Jeweller - November 2019

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
NOVEMBER 2019
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY NOVEMBER 2019
Fast fashion
QUICK-MOVING FASHION JEWELLERY
GIVES RETAILERS AN EDGE
Whiten up
+ +
INSIDE THE DIVERSE CATEGORY
OF WHITE METALS
Boss of Basel
MICHEL LORIS-MELIKOFF’S PLAN TO
MAKE BASELWORLD GREAT AGAIN

Visit our website or call our Melbourne office for details:
Room 405, 4th Floor, Wales Building, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000
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• Argyle Origin Certificates
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• Complete Packaging and Stands

CONTENTS
NOVEMBER 2019
15/
17/
31/
FEATURES
REGULARS
BUSINESS
15/ EVERYTHING BASEL
Face to face with the CEO of
Baselworld, Michel Loris-Melikoff.
17/ SHINING WHITE
How jewellers can take advantage of
white metals’ diverse properties.
25/ AFTER A FASHION
Dynamic, affordable and always on
trend: why consumers – and retailers
– love fashion jewellery.
29/ INCLUSIVE RETAIL
Retailers are missing out on sales to
customers with disabilities.
31/ TIME’S A-TICKING
The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair
defi es political upheaval.
7/ Editorial
8/ Upfront
10/ News
14/ New Products
33/ Gems
Garnet: gem of many colours – Part II
41/ My Store
42/ 10 Years Ago
44/ My Bench
46/ Soapbox
David Hollanders says top-notch
customer service is the only way to
survive these challenging times.
35/ Business feature
Sue Barrett turns a critical eye on
the myths that shape businesses
– and society.
37/ Selling
Now’s the time to get your
Christmas planning done, writes
David Brown.
38/ Management
Effective leaders should consider
being silent, says Mike Kotsis.
39/ Marketing
There’s more to marketing than
advertising, writes Barry Urquhart.
40/ Logged On
Lilian Sue reveals how to make the
most of Instagram’s video function.
Front cover description:
The Pink Kimberley Mer De
Glace ring features a stunning
marquise cut Australian Argyle
pink diamond surrounded by
a sea of marquise cut white
diamonds, set in 18-carat rose
and white gold.
November 2019 Jeweller 5

Coeur de Lion are proudly celebrating 20 years
of the GEOCUBE ® , the unique and instantly
recognisable award winning design, handmade
in Germany.
The Coeur de Lion brand continues to grow in
popularity worldwide with Retail Partners in over
30 countries.
Hear what some Coeur de Lion Retail Partners
have to say...
“What a wonderful brand to deal with.
Every time I wear Coeur de Lion, it always attracts
great compliments. I am excited to sell this beautiful
range.
On top of the gorgeous high-quality jewellery, the
brand team are awesome. They are so helpful and
responsive which is very important for a retailer as it
means we can offer the best service to our customer.
Overall, I love wearing Coeur de Lion; I love selling the
range and love the team working behind the brand.
There is nothing other than praise from me.“
Ariel - Petersens Jewellers - New Zealand
“Evert Fine Jewellery Cairns embraced the Coeur
de Lion Jewellery brand 3 years ago - it has been a
wonderful addition to our store providing a colourful,
stylish & affordable range of fashion jewellery.
CDL’s appeal & suitability connects with a broad
demographic of clientele with its wearability for
any occasion & fashion choice. CDL’s style & quality
sits well with our fine jewellery. We are excited to
continue featuring exciting new season colours and
designs.”
Geraldine - Evert Fine Jewellery - Australia
“THE COEUR DE LION
DISPLAY IN OUR WINDOW
DRIVES AN AMAZING
AMOUNT OF TRAFFIC
INTO OUR STORE”
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Timesupply
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p +61 (0)8 8221 5580
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exclusive distributor AU & NZ

EDITORIAL
NO SACRED COWS IN CHALLENGING TIMES
I can’t recall a time of greater change in the
jewellery industry. Nothing and nobody
seems immune. A case in point: the recent
news that one of the greatest names in
jewellery history could change hands,
with iconic US company Tiffany & Co. to
become French if a takeover offer by LVMH
is successful.
I wonder what the New Yorkers will say about
that, given that LVMH is the world’s largest
luxury group with more than 75 different
brands under its control. Europe’s richest
man, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, made a
$US14.5 billion offer for the 180 year old
business. His personal fortune is reported
to be close to $US100 billion.
At the time of publication, the deal was still
only a proposal – yet Tiffany & Co. shares
soared 30 per cent when LVMH confirmed it
was interested in the acquisition.
While that’s going on, another jewellery giant
is going through interesting times. Pandora’s
share price continues to be all over the place.
It surged in late August after CEO Alexander
Lacik re-launched the brand in a huge Los
Angeles event – but the stock is still nowhere
near recent highs, with some speculating
that the company could be privatised.
Pandora’s woes are well documented.
In July last year, when I published the editorial
‘Pandora: The beginning of the end’, its
shares were trading at around DKK418; at the
time of this editorial’s publication, they had
fallen to DKK320. Indeed, they were trading
as low as DKK230 in June this year – which
demonstrates why the brand needed to
be re-launched.
To be fair, at various times both Tiffany &
Co. and Pandora have been unpopular
among the investment community (as are all
companies at one point or another) but many
of Pandora’s problems have been self-inflicted,
resulting in it falling out of favour with both
consumers and retailers. Whether the brand
can regain its once almighty standing in the
marketplace is yet to be seen.
While it’s important to note that each brand
targets different markets, Tiffany and Pandora
have vied for the mantle of the ‘world’s
largest jewellery brand’ for many years. When
measured by volume (jewellery items sold)
Pandora wins hands down; if measured by
market capitalisation, it fluctuates wildly.
If measured by revenue, then the competition
really becomes interesting – they are often
neck-and-neck, at around $US4 billion.
It should also be remembered that while
many other jewellery and watch companies
such as LVMH and Swatch Group have greater
sales than Tiffany and Pandora, total revenue
comes from multiple individual brands.
Pandora and Tiffany are standalone brands.
And on the topic of self-inflicted stuff-ups,
Baselworld has done an equally good job as
Pandora at shooting itself in the foot. Once
the world’s largest jewellery event, organiser
IF YOU’VE NEVER
ATTENDED
BASELWORLD,
I HIGHLY
RECOMMEND
YOU DO –
JEWELLERS
SHOULD MAKE A
PILGRIMAGE TO
THE INDUSTRY’S
MECCA AT LEAST
ONCE IN THEIR
LIFETIME
MCH Group managed to ignore societal and
industry changes going on around them to
such an extent that Baselworld is a shadow
of its former glory.
Like Pandora, Baselworld’s woes have been
covered extensively. Indeed, MCH Group is
listed on the Swiss Stock Exchange and its
share price lulls around CHF26. It has steadily
declined from CHF66 in January last year to
as low as CHF15.
As my interview with CEO Michel Loris-
Melikoff (page 15) indicates, Baselworld faces
a number of challenges, including restoring
exhibitor confidence in the show. Exhibitor
numbers have fallen by more than 50 per cent
– from 1,300 in 2017 to around 500 this year.
However, Loris-Melikoff is confident that the
show has turned the corner and it will move
towards being recognised as the premiere
jewellery event.
I hope he’s right, because, as I have previously
written, if you’ve never attended Baselworld,
I highly recommend you do.
Indeed, just like some religions, jewellers
should make a pilgrimage to the industry’s
Mecca at least once in their lifetime.
Baselworld was once a sight to behold and,
at the very least, it reminded you why this
industry is so awe-inspiring. A return to that is
much needed in these challenging times.
Coleby Nicholson
Managing Editor
November 2019 Jeweller 7

UPFRONT
BULLETIN BOARD
■ SWALLOW YOUR PRIDE
An American woman has accidentally
swallowed her 2.4-carat diamond
engagement ring – while fast asleep.
The 29 year old dreamt she was being
pursued by robbers so swallowed her
ring to prevent it from being stolen. She
woke up to fi nd the sparkler gone –
and an endoscopy confi rmed she had
indeed eaten it. Luckily, the ring was
recovered naturally!
■ ROYAL FLUSH
An 18-carat gold toilet has been stolen
from the UK’s Blenheim Palace. The
fully functional lavatory, valued at £1
million ($AU1.8 million), was part of an
exhibition by conceptual artist Maurizio
Cattelan. According to police, burglars
broke into the palace at night, two days
after the toilet was installed, and pulled
it directly from its housing.
■ SOFA, SO GOOD
Talk about buried treasure! A Canadian
woman has discovered a vintage Rolex
Daytona 6241 valued at $CAD250,000
($AU280,000) hidden inside her secondhand
couch, which she’d purchased for
$CAD25 ($AU28) at a charity store four
years earlier. She has listed the watch for
sale with an online dealer.
TOPAZ
NOVEMBER BIRTHSTONE:
DID YOU KNOW?
Topaz comes in a wide variety of colours,
from blue to yellow, orange, pink, purple
and brown, as well as colourless. However,
originally the term was used to describe green
gems. Because of its many hues, topaz has
frequently been mislabelled as quartz, yellow
sapphire, aquamarine, and more. The largest
faceted stone in the world is a topaz: the
31,000-carat El Dorado, found in Brazil in 1984.
DIGITAL
BRAINWAVE
WHO SAID?
“We observe that the popularity of
white gold jewellery can be cyclic,
sometimes trending for years – but
then popularity will wane for a period,
until the upwards trend repeats.”
To fi nd out who, turn to page 17 »
ALEXA ON YOUR FINGER
Amazon now offers jewellery equipped with its Alexa
voice assistant, best known for its use in smart home
devices. The Echo Loop ring retails for $US129.99
($AU193.09) and is made from black titanium and
stainless steel, available in sizes small, medium, large
and extra-large. The ring has speakers and a microphone installed, and connects to
the Alexa smartphone app via Bluetooth; wearers can press its ‘action button’ to ask
Alexa questions or give commands. The ring can also receive phone calls and vibrate
when notifi cations are received.
TOP PRODUCT
Bi-coloured sapphires of this quality are
uniquely Australian. They are increasingly
recognised and desired for their natural rarity
and because they cannot be synthesised. This
delightful 4.43-carat trapezoid baguette particolour
sapphire is from Coolamon Mining,
who in the course of their sapphire mining
operation are able to produce and supply
these exquisite central Queensland gems.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
jewellermagazine.com
Publisher & Editor
Coleby Nicholson
Associate Publisher
Angela Han
angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com
Assistant Editor
Arabella Roden
arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com
Accounts
Paul Blewitt
fi n a n c e @ g u n n a m a t t a m e d i a . c o m
Subscriptions
info@jewellermagazine.com
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8 Jeweller November 2019

NEWS
NEWS
Sydney diamond dealer faces court
Former diamond dealer Haroutioun ‘Harry’
Arakelian has appeared in a Sydney court
charged with 21 counts of larceny, relating
to $170,000 in missing diamonds.
Warrants for Arakelian’s arrest had been
active since 2002; it’s alleged he fled to New
Zealand after police began an investigation
into his business.
The 52-year-old allegedly received stones
valued at $170,000 on consignment but
they were neither returned nor paid for.
Before he could be charged, Arakelian
moved to New Zealand. Police then issued
the warrants in his absence before arresting
him in Sydney’s Wentworth Point last week.
According to Australian Government
records, Haroutioun Arakelian previously
traded under the business name Rubilit
Jeweller from July 2000.
His solicitor indicated he would enter a plea
of not guilty.
Arakelian was granted bail and his
case was scheduled to return to court
on 15 November.
New CEO for natural diamond body
After four years with the Diamond Producers
Association (DPA), CEO Jean-Marc Lieberherr
has announced he is stepping down at the
end of this year.
Lieberherr joined the DPA as chairman in
December 2015, and was named CEO three
years ago.
The seven largest diamond-producing
companies – De Beers, Alrosa, Rio Tinto,
Dominion Diamond, Gem Diamonds, Lucara
Diamond, Murowa Diamonds and Petra
Diamonds – formed the DPA in order to
jointly fund marketing and research projects
that support the natural diamond industry.
During his tenure, Lieberherr oversaw
major initiatives including; commissioning
the Trucost Total Clarity report into DPA
members’ environmental, economic and
social impacts, the Project Assure synthetic
diamond detector tests, and the ‘Real is Rare’
advertising campaign.
In a statement announcing his departure
from the organisation, Lieberherr said, “This
is an emotional moment for me after four
years of association with the DPA, but I am
proud of what has been achieved since
the DPA was created, and especially since it
HAROUTIOUN ARAKELIAN. IMAGE CREDIT: NINE
LEFT: DAVID KELLIE. RIGHT: JEAN-MARC LIEBERHERR
received increased funding from June 2017.
“The DPA now has strong teams and
foundations in place to capture the
opportunities that lie ahead and it is time
for a new leader to take the organisation
through its next phase of development.”
Lieberherr was previously general manager
of Rio Tinto Diamonds.
David Kellie will replace him as DPA CEO.
Kellie joins the DPA after two years as head
of US marketing for Watches of Switzerland;
previously, he held the title of corporate
senior vice president, global marketing and
advertising, at fashion house Ralph Lauren.
IN BRIEF
*
LES GEORGETTES CLOSES OFFICE
The Australian office of international
jewellery brand Les Georgettes By Altesse
is set to close. A source told Jeweller the
news was “unexpected”. All future stock
inquiries must be made through the head
office based in Paris, France.
*
LARGE BLUE FOUND AT CULLINAN
Petra Diamonds has unearthed an
“exceptional” gem-quality 20.08-carat
blue diamond at the famous Cullinan
Mine in South Africa. It will be tendered
in Johannesburg this month, with
industry analysts predicting an auction
price of $US10–15 million ($AU14.65–
21.97 million). The estimate is based
on prices received for the last two large
blue diamonds auctioned by Petra in
2013 and 2014.
*
OZ FACES DIAMOND-FREE FUTURE
Following an ASIC investigation, the
Federal Court of Australia has appointed
liquidators to Merlin Diamonds Ltd, which
owns one of Australia’s two operating
diamond mines. If the Merlin Diamond
Mine, located in the Northern Territory,
closes as a result of the liquidation,
Australia will be left with just one
diamond mine, Rio Tinto’s Argyle site,
which is scheduled to close in 2020.
*
LIGHTBOX ENTERS RETAIL
De Beers has announced its synthetic
diamond jewellery brand, Lightbox
Jewelry, will soon be available at US
retailers Bloomingdale’s and Reeds
Jewelers. Previously, the range was
only available to purchase through the
Lightbox website and retail ‘pop-up’s,
the most recent of which was held in
September in Miami, Florida.
*
OMEGA EMBRACES RESALE
Amid growing demand for second-hand
luxury watches, Swiss manufacturer
Omega has launched its own in-house
authentication service. Owners of
Omega watches that are more than
30 years old will be able to obtain an
official certificate of authenticity for a fee
of CHF800 ($AU1,186).
10 Jeweller November 2019

