Nomad issue #23

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ISSUE 23| OCTOBER | FREE COPY 

LAMU ON REPEAT 

WHY WE’RE STILL ENCHANTED 

WEEKEND AWAY 

FROM DAR 

BABY ON 

BOARD 

DISCOVERING 

GABON

Find new tastes in a 

country full of flavour. 

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1

2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

BUSINESS & LEISURE 

IN A SERENE ENVIRONMENT 

FOR BOOKING 

reservations.kenya@planhotel.com 


@amidoshishah 

SALT COLLECTION 2019 

Aventurine & Polished Brass and Aventurine & Polished Brass 

www.amidoshishah.com

EDITOR’S NOTE 

IT’S EASIER TO SPLURGE WHEN PAYING IN FOREIGN CURRENCY 

I 

remember my parents, my mom especially, always being avid collectors. She 

had this large tin that was packed with coins brought back from her travels, the 

fridge was always dotted with unique magnets and don’t even get me started on 

her collection of Asian fabrics. As I go on more trips of my own, I am realizing 

that I’m slowly plunging into this same sunken place, never mind that I’m actually 

a bit of a minimalist especially with spaces like my apartment. 

It’s not always the most practical souvenirs either. I never think, “I actually need a wine 

cork, and this hand carved one from Ubud will be just perfect.” Oh no no no. I am drawn 

to that heavy beaded dinosaur stuffed with ashes from an indigenous tree, blessed by 

the ancestors of that land and said to cure things like overthinking, lactose intolerance 

and gout. Never mind that it’s probably going to be way above my weight limit at the 

airport, and the “ashes” might be flagged as some illegal substance that gets me locked up 

abroad. 

I have prized souvenirs, too, like an antique, bohemian, Morocan coffee set that I 

snagged from the owner of some hole-in-the-wall restaurant that I convinced to sell to me. 

My box of Ethiopian coffee beans was stolen from the table in my hotel room by a colobus 

monkey who proceeded to jeer at me from the top of a baobab tree all afternoon. I recently 

got flavour-bomb spiced tea from a Zanzibari spice farm, mixes like cardamom-mangolemongrass-and-tea. 

I don’t even like tea or coffee. 

Food can make for great souvenirs too, and some of my favourites to receive have been 

Swiss chocolates, Turkish baklava and dates from Oman. Ever notice, though, how much 

easier it is to splurge on overpriced goods when you’re paying in foreign currency? 

Most recently, I got a miniature dhow in Lamu for Ksh 700. What a bargain! Our 

souvenirs for you, however, come by way of all the exciting stories and photographs we 

brought back from the trip, and I hope you will enjoy this issue from our all-time favourite 

part of Kenya. 

@WattaOnTheGo 

Wendy Watta 

NOMAD ISSUE 22 · OCT/NOV 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA 

CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, JOE WAHOME, ANNA WUGHANGA, FAITH KANJA, MAURICE SCHUTGENS, KARANJA NZISA, OSSE GRECCA SINARE 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, SEBASTIAN WANZALLA, MEHLAM AKBARALI, PETER NDUNG’U 

OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO 

PRINTED BY RAMCO PRINTING PRESS 

NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica 


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ON THE COVER 

PEPONI HOTEL 

LAMU TOP 

ROOM VIEW 

PHOTOGRAPHED 

BY BRIAN SIAMBI 

CONTENTS 

26 

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW 

Lamu has it all: stunning seafront 

hotels, untouched beaches, palm 

trees, traditional dhows, friendly 

people, exotic birds and more. We 

revisit this Kenyan favourite through 

the iconic Peponi Hotel. 


In this issue 

46 

10 

19 

10. TOP SHOTS 

This month’s featured photographers 

capture pelicans at Lake Elementaita and 

gerenuks at Samburu National Reserve. 

14. NEWS 

Radisson Blu Hotel & Residence, Nairobi 

Arboretum Opens, The world’s oldest 

airline, KLM, turns 100, and more. 

16. WHATS ON 

From Lamu Cultural Festival and Rusinga 

Festival to The Grand Nairobi Race, find a 

round-up of must-attend events this season. 

22. GLOBETROTTERS 

We talk to Grace Mwari about riding in 

South East Asia, Southern Africa, East 

Africa, Morocco and parts of Europe. 

50. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS 

Luxury PR consultant and award winning 

fashion blogger Lucia Musau gives us a 

peek inside her travel bag. 

FEATURES 

15. MAGICAL KENYA TRAVEL EXPO 2019 

We were in attendance at the 9th edition 

of MKTE. Here’s what went down. 

19. SEGERA PASSING OUT PARADE 

Segera Retreat unveils an all-female antipoaching 

unit at a colourful parade. 

28. IDYLLIC LAMU 

We revisit this Kenyan island through the 

iconic Peponi Hotel 

36. OLD TOWN ROAD 

Faced with a slowly evolving historic town, 

Wendy Watta muses that some places 

should perhaps just be left untouched. 

42. WHERE TO STAY 

We suggest some of our favourite 

properties in Lamu to consider on your 

next trip to the island. 

46. WEEKEND AWAY FROM DAR 

Tanzanian Photographer Osse shares 

stunning photos from his favourite spots 

and hotels ideal for a quick weekend 

jaunt away from Dar es Salaam. 

REGULARS 

20. THE CONCEPT OF TIME 

After a visit to Olorgesailie prehistoric 

site, Samantha wonders how to break the 

centuries down to young children who still 

think waiting two ‘sleeps’ for a beloved 

Auntie to visit seems an age. 

22. BABY ON BOARD! 

Anna Wughanga shares her no-holds 

barred approach to travelling to Venice, 

Italy, three months postpartum, with a 

baby in tow. 

44. GABON: LONG ROAD TO LOPÉ 

NATIONAL PARK 

Gabon is a country of impenetrable 

rainforests, wild coastlines teeming with 

marine life and home to some of the most 

elusive species on the continent, writes 

Maurice Schutgens. 

48. COTTAR’S CELEBRATES 100 YEARS 

IN KENYA 

Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp and bush 

villa: as the family celebrates a milestone, 

we look back at their history in Kenya. 

52. LAST WORD: EXPENSIVE LESSONS 

The trip to South East Europe that didn’t 

quite go as planned. 


Sebastian Wanzalla 

Instagram: @wanzalla 

I took this shot of pelicans at Lake 

Elementaita at around 6:00pm using a 

Canon 5DMK IV camera with a focal 

length of 200, and a Canon 70-200mm 

F2.8 lens. 

TIP: The typical sunset shot sometimes 

just falls short. Try and look around for 

interesting compositions and different 

angles to create better imagery. 


TOP SHOTS 


TOP SHOTS 

MELAM AKBARALI 

Instagram: @mehlamakbarali10 

A gerenuk can go its entire life without 

water! I got this shot while on a game 

drive at around 11:00am at Samburu 

National Reserve, which is well known 

for these long-necked antelopes. I used 

a Nikon D3300 with the settings: ISO 

200, 1/600 and F6.3, with a Tamron 

18-200mm lens.

@cozypointhomes 

Travel without feeling foreign 

info@cozypointhomes.com || +25 472 6313101 

www.cozypointhomes.com

NEWS 

RADISSON BLU HOTEL & RESIDENCE, NAIROBI ARBORETUM OPENS 

This is the third addition of hotels by the Radisson Hotel Group in Nairobi following Radisson Blu Hotel, 

Nairobi Upperhill and Park Inn by Radisson Nairobi Westlands. Overlooking the Arboretum Park and 

adjacent to the State House within the affluent Kilimani neighbourhood, the hotel boasts of an ideal 

location that allows its guests to explore the city. Top notch facilities such as a signature heated infinity 

pool and business lounges are a great attraction. The hotel’s 122 rooms and suites feature contemporary 

interiors, private balconies, upscale amenities and exclusive services like free Wi-Fi, individual climate 

control and 24-hour room service. The hotel rooms are 37 square meters in size. The one-bedroom 

apartments are 67 square meters while the 2-bedroom apartments are over 100 square meters. 

THE WORLD’S OLDEST 

AIRLINE, KLM, TURNS 100 

Dutch flag carrier, KLM, celebrated its 100th anniversary 

having been founded on October 7th 1919, making it 

one of the oldest airlines in the world still operating under 

its original name. KLM has through the years grown 

to become a major player in the international airline 

landscape, connecting to about 165 destinations from its 

hub at Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam. The airline is known 

for being a pioneer. In 1966, it was the first to launch an 

in-flight magazine, Holland Herald (still in print today), and 

the first to even host an in-flight DJ. Now, a self-guiding 

robot named Spencer assists travelers in KLM’s Amsterdam 

hub, one of the first airport robots. As they look to the 

next 100 years, they are keen to stay on the cutting edge 

of aviation technology while experimenting with more 

sustainable fuel sources. 


EVENTS 

MAGICAL TRAVEL 

EXPO 2019 

By Clara Orina 

Photos courtesy MKTE 

The 9th edition of the Magical Kenya Travel Expo (MKTE) 

came to a close after three days of a highly engaging event 

which saw over 200 exhibitors showcase their products to 

over 150 global buyers from Kenya’s 25 key source markets. 

