Eatdrink #80 November/December 2019 - The Holiday Issue
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Eatdrink #80 November/December 2019 - The Holiday Issue

The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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<strong>Issue</strong> <strong>#80</strong> | <strong>The</strong> <strong>Holiday</strong> <strong>Issue</strong> | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

<strong>The</strong> LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Gift<br />

OUR ANNUAL<br />

Guide<br />

page 7<br />

Amazing<br />

GRACE<br />

Conscious Cuisine<br />

in Downtown London<br />

FEATURING<br />

Small Town Treasures<br />

Craft Beers Worth a Road Trip<br />

Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s<br />

New Recipes from Anna Olsen<br />

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!<br />

Mary Poppins at <strong>The</strong> Grand<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />

www.eatdrink.ca

THE CHRISTMAS TRAIL<br />

NOVEMBER 1 - DECEMBER 20<br />

Capture þe spirit of giving and þe joy of checking<br />

off þat list. We’ve made it easy to kick off your<br />

holiday shopping wiþ <strong>The</strong> Christmas Trail – six<br />

gifts for just $30 plus HST.<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

You can purchase your trail at Stratford Tourism,<br />

47 Downie Street; in St. Marys at Village Craft and<br />

Candle; in Shakespeare at <strong>The</strong> British Touch.

eatdrink<br />

<br />

<strong>The</strong> LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,<br />

Mark Kearney, Gary Killops,<br />

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Alieska Robles<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />

Social Media Mind Your Own Business<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

OUR COVER<br />

London’s new restaurant<br />

Grace opened earlier this<br />

year in Downtown London.<br />

Read Bryan Lavery’s<br />

inspiring story on page 16.<br />

© <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total<br />

of 240,000 copies in print. <strong>The</strong> views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. <strong>The</strong> Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />

www.sportswood.on.ca

Contents<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> <strong>#80</strong> | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Holiday</strong> <strong>Issue</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Be Very Merry<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> <strong>Issue</strong> Highlights<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

6<br />

Culinary Retail<br />

Our Annual <strong>Holiday</strong> Gift Guide<br />

Ideas from the Experts<br />

Compiled by <strong>The</strong> Editors<br />

7<br />

Restaurants<br />

Amazing Grace<br />

Conscious Canadian Cuisine<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

16<br />

Gift<br />

Guide<br />

OUR ANNUAL<br />

7<br />

53<br />

<strong>The</strong> BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

41<br />

<strong>The</strong>atre<br />

Supercalifragilistic!<br />

Mary Poppins at the Grand <strong>The</strong>atre<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

53<br />

Books<br />

A Gourmet Life<br />

Save Me the Plums<br />

By Ruth Reichl<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

56<br />

Road Trips<br />

A Southwest Ontario Journey<br />

Our Local Flavour Guide Expansion<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

22<br />

Beer<br />

Small Town Treasures<br />

12 Small Craft Breweries<br />

Worth a Road Trip<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

34<br />

16<br />

56<br />

Recipes<br />

Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s<br />

with Anna Olsen<br />

by Anna Olson<br />

Review & Recipe Selections<br />

by TRACY TURLIN<br />

58<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lighter Side<br />

A Child’s Christmas<br />

By MARK KEARNEY<br />

62<br />

Wine<br />

VQA Wines<br />

Embracing the Destination<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

38<br />

38<br />

58

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 5<br />

Book Now for Our<br />

Christmas Day<br />

Buffet!<br />

Seatings at 11am, 2pm & 5pm<br />

JOIN US<br />

For Our Famous All-You-Can-Eat<br />

Dickens Lunch Buffet<br />

<strong>November</strong> 25 to <strong>December</strong> 20<br />

Monday to Friday 11:30am to 2pm<br />

Call for reservations<br />

519-430-6414<br />

And ask about our RESERVE A BIRD<br />

Take Out Turkey Dinner for up to 20 People!<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />

¦

6 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Be Very Merry<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> <strong>Issue</strong> Highlights<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

I<br />

well remember a more youthful and<br />

innocent excitement about the holiday<br />

season, thumbing through the Sears<br />

Christmas catalogue for inspiration and<br />

details on the latest toys and games. When<br />

did the emphasis change from “getting” to<br />

“giving”? No doubt that was a process that<br />

unfolded over time, but that brought its own<br />

joys and excited feelings of anticipation.<br />

Instead of a list with just my name on it,<br />

the task was to figure out the best idea for<br />

Mom, Dad, and six siblings. It was a good<br />

day indeed when each was taken care of<br />

and stroked off the list. Even better was<br />

the moment of placing them, carefully<br />

gift-wrapped (maybe in a box to<br />

disguise any hint of the contents),<br />

under the family Christmas tree.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a similar feeling putting<br />

out the <strong>Eatdrink</strong> <strong>Holiday</strong> <strong>Issue</strong>.<br />

We’ve been thinking about this<br />

for awhile. This is an important<br />

event on our calendar, and that<br />

really needs no explanation.<br />

Our advertisers are keen to get their message<br />

out, and readers are keen to hear it. For many<br />

businesses, this is the most critical time<br />

of year for revenue generation. For many<br />

consumers, there is a presumption that they<br />

will be spending more than usual. While that<br />

is undoubtedly a stress for some, we hope that<br />

expectation comes with an understanding<br />

that this can be — should be — a lifeaffirming<br />

activity that enhances warm<br />

feelings of family and community. We want<br />

to be making wise choices, mixed with letting<br />

loose with silly fun or indulgences that bring<br />

extra joy to life. Being a bridge between our<br />

advertisers and our readers is the rationale for<br />

the business side of our magazine’s existence.<br />

Doing that with integrity, creativity, and<br />

gratitude is what makes this work satisfying.<br />

I always enjoy assembling our annual<br />

gift guide. What an eclectic collection of<br />

ideas! <strong>The</strong>re is literally something there for<br />

everyone, but dare I say that what I love most<br />

about this is the spur this gives me to be<br />

creative in my gift giving? Thank you to all of<br />

our contributors.<br />

London’s new restaurant Grace opened<br />

earlier this year amidst extensive construction<br />

in Downtown London. Executive Chef Angela<br />

Murphy and her talented team have handled<br />

this with ... you know ... grace. In fact,<br />

they’re overcoming more than roadwork<br />

barriers and inconveniences that won’t be<br />

fully over for another few weeks. Read<br />

Bryan Lavery’s story about how there is<br />

much more than meets the eye going<br />

on at Grace, but what is visible is<br />

equally inspiring.<br />

We’ve been almost overwhelmed<br />

with the positive reaction we got<br />

when we opened up <strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s<br />

annual Local Flavour Culinary<br />

Guide to most of Southwest<br />

Ontario. I’ve provided a sneak<br />

peek into what that’s going to<br />

be, and the journey this has been, as we look<br />

forward to the birth of our new publication<br />

in a few short weeks. We’re looking forward<br />

to distributing what will be more like a book<br />

than a magazine.<br />

Choosing to go another route than “holiday<br />

suggestions,” our beer and wine writers address<br />

an approach to imbibing choices more than<br />

specifics (although the latter are there too). In<br />

short: Buy local. Make VQA wines and local<br />

craft beers part of your seasonal celebrations!<br />

You’ll find plenty of other holiday ideas<br />

in the rest of the magazine, including an<br />

expanded BUZZ column full of exciting news<br />

and opportunities. We hope that everyone will<br />

connect with the holiday spirit we’re feeling<br />

here, and finish <strong>2019</strong> enjoying life’s blessings.<br />

Peace,

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Culinary Retail<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 7<br />

Gift<br />

Guide<br />

OUR ANNUAL<br />

It really IS<br />

better to<br />

give than<br />

to receive<br />

—when you find<br />

the perfect gift that<br />

is warmly received,<br />

and you haven't felt<br />

caught up in shopping mall<br />

madness. To help you achieve this end, we've<br />

polled a fine range of independent retailers —<br />

the real shopping experts — for suggestions<br />

for the special people in your life. Whether<br />

you're looking for a big present for someone<br />

close to your heart, or a small gift for a<br />

hostess or your friend at work, here are some<br />

new as well as tried-and-true suggestions<br />

from the experts. Happy Shopping!<br />

Established in 1895, Bradshaws remains one of<br />

Canada’s great stores. <strong>The</strong> emphasis is on pieces<br />

that are design-driven “lifetime” purchases and<br />

unique and innovative products. Such as this<br />

Modern Sprout Ritual Live Well Gift Set.<br />

Grow, steep and sip.<br />

This set encourages<br />

you to take a moment<br />

s<br />

for yourself everyday. Chamomile is the<br />

perfect herbal pairing for this all-in-one<br />

ceramic tea steeper and mug. <strong>The</strong> Chamomile<br />

Bamboo Grow Kit comes with a complete<br />

passive hydroponic system, plus non-GMO<br />

chamomile seeds. <strong>The</strong> ceramic mug has a<br />

nested tea leaf strainer that is easily removed<br />

for a perfectly timed brew. <strong>The</strong> lid acts as a<br />

cover to keep tea warm during brewing and<br />

doubles as a coaster for the strainer.<br />

$66.95 Bradshaws • 129 Ontario St, Stratford •<br />

www.bradshawscanada.com • 519-271-6283<br />

<strong>The</strong> new CREW Winery & Gallery is now<br />

officially open 7 days a week, with a tasting<br />

bar, a new menu, and retail space that<br />

offers perfect gifts for the wine lovers on<br />

your list. Enjoy your favourite vintage and<br />

keep it at the perfect temperature for hours<br />

on end with the sleek and stylish Bevi<br />

Insulated Wine Tumbler. Made of plastic<br />

and high-grade stainless steel, in a variety<br />

of attractive colours, this double-walled and<br />

vacuum-sealed, shatterproof tumbler keeps<br />

any beverage cold for up to 9 hours, and hot<br />

drinks warm for up to 3 hours. $24.95 CREW<br />

Winery • 108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON •<br />

www.fb.com/crewinery • 519-738-9800

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Nov 2<br />

Nov 3<br />

Nov 16<br />

Nov 17<br />

Nov 21<br />

Nov 27<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> Events & Highlights<br />

Harry Potter Trivia Night (v2.0) Adult Edition<br />

Harry Potter Trivia Night – Family Friendly Edition<br />

<strong>The</strong> Art of Cup Tossing: Reading the Tea Leaves<br />

(Level One Novice Course)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Art of Cup Tossing: Reading the Tea Leaves<br />

(Level Two Adavnced Course)<br />

Songwriter Showcase & Stove-Top Chai (3rd Thursday)<br />

Writing Workshop Series – with award-winning author<br />

Valerie Mills-Milde<br />

Nov 28–Dec 12 Healing Angels of the Energy Field Meditation<br />

Course (3 Thursday evenings)<br />

Dec 4<br />

Dec 15<br />

Writing Workshop Series – with award-winning author<br />

Valerie Mills-Milde<br />

Christmas Afternoon Tea Service<br />

268 Piccadilly Street (at Wellington)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm<br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing<br />

Stratford favourite, with two floors displaying<br />

an eclectic range of goods from around the<br />

world. You’ll find a fine selection of Dunoon’s<br />

Information and Knowledge Mugs that<br />

will educate and astound you with unusual<br />

facts and figures. With numerous themes,<br />

there is something for most fields of interest<br />

and trivia enthusiasts everywhere. Fine bone<br />

china, made in England. From $31 – $37 each.<br />

Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar • 84 Ontario Street,<br />

Stratford • watsonsofstratford.com • 519-273-1790<br />

Gift Baskets to meet<br />

any need and price range<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our unique<br />

handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

Monday–Saturday 9-5<br />

Christmas Eve 9–2<br />

Closed Christmas<br />

& Boxing Day<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

From the Meadow handcrafts a wide range of<br />

natural healing products at their “Farmacy”<br />

outside Belmont, including natural cosmetics,<br />

cleansers, toners, soaps and so much more.<br />

A great selection of items are also available<br />

at their booth at <strong>The</strong> Market at Western<br />

Fair, with special gift packages for the<br />

home, women, men, babies, Valentine’s Day,<br />

and the holiday season. <strong>The</strong> Candy Cane<br />

Christmas Gift Set includes candy cane<br />

soap, peppermint lip balm, and peppermint<br />

body butter. $20. From the Meadow • 3881 Avon<br />

Drive (Hwy 37), Belmont • fromthemeadow.com •<br />

519-269-3961

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

This year, <strong>The</strong> Pristine Olive owner Jamie<br />

Griffiths has created a variety of delicious gift<br />

ideas. <strong>The</strong> Pristine Olive’s Gift Packs can<br />

be fully customized for everyone on your list.<br />

Choose from over 65 flavours of fresh extra<br />

virgin olive oils and balsamic vinegars, in a<br />

variety of sizes. travelling, or just heading<br />

out for dinner, this pack is your perfect<br />

travel companion, or a delicious gift idea for<br />

everyone on your list. $12 – $44 <strong>The</strong> Pristine<br />

Olive • 884 Adelaide Street North, London •<br />

www.thepristineolive.com • 519-433-4444<br />

An enticing range of pampering bath and<br />

beauty products might be expected at a<br />

lavender<br />

farm shop,<br />

but Steed &<br />

Company<br />

Lavender<br />

also offers a<br />

lovely Home<br />

Essentials<br />

collection —<br />

the Lavender<br />

Pillow Spray<br />

is literally<br />

dreamy!<br />

— and a<br />

number of<br />

delicious<br />

culinary<br />

items, including lavender-enhanced jams,<br />

syrups, honey and tea. Steed & Co. Gift<br />

Collections start at $16.95. Steed & Company<br />

Lavender • 47589 Sparta Line, RR#5 Aylmer • www.<br />

steedandcompany.com • 519-494-5525<br />

Visit our store or shop ONLINE at<br />

www.bradshawscanada.com

Buy Less. Choose Well.<br />

Assorted Chef’s<br />

Knife Rolls<br />

High quality, Canadian made<br />

leather goods and chef accessories<br />

159 King St. South, Unit 2, St. Marys<br />

or order online<br />

haversackleather.ca<br />

HOLIDAY CHEER<br />

IS HERE!<br />

Your <strong>Holiday</strong><br />

FEAST HEADQUARTERS<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> Seasonings • Gourmet Foods • Gifts <strong>The</strong>y’ll Use!<br />

223 Colborne St., Port Stanley, Open Daily<br />

<strong>The</strong> Market at Western Fair, London, Sat & Sun<br />

519.782.7800 peppertreespice.com<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Sha Choix is a year-round favourite for unique<br />

gifts and accessories, and a highlight in the<br />

annual Wortley Village Shopping Event — this<br />

year on <strong>November</strong> 21. (Hint: Extended hours,<br />

one-night specials, 25% off at Sha Choix!)<br />

Expect to find stylish women’s apparel,<br />

including shoes,<br />

scarves, hats, and<br />

shawls for the season,<br />

and endless gift ideas,<br />

from handmade<br />

soap to men’s<br />

shavings supplies.<br />

A store specialty<br />

is their large everchanging<br />

selection<br />

of accessories and<br />

unique jewellery,<br />

from funky to chic,<br />

like these gorgeous Tibetan rings in a variety<br />

of colours and styles. From $48 – $60. Special<br />

Offer: Bring a copy of this <strong>Eatdrink</strong> magazine to<br />

receive 15% off! Sha Choix • 158 Wortley Road,<br />

London • www.fb.com/shachoix • 519-204-6336<br />

<strong>The</strong> civilized and restorative taking of Cream<br />

Tea, a form of British afternoon tea (a light<br />

meal), consists of<br />

tea enjoyed with<br />

a combination of<br />

scones, clotted<br />

cream, and jam.<br />

Show someone you<br />

care with <strong>The</strong> Village<br />

Teapot’s Cream<br />

Tea Gift Basket,<br />

including delicious<br />

tea, a jar of clotted cream, local jam, and fresh<br />

scones. $35.00, cello-wrapped with a ribbon.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Village Teapot • 13257 Ilderton Rd, Ilderton •<br />

www.thevillageteapot.ca • 519-298-8327<br />

Gerhard Metzger’s Christmas-themed<br />

salamis are available at Metzger Meats in<br />

Hensall or at <strong>The</strong> Village Meat Shop at <strong>The</strong><br />

