Edible San Diego Special Edition: Feasts from the East Issue #56
The Issue 56 Winter 2019 edition of Edible San Diego is a special tribute to the diverse East Asian communities that call the county home.
The Issue 56 Winter 2019 edition of Edible San Diego is a special tribute to the diverse East Asian communities that call the county home.
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Explore <strong>the</strong> flavors of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />
NO. 56 • SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019<br />
EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />
<strong>Feasts</strong><br />
From<br />
<strong>the</strong> east
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
eat<br />
drink<br />
shop<br />
play<br />
CALIFORNIA CUISINE<br />
HAS NEVER LOOKED BETTER<br />
DAILY BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER<br />
SUNDAY CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH<br />
Advertise with <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
Al Fresco Dining | Sushi & Seafood Options | Complimentary Parking<br />
Located at <strong>the</strong> Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa | (858) 539-8635 | OceanaCoastalKitchen.com
<strong>Feasts</strong> From <strong>the</strong> <strong>East</strong> • <strong>Special</strong> <strong>Issue</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> 56<br />
IN THIS ISSUE<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
4 Publisher’s Note<br />
LIVING LOCAL<br />
6 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets,<br />
Bookshelf, Market Finds,<br />
Let’s Grow<br />
FEATURES<br />
Tasting Notes<br />
PAGE 19<br />
Asian-ish<br />
PAGE 20<br />
EATING WELL<br />
10 Skip <strong>the</strong> Takeout<br />
GROWING GOOD<br />
16 True Heirlooms<br />
FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS<br />
23 An Officer and a Director<br />
STAYCATION<br />
26 Island Escape<br />
LOCAL ATTRACTIONS<br />
30 Farmers’ Markets<br />
31 Check This Out, In Season,<br />
Events<br />
PREP<br />
32 Bibingka Ube<br />
WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON<br />
EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />
More seasonal reading, recipes,<br />
and places to eat this November<br />
and December only on our<br />
website.<br />
READ<br />
Locals Only Guide • Turmeric<br />
Recipes • Pumpkin Everything<br />
• Working on Wellness • Grown<br />
in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>: A Farmer’s Story<br />
LISTEN<br />
NEW Living Local Podcast<br />
WATCH<br />
Kamayan Feast<br />
Easy Thai Rice Noodle Recipes<br />
+ New recipe videos every<br />
week<br />
Make <strong>the</strong> Season Bright!<br />
ORGANIC PRODUCE & ARTISAN GROCERIES<br />
Delivered to Your Door!<br />
$<br />
15 OFF!<br />
YOUR FIRST DELIVERY<br />
Use Promo Code<br />
EDIBLESD2019<br />
WWW.FARMFRESHTOYOU.COM<br />
ON THE COVER: Chef Fern Tran<br />
shows us how to make a Thai feast<br />
fit for any special occasion or casual<br />
weeknight dinner.<br />
Recipes start on page 13.<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
2 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 3
PUBLISHER’S NOTE |<br />
Perched<br />
on <strong>the</strong><br />
Pacific Rim<br />
S<br />
urrounded by <strong>the</strong> Rim of Fire, a ring of colliding<br />
tectonic plates, <strong>the</strong> world’s largest ocean connects <strong>San</strong><br />
<strong>Diego</strong> County to people and nature in ways that make our<br />
region unique in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
Welcome to this special edition (second this year after our<br />
May issue celebrating Cali-Baja cuisine), which delves into<br />
our culinary neighborhood through <strong>the</strong> lens and taste buds<br />
of our multifaceted <strong>East</strong> Asian-American community. <strong>Edible</strong><br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s mission goes beyond exploring Asian food. We<br />
invited Nino Camilo, creator of <strong>the</strong> famed OnoYum Poke<br />
Festival, to guest-edit this issue in an effort to go deep. How<br />
we define ourselves as Americans is a big topic today, and<br />
in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County, 17% of <strong>the</strong> population claims Asian<br />
descent.<br />
In this issue, our main feature highlights first- and<br />
second-generation Americans, including local chefs and<br />
restaurateurs, in an engaging roundtable conversation about<br />
<strong>the</strong> influence of <strong>East</strong> Asian cuisine in <strong>the</strong> region. We were<br />
captivated by one idea that emerged: a desire to preserve<br />
au<strong>the</strong>nticity and tradition. We also present three familystyle<br />
Thai noodle recipes, a feature on Chino Family Farm,<br />
and a violist <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Symphony pairing musical<br />
experiences with <strong>the</strong> culinary arts.<br />
This November and December, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> invites<br />
you into a conversation about living local that sets aside<br />
<strong>the</strong> usual flurry of holiday messages. This year we have<br />
continued to refine our editorial coverage to look more<br />
squarely at our food system, <strong>the</strong> very diverse people and <strong>the</strong><br />
geography of this place, <strong>the</strong> many facets of health, and <strong>the</strong><br />
interconnectedness of <strong>the</strong> natural systems we are part of.<br />
Next year you can expect a new focus on seasonality, with<br />
four <strong>the</strong>matic issues of <strong>the</strong> magazine and related events.<br />
What will remain constant is <strong>the</strong> brisk pace of original,<br />
quality stories online, our enticing social media platforms,<br />
recipe videos, and my Living Local podcast on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Special</strong>ty<br />
Produce Network, all of which are designed to enrich this<br />
discussion.<br />
During <strong>the</strong> hectic holiday season and every day<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> year, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is here to be your<br />
go-to guide for living local. It is our business as a media and<br />
events company to bring people toge<strong>the</strong>r through locally<br />
produced food.<br />
Toge<strong>the</strong>r we can celebrate our progress and recommit to<br />
<strong>the</strong> good work that remains.<br />
EDITORIAL<br />
Katie Stokes<br />
Editor in Chief<br />
Maria Hesse<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Felicia Campbell<br />
Executive Digital Editor<br />
Olivia Hayo<br />
Associate Editor<br />
Dawn Mobley<br />
Copy Editor<br />
edible Communities<br />
2011 James Beard Foundation<br />
Publication of <strong>the</strong> Year<br />
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />
Annika Constantino<br />
Assistant Social Media Editor<br />
Nino Camilo<br />
Editor at Large<br />
@ediblesd<br />
@ediblesandiego<br />
@ediblesandiego<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
For more information about rates and deadlines, contact<br />
info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292<br />
No part of this publication may be used without written permission <strong>from</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> publisher. © 2019 All rights reserved.<br />
Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an<br />
error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere<br />
apologies. Thank you.<br />
COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />
DESIGN TEAM<br />
Maria Hesse<br />
Designer<br />
Olivia Hayo<br />
Visuals Editor<br />
Jamie Runnells<br />
Illustrator<br />
Prissana Tran<br />
James Tran<br />
Contributing Stylists<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
Katie Stokes<br />
SALES<br />
John Vawter<br />
Trisha Weinberg<br />
Scott White<br />
CONTACT<br />
<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
P.O. Box 83549 • <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, CA 92138<br />
619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com<br />
Katie Stokes<br />
Publisher, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
4 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 5
LIVING LOCAL |<br />
| LIVING LOCAL<br />
Hot Dish<br />
Homestyle Filipino Essentials<br />
BY ANNIKA CONSTANTINO<br />
The Filipino food scene in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is arguably <strong>the</strong> best in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
California, so head to National City to find <strong>the</strong>se classic dishes.<br />
Lumpia<br />
A favorite <strong>from</strong> Tita’s Kitchenette is<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir lumpia: deep-fried spring rolls<br />
filled with mixed vegetables and<br />
minced meat. Enjoy <strong>the</strong>m as a snack<br />
to share with friends or simply pair<br />
with white rice for a meal. Ei<strong>the</strong>r way,<br />
hot and crunchy lumpia is best when<br />
dipped in its accompanying signature<br />
condiment—a sweet-and-sour red<br />
sauce that balances <strong>the</strong> lumpia’s savory<br />
filling.<br />
» facebook.com/pages/Titas-<br />
Kitchenette/118178764860248<br />
Pancit Malabon<br />
One of <strong>the</strong> best sellers at Manila<br />
Sunset is <strong>the</strong>ir pancit Malabon, a<br />
stir-fried, yellow-orange rice noodle<br />
dish topped with shrimp, vegetables,<br />
chicharron, and slices of boiled eggs.<br />
Left: The lumpia at Tita’s Kitchenette is as<br />
addictive as it is crispy. Above: A satisfying<br />
matcha green Thai tea at VaniTea Café.<br />
Everything is coated in patis (fish sauce),<br />
and a generous squeeze of lemon over <strong>the</strong><br />
top goes a long way. It’s quite difficult to<br />
find pancit Malabon—especially one that’s<br />
just as good as Manila Sunset’s—at o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
restaurants in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />
» manilasunset.com<br />
Chicken Adobo<br />
Chicken adobo is a popular dish inside<br />
and outside of <strong>the</strong> Filipino community,<br />
and one of <strong>the</strong> restaurants that does this<br />
dish justice is Villa Manila. The chicken<br />
is moist and tender, and <strong>the</strong> adobo sauce<br />
is packed with flavor <strong>from</strong> vinegar, soy,<br />
garlic, black pepper, and bay leaves. Its<br />
tangy and slightly sour taste pairs well<br />
with white rice—or kick it up a notch and<br />
order it with garlic rice.<br />
» villamanila.com<br />
Liquid Assets<br />
The Best Teas<br />
BY BROOK LARIOS<br />
T<br />
he<br />
fun is in <strong>the</strong> sipping of <strong>the</strong>se local<br />
Taiwanese teas.<br />
CHAKAA<br />
Don’t just say cheese, drink it at CHAKAA. Each cup of<br />
tea is hand-brewed in what founder and CEO Marvin<br />
C. Wang calls a “teaspresso,” an appliance akin to an<br />
espresso machine for tea. For <strong>the</strong> cheese tea newbie, try<br />
<strong>the</strong> white peach or cold-brewed jasmine tea with cheezo,<br />
a luscious and creamy cheese foam topping.<br />
» instagram.com/chakaausa<br />
VaniTea Café<br />
When it comes to wild drinks, guests flock to one of<br />
VaniTea Café’s three locations for an expansive menu<br />
of drinkable concoctions. But what really attracts <strong>the</strong><br />
masses is <strong>the</strong> one-of-a-kind matcha green Thai tea, which<br />
doses devotees—many of <strong>the</strong>m students <strong>from</strong> UCSD—<br />
with enough legal stimulant to get through <strong>the</strong> next<br />
three years of finals.<br />
» vaniteacafe.com<br />
Tea Station<br />
Those seeking <strong>the</strong> tried-and-true opt for a simple boba<br />
beverage <strong>from</strong> Tea Station. Team members boil fresh<br />
boba daily, adding in honey to prevent <strong>the</strong> beads <strong>from</strong><br />
sticking toge<strong>the</strong>r. Where many of <strong>the</strong> newer shops carry<br />
popping boba, Tea Station specializes in <strong>the</strong> basics:<br />
regular and mini boba in only <strong>the</strong> chewy variety. The<br />
customer favorite is <strong>the</strong> boba mint tea.<br />
» teastationusa.com<br />
Bookshelf<br />
BY MARIA HESSE<br />
Rancho Bernardo native<br />
Nicole Ponseca and chef<br />
Miguel Trinidad are largely<br />
credited with elevating<br />
Filipino cuisine in <strong>the</strong> New<br />
York dining scene through <strong>the</strong>ir concepts Maharlika<br />
and Jeepney. Their award-winning cookbook, I Am<br />
a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook (Artisan, 2018),<br />
showcases Kamayan cuisine and traditional dishes.<br />
Ponseca says we should make sure to try <strong>the</strong> arroz caldo,<br />
kare kare, classic adobo, and pansit pusit.<br />
BHADRI KUBENDRAN<br />
Market<br />
Finds<br />
Gift-Giving<br />
is Easier in<br />
Kearny Mesa<br />
BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />
Kearny Mesa has become<br />
my go-to destination for<br />
gift shopping. Daiso on<br />
Clairemont Mesa Boulevard<br />
is a great place to find<br />
whimsical stocking stuffers<br />
and affordable gift wrap, and<br />
I’ve made some pretty epic<br />
Korean barbeque-<strong>the</strong>med<br />
gift baskets using finds like<br />
bulgogi marinade, hot chile<br />
paste, and dukbokki-flavored<br />
potato chips <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> newly<br />
opened H Mart on Balboa<br />
Avenue.<br />
When it comes to holiday<br />
gift-giving, Mitsuwa<br />
Marketplace is a step ahead<br />
of <strong>the</strong> rest. Gift sets crowd<br />