$1 million Argyle jewellery unveiled
Mining company Rio Tinto has publicly
revealed the ‘Argyle Dreaming’ jewellery set,
designed by Australian jeweller John Calleija.
The necklace and ring feature 673 pink, white,
yellow, blue and champagne diamonds from
the Argyle Mine in Western Australia, set in
gold mined from the Rio Tinto’s Kennecott
site in Utah, USA.
The pieces are valued at $US1.1 million
($AU1.63 million) and will be shown in
New York and London, before returning to
Australia where they will be displayed in
the Calleija stores.
Gold Coast-based Calleija called the project a
“labour of love” and said the Kimberley region
inspired his design. He added, “I am thrilled
with the Argyle Dreaming necklace and ring.
They are a permanent record of the most
intriguing diamonds in the world.”
The Argyle Mine is set to cease production in
2020, with this year’s Argyle Tender closing
last month. Arnaud Soirat, chief executive
copper and diamonds Rio Tinto, told Reuters
THE ARGYLE DREAMING NECKLACE AND RING.
IMAGE CREDIT: RIO TINTO
that two more Tenders could be held,
depending on the mine’s output.
Despite the mine coming to the end of its
life, Soirat confi rmed Rio Tinto would
maintain its other diamond investments,
based in Canada: a 60 per cent stake in the
Diavik Diamond Mine, and a joint venture
with Star Diamond Corp.
While yellow diamonds have been found at
Diavik, no pink diamonds have as yet been
unearthed there.
FEATURING THE
DELICATE PINK TONE OF
ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
Synthetics on agenda for Indian bourse?
Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) has hinted
that it may allow the trading of synthetic
diamonds, following another successful
edition of Bharat Diamond Week (BDW) on
14–16 October.
According to Indian media, the BDB will
consider lifting its long ban on lab-grown
diamonds after an all-trade body, the National
Diamond Monitoring Committee, releases its
upcoming report.
Mehul Shah, vice president of the BDB, said,
“BDB is not against lab-grown diamonds,
however we need to protect our members
and buyers coming to BDB so that they buy
genuine products.”
Shah explained that while synthetic and
natural diamonds have many similar
properties, as products they are “entirely
different”, pointing specifi cally to the lack of
re-sale value for synthetic diamonds.
“The BDB remains a centre for natural
diamonds and our 6,000 members deal
in natural diamonds only,” he added.
“There are approximately 100 who deal in
lab-grown diamonds in Mumbai. BDB has
power to penalise wrongdoers and has
taken actions [in the past] including
lifetime suspension.”
Meanwhile, the latest BDW had an
enthusiastic response from local and
international visitors.
Kevin Vantyghem, director of Canadabased
Vantyghem Diamonds, was a fi rst
time attendee at BDW and praised the
organisation and location of the event,
which was held within the Bharat Diamond
Bourse itself.
“The location was great,” Vantyghem said. “It
was easy to connect with the exhibitors and
they had their offices right there as well. This
was key when looking for the goods I needed
because it was all in one spot.
“There are so many offices and available
goods here that beat out many other
diamond bourse centres.”
While the cost of travelling to Mumbai was
high, Vantyghem said the contacts and deals
he established would produce short- and
long-term benefi ts for his business. “I will
defi nitely consider going back,” he added.
SAMS GROUP
AUSTRALIA
E pink@samsgroup.com.au
W samsgroup.com.au
P 02 9290 2199

NEWS
IN BRIEF
*
ALROSA DETECTOR PASSES TEST
The Alrosa Diamond Inspector has been
evaluated by the Diamond Producers’
Association’s Project Assure. The portable
machine tested 1,400 samples including
natural and synthetic diamonds as well
as diamond simulants. It referred 100 per
cent of lab-grown diamonds for further
testing and detected 100 per cent of
simulants. It can test 24 stones per hour
and be operated by a novice.
*
CIBJO RELEASES ETHICS REPORT
Ahead of the CIBJO Congress in Bahrain
this month, the organisation has released
a report entitled Weaving It All Together
written by CIBJO Ethics Commission
president Tiffany Stevens. It details the
current state of responsible jewellery
and gemstone handling, compliance
with international frameworks, advertising
and disclosure standards, environmental
and social impacts of the jewellery
industry and technology, and is available
to read online.
*
RECORD-BREAKING DIAMOND
The world’s largest ever D-colour polished
diamond has made its debut at the Dubai
Diamond Conference. The Constellation
1 weighs 313 carats and has been
confirmed as the largest D-colour graded
diamond on record at the GIA. It is one of
a collection of eight stones cut from the
813-carat Constellation rough, which was
purchased for $US63.1 million ($AU92.4
million) by Swiss jeweller de Grisogono
and Dubai’s Nemesis International
in 2016. Nemesis has indicated it will
display the eight Constellation stones in a
travelling roadshow.
*
PINK STONE WOWS HONG KONG
A ring featuring a 10.65-carat fancy
vivid purplish pink diamond sold for
$HK155.8 million ($AU29 million) at
Sotheby’s recent Magnificent Jewels
and Jadeite auction in Hong Kong.
The centre stone was set in 18-carat
white and rose gold, with trapeze white
diamond accents. It was the highestselling
lot at the event and made up half
the total sales amount.
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
Shake up for the Swiss trade shows
Both Baselworld and the Salon International
de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) have
announced major changes for the 2020
editions, which will be held back to back from
25 April to 5 May.
Firstly, Baselworld management has changed
the layout of Hall 1.0 for the 2020 event, in
order to make the show floor’s central zone
more affordable for exhibitors.
Each structure in this area – which has been
named the ‘community district’ – will house
two to three brands, private conference
rooms and customisable interiors.
The plan has already succeeded in wooing
back Maurice Lacroix, which quit the event in
2018 but will exhibit in 2020.
Next year’s Baselworld will also feature a
‘Luxury Venture Day’ to assist and inspire
luxury entrepreneurs.
Additionally, Baselworld management has
reached an agreement with the Basler
Hotelier-Verein (Basel Hotel Association) for
the creation of an ‘e-concierge’ service to
be hosted on the Baselworld website. The
service will allow hotels, flights, transfers and
excursions to be booked from one portal.
Meanwhile, SIHH has announced it will now
be known as Watches & Wonders Geneva, to
reflect its new mandate as both a trade and
consumer show.
The 2020 edition of the event – marking its
30th anniversary – will be open to the public
for all five days, instead of the one day it has
been open in the past. Richard Mille and
Audemars Piguet will not exhibit as a result of
the announcement.
And finally, both Baselworld and SIHH
management have confirmed that the dates
for the 2021 shows will be shifted three
weeks earlier, as the April-May timeslot has
proved unpopular with exhibitors.
Turn to page 15 for an interview with Baselworld
CEO Michel Loris-Melikoff.
Bangkok gemstone congress a success
This year’s International Colored Gemstone
Association (ICA) Congress, held in Bangkok
from 12–15 October, saw record attendance
numbers, with 370 delegates from 26
countries taking part.
The event included panel discussions and
presentations on responsible sourcing as well
as the challenges faced by artisanal miners,
who supply an estimated 80 per cent of the
coloured gemstones on the market.
Emerging technologies such as blockchain,
consumer trends, and marketing for retailers
were also addressed.
Notably, a new member status, ‘Accredited
Ethical Member’, was launched at the
Congress.
Santpal Sinchawla, ICA secretary and
chairman of the steering committee for
the Congress, said, “The 19th ICA Congress
attracted leading speakers in the coloured
BIG CHANGES ARE AFOOT IN BASEL AND GENEVA
gemstone industry from around the world,
including Sean Gilbertson, CEO of Gemfields
– our anchor sponsor – and top executives
from retailers Chow Tai Fook and Amazon,
among many others.”
Prida Tiasuwan, chairman of the Congress,
added, “We are delighted to have seen the
biggest ever participation by industry experts
from around the world at this year’s Congress
in Bangkok. The increasing diversity of the
organisation is reflected in the largest ever
presence of female delegates and speakers at
this year’s event.”
The ICA was founded in 1984 and currently
has more than 700 members representing
the jewellery supply chain from mine to
market, as well as academia, museums and
gemmological laboratories.
Its purpose is to develop consistent business
standards and improve the communication
and trade of coloured gemstones worldwide.
12 Jeweller November 2019

NEWS
Colour diamonds found in Botswana
Mining company Lucara has unearthed two
gem-quality fancy colour diamonds at its
Karowe mine in Botswana, including a pink
stone – something unusual for the country.
The new discoveries – a 9.74-carat blue and
the 4.13-carat pink – come a few months
after Lucara sold a 2.24-carat blue diamond
from the same site for $US347,222 per carat.
A 9.46-carat blue diamond, named the
Aven Blue, was sold for $US477,000 per
carat in 2012.
The Karowe mine is known for producing
exceptionally large white diamonds.
The second- and third-largest diamonds ever
recovered were mined there: the 1,758-carat
Sewelô diamond – unearthed in April this
year and characterised as being near-gem/
variable quality – and the 1,109-carat Lesedi
La Rona diamond, which was mined in 2015
and sold to British jewellers Graff for $US53
million two years later.
Australian-led blockchain platform
Everledger, a technology business founded
by Australian entrepreneur Leanne Kemp,
has upgraded its blockchain platform, which
is designed to ensure transparency in the
jewellery industry from mine to retailer.
The service uses blockchain to create a secure
record of where and by whom a diamond
or gemstone has been handled, helping to
create a clear supply chain that both retailers
and consumers can access.
“Everledger’s purpose is to contribute greater
clarity and confidence in the marketplaces
where increased transparency is essential,”
Kemp said in a statement, adding, “We’ve
pioneered this work for the diamond and
gemstone industry.”
The platform has already been embraced
by the Gemological Association of America,
Chow Tai Fook, the Singapore Diamond
Investment Exchange and ethical jewellery
company Brilliant Earth, as well as Indian
manufacturers Dharmanandan Diamonds
and Sheetal Group.
In the coloured gemstone category, Moyo
Gemstones and Gübelin Gem Lab recently
used Everledger’s technology for the
Provenance Proof initiative in Tanzania. The
THE BLUE AND PINK KAROWE DIAMONDS.
IMAGE CREDIT: LUCARA
Eira Thomas, CEO Lucara, said in a statement,
“Lucara is extremely pleased with the
recovery of these rare, sizeable, fancy
coloured diamonds, which have the
potential to contribute meaningful value to
our regular production of large, high value
Type IIa diamonds.”
In addition to Australia, Canada and
Botswana, pink diamonds have also
been found in Brazil, Russia, South Africa
and Tanzania.
EVERLEDGER HAS BEEN DEVELOPED FOR THE GEM
AND JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
pilot scheme is designed to protect artisanal
miners, from whom 80 per cent of the
world’s coloured gemstones are sourced,
from exploitation.
Earlier this year, Everledger helped create
the ‘first blockchain engagement ring’ with
London jewellers Taylor & Hart.
Shortly after the platform upgrade was
announced, Everledger closed a $US20
million Series A funding round, lead by
Chinese conglomerate Tencent.
James Mitchell, chief strategy officer Tencent,
said blockchain traceability was not only
appealing to consumers, but also reduced
risks for jewellery businesses.
Diamond leaders
conference held
in Dubai
International delegates gathered in Dubai
for the annual World Federation of Diamond
Bourses (WFDB) Presidents Meeting on
24-25 September.
As well as bringing together the WFDB and
representatives of the International Diamond
Manufacturers’ Association (IDMA), special
panel presentations were given on synthetic
diamonds and traceability in the natural
diamond supply chain.
Ernie Blom, president World Federation of
Diamond Bourses, said ahead of the event,
“The challenges that the industry is facing
from a number of directions are without
precedent. Our thousands of members
across the globe expect us, as their elected
leadership, to debate them and search for
solutions that can take us forward.”
Following on from the traceability panel,
Blom confirmed that the WFDB would be
contacting a shortlist of blockchain experts to
assist in implementing the technology.
At the Meeting, the Israel Diamond Exchange
launched the third video, ‘Natural diamond
one of a kind’, in its ongoing ‘We love
natural diamonds’ campaign. It will now
be disseminated by the 29 WFDB member
bourses around the world.
Another important announcement to come
out of the Presidents Meeting was that a
diamond bourse would be established in
Luanda, the capital city of Angola.
“The WFDB is ready to welcome a new
diamond bourse and we are happy that this is
being studied,” Blom said.
The African nation has diamond reserves
estimated at 180 million carats, giving Angola
the potential to become the world’s number
one diamond producing country.
THE RIBBON-CUTTING CEREMONY AT THE MEETING
November 2019 Jeweller 13

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New coloured stone designs from Worth & Douglas
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PINK
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An exquisite Art Decoinspired
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12 gorgeous Argyle pink
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THOMAS SABO
The small, sparkling celestial bodies
of this faceted cubic zirconia ring are
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help in fi nding the right path.
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GEORGINI
The Emilio Silver & Gold
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14 Jeweller November 2019