Market at Western<br />

Fair. <strong>The</strong>se festive<br />

salamis are perfect<br />

for gift baskets and<br />

stocking stuffers<br />

for the meat-lovers<br />

on your list. $7.99–<br />

$9.99 Metzger Meat<br />

Products • 180 Brock<br />

Ave, Hensall • www.<br />

metzgermeat.com •<br />

519-262-3130

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

In the heart of<br />

Wortley Village,<br />

Impressions is<br />

an inspiring and<br />

chic boutique where<br />

fashion motivates creativity, with pieces from<br />

Canada, Europe and the US. You’ll find casual<br />

clothing, dresses, outfits, outerwear and<br />

accessories. Special items this season include<br />

the Rhodes Laptop Bag by Louenhide<br />

($119), a cozy alpaca scarf by Pokoloko<br />

($97.99), and a warm and toasty toque by<br />

Furlux (50% cashmere, 50% wool, $110).<br />

Red leather gloves ($49.99) always make a<br />

statement and are perfect with a black, red<br />

or winter white coat. Impressions • 148 Wortley<br />

Road, London • www.fb.com/Impressions-of-<br />

Wortley-Village-127585337648811 • 519-204-1975<br />

Somerset Fine Wines has established a<br />

strong reputation for “winemaking at its<br />

finest,” offering<br />

a wide variety of<br />

quality wine at an<br />

affordable price.<br />

Gift certificates for<br />

wine-making are<br />

available. <strong>The</strong>y also<br />

have an extensive<br />

range of gifts for<br />

wine lovers, from<br />

festive holiday<br />

decorations,<br />

accessories and<br />

glasses, such as<br />

these Trudeau<br />

Oxygen Wine<br />

Glasses. <strong>The</strong><br />

elegant embossing oxygenates as you pour<br />

or swirl your favourite wine, releasing its full<br />

aroma and taste. Starting at $19.99.<br />

Somerset Fine Wines • 150 Exeter Road, London •<br />

www.somersetfinewines.com • 519-652-3998<br />

“Winterberry” Pottery<br />

Encapsulating the true essence of<br />

<strong>December</strong> and festive gathering tableware.<br />

WATSON’S<br />

CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />

84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790<br />

Awaken Your Tastebuds!<br />

Choose from over 50 of the freshest and<br />

finest extra virgin olive oils and aged<br />

balsamic vinegars ...<br />

Great Gift Ideas<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

21 York Street, Stratford<br />

519-508-1757<br />

oliveyourfavourites.com

12 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Pepper Tree Spice Co. is well known for their huge selection of more than<br />

300 organic fine spices & artisan blends including a large selection of<br />

specialty gourmet foods, kitchenware, cookware and more. This season,<br />

you’ll find amazing gift ideas for every budget, including this 4-piece<br />

Natural Living Gold Tone Cheese Knife Gift<br />

Set, $26.95. Buy separately or pair with in-store<br />

local artisan cheeses and gourmet goodies to<br />

create the ultimate gift basket. Pepper Tree Spice<br />

Co. • Port Stanley, 223A Colborne St. (Daily); London<br />

Western Fair Market, 900 King St. (Weekends) • www.<br />

peppertreespice.com • 519-782-7800<br />

Owner Kate St Laurent and her hospitable<br />

Bake Shop Studio crew deliver everything one<br />

expects in a boutique bakery. <strong>The</strong>y specialize<br />

in beautiful, made-from-scratch cakes<br />

and pastries, including wedding, birthday,<br />

bridal and shower cakes. <strong>The</strong> shop is just<br />

hard enough to find that a visit feels like<br />

discovering a secret treasure trove. Located<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />

115 King St., London Ontario<br />

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />

Open Sundays Until Christmas<br />

in Wortley Village, upstairs above the former<br />

Village Harvest Bakery, walk-ins will find an<br />

enticing array of cookies, cupcakes and French<br />

macarons. Perfect for holiday festivities or<br />

just a special treat, this Bake Shop Studio<br />

Cookie Box includes 16 gluten-free mini<br />

cookies, that will be gift wrapped with a<br />

bow. $30. Bake Shop Studio • 145 Wortley Road,<br />

London • bakeshopstudio.com • 519-319-6167<br />

Your sustainable studio who cares<br />

hair • colour • barber • skin • spa • makeup • 4 everyone<br />

140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London<br />

519 709 4247<br />

www.studioHartistgroup.com<br />

@studioHartistgroup

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tea Lounge has<br />

established a loyal<br />

following as a relaxing<br />

place for a beverage<br />

and a nutritious bite,<br />

as well as for its classes<br />

exploring various aspects of “tea culture.”<br />

Now available are three new Performance<br />

Tea <strong>The</strong>rapeutic CBD + Adaptogen Teas.<br />

Each serving contains 20mg of high quality,<br />

full spectrum, hemp CBD for excellent<br />

anti-inflammatory and nervous system<br />

support. CBD + Adaptogen formulations are<br />

designed to support performance recovery,<br />

mobility & movement and sleep. <strong>The</strong>y also<br />

have three formulations of Green Tea +<br />

Adaptogens that are excellent to support<br />

peak performance during the day.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tea Lounge • 268 Piccadilly Street, London •<br />

tealoungelondon.com • 519-601-TEAS (8327)<br />

Heather Wenman, a National Ambassador<br />

for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada, is CEO of<br />

Studio H Artist Group — “London’s sustainable<br />

salon, barber & spa who cares” — leading<br />

a talented team that’s proudly conscientious<br />

of the environment<br />

while helping their<br />

clients look and be<br />

their best. Studio H<br />

uses ammonia-free<br />

and non-perfumed<br />

colour and styling<br />

products and is now<br />

offering 20% off the<br />

L’Oréal Naturality<br />

line LA SOURCE<br />

Essentielle for sustainable<br />

gifting this holiday season. <strong>The</strong> Shampoo +<br />

Conditioner Gift Pack is now $58 (regular<br />

$74). Varying formulas are available, with<br />

80–100% natural, high-quality ingredients.<br />

<strong>The</strong> eco-designed shampoo bottles are refillable<br />

in the salon, with an additional 20% off<br />

each refill for reducing plastics. Studio H Artist<br />

Group • 140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London •<br />

studioHartistgroup.com • 519-709-4247<br />

Natural Healing Products<br />

handcrafted with locally grown, pure,<br />

simple, wholesome ingredients<br />

We’ve assembled a large variety of<br />

Gift Packages & <strong>Holiday</strong> Singles<br />

at both of our great locations!<br />

519-269-3961<br />

fromthemeadow.com<br />

<strong>The</strong> Farmacy<br />

3881 Avon Drive (Hwy 37), Belmont<br />

MON–FRI 10–4, SAT 10–2<br />

OPEN HOUSE!<br />

DEC. 5, 3–8<br />

DEC. 7, 10–4<br />

<strong>The</strong> Market at Western Fair District<br />

SAT 8–3, SUN 10–2<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />

DISCOVER.<br />

INDULGE.<br />

ESCAPE.<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 20<br />

steedandcompany.com<br />

Join us for our<br />

Christmas<br />

Open House<br />

<strong>November</strong><br />

16 & 17

14 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Jill’s Table offers a wide variety of specialty food items, kitchen gadgets,<br />

cookware, bakeware and fabulous cooking classes. As part of her store’s<br />

20th year of operation, owner Jill Wilcox has created a unique holiday<br />

idea. <strong>The</strong> Jill’s Table Anniversary Food Box is “a gift box for food<br />

lovers!” Each box offers a unique assortment of products from around<br />

the world, some that aren’t always available in the store. Jill has sourced<br />

items from their country of origin, often working with small, familyowned<br />

companies. <strong>The</strong> initial box will be available for pick-up<br />

in the store until <strong>December</strong> 24. You can also subscribe to Jill’s<br />

Food Subscription Series which includes three boxes. Pick up<br />

your first box by Christmas Eve. <strong>The</strong> other two boxes will be delivered<br />

in March and June 2020 directly to your home (Delivery is included<br />

Haversack<br />

Leather Goods<br />

proprietor<br />

Natalie<br />

Crittenden<br />

does a great<br />

deal of custom<br />

work but also<br />

makes a wide<br />

variety of<br />

extraordinary<br />

products available<br />

for purchase,<br />

including motorcycle<br />

accessories, leather<br />

purses, bags, wallets<br />

and more. Married<br />

to a chef, she has<br />

designed and created inspired products for anyone<br />

who loves to cook. Haversack Knife Rolls come<br />

in many colours and materials including canvas<br />

or waxed canvas, as well as luxurious and sturdy<br />

leathers. This is a great way to safely transport<br />

precious tools to the cottage, boat, vacation rental<br />

or a professional kitchen. Haversack goods are<br />

made in Canada and built to last. Prices start at $99.<br />

Haversack Leather Goods • 159 King Street South, St.<br />

Marys • www.haversackleather.ca<br />

In the Heart of Wortley Village<br />

and currently<br />

only available<br />

within London<br />

city limits.<br />

Quantities are<br />

limited. First Box is $89.99. Subscription<br />

for 3 boxes is $299.99. Jill’s Table • 115 King<br />

Street, London • jillstable.ca • 519-645-1335<br />

Toast the holiday season with Cowbell<br />

Brewing Co.’s Almanac <strong>2019</strong> Imperial<br />

Stout. Almanac is luscious and delicious,<br />

showing off notes of roasted malt,<br />

espresso, chocolate, molasses and a hint<br />

of fudge and<br />

dark fruit<br />

complexity,<br />

making it<br />

the perfect<br />

complement<br />

to any holiday<br />

gathering.<br />

Get 10%<br />

off purchases<br />

online using<br />

the discount code EatDrink10.(code<br />

valid until <strong>December</strong> 31, <strong>2019</strong>). Cowbell<br />

Brewing Co. • 40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth •<br />

cowbellbrewing.com • 1-844-523-4724<br />

Sha<br />

Choix<br />

GIFTS & ACCESSORIES<br />

Handmade Jewellery<br />

Glam items<br />

Shoes, bags and clutches<br />

Unique Gifts<br />

Luxe Free Cappuccino Service<br />

158 Wortley Road, London<br />

519.204.6336<br />

shachoix.com<br />

facebook.com/shachoix<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong><br />

Shopping<br />

Event!<br />

Nov. 21

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Anderson Craft Ales is<br />

offering an incredibly<br />

soft crew neck sweater<br />

that became an instant<br />

favourite around the<br />

brewery. <strong>The</strong> blackon-black<br />

logo across<br />

the front of the high<br />

neck, cotton blend<br />

sweater is subtle but<br />

neatly identifies the<br />

wearer as an Anderson<br />

supporter. Package<br />

this with a special<br />

bottle or six pack for<br />

the craft beer fan on your list. Sweater $35<br />

Anderson Craft Ales • 1030 Elias Street, London •<br />

andersoncraftales.ca • 548-888-ALES (2537)<br />

A gift certificate from a unique store or a<br />

fabulous local restaurant can be a reflection<br />

of your good taste and the interests of the<br />

recipient. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

are available from<br />

most businesses, in<br />

denominations that<br />

fit your budget.<br />

$100 Value<br />

Boutique Bakery<br />

Buttercream Cakes,<br />

Cookies and<br />

French Macarons<br />

gluten free and<br />

vegan options<br />

Wedding<br />

Consultations<br />

by Appointment<br />

145 Wortley Road, London<br />

Upstairs— above the former Village Harvest Bakery<br />

bakeshopstudio.com

16 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Amazing Grace<br />

Conscious Canadian Cuisine at Grace in Downtown London<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY | Photos by ALIESKA ROBLES<br />

It’s rare that a restaurant of this calibre<br />

comes along. It makes us rethink<br />

food and restaurant policies in fresh<br />

and meaningful ways. Those who<br />

have patronized downtown London’s Grace<br />

Restaurant will have insight into the<br />

obstacles of building a restaurant in<br />

a former fast food location in the<br />

middle of a construction zone. Grace<br />

is a cosmopolitan urban experience,<br />

an ambitious undertaking, and a<br />

dedicated affirmation of co-owner/<br />

executive chef Angela Murphy’s<br />

expectation of the transformational<br />

effects of the new flex street known as Dundas<br />

Place. This revitalized streetscape is expected to<br />

encourage urban renewal and pedestrian traffic,<br />

and to provide enhanced economic and social<br />

opportunities and residential intensification.<br />

<strong>The</strong> promise of increased foot traffic, alfresco<br />

dining and a setting that showcases the<br />

heritage and character of the downtown are<br />

among the reasons that the team at Grace<br />

gravitated to the Dundas Place concept.<br />

Named for Grace Murphy, Angela’s<br />

grandmother, the 72-seat restaurant<br />

prioritizes quality, seasonality,<br />

locally-procured ingredients,<br />

industry fairness, community<br />

engagement, and social<br />

responsibility. Ingredients are used<br />

consciously and allow the flexibility to<br />

change menu items or rotate dishes. At<br />

last count, there were 65 different suppliers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> assurance at Grace is that the food<br />

and drink are crafted with artistry and<br />

uncompromising dedication to excellence and<br />

intention. <strong>The</strong> offering is billed as “Conscious

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

A minimalist dining room (opposite page) helps maintain<br />

a focus on the food at Grace. Relax in the lounge (above),<br />

or at the bar in front of the open kitchen. Comfortable<br />

banquettes (below) add warmth and help define the space.<br />

Merry Makers Fair<br />

Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 10, 11am–4pm<br />

Christmas Merry Makers Fair<br />

Sunday, <strong>December</strong> 15, 11am–4pm<br />

100% handmade events held in the heart of<br />

the Forest City. <strong>The</strong> Merry Makers Fair mission<br />

is simple: to inspire and encourage<br />

up-and-coming small, 100% handmade<br />

businesses and connect<br />

them with conscious consumers in<br />

London. You'll find some of the<br />

best handmade shopping around,<br />

from Art, Home Decor, Jewelry,<br />

Clothing, and Bath & Beauty<br />

products. Join us upstairs on<br />

the Mezzanine. Admission is<br />

free. Find everything you need to complete<br />

your Christmas list while supporting local at<br />

the same time!<br />

Whimsical Christmas Craft Show<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 23rd, 9am–5pm<br />

NEW to the Market this year! Join us<br />

upstairs on the Mezzanine. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

will be plenty of things to<br />

see and purchase for the<br />

holiday season! Crafts, food and<br />

so much more!<br />

Photo courtesy of Bryan Lavery<br />

Enjoy half an hour Monday–Friday and 2 Hours<br />

FREE parking on Saturday and Sunday, upon validation.<br />

For more event info visit coventmarket.com<br />

or our Facebook page<br />

Canadian Cuisine,” draws on tradition, and<br />

is infused with regional influences and local<br />

flavours. Intention is a mandate at Grace,<br />

requiring focus, action and good energy to<br />

manifest. Even the minimalist backdrop<br />

co-created by Design House intentionally<br />

allows for the drama of the plating of the<br />

dishes to be a primary focus.<br />

Market Hours<br />

Monday to Saturday<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

18 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

At Grace, Executive Chef/C0-Owner Angela Murphy offers<br />

“Conscious Canadian Cuisine” — drawing on tradition<br />

infused with regional influences and local flavours.<br />

Murphy’s vision with sous chefs Cody<br />

Tanner-Slater and Kyle Newman is aspirational<br />

and modern with multi-cultural riffs and<br />

influences that are uniquely Canadian.<br />

We have sampled many of the dishes and<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

especially loved the devilled Aylmer shrimp<br />

with smoked tomato, sweet potato, cured<br />

egg yolk, mustard greens and poppy seeds.<br />

Impeccable melt-in-your-mouth fresh Lake<br />

Erie pickerel was a seasonal special served with<br />

Hasselback potatoes, French beans, and dill<br />

and caper beurre blanc. Other favourites were<br />

the House Ricotta with toasted chilies, stone<br />

fruit, pistachios, sweet olive oil and toast.<br />

Pastry chef Roger Porcellato has a<br />

passion for baking artisanal bread and<br />

crafting pastries. <strong>The</strong>re is a dedicated focus<br />

on creating all things in-house. Roger has<br />

worked at the former Church Restaurant in<br />

Stratford, the former Berlin in Kitchener,<br />

and Newfoundland’s Fogo Island Inn. An<br />

uncompromising perfectionist, Porcellato<br />

collaborates with Murphy on an evolving<br />

robust bread and pastry program. Like the<br />

rest of the culinary team, his subtleties<br />

and strengths reveal the qualities of the<br />

ingredients used in the restaurant.<br />

Lauren Fitzgerald has curated a charismatic,<br />

spirit-forward seasonal craft cocktail and beer<br />

program. Sommelier/partner Pete Annson<br />

has instituted an interesting and eclectic wine<br />

Photo courtesy of Grace Restaurant<br />

WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!<br />

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter by going to eatdrink.ca/contests<br />

Contest ends <strong>December</strong> 27, <strong>2019</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Barbara Frampton,<br />

winner of our September/October Draw!

