Creative HEAD Christmas 2019
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£4.50 CHRISTMAS <strong>2019</strong><br />
It’s playtime!<br />
COLOUR TO THRILL EVERYONE THIS SEASON…
Tempting<br />
TRANSFORMATIONS<br />
WELLA PROFESSIONALS NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR<br />
OFFERS BEAUTIFUL COLOUR WITH MINIMAL COMMITMENT
No Strings Attached Colour from<br />
Wella Professionals allows you<br />
to transform your client in just<br />
10 minutes. Hair is infused using<br />
Koleston Perfect ME+ then deeply<br />
conditioned for a gorgeous finish.<br />
It’s the ultimate in cost-effective<br />
colour services, ideal for tempting<br />
the colour-shy or offering a twist on<br />
a regular client’s look.<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
Hair by Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK & Ireland technical director. Make-up by Lucy Flower. Styling by Clare Frith. Photography by Ben Ottewell<br />
“I love quick colour services as they<br />
open doors for so many types of<br />
clients. No Strings Attached Colour is<br />
quick, affordable and low commitment.<br />
Mixing is super-simple and it’s perfect<br />
for those who want to experiment as<br />
well as colour-shy clients you’ve been<br />
trying to win over, or even those in<br />
need of a quick colour refresh”<br />
ROBERT EATON,<br />
WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR<br />
1 part Koleston Perfect ME+<br />
1 part Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />
1 part INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />
Get the look<br />
STEP ONE – CHOOSE<br />
Choose your colour and shampoo the hair<br />
STEP THREE – MIX AND APPLY<br />
One part Koleston Perfect ME+, one part<br />
Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer,<br />
one part INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />
STEP TWO – SECTION<br />
Section the hair<br />
STEP FOUR – DEVELOP<br />
Develop for between five and 10 minutes<br />
FORMULATIONS<br />
FORMULA A<br />
● 9g Koleston Perfect ME+ 10/95+1g 0/65<br />
● 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />
● 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />
FORMULA B<br />
● 20g Koleston Perfect ME+ 10/95 full head and<br />
hairline<br />
● 20ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />
● 20ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />
FORMULA C<br />
@wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt<br />
● 10g Koleston Perfect ME+ 9/04<br />
● 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer<br />
● 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment<br />
ROB’S<br />
TOP TIP<br />
Leave a small section of the hairline to<br />
finish your application. This will create a<br />
point of interest and soften the result<br />
STEP FIVE – RINSE<br />
No need to shampoo, simply rinse and style<br />
Wella Professionals
Refresh<br />
FOR SUCCESS<br />
REINVIGORATE YOUR COLOUR MENU, LEARN NEW SKILLS AND ADVANCE<br />
YOUR COLOUR CREATIONS WITH THESE INSPIRING WELLA COURSES<br />
Colour Clinic<br />
Book in for an appointment to the Colour<br />
Clinic and enjoy an advanced craft session<br />
with a Wella technical educator to solve any<br />
colour conundrum you might have. The oneon-one<br />
sessions will diagnose and prescribe<br />
the perfect formula to help you create colour<br />
you can’t quite crack.<br />
HOW? Bring your client and complete the<br />
colour service at the Wella Studio and get<br />
bespoke recommendations and specific<br />
guidance for the perfect finish.<br />
WHO? Any confident stylist or colourist<br />
frustrated by a colour challenge they<br />
can’t overcome.<br />
Master Color Programme<br />
This course has transformed the lives of thousands of colourists across the<br />
globe, helping them grow their professional skills and business. It takes six to<br />
nine months to complete and is designed to elevate you from a good colourist<br />
to an industry-leading colour creative. Stretch your creative mind and gain<br />
practical skills to give your salon colour business a serious boost.<br />
HOW? It’s taught through a mix of face-to-face sessions<br />
with top educators supported by the innovative<br />
eEducation online platform.<br />
WHO? You need a minimum five years’ colour experience<br />
and to have completed Essential Colour, Corrective Colour<br />
and <strong>Creative</strong> & Freehand Colouring courses.
Dom Capel<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
Colour Genius<br />
This is an opportunity to push your creativity beyond its<br />
current limits and expand your skillset with of-the-moment<br />
techniques. Learn how to effectively match colour placement<br />
to haircut, face shape and skin tone and get to know the<br />
trending colour palettes to stay ahead of the competition.<br />
HOW? A two-day interactive course with head blocks as well<br />
as live models in interactive workshops.<br />
WHO? If you’re competent with colour but itching to challenge<br />
yourself then Colour Genius is for you.<br />
Leonardo Rizzo<br />
Jayson Gray<br />
Colour Masterclass<br />
This Master Craft course is all about exploring editorial colour.<br />
Think fashion-forward techniques from magazines and on<br />
stage. This is your opportunity to have your creativity sparked<br />
by top colourists including Clayde Baumann, Edward Darley,<br />
Robert Eaton, Siobhan Golden and Jayson Gray.<br />
HOW? A one-day course of interactive tutorials and<br />
demonstrations including workshops with live models.<br />
WHO? Anyone who is in need of some inspiration or those<br />
looking to move into more session or editorial work.<br />
VISIT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM OR CONTACT YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO FOR MORE INFORMATION
Fancy a<br />
CHANGE?<br />
NO STRINGS ATTACHED<br />
COLOUR IS SIMPLE.<br />
IN JUST THREE STEPS<br />
YOUR GUEST CAN HAVE<br />
EVERYTHING FROM A NEW<br />
COLOUR TO A REFRESH.<br />
BUT DON’T JUST TAKE OUR<br />
WORD FOR IT…<br />
“It’s an exciting<br />
opportunity to grow<br />
our business because<br />
not every client wants<br />
to commit – and not<br />
everyone has time!”<br />
LEANNE FERGUSON,<br />
STARLIGHT, INVERURIE<br />
“It’s given us an<br />
opportunity to attract<br />
younger clients with<br />
smaller budgets and<br />
more desire for colour<br />
experimentation”<br />
DYMPNA COYNE,<br />
BELLISSIMO, GALWAY<br />
“This service is sheer<br />
luxury for tired hair<br />
that’s lacking colour,<br />
shine and lustre.<br />
My team love<br />
getting involved!”<br />
SARAH MASON, SARAH MASON<br />
PROFESSIONAL, GALWAY<br />
DISCOVER HOW NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR CAN TRANSFORM YOUR BUSINESS AND THRILL CLIENTS.<br />
CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS SALES REP OR CALL YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO:<br />
LONDON – 020 3650 4700 MANCHESTER – 0161 8342645 DUBLIN – 01 416 0900<br />
@wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt<br />
Wella Professionals<br />
DISCOVER THE PRODUCTS AT UK.WELLASTORE.COM
CREATIVE<strong>HEAD</strong>MAG.COM<br />
MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> STORE COMPETITIONS<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Exploring the link between image and attitude, CHAINED<br />
by Alex Azurmendi evokes the spirit of Spain’s ‘cani’ culture<br />
In conversation with… Sarah Mason.<br />
Press play on the latest in our series of<br />
films, where we chat all things huerelated<br />
with Wella Guest Artists<br />
Get the date in your diary – The Coterie<br />
returns on 27 January 2020 with a<br />
London line-up hot enough to thaw<br />
even the most winter-numbed creativity<br />
Disappointing. Disrespectful. And<br />
downright sub-standard. Stay tuned on<br />
18 November as Ky Wilson opens the<br />
doors to a unique event…<br />
creativeheadmag.com<br />
creativeheadmagofficial<br />
@creativeheadmag
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Powered by lithium-ion, this cordless<br />
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FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES<br />
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IRELAND 018869300 Customerservice.ire@revlon.com<br />
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Editor’s letter<br />
62<br />
22<br />
73<br />
AS VITAL AS your creative and technical skills are, to be a<br />
successful hairdresser with a loyal clientele you need to be able to<br />
make a real connection. When clients are in your chair, they’re putting<br />
their trust in you (you’re the one holding the sharpened blades near their<br />
head, after all). An appointment at the salon is actually an incredibly intimate<br />
exchange, with long periods of time where your hands are physically on them,<br />
your eyes examining their face in the mirror. Build the right rapport, and it’s no<br />
surprise that many stylists become a trusted confidante. Our Most Wanted Best<br />
Salon Experience winner, Michael Van Clarke, excels at the personal touch, never<br />
one to say no (find out more on page 54). And it’s this trust, this relationship, that<br />
can help clients experiencing confidence issues due to thinning hair and hair loss,<br />
to share their worries and the impact it has on their wellbeing with you. On page<br />
56 we examine how you can repay that trust with the right advice, services,<br />
products and understanding, to help those clients suffering win back their<br />
smiles. Perhaps it’s an area for your team to build upon in 2020, and as<br />
you start the busiest of times in the salon, the team at <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
wishes you a merry <strong>Christmas</strong> and a prosperous New Year.<br />
Amanda Nottage<br />
Editor<br />
JOIN US!<br />
After a packed year of <strong>Creative</strong><br />
<strong>HEAD</strong> events, we thought<br />
why not round things off<br />
with Something substandard?<br />
An evening<br />
to underwhelm and<br />
unimpress in equal<br />
measure. And who<br />
better to mediate feelings<br />
of mediocrity than Ky<br />
Wilson. Bothered? Then<br />
head to page 50. On<br />
29 and 30 March 2020,<br />
our business networking<br />
event Salon Smart is back in<br />
London and this time the hot<br />
topic is progress! If you want to<br />
re-energise business body and<br />
mind, we suggest you secure<br />
your place now, turn to pages<br />
33 and 35 to 37. See more at<br />
creativeheadmag.com/events<br />
amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial<br />
@creativeheadmag
ASPhair.com
001 Outliers_Issue3_Cover_GW4.indd 1 10/10/<strong>2019</strong> 15:02<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong><br />
WHAT’S INSIDE<br />
66<br />
FASHION<br />
Christabel Legrand<br />
and Luka Chitty<br />
channel a future<br />
grunge aesthetic<br />
68<br />
54<br />
MICHAEL VAN CLARKE<br />
We talk to the salon supremo about how<br />
to make the most luxurious journey for<br />
your client<br />
SCENE<br />
Goldwell’s Global<br />
Zoom goes to<br />
Vienna, Aveda<br />
Worldhood 2.0<br />
begins and The<br />
Coterie heads<br />
to Liverpool<br />
ON THE COVER<br />
Hair by Robert Eaton for<br />
Wella Professionals<br />
Outliers<br />
THE<br />
The innovators and salons<br />
disrupting the status quo<br />
Issue 03/<strong>2019</strong><br />
EDITOR<br />
AMANDA NOTTAGE<br />
DEPUTY EDITOR<br />
DEBORAH MURTHA<br />
STAFF WRITER<br />
ANNA SAMSON<br />
COMMERCIAL EDITOR<br />
EVE WAGSTAFF<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
NICK JABBAL<br />
CHIEF SUB EDITOR<br />
ADAM WOOD<br />
DIGITAL DESIGNER<br />
EVA VESTMANN<br />
ONLINE AND<br />
DIGITAL ASSISTANT<br />
KELSEY DRING<br />
ONLINE AND<br />
DIGITAL EDITOR<br />
ALISON ROWLEY<br />
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE<br />
DAVID HAMMOND<br />
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER<br />
JENNY BROOKS<br />
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR<br />
JOANNA ANDERSEN<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
CATHERINE HANDCOCK<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> is printed on<br />
paper certifi ed as being from<br />
sustainable sources using only<br />
vegetable-based inks. Printed<br />
by Buxton Press, Environmental<br />
