) north is the Tsu Dome, the<br />
Sapporo community dome, where you will<br />
find snow slides and a snow rafting area<br />
where you can have a snow-ice experience.<br />
From Sapporo, board the JR Limited<br />
Express Super Ozora train for a four and<br />
a half hour scenic ride east, to Kushiro.<br />
Kushiro is best known for the Kushiro<br />
Marshes, Japan’s largest marshland that is<br />
a haven for wildlife. The scenic marshes<br />
teem with over 600 species of plants as well<br />
as animal life. The marshes are fed by the<br />
Kushiro River which originates from Lake<br />
Kussharo to the north and slowly snakes<br />
south through the marshes for over 150<br />
kilometres (93 mi).<br />
The marshes are a big drawcard for<br />
birdwatchers as this is one of the few<br />
places where you can see the magnificent<br />
tancho, Japan’s rare, iconic, and enchanting<br />
red-crowned cranes. In Japanese culture,<br />
the tancho has a long history and is often<br />
depicted in poetry, paintings, and other
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
forms of art. To watch their elegant courtship<br />
dances in the snow is a beautiful sight<br />
to behold.<br />
At the turn of the 20th century, the<br />
tancho were believed to be extinct until<br />
a few were discovered in the Kushiro<br />
Marshes in 1924. Under a well-maintained<br />
protection programme, the crane population<br />
has now risen to about 1,000 individuals.<br />
There are a couple of feeding stations<br />
set up during winter which the birds visit<br />
in large numbers. It is hard to say which<br />
are the best, as it all depends on where<br />
the cranes decide to visit. Try the Tsurui<br />
Ito Tancho Crane Sanctuary, the Akan<br />
International Crane Center, or the nearby<br />
Otowa Bridge for a view of the sleeping<br />
cranes shrouded in the morning mist.<br />
Among the cranes you may find whooper<br />
swans and even some Steller’s sea eagles in<br />
winter.<br />
While having your own transportation<br />
is ideal, there are infrequent public buses<br />
to some of the sites, such as the Akan Bus<br />
that departs from the Kushiro Station bus<br />
terminal to the nearby Kushiro Wetlands<br />
Observatory, and the Akan International<br />
Crane Center. Taking the bus will require<br />
much of the day. If time is limited, take a<br />
taxi to the nearest site, the Kushiro Marsh<br />
Observatory (about 15 minutes / 17 kilometres<br />
/ 10.5 miles by car). The distance to<br />
the Akan International Crane Center is 33<br />
kilometres (20 mi). On the way back, you<br />
can take the Akan Bus Tsurui Line to JR<br />
Kushiro station.<br />
At the Hosooka Observatory, you can<br />
get some beautiful views of the marshes<br />
and the Kushiro River, or walk on the<br />
boardwalk at Onnenai to see the tanchos,<br />
herons, and smaller birds.<br />
Feature • Japan | 29
Kawayu Onsen<br />
Lake Kussharo<br />
Ryokan<br />
Yunokaku Ikedaya<br />
Yunokaku Ikedaya Ryokan provides comfortable<br />
accommodation with a restaurant and free WiFi.<br />
Private parking is provided. A hot spring bath and bicycle<br />
rental service are available for guests.<br />
2-6-25 Kawayu Onsen<br />
Teshikaga-cho Kawakami-gun Hokkaido,<br />
Teshikaga, Japan<br />
+81 154 832 011<br />
30 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
KAWAYU ONSEN<br />
This sleepy onsen town with a very<br />
warming heart is idyllic in winter.<br />
At Kushiro train station we<br />
take the JR Semmo Line for a<br />
one hour and 42 minute ride<br />
north to cover the 90 kilometres (56 mi)<br />
to Kawayu Onsen station. The small town<br />
of Kawayu Onsen has been described as<br />
a “geological thermal wonder” located on<br />
the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumanogawa<br />
River. “Kawa” means “river” and “yu”<br />
means “hot water”. In town, hot spring<br />
water bubbles to the surface of the crystal<br />
clear river. The town offers a variety of ryokan<br />
(traditional Japanese inn), minshuku<br />
(Japanese-style bed and breakfasts), hotels,<br />
and several quaint restaurants.<br />
One of the best ways to enjoy a cold<br />
winter’s night at Kawayu Onsen is to soak<br />
in a pool that you dug by yourself while<br />
watching the warm mist from the river<br />
rising slowly into the air. Head for the Sennin-buro<br />
river bath. “Sennin” means “one<br />
thousand people” and “buro” is a bath.<br />
“Sennin” also means “mountain man” or<br />
“immortal mountain hermit”, a mysterious<br />
character that lives in the mountains. This<br />
large natural hot bath measures about 40<br />
metres (131 ft) by 15 metres (49 ft) with a<br />
depth of 60 centimetres (24 in) on average.<br />
The hot water fountains at the bath are<br />
about 70 degrees Celsius (158 Fahrenheit)<br />
as they emerge from the ground, but are<br />
then cooled down by the cold river water<br />
to about 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit).<br />
Depending on the river flows, the<br />
water temperature varies, so you can walk<br />
around the bath and find a comfortable<br />
water temperature. On some days the<br />
bathing area is lit with lamps and strings of<br />
small lights.<br />
The town also has a few free foot-baths<br />
right by the side of the street which is a<br />
nice way to warm up your cold feet.<br />
Just over three kilometres (1.9 mi) west<br />
of the town are the Iozan sulphurous steam<br />
vents that are part of an active volcano. As<br />
you approach the area you will hear loud<br />
hissing noises coming from the bright yellow<br />
sulphur mounts and the strong pungent<br />
smell of sulphur in the air. The area was<br />
used for sulphur mining during the Meiji<br />
era (1868 to 1912).<br />
Nearby Mount Iozan is a 512 metre<br />
(1,680 ft) high active volcano sitting inside<br />
the giant Kussharo caldera and is the source<br />
of the hot springs in the area, such as<br />
Kawayu Onsen. Mount Iozan’s name literally<br />
means “sulphur mountain”. The local<br />
Ainu people called it “atosanupuri,” which<br />
means “naked mountain.” The mountain is<br />
characterized as such because the surface is<br />
bare and has a reddish-brown colour.<br />
Feature • Japan | 31
Whooper swans at Sunayu, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido.<br />
32 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Feature • Japan | 33
Japan - A Winter Wonderland<br />
LAKE KUSSHARO<br />
Japan’s largest caldera lake is blessed<br />
with white-feathered visitors in winter.<br />
While the sulphur vents and<br />
hot springs of Kawayu are<br />
good enough reasons to<br />
visit the area, we came here in search of the<br />
feathered visitors from Siberia, Russia.<br />
About eight kilometres (five miles) to<br />
the west of town lies Sunayu on the eastern<br />
shores of Lake Kussharo, a large caldera<br />
lake in Akan National Park. Sunayu means<br />
“a place that sand gushes out” in the local<br />
Ainu language, and makes reference to the<br />
hot springs that ooze out from the sandy<br />
beach on the lakeside.<br />
While parts of the lake freeze over in<br />
winter, this is one area where the warm hot<br />
springs keep the lake free of ice, the perfect<br />
bathing spot not only for the lone human<br />
bather in the small rock-pool but also for<br />
the swans along the shore.<br />
The whooper swans (pronounced<br />
hooper), are one of the heaviest flying birds<br />
weighing in the range of eight to 11 kg (18<br />
– 25 lbs). The heaviest whooper swan was<br />
recorded at 15 kg (34 lbs).<br />
They spend most of their time in the<br />
Siberian Arctic before migrating as far<br />
south as Japan in the winter. It is quite a<br />
sight to see<br />
so many of<br />
these white<br />
swans on the<br />
lake, with<br />
the snowy<br />
mountains of the Akan National Park in the<br />
background.<br />
Kussharo Kotan Ainu Folklore Museum.<br />
Step inside this interesting little museum’s<br />
replica of an Ainu house, to learn more<br />
about the culture and traditions of the Ainu<br />
people who are indigenous to northern<br />
Japan.<br />
According to one of several theories,<br />
the Ainu are descendants of Mongolian<br />
migrants who entered the Japanese islands<br />
before the period 13000 BC to 300 BC.<br />
Most of Japan’s<br />
Lake Kussharo is home to flocking white swans from<br />
Siberia, as well as hot springs and omiwatari ice ridges,<br />
all living side-by-side at the edges of the lake.<br />
A little further down the road lies the<br />
Ikeno-yu hot spring, also flowing into the<br />
lake, and therefore another favourite spot<br />
for the swans. Further south on the south<br />
bank of Lake Kussharo is the Teshikaga<br />
remaining<br />
24,000 indigenous<br />
Ainu<br />
population is<br />
concentrated in<br />
Hokkaido. Note that the museum is closed<br />
between November and May.<br />
While this was a small scratch on the<br />
surface of Japan in winter, feel free to come<br />
back time after time to enjoy the beauty of<br />
Japan! GR<br />
34 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION<br />
Getting There<br />
From Tokyo’s Narita and Haneda international<br />
airports it is easy to fl y to northern<br />
Japan, either to Sendai Airport or further<br />
north to Hokkaido’s New Chitose Airport<br />
in Sapporo. Sapporo is in Japan’s northern<br />
winter-wonder-world on Hokkaido<br />
Island, however, winter snow covers<br />
much of Japan so arrive at any of Japan’s<br />
airports to experience it for yourself.<br />
Getting Around<br />
For long-distance travel it is faster and<br />
often cheaper to fly. Alternatively, travel<br />
by train, but to save significantly on train<br />
tickets, buy a Japan Rail Pass before arriving<br />
in Japan. Discounted tourist rail passes<br />
are not sold in Japan. The rail pass often is<br />
cheaper than bus travel. For small groups,<br />
it is cheaper to rent a vehicle, though highway<br />
tolls are expensive.<br />
Photography<br />
Japan is a playground for photographers.<br />
Here you will find an immense variety of<br />
photographic equipment though prices are<br />
not always cheaper than online purchases<br />
in your own country. Japan is a very<br />
photogenic country which includes pristine<br />
natural scenery, wildlife, temples, cultural<br />
events, sports events, festivals, and even<br />
perfect fruits and vegetables!<br />
When to Go<br />
While any time is a great time to visit Japan,<br />
the most beautiful seasons are spring<br />
(for the cherry blossoms and other flowers),<br />
autumn (for the brilliant red foliage),<br />
and of course winter - the most beautiful<br />
time. Best is late winter (January and February)<br />
when the ice is well-formed.<br />
Dining Out<br />
Food is the third most expensive item in<br />
Japan, after accommodation and transportation.<br />
However, when you follow a few<br />
cost-saving tips you will fi nd that the food<br />
is not so expensive. A good start to eating<br />
cheap is to avoid serviced restaurants and<br />
touristy areas. Go where the locals eat.<br />
Where to Stay<br />
Japan has accommodation to fit all budgets,<br />
albeit on the high side compared to<br />
the rest of Asia. If you have a seriously<br />
tight budget, try couch surfing or stay in<br />
a dorm or capsule hotel, some of which<br />
will only cost about US$20 per person per<br />
night.<br />
Packing<br />
Summers are very hot and winters are<br />
brutally cold. If you go to Zao Mountain<br />
in northern Honshu to see the “snow<br />
monsters” in January, expect minus 15°<br />
Celsius (5°F), or even colder. Winter in<br />
Japan could be the coldest winter you<br />
have ever experienced.<br />
Safety<br />
As one of the safest countries in the world,<br />
there is no need to worry about any aspect<br />
of security. Theft and robberies are unheard<br />
off, while safety on the roads and on<br />
public transport is better than almost anywhere<br />
in the world. Follow regular safety<br />
rules and everything will be fi ne.<br />
Cost of Travel<br />
Japan is one of the most expensive countries<br />
in which to travel. However, If you are<br />
well informed on how to save money, you<br />
will fi nd that Japan is not as expensive as<br />
you thought. Be smart and take advantage<br />
of discounted online bookings. Make sure to<br />
buy your JR Railway Pass before arriving.<br />
Feature • Japan | 35
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• Cooked Japanese style vegan breakfasts are served in the dining room.<br />
• Tea and coffee making facilities, microwave, oven, refrigerator and television<br />
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36 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
37
10 Winter Activities in Japan<br />
great<br />
Japan’s winter wonderland offers a variety of activities that will appeal to everybody who appreciates the beauty of snow and ice,<br />
and everything that goes with it. For adventurous visitors, Japan has some of the world’s best ski resorts renowned for their powdery<br />
snow. Cross-country skiing and hiking are popular in the forests. If you are into photography, you will find ample opportunities,<br />
in particular the tancho cranes and whooper swans. When it is time to relax, soak in a hot spring with a glass of hot sake wine!<br />
1<br />
Zao Dai Rotenburo<br />
Hot Springs<br />
Soaking in a Japanese hot spring is the reason why many<br />
people visit during winter. There is nothing more invigorating<br />
than sinking into the hot mineral waters, in particular when it<br />
is an outdoor natural bath, and even more special if snow is<br />
falling. Sip on a glass of hot sake and you will be in heaven!<br />
One of the best experiences can be found at Zao Onsen on<br />
the slopes of the volcanic Mount Zao, located 400 km (248<br />
mi) north of Tokyo. Zao Dai Rotenburo outdoor baths are located<br />
right in the hot and highly sulphuric mountain streams,<br />
surrounded by lush forests. This area gets a lot of snow<br />
which creates a stunning winter wonder world.<br />
2<br />
Zao<br />
Snow Monsters<br />
3<br />
Hokkaido Snow<br />
4<br />
Festival<br />
Tancho Cranes<br />
Mount Zao in northern Honshu Island is<br />
famous for its “snow monsters” that come<br />
alive in mid-winter. Zao is one of only a<br />
few places in Japan where the juhyo (ice<br />
trees) can be seen. It is as if almost every<br />
tree, hardly recognisable as a tree by<br />
mid-winter, takes on the shape of a human,<br />
complete with facial features, blowing<br />
hair, hats, wide dresses, and limbs.<br />
The “snow monsters” live around the<br />
peak of Zao Ski Resort and are usually<br />
at their most spectacular about mid-<br />
February.<br />
38 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
Hokkaido Island offers some of the best<br />
snow and ice festivals in Japan. At the<br />
Tomamu Ski Resort you will find a beautifully<br />
created ice village that is illuminated at<br />
night with colourful lights.<br />
However, the first prize must go to the annual<br />
Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival)<br />
in the Hokkaido capital. The massive snow<br />
and ice sculptures are meticulously created<br />
by teams of artists and then illuminated<br />
with thousands of small light bulbs. The<br />
2020 festival will be held from the 4th to<br />
11th of February.<br />
Whether you are a photographer or a bird<br />
lover — or neither — you will appreciate<br />
the beauty of these majestic feathered<br />
friends prancing on the snow.<br />
Japan’s rare, iconic, and enchanting redcrowned<br />
cranes, locally known as the tancho<br />
have been intertwined with Japanese<br />
culture throughout the ages. Depicted<br />
in Japanese poetry, paintings, and other<br />
forms of art, the tancho is highly revered.<br />
Congregating on the snow-covered marshes<br />
of Hokkaido’s Kushiro area, they are a<br />
must-visit during their winter courtship.
5 Whooper Swans 6 Iozan Mountain<br />
7<br />
Tomamu<br />
Ski Resort<br />
In eastern Hokkaido Island, along the<br />
shores of Lake Kussharo, a few hot<br />
springs flow into the partly frozen lake. In<br />
winter, whooper swans escape the harsh<br />
winters of Siberia to spend time in these<br />
hot spots along the lake.<br />
The whooper swans are one of the heaviest<br />
flying birds in the world.<br />
It is quite a sight to see so many of these<br />
white swans on the lake, with the snowy<br />
mountains of the Akan National Park in<br />
the background.<br />
Mount Iozan in eastern Hokkaido, is an<br />
active volcano sitting inside the giant<br />
Kussharo caldera. It is the source of the<br />
hot springs in the area, such as the beautiful<br />
Kawayu Onsen.<br />
Mount Iozan’s name literally means “sulphur<br />
mountain”, so here you will see ample<br />
amounts of bright yellow sulphur deposits<br />
at the mouths of the hissing steam vents.<br />
It looks like the mountain is on fire with the<br />
many steam vents spewing steam, and<br />
sometimes water, high into the air. It is<br />
particularly scenic after heavy snowfalls.<br />
Located in central Hokkaido, about 90<br />
minutes by train south of Sapporo, Tomamu<br />
is a popular winter resort for many<br />
reasons. It covers two mountains and has<br />
a large selection of trails.<br />
It offers a host of other activities such as<br />
snowmobiling, snow rafting, backcountry<br />
tours, cross country skiing, paraskiing,<br />
snowshoeing and dog sledding. In<br />
winter the illuminated Ice Village offers<br />
a restaurant, wedding chapel, and a bar,<br />
all sculpted from snow and ice. Even the<br />
drinking glasses are carved from ice.<br />
8<br />
Abashiri<br />
Drift Ice<br />
9<br />
Nyoto<br />
Hot Springs Village<br />
10<br />
Gozanoishi<br />
Shrine<br />
The Sea of Okhotsk coast of Hokkaido is<br />
the northern hemisphere’s southernmost region<br />
where drifting sea ice can be seen. At<br />
the far northeastern coast of the island, the<br />
sea ice typically reaches the coast around<br />
Abashiri in mid to late January and disappears<br />
again by late March to mid-April.<br />
Arrive during the second half of February,<br />
board one of the sightseeing boats, and<br />
head into the ice-covered see. Over the<br />
last few years the boats have had to travel<br />
further north to find the ice which has been<br />
on the decline due to global warming.<br />
Located to the northeast of Lake Tazawa<br />
in the north of Honshu Island, the Nyutoonsen-kyo<br />
Hot Springs Village is the<br />
collective name for seven hot spring inns<br />
located inside the Towada-Hachimantai<br />
National Park.<br />
Surrounded by primeval beech forest,<br />
this pristine part of Japan is beautiful allyear-round,<br />
in particular in autumn and<br />
winter. The sulphuric springs here are of<br />
exceptional quality and the snow falls can<br />
be heavy, which makes relaxing in the<br />
outdoors baths a memorable experience.<br />
Visiting a Japanese shrine or temple covered<br />
in snow is one of the most beautiful<br />
scenes Japan can offer. When the shrine<br />
stands on the shores of a caldera lake,<br />
surrounded by snow-covered mountains, it<br />
is even more stunning.<br />
On the northern shores of Lake Tazawa<br />
in the north of Honshu Island, stands the<br />
Gozanoishi-jinja Shrine that dates back<br />
to 1650. It features a beautiful red torii<br />
(spiritual gate) looking out over the lake’s<br />
blue waves. In winter this torii is covered<br />
in snow and is a sight to behold.<br />
Feature • Japan | 39
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40 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
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Photo location: Somewhere around Chak Chak, Iran.<br />
41
Photo Essay<br />
Albania, Eastern Europe<br />
Albania has been Europe’s most intriguing<br />
enigma while it has been closed to outsiders<br />
for much of the 20th century. During this time,<br />
the country has been rumoured to have some<br />
of the most spectacular mountains, ancient ruins, historic<br />
fortress towns, turquoise Mediterranean coves, and<br />
long stretches of sandy beaches.<br />
Not long after Mussolini, the Italian dictator, invaded Albania<br />
in 1939, the monarchy was abolished and King Zog<br />
deposed. The Communist Party was formed with Enver<br />
Hoxha, another brutal dictator, as ruler. When the Italians<br />
surrendered to Hoxha’s Communists, the Germans<br />
stepped in and occupied Albania. Months before the fall<br />
of Hitler, the Germans withdrew and Hoxha created a<br />
totalitarian regime based in Tirana, the capital. The Communists<br />
began to nationalise all industries and years of<br />
international isolation followed.<br />
Hoxha, a staunch atheist, did all he could to eradicate all<br />
traces of religion from Albania. He destroyed religious<br />
buildings and banned all religions. Even though Hoxha<br />
died in 1985, his tyrannical regime continued until national<br />
elections were held in 1991, at which time religious<br />
freedom was reintroduced and Albania slowly opened to<br />
the outside world.<br />
Albania remains free of the shackles of Communism<br />
but is one of Europe’s poorest countries with a small<br />
population of about 2.8 million. The scars of years of<br />
rule under the Communists have been slowly fading over<br />
the past 20 years. Today little is visible, except for some<br />
Stalinist statues and architecture, and the occasional<br />
sighting of one of the many bunkers built during the rule<br />
42 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Albania's<br />
Riviera<br />
of the<br />
Ionian Sea<br />
Photo: The beach at Ksamil, Albania.<br />
of Hoxha to protect against his imaginary invasion from<br />
foreign powers.<br />
The country’s abundance of natural beauty, relatively<br />
low tourist numbers, affordable travel, ethnic cuisines,<br />
and friendly people are attracting an increasing number<br />
of curious international travellers. As word gets out<br />
about what Albania has been hiding behind its Communist<br />
iron curtain, it’s more than likely the current trickle<br />
of tourists will become a flood and threaten this hidden<br />
gem with the horrors of mass tourism.<br />
With Enver Hoxha on our minds, we start our Albania trip<br />
in Gjirokastër, the sleepy mountain village in the south<br />
where Hoxha was born in 1908.<br />
From Gjirokastër, we travel southwest to the port town of<br />
Saranda along the so-called “Albanian Riviera”.<br />
A short drive further south, at the bottom of an isthmus,<br />
squeezed between the cobalt-coloured Adriatic Sea and a<br />
lagoon famed for its mussels, lies the pretty beach town<br />
of Ksamil. The entire area surrounding the tiny town is a<br />
protected green zone. The coastal waters here are truly<br />
idyllic and blessed with three small islands, the nearest<br />
within swimming distance from the town’s main beach.<br />
We end our travels through southern Albania a few<br />
kilometres southeast of town, at the ancient ruins of<br />
Butrint. The ruins, inhabited since prehistoric times and<br />
once part of the Greek and Roman colonies, are situated<br />
in a lovely natural setting. Look out for the old Roman<br />
Theatre, Venetian Castle and the Great Basilica.<br />
Albania is a gem waiting to be discovered and appreciated.<br />
Photo Essay • Albania | 43
Albania’s Riviera of the Ionian Sea<br />
Solid stone slate roof coverings.<br />
The Ottoman era houses of Gjirokastër.<br />
Bell tower at the Gjirokastër Castle.<br />
Interior of the Gjirokastër Castle.<br />
44 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Gjirokastër<br />
Defined by its imposing castle, Gjirokastër (also<br />
written as Gjirokastra) has been a settlement<br />
for well over 2500 years. Today, only the castle, its<br />
600-odd Ottoman-era houses, and its narrow and<br />
steep roads paved with chunky limestone and shale<br />
can attest to its more recent history.<br />
To the Albanians, the town is an unwelcome reminder<br />
of their former ruler, Enver Hoxha, who was<br />
born here. Dictator Hoxha ruled Albania with an<br />
iron fist for four decades but fortunately ensured<br />
that the town was relatively well preserved during<br />
his rule. A much-hated figure, he is not memorialised<br />
anywhere in this town.<br />
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the<br />
town is located in a valley between the Gjerë<br />
Mountains and the Drino River. Its enchanting old<br />
town is perched on a hill that overlooks the entire<br />
valley and surrounding mountains. The beautifully<br />
decorated old houses are tightly arranged up the<br />
hills crisscrossed by narrow and steep cobblestone<br />
streets. As tourism is slowly increasing, many of its<br />
Ottoman-era houses are being converted into artisan<br />
shops, restaurants and quaint boutique hotels.<br />
Looming over the town is the 12th century Gjirokastër<br />
Castle that was gradually built by despots<br />
and dictators over many centuries. The castle now<br />
houses ageing reminders of their resistance to<br />
Western occupation. The castle also has a very<br />
informative exhibition outlining the history of<br />
Albania, particularly life under Hoxha when the<br />
castle served as a notorious prison until 1968. The<br />
views from the castle over the town and the valley<br />
are stunning.<br />
Streets of Gjirokastër.<br />
Lake Liqeni i Viroit, near Gjirokaster.<br />
Donʼt miss the monumental three-story Zekate<br />
House with its twin towers, built in 1811, which<br />
now serves as an ethnographic museum. The town<br />
also has an interesting old bazaar. About three<br />
kilometres (1.9 mi) north of town along the highway<br />
to Tirana is Lake Liqeni i Viroit, a crystal clear lake<br />
fed by a strong fountain gushing out of the rocky<br />
hill at the upper end of the lake.<br />
Photo Essay • Albania | 45
