World Traveller November 2019

INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 139 | NOVEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY
GEORGIA
BRAZIL
STAYCATIONS
TRAVEL OFFERS
Produced in Dubai Production City
The world´s best swims
From sleek city rooftops to rugged lakes,
we've got your next great swim sorted

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Welcome note
Holidays are a coveted chance to refresh body and mind, and
there's no better way to feel a sense of relaxation wash over
you than by diving into a sparkling swimming pool. Our cover
story on the world's best swims (p24) will point you in th
Managing Director
Victoria Thatcher
Chief Creative Officer
John Thatcher
General Manager
David Wade
Managing Editor
Faye Bartle
faye@hotmedia.me
Content Writers
Habiba Azab
habiba@hotmedia.me
Sophia Dyer
Editorial Assistant
Ronak Sagar
Art Director
Kerri Bennett
right direction, with it's round-up of scenic
places to take the plunge. From the salty allure of
Jordan's Dead Sea to the rugged beauty of the
Lake District and glamorous rooftop pools to dip a
toe in... all you need is your best swimwear.
Also in this issue, we take you glamping in
Georgia (p36) and on a journey through vibrant
Bahia in Brazil (p42). If Venice is on your bucketlist,
why not resolve to squeeze in a long weekend
there before the end of the year? Our guide to
ticking off all those major sites, as well as seeking
out some of the lesser-known gems (p48),
provides all the know-how you need to make your
trip a great one.
Last but not least, this issue is jam-packed with
staycation ideas (from p60), giving you plenty of
reasons to make the most of the glorious weekend
weather we're experiencing at the moment.
Happy travels,
Faye Bartle
Win!
A two-night stay
for two at JA The
Resort in sunny
Dubai, p79
FIVE THINGS
WE LEARNED
THIS ISSUE:
1
Snacking on a banana
may help to ease jet lag,
due to its high levels of
potassium, p20
2
You can find the distinct
coco de mer coconut
at only two of the 115
Seychellean islands:
Praslin and Curieuse, p56
3
In the next few years,
the Transcaucasian Trail,
a long-distance hiking
route being developed
in the Caucasus, will
link Svaneti to Ghebi,
bringing more hikers to
the stunning area, p36
4
The reef-fringed island of
Boipeba in Bahia, Brazil,
is a hidden gem that
seemingly packs more
free-roaming wild horses
than humans, p42
Senior Designer
Hiral Kapadia
Senior Advertising Manager
Mia Cachero
mia@hotmedia.me
Production Manager
Muthu Kumar
INSPIRED BY
Photography credits:
Getty Images and Phocal Media
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without written permission from
HOT Media is strictly prohibited.
HOT Media does not accept
liability for omissions or errors in
World Traveller.
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COVER IMAGE
The Skypool at Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard, London
Find us at…
ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com
FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME
INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme
TWITTER @WTravellerME
5
A cultural showpiece,
Venetian masks shine
with their glitzy designs
and, at Ca'Macana,
you can craft your own
bespoke piece, p48
worldtravellermagazine.com 5

The Garden Route, South Africa
Contents
November 2019
10
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
regulars
10 15 20 78 80
TRENDING
DESTINATIONS
This month's goto
places include
vibrant Kathmandu
and Morocco's little
Hollywood, Ouarzazate.
GLOBETROTTER
Winter sun or snow...
we've got your next
holiday covered. Plus,
the best Sri Lankan
beach spots at which to
catch the perfect wave.
THE KNOWLEDGE
Sleep expert and
psychologist Dr. David
Lewis shares his top
tips on how to get a
good night's sleep
while on holiday.
DIGITAL DOWNLOAD
Head online for
exclusive content and,
better still, the chance
to win a two-night
stay at JA The Resort in
sunny Dubai.
SUITE DREAMS
Soak up the scenic views
of the snow-capped
Swiss Alps from the
comfort of the Corner
Junior Suite at Carlton
Hotel St. Moritz.
worldtravellermagazine.com 7

CONTENTS
features
24 36
THE WORLD'S 33 GLAMPING IT UP
BEST SWIMS
Yvonne Gorden goes
Stylish skypools, crystal beyond Tbilisi to uncover
clear lagoons and whitesand
coves, here's where homestays and upmarket
a paradise of hiking,
to plan your next dip. camping in Georgia.
Constance Ephelia Mahé Seychelles
42
BRAZILIAN
BLOWOUT
Alex Robinson explores
a world of street parties,
white sands and coralsnorkelling
in Bahia.
56
ISLAND LORE
Mysterious coconuts,
voodoo dolls and
otherworldly beaches,
Sophia Dyer is spellbound
by the Seychelles.
56
SEYCHELLES
weekends
48 60
A LONG WEEKEND STAYCATIONS
IN VENICE
Feel in need of a break?
With a classical beauty We have a few more
and marvellous tales, reasons to book a
the Floating City awaits. weekend escape.
74
TRAVEL OFFERS
It's time we sent you
packing. Choose your
next adventure from
our exclusive offers.
8 worldtravellermagazine.com

Wellness Haven at Saray Spa.
Renew for the journey ahead.
A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa,
where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the
well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms,
one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two
Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals
or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious
gifts and spa products for every occasion.
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE
T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
*Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter,
reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month
The Garden Route
Spring is in full swing at this South African beauty spot, with its blooming wildflowers painting the landscape in
vivid colours. Embark on a road trip to explore this scenic region and marvel at the incredible beaches, mountains,
forests and lakes that line its winding roads. You won't have a minute to spare with all the wildlife thrills on offer,
including whale watching at Plettenberg Bay, scuba diving, and caving adventures (the Cango Caves are a must-see).
Highlights 1 Get a bird's eye view of the Kaaimans River winding its way through the countryside at the
Map of Africa viewpoint at Wilderness Heights. 2 Grab your binoculars and head to Bontebok National Park,
which is credited with bringing the native bontebok antelope back from the brink of extinction. 3 Take the canopy tour at Tsitsikamma, and
zipline past the giant trees this nature spot protects.
10 worldtravellermagazine.com

TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Ouarzazate
Known as the 'Hollywood of Morocco', the city of Ouarzazate is home to Ait Ben Haddou fortified village, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, which has served as a filming location for hit movies and telelvision shows, including Gladiator
and Game of Thrones. At the edge of the city, you'll find Taourirt Kasbah, a stunning 19 th century palace. Follow the
maze of stairwells to the top and watch the sun set against the backdrop of Morocco’s desert landscape.
Highlights 1 Meet berber people at Tassoumaat Old District Medina. The cosy neighbourhood promises an authentic local
experience. 2 Watch skilled female artisans work on hanbel carpets and embroidered straw mats at Coopérative de Tissage.
3 Movie buffs can continue the quest for behind the scenes insight by visiting Atlas Film Studios, which is home to lots of old movie
sets and is where scenes for silver screen successes including Lawrence of Arabia, The Mummy and The Living Daylights were shot.
worldtravellermagazine.com 11

Ras Al Khaimah
As the temperature drops across the UAE, this northernmost emirate calls intrepid travellers with its wide
expanse of white-sand beaches, fascinating wildlife and majestic mountaintops. Make Jebel Jais, the country's
highest peak, the jumping-off spot for your adventure. Whether it's shooting down the world's longest zip line,
setting off on a challenging hike, or basking in the tranquil desert, it's a thrill-a-minute kind of place.
Highlights 1 Amateur detectives will view the town of Al Jazirat Al Hamra as a mystery worth solving,
with its abandoned buildings and ghostly tales. 2 Take a dip in the mineral-rich hot pools of Khatt springs and let
the sulphurous waters envelop you. 3 Pay a visit to the National Museum of Ras Al Khaimah, which proudly
exhibits a collection of historical, ethnographical and archaeological treasures.
12 worldtravellermagazine.com

TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Kathmandu
The gateway to Mount Everest, Nepal's capital is garnering worldwide attention for its vibrant culture, delicious
food and warm hospitality. Explore the historic city and admire the Newari architecture before boarding a plane
and setting off on a scenic flight across the mountains. It's a brilliant way to see the world's tallest peak in all its
majesty, without having to attempt the difficult feat of climbing it.
Highlights 1 Get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and unwind amid lush foliage at the neo classical
Garden of Dreams. 2 Huff and puff your way up the Swayambhunath Monkey Temple (it's more than 365 steps),
which is home to hundreds of monkeys considered holy to Tibetan Buddhists. 3 Trawl Thamel market for keepsakes, such as singing bowls
and luxurious pashminas.
worldtravellermagazine.com 13

JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA.
Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali.
Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes
from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand
timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis.
To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or
email crome@anantara.com
LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com
CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA

NOVEMBER
Globetrotter
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
Be informed, be inspired, be there
A NEW CHAPTER BEGINS
Follow in the footsteps of Hollywood
stars, including Greta Garbo, by
descending on the glamorous Eden
Rock – St. Barths, which is re-opening
its doors this month (on 20 November)
following a two-year renovation. The
Caribbean bolthole, which was founded
by adventurer Rémy de Haenen and
has been welcoming guests since the
1950s, has a fresh new look, with notable
additions such as the stylish Rémy Bar.
Live it up inside the Villa Rockstar, a
sprawling beach house that wows with its
ultra luxurious touches.
worldtravellermagazine.com 15

GLOBETROTTER
WILD TIMES
Be at one with nature and get
an up-close view of wildlife at
these luxury resorts
WALK WITH GORILLAS
Hike your way through the
misty bamboo forest of
Volcanoes National Park and
track endangered mountain
gorillas while on the Virunga
experience offered by the
new One&Only Gorilla's Nest
in Rwanda. Seeing these
captivating animals in their
natural habitat is one to tick
off the bucket list.
WAKE UP IN A ZOO
At Taronga Zoo's newlyopened
Wildlife Retreat
you can rise and shine to
the sight of koalas dangling
outside your window and red
kangaroos hopping past. This
eco-retreat, which overlooks
Sydney Harbour, aims to
educate while delivering a
touch of luxury.
One &Only Gorilla's Nest
TAKE A WILD DRIVE
Embark on a wildlife drive at
Desert Islands Resort & Spa
by Anantara, off the coast
of Abu Dhabi, and you'll be
rewarded by the sight of freeroaming
animals, including
the protected Arabian oryx.
ON OUR RADAR
Game of Thrones fans
may recognise Malta's
Fort Manoel as the starshaped
mediaeval fort at
which Ned Stark met his
demise. Restored to its
original glory, it is now
open to the pubic. Go
discover its deep-seated
history and marvel at its
stunning architecture.
Team an exotic beach
break with earning your
eco stripes at Six Senses Zil
Pasyon in the Seychelles.
The luxury resort has
a coral restoration
programme, which offers
a coveted chance to
help repair the marine
ecosystems of Félicité and
learn more about the reef.
If you admire the beauty
of Holland's vibrant tulip
fields, then why not help
to plant them? The Tulip
Planting package (until
6 Dec) at Amsterdam's
Conservatorium Hotel is a
great way to swot up on the
history of the region while
helping farmers prepare for
the upcoming season.
Form meets function in
new Hawke collection
of bags for adventure
seekers by Bally.
Whether it's a backpack,
messenger bag or
crossbody pouch you're
after, each piece is
tailored to meet your
travel needs. bally.com
16 worldtravellermagazine.com

GLOBETROTTER
THIS MONTH'S
NEW HOTELS
Pack your bags,
and set off on an
adventure
A TROPICAL ESCAPE
FCC Angkor, Siem Reap
With hints of Frenchtropical
architecture, this
nature-inspired resort is
born from an extensive
renovation of one of the
area's most treasured
colonial sites: the former
mansion of the French
colonial governor and the
Foreign Correspondent’s
Club. Home to 80 rooms
and suites, the property is
steps away from the Royal
Independence Gardens
and Royal Residence.
FEELS LIKE HOME
Rocco Forte House, Piazza
di Spagna, Rome
Those seeking total privacy
will find all the seclusion
they need at this historic
18 th century palazzo. Just
five lavish suites await,
with a dedicated house
manager on hand to tend
to your every whim. Head
to the cosy rooftop terrace
to admire the views of the
famous Spanish Steps.
FCC Angkor
NATURAL WONDERLAND
The Oberoi, Marrakech
Natural beauty abounds
at this picturesque resort
(opening on 1 December),
which is surrounded by
28 acres of landscaped
gardens complete with
citrus orchards, olive groves
and views of the snowcapped
Atlas Mountains. It's
just 25-minutes away from
Djema el-Fna square and
the ancient walled city.
worldtravellermagazine.com 17

GLOBETROTTER
SUN VS. SNOW
Whether you want to soak up the
rays or ski down the slopes this
winter, we've got you covered
Silversands Grenada
THE CARIBBEAN
SILVERSANDS GRENADA
Island life beckons at this exclusive
hideaway, which encourages you to
make the most of the glorious winter
weather with its thrilling line-up of
adventurous pursuits, from hiking to
watersports. Explore the lush jungle,
white sand beaches and shimmering
waters and bask in the inimitable
Caribbean glow. You'll find us lazing
around the infinity pool.
ICELAND
DEPLAR FARM
The expanse of snow-dusted
mountains that surround this chic
lodge deliver the most exhilarating
skiing and snowboarding adventures.
But the fun doesn't end there, as
sea kayaking and whale watching
in the fjords are just some of the
other activities on offer at this luxury
abode located deep in the Icelandic
wilderness. After a day of fast-paced
action, unwind in the geothermally
heated outdoor pool and wait for the
elusive Northern Lights to dance their
way across the sky.
Deplar Farm
Will travel for food. A delicious excuse for
a break, Chef Mauro Colagreco (of three-
Michelin-starred Mirazur fame) has teamed up
with One&Only Royal Mirage in Dubai to bring
his culinary flair to two dining venues there.
18 worldtravellermagazine.com

GLOBETROTTER
Mirissa Beach
SURF'S UP
It's surfing season in Sri Lanka. Here's where to catch a wave...
1MIRISSA BEACH
Matara
South of Weligama, this
hidden gem is one of Sri
Lanka's best kept secrets. Lush
palm trees enhance the scenic
landscape as you work your
way to perfecting that reef
break. If you're lucky, you may
even spot a migrating blue
whale or get to play with a pod
of friendly dolphins.
2HIKKADUWA BEACH
Galle
Consistent waves makes
this idyllic spot a must-do
for surfers of all skill levels.
Beginners will appreciate the
way waves form and peel away
smoothly towards the shore.
Come prepared though, as the
local Hikkaduwa surfers have
a flair for competition – get set
to see some moves.
3UNAWATUNA BEACH
Galle
Turn a day of surfing
fun into a family affair at this
kid-friendly beach. Ride the
waves with your little ones
in tow as they splash away
in the water. Want to know
where the good swells are?
Simply ask the locals. They're
always very happy to point
out the perfect spots.
worldtravellermagazine.com 19