<strong>the</strong> endcaps during <strong>the</strong><br />
holiday season, festively<br />
displaying <strong>the</strong> likes of sake<br />
gift sets, Pocky gift sets<br />
featuring every flavor under<br />
Delight your friends and family with perfectly<br />
wrapped treats like a box full of Japanese mochi.<br />
<strong>the</strong> sun, and soba noodle gift<br />
sets. Basically, if <strong>the</strong>y sell it,<br />
it’s likely to be bundled in an<br />
enticing gift set.<br />
While <strong>the</strong>se are all amazing<br />
options, <strong>the</strong> most lifechanging<br />
offerings can<br />
be found in <strong>the</strong> front of<br />
<strong>the</strong> store, where you’ll be<br />
greeted by rows of prewrapped<br />
bundles to satisfy<br />
all your gift-giving needs.<br />
Yes, you read that right—<strong>the</strong><br />
gifts are already perfectly<br />
wrapped.<br />
On top of each neat stack,<br />
an open box lets you peek at<br />
<strong>the</strong> delights tucked inside <strong>the</strong><br />
ready-to-give package, <strong>from</strong><br />
nori rice crackers to mochi,<br />
sesame-studded cookies to<br />
moon cakes. Whe<strong>the</strong>r sweet<br />
or savory or a combination<br />
of both, each set provides a<br />
bite-sized culinary adventure.<br />
This is a gift that always fits,<br />
is always surprising, and,<br />
did I mention, requires no<br />
wrapping. You’d be just as<br />
thrilled to receive one as<br />
you’d be to give one.<br />
» mitsuwa.com/sd<br />
www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com<br />
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ecoartisan@mac.com<br />
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858.569.0415 phone<br />
6 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 7
LIVING LOCAL |<br />
Let’s Grow<br />
Garlic<br />
BY MARIA HESSE<br />
The highly nutritious garlic plant has very<br />
few calories and countless proven health<br />
benefits—but even better, every part of <strong>the</strong><br />
plant is edible and it’s incredibly easy to grow.<br />
Cathryn Henning, manager at Wild Willow<br />
Farm, indicates that late fall is <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />
time to plant it.<br />
“There are two types of garlic available:<br />
softneck and hardneck,” Henning explains.<br />
“Hardneck varieties form a garlic scape<br />
towards <strong>the</strong> end of maturity, which are<br />
delicious chopped up in a stir-fry. However,<br />
most hardneck varieties do best in cold<br />
climates.”<br />
Start by selecting a garlic variety suitable<br />
for our mild winters, like <strong>the</strong> Donostia<br />
Red grown at Wild Willow. Spicy and<br />
delicious, this hardneck Creole variety is<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Basque region of Spain, which has<br />
a microclimate similar to ours. This variety<br />
yields a vibrant fuchsia color at <strong>the</strong> base of <strong>the</strong><br />
stalk and bigger cloves thanks to our warm<br />
winters. Henning suggests planting mid-tolate<br />
autumn: “Garlic is considered a holiday<br />
plant. Plant on Halloween to harvest on <strong>the</strong><br />
4th of July. This doesn’t always work out with<br />
our mild winters, and we typically harvest<br />
mature heads as early as May. It’s best to plant<br />
garlic in October, although in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>,<br />
folks have success planting as late as <strong>the</strong> end<br />
of November.”<br />
Garlic for growing can sell out fast and<br />
should only be “purchased directly <strong>from</strong> a<br />
seed company or <strong>from</strong> a local nursery,” adds<br />
Henning. “Our favorite online company is<br />
Adaptive Seeds and our favorite local nursery<br />
is City Farmers. Purchase garlic in whole<br />
heads and separate into individual cloves just<br />
before planting. Keep <strong>the</strong> paper intact to<br />
protect <strong>the</strong> clove <strong>from</strong> rotting in <strong>the</strong> ground.<br />
Garlic will sprout shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter.”<br />
Henning advises keeping garlic beds well<br />
weeded. “It hates competition,” she says.<br />
“We like to mulch our garlic with alfalfa to<br />
not only keep <strong>the</strong> weeds down and moisture<br />
in, but to also provide an additional source<br />
of nitrogen. Garlic is considered a heavy<br />
feeder, so make sure it has plenty of nitrogen<br />
bioavailable when you plant.”<br />
One thing in particular to love about garlic<br />
is that it can be harvested in various phases.<br />
The green garlic adorning <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> farmers’<br />
market booths in early spring is <strong>the</strong> young<br />
shoots of <strong>the</strong> plant that can be eaten before<br />
<strong>the</strong> bulb begins to form; <strong>the</strong>y’re similar to<br />
scallions in appearance but carry <strong>the</strong> rich<br />
flavor of garlic. To harvest green garlic, opt to<br />
ei<strong>the</strong>r collect <strong>the</strong> green shoots by trimming off<br />
what you need so that <strong>the</strong> plant can continue<br />
to mature, or harvest <strong>the</strong> whole plant and<br />
enjoy in place of garlic cloves in any recipe.<br />
Once you’ve harvested all <strong>the</strong> green garlic you<br />
want, let <strong>the</strong> plants continue to grow. Garlic<br />
scapes will appear and be ready to harvest on<br />
hardneck varieties just before <strong>the</strong> plant fully<br />
matures. Try <strong>the</strong>se in my personal favorite,<br />
maneuljong-muchim, a spicy Korean garlic<br />
scape salad made with gochujang, soy sauce,<br />
rice vinegar, and toasted sesame seeds.<br />
“Once <strong>the</strong> outer three or four leaves die off,<br />
turn off <strong>the</strong> water and pull away <strong>the</strong> mulch,<br />
allowing <strong>the</strong> plants to put <strong>the</strong>ir energy into<br />
bulbing up and away <strong>from</strong> leaf production.<br />
Be patient and make sure those leaves<br />
have fully died back before harvesting and<br />
curing,” Henning says. Leave harvested bulbs<br />
unwashed with stalks and roots intact, and<br />
cure in <strong>the</strong> shade for three to four weeks.<br />
Properly cured garlic typically lasts six to eight<br />
months, keeping you well stocked for <strong>the</strong><br />
year.<br />
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8 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 9
EATING WELL |<br />
| EATING WELL<br />
Skip <strong>the</strong> Takeout<br />
BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />
RECIPES AND STYLING BY FERN TRAN<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />
ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAMIE RUNNELLS<br />
Sou<strong>the</strong>ast Asian cooking can be intimidating,<br />
but chef Fern Tran shares her favorite recipes<br />
for three classic rice noodle dishes that can be<br />
made in minutes and are perfect for sharing<br />
with family and friends.<br />
“I haven’t made Thai food in a long time,” says Fern Tran as she fries<br />
eggs and cubes of seasoned chicken breast in an oil-slicked wok.<br />
Tran moved to <strong>the</strong> States in 1995 <strong>from</strong> Isan in nor<strong>the</strong>rn Thailand, and she spends most of her time<br />
making elevated versions of pan-Asian classics in <strong>the</strong> kitchen at The Florence, where she is a chef and<br />
partner. She adds a few tongfuls of rubbery rice noodles. “Always <strong>the</strong> same—oil, egg, protein, noodle.<br />
See how <strong>the</strong>y don’t stick?”<br />
Rice noodles were introduced to Thailand by Vietnamese and Chinese immigrants, and <strong>the</strong>y are now<br />
essential ingredients in many classic Thai dishes, like Pad Thai, Tom Yum soup (which can also be served<br />
over rice or on its own), and Pad Kee Mao (drunken noodles), <strong>the</strong> very dish she was in <strong>the</strong> process of<br />
making.<br />
“Drunken noodles got <strong>the</strong>ir name after a long night of drinking, because you are hungry, and ei<strong>the</strong>r you or<br />
<strong>the</strong> street food vendors can take whatever is on hand and throw it toge<strong>the</strong>r for a quick, hearty meal. But it has<br />
to be spicy,” Tran winks, adding a ladle of dark liquid.<br />
“The combination of soy and dark soy is like a Thai mo<strong>the</strong>r sauce,” she says. “The dark soy is thick, salty, and a little<br />
sweet. It adds great umami, but you can’t use much of it because it is so rich. You have to cut it with regular soy. This is<br />
<strong>the</strong> basic sauce for Pad Kee Mao. Add some palm sugar and tamarind paste and you have <strong>the</strong> basic sauce for Pad Thai. There<br />
is no substitute for dark soy.”<br />
She tosses in a few broccoli florets, slivers of carrot, and chopped cabbage. “You can use any kind of vegetable or protein, <strong>the</strong>re is no rule.”<br />
She deftly plates <strong>the</strong> steaming noodles, topping <strong>the</strong>m with a few sprigs of Thai basil, fried garlic, and some hot chiles. “That’s it. Done.”<br />
The entire wok-frying process takes less than 10 minutes.<br />
WATCH CHEF TRAN<br />
MAKE PAD KEE MAO,<br />
TOM YUM NAM KHON,<br />
AND PAD THAI ON<br />
EDIBLE SAN DIEGO TV AT<br />
EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM.<br />
“I have to admit, when I crave Thai, I usually go to my friend’s restaurant Sabai Sabai in Oceanside. So when I started thinking about<br />
sharing classic rice noodle recipes, I called her for help,” she laughs. “It was good. It reminded me how easy our food is to make. Anyone<br />
can do it, and it doesn’t take a lot of time, but you do need to have <strong>the</strong> right ingredients.”<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County is spoiled with Asian grocery stores, where it is easy to stock up on pantry staples like oyster sauce, nam prik pao (Thai<br />
roasted chile paste), palm sugar, and rice noodles. We even have locally grown galangal available at <strong>the</strong> Chino Family Farm Vegetable Shop<br />
and ethically sourced proteins <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> likes of Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, Catalina Offshore Products, Da Le Ranch, and Three<br />
Sons Farm. And any of <strong>the</strong> dishes can be made vegetarian by swapping in more veggies or tofu and using mushroom-based fish and oyster<br />
sauces.<br />
With a few Thai pantry staples on hand, and a little time spent chopping, homestyle Thai noodle dishes take less time to make than<br />
ordering takeout.<br />
10 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 11
EATING WELL |<br />
| EATING WELL<br />
12 Thai Pantry Staples<br />
Soy Sauce and Dark Soy Sauce<br />
Chef Tran says <strong>the</strong>re is no substitute for<br />
thick, slightly sweet, super-rich dark soy<br />
sauce. Typically it’s too strong to be used<br />
on its own, so you’ll want to have some<br />
regular soy sauce on hand to cut it with.<br />
Oyster Sauce<br />
Yes, it actually is made <strong>from</strong> oyster juice,<br />
along with some sugar, salt, and soy<br />
sauce. It has a caramelized flavor that is a<br />
bit sweet and salty, and it adds depth, but<br />
not fishiness, to dishes.<br />
Fish Sauce<br />
Fish sauce is made by salting and<br />
fermenting fish, which leads to an umamirich,<br />
salty, earthy, slightly funky taste that<br />
is an essential flavor note in Sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
Asian cooking. Don’t skip it and don’t sniff<br />
it. Trust us.<br />
Nam Prik Pao<br />
This roasted chile paste is made by dry<br />
roasting chiles and garlic and simmering<br />
<strong>the</strong>m with shrimp paste, tamarind, fish<br />
sauce, and a little palm sugar. The fiery<br />
blend can be used as a condiment or added<br />
by <strong>the</strong> spoonful to Thai dishes as <strong>the</strong>y cook.<br />
Galangal<br />
Nope, it isn’t just a different name for<br />
ginger, though <strong>the</strong> roots are related.<br />
Compared to ginger, galangal has a slightly<br />
spicier bite and is less sweet when cooked.<br />
You can store fresh galangal in <strong>the</strong> freezer<br />
in an airtight bag for up to two months.<br />
Tamarind Paste<br />
Tran explains that in Thai cooking,<br />
tamarind paste is preferred over vinegar<br />
and citrus as <strong>the</strong> main source of sour flavor<br />
because it is more subtle. You can find<br />
tamarind pods in many Asian grocers, as<br />
well as blocks of <strong>the</strong> paste with <strong>the</strong> seeds<br />
still intact, but to make <strong>the</strong> watery puree<br />
needed for Thai cooking, <strong>the</strong> seeds need<br />
to be removed and <strong>the</strong> flesh soaked in<br />
hot water and pushed through a sieve.<br />
Alternatively, you can simply buy a jar of<br />
Thai-style tamarind paste, which is ready<br />
to go.<br />
Palm Sugar<br />
Do not use regular white sugar in Thai<br />
cooking. Just don’t do it. Palm sugar is<br />
made <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> sap of <strong>the</strong> coconut palm<br />
tree and is minimally processed for a flavor<br />
that is less sweet and more complex. In a<br />
pinch, <strong>the</strong> closest substitute is light brown<br />
sugar.<br />
Tom Yum Soup Base<br />
Chef Tran sees this convenience product<br />
as worth its weight in gold. Packed with<br />
galangal, lemongrass, palm sugar, chiles,<br />
tamarind, and o<strong>the</strong>r Thai seasonings, <strong>the</strong><br />