46 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Looming over the town is the 12th century Gjirokastër Castle that was<br />
gradually built by despots and dictators over many centuries. The castle<br />
(or fortress) is now a museum and houses tanks and downed planes as<br />
a reminder of their victories over Western imperialism.<br />
Photo Essay • Albania | 47
Albania’s Riviera of the Ionian Sea<br />
East side of the Sarandë Bay.<br />
West side of the Sarandë Bay.<br />
48 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Sarandë<br />
Sandwiched between the Ionian Sea and hills of<br />
olive groves, Sarandë is a resort town popular<br />
for its restaurants and entertainment atmosphere.<br />
Located on a horseshoe-shaped bay, the hilly town<br />
has a long promenade along a few beaches with<br />
many beach bars and restaurants.<br />
While the town itself doesnʼt have the historical<br />
value of Gjirokastër, it offers a good selection of<br />
accommodation and a wide variety of restaurants.<br />
In recent years, tourism has flourished here. Many<br />
visitors use Sarandë as a base to visit nearby<br />
attractions such as the beaches to the north and<br />
south of town, the “Blue Eye” spring in the nearby<br />
hills, the Ottoman area mountain village of<br />
Gjirokastër, the ancient ruins of Butrint, and the<br />
16th-century Lëkurësi Castle on a hilltop above the<br />
town. Sarandë is also the gateway to the nearby<br />
Greek Island of Corfu.<br />
Sarandë is best described as a tourist-oriented<br />
family-friendly resort town in which to sleep, eat<br />
and take day trips to nearby natural attractions. If<br />
you want a less touristy place with a peaceful local<br />
vibe, then find accommodation at Ksamil village,<br />
just 14 kilometres (7 mi) south of Sarandë.<br />
Photo Essay • Albania | 49
Albania’s Riviera of the Ionian Sea<br />
50 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Ksamil<br />
Located at the bottom of an isthmus squeezed<br />
between the cobalt-coloured Adriatic Sea and a<br />
lagoon famed for its mussels, lies the pretty beach<br />
town of Ksamil. This is truly a beautiful spot located<br />
near the bottom of the Albanian Riviera.<br />
Even though tourism is on the increase, the village<br />
is still sparsely populated with low density housing<br />
and a couple of low-rise holiday accommodation<br />
properties along the sea and the nearby lagoon.<br />
Many of the beach loungers sipping their cocktails<br />
are day-trippers from nearby Sarandë. July<br />
and August can get quite busy here with tourists<br />
from all over Europe so the best times to visit are<br />
between April and June, and from September to<br />
November.<br />
Around Ksamil are a few interesting coves and<br />
beaches so itʼs not difficult to find a peaceful spot<br />
with clean turquoise waters.<br />
Within swimming distance from the townʼs main<br />
beach are three small islands. While the nearest<br />
island is an easy swim, the other two will require a<br />
lot more effort and risk due to strong currents.<br />
Photo Essay • Albania | 51
Ksamil is known for its coves and beaches and it is hard to decide which is<br />
the most beautiful. The main beach of Ksamil is one of the best but there are<br />
several other sandy and rocky beaches that are just as impressive.<br />
52 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Photo Essay • Albania | 53
Albania’s Riviera of the Ionian Sea<br />
The Roman Theatre.<br />
The Great Basilica.<br />
54 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Butrint<br />
About five kilometres (3.1 miles) southeast of<br />
Ksamil, in a lovely natural setting surrounded<br />
but lush greenery, Lake Butrint and the Vivari Channel,<br />
sit the ancient ruins of Butrint. The ruins have<br />
an eerie atmosphere created by a combination of<br />
the ancient archaeological monuments, undisturbed<br />
nature, and serene peacefulness - provided you<br />
visit at the right time. Due to its isolation at the bottom<br />
end of Albania, Butrint has thus far escaped<br />
aggressive development, though that is going to<br />
change as tourism is increasing in this once isolated<br />
country.<br />
The Venetian Tower.<br />
Evidence suggests Butrintʼs occupation dates from<br />
50,000 BC up to its more recent occupation during<br />
the 19th century AD. From 800 BC until the arrival<br />
of the Romans, Butrint was influenced by Greek<br />
culture. In 44 BC Butrint became a Roman colony.<br />
After a period of abandonment, Butrint was reconstructed<br />
extensively under Byzantine control during<br />
the 9th century. The Venetians took control during<br />
the 14th century when the Ottomans ruled Butrint<br />
until the cityʼs final abandonment. It remained unoccupied<br />
for centuries under Ottoman control, until<br />
Albania gained its independence in 1913.<br />
It is easy to spend a full day here and if itʼs high<br />
tourist season, itʼs better to arrive at the opening<br />
time (8 am) and visit all the main sights before the<br />
tourist buses arrive. Look out for the old Roman<br />
Theatre, Venetian Castle and the Great Basilica.<br />
The Great Basilica.<br />
The Lion Gate.<br />
Photo Essay • Albania | 55
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56 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
57
$ensible Travel Gear<br />
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I’m now so hooked on them that it is hard to<br />
think of ever changing to another brand.<br />
Get at amazon.com<br />
Banglijian Strong Elastic Sports Tape<br />
While you may not have space for<br />
a first-aid kit in your luggage, at<br />
least pack some highly versatile<br />
strong elastic sports tape.<br />
These bandages can be<br />
effectively used in case of<br />
blisters, cuts or scratches,<br />
and can be a lifesaver for twisted<br />
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Get at amazon.com.<br />
Trekology Trek-Z Trekking Hiking Poles<br />
Don’t think that walking sticks and trekking<br />
poles are only for senior citizens. Using one<br />
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The Trek-Z Ergonomic Trekking Poles (set<br />
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Developed to help you fall<br />
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The ultra-thin, fl at speakers are comfortable<br />
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Portable Safe Bag<br />
Hide any valuables, travel gadgets, electronics,<br />
gear and important documents<br />
while you’re travelling. It looks<br />
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fabric and includes a combination<br />
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sizes: 5L and 12L. Available<br />
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Coleman Sundome 6 Tent<br />
Camping is a great way to get close to nature and to save money on<br />
accommodation. Whether travelling solo, with a friend, or kids, travellers<br />
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58 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
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59
Article<br />
Svalbard<br />
Dog sledding in search of Polar Bears<br />
Spitsbergen, Svalbard Islands<br />
Admire the white-covered Arctic desert from a sled<br />
pulled by six energetic huskies. This adrenaline-infused<br />
adventure in search of the elusive polar bears is one of<br />
the highlights of the Svalbard Islands.<br />
60 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Svalbard<br />
Gateway to the North Pole<br />
Ever fantasised about being on top of the<br />
world? Geographically speaking, you have<br />
a few choices: northern parts of Canada,<br />
Greenland, Norway, or Russia. These are<br />
the only four countries where you can be close to the<br />
top of the world, and therefore close to the North Pole.<br />
While a North Pole expedition would be the cherry<br />
on the cake, many of us can neither afford nor successfully<br />
complete such a strenuous endeavour. Getting<br />
to the most northern reaches of Canada, Greenland,<br />
or Russia will require a substantial amount of money,<br />
preparation, and determination. The best option is<br />
Norway, but we’re not talking about Norway in continental<br />
Europe. We are talking about the Norwegian<br />
islands at the most northern reaches of the planet.<br />
Welcome to the Svalbard Islands. Formerly<br />
known by the Dutch name of Spitsbergen, the group<br />
of Svalbard Islands (Spitsbergen being the largest),<br />
is a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean. The<br />
name Svalbard means “cold coasts” which was first<br />
mentioned in Icelandic<br />
texts in the 12th<br />
century. The location<br />
of the islands ranges<br />
from 74° to 81° north<br />
latitude, and from 10°<br />
to 35° east longitude, and about 1,000 kilometres (621<br />
mi) from the North Pole.<br />
several of the remaining coal mines, followed by a<br />
cleanup of the surrounding areas. This will bring an<br />
end to the more than 100-year-long era of coal mining<br />
in Svalbard.<br />
Nowadays, Svalbard is better known for scientific<br />
research, polar bear spotting, North Pole expeditions,<br />
and a few tourists who want to get close to the top of<br />
the world.<br />
Svalbard is an all-year-round destination. Nearly<br />
65 per cent of its surface consists of protected areas,<br />
including three nature reserves, six national parks and<br />
15 bird sanctuaries.<br />
The islands are also home to the Global Seed Vault<br />
which is located deep inside a mountain on Spitsbergen.<br />
Here the world’s largest diversity of crop seeds are<br />
protected in the event of loss of seeds in other genebanks<br />
during large-scale regional or global crises.<br />
Located far north of the Arctic Circle, it experiences<br />
the midnight sun which lasts from mid-April<br />
until mid-August. This<br />
means no darkness<br />
for about 100 days.<br />
Winter, on the other<br />
hand, is bitterly cold<br />
when the polar night<br />
of darkness starts towards the end of October and<br />
lasts till mid-February.<br />
Located in the Arctic Ocean, halfway between Norway<br />
and the North Pole, the Svalbard Islands offer untouched<br />
arctic wilderness and unique wildlife.<br />
These islands have a long history which includes<br />
the Norse, English, Danish, Dutch, Russian and<br />
French peoples. Following fierce claims of ownership<br />
by several nations, full sovereignty was granted to<br />
Norway in 1920 at the signing of the Svalbard Treaty<br />
in Paris, France. However, the treaty gave other signatory<br />
states, such as Russia, the right to engage in the<br />
exploitation of local natural resources.<br />
The resource-rich islands also have a history of<br />
walrus and whale hunting and extensive coal mining<br />
mainly by the Russians and their allies from the<br />
former USSR. Mining was established here during the<br />
1920s, and it remains an industry to this day, albeit<br />
small. Norway recently declared their intent to close<br />
Svalbard is an amazing sight during winter. Everything<br />
is white, covered in snow and ice. The best time<br />
to visit during the winter period is from late February<br />
to late March when winter is still in full force but<br />
the total darkness has given way to some light on the<br />
southern horizon.<br />
Come along and spend a few days on Spitsbergen,<br />
the largest and only permanently populated island of<br />
the Svalbard archipelago. While based in the small<br />
town of Longyearbyen, it is easy to take day trips<br />
with the husky dogs and snowmobiles while looking<br />
for polar bears, go ice caving, and have a hot chocolate<br />
inside the Noorderlicht sailboat lying frozen in<br />
Templefjorden.<br />
Article • Svalbard |<br />
61
Svalbard Islands - North Pole Adventures<br />
Typical housing for residents of Longyearbyen.<br />
The frozen bay and snow covered mountains north of Longyearbyen.<br />
62 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Longyearbyen<br />
World’s northernmost settlement of any kind<br />
with more than 1,000 permanent residents.<br />
Longyearbyen, the administrative<br />
centre of Svalbard, is a lively<br />
Arctic cosmopolitan settlement<br />
on Spitsbergen Island with about 2,100<br />
residents hailing from almost 50 different<br />
countries. While most (76%) are Norwegian,<br />
you will also find some Swedes,<br />
Danes, Russians, Ukrainians, Germans,<br />
Americans, Thais, and many other nationalities.<br />
Most of its residents are scientists and<br />
nature enthusiasts who live in close unity<br />
under tough climatic conditions. Those<br />
who are not directly involved in scientific<br />
research, are somehow involved in the science<br />
community, tourism industry, or supporting<br />
services such as retailing, banking,<br />
education and medical.<br />
Serving as the gateway to the High Arctic<br />
wilderness, Longyearbyen is also where<br />
tourists base themselves for day trips and<br />
multi-day trips into the Arctic landscape<br />
that virtually starts right outside of town<br />
and continues into the abyss. In rare instances,<br />
the wilderness, in the form of polar<br />
bears, even comes to roam around town.<br />
While the town is tiny, it features<br />
everything needed by the residents and<br />
the small but growing tourist population.<br />
The range of services on offer to residents<br />
and tourists is surprisingly extensive, and<br />
includes a medical clinic, primary and secondary<br />
schools, a small research university<br />
with about 300 students, sports centre,<br />
a shopping mall, library, culture centre,<br />
cinema, a supermarket, hotels and guest<br />
houses, a bank, restaurants and bars, and<br />
even a few museums and galleries. In addition,<br />
you will also find a local brewery for<br />
fresh beer, a chocolaterie, and greenhouses<br />
that supply fresh herbs and vegetables in<br />
winter.<br />
In mid-winter, February, the temperature<br />
in Longyearbyen varies from -30°C<br />
to -15°C (-22°F - 5°F) while the windchill<br />
can drop the thermometer down to -40°C<br />
(-40°F). While winters are dark and bitterly<br />
cold, life does not stand still here.<br />
Among the popular winter activities are<br />
walking through glacier caves, snowmobile<br />
riding, cross-country skiing, and dog-sled<br />
safaris. All activities can easily be arranged<br />
from agencies in town.<br />
Cold winter nights are also a good time<br />
for spotting the spectacular Aurora Borealis,<br />
or Northern Lights, dancing across<br />
the skies. As winter nights are bitterly cold,<br />
you are in for a cold night outside while<br />
waiting for the lights to flare up. However,<br />
once they start to dance across the night<br />
skies, you will realise it was worth the long<br />
cold wait.<br />
Longyearbyen is not the only settlement<br />
on Svalbard. The current permanent<br />
population across the islands is about<br />
2,700 people, of which about 500 live in<br />
ethnic Russian and Ukrainian settlements.<br />
The majority of these are in Barentsburg<br />
and a few other residents in the largely<br />
abandoned coal mining settlement of<br />
Pyramiden.<br />
Among the people living in the Russian<br />
settlements, the majority (75%) are<br />
Ukrainian, but there are also Russians and<br />
Tajiks. In addition, there are also a couple<br />
of souls living in very remote locations<br />
scattered across the islands, often in solitary<br />
confinement.<br />
Svalbard Church is part of the Church of Norway.<br />
Article • Svalbard | 63
Dog Sledding<br />
Harness your dogs and head into the<br />
white horizons looking for polar bears.<br />
Dog sledding is arguably the<br />
most exciting winter fun activity<br />
that Svalbard offers. While<br />
the huskies so gently pull the sled across<br />
a snow-covered Arctic landscape, all you<br />
will hear is the sound of the eager dogs’<br />
heavy breathing and the crunch of the sled<br />
sliding through the thick snow and patches<br />
of ice. Sit back and admire the white Arctic<br />
landscape on days of dim sunlight or even<br />
at night under the moonlight or beneath<br />
the magical Northern Lights.<br />
Tickets can be booked a day or two in<br />
advance at a travel agency in town. Depending<br />
on the company you booked with,<br />
early in the morning you will be taken<br />
about 5 km (3 mi) out of town to where<br />
the dog kennels are located.<br />
On arrival at the kennels, you will<br />
meet the stars of the race. Each husky lives<br />
in its own raised wooden doghouse with<br />
its name proudly displayed above the entrance.<br />
Look out for Nanoq, Troika, Jokul,<br />
Franklin, Marfi, Truge, Martin, Hobbit,<br />
Gandalf and many more of their friends.<br />
While some dogs are shy and introverted,<br />
others will be<br />
exhilarated<br />
by your visit.<br />
Most of the<br />
dogs are adorable,<br />
and you<br />
will notice a<br />
few with deep blue eyes, even some with<br />
one brown and one blue eye.<br />
Your guide will first introduce you to<br />
the principles of dog sledding and then<br />
carefully pick your six dogs. You will be<br />
trained to harness the dogs, and also to<br />
fit booties that protect their feet from the<br />
sharp ice. This is tricky as the dogs are<br />
overly excited to start running. Hold your<br />
dogs firmly, one at a time, and place the<br />
harness around the body and then clip the<br />
dog’s leashes (tuglines and necklines) to<br />
the mainline (gangline) that connects all<br />
six of them. Once your dogs are in place,<br />
you’d better immediately jump into your<br />
bucket-sled before the dogs leave without<br />
you!<br />
With two people to a sled, one sits in<br />
the bucket or<br />
basket while<br />
the sledding<br />
partner, referred<br />
to as the<br />
musher, stands<br />
on the footboard<br />
at the back of the sled. The musher’s<br />
main purpose is to control the speed of the<br />
sled by stepping on the snow-brakes.<br />
Dog sledding on the Svalbard Islands is a day full of<br />
excitement. Let the dogs search for polar bears, but<br />
you’d better hope they don’t find them.<br />
It is crucial to firmly control the dogs<br />
because when going downhill, they can<br />
reach dangerously high speeds. Without<br />
controlling the speed of the sled, it can<br />
travel faster than the dogs which could<br />
be catastrophic. In particular, on areas of<br />
64 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Svalbard Islands - North Pole Adventures<br />
hard ice, the sled can easily slide faster<br />
than the dogs can run. It is an eerie feeling<br />
when your bucket overtakes the dogs. I’ll<br />
never forget the way the dogs looked at my<br />
scared face when this happened to us.<br />
In the unfortunate event that your<br />
bucket travels faster than the dogs and you<br />
can’t slow it down, you must ensure that<br />
you don’t run into the dogs from behind.<br />
Buckets don’t have steering wheels or any<br />
steering mechanism. The only way to steer<br />
is for both the musher and the person sitting<br />
in the bucket to wiggle the direction<br />
of the bucket with their weight.<br />
If your bucket passes your dogs, and<br />
you can’t slow down with the snow-brakes,<br />
which come in many designs, some sleds<br />
have a second option called a claw-break.<br />
This type of brake is only used in an emergency<br />
and works like a ship’s anchor.<br />
Tied to a short rope, when you plunge<br />
this iron claw into the snow, both the dogs<br />
and the sled will come to a rapid stop,<br />
which could injure man and beast alike.<br />
The final option to stop the running dogs<br />
is to deliberately topple your sled.<br />
While this will bring the dogs to a halt,<br />
it is going to be a rather traumatic experience<br />
to all involved. Should you take this<br />
option and the bucket topples, make sure<br />
to cling on to the sled for dear life. If you<br />
don’t, the dogs most likely will keep running<br />
back to the kennels with the empty<br />
bucket in tow. You will then have to walk<br />
all the way back to the kennels where the<br />
dogs will be waiting.<br />
On very cold days, you will also see the<br />
dogs are well prepared with their colourful<br />
booties, jackets, leggings, as well as belly<br />
raps for the females to protect their teats,<br />
especially if they recently gave birth, and<br />
male wraps for the males to protect their<br />
penises from getting frostbite.<br />
Just to prove how cold it can get here,<br />
do the “snow-puff ” test. Throw up a cup of<br />
hot water and see it literally exploding into<br />
drifting snowflakes.<br />
Article • Svalbard | 65
66 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Article • Svalbard | 67
Svalbard Islands - North Pole Adventures<br />
Join the Noorderlicht on an Arctic cruise to see<br />
the Aurora Borealis, whales, polar bears, walruses,<br />
reindeer and stunning landscapes.<br />
Since 1994 the ‘Noorderlicht’ has been sailing around the waters of Svalbard and Norway.<br />
During this time the ship has become an indispensable part of the Arctic area and is loved<br />
by many. Because of its small size and draft, the ship offers a great way to discover the<br />
remote areas of Spitsbergen and Norway.<br />
The ship is authentically decorated which gives a cozy, informal and<br />
nautical atmosphere on board. There is a spacious seating area in the<br />
upper and lower deck salon for a maximum of 20 passengers.<br />
It also has a small library with informative materials about the area,<br />
as well as some fi ne novels. A small but cozy bar can be found in the<br />
upper deck salon.<br />
Contact us: info@noorderlicht.nu Website: noorderlicht.nu Bookings: info@oceanwide-expeditions.com<br />
68 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Ice Caving<br />
Climb deep down into the jaws of the<br />
glaciers to see a surreal world.<br />
Around 60% of the Svalbard<br />
archipelago is covered with<br />
glaciers. Svalbard is also home<br />
to Norway’s largest glacier, the Austfonna,<br />
which is the world’s third-largest ice cap<br />
after Antarctica and Greenland, with a<br />
circumference of 200 kilometres (124<br />
mi). Located on the Island of Nordaustlandet<br />
it is 560 metres (1,837 ft) thick<br />
and the dome reaches an elevation of<br />
783 metres (2,570 ft) above sea level.<br />
Many of Svalbard’s glaciers contain<br />
endless passages formed by the melting<br />
waters in summer, creating impressive<br />
cathedral-like ice caves. When you walk on<br />
a seemingly flat plateau of snow and ice, it<br />
is hard to imagine that beneath you lies a<br />
frozen wonderland of endless caverns, tunnels,<br />
and frozen streams.<br />
Equipped with a powerful headlamp,<br />
crampons and a helmet, it is possible to enter<br />
some of these caves. Ensure your guide<br />
offers crampons and a helmet as the frozen<br />
streams in the caves are very slippery. A<br />
slip and fall on the hard ice is not pleasant<br />
and can sometimes be fatal.<br />
Entering some of the caves is not for<br />
the faint of heart. In some instances, you<br />
need to climb down a straight upright ladder<br />
and then slide down a short rope into<br />
what feels like an abyss.<br />
The extremely cold climate means that<br />
Svalbard’s glaciers are solid and safe though<br />
caverns with stalactites form during the short<br />
summer months.<br />
Just relax and enter this calm and<br />
deadly silent subglacial wonderworld to<br />
see the surreal, beautiful blue coloured<br />
stalactites, stalagmites, icicles and snow<br />
crystals. If you are lucky, you may even see<br />
1,000-year-old remnants of frozen plants. If<br />
very lucky, you may just discover a frozen<br />
dinosaur fossil.<br />
Turn off all man-made lights and you<br />
will be complete darkness, the likes of<br />
which you may never have experienced.<br />
Ice caving is often combined with dog<br />
sledding. Your team of eager huskies will<br />
take you over the vast white snow-covered<br />
horizons to the glaciers. They will wait patiently<br />
outside the cave entrance until you<br />
have finished exploring. Other options to<br />
reach the caves include driving by snowmobile<br />
right up to the entrance of the cave<br />
or being driven in comfort in a snowcat.<br />
If you are fit enough, get there by walking<br />
on your snowshoes, or by cross country<br />
skiing.<br />
While the temperature inside the cave<br />
is a balmy minus 2 degrees Celsius, on the<br />
surface it can go down to -30°C (-22°F),<br />
and much lower with the windchill factor.<br />
It is therefore essential to dress warmly.<br />
The adventure travel operators in Longyearbyen<br />
are fully equipped so whether<br />
you travel by snowmobile, dog sled, or any<br />
other way, they have the right jackets and<br />
coverall jumpsuits to guard you against the<br />
extreme weather.<br />
Article • Svalbard | 69
Photographing the arctic landscape while standing on a snow-covered glacier<br />
along the east coast is a challenging task. At -35°C (-31°F) on a sunny day,<br />
camera batteries freeze up within a few minutes. Throw hot water from a tea<br />
fl ask into the air and it literally explodes into tiny ice fl akes.<br />
70 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Article • Svalbard | 71
Polar Bear Spotting<br />
While there are about 3,000 bears on the<br />
islands, in winter you may not see any.<br />
While Svalbard is a land of glaciers<br />
and Arctic wilderness,<br />
it is also home to polar bears.<br />
Spotting the bears is not only the most<br />
exhilarating adventure on the islands, it is<br />
also the most dangerous.<br />
Around Svalbard, polar bears are a<br />
real danger all year round. When you are<br />
travelling out of town you must be with a<br />
qualified guide who must, by law, carry a<br />
shotgun. Take this warning very seriously.<br />