KNOW-HOW
The Knowledge
HOW TO...
Sleep well while you’re on holiday
It may be the last thing on your mind while you're on an exciting holiday, but
getting a good night’s slumber will help you enjoy your break to the max
A whopping 80% of travellers struggle
to sleep when staying away from
home, says recent research*. Settling
into a new environment and hearing
unfamiliar noises are among the top
sleep saboteurs that can leave you
tossing and turning in the early hours,
but feeling far from rested may mean
your holiday experience falls flat. We
picked the brains of Dr David Lewis, a
sleep expert, chartered psychologist
and CEO of Mindlab International, for
his top tips on getting the shut eye you
need to seize the day…
GET IN THE TIMEZONE
“When travelling across time zones,
especially with children, set your watch
to the local time in the area you are
visiting the moment your flight takes
off,” says Dr Lewis. It’ll help you to
adjust more easily on the other side.
Plus, flying can take a toll on
the mind but not the body, so be sure
to get some light exercise – even a
10-minute stroll in the fresh air once
you touch down can work wonders.
PERSONALISE YOUR ROOM
“If you have difficulty dropping off
when you’re away from home, bring a
couple of personal possessions with you
on your travels, such as photos of your
loved ones [if you’re travelling solo], a
lucky charm or, for children, a favourite
doll or teddy bear,” says Dr Lewis.
“Placing them on the bedside table and
looking at them before you turn off the
light will help you settle into a more
comfortable and familiar mindset.”
KEEP UP YOUR GOOD HABITS
“Make sure the bed is warm, but
the room is cool and well aired,” he
suggests. “Also keep the room as dark
as possible, as even a small amount of
light, such as the LED on a TV or radio,
can make it harder to sleep.” As you
may already do at home, avoid caffeine
and screen time three hours prior to
bedtime, and try to stick to your usual
routine as much as possible in order to
trigger the body and mind to prepare
for sleep.
EAT SLUMBER-INDUCING FOODS
“Dehydration is common among
travellers, even on short haul trips, so
make sure you stay well hydrated,” says
Dr Lewis. “The ideal bedtime tipple is
a warm milky drink. Milk contains the
sleep-inducing substance tryptophan
and warming it up releases milk sugars
that feed the body during sleep.”
If you need a snack, reach for a
banana. “It also contains tryptophan
and has a high potassium content that
helps prevent nighttime cramps while
also fighting jet-lag.”
STILL THE MIND
“If you have something on your mind,
try writing it down,” he says. “This
will help prevent distracting thoughts
racing around your mind the moment
your head touches the pillow. A warm,
relaxing bath is a better way to end the
day than a shower which tends to make
you feel more wide-awake.” Reading
a few pages of a good book has been
proven to help unwind the mind.
DRIFT OFF TO
YOUR FAVOURITE SCENT
“The brain is extremely sensitive to
unfamiliar smells and aromas, and while
these may be hard to avoid, they can
often be masked by bringing along
your own favourite essential oil and
sprinkling it on the pillow,” says Dr
Lewis. “The six most effective oils for
this purpose are: clary sage, lavender,
roman chamomile, sweet marjoram
and valerian**.”
Dr. David Lewis has teamed up with
Sheraton Grand London Park Lane and
Hatchards, the oldest bookseller in
London, to curate an exclusive library
of books to read before bedtime to
help guests get a good night’s sleep.
*By InterContinental Hotel Group. **Consult your
doctor before using aromatherapy oils.
20 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER XXXXXXXXXXXXXX SCTDA
WHERE LUXURY RULES
Arabian heritage meets bespoke luxury at Sharjah’s most coveted staycation spots
Rich in art and cultural attractions,
and with stunning natural
landscapes to discover, Sharjah’s
unique blend of modern marvels and
old-world charm is a magnet for intrepid
travellers. Today, the emirate is firmly on
the radar as a leading destination for a
staycation. Here are three of the best luxury
hotels to escape to…
THE STYLISH ABODE
Feel right at home and bask in true Arabian
hospitality at Al Bait Sharjah. Located at
the heart of Sharjah, the 53-room boutique
resort is a unique collection of five preserved
heritage houses that were once owned by
esteemed Emirati families. It’s also home to
impressive architectural sights, including the
UAE’s only round wind tower, as well as an
in-house museum that showcases the city’s
rich history. Retreat to the spa for a soothing
massage, cool off in the outdoor swimming
pool, or sit down at the Arabic restaurant for a
true taste of Arabia as trained chefs cook up a
delicious spread of local delicacies.
THE BOUTIQUE BOLTHOLE
Looking at this stunning rustic retreat, you
wouldn’t guess it was once (in the 1960s) a
simple grocery store and café. Boasting a
fresh new look, Al Faya Lodge & Spa now sits
on the crimson sands of Mount Alvaah as
the latest addition to the Sharjah Collection,
a group of boutique hotels scattered across
the emirate. Whether it's lounging by the
open-air saltwater pool, indulging in an
Arabian style spa retreat or marvelling at the
thousands of stars from the rooftop terrace,
the lodge is the perfect escape from the hustle
and bustle of everyday life.
THE EXCLUSIVE ECO RETREAT
Immerse yourself in the stunning
natural wonders the emirate has to offer at
Sharjah’s new five-star eco-tourism resort,
Kalba Kingfisher Lodge. Offering comfort
and privacy in spades, the boutique hotel
is set against an unspoiled backdrop of
the Indian Ocean and a forest of mangrove
(Qurm) trees, which is home to a number
of fascinatingly beautiful kingfishers and
other rare bird species. Wake up to the
sound of crashing waves from any of the 25
luxuriously appointed tents, each with its
own swimming pool, and lap up the views.
Find out more at visitsharjah.com
Photo: Kalba Kingfisher Lodge
worldtravellermagazine.com 21

Nature's bounty
The island of Sir Bani Yas is brimming with history, nature and wildlife. Add
a splash of luxury, and you’ve got the perfect Abu Dhabi island getaway
22 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X DESERT ISLANDS RESORT & SPA BY ANANTARA
Tucked away inside the nature reserve of Sir
Bani Yas island, Desert Islands Resort &
Spa by Anantara lures the most discerning
travellers with its rugged beauty, thriving wildlife
and Emirati-style splendour.
Just a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi, this
family-oriented retreat is part of the three luxurious
Anantara resorts that grace Sir Bani Yas island – the
others being the tranquil beach getaway of Anantara
Al Yamm Villa Resort, and the Arabian adventure
inspired Anantara Al Sahel Villa Resort.
Sink into plush bedding that envelops you in soft
Egyptian cotton, wake up to stunning sea views,
and cool off under the stylish rain showers. Floorto-ceiling
glass doors allow natural light to cast your
room in a soft glow and open up to a private balcony,
where you can spend the day lounging with a good
book. The Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara
recently introduced its all-inclusive discovery
package, which invites guests to unwind in one of
the opulent rooms, suites or villas. Meals and drinks
are included, as well as your choice of one activity per
night stayed.
For a delectable meal, Amwaj restaurant draws
upon the island’s sea riches to create scrumptious
seafood dishes that will make your taste buds
tingle. Here, you’ll enjoy the flavours of the ocean
in more ways than one, with its fresh-out-of-theocean
plates and stellar setting overlooking the sea.
Meanwhile, Al Shams Restaurant & Bar serves up
Arabic favourites straight to your poolside lounger.
It’s so good you’ll want to take the flavours with you
back home and with Spice Spoons, you can. The
step-by-step class offers you a peek into authentic
Arabian cooking techniques so you can whip up
local delights in the comfort of your own home.
When you tire of lazing under the sun, hop in
one of the safari Jeeps and set off on an exciting
adventure as you encounter rare, free-roaming and
exotic wildlife in the island’s reserve, including the
prized Arabian oryx.
The Arabian Gulf’s sparkling waters will
eventually beckon you to discover its stunning reef,
while the magnetic charm of an Arabian stallion
promises an unforgettable and liberating gallop
through the desert’s sandy golden dunes. History
buffs can also join an archaeological site tour to
marvel at the uncovered remains of the UAE's only
discovered Christian monastery.
Revive yourself with the resort’s signature spa
treatment; the Desert Islands Retreat. A gentle
full-body exfoliation with desert sands followed by
a 90-minute desert fusion massage is the perfect
ending to this action-packed retreat.
Stay amid natural beauty
Dive in and discover
a world of wonders
Unwind and enjoy
the gorgeous vistas
The all-inclusive discovery package starts from
Dhs1,999 per night. To find out more, call +971 2 895
8700 or visit anantara.com
worldtravellermagazine.com 23