cost of <strong>the</strong> inputs is much higher than <strong>the</strong><br />
cost per bottle. Plus it makes cooking Tom<br />
Yum soup an easy weeknight undertaking.<br />
Lemongrass<br />
This ingredient adds a beautiful citrus scent<br />
and subtle flavor to dishes. To release <strong>the</strong><br />
most flavor, be sure to bruise or slightly<br />
crush <strong>the</strong> stalk before cooking. You’ll want<br />
firm stalks with fat, rounded bottoms,<br />
and be aware that you will only be using<br />
<strong>the</strong> white (bottom) portion of <strong>the</strong> stalk for<br />
cooking. You can freeze sliced lemongrass,<br />
or <strong>the</strong> whole stalk, just be sure to trim off<br />
<strong>the</strong> root ends and leaves first.<br />
Kaffir Lime Leaves<br />
The essential oils in kaffir lime leaves add<br />
a pungent, citrus aroma to soups and<br />
curries. The thick leaves hold up when<br />
simmered whole and are typically removed<br />
before serving, though you can shred <strong>the</strong>m<br />
into small strips and eat <strong>the</strong>m.They freeze<br />
well in an airtight bag.<br />
Thai Coconut Milk<br />
Thai coconut milk is basically <strong>the</strong><br />
equivalent of canned coconut cream. It has<br />
a much thicker texture and richer flavor<br />
than <strong>the</strong> watery coconut milks often found<br />
in <strong>the</strong> grocery store. Look for a Thai brand<br />
and opt for carton ra<strong>the</strong>r than can when<br />
available.<br />
Rice Noodles<br />
Traditionally, thin rice noodles are used for<br />
Pad Thai and added to Tom Yum soup, while<br />
wide rice noodles are used for Pad Kee<br />
Mao. These naturally gluten-free noodles<br />
cook very fast and need only be softened<br />
before adding to your wok or pot where<br />
<strong>the</strong>y will finish cooking. Chef Tran warns<br />
that most people use too many noodles<br />
when making Thai dishes, so it’s better<br />
to use about a quarter of what you think<br />
you’ll need.<br />
How to Prep thin Rice Noodles for Wok Frying and Soups<br />
1. Place<br />
noodles<br />
in a large<br />
bowl and<br />
cover with<br />
plenty of<br />
hot water.<br />
2. Soak<br />
for 15<br />
minutes<br />
and quickly<br />
Rinse with<br />
cold water.<br />
3. Use<br />
noodles in wok<br />
recipe Or soup.<br />
Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles)<br />
with Chicken<br />
SERVES 6–8<br />
SAUCE<br />
¼ cup soy sauce<br />
1 tablespoon oyster sauce<br />
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce<br />
1 ½ tablespoons brown sugar<br />
½ tablespoon fish sauce<br />
1 teaspoon chile oil or crushed dried chile (optional)<br />
NOODLES<br />
2 pounds wide rice noodles<br />
2 eggs<br />
2 teaspoons soy sauce<br />
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into thin strips<br />
1 tablespoon cornstarch<br />
3 tablespoons vegetable oil<br />
4 cloves garlic, minced<br />
½ yellow onion, chopped<br />
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped<br />
1 jalapeño, seeded and cut into very thin strips (optional)<br />
1 bunch scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces (keep <strong>the</strong> white/light<br />
green and dark green parts separate)<br />
½ cup thinly sliced bamboo shoots (optional)<br />
1 cup Thai basil leaves (or substitute regular basil)<br />
Make <strong>the</strong> sauce: Whisk all ingredients toge<strong>the</strong>r in a small<br />
bowl and set aside.<br />
Warm <strong>the</strong> noodles: If you’re using fresh noodles, place <strong>the</strong>m<br />
in a microwave-safe bowl, cover <strong>the</strong>m with a slightly damp<br />
paper towel, and microwave for 2 minutes. They should feel<br />
very flexible once you pull <strong>the</strong>m out. Separate <strong>the</strong> noodles<br />
into a bowl and set aside.<br />
Recipe continues on page 14<br />
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12 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 13
EATING WELL |<br />
| EATING WELL<br />
Tom Yum Nam Khon is a<br />
popular version of Tom Yum<br />
soup with <strong>the</strong> addition of<br />
shrimp and coconut milk.<br />
HUNGRY FOR<br />
MORE?<br />
READY TO SERVE<br />
Garnish Thai dishes with extra<br />
dried chiles, slices of galangal,<br />
kaffir lime leaves, and stalks of<br />
lemongrass. They help infuse<br />
deeper levels of flavor and boost<br />
visual appearance but should not<br />
be eaten.<br />
Pad Kee Mao continued...<br />
Whisk toge<strong>the</strong>r eggs and soy sauce in a<br />
small bowl and set aside. In ano<strong>the</strong>r bowl,<br />
mix <strong>the</strong> chicken with cornstarch until all<br />
<strong>the</strong> pieces are coated. Set aside.<br />
Heat a large wok or skillet over mediumhigh<br />
heat. Add <strong>the</strong> oil and garlic, stirring<br />
constantly for 30 seconds until <strong>the</strong> garlic<br />
is barely golden brown. Don’t walk away<br />
because garlic burns quickly! Once <strong>the</strong><br />
garlic is just turning golden brown, add<br />
chicken and use a wooden spoon to<br />
distribute chicken in an even layer over<br />
<strong>the</strong> bottom of <strong>the</strong> pan. Cook, stirring<br />
frequently, until <strong>the</strong> chicken is golden<br />
brown, 3 to 5 minutes.<br />
Lower <strong>the</strong> heat slightly and move <strong>the</strong><br />
chicken and garlic to one side of <strong>the</strong> pan.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> exposed side, pour in <strong>the</strong> egg and<br />
soy sauce mixture. Allow <strong>the</strong> eggs to cook<br />
for 2 to 3 minutes until set, <strong>the</strong>n break up<br />
<strong>the</strong> eggs into pieces with a spoon, and<br />
stir everything back toge<strong>the</strong>r. Add <strong>the</strong><br />
onion, bell pepper, jalapeño (if using),<br />
and <strong>the</strong> white and light green parts of <strong>the</strong><br />
scallions. Cook until <strong>the</strong> veggies start to<br />
soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add noodles to<br />
<strong>the</strong> pan with <strong>the</strong> sauce, Thai basil, dark<br />
green parts of <strong>the</strong> scallions, and bamboo<br />
shoots. Cook, stirring occasionally,<br />
until <strong>the</strong> noodles have absorbed all <strong>the</strong><br />
sauce, about 2 more minutes. Serve<br />
immediately.<br />
Pad Thai<br />
SERVES 4<br />
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken<br />
breasts, cut into ½-inch pieces<br />
1 tablespoon cornstarch<br />
1 teaspoon baking powder<br />
1 cup vegetable oil, divided<br />
1 pound thin rice noodles<br />
½ cup tamarind purée<br />
½ cup palm sugar<br />
4 tablespoons fish sauce<br />
2 tablespoons soy sauce<br />
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce<br />
4 eggs<br />
3 tablespoons rice vinegar<br />
1 cup chicken stock<br />
2 cups bean sprouts<br />
1 cup sliced scallions<br />
½ pound fried tofu, cut into 2-inch pieces<br />
GARNISH<br />
4 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts<br />
4 lime wedges<br />
4 tablespoons crushed dried chile<br />
In a large bowl, mix chicken, cornstarch,<br />
baking powder, and 2 tablespoons<br />
vegetable oil; marinate for 10 minutes.<br />
Place noodles in a large bowl and pour<br />
over plenty of hot water to cover. Soak<br />
for 15 minutes, <strong>the</strong>n quickly rinse in cold<br />
water.<br />
Prepare <strong>the</strong> sauce by mixing tamarind<br />
purée, palm sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce,<br />
and dark soy sauce in a saucepan over<br />
medium heat and boil until it thickens,<br />
about 2 minutes.<br />
Heat 5 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large<br />
nonstick pan over high heat. Add egg and<br />
scramble for 1 minute. Add chicken and<br />
cook about 2 minutes, or until chicken and<br />
egg is about 80% cooked. Add noodles<br />
and scramble until soft.<br />
Add sauce, vinegar, and chicken stock<br />
and mix toge<strong>the</strong>r well. Add bean sprouts,<br />
scallions, and tofu, stirring occassionally<br />
for 2 more minutes until everything is<br />
incorporated.<br />
Garnish with crushed peanuts and serve<br />
immediately with lime wedges on <strong>the</strong><br />
side, along with crushed dried chile if you<br />
like it spicy.<br />
Tom Yum Nam Khon<br />
SERVES 4<br />
1 pound thin rice noodles<br />
2 ½ cups chicken stock<br />
3 tablespoons tom yum paste<br />
2 stalks lemongrass, white part only,<br />
pounded and bruised<br />
6 kaffir lime leaves, bruised<br />
5 thin slices fresh galangal<br />
6 ounces medium-sized shrimp, shelled<br />
and deveined<br />
4 white mushrooms, quartered<br />
3 tablespoons nam prik pao (Thai<br />
roasted chile paste)<br />
1 tablespoon fish sauce, or to taste<br />
¼ cup canned coconut milk<br />
3 tablespoons lime juice<br />
Cilantro leaves, for garnish<br />
Place noodles in a large bowl and pour<br />
over plenty of hot water to cover. Soak<br />
for 15 minutes, <strong>the</strong>n quickly rinse in<br />
cold water.<br />
While noodles are soaking, bring<br />
chicken stock to a boil in a large pot.<br />
Add tom yum paste, lemongrass,<br />
kaffir lime leaves, and galangal<br />
and boil for 1 minute. Add shrimp,<br />
mushrooms, and nam prik pao.<br />
Continue boiling until <strong>the</strong> shrimp are<br />
cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir<br />
in fish sauce and coconut milk. Turn<br />
off <strong>the</strong> heat and add noodles and lime<br />
juice. Stir to combine well. Garnish<br />
with cilantro, ladle broth over top, and<br />
enjoy.<br />
We publish new seasonal<br />
recipes every week. Get<br />
inspired at ediblesandiego.com.<br />
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14 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 15
GROWING GOOD |<br />
| GROWING GOOD<br />
TRUE HEIRLOOMS<br />
BY MARIA HESSE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />
The Vegetable Shop at Chino Family Farm<br />
doesn’t open until 10am, but crowds begin<br />
to swell much earlier. The cash-only farm<br />
stand has plenty to choose <strong>from</strong>, and <strong>the</strong><br />
dizzying number of varieties exhibit what’s<br />
truly in season in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> moments between <strong>the</strong> ebb and flow of<br />
<strong>the</strong> market, Makoto Chino asks if anyone has a<br />
recipe to recommend. He’s planning an elaborate<br />
dinner party for nine. “What are you making?”<br />
I ask before he rapidly fires back with a list of<br />
complex dishes that I can’t conceive of making on<br />
a weeknight. Given <strong>the</strong> collection of signatures<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> notable chefs that have ga<strong>the</strong>red on<br />
<strong>the</strong> farm’s kitchen wall, it’s not a surprise that his<br />
culinary interests are advanced beyond my limited<br />
practice of using olive oil, acid, salt, and pepper on<br />
everything.<br />
Still, of all <strong>the</strong> renowned chefs that visit <strong>the</strong><br />
farm, Makoto says, “It’s just as exciting to have<br />
someone come and recognize things like hoja<br />
santa or winged beans that <strong>the</strong>y haven’t seen since<br />
<strong>the</strong>y left <strong>the</strong>ir hometown in Thailand.”<br />
For <strong>the</strong> 29-year-old, food defines family. “Food<br />
for me has such an emotional impact,” Makoto<br />
says. “It reminds me of home and family. When<br />
people see <strong>the</strong>se things, it reminds <strong>the</strong>m of home.”<br />
So much so that his parents had to ship vegetables<br />
to him when he went to college at Washington<br />
University in St. Louis, followed by law school<br />
at UCLA. “There are people who say it’s not<br />
summertime unless <strong>the</strong>y have Chino Farm corn.<br />
They come <strong>from</strong> Arizona and Texas to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
in <strong>the</strong> summer, and it’s not <strong>the</strong>ir summertime<br />
until <strong>the</strong>y get our corn.”<br />
The Vegetable Shop is <strong>the</strong> farm’s retail point<br />
of operation, and it’s a sensory experience with<br />
homespun charm where tables, boxes, and shelves<br />
are rife with alluring hues and herbaceous aromas.<br />
“The only thing that we have here that we don’t<br />
grow ourselves are <strong>the</strong> oranges,” explains Makoto.<br />
“They’re <strong>from</strong> an old family friend that used to<br />
have a citrus farm who now has 10 trees for us,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>y only grow for us. He leaves [<strong>the</strong> oranges]<br />
on <strong>the</strong> tree for a year so <strong>the</strong>y get super sweet.”<br />
The 45-acre working farm, which lies within<br />
eyesight of <strong>the</strong> farm stand, is intensely rustic, with<br />
hoop houses, overgrown row crops, berry bushes,<br />
and small groves of fig and apple trees. When<br />
Chino Family Farm was started by Makoto’s<br />
grandparents Junzo and Hatsuyo over 70 years<br />
ago, <strong>the</strong>re was no such thing as organic certified<br />
farming practices, only doing what was right for<br />
<strong>the</strong> quality that <strong>the</strong>y wished to produce. This<br />
practice is what has been handed down to four of<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir nine children: Makoto’s fa<strong>the</strong>r Tom manages<br />
<strong>the</strong> farm with his bro<strong>the</strong>rs Fred and Frank and<br />
sister Kazumi.<br />
Makoto, whose name means “truthfulness”<br />
in Japanese, grew up on <strong>the</strong> farm. His earliest<br />
memory is of his mom yelling at him and one of<br />