Speaking at the event, CS for tourism & wildlife, Najib 

Balala, said that the presence of over 134 buyers is a positive 

indication of their readiness to sell this destination to all the 

visitors within their networks. 

“To sustain our growth in the tourism sector, the 

government has refocused its efforts on areas of safety 

and security, infrastructure improvement, incentives as well 

as sustained campaigns on source markets to increase 

destination awareness,” he said. 

This year’s event which took place from 3rd to 5th 

October made for better engagement as well as innovative 

ideas that will drive the sector. There were round table 

discussions on the latest tourism trends as well as insights 

on how the sector can capitalize on technology to drive 

business. 

For instance, one of the meetings was about the 

significance of storytelling in driving business achievement. 

Presently, local storytellers form an integral part of telling the 

African story in a way that is meaningful and memorable. 

However, this can only work when the main drivers of tourism 

such as travel agencies, tourism boards as well as hotels 

and other accommodation facilities recognize the value of 

stories and the people who narrate them in defining the travel 

experience. 

The last day of the event tackled the role of big data in 

informing the future of responsible and sustainable tourism. 

Data drives a great percentage of decision making and is 

vital to ensure proper planning, which consequently assists in 

maintaining the delicate balance between profitability and 

sustainability. 

Through its matchmaking programme, the MKTE 2019 

event targeted to deliver over 5,000 confirmed meetings. A 

standby matchmaking team was at the hosted buyers lounge 

to assist with this in case one needed assistance with their 

appointments. 

“MKTE affords our partners the opportunity to access a 

gathering of Africa’s tourism leaders, policy makers, global 

buyers, local and international media,” said KTB CEO Dr. 

Betty Radier. “It is becoming a must-attend event for travel 

trade regionally and beyond.” 

Other tourism boards that also participated in the event 

and sought to position themselves as major destinations in 

the region were from South Africa, Rwanda, Seychelles and 

Uganda. 


NEWS 

LAMU CULTURAL FESTIVAL 2019 

Held annually in November, The Lamu Cultural Festival 

brings together both local and international tourists for 

the three to four day event that culminates in a famous 

dhow race. The festival is a celebration of both the past 

and future, and the beliefs and traditions that are the 

very heart and soul of the Lamu community. Several 

competitions, races and activities are often showcased, 

and these include traditional Swahili poetry, henna 

painting, bao competitions, swimming races, donkey 

races, traditional artisan craft making, traditional dancing 

and music as well as a chance to sample local cuisine. 

Most visitors to the island fall in love with its relaxed and 

peaceful lifestyle, and visiting during the Lamu Cultural 

Festival is a chance to experience Lamu life at its most 

exuberant and joyous. Look out for this year’s dates on 

www.lamu.go.ke 

RUSINGA FESTIVAL 2019 

The 8th edition of the Rusinga Festival will 

be taking place on 19th and 20th December 

on Rusinga Island, - one of the gems on Lake 

Victoria. Expect two days of music, fashion, 

film, food, artistry, literature, sports and 

conversations that take you back in time into 

the wealth of the Suba culture. The 2019 

edition is tailored along the theme “The Island 

Remembers” – which gives us a reason to 

reminisce, celebrate, re-imagine and connect 

Rusinga Island to the world through art, culture 

and literature. It will be interesting to see how 

the theme plays out in conversations on tourism, 

culture, identity, art, theatre, film, fashion, 

entrepreneurship, leadership, environment, 

disability, technology, women and youth 

empowerment, health, gender and so on 

throughout the festival. Connect with their page 

on Facebook. 

THE GRAND NAIROBI RACE 

The first ever cycling race within the streets 

of Nairobi will take place on 1st December 

2019. This event will bring together over 1,000 

professional and recreational cyclists to raise 

funds towards planting one million tree seedlings 

in Mt Kenya and Ngong forests. The event 

encourages participation from cyclists through 

corporate teams while serving as an opportunity 

for elite, professional, amateur and recreational 

cyclists within the sport to compete and enjoy this 

sport which has been increasing in popularity. 

This event is poised to become a marquee event 

for both spectators and athletes. Race categories 

include: Elite race, Amateur & MTB Race, Family 

Fun Ride and Corporate Team Race. Register on 

grandnairobibikerace.co.ke 

Image courtesy www.grandnairobirace.co.ke 



December early bird 

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November 15th 2019. 

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EVENTS 

SEGERA RETREAT 

UNVEILS ALL-FEMALE 

ANTI-POACHING UNIT 

Joe Wahome 

Pictures: Joe Wahome, Taran Gehlot 

On 21st September 2019, Segera Retreat 

witnessed a colourful passing-out parade of 

12 ladies from the surrounding communities 

who had been training for the past six 

months to be East and Central Africa’s first 

all-female anti-poaching and conservation 

ranger unit. The women who are all mothers, 

some with little education, form the first unit 

of its kind in this region after the success 

stories of the Black Mambas and Akashinga 

Rangers in Southern Africa. The ceremony 

was graced by, among others, Tourism and 

Wildlife Cabinet Secretary, Najib Balala, the 

founder of Segera and the Zeitz Foundation, 

Jochen Zeitz, and the Segera community. 

CS Balala thanked Jochen Zeitz and 

the Zeitz Foundation for providing financial 

support for the establishment of the unit and 

said it was clear that women can protect the 

environment just as well as men and all that 

they need is support and opportunity. 

“The training of the 12 female 

rangers who we are about to see pass-out 

today is a testament that women can also 

thrive in this male dominated industry,” said 

CS Balala at the occasion. “I challenge other 

conservancies to emulate them so that more 

women are recruited in such academies” 

“Education, women empowerment, 

community engagement and conservation 

are some of the pillars of the Zeitz 

Foundation and Segera. The Ranger 

Initiative and Academy is just one example 

of how we can create employment, 

sustainable income as well as encourage 

women empowerment,” said Mr Zeitz. 

“In communities that have coexisted 

with wildlife for generations, women 

are natural custodians of the environment 

and astute managers of resources due to 

traditional responsibilities of providing for 

their families,” he added. 

The ladies underwent tough 

training in different parts of the country and 

demonstrated some of their acquired skills to 

the audience. These included self-defense, 

intelligence gathering, map reading, 

tracking, communication, mission planning 

and execution, first aid and community 

outreach. 

Virginia Senteiya, one of the 

rangers, said that women should be given 

equal opportunities with men and that the 

unit has proven that conservation is no 

longer a man’s world. She challenged the 

head of security not to send the women 

on joint patrols with their male colleagues 

because both parties are equally well 

trained. 

Damaris Ngini, a mother of two 

who dropped out of school in class two 

thanked the Zeitz Foundation for giving 

her the opportunity in spite of her modest 

education background. 

“I was doing menial jobs around 

the Segera area and had no say in my 

community because it is said that women are 

only good at raising families and tending to 

our livestock. I now have an opportunity to 

give back to society and my kids will have a 

chance at a better life,” Damaris said. 

The confidence the ladies had 

could not go unnoticed from the way they 

presented themselves, spoke, did their drills 

and handled the attention they were getting 

from guests and family members. 

“I saw the interview videos 

way back in April and I can’t believe the 

progression the ladies have made. They 

were unsure, intimidated, some looked 

outright scared but now they are confident, 

can express themselves better and are ready 

to mix it up with the male ranger team due 

to the good training they got,” Jochen Zeitz 

said. 

Their trainer, Shane Sargeant, is 

a former French Foreign Legion Paratrooper, 

British Parachute Regiment, Special Forces 

and 22 SAS member and has been training 

rangers for 30 years. For this intense course 

for the ladies, Shane was reliant on his 

military background but also used yoga 

and meditation which he has himself been 

practising for 18 years. The selection process 

lasted for 10 days and what he was looking 

for was inner strength, self-discipline and an 

ability to learn regardless of the educational 

background. 

A new chapter is slowly being 

written in Laikipia’s conservation effort and 

it is great to see that local women will be 

playing a key and direct role unbridled by 

cultural practices and traditions. 


NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

THE CONCEPT 

OF TIME 

After a visit to Olorgesailie prehistoric site, Samantha du Toit wonders 

how to break the centuries down to young children who still think 

waiting for two ‘sleeps’ for a beloved Auntie to visit seems an age. 

Time is a tricky concept to 

grasp at any age. As an 

adult, imagining hundreds 

of years is hard enough. 

For the children, I have 

noticed that even hours and 

days can be hard to grasp. 

To our four-year-old, waiting for two ‘sleeps’ 

for a beloved Auntie to visit seems an age; to 

our eight-year-old, Christmas seems too far 

away to even bear thinking about and yet 

‘ten more minutes’ in the pool is always too 

short. Questions such as ‘how many days 

is one hundred hours?’ and ‘did Grandpa 

exist one hundred years ago?’ seem to be 

a common line of enquiry at the breakfast 

table. I suppose this is to be expected given 

our recent visit to the Olorgesailie pre-historic 

site. Having driven past so many times 

over the past few years, we decided we 

should take some time to visit the site once 

again and link up with researchers from the 

Smithsonian Institute, whose work we have 

been following as a family for many years. 