The world’s
33
best swims
Whether you prefer muscle-pumping laps
across a rugged lake, or stargazing lazily
on a city rooftop, we’ve got your swim
sorted – to infinity pool and beyond!
Bronte Baths, Sydney
24 worldtravellermagazine.com

BEST SWIMS
Adaaran Select Meedhupparu
POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE
Raa Atoll, the Maldives
If you’re lucky, you’re the first person
here. You pad a virgin trail of footprints
from bungalow to sea, and stretch out
on the cool sand. Picking up snorkel
gear, you chat with the hut attendant
about recent star sightings (‘There’s
a lionfish about — you might have
to dive down to see it’), before your
flippers propel you past the shallows,
to that crescent of pulsating coral
you’ve become addicted to. Here,
20 strokes from the beach and an
arm’s length from your mask, sea that
looked a blanket turquoise from your
seaplane reveals swirls of Day-Glo
parrotfish, sail-shaped Moorish idols
and blue tangs. Then, there’s that surly
lionfish. You watch its striped mohican
slink down to where the reef drops off
to an intimidating indigo. Head full of
ocean colour scenes, you paddle back
to laze by the pool for an hour at least.
That reef’s not going anywhere.
BUCKET-LIST DIP
The Dead Sea, Jordan
Cleopatra bathed here, King David hid
here from Saul, Jesus was baptised
upriver — even Herod slipped on his
Speedos for a dip. You’re floating in a
sea of history, and the amazing thing
is, despite the corporate hotel chains
thronging the shores, it still feels
transcendent. That salt stings, though,
which is why it’s best to access the
water via a hotel’s (with its freshwater
pools and showers for after). Try to keep
the salt out of any cuts or grazes, and
don’t shave any part of your body the
day you plunge!
SECRET SPLASH
Pigeon Island, St Lucia
You didn’t come here to swim, but you’ll
miss out if you don’t. Pigeon Island is
a former British military fort, now a
national park, at St Lucia’s northern tip.
Stretch your legs on the spiralling hike
to its hilltop, snapping the obligatory
photo with the cannons there. You’ll be
trekking back down just as the sticky
heat of late morning sets in — so first
slip down to the curves of sand on its
south side for a secret swim. There’s
a public loo to change in, and shade
from the trees. Kick off your shoes and
plunge into the Listerine-fresh ocean.
HOTEL POOL HEAVEN
Grand Hotel Tremezzo,
Lake Como
Outside, you have the glittering expanse
of Lake Como and a ‘secret’ garden
pool — all visible from your room. Inside,
there’s a velvet-red staircase to sweep
down as you head for dinner in your
best holiday togs. But, floating in the
lake, as smugly as George Clooney on
his hols is this special swim spot. It’ll get
in the way of your Como sightseeing —
lizard-still on the hotel’s loungers, drink
in hand and the gelato-cool pool right
by you, you’ll watch the tourist ferry
pass by with no urge to move.
worldtravellermagazine.com 25

BEST SWIMS
POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE
The Great Barrier Reef
Zig-zag clouds of yellow snappers,
tornadoes of electric-blue fusiliers
and forests of rainbow staghorn coral:
diving in the GBR is like swimming in
a giant psychedelic cocktail. There are
countless ways to explore this sprawling
2,300km-long reef, but if you’re serious
about your sea life, head north to,
say, the Ribbon Reefs, for the richest
variety of fish. Accessed by seaplane,
then a live-aboard boat, it’s not the
easiest or cheapest spot, but you get
uncrowded waters and pristine coral for
your trouble. Huge swathes of the reef
were bleached by the El Niño weather
phenomenon, so it’s vital to go with a
responsible operator that knows where
to find flourishing regrowth and how
to prevent further damage. Conditions
range from mirror-like (ideal for drifting
alongside Labrador-sized potato cod) to
choppy and wild, but even novices can
dive here with a skilled team to guide
them safely into the depths.
BUCKET LIST
Faraglione di Mezzo, Capri
It was in front of this ancient
oceanic arch that David Gandy
smouldered for that Dolce &
Gabbana advert — and Capri
boat trips have never had a lull
in business since. As life is not a
fragrance ad, it’s choppier than
you’d think, the deep water chilly
’til mid summer. So get your
photo, take a dunk into depths
as ice-blue as Gandy’s eyes,
then climb back on board for a
Prosecco. This swim is all about
the posing, anyway.
3POP-
CULTURE
POOLS
THE ESTHER
WILLIAMS ONE:
The Raleigh,
Miami Beach
Hollywood’s
‘million- dollar
mermaid’ filmed
many of her sleek
synchronisedswimming
routines
in this Art Deco
pool. Now you
can stay in her
namesake suite.
THE CLUB
TROPICANA
ONE: Pikes
Hotel, Ibiza
A mega-bronzed
George Michael
and Andrew
Ridgeley cavorted
by this slim, tiled
pool for their
holiday anthem’s
music video.
Bring your own
lilos/trumpets.
THE FAYE
DUNAWAY ONE:
Beverly Hills Hotel,
Los Angeles
Terry O’Neill’s
‘morning
after’ portrait
of Dunaway
reflecting on her
1977 Oscar win
made this pool
synonymous
with Hollywood
glamour.
26 worldtravellermagazine.com

SECRET SPLASH
Mexico’s cenotes
Yucatán’s beaches can get a little
TOWIE. For a more thrilling swim,
drive 90 minutes inland to paddle
under Gaudíesque rock formations
and leap from vines into the
fresh, teal water of the cenotes.
The peninsula is punctured with
thousands of these prehistoric
limestone sinkholes, overgrown with
tropical jungle and open year-round.
Some, such as Dos Ojos, are cool,
vaguely claustrophobic caverns;
while others, like Escondido, are
splashed with sunlight. It’s like
swimming in a tropical luxury spa
— clean, quiet, almost baptismal.
Sunscreen is verboten, unless it’s
biodegradable. With hardly another
body bobbing around, you’d think
tourists were, too.
worldtravellermagazine.com 27