<strong>the</strong> farm’s loyal Jack Russell terriers biting her in<br />
his defense when he was three or four. He started<br />
working <strong>the</strong>re when he was eight, and aside <strong>from</strong><br />
two younger cousins that work at <strong>the</strong> farm during<br />
<strong>the</strong> summer, he’s <strong>the</strong> only member of <strong>the</strong> third<br />
generation working at <strong>the</strong> farm full-time for <strong>the</strong><br />
foreseeable future.<br />
With Makoto’s unofficial role being house<br />
council and assistant manager, growing practices<br />
are admittedly not his field of expertise. Still, after<br />
working primarily in <strong>the</strong> field for more than half<br />
his life, and <strong>the</strong> past few years in <strong>the</strong> Vegetable<br />
Shop, Makoto understands <strong>the</strong> challenges that lie<br />
ahead and <strong>the</strong> value of <strong>the</strong> farm’s prestige.<br />
As is <strong>the</strong> case with many farms in <strong>the</strong> region,<br />
water is an increasing hardship. They grow, in<br />
part, with well water but pay residential water<br />
rates on supplemental sources. For this, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is no agricultural subsidy and <strong>the</strong> cost of water<br />
means <strong>the</strong>y “just get destroyed,” Makoto says.<br />
“And it’s getting worse and worse because <strong>the</strong>re’s<br />
salt intrusion <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean. Water prices are<br />
huge, and our water is sometimes four times more<br />
expensive than in o<strong>the</strong>r places.”<br />
Additional concerns come with managing new<br />
state labor regulations. “Farm workers used to be<br />
overtime exempt in California, and that’s about<br />
to end. So <strong>the</strong>y’ll get paid time and a half for<br />
overtime,” says Makoto. “A big farm can switch<br />
farm workers between farms to work around this,<br />
but something small like this, where everyone<br />
requires specialized knowledge and it’s a yearround<br />
operation, it’s really going to hurt small<br />
farms.”<br />
Makoto refers to <strong>the</strong> farm’s employees with<br />
respect, noting that many of <strong>the</strong> seasonal migrant<br />
farmers <strong>from</strong> Oaxaca have worked <strong>the</strong> farm for 30<br />
years, and some of <strong>the</strong>ir fa<strong>the</strong>rs were even <strong>the</strong>re<br />
before <strong>the</strong>m. The specialized knowledge doesn’t<br />
end in <strong>the</strong> field, however: Some of <strong>the</strong> familiar<br />
faces at <strong>the</strong> farm stand have been answering<br />
question and sharing recommendations on how to<br />
eat <strong>the</strong> unique heirlooms and varietals for decades.<br />
Preserving this level of expertise is fundamental<br />
to <strong>the</strong> farm’s success as <strong>the</strong> number of fruits and<br />
vegetables cultivated every year is staggering.<br />
“I think we grow maybe 60 types of fruits and<br />
vegetables. That being said, of <strong>the</strong> types of<br />
vegetables, this year we have 150 varieties of<br />
tomatoes, five different varieties of strawberries, 30<br />
varieties of squash, and 25 micro[green] varieties,”<br />
says Makoto.<br />
Additionally, <strong>the</strong> farm keeps on top of culinary<br />
trends with newly developed crops. “Every year,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re’s at least three new things. This year, <strong>the</strong> hot<br />
thing is hot peppers that have been bred so <strong>the</strong>y<br />
have no heat. You get all <strong>the</strong> flavor of <strong>the</strong>m but<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are really good for aguachiles or if you are<br />
trying to control <strong>the</strong> spiciness of your salsa. They’re<br />
cool. There’s <strong>the</strong> Habanada, it’s like <strong>the</strong> habanero<br />
without <strong>the</strong> heat, and <strong>the</strong> Trinidad Perfume that’s<br />
like <strong>the</strong> Trinidad Scorpion. We also have <strong>the</strong><br />
peach-colored raspberries that are new this year,<br />
and we brought back <strong>the</strong> Alpine berries that we<br />
haven’t had in like 15 years,” explains Makoto. The<br />
proficiency <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> devoted staff is not only key<br />
to cultivation, but also in informing consumers—<br />
<strong>from</strong> acclaimed restaurants to <strong>the</strong> curious passerby.<br />
They’re introducing beehives to <strong>the</strong> fields,<br />
and will continue offering special events at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Vegetable Shop (in <strong>the</strong> past <strong>the</strong>y’ve had<br />
cookbook signings with notable chefs like Yotam<br />
Ottolenghi, Jacques Pépin, and Sean Brock).<br />
They also sell curated specialty items, baked<br />
goods <strong>from</strong> Wayfarer Bread in Bird Rock, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> newer offering of Cafe Nōjō cold brewed<br />
or hot coffee brewed with exclusive beans <strong>from</strong><br />
Manzanita Coffee Roasters. It’s all enough to keep<br />
people lined up six days a week. “We have loyal<br />
customers, and <strong>the</strong>y want us to exist,” Makoto<br />
says.<br />
Tom, who says he’s done enough media this<br />
year and doesn’t believe in advertising, websites,<br />
or social media, graces <strong>the</strong> Vegetable Shop in our<br />
presence long enough to confirm that we have<br />
sweet potatoes, pumpkins and hard squashes,<br />
lettuces, greens, broccoli, cauliflower, and<br />
cucumbers to look forward to this season.<br />
I ask Makoto what he wants people to know<br />
about <strong>the</strong> farm. “It’s a philosophy that I’ve learned<br />
<strong>from</strong> my parents: If you’re doing something to get<br />
rich, you’re doing something for <strong>the</strong> wrong reason.<br />
If your primary incentive is to make money, you’re<br />
going to cut corners,” he shares.<br />
Such ideology is an example of <strong>the</strong> quiet and<br />
humble passion that keeps <strong>the</strong> Chino Family Farm<br />
thriving. It’s a difference that “hopefully you can<br />
taste,” Makoto says. s<br />
» chinofamilyfarm.com<br />
16 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 17
| FEATURE<br />
Tasting<br />
Notes<br />
BY PAUL HORMICK<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARRISON LINSEY<br />
AND REBECCA MATAYOSHI<br />
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18 ediblesandiego.com<br />
In <strong>the</strong> shade of a magnolia tree,<br />
just as <strong>the</strong> first course is served—a peach and brie vol-au-vent—<strong>the</strong><br />
enchanting strains of a quartet makes its way to <strong>the</strong> tables and diners. The<br />
mid-20th-century bassoon piece is lively and fun, and <strong>the</strong> same can be said of<br />
<strong>the</strong> pastry: A finger food that is savory and tart at <strong>the</strong> same time. This is Dually<br />
Noted, synergizing music and dining into a new experience.<br />
Rebecca Matayoshi established Dually Noted three years ago as a way to<br />
create a dining experience in which all <strong>the</strong> courses are prepared to perfectly<br />
complement <strong>the</strong> music of <strong>the</strong> evening. “I like food, and I love music,” she says.<br />
“This was a way that I could engage my passions.”<br />
To create a Dually Noted event, Matayoshi, a violist with <strong>the</strong> Hawaii<br />
Symphony and an acting section violist with <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Symphony, works<br />
with a classical musician who chooses a musical program. The music is <strong>the</strong>n<br />
presented to a chef, who creates a meal to reflect <strong>the</strong> feeling and mood of <strong>the</strong><br />
pieces chosen for <strong>the</strong> evening.<br />
This evening, during <strong>the</strong> main course, <strong>the</strong> music is for bassoon and<br />
prerecorded tape, a piece quite modern and worthy of serious listening.<br />
The music zigs and zags, and so does <strong>the</strong> food. The chef, Yara Lamers, says,<br />
“Tonight’s <strong>the</strong>me is American Summer, so I chose something very American:<br />
chicken and gravy. But <strong>the</strong>re were twists and turns with <strong>the</strong> music, so I threw<br />
in some twists and turns with <strong>the</strong> food. I thought, ‘How can I make you feel a<br />
surprise with <strong>the</strong> food?’ I wanted a familiar American feel, but a new America<br />
as well.”<br />
Matayoshi emphasizes <strong>the</strong> creativity of each Dually Noted event. “A chef<br />
may train for years, going to culinary school, working as a sous chef, and wind<br />
up working in a restaurant where <strong>the</strong> menu is already set. Musicians train for<br />
years, go to conservatory, and as symphony players don’t choose what <strong>the</strong>y<br />
play. This is a chance for musicians to choose <strong>the</strong> music that <strong>the</strong>y play. And it’s<br />
similar for <strong>the</strong> chefs that we work with.”<br />
Dually Noted occurs on a Monday every o<strong>the</strong>r month in an intimate house<br />
concert setting. Tickets are also available for those who want to listen to <strong>the</strong><br />
music without having dinner. The atmosphere is casual and comfortable:<br />
Tonight <strong>the</strong>re are plenty of cargo pants and Hawaiian shirts, and no high heels.<br />
Matayoshi takes all of <strong>the</strong> photos used on <strong>the</strong> website for Dually Noted, as<br />
photography is ano<strong>the</strong>r one of her passions. The Chicago native knew that she<br />
wanted to become a musician when she performed a concerto with her youth<br />
orchestra and realized <strong>the</strong> power that music has to move people. “After <strong>the</strong><br />
performance, some people told me that <strong>the</strong>y cried,” she says. She landed her<br />
first job with an orchestra performing in Osaka, Japan. “The experience helped<br />
to show me who I was,” she says. “Here, I’m seen as Asian. There, I was seen as<br />
an American.”<br />
Matayoshi says that folks can expect more than great food and music if <strong>the</strong>y<br />
attend a Dually Noted event: “They will be immersed in a unique social and<br />
sensory experience, meeting people <strong>the</strong>y may have never crossed paths with<br />
and absorbing music and food at <strong>the</strong> highest level. Whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y are familiar<br />
with <strong>the</strong> music and food is less relevant, it’s <strong>the</strong> manner of presentation that<br />
makes it special and memorable.” s<br />
» duallynoted.org<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 19
FEATURE |<br />
| FEATURE<br />
TOP TO BOTTOM:<br />
PRISSANA “FERN” TRAN;<br />
NINO CAMILO; KAZUHIRO<br />
FUNATO AND TAKERU<br />
FURUYA; TONY NGUYEN<br />
ASIAN-ISH<br />
Bowls of rice porridge<br />
spark animated discussion about <strong>the</strong> comforting<br />
versions that span <strong>East</strong> Asian cultures. It’s called<br />
congee in China, dakjuk in Korea, and on this<br />
particular morning, chef-partner Prissana ‘Fern’<br />
Tran presents a version that’s made its way to<br />
<strong>the</strong> menu at The Florence in Sabre Springs.<br />
Filled with chicken broth, ginger, a sous vide<br />
egg, chicken meatball, scallions, spicy chile oil,<br />
and cilantro, it’s an elevated version of what<br />
Tran grew up eating <strong>from</strong> street vendors in<br />
Thailand. The porridge transports everyone<br />
around <strong>the</strong> table back to early food memories.<br />
A diverse group of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s chefs and food<br />
influencers including Hawaiian Fresh Seafood<br />
ambassador Nino Camilo, Kazuhiro Funato<br />
and Takeru Furuya <strong>from</strong> UMI Restaurant,<br />
Tony Nguyen of Supernatural <strong>San</strong>dwiches, and<br />
Tran have ga<strong>the</strong>red to discuss Asian cuisine and<br />
culture in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />
Orange chicken and California rolls are<br />
easily recognized as “Asian cuisine,” but <strong>the</strong>y<br />
offer little resemblance to traditional fare. It’s<br />
easy to disregard such hybridized dishes, and<br />
<strong>the</strong>se examples show <strong>the</strong> impacts Asian cuisine<br />
has had in shaping <strong>the</strong> new American palate.<br />
Without <strong>the</strong> spices, ideas, and techniques that<br />
immigrated to <strong>the</strong> United States with previous<br />
generations, dishes and flavors that we’ve come<br />
to crave would be far less accessible, interesting,<br />
and diverse.<br />
Asians came to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> for different<br />
reasons, some families fleeing war and poverty<br />
across <strong>the</strong> world’s largest ocean. According to<br />
Elsa Sevilla at <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> History Center,<br />
Asian immigration in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> started in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1880s. Immigrants brought very little<br />
or nothing at all and faced many hardships.<br />
“They became accomplished in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />
fishing, farming, and o<strong>the</strong>r industries with <strong>the</strong><br />
economic boom of <strong>the</strong> 1880s. Local businesses<br />