INTERVIEW
Back to basics:
Baselworld confronts home truths
WITH THE WORLD’S FOREMOST LUXURY TRADE SHOW IN THE MIDST OF A WELL-
PUBLICISED FALL FROM GRACE, COLEBY NICHOLSON CAUGHT-UP WITH BASELWORLD
CEO MICHEL LORIS-MELIKOFF IN MUMBAI TO DISCUSS HIS VISION FOR THE FUTURE
ichel Loris-Melikoff is not backwards in coming forwards. Indeed,
as managing director of Baselword, he wears his heart on his sleeve
when it comes to the problems facing the venerable watch and
jewellery show.
It’s a refreshing approach, although one wonders whether anyone could get away
with offering anything other than brutal honesty: make no bones about it, MCH
Group, Baselworld’s parent company, stuffed things up!
Loris-Melikoff says it’s his job “to make Baselworld attractive again”, but in truth –
to put a new twist on a well-known turn of phrase – he has to “make Baselworld
great again”. Once the world’s premiere watch and jewellery trade show – an aweinspiring,
must-attend event – Baselworld has fallen from grace, to the extent
that its exhibitor numbers have dropped from 1,300 in 2016 to between 500
and 600 this year.
There’s little doubt that the difficult economic conditions in the jewellery, diamond
and watch industries have contributed to Baselworld’s problems; however, much
of the pain has been self-infl icted, and Loris-Melikoff does not shy away from that.
He joined MCH Group in 2014 as director of third-party events and became
managing director of MCH Beaulieu Lausanne SA in 2015. As a result, he had an
internal view of the show’s problems.
“When the board of directors asked me to manage Baselworld, the fi rst question
I asked myself was: do I have enough passion for watches, jewellery and
gemstones? Well, when it came to watches I knew, but I had absolutely
no knowledge of jewellery and gemstones,” Loris-Melikoff reveals.
Despite that fact, he accepted the position and started on 1 July 2018. After one
week, he says, his outlook totally changed and he knew he had the passion for all
products that would be exhibited at the show.
His vision for how to turn the tide on Baselworld’s fortunes also began to take
shape. He recalls: “The fi rst time I met the Baselworld team, I asked them, ‘Who pays
your salary?’ Why did I ask that question? Well, [the answer is] it’s the exhibitors.
“Baselworld is supposed to be an ecosystem of the whole industry, which comes
together for different reasons. For some exhibitors it’s marketing, for others it’s
communications, or sales and networking. All companies have different reasons
why they exhibit.”
He explains that in the past, the prior management concentrated on the needs
of the big Geneva watch brands, but “when I started I knew we had to think
about a new vision”.
“My job is to improve the quality of Baselworld and if we do that correctly, then
the market will decide which show becomes strong and successful or not,” Loris-
Melikoff adds.
He acknowledges that in the past, everything was done for the benefi t of
Baselworld, and not for the exhibitors and visitors.
IDENTIFYING THE PROBLEMS
The cost to exhibit at Baselworld is not cheap, and many suppliers complained
about the unnecessary on-costs forced upon them by MCH management for
things that were not required. There was no escaping the expense.
One example was the requirement to advertise in the Baselworld Brand Book, a
whopping 5kg hardcover that few wanted and even less read. However, it was one
of many costs that exhibitors had to bear – even if there was no benefi t.
Loris-Melikoff acknowledged that the Brand Book was inappropriate, saying that
when he fi rst attend Baselworld after joining MCH in 2014, he was handed the
heavy book and didn’t know what to do with it.
November 2019 Jeweller 15

INTERVIEW
“This is the change of mindset and a personal issue to me: [previously] MCH
organised Baselworld and if you wanted to be part of the show, you had to accept
everything – take it or leave it. And when I started, my mindset was that we
organise a show because the industry needs a show,” Loris-Melikoff explains.
“The industry still needs an internal event where suppliers, retailers, journalists –
everyone in the eco-system – can meet one time per year. MCH is also part of the
eco-system so we need to create a platform from the industry for the industry. And
that’s been my motivation and that’s why I had 800 meetings between my first day
in the job to the closing press conference of this year’s show, to understand what
the needs are and what has to be changed to make this platform more successful.”
CHANGING PRIORITIES
Loris-Melikoff says he analysed the needs of everyone by creating some simple
spreadsheets for the different categories, from the watch brands to gem and
jewellery suppliers, retailers and even what he calls the ‘connectors’ – journalists
from traditional and digital media.
What he found was that not only are the needs different across each category, the
needs within each were not uniform: “The needs are different between the bigger
and smaller companies in the same category, but they are even different between
the big brands. Compare Rolex and LVMH; they have different needs to each other,
it’s a totally different approach.”
Identifying problems can be easy; rectifying them is not. And with the problems
being in place for so long, coupled with a world that is very different to five years
ago, let alone 10, what are Loris-Melikoff’s solutions and priorities?
“In the past, Baselworld was a B2B platform and now we need to be also B2C,
which, in our definition, is business-to-community. And in this community we
have retailers, the producers [manufacturers], the brands, journalists and finally the
consumer. But the main focus will remain B2B.”
He says that 60 per cent of business is still done with traditional retailers “and in
2020 we have to concentrate on the needs of the retailers”. A questionnaire was
issued to exhibitors in August to help create a long-term strategy which Loris-
Melikoff describes as “you spoke, we listened”.
The focus will be on an event that is one-third watches, one-third jewellery and
one-third diamonds and gemstones. Indeed, the gem sections will be relocated
to Hall 2, the three-storey building that remained closed this year.
Hall 2 will also include a new area called Innovation Square, which management
describes as ‘a space for innovation and digital transformation’. Here, Baselworld’s
first section devoted to smartwatches and wearable devices will be located. The
gemstones section will move to the first floor while the national pavilions will fill
the ground floor.
The Incubator concept for start-ups and other smaller, lesser-known brands –
which debuted this year in the watch section – will be expanded in future shows
to the jewellery and gemstone areas.
Exhibition Square, the very busy large area outside the entrances to Halls 1 and 2,
will be ‘completely redesigned and interactive’ in time for 2020, and will include
an event area.
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
As previously reported by Jeweller, the layout of Hall 1.0 will also change for
the 2020 event, in order to make the show floor’s central zone more affordable
for exhibitors.
Businesses will not have to construct their own expensive multi-level booths, as
they have in the past. Instead, each structure in this area – which has been named
the ‘community district’ – will house two to three brands, private conference rooms
and customisable interiors.
The plan has already succeeded in wooing back Maurice Lacroix, which quit the
event in 2018 but will exhibit in 2020. And perhaps the most important change of
all is that the cost of exhibition space will drop across the board.
There’s no doubt that the high cost of exhibiting at Baselworld is a major reason for
the exodus of 800–900 exhibitors over the past three years, and Loris-Melikoff has
vowed “to reduce all costs that are in our power to reduce”.
He points to statistics that show that floor (square metre) space represents about
15 per cent of overall costs, with booth construction at around 55 per cent. The
rest is made up of travel, hotels, marketing, staffing, entertainment and hospitality.
MCH Group has listed other improvements needed to get Baselworld back to its
former glory, however Loris-Melikoff stipulates, “Everyone would understand that
we are not able to make all changes in one year. It’s simply not possible. In 2020,
we will concentrate on three to four main changes.”
Can he pull it off? Well, a cynic would suggest Baselworld’s fortunes couldn’t go
much lower, so the only way is up. If the proof of the pudding is in the eating, then
perhaps one important measure will be whether the behemoth Swatch Group
likes the changes and eventually rejoins the show.
Understandably, Loris-Melikoff is tired of questions about Swatch Group and says
only its CEO Nick Hayek Jr can decide that outcome – but he believes that if he
achieves his aims, it is highly possible.
With Loris-Melikoff at the helm it appears the ship has changed course; the only
question now: is it is headed home in the right direction?
Only time will tell, but it looks like it’s ready for more passengers! i
16 Jeweller November 2019

WHITE METALS
Look
ON THE
white
side
PETER W BECK
ARABELLA RODEN EXPLORES HOW
GLOBAL MARKETS AND CONSUMER
TRENDS HAVE IMPACTED THE
DIVERSE AND COMPLEX CATEGORY
OF WHITE METALS
hite metal is one of the broadest categories in the jewellery
market, comprising everything from the most precious and
expensive – palladium, platinum and white gold – to affordable
silver and stainless steel.
Because of their varied characteristics and prices, white metals are critical to a
jeweller’s success and can be used across the spectrum of jewellery products.
From engagement and bridal to everyday wear, white metals offer the ability to
cater to every customer’s budget and desired aesthetic.
Creating elaborate and unique pieces for the top end of the market, jeweller
Paul Amey says, “I personally have been a fan of white metal in creating two-tone
articles; it adds colour, depth and definition to my work and it greatly enhances
the beauty of the stones and pearls and other exotic materials I endeavour to use
whenever possible.”
Amey won the Precious Metal Award at this year’s Jewellery Design Awards with
Pink Mist, a bejewelled pen that shows the stunning potential of white metal by
using platinum to complement 18-carat yellow gold, pink and white diamonds,
and Keshi pearls.
At the other end of the market, consumers and jewellers alike are becoming more
enamoured with silver amid soaring gold prices, which recently reached a fiveyear
high of $US1,546.10 ($AU2,266.65) per ounce in September.
“Silver is a big category for us,” Pallion operations manager Chris Botha says. “It’s
a significant part of our casting cycle and it does seem to be growing, which is
November 2019 Jeweller 17

elated to the gold price. More people are now producing silver goods
as gold goods have gone up significantly over the last year.”
The high gold price is in contrast to the falling price of platinum, which
presents another opportunity for jewellers.
MOVEMENTS IN THE MARKET
Having perhaps the most significant impact on white metals are
commodity prices. In particular, the price of palladium – a key agent
in creating white gold, aside from nickel – increased by more than 85
per cent between August 2018 and March 2019, from $US837.20 to
$US1,560.40 per ounce.
According to Forbes, palladium has been the best performing
commodity for the past two years and its price per ounce overtook
gold in January of this year for the first time since 2001.
Such inflation is generally accepted to be because of restricted supply
– three-quarters of all palladium is sourced from mines in just two
countries, South Africa and Russia.
There is also high demand for the metal in the automotive sector
where palladium is a key component the manufacture of catalytic
converters, which capture pollutants from engine exhaust fumes. As
global emissions regulations tighten, more palladium is required.
Morris & Watson operations manager Grant George says, “With the
price of palladium so high, a lot of customers are more conscious
THE FIVE-YEAR PRICE MOVEMENTS OF PALLADIUM. SOURCE: MARKET TRENDS
FIVE-YEAR PRICE MOVEMENT COMPARISON OF GOLD (ORANGE) AND
PLATINUM (BLUE). SOURCE: MARKET TRENDS

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CASTINGS • MOULD-MAKING
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PETER W BECK
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of the price of white gold that has been
whitened with palladium.”
Meanwhile, the high price of gold has been
attributed to macroeconomic forces, namely
global market and political instability, which
make the metal attractive to investors as a
store of value.
For the jewellery industry, manufacturers and
designers must consider whether shoppers
will accept the higher price for white gold
or embrace alternative white metals, even
turning to cheaper alloys.
Rapid Casting’s Ben Farago believes
customers are seeking alternatives.
“Over the last year we have seen a dramatic
increase in the price of gold and palladium
while the price of platinum has stayed fairly
steady, if not dropped off a bit. Customers are
turning to platinum more often.”
Platinum has also been in higher demand
at Pallion.
“Gold has crept up over $US1,500 [per
ounce],18-carat white gold is 75 per cent fi ne
gold and 75 per cent of $US1,500 is $US1,125,”
Botha explains.
“With platinum, you can buy a 95-percent-pure
metal for a cheaper price –
approximately $US900 [per ounce] – so you
can get a whiter metal that doesn’t need
rhodium plating for a similar or even lower
price than 18-carat white gold, which is an
alloy and does need rhodium plating.”
Yet George notes that white gold remains
king in some sectors of the jewellery market.
“Our premium 18-carat white gold, which
contains a very high level of palladium and
lower level of platinum, is still very popular for
the high-end jewellers where the price is of
little consequence,” George says.
“In fact, it’s over 35 per cent higher than our
platinum price, whereas a couple of years ago
this trend would have been reversed. This
alloy is very niche since it cannot be cast and
only used for the handmade pieces.”
Chemgold director Larry Sher says
that 18-carat white gold is still his business’
“most popular premium white metal”.
Chemgold now offers three white gold
alloys – one with 15 per cent palladium,
one with 13.2 per cent and another with 10
per cent, to give jewellers options based on
their individual requirements and taking into
account the current high price of fi ne gold
and palladium.
Steven Gades, production manager Pure
Casting, has noticed increases in demand
for platinum and its 18-carat White Gold
Premium alloy and 14-carat white gold.
Meanwhile, Peter Beck, managing director
Peter W Beck, notes that the demand for
white gold seems to be dependent on
fashion trends – in contrast to perennial
favourite yellow gold.
“We observe that the popularity of white
gold jewellery can be cyclic, sometimes
trending for years – but then popularity
will signifi cantly wane for a period until the
upward trend repeats,” he says.
“Some jewellery buyers will also select white
gold because the cool-toned colour may
blend better with their complexion than

M A K E T H E
WHITE CHOICE
warm yellow or rose gold.”
Some jewellers choose gold that is
whitened solely with nickel but this
presents another potential pitfall.
George points out that white gold
jewellery without palladium will cost less;
however, the metal will not have the same
strength as a palladium alloy.
The presence of nickel can also cause allergic reactions.
“The Holy Grail in alloy research is to fi nd a cheaper
non-toxic substitute for palladium as a whitener agent for white gold
alloys,” George says.
Sher advises jewellers to be mindful of the palladium content within
certain 18-carat white gold alloys, noting that those with extremely
low palladium content may result in an alloy that is not as white as
their customer expected or not have the metal characteristics the
jeweller requires.
“Chemgold is 100 per cent transparent with the key fi ne metals that
are contained in our alloys,” he says.
Amey recalls that nickel-based white gold alloys were once
the industry standard but this presented many challenges for
manufacturing jewellers.
“They were extremely difficult to use and the colour was less than
satisfactory. White gold turns yellowish after the rhodium wears off,
ARTISAN BESPOKE
JEWELLERS, COURTESY
MORRIS & WATSON
PALLADIUM | PLATINUM | SILVER
TITANIUM | WHITE GOLD | ZIRCONIUM
PAUL AMEY
WORTH & DOUGLAS
PO Box 866, Tullamarine, VIC 3043
(03) 9338 0091 / 1800 006 388
sales@worthdouglas.com.au
worthdouglas.com

CHEMGOLD
RAPID CASTING
greatly disappointing clients who don’t like leaving their rings for the
time it takes to re-plate them – especially engagement rings,” he says.
“With the fashion trend of white gold engagement rings re-emerging
after a near 30-year absence, these problems have also re-emerged.”
Beck adds that white gold was seen as the cheaper competitor for
platinum when it entered the industry in the 1960s. Its lower price,
fi xed to the Gold Standard, led to a boom in consumer demand.
Today, platinum prices are “around 40 per cent less than gold,” Beck
explains, leading to an increase in popularity for that reason.
PLATINUM POTENTIAL
Meanwhile, aside from its comparatively low price, platinum offers
several signifi cant benefi ts for manufacturing jewellers.
“In recent times platinum has become my preferred white metal; its
exceptional working, fi nish and colour offers my clients an outstanding
result and excellent value for money in the long term,” Amey says. “It
eliminates a huge amount of maintenance and the wear-and-tear
factor is far superior [to white gold].”
Amey does admit that platinum “has its difficulties”, particularly due to
its high melting point. Overall, the metal “requires a great deal more
skill and artistry than gold”.
To eliminate some of the difficulties in working with platinum,
Chemgold has introduced a new alloy – PlatinumG – which Sher
says has “outstanding workability, brilliant white colour and a higher
precious metal content” that makes it ideal for soldering and welding
and easier for setting.
by
Gades points to Pure Casting’s new 950 platinum alloy PlatinumOro,
which he says has a Vickers hardness of 160.
From a casting perspective, George says both platinum and palladium
alloys present challenges.
“With casting, due to the high temperatures involved, specialised
investment and casting technologies are required. The casting trees
are smaller and often the cast pieces require sprue adjustment and
placement in order to achieve the optimum result,” he explains.
Proudly distributed by
“The higher cast charges deal with the inefficiencies and extra time
to produce the perfect platinum/palladium casting. Although the
white gold casting temperatures can be substantially higher than the
yellow gold, the process and technologies are identical.”
Botha, too, points out the added expense of platinum casting: “You use
more expensive powders, more expensive casting equipment and the
02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au