Printer of the Year and Printing<br />
Company of the Year.<br />
WRITE TO US AT:<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong>,<br />
21 The Timberyard,<br />
Drysdale Street,<br />
London, N1 6ND<br />
020 7324 7540<br />
enquiries@alfol.co.uk<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> is published<br />
10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> is a registered<br />
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magazine may be reproduced<br />
without prior permission of the<br />
publisher. All information correct<br />
at time of going to press.<br />
Printing by Buxton Press<br />
creativeheadmag.com<br />
creativeheadmagofficial<br />
@creativeheadmag
World leading<br />
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The edit<br />
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY<br />
GOVERNMENT<br />
‘MUST GO<br />
FURTHER’<br />
TO TACKLE<br />
BLACK ECONOMY<br />
E\S Project<br />
Tom Connell<br />
Tim Hartley<br />
Nick Irwin<br />
THE NHF/NBF has called for a proposed<br />
government employment body to do far more<br />
in terms of effective enforcement action<br />
against salons and individuals operating in<br />
the so-called black economy. The group was<br />
responding to news that the government has<br />
closed a consultation into the creation of a new<br />
‘Single Enforcement Body’ that would deal<br />
with employment rights including benefits<br />
and enforcing laws related to minimum wage.<br />
Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF/NBF,<br />
said: “We want to see the authorities targeting<br />
businesses that break all the rules and yet<br />
appear to get away with it. Our members<br />
feel that enforcement is too heavily focused<br />
on employers who make small mistakes<br />
when calculating minimum wages. We hear<br />
from members of competing with ‘cash in<br />
hand’ businesses, firms which employ illegal<br />
workers or even appear to be fronts for<br />
criminal activity.”<br />
The recent Queen’s speech also laid out<br />
a host of proposed new bills, including a<br />
pensions dashboard for gathering details of<br />
all previous pensions together in one place<br />
online, which won the NHF/NBF’s approval, as<br />
did added measures to help the environment.<br />
A statutory Code of Practice for tipping<br />
was also announced to replace the current<br />
voluntary code to standardise the practice.<br />
The NHF/NBF added it continues to work<br />
with other trade bodies to oppose a proposal<br />
for a minimum salary requirement of<br />
£30,000 for foreign workers in a post-Brexit<br />
immigration system.<br />
M.I.B<br />
Hairfucker<br />
NOISE show<br />
raises the roof<br />
RICHARD ASHFORTH’S guerrilla hairdressing event NOISE always brings<br />
bold and mind-bending hairdressing into the spotlight, and its latest London<br />
stop-off was no exception. The secret location was only revealed two hours<br />
before the show, building excitement for the seven incredible presentations.<br />
Anglo-French duo E\S Project, the Chinese team of M.I.B led by Robbie Liu,<br />
and Russian hair anarchists Hairfucker took avant-garde to new heights,<br />
before Tom Connell of Trevor Sorbie demonstrated stunning progressive<br />
shapes, adorned with veils of beaded metal. Nick Irwin also made his NOISE<br />
debut, before Tim Hartley and Tina Anderson’s presentation bared all. Peter<br />
Gray wrapped up the night with architectural hair structures which<br />
exuded conceptual chic and literal smoke.<br />
Pro hairdressers have fallen in love with the BaByliss 9000 cordless<br />
straightener as much as consumers! With a 30-minute run time at full power<br />
on just a three-hour charge, it’s perfect for session styling under pressure and<br />
in small venues.<br />
babylisspro.co.uk<br />
Peter Gray<br />
16
#CHedit<br />
MY months<br />
A<strong>HEAD</strong><br />
What <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
has in store for...<br />
<strong>2019</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
LADIES NIGHT AT<br />
LINTON & MAC<br />
WOMEN TOOK CENTRE STAGE at Linton &<br />
Mac’s Women Inspire event. The Linton & Mac<br />
team opened the salon to other small local<br />
businesses and more than 100 women turned<br />
up for an evening of girl power featuring a panel<br />
talk of inspiring leaders and a catwalk show. The<br />
gathering was a prime example of why this team<br />
won Most Wanted Best Local Salon <strong>2019</strong>, with<br />
their continual efforts to reach out to clients and<br />
local businesses.<br />
+4,004%<br />
The<br />
Lions Barbers Collective<br />
makes history<br />
THE LIONS BARBERS COLLECTIVE held<br />
a special Barbers Saving Lives event at the<br />
Barbers-Surgeons’ Hall in London – marking<br />
the first time in centuries hair had been cut<br />
at the historic site. MPs, the Lord Mayor of<br />
London and more were present to pledge<br />
support for the provision of spaces for men to<br />
talk, as well as enjoy a showcase of the work<br />
of The Lions Barber Collective, winner of the<br />
<strong>2019</strong> Most Wanted Award for Innovation.<br />
rise in searches<br />
for ‘braided hairstyles<br />
videos’ in the past 12<br />
months, according to<br />
a Pinterest report. Braids and braid tutorials are now some of the<br />
most searched-for topics, including bubble and hair scarf braids.<br />
SIMON HILL<br />
SESH HAIRDRESSING<br />
We are hosting a birthday<br />
party, #SESH15, to celebrate<br />
our 15th anniversary. In line<br />
with our brand ethos, all<br />
profi ts from the event will go<br />
to MND Scotland, the Motor<br />
Neurone Disease charity, as<br />
this is a cause very close to<br />
our hearts. The<br />
festive period<br />
brings a real<br />
buzz to the<br />
salon, it’s my<br />
favourite time<br />
of year!<br />
MELENIE TUDOR<br />
EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY<br />
We’re launching a ‘reuse,<br />
recycle, refi ll’ green initiative.<br />
My target is to save 1,000<br />
product bottles from going<br />
to landfi ll by <strong>Christmas</strong>, so<br />
now we offer a product refi ll<br />
station. We’ve also launched<br />
the ‘En Route<br />
to Sustainability<br />
Promise’ for<br />
clients to<br />
pledge one<br />
new task to<br />
help the planet.<br />
The class of #MWIT19 dine out<br />
THE WINNERS OF the <strong>2019</strong> Most Wanted and The It List<br />
Awards gathered together at the super-cool Coal Drops<br />
Yard to celebrate their achievements. A month to the day<br />
following the awards, the dinner at Hicce was a chance for<br />
the attendees to get to know their fellow trophy holders,<br />
including Legends Dylan Bradshaw, Sophia Hilton and<br />
Lloyds Hair. The group tucked into sharing plates, snapped<br />
Polaroid keepsakes and toasted their achievements.<br />
IT’S BACK!<br />
OUR GAME-CHANGING<br />
BUSINESS NETWORKING<br />
EVENT IS BACK IN<br />
LONDON FOR 2020 –<br />
SEE MORE FROM PAGE 33<br />
MOVERS AND<br />
SHAKERS<br />
Grant Williams has<br />
joined ghd as regional<br />
key account educator<br />
for the UK and<br />
Republic of Ireland.<br />
The Hairdressers’<br />
Charity, previously<br />
known as the Hair And<br />
Beauty Benevolent<br />
(Habb), has rebranded<br />
as The Hair & Beauty<br />
Charity.<br />
18
DON’T GET IN A TANGLE<br />
Freelancing means taking charge on your finances,<br />
education, stock upkeep and more, all while working<br />
your socks off to build a business. It’s a lot!<br />
SELF/STYLED is our hub for freelance creatives and<br />
collaborators, full of business advice, product picks and<br />
inspiration to keep you running smoothly<br />
www.creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled
C H R I S T M A S<br />
S P E C I A L<br />
You’re spoilt for choice by<br />
Redken, with five <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
gift sets laying on<br />
the compliments!<br />
RRP FROM £36<br />
0800 085 4956<br />
redken.co.uk<br />
Tick all your client’s party hair needs with<br />
Aveda’s go-to styling cracker.<br />
RRP £18<br />
0800 0512979<br />
aveda.co.uk<br />
Clients buying<br />
a Kitoko Oil<br />
Treatment from<br />
ASP will be<br />
gifted this free<br />
luxury cosmetics<br />
bag. Slick!<br />
RRP £26.90<br />
01794 527111<br />
asphair.com<br />
Go shiny with a Gold Leaf<br />
or Smashed Holo Compact<br />
Styler from Tangle Teezer.<br />
RRP £14 EACH<br />
020 7274 6128<br />
tangleteezer.com<br />
Meet Mr Strong and Mr<br />
Amazing, great gifts for<br />
guys from MITCH.<br />
This Royal Dynasty deluxe<br />
gift set from ghd has both<br />
the rose gold platinum+<br />
and air hairdryer, and is its<br />
most luxurious set ever!<br />
RRP £298<br />
01924 423400<br />
ghdhair.com<br />
The Kérastase <strong>Christmas</strong> Coffrets feature three fullsized<br />
products to target specific hair types.<br />
RRP FROM £66<br />
0845 600 0122<br />
kerastase.co.uk<br />
RRP FROM £24<br />
0845 659 0011<br />
salon-success.co.uk<br />
To celebrate its<br />
25th anniversary,<br />
American Crew<br />
is inviting guys<br />
to Get the Look<br />
with its three duo<br />
gift sets.<br />
RRP £22 EACH<br />
020 7391 7440<br />
american<br />
crew.com<br />
Bring on the twinkle with JOICO Stars of JOI<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> gift sets, in four brand varieties.<br />
Santa, can we have Defy Damage, please?<br />
RRP FROM £24.61<br />
0845 071 2326<br />
joicoeurope.com<br />
The System Repair Gift<br />
Set from System Professional<br />
is perfect for sprinkling<br />
some high gloss shine onto<br />
fragile hair.<br />
RRP £39.95<br />
020 3901 1163<br />
systemprofessional.com<br />
20<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
#CHedit<br />
There are four BC sets from<br />
Schwarzkopf Professional;<br />
each one contains a shampoo,<br />
conditioner and a treatment in a<br />
cosmetic bag.<br />
RRP £26.95<br />
0800 526741<br />
schwarzkopfpro.com<br />
Pop these pouches, stuffed with<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert<br />
mini goodies, onto your shelves!<br />
RRP £10<br />
0800 030 4034<br />
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk<br />
STOCK<br />
OPTIONS<br />
OUR PICK OF THE COOLEST CHRISTMAS<br />
GIFT SETS TO STACK ON SHELVES, AND<br />
STUFF IN SEASONAL STOCKINGS<br />
Join the book club with one of these<br />
sets from Paul Mitchell, and focus on the<br />
story of giving.<br />
RRP FROM £23<br />
0845 659 0011<br />
salon-success.co.uk<br />
One to watch...<br />
The thank goodness set from evo is<br />
all about hair, while highly gifted has<br />
some face products in there, too!<br />
RRP FROM £37<br />
0800 955 4285<br />
astonandfincher.co.uk<br />
Protect any colour clients with the Kerasilk<br />
Color <strong>Christmas</strong> bag from Goldwell.<br />
RRP £40<br />
0330 123 9530<br />
goldwell.co.uk<br />
LEAF SCISSORS<br />
GIVEN THE CURRENT climate crisis and catalogue<br />
of ecological disasters, we’re realising now more<br />
than ever that we all need to do our bit. While many<br />
hairdressing brands have chosen to go down a<br />
sustainable route, Leaf Scissors – the brainchild of<br />
hairdresser Stephen McManus – is giving back in a<br />
very tangible way.<br />
For every pair of the high-quality Japanese scissors<br />
sold, the company plants 10 trees in association with One<br />
Tree Planted, a non-profi t organisation on a mission of<br />
global reforestation.<br />
“I had wanted to create a tool for years but didn’t want<br />
to just do what everyone else was doing,” says Stephen.<br />
“I learned more about One Tree Planted and realised I<br />
could use this to really make a diff erence.”<br />
Since its inception Leaf Scissors has been taking its<br />
responsibilities seriously by helping off set carbon and<br />
reforest the earth. In fact, the past month alone has seen<br />
it plant nearly 500 trees! Leaf Scissors are designed ‘for<br />
hairdressers, by hairdressers’ and each order is<br />
presented in plastic-free packaging with an eco<br />
box made from a minimum of 90 per cent recycled<br />
material that is also fully recyclable.<br />
Retailing at £220, the Black Edition is designed to<br />
suit all hairdressers no matter their level of experience.<br />