and housing markets were rapidly growing, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> transcontinental railroad in National City<br />
needed workers to lay thousands of miles of<br />
track,” Sevilla explains.<br />
Filipino students came to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> State<br />
University under an education program in <strong>the</strong><br />
early 1900s. Some stayed and took jobs on<br />
local farms or worked in downtown restaurants<br />
as busboys and cooks, but <strong>the</strong>y were restricted<br />
to live and work in specific areas on Market<br />
Street and in sou<strong>the</strong>astern <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. Japan’s<br />
Meiji Restoration during <strong>the</strong> 1850s forced<br />
thousands to first migrate to Hawaii to work on<br />
pineapple plantations, followed by a migration<br />
to California after Hawaii became part of <strong>the</strong><br />
US in 1898. In 1905, nearly 1,000 Koreans<br />
left <strong>the</strong>ir country for Mexico under a four-year<br />
program to work on haciendas. Some of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
descendants made <strong>the</strong>ir way to Tijuana and <strong>San</strong><br />
<strong>Diego</strong>, creating a distinctly Mexican-Korean-<br />
American culture.<br />
For second-generation Asian Americans, <strong>the</strong><br />
dishes and comfort foods of childhood are often<br />
different than those of <strong>the</strong>ir parents who grew<br />
up in ano<strong>the</strong>r country. Nguyen was born and<br />
raised in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> to parents who immigrated<br />
BY MICHELLE STANSBURY<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES TRAN<br />
to <strong>the</strong> US <strong>from</strong> Vietnam in <strong>the</strong> first wave of<br />
refugees after <strong>the</strong> war. His parents met stateside<br />
while staying in a temporary refugee settlement<br />
at Camp Pendleton, and were proud to raise<br />
Nguyen on American food. “My parents tried<br />
to give me <strong>the</strong> American experience by making<br />
me home-cooked meals like meatloaf, lasagna,<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r American fare. They also took me<br />
to a lot of American restaurants and fast food<br />
joints. The food I cook and eat reflects both<br />
identities in some ways, but for <strong>the</strong> most part<br />
my cooking is based on my experiences trying<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r cuisines like Chinese, Japanese, Korean,<br />
Laotian, and Thai. This is reflected through<br />
<strong>the</strong> ingredients on my menu and creations,”<br />
Nguyen says.<br />
Nguyen has gained success by introducing<br />
Asian flavors to American staples at<br />
Supernatural <strong>San</strong>dwiches. Take, for example,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Kaiju sandwich, which turns <strong>the</strong> American<br />
lobster roll on its head by stuffing it with<br />
Cantonese-style lobster and serving it with<br />
togarashi shrimp chips. Nguyen shares how<br />
he gets his ideas: “I like going to all <strong>the</strong> Asian<br />
markets. I like walking down all <strong>the</strong> aisles<br />
and looking at every single ingredient. It gets<br />
my creative juices flowing. It all inspires me.<br />
Asian food is about depth of flavor—a little bit<br />
of acid, sweet, sour, and bitterness. So many<br />
complexities open your palate. There are so<br />
many levels of flavor.”<br />
Tran shares platters of chicken wings<br />
smo<strong>the</strong>red in a zesty sauce infused with a<br />
combination of Korean- and Thai-inspired<br />
flavors, alongside bowls of kimchi fried rice. “I<br />
don’t believe Asian food in America needs to be<br />
restricted to being specialized. It’s a free country,<br />
do what inspires you,” she explains with a smile.<br />
Camilo casts <strong>the</strong> concept of fusion in a<br />
new light, saying that au<strong>the</strong>nticity is about<br />
understanding <strong>the</strong> history of a cuisine<br />
and learning about its evolution. Modern<br />
interpretations of traditional dishes can<br />
be incredible, but creativity comes <strong>from</strong><br />
understanding <strong>the</strong>ir provenance. Camilo<br />
provides an example: “Within Filipino cuisine,<br />
<strong>the</strong> history of <strong>the</strong> culture and <strong>the</strong> influences in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Philippines [comes <strong>from</strong>] Spanish, Mexican,<br />
Chinese, and Muslim [cultures]. For standout<br />
dishes that come <strong>from</strong> actual restaurants, try<br />
<strong>the</strong> pig ear sisig <strong>from</strong> chef DJ Tangalin at Gaya<br />
Gaya. SNOICE also does a great job of serving<br />
halo-halo, a traditional dessert served in a shop<br />
with modern-style branding.”<br />
Reflecting back on how much Asian cuisine<br />
has changed since he was a child, Camilo<br />
describes Convoy Street as trendy. "Growing<br />
up, we would go take grandma shopping, and<br />
it was always on Convoy or at Vien Dong.<br />
Now, everyone thinks those places are cool!<br />
And I don’t have to be ashamed to put kimchi<br />
on <strong>the</strong> table anymore, everyone wants kimchi<br />
now. Even my gas station in Cardiff carries<br />
Kikkoman soy sauce.”<br />
Camilo shares that since Filipino food hasn’t<br />
reached a cult following in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> (yet), he<br />
sees <strong>the</strong> evolution most clearly represented in<br />
<strong>the</strong> poke bowl trend he’s helped to promote. “I<br />
feel that for some poke shop owners, <strong>the</strong>ir first<br />
experience of a poke bowl was not in Hawaii,<br />
it was in California—or maybe elsewhere.<br />
So now <strong>the</strong>y are thinking that is poke.” The<br />
problem is not adapting poke to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
produce or tastes, it’s when a cultural food<br />
trend accelerates so quickly that purveyors<br />
who lack ties to <strong>the</strong> cuisine appropriate a dish<br />
without understanding <strong>the</strong> historical identity<br />
of <strong>the</strong> flavors, <strong>the</strong> components, and <strong>the</strong> cultural<br />
experience of consuming <strong>the</strong> dish.<br />
For Funato, preserving and presenting<br />
au<strong>the</strong>nticity renews focus. At UMI, <strong>the</strong> physical<br />
mastery of techniques is just as important<br />
as <strong>the</strong> mental understanding of a cuisine. In<br />
Japan, routine kitchen tasks like making rice or<br />
cutting fish are elevated to an art form. Chefs<br />
often spend years mastering <strong>the</strong> craft of <strong>the</strong>se<br />
essential components of Japanese cuisine before<br />
beginning to innovate.<br />
Although <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> has an incredible<br />
selection of local fresh fish, Funato only serves<br />
fish that is prepared ikejime. He has not been<br />
able to find fish processed at a quality to his<br />
liking locally, so Funato imports <strong>the</strong> fish <strong>from</strong><br />
Japan, where ikejime is executed with such<br />
attention to detail as to not allow heat <strong>from</strong><br />
hands to warm <strong>the</strong> fish. The live fish is placed<br />
on a sponge mat to keep <strong>the</strong> fish calm, pH<br />
levels are kept balanced, and, most notably, a<br />
steel spike is quickly and humanely inserted<br />
into <strong>the</strong> brain and spinal cord, producing<br />
improved fillets with longer shelf life and a<br />
brilliant umami flavor that sets it apart.<br />
While some Japanese restaurants serve miso<br />
soup without much attention, UMI prepares<br />
it with great care. Funato shares, “When we<br />
make miso soup, first we make dashi soup to<br />
make umami and <strong>the</strong>n put miso after. This is<br />
<strong>the</strong> traditional way to make miso soup. There<br />
is so much time spent on each menu item. For<br />
example, we have a menu item called sliced<br />
pork fillet that takes us almost 30 hours to<br />
make. This item looks simple, but <strong>the</strong>re is so<br />
much time we put into it, and love too.”<br />
In order to keep tradition alive at UMI,<br />
Funato brought in head chef Furuya, also <strong>from</strong><br />
Tokyo, to lead an all-Japanese kitchen staff.<br />
Furuya’s family, still in Japan, manufacturers <strong>the</strong><br />
ramen noodles that <strong>the</strong>y use at UMI. “All of us<br />
in <strong>the</strong> kitchen grew up with Japanese food and<br />
culture, which is hard to learn. We want to keep<br />
real au<strong>the</strong>ntic Japanese foods alive in North<br />
County and hopefully educate about what real<br />
au<strong>the</strong>ntic Japanese foods are.”<br />
Au<strong>the</strong>nticity, <strong>the</strong>n, isn’t so much about<br />
traditional interpretations of dishes, but more<br />
so about maintaining a respect for <strong>the</strong> cuisine<br />
that transcends trends. Chefs get inspiration<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir families, upbringing, and memories<br />
of childhood dishes, and make <strong>the</strong>m a part of<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> foodscape. Each dish shares <strong>the</strong><br />
story of who <strong>the</strong>y are, influences <strong>the</strong> regional<br />
culinary journey, inspires us to learn about<br />
tradition, seek out richer flavors, and enrich our<br />
culture. s<br />
20 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 21
| FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS<br />
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An Officer and a Director<br />
BY BETH DEMMON<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES TRAN<br />
According to Vince Hall, CEO of Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, our city doesn’t have a<br />
food shortage problem. That’s because 40% of <strong>the</strong> food in <strong>the</strong> county gets<br />
thrown away every day, which is “more than enough to solve <strong>the</strong> problem of<br />
hunger,” says Hall. Instead, “We have a food distribution problem,” Hall says.<br />
Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is <strong>the</strong> county’s leading hunger relief agency that works<br />
to alleviate food insecurity in <strong>the</strong> region by rescuing food <strong>from</strong> over 500<br />
locations. They <strong>the</strong>n redistribute it—up to 85% of which is fresh, healthy<br />
produce—to key places where food insecurity is most prominent.<br />
Over 400,000 people in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County alone are classified as “food<br />
insecure,” which is defined as having a lack of available financial resources for<br />
food on a regular or sporadic basis. But <strong>the</strong>re’s a difference between a feeling of<br />
hunger and <strong>the</strong> long-term implications of food insecurity, a point that Hall is<br />
quick to identify.<br />
“No one is just hungry,” says Hall. “Hunger is always accompanied by o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
economic challenges.”<br />
When <strong>the</strong> deadly Hepatitis A outbreak that claimed 20 lives in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
spread through <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s homeless population in 2017, thousands of people<br />
already struggling with lack of housing, healthcare, and o<strong>the</strong>r social services<br />
found <strong>the</strong>mselves in an especially vulnerable situation. That’s when Feeding<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> teamed up with Lucky Duck Foundation to provide easier access to<br />
resources.<br />
“It is a privilege to work with an organization that prides itself on<br />
maximizing resources, teamwork, and helping those in need,” says Drew<br />
Moser, executive director at Lucky Duck Foundation. Moser immediately saw<br />
<strong>the</strong> benefit of joining forces with a logistics operation that harbored a similar<br />
capacity for empathy. By leveraging Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s already-established<br />
distribution network, Lucky Duck is now better able to give support to those<br />
most affected by economic challenges.<br />
Both Moser and Hall lament that <strong>the</strong> conversations around <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />
homeless population (which Hall calls a “humanitarian crisis”) tend to get<br />
caught up in <strong>the</strong> debate about affordable housing. Moser hopes that by<br />
partnering with more rescue programs like Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, <strong>the</strong>y’ll be able<br />
to demonstrate moral and financial value to policymakers when it comes to<br />
addressing homelessness.<br />
“There is a critical need for affordable housing and temporary shelter beds<br />
in our region. By increasing strategic partnerships through some of <strong>the</strong> rescue<br />
programs that Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> offers, significant savings have been realized.<br />
Yet, we believe <strong>the</strong>re is still much room to grow and savings to be realized,<br />
which is something we focus on daily,” says Moser.<br />
Like Moser, Hall is glad to have found a like-minded group to help tackle<br />
22 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 23
FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS |<br />
<strong>the</strong> most immediate needs <strong>San</strong> Diegans without housing face every day.<br />