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 19<br />

Sous Chef Cody Slater<br />

selection that emphasizes the importance of<br />

small production vineyards.<br />

Murphy pursued academics out of high<br />

school and has a double major degree in<br />

Humanities and English Literature. She<br />

attended Stratford Chefs School, graduating<br />

in 2011. At the Windermere Café, Murphy<br />

Executive Chef Angela Murphy<br />

was mentored by Kristian Crossen (formerly<br />

of Braise and Langdon Hall, and now Food<br />

and Beverage Manager/Executive Chef for<br />

Great Hall Catering at Western). Murphy<br />

succeeded Crossen and took over the reins at<br />

Windermere Manor’s new Restaurant Ninety<br />

One, where she nurtured direct relationships<br />

In print.<br />

Online.<br />

SINCE<br />

2007<br />

Pick up your free copy wherever<br />

discerning readers are found, or<br />

conveniently read the whole<br />

issue on your computer, tablet<br />

or smartphone.<br />

eatdrink<br />

THE LOCAL FOOD & DRINK MAGAZINE<br />

Get Connected!<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca

20 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

with farmers and suppliers before conceptualizing Grace.<br />

<strong>The</strong> staffing model challenges the traditional roles of the<br />

front and back-of-house, with the cooks often serving and<br />

engaging with tables. It is an open kitchen in the most real<br />

sense, approachable and transparent. Murphy knows that<br />

it is fiscally responsible to make an investment in training<br />

workers properly about the various positions within the<br />

restaurant. “We recognized in the beginning that we were<br />

going to have a high labour cost. We pay our employees a<br />

living wage. We are trying to make the best of the fact that<br />

the capitalist systems — paying workers less than a living<br />

wage — in the restaurant business are broken. We want the<br />

staff fully invested in the restaurant, so we have adopted a<br />

co-op model with no upper management salaries.”<br />

This type of innovation is so unusual and forwardthinking<br />

that it made headlines when the owners of Emma’s<br />

Country Kitchen on St. Clair Avenue West in Toronto<br />

proclaimed they would add a non-compulsory three percent<br />

surcharge on guest checks so full-time workers could have<br />

health benefits. Some patrons complained, other patrons<br />

and colleagues in the industry commended the move. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

is a debate in the restaurant community about whether<br />

a surcharge is too contentious and whether it is the most<br />

sensible way to underwrite enhanced working conditions for<br />

restaurant employees. Some restaurants introducing health<br />

benefits for workers are sidestepping the surcharge and<br />

choosing instead to raise prices.<br />

Changing the patriarchal kitchen hierarchy and the<br />

dismantling of oppressive constructs are topics Murphy and<br />

I have discussed on several occasions. Historically there has<br />

been wage inequality and institutionalized segregation by<br />

gender and race in the restaurant business. <strong>The</strong>re remains<br />

a profound connection between sexism and homophobia in<br />

the restaurant kitchen culture. Everyone is entitled to equal<br />

protection in the workplace. “<strong>The</strong> traditional hospitality<br />

industry is unfriendly to women, especially in the back of<br />

the house. We have known this for years — the long hours,<br />

the macho aggression, the harassment present in many<br />

kitchens. <strong>The</strong> point is that it’s not just women that suffer from<br />

these issues. Men don’t thrive in this environment, either.<br />

I have worked with men that have had problems balancing<br />

work and life because of the late nights, the stress, and the<br />

physical labour,” says Murphy wistfully. “Many men have been<br />

harassed, felt bullied and intimidated in a toxic atmosphere<br />

which allows only a narrow range of personalities to succeed.<br />

In the ideal kitchen, and I like to think we model our kitchen<br />

after that ideal, everyone feels supported, listened to and<br />

respected. I would even go so far as to say, utterly rebellious to<br />

the traditional chef mentality, that restaurants should be more<br />

accommodating to the personal lives of their staff. <strong>The</strong> kitchen<br />

Top: Soft boiled egg, brioche toast soldiers, duxelles, beet mayo, radishes,<br />

beer powder & celery root.<br />

Middle: Lake Erie pickerel, wild rice, black lentils & red cabbage consomme.<br />

Bottom: Maitake mushroom, Swiss chard rondelles, walnut & pickled<br />

celery.

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Spirit-forward, seasonal craft<br />

cocktails by Lauren Fitzgerald<br />

is not a cult, and<br />

you shouldn’t<br />

have to forsake<br />

your family, your<br />

friends and your<br />

relationships to<br />

be successful.<br />

Ultimately,<br />

the kitchen is<br />

a meritocracy<br />

regardless of<br />

gender. That’s<br />

the best part.<br />

Even if you are at<br />

a disadvantage<br />

to start because<br />

you are a woman,<br />

or because you<br />

can’t afford the<br />

fanciest tools, or<br />

because you don’t<br />

speak English, or<br />

you have a mental illness, if you can cook, you<br />

get respect. If your plates look good, you get<br />

respect. If you clean up after yourself and help<br />

your team when they need you, if you work<br />

hard, it can’t go unnoticed, and you will earn<br />

your place.”<br />

If you’re looking for a modern dining and<br />

drinking experience, Grace is the ideal venue<br />

for a multi-course tasting menu with wine<br />

pairings. Relax at the bar in front of the open<br />

kitchen or in the lounge with a signature<br />

cocktail or choose from the carefully curated<br />

beer and wine list. Grace offers late-night<br />

snacks and drinks after your downtown<br />

concert or trip to the theatre.<br />

Grace Restaurant<br />

215 Dundas Street, London (at Clarence)<br />

226-667-4822<br />

gracelondon.ca<br />

dinner: wednesday–saturday from 5 pm<br />

sunday: 6–8 pm<br />

lunch: thursday–friday 11:30 am–2 pm<br />

brunch: sunday 11:30 am–2 pm<br />

BRYAN LAVERY, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large, brings years of professional experience in the<br />

restaurant and hospitality business as a chef, restaurateur<br />

and partner in the culinary experience and consulting<br />

business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on the lookout<br />

for stories <strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the<br />

magazine both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

at <strong>The</strong> Market at Western Fair<br />

on Weekends!<br />

ALIESKA ROBLES is a London photographer and<br />

producer of Forest City Cookbook. alieskarobles.com

22 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

SPONSORED BY<br />

Road Trips<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

A Southwest Ontario Journey<br />

Our Local Flavour Guide Expansion<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

CHATHAM-KENT • ELGIN • HALDIMAND • HURON • LONDON • MIDDLESEX • NORFOLK<br />

OXFORD • PERTH • SARNIA-LAMBTON • STRATFORD • WINDSOR-ESSEX<br />

Local Flavour<br />

SOUTHWEST ONTARIO<br />

CULINARY GUIDE<br />

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services • Farmers’ Markets<br />

Craft Beer & Local Wine • Agri-Tourism Attractions<br />

eatdrink<br />

<strong>The</strong> LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

localflavour.ca<br />

EXPANDED<br />

EDITION<br />

VOLUME 8<br />

Unlike most of the storiees readers are<br />

accustomed to seeing in this space, the<br />

following is not a journey that anyone can<br />

truly replcate. This is the story about how<br />

our soon-to-be-released Local Flavour guide came to<br />

be. I have sprinkled ads and photos from many of<br />

the businesses represented in the guide throughout<br />

this narrative. If it is not fully obvious, I will state<br />

explicitly that we<br />

are very excited<br />

about this project.<br />

This is an <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

story at the<br />

moment, but the<br />

guide is the story of<br />

hundreds of hardworking<br />

creative<br />

people, in scores<br />

of businesses that<br />

make Southwest<br />

Ontario a vital<br />

and exciting place<br />

to live in. We’re<br />

thankful for the opportunity this has created to work with<br />

such an illustrious group.<br />

Change is never easy, nor without risk. After publishing<br />

London’s Local Flavour perennially for the better part of a<br />

decade, the <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

Craft Farmacy, London<br />

team decided to<br />

explore an expansion<br />

of that popular<br />

culinary guide into<br />

a broader territory.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re had been plenty<br />

of positive feedback<br />

from participants<br />

in this annual<br />

undertaking, who<br />

each shared a stake in<br />

putting a high quality<br />

guide together. Tens<br />

of thousands of hard<br />

copies were eagerly<br />

Garlic’s of London, London<br />

<strong>The</strong> Boombox Bakeshop, London

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 23<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s always room for refinement. It’s this belief that set the next iteration of<br />

the RX into motion. With a striking exterior refresh, standard LSS+ 2.0,<br />

cutting-edge technologies including touchscreen display with Apple CarPlay<br />

and Android Auto, the new 2020 Lexus RX is the pinnacle of function and form.<br />

2020 Lexus RX Models<br />

Starting at $58,871.90*<br />

Taxes and licensing extra.<br />

Apple CarPlay is a trademark of Apple Inc. All rights reserved. Android Auto is a trademark of Google LLC. Use of this trademark is subject to Google Permissions.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

FINE FOOD FOR FINE PEOPLE<br />

BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY<br />

PRIVATE DINING ROOM AVAILABLE<br />

picked up by interested consumers — a mix of<br />

tourists and locals — faster than ever in <strong>2019</strong>,<br />

and thousands more are reading Local Flavour<br />

online. This joint effort was a success in every<br />

measurable way, and effectively showcased<br />

the culinary assets of the city of London.<br />

It struck us here at <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, however, that<br />

London could benefit even more by being part<br />

of a guide that would draw more attention<br />

GIFT CERTIFICATES<br />

AVAILABLE<br />

<strong>The</strong> Village Teapot, Ilderton<br />

G R A C E R E S T A U R A N T<br />

farm-to-table fine dining downtown<br />

throughout Southwest Ontario. Discussions<br />

ensued, and the responses from London<br />

establishments were extremely positive.<br />

“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”<br />

Booking<br />

NOW for the<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> Season<br />

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Chef-driven Farm-to-Table Cuisine<br />

Dietary Needs Accommodated<br />

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Gift Certificates Available<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

Defining the Territory<br />

We understood that a broader guide would<br />

serve the interests of a public with a<br />

passionate hunger and thirst for quality local<br />

food and drink. Back in 2011, we’d published<br />

an award-winning culinary guide sponsored by<br />

the Ontario Ministry of Tourism for the thennewly-created<br />

Regional Tourism Organization<br />

One (RTO1),<br />

soon named the<br />

Southwestern<br />

Ontario Tourism<br />

Corporation<br />

(SWOTC). We<br />

analyzed that<br />

region’s diverse<br />

strengths,<br />

and identified<br />

those that<br />

were offering a<br />

genuinely local<br />

experience.<br />

<strong>The</strong> geographic<br />

parameters<br />

were somewhat<br />

disappointing<br />

to us because of<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s strong<br />

<strong>The</strong> Windjammer Inn,<br />

Port Stanley

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Sixthirtynine, Woodstock<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

Available<br />

roots in Perth County (Stratford especially)<br />

and Huron County, but those counties<br />

were incorporated by the province into<br />

neighbouring RTO4.<br />

In more recent years, through publishing<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>, and in particular running our<br />

popular “Road Trip” features, we’ve come to<br />

know firsthand the current strengths of this<br />

area. Our beer and wine columnists maintain<br />

Heeman’s, Thorndale<br />

Booking Now<br />

for the<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> Season<br />

& New Year’s Eve<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519-432-4092<br />

garlicsoflondon.com<br />

NEW<br />

WINTER<br />

MENU<br />

a regional focus and we’ve been so excited to<br />

see the creative explosion of craft breweries<br />

(there was only one local craft brewery when<br />

we launched <strong>Eatdrink</strong> in 2007) and the growth<br />

in number and quality in our local wineries.<br />

Add to that new cideries and distilleries,<br />

and the almost universal embracing of local<br />

products by our better restaurants. <strong>The</strong> list of<br />

potential and worthy candidates for a regional<br />

guide is truly enormous.<br />

<strong>The</strong> parameters of “local” that have been<br />

defined for our guide stretches from Windsor<br />

through Chatham-Kent and Elgin County<br />

to Woodstock, up to Stratford and over to<br />

Goderich in Huron County. Would we find<br />

enough interested participants needed to<br />

make this work? We got our answer in very<br />

short order: a resounding YES!<br />

FLIGHTS & BITES<br />

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters<br />

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm<br />

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS<br />

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TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close<br />

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449 Wharncliffe Road South<br />

519.914.2699

Book your Office <strong>Holiday</strong> Parties Now!<br />

Lunch Hours Available for Private Events<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

Authentic Italian Cuisine<br />

Local Craft Beers<br />

Regional & Organic Wines from Italy<br />

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available<br />

Tuesday–Thursday 4pm–8pm<br />

Friday & Saturday 11:30am–10pm<br />

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm, Dinner 3pm–7pm<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester<br />

519-268-0001<br />

fatolive.ca<br />

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community<br />

<strong>The</strong><br />

Village<br />

Teapot<br />

Ask about Catering &<br />

Private Event Bookings<br />

for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s!<br />

Edison’s Café Bar, Stratford<br />

New Partners<br />

<strong>The</strong> small but mighty <strong>Eatdrink</strong> team fanned<br />

out and had many exciting meetings with old<br />

acquaintances and new. Participants signed on<br />

but our momentum really accelerated when we<br />

got a solid boost<br />

from SWOTC, who<br />

saw an opportunity<br />

to promote their<br />

region’s extensive<br />

culinary resources<br />

and multiply their<br />

own efforts by<br />

supporting our<br />

project. (If you are<br />

unfamiliar with<br />

SWOTC, especially<br />

as a tourismrelated<br />

business,<br />

I encourage you<br />

to visit swotc.ca<br />

post haste! <strong>The</strong><br />

Anna Mae’s Bakery &<br />

good folks there<br />

Restaurant, Millbank<br />

offer tremendous<br />

marketing and research support.) Through our<br />

SWOTC connection, we solidified enhanced<br />

support from the local tourism offices as well as<br />

the Ontario Tourism Information Centres, who<br />

Breakfast<br />

Brunch<br />

Lunch<br />

Cream Teas<br />

Wed–Fri 10:30–3:30<br />

Sat & Sun 10–2<br />

Gift Certificates Available<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Red Rabbit, Stratford

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

will be helping promote the guide through<br />

their physical locations and online. This made<br />

it even easier for new businesses to see the<br />

benefits of participating.<br />

<strong>The</strong> gratifying response led to our fist<br />

unforeseen problem: So many new profiles<br />

to assemble that we couldn’t meet the initial<br />

deadline we had established. As far as problems<br />

go, this is one of the better ones to have, but<br />

the pressure to deliver a guide that merited a<br />

wait is intense. Needless to say, we have been<br />

busy, as we far exceeded our most optimistic<br />

targets for a first volume of this scope.<br />

Rhéo Thompson Candies, Stratford<br />

Your Trusted <strong>Holiday</strong> Caterer<br />

Catering for Special Events,<br />

Company & Family Christmas<br />

Parties, Schools & Sports Teams<br />

We deliver. Full Service Available.<br />

Fresh Homemade Pasta &<br />

Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas<br />

and so much more!<br />

580 Adelaide St N, London<br />

519-672-7827<br />

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm<br />

SATURDAY 9:30am–5pm<br />

SUNDAY 11am–5pm<br />

Homemade<br />

Italian Food<br />

EVERYONE<br />

Will Love!<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca

28 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

We also faced a more physical challenge. Can we actually fit<br />

everyone interested into one publication? Yes we can, but we had<br />

to change the binding to a “perfect bound” style — readers will<br />

love this — to accommodate twice the page count. <strong>The</strong> handy size<br />

is retained, but this guide will have far more heft. More important,<br />

in the end, we will not only have a bigger guide, but a better guide.<br />

I soon realized that we are creating a more diversified publication,<br />

built on the strengths of our previous guides, but a more accurate<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tin Fiddler & River Run Brew Co.,<br />

Sarnia<br />

reflection of the culinary<br />

industry as a whole. That is<br />

satisfying on so many levels.<br />

Storm Stayed Brewing Co.,<br />

London<br />

Great Expectations<br />

Our amazing restaurants<br />

continue to get their due<br />

in this guide, and we’re<br />

able to highlight so many<br />

of them here. Our biggest<br />

frustration with <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

is the constraints on the<br />

number of stories we can tell<br />

in any one issue, which is not an issue here. Our greatest<br />

strength with <strong>Eatdrink</strong> is the quality of our writers. Even<br />

our BUZZ column, which could have been handled as a<br />

laundry list of events, is engagingly assembled. While<br />

a culinary guide is most definitely not a magazine, we<br />

have developed a format that marries the practical

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

functionality of a strong guide with good<br />

writing, in a way that invites exploration.<br />

Each profile is a small but powerful snapshot<br />

of a local independent business that will<br />

reward your interest with a unique and<br />

positive experience. We were selective in who<br />

was invited into this guide.<br />

I am particularly pleased with how we have<br />

grown our Craft<br />

Blue Elephant Craft Brew House,<br />

Simcoe<br />

Beer section<br />

of the guide. A<br />

dozen of our<br />

region’s best<br />

brewers are<br />

represented,<br />

from small<br />

family-run<br />

operations such<br />

as Shakespeare<br />

Brewing Co. in<br />

the small hamlet<br />

of Shakespeare,<br />

or Storm Stayed<br />

Brewing Co.<br />

in London, to<br />

the stunningly<br />

beautiful<br />

where art is<br />

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />

<strong>The</strong> ORIGINAL<br />

LONDON CAKERY &<br />

GOURMET CUPCAKE<br />

BAKERY<br />

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />

ABOUT OUR<br />

“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />

SWEETNESS!”<br />

CAMPAIGN<br />

www.heycupcake.ca<br />

1305 Riverbend Road, Suite 110<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

Benmiller Inn & Spa<br />

gather with great friends and divine dining<br />

www.benmiller.ca | 519-524-2191 | 1-800-265-1711<br />

81175 Benmiller Line, Goderich, N7A 3Y1

30 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co. operation in Blyth and Toboggan Brewing Co.,<br />

smack-dab in Downtown London.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lake Erie North Shore wine region is also well showcased<br />

with four of their best, and Alton Farms Estate Winery continues to<br />

represent the emerging Huron Shores wine region. Also especially<br />

satisfying to me is the inclusion of two craft distilleries: Wolfhead<br />

Distillery in Amherstburg and Junction 56 Distillery in Stratford.<br />

Add in the Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House in <strong>The</strong>dford, and<br />

Munro Honey & Meadery in Alvinston, and the spectrum of<br />

artisanal beverage producers is here in force.<br />

I am also glad that we are including some of our best Agri-<br />

Tourism Attractions, helping to complete the actual farm-to-table<br />

ethos that we<br />

talk about so<br />

much. From<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery,<br />

berry producers<br />

Plympton-Wyoming<br />

(and more!) such<br />

as Heeman’s in<br />

London to the<br />

pickle-makers at<br />

Sunshine Farms in Thamesville, this guide<br />

will truly offer an authentic taste of what<br />

Southwest Ontario has to offer.<br />

Local Flavour: Southwest Ontario Culinary<br />

Guide will be published in late <strong>November</strong>.<br />

Toboggan Brewing Co., London<br />

Copies will be widely available, and a list<br />

of pickup locations will be posted on the<br />

Book your<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> Party &<br />

New Year’s Eve<br />

with us!<br />

Gift Certificates Available!<br />

At Revival House, a devotion to preserving the best of Stratford’s culinary<br />

and historic past blends with a forward-looking energy to make this<br />

the city’s ultimate venue for cuisine, entertainment, and memory-making.