Its ergonomic design makes the scissor feel like an<br />
extension of your hand and allows the user to explore<br />
their creativity with freedom and expression.<br />
Available in 5 inch, 5.5 inch and 6 inch models, they<br />
also can be bought in both left handed and right handed<br />
designs. “I created Leaf Scissors as I wanted a tool that<br />
was both stylish and sustainable,” says Stephen. “The<br />
brand is creative and has a sustainable impact. I’m so<br />
proud that we’re able to plant 10 trees every time somebody<br />
buys a pair.”<br />
PRICE £220<br />
07891 435088<br />
leafscissors.com<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
21
#CHedit<br />
Inside<br />
story<br />
EDWARD JAMES LONDON BALHAM<br />
Set in an old dairy, the latest outpost of Edward James London invites<br />
guests into a ‘stylish home’ concept. For founder Edward Shortall, that<br />
translates into texture, pattern, comfort and colour – stone, tree bark,<br />
marble, ceramic, metals and ikat prints offering bold colour and pattern.<br />
“Our goal with the materials we use is to be as natural, recycled and<br />
upcycled as possible – all timber is from sustainably sourced manufacturers<br />
and we don’t use plastics or toxic paints that contain volatile organic<br />
compounds,” explains Edward. So it makes sense that you’ll fi nd Aveda<br />
in the salon, too. His love of “mixing things up and having fun” is evident –<br />
kids are fascinated by the internal forest of tree trunks, and an enormous<br />
bunch of Edison bulbs look like a tangled knot of eccentric hair. Pooky<br />
supplied all the lampshades and you’ll spot Timothy Oulton light fi ttings,<br />
too. Lamps from Graham and Green and upcycled retail storage and some<br />
seating from Barker and Stonehouse round things off nicely.<br />
HOT BUYS<br />
TAKE A VOYAGE<br />
Does your reception<br />
area need a shake-up?<br />
Then this Discovery<br />
desk might just open<br />
up new possibilities –<br />
it’s modern, innovative,<br />
functional and offers<br />
plenty of space.<br />
£949 until 31 December<br />
(usually £1,189)<br />
07554 990965<br />
salonambience.com<br />
now open<br />
BOND SHOREDITCH<br />
A bespoke hair salon for women only, this<br />
Milk-designed London location was crafted<br />
with comfort in mind and uses vegan haircare.<br />
22<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
ALFAPARFMILANO.COM<br />
COMING SOON<br />
NEW SEMI DI LINO VOLUMIZING RANGE
EDDIE PARKER<br />
AGE: 20<br />
SALON: STUART HOLMES SALON<br />
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME A HAIRDRESSER?<br />
When I was a child I would play with my<br />
sister’s dolls’ hair, then I began doing<br />
mannequin heads – I got through<br />
a lot of them! So, the passion to<br />
become a hairdresser has been there<br />
from a young age. But what really<br />
got me excited about the industry<br />
was when I got an apprenticeship at<br />
Stuart Holmes in Cheltenham. Once<br />
I began colouring, cutting and<br />
seeing colleagues entering<br />
competitions, shows and<br />
events, I really found<br />
a hunger, drive and<br />
passion to do more.<br />
WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN YOUR<br />
HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?<br />
Being part of the L’Oréal<br />
Professionnel ID Artist<br />
programme; I’ve completed the<br />
first year. It’s been so amazing<br />
doing shows with Jason Hall,<br />
having a three-day workshop with<br />
Brooks & Brooks, being mentored<br />
in presentation skills by Simon Shaw<br />
and getting to go to Barcelona!<br />
Another highlight was winning<br />
the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Star<br />
Award <strong>2019</strong> for the Western<br />
Region. This was such a big<br />
moment for me.<br />
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOUR SELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?<br />
I don’t know, but I hope it’s doing creative<br />
and education work around colour. I still<br />
want to be inspired by the latest trends<br />
and continue to improve, making sure I’m<br />
keeping up-to-date with techniques.<br />
WHAT WOULD YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG BE?<br />
To learn and work alongside leading<br />
colourists in the UK, absorbing as much<br />
information as possible. I’d also love to<br />
be creating my own collection of work,<br />
which would allow me to present on stage,<br />
educating and inspiring hairdressers.
MAKE IT A<br />
CRACKER<br />
THE FESTIVE SEASON IS ALSO A GIFT FOR SALONS. THE NHF/NBF SHARES<br />
TIPS ON HOW TO GIVE YOUR PROFITS A SERIOUS END-OF-YEAR BOOST<br />
HOW THE NHF/NBF<br />
CAN HELP YOU<br />
Not yet an NHF/NBF<br />
Member? For less than<br />
75p a day, benefits<br />
include:<br />
• Valuable discounts<br />
on industry-specific<br />
insurance<br />
BEFORE THE CHRISTMAS madness<br />
begins, make sure you have the whole<br />
team on board for what will undoubtedly<br />
be a manic few weeks. “Involve all of your<br />
employees in your <strong>Christmas</strong> preparations,”<br />
advises NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary<br />
Hall. “Organise a ‘<strong>Christmas</strong> brainstorming<br />
session’ to get as many ideas as possible.”<br />
IT’S A WRAP…<br />
Inspire your team to really push retail sales,<br />
says Hilary. “You could offer a prize for<br />
best <strong>Christmas</strong> sales. Staff recommending<br />
products they love to clients is effective as<br />
their enthusiasm is infectious.”<br />
MOTIVATE YOUR TEAM<br />
“<strong>Christmas</strong> can be a good time to judge<br />
annual schemes such as ‘employee of the<br />
year’ and present the winner with their<br />
prize,” says Hilary. Salon software can be<br />
used to provide objective measurements of<br />
employee performance, and the NHF/NBF<br />
has a number of trade members who supply<br />
specialist salon software to help you out.<br />
SHOW YOUR APPRECIATION<br />
“Your employees will be working really hard<br />
as <strong>Christmas</strong> approaches, so find different<br />
ways to show your appreciation,” says Hilary.<br />
See what works best for them – whether it’s<br />
discounts on retail products, extra time off,<br />
a staff day out or a special treat during the<br />
usually quieter January. If your staff feel<br />
valued they’ll be far more committed to the<br />
success of your <strong>Christmas</strong> plans.<br />
NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS…<br />
“Taking steps to motivate and incentivise<br />
your team is, of course, important for the<br />
success of your salon throughout the year,”<br />
says Hilary. Members can download an indepth<br />
guide to managing staff full of advice<br />
and insight: nhf.info/performance-guide<br />
• Free health & safety<br />
advice<br />
• Free 24/7 legal and<br />
commercial helplines<br />
• Membership helpline<br />
for everyday business<br />
advice<br />
• Free employment and<br />
chair renting contracts<br />
JOIN<br />
THE NHF/NBF<br />
BEFORE THE END<br />
OF DECEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />
AND QUOTE CHD25 TO<br />
GET £25 OFF YOUR<br />
MEMBERSHIP FEE<br />
Make this a <strong>Christmas</strong> to remember with the NHF/NBF’s advice. Call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info/join<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
25
THE BUSINESS EDIT<br />
CAROLYN<br />
ARONSON<br />
ITʼS A 10<br />
WHY DID YOU LAUNCH IT’S<br />
A 10?<br />
We started with just one<br />
bottle, and the concept was<br />
to create the product I always<br />
wished I’d had when I was a<br />
salon owner. I used to cherrypick<br />
products because I<br />
never found a range that had<br />
everything I needed when<br />
I was behind the chair. My<br />
mission was to create a line<br />
where every product was a<br />
10 that really gave instant,<br />
miracle results and were also<br />
multi-functional.<br />
TELL US MORE ABOUT THE<br />
RANGE’S HERO…<br />
The Miracle Leave-In product<br />
sells more than 13 million a<br />
year in the US. On the bottle,<br />
there are 10 simple bullet<br />
points about what it can be<br />
used for. Its purpose is to<br />
bring hair to an immensely<br />
healthy state so that no<br />
matter how you want to style<br />
it, it will behave in the way<br />
you want it to. It’s expanded<br />
into seven different variations<br />
and I build the collections<br />
around this original product.<br />
HOW ARE YOU SPREADING<br />
THE WORD?<br />
I really believe in sampling<br />
– I started off by going in to<br />
salons and giving them fullsized<br />
products! Once stylists<br />
started using it, it became<br />
almost a cult-like product<br />
as they started telling other<br />
hairdressers, who told their<br />
clients. We created a national<br />
holiday – 10 October, 10/10,<br />
Love Your Hair Day. Well, it’s<br />
now it’s International Love<br />
Your Hair Day!<br />
CAN REFRESHMENTS<br />
REFRESH YOUR<br />
BOTTOM LINE?<br />
NOTHING SETS OFF the salon experience<br />
quite like something delicious to sip or<br />
snack on while in the chair – especially at<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> time. But can food and drink<br />
actually serve to grow your business further?<br />
It’s important to follow the appropriate<br />
regulations to ensure everything is hygienic<br />
and on the right side of the law. You don’t<br />
need a food handlers’ certificate to sell<br />
food, but the Food Safety Act 1990 outlines<br />
the standards required to serve food to the<br />
public, and you must ensure that everything<br />
is kept clean, stored correctly and staff follow<br />
instructions closely. And if you’re regularly<br />
serving alcohol, even if you’re not charging<br />
for it, then you’ll need both a personal and<br />
premises licence.<br />
When Gatsby & Miller in Amersham<br />
relaunched in January, it opened the<br />
in-salon Cafe 67. “Blending services and<br />
hospitality under one roof followed a<br />
requirement from our clients for good coffee<br />
and quality food,” explains owner John<br />
Roads. “We have created a premium service<br />
and social space that encourages clients to<br />
visit even between their appointments.”<br />
All clients are offered complimentary filter<br />
coffee, which they can upgrade to for an<br />
additional charge. As a licensed premises,<br />
the cafe also offers alcoholic drinks.<br />
Everything can be ordered from their chair<br />
and added onto their bill, helping to provide<br />
a seamless service. “We want to enhance<br />
a client’s visit and to be an enjoyable,<br />
accessible experience.”<br />
Q Hair & Beauty’s Kain Lawrence believes<br />
the key is to offer an easily achievable menu.<br />
At his salon, it comes pre-prepared and<br />
individually packaged. “This means we can<br />
offer drinks at an affordable price without<br />
worrying about wastage either.”<br />
It also serves drinks in its Courtyard<br />
Garden, and it’s had a positive impact on<br />
business. “The uptake has been hugely<br />
successful. The financial benefit is a double<br />
header; not only is there a profit margin<br />
in the alcohol we sell, but there is also<br />
then no absorbed costs in providing our<br />
complimentary refreshments menu.”<br />
Owner of RE:NU salon, Leigh-Anne Regan,<br />
has built a relationship with a local gin bar<br />
in order to promote both businesses. “We<br />
wanted to do a collaboration with interaction<br />
on social media from our clients and use<br />
drinks as a marketing tool,” she explains.<br />
“They have to post on their Stories to<br />
get a free drink and tag the bar, us and the<br />
location. When they’ve done this, then they<br />
get the drink free – clients love it.”<br />
“If you get it right and listen to what your<br />
clients want,” says John Roads, “offering<br />
food and drink can enhance their overall<br />
experience and they’ll reward you with<br />
continued loyalty.”<br />
MICHAEL VAN CLARKE<br />
MICHAEL VAN CLARKE<br />
The Marylebone Deli was created in our salon, where we<br />
run a seasonal menu available to clients and staff. There are<br />
specials made by head chef Luis each day, and we aim for the<br />
quality to be comparable with The Ivy. All catering costs are added<br />