“What I admire about Dan [Shea, on <strong>the</strong> board of directors of Lucky Duck<br />
Foundation] and <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> crew at Lucky Duck is <strong>the</strong> ability to not see<br />
it as a choice between building housing and providing shelter, but as a moral<br />
imperative that we do both,” says Hall.<br />
By joining up with Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, Moser says that <strong>the</strong>y’ve been able<br />
to distribute over 1,500 community care kits so far, which are backpacks filled<br />
with “items such as hygiene kits, sweatshirts, sweatpants, socks, stocking caps,<br />
shower shoes, water and snacks, and o<strong>the</strong>r necessities.”<br />
Despite <strong>the</strong> progress <strong>the</strong>y’ve made toge<strong>the</strong>r, Hall admits it can seem like<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are up against overwhelming odds. With <strong>the</strong> help of Lucky Duck<br />
Foundation, he hopes to remove some of <strong>the</strong> stigma behind <strong>the</strong>se issues.<br />
“The reality is that <strong>the</strong>se people can be helped,” says Hall. “What I love<br />
about organizations like Lucky Duck Foundation is that <strong>the</strong>re’s an underlying<br />
respect for <strong>the</strong> inherent humanity of every human being, and that everybody is<br />
entitled to be treated with dignity and respect.” s<br />
LOCAL FISH FROM<br />
LOCAL FISHERMEN<br />
Fresh Local Seafood on<br />
<strong>the</strong> docks in Point Loma<br />
1403 Scott Street,<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
619-222-8787<br />
www.mitchsseafood.com<br />
HOW CAN YOU HELP?<br />
DONATE MONEY<br />
DONATE TIME<br />
DONATE FOOD AND CLOTHING<br />
ATTEND FUNDRAISING EVENTS<br />
WRITE TO POLITICAL LEADERS<br />
BECOME ADVOCATES IN YOUR COMMUNITY<br />
FOLLOW LUCKY DUCK FOUNDATION AND<br />
FEEDING SAN DIEGO ON SOCIAL MEDIA AND<br />
SIGN UP FOR THEIR EMAIL NEWSLETTERS<br />
24 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 25
STAYCATION |<br />
| STAYCATION<br />
Island<br />
Escape<br />
STORY AND<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS<br />
BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />
T<br />
he bridge connecting <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> to Coronado is<br />
only two miles long, but once you’re on <strong>the</strong> pristine<br />
island it feels like you’ve traveled much fur<strong>the</strong>r. Travel a few<br />
miles down Orange Avenue to find <strong>the</strong> historic Hotel Del<br />
Coronado. The 131-year-old icon that began as a modern<br />
marvel of its time now lives on as a reminder of <strong>the</strong> past,<br />
but that’s not to say it isn’t thinking about <strong>the</strong> future.<br />
With enticing amenities, thoughtful dining additions, and<br />
property expansions in <strong>the</strong> works, <strong>the</strong>re will always be a<br />
reason to return to The Del when you want to get away.<br />
Make a Stay of It<br />
The bright sun, sand, and exterior of <strong>the</strong> hotel are starkly<br />
contrasted inside by <strong>the</strong> dimly lit chandelier and dark wood<br />
paneling of <strong>the</strong> lobby. Victorian details, like <strong>the</strong> gold-caged<br />
elevator, are irresistible, and it isn’t hard to imagine why<br />
royalty, celebrities, and locals alike have aspired to stay at<br />
<strong>the</strong> property for more than a century. While <strong>the</strong> rooms are<br />
updated, <strong>the</strong>y still embrace <strong>the</strong> hotel’s original character—<br />
and with more than 700 rooms on <strong>the</strong> property, each one<br />
has its own unique charm.<br />
Chill Out<br />
If you’re looking to be pampered,<br />
head to <strong>the</strong> Spa and Salon at The<br />
Del. Its infinity pool peering into<br />
<strong>the</strong> Pacific may be reason enough<br />
to book an appointment, but<br />
<strong>the</strong>re’s still more inside if you need<br />
convincing. Separate lounges for<br />
men and women each offer a hot<br />
tub, steamroom, showers, and<br />
lockers, making it <strong>the</strong> perfect home<br />
base for <strong>the</strong> day. Treat yourself<br />
to a nourishing wildflower facial<br />
with organic botanicals, like <strong>the</strong><br />
deeply aromatic Blueberry Detox<br />
Stimulation Masque. Looking for<br />
something even more chill? Try a<br />
CBD-infused massage, pedicure,<br />
or facial to take <strong>the</strong> edge off. Once<br />
you’re truly relaxed, hang by <strong>the</strong><br />
pool or wander to <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Find Beachside Bliss<br />
The Del’s beachside options make<br />
it an obvious choice for visitors<br />
and locals year-round. Lounge<br />
in style on a shaded daybed or<br />
rent sand chairs and umbrellas to<br />
spend your beach day closer to <strong>the</strong><br />
shoreline. You’ll find <strong>the</strong> Beach<br />
Shack a few steps away serving<br />
cocktails, beer, wine, and freshly<br />
made tacos. Why not embrace<br />
<strong>the</strong> island life and order a Double<br />
Sesh, a sweet-and-sour cocktail<br />
blended with ice and served in a<br />
fresh pineapple—perfect for two.<br />
Stroll a few steps more and you’ll<br />
find On <strong>the</strong> Rocks, The Del’s<br />
recently opened food truck and<br />
beverage trailer on <strong>the</strong> boardwalk.<br />
Choose walk-up or sit-down<br />
service and settle into a game of<br />
giant Jenga with a gourmet beach<br />
salad and side of Moroccan loaded<br />
fries.<br />
And Dinner with a View<br />
Serẽa is <strong>the</strong> property’s newest dining destination.<br />
Its white walls are softened with peach and blue<br />
accents that flow <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> indoor dining room<br />
to <strong>the</strong> patio. Soft booths, a fireplace, and muted<br />
lighting invite you to stay a while. Executive chef<br />
Jojo Ruiz, a 2019 James Beard Foundation Smart<br />
Catch Leader, created Serẽa's Mediterraneaninspired<br />
menu to highlight local ingredients.<br />
Sustainable seafood sourcing is a priority at<br />
Serẽa, with fresh catch <strong>from</strong> Tuna Harbor<br />
Dockside Market, Catalina Offshore Products,<br />
and Baja California’s Pacifico Aquaculture<br />
appearing on <strong>the</strong> menu. Plus, <strong>the</strong> restaurant<br />
recently earned its Surfrider Ocean Friendly<br />
Restaurant certification. Select a few starters to<br />
share like <strong>the</strong> refreshing local halibut ceviche<br />
with coconut, lime, and chile, and beef carpaccio<br />
with manchego cheese, watercress pesto, and 20-<br />
year aged balsamic. Then step inside to choose<br />
a fish <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> open seafood display before it’s<br />
wood-grilled and filleted tableside.<br />
This staycation is so dreamy, you'll be in danger<br />
of forgetting that <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is across <strong>the</strong> bay.<br />
LACE UP YOUR SKATES<br />
Head to The Del’s beachfront<br />
when it’s transformed into<br />
an ice skating rink benefiting<br />
Make-A-Wish <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
<strong>from</strong> November 22, 2019<br />
through January 5, 2020.<br />
MORE TO LOOK<br />
FORWARD TO<br />
The Del is in <strong>the</strong> midst of a<br />
property-wide revitalization<br />
known as The Master Plan<br />
that will enhance and<br />
preserve its existing features<br />
while expanding its offerings.<br />
Look for 150 additional<br />
rooms, underground parking,<br />
a refreshed landscaped<br />
entry, and a state-of-<strong>the</strong>art<br />
conference room to be<br />
completed late 2021.<br />
26 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 27
PARTNER CONTENT |<br />
| PARTNER CONTENT<br />
NEIGHBORHOOD<br />
DINING GUIDE<br />
The Neighborhood Dining Guide celebrates<br />
locally owned restaurants passionate about<br />
local sourcing and <strong>the</strong> Ocean Friendly<br />
Restaurant (OFR) program created by<br />
Surfrider Foundation <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County,<br />
which incentivizes and recognizes eateries<br />
across <strong>the</strong> country that uphold specific<br />
environmentally friendly practices. Enjoy a<br />
delicious meal and make sure to tell <strong>the</strong>m that<br />
<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sent you!<br />
NORTH COUNTY<br />
A.R. VALENTIEN<br />
11480 North Torrey Pines Rd.<br />
La Jolla • 858-453-4420<br />
lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien<br />
The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant, A.R.<br />
Valentien, highlights regional <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> cuisine served in an<br />
elegant, timbered indoor-outdoor dining room overlooking<br />
<strong>the</strong> 18th hole of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef<br />
Jeff Jackson sources only <strong>the</strong> best local provisions, and <strong>the</strong><br />
menu changes frequently based on seasonal fare available.<br />
The restaurant takes its name <strong>from</strong> a talented early-<br />
20th-century California artist whose works are exhibited<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> restaurant.<br />
ESCOGELATO<br />
122 South Kalmia St.<br />
Escondido • 760-745-6500<br />
escogelato.com<br />
Located in <strong>the</strong> heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is made<br />
fresh daily using <strong>the</strong> highest quality ingredients and<br />
fresh fruit sourced <strong>from</strong> local farmers. The result is a<br />
luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s full of flavor. You<br />
will taste <strong>the</strong> difference. In addition to <strong>the</strong> main event,<br />
enjoy a nice selection of paninis, soups, salads, coffee,<br />
and tea.<br />
MISSION BEACH<br />
OCEANA COASTAL<br />
KITCHEN<br />
3999 Mission Blvd.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-539-8635<br />
catamaranresort.com/dining-entertainment/oceana-san-diego-restaurant<br />
Oceana Coastal Kitchen features chef-driven California<br />
cuisine and a modern, ocean-inspired design. Oceana<br />
offers bay-front dining at an iconic Pacific Beach hideaway.<br />
Executive chef Steven Riemer’s playful interpretations of<br />
classic dishes highlight <strong>the</strong> purity and flavors of California<br />
local produce and a commitment to sustainable ingredients.<br />
A cold bar with sushi options, small bites, and main dishes<br />
includes <strong>the</strong> freshest seafood available <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> coast of Baja<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Pacific.<br />
SOULSHINE VEGAN CAFE<br />
3864 Mission Blvd.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-886-7252<br />
soulshinemb.com<br />
At Soulshine Vegan Cafè, we value <strong>the</strong> innate connection<br />
between our community and our earth. By choosing<br />
a plant based and organic menu, we support <strong>the</strong><br />
regeneration of marine life and restoration of our<br />
ecosystem. Stop by our location in <strong>the</strong> heart of Mission<br />
Beach and enjoy menu options highlighting locally<br />
sourced ingredients and healthy, feel-good fare. OFR<br />
POINT LOMA<br />
SOLARE<br />
2820 Roosevelt Rd.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-270-9670<br />
solarelounge.com<br />
Solare is an au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
restaurant with a special focus on sou<strong>the</strong>rn Italy and Sicily<br />
featuring a menu made with fresh ingredients selected<br />
daily. Blending modern and traditional tastes, <strong>the</strong> results<br />
are light and healthy dishes brimming with natural flavors.<br />
Complement your meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> cellar or 30 wines by <strong>the</strong> glass. Solare is committed<br />
to serving <strong>the</strong> cuisine of today, created with all <strong>the</strong> love<br />
and attention to detail <strong>from</strong> generations past.<br />
MITCH’S SEAFOOD<br />
1403 Scott St.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-222-8787<br />
mitchsseafood.com<br />
Established in 2008 by three<br />
families with a long history of<br />
fishing in <strong>the</strong> Point Loma area of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, Mitch’s<br />
Seafood specializes in fresh seafood <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> waters off <strong>San</strong><br />
<strong>Diego</strong>. Located on <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s working waterfront with a<br />
view of <strong>the</strong> fishing fleet, <strong>the</strong> restaurant focuses on simply<br />
prepared, California-style seafood and offers a selection<br />
of craft beer and wine sourced <strong>from</strong> local <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> and<br />
California purveyors.<br />
CENTRAL<br />
WILD THYME CATERING<br />
7163 Construction Ct. Suite B<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-527-0226<br />
<strong>the</strong>wildthymecompany.com<br />
With an innovative and fresh approach<br />
to catering, The Wild Thyme Company raises<br />
<strong>the</strong> bar for off-premise catering in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. They have<br />
an extensive and diverse epicurean background within<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir culinary management team and appreciate any opportunity<br />
to research and prepare various types of cuisine<br />