3WILDLIFE
SWIMS
SWIM WITH
DOLPHINS
IN PUERTO
VALLARTA,
MEXICO
Invest in an
underwater camera
or case: seeing a
pod of these wild
bottlenose dolphins
frolicking around
your flippers is a
memory you’ll want
to replay.
SNORKEL WITH
WHALE SHARKS
IN ARI ATOLL,
MALDIVES
This full-day
excursion, run
by the five-star
Huvafen Fushi
resort, makes
snorkelling with
these giants feel
like a one-on-one.
Float calmly as they
glide past.
DIVE WITH
TURTLES IN
SIPADAN,
MALAYSIA
Turtle-spotting
off Sipadan Island
doesn’t feel as
intrusive with
access limited
to 120 people a
day. Go April to
September, when
females nest on the
beach.
POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE
La Maddalena, Sardinia
Are you floating? Or are you flying?
The clarity of the water surrounding
Sardinia’s virgin Maddalena archipelago
can play tricks on you. As you lie
suspended in the aquamarine liquid,
ears submerged so that all sounds
are dulled to a drowsy murmur, the
sailboat that delivered you here looks
as if it’s dangling in mid-air — it’s almost
impossible to gauge where the sky ends
and the sea begins. You knew Sardinia’s
northeast coast would be a corker: its
white-sand coves pick up best-beach
awards as breezily as daisies. But the
Maddalena islands’ shores are a notch
up: so pristine and well-protected, the
judges don’t yet know to add them to
their shortlist. Of the 60-plus islands,
you can only camp on a handful, so a
boat trip is the best way to make this
fantasy swim real. Dario, the skipper of
’20s wooden sailboat Pulcinella, knows
the Maddalenas like his own children,
and always delivers his group (of 12
max) there ahead of the pack. While he
drops anchor, shimmy your way past
others onto the first dinghy headed to
shore — that way, yours will be the first
body of the day to hit the crystal waters.
Go in September: the shallow bays are
tub-warm and you might even spot a
dolphin or two.
28 worldtravellermagazine.com

BEST SWIMS
BUCKET-LIST DIP
Bondi Icebergs
Pool or sea? The dilemma has never
been more delicious than at Sydney’s
iconic Bondi Beach, where the sandy
southern reaches meet an Olympicsized,
man-made swimming pool
(and a smaller kids’ one) known as
‘the Icebergs’. The swimming club it’s
named after was founded 90 years ago
so that Bondi’s lifeguards could train
year-round, and there’s nothing more
exhilarating than being smacked in the
face by salty surf while powering across
its wind-rippled infinity pool. Don’t miss
the sauna, included in your ticket price.
SECRET SPLASH
The Fairy Pools, Isle of Skye
At the foot of Skye’s brooding Cuillin
mountains, the river fizzes into a
string of crystal-clear ponds. Clamber
down from the trail onto broad, flat
rocks so you can shed your gear and
dive into the limpid water of the first
pool. It’s freezing so bring a wetsuit
outside of summer. Emboldened by
that icy adrenaline? Dive down to swim
under the submerged stone arch that
connects two of the pools. They’re
an easy half-hour hike along gently
ascending hillside from the nearest car
park (Glumagan Na Sithichean).
SKY-HIGH SWIM
Shangri-La Hotel at the
Shard, London
Swimming above London’s
helicopters — in the Shard’s 52 nd -
storey ‘Skypool’ — is a once-ina-lifetime
encounter. It’s also a
once-in-a-lifetime spend for a swim,
as the pool is open only to hotel
guests. Note to fitness swimmers:
it’s diddy, at just 11m long. Note
to parents: kids are only allowed
between 9am and 11am and 3pm
and 5pm. Note to daydreamers:
there are sofas and free coffee, so
make a morning of it.
HOTEL-POOL SWIM
Four Seasons Serengeti
A dust-dry plain sprouting baobab
trees, clouds scudding across a
burnt yellow sky, and
herds of elephants, buffaloes and
zebras at feeding time. A baby
elephant clambers into the water to
cool off just metres from the lip of
the infinity pool where you’re doing
the same. From sunrise to sunset,
this glimmering water gives you a
front-row seat for the Tanzanian
watering hole’s daily dramas (keep
your eyes peeled for trotting
warthogs), as well as miles of empty
savannah ahead. You’ll see the
most diverse wildlife during the dry
season (July-October).
worldtravellermagazine.com 29

BEST SWIMS
©Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
SKY-HIGH SWIM
Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
Singapore’s streets is the ultimate
swimmer’s selfie. A 6am swim before
the crowds arrive, with dawn breaking
behind the sharp-shouldered towers of
the financial district, is worth the price
of the stay alone.
SECRET SPLASH
Wadi Shab, Oman
Look up: youngsters are diving off the
cliffs, screeching into the soup-warm
water. Their splashes are muffled by
the slender Wadi Shab ravine, a deep
valley of emerald-green pools edged
by sandstone and palm trees. But
you’ve already had your adrenaline fix
scrambling over sandstone boulders
for half an hour to get here (after
a 2.5-hour drive from Muscat), so
skip the jump and drift lazily into
the pool. Swim through the shaded
depths until you find the narrow
arch at the end of the ravine. Here,
the Wadi reveals its secret: a hidden
cave pool, framed by a narrow
waterfall, like a sultan’s secret
bath house.
SECRET SPLASH
Elbow Beach, Bermuda
Swimming here is like gliding across a
mag cover. Stroll east from the resortowned
private stretch of Elbow beach
to the public bit — a glorious swathe of
sand known only by locals. Its pinktinged
sand gives the sea an extraluminous
aquamarine hue.
3PERFECT
POOLS IN
THE UAE
ANANTARA THE
PALM DUBAI
RESORT, DUBAI
Here, it's as easy as
opening the door
of your over water
villa and dipping
straight into the
tranquil swimming
lagoons that weave
their way through
this Thai-inspired
resort on Palm
Jumeirah.
THE ST. REGIS
ABU DHABI
Back with a fresh
new look and feel,
this luxury hotel's
inifnity pool, at
Nation Riviera
Beach Club, draws
design lovers
with its elegant
mix of colour and
pattern. Chill while
overlooking the
private beach.
ADDRESS SKY
VIEW, DUBAI
Take the plunge
and soak up the
panoramic city
views at the hotel's
sparkling infinity
pool. Perched high
up on the Sky Deck,
this elevated oasis
in Downtown Dubai
is best enjoyed with
a drink in hand at
the pool bar.
Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort
30 worldtravellermagazine.com

BEST SWIMS
POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE
Grace Hotel, Santorini
Santorini splash you’ve dreamt of
— all smooth white edges meeting
endless Mediterranean shimmer
and honeymooners chain-ordering
bubbly. Plan a walk for later (the
bell-shaped Skaros Rock is in view,
as is the coastal trail to that postcard
town Oia), but for now, accept that
the Grace’s pool scene is all about
soaking up rays, grazing on sea
bass carpaccio in the shaded nooks
behind it, and people-watching from
behind your shades. Rise early to
nab the loungers to the far right of
the pool as you face it: they’re the
evening suntraps.
worldtravellermagazine.com 31