to clients’ final salon bill and about 45 per cent of our visitors choose something from our<br />
catering options – this ranges from a single cappuccino to a full meal with champagne.<br />
Catering bills will vary from £4.50 to about £40, but the average spend is just under £10.<br />
Salons should ensure they’re able to develop their<br />
<strong>2019</strong><br />
offerings. There is no point in offering a service and<br />
then withdrawing it because it wasn’t well thought out.<br />
26<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
#BusinessEdit<br />
BUSINESS BUILDER<br />
ASK ME<br />
ANYTHING<br />
THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE<br />
EVERY BRANCH OF SALON<br />
SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE<br />
TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!<br />
With Black Friday just weeks away and<br />
the festive season round the corner, it’s<br />
important you’re prepared for the spike in<br />
business. So make sure you’ve stocked up<br />
on all the essentials – from products (for<br />
both professional use and retailing) and<br />
electricals to gift cards and festive bundles.<br />
After all, the last thing you want to do is<br />
run out of stock during the busiest season!<br />
ON RIGHT NOW<br />
We understand how important it is for<br />
beauty professionals to stock up and save<br />
money ahead of the busy festive months.<br />
That’s why we’ve got loads of exciting<br />
deals in the pipeline this November and<br />
December. Be sure to keep an eye on our<br />
website, salon-services.com, so you don’t<br />
miss out!<br />
Help your clients<br />
get ready for party<br />
season with Training Solutions’<br />
Blow It In Style Essential Blow-drying Course<br />
(£85 exc. VAT). It’s ideal for creating voluminous<br />
and frizz-free hair styles for all social occasions.<br />
THE SERVICE STATION<br />
In association with<br />
Innovative launches, expert advice and business<br />
boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!<br />
WELL-GROOMED<br />
BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT<br />
The new Wahl<br />
Stealth Beretto<br />
Clipper Kit (£109.99<br />
exc. VAT) is now<br />
available at Salon<br />
Services. Featuring<br />
a speed comb that’s<br />
great for creating<br />
flat tops, tapering<br />
and clipper-overcomb<br />
techniques,<br />
as well as a Durable<br />
Diamond Blade,<br />
this is a must-have!<br />
Joanne Etherson<br />
Marketing manager<br />
at Salon Services<br />
Q: How can I prepare<br />
for the festive rush?<br />
A: November and<br />
December are<br />
traditionally packed<br />
with parties as people<br />
get into the festive<br />
spirit. People want to<br />
look their best for these<br />
big occasions, a bonus<br />
for hair salons, which<br />
see a rise in bookings.<br />
To ensure you don’t get<br />
lost in the festive frenzy,<br />
be sure to plan these<br />
months to perfection<br />
well ahead of time. For<br />
instance, triple-check<br />
stock levels so you have<br />
everything you need,<br />
create your <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
beauty packages and<br />
don’t forget to decide<br />
on the layout of your<br />
retail area as this can<br />
save you a lot of stress.<br />
And when <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
business really ramps<br />
up, don’t forget that<br />
however important it is<br />
to keep your customers<br />
happy, you need to<br />
carve out a little special<br />
time for yourself as well.<br />
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
27
AND GET SWITCHED ON TO COLOUR WITH CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> TV!<br />
ZOË IRWIN<br />
ROBERT EATON<br />
JORDANNA COBELLA<br />
JAYSON GRAY<br />
AKA KARBON KYD<br />
CLAYDE BAUMANN<br />
Watch <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> editor,<br />
Amanda Nottage, in conversation with<br />
a host of brilliant Wella colourists…<br />
only on <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> TV<br />
CREATIVE<strong>HEAD</strong>MAG.COM/TV
#BusinessEdit<br />
MISSION CONTROL<br />
PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON<br />
in association with Phorest Salon Software and the <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> Reader Panel<br />
Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK<br />
ONCE EACH ISSUE of <strong>Creative</strong><br />
<strong>HEAD</strong> lands with our subscribers,<br />
we speak to our Reader Panel to<br />
ask them how their business is<br />
going, in partnership with Phorest<br />
Salon Software. We combine the<br />
results from our Reader Panel with<br />
research compiled by Phorest Salon<br />
Software, using its client base of<br />
salons from across the UK, to gauge<br />
what’s going on in the industry<br />
and discuss how to solve common<br />
problems and issues. This month<br />
we’re talking about how to maximise<br />
the salon <strong>Christmas</strong> boost.<br />
PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER<br />
ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES<br />
7.8%<br />
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN<br />
SEPTEMBER (EXC. VAT)<br />
£54.59<br />
HOW DO YOU<br />
COMPARE?<br />
How was business in September<br />
compared with August?<br />
SAME<br />
20%<br />
DOWN<br />
40%<br />
UP<br />
40%<br />
How was business in September<br />
compared with September 2018?<br />
READER PANEL MISSION: MAKE CHRISTMAS COUNT<br />
90%<br />
of salons<br />
experience a<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong><br />
rush<br />
The average<br />
number of days<br />
salons close<br />
at <strong>Christmas</strong> is<br />
three days<br />
SAME<br />
40% UP<br />
50%<br />
DOWN<br />
10%<br />
60%<br />
of salons<br />
have a quieter<br />
January<br />
“We host two evening events called Advent Select. These evenings are for<br />
our clients who spend the most on retail, and are preview events for our<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> gift sets. If a guest spends more than £100 they also receive a<br />
gift voucher for a free haircut in January”<br />
IAN HARROLD, ATTITUDE MEN’S HAIR<br />
DID YOU KNOW…<br />
UK SALONS SEE A 300 PER CENT UPTAKE IN<br />
APPOINTMENTS IN DECEMBER<br />
SO YOU KNEW the <strong>Christmas</strong> rush was big,<br />
but did you know how big? And do you know<br />
when that rush starts exactly? New research<br />
by Phorest Salon Software has identifi ed that<br />
it’s already started – on 17 October! The study<br />
also found December bookings in salons<br />
represent a whopping 300 per cent increase<br />
on the previous two months, meaning the<br />
chance to fi ll your books has never been better.<br />
By analysing booking data from more than<br />
6,500 salons, the Phorest fi gures show that<br />
towards the end of October, the spike is<br />
on a defi nite rise and the upward trajectory<br />
continues throughout the month of November,<br />
before reaching its peak on the busiest day of<br />
the year – the last Thursday before <strong>Christmas</strong>.<br />
By the fi rst week of November, salon<br />
appointment bookings have already almost<br />
doubled the average number of weekly<br />
bookings taken – jumping from 9.32 to<br />
17.3 appointments made for the <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
season. And once the end of November hits,<br />
that number has shot up again to 21.7.<br />
What can we take from this? Well, if you<br />
want to stay ahead of the curve and maximise<br />
on the rush, you need to have a marketing<br />
plan well in advance of the yuletide fun.<br />
Ideally, get promoting from the third week in<br />
October to make sure you’re reminding your<br />
clients to get booking and avoid having to<br />
disappoint those who call when your slots<br />
are already full. Try reaching out with clever<br />
email and SMS campaigns and fl agging your<br />
December availability on your social accounts<br />
and salon app sooner rather than later. If<br />
you’re a Phorest client, you can access<br />
suite of readymade email templates, SMS<br />
messages and your own branded app to get<br />
your slickest yet marketing plans underway.<br />
Find out more at phorest.com<br />
Shauna O’Halloran is content &<br />
marketing manager at Phorest<br />
Salon Software. Find out more<br />
at phorest.com and<br />
@phorestsalonsoftware<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
29
#BusinessEdit<br />
KEN’S CLINIC<br />
GOT A BUSINESS <strong>HEAD</strong>ACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS<br />
EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION<br />
How do you<br />
successfully<br />
expand your<br />
brand to more<br />
than two salons<br />
without diluting<br />
your identity,<br />
ethos and beliefs?<br />
ADAM GORE, BARBEROLOGY<br />
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS<br />
I love this question Adam, as it takes me back to the<br />
time when I did exactly the same thing and went from<br />
two salons to three. What I discovered literally changed my<br />
life, as the challenges that I then faced led me to join 3•6•5,<br />
the wonderful organisation of which I am now a director.<br />
When I had two salons, which were fairly close together,<br />
I could ‘be there’. I split my time between the two and was<br />
one of the main income producers, and also problem solver/<br />
maintenance man/generally Mr Amazing. When I bought<br />
my third salon I soon realised that there was only so much<br />
that I could do and that what I needed were systems that<br />
made my salons work, whether I was<br />
there or not. It’s worth reading a book<br />
called The E Myth by Michael E. Gerber<br />
that explains the transition from skilled<br />
craftsman to businessman.<br />
To build and maintain a brand<br />
you need two key things. A true<br />
understanding of what your brand<br />
stands for and its values, and<br />
then systems to ensure that<br />
everything about your<br />
brand is replicated in<br />
all of your branches.<br />
This is exactly how a<br />
franchise works. You can<br />
go into any McDonald’s<br />
or Costa Coffee and you<br />
know what to expect. The<br />
product is the same and<br />
the service you receive<br />
should be the same. In other<br />
words, your client experience should be the same in each<br />
of your branches.<br />
Now I know that each of your stylists is different, but<br />
to become a brand with a strong identity there has to be<br />
a uniformity across your group. Pricing should be the<br />
same, promotions should be the same, branding and salon<br />
design should have a strong common theme. In your<br />
question you mentioned ‘identity, ethos and beliefs’. Your<br />
Instagram page says that you provide ‘a fresh look at men’s<br />
hairdressing’. If I were to ask every member of your team<br />
what this really means, would they all say the same thing?<br />
You are in the fastest growing and, I believe, one of the<br />
toughest sectors of our industry. Yet I also believe you are<br />
in a sector that offers amazing opportunities for the bold to<br />
rise above the masses. Your team culture is going to play a<br />
vital part in creating your brand and I hope your barbers are<br />
employed because otherwise controlling culture and creating<br />
a brand becomes virtually impossible. With self-employed<br />
barbers you are in fact a landlord with little or no control in<br />
the eyes of the HMRC over what happens in your salons.<br />
Systems also ensure that your business functions<br />
whether you are there or not. As you grow they ensure that<br />
each extra site operates exactly as you want it to. You need<br />
systems for attracting and ensuring the retention of clients,<br />
building a team and a culture to be proud of, educating<br />
and creating opportunities for your team, and building<br />
profitability and long-term security for you and your team.<br />
I learnt none of this when I trained as a hairdresser, which<br />
is why I joined 3•6•5 as a member nearly 30 years ago.<br />
I love the look of what you are doing Adam but trust me,<br />
to continue to grow a brand, most of us need some coaching<br />
to develop new skills. I wish you nothing but success.<br />