across <strong>the</strong> board. The Wild Thyme Company was founded<br />
on Mediterranean and Coastal California fare, giving <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
menus a fresh, farm-to-table feel.<br />
NORTH PARK / KENSINGTON<br />
TIGER!TIGER! TAVERN<br />
3025 El Cajon Blvd.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-487-0401<br />
tigertigertavern.blogspot.com<br />
The atmosphere at Tiger!Tiger! is<br />
casual and cool with an urban vibe.<br />
From its signature wood-fired oven<br />
in <strong>the</strong> dining room comes roasted<br />
oysters and well-made sandwiches.<br />
The seating is communal and <strong>the</strong> beer list is lengthy. A<br />
chalkboard features <strong>the</strong> wide variety of brews, complete<br />
with craft descriptions and alcohol content. The 60-ounce<br />
pitcher for $16 is a major deal. OFR<br />
BLIND LADY ALE<br />
HOUSE<br />
3416 Adams Ave.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-255-2491<br />
blindlady.blogspot.com<br />
Nothing goes toge<strong>the</strong>r better than<br />
a pint and a slice. Blind Lady<br />
excels at both. The pizza offerings<br />
range <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> classic margherita<br />
to creative options like <strong>the</strong> house chorizo with poblano<br />
chiles, fontina, epazote, and cotija. While <strong>the</strong> pizza is <strong>the</strong><br />
headliner, expect a variety of brewpub snacks like Belgian<br />
frites and spicy beer nuts. OFR<br />
POINTS EAST<br />
GARDEN KITCHEN<br />
4204 Rolando Blvd.<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-431-5755<br />
gardenkitchensd.com<br />
Located in <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
neighborhood of Rolando, this<br />
healthy farm-to-table restaurant<br />
satisfies all tastes, <strong>from</strong> vegan to vegetarian to meat<br />
lovers. All meals are served outside on a lovely covered<br />
patio with a casual, dog-friendly atmosphere. The menu<br />
changes regularly because each day it’s crafted <strong>from</strong><br />
scratch using local, farm-fresh ingredients. Their cooking<br />
style reflects a love of all flavors, colors, cuisines, and<br />
cultures.<br />
TECATE, MEXICO<br />
LA COCINA QUE CANTA<br />
Cooking School at Rancho La Puerta<br />
rancholapuerta.com/<strong>the</strong>-ranch/la-cocina-que-canta<br />
Set in <strong>the</strong> heart of Rancho La Puerta’s six-acre farm, La<br />
Cocina Que Canta (The Kitchen That Sings) celebrates<br />
<strong>the</strong> magical results of cooking with just-picked organic<br />
ingredients. The colors, aromas, and tastes that emanate<br />
<strong>from</strong> La Cocina are nothing short of amazing. Ranch<br />
guests can join three cooking classes a week hosted by<br />
internationally renowned guest chefs and cookbook<br />
authors. Check Rancho La Puerta’s events calendar for<br />
details.<br />
PHOTO COURTESY SOULSHINE VEGAN CAFE<br />
MADE IN<br />
SAN DIEGO<br />
This guide features diverse <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />
companies that produce or sell specialty<br />
foods, wellness products, and lifestyle services<br />
with artisanal quality, integrity, creativity, and<br />
innovation. Look for discount codes offered<br />
exclusively for <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> readers and<br />
support <strong>the</strong>se passionate local business owners<br />
and makers.<br />
BOOTSTRAP KOMBUCHA<br />
4085 Pacific Hwy. #105B<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-683-3490<br />
bootstrapkombucha.com<br />
Bootstrap Kombucha was founded in <strong>the</strong><br />
Point Loma area in 2015 to provide <strong>the</strong> city<br />
of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> with an au<strong>the</strong>ntic craft kombucha<br />
brewed using traditional methods. No<br />
syrups, no artificial flavors, no added sugars, no shortcuts….Bootstrap<br />
Kombucha uses only high quality real organic ingredients to craft a truly<br />
superior product that is perfectly balanced, crisp, clean, and refreshing.<br />
CHARLIE AND ECHO<br />
8680 Miralani Dr. #113<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 877-592-9095<br />
charlieandecho.com<br />
We’re an urban winery in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> producing creative, craft wine –<br />
mostly sparkling—<strong>from</strong> local vineyards. We use natural fermentation<br />
and minimal intervention. We’re small, independent, innovative, and care<br />
about everything we make.<br />
CHEF JENN COOKS<br />
jenn@chefjenncooks.com<br />
858-212-9054<br />
chefjenncooks.com<br />
Chef Jenn, owner and executive<br />
chef of Chef Jenn Cooks is an<br />
engaging speaker and a talented personal chef. She crafts dinner parties,<br />
retreats and cooking classes using ingredients <strong>from</strong> local farms and<br />
businesses. Chef Jenn specializes in small- and medium-sized parties,<br />
creating delicious menus for any dietary needs.<br />
CLAY AND CRAFT<br />
810 N. Coast Hwy. 101<br />
Encinitas<br />
clayandcraft.com<br />
CLAY + CRAFT is on a mission to<br />
celebrate <strong>the</strong> handmade, encourage<br />
creativity, and champion modern<br />
artisan culture. Visit <strong>the</strong> part studio / part store to shop <strong>the</strong> collection of<br />
modern ceramics, handcrafted by owner Nicole Novena. Or, enjoy a dose<br />
of creative self care. Take a turn at <strong>the</strong> wheel and play with clay.<br />
COCONUT CULTURE<br />
getcoconutculture.com<br />
Coconut Culture yogurt is a plant-based<br />
yogurt that is good for your gut and good<br />
for your soul. That’s because we use<br />
no dairy, no gums, no added sugars, no<br />
preservatives, nothing artificial! Instead<br />
you’ll get tummy-friendly probiotics,<br />
healthy fats <strong>from</strong> coconuts, and pure<br />
creamy deliciousness.<br />
CORDIAL ORGANICS<br />
hello@cordialorganics.com<br />
cordialorganics.com<br />
We are a <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> company that<br />
makes small-batch, handcrafted beauty and wellness products infused<br />
with <strong>the</strong> power of CBD. <strong>Edible</strong> readers will especially enjoy our awardwinning<br />
bitters. Receive 15% off with <strong>the</strong> coupon code EDIBLE15 at<br />
checkout and feel <strong>the</strong> difference CBD can make in your life.<br />
DEXTER’S DELI<br />
2508 El Camino Real #B-2<br />
Carlsbad • 760-720-7507<br />
dextersdeli.com<br />
Neighborhood Natural pet store. Helping pet parents think outside <strong>the</strong><br />
bag with <strong>the</strong> best in local, natural, high-quality foods, treats, toys and<br />
supplements for both dogs + cats. For more than 20 years, we have<br />
helped make little miracles happen by helping pets thrive.<br />
DRIANA FOODS<br />
drianafoods.com<br />
Inspired by <strong>the</strong> flavors of Spain, Driana Foods<br />
created a cooking paste called Mojos, or<br />
“sofrito,” that can be used to add depth and<br />
flavor to your cooking. It's vegan, gluten-free,<br />
and handcrafted with vegetables <strong>from</strong> local<br />
farmers. Use in soups and stews, or toss on roasted veggies, pastas,<br />
and more. Let our cooking pastes be your paintbrushes to create your<br />
own unique dishes and ease your daily cooking. To learn more and<br />
get delicious recipes, visit our website and follow us on Instagram @<br />
drianafoods and on Facebook @drianafoods.<br />
GYPSY CRUMBS<br />
951-970-0448<br />
gypsycrumbs.com<br />
@gypsycrumbs<br />
A handcrafted line of raw, plant-based<br />
vegan desserts that are free of gluten,<br />
dairy, soy, and refined sugars. We’re<br />
committed to using ingredients that<br />
are organic, nutrient dense, and locally sourced that nourish and fuel<br />
our bodies. Focusing on delicious and wholesome goodness, we’re on<br />
a mission to change <strong>the</strong> way people think about (and crave) healthy<br />
desserts.<br />
KASSI<br />
GRUNDER<br />
JEWELRY<br />
kassigrunder.com<br />
High vibration jewelry to<br />
align you with your highest<br />
purpose. Handmade with<br />
intention for courageous seekers, visionaries, and bringers of light. What’s<br />
to love: There’s something for every jewelry lover, ranging <strong>from</strong> minimalist<br />
and super dainty to bold and dramatic. Free domestic shipping with<br />
code EDIBLE.<br />
KEYS CREEK<br />
LAVENDER FARM<br />
kclfarm.com<br />
Keys Creek Lavender Farm<br />
is <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>'s only USDA<br />
certified organic lavender farm. Nestled in <strong>the</strong> foothills of a beautiful<br />
serene valley, we are 40 minutes <strong>from</strong> downtown <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. Enjoy a<br />
countryside getaway in our Airbnb or host your next event here. Our<br />
lavender products are handcrafted with organic essential oil and made<br />
here at <strong>the</strong> farm.<br />
LĒNUS HANDCRAFTED<br />
619-200-4266<br />
shoplenus.com<br />
LĒNUS Handcrafted is a local skincare<br />
company where original formulas are<br />
blended by hand in fresh batches. It was<br />
established in 2014 in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, by a former model, designer, and mom<br />
with a lifelong passion for natural living. This exclusive botanical skincare<br />
is available online directly <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> maker.<br />
NORTH COUNTY OLIVE<br />
OILS<br />
155 Quail Gardens Dr.<br />
Encinitas • 760-518-5161<br />
northcountyoliveoil.com<br />
Offering 100% California-grown extra-virgin<br />
olive oils, fresh balsamic vinegar, and local<br />
artisan goods. Visit <strong>the</strong> storefront for a<br />
complimentary tasting, create a holiday gift set, or an olive oil class inside<br />
Sunshine Gardens, Encinitas. Find us at <strong>the</strong> Leucadia and Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta<br />
Fe farmers' markets.<br />
THE POPULIST<br />
760-707-7580<br />
The Populist handcrafts delicious vegan<br />
popsicles <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> best organic produce in<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. Grab one at <strong>the</strong> Leucadia farmers'<br />
market or call us to order for your next event!<br />
Follow us on Instagram @populistpops.<br />
THE PRIMITIVE WAFFLE<br />
760-587-7967<br />
<strong>the</strong>primitivewaffle.com<br />
The Primitive Waffle, Inc. specializes in grain-free<br />
and vegan wholefood waffles that are so versatile,<br />
you can eat <strong>the</strong>m at every meal. You will enjoy our<br />
amazingly delicious waffles as if you have made <strong>the</strong>m right in your own<br />
home. Our waffles are YOUR waffles. Enjoy!<br />
QUANTUM MICROGREENS<br />
farmer@quantummicrogreens.com<br />
619-488-2167<br />
quantummicrogreens.com<br />
We grow our Microgreens outside with help <strong>from</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sun, in a soil mix…naturally. The<br />
soil mix is coconut coir with seaweed extract and<br />
perlite or vermiculite. We specialize in living trays, this way you have a<br />
supreme product with ideal nutrition, optimum flavor, and longer lasting<br />
freshness.<br />
SANA’S KITCHEN<br />
619-880-7262 • sanaskitchen.com<br />
At <strong>San</strong>a’s Kitchen our primary goal is to have<br />
100% plant-based, organic, kosher, nutritious<br />
products with minimal or no processing, no<br />
preservatives, chemicals, or additives of any kind.<br />
Additionally, in our fast-paced society we need<br />
foods that quickly and simply provide <strong>the</strong> nutrients we deserve.<br />
SUGA<br />
Suga.yoga<br />
Encinitas company Suga<br />
makes <strong>the</strong> world’s first<br />
recycled yoga mat. But get<br />
this—it’s made entirely out of<br />
recycled wetsuits. Suga reengineered <strong>the</strong> yoga mat to grip better and<br />
perform better, while solving a pressing environmental problem—how to<br />
recycle non-biodegradable neoprene surfing wetsuits.<br />
THE LOOSE LEAF<br />
looseleafblends.com<br />
@TheLooseLeafTea<br />
Herbal Blends | Community Driven ~<br />
Always using <strong>the</strong> finest organic, fair-trade<br />
certified ingredients, we know exactly<br />
what goes into our blends—and you know exactly what goes into your<br />
body. Sourcing <strong>the</strong> best ingredients, empowering our customer through<br />
knowledge, and cultivating a community is <strong>the</strong> blend that makes us The<br />
Loose Leaf.<br />
TREEHOUSE KITCHEN<br />
treehousekitchen.com<br />
Come enjoy <strong>the</strong> Treehouse Kitchen<br />
Creative Cooking experience! Join us in<br />
our unique and awe-inspiring modernindustrial<br />
kitchen and workspace for<br />
everything <strong>from</strong> World Cuisine Cooking Workshops to life-balancing yoga<br />
classes. Check out our schedule on our website and sign up for a class<br />
today. Use promo code ESD for 20% off!<br />
28 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 29
Monday<br />
Escondido—Welk Resort √†<br />
8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.<br />
3–7pm, year-round<br />
760-651-3630<br />
Tuesday<br />
Coronado √<br />
1st St. & B Ave., Ferry<br />
Landing<br />
2:30–6pm<br />
760-741-3763<br />
Escondido √*<br />
262 <strong>East</strong> Grand Ave.<br />
2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to<br />
May)<br />
760-480-4101<br />
Mira Mesa √*<br />
10510 Reagan Rd.<br />
2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √<br />
2015 Birch Rd. and <strong>East</strong>lake<br />
Blvd.<br />
4–8pm<br />
619-279-0032<br />
Pacific Beach Tuesday à<br />
Bayard & Garnet<br />