3CITY
SWIMS
THERMAE BATH
SPA, BATH
You can’t swim in
the ancient Roman
baths here, but
you can idle in
the mineral-rich
waters at this multilevel
spa. Paddle
through pools up to
a heated open-air
pool surrounded by
spires and Regency
rooftops.
BADESCHIFF,
BERLIN
Urban beaches
pop up in summer
from Paris to
London, but
Berlin’s is the
coolest, a full-on
neon-blue pool
immersed in the
Spree river. Go for
mingling, beats
and bars on its
wooden deck.
PISCINE MOLITOR,
PARIS
The grande-dame
Art Deco pool is
a photographer’s
dream (and
filmmaker’s: it had
a cameo in the film
Life of Pi) with its
crisp balconies
and doorways. To
use it, you’ll need
a key to the Hotel
Molitor Paris.
Thermae Bath Spa
SECRET SPLASH
Angle Tarn,
Lake District, England
It’s nippy all right, but after a sweaty
slog up from the valley below, nippy is
precisely what you’ll be wanting. Dive
in, surrendering to its icy embrace
(a swimming cap will help), as your
exhilarated whoops echo around
the amphitheatre of lonely crags
towering above. For swimmers, the
Lake District is an all-you-can-eat
buffet of lakes and meres, river pools
and tarns, but if anywhere up here
puts the ‘wild’ into ‘wild swimming’,
it’s this mountain pool, marooned
halfway up England’s highest summit,
Scafell Pike. Distance swimmers need
not apply—it’s only 200m from shore
to shore. But lazybones should take
their Speedos elsewhere: it’s dizzyingly
remote, reached only after a two-hour
ascent from Seathwaite, Wasdale Head
or the Langdale Valley. Wild paddlers
should budget for longer: all routes up
(on excellent, waymarked paths) follow
stunning mountain streams that twinkle
and tease at every turn. Wild camping
is the way to do it, if you can — a flat,
grassy shelf on its northern shore is
crying out for a tent and stove.
32 worldtravellermagazine.com

BEST SWIMS
© Palais Namaskar, Marrakech
HOTEL-POOL HEAVEN
Palais Namaskar,
Marrakech
Atlas Mountains beyond, the pool
is so serene it seems a shame
to disturb it. Despite its vast
proportions (long enough for
lengths, but with shallow steps
for kids, too), it is heated, so go in
February/March when it’s 26°C by
lunchtime, but the peaks are still
snow-capped. Most guests use their
private villa pools, leaving this one
perpetually peaceful.
SECRET SPLASH
Paxos, Greece
Paxos has dreamy swims by the
dozen, but the beach you want is
Lakkos, a cliff-hugged splodge of
white pebbles in the Ionian island’s
northeast. Swim laps around the curl
of the bay, or float over fish-silvered
seaweed and spiny black urchins
(mind your feet). Go in May, when the
sea is warming up and you get the
beach to yourself. Steps back up lead
to a steep path best tackled barefoot
— you’ll slide out of your flip-flops.
BUCKET LIST
The Blue Lagoon, Iceland
Waste products from power stations
don’t usually look this ethereally
beautiful. But this is Iceland — so this
man-made ‘lagoon’ is geothermal, the
water luminously blue (it’s the silicates,
since you asked), and sociable soaks in
it are part of the culture. Travel snobs
will tell you that real Icelanders are more
likely to go to smaller, local pools (which
is true), but none of those municipal
baths offers the same dramatic black
crags or haunting mistscape.
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing
POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE
Koh Hong, Thailand
Everyone should take a boat trip in
southern Thailand. Nowhere else in
the world will you experience a more
VIP-feeling voyage for so little cash
(five hours’ gliding about costs from
just $15). On your elegant longtail
boat (speedboats are faster, but
less romantic), strike a supermodel
pose as you crane your neck to
marvel at the mossy outcrops of
the islands in the emerald waters
off Krabi. Everyone does the Phi
Phi islands, so head instead for the
Hongs — Koh Hong National Park
is the wild James Bond seduction
fantasy you’ve always pictured.
Book the right boat and its skipper
will take you for a swim in the secret
lagoon encircled by rock face at the
island’s centre, before depositing
you on fine, gold sand, under
imposing, vine-tangled cliffs. The
beach should be quiet, but up your
chances by going in the shoulder
season (late November or May).
worldtravellermagazine.com 33

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XXXXXXXXXXXXX
A daisy field in Svaneti, Georgia,
with a view towards Ushba
Postcards
Stories from journeys
far and wide
GEORGIA p36
BRAZIL p42
VENICE p48
worldtravellermagazine.com 35

CALIFORNIA
Soaking up
the sun and scenery at
Georgia Glamping
36 worldtravellermagazine.com

GEORGIA
Beyond Tbilisi lies a paradise of
hiking,homestays and upmarket camping in
Georgia. Yvonne Gorden goes exploring…
worldtravellermagazine.com 37

GEORGIA
the clock on
the wall reads
5.30pm. Irina
sits chatting at
the large round table as her young
grandchildren, Giorgi and Mariami,
play beside her. Outside, chickens and
pigs root around in the grass. Behind
the house is forest and a dramatic
mountain backdrop, the green fields
and trees fading away to grey, rocky
summits lined with snow and ice.
It’s a peaceful scene in Gona, in
the Racha region of western Georgia,
5,500ft above sea level in the Caucasus
Mountains. This was once a thriving
village, but the remaining scattered
houses are mostly deserted after
the molybdenum mines closed
in the 1950s; butterflies and wild
flowers have claimed the gateways
of abandoned properties. Irina
and her family are the only fulltime
residents, and even they only
spend eight months of the year
here, as the road is impassable
from November to March due to
snow. A few other families come
for a week or two of holidays.
We’re here, just a few miles from
the Russian border, to experience
Georgia’s less familiar areas, those
untouched by tourism. We had to get
permits to hike in the area and a local
driver to bring us here in a 4x4, up
a bumpy potholed road. The Racha
highland region promises endless
hiking trails, pristine mountains and
glaciers, amazing food and a slowtravel
experience away from betterknown
areas such as Tbilisi and
Svaneti. Even most of the Georgians
I meet elsewhere haven’t been here.
When we visit Irina and her family
— her husband, Gia, their son David
and his wife, Maka — they give us,
a group of four slightly dishevelled
hikers, a warm welcome. “They’re
offering us cheese bread,” says
Zviad, our guide, who is translating.
Mariami’s crayons are cleared away
and a plate of khachapuri appears
on the table. Next, a tomato and
cucumber salad. Then fruit.
Soon the table fills with meat,
cheese, wild onions and sour cream.
Gia fills glasses and proposes the
first of many toasts — to thank us
for coming here. It’s typical Georgian
hospitality, where guests are seen
as a “gift from God”. The mines may
be closed, but there are signs that
the fledgling tourist industry will
bring more people to the area. Irina
proudly shows us a visitors’ book.
Everyone is provided with just such
a feast and not charged a penny.
Earlier in the day, we’d hiked to
the nearby Kirtisho glacier through
woods of pine, chestnut, beech and
rich green ferns, and along a forestry
trail filled with wild roses, daisies
and butterflies. The distant mountain
peaks looked grey and moody, with
pockets of snow and ice between rocky
ridges. Meltwater rushed from a cave
under the glacier to the river below.
That evening, at Sergo’s Guest
House, in the village of Ghebi, we
gather at a communal dining table
for a feast of chicken, potatoes and
bread. Fellow guests from Belarus
join our enthusiastic toasts, even
though they don’t understand them.
After dinner, we watch Sergo’s aunt
making Racha cheese. There are four
shared rooms — Sergo is adding more
accommodation and a dining room to
meet growing demand. After dinner,
his builders, Giorgi and Zuriko, play
dominoes under the stars as the haze
of the Milky Way stretches over the
silent mountains in the distance.
In the next few years, the
Transcaucasian Trail, a long-distance
hiking route being developed in the
Caucasus, will connect to the region,
linking Svaneti to Ghebi and bringing
more hikers to the area. Indeed, the
walking is the highlight of our days.
From the resort town of Shovi, a fourmile,
3½-hour (each way) trek takes us
up to the Buba glacier. The trail starts
steep and muddy, through pine and
beech forest. After a couple of hours, it
opens up to subalpine meadows, with
the long grass full of pink and white
daisies, buttercups and butterflies.
At the top of the meadow, at 8,000ft,
we take in the scene — 360-degree
views of jagged mountaintops.
Credit: Yvonne Gorden / The Sunday Times / News Licensing
38 worldtravellermagazine.com