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS <strong>HEAD</strong>ACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?<br />
Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag<br />
30<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
SUCCESSFUL<br />
BUSINESS<br />
COACHING FOR<br />
SALONS<br />
Are you a<br />
Salon Owner?<br />
Do you want your salon to grow in<br />
this competitive economy?<br />
3·6·5 offer successful business coaching for salons<br />
providing you with powerful results-focused salon<br />
business education for your whole team. Meet likeminded<br />
people and discover the right tools to tackle<br />
key challenges in your business, steering you towards a<br />
stronger, more profitable future.<br />
Discover how<br />
we can help you…<br />
Call 0845 659 0015 or email hello@365hair.com<br />
www.365saloneducation.com • Find us: @365SalonEducation
#BusinessEdit<br />
ASSESSMENTS<br />
ARE ‘CONFUSING’<br />
THE NHF/NBF has reported confusion<br />
among employers about how end-point<br />
assessments work in hair and beauty.<br />
Director of quality & standards, Caroline<br />
Larissey, said: “We have been asked how<br />
many times an apprentice can take the<br />
end-point assessment, and who pays for<br />
repeat sittings. To clarify, there is no limit<br />
to the times an apprentice can sit the tests<br />
and if funding for the apprentice has run<br />
out, the employer must pay.”<br />
End-point assessments are the final<br />
part of the new Standards (Trailblazer)<br />
apprenticeship schemes in England only.<br />
“Employers must continue employing<br />
apprentices until they have successfully<br />
completed their apprenticeship, including<br />
the assessment. Employers can extend the<br />
apprenticeship if necessary,” she added.<br />
Find out more at nhf.info/apprentices<br />
DEALING WITH NO-SHOWS<br />
AND LATE CANCELLATIONS<br />
IF YOU GET ONE no-show a day for<br />
appointments worth £50, you’ll be losing<br />
£14,400 a year, says NHF/NBF director of<br />
finance Kishon Mather. He explained: “That’s<br />
why no-shows and late cancellations can cause<br />
serious damage to a salon’s profits.<br />
“You must create a no-show and late<br />
cancellation policy. You’ll need to be clear about<br />
how far in advance clients need to cancel and<br />
any financial penalties you may charge. But be<br />
careful – although you are entitled to cover your<br />
financial losses, the law says you cannot impose<br />
fees that are unfair to your clients.”<br />
NHF/NBF members can download a new<br />
in-depth guide to dealing with no-shows and late<br />
cancellations at nhf.info/no-show-guide<br />
HIGH STREET HOPE<br />
FOR THE HAIR AND<br />
BEAUTY SECTOR<br />
BEAUTY SALONS, combined hair and beauty salons and barber shops<br />
continue to show healthy high street growth against a backdrop of rising<br />
shop closures, according to a recent report from the Local Data Company.<br />
Although the high street shop vacancy rate is now at its highest level since<br />
2014, figures for the first half of <strong>2019</strong> show that barber shops saw overall<br />
growth of 352, beauty salons by 179, nail salons by 109 and hair and beauty<br />
salons by 56.<br />
NHF/NBF chief executive, Hilary Hall, said: “It’s great that hair and<br />
beauty is one of the few retail sectors showing growth and we’ve seen a big<br />
rise in the number of NHF/NBF members offering both. Express treatments<br />
or services, male grooming, longer opening hours and online bookings or<br />
focusing on wellbeing are all examples of how salons can make the most of<br />
consumers’ willingness to spend money on looking and feeling good.<br />
“Getting and keeping clients is harder than ever – but crucial if salons are<br />
to make a profit against a backdrop of rising wages, higher rents and rates.”<br />
Find out more at nhf.info/high-street<br />
More increases to come<br />
for National Living Wage?<br />
BOTH MAIN POLITICAL parties have proposed increases to the National Living Wage<br />
(NLW). The Conservative Party says it will raise the NLW to £10.50 an hour within five<br />
years and lower the qualifying age from 25 to 21.<br />
The Labour Party has pledged to raise the NLW to £10 an hour in 2020 and to lower<br />
the qualifying age to 16. Sixteen-year-olds are currently entitled to £4.35 an hour.<br />
Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF/NBF, said: “Of course employers want to<br />
pay their talented stylists, barbers and therapists of all ages a decent wage. But there<br />
comes a point when ever-increasing wages become unaffordable for small businesses,<br />
especially service industries where wages and pensions are such a high proportion of<br />
overall costs.”<br />
Find out more at nhf.info/NMW-proposals<br />
32 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
FIND<br />
YOUR<br />
SPECIALISM<br />
# 20<br />
29 & 30 MARCH<br />
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FOR<br />
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ONLY
FULL OF<br />
WONDER<br />
Forget those three kings, we have four<br />
queens bearing gifts this season...
CROWNING<br />
GLORY<br />
With the right tools any client can rule their look and feel like the queen they were born to<br />
be. The new Royal Dynasty collection from ghd is a celebration of all things beautiful, with<br />
sparkling rose gold gifts nestled in sumptuous burgundy vanity cases. Are you ready to<br />
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DELUXE D<br />
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This ultimate gift set features a majestic rose<br />
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ELIGHTS<br />
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GOLD STYLER<br />
The iconic styler for proven results, given a seasonal<br />
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AIR HAIRDRYER<br />
Blow your clients away with this sleek hairdryer,<br />
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RRP £99 / €129
GIFTING<br />
These luxury gift sets offer great value –<br />
PLATINUM+ GIFT SET<br />
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RRP £189 / €225<br />
GOLD GIFT SET<br />
ghd gold, paddle brush and a heat-resistant bag<br />
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RRP £149 / €169
GOALS<br />
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CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
CURVE GIFT SET<br />
ghd curve creative curl wand, oval dressing brush,<br />
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FLIGHT GIFT SET<br />
ghd fl ight travel hairdryer in a protective carry<br />
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RRP £59 / €65
BOSSING IT<br />
Enjoy the rewards you and your team<br />
deserve this <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
These perfectly packaged gift sets are the ideal gift this <strong>Christmas</strong> – whether a present for family,<br />
friends, or yourself. No matter their hair type or length, every client deserves the royal treatment.<br />
BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT ONLY. DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE ROYAL DYNASTY CHRISTMAS COLLECTION FROM GHD.<br />
FOR MORE INFO OR TO BECOME A STOCKIST, CONTACT YOUR GHD ACCOUNT MANAGER OR CALL +44 (0)1924 423400
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DEVELOP YOUR TEAM<br />
FIND YOUR SPECIALISM<br />
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THINK SUSTAINABILITY<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>’S BUSINESS NETWORKING<br />
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THE BOLD<br />
To celebrate the talent across the Aveda Salon Network,<br />
the brand runs the #AvedaArtist competition, where stylists<br />
up and down the UK submit creative images on social media<br />
for the chance to win a shoot mentored by members of the<br />
Aveda Artistic Team. Winners Domenico Sansone from Gina<br />
Conway Salons and Spas, and Maren Moholt from Wonderlab,<br />
joined Aveda’s Jo McKay and Bruno Elorrioroz to get bright<br />
and bold with neon using new Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants,<br />
under the direction of Bea Carmichael and Luke Castillo. The<br />
future’s so bright, you gotta wear shades...<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANA GAUER<br />
38<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
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GO ONLINE to see all competition<br />
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CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
39
“The looks show how<br />
at Aveda salons we<br />
love healthy, shinylooking<br />
hair. We are<br />
able to create vibrant<br />
colours by remaining<br />
true to Aveda’s brand<br />
values, and the Aveda<br />
Full Spectrum Vibrants<br />
shades are 95 per cent<br />
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DOMENICO SANSONE,<br />
GINA CONWAY SALONS AND SPAS<br />
@HERE.IS.DOM<br />
“This competition is a great<br />
opportunity from Aveda to<br />
push ourselves and engage<br />
with our job, to be creative<br />
and spend a fantastic<br />
day surrounded<br />
by like-minded<br />
creative people.<br />
And, of course, the<br />
opportunity to see<br />
our work published<br />
in <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong>”<br />
DOMENICO SANSONE,<br />
GINA CONWAY<br />
SALONS AND SPAS<br />
@HERE.IS.DOM<br />
40 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
HAIR Bruno Elorrioroz (@brunoelorrioroz), Maren Moholt (@hairbymarenm), Jo McKay (@joelouisemckay), Domenico<br />
Sansone (@here.is.dom). CREATIVE DIRECTION Bea Carmichael (@beacarmichael13) and Luke Castillo (@lukeccastillo).<br />
MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio (@lucy.broggio_mua). PHOTOGRAPHY Joana Gauer (@jogauer)<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
“I entered the<br />
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I wanted the opportunity to<br />
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setting from everyday life in the<br />
salon, and the experience of doing<br />
photoshoots and editorial work! With<br />
amazing help from Bea and Luke, the<br />
time on set was amazing and I learnt<br />
so much about the process”<br />
MAREN MOHOLT, WONDERLAB<br />
@HAIRBYMARENM<br />
41
It’s our little<br />
secret<br />
You can’t beat the ease of tape extensions, but they never look as good<br />
as individual bonds… do they? New SECRETS extensions from<br />
Hairdreams are here to change your expectations<br />
42
TAPES HAVE BEEN the biggest game changer in<br />
the extensions market in recent years. Quick to apply,<br />
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what’s not to love? If only you weren’t limited as to<br />
where you could place them. Well… we have a secret<br />
to share with you.<br />
The newest product from Hairdreams is here to<br />
shatter assumptions of what can be achieved with<br />
tape extensions. SECRETS tapes allow stylists<br />
to create volume that’s more imperceptible than<br />
ever before – and in just a few short minutes. The<br />
construction of the new tapes makes it appear as if<br />
the hair has grown directly from the scalp, creating<br />
natural-looking volume and hair fall.<br />
To make these incredible new tapes, Hairdreams<br />
has created an innovative injection procedure to<br />
integrate additional hair into the tapes, rather than<br />
knotting or pressing them flat in the usual way. This<br />
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giving unmistakeable volume that appears to grow<br />
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SECRETS, like all Hairdreams extensions, use only<br />
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fine hair areas where you’d normally reach for a bond<br />
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so just think of the immense volume boost you can<br />
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Shhh…<br />
Worried you’ll have to learn<br />
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43
stronger<br />
44 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
together<br />
It’s Astonishing to think<br />
that Unite – the hair brand<br />
founded by ex-Sassoon<br />
educator and now California<br />
resident Andrew Dale – is<br />