Time now takes on a new dimension. 

How to explain to the children that this stone 

tool, or this ancient Oryx-like jaw bone that 

they can see in the excavation trench, is 

around between 350,000 and 500,000 

years old? How many of Grandpa’s lifetimes 

is that? Can we as adults even imagine what 

these very savannahs might have looked 

like at that time, when our human ancestors 

and large mammals roamed across the 

very landscape we are walking on at this 

moment? What would an elephant look like 

that is one and a half times the size of the 

ones we see near camp? How did people 

use these basic stone tools to help them with 

daily chores? 

But then, to learn about the famous fossil 

excavation sites of Laetoli and Olduvai, 

which lie just over the border in Tanzania, 

threw our time scales out the window 

even further. In Laetoli in particular, is the 

fascinating discovery of the first evidence of 

ancient hominids walking on two feet. There 

were three of them, walking Northwards 

together across a muddy ash plain which 

sealed their steps for, wait for it children, 

3.6 million years. There are other footprints 

there too, of over twenty different animals, 

ranging from Guinea-fowl to elephant, pigs 

to rhinoceros. Scientists say the landscape 

of the Rift Valley today does not look so 

different from that time, when ancient beasts 

and the dawn of humanity crossed paths, 

right in this same place we as a family now 

call home. 

As I watch the sun sink behind the Rift 

Valley wall that evening, I can’t help but 

be struck by the idea that the landscape 

around me is not only really and truly the 

cradle of mankind as they say, but a story 

of coexistence between man and beast 

over time. And time in this case I will simply 

categorise as past and present. Our Maasai 

neighbours today coexist with wildlife, many 

of which look similar to species found in the 

fossil records. What the future holds is what 

of course I do not know, but I can only hope 

that the coexistence that has been evident 

for the last 3.6 million years ago will not 

disappear in the next generation. 

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife 

conservationist, working with SORALO, a 

Maasai land trust. She lives with her 

husband, Johann, and their two children at 

Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the 

Shompole Conservancy. 


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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 21 

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BABY ON 

BOARD! 

Anna Wughanga shares her no-holds barred 

account of travelling to Venice, Italy, three 

months postpartum, with a baby in tow 

Despite our 

love for 

travel, a 

high-risk 

pregnancy 

resulted 

in my partner Alex and I 

staying home for most of the 

pregnancy, with the exception 

of a weekend trip to Salzburg 

for a friend's wedding. 

Following the birth and trying 

initial postpartum period, we 

needed a break. My birthday, 

coming up in a few months, 

was the perfect excuse for a 

short trip. Alex began planning 

a surprise. 

You Don't Know Baggage Until 

You Have A Baby! 

When packing, I use the ‘rollem-up’ 

method where you 

simply roll up your clothes 

in your bags as opposed 

to folding them. This helps 

maximise on space and has 

served me wonderfully in the 

past. I was however simply 

not prepared for the amount 

of equipment that comes with 

babies. Prior to birth, I had 

made the decision to avoid 

any unnecessary baby-related 

purchases, but still, the bottles, 

diapers, wipes, breastfeeding 

and changing equipment as 

well as baby clothes were 

overwhelming. 

As I was exclusively 

breastfeeding at the time, 

I opted to leave all bottles 

behind and feed my son on the 

go. This saved a lot of space. 

Additionally, I carried a few 

diapers/wipes and bought 

more in Venice. While I 

was unaware of the final 

destination, I asked Alex 

about the accessibility there. 

Following his response, I 

decided against taking baby 

chairs. Instead, we packed 

two baby carriers, one for 

each of us, and wore our son 

for the duration of the trip. 

After baby-related 

luggage concerns, packing 

was a breeze. Per our 

minimalist lifestyle, we 

packed a few neutral 

bottoms and a change of 

tops and accessories to 

introduce variety. With 

limited time, sleep and both 

mental and luggage space, 

minimalism is a top tip for 

new parents. 

Getting There 

We could either take a twohour 

flight or a seven-hour 

train ride to get to Venice. 

Both options cost a similar 

amount. It may seem like 

a no-brainer to choose the 

flight, but oh baby! 

Our son was barely three 

months old at the time, which 

meant incessant crying. The 

prospect of being stuck in 

the air with a wailing baby 

and judgemental passengers 

was highly unappealing. 

Moreover, pressure changes 

in the cabin can be very 

distressing, even painful, 

for babies. We therefore 


KENYAN TRAVELER 

decided on the OBB train. We booked 

two first-class return tickets (babies travel 

for free). At each border, passport control 

will look at your documents. As a non-EU 

individual (I am Kenyan), be prepared for 

closer scrutiny when traveling in Europe 

given the migrant crisis and right-wing 

populist wave sweeping the continent. You 

either need a Schengen Visa, depending 

on your travel plans, or a residency card to 

move freely within the continent. 

We arrived at the Venice Santa Lucia 

railway station, the Stazione di Venezia 

Santa Lucia. We avoided the additional 

commute from the airport to the island city, 

emerging right into the heart of Venice, with 

beautiful views of the Grand Canal as our 

welcome! 

Our Stay 

We stayed at the Hotel Carlton Capri 

Venice. It is a small boutique sister hotel 

to the Grand Carlton. We decided on 

it because it is cheaper than the Grand 

Carlton with access to the same amenities. 

Additionally, we find that smaller hotels are 

more willing to accommodate any special 

requests or considerations you may have 

when traveling with a baby. 

Lastly, the hotels’ location, next to the 

Grand Canal but dwarfed by the larger 

Grand Carlton, meant it was pretty quiet. 

Since Venice can get pretty loud, this was a 

priority. The room was relatively small but 

this is in line with Venezian standards. It cost 

$500 for a two-night stay in the superior 

rooms, breakfast included. 

Ciao Venezia! 

Romantic, otherworldly and unique are 

just a few words you can use to describe 

Romantic, 

otherworldly and 

unique are just a 

few words you can 

use to describe the 

sinking city on the 

coast of Italy. 

the sinking city on the coast of Italy. Our 

first stop was the Rialto bridge. Tourists 

and locals alike fill the streets, taking in the 

stunning architecture while snacking on the 

decadent gelato that Venice is famous for. 

Afterwards we walked to Piazza San 

Marco, which is the principal public space 

on the island. Here, we took in the winged 

lions atop the Basilica San Marco, transfixed 

by the intricate architecture of the Torre dell’ 

Orologio (clock tower), the Campanile and 

Doge's Palace. As with all things Venice, 

human traffic is immense so be prepared for 

crowds. 

Walking to Rialto Bridge and St Marks 

Square was exhausting. We had pizza for 

dinner then got lost as we tried to find our 

way back. Venice is a labyrinth with small 

alleys, waterways and numerous campi. 

To a couple of sleep-deprived parents 

with a screaming baby, the streets might 

as well have been interchangeable. The 

language barrier meant asking for directions 

was pretty much pointless and when we 

desperately needed it, we had no internet 

connection! We bought a physical map and 

after enough bickering, nervous breakdowns 

and seriously sore feet, we were finally in 

our room. 

The next day we went to see the historic 

Jewish Ghetto which is filled with intriguing 

culture. We had lunch at the boutique Hotel 

Ai Mori D’Oriente which lies along a small 

canal. Here, we had the quintessential 

Venezian meal right next to the water; 

creamy pasta, freshly baked bread, exquisite 

cheese, crisp wine complete with fruits and 

vegetables, under the Italian sun. Prices were 

relatively steep but the meal was worth it. 

Thereafter we walked to the end of the 

Island where we could clearly see that it is 

in fact sinking. We walked into the direction 

of the main square, towards the famed Rialto 

Fish Market which was on my must see-list. 

Taking in the sights and sounds of the historic 

city, we mentally prepared for our departure 

the next morning. 

Additional Tips 

• Wear comfortable shoes. 

• Where possible, breastfeed your child 

on the go. I was babywearing, and 

with the help of a breastfeeding cover, 

I nursed as we walked. 

• Wear your baby. 

• If you are considering traveling to 

Venice with a toddler, be aware 

that there is open water virtually 

everywhere. 

• Buy a physical map. 


GLOBETROTTERS 

BIKER 

GIRL 

Text by Faith Kanja 

Grace Mwari is an off-road motorcycle tour guide at Offroad 

Adventure East Africa. She takes riders for safaris in little known 

places to experience wildlife, culture and the most spectacular 

scenery. She is currently the only female enduro racer in Kenya and 

has been riding for the last five years. Her first ride was the Leh 

Ladakh region in the Himalayas. She has since ridden in South East 

Asia, Southern Africa, East Africa, Morocco and parts of Europe. 

What do you love most about travelling via 

motorcycle? 

I love the freedom that comes with it. Biking 

offers me access to places less travelled and 

is quite affordable and fun. 

How did you get into motorcycles? 

A friend encouraged me to try it out and 

consequently embarked on training me. 

Around that same time, I had housemates 

who were riders and they thought I was 

capable of doing it. I was living and working 

in India and when they invited me on a trip 

to the Himalayas, I did not think twice about 

it. I got hooked after that trip and have been 

riding ever since. 