Clockwise from top left:
A deluxe tent at Georgia Glamping;
wildflowers bloom in the mountains;
hikers explore the Caucasus Mountains;
cheese bread topped with egg; horses
pause to drink from a mountain lake
worldtravellermagazine.com 39

GEORGIA
Activities on the lake aside
Georgia Glamping
We fill our water bottles with
cool water from a stream and
watch as puffy clouds slowly push
shadows over the green hills.
At the country’s first glamping site,
Glamping Georgia, in Ambrolauri, six
space-age-looking round white tent
pods are set on a hill, overlooking
a valley and slopes of dense pine
forest. Inside the air-conditioned
tents, there’s a bathroom and a
kitchenette; outside, a private deck
with wicker rocking chairs. Linden,
oak and apple trees surround the
tents. The clean, fresh air is rich
with birdsong and insects zip back
and forth. The only other sound is
the Krikhula River below. It’s the
perfect place to disconnect. A canopy
of stars opens up overhead and
Giorgi, the owner, drops by to give
us a bottle of his homemade grape.
We spend the final days of our
trip in central Georgia, at Borjomi,
a summer retreat for the Romanovs,
famous for its mineral waters and
sulphur baths. Covering 210,000 acres,
the Borjomi-Kharagauli National
Park has one of the largest areas
of pristine virgin forest in Europe,
and many flora and fauna habitats.
There are 12 marked trails for hiking,
riding and snowshoeing, as well as
tourist shelters and camping areas.
We hike the Nikoloz Romanov Trail
from Likani to Lomis mountain,
where a river valley leads up through
forest to alpine meadows of tall
grasses and wild flowers. We pass
only a handful of other hikers. I know
that the reward at 7,200ft will be the
views. What I don’t expect to find at
the top is free-roaming horses with
glossy brown coats, a tiny decorative
church and carpets of wild blooms.
This is what we came for — unspoilt
nature and slow travel. It’s a few
hours’ hike back down, but all I want
to do is lie down amid the flowers,
close my eyes and just breathe.
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
‘
THE CLEAN, FRESH AIR
IS RICH WITH BIRDSONG
AND INSECTS ZIP BACK
AND FORTH. THE ONLY
OTHER SOUND IS THE
KRIKHULA RIVER BELOW
’
40 worldtravellermagazine.com

worldtravellermagazine.com 41

INDONESIA
This image: A bowl of
Moqueca, a traditional fish
stew Opposite: A woman
celebrates during carnival time
This page: The pool
at Amanpuri
42 worldtravellermagazine.com

BRAZIL
Street parties, sugar plantations, white sands and
coral-snorkelling: if you want the Caribbean of old, you
need Bahia, in Brazil, says Alex Robinson
worldtravellermagazine.com 43

entle bays
where turtles
swim in
turquoise seas.
Dancing feet
on cobbled
streets... The
images filled my
thoughts. Carnival drums and carved saints
came to mind. Crimson sunsets and freshly
cracked coconuts brimming over with juice.
If I’d rung up a travel agent and uttered
those words I know where they’d have
recommended: the Caribbean for two weeks.
But I knew precisely where my tropical
daydreams could be brought to life — Brazil.
For a while in the Noughties, I lived
in Brazil’s biggest city, São Paulo. It was
friends there — friends who I keep to this
day — who’d opened my eyes to the allure
of the northeastern state, Bahia. ‘You have
to see it,’ I remember them swooning. ‘It’s
just like Jamaica or Barbados, but better.’
Of course I went — and not just the once.
In Bahia, Africa was replanted in South
America — under coconut palms and in
sugarcane plantations cut from parrotfilled
forests. Transported slaves were
inevitably part of the story — and they held
on fiercely to what traditions they could.
The legacy for arrivals today? Spicy food,
magical saints, street parties and irresistible
music. I’ve holidayed in the Caribbean,
and Bahia makes me think of what those
islands might have been before the cruise
ships and high-rise hotels arrived.
Its state capital, Salvador — wow!
Never mind Havana, this is the liveliest,
most sultry colonial city in the Americas.
The food’s unforgettable, the nightlife
pulsating, and the white-sand beaches just
a half-hour ferry-ride away on Itaparica
island. It’s so good that, basically, I’ve
never been able to tear myself away.
So that’s where I’d be heading. But those
friends again... Ringing me recently, they
raved about Boipeba, a reef-fringed island
south of Salvador, shrouded with forest,
seemingly with more wild horses than
people. ‘It puts Itaparica in the shade,’ they
said. It stuck in my mind as I finalised
my plans. Would Boipeba be the one to
seduce me from Salvador’s embrace?
Watching the sun sinking golden over
Salvador from the balcony of my hotel room
on my first breeze-cooled afternoon, I was
already falling back under its spell. The
houses of the Pelourinho, the old colonial
centre, rolled down a hill below me in
tumbledown terracotta and stippled steeples
to a Tiffany-blue sea. Itaparica island floated
on the horizon. A hummingbird flitted over
a bougainvillea tree next to my window and
music wafted up from the streets. As the day
was ending in buttery yellow light, Salvador
was waking up. It was Saturday night and
soon it would be dark — time to let the
sensuous, spontaneous city carry me away.
Outside the hotel, Terreiro de Jesus Square
was a swirl of movement. Afro-Brazilian
women in huge bustle skirts and bright
headscarves served steaming falafel-like
acarajé snacks at lace-draped stalls. The
air was sweet with the scent of chilli and
shrimp, and danced with the melodious
chatter of Brazilian Portuguese. I heard
the rat-a-tat of a repinique samba drum
echoing from one of the brightly painted
houses set around the square, and in the
distance, the Voodoo Chile wah-wah twang
of a berimbau — the single-string guitar
with a gourd for a sound board. I followed
the notes along a narrow cobbled street into
the thronging heart of the Pelourinho.
Music was everywhere: a normal
Salvador weekend entle bays where feels
like Trinidad in carnival time. Brazilian
reggae oozed from streetside bars, samba
skipped across little praças. And somewhere
I could hear that most Salvadorean of
sounds — an afoxê orchestra warming
up. Paul Simon called afoxê the ‘rhythm
of the saints’ — a pounding, visceral
beat that hits you below the waistline.
It’s played by bands of drummers who
parade through the streets with military
precision and tribal swing. They energise
the Pelourinho at weekends, calling the
crowds with bass drums and clattering
timbales, and pulling revellers behind
them like Pied Pipers with percussion.
First, a drink or two. At my favourite
Salvador bar, Uauá, above a narrow street
leading into the Pelourinho, I had a ringside
seat. As my first Caipirinha arrived, an afoxê
band came round the corner. By the second,
I was jiggling in my seat, ready to dance. I
could already hear the next wave coming.
44 worldtravellermagazine.com