Don’t even wander a little way out of town<br />
72 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
without someone carrying a gun. Even be<br />
careful around town at night. Some tourists<br />
have been eaten by hungry bears right<br />
in Longyearbyen, and also on the hills<br />
surrounding the town.<br />
In winter there are at least 500 polar<br />
bears on the main islands of Svalbard and<br />
another 2,500 in the wider region which<br />
stretches all the way to the North Pole.<br />
However, to see polar bears in winter is<br />
like finding a needle in a haystack. Not<br />
only do the bears roam a very large area,<br />
but they are also perfectly camouflaged in<br />
surroundings almost entirely covered in<br />
snow and ice. If you are polar bear spotting<br />
in winter, the bears will most likely spot<br />
you without you knowing it. That could be<br />
fatal!<br />
The east coast of Spitsbergen is generally<br />
colder than the west coast due to the<br />
distance from the gulf stream. This means<br />
more sea ice, more seals, and thus better<br />
conditions for polar bears. From Longyearbyen,<br />
we left early in the morning by<br />
snowmobiles and continued east through<br />
the Esker valley and out through the Sassen<br />
valley. After almost 200 km (124 mi),<br />
we arrived in Mohn Bay on the far east<br />
coast. Here we enjoyed a picnic lunch in<br />
front of the mighty glacier face, while all<br />
the time keeping our eyes peeled for any<br />
signs of polar bears.<br />
Another good option during the winter<br />
months is to book a cabin in the 46 metre<br />
(151 ft) long steel-hulled Noorderlicht<br />
sailboat. Originally constructed in 1910 for<br />
the German Navy fleet as a three-masted<br />
schooner, in 1991 she was completely<br />
remodelled and refitted with two masts.<br />
Since then she has been operating as an<br />
expedition cruiser sailing to more remote
Svalbard Islands - North Pole Adventures<br />
such as the Noorderlicht. The Noorderlicht<br />
slowly cruises around the islands, in<br />
particular, the northernmost islands which<br />
are snow covered all-year-round and surrounded<br />
by ice, the ideal hunting place<br />
for bears. From the sailboat, the bears can<br />
easily be spotted, although she has 2 rigidhulled<br />
inflatable boats on board to be used<br />
for landings and for wildlife watching in<br />
inaccessible areas. In addition to the bears,<br />
look out for Arctic fox, reindeer, whales,<br />
walrus, seals, and rare bird species such as<br />
the ivory gull, the little auk, and the puffin.<br />
Another good option in summer is to<br />
stay in a luxury lodge perched at the edge<br />
of the magnificent Nordenskiöld glacier.<br />
The Nordenskiöld glacier is part of the<br />
larger glacier system stretching all the way<br />
to the north coast of Spitsbergen Island.<br />
Arctic locations, particularly around the<br />
Svalbard Islands. In winter, when much of<br />
the sea around the islands is frozen, she is<br />
intentionally frozen into Tempelfjorden,<br />
30 km northeast of Longyearbyen. Here<br />
she peacefully serves as base-camp accommodation<br />
for Arctic voyages, and as a<br />
guesthouse for those who want to see the<br />
bears. She will wait here until the thawing<br />
of the oceans, at which time she will start<br />
cruising around the islands, fully booked<br />
with polar bear spotting teams.<br />
The sailboat has 10 simple, but comfortable,<br />
twin cabins with upper and lower<br />
berths, a cupboard and washbasin. There<br />
are also four shared showers and toilets<br />
on board. It has a cosy communal area<br />
where delicious food such as freshly baked<br />
bread is served. From the comforts of the<br />
sailboat, keep your eyes peeled on the surrounding<br />
ice and snow of the fjord. If you<br />
are lucky, you may see a polar bear or two<br />
lured closer to the sailboat by the smell of<br />
fresh human flesh. Keep the doors locked!<br />
During some winter months, the<br />
Noorderlicht offers 7-day voyages from<br />
Tromsø, on the Norwegian mainland.<br />
During these voyages, passengers can admire<br />
the magnificent landscapes, wildlife,<br />
picturesque villages and beautiful Arctic<br />
Northern Lights. In winter, the fjords of<br />
the northern part of Norway are filled with<br />
various species of whales that feed on the<br />
herring and other fish.<br />
From April until October during the<br />
24-hours sunshine a day in the summer<br />
months, there is much less ice and snow<br />
so the bears congregate around the pack<br />
ice regions along the northern shores of<br />
Svalbard. This is the ideal time of the year<br />
to spot them, normally from a boat cruise,<br />
The Nordenskiöld Lodge, with its<br />
expedition cabins, offers wildlife spotting<br />
excursions, including for polar bears.<br />
Enjoy summer dog sledding and then join<br />
a boat expedition around the coast to spot<br />
walruses, whales, and polar bears along the<br />
shores.<br />
Other adventures offered by the lodge<br />
include guided glacier climbs, kayaking,<br />
and sightseeing. At the end of the day,<br />
relax in a steaming hot sauna! In summer,<br />
the lodge is reached by the 12-person<br />
Polarcirkel boat, and in wintertime, you<br />
will arrive on your own snowmobile across<br />
frozen fjords and mighty glaciers.<br />
The lodge offers 5 bedrooms, all with<br />
great Arctic views, ten comfortable beds,<br />
an indoor toilet, and a traditional wood<br />
sauna. Don’t expect running water or<br />
electricity, and get your drinking water<br />
by melting ice from the glacier. A true<br />
adventure.<br />
Article • Svalbard | 73
The 46 metre (151 ft) long steel-hulled Noorderlicht sailboat sits solidly frozen in<br />
Templefjord Bay during the winter months. Arrive by dog sled and stay a few nights.<br />
If you are lucky, you will see the polar bears from your window, and hopefully by<br />
then the dogs have left for the safety of their dens near Longyearbyen.<br />
74 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Article • Svalbard | 75
10 Experiences on Svalbard<br />
Awesome<br />
Located about 1,000 kilometres (621 mi) from the North Pole, the Norwegian-administered Svalbard Islands are packed with<br />
adventure, all year round. Start your trip in the main settlement of Longyearbyen where it is easy to spend a few days with the<br />
local residents while planning trips outside into the Arctic wilderness. In winter, the Arctic gets bitterly cold which is an adventure<br />
in itself. Get on a snowmobile, dogsled, cross-country skis, snowshoes, or a snow buggy and head into the unknown.<br />
1<br />
Top-of-the-World Feeling<br />
There is nothing on planet earth that beats the feeling of<br />
“I’m on top of the world”. I first had that special feeling when<br />
I was on Norway’s Lofoten Islands, 500 kilometres (311 mi)<br />
south of Svalbard. On the Lofoten Islands I also experienced<br />
the never-ending “white nights” when the sun is high up and<br />
bright 24 hours a day.<br />
Here on the Svalbard Islands, the sun hardly peeks out<br />
above the horizon during the day in winter. At night, it goes<br />
down to make way for the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis)<br />
to paint the skies in soft hues of green and blue. The silence<br />
of the never-ending snow-covered landscape is so surreal.<br />
2 Polar Bear Spotting 3 Dog Sledding 4 Snowmobiling<br />
There are an estimated 3,000 polar bears<br />
(which by far exceeds the human population)<br />
roaming the Svalbard archipelago<br />
and the surrounding Arctic Ocean and the<br />
Barents Sea.<br />
While humans are constantly reminded<br />
to be prepared for an encounter with the<br />
bears anywhere in Svalbard, they are not<br />
easy to spot. They are endangered and<br />
protected by law, so there are no polar<br />
bear safaris. Head out by snowmobile<br />
and dogsled and hope you can spot them,<br />
without becoming their lunch.<br />
76 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
While dog sledding is the more adventurous,<br />
albeit risky way to find the polar<br />
bears, it is also one of the most thrilling<br />
adventures you can take in this snow and<br />
ice-covered landscape. If you love dogs,<br />
in particular huskies, then this is an adventure<br />
you should not miss.<br />
The dogs are very loving of their human<br />
visitors, and enjoy the ride as much as<br />
their guests. Once harnessing is completed,<br />
you’d better quickly jump in the bucket<br />
before the dogs leave without you. Enjoy<br />
the ride and stay upright.<br />
One of the safest ways to search for the<br />
bears is by snowmobile. At least, your<br />
getaway vehicle is faster and more reliable<br />
than the huskies and their sled.<br />
Tour operators from Longyearbyen provide<br />
a heavy-duty snowmobile suit, boots,<br />
mittens, helmet, goggles and balaclava.<br />
In winter it can be bitterly cold when driving<br />
on the snowmobile and any exposed<br />
skin will freeze in a few seconds. Routes<br />
include a 100 km trip to the east coast<br />
where bears often congregate on the drifting<br />
sea ice in search of leopard seals.
5 Ice Caving 6 Northern Lights 7 Glacier Hiking<br />
Another unforgettable and unrivalled<br />
experience of Svalbard is getting close-up<br />
to the glaciers. Svalbard is blessed with<br />
some of the most impressive glaciers,<br />
though in winter you can walk on a glacier<br />
without knowing it, as everything is covered<br />
in thick snow.<br />
If you come across a hole in the snow, with<br />
a ladder leading into the abyss, your adventure<br />
starts! Down below, follow the meltwater<br />
channels through the moraine. Under tons<br />
of ice and snow, you will be surrounded by a<br />
landscape consisting of ice and stalactites.<br />
Seeing the Northern Lights (aurora borealis)<br />
is on many travellers’ bucket lists.<br />
During the polar night from November to<br />
February, there is no daylight in Svalbard,<br />
which makes it the ideal location to see<br />
these lights fi lling the polar skies.<br />
Svalbard is one of the few places on earth<br />
where you can see the Northern Lights<br />
during daytime hours, when there is no<br />
sunlight from November to February. In<br />
October and February you can enjoy the<br />
blue Arctic light during the day and the<br />
Northern Lights at night. Amazing!<br />
Svalbard is covered by eight ice caps, and<br />
several glaciers. Some operators out of<br />
Longyearbyen offer hiking on the heavily<br />
crevassed Nordenskiöld Glacier. Here you<br />
can hike, while roped to your buddies, up<br />
and down the glacier, staring down the<br />
massive cracks, and enjoying the shiny<br />
glacier surface.<br />
Other ways to see the glaciers are to go<br />
where they are protruding from the snow,<br />
descending into the glacier caves, or by<br />
kayaking in icy waters to get up close. All<br />
are spectacular!<br />
8 The Noorderlicht 9 Longyearbyen 10 Summer Fun<br />
Constructed in 1910 for the German Navy<br />
fl eet, the 46 metre (151 ft) long steel-hulled<br />
Noorderlicht sailboat sits solidly frozen in<br />
Templefjord Bay during the winter months.<br />
Here she peacefully serves as base-camp<br />
accommodation for Arctic voyages, and<br />
as a guesthouse for those who want to<br />
see the polar bears. Arrive by dog sled or<br />
snowmobile and stay a few nights. If you<br />
are lucky, you will see the bears from your<br />
window. During summer, the boat cruises<br />
around the islands and offers a perfect way<br />
to see the bears on ice-covered areas.<br />
Longyearbyen is a lively, cosmopolitan<br />
Arctic settlement on Spitsbergen Island,<br />
the main centre of the Svalbard<br />
Islands. This is where many of Svalbard’s<br />
residents live, with most of them being<br />
scientists, nature enthusiasts, and those<br />
in service industries such as shops, travel<br />
operators, and a few others.<br />
Longyearbyen serves as gateway to the<br />
High Arctic wilderness. While the town is<br />
very small, it provides everything needed<br />
by the residents and the small but growing<br />
tourist population.<br />
While visiting the Svalbard Islands during<br />
the winter months is an adventure you<br />
won’t get anywhere else, summers offer a<br />
very different kind of experience.<br />
During summer, daylight is 24 hours long,<br />
so you can explore the islands non-stop.<br />
This is also the best time to spot polar<br />
bears, as there is less snow, and icy<br />
areas where they can hunt for seals. With<br />
less snow coverage, more of the glaciers<br />
are visible than in winter when everything<br />
is covered in snow. Summer is also the<br />
time to see a wider variety of wildlife.<br />
Article • Svalbard | 77
Overtourism<br />
The Earth<br />
is calling us to action<br />
For billions and billions of<br />
years our planet Earth has<br />
whizzed quite happily around<br />
the sun. Sure there’s been<br />
tectonic collisions, ages of ice, volcanic<br />
eruptions, but that’s how ecosystems and<br />
diversity have evolved over millions of<br />
years - very slowly. Yet in the last 70 years<br />
all that has changed - the hand of man has<br />
brought about radical and unprecedented<br />
transformation.<br />
By Fuchsia Sims, Adventure Junky<br />
Fuchsia is the co-founder of Adventure Junky, an app<br />
that makes a game of sustainable travel practices,<br />
awarding you points for completing or contributing<br />
low-impact experiences and showcasing destinations<br />
and travel operators that offer them. Friends can play<br />
against one another, or you can compete globally for the<br />
Eco bragging rights of #1 Adventure Junky on earth.<br />
In 1950 only 25 million people crossed<br />
international borders, and being an explorer<br />
was seen as a risky career not hobby nor<br />
luxury. Last year 1.4 billion people crossed<br />
international borders. That’s almost 4 million<br />
people going on a holiday every single day!<br />
Today mass and mainstream exploration<br />
has officially erupted, stretching<br />
far and wide across the globe. Thanks to<br />
cheaper air fares, rising incomes, social<br />
media’s ability to fuel ‘Instagramable” locations<br />
and FOMO - who knows how much<br />
longer you’ll be able to see a Polar Bear in<br />
the wild, or visit the Maldives while they’re<br />
above water.<br />
What’s even more frightening is that<br />
by 2030 today’s travellers are set to double!<br />
Even today, many places can no longer<br />
cope or escape their own popularity, so we<br />
must ask the hard questions - are our environments<br />
and cultures resilient enough to<br />
withstand the stampede?<br />
There are plenty of examples to show<br />
they are not - from overtourism, cultural<br />
erosion, plastic waste, rapidly rising C02<br />
emissions, wildlife exploitation to mass<br />
and irreversible habitat loss. All of which<br />
negatively impact the lives of locals and the<br />
authenticity and quality of your experience<br />
as a traveller.<br />
78 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
Adventure Junky - adventurejunky.earth<br />
Now it’s not all doom and gloom, when<br />
managed well travel is an incredibly powerful<br />
force - it creates jobs, attracts investment<br />
and drives infrastructure development.<br />
Sustainable and regenerative travel<br />
practices improve livelihood, education<br />
levels and quality of life for local people. It<br />
can also refocus energy and action towards<br />
conservation, helping preserve cultural<br />
traditions and protect wildlife.<br />
Travel must contribute as much to the<br />
wellbeing of the people and places we visit<br />
- as to our own.
To achieve this win-win when we travel<br />
we must reframe our mindset, behaviours,<br />
practices and expectations. We must take<br />
accountability for our impact on the world<br />
we love exploring. We cannot rely on government<br />
or grassroots, cruise lines, airlines<br />
or other travel business to do the right<br />
thing, we must be the eyes and ears on the<br />
ground. It is our responsibility to take part<br />
in and promote healthy travel experiences<br />
because our choices are fast become a vote<br />
for the future of this planet.<br />
Here are ‘Seven Commandments’ to<br />
follow if you truly are on a mission to<br />
answer earth’s call to action, and become a<br />
more responsible and sustainable traveller:<br />
1. Become an Offsetter<br />
It’s ironic that as passionate travellers<br />
with a deeper appreciation of the beauty<br />
of our planet than most, that through our<br />
travels we producing roughly 3x the CO2<br />
emissions of the average citizen.<br />
Tourism accounts for 8% of global CO2<br />
emissions, with long haul flights being the<br />
major contributor. To put this into perspective,<br />
an individual flying from Sydney<br />
to London return generates approximately<br />
6 metric tonnes of CO2 - this is more than<br />
the entire annual emissions of the average<br />
Italian and is enough to melt a staggering<br />
18 square meters of Arctic sea ice forever.<br />
Go climate positive today, sign up here<br />
to offset your personal and travel emissions<br />
at www.adventurejunky.earth/offset.<br />
2. Explore Your Own Backyard<br />
Keep an eye out closer to home. When<br />
you start looking you’ll likely be amazed by<br />
what is around you. It’s good to stay close<br />
for a few reasons. Firstly you’ll probably<br />
travel and get out on your weekends more<br />
often, get to meet and support local businesses.<br />
Also you’ll lower your travel footprint<br />
on the environment. I’m not saying<br />
don’t ever travel far, just mix it up. Travel<br />
helps us grow and develop as individuals,<br />
it’s important to experience other places<br />
and cultures. But we all need to start understanding<br />
there is a real impact behind our<br />
choices if we really hope to help the Earth.<br />
3. Refuse, Reduce, Recycle<br />
Travel is an enormous generator of<br />
waste from food to plastic. I don’t know<br />
about you but I definitely feel guilty when<br />
I look around at all the single use items<br />
when I fly. So I always carry my trusted<br />
cup and thermos, sometimes I’m even<br />
known to have a spork in my bag. This<br />
really is about changing you patterns of behaviours<br />
and standing up for what you feel<br />
strongly about - it is simple just say NO<br />
to single use items! This year alone over 8<br />
North Sailing - www.northsailing.is<br />
Contribution | 79
Overtourism<br />
Visit Greenland - www.visitgreenland.com<br />
million tonnes of plastic waste has been<br />
dumped in the ocean. It is also important<br />
to note that when we travel to less developed<br />
countries one of the biggest problems<br />
they face is adequate waste management<br />
and recycling systems - so please be more<br />
aware and play a positive role.<br />
4. Know thy Operator<br />
Researching as much as you can about<br />
your tour operator and the region they<br />
operate in is a massive way to leave a positive<br />
impact in the wake of ones travels.<br />
There are some remarkable tour operators<br />
out there in the world, that work hard every<br />
single day to not only ensure that you<br />
have a safe and sensational experience,<br />
but that the people and places they work<br />
around are taken care of. From ice climbing<br />
companies who’ve set up initiatives<br />
to train local women to guide, to gigantic<br />
schooner sailing boats that have had their<br />
engines rebuilt to be electric which not<br />
only help the environment but removes<br />
noise pollution for whales, to family owed<br />
rafting companies who have been protecting<br />
their river for several generations.<br />
Th e back ground stories and initiatives<br />
some companies are working on are often<br />
hidden so dive in deep and be sure you are<br />
supporting the right one.<br />
You’ll find over a thousand of these<br />
types of adventures on the Adventure<br />
Junky App.<br />
5 Take the Path Less Travelled<br />
Avoid the mass and mainstream at all<br />
cost. Walk off the beaten path, visit places<br />
you have never head of or the places you<br />
have off peak season.<br />
6. Return to Nature<br />
Deep with in our DNA is a desire to<br />
reconnect. But we’ve come so far from our<br />
origins that we now call it an ‘adventure’ to<br />
step back into nature… Be sure to wander<br />
where the WiFi is weak, you cant help<br />
but find a better connection. Let nature<br />
recharge your long life battery - unplug,<br />
be present, open your mind and break<br />
away from tech tunnel vision and burnout.<br />
Finding places on earth with no reception<br />
is rare, the new form of luxury, enjoy those<br />
moments as often as possible.<br />
7. Local Wisdom and Knowledge<br />
Some of the richest, more meaningful<br />
travel experiences come with genuine cultural<br />
exchange. Meeting the locals, learning,<br />
sharing and immersing into their way<br />
of life almost becoming a ‘tourist in camouflage’<br />
is the greatest way to travel. Finding<br />
opportunities to directly engage with the<br />
local people when it comes to buying food<br />
and gifts also helps keeps money within<br />
their community and helps provide a circular<br />
economy. Wherever possible you should<br />
strive to support ethical businesses, brands<br />
and craftsman. Personally spending time<br />
with the Yolngu people of Arnhem Land<br />
or sitting with a Himba Tribe in Namibia,<br />
have been some of my most rewarding and<br />
memorable experiences.<br />
Finally I encourage you to join our<br />
tribe, become an Adventure Junky.<br />
An Adventure Junky is a conscious and<br />
mindful traveller. They see the advantage<br />
of small groups versus mass tours. They<br />
aim to leave the community and environment<br />
with a net gain. They look for opportunities<br />
to give back, to learn, to buy local,<br />
80 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
to travel lightly and respectfully. They want<br />
to share their experiences and educate others<br />
what they learn along the way.<br />
Remember, you’re not just one traveller,<br />
you’re a growing 1.4 billion of them!<br />
Imagine if we all travelled with passion,<br />
purpose and a common goal - we’d not<br />
only combat the negative effects and challenges<br />
tourism faces, we’d also ensure there<br />
is a diverse and thriving planet for future<br />
generations to explore.<br />
About Fuchsia Claire Sims<br />
By age ten, Fuchsia had visited 30 countries and knew how to say ‘I’m a vegetarian’<br />
in 12 languages. After school she ran away to the jungles of Costa Rica, where she<br />
worked as a river guide, helping troubled youth re-build their self-esteem.<br />
Having spent the past decade juggling marketing and mountains, Fuchsia has found<br />
her calling as co-founder of the Adventure Junky App. In <strong>2019</strong> Fuchsia embarked on<br />
a PhD expedition, her focus: AI enabled Adventure Travel to help adventurers create<br />
a more positive personal impact. Fuchsia is on a mission to transform the future of<br />
adventure travel and enhance the overall wellbeing of our planet and society.<br />
More about Fuchsia at www.linkedin.com/in/fuchsiasims<br />
About Adventure Junky<br />
Earth’s Sustainable Travel Game<br />
Adventure Junky is a community of<br />
conscious and responsible travellers, tour<br />
operators and destination managers, committed<br />
to making tourism a force for good.<br />
The Adventure Junky App (available<br />
on iPhone and Android) is more than fun<br />
and games, the app is an ecosystem<br />
for leaders in sustainability - travellers,<br />
destinations, operators, gear suppliers or<br />
apparel companies alike, who are combining<br />
forces to achieve greater good.<br />
Adventure Junky aims to infl uence the<br />
future of travel through:<br />
1. Readily accessible, sustainable<br />
travel experiences. The free Adventure<br />
Junky App currently features over 1,300<br />
adventures in 100+ countries, handpicked<br />
for their low impact and high<br />
experience.<br />
2. By turning Sustainable Travel into a<br />
game - for the environment, not the ego -<br />
we helping nudge travellers towards their<br />
goals and educate and reward them with<br />
fun along the way.<br />
3. Offering practical solutions to the<br />
most pressing problems arising from tourism<br />
- such as overtourism and CO2 emissions<br />
– through awareness and education<br />
programs and direct initiatives.<br />
Find out more at:<br />
www.adventurejunky.earth<br />
Lirrwi Tourism - www.lirrwitourism.com.au<br />
Contribution | 81
Mauritius island: Part 2<br />
Districts, beaches, islets, shopping<br />
Indian ocean<br />
Words by Janet-Lynn Vorster,<br />
Cape Town, South Africa.<br />
Photos by Janet-Lynn and others.<br />
In our series, Island LIFE, our Southern Africa correspondent, Janet-Lynn Vorster, takes us<br />
2,000 kilometres (1,243 mi) east of the South African coast to the tropical Indian Ocean island<br />
of Mauritius. In the 1st part of her article <strong>GlobeRovers</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> of July <strong>2019</strong> she introduced<br />
us to life on the island and took us to many beautiful spots on the island, we went swimming<br />
with dolphins and heard stories about the shipwrecks scattered around the island. In this 2nd<br />
part she now takes us to all 9 districts of the island, its islets, markets, beaches, and more.<br />
In the July <strong>2019</strong> issue we featured<br />
part one on the beautiful island of<br />
Mauritius. We focused on the climate,<br />
life in Mauritius, the botanical<br />
gardens, Mauritius Tea Route, the sugar<br />
industry, and swam with the dolphins. We<br />
added tips for travellers and piqued your<br />