What have been some of your most 

memorable expeditions so far? 

I did a four month expedition through India, 

Nepal and most of South-East Asia. This 

trip was part of my maiden ride to the 

Himalayas, and it started north of Delhi in a 

place called Manali. We rented our Royal 

Enfields and started the journey riding on 

some of the world’s highest motorable roads 

and mountain passes such as the Khardung 

Later pass. We rode through Leh Ladakh, 

ending the trip on a houseboat in Dal Lake. 

It was physically and mentally demanding. I 

had an accident on the third day when I hit 

a rock and literary flew off the bike, landing 

in a pool of freezing water. A nice Tibetan 

family took care of me. Their Tibetan butter 

tea definitely kept us from freezing. 

My “bike packing” all over South-East 

Asia was also amazing. For most countries, 

I had to enter by air and rent out a bike. 

Food in Laos and Myanmar reminded me 

of home. I also visited Cambodia, Vietnam, 

Thailand, the Philippines and more. I had 

some challenges traveling solo as an African 

woman but I’m glad to have seen beautiful 

places, made new friends and experienced 

different cultures. My Morocco trip marked 

my first ride on desert sand. Jordi Arcarons, 

a Dakar legend, taught us what it takes to 

ride in the biggest dunes of the Sahara. 

While in Europe I enjoyed riding through the 

mountains near Madrid in Miraflores De La 

Sierra. 

What’s it like taking on solo adventures? 

Having company is good but solitude is also 

valuable. In addition to the convenience of 

riding at my own pace, I also get to learn 

how to do motorcycle fixes on my own. Most 

people are genuinely happy and excited 

when they see a woman riding but there 

are also a few occasions during my cross 

country rides when I have met really hostile 

men who felt I shouldn’t be riding. 

Any interesting encounters you’ve had on 

the road? 

I broke my chain when riding at 130km/ 

hr south of Tanzania... It was raining and 

there was no town within a 200km radius. 

Luckily a friend came to my rescue! When I 

took on a solo ride to the northern frontier 

on the Matthews Range, I had an encounter 

with bandits between Wamba and Maralal. 

They took all the cash and water I had then 

let me go. I have also ridden unknowingly 

into a war zone between the Myanmar army 

militias 20km from the Chinese border in the 

Kachin State. 

You are currently the only female enduro 

racer in Kenya...how did you get into it and 

what's that like? 

When I returned home from India, I met Yuri 

and Yuki of Dirt Masters who invited me 

for their weekend off-road rides. I bought 

my first dirt bike and tried out one of their 

enduro race events. Aside from being fun, I 

got to improve my skills during the races. It 

usually feels great when I get ahead of some 

male participants because there is no special 

treatment . 

What are some of your top tips on travelling 

via a motorcycle? 

Carry a map and have a tentative plan for 

checking distances between gas stations. 

Pack light but bring appropriate clothing for 

riding and when you’re off the bike. For offthe-beaten 

path adventures, ride responsibly; 

mind the people and animals that are using 

the same tracks. Bring enough water and 

energy snacks. Be prepared for unexpected 

weather and pack some tools and spare 

parts. 

How has travelling impacted you? 

Travelling has helped me grow mentally, built 

my confidence, helped me make memories 

and appreciate my home country of Kenya 

even more. I have also 

met the nicest and most humble people who 

give meaning to the sense of humanity. I 

have learnt so much from them. 




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LAMU 


SOMETHING 

OLD 

SOMETHING 

NEW 

Lamu has it all: stunning seafront hotels, 

untouched beaches, palm trees, traditional 

dhows, friendly people, exotic birds and 

more. We revisit this Kenyan favourite 

through the iconic Peponi Hotel. 

TEXT: WENDY WATTA 

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI

LAMU 

Back home to roost 

Ever since I first set foot on the pristine shores of Lamu in 2016, it has 

become my favourite place in Kenya. So much so, in fact, that I have 

returned at least twice every year since then. For someone who grew 

up in Kenya, and a keen traveler at that, one might wonder why it 

took so long to visit. While this storied archipelago has long been a 

playground for royals and Hollywood’s elite, particularly in the 80s, 

it hadn’t been marketed much to domestic travelers until recently. 

Most of us didn’t think there was much to see beyond Malindi. Add 

in the steep cost of flights to the island coupled with the rough and 

unsafe roads, and you can see why the average Kenyan traveler 

would never have ventured out. 

Iactually first learned about Lamu via Instagram, which is as 

millennial as it gets. It was a place of many firsts. I went on 

my first ever dhow cruise here, an activity that has become 

a must-do on every subsequent trip. It was here that I first 

dabbled in yoga which I became really good at before 

quitting altogether. 

In lamu I made a lot of friends, which speaks to the kind 

of community here; from store keepers and yoga teachers 

to fishermen and homeowners, and more. Lamu to me is the 

kind of place that you can arrive in as a solo traveler, stay a week 

and leave knowing pretty much everyone in town. 

Another year, I decided to stay for a month at the remote Mike’s 

Camp in Kiwayu, at first to help with digital marketing but soon, 

because there was not much to do, learning how to cook with the 

chef, whipping up cocktails behind the bar and going deep sea 

fishing with some long-staying Swedish guests. I wasn’t very good 

at this gig towards the end and started to crave some semblance 

of civilisation. When I met Isabelle, the French owner of the famed 

Forodhani House, who popped around the camp for lunch and 

invited me to spend a couple of days with her, her husband Anwar 

and some friends at their house in Shella, I happily obliged. That 

very night they threw an epic party complete with traditional 

drummers and a flame thrower, attended by locals and tourists alike. 

I continued to mingle with all sorts of people at the vibrant Peponi 

Hotel, the only place in town which served cocktails at the time; 

excellent ones at that. My annual trips to Lamu have taken me all 

over, from Majlis Hotel to Kizingoni Beach, but while I’ve had many 

a merry social outing at Peponi Hotel, possibly the most iconic place 

to stay in Shella, I had never ventured beyond its bar and restaurant. 

Don’t judge me...if you visit, you would understand why. 

A hotel called Peponi 

The three of us, Brian (Nomad’s photographer), Peter (videographer) 

and myself arrive at Manda Airport and find the boat captain 

from Peponi Hotel waiting. He helps us carry our luggage to his 

boat, we hop on and immediately set off for the hotel. A sense of 

nostalgia washes over me, and this quickly gives way to exhilaration. 

I cannot articulate the kind of joy that being on this island always 

brings me. As we advance upon the Swahili-meets-southern-Europe 

whitewashed seafront buildings of Shella, I spot some all-too-familiar 

places. We get off at a jetty, navigate some narrow alleyways above 

which bright red bougainvillea flowers bloom, and before I know it, I 

am having a complementary old pal cocktail served to me at Peponi. 

As far as check in counters go, this is pretty darn sweet; we’re taken 

through the usual stuff while sitting on a balcony looking out onto a 

sea dotted with boats and dhows, a stark contrast from the gloomy 

traffic of Nairobi only some two hours earlier. 

The boys get a two-bedroom apartment next to the 

pool. I am shown up to my own room, accessed via 

a staircase next to the kitchen area, a well-positioned 

casual-chic rooftop pad which sits right above the 

restaurant and comes with an impressive spacious 

balcony outfitted with two sunbathers, a swinging 

daybed and a pair of comfortable Swahili ‘proud 

chairs’, all looking out onto the sea. Every morning I 

wake up to catch the sunrise from this balcony. The 

views here could help a journo get through writer’s 

block, a singer compose their best work, and the 

works, and I’m not just being dramatic. Windows 

directly in front of the double bed also open out onto 

the sea, and through this opening, trade winds do 

the cooling. On another side, the window opens out 

to the garden, a rainbow of colours with white, red 

and orange flowers, towering green palm trees, boats 

bobbing on the water with the dance of the waves, 

the bird or two that flutter past every so often, and 

different shades of blue from the sky and the sea. In 

the evenings, this place comes alive as people from 

around Shella gather to mingle and drink, and I always find myself 

torn between being a silent merry observer or going downstairs 

to join in the fun. When I do join, I meet an Ethiopian couple, a 

Ghanaian writer, a local dhow captain, a Google Exec...all sorts, I 

tell you. I get a door key for my room, which I don’t even use for the 

duration of our stay. 

I meet Carol Korschen who currently runs the hotel at breakfast 

the next morning. I am tucking into a cheese omelette with toast 

and fresh passion juice while checking something on my phone 

when she appears, takes the phone from my hand and instructs me 

to take a moment to enjoy the meal and the view. Neither is lost on 

me. She is very hands on, and I often see her bustling through the 

restaurant, chatting up guests, exchanging a smile here and giving 

a recommendation there. After breakfast I ask her about the black 

canon facing the water out in the garden, one of several along the 

main wall of this hotel, the kind you’re likely to see at Fort Jesus. She 

tells me that the main house was built in the 30s as a fort to protect 

Lamu town. Shella village itself was actually in the present-day 

Takwa Ruins. There were a lot of territorial battles in the coast. 