WHITE METALS
volume of tree material is a lot higher when you’re casting platinum. All that said,
it’s still competitive with 18-carat white gold.”
At Pure Casting, an Envision Tec Resin Printer is used to cast platinum and other
metals. “Envision Tec resin printers are still considered market leaders in resin
printers for print quality and castability,” Gades explains.
When it comes to refi ning, George says further purifi cation steps are required in
order to get consistent results, making the process longer and more expensive:
“Due to the metallurgical nature and longer refi ning cycles for the platinum and
palladium, the stock turnover is always slower and requires more skill, experience
and different technologies than gold and silver refi ning.”
Chemgold director Darren Sher reveals, “We are seeing an increase in the number
of customers who request we XRF [x-ray fl uorescence analysis] their white gold to
ensure the palladium content is as expected and on occasion have found it not to
be the case.”
In addition, both Darren Sher and George recommend jewellers keep different
scrap and lemel separate – white gold, yellow gold and platinum – and to keep
a record of the percentage of platinum or palladium in order to streamline the
process and avoid extra charges.
STABLE STEEL AND SILVER
While the top end of the category has been sensitive to macroeconomic trends,
silver and stainless steel have seen stable prices and steady demand.
ELLANI COLLECTIONS
STONES & SILVER
This affordability makes these metals popular with retailers and consumers alike.
Ellani Collections offers a large selection of silver and ion-plated steel jewellery.
Managing director Paul Hicks says, “Using silver as the base metal as opposed to
gold allows the price points to be in line with what consumers are prepared to pay,
while larger, heavier designs are done in the steel to keep the price points down.
“Meeting the consumer with a design at a price point that they are prepared to
pay is the key to achieving a lot of turnover,” he continues. “Retailers that do the fast
seller reports see very good stock turn.”
Hicks adds that consumers have become far more aware and accepting of steel
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jewellery in recent years and increased
demand is refl ected in sales.
Cheryle Roberts, managing director Stones
& Silver, points out that while price is a
signifi cant factor in the demand for sterling
silver jewellery, it’s not the only benefi t;
consumers are also attracted to the aesthetic
qualities and versatility of the metal.
“Silver has a bright-white lustrous hue and has
been valued as a precious metal since ancient
times. The main benefi t is that it is highly
fashionable and loved by all ages; it mixes
well with beautiful coloured gemstones to
create unique pieces,” she says.
Indeed, fashion jewellery is a category in
which sterling silver and stainless steel
naturally shine.
The low cost of production means that
retailers can develop a more diverse offering
and take advantage of fl eeting trends.
“Retailers that stock a good selection of silver
and steel jewellery are able to stock current,
on-trend designs without a large expense,”
Hicks says.
He notes that this type of jewellery often
attracts younger consumers with more
disposable income, which opens the door to
an ongoing retail relationship.
“That consumer often matures and gets
engaged, has anniversaries and special
occasions that require more expensive
jewellery to mark these sentimental
milestones in their life and return to the
retailer where they have developed a rapport.”
Roberts notes that sterling silver jewellery is
not limited to the fashion category and can
become a treasured piece on its own merits.
She reveals that Stones & Silver uses
German-manufactured 93.5 per cent pure
silver in its chain designs – 1 per cent more
than standard sterling silver – as well as
undergoing extra processing to give it a highshine,
non-tarnish fi nish and extra durability.
“With so much non-sterling silver on the
market today, it is important for retailers to
highlight and market their sterling silver
jewellery,” Roberts adds.
Several different alloys have been developed
to overcome the metal’s challenges – tarnish
and fi re-staining, also known as fi rescale
– without losing what Amey calls “that
magnifi cent silver white”.
At Pallion, Botha says there are two main silver
alloys used in casting: one using germanium
and the other copper. “[Germanium-based
silvers] have less issues with fi rescale.
“Normal 92.5 per cent silvers with copper are
traditional silvers, but there are various alloys
available. I’d say on a purely weight basis of
what we cast, it’s an even spread between the
copper-based and germanium-based silvers.”
Pure Casting’s Anti-Tarnish Silver (ATS) “has
been a success” according to Gades, who
adds that a new Anti-Tarnish alloy, Brite Silver,
is currently in development. “Brite Silver is
brighter in colour and longer lasting, as well
as being slightly harder than standard sterling
silver,” he explains.
Meanwhile, Darren Sher notes that demand
for Chemgold’s AGPD alloy – sterling silver
with palladium – has been increasing. AGPD
offers several advantages, according to Sher,
who says it is high-strength, tarnish-resistant
and fi re-stain free: “AGPD is fantastic for bench
work and allows for a better fi nish that will
last longer.”
Indeed, marrying the most expensive of
white metals with one of the cheapest sums
up the incredible diversity and potential of
the category itself. Today, jewellers have more
choice than ever with metals and alloys to
suit their every need. i
E orders@samsgroup.com.au
W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

FASHION JEWELLERY
Quick, smart:
fast-moving
fashion jewellery
GONE ARE THE DAYS OF CLEAR
DIVISION BETWEEN FINE JEWELLERY
AND COSTUME JEWELLERY – TODAY,
THE DYNAMIC CATEGORY OF
FASHION JEWELLERY REFLECTS
HOW CONSUMERS WANT TO SHOP,
ARABELLA RODEN REPORTS
COEUR DE LION
n the past, jewellery could be neatly divided into two categories:
costume jewellery and fi ne jewellery. The latter featured
synthetic or simulant gems and diamonds set in base or plated
metals, while the former combined solid, premium metals with
mined, precious gemstones.
Jump forward and the evolution of jewellery techniques has altered the
market signifi cantly, as have the rapidly changing tastes, budgets and buying
habits of consumers.
Enter fashion jewellery.
Like fashion apparel, fashion jewellery is fast moving and trend-led. It is not
so much defi ned by the materials used in its manufacture but rather by the
reason it is bought.
Primarily, consumers purchase fashion jewellery to accessorise an outfi t,
refl ect their personal identity and sense of style, emulate fashionable
celebrities and social media personalities, and stay ‘on trend’ with peers.
Unlike fi ne jewellery, consumers do not invest a large amount of time or
money in the purchase; the most important factors here are aesthetic appeal,
relevance to current fashions and styles, and how much a piece refl ects the
buyer’s own tastes and emotions.
“Nowadays there are so many customers looking for something different and
more affordable with the opportunity to change their jewellery more often
and select items to match certain outfi ts and events,” explains Rachael Abbott,
manager of marketing and merchandise planning at Timesupply, which
distributes Nomination, Coeur de Lion and Dansk Smykkekunst.
“Although there will always be a place for traditional jewellery, our branded
jewellery offers unique designs at price points that appeal to a wide audience.”
Indeed, the fashion jewellery category cannot be explored without referring
to one of its distinct advantages: price.
Current economic conditions of stagnant wage growth, soaring house
prices and the ongoing drought in NSW and Queensland have placed
signifi cant downward pressure on discretionary spending, leading to fl at
retail conditions.
According to the latest Retail Forecasts report by Deloitte Access Economics,
published in September, the annual rate of sales growth has steadily declined
November 2019 Jeweller 25

FASHION JEWELLERY
THOMAS SABO
STOW LOCKETS
FABULEUX VOUS
since the beginning of 2018, and FY18-19 recorded the weakest result since the early
1990s. At the same time, the report found that retail inflation is increasing at the
fastest rate in a decade, meaning overall prices are higher.
Fashion jewellery generally retails below $100 and rarely above $500, making it
attractive to consumers with a limited budget.
“Fashion jewellery is generally well-priced so if you get the mix right it is highly
transactional – fast in and fast out,” Helen Thompson-Carter, director Fabuleux
Vous, says.
Yet the category defies being defined simply on price.
A standard $89 bracelet from Pandora Jewellery can hold between 17 and 22
charms. Most charms are priced between $50 and $99, making the total value of
a complete bracelet between $939 and $2,267; however, single charms are added
over time, dividing the overall cost into manageable increments.
Stow Lockets offers a similarly broad range, from its 15mm classic locket in
sterling silver that retails at $NZ155 ($AU143.83) to a 28mm gold locket retailing at
$NZ1,375 ($AU1,275.70). Its charms and earrings are generally priced below $NZ100
($AU92.80).
Louise Laing, founder Stow Lockets and Evolve Inspired Jewellery, explains, “If you
want customers to return, you need to offer quality fashion jewellery pieces that
customers still consider precious keepsakes.”
Indeed, success in the fashion jewellery category is less about price and more about
developing a deep connection with and understanding of one’s customers – why
they shop, what they find appealing and how they buy.
As well as its quick turnover, versatility and affordability, fashion jewellery offers
several other key benefits to retailers.
A CONSTANT EVOLUTION
Part of the appeal of fashion jewellery is its ever-changing nature. Curious
and trend-orientated consumers from all demographics are drawn to
new collections.
This gives retailers an opportunity to regularly refresh their merchandising and
marketing both in-store and online to attract shoppers.
“Fashion jewellery brings consumers into the store as they want to see what’s the
‘latest and greatest’,” Thompson-Carter explains. “Stores that carry a great range of
fashion jewellery can also gain a reputation for being on trend and having the latest
thing, and that’s very important in our industry.”
Abbott agrees, advising retailers who stock fashion jewellery to “keep their range
fresh, changing their display campaign regularly, altering stock layout and
adding new collections to keep regular customers interested”.
“Our ranges release new collections twice yearly to keep the brands up to date,
in new fashion colours or styles,” she adds.
Kagi’s Nick Hoogwerf believes rapidly-shifting trends keep the segment fun.
“Fashion jewellery is such a popular category because it is ever changing; it will
keep exciting both customers and sales staff,” he says.
“It’s a must for retailers to carry range of products that can be sold to any
customer within the first five minutes of walking in. Not all customers who visit
your store are looking to invest in fine jewellery and fashion jewellery enables
you to make a sale.”
Hoogwerf continues: “Retailers benefit from a much higher stockturn than
with fine jewellery and this ultimately means your store’s overall sales are more
regular and sustainable.”
The category also has the ability to inspire loyalty and repeat sales, not only
through more affordable pricing but also through a key consumer trend:
customisable and personalised jewellery.
This has been a crucial element in Pandora Jewellery’s repositioning strategy,
known as ProgrammeNOW. The international jewellery company has
specifically sought to re-emphasise the ‘collectability’ and customisable nature
of its jewellery offering, centred on charms – returning to the cornerstone of its
early success.
Pandora’s new marketing material focuses on the concept of expressing
personal interests, as well as the ability to personalise the way charms are worn
on different base pieces such as brooches and pendant necklaces, as well as the
classic bracelet.
In another indication of the personalisation trend, Laing says engraving is
making a “real resurgence”. Indeed, she stresses that ‘meaningful’ pieces are still
extremely popular: “Jewellery that tells a story and emotionally connects with
the customer is where we have made our mark and continue to do so with
both Stow Lockets and Evolve Inspired Jewellery.”
While branded jewellery takes up a large proportion of the fashion jewellery
category, the products offered are far from generic. “Customers love something
new and love to accessorise by wearing unique pieces,” Laing explains.
Originality comes from the combinations consumers can make with their
fashion jewellery.
Nomination’s Composable links were recently relaunched with a bold new

NOMINATION
marketing campaign focusing on their personalised designs,
representing friends, love, animals, travel and family as well as hobbies
and passions.
“With personalised jewellery such as Nomination there are so many
reasons for customers to return to purchase new links – a new baby,
graduation, marriage, pet, travel, a significant birthday, the list is
endless,” Abbott explains. “This type of jewellery brand is brilliant for
encouraging repeat business.”
Hoogwerf says the ability to mix and match different designs from
different collections across the fashion jewellery category has proved
very popular with consumers.
“Fashion jewellery is affordable and accessible to all. Customers are
able to build up a sizeable collection of Kagi and other brands and
find enjoyment from layering and creating new looks from jewellery
purchased over a number of years,” he says. “This is beneficial not just
for the customer but also for the retailer too.”
Abbott agrees that constantly changing fashion trends offer retailers
What trends have you noticed
in fashion jewellery?
“Composable personalised jewellery and colour. And
yellow gold is making a comeback.” – RACHAEL ABBOTT,
TIMESUPPLY
New collection “Gold Digger”
available now
“We have seen a shift from clip on, oversized pendants on
necklaces to a significant focus on big, bold statement earrings.”
– HELEN THOMPSON-CARTER, FABULEUX VOUS
“Customisable, personalised jewellery is trending and
engraving has made a real resurgence. Rose gold and silver
have been strong but now we are seeing a shift towards yellow
gold.”
– LOUISE LAING, STOW LOCKETS AND EVOLVE
INSPIRED JEWELLERY
“Statement earrings in bold and bright hues, the layering
of multiple necklaces and bracelets together, and also the
continuation of the past year’s trend for clean, simple designs.”
– NICK HOOGWERF, KAGI
Proudly distributed by
02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au