curiosity on a few more topics.<br />
In this second part on Mauritius, we<br />
look at Mauritius, district by district, each<br />
with a few of its main attractions and<br />
beaches. We discover a few of the islets<br />
around Mauritius and give some ideas of<br />
where to shop and which bazaars to visit.<br />
We wrap it up with useful information on<br />
how to negotiate with the local taxi drivers.<br />
Mauritius boasts ten 18-hole and three<br />
9-hole golf courses. It also boasts what is<br />
claimed to be the longest zipline in the<br />
world. So, while a peaceful island, it has<br />
enough to keep the sports enthusiasts and<br />
thrill seekers happy too.<br />
“Mauritius was made first<br />
and then heaven.”<br />
Mark Twain<br />
Indian Ocean<br />
Mauritius<br />
Island<br />
Fast Facts: Mauritius<br />
Size:<br />
2,040 sq. km (790 sq. mi)<br />
Ethnicity:<br />
Multi-ethnic, descended from India, Africa, Chinese and Europe (mostly France)<br />
Official language; English<br />
Most spoken language: 84% Creole, 5.3% Bhojpuri-Hindustani, 3.6% French and 14.4% others (including English)<br />
Religion: Hinduism is the major religion (48.54%), followed by Roman Catholic (26.26%), Islam (17.30%),<br />
other Christian (5.54%) and Buddhism (0.18%)<br />
Population: 1.265 million (2017)<br />
Life expectancy: 74.40 years (2016)<br />
Fertility rate: 1.40 births per woman (2016)<br />
Population growth: 0.1% annual change (2017); among the lowest population growth rates in the developing world<br />
Malaria status: Mosquitoes, but no malaria<br />
Electrical Standards: Electrical current is 220/50 (volts/hz). UK Style Adaptor Plug and European Style Adaptor Plug.<br />
Grounding Adaptor Plugs C, D<br />
Per capita income: Mauritius is seen as a model of stability and economic prosperity<br />
Coastline:<br />
177 km<br />
Agricultural land: 43.8%<br />
Forest: 17.3%<br />
Highest point: Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire: 828 m<br />
Natural resources: Arable land, fish<br />
National bird: Dodo. This flightless bird is now extinct<br />
National Flower: Trochetia Boutoniana (Boucle d’Oreille or Earring tree)<br />
82 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Island LIFE<br />
Mauritius, Indian Ocean<br />
The Districts of Mauritius<br />
We travel anti-clockwise around Mauritius<br />
and first visit the Rivière du Rempart<br />
area in the north before we travel along<br />
the west coast to Port Louis and down to<br />
Moka, Plaines Wilhems and the Black River.<br />
From here we went to the far south to<br />
the Savanne District that is one of the most<br />
scenic, unspoilt and least populated areas<br />
on the island. We conclude our trip around<br />
the island in the areas of Grand Port and<br />
Flacq on the eastern side of Mauritius.<br />
The North:<br />
Rivière du Rempart Area<br />
The northern part of the island is<br />
popular for its languid, lazy, beach holidays.<br />
The sea is calm and beaches plentiful.<br />
For the more adventurous, it is great<br />
for snorkelling, sailing, diving, kitesurfing<br />
or visiting the many islands close to the<br />
main island. Yemaya Adventures offers sea<br />
kayaking, mountain biking, hiking and<br />
team building activities for all levels, with<br />
complete respect towards nature preservation.<br />
Glass bottom boats are popular and are<br />
a fun way to observe and photograph the<br />
beautiful, colourful fish.<br />
If rum is your drink of choice, pay a<br />
visit to Litchquor Ltd (Lychee and liqueur)<br />
in Petit Raffray, where the best rums on<br />
the island are sourced and outstanding<br />
premium spirits created.<br />
Château de Labourdonnais, surrounded<br />
by its beautiful orchards, was<br />
built between 1856 and 1859, and re-<br />
Photo: Dominique De Saint Clair<br />
Tortoises on nearby Rodrigues Island<br />
stored between 2006 and 2010. It is now<br />
a museum. Visit the museum to discover<br />
the nineteenth century Mauritian lifestyle<br />
and history, as well as the cuisine. I have it<br />
from a trustworthy source that Distillerie<br />
de Labourdonnais distils the best rum on<br />
the island!<br />
In the area of Roches Noires, many<br />
caves and numerous lava tubes connect to<br />
the sea, with their cool freshwater springs<br />
where swimming and snorkelling among<br />
colourful fish can be experienced. Take<br />
water and a hat – both essential items in<br />
Mauritius.<br />
Photo: Dominique De Saint Clair<br />
Grand Baie Public Beach<br />
Island LIFE • Mauritius |<br />
83
Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster<br />
Grand Baie Yacht Club<br />
Photo: Kim Tempest<br />
Dining on the beach<br />
Photo: Dominique De Saint Clair<br />
Notre-Dame Auxiliatrice de Cap Malheureux, commonly known as the “Red-roof Church”<br />
84 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
In October during Diwali, take a night<br />
drive through Triolet to see the beautiful<br />
lights. Triolet is not only the longest village<br />
on the island, but also home to the oldest<br />
Hindu temple, the Maheswarnath Mandir.<br />
Please respect sacred places when visiting.<br />
Cover exposed skin well and remove all<br />
leather objects.<br />
For vibrant night life, Grand Baie is the<br />
place to be.<br />
The West:<br />
Port Louis, Moka, Plaines Wilhems and<br />
Black River<br />
Port Louis is a must-visit for its history,<br />
culture and shopping. This city, founded in<br />
1735 by the French governor and pioneer<br />
Bertrand-François Mahé de La Bourdonnais,<br />
is the administrative and business<br />
capital of Mauritius.<br />
Visit the central market, Champ de<br />
Mars (the oldest race course in the southern<br />
hemisphere), the Government House<br />
(one of the oldest buildings in Port Louis),<br />
Port Louis Theatre, the Citadel of Port<br />
Louis (Fort Adelaide), the Caudan Waterfront,<br />
the Rajiv Gandhi Centre and more.<br />
Near Port Louis, is the Pieter Both, 820<br />
metres high, with its distinctive crowning<br />
round rock which appears perilously balanced.<br />
Hike up these mountains close to<br />
Port Louis for the most incredible views!<br />
Ever heard of Green Island Rum?<br />
Synonymous for many with Mauritius, a<br />
visit to International Distillers (Mauritius)<br />
LTD in Plaine Lauzun, an industrial area<br />
located in Port Louis, will have friends and<br />
family green with envy.<br />
The west and southwest coasts of<br />
Mauritius are the driest areas on the island.<br />
However, inland, in stark contrast, is the<br />
lush Black River Gorges National Park.<br />
Spend the day visiting Casela and Gros<br />
Cailloux, both near Albion, between Port<br />
Louis and Flic en Flac. These parks have many<br />
adventurous activities from which to choose.<br />
The much-photographed Pointe aux<br />
Caves lighthouse is perched on the cliffs<br />
at Albion. It stands 30 meters high and<br />
consists of four floors. Steep stairs lead to<br />
the dome and balcony.<br />
A visit in the west is incomplete without<br />
visiting Chamarel village, known for its<br />
“seven-coloured earth”, charming restaurants,<br />
rum factory and the magnificent<br />
Photo: Lance Van Niekerk Photo: Lance Van Niekerk Photo: Lance Van Niekerk<br />
Photo: Kim Tempest<br />
Chamarel Waterfall<br />
Island LIFE • Mauritius |<br />
85
Chamarel Waterfall that cascades down for<br />
over 100 metres.<br />
Plaines Wilhems is the most-populated<br />
district. This district has four Municipal<br />
Town Councils: Beau Bassin-Rose Hill,<br />
Quatre-Bornes, Vacoas and Curepipe, and<br />
they make up the heart of the island.<br />
Curepipe is one of the coolest places on<br />
the island and a good place to spend the<br />
night if you suffer from the heat.<br />
Visit Trou aux Cerfs, the most famous<br />
of many dormant volcanos on the island,<br />
as well as nearby forests, lakes and plantations.<br />
Domaine des Aubineaux, a colonial<br />
house built in 1872 which has since been<br />
converted into a museum dedicated to the<br />
history of Mauritian tea, is noteworthy.<br />
There are many beautiful hikes through<br />
forests with waterfalls in this region. Hike<br />
in the Macchabée Forest past the Mare<br />
aux Joncs waterfall and walk around the<br />
Mare Longue reservoir, or cycle along<br />
these same trails. These areas are home to<br />
around 311 species of native and endemic<br />
flowering plants and nine species of birds<br />
that can only be found in Mauritius.<br />
Always take a hat, water, food and<br />
medical supplies with you. It’s best to be<br />
accompanied by professional and certified<br />
mountain guides, and Emergency First<br />
Responders, such as Yanature. Then safely<br />
enjoy the flora, fauna and wildlife, with<br />
unbelievable scenery to photograph.<br />
The oldest golf course is the 18-hole<br />
par 68 Gymkhana Golf Club in Vacoas-<br />
Phoenix. It is the 4th country club to have<br />
been established in the world, and Mauritius<br />
is only the third country in the world<br />
where golf was played in 1844 while under<br />
British rule.<br />
Deep-sea fishing boats congregate in<br />
the bay of Black River. Charter a trip from<br />
here to go marlin or tuna fishing. The<br />
best months for deep-sea fishing are from<br />
November to April. Alternatively have a go<br />
at fly fishing or rock and surf angling with<br />
an expert fisherman.<br />
The scenery in the southwest is<br />
dominated by the beautiful Black River<br />
mountain range where Piton de la Petite<br />
Rivière Noire (Little Black River Peak) is<br />
the highest mountain on the island at 828<br />
m (2,717 ft).<br />
Le Morne mountain on the coast, a<br />
UNESCO World Heritage site and com-<br />
memorative landmark of the harsh slavery<br />
in Mauritius, is a well-recognised landmark.<br />
Local stories tell of slaves committing<br />
suicide by jumping off this mountain.<br />
The Le Morne Brabant peninsula is<br />
“that spot” where most iconic local fishing<br />
legends originate. Le Morne is the southernmost<br />
town on the west coast. It has<br />
some of the most beautiful hotels and golf<br />
courses on the island. Long white sandy<br />
beaches complete the picture. It is a worldrenowned<br />
spot for kitesurfing<br />
The South:<br />
Savanne<br />
The southern part of the island known<br />
as Savanne, is one of the most scenic,<br />
unspoilt and least populated areas. Due to<br />
its rugged topography, this region is newly<br />
developed compared to the rest of the<br />
island.<br />
The southern coast of Mauritius features<br />
wild and stormy seas. The sight and<br />
sound of enormous waves crashing relentlessly<br />
against the rocks is in stark contrast<br />
to the gentle northern beaches with tiny<br />
Yachts at Grand Baie<br />
Photo: Kim Tempest<br />
Le Morne Beach and kitesurfing haven<br />
Photo: Dominique De Saint Clair<br />
Sunset over Mauritius<br />
Photo: Lance Van Niekerk<br />
86 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Pont Naturel Mauritius at Le Souffleur<br />
Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster<br />
Pieter Both Peak (820 metres) near Creve Coeur<br />
Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster<br />
Hiking to Petrin Kiosk, Black River National Park<br />
Photo: Dominique De Saint Clair<br />
Island LIFE • Mauritius | 87
odrigues<br />
Bakwa Lodge is set along the beach of the opaline waters of Rodrigues, it lies secluded in a<br />
magnificent seascape, home to rural plains, tropical reefs and unspoilt beaches, undisturbed<br />
but for the occasional footprints. Just one & half hours from Mauritius by plane we have room<br />
for only a few, providing a choice of simple understated luxury accommodation in a variety of<br />
rooms and suites.<br />
Discover the charms of the island whilst roaming the endless routes that crisscross the countryside<br />
& coastal paths. As a guest, you get to experience this beautiful, secluded natural world<br />
with access to one of the most sublime wind and kite surfing sites. Carved over centuries, by<br />
marine life and tide influence, coral arches and deep ravines provide superb diving sites with an<br />
impressive fauna and flora rewarding amateurs and experienced divers.<br />
We invite you to enjoy the Rodriguan experience of fine local cuisine, laid back atmosphere and<br />
authenticity of island life, join us for lazy days, laughter and lemonade ....<br />
bakwa lodge<br />
Var Brulé<br />
Port Sud-Est<br />
Rodrigues<br />
Indian Ocean<br />
t : +230 832 3700/1<br />
www.bakwalodge.com<br />
e : info@bakwalodge.com<br />
88 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
waves gently lapping at the shoreline.<br />
Swimming in the sea in the south is not<br />
recommended. The beaches are nonetheless<br />
stunning.<br />
The coast has characteristic black volcanic<br />
cliffs. The rest of the area is covered<br />
in dense green jungle as a result of high<br />
year-round humidity. Walk a little on the<br />
wild side along the beaches or cliff paths.<br />
Explore hidden sandy coves and waterfalls<br />
and visit traditional fishing villages.<br />
To avoid the crowds, or to get the<br />
adrenalin flowing with something more<br />
adventurous, head to the south. The interior<br />
of Savanne has enough to keep you<br />
occupied and entertained for a few days. I<br />
really love this part of the island.<br />
Grand Bassin (also known as Ganga<br />
Talao) is a lake situated southeast of Mare<br />
aux Vacoas, the largest reservoir in Mauritius.<br />
It lies in an extinct volcano crater on<br />
the B88 Grand Basin Road in a secluded<br />
mountain area about 550 m above sea<br />
level.<br />
The Hindus of Mauritius declared<br />
Grand Bassin a holy lake and believe the<br />
water in the lake connects to the waters of<br />
the holy Ganges of India. Grand Bassin is<br />
home to the large statues of Hindu goddess<br />
Durga and her lion, and Lord Shiva. Both<br />
statues are 33 meters tall, or 108 feet, and<br />
both these numbers have huge significance<br />
to mystics and adept initiates. The Hindu<br />
community undertakes an annual pilgrimage<br />
to honour Lord Shiva.<br />
In March and April, stop and pick the<br />
delicious red and yellow guavas from the<br />
bushes that border the road near Grand<br />
Bassin.<br />
Bassin Blanc, another well-known<br />
volcanic crater, is easily accessible from the<br />
B102 north of Chamouny. It is close to La<br />
Vallee Des Couleurs Nature Park.<br />
A pairing exists between<br />
the village of Souillac<br />
and the town of Souillac<br />
in France since 1987<br />
The natural waterfalls at La Vallee<br />
Des Couleurs cascade into alluring pools.<br />
While at the park, walk the trails, drive<br />
the quads, walk on the wild side across the<br />
350m-long Nepalese Bridge suspended<br />
high above lush tropical green forests, and<br />
get the adrenalin pumping. The 1.5 km zip<br />
line at La Valleee des Couleurs is thrilling.<br />
If that zipline is not rip-roaring<br />
enough, try the 3.5 km zipline at Domaine<br />
de L’Etoile made up of a full set of seven<br />
ziplines. It is said (I don’t have the stomach<br />
for ziplines, so cannot give a first-hand<br />
account) that it is an unparalleled experience.<br />
Some websites claim it is the longest<br />
zipline in the world.<br />
Souillac, a village close to the southernmost<br />
point of the island, is the capital<br />
of Savanne district.<br />
However, the largest population in the<br />
south lives in Chemin Grenier. I visited<br />
Nishal, a yoga master and healer in<br />
Chemin Grenier, experienced his home<br />
cooking and tasted palm hearts for the first<br />
time in my life. From the roof of his home I<br />
had 365° views over the town, surrounding<br />
sugar cane fields, banana plantations and<br />
the ocean in the distance. I love the south.<br />
Arguably, the tallest palm tree on the<br />
island is alongside the main road in Chemin<br />
Grenier.<br />
Near Souillac, visit the Rochester Falls<br />
and the Robert-Edward Hart Museum.<br />
This little-known museum is dedicated to<br />
Robert-Edward Hart, Mauritian writer and<br />
poet, appreciated by both the French and<br />
the English. It was named “La Nef ” by his<br />
friends.<br />
The famous hairpin bend of Macondé<br />
is found on the Baie du Cap road. I<br />
climbed the stairs to the Macondé Viewpoint.<br />
This rocky point juts out into the<br />
sea and offers an exquisite view of the<br />
turquoise ocean and coastline below. The<br />
hairpin bend forms part of a beautiful<br />
scenic drive along the south coast through<br />
villages and sugar cane fields.<br />
Photo: Kim Tempest<br />
View from Le Chamarel Panoramic Restaurant overlooking Ile aux Benetiers and Le Morne Brabant Peninsula<br />
Island Life • Mauritius |<br />
89
Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster<br />
Beact at Île aux Cerfs<br />
The East:<br />
Grand Port and Flacq<br />
The eastern coast with its succession of<br />
beaches is undoubtedly one of the island’s<br />
most beautiful coastlines set alongside<br />
emerald lagoons. Belle Mare beach is the<br />
main attraction.<br />
Here luxurious hotels are in stark contrast<br />
with authentic villages. The east coast<br />
is exposed to the constant southeast trade<br />
winds, which reminded me a little of Cape<br />
Town – my home city.<br />
Flacq is a district in the east of Mauritius.<br />
It is the largest of the nine districts,<br />
having an area of 297.9 km², and is home<br />
to the second largest number of inhabitants.<br />
Bel Air, slightly inland, has the most<br />
inhabitants at 17,000.<br />
Mahebourg, one of the main fishing<br />
villages on the island, lies on the shores of<br />
the immense bay of Grand Port. Founded<br />
in 1804 by the French Governor Charles<br />
<strong>Dec</strong>aen, Mahebourg witnessed the only<br />
Napoleonic naval victory over the English<br />
in 1810. Mahebourg was also known for its<br />
slave market and has a painful history.<br />
Located at the entrance of Mahebourg,<br />
Château de Robillard, a French colonial<br />
building from the eighteenth century, houses<br />
the National History Museum. Old maps,<br />
engravings, crockery, pirates’ swords and<br />
fragments of shipwrecks recount the rich<br />
maritime history of the island. The crown<br />
jewel of this fascinating museum is the bell<br />
recovered from the wreck of the St Géran.<br />
The mountain-bike trail in the Bras<br />
d’Eau forest is open to the public. It winds<br />
its way through shady exotic forest before<br />
following an old railway line to the lava<br />
caves where the ruins of an old sugar factory<br />
can be discovered. Bring your own<br />
bike, or make a booking with an outdoor<br />
adventure company, or walk the trail if<br />
preferred. A special Milky Way observatory<br />
is found in the Bras d’Eau forest.<br />
The East Road is far less travelled than<br />
coastal roads in the west and north. It<br />
meanders down from Grand River South<br />
East to Mahebourg along the coast, taking<br />
you through small agricultural and fishing<br />
villages. It is a delightful drive.<br />
Under French occupation, 27 defence<br />
guns guarded access to the island at Devil’s<br />
Point (Pointe du Diable). Geomagnetic<br />
forces inside the mountain attract and<br />
move a compass dial in circles. Therefore,<br />
sailors sailing past this point named it<br />
Devil’s Point!<br />
Le Souffleur’s 30m high geyser is<br />
spectacular at high tide on windy days.<br />
However, be willing to brave a deserted<br />
road flanked by black volcanic rock walls<br />
that meanders over a few private farms.<br />
Low vehicles should not attempt this. We<br />
drove by car, but it was not wet or rainy<br />
and we drove very slowly.<br />
The longest river in Mauritius is the 34<br />
km Grand River South-East. We stayed for<br />
a few days at Laguna Beach Hotel & Spa in<br />
Grand River, a perfect spot from which to<br />
charter a boat to the nearby waterfall and<br />
to Ile aux Cerfs.<br />
Beaches in Paradise<br />
For those who want to head to the<br />
beaches to relax, swim, or just stroll, here’s<br />
your guide to beach-hopping in Mauritius:<br />
90 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
P.G. Melville Public Beach on the other<br />
side of Grand Gaube is quiet, deserted, and<br />
my choice for peace and quiet and to avoid<br />
the gravel road at Butte à L’Herbe.<br />
Baie aux Tortues, Pointe aux Piments,<br />
Pointe aux Biches and Le Goulet are<br />
beaches just north of Port Louis. While<br />
I have not visited them and not included<br />
them in my beach hopping spree, keep<br />
them in mind if you spend time in or near<br />
Port Louis.<br />
Photo: Dominique De Saint Clair<br />
Pereybere Public Beach<br />
Beach-hopping in the North<br />
Take a drive around the northern<br />
coast and go beach-hopping for the day.<br />
The beaches in the north are undoubtedly<br />
the best swimming beaches on the island.<br />
Discover your favourite.<br />
I suggest starting on B36 (Route<br />
Côtière or Coastal Road) at Trou aux<br />
Biches. From here drive northwards to the<br />
beautiful long Mont Choisy Beach on B13.<br />
Get there in the early morning and take a<br />
nice, long walk.<br />
Travel northwards. You will soon get<br />
to the Grand Baie Public Beach, where you<br />
will see many boats lying at anchor. “Street<br />
food” in caravans and food trailers along<br />
the main road is generally safe, affordable<br />
and delicious.<br />
A little further, turn off to the left, and<br />
find La Cuvette Public Beach at the end of<br />
the road. This is a small but beautiful beach.<br />
Heading back to the B36, turn left, and<br />
a short distance away you will arrive at<br />
Pereybere Public Beach. This is my personal<br />
favourite. In the vicinity are many places<br />
to eat, as well as Winners, a supermarket,<br />
should you wish to buy an assortment of<br />
goodies for a picnic lunch.<br />
Next is Bain Boeuf Public Beach. On<br />
either side are beautiful private beaches to<br />
stroll along.<br />
When leaving this beach to travel<br />
further north, you will pass a cemetery at<br />
Cap Malheureux. Park your car and walk<br />
up the small hill to the edge of the cliff.<br />
From there you will have the best photographic<br />
view of the islands to the north.<br />
You should count five of them.<br />
Cap Malheureux has a small chapel:<br />
Notre Dame Auxiliatrice. It is commonly<br />
known as the Red Roof Chapel. Stop<br />
here for a visit and take stunning photos<br />
with the islands in the background. Cap<br />
Malheureux is the northernmost village on<br />
the island.<br />
Anse La Raie Beach is next on the list<br />
of beaches.<br />
From Anse La Raie Beach, as you drive<br />
through the little village of St François on<br />
your way to Grand Gaube, look out for<br />
Studio 44 on the right. It manufactures<br />
unique, hand-crafted glass tableware,<br />
corporate gifts and exquisite jewellery that<br />
will impress the fussiest recipient.<br />
Next up is Butte à L’Herbe Public<br />
Beach, about half a mile down a gravel<br />
road. If you are looking for seclusion, look<br />
no further! I would not go there at night,<br />
though. Mauritius is rife with stray dogs,<br />
and they can get excited when running in<br />
packs at night.<br />
From here, as you approach Grand<br />
Gaube, B13 becomes B44 and then B14, so<br />
don’t get lost!<br />
Beach-hopping in the South<br />
The south is the wildest, most mountainous<br />
and least frequented part of the<br />
island. Swimming in the sea in the south<br />
is not recommended as currents are strong<br />
and winds can be fierce.<br />
Gris, the beach in Souillac, is described<br />
by poet Paul Jean Toulet as “full of terror<br />
and fatalism although not devoid of mildness”.<br />
Riambel is adjacent to St Félix Beach.<br />
They are considered two of the most beautiful<br />
in the south; unspoilt and shaded by<br />
casuarina trees.<br />
Baie Du Cap, La Prairie, Pointe d’Esny,<br />
Baie De Jacotet, Belle Ombre and Le<br />
Morne are other unpretentious beaches in<br />
the south. You will find the character of<br />
southern beaches very different to those in<br />
the north. They attract a completely different<br />
kind of visitor.<br />
Riviere des Galets Beach, comprised<br />
of black, smooth stones, is a rarity and<br />
definitely not for bathing. The sound of the<br />
pebbles rolling as the waves come in and<br />
out is quite amazing.<br />
After a long flight, La Cambuse is the<br />
closest beach to the airport. Relax under<br />
the shade trees before heading for your accommodation.<br />
Take a quick shallow dip if<br />
you must but be vigilant with children. The<br />
wild currents and wind are unpredictable.<br />
Beach-hopping in the East<br />
The climate on the eastern coast is<br />
more temperate than the north and west<br />
coasts of the island. The light breeze makes<br />
it cooler. This is valuable advice if you are<br />
booking accommodation in the hot summer<br />
months.<br />
Island LIFE • Mauritius |<br />
91
The beaches in the east are rare but striking.<br />
Belle Mare has a beautiful long white<br />
sandy beach and is the setting for some of<br />
the best hotels in Mauritius. Belle Mare is<br />
ideal for diving.<br />
Trou d’Eau Douce, Poste Lafayette,<br />
Palmar, Pointe de Flacq and Roches Noires<br />
are all beaches worth visiting. Roches<br />
Noires is reputed to be an excellent place<br />
for fishing, kitesurfing and windsurfing.<br />
Bras d’Eau is a pristine beach. From<br />
the public beach you can see both the sunrise<br />
and the sunset - unique indeed.<br />
Beaches and Surfing in the West<br />
To relax on the beach, swim, snorkel<br />
or chat to the locals, head to one of<br />
three beaches: Flic en Flac, Tamarin or La<br />
Preneuse. Flic en Flac Public Beach is very<br />
popular. Tamarin with its browner sand<br />