16 years old. But what<br />
a fabulous excuse for a<br />
celebration (not that another<br />
one was needed) for the more<br />
than 1,000 hairdressers<br />
(aka the Unite Family) who<br />
attended Global Session VI,<br />
a weekend of inspiration and<br />
education delivered by Unite’s<br />
global troupe of artistic<br />
directors, editorial stylists<br />
and tastemakers<br />
– @unite_hair #unitefamily<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
45
The performances at San Diego’s historic Balboa Theatre were fast-paced and varied, with<br />
45-minute sections each featuring three artists and focusing on either Editorial Styling,<br />
Cutting or Barbering. Highlights included Brendan O’Sullivan’s high-varnish modern<br />
take on a ’40s victory roll straight out of NYFW; Unite educator Arianna Marino’s<br />
exquisitely cut and tasteful work on a duo of Goth-rock models; an intelligent and<br />
articulate barbering showcase that highlighted the depth and breadth of men’s looks right<br />
now; and a finale of avant-garde looks that not only defied imagination but gravity, too –<br />
Australia’s Shaun McGrath had to climb up a stepladder to put the finishing touches to his<br />
incredible resin creations. Along with a quartet of ‘hot’ LA stylists discussing the pros and<br />
cons of fame forged on Instagram, it was 48 hours of thought-provoking, crowd-pleasing<br />
and above all good-natured fun.<br />
Todd da Silva, US<br />
Paul Stafford, UK<br />
46 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
Diego Miranda, Spain<br />
Gary Baker, UK<br />
Melissa Timperley, UK<br />
Jesse Gaines, US<br />
To see<br />
these looks<br />
come alive, visit<br />
creativeheadmag.com<br />
– @unite_hair #unitefamily<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
47
HAIR BY BRENDAN<br />
Brendan O’Sullivan – for decades the creative director at Regis and now an<br />
international session stylist in his own right – is a key member of the Unite Family.<br />
He worked with more than 60 designers this season across both NYFW and LFW,<br />
and all were amazing! Here he tells <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> about his experiences…<br />
48 CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
How do Unite products deliver for you backstage at<br />
the shows?<br />
When you’re working in the fast-paced backstage<br />
environment, you need products that can help you create<br />
a range of looks. Briefs can change at the last minute<br />
and it’s great to have products that can multi-task and be<br />
layered… the Unite range is perfect for this! Its products<br />
deliver everything I need, from the mirror shine on the<br />
sleek ponytails at the Global Fashion Collective NYFW<br />
show, to the beachy, soft matt waves at Jean Gritsfeldt at<br />
NAMESldn over LFW. We can’t wait to work with the Unite<br />
products and team again next season!<br />
What is it about session work that excites you?<br />
I love playing with textures, styles and techniques. Some<br />
are inspired by the past but given a modern twist, such as<br />
at the EDGII NYFW show, where we did a new take on the<br />
classic ’40s victory roll. I also enjoy creating more extreme<br />
looks such as the super-wet, high shine styles, which<br />
will help shape the next hair trends on the high street.<br />
It’s wonderful to see a take on a style you’ve created<br />
backstage descend into the mainstream.<br />
In general, I truly enjoy the whole collaborative<br />
experience – from liaising with the designer to find the<br />
perfect hair design that will help convey the message<br />
behind their collection, to working with my amazing team<br />
who all pull together to help deliver the look. Then, of<br />
course, working with the fabulous models, production and<br />
make-up teams. It really takes an army of people to bring<br />
the show together – and I love every part of it.<br />
In which ways does your session work enhance your<br />
Amersham salon business?<br />
Our clients love that the fact that two of our senior stylists<br />
and I do session work. They love that we are backstage<br />
creating new hair trends all over the world and not just<br />
following the trends. Where possible, we offer our insalon<br />
team the opportunity to assist, with some travelling<br />
around the world to work at fashion weeks and on<br />
editorials in London, Milan, Paris and New York.<br />
As a result, we are now known in our town as ‘the<br />
salon to go to’ and this is reflected in our pricing – our<br />
clients are prepared to pay premium rates for the comfort<br />
of being treated by our top stylists, who have gained<br />
knowledge and expertise from all over the world. This<br />
has led to even more VIP and celebrity bookings, enticing<br />
clients who would usually travel to London to have their<br />
hair done.<br />
As a business we really utilise the content gathered<br />
from our various shows and editorials to showcase our<br />
work in the salon window, across our social channels and<br />
website. Allowing our client base to follow our adventures<br />
via our Instagram, updating our stylist bios on our website<br />
and placing videos of the looks we’ve created backstage<br />
on our social networks is great for the bottom line, helping<br />
with bookings and product sales. It’s also good for teambuilding<br />
and morale, helping us to attract great staff who<br />
know we support them both in and out of the salon. It’s of<br />
great benefit to all areas of our business.<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
NEW YORK<br />
GLOBAL FASHION<br />
COLLECTIVE AC HOUSE<br />
A high ponytail with a Chinese<br />
staircase braid<br />
LONDON<br />
SYZYGY<br />
Ponytail with<br />
extension<br />
and ring<br />
Unite<br />
products<br />
are available<br />
exclusively in the UK<br />
from Salon Success<br />
NAMESLDN<br />
JEAN GRITSFELDT<br />
Rock chic beach vibe<br />
LEAF XIA<br />
EDGII POWER VIBE<br />
A modern take on a ’40s<br />
victory roll<br />
Looks were based on<br />
old Chinese drawings<br />
Leaf XIA photography by Leandro. EDGII Power Vibe photography by Mike Coppola. AC House images courtesy of Global Fashion Collective. Jean Gritsfeldt and Syzygy photography by Jen Baker.<br />
– @unite_hair #unitefamily<br />
49
Two things you<br />
should know<br />
about the new<br />
BaByliss 9000<br />
straightener…
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
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#greathairanywhere
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
• Powered by<br />
lithium-ion for<br />
sustained power<br />
performance<br />
• Micro Heating<br />
Matrix gives<br />
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• Three<br />
temperature<br />
settings: 160˚C,<br />
180˚C, 200˚C<br />
• Three-hour<br />
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• Travel storage<br />
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• Two-year<br />
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Cordless?<br />
This is different.<br />
Yes, we know. Cordless isn’t new. But the BaByliss 9000 Cordless<br />
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#greathairanywhere
“The look at Matty Bovan S/S20 was<br />
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That’s why we used the BaByliss 9000<br />
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Syd Hayes,<br />
international session stylist<br />
#greathairanywhere
A new era in<br />
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RRP £250. Available at babyliss.co.uk and selected salons.<br />
For more information contact info@babylisspro.co.uk<br />
#greathairanywhere
event<br />
WRONG TIME<br />
WRONG PLACE<br />
WRONG EVERYTHING<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong> presents<br />
Something sub-standard, hosted by Ky Wilson<br />
Monday 18 November, London SE1<br />
From 7pm until 10pm (ish)<br />
BOTHERED?<br />
Tickets £30 or two for £50<br />
Club member tickets only £20 each<br />
Includes food, drink and ‘entertainment’<br />
Buy online at creativeheadmag.com/store or call 01434 610416<br />
creativeheadmag.com @creativeheadmag #badsalon
CREATE <strong>HEAD</strong>-TURNING<br />
PARTY LOOKS WITH<br />
TANGLE TEEZER’S<br />
HAIRBRUSHES AND<br />
ADD SOME CHRISTMAS<br />
PIZZAZZ WITH THE<br />
NEW SILVER SPARKLE<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Party<br />
people<br />
THE TANGLE TEEZER hairbrush<br />
range will help you give clients<br />
incredible party looks for a big night<br />
out this festive season. This textured<br />
half-up, half-down style is the<br />
perfect way to glam up those who<br />
want height and volume with a<br />
bit of an edge. The height can<br />
be adjusted to suit your client,<br />
allowing them to wear the<br />
look with confidence.<br />
Add a sprinkle of glitter and<br />
daily dazzle with the new<br />
Silver Sparkle Collection. The<br />
Original detangling hairbrush<br />
and The Wet Detangler<br />
are here to add a touch of<br />
glamour to your routine with<br />
their glittering finishes.<br />
52<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
STEP ONE<br />
First, detangle wet hair with The Wet Detangler detangling<br />
hairbrush. The unique, two-tiered teeth effortlessly glide<br />
through the hair, removing knots and tangles without pulling<br />
or tugging.<br />
STEP TWO<br />
Blow-dry the hair in sections using the Blow-Styling Round<br />
Tool. Rotate the hairbrush in a curling motion, allowing the<br />
hair to bevel around the barrel. Wrap and pin each section to<br />
set the curl and leave to cool.<br />
STEP THREE<br />
Release the curls and gently brush through with The Ultimate<br />
finishing hairbrush to define movement, add shine and style<br />
the hair.<br />
STEP FOUR<br />
Take a triangular section at the top of the head, then create a<br />
small rectangular section underneath and place a hidden braid.<br />
This will form a base to pin the side and top sections into.<br />
STEP FIVE<br />
Using the Back-Combing hairbrush, back-comb the side<br />
panels and pin into the braid to secure. Then back-comb the<br />
top section of the hair to create volume.<br />
STEP SIX<br />
Once you’ve achieved the desired volume, pin the hair in<br />
place to secure the shape. Detail the look to personalise, and<br />
add an accessory at the back to finish.<br />
Shine on with the new Silver Sparkle collection.<br />
Contact sales@tangleteezer.com or call 020 7738 4458 to find your nearest distributor<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
53
ALL part OF<br />
With a returning client ratio of about 95 per cent and an average salon bill of £135,<br />
Michael Van Clarke knows a little something about building a business that delights.<br />
The <strong>2019</strong> Most Wanted Best Salon Experience winner takes us on a journey…<br />
THIS ISN’T MICHAEL VAN CLARKE’S first Most Wanted rodeo. With<br />
awards for Best Salon Experience, Best Salon Team and Business Thinker,<br />
he’s a veteran at getting the best out of his staff and delivering a fivestar<br />
service for his discerning clientele in London’s Marylebone. But<br />
perhaps it’s the fact that he’s won Best Salon Experience again, nine<br />
years after the last, that is most impressive – because it illustrates a<br />
consistency of luxury service that is incredibly tough to keep up.<br />
“Maintaining and improving service standards over time takes<br />
immense effort and oversight from the whole team,” Michael admits.<br />
“The recognition of an award like this is a great boost and helps the team<br />
keep focused on that continuing journey.”<br />
That journey – knowing its key touchpoints and ensuring<br />
the whole team knows what is expected at all times – is<br />
paramount, and it starts from<br />
the booking. More than 65 per<br />
<strong>2019</strong><br />
cent of clients book their next<br />
54<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
appointment before they leave, either at the front<br />
desk or via the in-salon iPad. On the telephone, staff<br />
know their scripts and always ensure clients can hear<br />
a smile in their voice.<br />
There’s a three-second rule from when the client<br />
walks in to being greeted by a staff member, and<br />
everyone is shown the chef’s menu for the in-house<br />
