WALK 2 Beinn Leòid from Kylestrome visiting Glendhu & Glencoul BEINN LEÒID FROM BEINN A’ BHÙTHA 36 GLEANN DUBH
WALK 2 Beinn Leòid from Kylestrome visiting Glendhu & Glencoul the Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Dhuibh via a solidly built vehicle bridge, and ascend steadily below the bluffs of Cnoc a’ Mhadaidh, following the path as it contours up towards the exposed upland moor. Once across Allt Poll a’ Mhadaidh, which can be an obstacle in times of spate, the track rises more steeply before coming to an abrupt halt at a rather incongruously placed wooden bridge, lost in the midst of its grand surroundings. 5 Now steel yourself for a battle through the peat hags and bog, before reaching more solid ground on the slopes of Sàil na Slataich. With some relief, the pace quickens over the gently slanting slabs to the high point of 652m. Up ahead Beinn Leòid rises serenely, guarded by a steep boulder field. Clamber through the rocks and onto the summit plateau where a stunning 360-degree panorama opens up. Looking back north, the shattered quartzite slopes of Arkle and Foinaven dominate the scene, and to the east the silvery outline of Loch Shin slips away to the horizon. The complex coires of Quinag take centre stage to the west and Ben More Assynt and Conival rear up to the south, while the tops of Suilven and Canisp are just visible above the whaleback ridge of Beinn Uidhe. And as far as the eye can see, an abundance of lochans sparkle in the sunshine. 6 Reluctantly retreating from the summit, descend to the Bealach Beinn Leòid, quickly crossing another unnamed top, before picking your way down to the outflow of Lochan Druim nam Eithreag. Hop across the channel, and a few hundred yards further south, look out for an All Terrain Vehicle track that isn’t marked on the map and seems to materialise out of thin air. It takes a considered diagonal line down through the crags above Loch an Eircill, onto another wellmaintained stalkers’ path. 7 After the intensity of crossing the open moorland, it is a relief to be able to relax and just follow the track down to Loch Glencoul and Glencoul <strong>Bothy</strong>, tucked away inland from the rocky shore. As you approach sea level again, the impressive crags of the Stack of Glencoul, unseen from a higher altitude, are revealed. Suppress any urge to scramble up to the precarious summit because there is still a long way to go to reach the sanctuary of Glendhu <strong>Bothy</strong>. After a steep final descent, the path crosses the Glencoul River via a vehicle bridge and reaches the lochside, where you are treated to another fabulous vista. Glencoul <strong>Bothy</strong>, a curious extension to the main house built by the Reay Forest Estate, lies above a ring of sculpted islands. From the door you look down the length of the deep fjord towards Unapool and the satellite peaks of Quinag. Here the Elliots raised their five sons, initially using the <strong>bothy</strong> as a schoolhouse. A memorial cross to the two eldest boys who perished in World War I stands on a knoll just above the house. It was financed by the estate owner, the Duke of Westminster. 8 After a quick pit stop, a fabulous little section of the Cape Wrath Trail offers an unforgettable finale to the walk, contouring round the headland of Aird da Loch and down to the head of Loch Glendhu. Cross back over the Glencoul River, and take the path to the left, which rises steadily above the loch, past a newly fenced area of saplings. As you gain height, there is a superb view back to the <strong>bothy</strong>, 37