(due to the river mouth) and La Preneuse<br />
are a little further south.<br />
Sable Noir is the closest beach to Port<br />
Louis. Balaclava Beach, also known as<br />
Victoria Beach or Oberoi Beach, is located<br />
right next to the luxury hotel The Oberoi,<br />
one of the finest hotels in Mauritius.<br />
Tamarin Bay is a popular surfing spot<br />
with its long left-hand reef break and<br />
10-foot swells. This is where the beach<br />
babes and surfer dudes love to hang out – a<br />
“cool” place for the young ‘uns.<br />
Surfing in the west is hands down the<br />
best on the island! Le Morne is the popular<br />
place for the more serious enthusiasts to<br />
kitesurf, windsurf and surf in the strong<br />
and steady southeast trade winds. Le<br />
Morne is world renowned for its “One Eye”<br />
surf spot with its fast-left tube.<br />
Be careful of the strong currents at Le<br />
Morne as it is close to the wild seas in the south.<br />
regarding seabirds, reptiles and remnant<br />
populations of coastal species and palmrich<br />
forest.<br />
1. Round Island, 22 km north, is unfortunately<br />
inaccessible to the public.<br />
2. Snake Island has no snakes. The last<br />
indigenous snake species here became<br />
extinct shortly after European arrival.<br />
This barren rock is home to sooty terns,<br />
brown noddy- and lesser noddy terns,<br />
as well as a scarce gecko and centipede.<br />
A friend said it so nicely: “Snake island<br />
has no snakes and is round, and Round<br />
Island is not round and has snakes”.<br />
3. Gunner’s Quoin is shaped like a whale.<br />
Here you will find remnants of a sugar<br />
plantation set up by Dutch settlers.<br />
4. Flat Island is at risk of submerging.<br />
There are several 19th-century graves in<br />
the cemetery on the island. People suffering<br />
from malaria and other diseases<br />
were quarantined on this island by the<br />
British. It also houses one of only two<br />
working lighthouses in Mauritius.<br />
5. Gabriel Island is a sheltered shallow<br />
cove of sand dune vegetation and<br />
Baume de l’Ile Plate (this is the only<br />
place that this plant grows). Spend a<br />
day here. Snorkel, dive and have lunch<br />
on a catamaran.<br />
6. Pigeon Rock National Park is a volcanic<br />
plug that rises vertically out of the sea.<br />
It is a haven for seabirds. Scuba dive<br />
around this rock with its proliferation<br />
of sharks, particularly from November<br />
to April.<br />
Islet in the Northeast<br />
Ile d’Ambre is close to the mainland<br />
off the northeast coast. Although decaying<br />
and neglected, it still has some remaining<br />
Latanier bleu and mangrove forests. Swim,<br />
visit the ruins, walk through the forest,<br />
relax and have lunch.<br />
Islet in the East<br />
Île aux Cerfs, probably the mostvisited<br />
islet, is just off the east coast. It is<br />
considered a water sports paradise and<br />
has arguably the most attractive beaches.<br />
The island boasts a superb 18-hole golf<br />
course designed by famous golf champion<br />
Bernhard Langer.<br />
Islet in the West<br />
Ile aux Bénitiers, situated off the coast<br />
of La Gaulette (Southwest of Mauritius), is a<br />
large coral sand island which lies in a lagoon<br />
near Le Morne. It is perfectly safe to go<br />
swimming and snorkelling here. A boat trip<br />
to the island usually includes a barbeque<br />
and drinks on the island. For a truly magical<br />
experience, be sure to book a trip to Ile aux<br />
Bénitiers and swim with the dolphins!<br />
Islets of Mauritius<br />
While there are many little islets<br />
around Mauritius, only a few really stood<br />
out for me.<br />
Islets in the North<br />
Six of the northern islets are very important<br />
due to their biodiversity, especially<br />
92 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster<br />
Spices at a local market in Port Louis
Shopping in Mauritius<br />
There is no shortage of places to shop.<br />
I will only mention those places that I<br />
personally visited as shopping is not my<br />
kind of therapy. Take cash to the bazaars<br />
and barter to ensure a fair price. Be aware<br />
and be vigilant.<br />
• The Central Market, in Port Louis<br />
• Marche de Flacq, in Centre de Flacq<br />
• Bazar de Grand Baie, in Grand Baie<br />
• Caudan Waterfront, in Port Louis<br />
To buy groceries and other necessary<br />
items, I suggest Super U (there are three on<br />
the island) and Winners in Pereybere.<br />
Thoughts & Recommendations<br />
While in Mauritius, I spent a few days<br />
at both Merville Hotel in Grand Baie, and<br />
Laguna Beach Hotel & Spa. Both were on<br />
the beach, and both were fabulous.<br />
Most of my holiday I spent house<br />
sitting in Pereybere where I learnt about<br />
cooking the Mauritian way.<br />
I could honestly eat like that forever.<br />
I realised that staying virtually on the<br />
beach had many advantages, including<br />
not having to get to and from the beach<br />
by taxi. From one place to another by taxi,<br />
even if only one kilometre away, costs a<br />
minimum of 150 rupees (one way). Buses<br />
are frequent and affordable but being far<br />
from a bus stop can be a drawback.<br />
Without walking all the way to the<br />
nearest bus stop, stand alongside the road<br />
on the bus route and flail down a shared<br />
taxi. Offer to pay the same price as what<br />
the bus would have cost, no more, and<br />
within a few minutes one of the drivers<br />
will accept your offer.<br />
However, they will not make a detour<br />
from the taxi’s normal route. To be taken<br />
to specific places or to be picked up and<br />
dropped off at your doorstep a private taxi<br />
must be arranged.<br />
My suggestion is to stay within a comfortable<br />
walking distance from the beach,<br />
bus stop, shops and restaurants. I would<br />
personally rather spend more on accommodation,<br />
and less on transport.<br />
Public beaches are quieter than private<br />
beaches during the week. However, locals<br />
flock to the public beaches on weekends.<br />
Locals can be quite territorial regarding<br />
“their” beaches over weekends, so<br />
allow them time with their families. Locals<br />
are conservative, so expect a few frowns<br />
if you appear on public beaches in your<br />
revealing swimwear over weekends.<br />
Both respect and planning will make<br />
the visit more pleasurable for all.<br />
Some public beaches adjoin private<br />
beaches which “belong” to hotels. Walking<br />
from a public beach onto an adjoining private<br />
beach is permitted. However, do not<br />
venture above the high tide mark, as this is<br />
privately-owned property.<br />
I love Mauritius! For now, I will fly<br />
there in my dreams until I can visit again.<br />
Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster<br />
Baskets at Marche de Flacq, in Centre de Flacq<br />
Lets take the long road<br />
together<br />
globerovers.com<br />
Island LIFE • Mauritius |<br />
93
94 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
By discovering nature,<br />
rediscover yourself...<br />
www.lexillodges.com<br />
Island LIFE • Mauritius | 95
Photo Essay<br />
Oman, Arabia<br />
Oman, the gem of the Arabian Peninsula,<br />
is full of surprises and contrasts.<br />
Its natural scenery includes endless<br />
windswept sand dunes whipped up<br />
by jagged mountain ranges that cut into the clear blue<br />
skies. Its sheer-walled orange-brown sand dunes and<br />
canyons give way to lush rivers and cascading streams.<br />
The country’s 1,700 kilometres (1,060 mi) of<br />
picturesque coastline has no shortage of pristine, stunning,<br />
and secluded beaches with crystal-clear emerald<br />
waters.<br />
Rich in history, Oman’s ancient watchtowers and<br />
fortresses stand guard over bustling souqs (markets) and<br />
modern white-washed towns. Stunningly ornate mosques<br />
rise high above mud-walled villages, while donkey carts<br />
and luxury cars share the same roads.<br />
Oman’s roads are well-constructed, fuel is cheap, and<br />
there’s no shortage of interesting natural scenery and<br />
captivating villages in every direction - the ideal scenario<br />
for any inquisitive traveller.<br />
Officially called the Sultanate of Oman, this Islamic<br />
96 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Oman<br />
gem of the Arabian Peninsula<br />
country is located on the southeastern coast of the Arabian<br />
Peninsula, sharing borders with Yemen, Saudi Arabia, and<br />
the United Arab Emirates. Along its southern coast is the<br />
Arabian Sea, and to the east lies the Gulf of Oman which<br />
separates it from Iran and Pakistan. Compared to its<br />
neighbours, Oman is one of the most stable and generally<br />
safest countries for travel.<br />
Come along as we explore Muscat, the capital of<br />
Oman and its largest city. From Muscat’s old town with its<br />
authentic souqs and fish market near the Mutrah Corniche<br />
seafront, we drive to the west of town to visit the colossal<br />
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.<br />
From here we continue southwest into the interior to<br />
the historic town of Nizwa, known for its fortress, souqs,<br />
and Falaj Daris, an extensive irrigation system of falaj<br />
(a water channel, plural: aflaj) used over centuries as a<br />
lifeline to the town’s immense palm tree plantations.<br />
While we hardly scratched the surface of what Oman<br />
has to offer, this short trip is a brief introduction to why<br />
“Gem of the Arabian Peninsula” is a very appropriate<br />
description of Oman.<br />
Photo Essay • Oman | 97
Muscat City<br />
98 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Oman - Arabian Peninsula<br />
Muscat<br />
Muscat, Oman’s capital, has been ruled<br />
for millennia by various indigenous tribes<br />
and foreign powers including the Persians,<br />
Portuguese, and the Ottoman Empire. All have<br />
left their mark, so today the city’s architecture<br />
and culture attest to its rich history. The<br />
city’s old quarters as well as the port district of<br />
Mutrah, with its corniche and harbour, are of<br />
most interest to visitors.<br />
Stretching almost 25 kilometres (15.5 mi) along<br />
the Omani coastline, Muscat offers a real taste<br />
of Arabia, despite its recent modernisation and<br />
building frenzy. Fortunately, most of the new<br />
buildings are less than three stories high and<br />
are white-washed to blend in with the historical<br />
buildings. Much of the old city has retained its<br />
old-world charm.<br />
Life in Muscat is dominated by its old corniche<br />
seafront in the Mutrah area, fringed by 18th<br />
century buildings and the imposing 17th century<br />
Mutrah fort. The harbour is usually awash<br />
with locals selling the fresh catch of the day,<br />
with a variety of fi sh and other exotic creatures<br />
from the sea.<br />
The city boasts several imposing mosques, of<br />
which the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is the<br />
largest and most prominent. Muscat also offers<br />
several museums, beautifully restored houses,<br />
an opera house, the Al Alam Sultan’s Palace,<br />
parliament buildings, fortresses, and the bustling<br />
Mutrah souq which is said to be one of the<br />
oldest marketplaces in the Arab world.<br />
Engulfed in the mixed smells of frankincense,<br />
perfume oils, fresh jasmine, and spices, you<br />
can shop for Omani gold and silverware, embroidered<br />
bright coloured cloth, pots, paintings,<br />
hookah pipes, framed khanjars (daggers),<br />
leatherwork, incense, and so on.<br />
Photo Essay • Oman | 99
Muscat Mosque<br />
100 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Oman - Arabian Peninsula<br />
Grand Mosque<br />
Qaboos bin Said al Said, the current Sultan<br />
of Oman, ordered the Grand Mosque<br />
in 1992. Construction started in <strong>Dec</strong>ember<br />
1994 and took six years and seven months to<br />
complete.<br />
Constructed from 300,000 tons of Indian sandstone,<br />
the main prayer hall has a central dome<br />
rising to a height of 50 metres (160 ft) above<br />
the square 74.4 by 74.4 metre (244 by 244 ft)<br />
carpeted fl oor.<br />
This hall can hold over 6,500 worshippers<br />
while the adjacent women’s prayer hall can<br />
hold 750, and the outer marble-paved area an<br />
additional 8,000 people.<br />
The mosque has four fl anking minarets each<br />
measuring a whopping 45.5 metres (149 ft)<br />
high. Truly an architectural masterpiece.<br />
While the main structure is impressive, the<br />
interior design is record-breaking.<br />
The chandelier above the main prayer hall is<br />
14 metres (46 ft) tall, eight metres wide (26 ft),<br />
weighs 8.5 tons, includes 600,000 pieces of<br />
crystal trimmed with gold, uses 1,122 halogen<br />
bulbs, and even has a small staircase inside<br />
for workers to perform maintenance. The carpet<br />
below this massive chandelier was woven<br />
in Iran and contains a whopping 1.7 billion<br />
knots, weighs 21 tons, and took four years to<br />
weave. At the time the carpet was laid, it was<br />
the world’s largest single-piece carpet.<br />
It dropped to the second spot in 2007 when<br />
a larger carpet was laid in the Sheikh Zayed<br />
Mosque in Abu Dhabi, UAE.<br />
Photo Essay • Oman | 101
The Sultan Qaboos Mosque (Grand Mosque).<br />
102 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Photo Essay • Oman | 103
Oman - Arabian Peninsula<br />
Nizwa<br />
Located 140 kilometres (87 mi) southwest<br />
of Muscat is one of the oldest oasis towns<br />
in Oman, surrounded by expansive palm<br />
groves.<br />
Nizwa, with its authentic souq, was once a<br />
major centre of trade in the Arabian Peninsula<br />
and over the centuries also played a prominent<br />
role in Oman’s religion, education, and art.<br />
Surrounded by a verdant spread of date<br />
palms, much of the old part of Nizwa was built<br />
with clay bricks and mud. Best known for its<br />
now heavily renovated fort that was built in<br />
1668 AD, it is a reminder of the town’s signifi -<br />
cance throughout its turbulent history.<br />
The large Nizwa souq remains quite authentic<br />
and is famous for its variety of local handicrafts<br />
and agricultural products.<br />
At this bustling market, you can fi nd everything<br />
from freshly slaughtered meat and fi sh,<br />
local fruits and vegetables, gold, silverware<br />
and copperware, and a mind-boggling array<br />
of spices. It is best to get lost in the souq and<br />
just enjoy the adventure.<br />
104 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Nizwa Fort<br />
Photo Essay • Oman | 105
106 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Photo Essay • Oman | 107
Article<br />
Colombia<br />
Cabo San Juan de Guia Beach<br />
Cabo San Juan beach is an undeveloped tropical paradise<br />
in Parque Tayrona located along the Caribbean coast.<br />
Set up your hammock between two trees and enjoy a night<br />
in paradise!<br />
108 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Colombia<br />
Caribbean Coastal Adventures<br />
The Colombian north coast along the Caribbean Sea is packed with adventure, still devoid of mass<br />
tourism. Float in a bubbling mud volcano, and swim in pristine waters at palm-fringed beaches.<br />
For many years, Colombia has not been<br />
a country high on the list of most<br />
travellers and holidaymakers. However,<br />
times have changed and the country is now open<br />
to tourism!<br />
Since 1964, a guerilla movement known as<br />
The Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, or<br />
Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia<br />
(FARC), has been involved in an armed conflict<br />
against the government. FARC wreaked havoc<br />
in many parts of Columbia, and while foreigners<br />
were not particularly targeted and it has been possible<br />
to travel there, many areas were off-limits.<br />
In June 2016 FARC signed a ceasefire accord<br />
with the Colombian Government, later rejected in<br />
a national referendum.<br />
After a revised peace<br />
treaty was approved by<br />
the Colombian Congress,<br />
FARC ceased<br />
fighting in June 2017<br />
giving new hope to the tourism industry. Unfortunately,<br />
in August <strong>2019</strong> a small faction of FARC<br />
leaders returned to armed activity resulting in<br />
offensive strikes by the government, killing some<br />
FARC members. Nobody knows what the future<br />
holds and whether the country is heading back to<br />
its days of turmoil. Only time will tell.<br />
After many years of guerilla fighting, Colombia<br />
appears to be safer now. A destination<br />
for intrepid travellers ready to be explored.<br />
Over the last few years, adventure seekers<br />
have flocked to Colombia before it becomes<br />
another hotspot where mass tourism will destroy<br />
the charm. Most travellers who visited Colombia<br />
safely returned home and have good things to say<br />
about it.<br />
Colombia is known for islands such as San<br />
Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina near<br />
Nicaragua, home to some exquisite beaches.<br />
Colombia also offers the fascinating Amazonian<br />
rain forests, Andean mountains, vast plains of the<br />
Orinoquia region along the Orinoco river, and<br />
the tropical coasts along the Caribbean Sea and<br />
Pacific Ocean.<br />
If you are an avid bird watcher, you will be in<br />
bird-heaven. With 1870 recorded<br />
species, Colombia<br />
has the most bird species<br />
of any country on earth.<br />
The second and third spots<br />
are held by Peru and Brazil<br />
with 1,817 and 1,767 species respectively. Colombia<br />
is home to almost one-fifth of all bird species on<br />
earth, though about 160 of its species are at risk of<br />
imminent extinction. You may have to compete<br />
with the birds to enjoy the wide variety of tropical<br />
fruits such as gorgeous guavas, delicious dragon<br />
fruit, zingy zapotes, and luscious lulos.<br />
While some areas of Columbia are still<br />
deemed off-limits except for “all but essential<br />
travel”, much of it is safe, despite the usual street<br />
crime.<br />
If you prefer city life, Colombia has it. Bogota<br />
is booming with funky restaurants, boutique hotels<br />
and craft breweries, and since street art was decriminalised<br />
in 2011, Bogota’s flyovers, office towers<br />
Article • Colombia | 109
Colombia - Caribbean Coastal Adventures<br />
Immediately outside the old city at a<br />
strategic location on the Hill of San Lázaro<br />
is Castillo San Felipe de Barajas built by<br />
the Spanish during the early 16th cenand<br />
municipal walls have become canvases<br />
for some of the world’s most prolific graffiti<br />
artists. Other interesting cities to visit<br />
include Medellin, Cali, and Cartagena.<br />
We start our adventure in the northeastern<br />
town of Cartagena, one of the most<br />
exquisite colonial cities in Latin America.<br />
From here we visit a few idyllic islands before<br />
heading northeast along the Caribbean<br />
Coast to take a gooey bath in an active<br />
mud volcano. After a thorough wash in a<br />
lagoon, we continue further northeast to<br />
Taganga Beach. We end up our Colombia<br />
travels in the unspoiled beaches of Parque<br />
Nacional Natural Tayrona where we sleep<br />
in a hammock between two palm trees.<br />
Iglesia de San Pedro Claver.<br />
CARTAGENA<br />
Culture-rich Cartagena is known for its<br />
well preserved colonial architechture.<br />
Located along the Caribbean<br />
Sea in the far northwest of the<br />
country, the colonial walled city<br />
of Cartagena de Indias was built on gold<br />
and slavery and is affectionately known as<br />
“Cartagena, the jewel in Colombia’s crown”.<br />
Cartagena is a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site with a history that dates back<br />
to 4,000 BC. In its more recent history,<br />
Spanish colonists founded the city in the<br />
16th century and named it after Cartagena<br />
in Spain. The city became a centre for<br />
Spanish royalty and wealthy viceroys, but<br />
endured frequent attacks from invaders.<br />
As protection, high walls were built so the<br />
fortressed city now offers some interesting<br />
examples of military strategy and well<br />
preserved colonial architecture. Cartagena<br />
is also much associated with pirates of the<br />
Caribbean Sea.<br />
The main city gate, and original entrance<br />
to the fortified historical centre is<br />
via the beautiful Puerta del Reloj (Clock<br />
Gate) leading into the vibrant Plaza de los<br />
Coches (Square of the Carriages).<br />
In the colourful old city are several<br />
markets, squares, cathedrals, castillo<br />
(fortresses) and an increasing number of<br />
touristy bars, cafes, boutique hotels and<br />
guesthouses.<br />
Have a drink in one of the many plazas<br />
while watching the horse carts with tourists<br />
clattering through the streets. Evenings<br />
are often filled with flash mobs dancing in<br />
the colourful plazas. You will instinctively<br />
start to sway to the rhythm of the traditional<br />
musical dances of the cumbia, porro<br />
and vallenato.<br />
The Caribbean port city of<br />
Cartagena has long been<br />
referred to as “the jewel in<br />
Colombia’s crown”.<br />
The figurative painter and sculptor<br />
from Medellin, Fernando Botero, is<br />
famed for his satirical works which feature<br />
oversized subjects in an exaggerated form.<br />
Don’t miss his bronze woman sculpture,<br />
“La Gordita,” who reclines happily in the<br />
Plaza Santo Domingo in front of Church of<br />
Santa Domingo.<br />
White Beach near Cartagena.<br />
110 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
tury. The best view of Cartagena can be<br />
seen from the Convent of La Candelaria,<br />
located on top of the La Popa hill which is<br />
a short distance east of the old city.<br />
Tired of strolling through the old city<br />
and hiking the hills? Then head over to the<br />
Bocagrande beaches area, a narrow strip of<br />
land with many hotels, shops, restaurants,<br />
nightclubs and art galleries.<br />
Take a day-trip to nearby Playa Blanca<br />
and Islas del Rosario for incredibly beautiful<br />
beaches, islands, birds and marine life.<br />
The Rosario Islands also offer excellent<br />
diving where divers can admire colourful<br />
coral gardens, bountiful marine life, and<br />
perhaps a sunken pirate ship.<br />
While in Cartagena, take a flight to the<br />
Colombian island of San Andrés which lies<br />
closer to the east coast of Nicaragua than<br />
to the north coast of Colombia. While San<br />
Andrés has some exquisite beaches, the<br />
prize goes to nearby Providencia island<br />
that has over the years retained much of its<br />
traditional laid-back charm.<br />
Flights from San Andrés to Providencia<br />
are via a small 10-seater plane. Alternatively,<br />
take the catamaran ferry which makes<br />
the 90 kilometre (56 mi) sea voyage a few<br />
times a week.<br />
Cartagena is a one hour and twentyminute<br />
flight north of Bogota. A bus ride<br />
to cover the 1,060 kilometres will take<br />
about 17 hours and is not recommended<br />
due to the potential risk of kidnappers<br />
targeting long haul buses.<br />
Dance performance in Plaza Bolivar, Cartagena.<br />
Colonial buildings of Cartagena.<br />
Colonial buildings of Cartagena.<br />
Article • Colombia |111
Colombia - Caribbean Coastal Adventures<br />
EL TOTUMO MUD VOLCANO<br />
Soak in the soft bubbling mud volcano<br />
while getting an uninvited $1 massage.<br />
About 63 kilometres (39 mi)<br />
northeast of Cartagena, along<br />
the Caribbean Coast, is one of<br />
the most bizarre attractions of Colombia,<br />
and a rite of passage if you visit Cartagena.<br />
El Totumo is the country’s smallest volcano,<br />
although it does not spew hot lava or blow<br />
smoke. It is an active but peaceful little volcano<br />
with a 15 metre (49 foot) mound filled<br />
in the core with lukewarm softly bubbling<br />
mud. Superfine brown silky mud.<br />
According to local folklore, Totumo<br />
used to spew fire, lava, and ashes, but it<br />
was turned into mud by a local priest who<br />
believed it was the work of the devil, and<br />
endeavoured to banish him by sprinkling<br />
holy water into the volcano.<br />
Pay a small fee to the local collector<br />
and climb up the rudimentary ladder to<br />
the top of the mount. While the mud levels<br />
slightly rise and fall over time, it seems that<br />
these days its level is more often low than<br />
high. Several local entrepreneurs at the<br />
bottom of the volcano sell bottles of the<br />
volcano’s mud to visiting tourists, which<br />
may explain where all the mud is disappearing.<br />
If you are very lucky, you may<br />
find the mud near the top of the mount<br />
with some spilling over the rim, though<br />
most likely you will have to climb several<br />
feet down a rickety old wooden ladder that<br />
gets extremely slippery to reach the muddy<br />
surface. As you look down onto the giggling<br />
people drifting on the mud, you may<br />
get a vision of catfish flopping around in a<br />
muddy watering hole!<br />
The mud reputedly has healing and<br />
therapeutic properties so for many years<br />
it has been a popular health-bath for the<br />
locals. While few tourists report rejuvenated<br />
skin after immersing in the mud, the<br />
bizarre experience of floating weightlessly<br />
112 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
on silky luke-warm mud makes the trip<br />
worthwhile.<br />
The entrepreneurial local men have<br />
realised that tourists are happy to pay a<br />
dollar or two for a mud-rub as they lie<br />
drifting on the mud. They generally won’t<br />
ask permission to render their services, so<br />
just take it as it comes and let them mudrub<br />
you. Make sure not to let your face get<br />
all muddy as you’ll be sorry if the mud gets<br />
into your eyes.<br />