“My parents-in-law had their farm in Rumuruti compulsorypurchased 

from them in 1966 and had gone to Malindi to have a 

last holiday before leaving the country,” she says. “There they learnt 

about this amazing house in Lamu that would make an amazing 

hotel. They flew here for a day, and three days later, they owned it.” 

Peponi opened on 20th March 1967 with four rooms, one of 

which now serves as the hotel shop. When her father-in-law later 

passed away, Carol’s husband Lars took over the management of 

the hotel and gradually started purchasing surrounding property to 

expand, and when he later married Carol, they would organically 

continue to expand to 28 rooms, all with sea views and unique 

layouts, as well as a pool which is only open to hotel guests. 

With Lars passing away in 2014, Carol has continued to run this 

fashionable hotel. Her two daughters can sometimes be seen doing 

the rounds whenever they are in Lamu. She credits a particular safari 

company for putting Lamu on the international map in the 70s and 

80s, and while it is whispered that several renowned celebrities have 

stayed at Peponi through the years, she is tight lipped about their 

names. 


The views here 

could help a 

journo get through 

writer’s block, a 

singer compose 

their best work, 

and the works, and 

I’m not just being 

dramatic. 



LAMU 

Personalised service is one of the key attractions at Peponi with 

some guests having been returning for years, and this is evident in 

the restaurant which serves up an eclectic mix of seafood, pasta, 

meat and Swahili dishes. Even vegans are considered. Our dinners 

are often three or four courses of delicious concoctions in handsome 

portions. My favourite is the Swahili dinner, an experience in itself. 

We’re served at a private section of the restaurant with traditional 

Swahili-style seating in form of big red pillows on the floor, with a 

large sinia (tray) on the table as the centerpiece. Dining in this culture 

is often very communal. Then, out flows an array of food; pojo 

(green grams in coconut milk), mbaazi (pigeon peas in coconut milk), 

chapati, chicken and fish curries and kachumbari, and by the time 

we are done, we would have all moved to Lamu in an instant had 

someone asked. 

The next day we decide to explore. “People always say there isn’t 

much to do in Lamu, but I can keep you very busy,” says Carol, as 

she takes out a pen and draws us an itinerary based on our interests. 

By the time she’s done, I have no doubt. (www.peponihotel.com) 

Turtle hatching 

We take a speedboat through the mangroves and dock at the base 

of a gigantic sand dune. A ten minute walk leads us through a glade 

of shrubs past an old well where cattle still come to graze, and a 

simple Oromo homestead where some kids are playing a game of 

sticks and stones in the evening shade. Our group then walks out 

to a completely deserted golden stretch of beach begging for a 

barefoot excursion, with water too angry for even the most daring of 

swimmers. Another time, perhaps, as we’re here to see endangered 

green turtles hatching. This initiative to improve their chances of 

survival is by the Lamu Marine Conservation Trust, supported by the 

Tusk Trust. 

Sea turtles are such fascinating creatures as they will leave the 

water and come to the beach to lay eggs in the same spot where 

they were hatched. Wearing gloves, the guide begins to dig out the 

sand covering the nest, and shortly after, black, tiny turtles scurry out 

of the hole and start to flap their little flippers in the direction of the 

sea, as though they can instinctively smell the water. After surviving 

natural predators like crabs, this is often a race to outrun birds 

and other hunters. After about three decades, the females of this 

generation will return to this very beach in Lamu to lay their eggs. 

The birds that look like flowers in a tree 

On our way back from watching the turtles, we hear the call of 

carmine bee-eaters and follow the sound to a mangrove with the old 

town in the background. When these little birds perch on the stems of 

the mangrove’s leaves, they look like bright flame-red flowers in full 

bloom, and might even pass for fruits. Their song is interrupted only 

by the nearby Floating Bar which is playing a familiar hip hop tune. 

The birds, said to “go to work during the day” and return to roost in 

the evening much like humans, however seem unperturbed by Jay Z. 

With the sun now setting behind the old town like an orange stroke 

of paint added to an already perfect painting, even those not often 

won over by birds and sunsets would admit that this is indeed a 

beautiful sight. 

Fun fact: When hunting bees, these birds will return to their perch 

and smash the insects into the branch, rubbing the abdomen to 

remove the venomous stinger before eating it. Just like the wildebeest 

migration in the Mara, they also follow the same annual migration 

route and keen birders often go to Botswana and other parts of 

southern Africa just to see them. 

Sunset dhow cruise 

This will simply never get old. A fleet of about seven boats gently 

gliding along. Breeze brushing against your skin. An old white 

sailing canvas unravelled somewhere mid-water to show the dhowowner’s 

art. Ours shows a young boy kicking along a football, 

and Peter, a passionate fan of the sport, is visibly pleased. The 

canvas on the dhow across from us simply asks, “Will you marry 

me?” You cruise along the sea, sipping a glass of merlot and being 

momentarily lulled out of your worries by soothing Taarab music, or 

whatever you can master on your Bluetooth speaker. You lie back on 

the pillows and look up at the sky as it changes from the most vibrant 

of orange to a pitch black, and suddenly it is time to get off the boat 

at the Shella jetty. 


LAMU 

WHERE WE ATE 

Diamond Beach Village 

This castaway-chic property has affordable to mid-range 

accommodation, with plenty of lounging areas and hammocks. 

The prices are a big draw for backpacker types, and they are 

known for their variety of delicious pizzas from a wood-fired 

oven, movie nights every Friday and the occasional full moon 

party. They are moving away from frying food so expect dishes 

like the very healthy baked vegetables with fresh red snapper fillet 

and blanched spinach. www.diamondbeachvillage.com 

Kijani Hotel Lamu 

Kijani, meaning 'green' in Swahili is as a tropical oasis of 

indigenous plants and trees, nestled among swaying palms and 

makuti roofs. Family-owned, it came highly recommended for 

lunch, and Trisala who currently runs it with her boyfriend has 

done a fantastic job of revamping the menu with the chef. The 

spacious open-air restaurant overlooks the beach and on hot 

afternoons, the breeze here provides relief. The menu is very 

eclectic and covers various types of cuisine, with the seafood and 

pastas being a must-have. For dessert, you must try the moltenlava 

chocolate cake which takes a while but is absolutely worth 

the wait. www.kijani-lamu.com 

Get to know: Maskani Youth Initiative 

We head off on a walking tour of Shela, teaming up with Maskani 

Youth Initiative on the invitation of their passionate and animated 

founder, Hakim. If you’d like to get a glimpse of Lamu beyond 

the incredible seafront houses and the golden beach, this is 

recommended. Maskani translates to a shared hang-out space. 

The company has a Dada Swahili Cafe where people come in 

to eat but often end up staying to chat about the projects the 

company is involved in. I have come to find that the difference in 

the price of a piece of art in Shella sometimes just lies in the shop 

in which it is sold and not necessarily the talent, and Maskani is 

keen to give more local artists a chance to fetch fair prices for 

their work. There is an office space, a library that welcomes book 

donations, and more. They are involved in so many projects, 

including an anti-jigger campaign that has already done tangible 

work in the past year alone, and a beach clean up initiative that’s 

keen to keep Lamu kempt. 


M B H . C O . K E 

info@mbh.co.ke 

+ 

NOMAD MAGAZINE 

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2019 35 

CALL/TEXT/WHATSAPP

OLD 

TOWN 

ROAD 

While staying at Subira House in Lamu Old 

Town, Wendy Watta delves into traditional 

Swahili architecture and, faced with a 

slowly evolving island, muses that some 

places should perhaps be left untouched. 

PHOTOGRAPHS BRIAN SIAMBI

LAMU 


LAMU 

AUNESCO World Heritage 

Site and the oldest 

continually inhabited 

town along the Kenyan 

coast, Lamu Old Town 

has retained its authentic 

Arabic architectural fabric 

as well as its social and 

cultural mores, making 

for a rich and authentic 

getaway. Women whisper by along the 

narrow alleyways in bui bui while men in 

simple kofia usher along donkeys (aka the 

local Ferrari) laden with everything from 

heaps of maize flour packets to construction 

bricks, as stray cats slink nonchalantly 

through the labyrinthine maze of streets. 

Following the stories I heard about the black 

cats in Mombasa as a child, how people 

in Lamu don’t recoil in terror when they see 

these cats is beyond me. 

This time we’re staying at Subira House 

which stands right behind Lamu Fort and 

is a key examples of Omani architecture 

of eras past. There are a few key structural 

differences with surrounding Swahili houses, 

including higher ceilings for self ventilation, 

the absence of zidaka niches and a more 

grandiose air about the space. The house 

is owned by Paul and Christina Aarts, a 

Dutch and Swede respectively who first met 

and fell in love in this very town. They then 

bought, renovated and ran an abandoned 

hotel in rural Sweden for almost 10 years, 

before later returning to Lamu to show their 

two children where they met. They had no 

plans to stay. An architect showed them 

Subira House whose owner was living in 

Oman at the time but was slated to visit 

soon. A meeting was set and in two weeks, 

they had an agreement, initially intending 

for the house to be a vacation home. In fact, 

they went back and continued running their 

hotel in Sweden for years after that. 