ENGELSRUFER
DANSK SMYKKEKUNST
EVOLVE INSPIRED JEWELLERY
ANIA HAIE
Stow Lockets allows women to
express their memories, dreams and
accomplishments. Each locket can be
stylised by adding meaningful charms,
creating a personalised jewellery piece.
sales@stowlockets.co.nz
+64 7 281 1509
stowlockets
#preciousstories
stowlockets.com
Exclusive to fine jewellery stores in
Australia and New Zealand.
the ability to sell multiple pieces across
collections.
MASTERING THE MARKETING
There’s always something new in the fashion
jewellery category, which makes it a natural
partner for social media. Digital channels can
be used to communicate the latest trends as
well as the products on offer in an engaging,
visual and ‘always-on’ way.
According to data from Roy Morgan, Instagram
is the most popular social media channel
for Australian Millennials and Gen Z, while
Facebook is used by four in fi ve people in all
four main demographics: Gen Z, Millennial,
Gen X and Baby Boomer.
Pinterest, meanwhile, offers the most
shopping-engaged user base – split evenly
over Millennials, Gen X and Baby Boomers.
Worldwide, it is the number-one driver of
website traffic among all social media apps.
In designing a marketing strategy for fashion
jewellery, Thompson-Carter advises retailers
to “invest time in keeping up to date with
what is on trend and then communicate
that using your digital channels and social
media. Let customers know you have the
latest and greatest.”
She adds, “While the price needs to be
perceived as fair and reasonable, there’s a
school of thought that many consumers
are more focused on the ‘look’ and being
on-trend versus price – that’s especially
true for Millennials.”
Meanwhile, Laing emphasises the benefi ts of
stocking branded fashion jewellery. Indeed,
jewellery brands with their own strong social
media strategy can help retailers to crosspromote
product through hashtags and
provide material like high-quality images.
When it comes to international brands,
Abbott says social media marketing plays a
critical role in making consumers aware that
these products are available in Australia and
New Zealand.
“All of our brands carry European heritage,
whether it is German, Danish or Italian, and
all are well known and successful in not only
Europe but also in the UK, USA and Asia,” she
explains. “These are brands that have integrity
and signifi cant credentials and have stood the
test of time.”
Ultimately, it’s important to communicate to
consumers – and jewellery retailers – that the
fashion category is not disposable.
Instead, it offers the best of both worlds: pieces
that are highly-wearable and on-trend yet
long-lasting at an affordable price point that is
accessible to all. i

INCLUSIVE RETAIL
Promoting accessibility
and inclusion for all
THE BENEFITS FOR BUSINESSES THAT CATER TO CUSTOMERS WITH DISABILITIES ARE
NUMEROUS. RHONDA GALLAGHER EXPLORES THE SIMPLE PROCESSES RETAILERS
CAN INITIATE TO ADDRESS THE DIFFERENT NEEDS OF ALL SHOPPERS
t is reported that more than four million people in Australia live with
a disability and, collectively, they have more than $50 million to spend
each year so it makes good business sense to ensure your store is
accessible and inclusive.
Disappointingly, one in three customers with a disability have walked away from
using a business’s goods or services in the last 12 months when they felt the
business wasn’t interested in accommodating their needs or didn’t value and
respect them.
Crucially, this type of customer is also twice as likely as others to discourage
friends, family and carers from using a particular business. They’re also twice as
likely to recommend businesses that do value them.
Members of staff can often feel awkward or at a loss as to how to approach and
interact with these customers. For example, they may not know that it is polite
to make eye contact with and speak to a deaf customer directly, rather than to
their sign-language interpreter.
This can result in customers becoming frustrated or feeling disrespected,
resulting in the sale being lost and the chances of repeat business disappearing.
But creating a retail environment that serves customers with a disability is more
than just a tool for increasing revenue; it’s an important part of driving change in
the wider community by encouraging business owners and managers to think
and act with purpose.
Some of you will know me from my many years in the jewellery industry. Some
of you will even be aware I am now basically deaf, while others will be surprised
to learn of it. Those that were (blessedly) a part of my cochlear implant journey
will have even phoned me on occasion to be greeted with, “Hang on while I put
my ears on.”
Was I born this way? No.
Am I a different person? No.
Do I do some things differently now? Yes.
If you or a loved one woke up with a disability tomorrow, you, or they, would
face a life filled with extra challenges. Would your business and its culture be one
of those challenges?
One in four people – that’s customers, colleagues and staff – have a disability
and we need them to notice and talk about our businesses for the right reasons.
‘Accessibility’ and ‘inclusion’ are more than buzzwords; they are terms that
represent awareness and attitude and when these two are in place, we are
getting it right.
November 2019 Jeweller 29

INCLUSIVE RETAIL
DISABILITY DEFINED
Understanding disability is key to overcoming some of the fear and uncertainty
when dealing with this customer group.
Disability can originate in different ways; it can be congenital (from birth) or it
may be caused by illness, accident, or age. There are many different types of
disability – physical, cognitive, intellectual, sensory, visual and auditory. Some
people have more than one.
Disability can take many different forms; it may affect the way a person moves or
communicates, the way they think, how they speak, hear or see. Disability may
be visible or it may be hidden. It also may be permanent or temporary.
Nothing we do, no assistive technology or intervention, will ever take away all
the obstacles that living with a disability presents; however, there are some very
simple things we can do that make a difference:
Relax – many people worry about saying and doing the wrong thing and this
leads to uneasiness or even avoidance of the disabled person. The result is that
the customer feels excluded.
Treat each person as an individual – show disabled customers the same
respect and courtesy as you do everyone else. It’s also okay to use words
like walking, running, seeing, looking or hearing in context. If you feel you’ve
embarrassed them, simply apologise; if their overall feeling is one of respect,
they will see the lighter side.
Don’t assume – ask if you’re unsure about something. Speak directly to the
customer even if they have an interpreter or carer with them. By the same token,
give change and receipts to the customer and not to their companion/carer.
Be considerate – it may take some customers extra time to do or say certain
things. Don’t rush the customer and don’t finish their sentences for them. Always
be prepared to interact with assistive technologies and try to avoid asking
personal questions about their disability unless they mention it.
CONSIDERING MOBILITY ISSUES
When it comes to serving customers with restricted mobility, there are a few
simple points of which to be mindful.
Firstly, place goods within reach. Ideally, you would serve these customers at a
desk rather than a high counter. Use a tray when offering items to people with
restricted mobility, which enables them to take and handle the item in the
easiest way for them. This is good practice anyway as it guards against damage if
an item is dropped.
Offer customers a seat if it’s needed and be mindful of boxes, displays and other
obstacles that may obstruct the customer’s path within the shop.
SERVING THE VISION-IMPAIRED
If a customer with a vision-based disability wants you to guide them, offer your
elbow and walk slightly in front of them, highlighting the layout as you go. Let
them feel and touch the pieces, and describe each one to them, including the
colour. Jewellery that is tactile is often more interesting for these customers.
Serving a vision-impaired customer is also a great opportunity to take advantage
of technology. Most smart phones and tablets come equipped with assistive
technology that will read Word and PDF documents aloud. Receipts, quotes and
product details can be provided in this way.
Finally, remember that they can’t see you pointing at items and, perhaps more
importantly, never walk away without telling them you’re leaving!
HELPING THE HEARING-IMPAIRED
The first thing to note, when assisting a deaf or hearing-impaired customer, is
peripheral sound. Ensure all background noise, such as music or sounds from the
workshop, is turned down or off.
Don’t stand in front of a window or bright light as this creates a shadow and makes
it hard for them to lip read. Similarly, look directly at them and don’t cover your
mouth, chew gum or turn away when you talk.
Speak clearly, at a normal speed and with good volume but avoid shouting.
If they are using a sign-language interpreter, focus on and talk to the customer, not
the interpreter. Be prepared to use another way of communicating – again they
may use assistive technology.
When calling to follow up on an order, you can use the National Relay Service
(NRS); it enables you to make calls to people who are deaf, hard of hearing or have
a speech impediment.
INCLUSIVE DESIGN
Even if you can’t make your premises physically accessible to everyone, there are
many simple and cost-effective alterations that can make your store inclusive and
appealing to all:
• If you have a step outside your retail space, look into the portable and
collapsible ramp options that are available on the market. They will make your
store appealing to wheelchair users and mobility-restricted customers.
• Think about your doorway. If you have a controlled entrance to your jewellery
store, is the button at a suitable height for people using wheelchairs?
• Keep entrances free of clutter and ensure shop layouts enable a clear pathway.
• Have a low counter area with space underneath for a wheelchair.
• EFTPOS machines should be cordless with tactile buttons.
• A portable or accessible mirror can come in handy.
• Ensure the workshop can be closed off to minimise background noise.
• Have an open dialogue with your staff. You will be surprised how many stories
come out, both positive and negative, about their experiences with disabled
customers. Find out what has been done right and expand on those practices.
Use the bad examples to improve service.
• One jewellery company in Australia ran a disability-awareness presentation at
its national conference and has now included this as part of its staff-induction
program. This should be the industry norm, rather than exceptional. Forced into
disability awareness, my own team in Melbourne rose to the challenge – not just
with me but also with all of our customers. We benefited from an extra level of
satisfaction and rapport with the customers who really appreciated the effort.
There will be times when things go wrong, when you are unsure of what to do
and what to say. There is no one tool to cover each situation; however, there is one
with which we are all equipped: it’s our attitude and we need to use it wisely.
The right attitude says, “You are welcome”, no matter what. i
RHONDA GALLAGHER has spent 20 years in the jewellery
industry in both Australia and New Zealand. She is passionate
about disability awareness and holds Diplomas in Gemmology
and Community Services, as well as a Certificate in Diamond
Grading. accessandinclusiontraining@gmail.com
30 Jeweller November 2019

HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR
The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair
flies above the turmoil
AMID CONTINUED UNREST, BOTH DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL, THE 38TH
HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR WAS PLACED IN A CHALLENGING POSITION.
YET IT HAS PROVED REMARKABLY RESILIENT, WRITES MARTIN FOSTER
he 38th Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair (HKWCF) opened in
early September against the background of Baselworld suffering
exhibitor self-doubt and the lightweight Salon International de la Haute
Horlogerie (SIHH) – now to be known as Watches & Wonders Geneva –
show-pony prancing at its heels.
Yet the divided agonies of the Swiss could not have been further from the
minds of the Hong Kong exhibitors or their visitors. This was not so much
born of indifference, but to the fact that Hong Kong is suffering its own
regional troubles.
Political protests began in March and April; by 9 June, hundreds of thousands
of people were marching in the streets. The demonstrations continued right
through until the opening of the HKWCF on 3 September.
Despite all the circumstances, the fair soared above the unpredictability on the
streets; personally, I saw no protestors on arrival or at my departure flight.
The HKWCF is held in the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on the
edge of beautiful Victoria Harbour. And throughout the trade show, there was
bling, dazzle and glitz aplenty.
This 38th edition of the fair attracted 18,000 buyers from 104 countries and
regions. There was growth in buyer attendance from emerging markets such as
Brazil, Poland, Russia, Ukraine and Vietnam, along with established markets such
as Belgium and Switzerland. The political tension between Beijing and Hong
Kong is believed to be the cause of a fall in Chinese attendance.
There were other global issues in play too, such as the China/USA trade fallout.
However, Benjamin Chau, deputy executive director of the Hong Kong Trade &
Development Council (HKTDC) which organises the HKWCF, said, “Despite the
continuation of the Sino-US trade friction, global exhibitors and buyers still view
Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair as a premier one-stop trading platform.
“The fair attracted various watch and clock brands, retailers and wholesalers such
as Shiel’s from Australia, Chilli Beans from Brazil, Wenger’s of Canada, Germany’s
Paul Valentine, Titan Group of India, Tous Watch from Spain, Iduna AB of Sweden,
November 2019 Jeweller 31

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Switzerland’s West End Watch and Armitron
from the United States.”
Generous credit must go to the Hong Kong
authorities, who maintained an official
‘business as usual’ image.
CONTINUED SUCCESS
As the Swiss trade events have progressively
unravelled, the Hong Kong fair has
fl ourished – but the reasons are not clear-cut
and resist lazy conclusions.
For example, it may well be that the highly
valued provenance for buyers of Swiss
luxury watches has waned a little for the
new-wealth buyers in Asian markets; this
possibility is refl ected in the already reduced
numbers of Asian exhibitors at Baselworld.
But concomitantly, we now see more Swiss/
European brands exhibiting in Hong Kong,
and the given reason is the beckoning
Chinese market.
Perhaps here we need to clarify another
widely held assumption that the Hong Kong
fair is selling to the whole world. Without
any doubt it most certainly is – but Chinese
wealth, and China itself, are the primary
targets of the 830 HKWCF exhibitors.
There are, reportedly, around 4,500 shopping
malls in China and another 7,000 are
expected to open in the next seven years. To
put that fi gure in context, the UK has 1,522,
France 1,253, Italy 860, and Germany 794.
The New South China Mall in Dongguan,
situated in central Guangdong Province, is
reputed to be the biggest in the world.
These malls include luxury watches and
jewellery at all levels. Thus, by any measure,
the exhibitor’s temptations are compelling
and the HKWCF provides the doorstep into
that temptation.
In terms of aesthetics and quality, Chinese
watchmakers are strongly closing the
gap with their Swiss counterparts. At the
same time, the Swiss are recognising the
broader opportunities of proximity to China
– and the HKWCF is an ideal crossroads of
these cultures.
This was evident in the tools exhibitors;
many of them were representatives of the
European makers and had wide ranges of
hand tools and parts from China.
THE SHOW THAT HAS IT ALL
In the halls of the fair can be found a full
range of mechanicals, complications, quartz
and smartwatches together with tools, parts,
crystals, testing equipment, machinery,
display stands, packing and presentation
materials and all associated services.
A special feature of the HKWCF is the
small orders zone. This presents about 130
showcases, targeting buyers seeking to
place orders for 5-1,000 watches, clocks,
leather straps, bracelets or accessories. Some
of these products can be ordered as singles
online or at the fair.
Indeed, it is a one-stop sourcing platform
for international buyers with prices ranging
from $1 to well into the tens of thousands.
At the 2019 edition, the fair’s Salon
de TE featured about 140 upmarket
brands and designer collections. These
included 13 luxury Swiss/German brands
from World Brand Piazza, along with
traditional craftsmanship at the Swiss
Independent Watchmaking Pavilion and
the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs
Indépendants (AHCI).
Useful statistics were also provided, with the
HKTDC commissioning independent market
research in which 839 buyers and exhibitors
were interviewed. The data showed that
about 31 per cent rated smartwatches to
be among the most popular categories for
2020. For automatic watches, the fi gure
was 22 per cent, followed by 18 per cent
for digital analogue watches and 14 per
cent for quartz analogue watches.
The respondents were also asked which
types of watches would be developed
most in the coming year; the three most
popular answers were watches connecting
with smart devices, watches infl uenced by
fashion trends, and mix-and-match watches
with changeable features.
The HKWCF will open its doors again on
1–5 September 2020. i
MARTIN FOSTER is a
freelance journalist and
Jeweller’s resident watch
and timepiece ‘guru’. He is
based in Sydney.
info@easyreadtimeteacher.com
www.easyreadtimeteacher.com