Once you have become a mud-monster,<br />
you may leave the pit and pay the lady<br />
down below the mount. It is recommended<br />
that you let the mud dry before washing.<br />
At this time, don’t be surprised if busloads<br />
of Colombian tourists come around to take<br />
photos of the strange muddy foreigners,<br />
probably wondering how people can do<br />
this to themselves!<br />
“The local lady pulled off my<br />
swimsuit under the water and<br />
started to wash my crevices!"<br />
As you stand to dry, several people<br />
will have pointed you to the nearby lagoon<br />
where you will find a few local ladies wading<br />
in the water to wash the tourists. Now,<br />
this is another part of the bizarre experience.<br />
These ladies also won’t ask permission<br />
to wash, so just lay back and let her do<br />
her job. She most likely will be digging her<br />
fingers in your ears and nose to clear out<br />
the mud.<br />
Some ladies will even remove your<br />
swimwear to rinse out the mud, scrub your<br />
crevices, and put back your swimwear. She<br />
is used to doing this so just go with the<br />
flow. Once she is convinced that you are<br />
clean, slip her a few coins in the hand.<br />
As you sit in the minivan with your<br />
clean mud buddies, you certainly will get<br />
the sulphuric smell of mud. Don’t despair.<br />
Just believe that the healing and therapeutic<br />
powers of the mud are hard at work<br />
rejuvenating your skin.<br />
Article • Colombia |113
Colombia - Caribbean Coastal Adventures<br />
Taganga fishing village and beach.<br />
Taganga fishing village and beach.<br />
Fishing boats at Taganga village.<br />
Playa Grande near Taganga fishing village.<br />
114 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
TAGANGA AND OTHER BEACHES<br />
Located close to the port city of Santa<br />
Marta, Taganga is sun, sea, and surf.<br />
Continue for 67 kilometres (42<br />
mi) northwest along the Caribbean<br />
Coast to the city of Barranquilla.<br />
While it is an interesting place to<br />
linger for a few days, you want to be here<br />
during the annual festival. The Barranquilla<br />
Carnival is one of the biggest of its kind,<br />
giving the likes of Rio a run for its money.<br />
Taking place in the middle of summer,<br />
the sultry carnival is a big drawcard for<br />
tourists who enjoy the streets filled with<br />
parades and parties.<br />
From Barranquilla take coastal Route<br />
90, built on a sandy artificial spit, to cross<br />
the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta marsh<br />
to the historic town of Ciénaga. <strong>Dec</strong>lared<br />
a National Cultural Heritage Site in 1996,<br />
you can bathe in Ciénaga’s hot springs<br />
and participate in a festival honouring the<br />
caimán, a small crocodile. The historical<br />
old centre of town is worth a visit, as well<br />
as the nearby stilt villages.<br />
From Ciénaga it is a 33 kilometre (20<br />
mi) drive north along the coast to the town<br />
of Santa Marta, a prime tourist destination<br />
in the Caribbean coastal region. Santa<br />
Marta was the first Spanish settlement in<br />
Colombia and is now one of the oldest permanent<br />
settlements in the Americas. Not<br />
surprisingly, it offers great colonial architecture,<br />
a whitewashed cathedral, pleasant<br />
waterfront, beaches, public market, vibrant<br />
street food scene, and endless opportunities<br />
to explore nature.<br />
Our next destination along the Caribbean<br />
coast is the fishing village of Taganga,<br />
just five kilometres (three miles) further up<br />
along the coast from Santa Marta. Taganga<br />
is a place where beautiful lush green covered<br />
mountains meet a horseshoe-shaped bay.<br />
Truly a beautiful location, which looks<br />
even more beautiful once you hike the<br />
nearby hills overlooking the sea.<br />
While Taganga was a rustic fishing<br />
village for many years, nowadays it has<br />
become a haven for backpackers, party<br />
animals, and scuba divers. Here you will<br />
find no shortage of dive shops, seafood<br />
restaurants, hostels, and places for beer<br />
parties. While the beach used to be popular<br />
for swimming, it is no longer as clean as<br />
it used to be. Take a hike into the hills for<br />
stunning views over the ocean and the village,<br />
and go swim at nearby Playa Grande<br />
to the north of the village. Another lovely<br />
beach is Playa Bonito Gordo in nearby<br />
Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona which is<br />
best reached by boat from Taganga beach<br />
or by walking from Bahía Concha inside<br />
the park.<br />
Note that Taganga has a reputation for<br />
street crime, so be careful, especially at<br />
night.<br />
South of Taganga is La Cuidad Perdida,<br />
also known as “Teyuna” and “Buritaca”, an<br />
archaeological site in the Sierra Nevada<br />
mountain range. This “lost city” is believed<br />
to have been founded at the start of the<br />
ninth century, which makes it about 750<br />
years older than Machu Picchu in Peru.<br />
On the way to Ciudad Perdida, stop at<br />
Minca to the southeast of Taganga. Minca<br />
is a beautiful tiny town located in the hills<br />
and jungle and has become a popular spot<br />
among travellers due to its remote location,<br />
coffee farms, waterfalls, and excellent<br />
hiking trails.<br />
Playa Grande Beach.<br />
Tiny restaurant at Taganga.<br />
Article • Colombia | 115
Colombia - Caribbean Coastal Adventures<br />
PARQUE NACIONAL TAYRONA<br />
A nature sanctuary along the Caribbean<br />
Sea, rich in fauna and flora.<br />
Just a few kilometres to the<br />
northeast from Taganga lies the<br />
western edge of Parque Nacional<br />
Natural Tayrona which stretches for about<br />
30 kilometres (19 mi) along the Caribbean<br />
Coast. The park boasts in excess of 60<br />
mammal species as well as over 400 species<br />
of birds, in addition to countless reptiles<br />
and amphibians. This is the main reason<br />
why we came to northern Colombia and<br />
this is why we would not want to leave this<br />
incredible country.<br />
As a protected area in Colombia’s<br />
northern wilderness, Tayrona National<br />
Park has all the elements you want from an<br />
idyllic location along the Caribbean Sea.<br />
Come here if you like swaying palms trees,<br />
beautiful sandy beaches, lagoons, ancient<br />
ruins, and most of all, peace and quiet. Still<br />
free of major developments, the park has<br />
a lot of rugged beauty to offer those who<br />
made the effort to reach this part of the<br />
South American continent.<br />
From Santa Marta, hop on a bus or taxi<br />
to the most eastern part of the park. From<br />
the drop-off point at the park entrance, it<br />
is a few kilometres walk to the beaches.<br />
Among the best beaches along this part<br />
of the park are Arrecifes, the nearest beach<br />
to the park’s main entrance, Cabo San Juan<br />
de Guia, Cañaveral, and La Piscinita. Most<br />
of these beaches offer tents and hammocks<br />
for rent, and some basic restaurants. The<br />
best option is the hammock! While the<br />
open-air hostels have several hammocks<br />
lined up in a row under a canopy, the more<br />
adventurous way to sleep is to find two<br />
palm trees along the beach and spend the<br />
night swinging in the breeze.<br />
Need a break from the beautiful sandy<br />
beaches? Take an invigorating hike into<br />
the jungle to ancient ruins where you will<br />
pass through several streams and giant<br />
boulders. Keep your eyes peeled for the<br />
multi-coloured land crabs, leaf cutter ants,<br />
bright blue and green reptiles, countless<br />
butterflies, and if you are lucky you may<br />
see the endangered cotton-top tamarin<br />
monkey with its fluffy white mane.<br />
A mere two-hour hike from the Cabo<br />
San Juan de Guia beach up in the hill lies<br />
the pre-Hispanic ruins of Pueblito. Few<br />
people attempt the rather challenging<br />
path through the jungle, so if you succeed,<br />
you most likely will have the ruins all to<br />
yourself. While most of the ruins have<br />
been devoured by the jungle, there is more<br />
than enough visible for you to imagine<br />
what life must have been like here over 500<br />
years ago.<br />
While the area is deemed safe, it’s best<br />
to always hike in a small group. Make sure<br />
to bring along sunscreen, insect repellent,<br />
and plenty of water.<br />
When done with the ruins and the<br />
jungle hike, return to the beaches and just<br />
relax. Colombia’s Caribbean Coast has<br />
been very good to you! GR<br />
Cabo San Juan de Guia Beach.<br />
116 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Hammock Hotel at Cabo San Juan de Guia Beach.<br />
Cabo San Juan de Guia Beach.<br />
Hammock Hotel.<br />
Arrecifes Beach.<br />
Article • Colombia | 117
Taganga fishing village.<br />
Intrepid traveller mingling with the locals.<br />
118 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Colombia - Caribbean Coastal Adventures<br />
Stay safe while travelling in Colombia<br />
Safety precautions in Colombia<br />
are much like anywhere else.<br />
Use common sense, be streetwise,<br />
and stay away from known<br />
danger zones such as the border<br />
area with Ecuador and Venezuela<br />
due to the risk of kidnapping or<br />
being caught in the crossfire of the<br />
drug war.<br />
Going off the beaten path might<br />
not be the best idea in Colombia,<br />
though if this is what makes you<br />
tick, first check the safety situation<br />
with locals and take along a local<br />
guide.<br />
Adding to the uncertainty of the<br />
internecine confl ict between<br />
the government and the guerrilla<br />
groups, the wars continue<br />
between the police and the drug<br />
cartels in places such as Medellin<br />
and Cali.<br />
The bright side is that these towns<br />
are nowadays safer than they<br />
were during the eighties and nineties.<br />
Long-distance travel is best done<br />
by plane. Avoid long bus rides, especially<br />
overnight trips. If travelling<br />
by private car and driver, always<br />
keep a low profi le.<br />
Enjoy Colombia before it becomes<br />
another victim of mass tourism.<br />
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION<br />
Getting There<br />
Fly into the Colombian capital, Bogota,<br />
and from here it is best to fl y Viva Air or<br />
Avianca Air to Cartagena. The fl ight takes<br />
just 90 minutes and lands at Cartagena’s<br />
Rafael Núñez International Airport located<br />
6 minutes drive to the northeast of the<br />
old city. Alternatively, take a direct bus<br />
(Berlinas del Fonce, Copetran or Expreso<br />
Brasilia). It is a 20 to 23-hour journey.<br />
When to Go<br />
The weather is good all-year-round,<br />
but avoid the peak visitor season from<br />
mid-<strong>Dec</strong>ember to the end of January and<br />
again from mid-June to mid-July when locals<br />
flock to the park and beaches. Avoid<br />
local holidays such as Easter. Tayrona<br />
Park closes for a month around February.<br />
Getting Around<br />
Along the Caribbean coast are several<br />
routes by bus and minibus. To reach El<br />
Totumo Mud Volcano, take a day trip by<br />
minibus from Cartagena. The bus ride to<br />
Santa Marta (for Taganga fi shing village<br />
and nearby beaches) from Cartagena,<br />
takes about four hours - a distance of 230<br />
km (143 mi). From Santa Marta to Tayrona<br />
National Park, take a minibus to El Zaino.<br />
Where to Stay<br />
Cartagena has accommodation for all<br />
budgets. Along the coast are many guest<br />
houses that cater mostly to the local<br />
crowd. During the off season it is easy<br />
to find accommodation. At Tayrona Park,<br />
try to set up your hammock between two<br />
palm trees or stay at the hammock hotel.<br />
Photography<br />
Colombia is generally a feast for the eyes,<br />
and the north coast is nothing short of<br />
beautiful scenery and memorable experiences.<br />
The locals are mostly accustomed<br />
to tourists taking photos of them, but as<br />
always it is best to fi rst ask permission.<br />
Don’t forget to bring your camera to the<br />
mud volcano, but place it in a thin plastic<br />
bag to protect it from the mud.<br />
Safety<br />
Colombia is safer than it used to be, but it<br />
remains a risky destination. However, many<br />
travellers to Colombia return safely home<br />
without any mishaps. Be extra streetwise<br />
everywhere, in particular in Bogota and<br />
other big cities. Even Taganga village has<br />
reports of street hooligans, so walk cat-foot.<br />
Dining Out<br />
Colombia has delicious traditional foods so<br />
try as many of the local dishes as possible.<br />
The country is multi-ethnic and food<br />
tend to be regionalised. Along the Caribbean<br />
coast, seafood is obviously popular,<br />
including lobster. Coconut rice is a common<br />
dish as are fried plantain patties.<br />
Packing<br />
The weather along the Caribbean coast is<br />
good all-year-round. It’s hot and tropical<br />
with a rainy season between May and<br />
November. The best time is from <strong>Dec</strong>ember<br />
to March, since it is the driest, or at<br />
least less rainy. Pack a light sweater for<br />
cool evenings or when on a boat.<br />
Cost of Travel<br />
Colombia is not dirt-cheap, but also not<br />
expensive, depending on how much you<br />
want to spend. If on a tight budget, you can<br />
get by on $30 to $70 (USD) a day, including<br />
everything except airline tickets and longdistance<br />
buses. One way flights to Cartagena<br />
cost about $120. The bus is $50.<br />
Article • Colombia | 119
Dust, Drought and Distance<br />
Travelling the South Australian Outback<br />
South Australia isn’t called the<br />
driest state of the driest continent<br />
on earth for nothing. But<br />
just because a lot of South Australia’s<br />
983,482 square kilometres (379,725<br />
miles²) is outback and desert country doesn’t<br />
mean there’s nothing to see and do there.<br />
South Australia is so large that only 30<br />
countries on earth are larger. So of course the<br />
landscape is wide, open and empty. The sky’s<br />
so big and blue by day and ablaze with colour<br />
Marion Halliday is Red Nomad OZ,<br />
author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves<br />
discovering nature based attractions and activities<br />
– and scenic loos – all over Australia.<br />
Her Aussie travel expertise, photography<br />
and the storytelling skills she developed in<br />
corporate life come together in her Aussie<br />
travel blog where the highlights (and lowlights)<br />
of her many years of downunder travel provide<br />
inspiration for other Aussie explorers.<br />
Words & Photos by Marion Halliday<br />
as the sun sinks below the horizon’s flat line<br />
that it’ll dominate your photos without even<br />
trying. It’s a country of vast plains crisscrossed<br />
by (mostly) dry river beds, bisected<br />
by a maze of dusty tracks and scattered with<br />
unexpected rock formations and sand dunes<br />
in impossible colours and shapes.<br />
When you look beyond the dust, drought<br />
and the endless distances, the scenery is<br />
stunning, in a remote Aussie Outback kind<br />
of way.<br />
Venture a few hours north of the more<br />
popular (and green!) coastal fringe and it<br />
will feel like a different universe. Or at the<br />
very least, like landing on the moon. Add<br />
in a diverse and unexpected collection of<br />
state, national and world record holding<br />
attractions and this remote part of Australia<br />
becomes not just memorable, but magic.<br />
Base yourself right in the middle of<br />
all this wide open space where you’ll find<br />
Coober Pedy, also known as Opal Capital of<br />
the World. About 850 km (530 miles) and a<br />
nine hour drive up the Stuart Highway north<br />
of state capital Adelaide, it’s surrounded by<br />
countless multicoloured ‘mullock’ heaps,<br />
rock discarded from the diggings in the<br />
never-ending quest for Australia’s national<br />
gemstone. Visit the site where teenager Willie<br />
Hutchison first discovered opal in 1815<br />
while searching for water, and you’ll wonder<br />
how anything could be found in this barren<br />
moonscape!<br />
Try your luck “noodling” for a piece of<br />
opal in the public fossicking area’s giant<br />
mullock heap and you’ll wonder even more.<br />
But don’t despair if you don’t get lucky there<br />
– finding an opal souvenir in one of the<br />
town’s many outlets is a sure thing!<br />
Flight over Anna Creek Painted Hills<br />
120 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
AUSTRALIA SPECIAL REPORT<br />
It’s estimated that over 70% of the world’s<br />
opal has been extracted from Coober Pedy’s<br />
70 opal fields and countless underground<br />
mines, attracting miners and fortune hunters<br />
from all around the world. At last count, 45<br />
nationalities were represented in the town’s<br />
population of around 2500.<br />
Mining opal doesn’t come easily in this<br />
harsh and unforgiving climate where rainfall<br />
has been well under the annual average of<br />
138 mm (5.5 inches) for two years in a row,<br />
and temperatures regularly top 40° C (104°<br />
F) in summer. That’s why you’ll find dwellings<br />
(called “dugouts”), churches, accommodation,<br />
opal outlets, shops and the world’s<br />
only underground campground hacked<br />
out of the rock below the surface where the<br />
temperature’s a pleasant 24°C (75ºF) all year<br />
round.<br />
Living<br />
underground<br />
is bizarre. For<br />
starters, there<br />
aren’t any windows<br />
so when<br />
the lights are<br />
off it’s dark. Totally dark. And silent. If you’ve<br />
got an overactive imagination, having several<br />
tonnes of rock above your head can be unnerving.<br />
The pyramid-shaped metal caps<br />
atop pipes sticking out of the ground are air<br />
vents channelling fresh air into the buildings<br />
underground, and stopping rain from dripping<br />
underground through the vent.<br />
The chances of rain in Coober Pedy on<br />
our June <strong>2019</strong> visit were low, with the total<br />
year-to-date rainfall only 19.8 mm (0.78<br />
inches), way below average.<br />
Flying over Lake Eyre<br />
Coober Pedy Kanku-Breakaways<br />
Luckily, the desert scenery doesn’t rely on<br />
rain to look magnificent, especially 25 km<br />
(15.5 miles) north of town at the Kanku-<br />
Breakaways Conservation Park, with fantastic<br />
rock formations rising out of what was once<br />
an ancient sea bed. Drive out there at sunset<br />
for amazing light and colours, or take a day<br />
trip and drive the 70 km (43.5 mile) loop<br />
trail down onto the old sea bed and past the<br />
Dog Fence. Built in the 1880’s to keep dingos<br />
(Australian wild dogs) from the south-east<br />
pastoral area, the fence looks just like any<br />
other farm fence-line, but at 5,614 km (1,488<br />
mile) in length, it’s the longest continuous<br />
man-made structure in the world.<br />
If you think the Breakaways scenery<br />
looks familiar, it’s possible you’ve seen it<br />
before. That’s if you’ve watched movies like<br />
Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Pitch<br />
Black, Red Planet, Stark or Ground Zero, all<br />
of which were shot around here in a landscape<br />
that needs no enhancement to look<br />
post-apocalyptic!<br />
Back in Coober Pedy, the Opal Fields<br />
golf club, studded with rocks and its ‘greens’<br />
black with machine oil, looks even more<br />
post-apocalyptic. But it’s the only club in the<br />
world with reciprocal playing rights at the<br />
home of golf in Scotland, the 600-year-old St<br />
Andrews Golf Club. Too hot to play during<br />
the day? No problem! Just tee up with glowing<br />
balls when it’s cooler at night – and keep<br />
any opal you find!<br />
Painted Desert<br />
Coober Pedy’s most impressive natural<br />
Contribution • Australia | 121
attraction is just a short distance away (by<br />
outback standards), but a very long drive.<br />
Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre’s whopping 9,500<br />
square km (3,668 miles²) surface area makes<br />
it Australia’s largest lake, and 13th largest<br />
in the world. But it doesn’t have water in it<br />
every year despite a huge catchment area of<br />
1,140,000 square km – around 15% of Australia’s<br />
land mass, and the size of Colombia.<br />
On average, the lake has some water in it<br />
every three years, a partial fill every 10 years,<br />
and a complete fill every 25 years, although<br />
the most recent was in 1974-76. It’s also the<br />
site of Australia’s lowest natural point – 15.2<br />
metres (49 ft) below sea level.<br />
Whether or not I can claim to have<br />
been to Lake Eyre just by flying over it, it’s<br />
a bucket-list experience as arid mountain<br />
ranges, river beds, lonely roads, dams and<br />
sand dunes pass underneath in a magic<br />
carpet of earthy colour offset by the waters<br />
of this vast inland sea. And if I don’t hold the<br />
record for most photos taken on a Lake Eyre<br />
scenic flight, I gave it a red hot go!<br />
The tiny, remote town of William Creek<br />
(6 residents – and a dog!) is the closest point<br />
of civilisation to Anna Creek Station, largest<br />
working cattle station in the world at over<br />
23,677 square km (9,142 miles²) and bigger<br />
than El Salvador. After morning tea in William<br />
Creek, we flew back to Coober Pedy<br />
from Lake Eyre over the Anna Creek Painted<br />
Hills, a panorama streaked with colours<br />
We were in luck on this visit – waters<br />
from heavy flooding in northern Queensland<br />
earlier in the year are flowing into Lake Eyre<br />
North in one of the best events in recent<br />
years – it’s not a total fill, but it’ll do! By road,<br />
it’s 230 km (143 miles) to the lake’s nearest<br />
public access point – and it’s likely to take<br />
around 4.5 hours, depending on track conditions.<br />
So if you and your rig aren’t up for a<br />
rocky, dusty, tyre-shredding drive over rugged<br />
roads to see the lake, see it from the air<br />
instead on a scenic flight that takes in a lot of<br />
the surrounding countryside as well.<br />
Riverbed near Lake Eyre<br />
Coober Pedy Mullock Heaps<br />
122 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
direct from the outback palette. Far below,<br />
a small plane on the edge of the Hills had<br />
just disgorged a group of people for a guided<br />
tour, the only way to explore this inaccessible<br />
spot from the ground. Next time!<br />
The Painted Desert, third, and arguably<br />
most spectacular of the trifecta of exotic<br />
rocks in the region, is about 153 km (95<br />
miles) and a 4.5 hour drive north of Coober<br />
Pedy. We took the alternative route north<br />
for about 150 km (93 miles) up the Stuart<br />
Highway to stay at Cadney Park roadhouse<br />
and drive the 93 km (58 miles) east to the<br />
Painted Desert on a road so rough we took<br />
nearly three hours to get there.<br />
Leave enough time to explore the Painted<br />
Desert – vantage points overlook the impressive<br />
panorama of eroded rock formations,<br />
sweeping plains and roads heading east to<br />
Oodnadatta and west to Cadney Homestead.<br />
It’s a wild, remote landscape showcasing<br />
the Outback’s vast distances and hidden<br />
surprises – and also the courage and tenacity<br />
it takes to run a station out here. Camp at<br />
the Arckaringa Homestead, a few kilometres<br />
from the easternmost lookout in the Painted<br />
Desert, and return for some stunning sunset<br />
shots. It’s a long way to anywhere from here,<br />
so check with the locals for the optimum<br />
tyre pressure to avoid punctures - it’ll be a lot<br />
lower then you think!<br />
Travel during the Australian late winter<br />
and early spring (June-September) to avoid<br />
the heat – and possibly see the stunning<br />
Sturts Desert Pea, South Australia’s state<br />
floral emblem.<br />
The South Australian outback is full of<br />
rewards for intrepid travellers who make the<br />
effort to journey deep into its arid lands and<br />
far beyond the tourist hot spots.<br />
After experiencing its wide open spaces,<br />
quirky towns, outback sunsets, panoramic<br />
views and treasures of the earth, you just<br />
might find yourself planning your return!<br />
Marion Halliday blogs as<br />
“Australia by Red Nomad OZ” at<br />
www.redzaustralia.com.<br />
Follow Marion @rednomadoz on Twitter,<br />
Pinterest, Linked, and Flickr.<br />
Facebook: RedzAustralia.<br />
Buy her book: “Aussie Loos with Views!” at<br />
Amazon.com, eBay and at<br />
www.exploreaustralia.net.au<br />
William Creek Township Coober Pedy warning sign Coober Pedy Catacombs Church<br />
Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre<br />
Contribution • Australia | 123
9 Intrepid Places to Visit in 2020<br />
must-do<br />
Anytime is a good time to plan upcoming travels, though the most difficult question is always “where to travel”. Among the key drivers<br />
of such a decision are current exchange rates and speed of development and destruction. Mass tourism is rapidly expanding around<br />
the world, and so is global warming which is having a decimating effect on the glaciers and small island nations. It is a race against<br />
time to get to relatively untouched destinations before it is too late. Here are 9 highly recommended places to visit during the next year.<br />
1<br />
Svalbard Islands<br />
NORWAY<br />
You want to see Antarctica but it is way too expensive. You thought<br />
about the North Pole but that is just not doable with your stamina<br />
and budget. Consider the Svalbard Islands, the Norwegian archipelago<br />
that is just over 1,000 kilometres (621 mi) south of the North<br />
Pole. While you won’t see the penguins of Antarctica, you may see<br />
polar bears and other wildlife such as whales and seals.<br />
Unlike Antarctica, you can independently travel to Svalbard, book<br />