The house has been a passion project 

for this now elderly couple. They started 

restoring it, buying a lot of antiques and 

second hand items from local shops, finally 

deciding to make the move to the island 

in 2008. They have since extended the 

building which now has seven rooms spread 

across three spacious floors. It is a peaceful 

green heaven with plenty of potted plants 

in the open courtyard next to the ground 

floor dining area where we share all our 

meals with the owners as they regale us with 

stories of their time traveling in India. The 

food here is incredible and the restaurant 

has been known to draw people staying 

in other parts of the town, made even 

more so by the fact that the pair are into 

permaculture and have an organic farm 

where they grow a lot of the food whipped 

up by the chef. 

They say that the house was initially built 

as a palace of sorts for an Omani Liwali 

who was posted to the island by the Sultan 

of Zanzibar. He actually wanted to marry 

a girl from a rich family but wasn’t allowed 

to initially because his nobility wasn’t good 

enough for them. He eventually got the girl. 

At the entrance of the house is a dome. 

To the right sits a 12m long room called a 

sebule, with six windows to the street and 

with six arches. This is where he would 

receive people coming to see him about 

their issues. There is a long baraza outside 

which is where they would sit as they waited 

their turn. Being eco-certified, the house 

itself doesn’t use any water closets and the 

loos at therefore dry/recyclable. All toilets in 

lamu have no drainage given the age of the 

houses. I am curious to find out more about 

architecture in this town, so Paul hires one of 

his go-to guides to show us around. 

Being a muslim town, the best time to go 

on a walking tour is in the morning as the 

town generally comes to a close at 12:30pm. 

We kick off at the waterfront mosque, Msikiti 

wa Pwani, said to be almost 900 years old. 

It gets its name from a high wall which would 

keep away the water during high tide. The 

shoreline has since receded. The alleyways 

are narrow because when they houses were 

constructed, no one fathomed that there 

would one day be cars. In between the art 

galleries and stores like Natural Lamu (where 

I buy natural soaps and spices), it is the 

architecture of the houses and set up of the 

town that I find most fascinating. 

Stone houses made in the 18th and 17th 

century are still intact. Some are made from 

dead coral and plastered with limestone. 

Most houses have wells for fresh water. 

Neighbours would join their higher balconies 

so they could visit each other without having 

to go downstairs, and for us, these “roofs” 

provide respite from the heat. 

Each house has a front porch raised a 

little above the street level and lined with 

barazas where people could hang out 

with the house owner before going about 

their day. An intricately carved wooden 

door (there’s a woodwork section in town, 

in case you’re keen to see how they are 

made) opens to an inner porch overlooking 

a courtyard, if the family has space. For 

ventilation, parallel galleries regulate the 

breeze. There is no modern-day drainage 

system so bath water runs through narrow 

channels constructed into the side of each 

house, depositing into the sea. Some houses 

have a birika, a bath which is filled with 

water and looks like a little pond, complete 

with tiny fish said to ward off mosquitoes 

and keep the bath clean. Zidaka niches are 

outfitted with decorative porcelain plates 

and metallic incense holders. It is such a 

stark difference from Nairobi. 

Our guide gets us some labaneer, a 

really sweet candy made with milk, sugar 

and cardamom, and as I tear off a piece 

out on the street, I can’t help but think about 

how much Lamu is changing (or how this 

sweet could give me diabetes). This thought 

continues to run through my mind when, 

back on the balcony of my room at Subira 

House, a delightful chorus of evening birds 

is interrupted by rap music blaring from a 

boda boda in the alleyway below. These 

motorbikes that whizz past on the narrow 

streets, jostling for space with pedestrians, so 

out of place in this ancient backdrop. 

In a fast changing world where 

everything is moving towards modern 

technology and big hotels, perhaps we 

should leave Lamu untouched. It is a pearl 

to be polished and looked after, as it is 

its innocence that still continues to attract 

visitors in a shoreline with so many other 

splendid beaches. 

I want to enjoy its present state while I 

still can. And so I sit on the rooftop of Subira 

House tucking into freshly baked bread with 

a delicious homemade jam whose recipe I’ve 

already slipped into my pocket, taking in the 

surrounding sea of houses and listening to 

the innocent song of nursery-age kids singing 

their ABC’s in a nearby class. 


IN A FAST CHANGING WORLD WHERE 

EVERYTHING IS MOVING TOWARDS 

MODERN TECHNOLOGY AND BIG 

HOTELS, PERHAPS WE SHOULD LEAVE 

LAMU UNTOUCHED. IT IS A PEARL TO BE 

POLISHED AND LOOKED AFTER, AS IT IS ITS 

INNOCENCE THAT STILL CONTINUES TO 

ATTRACT VISITORS IN A SHORELINE WITH 

SO MANY OTHER SPLENDID BEACHES. 


PLACES TO STAY 

WHERE 

TO STAY 

LAMU 

Photography: Brian Siambi and Respective Properties 

KILIMAWINGU HOUSE 

A Parisian couple fell in love with Lamu in 

the late 90s and bought this exceptionally 

charming house which was then converted 

into a private holiday home. The almosttriangular 

pool is set in a lush green garden 

dotted with vibrant bougainvillea flowers. 

Renovations have since been made to make 

the house very child-friendly with guarded 

staircases, balconies and a wood-fenced 

pool. It can accommodate up to 16 guests in 

eight characterful double/ twin rooms spread 

across several floors, with numerous stylish 

lounging areas. Their kitchen makes the best 

shortbread cake in the area. Book via 

www.eastafricanretreats.com 

MNARANI HOUSE, SHELA 

‘Mnarani’ means ‘near the minaret’ in 

Swahili and this house stands next to Shela’s 

historic Friday Mosque, around 75 metres 

from the beach. It was renovated in 2014, 

one of the new additions being a lovely 

courtyard pool. Expect walls of intricate 

zidaka niches, decorative plaster friezes and 

traditional painted hardwood roof beams. 

On the ground floor is the kitchen and bar 

area while the first and second floors have 

the four ensuite double bedrooms. Rooms 

are beautifully decorated and furnished in 

traditional style, including original antique 

Swahili doors and windows brought from 

Pate Island. www.lamuislandproperty.com 

MAMA DAKTARI HOUSE 

This is where the ‘Flying Doctor’ Anne 

Spoerry resided from the late 1960s in 

between her medical expeditions.The house 

has two suites and is connected to Betty’s 

Suite (double room, set on the rooftop, with 

an impressive private infinity pool) and 

Garden House (recently renovated, has two 

ensuite double rooms and has front row sea 

views). It’s master bedroom is the highest 

point of the property with an outstanding 

view of the channel. The property also hosts 

Kiwandani House which has a pool that 

guests to Mama Daktari may have access to. 

www.themoonhouses.com 


THE BEACH HOUSE 

This magnificent private home sits in a commanding position 

above Shela beach and offers wonderful ocean views making 

for the perfect retreat for 12-14 guests. On the first floor, raised 

up above beach level, is a stunning infinity pool – it has a bar 

area and low comfortable baraza seating and sunbeds. Up the 

first flight of stairs is a large dining and living room. Another 

door leads onto the wooden deck above the pool – a perfect 

dining area – and to two double bedrooms with their own 

private sea-view terraces. www.eastafricanretreats.com 

MSAFINI HOTEL 

Built in 2007, Msafini is owned and run by a 

local family who have been living in Lamu for 

several generations. The limestone, five-storey 

structure combines modern architecture and 

traditional Swahili design for an authentic yet 

comfortable stay. Mango Rooftop Restaurant 

boasts views of the entire village, the sand 

dunes, Manda Island and the sea. Enjoy 

made-to-order breakfasts, lunch or dinner on 

top of possibly the tallest building in Shela. 

The rooftop is breezy and serene, and the 

food is delicious. The hotel can easily take 

groups and conferences. 

www.msafinihotel.co.ke 

LAMU HOUSE 

On the edge of Lamu town, this stylish hotel 

offers quiet seclusion away from the fray. 

The entrance opens up into a charming 

open courtyard, several swimming pools 

and petal-bedecked seating. Some rooms 

overlook the seafront, giving a quite different 

perspective on a Lamu sunrise. All the rooms 

are different, each with its own character and 

a private terrace.The restaurant overlooks 

the sea and serves international cuisine. The 

apartment building is minutes away through 

the narrow streets of town. There are nine 

apartments with magnificent views, suited 

with all the comforts of a modern facility. 

www.lamuhouse.com 


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Season Guide 

 

 

 


GABON: LONG ROAD 

TO LOPÉ NATIONAL 

PARK 

Gabon is a country of impenetrable rainforests, wild 

coastlines teeming with marine life and home to some 

of the most elusive species on the continent. It is Africa’s 

Eden. Maurice Schutgens heads out in search of elephants 

in one of Gabon’s most spectacular wildernesses. 


DISPATCH 

For reasons I 

still do not know, 

Patrice decided 

this was the perfect 

moment to practice 

his elephant 

trumpeting skills. 

The elephants 

didn’t hesitate and 

charged. 