GEMS
GARNET: GEM OF MANY COLOURS – PART II
Andradite is the garnet member that gives
a different colour palette. In this branch we
find black garnet, called melanite, and yellow
topazolite. Both are seldom cut as gems due
to their small crystals.
The standout in the andradite branch is
vibrant green demantoid. With dispersion
greater than diamond and a striking, vibrant
rich green, demantoid is one of the most
valuable garnets. Originally sourced from
Russia, much of today’s demantoid comes
from Namibia.
Grossular garnet is found in a range of colours
including yellow, grey, colourless and green –
but rarely in red. Grossular gets its name from
the Latin word for gooseberry, the light green
variety being similar in colour to the fruit. You
might have heard of hessonite garnet; this is a
grossular garnet in shades of brownish yellow
to brown red.
In part two of the Garnet: Gem of Many
Colours series, key members of the garnet
family will be discussed, together with
garnet history – in the jewellery sense
– and garnet lore.
Two garnet colours very familiar to the
jewellery consumer are the dark red to
purplish red of pyrope and the brownish red
of almandine. Both garnet types have been
used in jewellery for many centuries, pyrope
being most prized due to its depth of rich
colour. Pyrope features in many religious
treasures from the Roman Catholic Church.
Almandine is the most abundant member
of the garnet family. It tends to be darker in
colour, with deep red gems considered more
valuable than the common brownish red.
Historically, almandine was fashioned en
cabochon with a hollowed back. This cut
enabled light to penetrate into the gem,
making its colour more appealing.
Pyrope and almandine can be difficult to
visually separate. Typically, almandine is
darker in colour and slightly heavier.
During the Victorian Era (1837-1901) pyrope
garnet was a particularly popular gemstone.
Originally called puropus (meaning fiery-eyed
in ancient Greek), pyrope was favoured for
its deep, bright red hue. Wealthy Victorian
women wore ornate tiaras set with pyrope,
diamonds and other gemstones.
For more informal wear, intricate hair combs
and other hair accessories, set with pyrope
alone, were popular. Victorians sourced
pyrope from the Kingdom of Bohemia, now
the Czech Republic and it was typically
fashioned as rose-cut or en cabochon.
Spessartine garnet displays colours ranging
from yellow and orange to rich orangey red.
It is prized for its colour vibrancy and high
dispersion. When faceted as a round brilliant,
Spessartine ‘pops’ with colour and brilliance.
THE MOST SOUGHT
AFTER GROSSULAR
GARNET IS THE
RICH GREEN
VARIETY CALLED
TSAVORITE.
ALMOST, BUT NOT
QUITE EMERALD
GREEN, TSAVORITE
WAS DISCOVERED
BY GEOLOGIST
CAMPBELL
BRIDGES IN
TANZANIA IN 1967
The most sought after grossular garnet is the
rich green variety called tsavorite. Almost,
but not quite emerald green, tsavorite was
discovered by geologist Campbell Bridges in
Tanzania in 1967. He found another source in
1970, near Kenya’s Tsavo National Park. Bridges
and former Tiffany & Co. president Henry B
Platt named tsavorite after its Kenyan source.
On first viewing the gem, Platt observed,
“Tsavorite is everything a fine gemstone
should be, and then some.’”
Garnet is a gemstone of many colours. As well
as the wide variety of hues available, its bright
vitreous lustre, hardness and wearability make
it an ideal gem choice. i
SUSAN HARTWIG FGAA came late to the world
of gemmology after a long career in corporate
training and project management. She
combines her love for writing with a passion
for gems and jewellery. Susan writes regularly
for her gemmology blog ellysiagems.com. For
more information on gemmology courses and
gemstones, visit: gem.org.au
November 2019 Jeweller 33

Completing my Diploma in
Gemmology has benefited
me as a jeweller in more
ways than I ever expected.
I have always had an interest
in gemstones and found
the course was not only
informative and challenging
but immensely rewarding.
Studying with the GAA has also
allowed me to meet like-minded
people from many facets of the
jewellery industry and grants me access
to resources that I will continue to use
throughout my professional career.
Emma Meakes FGAA
Jeweller, John Miller Design - WA
Diploma in
Gemmology
Enrolments now open
For more information
1300 436 338
learn@gem.org.au
www.gem.org.au
Be
Brilliant
Gem-Ed Australia
ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY
Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts
and consumers about gemstones

BUSINESS
BUSTING THE MYTHS THAT HOLD US BACK
In a world facing societal and systemic
change, everyone should reorient
their thinking towards the pursuit
of the common good. SUE BARRETT
presents a philosophical approach to
business management.
Consider these two questions: How much
of your success is solely because of your
own efforts and how much is because of
the success of your community, where you
were born, your family, what school you
attended, your private and public networks,
the government support you receive, the
infrastructure available to you and the era in
which you live?
It’s impossible to give definitive answers to
these questions; however, you’re probably
aware that much of our individual success
rests on the shoulders of others and the
common good upon which we find
ourselves relying each day.
This perspective – the ‘common good’
perspective – has been drowned out in
favour of hyper individualism in mainstream
society and media over the last 30 to
40 years, yet it is now making a major
comeback. This comeback is due to the
overwhelming societal and systemic
challenges we are now facing in our
economies, environment and societies.
Coming together and working for the
common good is the only way we can
navigate our way forward to a better future.
To do this, we need to address some of the
prevailing myths of the last few decades
that may impede our progress; it is these
myths and deep-rooted beliefs that keep us
from moving forward and finding common
ground for the common good.
THE CORE PRINCIPLES
A key element in the search for common
ground is recognising that no-one is an
island – we all depend on each other for our
survival, one way or another.
Here are some of prevailing myths versus
the reality:
The self-made person – the ‘overnight
sensation’, the ‘self-made millionaire’, the
‘sales superstar’ and the ‘start-up wonder
NO-ONE ACHIEVES
SUCCESS ENTIRELY
ON THEIR OWN...
WITHOUT
CUSTOMERS,
MEMBERS,
PATRONS, FANS,
OR FOLLOWERS –
CALL THEM WHAT
YOU WILL – THE
VERY EXISTENCE
OF THESE SELF-
MADE PEOPLE
WOULD NOT
HAVE BEEN ABLE
TO HAPPEN
kid’ could never have achieved their fame
and fortunes without relying on the human
networks that enabled them to take
advantage of opportunities that eventuated.
That’s not to take anything away from the
innovations or insights they developed,
however, these people can only ‘make it’
because they can draw upon the support
and goodwill of others.
That includes all the infrastructure that has
been put in place for the common good to
flourish, like roads, hospitals and healthcare,
schools, utility services (water, power,
sewage), a justice system and so much more.
All this infrastructure enables people to
pursue their business dreams.
No-one achieves success entirely on their
own and claiming such is a falsehood.
Without customers, members, patrons, fans,
or followers – call them what you will – the
very existence of these self-made people
would not have been able to happen.
Now, there’s nothing wrong with taking a
proactive approach to promoting and selling
our ideas and services to relevant target
November 2019 Jeweller 35

BUSINESS
markets, but one must recognise the roles of
others in one’s own success.
Individual resilience is key – the self-help
industry constantly promotes the power
of the individual as the centre for all truth,
resilience and self-determination.
What’s often forgotten is that it’s the power
of the environment in which people find
themselves and also, more often than
not, the kindness of strangers that creates
the conditions in which our own true self,
our resilience and self-determination can
flourish – or not.
Research has revealed that it is more
important to have a resilient environment
than to be internally resilient. A resilient
environment means having access to
resources and help from family, friends, work
colleagues, the wider community
and government.
This collective approach becomes even
more special if we acknowledge our
environment and our acceptance of help
from a place of gratitude – which leads on
to the next myth.
Gratitude is not important – in my book
142 Days Of Gratitude That Changed My
Life Forever, I write about how gratitude
binds people together in relationships of
reciprocity and is one of the building blocks
of a civil and humane society.
The world’s leading gratitude researcher
Prof Robert Emmons says, “Gratitude is a
social emotion. I see it as a relationshipstrengthening
emotion because it requires
us to see how we’ve been supported and
affirmed by other people.”
Emmons explains gratitude as a two-step
process, where we affirm goodness and
then recognise the source of the goodness:
“We acknowledge that other people – or
even higher powers, if you’re spiritual – gave
us many gifts, big and small, to help us
achieve the goodness in our lives.”
He is not the first to ascribe such lofty
qualities to gratitude. Ideas about its
importance as a moral force for good can be
discerned at least as far back as the Roman
statesman and philosopher Cicero, who
called gratitude “not only the greatest, but...
also the parent of all the other virtues”.
A profitable business can’t be ethical – the
hugely-influential management consultant
Peter Drucker once said, “The purpose of
business is not to make profit but to satisfy
the needs and expectations of customers.
The consequence of satisfied customers is
incremental profit.”
Many businesses have strayed from this
ethos into the ‘greed is good’, ‘whatever
it takes’, ‘winner takes all’ and ‘anything
goes’ cultures.
This inevitably leads to short-term vision
and a race-to-the-bottom mentality, which
only serves those who are quick enough
to reap the profits and even quicker to
abandon the market when it turns to tears.
This approach actually abuses the common
good as it leaves those who remain in the
industry to pick up the pieces.
Yet there are changes afoot – there are
proven models that show how businesses
can be extremely successful and ethical at
the same time.
Running an ethical business, including
ethical procurement and sales practices,
is one of the best things to do for the
common good. Prosperous ethical
businesses create jobs, transform and
restore communities, and contribute to
social wellbeing in ways that are beyond the
bottom line.
The success of companies like Patagonia,
Atlassian and Australian Ethical are good
examples of how these strategies can be
put into practice.
Prosperity can only be measured by GDP –
traditionally, the flow of goods and money
is measured as GDP; however, this is a
linear approach.
This economic thinking does not take into
account the complex system of humanity
– the collaborative commons or the
common good – and the essentials of life.
With more than 60 years of traditional
economic growth now floundering,
economists and others are rethinking how
we can progress.
Kate Raworth, of Doughnut Economics
fame, asks us to consider: what if economics
didn’t start with money but instead with
human wellbeing?
HUMAN
BEINGS HAVE
DEMONSTRATED
TIME AND TIME
AGAIN THEIR
INGENUITY. WE
HAVE AMAZING
TALENT TO
DEAL WITH
CHALLENGES
AND CREATE NEW
IDEAS, SERVICES
AND SYSTEMS
TO OVERCOME
ADVERSITY
Raworth challenges us to rethink our ideas
of progress. She asks us to consider what
progress truly looks like: where the balance
between using our resources and protecting
life is an interconnected support system.
What would we do if we focused on the
common good in our daily decision-making
processes? What if every government
focused on the common good when it came
to policy and negotiation?
Based on the current degradation of the
world’s resources, we need an economic
model that serves the common good.
I liken the common good to the core
operating system keeping us alive and
flourishing, as if we were all living on a
spaceship and had to keep ourselves alive for
years without access to any outside means.
That’s because that is what our world is –
one giant spaceship with limited resources,
powered by the Sun.
RETHINKING OUR APPROACH
Moving away from these myths will help us
understand how people in sales, business,
families and communities can contribute to
a better future by finding common ground
for the common good.
Human beings have demonstrated time
and time again their ingenuity. We have
amazing talent to deal with challenges and
create new ideas, services and systems to
overcome adversity.
There’s a world of opportunity to re-think
and re-design the way we see ourselves, the
way we live and the way we produce and
consume. Instead of constant competition,
let’s emphasise harmony and collaboration.
Instead of playing up profit at the expense of
everything else and the differences between
ourselves, let’s find common ground. We can
utilise those qualities and interests that draw
us together and unite in a shared goal.
Working together is so much more powerful
than going it alone. i
SUE BARRETT is founder
and managing director of
sales advisory, consulting
and education firm Barrett.
barrett.com.au
36 Jeweller November 2019

SELLING
GETTING ON TRACK FOR THE CHRISTMAS RUSH
RETAILERS SHOULD HAVE ALREADY STARTED PREPARING FOR CHRISTMAS, THE YEAR’S BUSIEST BUYING PERIOD. DAVID BROWN
SHARES HIS ESSENTIAL STEPS TO TAKE BEFORE THE HOLIDAY SEASON BEGINS TO SET YOUR BUSINESS UP FOR SUCCESS.
The busiest time of year is coming and
retailers and their staff will soon feel the
excitement of the festive season and the
bigger sales it can deliver.
However, it’s common to also feel
overwhelmed at Christmas; resources are
always stretched, staffing is at full capacity and
investment in stock is at an all-time high.
December is a time to focus on driving sales
as it should be the most profitable month
of the year. What retailers do now will set
themselves up for Christmas success.
SORT ROSTERS NOW
Chances are your store trading hours will
increase at this time of year. Don’t wait
until December to sort out your staffing
requirements. Ensure you have prepared the
roster well in advance and everyone knows
which days they will be required to work so
that they can plan accordingly.
It’s crucial to also have contingencies in place
for unexpected illnesses and to make sure
everyone gets some time off in order to stay
fresh for the workload Christmas brings.
IDENTIFY FAST-SELLERS
The 80/20 rule – also known as the Pareto
Principle – is never more alive than in
December. As a refresher, this rule is that 20
per cent of your inventory generates 80 per
cent of your revenue.
For that reason, now is the time to make sure
best sellers don’t run out. Print a list of fast
sellers by department and determine which
items are likely to sell in larger quantities in
December. Make sure you have enough to get
you through.
SET STAFF INCENTIVES
The holiday period is the time when you
need your salespeople to be at their most
motivated. Determine your target for the
month and offer team and individual
incentives – you could run a reward for the
highest sale of the day, for example.
IF YOU HAVE
A GOOD
CUSTOMER LIST
OR DATABASE, IT’S
TIME TO BEGIN
CONTACTING
THEM. MOST
PEOPLE WILL
NEED AT LEAST
ONE GIFT; DON’T
LEAVE IT UP
TO CHANCE
THAT THEY WILL
VISIT YOU
GET YOUR CHRISTMAS STRATEGY IN PLACE NOW
Motivated staff are less likely to take absences
and will work harder when it counts. They
also offer better customer service.
PLAN YOUR MARKETING
Which evening events will you be running
approaching Christmas? What promotional
material will you be producing? What
channels will you use to communicate these
and to whom? Will promotions go directly to
customers or to the public at large? Will there
be a gift with purchase or perhaps a discount
for buying add-on items?
These are all questions that can make or
break your selling season.
LIGHTS, LIGHTS, LIGHTS
It’s the little things that count. Replacing
lightbulbs whether they’ve gone out or
not can make a huge difference to how
diamonds sparkle in store.
Likewise, make sure all display cases are clean,
all price tickets are fresh and all windows
are themed appropriately with a mix of best
sellers and prestige items. In short, ensure the
store looks ready for business.
INVEST IN STAFF TRAINING
A quick refresher in sales techniques for
your staff can pay big dividends during
December but you won’t have time once the
month begins. Implement a series of training
sessions in the lead-up months to get your
staff operating at their most effective.
REPLENISH CONSUMABLES
Once again, it’s the small things that can
cause the biggest problems. Make sure
you have plenty of wrapping paper, boxes,
ribbons and other consumables that you’ll
need. Nothing is worse than the EFTPOS
machine running out of paper while there are
10 people in the queue!
ORDER EARLY, DELIVER LATE
Staggering order deliveries can help to ease
cash flow through Christmas. Order early
but arrange later deliveries to avoid settling
orders before the cash comes in.
LOOK FOR ADD-ONS
Pair all of your best-selling items with a
‘go-to’ add-on that can be offered with each
sale. Add-ons can make a huge difference,
particularly at this time of year.
WORK YOUR LIST
If you have a good customer list or database,
it’s time to begin contacting them. Most
people will need at least one gift; don’t leave
it up to chance that they will visit you. Make
a strong offer early in the season to keep
your store front of mind. A promotional text
message is a good option because people are
far more likely to open them than an email.
Whether you use these tips or not, don’t leave
planning for the busiest time of year until it’s
too late. December can contribute as much
as 25 per cent of a store’s total yearly sales and
can be almost 100 per cent of the profit for
some businesses. Investing some time now
will pay huge dividends for you later. i
DAVID BROWN is
co-founder and
business mentor of
Retail Edge Consultants.
retailedgeconsultants.com
November 2019 Jeweller 37