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

localflavour.ca website. <strong>The</strong> entire publication<br />

will also be available to read online, on any<br />

device, in a handy flipbook version that will<br />

include online links to each establishment.<br />

Every profile will also be available as a<br />

separate “story” that can be easily shared on<br />

Facebook or with a Twitter or Instagram link.<br />

We proudly look forward to seeing people<br />

using this guide.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL is Publisher and the founder of<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>. He can be reached at chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Shakespeare Brewing Co., Shakespeare<br />

Something<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

Available<br />

for<br />

Everyone!<br />

Book your <strong>Holiday</strong> Party or Catering with us!<br />

Fresh Local Ingredients<br />

Gluten Free & Vegetarian Options<br />

Great Selection of Craft Beer & Cider<br />

Tuesday–Saturday<br />

Lunch 11:30–2:00 & Dinner 4:45–8:45<br />

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519-914-8811<br />

Follow Us!<br />

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With custom menus from both kitchen<br />

and bar, we will work together to create<br />

the perfect atmosphere for anything<br />

from a casual cocktail party to a<br />

formal seated dinner.<br />

30 Ontario Street, Stratford, ON<br />

www.themillstone.ca<br />

themillstoneON<br />

(519)273.5886

32 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 33

34 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Beer<br />

Small Town Treasures<br />

12 Small Craft Breweries Worth a Road Trip<br />

BY GEORGE MACKE<br />

Tiny breweries in small towns are<br />

beginning to dot the landscape of<br />

Southwestern Ontario, waiting to<br />

be discovered by craft beer explorers<br />

<strong>The</strong>se are nano and microbreweries, labelled<br />

as such by the small batches or annual output<br />

they produce. Many sell their beer only from<br />

an on-site bottle shop, in labouriously filled<br />

500 mL bottles or 1.8 mL growlers. Some<br />

hire a portable canning line to package beer<br />

Caps Off Brewing Company<br />

168 Curtis Street, St. Thomas. Opened in<br />

<strong>2019</strong>, Caps Off was a hobby that’s become a<br />

business for couple Rick and Fran Dunseith.<br />

<strong>The</strong> low-key brewery on a downtown side<br />

street gives<br />

a tip of the<br />

hat with the<br />

beer names<br />

— Under the<br />

Brim Cream<br />

Ale, Drop of<br />

a Hat IPA, Straw Hat Saison, and Stove Pipe<br />

Stout. A sampler tray is called a Hat Trick, and<br />

it’s an excellent place to start. Caps Off was<br />

at the Truly Local Craft Beer Festival hosted<br />

by London Brewing in September, upping its<br />

local ingredient credibility.<br />

in tallboy cans. Some are farm-based, with a<br />

hops yard literally out back.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y’re never mentioned in the same<br />

breath as Steam Whistle, Mill Street, or<br />

Muskoka and unless you live in or near the<br />

rural towns they call home, chances are you<br />

don’t know they exist.<br />

This is by no means an exhaustive list, but<br />

here are 12 spots to explore, worth a road trip<br />

of brewski discovery.<br />

Natterjack Brewing Company<br />

25929 Talbot Line, West Lorne. A family<br />

brewery inspired by son Matt Soos, Natterjack<br />

was opened in 2016 by a group of six family<br />

members with rural roots in west Elgin<br />

County. <strong>The</strong> beer<br />

to take home is<br />

Natterjack Toad, a<br />

Belgian-style blonde.<br />

<strong>The</strong> brewery has also<br />

brewed interesting<br />

seasonal or one-off<br />

beers such as Easy<br />

Breezy Blueberry<br />

Squeezy, which was featured at Truly Local.<br />

This dark ale incorporated fresh blueberries<br />

grown on two West Elgin farms.<br />

<strong>The</strong> New Heart of Downtown Sarnia<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

New<br />

Party Room<br />

for the<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong>s!<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tin Fiddler Brew Pub<br />

& River Run Brew Co.<br />

146/148 Christina St. N, Sarnia<br />

226-784-2337<br />

<strong>The</strong>TinFiddler

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Rusty Wrench Brewing Company<br />

9 Front Street West, Strathroy. A brewery<br />

and pub, Rusty Wrench opened in 2017. Its core<br />

beers<br />

include<br />

Crappy<br />

Tire, a<br />

hefty 7.5% alcohol oatmeal stout with notes<br />

of dark chocolate and coffee. <strong>The</strong>re’s also Left<br />

Handed Spanner, a West Coast-style fruity IPA.<br />

Stonepicker Brewing<br />

7143 Forest Road, Plympton-Wyoming. A<br />

farm-based brewery near Forest, Stonepicker<br />

is the creation of two farm couples with<br />

passions for agriculture and<br />

beer. Opened in 2017,<br />

Stonepicker’s slogan<br />

“Our beer rocks” fits<br />

nicely. Its beers carry<br />

farmer themes, and<br />

the places to start are<br />

the Crop Tour lager and<br />

the Farmer’s Tan blonde<br />

ale, Oops It Fell Out is also a lager<br />

and uses barley malted on site. Among the<br />

seasonals is Pail Ale, an earthy pale ale brewed<br />

with British hops.<br />

Widder Station Brewing<br />

8395 Decker Road, <strong>The</strong>dford. A brewery, a<br />

pub, and a golf course.<br />

Pick your passion.<br />

Widder Station’s<br />

flagship beer is a lager<br />

crafted for the 19th<br />

hole. Train Wreck is<br />

a light 4.8 per cent<br />

alcohol lager served on<br />

tap. <strong>The</strong> rest of the board is filled with a wellcurated<br />

selection of craft beers from the likes<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 35<br />

of Sons of Kent in Chatham, Railway City in<br />

St. Thomas, and Stonepicker.<br />

River Road Brewing and Hops<br />

35449 Bayfield River Road, Bayfield.<br />

A family farm-based brewery, River Road<br />

captures the<br />

hearts of<br />

malty beer<br />

lovers with<br />

Up Your<br />

Kilt, a heavy<br />

Scottish style<br />

ale. It’s 6.8 per cent alcohol, making it as strong<br />

as a caber tosser. Intriguing seasonals include<br />

Survey Elixir, an IPA infused with spruce tips.<br />

Stone House Brewery<br />

76048 Parr Line, Varna. Hockey player Ryan<br />

O’Reilly made little Varna famous when he won<br />

the Stanley Cup with the St. Louis Blues last<br />

spring. But before that there was Stone House,<br />

the original craft brewery in Huron County.<br />

Stone House’s newest beer is a Bavarian lager.<br />

But it started with and<br />

still highlights a Czechstyle<br />

pilsner brewed<br />

with Saaz hops. <strong>The</strong>re’s<br />

a compact space to enjoy<br />

Stone House beers on<br />

site, but it’s best to take<br />

some bottles home from<br />

the shop. Stone House<br />

beers are also served at several top eateries in<br />

the region, including Hessenland on Highway<br />

21 near St. Joseph, Bentley’s in Stratford and<br />

Smackwater Jack’s in Grand Bend.<br />

Half Hours on Earth<br />

151 Main Street, Seaforth. Highly regarded<br />

in the craft beer world, Half Hours on Earth

36 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

brews a barrage of farmhouse sour-style beer<br />

recipes in small batches. Among them are some<br />

oak barrel-aged and flavour-infused beers such<br />

as Bees! (a sour with honey) and Attenborough<br />

(a mild entry-level farmhouse). Centigrade, also<br />

oak-aged,<br />

incorporates<br />

black<br />

currants and<br />

dandelion<br />

root. Things<br />

change so often, fans need to frequently check<br />

the Half Hours website to verify availability. Or,<br />

better still, just go with what they’ve got when<br />

you get there.<br />

Shakespeare Brewing Company<br />

2178 Line 34, Shakespeare. Located a short<br />

drive from Stratford, Shakespeare Brewing is<br />

owned by a husband-and-wife team. Reckless<br />

Rooster,<br />

a pale ale<br />

featuring<br />

Ontariogrown<br />

Shop online ingredients,<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

is the star attraction and there’s no kidding<br />

with Grumpy Goat, the brewer’s bitter take on<br />

an India Pale Ale. It’s a milk stout that catches<br />

the eye as the weather turns cold. Classy Cow<br />

is full-bodied, smooth and finishes sweet.<br />

Bitte Schön Brauhaus<br />

68 Huron Street, New Hamburg. <strong>The</strong><br />

name means “You’re Welcome” in German.<br />

Located in a renovated historic building,<br />

Bitte Schön brews gluten-free beers. Huron<br />

Street Hefeweisen is sold in cans at the LCBO.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are free<br />

tours Saturday<br />

afternoons<br />

and you can<br />

bring in food<br />

from nearby<br />

restaurants<br />

to eat while<br />

enjoying a beer inside the brewery. Owned<br />

by the same folks who run Descendants Beer<br />

& Beverage Co. in Kitchener, Bitte Schön has<br />

a special item for sale on the menu — the<br />

brewery itself.<br />

’til the COWBELLs come home!<br />

Receive 10% off ALL BEER PURCHASES online at store.cowbellbrewing.com<br />

with the promo code “EatDrink10”<br />

— Discount code is valid until <strong>December</strong> 31, <strong>2019</strong> —<br />

40035 BLYTH RD., BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Ramblin’ Road Brewery Farm<br />

2970 Swimming Pool Road, La Salette.<br />

Peanuts with your beer? Ramblin’ Road traces<br />

its entrepreneurial food, family farming,<br />

and beverage lineage<br />

to Picard Peanuts.<br />

An early player in<br />

farm-based brewing,<br />

Ramblin’ Road has<br />

the perfect gift for<br />

the craft beer fan on<br />

your Christmas list<br />

— a “Quick Six” pack<br />

“grown” on the farm<br />

and featuring Pure<br />

Bred Red and Ramblin’<br />

Road’s lager family, and its IPA. Piquing<br />

interest is Dakota Pearl Ale made with the<br />

same potatoes used to make Ramblin’ Road’s<br />

kettle chips. <strong>The</strong> pairing seems obvious.<br />

Dundas & Sons Brewing Company<br />

400 Adelaide Street North, London. Rob<br />

Dundas, the big bearded owner of Old East<br />

Village’s tiniest brewery will make you feel<br />

at home. Dundas &<br />

Sons, which famously<br />

uses hops grown on<br />

the owner’s porch,<br />

brews beer styles<br />

you’d expect, such<br />

as an American pale<br />

ale, and some you<br />

might not, such as<br />

a honey elderberry<br />

saison. <strong>The</strong> board changes frequently and<br />

the selection is supplemented by kegs from<br />

other brewers..<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer fan living in London.

38 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

VQA Wines<br />

Embracing the Destinations<br />

by GARY KILLOPS<br />

Winemaking in Ontario has been<br />

going on for well over 200 years<br />

but the wines did not always<br />

have a good reputation.<br />

Ontario wines were made from native vitis<br />

labrusca grapes like catawba and concord<br />

which became the backbone of Ontario wine<br />

in those early days. Concord grapes are now<br />

better known for being used in<br />

jellies, jams and grape juice.<br />

About 35 years ago a few<br />

Niagara vineyard owners planted<br />

European vitis vinifera vines and<br />

began changing the reputation<br />

of Ontario wine. Vinifera such<br />

as chardonnay, riesling, cabernet<br />

franc, merlot and pinot noir<br />

began to replace the “grapey”<br />

tasting wines made from<br />

labrusca grapes.<br />

As the quality of Ontario<br />

wines began to improve a group of Ontario<br />

wineries created the Vintners Quality Alliance<br />

(vqa) to set out geographic appellations and<br />

introduce strict production standards. This<br />

system is similar to the regulatory systems<br />

in France (aoc/aop), Spain (do), and Italy<br />

(doc/dop).<br />

<strong>The</strong> vqa logo on a bottle of Ontario indicates<br />

several things, but most importantly that<br />

100% of the grapes used to make the wine were<br />

grown in Ontario. This past October a new and<br />

updated Ontario vqa logo was<br />

introduced.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Wine Marketing<br />

Association of Ontario<br />

(wmao), in partnership with<br />

Ontario’s Wine Appellation<br />

Authority (vqao), revealed the<br />

modernized and striking “New<br />

and Next” Ontario vqa logo,<br />

the emblem used by Ontario<br />

vqa wineries as a mark of<br />

origin, quality and authenticity.<br />

<strong>The</strong> vqa logo guarantees that<br />

only Ontario-grown grapes go into every<br />

bottle of Ontario vqa wine.<br />

“We are thrilled about the new vqa

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

logo as it embraces Ontario’s wine growing<br />

region, climate and status as an exciting New<br />

World wine destination. It evokes a feeling<br />

of boldness and creativity, showcasing how<br />

Ontario winemakers have forged their own<br />

style. VQA Wines of Ontario are truly on the<br />

cutting edge of cool,” said Sylvia Augaitis,<br />

Executive Director of the Wine Marketing<br />

Association of Ontario. “Ontario’s time to<br />

shine is now and this new contemporary<br />

vqa logo communicates confidence, building<br />

on how Ontario vqa wines continue to<br />

win international respect and acclaim. <strong>The</strong><br />

modernized vqa logo helps convey that story<br />

to consumers.” <strong>The</strong> new logo should soon start<br />

to appear on bottles of Ontario wine.<br />

<strong>The</strong> wine and grape sector contributes $515<br />

million to Ontario’s gdp and supports more<br />

than 9,000 direct jobs. Grape production<br />

from almost 500 Ontario growers is used to<br />

make vqa wines, which had $374 million in<br />

sales in 2018–19.<br />

For this issue I have selected wines from<br />

each of the three wine appellations of Ontario:<br />

Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore, and<br />

Prince Edward County.<br />

Winemaking at Its Finest<br />

Merlot. Sauvignon Blanc. Carmenere.<br />

Gewurztraminer. Malbec. Moscato.<br />

Tempranillo. White Zinfandel. Grenache.<br />

Semillon. Nebbiolo. Viognier.<br />

Shiraz. Chardonnay. Pinot Noir.<br />

Just to name a few ...<br />

We have your flavour.<br />

Come make it.<br />

Alton Farms<br />

EST A TE WINERY<br />

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POUR<br />

THE<br />

WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS,<br />

TOURS, OUTDOOR PATIO,<br />

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SARNIA<br />

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HURON<br />

7<br />

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Grand<br />

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21<br />

402<br />

London<br />

77 km<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />

SOMETHING<br />

BIG IS HERE!<br />

<strong>The</strong> new CREW Winery & Gallery is officially open! <strong>The</strong> tasting bar is<br />

open 7 days a week, and a new galley menu launches mid-<strong>November</strong>.<br />