deli, launched in 2015. Best practice is mapped out for<br />
staff down to individual greetings, gowning, seating<br />
clients, consultations, the backwash trip, returning<br />
to their seat and the handover back to the stylist.<br />
Nothing is left to chance.<br />
The same can be said when leaving the salon – it<br />
is always assumed that the client will book their<br />
that’s one of the reasons why the average bill is £135 inclusive of<br />
VAT and client retention runs between 92 and 95 per cent.<br />
Each team member has a success notebook that allows them<br />
to record daily, weekly, monthly and quarterly performance,<br />
making notes in real time that can be transferred onto a client’s<br />
history and referred back to. The booklet is also used during staff<br />
appraisals, during which personalised targets and performance<br />
are assessed and evaluated. Every operator is encouraged to take<br />
control of their productivity and manage their business… while<br />
having the full support of the salon.<br />
THE service<br />
next appointment, and they’ll want to leave with the<br />
products used during their service. Every client must<br />
leave on a high…<br />
Having spent 10 years at John Frieda before<br />
launching his own salon 30 years ago, Michael today<br />
still has more than 100 clients that he started to look<br />
after when he was a junior, and more than 1,000<br />
clients who have stayed loyal for 10 years or more. The<br />
essence of great service is that he and the team like<br />
to say ‘yes’, whatever the request – it’s that attitude<br />
HOW TO DELIGHT like MVC<br />
• A salon host takes new clients on a tour of the 3,000sq ft salon<br />
• An in-house deli opens from 7.30am<br />
• Complimentary naturally-flavoured water and chocolates<br />
• Seasonal fresh flower displays<br />
• Book back blow-drys, where clients can book in one week<br />
after their first cut for any necessary tweaks<br />
• Calls to new clients for honest feedback<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong><br />
55
Northern Hair Loss Clinic<br />
HAIR LOSS<br />
Take Back<br />
Control<br />
FOR CLIENTS SUFFERING WITH THINNING HAIR AND HAIR LOSS, THE EFFECT ON SELF-CONFIDENCE CAN BE HUGE.<br />
STYLISTS ARE IN AN INCREDIBLE POSITION TO GIVE CLIENTS BACK THEIR SMILE…<br />
MORE THAN EVER we are aware of the impact of image on mental<br />
health and wellbeing, and for clients suffering with thinning hair<br />
and hair loss, the effect on their confidence can be sizeable. A stylist<br />
can be someone who is understanding and sympathetic, and the<br />
expert who can offer REAL solutions.<br />
The two main causes of hair loss and thinning are the natural<br />
ageing process, and damage linked to external environmental<br />
factors such as pollution, dyeing hair and using the wrong products.<br />
So how do you broach the subject? “I would never bring up a<br />
client’s hair loss first,” says Ruffians’ creative director, Denis<br />
Robinson. “I want them to feel relaxed enough to discuss such a<br />
sensitive topic.”<br />
However, when that conversation does inevitably rear its head,<br />
hairdressers need to be comfortable speaking honestly. Hayley<br />
Jennings and Jessica Patrick, co-directors of the Northern Hair<br />
Loss Clinic, say: “Whatever the cause, it’s an important subject that<br />
shouldn’t be ignored. It’s a good idea to let the client take the lead.”<br />
WILL WILLIAMS, WILLIAMS & RICE, LONDON<br />
“We use a treatment called fractional mesotherapy, which<br />
creates hair growth by pushing vitamins and minerals<br />
under the scalp. We check the client’s head for live follicles<br />
using a microscopic camera. If suitable, we use a pen that<br />
has nine micro-fine needles rotating at 9,000 rpm to make<br />
puncture marks in the skin. We then syringe the topical<br />
product on to the skin and massage it in. Many clients see<br />
new hair after two treatments but should have at least five.”<br />
56<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
The<br />
MANTA<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> ADVERTORIAL<br />
THE MANTA IS the award-winning creation of hairdresser<br />
Tim Binnington, who used his 25 years of hands-on<br />
experience with the latest materials and technology to<br />
develop a brush that would reinvent the way hair is treated.<br />
Perfect for the backwash thanks to its non-slip grip, it can<br />
be used on wet and dry hair and is suitable for everyone,<br />
including all types of hair extensions and wigs.<br />
Made from soft-touch silicone it features pioneering,<br />
patented FLEXGUARD technology on the base, enabling<br />
each bristle to have a full range of motion to gently free knots<br />
and minimise breakage. Its ergonomic design means it fi ts<br />
comfortably in the hand and the more the user bends and<br />
fl exes it, the more fl exible it becomes. With no rough edges<br />
to catch or tear the hair shaft, The MANTA glides responsively<br />
through hair for minimum breakage and maximum shine.<br />
It’s the fi rst brush to mould to the shape of your hand,<br />
creating less tension on each strand while massaging the<br />
scalp to promote healthy hair growth.<br />
In just one year it has scooped eight awards, including<br />
prizes from Woman and Home magazine and BBC1’s The<br />
Customer is Always Right. This is a tool that’s essential<br />
for anyone who wants healthy and shiny hair, who wears<br />
extensions or is struggling with hair loss, breakage, thinning<br />
or fi ne hair. It’s time to make The MANTA your mantra…<br />
“My MANTA<br />
is an essential<br />
part of my<br />
kit and I use<br />
it on every<br />
client I see,<br />
so I jumped at<br />
the chance to<br />
create my own<br />
limited edition<br />
colour – deep<br />
plum and rose<br />
gold – a perfect<br />
stocking fi ller”<br />
Zoë Irwin, The MANTA<br />
brand ambassador<br />
Want to add this TLC tool to your kit and your retail shelves? Contact The MANTA on ds@mantahair.com or visit mantahair.com<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 57
#HairLoss<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER<br />
Back to Basics<br />
While some may want to immediately turn to products and<br />
treatments to help tackle hair loss and thinning, it’s important<br />
to also offer options that can be provided in the salon chair.<br />
“Don’t be afraid to talk about colour,” says Francesco Group<br />
creative director, Heather Shaw. “Clients suffering with hair<br />
thinning may feel reluctant but clever placement will give<br />
the illusion of thicker-looking hair. A deeper toner on the<br />
perimeter of the hair will act as padding, making it look fuller.<br />
Even layering different tones within the hair will give a multidimensional<br />
look.”<br />
And while trimming hair might sound scary to your client<br />
if they’re desperately trying to keep hold of what is left, any<br />
stylist knows that the right cut can help the client make the<br />
most of their locks. “It’s amazing what can be achieved with<br />
some clever cutting,” says Denis.<br />
If you have clients experiencing reduced hair thickness<br />
and quality, recommending a tailored regime – and one that<br />
includes in-salon treatments at the backwash – can really help.<br />
Nioxin in particular has customised its products to tackle hair<br />
thinning from many different angles. Sophie Ruggiero, Wella<br />
Professionals education manager, says: “Nioxin is skincare for<br />
your scalp, which essentially is an extension of the skin on your<br />
face. To ensure you have the best environment for hair to grow,<br />
Nioxin works on the three Ds: derma, density and diameter.”<br />
Of course, for some clients, using a supplement and specific<br />
product routine may not be enough, which is where stylists<br />
should consider advising their customers to try extensions or<br />
a hair piece. Remi Cachet has The Master Parting, which is<br />
specifically designed for hair loss replacement. The bespoke<br />
design was created by Victoria Lynch, managing director<br />
of Remi Cachet, for her clients suffering with hair loss.<br />
Handmade using Russian and Mongolian hair, there are<br />
different application methods including a monofilament top<br />
with clips, a lace system or micro rings. “Many of my clients are<br />
referrals who have already been identified as having an issue,”<br />
says Victoria, who’s also a qualified hair replacement specialist.<br />
“Many clients I see actually have thinning hair, and not a hair<br />
loss issue, which is a common mistake by stylists. Being patient<br />
and sensitive are the two main skills you need as they are very<br />
vulnerable and scared.<br />
“Training on products, correct placement and application to<br />
avoid further damage are so crucial for the client’s wellbeing –<br />
and that will allow their confidence to grow.”<br />
Remi Cachet Master Parting<br />
Home comforts<br />
Even the most diligent of clients who invest a lot of time and<br />
money on their hair in the salon, can fall down when it comes<br />
to maintaining that level at home.<br />
New generation brushes from Tangle Teezer, The Knot Dr.<br />
and The MANTA put that client and their hair needs front<br />
and centre when it comes to innovation, creating tools that<br />
are perfectly designed to gently work through locks without<br />
pulling or snapping strands. Rebecca Morgan, owner of<br />
Morgan’s Hair, Beauty and Wigs, uses The Knot Dr. in her<br />
salons, says: “It’s perfect for detangling hair gently without<br />
pulling out lots of strands. What’s really great about it is that<br />
it’s perfect for wigs and extensions. It doesn’t cause static in<br />
human hair or synthetic pieces so keeps it manageable.”<br />
Likewise with The MANTA brush, the product has been<br />
specifically designed to limit damage to the hair. Zoë Irwin,<br />
ambassador for the brand, says: “The MANTA is the first brush<br />
to mould to the shape of your hand and scalp, creating less<br />
tension on each strand while stimulating the scalp to promote<br />
healthy growth. Being extra careful and gentle while washing<br />
makes a huge difference to the thickness of hair. Creating less<br />
tangles as you cleanse means maintaining hair fullness.”<br />
“It’s important to educate people on how to look after their<br />
hair to help fight thinning and loss,” suggests Paul Phillips,<br />
owner of Chopp Hair. “There’s the surface level: protecting<br />
against the elements, not brushing too harshly, but it goes<br />
deeper than that. I believe stress plays the biggest part so I<br />
think it’s key to encourage a more holistic approach.”<br />
REBECCA MORGAN, MORGAN’S HAIR, BEAUTY<br />
AND WIGS, NORTH WALES<br />
“I began working with wigs when a close friend came to<br />
me to ask for advice after being diagnosed with cancer.<br />
Since then I’ve learnt so much about the subject but<br />
there’s always something new that surprises me. It’s<br />
important for the client to see a trichologist to check their<br />
scalp and perform tests to find out the exact cause. Of<br />
course, there’s often a huge waiting list to see a specialist<br />
and for many people the trauma of being without hair<br />
means they can’t wait. Sometimes when people come in<br />
who are experiencing hair loss or hair thinning I try to give<br />
them practical tips such as not washing their hair every<br />
day. This in itself can be a game changer. It puts so much<br />
pressure on the hair and scalp and not using the right<br />
products makes it worse. I also always recommend quality<br />
treatments and a Knot Dr. brush to help limit hair trauma.”<br />
58<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
THICKER, FULLER HAIR<br />
*<br />
IN<br />
30<br />
D<br />
DA<br />
AY<br />
AYS<br />
1Globally selling. 2 Value data Kline & Company<br />
*Guarantee redeemable and full terms and<br />
conditions available at www.nioxin.co.uk<br />
THE NO.1 1 SALON BRAND<br />
FOR THICKER, FULLER HAIR 2<br />
INSPIRED BY PREMIUM SKIN CARE, THE NIOXIN RANGE IS<br />
DESIGNED TO STRENGTHEN, NOURISH AND REPAIR YOUR HAIR<br />
FROM THE INSIDE OUT.<br />
WWW.NIOXIN.COM<br />
SUPPORTED BY<br />
NIOXIN Healthy Child - Coty UK Limited1.indd 1 19/07/<strong>2019</strong> 15:10