MANAGEMENT
HARNESSING THE UNEXPECTED POWER OF SILENCE
IT’S LONG BEEN SAID THAT COMMUNICATION IS KEY TO SUCCESS – BUT EFFECTIVE LEADERS MUST ALSO EMBRACE THE POWER OF
THE PAUSE. MIKE KOTSIS DISCUSSES WHY IT’S SO IMPORTANT FOR THOSE IN MANAGEMENT POSITIONS TO LET OTHERS SPEAK.
Too much silence in a business meeting is a
red flag. It means that people aren’t speaking
up, for a number of reasons.
However, if just one person is talking all of
the time, then the business has essentially
the same problem.
Business leaders naturally take risks when
making decisions quickly; they think aloud
and love to brainstorm.
If that describes you, silence in a meeting
can be excruciating – but it can also be good
for business.
Too much silence indicates a lack of team
health; when staff aren’t happy, this negative
environment causes an unwillingness to be
open and honest in the moment. Trust is the
greatest predictor of a team’s success and
staff will have the confidence to speak when
they trust each other.
By the same token, a lack of silence from
management will mean teams keep hitting
the ceiling of their potential. I’ve noticed
this play out within a few of my clients’
leadership teams.
The visionary in the team – the leader – is
someone who is used to giving their opinion
and setting the course for the meeting or
project. When this happens, there isn’t space
for the team to process what’s being said or
even to process their own thoughts.
Any decision that comes out of that meeting
is forever the leader’s idea and not the team’s.
If you really want to let go of the vine and
supercharge your leadership team, then you
need to be comfortable with not speaking.
Allow silence to happen as your team’s most
important work is being done in the spaces
where nothing is said.
When you allow silent moments in a
meeting, you’re also giving your staff
permission to speak their minds.
It may take some time for ideas to flow but
they will come. In fact, you’ll be surprised by
WHEN YOU ALLOW
SILENT MOMENTS
IN A MEETING,
YOU’RE ALSO
GIVING YOUR
STAFF PERMISSION
TO SPEAK THEIR
MINDS – IT MAY
TAKE SOME TIME
FOR IDEAS TO
FLOW BUT THEY
WILL COME
SILENCE CAN BE GOLDEN IN TEAM MEETINGS
the insights that you hear – insights that you
never would have had on your own.
NURTURE SILENCE IN YOURSELF
Ultimately, if others don’t speak up,
you’ll never achieve your company or
personal goals.
While your team is processing and sharing
their thoughts, just listen. Don’t share your
ideas until they are finished speaking. In
fact, only after they have shared their ideas
should you share any of yours.
Some of my clients need me to help them
balance the level of dialogue in a group so
that one person doesn’t dominate the room,
trying to own and take charge of every idea
and conversation.
If you are that person, it’s important to
understand doing so will leave you intricately
involved with things that actually keep you
from investing in your unique ability – the
essence of what you love to do and do best.
That is where your focus should be: on your
own set of natural talents and the passion
that fuels you to contribute in the ways that
most motivate you.
By strengthening the areas where we have
the possibility of achieving extraordinary
results, we allow ourselves the greatest
opportunity for success.
Knowing yourself and knowing how
you personally process information can
help tremendously when it comes to
implementing this goal.
This happens especially when you’re trying
to process something that’s unknown and
matters to you – that’s when your natural
instincts kick in.
In my business, we use several processes
to help leadership teams identify each
leader’s intuitive strengths. Everyone’s
instincts are different. When you’re striving
to solve a problem, most people in the room
will address it from completely different
directions, each driven by their instinct. If
your instincts drive you more toward the
‘quick start’ mentality, this means learning to
embrace the pause.
Let others speak first, even though you want
to drive forward. They will need time to
process the information and catch up.
To the degree that you know yourself and
your team, this will help you to solve issues
at a whole new level, without bogging down
your staff or preventing them from working
through it for themselves.
A leadership team that doesn’t have the
space to process their thoughts internally
isn’t leading – they’re following. And a leader
who is driving all of the team’s decisions is
holding onto the vine. Neither you nor your
team can be truly effective without that
space to think during a meeting, so shhh.
Before your next meeting, ask the facilitator
to hold you accountable for creating space
for the team to think and speak first.
Next, have them read this article and see
what kind of brilliance emerges! i
MIKE KOTSIS is a Certified
EOS Implementer, helping
entrepreneurs get what they
want from their businesses.
GPSforSmallBusiness.com
38 Jeweller November 2019

MARKETING & PR
ADVERTISING ISN’T THE PROBLEM – MARKETING IS
BEFORE BLAMING POOR ADVERTISING FOR A LACK OF SALES, RETAILERS SHOULD SCRUTINISE THE CATEGORY AND THE CONSUMER
OF THEIR PRODUCTS, THEN ADJUST THEIR STRATEGY AND CREATIVE BRIEF ACCORDINGLY, BARRY URQUHART ADVISES.
A prospective client once told me, “Advertising
is more than half my problem.”
In fact, that itself is a half-truth.
Thus, the self-image and role-specifics of a
prospective buyer will most certainly differ
depending upon the time of day.
In this particular instance, like so many others,
the advertising was a problem; however,
poor reaction to an ad is often symptomatic
of other factors ,like a misaligned creative
brief, inaccurate product positioning or poor
demographic profiling.
Achieving ‘cut-through’ with consumers is
becoming progressively more challenging.
Communication channels are rapidly
evolving. As a result, they are more complex,
fragmented and disjointed.
The concept of synergy seems lost on some
retailers and all too often, one plus one is
regularly coming up short of two.
Consumers today tend to have shorter
attention spans, plus they more-readily
exercise selective perception, filtering out
large blocks of communication from brands
they either deem irrelevant or outright dislike.
Typically, the blame for under-performance
in advertising gets attributed to choosing
the wrong communication channels or
employing the wrong advertising agencies.
Both are wrong.
You can target the right audience and still
achieve no real impact if the context is
not right.
PROPER HORSES FOR COURSES
The term ‘fit’ in marketing can relate to a
company, brand name, product, service and,
yes, category. A lack of fit has implications for
defining target audiences, product/service
configurations and timing.
Outdoor furniture is a fine example of these
factors in play, as it is a category that has some
unique characteristics: demand is typically
short-term with high peaks and low troughs,
and price is a key determinant in product and
outlet selection.
Why? Simply put, the term ‘outdoor furniture’
TYPICALLY,
THE BLAME
FOR UNDER-
PERFORMANCE
IN ADVERTISING
GETS ATTRIBUTED
TO CHOOSING
THE WRONG
COMMUNICATION
CHANNELS OR
EMPLOYING
THE WRONG
ADVERTISING
AGENCIES – BOTH
ARE WRONG
RE-THINK YOUR CONSUMER AND THEIR NEEDS
equates to ‘summer’ for many consumers. In
Australia, this means people generally aren’t
thinking about the category in winter and
possibly aren’t even purchasing unless in the
window of November to March.
Accordingly, advertising will not readily
resonate with target audiences during
autumn and winter – regardless of how
creative or price-oriented it is.
Therefore, effective repositioning of the
outdoor furniture category is needed to
promote scope and opportunities for
increasing sales throughout all four seasons.
UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER
All businesses will struggle at different times
to communicate with select demographic
and psychographic segments unless, and
until, all factors and variables are aligned.
Individual consumers fulfil multiple roles in
contemporary society. For example, a female,
aged 35, might awaken next to her spouse or
partner as a ‘wife’ then prepare breakfast for
the family as a ‘mother’.
While driving, she becomes a ‘commuter’
before arriving at work as an ‘employee’ or
‘boss’. On the way home, she might call into
the supermarket and completes her tasks as
a ‘home maker’ or stop off at a local sporting
club as a ‘team member’ or ‘coach’.
STIMULATING INTEREST
Certain key aspects of the communication
and marketing disciplines enhance impact,
resonance, effectiveness and sales when
developed in sequential order.
These include:
Refine target audience profiles – extend
consideration beyond demographic and
psychographic profiles. Identify, isolate,
analyse and focus on relevant lifestyle roleplays.
This will personalise your messages.
Reposition the brand, service or company
categories – broad-brush generalisations
typically lead to commoditisation. As an
example, department stores are passé,
outdated and hold little interest for many.
Discount department stores suffer from an
image and positioning problem, which is
reflected in poor and falling sales and profits.
Therefore, repositioning is necessary.
Consider complementary purchase
opportunities – Not all products, services and
brands are, in isolation, a primary purchase
item. Their value is enhanced when clustered
with other more-dominant merchandise.
There’s a reason “Would you like... with that?” is
a well-established proposition.
Recalibrate the advertising – Finally, from
a clean slate, decisions need to be made
about the content, the headline, context,
channels, and scheduling of the advertising/
communication mix.
As demonstrated, advertising can prove to
be the footnote rather than the centre of
communicating with your customers. i
BARRY URQUHART
is managing director of
Marketing Focus and an
international keynote speaker.
marketinginfocus.net.au
November 2019 Jeweller 39

LOGGED ON
BOOST YOUR VIDEO STRATEGY WITH IGTV
VIDEO IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR MARKETING TACTICS TODAY AND PUTTING CLIPS ON INSTAGRAM’S IGTV CAN HELP YOUR
CUSTOMER MARKETING GO ONE STEP FURTHER. LILIAN SUE EXPLAINS HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF THIS USEFUL FUNCTION.
Video marketing has been rising in
popularity in the past five years. According
to the Social Video Forecast, conducted by
Animoto, nearly 77 per cent of marketers
and small business owners are getting more
qualified leads due to video.
Consumers love video too. In fact, Hubspot’s
research shows that 45 per cent of people
watch an hour or more of video per day.
So, how can jewellery retailers capitalise on
this popularity?
Well, retailers could certainly post videos to
their Twitter or Facebook feeds and hope to
raise customer engagement rates but there
is much more that can be done with video
and this article intends to explore one of
these emerging options by asking: why not
try Instagram’s IGTV?
TRIPLE-VIDEO CAPABILITIES
Unlike Facebook and Twitter, Instagram
allows users to post three types of videos:
Instagram Feed, Instagram Stories and IGTV.
Within the Instagram Feed, users can post
videos up to one minute long.
These short clips can be uploaded as a single
video, as part of a carousel post or even as
multiple videos to be shared as a single clip.
Instagram also allows users to trim videos
so retailers will be able to edit multiple clips
together before uploading.
The second type of video retailers can post
is an Instagram Story. Users can shoot videos
directly inside the app and decorate these
with stickers, GIFs and text tags – both
general hashtags and tagging relevant
accounts with the @ symbol.
Users also have the option of uploading
pre-recorded videos to Instagram Stories.
Unlike videos in Instagram Feed, Story videos
have a limit of just 15 seconds.
The third type of Instagram video is the
most flexible and possibly most useful to
retailers. IGTV videos can be anywhere from
15 seconds to 10 minutes long for accounts
with smaller audiences, and up to one hour
for accounts with larger audiences.
GO LONG
As previously mentioned, IGTV allows users
to post long-form videos. They are also
hosted on a company’s own ‘channel’. This
means that a retail jeweller can brand the
channel with their own logo and have all
uploaded videos stay available until they
choose to delete them, bypassing the
automatic expiry of Instagram Stories.
Unlike other videos on Instagram, users
can also upload videos in both vertical and
horizontal formats.
Even better, users are able to add links,
hashtags and account tags to video
descriptions, which means retailers can
drive traffic to their websites from their
IGTV channel, increasing sales and audience
engagement with new products.
All three Instagram video formats can work
together in a complementary way.
For example, to help increase audience
viewership, jewellery store owners and
managers could post previews of their
IGTV videos to their Instagram Feeds,
increasing the number of views.
They can also post previews of IGTV videos
on Instagram Stories, teasing viewers to click
through to watch the full clips. This opens
another avenue for increasing engagement.
CREATE INSPIRING CONTENT
There are so many possibilities for retailers
when it comes to IGTV. They can highlight
new product lines as well as share
educational ‘how-to’ videos, such as how to
clean and repair different jewellery pieces.
Educational videos are always a good way
to introduce products and they don’t have
an expiration date until the product is no
longer available.
The feature-length tutorial format will help
to build a library of evergreen video content;
INSTAGRAM’S VIDEO FUNCTIONS OFFER A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES
NOTHING IS MORE
PERSUASIVE TO
CONSUMERS
THAN OTHER
CUSTOMERS
TALKING ABOUT
WHY THEY LOVE
A BUSINESS OR
BRAND – OFFER
FREE GIFT CARDS
TO THOSE WHO
WOULD BE
WILLING TO
SHARE THEIR
EXPERIENCES
ON VIDEO
you could teach a valuable skill to followers;
highlight behind-the-scenes moments with
staff or customer interactions; show bench
jewellers completing repairs; and publish
regular product updates on a monthly or
even weekly basis.
Every jeweller is bound to have some
customer success stories and sharing
personal testimonials from satisfied
customers can help retailers build social
proof. After all, nothing is more persuasive
to consumers than other customers talking
about why they love a business or brand.
Retailers can even make a contest of it
among their most loyal customers – offer
free gift cards to those who would be willing
to share their experiences on video.
For any retailer looking to improve their
digital video marketing, IGTV presents
great opportunities.
Incorporating any of these content
marketing ideas will help retailers raise brand
awareness, increase audience engagement
and potentially gain more sales. i
LILIAN SUE is a social
media and PR strategist.
She operates In Retrospect
Writing Services.
inretrospect21.wordpress.com
40 Jeweller November 2019