Taste local wines, see original art, and take in our vineyard views.<br />

Premium quality handcrafted wine<br />

at an affordable price<br />

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998<br />

somersetfinewines.com<br />

OPEN TUES–FRI 10am–7pm & SAT 9am–4pm<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON<br />

519-738-9800<br />

@crewinery

40 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Niagara Peninsula<br />

Flat Rock Pink Twisted Rosé 2018<br />

vintages #39974, $17.95<br />

A blend of pinot noir, riesling and<br />

gewürztraminer. Slightly off dry.<br />

Juicy raspberry, red cherry and<br />

strawberry fruits, white flowers,<br />

spice and supported by intense<br />

acidity to make this a deliciously<br />

sippable rosé. Pair with a walnut<br />

raspberry or tossed salad and<br />

raspberry vinaigrette.<br />

Reif Estate Meritage 2015<br />

vintages #149005, $39.95<br />

Using “Meritage” on<br />

a bottle of Ontario<br />

wine is a protected<br />

VQA reserved term. Only VQA<br />

approved wines can use this term.<br />

Other protected terms include<br />

Icewine, Late Harvest Wine, and<br />

Estate Bottled.<br />

A blend of 60% cabernet<br />

sauvignon, 30% merlot and<br />

10% cab franc, aged in French,<br />

Hungarian and American oak<br />

for 24 months. This is a big, full<br />

bodied red wine. Ripe red fruit,<br />

blackberry, and cedar. This is a<br />

wine that is best served several<br />

hours after decanting. Pair with<br />

roast lamb and grilled vegetables.<br />

Prince Edward County<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Exultet Royal Road Recipe Pinot<br />

Noir 2017<br />

vintages #10755, $44.95<br />

Located in Ontario’s northernmost<br />

wine region, which has a shorter<br />

growing season, limiting the type<br />

of grapes that can be harvested.<br />

Pinot noir and chardonnay<br />

do well here and are excellent<br />

reflections of cool climate wines.<br />

“Royal Road Recipe” is named<br />

after the road Exultet winery<br />

is located on. This is an earthy<br />

pinot noir. Dried leaves, forest<br />

floor and turned soil and fresh<br />

herbs. Red cherry<br />

fruit. Medium body,<br />

lively acidity, a style that craves<br />

food! Pair with salmon, roasted<br />

chicken or beef bourguignon.<br />

Hillier Creek Gamay Noir 2017<br />

vintages #372839, $16.95<br />

Gamay has long been flying<br />

under the radar here in<br />

Ontario, and is another grape<br />

that excels in cooler climates.<br />

Hillier Creek’s gamay is fresh,<br />

lively finish with mouthwatering<br />

cherry and strawberry<br />

notes. Light bodied and off dry<br />

with 33 g/L. Pair with meat and<br />

cheese charcuterie plates.<br />

Lake Erie North Shore<br />

Cooper’s Hawk Reserve<br />

Cabernet/Merlot 2015<br />

lcbo #328013, $18.95<br />

A blend of cabernet sauvignon and<br />

merlot grapes from vineyards<br />

located in Canada’s most<br />

southern wine growing region.<br />

<strong>The</strong> warm 2015 summer<br />

provided the roadmap to full<br />

grape ripeness. Plum and red<br />

fruits, fine structure, tannins<br />

and acidity. Pair with tagliatelle<br />

pasta with Bolognese sauce.<br />

Cooper’s Hawk Cabernet Franc<br />

2017<br />

lcbo #585950, $19.95<br />

Without question cab franc is<br />

a grape that produces some of<br />

Ontario’s finest red wines. This<br />

one delivers. Ruby colour, red<br />

and black fruits, light spice notes,<br />

with a silky lingering finish. Pair<br />

with roasted pork, burgers or<br />

meatballs in tomato sauce.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified<br />

Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and<br />

write about wine. He shares his tasting<br />

notes on EssexWineReview.com

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 41<br />

<strong>The</strong> BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

London<br />

We are excited at <strong>Eatdrink</strong> to present an expanded<br />

Volume 8 of the Local Flavour Culinary Guide<br />

(available in late <strong>November</strong>). <strong>The</strong> guide is now a<br />

regional publication covering Southwest Ontario<br />

from Windsor to Woodstock, up to Stratford and<br />

over to Goderich. You can find it at many of the<br />

locations that carry <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, as well as at Tourism<br />

Information Centres throughout Ontario. As usual,<br />

this complimentary guide is also available online.<br />

As with all of our publications, it can be easily<br />

read on your cellphone, tablet or desktop. We are<br />

confident readers will be more pleased than ever<br />

with this more extensive guide. localflavour.ca<br />

Great things continue to unfold in London’s Old<br />

East Village. A sense of inclusive community<br />

is pervasive and has made the OEV a prime<br />

destination for entrepreneurial innovation. Just<br />

off the beaten path and in and around the walkable<br />

Dundas Street corridor, the area is a hotspot for<br />

culinary incubation and indie startups, is a magnet<br />

for arts and culture, and has a thriving music<br />

scene. Visitors are always looking for authentic<br />

experiences when they travel, to connect with<br />

their surroundings and live like the locals. Here<br />

are just a few of the dynamic culinary businesses<br />

in OEV: <strong>The</strong> Root Cellar Organic Café, 10 Eighteen<br />

Café, Backroads Coffeehouse & Cakery, Willie’s<br />

Café + Catering (at the Food Incubator), Momo’s<br />

at the Market (and at the Food Incubator), Unique<br />

Food Attitudes, Vietnam Restaurant, Spring<br />

(YouYiCum) Chinese Restaurant, Wisdom Teashop<br />

and Japanese Creperie, and Tony’s Pizza (a familyrun<br />

Italian restaurant since 1961). <strong>The</strong>re are other<br />

fine food retailers such as <strong>The</strong> Hungary Butcher,<br />

So Inviting Chinese Bakery (homemade Chinese<br />

dumplings) and Artisan Bakery. <strong>The</strong>re are craft<br />

brewers Anderson Ales, London Brewing Co-op,<br />

Powerhouse Brewery, Dundas & Son’s and the new<br />

distillery Union Ten.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Market at Western Fair District is a vibrant hub<br />

in the heart of Old East Village bringing together<br />

community, food artisans and startups. Two floors<br />

and over 100 vendors make up <strong>The</strong> Market. <strong>The</strong><br />

Market operates on Saturday and Sundays and<br />

features fine retailers such as <strong>The</strong> Village Meat<br />

Shoppe, Loco Fields, <strong>The</strong> Butcher’s Wife, On the<br />

Move Organics, Monforte Cheese, Petojo Food<br />

& Catering (Indonesian cuisine), Harvest Pantry<br />

(ferments, preserves, salts and tools) and Downie<br />

Street Bakehouse. Food truck operators Bifana<br />

Boys and Goodah Gastrotruck have popular booths<br />

at <strong>The</strong> Market. themarketwfd.com<br />

Executive Chef Katherine Jones and Chef Ryan<br />

Wishak and their team at Growing Chefs!<br />

continue to work hard to challenge the perceived<br />

limitations of children and youth in the kitchen.<br />

Upcoming fall classes include Chef Maryam Yaro<br />

featuring the Food of Nigeria on <strong>November</strong> 27.<br />

growingchefsontario.ca<br />

Now Booking<br />

Christmas<br />

Parties!<br />

Monday–Thursday: 11:30am–9pm<br />

Friday: 11:30am–10pm<br />

Saturday: 4pm–10pm<br />

Sunday: 4pm–8pm<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

Reservations: 519-601-7799<br />

1140 Southdale Road West, London<br />

www.bocconcinilondon.ca<br />

Free Parking

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />

THE VILLAGE<br />

MEAT SHOP<br />

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />

Now Accepting<br />

Special Orders<br />

for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s!<br />

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR<br />

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

<strong>The</strong> Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />

226-376-4120 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Christmas Tea at Eldon House, Saturday, <strong>December</strong><br />

7, 12:00, 1:30, and 3:00 p.m. seatings. Get in the<br />

holiday spirit with live entertainment, tea and an<br />

abundant menu of savouries and sweets before<br />

touring Eldon House, which will be decorated for<br />

Victorian Christmas. To register, visit eldonhouse.<br />

ca/events or call 519-661-5169.<br />

Have you been to Annies Chocolates? This familyowned<br />

and operated business uses custom blends<br />

of Dutch chocolate. Annies also makes sugar-free<br />

chocolates, fudge, nuts, and offers London Ice<br />

Cream and gift baskets. 1700 Hyde Park Road<br />

(relocated from the Arva location) and 22425<br />

Jefferies Road in Kilworth annieschocolates.com<br />

One of our favourite food trailers is the organic<br />

Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano in the parking lot<br />

of Lyn-Dys Health Food at 1016 Oxford St. E. Ivan<br />

Santana-Barnes has been serving some of London’s<br />

best Latin-inspired food for the last four years and<br />

is relocating to the new Ivanopoblano Restaurant at<br />

390 Wharncliffe Road this fall. ivanopoblano.com/<br />

Each cookie, cupcake and custom cake is an original<br />

work of art at Hey, Cupcake! <strong>The</strong> family-run<br />

bakery, owned by Krista and Heath Trollope, caters<br />

to a clientele with a whimsical and clever sense of<br />

LOVE,<br />

LOVE IT!<br />

SO MANY<br />

SHOPS.<br />

THEMARKETWFD.COM<br />

HALINA A.<br />

GOOGLE REVIEW

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

taste and style and an appreciation of quality. Using<br />

only the freshest and finest ingredients, every order<br />

is baked from scratch and created with “a whole<br />

lotta lovin.” <strong>The</strong>y’re relocating to a solar-powered<br />

shop in the new sustainable West 5 business and<br />

residential development. Ask about their ongoing<br />

campaign “Random Acts of Sweetness!” 1305<br />

Riverbend Road, Suite 110, at Oxford Street West.<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253), heycupcake.ca<br />

For over 25 years, Garlic’s of London has been<br />

a popular dining destination. Open seven days a<br />

week, they welcome you to join them for an intimate<br />

gathering, leisurely Sunday Brunch, business<br />

meeting or special celebration. Garlic’s exemplifies<br />

the transcendent synergy between authentic, chefdriven<br />

culinary craftsmanship and meticulously<br />

procured ingredients imbued with contemporary<br />

twists on time-honoured traditions. Head Chef<br />

Alex Martin has a thoughtful, respectful edge.<br />

Food is made from scratch with inspiration from<br />

local products, and elevated by freshly-harvested<br />

seasonal ingredients. 481 Richmond Street, 519-<br />

432-4092, garlicsoflondon.com<br />

Congratulations to Publican Mark Serré of <strong>The</strong><br />

Morrissey House, who is celebrating a decade<br />

in business. 361 Dundas St, 519-204-9220,<br />

themorrisseyhouse.wordpress.com<br />

Congratulations to Nutritionist Julie Kortekaas and<br />

Chef Shayna Patterson of Rebel Remedy, who are<br />

celebrating the third anniversary of the business.<br />

Please support them during the construction of<br />

Dundas Place. 242 Dundas Street, 519-709-2782,<br />

rebelremedy.com<br />

Willie’s Café continues to grow and thrive in the<br />

London Food Incubator at 630 Dundas Street.<br />

Ian Kennard has expanded the seating with more<br />

tables, comfy chairs and a new cozy dining area.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is inexpensive municipal parking off Queens<br />

Ave., and customers are welcome to use the<br />

entrance accessible from the parking lot. Willie’s<br />

also provides catering services with a focus on<br />

office/corporate lunches. 630 Dundas Street, 519-<br />

433-9027, williescafeandcatering.com<br />

Located at King and Talbot Streets, Origins Co.,<br />

with a Grab & Go smoothie bar, is close to Covent<br />

Garden Market and Budweiser Gardens. <strong>The</strong>y offer<br />

smoothies and smoothie bowls to ensure that<br />

healthy ingredients fit into your busy lifestyle.<br />

Ingredients are ethically harvested, non-GMO, and<br />

organic where possible. <strong>The</strong>y offer teas, espresso<br />

and Bulletproof coffee. Open Monday–Saturday<br />

8am–3pm, closed Sunday. 105 King Street, 519-601-<br />

5855, originsco.com<br />

From our farm to your table ...<br />

Award winning hand crafted<br />

alpine style cheese<br />

Monday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

5021 Perth Line 8<br />

St. Marys ON<br />

Fresh Cheese Curds<br />

Cheese Tastings<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />

www.stonetowncheese.com<br />

Join us for Londonlicious!<br />

hand crafted sandwiches<br />

weekend brunch<br />

homestyle lunch & dinner<br />

craft beer, wine & cocktails<br />

731 Wellington Street<br />

between Oxford & Piccadilly<br />

519-860-9424<br />

wichiswich.ca

Traditional, Real Food.<br />

Real Good!<br />

Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls,<br />

Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or<br />

many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes.<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

519-652-9696<br />

aranka.ca<br />

aranka.csarda arankacsarda<br />

7447 Longwoods Road, London<br />

Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of<br />

Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

<strong>The</strong> landmark Budapest Restaurant has been<br />

operating since 1956, and its current owners Eduard<br />

Nagy and Anita Tasonyi are 20-year veterans<br />

of the establishment. Protégés of the legendary<br />

restaurateur Marika Hayek, they continue to delight<br />

clients by offering authentic Hungarian specialties in<br />

this classic old-world setting. Confident, expansive<br />

cooking keeps traditional Hungarian flavours<br />

front and centre. Think classic offerings flavoured<br />

predominantly by woodsy, smoky Hungarian paprika<br />

— dishes that are precisely prepared and expertly<br />

flavoured. Located downtown in the hotel district, the<br />

restaurant is a short walk from the Delta Armouries,<br />

DoubleTree by Hilton and RBC Place London.<br />

Banquet room available. 348 Dundas Street, 519-439-<br />

3431, budapestrestaurant.net<br />

Richmond Row’s Bombay Bistro is a restaurant and<br />

a cultural hub offering “a culinary tour de force of<br />

India’s cuisine,” as well as pick-up tiffin service and<br />

meal plans. <strong>The</strong>y take authentic flavours from their<br />

home country and push them beyond expectations<br />

in their own unique and intimate way. 346 Richmond<br />

St., 519-601-8850, bombaybistro.ca<br />

Locomotive Espresso, a locally-owned espresso<br />

bar, is growing the five-year-old business, with the<br />

addition of a location this coming Februrary at 350<br />

Ridout Street South (at Chester St.) in the Old South<br />

neighbourhood. Locomotive Espresso South will<br />

be brewing espresso-based beverages using Mod Bar/<br />

La Marzocco equipment, an under-counter system<br />

with above counter taps. <strong>The</strong> modular formation<br />

will create an open bar look, and the design offers<br />

excellent interaction and engagement with customers.<br />

“Old South is a creative and passionate<br />

community where we can expand our brand and<br />

employment opportunities while offering a sense<br />

of a community place with exceptional products,”<br />

said owner Jill Wright. Staying super local and<br />

a business incubator has been a priority for<br />

Locomotive Espresso. <strong>The</strong>y were one of the first<br />

retailers to offer such local brands as Booch, Nuts<br />

for Cheese, Bliss Bars, <strong>The</strong> New New Age, and Helm<br />

Baked. <strong>The</strong>y support other established businesses<br />

like Willie’s Café, North Moore Catering, <strong>The</strong><br />

Artisan Bakery, <strong>The</strong> Tea Haus and Momo’s At <strong>The</strong><br />