your own flights and accommodation and take day tours or even<br />
multi-day tours. You just can’t hike the hills by yourself as by law you<br />
must be with a licensed rifleman when outside of any settlement.<br />
2<br />
Goroka Sing-Sing Festival<br />
3<br />
PAPUA NEW GUINEA<br />
The Hermit Kingdom<br />
NORTH KOREA<br />
The annual Goroka Sing-Sing Festival, held during August and<br />
September in the Highlands of Papua New Guinea, is one of the<br />
most colourful festivals in the world. However, this is not a budgetfriendly<br />
destination. Flights to Papua New Guinea are expensive, as<br />
are domestic flights. Hotels in the capital, Port Moresby, are excessively<br />
expensive and low value for money. Port Moresby is also a<br />
dangerous city and travellers are highly recommended not to leave<br />
the hotel without a security guard. Walking around the city at night is<br />
highly risky and must be avoided.<br />
However, the Highlands are quite different. Festival participants are<br />
generally friendly towards the few international visitors and always<br />
ready to pose for cameras while wearing their colourful festival gear.<br />
It is also possible to take guided hiking trips and stay with the locals.<br />
Forget about being “politically correct” as this would mean there are<br />
many countries you would not visit. Be engaged and get a first-hand<br />
experience of life in strange places. Isn’t that what travel is all about?<br />
Visiting North Korea is an eye-opener. While you may not get the<br />
opportunity to meet with locals in the countryside, you will have<br />
ample freedom to talk with the locals on the streets, but only if you<br />
speak Korean. English is rare among the North Koreans although<br />
some in Pyongyang do speak a little You will quickly realise that<br />
the North Koreans are people just like all of us. The major difference<br />
is that they have been brainwashed by their government,<br />
which in itself is not so unique. The country has many interesting<br />
attractions, in particular the architecture. Museums and their exhibits<br />
are meticulously designed and displayed.<br />
124 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
4<br />
Albanian Riviera<br />
5<br />
ALBANIA<br />
Masuleh<br />
IRAN<br />
6<br />
Corcovado Jungle<br />
COSTA RICA<br />
Albania was closed-off to outsiders for a<br />
long time. Since it opened up during the<br />
early 1990s, many tourists overlooked<br />
Albania and chose to spend their holidays<br />
in nearby Greece, Montenegro and<br />
Croatia.<br />
Iran has an uncertain future and the<br />
sooner you visit this amazing country, the<br />
better. While Iran has so many places of<br />
great interest, and friendly people, one<br />
of the most photogenic locations is the<br />
mountain village of Masuleh.<br />
Along the southwest Pacifi c coast of<br />
Costa Rica, on the Osa Peninsula, lies<br />
one of the most remote national parks in<br />
the Americas. Corcovado National Park is<br />
hard to reach but once you arrive you will<br />
not want to leave.<br />
Times are changing fast and Albania’s<br />
share of the region’s tourist arrivals is<br />
steadily increasing. Tourism and development<br />
of the beautiful coastline of Albania<br />
will continue to grow, along with the negative<br />
impacts of mass tourism. Visit soon<br />
before the masses arrive!<br />
Located in the northwest of the country,<br />
Masuleh was founded in the 10th century<br />
AD and nowadays has a population of<br />
about 500 which declines in winter and<br />
increases dramatically in summer. Here<br />
the kids’ playgrounds are the roofs of the<br />
homes directly below theirs. Incredible!<br />
Here you will find pristine waters and jungles.<br />
Look out for ample wildlife including<br />
the endangered Baird’s tapir, the American<br />
crocodile and spectacled caiman, the<br />
jaguar, ocelot, jaguarundi, puma, two-toed<br />
and three-toed sloth, collared peccary,<br />
northern tamandua and the silky anteater.<br />
7<br />
Southern Islands<br />
8<br />
Maluti Mountains<br />
9<br />
CAMBODIA<br />
LESOTHO<br />
Qobustan Volcano<br />
AZERBAIJAN<br />
Southern Cambodia is blessed with<br />
turquoise coastal waters and beautiful<br />
beaches. However, as the Chinese<br />
resort and casino operators move in,<br />
they have destroyed much of the laidback<br />
atmosphere in the region’s largest<br />
town, Sihanoukville. Development of the<br />
tranquil islands is also a work in progress.<br />
Now is the time to visit this region before<br />
it changes beyond recognition.<br />
Choose between several islands, including<br />
Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem, Koh<br />
Ta Kiev, Koh Russei, and Koh Tonsay.<br />
The Kingdom of Lesotho is an enclaved<br />
country within the borders of South Africa<br />
with a population of around 2 million. The<br />
country is known for its natural beauty, in<br />
particular the Maluti (or Maloti) mountain<br />
range, part of the 1,000 km (600 mi) long<br />
Drakensberg system that stretches down<br />
the eastern part of South Africa in a northeastern<br />
direction.<br />
Snow falls in the mountains, and there’s a<br />
ski resort named Afriski. Almost all residents<br />
are of the Basotho tribe, living mostly<br />
in the highlands in their traditional huts.<br />
Azerbaijan is a fascinating country with a<br />
long rich history. However, the country is<br />
developing fast which means that many of<br />
its historic attractions are being demolished<br />
to make way for modern development.<br />
Along the Caspian Sea, 62 km (38 mi) to<br />
the south of the nation’s capital Baku, is<br />
one of the country’s most bizarre attractions.<br />
The Qobustan State Reserve offers<br />
prehistoric rock carvings, a natural musical<br />
stone, and is home to about 300 of the<br />
planet’s estimated 700 mud volcanoes.<br />
Some of these occasionally spew fl ames!<br />
125
Photo Essay<br />
Corcovado, Costa Rica<br />
Located on Costa Rica’s remote Osa Peninsula<br />
along the Pacific Ocean, Corcovado National<br />
Park was dubbed by National Geographic as<br />
“the most biologically intense place on Earth<br />
in terms of biodiversity.”<br />
At 424 square kilometres (164 square miles),<br />
Corcovado is the largest national park in Costa Rica and<br />
protects about a third of the Osa Peninsula. It is also the<br />
largest primary forest on the American Pacific coastline.<br />
Here you will find an impressively diverse array<br />
of 13 major ecosystems including lowland rain forest,<br />
highland cloud forest, jolillo forest (palm swamp),<br />
mangrove swamps, as well as coastal marine and<br />
beach habitats. The park is home to an impressive 500<br />
tree species, 400 species of birds (including 16 different<br />
hummingbirds and the largest number of scarlet<br />
macaws anywhere in Central America), more than<br />
100 species of butterflies, at least 10,000 species of<br />
other insects, 28 species of lizards, 40 species of frogs,<br />
many species of snakes, as well as mammals such as<br />
the Baird’s tapir, the rare harpy eagle, scarlet macaws,<br />
jaguar, puma, red-backed squirrel monkeys, sloths,<br />
white-lipped peccaries, and the list goes on and on.<br />
Come hike and camp here but be warned that the<br />
place can get wet, and is remote and very rugged. You<br />
will often have to walk waist-deep through rivers, but<br />
feel free to swim under the waterfalls surrounded by<br />
the verdure of the rainforest. Water from the falls is<br />
crystal clear, so feel free to drink.<br />
Corcovado has about 39 kilometres (23 mi) of deserted<br />
golden sand beaches lined with coconut palms.<br />
Here you will only be disturbed by the occasional colossal<br />
monitor lizard scavenging the beaches for morsels<br />
from the sea. While swimming in the sea, be on the<br />
126 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Corcovado<br />
Jungle Trekking<br />
Costa Rica<br />
Corcovado is one of the most remote national parks in the<br />
Americas and is home to pristine waters and a jungle<br />
TEEMING WITH EXOTIC WILDLIFE.<br />
lookout for hammerhead sharks, crocodiles, and bull<br />
sharks which are common in Corcovado Lagoon and the<br />
estuaries of the Ríos Claro and Sirena.<br />
Note that over the last few years, new regulations<br />
have come into action. Visitors are no longer allowed to<br />
explore the park without a guide. There are also strict<br />
regulations in place in terms of where to sleep and how<br />
to behave in the park.<br />
Entering the park from the south is best done by<br />
taking a boat from Golfito across the gulf to Puerto Jiménez.<br />
From here arrange the necessary permits at the<br />
Osa Conservation Area administrative headquarters.<br />
Permits in hand, get a ride on a four-wheel-drive<br />
or the back of a pickup truck to Carate on the Pacific<br />
Coast. From Carate you can walk on the beach and<br />
through the jungle to La Leona Ranger Station 2<br />
kilometres (1.2 mi), or to Sirena Ranger Station 15<br />
kilometres (9 mi) along Playa Madrigal beach. From<br />
Sirena Ranger Station it is possible to exit the park via<br />
San Pedrillo and Drake Bay to the north.<br />
Corcovado does not play games. If you want to visit<br />
planet earth’s “most biologically intense place”, be<br />
well prepared and be tough. There are many dangerous<br />
animals in this dense tropical jungle. Come out<br />
alive and it will be an experience you will never forget!<br />
Photo Essay • Costa Rica | 127
Corcovado, Costa Rica<br />
Coastline along the hike to Sirene Ranger Station.<br />
The road from Puerto Jiménez to Carate by the<br />
sea, where the long beach hike starts.<br />
Shopping along the beach hike.<br />
The Sirene Ranger Station where hikers can sleep in<br />
dormitories or camp in tents.<br />
Backpackers bonding at the<br />
Sirene Ranger Station.<br />
128 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
The only way to get to the ranger station (and hopefully find a<br />
bed), is to walk on the beach. Some do it donkey-style.<br />
Beach along the hike to Sirene Ranger Station.<br />
Photo Essay • Costa Rica | 129
Spectacled caiman.<br />
Red-eyed leaf frog.<br />
Red-eyed leaf frog.<br />
Tajalines crab.<br />
130 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Corcovado, Costa Rica<br />
Green Basilisk lizard.<br />
Common Basilisk lizard (male).<br />
Tajalines crab.<br />
Common Basilisk lizard (female).<br />
Whiptail lizard.<br />
Photo Essay • Costa Rica | 131
Corcovado, Costa Rica<br />
Baird’s tapir.<br />
Brown-throated three-toed sloth.<br />
Boat-billed heron.<br />
White faced capuchin monkey.<br />
Howler monkey.<br />
132 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Iguana.<br />
Scarlet macaws.<br />
Brown-throated three-toed sloth.<br />
Tri-coloured heron.<br />
Photo Essay • Costa Rica | 133
134 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
135
Northwest Territories<br />
Fort Resolution<br />
Canada’s Wild and Beautiful<br />
Words and Photos by Yrene Dee,<br />
a Lumby (British Columbia, Canada)<br />
based writer and adventurer.<br />
The side-trip to Fort Resolution,<br />
the Chipewyan and<br />
Métis town on the south<br />
shore of Great Slave Lake, was one of<br />
the highlights of my trip to the Northwest<br />
Territories this summer. It was<br />
not only the beautiful town itself that<br />
captured my heart, but it also was<br />
the wonderful people I met during my<br />
short stay.<br />
This tiny, remote community of<br />
570 residents seems to be a forgotten<br />
destination on the tourist trail.<br />
I stopped to get gasoline in Hay River<br />
the day before and mentioned my intention<br />
to visit Fort Resolution to the cashier<br />
behind the desk. He just shrugged his<br />
shoulders: “Fort Res, waste of time” he<br />
muttered, “nothing there”.<br />
I didn’t let myself get off the hook<br />
so quickly. One purpose of my northern<br />
road trip was to visit all of Northwest<br />
Territories small communities<br />
with access roads.<br />
It’s hard to imagine what it is like<br />
living in a remote northern community,<br />
surrounded by wilderness with hardly<br />
any people. The majority of southerners,<br />
as well as the rest of the world,<br />
know little about what life is like in<br />
Canada’s North.<br />
The 84 kilometres (52 mi) tour to<br />
Fort Resolution from the Fort Smith<br />
Highway junction seemed to be a<br />
small price to pay to find out what this<br />
place was all about. And I’m glad I did.<br />
Not many travellers venture this<br />
way and it’s easy to miss. Like other<br />
roads in the Northwest Territories, Fort<br />
Resolution Highway 6 takes you to<br />
where the road runs out; it takes you<br />
to a magic place.<br />
Historic Fort Resolution is situated<br />
in the South Slave Region of the<br />
Northwest Territories, in the land of<br />
waterfalls and wonders. The region<br />
includes the glorious deep freshwater<br />
Great Slave Lake, North America’s<br />
second deepest lake. It is also the<br />
gateway to wildlife and sanctuaries<br />
with roaming herds of bison, endangered<br />
whooping cranes and wolves at<br />
Buffalo Provincial Park.<br />
Fort Res, as it is called by locals,<br />
is the oldest documented European<br />
settlement in the Northwest Territories.<br />
It was founded when the Hudson Bay<br />
Company began trading for furs in the<br />
1780s.<br />
First located at the mouth of the<br />
Slave River, the hamlet was moved to<br />
its present site in 1796. The first settlers<br />
were Cree-Métis. By 1852 priests<br />
arrived and established a mission and<br />
a school. During the 1840s and 1850s,<br />
Fort Resolution was the largest trading<br />
post on Great Slave Lake.<br />
Today trapping remains an important<br />
way of life in the community,<br />
together with commercial fishing and<br />
timber harvesting.<br />
I drove into the hamlet on a gor-<br />
Boardwalk along the Great Slave Lake shore<br />
136<br />
Globerovers •· July <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong> <strong>2019</strong>
geous sunny morning in June after<br />
camping for a night at Little Buffalo<br />
River Crossing Territorial Park, only 30<br />
kilometres (19 mi) away,<br />
Highway 6 is paved all the way to<br />
Fort Resolution but it was a bumpy<br />
ride. Roller coaster bumps are an effect<br />
of melting permafrost on northern<br />
highways.<br />
The streets were empty and the<br />
town looked sleepy when I arrived, but<br />
not for long. I parked at the waterfront<br />
and strolled along the sandy beach. A<br />
man was walking his dog. Two others<br />
walked over to me and asked whether<br />
I needed help. By that time I was sure<br />
that I was the only stranger in town.<br />
Shortly after, I met Louis Balsillie,<br />
the Chief of the hamlet. He answered<br />
some questions I had and shared<br />
insight about life in this remote northern<br />
community. Additionally, he warned me<br />
about bears on the boardwalk trail to<br />
Mission Island, a 45-minute hike along<br />
the lakeshore. Since bears don’t scare<br />
me, I of course, hiked this beautiful trail,<br />
enjoying deep blue skies and a stunning<br />
lake views on a steaming hot day.<br />
Mission Island is a piece of heaven<br />
stretching out into Great Slave Lake.<br />
It is connected to Fort Resolution by<br />
a long boardwalk along calm, shallow<br />
waters and rocky beaches stretching<br />
as for as you can see. When I got to<br />
Mission Island I felt like arriving in another<br />
world. Log cabins and tipis with<br />
information panels along the lakeshore<br />
shaped the landscape telling the stories<br />
of an era gone by.<br />
According to Chief Louis Balsillie, today<br />
the site is used for healing workshops<br />
and cultural events for his community.<br />
Chief Louis turned up shortly after<br />
I started exploring this magical place,<br />
once he saw that I arrived safely he<br />
left again.<br />
I left Fort Resolution late afternoon after<br />
an extraordinary day and was thankful<br />
that I drove to the end of the trail.<br />
Fort Resolution is a place that will<br />
tell you a story, and give you a story to<br />
tell once you get home. If you venture<br />
this way you will be left with special<br />
memories, forever.<br />
I knew that my day’s adventure<br />
wasn’t over yet as I left town and<br />
headed to the abandoned site of Pine<br />
Point located 45 minutes down the<br />
highway. Pine Point was once among<br />
the largest mining towns in the North<br />
and all that is left today is an eerie<br />
network of paved roads and sidewalks<br />
The church at Mission Island<br />
Canada<br />
blending in with the wilderness.<br />
I parked my car in the middle<br />
of a street and stepped out onto<br />
the cracked concrete. A few poplar<br />
saplings had broken through the<br />
pavement where I stood and reached<br />
towards the bright sky. Looking around<br />
me I could feel a kind of sadness and<br />
nostalgia in the air. The town only<br />
existed from 1964 until 1988. All that’s<br />
left today is a story about people’s<br />
lives, tragedy and the hard truth of a<br />
lost town.<br />
Roman Catholic Church<br />
The calm waters of Great Slave Lake<br />
The only original building left<br />
at Mission Island<br />
Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in<br />
Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the<br />
world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness<br />
nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.<br />
Follow Yrene on Twitter @backcountrycana, Facebook @ backcountrycanada, and<br />
Instagram @backcountrycanadatravel.<br />
Contribution • Canada |137
Ta st yTraveller's Treats<br />
Authentic, affordable, clean food is every traveller’s dream.<br />
Enjoy these tasty morsels from far-away places.<br />
Japan<br />
Japan<br />
Japan<br />
138 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
Bali<br />
Malaysia<br />
Colombia Japan<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Vietnam Oman<br />
Macau Hong Kong<br />
Japan<br />
South Africa<br />
Myanmar<br />
Colombia Indonesia Albania<br />
Oman South Africa<br />
Japan Timor Leste<br />
Malaysia<br />
139
140 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
141
“The smallest act of kindness is worth more than the grandest intention.” ~ Oscar Wilde<br />
Volunteering<br />
To pay or not to pay...<br />
By Claire Bennett, Learning Service<br />
Claire lives and works in Kathmandu, Nepal, and freelances<br />
as a trainer and consultant. She is passionate about global<br />
education, ethical travel and ensuring good intentions are<br />
put to good use.<br />
Claire recently released her book: Learning Service: The<br />
Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad.<br />
For more information about volunteering, visit<br />
www.learningservice.info<br />
this was limiting the organization in terms<br />
of how many volunteers we could host as<br />
we couldn’t meet their costs. Volunteers<br />
now have to pay a small contribution for<br />
the accommodation that they stay in (this<br />
doesn’t actually cover the full cost and is far<br />
less than rent in their own country), and a<br />
one-off contribution that goes towards the<br />
costs of recruiting and hosting them.”<br />
The much-debated topic in volunteer<br />
travel is “to pay or not to<br />
pay”. On the surface, paying a<br />
fee to volunteer can seem like a<br />
contradiction in terms—if you are already<br />
offering your time for free and covering<br />
your expenses, why should you also have<br />
to pay? However, the learning service approach<br />
emphasizes that you, as a volunteer,<br />
are a major beneficiary of the process.<br />
Volunteers are not free—it takes a lot<br />
of time, capacity, and money to create and<br />
support a great volunteer experience. The<br />
costs might include marketing and recruitment<br />
costs for the organization to attract<br />
the right volunteers, staff to vet partners<br />
and provide pre- and post-placement support,<br />
and all the in-country costs of hosting<br />
volunteers.<br />
One volunteer hosting organization<br />
said, “Initially volunteers didn’t have to pay<br />
anything, but we realized after a while that<br />
The biggest piece of advice that we have<br />
at Learning Service is to find out how the<br />
volunteer fees are used. Fees may go to the<br />
sending organization to cover the costs of<br />
placing you in a volunteer role, to the local<br />
organization directly to host you, or both.<br />
The fee may include a charitable donation<br />
for the cause you are volunteering to<br />
support. It may also include a large profit<br />
margin for a company. A downside to the<br />
spread of fee-charging placements is that<br />
unscrupulous organizations take on more<br />
volunteers simply for financial gain, even<br />
when there are no roles for them.<br />
So in addition to finding out where<br />
your funds are going, ask questions to find<br />
out if your role really is needed. When you<br />
have the answer and the fee breakdown,<br />
you can reflect on the value for money it<br />
represents and your opinion on the ethics<br />
of the income distribution.<br />
142 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong><br />
Photo: Pixabay<br />
There are ways to volunteer that<br />
do not require a placement fee. Some<br />
matching portals intentionally do not
exchange money with hosting organizations<br />
in the belief that this helps ensure that<br />
volunteers are valued and needed, and not<br />
relied on to generate funds. Some of the<br />
larger government-funded or faith-based<br />
organizations cover volunteer expenses or<br />
even provide a living stipend.<br />
If you do not pay a volunteer fee, think<br />
about who is subsidizing the costs associated<br />
with your placement. It may be you,<br />
taking more time to research and set up<br />
logistics yourself, or the organization overseas<br />
might be taking on extra costs because<br />
they need your skills.<br />
Being aware of all the resources and<br />
time that go into your volunteer placement<br />
and how those might be covered will help<br />
you make the right decision about whether<br />
to pay a placement fee or not.<br />
A final word of warning: it is not<br />
the case that the more you pay, the better<br />
quality the service. We spoke with many<br />
volunteers who paid a lot of money for<br />
their placement and ended up dissatisfied,<br />
often because they had assumed that their<br />
money was going towards things that it was<br />
not.<br />
Not all fee-charging placements have<br />
effective policies for selecting partners or<br />
matching needs, and not all of them offer<br />
much support for volunteers or for partners.<br />
Sometimes none of the money you<br />
pay even reaches the country where you<br />
volunteer.<br />
The bottom line is that good organizations,<br />
for a fee, can do a lot of the logistical<br />
legwork required to provide you with a<br />
positive experience, while the worst organizations<br />
might take your money in profit<br />
and yet still leave you in a disorganized and<br />
poorly planned volunteer placement.<br />
This article is an edited extract from Learning<br />
Service: The Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad,<br />
written by Claire Bennett, Joseph Collins, Zahara<br />
Heckscher and Daniela Papi-Thornton.<br />
Learning Service: The Essential<br />
Guide to Volunteering Abroad<br />
is full of advice on how to volunteer<br />
abroad ethically. It is available to<br />
buy from Amazon.<br />
Follow us:<br />
@learningservice<br />
@Learnser<br />
@learning.service<br />
Photo: Pixabay<br />
Contribution • Volunteering | 143
Po st c a r ds<br />
Olá Mommy,<br />
My first postcard comes<br />
from a church standing on<br />
the shores of a beautiful<br />
caldera lake on a remote<br />
Atlantic Ocean island!<br />
This is the Chapel of<br />
Nossa Senhora das<br />
Vitórias in Furnas, São<br />
Miguel Island, Azores,<br />
PORTUGAL. This privately<br />
owned church was<br />
inaugurated in 1886. The<br />
owner is buried inside.<br />
Love, Lizzy<br />
Salut my loving Mom,<br />
It is freezing cold in the<br />
French-speaking province<br />
of Canada. Yesterday we<br />
had lots of snow so today<br />
I’m having so much fun.<br />
Look at this nice ice slide<br />
right next to the iconic<br />
Hotel Fairmont Le Château<br />
Frontenac in Quebec City,<br />
CANADA. Mom, this<br />
is so much fun, I’m going<br />
down again. Love ya, Lizzy<br />
Ciao Mom,<br />
I’m in a country totally<br />
enclaved by Italy. It is very<br />
small and located high on<br />
top of a mountain. This<br />
is the Castello Della<br />
Cesta, SAN MARINO.<br />
The country is also known<br />
as “Most Serene Republic<br />
of San Marino”. Haha<br />
Love, Lizzy<br />
144 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
to ommby ... Lizzy<br />
Mommy<br />
Ciao Mom,<br />
I am where the pasta and<br />
the wines are the best.<br />
You know I love Italian<br />
wine since I spent time in<br />
Tuscany in 1996. These<br />
towers were built between<br />
the 12th and the 13th<br />
century. They are called<br />
The Leaning Towers<br />
of Bologna - Asinelli<br />
(tallest) and Garisenda<br />
Tower (leaning), ITALY.<br />
Mom, I’m drunk. Love, Liz<br />
Olá Mom,<br />
This is the Ribeira Waterfront in Porto, PORTUGAL<br />
I love it so much here because the wine is very affordable<br />
and so good! I’m now so tipsy. Luv, Lizzy<br />
Sawasdee kaaaaaa Mom,<br />
I’m sorry about this not-sofamily-friendly<br />
photo on this<br />
postcard. These monkeys<br />
tried to impress me with<br />
their tricks. They are<br />
Macaques at the Phra<br />
Prang Sam Yod Temple,<br />
Lopburi, THAILAND.<br />
Love, Lizzy<br />
Postcards to Mommy |<br />
145
More Postcards to Mommy<br />
Mingalarbar Mom,<br />
I am celebrating the New<br />