I 

have dreamt of visiting Gabon 

for decades, but somehow it has 

always been just out of reach. No 

longer. As the plane started its 

descent into Léon-Mba International 

Airport the vast Congo Basin came 

into view. Broccoli as far as the eye 

could see. Simply mesmerising. 

Libreville, French for “Freetown”, is 

Gabon’s unassuming capital city of about a 

million souls. Situated directly on the shores of 

the Atlantic Ocean in the protected Estuaire 

of Gabon, it exudes a supremely relaxed 

vibe. One that just happens to be extremely 

appropriate for the stifling equatorial 

humidity. We headed straight for the refuge of 

La Tropicana, a simple hotel with dark wood 

paneled rooms situated on a picturesque 

stretch of beach in the middle of Libreville 

that has become a favourite amongst expats 

visiting the country. 

With only a day in the city, we were 

excited to be immersed into what Libreville 

had to offer. We navigated our way through 

the manic traffic on the oceanfront boulevard, 

swinging past the extravagant yet imposing 

golden glass Palais Presidentiel, built by the 

late President Bongo in the 1970s. Sadly, 

visitors are not allowed inside and any 

attempts at photography would also be 

considered a major faux pas. We quickly 

moved on to marvel at the architectural 

wonders of the Ministry of Mines and Petrol 

building which is positively futuristic. As 

evening fell we strolled along the beach 

to La Voile Rouge, one of the most popular 

restaurants serving mouth-watering dishes with 

a French flair best consumed in the warm sea 

breeze. 

Next morning, after a Parisian breakfast of 

Pain au Chocolates, croissants and excellent 

French coffee at Chez Paul situated on 

Boulevard Quaben, we departed Libreville 

heading for one of Gabon’s premier national 

parks: La Lopé, a Unesco World Heritage 

Site. While a six hour stint aboard the famous 

Trans Gabon Railway is the easiest way to 

make it to Lopé, the night-time departures 

from Libreville’s Owendo Station mean that 

you miss the opportunity to appreciate the 

stunning scenery through which you travel. 

Instead we opted for a sturdy landcruiser. 

As a result we quickly became intimately 

acquainted with the affectionately known 

Gabonese massage. 

The road out of Libreville deteriorated with 

an insatiable appetite as massive potholes 

erupted all around us. Despite slowing to a 

crawl, our bodies were still regularly flung 

through the cabin. It didn't matter, however, 

as I stared out of the window at the tunnel of 

vivid and vibrant greens. 

After about four hours we pulled into the 

town of Ndjolé, situated on the banks of the 

Ogooué river, the fourth largest in Africa. 

Ndjolé was never going to win any aesthetic 

awards but there was still a special reason for 

interrupting our journey east: lunch. Down by 

the river there was an open-air kitchen of sorts 

with individual stoves, each presided over by 

a chef. It was a hectic affair. The moment we 

arrived we were pounced upon with offers 

from deliciously slow cooked meats to oily 

potato chips and deep fried bananas, each 

served with a smile. 

As our journey continued eastwards, 

somewhere along the way we passed the 

village of Junkville (pronounced Chengué-ville). 

An up and coming metropolis it was not - take 

my word for it. We plunged ever deeper on 

worsening roads, the rain making a muddy 

mess ahead of us. Yet, somehow the lowhanging 

fog made it a hauntingly beautiful 

experience. 

By mid-afternoon we were settled into 

some simple cottages situated just outside of 

Lopé village. Suddenly Patrice, the caretaker, 

came to fetch us. He had spotted a couple of 

forest elephants tucked away just beyond the 

clearing. This was too good an opportunity 

to miss! We followed enthusiastically, albeit 

cautiously. He beckoned us closer until we 

were no more than 15m from them. There they 

stood, three of them - completely unaware of 

our presence, feeding peacefully. 

For reasons I still do not know, Patrice 

decided this was the perfect moment to 

practice his elephant trumpeting skills. The 

elephants didn’t hesitate and charged. We 

turned and ran, slipping and sliding through 

the mud, the animals hot on our heels. From 

the safety of the cottages we watched the 

elephant signalling its displeasure one final 

time at the edge of the clearing before slinking 

away into the darkness. Patrice was in stitches 

of laughter on the ground. 

Come sunset we headed into Lopé 

National Park with the conservateur, in search 

of elephants, gorillas and whatever else this 

magical place had to offer. It was the golden 

hour. The undulating savannahs, framed by 

the Ogooué River, turned a vibrant shade of 

yellow. The gravel crunched happily under our 

tyres. It was one of those Ernest Hemmingway 

moments. We headed deeper into the park, 

dropping down into dense forested patches in 

the valleys. We stopped the car and listened 

and looked with bated breath but the elusive 

gorillas were nowhere to be seen. All I wanted 

was a fleeting glimpse of one of the estimated 

25,000 gorillas, but it was not to be. As we 

emerged out onto another patch of savannah, 

the sky was turning a deep shade of purple, 

tall trees of an ancient primary forest creating 

silhouettes on the horizon. 

Suddenly out of nowhere, a sound erupted 

from the tall grass to our left. It was two forest 

elephants. They had been spooked by our 

sudden appearance. The elephants and I 

stared at each other, one of them lazily lifting 

its trunk to taste the air. Then just as quickly as 

they had appeared they disappeared into the 

undergrowth. As the night closed in around us, 

I promised myself I would return to see what 

else Gabon had to offer. 


Weekend away 

FROM 

DAR 

Kilwa 

Declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 

1981, Kilwa was one of the most important trading 

sites on the Indian Ocean during the 11th to 16th 

centuries. Located on the southeastern coast of 

Tanzania, it may not be a widely popular spot with 

tourists but it is its history that is one of the most 

interesting things about it. The town is divided into 

Kilwa Kivinje, Kilwa Masoko and Kilwa Kisiwani. 

Kilwa Masoko is the most developed town and the 

regional hub whilst Kilwa Kivinje and Kilwa Kisiwani 

have spectacular historical attractions. Kilwa Kisiwani 

is reached by dhow and has an amazingly well 

preserved collection of ruins. The most striking sight is 

the old Omani Fort, which is built on the foundations 

of an old Portuguese fort. The Big Mosque dates from 

the 12th Century and was once the largest mosque 

in East Africa. Stay at Slow Leopard Hostels which is 

perfect for bigger groups and backpackers. 

Chemka Maji Moto 

Also known as Kikuletwa Hot Springs, 

This little oasis is deservedly famous 

and a must-visit spot off the main road 

between Moshi and Arusha. The place is 

a relaxing paradise with clear turquoise 

water and lush green surroundings. It’s a 

bit of a rough journey to get there from 

Moshi, but it’s definitely a memorable 

experience that’s well worth the trip. 

Entry fee is about Ksh 1,000 for non- 

Tanzanians. 

Tanzanian Photographer Osse 

Grecca Sinare shares stunning 

photos from his favourite spots and 

hotels ideal for a quick weekend 

jaunt away from Dar es Salaam. 

Gran Melia Arusha 

Peace, balance and tranquility are some of the words 

you can use to describe the feeling you get while 

visiting Gran Melia. I found this place so special 

because the property’s main source of water is the 

river which flows through it, and the view from the 

hotel is also unmatched as it overlooks the second 

tallest mountain in Tanzania, Mount Meru. There is 

so much more to this place than meets the eye. An 

oasis within Arusha set out on 18 acres of beautiful 

landscaped coffee and tea plantations, the attention 

to detail in this stunning hotel is impressive. 


WEEKEND AWAY 

Matema Lake Shore Resort 

If you love chocolate, Matema in southwest 

Tanzania is the place to visit. Surrounded by 

cocoa plantations, it is located in the Mbeya 

region in a striking area right by Lake Nyasa 

(Lake Malawi). The road leading to the 

resort reminded me of Hawaii because of 

its lush green mountains, and the property 

is set right on the edge of the lake making 

for the utmost tranquility. Boating and other 

activities out on the water are also available. 

Firefly Bagamoyo 

While Bagamoyo is a well known destination for 

travellers, one of its most visited places would have 

to be Firefly. This spot, a camp and lodge set in a 

beautifully restored historic building, is both unique 

and serene. If a fun weekend filled with food, 

drinks, the occasional live music events, swimming 

and lounging in the sun sounds like an appealing 

getaway for you then this is the place to be. There 

are rooms and tents for those keen on a camping 

experience, while the staff will impress upon you 

their passion for the environment. Bagamoyo is an 

hour away from Dar es Salaam and is therefore an 

ideal location to drive out to for a relaxing weekend 

away from the city and be back at your desk on 

Monday morning. 

Kilimanjaro Golf and Wildlife Estate 

The avid golfers will be more than pleased. The golf 

course here, which faces Mt Meru and Kilimanjaro, is the 

first 18-hole championship golf course in Tanzania and is 

up to par with the most demanding international guidelines. 