Market. locomotiveespresso.com<br />

Alchemy Bake Shoppe creates fun and interesting<br />

pastries influenced by nostalgic treats and current<br />

baking trends. With a production facility in London,<br />

Alchemy offers breakfast pastries, cookies and<br />

squares, cakes and a variety of savoury baking<br />

including quiche and pies. Find them Saturdays<br />

at the Covent Garden Farmers’ Market and on<br />

Sundays at Stratford’s Slow Food Market (10

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Downie St. indoor location). Follow them —<br />

instagram.com/alchemybakeshoppe — or on<br />

Facebook for events or to place an order directly.<br />

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s<br />

stylish Craft Farmacy will celebrate a second<br />

anniversary in <strong>December</strong> and continue to “dispense<br />

deliciousness.” <strong>The</strong> owners are committed to<br />

sourcing and celebrating local Ontario food. <strong>The</strong><br />

Feast ON-certified restaurant’s ever-changing<br />

menus focus on craft beer, craft cocktails, a large<br />

selection of fresh oysters, and inspired rustic farmto-table<br />

food. Be sure to check out the Sunday<br />

Brunch prix fixe menu. 449 Wharncliffe Rd, just<br />

north of Baseline, 519-914-2699, craftfarmacy.ca<br />

Reverie, the acclaimed and unique 12-seat tasting<br />

menu restaurant, continues to receive accolades. Chef<br />

features a modernist Canadian-focused five-course<br />

menu every night from Thursday to Sunday. Owners<br />

Jerrah Revilles and Chef Brian Sua-an recently<br />

celebrated Reverie’s second anniversary. <strong>The</strong>y offer<br />

an intimate, immersive, innovative experience with a<br />

combination of exciting platings and vibrant flavours.<br />

Wine pairings are optional but highly recommended.<br />

Reservations required. 208 Piccadilly Street just west<br />

of Richmond, 519-914-6595, reverierestaurant.ca<br />

<strong>The</strong> Western Fair Association (WFA) has<br />

announced its future business strategy, which<br />

will bring hundreds of jobs, economic prosperity,<br />

innovation and growth to London and region. <strong>The</strong><br />

new initiative, designated <strong>The</strong> Grove at Western<br />

Fair District (<strong>The</strong> Grove), will help to develop<br />

the next generation of Canadian agri-business<br />

entrepreneurs in London, Ontario. By repurposing<br />

buildings on the WFA site, <strong>The</strong> Grove will help<br />

new and existing agri-businesses to incubate,<br />

accelerate, educate and connect. <strong>The</strong> Grove will<br />

continue the legacy of the WFA’s deep agricultural<br />

roots while keeping innovative for future growth.<br />

www.<strong>The</strong>GroveWFD.com<br />

<strong>The</strong> Middlesex London Food Policy Council<br />

(MLFPC) will make its new home at <strong>The</strong> Grove. <strong>The</strong><br />

MLFPC is the organization tasked with identifying<br />

challenges and proposing innovative solutions<br />

to develop a healthy, sustainable, resilient and<br />

equitable local food system. mlfpc.ca<br />

<strong>The</strong> first major tenant of <strong>The</strong> Grove is LiveFit,<br />

a provider of prepared meals that are delivered<br />

directly to consumers. livefitfood.ca<br />

It’s sustainable, and it’s traceable right back to the<br />

farmers that grew it. London Brewing is proud to<br />

be the first Craft Malt Certified brewery in Canada.<br />

“This is really important to us but it’s as important<br />

to local farmers that we can raise the profile of<br />

what they are doing,” explains Aaron Lawrence,<br />

Make HAPPINESS<br />

a part of your day.<br />

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Featuring<br />

Creative Menus<br />

from Chefs<br />

Erryn Shephard<br />

&<br />

Ben Sandwith<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

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& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!<br />

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Absorb the history, culture & countryside as we explore major cities<br />

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Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville<br />

TICO#50013851<br />

Open 7 Days a Week<br />

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

head brewer and a founding worker-owner of the<br />

worker-owned and operated brewery. “<strong>The</strong> beer<br />

we are brewing really is an agricultural product<br />

and it’s the necessary trend of craft beer to use<br />

local ingredients if it is to be a truly local beer.<br />

londonbrewing.ca<br />

<strong>The</strong> Bun offers authentic Sichuan-style Chinese<br />

street food, rejecting improvised Canadian-Chinese<br />

food dishes. <strong>The</strong> menu is straightforward , you<br />

order at the counter, and waiters deliver food to<br />

the long communal tables. Start by trying the<br />

pulled pork sandwich or Sichuan-style wontons<br />

with special chili house sauce. <strong>The</strong>re is a delicious<br />

sour and spicy Sichuan shredded potato dish and<br />

blistered tiger skin peppers (the name comes from<br />

the color of the peppers after they’ve been seared in<br />

a hot wok, which resembles a tiger’s coat). <strong>The</strong>re is<br />

a variety of good noodle dishes. 196 Dundas Street,<br />

519-567-5741.<br />

Rain & Sunny Chinese Noodles, a Hunan-inspired<br />

noodle house has opened at 186 King St., northeast<br />

of Five Fortune House, in the premises of the<br />

former King’s Diner.<br />

Some of the most consistent dim sum is to be found<br />

at London Chinese Restaurant, located in the strip<br />

mall at Oxford and Wonderland. It is served all<br />

day. Wing’s Kitchen at Highbury near Cheapside<br />

also serves some of the best dim sum in the city.<br />

We recommend you go there from Thursday to<br />

Sunday for the finest experience. Golden Dragon in<br />

Byron is known for the best crisp, dark-golden skin<br />

Peking duck. Ordering the barbeque duck or Peking<br />

duck in advance is always recommended. <strong>The</strong><br />

upscale Congee House is a favourite, reliably good<br />

and known for its Cantonese dishes and congee.<br />

Five Fortune Culture House located downtown at<br />

Richmond and King is well known for its Yunnanstyle<br />

home cooking with Sichuan and Guizhou<br />

influences.<br />

Thursday nights are now a Jazz Night at Michael’s<br />

On <strong>The</strong> Thames, with a different jazz ensemble<br />

featured each week. Join Michael’s for a glass of<br />

wine, appetizers or dinner BUT be sure to join them<br />

for the jazz on Thursdays! 1 York St, London, 519-<br />

672-0111, michaelsonthethames.com<br />

Wich is Wich has relocated to Wellington St., south<br />

of Oxford (once Willie’s Café), serving the same<br />

great food (global flavours, exotic ingredients,<br />

and textural contrasts). Still, they’re not just<br />

serving gourmet sandwiches. Chef Josh Sawyer<br />

calls it “homestyle,” and they’re taking comfort<br />

food to a whole new level. Locally-sourced<br />

whenever possible, meals are crafted from hearty

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

artisan bread, slow-roasted meats, garden-fresh<br />

vegetables, gourmet spreads and sauces. Wich<br />

is Wich’s weekend brunch (served both days),<br />

lunch, and dinner menus (Tuesday–Saturday)<br />

can be paired with great wines, local beers and<br />

cocktails. <strong>The</strong>y also offer catering, grab-and-go. 731<br />

Wellington St., 519-860-9424, wichiswich.ca<br />

Stratford<br />

Nosh Mondays at <strong>The</strong> Red Rabbit are a way of<br />

celebrating each season, allowing each chef to let<br />

their talent and creativity shine. It is also a culinary<br />

adventure. Join them Mondays from <strong>November</strong> to<br />

April. Make your reservations early. 64 Wellington<br />

Street, Stratford, 519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com<br />

We continue to hear great things about the new<br />

Braai House, which recently opened above<br />

Stratford’s iconic Keystone Alley. <strong>The</strong> menu,<br />

created by executive chef and owner Anthony<br />

Jordaan, highlights the amazing flavours that come<br />

off a South African-style braai, a wood-fired BBQ/<br />

grill. 34 Brunswick St, Stratford, 519-271-5647,<br />

braaihouse.ca<br />

Find the unexpected and latest trends in home<br />

décor, culinary must-haves and gift giving in<br />

Stratford. Explore the Stratford Christmas Trail to<br />

capture the spirit of giving and the joy of checking<br />

items off the list. You’ll discover unique and<br />

individual gift ideas when you stroll the festive<br />

streets. It is easy to kick off your holiday shopping<br />

with six gifts for just $30(+HST) and a choice of 25<br />

stops. Purchase your pass at Stratford Tourism,<br />

Village Craft and Candle in St. Marys, or <strong>The</strong> British<br />

Touch in Shakespeare — before <strong>December</strong> 20.<br />

Visit the highly anticipated Christmas Open<br />

Houses at Rheo Thompson Candies (<strong>November</strong> 3),<br />

Bradshaws (<strong>November</strong> 8) and Wills & Prior “Deck<br />

the Halls” event (<strong>November</strong> 9) to discover the first<br />

of the holiday trends, flavours and gifts. Enjoy the<br />

holiday splendour at <strong>The</strong> Parlour Christmas Open<br />

House and artisan creations at Treasures (both<br />

<strong>November</strong> 24). <strong>The</strong> Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop<br />

marks ten years in Stratford with tastings (Dec. 5).<br />

Sip wine and shop at the Start the <strong>Holiday</strong>s Art<br />

Show and Sale, at Factory163 where the building’s<br />

heritage character complements the artisanal<br />

creativity (Dec. 7–8).<br />

Stratford Chefs School invites you to an array of<br />

culinary classes for the home cook. Learn to make<br />

an amazing home charcuterie board (<strong>November</strong> 18),<br />

cooking with cannabis (<strong>November</strong> 25), and much<br />

more. Stratford Chefs School Dinners, prepared by<br />

students, take place Tuesday through Saturday at<br />

the new Stratford Chefs School Kitchens. Student-<br />

Now Accepting<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong> Party<br />

Bookings!<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s<br />

fresh, creative, locallysourced<br />

menus extend<br />

to full-service catering<br />

to Strathroy, London &<br />

area. Call for a quote!<br />

<strong>The</strong> heart of<br />

Downtown<br />

Strathroy<br />

Voted #1 Best Burger<br />

in Strathroy<br />

2018 Spirit Awards<br />

Winner<br />

Historic Post Office & Customs Building<br />

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500<br />

www.clocktower-inn.com

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

BISTRO • CONFERENCE • SUITES • SPA<br />

519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

Lovingly Crafted with Skill & Heart<br />

Owners Tabitha & Dave<br />

New York Style Bagels! Apple & Blueberry Fritters!<br />

Open Until<br />

Christmas Eve<br />

For <strong>Holiday</strong><br />

Orders<br />

Natural Ingredients<br />

from Local Vendors<br />

Baked with Butter<br />

from Scratch In House<br />

900 Oxford Street East at Gammage<br />

519-601-1651<br />

created menus as well as international inspirations<br />

are paired with wine and can be reserved online.<br />

stratfordchef.com<br />

Junction 56 Distillery’s spirited tours introduce<br />

you to the making of craft spirits, and provide and<br />

opportunity to taste and ask questions of the crafters<br />

while stocking the holiday bar. (Saturdays at 11 am)<br />

45 Cambria St., 519-305-5535, junction56.ca<br />

<strong>The</strong> Milky Whey Fine Cheese shop presents<br />

“Creating the Perfect <strong>Holiday</strong> Charcuterie Board<br />

Workshop”, including refreshments (Nov 14 & 27)<br />

and Pairing Quebec cheese and Cider (Nov. 16).<br />

Take a special friend to Afternoon Tea with Santa<br />

(Dec. 8) at <strong>The</strong> Bruce. Prepare for the season with<br />

Gingerbread House Decorating (Nov. 30 and Dec.<br />

6), a <strong>Holiday</strong> Baking class (Dec. 14) and Cookie<br />

Decorating (Dec. 22), all perfect for sharing the<br />

children’s wish lists. thebruce.ca<br />

A Very Victorian Christmas returns to Market<br />

Square (<strong>November</strong> 24), for a festive and vibrant<br />

outdoor market in the heart of Stratford’s heritage<br />

downtown that includes art, music, Santa, and<br />

children’s crafts. Don’t miss the magical carousel.<br />

Mini markets will be featured on Saturdays<br />

<strong>November</strong> 30, <strong>December</strong> 7 and 14, complete with a<br />

visit from Santa.<br />

Breakfast with Santa at <strong>The</strong> Parlour (<strong>December</strong> 8).<br />

Here’s a family favourite adding to the excitement<br />

and fun of the holidays and kids under ten eat free.<br />

Santa’s Parade of Lights, Sunday, <strong>November</strong><br />

24 — one of Southern Ontario’s best Santa Claus<br />

parades. Leaving Lakeside Drive and making its way<br />

through uptown Stratford, bringing Santa to City<br />

Hall. <strong>The</strong>re are prizes for the best illuminated and<br />

best decorated floats, free hot chocolate, hotdogs<br />

and donuts at City Hall, music and carol singing,<br />

the lighting of the City Hall Christmas Tree, and<br />

decorations by Santa.<br />

Home for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s Hanukkah Party with the<br />

Stratford Chefs School, <strong>December</strong> 15. A holiday<br />

party that highlights the Jewish Festival of Lights,<br />

Hanukkah. Celebrate your family’s long-held<br />

traditions, or simply join the fun and learn more<br />

about this festival. Everyone is welcome. Hanukkah<br />

Sameach! $20/person (children 12 and under free).<br />

Congratulations to Madelyn’s Diner, which recently<br />

celebrated 34 years in business. Madelyn’s Diner<br />

would not be the business it is today without<br />

Madelyn, whose daughter reminds us “was a pioneer<br />

in Stratford, as a female business owner, providing<br />

good food, sourced-locally, long before that was a<br />

movement.” Madelyn’s mission statement reads:“It’s

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 49<br />

not about making money … It’s about feeding the<br />

world, with good food, good service and good fun.”<br />

377 Huron Street, 519-273-5296, madelynsdiner.ca<br />

<strong>The</strong> Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar features Chef<br />

Jeremy Hayton’s seasonally-inspired lunch,<br />

dinner and late-night menus using many locally<br />

procured ingredients. Lao pop-up snack bar is now<br />

the last Saturday of every month. Serving up Laos<br />

cuisine and regionally-inspired cocktails until the<br />

wee hours. Followed up with Sunday Laos snack<br />

features on the regular lunch menu. 30 Ontario St.,<br />

519-273-5886, themillstone.ca<br />

Revival House has seen some notable changes. It<br />

now offers an exciting new menu crafted by new<br />

Chef Andrew Tutt. With the colder weather, they’re<br />

also re-opening <strong>The</strong> Belfry, the perfect spot for cozy<br />

winter meals and drinks.<br />

A number of amazing musical acts will soon<br />

grace the Revival House stage: Nashville-based<br />

Canadian multi-instrumentalist and singersongwriter<br />

Linda McRae celebrates the release of<br />

her new record, Going To the Well, on <strong>November</strong><br />

14. London, Ontario vocalist Megan Schroder<br />

brings her classic country Patsy Cline tribute<br />

on <strong>November</strong> 15. Award-winning vocalist and<br />

songwriter Michael Bell presents an all-star band<br />

with <strong>The</strong> Bowie Lives, a sensational Bowie tribute,<br />

on <strong>November</strong> 16.<br />

On Sunday, <strong>December</strong> 15, from 3–5 pm, Revival<br />

House hosts the Annual Rhéo Thompson Candies’<br />

Scotch and Chocolate Pairing. Individually<br />

wonderful, brilliant when paired. Special guest<br />

certified whisky sommelier Steve Rae creates<br />

a whisky journey through Scotland, touching<br />

the different regions and flavour profiles. Rhéo<br />

Thompson Candies’ chocolatier Christine Chessell<br />

has selected a variety of chocolates to compliment<br />

the scotches. Enjoy this excellent combination of<br />

flavours for $60 per person (chocolate-only tickets<br />

are available for $25): rheothompson.com<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

Book Your<br />

<strong>Holiday</strong><br />

Parties Now!<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />

Customized Gift Baskets<br />

Baking Orders<br />

(Keto & Gluten-free options)<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

Gift Baskets<br />

<strong>The</strong> annual Bradshaw’s <strong>Holiday</strong> High Tea at<br />

Revival House is offering two seatings <strong>November</strong><br />

24, featuring three stunning seasonal loose-leaf teas<br />

from Sloane Fine Tea. Enjoy a special selection of<br />

holiday treats created just for this event by Revival<br />

House, and beautiful classical holiday-themed music<br />

by the talented musicians of the Stratford Symphony<br />

Orchestra. It’s a perfect way to celebrate the holidays<br />

with friends and relatives! bradshaws.ca<br />

Approaching the 200th anniversary of Beethoven’s<br />

death, the Stratford Symphony Orchestra presents<br />

• FAMILY FRIENDLY<br />

• Vegetarian &<br />

Vegan Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />

Closed Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

PAT<br />

OPEN<br />

Catering<br />

&<br />

Private Event<br />

Space<br />

Christmas Baking<br />

Pour Over Coffee Bar Open 7 Days a Week<br />

creambeanerycafe.com<br />

New 2nd Location!<br />

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges<br />

226-490-0301<br />

825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />

519-652-1607

Book<br />

Your <strong>Holiday</strong><br />

& Christmas<br />

Parties!<br />

Gift Certificates Available<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

Gift Cards<br />

Available<br />

Book Now for Your <strong>Holiday</strong> Party!<br />

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Legend and Legacy with Sarah Pratt performing<br />

Violin Concerto in D (<strong>November</strong> 23).<br />

Share the tradition of the Messiah performed with<br />

orchestra and presented by Stratford Concert<br />

Choir, St. Joseph›s Church (<strong>December</strong> 7). Special<br />

guests <strong>The</strong> Blyth Festival Singers.<br />

Enjoy the intimacy of a Christmas Sing-Along<br />

(<strong>December</strong> 13), presented by Stratford Symphony<br />

Orchestra at the Falstaff Family Centre.<br />

Around the Region<br />

St. Marys Winterlights Display is on between<br />

<strong>November</strong> 15 and January 5. Hop aboard horsedrawn<br />

carriages to ride through the park and<br />

admire beautiful festive light displays. <strong>The</strong> display<br />

opens following the Santa Claus Parade and will be<br />

lit nightly for all to enjoy.<br />

Love chocolate? Indulge in exquisite chocolate from<br />

Woodstock’s Habitual Chocolate — a bean-tobar<br />

chocolate company. Cocoa beans are bought<br />

from small family farms all over the world, and<br />

flavourful dark chocolates are handcrafted in<br />

the store. Choose from an assortment of culinary<br />

chocolate, dark chocolates and custom chocolates<br />

crafted for special occasions. Soy-free, nut-free,<br />

gluten and vegan options are also available.<br />

389 Dundas Street, Woodstock, 519-535-1341,<br />

habitualchocolate.com<br />

Congratulations to Dave and Michelle Schonberger<br />

of Tree to Table by Ottercreek Woodworks who<br />

recently won Best Culinary Experience in Ontario.<br />

Within their first year of operation they also won<br />

2018 Ontario’s Southwest Innovative Experience<br />

of the Year. ottercreekwoodworks.myshopify.com/<br />

products/from-tree-to-table-workshop<br />

Christmas Movie Trivia at Upper Thames Brewing<br />

Co. Test your knowledge of holiday classics while<br />

sipping on craft beer at the brewery on <strong>November</strong><br />

27. upperthamesbrewing.ca<br />

Sollgood <strong>Holiday</strong> Social Market: Hit up downtown<br />

Ingersoll for a unique, curated artisan market of<br />

local goods, handmade products and tasty treats.<br />

sollgoodsocialmarket.com<br />

Brewed Exploration at Upper Thames Brewing Co.:<br />

Step behind the bar to learn about brewing from<br />

grain to glass and even bottle your own beer on<br />

<strong>December</strong> 7th. upperthamesbrewing.ca<br />

A Taste of Norwich Township: A food and drink<br />

event featuring the best of Norwich Township on<br />

<strong>November</strong> 31st. Call 519-476-6172 for tickets.