Year Festival in Nagaland,<br />
MYANMAR. This<br />
is a very remote part of<br />
the world and not far<br />
from the India border. The<br />
people here are still very<br />
traditional and so friendly.<br />
Love you, Lizzy<br />
Hola Mom,<br />
Lovely old house in Cahuita, COSTA RICA.<br />
This rustic village is along the Caribbean Sea and<br />
gateway to the Cahuita National Park. Luv, Lizzy<br />
Hola Mom,<br />
I’m in the jungle in search<br />
of exotic wildlife. Just as<br />
I was walking down a<br />
tiny path I saw a Twotoed<br />
Sloth, in Cahuita<br />
National Park, COSTA<br />
RICA. The sloths are so<br />
cute hanging upside down.<br />
I also saw lots of wildlife.<br />
Love, Lizzy<br />
146 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
... by Lizzy<br />
Kalimera Mom,<br />
From Albania I took a ferry and now I have great views over the old<br />
city from the Old Fortress, Corfu town on Corfu Island, GREECE.<br />
Corfu Island is an interesting island and the old town has lots to see.<br />
Love, Lizzy<br />
Hola Mom,<br />
I am standing in front of the Iglesia de San Jerónimo,<br />
Masaya, NICARAGUA. It was built in 1928 but badly<br />
damaged in the earthquake of 2000.<br />
My donkey cart is waiting Mom, Lizzy<br />
Hola Mom,<br />
Last night I walked through<br />
the streets in search of<br />
a place to eat, then I met<br />
a dutch woman and a<br />
Swedish and a Dutch guy.<br />
They convinced me to<br />
hike up the active Volcan<br />
Conception, Ometepe<br />
Island, Lake Nicaragua,<br />
NICARAGUA.<br />
It took 5 hours to hike up<br />
and 5.5 to get down. Mom<br />
I almost died! Was very hot<br />
and windy at the top.<br />
Your crazy daughter Lizzy.<br />
Postcards to Mommy | 147
SUPER<br />
TRAVELLERS SPOTLIGHT<br />
in the<br />
A <strong>GlobeRovers</strong> Q&A with the “Nomad Revelations” travel blogger at : www.joaoleitao.com<br />
João Leitão of joaoleitao.com<br />
João Leitão is a travel blogger that writes<br />
about exciting journeys into more than<br />
130 countries across Africa, Antarctica,<br />
Asia, Europe, North to South America<br />
and Oceania. Portuguese expat living<br />
in Morocco since 2006, Joao loves to<br />
indulge himself into other cultures and<br />
learn about their languages and deep<br />
traditional values. Although he travels by<br />
all means of transportation, João has a<br />
notorious passion for driving. The ability<br />
to decide where to go to and where to<br />
stop, makes him have a full sense of freedom<br />
while on the road and on his own.<br />
• Turkey » Historically rich and diverse, amazing food and<br />
friendly people.<br />
• Portugal » My home country, full of history, great food, humble<br />
people and the country in Europe with more heritage per<br />
square km.<br />
• Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Region of Tajikistan »<br />
This mountain region gets my attention due to the incredible<br />
landscapes and a very specific culture.<br />
• Brazil » Friendly people, good food, incredibly diverse, the<br />
Amazon regions and the Portuguese heritage architecture<br />
spread all around its territory.<br />
<strong>GlobeRovers</strong> (GR): We talked with João Leitão about his travels<br />
and started by asking how many countries he has visited.<br />
João Leitão (JL): As of September <strong>2019</strong>, I have visited 127 UN<br />
countries but also about 20 non-recognized countries or autonomous<br />
territories spread around the globe. Just recently that I actually<br />
started counting how many countries I’ve been because that was<br />
never my intent. I would have finished all the countries in the world<br />
if I wouldn’t repeat my trips and always come back to the places<br />
I really like in order to explore in-depth. Mauritania I’ve been 7<br />
times, Uzbekistan 5 times, Turkey 14 times, etc, etc.<br />
GR: What are your top 5 most preferred countries for leisure travel?<br />
JL: Tough question but here’s my top 5:<br />
• Morocco » A colorful exotic kingdom full of welcoming and<br />
positive people, with ancient history and landscape diversity.<br />
MYANMAR<br />
GR: Which is your most preferred country for travel and why?<br />
JL: Morocco is my top favorite country to travel to. Although I live<br />
and work in Morocco for more than 12 years, every day I feel that<br />
I’m on the road. The colors, the smiling people, the rich gastronomy,<br />
the breathtaking landscapes and above all is the safety and<br />
feeling welcomed by Moroccan people on a daily basis.<br />
GR: Where do you wish you were right now?<br />
JL: At this moment, I am where I want to be. I’m home, in Ouarzazate,<br />
Morocco.<br />
MOROCCO<br />
GR: Among those countries you have not yet visited, which ones<br />
are at the top of your “must do” list?<br />
JL: Realistically, at this moment I can say I’ve been to all the places<br />
I really wanted to visit, that is why I often return to the same places<br />
instead of making new countries just for the sake of having another<br />
number added to my list. I would like to return and explore more<br />
Turkey, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Russia. I would like to visit Syria<br />
and Pakistan.<br />
148 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
GR: If you could spend the rest of your life somewhere other<br />
than your current home country, which country would that be?<br />
JL: I’m an expat in Morocco since 2006. I also lived more than halfyear<br />
in countries such as Poland, the USA, Finland, Turkey, and<br />
Ukraine.<br />
After I finished university, and following a strong impulse, I moved<br />
to the Sahara Desert with no plans. I just went looking for a place<br />
where I really wanted to be. The rest happened naturally. Nowadays<br />
I have a hotel and a travel agency in the city of Ouarzazate.<br />
Living abroad is very rewarding because we can really immerse<br />
ourselves in a certain culture through daily living with the local<br />
people. Personally, and as I love learning languages, I always make<br />
an effort of improving or learning more about a country language.<br />
GR: Please tell us about the most incredible and memorable<br />
experience you have ever had while travelling?<br />
JL: Never a country I visited left me indifferent. I would go back to<br />
all the countries I’ve been to. That is, everywhere left a mark in me<br />
in their own way.<br />
At this point, and after 20 years on the road, there are so many<br />
memorable experiences that it is kind of hard to put a list together.<br />
But just to mention a few: 1-year 4x4 campervan trip around<br />
Central Asia and the Middle East; the Galapagos archipelago; few<br />
months crossing the Amazon by boat from the Atlantic all the way<br />
to Peru and Ecuador; an Antarctica expedition below the 66º; Egypt<br />
to Sudan by boat up the Nile River; hitchhiking in the Jammu and<br />
Kashmir mountainous region; road trip from Ecuador “Mitad del<br />
Mundo” all the way to Ushuaia “Fin del Mundo”. Etc etc...<br />
GR: Where was the biggest cultural shock you have ever experienced<br />
while traveling and why?<br />
JL: I have never been overwhelmed and culturally shocked during<br />
my travels. Although visiting Mosul city in Iraq just a few months<br />
after its liberation was a bit depressing especially due to the smell of<br />
4000 rotten corpses inside the destroyed old city. The three years of<br />
war with ISIS left devastating marks in Mosul, and both its historical<br />
heritage and its people suffered irreplaceable losses.<br />
GR: What is the most challenging destination you have ever<br />
visited and why?<br />
JL: Possibly crossing some parts of South Sudan and the Democratic<br />
Republic of the Congo, where I had to be escorted by the UN<br />
blue helmets after having some unfortunate encounter with local<br />
people armed with machetes. Furthermore, on the trip, I got myself<br />
into a Congolese hospital with Malaria. The whole story is very<br />
complex, but basically it can be resumed to this.<br />
GR: Based on your travel experiences, if you were to recommend<br />
the one most amazing destination for intrepid travellers, which<br />
place would that be, and why?<br />
JL: Maybe the Yemeni Hadhramaut region which I had the pleasure<br />
of visiting last year. Morocco due to its landscape variety and exotic<br />
vibes, and of course Iran where I had the pleasure to spend four<br />
months on three different trips.<br />
GR: Which people by nationality or subgroup would you say<br />
have been the most hospitable during your travels and why do<br />
you say so?<br />
JL: Without a doubt, all ethnicities inside Morocco, Iran, Turkey,<br />
Afghanistan, and the Russian North Caucasian Federal District’s<br />
YEMEN<br />
149
BRAZIL<br />
autonomous republics. In all these countries and in many occasions,<br />
people get kind of anxious-stressed-sad, if they can’t take you home,<br />
feed you and really welcome you to their home to meet their family.<br />
GR: Let’s get a bit more personal. Do you have any “must take”<br />
items when you travel that you think most travellers don’t think of?<br />
JL: I travel very light never passing 7-10kg of luggage. For a long<br />
time, I exchanged my heavy photo equipment for a good quality<br />
mobile phone. Amazing.<br />
GR: What are the travel apps you use most often while traveling<br />
and why do you find them so useful?<br />
JL: “Maps.me” is very useful to pinpoint offline destinations and<br />
visited places. “Travel Money” app is an easy way of tracking your<br />
expenses while on the road.<br />
GR: Let’s talk about food. Which one country that you visited<br />
has the best food in the world?<br />
JL: For my personal preferences, Turkey and China have the best<br />
food. I turned vegetarian around 14 or 15 years old, so without<br />
a doubt that those two countries make me feel I could get fat if I<br />
stayed longer. In fact, last time I was in Turkey for 2.5 months, I got<br />
an incredible extra 5 kg in weight.<br />
IRAN<br />
GR: Where was the best meal you have ever had during your<br />
travels?<br />
JL: All the meals in any food court in China; Turkish side dishes<br />
and desserts; Moroccan beans, bissara soup, and vegetable couscous;<br />
Best chocolate mousse in Potosí, Bolivia. Best fava beans<br />
breakfast stew in Ethiopia, Sudan, and Yemen. Palestinian and<br />
Israeli falafel and humous are very tasty also.<br />
GR: What is the weirdest place you have ever spent a night?<br />
JL: Wild camping in the middle of the Mauritanian Sahara Desert<br />
and waking up being surrounded by armed people in 4x4 circling<br />
me at high speed; Switching on the light in a cheap hotel in<br />
Honduras and watching thousands of cockroaches fleeing the room<br />
giving the surreal vision as if the walls were moving.<br />
GR: Based on all your travel experiences, what is the best tip you<br />
can offer to new travellers?<br />
JL: There are two types of travelers: those who make their path and<br />
those who follow the already beaten paths.<br />
I would start to say that they shouldn’t waste much time reading<br />
other people’s blogs, because consequently they will make other<br />
people’s dream trips, and never being able to follow your own<br />
discoveries.<br />
Nowadays, people are not looking for their own adventures. People<br />
follow the travels of others. The dreams of others. The adventures<br />
of others. And the places where others took that picture posted on<br />
Instagram.<br />
GR: What is the single best lesson you have learned about the<br />
world during your travels?<br />
JL: Traveling means exploring the unknown. I don’t really travel to<br />
discover myself since at every stage of my life I knew what I wanted,<br />
or the goals I desire to achieve.<br />
I travel to see new things, meet different people and cultures. Basically,<br />
I think I travel to broaden my horizons. That’s it. I get great<br />
satisfaction from being on the road, especially when I have a bit of<br />
adventure on the go.<br />
150 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
During traveling I learned that we all smile, cry, love our family<br />
and like to eat, have fun and enjoy life. Travel can truly reinforce<br />
and challenge our convictions greater than any experience. We are<br />
pushed to the limit in understanding humans.<br />
GR: What is the main focus of your travels?<br />
JL: I like to focus on people, history, and nature. I somehow have<br />
a preference for dusty and warm countries, so it is fantastic to be<br />
able to visit an ancient desert city with friendly people. I like to visit<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Sites that I now count 329 in total. I love<br />
petroglyphs and castles.<br />
GR: You have a popular travel blog and you have a strong social<br />
media following. Some posts are much liked and reposted while<br />
others are not. What do you think makes a travel post popular?<br />
JL: What makes a post popular, is how often and how high it appears<br />
on Google searches. The higher you rank in a search engine,<br />
the more visitors you will get and consequently the more shares you<br />
will get on social media. It doesn’t matter what kind of destination<br />
you have, because there are enough Internet users to share everything<br />
you wrote about. You just need to make yourself noticed.<br />
GR: Travel bloggers who visit intrepid, off-the-beaten-track destinations,<br />
or secret city spots, often have a hard time deciding on<br />
whether they should keep the secret, or broadcast it to the world<br />
to gain lots of attention and new followers (and likely change<br />
that secret location and its people’s lives forever). What are your<br />
thoughts on this? Should we keep the secrets?<br />
JL: I do understand your point. From the start that I blog to share<br />
information so that people can freely explore places that usually<br />
thought to be accessible. But quickly I understood, that people<br />
started to make my trips, instead of making their own trips. Nowadays,<br />
most people dream to make the trips that other bloggers<br />
make, instead of searching for their own adventures. So sometimes<br />
that hidden special place will stop being so secret and special.<br />
GR: Where are you off to next?<br />
JL: I had nothing scheduled for <strong>2019</strong>, and also nothing in mind for<br />
2020. I’m just enjoying being home at the moment. I returned from<br />
a two-year trip so I’m kind of OK not being on the road soon.<br />
GR: And finally, let us do a few rapid-fire questions...<br />
• Favorite airline? TAP, QATAR, EMIRATES.<br />
• Favorite cities? Ouarzazate, Marrakech, Lisbon, Khiva, Yazd,<br />
Istanbul, etc etc<br />
• Favorite village? So many really...<br />
• Favorite beach? All nice and non-polluted sandy beaches.<br />
• Beach or mountain? Both.<br />
• Couch or camping? Camping.<br />
• Bus or train? Both.<br />
• The best words to describe yourself? A curious-silly-polyglot-visual<br />
artist from Portugal living in Morocco, that enjoys<br />
a bit of adventure travel.<br />
GR: Thanks João for sharing your travel wisdom with us. Safe<br />
travel sand keep up with your blog and social media posts to<br />
inspire people to travel and experience the world.<br />
If you ever visit Ouarzazate, stay at João’s<br />
beautiful guest house, Dar Rita. He also<br />
operates RJ Travel Agency to help you plan<br />
your Moroccan adventures.<br />
Follow João Leitão<br />
BLOG<br />
www.joaoleitao.com<br />
FACEBOOK<br />
facebook.com/joaoleitaoviagens<br />
TWITTER<br />
twitter.com/joaoleitao<br />
INSTAGRAM<br />
instagram.com/joaoleitaoviagens<br />
PINTEREST<br />
www.pinterest.com/joaoleitao<br />
INDIA<br />
151
BOOK REVIEW<br />
<strong>GlobeRovers</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> (GM): What, in a nutshell, is this book<br />
about?<br />
Adam Rogers (AR): The Intrepid Traveler is part travelogue, part<br />
travel guide—to anywhere on earth you can imagine going. It<br />
is about traveling to explore and experience what is beyond the<br />
horizons—the horizons “out there” and those that lie within us.<br />
It is my vision that through increased travel and a greater understanding<br />
of the world in which we live, that the world will become<br />
a better place. Global peace and global stability can only come<br />
through global understanding. Understanding comes through<br />
connecting and interacting. Connecting and interacting is what<br />
we should do when we travel.<br />
GM: What inspired you to write this book?<br />
Now available at<br />
Amazon.com, Goodreads.com and<br />
many other online and offline retailers<br />
Globerovers <strong>Magazine</strong> talks with Adam Rogers about his<br />
new revised (3rd edition) book: The Intrepid Traveler.<br />
Adam is a peripatetic writer and explorer who has been<br />
on the road for most of the past 40 years. He is the author<br />
of numerous books including The Intrepid Traveler,<br />
Taking Action, The Earth Summit and The No Mammal<br />
Manifesto: Diet for a new and more sustainable world.<br />
AR: The first edition of this book emerged from a five-year,<br />
around-the-world odyssey that brought me to 50 countries on less<br />
than 100 dollars a month. At that time, the only plan I had was to<br />
leave my home in the northern Yukon Territory of Canada and<br />
Palmyra, Syria, 1984<br />
The Intrepid Traveler<br />
by Adam Rogers<br />
Visit Adam‛s website at www.adamrogers.online<br />
and follow him on Twitter at @adamrogers2030<br />
and on Instagram @ g.adamrogers<br />
keep traveling east until I would end up in the west. When I left, I<br />
thought I could do it in one year, but it ended up taking much longer.<br />
The book was an attempt to both share my experiences and<br />
impart some advice—of situations to seek, and others to avoid.<br />
GM: Why had so much time passed between the 2nd and 3rd<br />
editions?<br />
AR: Not long after the 2nd edition came out, I joined the United<br />
Nations in 1996 and worked there for 22 years. During that time<br />
I was not allowed to published books under my name without<br />
clearance—and in any case I was always too busy writing and<br />
photographing for them. When I took early retirement in 2018, I<br />
knew it was time for a long-overdue update.<br />
While the 1st and 2nd editions were written with the backpacker<br />
in mind – the “traveler” as opposed to the “tourist,” this new<br />
edition expands that understanding to focus on the attitude one<br />
brings to the travel experience. Whether a budget traveler or<br />
Fortune 500 jetsetter, whether you are 18 or 80 years old and travel<br />
with a backpack, a duffel bag or a suitcase, the message is to avoid<br />
“doing” a country and to instead focus on “experiencing” it.<br />
GM: If you could summarize your travel advice in one phrase,<br />
what would it be?<br />
AR: If I had to summarize my travel philosophy in one phrase, it<br />
would be to make sure that our first memories of a travel experience<br />
are not of things we can see on a postcard, or watch on TV.<br />
Our first travel memories should be of the people we<br />
met while there, of conversations and experiences<br />
we shared with them. By all means, see the Egyptian<br />
pyramids; hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu; and<br />
walk on the Great Wall of China, and climb the Eiffel<br />
Tower. But hang out in a local café away from the<br />
tour buses and talk to the descendants of the people<br />
who built those monuments; get to know a family<br />
running an AirBnB; learn local history from your<br />
taxi driver, or take a language lesson from a local<br />
teacher. I always find that the time spent getting to<br />
know the local people is in direct proportion to the<br />
depth and enjoyment of the travel experience—and<br />
152 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
N’Guigmi, Niger, 1999<br />
Dakar Senegal, 1983<br />
every travel experience is as unique and extraordinary as the<br />
person traveling.<br />
In the history of this world there has never been a better time to<br />
explore and never a greater need for increased awareness of the<br />
principles and practices of responsible, ethical, sustainable, and<br />
experiential travel. I really hope that my book can both entertain<br />
and inspire experienced travelers and also encourage people who<br />
have not hitherto done so, to get a passport and set out to explore<br />
those places they have always heard about, and make new friends<br />
while they are there.<br />
GM: How many countries have you visited and what is your<br />
favourite one?<br />
AR: When I started travelling I kept count of countries like a<br />
badge of honour, or notches in my belt. But with time I saw it gets<br />
complicated to keep track. Plus, when you go back to the same<br />
place after ten years, it can be a completely different place. I have<br />
been to both Upper Volta and Burkina Faso – does that count for<br />
two or one? When you are in Israel, you are also in Palestine—<br />
does that count for two?<br />
As for a favourite country, I can not really say I have one—but I do<br />
have a favourite planet.<br />
GM: Do you still have a bucket list after 40 years of exploring<br />
this planet?<br />
AR: Yes, actually, I do have a bucket list and I am starting to make<br />
plans now that I have a bit more time. The Camino Santiago is at<br />
the top of the list, as are the Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Bhutan,<br />
the trans-Siberian railway and Mount Vinson, the highest peak in<br />
Antarctica. The challenge with bucket lists is that the closer you<br />
get to checking everything off, new things keep appearing on the<br />
list. And that is how it should be for an Intrepid Traveler.<br />
GM: Thank you Adam. I really enjoyed this book and it offered<br />
me a lot of advice for my own future travels.<br />
153
In a future issue...<br />
Southern Cambodia<br />
The Cambodian islands in the Gulf of Thailand have long been ignored by most<br />
travellers who tend to flock to neighbouring Thailand. Cambodia’s islands are known<br />
for their lapis-blue waters, jungle-clad interior, swaths of white sand beaches, and<br />
bioluminescent plankton that glows at night. We travelled along the southern coast to<br />
explore the beaches of Ochheuteal and Otres, the colonial towns of Kampot and Kep,<br />
and a few unspoiled idyllic islands including Tonsay, Russei, Rong, and Rong Sanloem.<br />
Tibet - The Roof of the World<br />
Tibet stretches over 2.5 million square kilometres (965,000 sq mi), located south<br />
of China. Here you will find the vast Tibetan Plateau, a region of mountains and<br />
stunning scenery that is generally above 4,000 to 5,000 metres (13,100 to 16,400<br />
ft) in elevation. Tibet is also a land of monks, known as the Bhikkhu, with ample<br />
monasteries they call home. This remote land is often called “The roof of the world”<br />
officially known as the Tibet (Xizang) Autonomous Region (TAR) of China.<br />
Russia’s Lake Baikal<br />
Located in southern Russia’s Siberia, the long crescent-shaped Lake Baikal is the<br />
world’s largest freshwater lake by volume, containing almost a quarter of the world’s<br />
fresh surface water. As the world’s deepest lake, with some of the clearest waters,<br />
Lake Baikal contains more water than the five large North American Great Lakes<br />
combined. The lake is even more impressive during the bitterly cold winters when it<br />
freezes up to 1.5 metres thick, creating an incredible landscape.<br />
Latvia of the Balkans<br />
Latvia, annexed and occupied by the U.S.S.R. since June 1940, declared its independence<br />
on August 21, 1991. Since then, this Baltic country which is squeezed between<br />
Estonia to the north and Lithuania to the south, has increasingly attracted intrepid<br />
travellers with its pristine natural attractions, imposing castles, fortresses, and its<br />
many religious buildings. We explore the cosmopolitan capital Rīga as well as Sigulda,<br />
Turaida, Cēsis, Rundāle, and Bauska. An intriguing country worth a visit.<br />
Brazil’s Paradise Beaches<br />
Brazil is well known for its beautiful beaches. With a coastline stretching for over 7,491<br />
km (4,650 mi) along the South Atlantic Ocean, Brazil has more beaches than we can<br />
count. Its tropical climate and sunlight ensure that beach bums can get a bronze tan<br />
while enjoying the warm surf. We travel from Salvador da Bahia, one of the oldest colonial<br />
cities in the Americas, south along the coast to the beaches of Arraial d’Ajuda and<br />
Trancoso, then onwards to the tropical Ilha Grande Island, and end in Rio de Janeiro.<br />
Myanmar’s Southern Coastline<br />
The coastline from Yangon to Kawthaung, the southernmost town in Myanmar, is<br />
rugged, unspoiled, and undeveloped. While the distance by road is well over 1,000<br />
km (620 mi), much of this road just recently opened up for foreigners. Tourist<br />
infrastructure such as transport and accommodation remain sparse, but the situation<br />
is poised to change in the near future. We travel by train, bus, minivan, and<br />
motorbike, to explore the beautiful coastline devoid of tourists and touristy shops.<br />
Palenque - Mexico’s Ancient Mayan Ruins<br />
Located in the foothills of the Chiapas altiplano of modern Mexico, Palenque was<br />
an important Maya city that flourished between about 600 to 750 AD. Known as<br />
Lakamha by the Mayans, the Spanish colonists called it Palenque, meaning ‘fortified<br />
place’. It is estimated that Palenque once had over 1,000 different structures and at<br />
its peak was the most densely populated of all the Mayan cities. Come along as we<br />
stroll around the ruins of this ancient city.<br />
154 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>
In the<br />
next issue<br />
Southern<br />
Cambodia<br />
155
156 Globerovers · <strong>Dec</strong>ember <strong>2019</strong>