MY STORE
DEAR RAE
LOCATION: Johannesburg,
South Africa
NAME: Karin Rae Matthee
POSITION: Owner and designer
When was the space completed? We
completed our new studio in June
2019. The original space was an office, so
we had our work cut out for us! We did a
full revamp in less than two months and
simultaneously moved our workshop
and retail store across town. We wanted
to create a space that reflected our brand
best – one that would embody a sense
of flow between the outdoor Moroccanstyle
terrace, our shop, the office area, and
our upstairs workshop. We selected local
fittings and fixtures wherever we could.
Who is the target market and how
did they influence the store design?
Our clients are quite varied, from
locals looking for affordable gifts and
engagement rings, to tourists looking for
a treasure to take home. We sell to young
women and men in their twenties, all the
way to people in their fifties. Our more
affordable pieces – the brass and silver
collections – are found on our wall display
for customers to interact with. We then
have gold, diamonds and more exclusive
items in glass cabinets to showcase their
value without it feeling too intimidating.
Each display area conveys clean lines
and minimalism. We also have a private
lounge for customers to meet with a
designer and start discussing their dream
ring or a one-of-a-kind treasure.
With the relationship between store
ambience and consumer purchasing
in mind, which features in the store
encourage sales? Our space has a
natural aesthetic that acts as a beautiful
canvas to display our jewellery, whilst
communicating our values. We wanted
to make sure that customers would be
able to engage easily with products and
connect with our staff. Ultimately, it’s a
place with a welcoming atmosphere
where our customers can take their time
and soak in the Dear Rae experience.
What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?
Our terracotta tile feature wall and
our plant-filled terrace; it boasts an
extraordinary view of Table Mountain. i
November 2019 Jeweller 41

DIAMOND RINGS
GOLD JEWELLERY
WATCHES
FASHION JEWELLERY
LOOSE DIAMONDS
SILVER JEWELLERY
Danish watch brand
founder to visit IJF
Watch distributor Jarass
wi l welcome the Danish
founder of the Skagen
watch brand as a special
guest a the International Jewe lery Fair.
Flagship opening to reveal new
Ce rone brand
High-end Ce rone Jewe lers has
announced the opening of its new
flagship store at 14 Martin Place,
Sydney.
Special events at
Sydney jewe lery fair
Visitors to the
International
Jewe lery Fair (IJF)
will have access to
an unprecedented number of special
events, most set to take place in the
new .
Tug of war over New Zealand Fairs
The introduction of a second New
Zealand jewe lery fair has widened an
existing split in its industry.
Pandora receives
Danish medal
Pandora directors Karin
and Brook Adcock have
been awarded the
Diploma of the Danish
Export Association and His Royal Highness
Prince Henrik’s Medal .
Cover watch features
Swarovski crystals
New fashion watches
Skagen goes Swiss
Skagen’s new titanium range
Juicy Couture automatic
timepiece
Limited edition
Drop pendants
The Skandanavians
continue to impress!
Maximum beach from
Maxum
Australian beach culture
and surf lifestyle
PERFECT UNION
industry’s favourite metal.
paring back? CARLA CARUSO reports.
PASSION FOR FASHION
trends this season.
TERMINOLOGY
AND SPIN
To ensure the public
knows exactly what
they’re getting, the GAA’s
KATHRYN WYATT advocates
ge ting it right and being
consistent when it comes to
nomenclature.
[ read More >>]
GEORGINI
The black label autumn
winter collection boasts
sterling silver micro pave-set
with white and black cubic
zirconia
read more
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TOP 10 STORIES
Perfect Union
Ch osing a beautiful diamond
In streaks and bounds
The Pa las Co lection
Terminology and spin
New Sw et drops bracelet
Aquamarine: go de s of the sea
The Diamond drought
Which diamond shape?
Diamonds most dainty
10 YEARS AGO
WHAT WAS MAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?
A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE NOVEMBER 2009 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.
Bright
Why white remains in favour
NOVEMBER 2009
NOVEMBER 2009
Diamond forecast: dry
The story: Argyle diamond mine owner Rio Tinto
has unveiled analysis showing most existing mine
resources for rough diamonds will be gone within
15 years, with new diamond discoveries becoming
increasingly rare.
According to Rio, annual discoveries of kimberlite
‘pipes’, the host rocks for diamonds, have fallen on
a fi ve-year moving average basis to little more than
100. History indicates that only one in 10 kimberlite
pipes contain diamonds and only one in 100 of
those are economic to mine, according to a report
in The Age newspaper.
‘Jeweller’ goes .com
The story: Jeweller magazine has offi cially
launched its new website, jewellermagzine.
com. Unique in global trade media, it
effectively offers two separate sites: one for
industry members (B2B) and another for
jewellery consumers (B2C).
Both B2B and B2C sites also offer unique
search functions, e-newsletter updates, and
articles tailored specifi cally to the user’s
interests.
Of particular interest to retailers will be the
Search/Products function, which operates
like an online version of Jeweller’s annual
Supplier’s Directory, but with pictures.
Jewe lery News Magazine
WEDDING & ENGAGEMENT
NEW PRODUCTS
The lack of new discoveries since the mid-1980s
means the world’s mine reserves of rough
diamonds have fallen from a supply of 80 years to
just 15 years, as Rio has forecasted.
NEWS
HOME SECTIONS LEARN ABOUT WHAT’S HOT JOIN SEARCH CONTACT US
SEARCH STORIES BY: OR
MAKING THE MOST OF IT
Keyword Go SUBSCRIBERS - REGISTERED USERS
Less buyers at this year’s Vicenza Charm didn’t diminish the spirits
of organisers, who insis the fair provides a valuable service for the
industry. COLEBY NICHOLSON attended. [ read .]
IN STREAKS AND BOUNDS
Despite soaring prices, certain factors ensure gold
remains a favourite, hotly demanded by consumers
the world over. NICK LORD investigates the e fects
of recent movements upward in the price of the
Fancy-cut engagement rings for the brides and
diamond-set wedding bands for the grooms are
just some of the looks being favoured in bridal
jewellery, but wi l the economic downturn see a
Once shunned, now worshiped, fashion jewellery
has made its mark - forever changing the market.
BIANCA MANGION gets the goss on what’s making
FEATURED PRODUCT
JEWELLER BLOG
advertisement advertisement
SHOWCASE FUELS JAA
MEMBER INFLUX
The story: The JAA has recently
announced the addition of 170
new association members from the
Showcase Jewellers buying group.
Showcase retailers were responsive to a
deal from the JAA that offered discount
rates to buying group members. As
a result, 90 per cent of Showcase
members are now part of the JAA.
Ian Hadassin, CEO of the JAA, said, “Up
until recently, buying group members
could join as normal members and
pay their normal fees with no special
arrangement but the JAA board
believed it should treat the buying
groups similar to chain stores.
“We offered them a special deal that
was substantially lower than normal
fees, and that’s what enticed most of
them to come across.”
He credited the Showcase board’s
efforts in promoting JAA membership.
Michael Mishevski, CEO Showcase
Jewellers, was delighted with the deal.
“Showcase Jewellers believes in a
strong industry association that can
represent the jewellery industry to
relevant government and regulatory
bodies,” he said.
Gold price reaches a new record
The story: The gold price hit a record high in October –
reaching $US1,053 an ounce.
Gold has gained almost 20 per cent since the beginning
of 2009, fuelled by a weak US dollar – which triggered
increased investment from buyers using gold as a
hedge – and the threat of infl ation. More gains are likely,
according to analysts.
“Gold has signifi cant upside potential into 2010,” said
Jordan Kotick at Barclays Capital, adding, “Resistance
currently is at $1,370; history suggests a run at $1,500.”
As a result of rising prices and the fi nancial crisis, world
gold fabrication dropped 25 per cent in the fi rst half of
this year, according to a gold market report entitled Gold
Survey 2009 - Update 1 from research consultancy GFMS.
42 Jeweller November 2019

Experience a
sense of wonder
Experience a sense of wonder as you immerse yourself in a wonderland of spectacular jewellery and timepieces at the
2020 International Jewellery & Watch Fair. Be inspired by the excellence and passion in workmanship with all the latest global trends
on display across three days of buying and selling. Identify new business opportunities while gaining knowledge and hands-on
skill sets from industry leaders during education sessions, all under the one roof. For more information visit www.jewelleryfair.com.au
INTERNATIONAL
J E W ELLERY & WATCH
FAIR
September 12 – 14, 2020
ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour
WWW.JEWELLERYFAIR.COM.AU
Organised by

MY BENCH
Natalie
Handling
WORKS AT: Fairfax &
Roberts, Sydney
YEARS IN TRADE: 29
TRAINING: Sir John Cass
School of Art, Architecture &
Design, London, six years
FIRST JOB: Paragon Jewellers,
London, 1996
OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:
Gemmologist and hand
engraver. I learnt in London
and then was taught
engraving at Enmore TAFE for
two years. I now also run my
own engraving business.
Favourite gemstone:
Tourmaline, as it comes in
so many beautiful colours.
Favourite metal: Platinum; it
demands respect when you
work with it to get a beautiful
finish. Also, there’s this fineness
you can push it to.
Favourite tool: Tweezers
– I’m lost if I can’t find one of
my two ‘special’ pairs!
Best part of job: Variety, the
challenge of a complicated
design or repair, and the joy it
brings to the recipient.
Worst part of job: Seeing
the disruptive technology,
CAD [computer-assisted
design], change the skill-set
required to become
a well-rounded and
confident jeweller.
Best tip from a jeweller:
It’s old school: using a
gramophone needle in
a pin-vice as a burnisher.
I still use it almost every day.
Best tip to a jeweller:
Never be afraid to try a
new way of doing something.
Time taken to get each
step of a job where it needs
to be along the way will
result in a better and
faster job.
Biggest health concern on
the bench: Polishing and
protecting my eyeballs!
Love jewellery because:
It’s my creative outlet. i

SOAPBOX
THE ONLY WAY TO SUCCEED
IS TO PUT CUSTOMERS FIRST
It’s easy to look at the current state of
things within our industry and feel a
sense of doom. Every year, another list of
jewellers and manufacturers close their
doors, some of which only a short time
ago would have been considered good
solid businesses. Gone are the days when
the revenue generated at Christmas would
balance the books, pay the suppliers and
leave enough to replenish the stock, pay
staff bonuses and maybe allow for a week
off. So, where do we go from here?
An old employer once told me that when we
gave consistent exceptional service, we would
not be able to cope with the amount of
money we’d make. I’m still waiting for the last
bit, and I think he also used to say, “This time
next year, we’ll be millionaires.”
But his fi rst piece of advice still stands.
If we don’t leave our clients wanting to tell
their friends about us, then how will their
friends fi nd us? Facebook advertising? I truly
hope it doesn’t come down to that!
I started my business in 2000. I’d left a wellpaid
city job hoping for a few weeks off,
but took a phone call on Boxing Day from a
Canberra jeweller inviting me to come down
and pick up some trade work.
I found myself back at the bench by the
New Year. Before long, I’d registered my
business – calling it Wild Trout after the highly
prized fi sh that I occasionally felt, briefl y, on
the end of my line – and started working from
our Bondi apartment. Soon, I moved into a
vacant shop 15 minutes’ walk away, which
had been a jewellery store for at least the
previous 30 years.
As soon as I opened, people assumed I
must be part of the same family and just fell
through the door.
In my eagerness to open, I had nothing
to put on sale; the cabinets were empty
except for a few signs saying things like,
‘gold chain coming soon’ and ‘diamond
rings, made to order’.
Although I’d taken a big risk, signing a
three-year lease and spending my savings
on setting up, I had none of the doubts that
today’s young jewellers must have entering
our industry.
Things were very simple as a new shop;
almost every day we broke the sales record
of the previous day, week, and month. We
had plenty of trade work too – so much so
that before the fi rst year was out, I’d hired
employees and tried out bench jewellers. One
of them has stayed with me ever since.
I count myself very fortunate to have had
some wonderful staff who supported my
clients and became good friends, and I’m still
in contact with most of them, many years
after our paths diverged.
So where am I going with all this? I started
talking doom and gloom and then gave a
brief history of my own business.
Well, as I’ve gotten older, the more I realise
that I haven’t ‘built’ my business. Sure, I found
a place and decked it out with tools and
cabinets – but I didn’t build my business.
I’m involved in every aspect from customer
service, repairs, designs, remakes, CAD, setting,
polishing, suppliers, and buying groups, but I
built nothing.
MY CLIENTS
HAVE BUILT MY
BUSINESS... BEFORE
I SIGNED MY FIRST
LEASE I ASKED
MYSELF HOW I
COULD MAKE IT
WORK. MY CLIENTS
ANSWERED THAT,
AND I BELIEVE THAT
THE ANSWER STILL
LIES WITH THEM
All I have done is supply the building blocks.
In fact, my clients have built my business.
They are the ones that stuck their heads
around my door 19 years ago and had a look
inside. They brought me work and chose
their precious gifts from my offerings. They
gossiped about our store and how we went
the extra mile and told their friends to go
nowhere else. Even when they moved away
from the area, they came back to visit and
brought their repairs with them.
When I look at our own shop fi gures for
the last fi nancial year it appears that a lot of
people just stopped buying jewellery off the
shelf. There has been resurgence in custommade
and bespoke pieces, which is great, but
what about the stock we all have?
Before I signed my fi rst lease I asked myself
how I could make it work. My clients
answered that, and I believe that the answer
still lies with them. Now, far more than ever
before, if my clients don’t want what I have
on the shelf, I need different stock – not new
clients.
One of the hardest things I’ve found in
customer service is to be consistently good.
It’s so easy to overlook a client, and not give
them the same full attention they received the
previous visit. It’s not realising that they might
have taken time out of their busy day to visit
my store. Consistency is key. i
Name: David Hollanders
Company: Wild Trout Jewellery
Position: Director
Location: Sydney, NSW
Years in industry: 36
46 Jeweller November 2019

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