It was designed by former Irish National Coach and Kenya 

Open Champion David Jones. Surrounded by astonishing 

natural beauty and spectacular views, it is a one of its kind 

experience with dramatic backdrops, challenging holes, 

fairways meandering through ponds and streams and all 

the comfort and service imaginable on offer. Step outside 

of your villa, meet up with your personal caddy and tee off 

to start an unforgettable experience 


COTTAR’S 

CELEBRATES 100 

YEARS IN KENYA 

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS WENDY WATTA 

Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp and 

bush villa: as the family celebrates 

a milestone, we look back at their 

history in Kenya. 


SPOTLIGHT 

F 

rom the moment I picked 

up a book offered for 

entertainment in one of 

the tents at Cottar’s 1920s 

Safari Camp, I get through 

the entire thing in one 

sitting as it makes for quite 

the captivating read. The 

beginning chapters chronicle the life of 

Charles Cottar, the writer’s (Calvin Cottar) 

great grandfather, described as a rebel 

often in search of the unregulated freedom 

afforded by wide open spaces, who, bored 

by the already won Wild West, was inspired 

to come to Kenya after reading Theodore 

Roosevelt’s book on his safari across Africa. 

Kenya turned out to be exactly what his 

restless soul yearned for. The early 1900s 

were a different time with a different set of 

regulations that would probably make a 

modern day conservationist recoil, but back 

then, wildlife hunting was legal, socially 

accepted and big business. Hunting, just 

like he did back in Oklahoma, Charles 

would set up Cottar Safari Services in 1919, 

specialising in filming, big game hunting and 

animal capture for circuses overseas. 

Chatting about filming safaris with Calvin 

Cottar, Charles’ great grandson who set 

up Cottar’s 1920 Safari Camp in the mid 

90s with his wife Louise, he explains that 

the earliest filming safaris were nothing 

like today. Animals were known to hide 

in the bushes. A photographer would 

therefore set up his equipment a little far 

off from the bush, and when he was ready, 

his counterparts would scare the animals 

and they would go charging towards the 

photographer who would get his pictures, 

fingers-crossed that he didn’t get trampled 

in the process. I see an old black and white 

advert; Big Game Hunting in Africa and 

Asia with Cottar Service. In it, a man on 

a horse, a pack of dogs charging in front 

of him, pursuing a leopard leaping over a 

bush close to the camera. Pictures of Charles 

show a man mauled by a leopard, later 

being killed by a charging rhino that he was 

trying to film in 1940. 

With the onset of wildlife conservation 

and management laws, the landscape 

has drastically changed. Calvin explains 

that when they set up in the mid-90s, there 

was a lot of poaching and insecurity in the 

Maasai Mara, and it was hard to ascertain 

that the money that was flowing in through 

tourism was actually doing good. At the 

time, he was a guide working with KWS 

(Kenya Wildlife Service) which resulted in a 

lot of thinking about Kenya, its people and 

its lands. One of his tasks was to develop 

forums where landowners and communities 

had a voice in wildlife conservation policy. 

We have an interesting chat about the place 

of big game hunting in securing lands today, 

a story I am keen to follow up on. 

Set in Ol Derkesi Community 

Conservancy, Maasai Mara, the classically 

elegant ambiance in the tents draws 

inspiration from ‘old Africa’, with the tents 

being outfitted with colonial antiques, pops 

of colour coming from the bedding or cotton 

dhurries. The staff, most coming from the 

local community, have been with the family 

for decades. We stay at the five bedroom 

bush villa which has plenty of comfortable 

lounging areas and terraces, boasting 

unobstructed views of the surrounding 

savannah, best taken in from a hammock set 

on a ground floor lounging area. 

Perks include a staff of eight at your 

disposal, a private chef, a 25-metre private 

swimming pool, a dedicated game vehicle 

and guide (some of the best guides I have 

ever encountered on the numerous game 

drives I have been on) and WiFi. As I was 

there for the first-time unveiling and tasting 

of the Louis XIII Cognac in Kenya, we 

had a round of befitting sundowners and 

magical dinners out in the bush. I am also 

quite certain that I got married to a Maasai 

warrior during a dance I got swept up in at 

around 10:00pm around a bonfire. If all else 

fails, I will be returning to Cottar’s to find 

him. 

www.cottars.com 


WHAT I PACK 

Lucia Musau is a luxury PR consultant and an award winning fashion 

and lifestyle blogger. She shares some of her travel essentials. 

A BOOK 

I carry a different book on each trip and like having hard copies, 

although I’m currently reading an e-book called ‘Contagious: Why Things 

Catch On” by Jonah Berger. 

CANON G7X MARK II 

I use this to take videos and photos of my family whenever we travel, 

not necessarily to share on social media but to for instance share those 

memories with my son when he’s older. 

IPHONE X AND A TECNO PHONE 

These are great for capturing content I would like to share instantly to my 

social media pages. I carry a second phone for backup. 

LIP GLOSSES 

Lately, I’ve really been loving the Fenty Gloss Bomb and Clarins’ lip oil. 

DOLCE & GABBANA SUNGLASSES 

I’m always wearing sunglasses whenever I travel. This pair is big, wide 

and super stylish. 

PERFUME 

I carry at least two on a trip. I’m currently loving the Tom Ford Rive 

d’Ambre. If it was a drink, it would be a limited edition. There’s also 

Chanel No. 5 which is an all-time classic. 

SUNSCREEN 

Protecting the skin is essential, and the Clinique SPF 50 sunscreen works 

well with my skin. 

WATCH 

I wear one, always, even if I happen to be in a different time zone. I have 

a classic Daniel Wellington watch and the more fancy Cartier which I 

really love. 

KENYAN FLAG BRACELET 

This is always such an ice breaker whenever I’m traveling in a different 

country. A fellow Kenyan might spot it and we can always strike up a 

conversation about home. 


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LAST WORD 

E 

arlier this year, my partner 

and I were scheduled to 

vacation in a tiny resort 

town on South East 

Europe’s Adriatic coast, 

so with just 14 days to my 

intended departure date, 

I gathered my duly filled visa application, 

supporting documents and frequent traveller 

bravado and went to the supporting 

embassy for submission. 

The office, a lean operation that felt 

more like visiting a family friend than an 

outpost for a foreign power was warm 

and welcoming. While there, I was lucky 

to meet the highest-ranking officials of the 

mission whose affability put me immediately 

at ease. After some light banter, rubberstamping 

and promises of “there shouldn’t 

be a problem” my file was accepted. That 

evening, I went straight home and confirmed 

with full payment, all the provisional 

bookings I had made. These included 

return tickets and my contribution for the 

accommodation costs. Such sweet folk these 

South East Europeans, they’d even agreed 

to retain a scan of my passport rather than 

the physical document itself as I was due for 

work travel that same week. There shouldn’t 

be a problem they said. 

With anticipation for my trip building 

up, I started to make frequent calls to the 

EXPENSIVE 

LESSONS 

By Karanja Nzisa 

Embassy to track my application and when 

the responses from the lovely phone operator 

didn’t suffice, I used the personal numbers 

of my senior official friends which I had 

been able to source through my very reliable 

networks. Introducing myself to them, all 

protocols observed and whatnot, it became 

clear that what I always thought was a 

memorable presence I possessed wasn’t 

quite so as neither of them could remember 

me from our encounter less than two weeks 

before. There’s no telling you what a thing 

like that does to a man’s ego. Confident 

trooper that I am, I replayed conversations 

we had had in verbatim which jolted their 

memories in the same exact moment they 

remembered pressing matters that they had 

to attend to. In an almost rehearsed fashion, I 

was very diplomatically told to wait until they 

got back to me, goodbye. And so I waited. 

It went on like this for a few days until finally 

on my day of travel my anxiousness grew 

into desperation. When after my umpteenth 

attempt, one of my rafikis from the embassy 

answered the phone; it was to tell me that 

I must never call her again. Period. End of 

story. 

There’s a common phrase in the English 

language that’s used to denote that moment 

when it becomes clear that the universe is 

playing a sick joke on you, something about 

dawns and realisation. Well I can tell you 

that it is nonsense because the realisation 

that there would be exactly zero visas for me 

that day pounded rather than dawned on 

me. After a small breathing exercise to regain 

control of my bearings, I swung into disaster 

management mode. My options were few 

and extreme but my enduring and noticeably 

irritated lover got on the phone with me from 

the U.A.E for a process of elimination. It 

was agreed that to cancel the holiday with 

no knowledge of when next my leave from 

work would be approved and with air tickets 

already paid for would be foolhardy which 

left me with only one course of action. We 

had to find a new destination for our holiday 

in a matter of hours. 

Naturally, we had booked accommodation 

on a cheaper, non-refundable policy so 

we didn’t get a single dime back for the 

cancellation. Then came the impossible task 

of finding a spot on the globe where the 

carrier servicing the second sector of my trip 

flew to that was visa exempt for me or could 

issue a visa on arrival. Because my partner is 

an employee of the airline, we could secure 

generous discounts, saving us from impending 

financial ruin ergo other airlines were out of 

the question. When we finally decided on 

Nepal and tickets were booked, I tore out of 

the office like a mad man, went home to finish 

packing and was on my way to JKIA. Still, I 

went on to have a most romantic emergency 

holiday and at the end of the day, it was I that 

had the last laugh. 



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