#HairLoss<br />
LOSS LEADERS<br />
STANDOUT SOLUTIONS FROM THE SALON FOR CLIENTS SUFFERING WITH HAIR LOSS AND THINNING<br />
Specifically designed for hair loss<br />
and hair replacement, the Master<br />
Parting from Remi Cachet<br />
Elegance range is made<br />
from 100 per cent human<br />
hair. The hairpiece is<br />
handmade and can<br />
last up to 12 months if<br />
looked after properly.<br />
IN-SALON SERVICE<br />
remicachet.com<br />
The first hairpiece from Great<br />
Lengths, GL Volume has been<br />
made specifically for women with<br />
thin hair or sparse spots around<br />
the crown. Fully blendable, it<br />
remains invisible and it means it<br />
stays convincing whatever your<br />
client gets up to.<br />
IN-SALON SERVICE<br />
greatlengths.co.uk<br />
Enhance hair health and<br />
volume with extracts of soja<br />
germ extract, fava bean<br />
extract, pea extract and<br />
kidney bean extract with<br />
the Rescue My. Hair Volume<br />
Shampoo Bar.<br />
RRP £13.95<br />
my-haircare.com<br />
Aveda Invati’s advanced threestep<br />
set starts with an exfoliating<br />
shampoo to remove build-up,<br />
before thickening conditioner<br />
delivers instant fullness to hair.<br />
Finish with 16 spritzes of the<br />
scalp tonic all over the head.<br />
RRP £99<br />
aveda.co.uk<br />
Nioxin’s 3D Intensive Care<br />
six-piece range targets the 3Ds<br />
of derma, density and diameter<br />
to improve the health of the<br />
scalp, increase the thickness<br />
of individual strands and boost<br />
overall condition.<br />
RRP FROM £22.90<br />
nioxin.com<br />
Tangle Teezer’s Fine and Fragile<br />
Detangling Hair Brush<br />
is perfect for those<br />
with colour-treated,<br />
fine or fragile hair, as<br />
it’s gentle on the scalp<br />
and detangles<br />
without pulling.<br />
RRP £12<br />
tangleteezer.com<br />
The Knot Dr.<br />
uses unique<br />
technology<br />
to flex through<br />
tresses, while it’s<br />
oversized bristle<br />
ball tips are perfect<br />
to gently stimulate<br />
the scalp.<br />
RRP FROM £9.99<br />
theknotdr.com<br />
The MANTA is the first brush to<br />
mould to the shape of your<br />
hand, thus creating less<br />
tension on each strand<br />
while also massaging<br />
the scalp to promote<br />
healthy hair growth.<br />
RRP £25<br />
mantahair.com<br />
60<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
62<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
On<br />
balance<br />
A HAIRCUT IS ABOUT BALANCE, CRAFTSMANSHIP AND FASHION, AS<br />
JOE MILLS AND JODY TAYLOR ILLUSTRATE FOR MILLS X PRIMARK. THESE<br />
GENDER-FLUID LOOKS PLACE AUTHENTICITY ABOVE ENVIRONMENT<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENJAMIN VNUK<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 63
64<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 65<br />
HAIR Joe Mills and Jody Taylor for MILLS x PRIMARK, Birmingham. CREATIVE DIRECTION Vivien Vittadello. GROOMING Sarah Exley.<br />
LIGHTING ASSISTANT Sebastian Johansson. DIGI OPERATOR Christopher Bromley. CREATIVE ASSISTANT Lauren Bouch
LIfE in<br />
colour<br />
A collaboration between Christabel Legrand and barber Luka Chitty, this<br />
collection is an expression of change. Channelling a futuristic grunge aesthetic,<br />
brighter colour combinations are explored with more intricate, precise cuts<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY POOCH PURTILL<br />
66<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
COLOUR Christabel Legrand using Pulp Riot. CUTTING Luka Chitty. MAKE-UP Danny Williams.<br />
MODELS Ryan Hampson, Ashley Knight, Jessica Haine<br />
See more and meet<br />
Luka and Christabel at<br />
creativeheadmag.com/PAINT<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 67
Scene<br />
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!<br />
Collaborate<br />
Robert Eaton<br />
YOU SPIN<br />
Vernon Kay and<br />
Patrick Cameron<br />
me round<br />
TV STAR VERNON KAY and legendary Wella favourite Patrick Cameron led a fresh vibe<br />
at the <strong>2019</strong> Wella Professionals TrendVision UK & Ireland Final, held at London’s iconic<br />
Roundhouse. From the enormous video screen box to the central round stage, it was not<br />
business as usual for the 800 guests, illustrated further by the triple threat of creative<br />
presentations. Sassoon Academy explored its rich 65-year heritage in MonoFlouro, inspired<br />
by the work of Bauhaus master Josef Albers. There was an embarrassment of riches as the<br />
Collaborate presentation saw HOB Salons, Sanrizz, Lara Johnson Lifestyle, Charlie Taylor,<br />
Crow Street Collective by Darren Lacken, Goldsworthy’s and D&J Ambrose celebrate<br />
diversity in beauty. Finally, Wella UK & Ireland technical director Robert Eaton and his<br />
team from Russell Eaton unveiled Celestial, an otherworldly presentation that made the<br />
most of those huge video screens. It was then on to reveal the winners, with the UK &<br />
Ireland Gold <strong>Creative</strong> and Color Artist victors set to enjoy a trip to Seville early next year<br />
for the International TrendVision Award <strong>Creative</strong> Retreat.<br />
Goldsworthy’s Robert Eaton<br />
68<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong>
Sassoon<br />
Charlie Taylor<br />
And the winners are…<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> Artist<br />
Gold: Sophie Kinloch, McIntyres<br />
Silver: Brandon Messinger,<br />
The Hair Movement<br />
Bronze: Elaine Sneddon, Joseph Ferraro Hair<br />
Color Artist<br />
Gold: Heather Mackenzie, The Style Bar<br />
Silver: Thomas Frear, Spirit Hair Design<br />
Bronze: Joanne Roe, KH Hair Leicester<br />
Heather Mackenzie<br />
Gjorgi Sokolov Sophie Kinloch<br />
People’s Choice Award<br />
Gjorgi Sokolov, Headmasters Richmond<br />
Runway<br />
UK & Ireland: Stephanie Darbyshire,<br />
Toni&Guy Deansgate<br />
Men’s Grooming<br />
UK & Ireland: Dexter Dapper Johnson,<br />
Toni&Guy Covent Garden<br />
Darren Ambrose<br />
Lara Johnson Lifestyle<br />
The winners<br />
Dexter Dapper Johnson<br />
Stephanie Darbyshire<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 69
A VIENNESE<br />
whirl<br />
VIENNA – HOME OF OPERA, Mozart and numerous other<br />
creative endeavours, felt like the perfect setting for Goldwell’s<br />
<strong>2019</strong> Global Zoom. It proved to be a poignant evening with<br />
the announcement that this would be the last Global Zoom<br />
event, to be replaced by a brand new, revamped experience<br />
for 2020. Singapore didn’t quite manage a clean sweep, as the<br />
Netherlands had in 2018, but won an impressive two of the three<br />
Gold awards, with Russia taking the other prize. There was<br />
good news for the British contingency though, who all won the<br />
Stylists’ Favorite awards – Lauren Roma Hanlon from Slunks<br />
in Cardiff, Richard Munslow of Toni&Guy Hemel Hempstead<br />
and Courtney Cairns from Headromance in Havant, who also<br />
scooped the Bronze award for New Talent. More than 3,000<br />
global guests enjoyed a preview of the new Hair | Color | Style<br />
brand statement, a style bible for Goldwell’s coming year, as<br />
well as launches from Goldwell, KMS and Oribe and the reveal<br />
of its newest acquisition, tool brand VARIS. The new Goldwell<br />
Couture collection for 2020, INTREPID, took to the stage, as<br />
did new collections from Hare & Bone, M&P, ICONO and a<br />
demonstration by Mario Krankl. Mario’s final look was crowned<br />
with seven priceless diamond stars once owned and worn by<br />
Elizabeth, Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary.<br />
The Hare & Bone team<br />
Lauren Roma Hanlon<br />
British judges Nicola<br />
Smyth and Shane Bennett<br />
Courtey Cairns<br />
Mario Krankl<br />
Sam Burnett<br />
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<strong>Creative</strong> Colorist Gold<br />
M&P<br />
Jamie Benny<br />
And the<br />
winners are…<br />
<strong>Creative</strong> Colorist<br />
GOLD<br />
Russia<br />
SILVER<br />
Vietnam<br />
BRONZE<br />
Taiwan<br />
STYLISTS’ FAVORITE<br />
Lauren Roma Hanlon<br />
New Talent<br />
GOLD<br />
Singapore<br />
SILVER<br />
Malaysia<br />
BRONZE<br />
Great Britain<br />
STYLISTS’ FAVORITE<br />
Courtney Cairns<br />
Partner<br />
GOLD<br />
Singapore<br />
SILVER<br />
Vietnam<br />
BRONZE<br />
Russia<br />
STYLISTS’ FAVORITE<br />
Richard Munslow<br />
Richard Munslow<br />
The judges<br />
The winners New Talent Gold<br />
Courtney Cairns<br />
Partner Gold<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 71
Bea Carmichael Ian Michael Black<br />
Ricardo Dinis<br />
WELCOME TO THE<br />
Worldhood<br />
MEMBERS of the Aveda global artistic team kicked off a nine-day Worldhood<br />
2.0 tour of UK and Ireland in colourful style at Aveda’s Sky Room in London.<br />
The event offered a sneak-peek of what to expect from the coming season<br />
as well as the brand’s new colour range, Full Spectrum Vibrants. Set against<br />
a backdrop of clashing fashion, technical cuts and some serious model<br />
attitude, the eye-popping shades came alive during the launch. Ian Michael<br />
Black, Aveda’s global artistic director for colour, showcased a stunning array<br />
of shades (our favourite result was the mix of various hues of aubergine,<br />
boysenberry and violet on a bleached blonde pixie crop), while Ricardo Dinis<br />
and Bea Carmichael got busy with the styling, unveiling a plethora of textures<br />
and finishes to best show off the rainbow of bold shades on offer.<br />
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Paddy McDougall, Nicola<br />
Clarke and Nick Irwin<br />
Nicola with Deborah Murtha<br />
Power<br />
OF THREE<br />
From being backstage at London Fashion Week to working<br />
on a tropical island with Leonardo DiCaprio, The Coterie’s<br />
first trip to Liverpool was stuffed with great stories of<br />
A-list talent. Hosted by <strong>Creative</strong> <strong>HEAD</strong>’s Deborah Murtha,<br />
and sponsored by BaByliss PRO, a huge crowd came<br />
together and was first treated to the dynamic duo of Paddy<br />
McDougall, the 2018 The It List It Guy, and his mentor<br />
Nick Irwin, a renowned session stylist. As a firm believer in<br />
supporting young talent, Nick has worked with Paddy on<br />
several projects, including shoots for Hunger magazine and<br />
at shows, and the two talked about collaboration. Then it was<br />
over to Nicola Clarke, the lady responsible for colouring the<br />
tresses of a host of Hollywood stars, who recalled winning her<br />
place as Sam McKnight’s assistant and how you have to work<br />
hard when your client list is packed with big names. “My<br />
family know I have to drop things at short notice. If Madonna<br />
calls… you’re available,” she said. Now with her own salon,<br />
she offers a creative place for big name hairdressers who<br />
want to drop in and use a chair – think Tracey Cunningham,<br />
Tyler Johnston and Sam McKnight.<br />
SEE MORE from the event online at<br />
creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie<br />
CREATIVE <strong>HEAD</strong> 73
A walk down memory lane<br />
at #TheCoterie in Liverpool<br />
with @creativeheadmag<br />
Werk, werk, werk! On set<br />
with #cateblanchett<br />
@armanibeauty<br />
Just hanging out with a couple of hair<br />
legends. Congrats @sammcknight1 for<br />
your #MWIT win. #KenORourke<br />
Love working with<br />
@madonna and travelling<br />
the world #LeoSisters<br />
In the<br />
frame<br />
Colour legend Nicola Clarke<br />
(@nicolaclarkecolour), founder<br />
of Nicola Clarke at John Frieda<br />
Salons, snaps away<br />
Finally @dualipa unwraps<br />
her new blonde. Thanks to<br />
@annacofone for trusting me<br />
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us<br />
a snapshot of your world? Tweet<br />
us at @creativeheadmag now!<br />
Brunette beauty<br />
@emilia-clarke. Colour by<br />
me, bob by @jennychohair<br />
#Virtue #ColorKick<br />
Cate Blanchett ready to<br />
accept the Golden Icon Award<br />
at the <strong>2019</strong> @zurichfilmfestival<br />
Happy Birthday<br />
@katemossagency,<br />
love you to pieces<br />
@marygreenwell, Cate and me – we<br />
always find time for a giggle. Captured<br />
by @gregwilliamsphotography<br />
PEACHY #repost<br />
@fearnecotton<br />
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