2–7pm<br />
619-233-3901<br />
People’s Produce Night<br />
Market √<br />
5010 Market St.<br />
5–8pm<br />
619-813-9148<br />
<strong>San</strong> Marcos NEW! √<br />
1035 La Bonita Dr.<br />
3–7pm<br />
858-272-7054<br />
UCSD Town Square √<br />
UCSD Campus, Town Square<br />
10am–2pm, Sept to June<br />
858-534-4248<br />
Vail Headquarters √*<br />
32115 Temecula Pkwy.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
Wednesday<br />
Little Italy Wednesday √*†<br />
501 W. Date St.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
619-233-3901<br />
Ocean Beach √<br />
4900 block of Newport Ave.<br />
4–8pm<br />
619-279-0032<br />
<strong>San</strong>tee *†<br />
Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.<br />
3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter)<br />
619-449-8427<br />
State Street in Carlsbad Village √<br />
State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.<br />
3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Temecula—Promenade √*<br />
40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
Thursday<br />
Lemon Grove √*<br />
2885 Lemon Grove Ave.<br />
3–7pm<br />
619-813-9148<br />
Linda Vista √*†<br />
6939 Linda Vista Rd.<br />
3–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />
760-504-4363<br />
North Park Thursday √*†<br />
2900 North Park Way<br />
3–7:30pm<br />
619-550-7180<br />
Oceanside Morning √*<br />
Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-791-3241<br />
Rancho Bernardo<br />
16535 Via Esprillo<br />
11am–1:30pm<br />
619-279-0032<br />
Friday<br />
Borrego Springs √<br />
700 Palm Canyon Dr.<br />
7am–noon, Oct to Apr<br />
760-767-5555<br />
Horton Plaza Lunch Market<br />
225 Broadway Circle<br />
11am–2pm<br />
619-795-3363<br />
Imperial Beach √*†<br />
10 Evergreen Ave.<br />
2–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />
info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.<br />
org<br />
La Mesa Village √*<br />
La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St.<br />
3–7pm, year-round<br />
619-795-3363<br />
LOCAL<br />
MARKETS<br />
Bernardo Winery √<br />
13330 Paseo del Verano Norte<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-500-1709<br />
Saturday<br />
City Heights √*†!<br />
Wightman St. btwn Fairmount &<br />
43rd St.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-504-4363<br />
Del Mar √<br />
1050 Camino Del Mar<br />
1–4pm<br />
858-465-0013<br />
Little Italy Mercato à<br />
600 W. Date St.<br />
8am–2pm<br />
619-233-3901<br />
Pacific Beach √<br />
4150 Mission Blvd.<br />
8am–noon<br />
760-741-3763<br />
Poway √*<br />
14134 Midland Rd.<br />
8am–1pm<br />
619-249-9395<br />
Rancho Penasquitos<br />
9400 Fairgrove Ln.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
858-484-8788<br />
Temecula—Old Town √*<br />
Sixth & Front St.<br />
Old Town<br />
8am–12:30pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
Tuna Harbor Dockside Market<br />
879 West Harbor Dr.<br />
Port of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
8am–1:00pm<br />
Vista √*†<br />
325 Melrose Dr.<br />
8am–12pm<br />
760-945-7425<br />
Sunday<br />
Hillcrest √*<br />
3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.<br />
9am–2pm<br />
619-237-1632<br />
La Jolla Open Aire √<br />
Girard Ave. & Genter<br />
9am–1:00pm<br />
858-454-1699<br />
Leucadia √*<br />
185 Union St. & Vulcan St.<br />
10am–2pm<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Murrieta √*<br />
Village Walk Plaza<br />
I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks &<br />
Kalmia<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
North <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> / Sikes Adobe<br />
à<br />
12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido<br />
10:30am–3:30pm<br />
858-735-5311<br />
Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta Fe Del Rayo<br />
Village √<br />
16077 <strong>San</strong> Dieguito Rd.<br />
9:30am–2pm<br />
619-743-4263<br />
<strong>San</strong>ta Ysabel √<br />
21887 Washington St.<br />
Noon–4pm<br />
760-782-9202<br />
Solana Beach √<br />
410 South Cedros Ave.<br />
Noon–4pm<br />
858-755-0444<br />
* Market vendors accept WIC<br />
(Women, Infants, Children)<br />
Farmers’ Market checks.<br />
† Market vendors accept EBT<br />
(Electronic Benefit Transfer).<br />
! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit<br />
and Vegetable checks.<br />
√ Indicates markets certified<br />
by <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />
Agriculture Commissioner,<br />
ensuring that <strong>the</strong> produce is<br />
grown by <strong>the</strong> seller or ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
certified farmer in California,<br />
and meets all state quality<br />
standards. Temecula markets<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Murrieta market are<br />
certified by <strong>the</strong> Riverside County<br />
Agricultural Commissioner.<br />
Visit ediblesandiego.com and click<br />
on “Resources” for more complete<br />
information and links to market<br />
websites.<br />
NOREEN KOMPANIK, CODY SMALL<br />
Check This Out<br />
BY NOREEN KOMPANIK<br />
EXPLORING SAN DIEGO’S<br />
CHINESE HISTORICAL MUSEUM<br />
From railroad building and gold<br />
mining to dominating <strong>the</strong> laundry<br />
industry, <strong>the</strong> Chinese community played<br />
a tremendous role in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s storied<br />
past.<br />
The <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Chinese Historical Museum,<br />
located in <strong>the</strong> heart of <strong>the</strong> Gaslamp Quarter,<br />
captures <strong>the</strong> essence of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s fascinating<br />
Chinese history. Its mission to collect,<br />
preserve, and display documents, artifacts,<br />
and photographs relevant to <strong>the</strong> Chinese<br />
and Chinese-American experience is well<br />
represented by its impressive exhibits. Displays<br />
include historical letters and photographs,<br />
archeological treasures of Old Chinatown,<br />
and scale models depicting <strong>the</strong> area’s heyday.<br />
Traditional Chinese carts and magnificent<br />
furnishings complement <strong>the</strong> cultural content.<br />
Relax in an impressive outdoor garden with<br />
waterfalls, and a meandering koi pond pays<br />
homage to <strong>the</strong> serenity and harmony of <strong>the</strong><br />
Chinese garden.<br />
The colorful “DRAGON”exhibition<br />
currently on display until <strong>the</strong> Chinese New<br />
Year explores <strong>the</strong> symbolism behind <strong>the</strong><br />
Chinese dragon. A myriad of historical artifacts<br />
celebrate <strong>the</strong> nobility, power, strength, and<br />
protection of this revered mythical creature.<br />
NOVEMBER<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Beer Week<br />
returns November 1–10 with<br />
hundreds of happenings<br />
honoring <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> craft<br />
beer. Highlights include <strong>the</strong><br />
Guild Fest on November 2<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Beer Garden at The<br />
Lodge at Torrey Pines on<br />
November 10.<br />
» sdbw.sdbeer.com<br />
Enjoy traditional, gourmet,<br />
and vegetarian tamales<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Escondido Tamale<br />
Festival on November 2 in<br />
Grape Day Park.<br />
» escondidotamalefestival.org<br />
The 20th annual <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
Asian Film Festival takes<br />
place November 7-16. Enjoy<br />
170 films <strong>from</strong> 29 countries<br />
in 40 languages across <strong>the</strong><br />
county.<br />
» sdaff.org/2019<br />
The <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Bay Wine<br />
& Food Festival returns<br />
November 10–17 with dozens<br />
of exciting events, including<br />
a culinary expedition to<br />
Baja hosted by chef Javier<br />
Plascencia on November 13<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Grand Tasting on <strong>the</strong><br />
Embarcadero on November<br />
16.<br />
» sandiegowineclassic.com<br />
Slurp steaming bowls<br />
of ramen to your heart’s<br />
content at <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
Ramen Festival on<br />
November 14 at <strong>the</strong> Port<br />
Pavilion on <strong>the</strong> Broadway<br />
Pier.<br />
» sdramenfest.com<br />
Celebrate cycling and craft<br />
beer with a 15- or 30-mile<br />
bike ride complete with<br />
refreshments at Bikes and<br />
Beers on November 16.<br />
» sdbikecoalition.org<br />
Local craft distilleries will<br />
pour samples and shake up<br />
cocktails at <strong>the</strong> happening<br />
Distillers Guild Fest,<br />
November 16 at Liberty<br />
| LOCAL ATTRACTIONS<br />
In Season<br />
BY CHRISTINE DIONESE<br />
Originally hailing <strong>from</strong> Asia,<br />
Fuyu persimmons are in season and<br />
ripen in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> <strong>from</strong> September<br />
to December. Sink your teeth into<br />
<strong>the</strong> sunburst-colored skin to reach a<br />
complex flavor reminiscent of pear,<br />
stone fruit, cinnamon, and toasted<br />
coconut sugar. You’ll find fans of <strong>the</strong> fruit savoring Fuyus straight out of hand; unlike o<strong>the</strong>r persimmon<br />
varieties, this non-astringent fruit is best to enjoy when it’s still firm. Get creative by slicing it into a mixed<br />
green salad with goat cheese and pine nuts or sear it on <strong>the</strong> grill before dicing into a festive salsa. If you’re<br />
so inclined, Fuyus mix up well in cocktails and mocktails too. Have a vegan in your life who loves sweets?<br />
The overripe Fuyu’s gelatinous center is perfect blended with chia seeds for a vegan pudding.<br />
Plus, <strong>the</strong> Fuyu is as healthy as it is tasty: Plant phenols, flavonoids, antioxidants, and a significant fiber<br />
content make <strong>the</strong> persimmon wonderful heart-healthy and cancer-preventive food <strong>the</strong>rapy.<br />
Events<br />
Station. The artisanal<br />
tasting event also features<br />
appetizers <strong>from</strong> <strong>San</strong><br />
<strong>Diego</strong> restaurants and a live<br />
jazz ensemble.<br />
» sddistillersguildfest.org<br />
DECEMBER<br />
December Nights at Balboa<br />
Park brings festive holiday<br />
cheer, with music and dance<br />
performances, international<br />
eats, and free admission<br />
to select museums on<br />
December 6 and 7.<br />
» sandiego.gov/decembernights<br />
Get into <strong>the</strong> holiday spirit<br />
with cocktail samples and<br />
bites <strong>from</strong> 20 restaurants at<br />
Toast of <strong>the</strong> Gaslamp on<br />
December 14.<br />
» toastofgaslamp.com<br />
Find more events online at ediblesandiego.com/event-list.<br />
30 ediblesandiego.com<br />
SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 31
PREP |<br />
Bibingka<br />
Ube<br />
BY NINO CAMILO<br />
T<br />
he union of sweet rice and<br />
coconut milk in almost<br />
any form is my favorite. This<br />
Filipino dessert is one my<br />
family always makes for garage<br />
parties and holidays. My mom,<br />
known by everyone as Aunty<br />
Gles, is <strong>the</strong> best home chef I<br />
know, and this is her version<br />
with a hint of ube (purple<br />
sweet potato) added for color<br />
and flavor.<br />
Bibingka Ube<br />
SERVES 8–10<br />
Cooking spray<br />
1 banana leaf, washed and dried<br />
1 cup glutinous rice flour<br />
1 cup sugar<br />
2 ½ teaspoons baking powder<br />
¹⁄ 8 teaspoon salt<br />
1 cup coconut milk<br />
¼ cup whole milk<br />
3 tablespoons unsalted butter,<br />
melted<br />
3 large eggs<br />
¹⁄ ³ cup ube halaya (ube jam—can be<br />
found at Filipino markets such as<br />
Seafood City)<br />
3 tablespoons condensed milk<br />
Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a<br />
9-inch baking pan with cooking<br />
spray and line with banana leaf. Trim<br />
<strong>the</strong> edges of <strong>the</strong> leaf so that it hangs<br />
over <strong>the</strong> pan by only an inch or 2,<br />
<strong>the</strong>n coat <strong>the</strong> leaf with more spray.<br />
In a large bowl, whisk toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong><br />
rice flour, sugar, baking powder, and<br />
salt.<br />
In a medium bowl, beat toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong><br />
coconut milk, whole milk, butter, and<br />
eggs until well combined.<br />
Slowly mix <strong>the</strong> wet ingredients into<br />
<strong>the</strong> dry ingredients, making sure <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are well incorporated.<br />
Pour batter into prepared pan. Drop<br />
ube halaya by <strong>the</strong> teaspoonful onto<br />
<strong>the</strong> batter and <strong>the</strong>n swirl with a<br />
butter knife, being careful not to rip<br />
<strong>the</strong> leaf on <strong>the</strong> bottom.<br />
Bake until a toothpick inserted into<br />
<strong>the</strong> center comes out clean, 50 to<br />
60 minutes. Let rest for about 5<br />
minutes before brushing <strong>the</strong> top<br />
with condensed milk.<br />
Cut into slices and serve warm or at<br />
room temperature.<br />
Visit 2020 Micro<br />
Roaster of <strong>the</strong> Year,<br />
Mostra Coffee, in<br />
Carmel Mountain<br />
and try <strong>the</strong> bibingka<br />
crème brûlée latte<br />
made with coconutinfused<br />
milk and a<br />
torched coconutsugar<br />
topping.<br />
JAMES TRAN
A family owned and operated fresh<br />
produce supplier, who continues to be<br />
a leader in service, product quality<br />
and technology.<br />
Take a tour<br />
7 Days A Week<br />
8 am to 5 pm<br />
https://sprod.co/tour<br />
4 ediblesandiego.com