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Enjoy an Old Fashion Christmas at Snyders Family<br />

Farm. Don’t miss out on the holiday farm fun at<br />

Snyders, including s’mores, fresh-cut trees, bakery<br />

treats, a Christmas hayride, meet n’ greet with<br />

Santa and more open weekends <strong>November</strong> 23–<br />

<strong>December</strong> 15th. snydersfamilyfarm.com<br />

Celebrate New Year’s Eve with <strong>The</strong> Beatles at <strong>The</strong><br />

Elm Hurst Inn, with a Beatles tribute band and a<br />

delicious, festive buffet. ElmHurstInn.com<br />

Oxford County chocolatier Cindy Walker is a<br />

small-town shop owner, a certified tea sommelier,<br />

and “<strong>The</strong> Queen of Ganache.” As owner and head<br />

chocolatier of Ingersoll’s Chocolatea, Cindy crafts<br />

hand-cut chocolates with unique, creative flavours<br />

and sources a handpicked selection of teas. In her<br />

upcoming Truffle Camp workshops (<strong>November</strong> 16,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 7 & 18), participants take on the role of<br />

chocolatier and step behind the counter to craft<br />

a dozen of their own delicious, multi-flavoured<br />

truffles alongside Cindy. 38 King Street East,<br />

Ingersoll, 519-495-6020, chocolatea.ca<br />

<strong>The</strong> grand opening of the 55,000-square-foot<br />

Eataly Toronto, the first in Canada, is set to open in<br />

the Manulife Centre on <strong>November</strong> 13. <strong>The</strong> food hall<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 51<br />

and culinary emporium comprises three floors,<br />

and is introducing over 1,000 Italian products new<br />

to Canada while showcasing Italy’s 20 regions.<br />

Pasta-makers, pizza-makers using specialty-made<br />

ovens, a Macelleria (butcher shop), a seafood<br />

restaurant and an Enoteca where one can have<br />

an aperitivo are among the offerings. If that isn’t<br />

enough, there is a bakery, formaggi (cheese) and<br />

salumi counter with 400-plus varieties of Italian<br />

and local cheese, a gelato lab, a chocolate and<br />

pasticceria (pastry counter), an on-site brewery, a<br />

marketplace and a culinary classroom. An all-day<br />

Grand Café serving all types of Italian-style coffees<br />

and alcoholic beverages.<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue: <strong>December</strong> 5<br />

Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

Come for the planes and fall in love with the food!<br />

Book Your Unique <strong>Holiday</strong> Party NOW!<br />

Enjoy the airport<br />

runway view!<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

for all of your<br />

gift giving<br />

needs<br />

Blair Blvd<br />

London<br />

International<br />

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Crumlin Rd<br />

Oxford St<br />

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3<br />

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9<br />

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Blvd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

a<br />

movement<br />

for<br />

restaurants<br />

who believe<br />

local food<br />

matters.<br />

®<br />

A Feast On® Certification means<br />

you’re fighting the good food fight.<br />

You’re supporting our farmers<br />

and putting local food first.<br />

To get certified, visit:<br />

ONTARIOCULINARY.COM<br />

@ONTARIOCULINARY #FEASTON

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 53<br />

<strong>The</strong>atre<br />

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!<br />

Mary Poppins is at <strong>The</strong> Grand for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

Imagine a five-year-old boy taken by his<br />

grandmother to see his first live theatre<br />

performance. It’s a musical extravaganza<br />

at <strong>The</strong> Grand <strong>The</strong>atre about the life of<br />

Barnum — of circus fame. <strong>The</strong> child sits in<br />

awe. His life in theatre has begun.<br />

Imagine a four-year-old girl taken by her<br />

mother to see her first live theatre performance<br />

in <strong>2019</strong>. It’s a musical extravaganza at <strong>The</strong><br />

Grand <strong>The</strong>atre with her uncle as Bert, in Mary<br />

Poppins this holiday season.<br />

Her uncle was that five-year old boy. Mark<br />

Uhre’s theatre career comes full circle <strong>November</strong><br />

26 to <strong>December</strong> 29 when he steps onto the<br />

stage to perform for the next generation of<br />

theatregoers, including his niece.<br />

“It’s a great feeling to return to the place<br />

where everything started. Growing up I always<br />

loved coming<br />

downtown during<br />

the holidays,”<br />

says Uhre in an<br />

interview with<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>. “Mary<br />

Poppins will be<br />

my niece’s first<br />

show so we are all<br />

excited and pretty<br />

emotional, as it is a<br />

special story from<br />

our own childhood,”<br />

he adds.<br />

Uhre’s first role was at the Grand in 1992. He<br />

was 12 years old when he played in A Christmas<br />

Carol, which starred the legendary Canadian<br />

actor William Hutt. While studying at Beal<br />

Secondary School in London in 1998, Uhre<br />

starred as Tony in a High School Production of<br />

West Side Story. “That was it. I started focusing<br />

on theatre and music as a career, rather than<br />

visual art. <strong>The</strong> Grand has been a huge part of<br />

my development as an artist.”<br />

And what a career! Uhre made it to<br />

Broadway as Enjolras in Les Misérables in<br />

2016. He says he has been very fortunate to<br />

play major stages here in Canada, including<br />

Stratford and Shaw, as well as in the U.K.<br />

“When Broadway came along it was an<br />

amazing surprise and was a really special time.<br />

It also put a great deal into perspective for<br />

Mark Uhre stars as Bert<br />

in Mary Poppins, at <strong>The</strong><br />

Grand <strong>The</strong>atre. He’s also<br />

an artist; here he stands<br />

in front of one of his<br />

paintings (hanging in<br />

Revel Cafe in Stratford).

54 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Disney anD C a m e r o n<br />

m a C kintosh’s<br />

MARY POPPINS<br />

<strong>The</strong> practically perfect musical<br />

<strong>November</strong> 26 to <strong>December</strong> 29<br />

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WORLD PREMIERE<br />

<strong>The</strong> Crooner<br />

Show<br />

Give the Gift of Live <strong>The</strong>atre<br />

by LINK<br />

Productions<br />

May 19 to May 23<br />

Our House<br />

by Murray Furrow<br />

July 1 to July 18<br />

2020 Summer <strong>The</strong>atre Season<br />

A<br />

LegAL<br />

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by Chris Gibbs<br />

May 26 to May 30<br />

Hurry<br />

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by Kristen Da Silva<br />

July 22 to August 15<br />

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Jonas and Barry<br />

in the Home<br />

by Norm Foster<br />

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June 3 to June 27<br />

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By Dan Needles<br />

August 19 to<br />

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me artistically. Great artistic growth and<br />

experience can happen anywhere. My time<br />

on Broadway is equally matched artistically<br />

by every theatre I have worked in. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

have all been equal in providing artistic<br />

growth,” says Uhre.<br />

Aside from acting, he is also an<br />

illustrator and a painter. He shared with<br />

us a photo of one of his paintings that<br />

hangs in Revel Coffee House in Stratford.<br />

Uhre says the words in the painting spell<br />

out “Use your Imagination” something he<br />

says we all need to do more of, no matter<br />

what age.<br />

So, it’s apt that Uhre returns home to<br />

London for the holidays and Mary Poppins,<br />

a story he and his family love. He says, of<br />

all the great stages he’s been honoured to<br />

play upon, that if he had to choose one<br />

favourite it would be the Grand. “It really<br />

is where it all started for me as a little kid.<br />

So, to return to London and create theatre<br />

with fellow artists on the stage where I<br />

saw my first professional show at five and<br />

then performed as a little kid is a pretty<br />

amazing thing.”<br />

Regional <strong>The</strong>atre <strong>Holiday</strong> Round-up<br />

A Christmas Carol<br />

<strong>The</strong>atre Sarnia, <strong>November</strong> 22–30<br />

a really Retro CROONER Christmas<br />

Created by Rick Kish<br />

Port Stanley Festival <strong>The</strong>atre, <strong>December</strong> 14,<br />

2 p.m. and 8 p.m.<br />

Huron Country Playhouse II, <strong>November</strong> 30,<br />

2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.<br />

Wonderful World of Christmas: Comeback<br />

Huron Country Playhouse, Saturday, <strong>December</strong><br />

14, 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.<br />

A Huron County Christmas Carol<br />

Adapted by Gil Garratt, songs by John Powers<br />

Blyth Festival <strong>The</strong>atre, <strong>November</strong> 28–<strong>December</strong> 22<br />

A Country Supper is offered at the Blyth Legion on<br />

<strong>November</strong> 29, <strong>November</strong> 30, <strong>December</strong> 6, and<br />

<strong>December</strong> 13, hosted by a local church or Blyth<br />

Legion Ladies’ Auxiliary.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. She<br />

is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at King’s<br />

University College in London.

56 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

A Gourmet Life<br />

Save Me the Plums: My Gourmet Memoir<br />

by Ruth Reichl<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Iwas working on the frontlines in a<br />

bookstore when in 2009 Gourmet<br />

magazine had its last stand. I had<br />

been searching for the latest issue,<br />

for a customer, when the staff member who<br />

stocked the magazines informed me that<br />

Gourmet was defunct — one month here,<br />

the next month not. I was surprised that an<br />

established magazine with staunch readership<br />

could fold simply because the internet had<br />

become a major player as a publishing option.<br />

A decade after that demise Ruth Reichl, the<br />

editor at the time, has published Save Me the<br />

Plums: My Gourmet Memoir (Random House,<br />

<strong>2019</strong>). It recounts her rise to fame in the<br />

magazine world, even as Gourmet was on the<br />

brink of its fall.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are perhaps only a handful of<br />

people who have had more of an impact<br />

on culinary writing than Reichl; the upper<br />

ranks managing high-end magazines under<br />

the Condé Nast umbrella were well aware of<br />

her literary reputation when they offered<br />

her the editor-in-chief position at the<br />

prestigious epicurean magazine. Reichl had<br />

adored Gourmet as a<br />

child and credits her<br />

love of food, in part,<br />

to early editions she<br />

had thumbed through<br />

in used-book stores in<br />

her youth. When she<br />

became a writer she<br />

desperately wanted to be<br />

a contributor. Although<br />

she never did — it<br />

became too prissy and<br />

stodgy for her — she<br />

somehow found herself<br />

being asked to take<br />

charge of it at a time<br />

when it was<br />

in need of<br />

revitalization.<br />

Reichl would<br />

be coming<br />

off her sixyear<br />

stint<br />

as <strong>The</strong> New<br />

York Times<br />

restaurant<br />

critic,<br />

and she<br />

justifies<br />

the change in<br />

profession by recognizing the time<br />

it would give her to have dinner with her<br />

husband and so — time she had lost eating<br />

at restaurants alone all those years. Adding<br />

the perks of a clothing allowance and an office<br />

with a private bathroom made it a hard offer<br />

to pass up.<br />

Save Me the Plums provides glimpses into<br />

her personal life, like those more-frequent,<br />

home-cooked meals that her son delighted<br />

in, but it mainly focuses on her professional<br />

relationships with<br />

publishers, editors,<br />

artists, writers,<br />

photographers, test<br />

kitchen cooks, and<br />

marketers, while at the<br />

helm of Gourmet. <strong>The</strong><br />

history of what went<br />

on during her tenure is<br />

directly linked to how<br />

the corporate bigwigs<br />

moved staff around<br />

or let them go in a<br />

flurry, forcing Reichl to<br />

Author Ruth Reichl

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 57<br />

FRESH gift ideas yule love<br />

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manage HR issues that were not her forte.<br />

Readers of the book will not be surprised<br />

by the story’s unfortunate conclusion, so<br />

Reichl presumably focuses on her colleagues<br />

(whether she liked working with them or<br />

not) to pay homage to their handiwork<br />

in regenerating an iconic magazine for a<br />

time. Even though she was dealing with the<br />

business of magazine editing more than<br />

tasting dishes or writing about them, there<br />

are still the requisite delicious descriptions<br />

she is known for from her previous books:<br />

taste testing a chocolate cake in the Gourmet<br />

test kitchen; sharing the Spicy Chinese Noodle<br />

recipe she makes for her son; describing bread<br />

from a neighbourhood bakery by writing it<br />

was “like tasting history, like savoring the<br />

first loaf of bread ever baked.” It is a Reichl<br />

memoir, after all, and she always comes back<br />

to the food.<br />

I enjoy memoirs that are narrower in<br />

scope, not sprawling narratives from cradle<br />

to grave. Reichl’s career as a writer has many<br />

layers and Save Me the Plums covers a decade<br />

of her life when Gourmet became one more<br />

notch in her literary belt. Her contributions to<br />

Gourmet were transformational: she embraced<br />

the changes surfacing in the restaurant<br />

scene, tackled the rise of celebrity chefs by<br />

putting them on the cover in rock star poses<br />

(photographed by Matthew Rolston who did<br />

Rolling Stone covers), and commissioned<br />

cutting-edge articles from authors like David<br />

Foster Wallace. Amid these successes, what<br />

is most heartbreaking about her story is how<br />

Condé Nast shut Gourmet down when the high<br />

times of the print magazine world crumbled<br />

under the pressure of the internet. Reichl<br />

had to live through it and she reveals how the<br />

extraction of something that had touched her<br />

personal life and shaped her career so much<br />

was devastating. For Reichl, “A world without<br />

Gourmet was unimaginable.” She could not<br />

move forward by publishing more issues,<br />

but only be inspired by her collection of back<br />

issues, in the same way they had stirred her as<br />

a child.<br />

DARIN COOK is a Chatham-based freelance writer<br />

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.

58 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s<br />

Recipes to Bring Comfort andJoy<br />

by Anna Olson<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s with Anna Olson:<br />

Recipes to Bring Comfort and Joy:<br />

From Starters to Sweets, for the Festive<br />

Season and Almost Every Day (2018;<br />

Appetite by Random House) is a soothing<br />

trip through a beautiful world of confident<br />

entertaining, elegant décor, and food that’s<br />

almost too pretty to eat.<br />

Anna Olson is an award winning pastry<br />

chef, author, and television personality. Born<br />

in Atlanta, Georgia, she spent her childhood<br />

in Toronto and now calls the Niagara region<br />

her home. She’s become the sunny face of<br />

Canadian baking through her online and TV<br />

presence and her collection of cookbooks.<br />

Chef Olson’s ideas of entertaining at the<br />

holidays can be summed up by the word<br />

“sparkle” and she tells us that “you can’t have<br />

sparkle if you have stress.”<br />

Most of the dishes in Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s<br />

are decidedly festive, but they’d work as well<br />

for any other celebration. <strong>The</strong>re’s a Lemon<br />

Meringue Yule Log recipe that’s going to<br />

become Lemon Meringue Tracy’s Birthday<br />

Cake for at least a few years.<br />

Given Olson’s fame as a pastry chef, it’s no<br />

surprise that half of this book<br />

is devoted to the sweet side of<br />

the holidays. That still leaves<br />

half a book of savoury dishes<br />

that somehow manage to look<br />

as delicate and delicious as the<br />

sweets. <strong>The</strong>re are multi-option<br />

menus for both Thanksgiving<br />

and Christmas, as well as<br />

sophisticated New Year’s Eve<br />

nibbles, and brunch for the<br />

whole family.<br />

Vegan and vegetarian<br />

options are clearly marked<br />

but my favourite icon was<br />

the “particularly gift-able”<br />

symbol that marks recipes<br />

that are perfect<br />

for creating<br />

homemade<br />

kitchen<br />

gifts. <strong>The</strong>re’s<br />

nothing like<br />

wowing<br />

your guests<br />

with a great<br />

meal, then<br />

sending<br />

them<br />

home<br />

with a jar<br />

of the magical ingredient.<br />

I also appreciated the chapter on leftovers.<br />

Olson gives us recipes for comforting one-pot<br />

meals to transform your holiday leftovers and<br />

warm you through the rest of the cold season.<br />

I have nearly given up on serving turkey,<br />

making the easier choice of chicken or ham<br />

for my holiday feasts. I changed my mind<br />

when I saw Marinated Boneless Turkey<br />

Breast Roast with Panchetta Gravy. If that<br />

title alone wasn’t enough to sway me, the<br />

author suggests a gluten-free option that<br />

substitutes Caramelized<br />

Onion Cream for the gravy.<br />

You need to follow two other<br />

(easy) recipes to get this<br />

exact sauce, but I will tell you<br />

that it combines two cups<br />

of caramelized onions, one<br />

cup of whipping cream, and<br />

one ounce of brandy. <strong>Holiday</strong><br />

decadence in the most<br />

elegant way.<br />

Since turkey dinner isn’t<br />

complete without dressing,<br />

there are Sausage Dressing<br />

Squares. Basically these are<br />

Anna Olson

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 59<br />

Thanksgiving dinner in a finger food. With or<br />

without the bacon they are a perfect appetizer,<br />

or a dangerously addictive television snack.<br />

An Anna Olson book review wouldn’t be<br />

complete without a pastry and the Kouign<br />

Amann might be the best pastry I had never<br />

heard of. Olson describes it as resembling “a<br />

croissant that is a little more like puff pastry,<br />

with a caramelized sugar crust and soft sweet<br />

interior.” It fits all my preconceived notions<br />

of French pastry: it’s fussy, requires a lot of<br />

patience and is best eaten fresh from the oven.<br />

I will probably drive my family crazy trying to<br />

master this dish.<br />

Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s makes you feel like you<br />

can have all this sparkle without any stress.<br />

That’s something to celebrate all year long.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Excerpted from Set for the <strong>Holiday</strong>s with Anna Olson by<br />

Anna Olson. Copyright © <strong>2019</strong> Anna Olson. Photography<br />

by Janis Nicolay. Published by Appetite by Random<br />

House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada<br />

Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Marinated Boneless Turkey Breast Roast<br />

with pancetta gravy<br />

Serves 6 to 8 (with enough for leftovers)<br />

Prep: 20 minutes, plus marinating<br />

Cook: 105 minutes.<br />

This marinated turkey recipe, which I call my<br />

turketta, strays from the traditional whole<br />

turkey (page 93). It’s a nice option<br />

if you have a small kitchen or if<br />

your family insists on turkey for<br />

Thanksgiving and Christmas, but you’d<br />

rather not serve the same menu twice.<br />

Porchetta is a boneless herb-rubbed<br />

pork loin that is roasted until the skin<br />

crisps up. Here I use similar flavours<br />

but with turkey. For a fully gluten-free<br />

option, substitute Caramelized Onion<br />

Cream (page 120) for the gravy.<br />

MAKE AHEAD<br />

You should start marinating the turkey at least<br />

3 hours (up to a maximum of 24 hours) before it<br />

is to go in the oven. Any cooked leftovers (hello,<br />

turkey sandwich!) will keep, well wrapped, for<br />

up to 4 days in the fridge and up to 3 months in<br />

the freezer. Thaw in the fridge before using.<br />

TURKEY<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil<br />

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped<br />

3 cloves garlic, chopped<br />

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon<br />

8 large fresh sage leaves<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) fresh thyme leaves<br />

2 tsp salt, plus extra for the turkey<br />

1 tsp chili flakes<br />

½ tsp black pepper, plus extra for the<br />

turkey<br />

2 turkey breasts, each about 2¼ lb/1<br />

kg<br />

3 Tbsp (45 g) butter<br />

GRAVY<br />

1 cup (125 g) uncooked diced pancetta<br />

3 Tbsp (45 g) combined pancetta fat and butter<br />

¼ cup (35 g) all-purpose flour<br />

2 cups (500 mL) low-sodium or no-salt-added<br />

chicken or turkey stock

60 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

1 It’s best to prepare the marinade right before using it.<br />

Purée the oil, onion, garlic, lemon zest, sage, thyme,<br />

salt, chili flakes and pepper in a food processor or<br />

blender until evenly combined.<br />

2 Remove and discard any bones from the turkey breasts.<br />

Place the turkey, skin side down, in a casserole dish or<br />

other pan. Set aside ¼ cup (60 mL) of the marinade for<br />

the sauce and pour the rest over the turkey. Cover the<br />

dish with plastic wrap and let the turkey marinate in<br />

the fridge for at least 3 hours, or up to a maximum of<br />

24 hours.<br />

3 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Using butcher’s<br />

twine, tie the turkey breasts together, skin sides facing<br />

out, leaving as much of the marinade between them as<br />

possible. Pat the outside of the breasts with paper towels<br />

and transfer to a roasting pan. Rub the turkey skin with<br />

butter and season lightly with salt and pepper.<br />

4 Roast the turkey, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Reduce<br />

the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and roast for 60<br />

to 70 minutes more, basting the turkey with the juices<br />

often, until the centre of each breast registers 170°F<br />

(77°C) on a meat thermometer. Transfer the turkey to a<br />

cutting board, cover with aluminum foil and let it rest<br />

while you prepare the gravy.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

5 For the gravy, use the roasting pan if it has toasted<br />

bits that aren’t burnt, otherwise heat a clean medium<br />

saucepan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and<br />

cook until crisp, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.<br />

Spoon the cooked pancetta onto a plate and drain the<br />

fat into a measuring cup.<br />

6 Measure 3 Tbsp (45 mL) of the fat back into the pan,<br />

supplementing with butter if needed. Add the flour,<br />

and stir with a wooden spoon over medium heat until<br />

the roux becomes the colour of peanut butter, about 7<br />

minutes.<br />

7 Add the reserved ¼ cup (60 mL) of marinade, stirring<br />

well, and then whisk in 1 cup (250 mL) of the stock,<br />

waiting until it begins to bubble before whisking in the<br />

remaining 1 cup (250 mL). Bring the gravy to a simmer,<br />

add the cooked pancetta and season to taste with salt<br />

and pepper.<br />

8 To serve, untie the turkey, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) slices<br />

and serve with the gravy.<br />

HELPFUL HINT<br />

Traditional porchetta seasoning also includes rosemary<br />

and fennel, but I find these flavours can be overwhelming<br />

and not always family-friendly, which is why I don’t use<br />

them in this turketta.<br />

Kouign Amann<br />

Makes 12 Pastries<br />

Prep: 30 Minutes<br />

Cook: 35 Minutes<br />

I fell in love with these pastries a few<br />

years back on a visit to Montreal, a<br />

city that is pastry heaven! This layered,<br />

buttery sweet pastry was created in<br />

Brittany, a region of France famous<br />

for its butter (kouign amann means<br />

“cake butter” in Breton). Imagine a<br />

croissant that is a little more like puff<br />

pastry, with a caramelized sugar crust<br />

and a soft sweet interior . . . Now get<br />

ready to bake! Like many classic French<br />

pastries, kouign amann take patience<br />

and adherence to timing—they’re the<br />

boss, not you, but you get to take all of<br />

the credit when friends and family rave<br />

about them.<br />

MAKE AHEAD<br />

I don’t recommend baking these ahead of time,<br />

since they are best enjoyed the day they are baked.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are tastiest once cool, when the caramelized<br />

sugar on the surface has had time to set and<br />

become crunchy. Timing is key when rolling,<br />

folding and letting your kouign amann rise. If you<br />

do want to make these ahead of time to freeze and<br />

bake later, make the dough, do the first 2 folds

eatdrink: <strong>The</strong> Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

and then freeze, well wrapped, for up to 3 months. Thaw the<br />

dough overnight in the fridge before continuing with the folds<br />

that use sugar. (If you were to freeze the assembled kouign<br />

amann, the sugar would liquefy once thawed and you would<br />

end up with sticky pastries that are difficult to handle.)<br />

DOUGH<br />

2 ½ cups (375 g) all-purpose flour<br />

2 Tbsp (25 g) granulated sugar<br />

1 pkg (2¼ tsp/8 g) instant dry yeast<br />

1 tsp fine sea salt<br />

1 cup (250 mL) cool water<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil<br />

BUTTER AND ASSEMBLY<br />

1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, at room<br />

temperature<br />

½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar, divided<br />

1 For the dough, combine the flour, sugar, yeast and salt<br />

in a large mixing bowl, if mixing by hand, or in a stand<br />

mixer fitted with the hook attachment. Add the water<br />

and oil and stir together on low speed until combined.<br />

Increase the speed 1 level and mix until the dough<br />

feels smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. (If mixing<br />

by hand, stir the dough with a wooden spoon until it<br />

becomes too difficult, and then turn it out onto a work<br />

surface once combined and knead until elastic, about<br />

6 minutes. <strong>The</strong> dough should come off the bottom and<br />

sides of the bowl but will be relatively soft.)<br />

2 Place the dough in an ungreased bowl, cover the bowl<br />

with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 hour, until doubled<br />

in size. Punch the dough down, shape it into a 10-inch<br />

(25 cm) square (dust your hands with flour to prevent<br />

sticking), wrap in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour, or<br />

up to 8 hours.<br />

3 For the butter, beat the butter and 2 Tbsp (25 g) of<br />

the sugar together. Line the bottom and sides of a 9 ×<br />

5-inch (2 L) loaf pan with plastic wrap and press the<br />

butter into the bottom in an even layer. Wrap well and<br />

chill for at least 1 hour.<br />

4 If preparing the dough and butter more than 1 hour<br />

ahead, pull both out from the fridge 30 minutes before<br />

rolling. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured<br />

surface. Place the rectangle of butter on top of the<br />

dough and fold the dough over so the sheet of butter is<br />

hidden. Press out any air pockets and pinch the dough,<br />

just a little, to enclose the butter.<br />

5 Roll out the dough to a rectangle 12 × 18 inches (30 × 45<br />

cm), just under ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Bring the short sides<br />

together so that they meet in the centre and then fold the<br />

dough in half like a book. Rotate the dough 90 degrees<br />

and repeat, this time folding the dough into thirds. Wrap<br />

the dough in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.<br />

6 Lightly dust a work surface with ¼ cup (50 g) of the<br />

sugar and roll out the dough to a rectangle 12 × 18<br />

inches (30 × 45 cm), just under ½ inch (1 cm) thick.<br />

Sprinkle the top of the dough with the remaining 2<br />

Tbsp (25 g) of sugar and fold it in thirds.<br />

7 Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat the rolling and<br />

folding (but not adding more sugar at this point). Wrap<br />

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and chill the dough for exactly 20 minutes (any longer,<br />

the sugar will dissolve).<br />

8 Grease a 12-cup muffin pan and set aside. Unwrap the<br />

dough and roll it (no additional flour or sugar will be<br />

needed) into a rectangle 16 × 12 inches (40 × 30 cm) and<br />

just over ¼ inch (0.5 cm) thick.<br />

9 Trim away any rough edges and cut the dough into<br />

twelve 4-inch (10 cm) squares.<br />

10 Bring the corners of each square into the centre, pinch<br />

them together and press down gently. Press each<br />

pastry into a muffin cup and cover the pan with a tea<br />

towel, letting the dough rise for 1 hour.<br />

11 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Place the muffin pan<br />

on a parchment-lined baking tray and bake for 30 to<br />

35 minutes, until the kouign amann are a rich golden<br />

brown. Carefully turn them out of the pan (they will be<br />

sticky and hot) onto a wire rack to cool completely.<br />

HELPFUL HINTS<br />

When you are rolling and folding the kouign amann in<br />

sugar for the final time, you need to work quickly — the<br />

more you handle the dough, the more it will warm up and<br />

then liquefy the sugar. Once you get the pastries into the<br />

pan, the pressure is off.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are times when investing in top-quality butter<br />

really counts, and this is one of them (shortbread cookies<br />

are another). Most butter in Canada has a fat content of<br />

80%, but premium butter has 82% (check the label). That<br />

extra 2% makes a big difference in a pastry where butter is<br />

important for flavour and texture.<br />

,<br />

Christmas Goodies!

62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> Lighter Side<br />

A Child’s Christmas<br />

By MARK KEARNEY<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

<strong>The</strong> art of being good at Christmas,<br />

as I came to understand it as a child,<br />

included helping Mom with the<br />

upcoming feast.<br />

It was always turkey, and it called for<br />

dressing. (Some others called it “stuffing”<br />

but it was “dressing” in our house.) My sister<br />

and I would sit in the kitchen, a loaf or two of<br />

bread and a large bowl facing us, and tear the<br />

future dressing into small bits,<br />

occasionally popping a stray piece<br />

or two into our mouths. At that<br />

point it was just bread, but we<br />

knew come Christmas that with<br />

the addition of onion, pepper and<br />

perhaps other herbs with which<br />

we had no familiarity, it would<br />

taste tantalizing when scooped<br />

from inside the roasted bird.<br />

A few days later on Christmas<br />

afternoon, with the turkey<br />

ensconced in the oven, we would<br />

spill onto our street in the village<br />

eager to share stories of our lovely loot,<br />

which now lay opened and scattered under<br />

the exhausted tree. Chatting with friends, we<br />

would get a taste of how everyone’s Christmas<br />

had been so far, and how eagerly we were all<br />

looking forward to the evening feast.<br />

After one more inspection of our presents<br />

before dinner, we gathered at the table. Bring<br />

out the roasted turkey, the mashed potatoes,<br />

the peas, the corn, the dressing, tomato juice,<br />

wine for the adults, and the gravy — most<br />

of all the glorious gravy. What is better as a<br />

child than pouring the brown elixir that is<br />

gravy onto the white meat, the dark meat, the<br />

potatoes — oh, yes, smother the potatoes with<br />

it — and watching it flow river-like through the<br />

vegetables into a pool on the only tiny spot on<br />

my plate that isn’t heaped with food?<br />

We didn’t just eat the Christmas bird, we<br />

attacked it as if it were the last we would ever<br />

have. I’d tuck away my second helping before<br />

my stomach had even acknowledged the first.<br />

Yes, there would be sighs and groans later as<br />

our bloated bellies rebelled, but it was always<br />

worth it. For dessert there was no traditional<br />

flaming pudding in our household, but instead<br />

… birthday cake. <strong>December</strong> 25 was the date<br />

of my brother’s birthday, so out came the<br />

candled cake, always chocolate, and he’d make<br />

a wish. (No doubt he craved any other day for<br />

his birthday so that his gifts could be spread<br />

out longer than 24 hours.)<br />

<strong>The</strong> clock’s hands have moved relentlessly<br />

forward since those early years,<br />

and each Christmas blends into<br />

the next and the next. Some gifts<br />

more memorable than others,<br />

some feasts better than previous<br />

ones. Christmas Eve’s midnight<br />

mass has long been replaced<br />

by other rituals — traditional<br />

tourtière for dinner and glasses<br />

of wine followed by screenings<br />

of A Christmas Carol or It’s A<br />

Wonderful Life.<br />

On those perfect occasions<br />

with the drape of winter<br />

darkness descended and the snow drowsily<br />

dropping outside the window, I’m taken<br />

back to those decades-ago days. Dry voices<br />

from the past, as if carried in by a gentle<br />

gust, whisper in my weary ears their tales<br />

of Christmases past. Half-heartedly fighting<br />

sleep, I recall snatches of long-ago village<br />

gossip, a half-sung carol wafting over the<br />

churchyard, delightful screams from a nearby<br />

hill as children hurtle downward on the<br />

toboggan ride of their lives, or the barely<br />

stifled laughter of a rosy-cheeked boyhood<br />

chum nestled beside me in a snow fort<br />

plotting our next brave move.<br />

And now, wrapped in the warm embrace<br />

of midnight and memories of bygone times,<br />

I slip softly to sleep, the promise of another<br />

Christmas meal mere hours away.<br />

MARK KEARNEY has been a journalist for more than<br />

35 years and has been published in nearly 80 publications<br />

in North America. He teaches writing and journalism at<br />

Western University.

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