BRAZIL
Clockwise from top left:
Sunset falls on La Rivera beach;
traditional drummers bring the
beat to the street; a colourful hut
between coconut palm trees on
Boipeba Island; capoeira played
on the beach
worldtravellermagazine.com 45

The Old Town in Salvador
46 worldtravellermagazine.com

BRAZIL
‘
SALVADOR — WOW! NEVER
MIND HAVANA, THIS IS THE
LIVELIEST, MOST SULTRY
COLONIAL CITY IN THE AMERICAS
’
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing
Banda Didá, an all-female percussion band
led by a woman with a huge pink Afro
burst into the street below me, playing
right below my table. A local couple at
the next table looked across and smiled.
‘Vamos, amigo!’ they said. I had no choice.
Salvador had taken me. So I joined them
on the streets, to parade and dance behind
Banda Didá, drink more Caipirinhas and
finish the night goodness knows when.
Sunday morning woke me with
church bells and more percussion.
I’d only had a few hours’ sleep, but I
couldn’t resist Salvador’s drums.
Later, as I cooled in the hotel pool
with an açai-berry smoothie, I could
feel myself coming dangerously close to
giving in to Salvador’s seductive pull —
there were all those markets to revisit,
piquant food to sample, more glittering
churches, more drum parades...
‘Stay,’ sang Salvador. Boipeba, I
reminded myself. I needed to get there
before Salvador sucked me in. So I
skipped the overland route south via
sugarcane fields and chocolate plantations
and splashed out on an air taxi.
The flight was spectacular — over
the terracotta and high-rise sprawl of
Salvador, the glittering Bay of All Saints,
specked with white yachts and tiny beachfringed
islands. Then rainforest: ribbons
of brown river snaking through the green
into swathes of spidery mangroves, white
egrets floating above them like winddrifting
petals. An eagle... The mangroves
became beaches and beaches and beaches.
Then we dropped over a river-mouth
harbour with a few wooden fishing boats,
a tiny hamlet of cottages, a cocoa tree
plantation, a gash of grass cut from the
coconut palms... This was Boipeba.
I’d decided to stay in Boipeba village.
There were options further south that
looked wilder, but I wanted a bit of
local life. The island, friends had told
me, is cut with trails running through
the rainforest, sweeping along the
beaches. Don’t just flop on the beach,
they said. Boipeba is a place to walk.
My hotel, Pousada Santa Clara, was
a delight, shaded by tall branches and
set in its own butterfly-filled tropical
garden near the village beach. I allowed
myself one afternoon to laze in the
hammock outside my room, thumbing
a paperback and watching as marmoset
monkeys played in the trees, and little
agoutis — like guinea pigs on stilts —
rummaged underneath. In the evening
I wandered along the beach into the
village, a strip of sand lined with a few
thatched bars, and watched the sun
sink watermelon-red behind the palms.
The moqueca I ordered — a fish stew
similar to Jamaican rundown, but with
twice the flavour — came in a huge
terracotta pot, simmering in coconut and
dendê oil, garnished with coriander.
But the locals at the adjacent table
— three young men with dreadlocks
and tiny Speedos and a woman in an
equally tiny bikini — wouldn’t let me eat
alone. ‘This is Bahia,’ they laughed. And
I was pulled over to join them at their
table. Glasses clinked in introduction
— ‘Pedro, Chico, João e Andressa.’
‘Meet us on the beach tomorrow,’ they
said after dinner. ‘We’ll play capoeira,
then show you the way to Moreré. It’s the
most beautiful beach on the island.’ Like
Salvador, Boipeba had taken hold of me.
The next day I woke early, when the
sun was still twinkling low over the sea,
its first rays as gentle as the lapping
water on Boipeba village’s white beach.
Capoeira is tough — a whirligig martialart
dance with intricate steps. I’d never
even managed the most basic of them.
But then my new friends appeared, all
smiles and high-fives, and the capoeira
began — João with the berimbau, me
awkwardly bashing out rhythms on a
hand drum. And Andressa and Chico
began to dance — spinning and swirling
at effortless speed. I was dragged in. And
with all the rhythm and positive energy
of the morning I somehow managed a
capoeira ginga — the simplest three-way
step that lies behind all capoeira moves.
It was the first time I’d mastered it, and I
sat down, sweaty, panting and grinning
with boyish pleasure at my achievement.
After a cool beach-bar passionfruit
juice we set off to Moreré, my toes
sinking into the sand as I walked, sending
ghost crabs scurrying into their burrows.
The path left the sand and cut up into
rainforest. An iridescent blue morpho
butterfly as big as a handkerchief floated
along before us like a spirit guide. Birds
chirruped welcomes overhead and a
cicada soundwave washed through the
trees, hissing like water on a shingly
shore. We passed beach after beach,
all gorgeous enough to fill a whole day.
There was palm-shaded Tassimirim,
empty but for a couple of feral horses.
(‘You can hire a horse for a beach ride,’
Andressa told me.) Then the long,
broad crescent of white-pepper-fine
sand at Cueira — which took half an
hour to walk across. (‘This is where we
come to body-surf,’ said João.) And
then Moreré.
Moreré is that beach everyone
dreams of — squeaky white sand,
turquoise sea, towering coconut palms
and a single bamboo kiosk, painted
in bright colours, with wooden tables
in the sand under a thatch roof. The
Caribbean had nothing on this.
We ordered fresh fish straight from
the reef and a chilled green coconut. The
bartender — like a young Grace Jones
— opened it with two swift hacks of a
machete. Later we snorkelled over the
turtle-filled reef and lazed in tidal pools
as big as tennis courts. It was bliss.
And I had a week ahead of me to
snorkel, to body-surf, to horse-ride
and to wander the forest trails.
Salvador had seduced me. But on
Boipeba I had fallen in love.
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
worldtravellermagazine.com 47

long
the
weekend
Venice
A labyrinth of busy squares,
colourful canals and marble
palazzos, this floating city
floods the imagination with
its classical beauty
This page: A gondola gliding its
way through the city
Opposite, from top: Sweeping
views of the Dorsoduro district,
Al Ponte Antico Hotel
48 worldtravellermagazine.com

THE LONG WEEKEND
Venice welcomes you with an enchanting serenade, as
gondoliers glide their way through the intricate web of
the city's many waterways, carrying loved-up couples
from all over the world. The beating heart of the city
is the Grand Canal, a reflection of architectural glories
with exquisite palazzos and gothic museums lining its
banks. On land, narrow backstreets twist past and over
bridges to unveil a treasure trove of art and culture.
The city is divided into six districts (the sestieri), each
with its own charm and character. One way or another,
you're bound to wind up at San Marco. At the core
of the city, it is where iconic sights, such as St. Mark’s
Basilica and the Doge’s Palace can be found. Across the
Rialto Bridge is San Polo with its lively bar scene, while
the artisans' neighbourhood of Dorsoduro is brimming
with prestigious art galleries. The largest of the sestieri,
Castello is where you can watch elderly Venetian women
gossip between windows and children playing ball in
the piazzas. Lose yourself in the winding alleyways and
discover why visitors flock to this fairytale-like city.
BLISSFUL SLUMBER
Doze off to the lullabies
of the city
Literary
dream
These hidden gems will
result in a serious case of
bibliophilia
The artsy one: Officially
declared a National
Monument on account of
its beauty, Ca Sagredo
Hotel is an art-lovers
dream-stay. Make your
way up the magnificent
18th century Scalone dei
Giganti staircase that’s
entirely surrounded by
frescoes, and wander
through hallways adorned
with original masterpieces
by Venetian painters
including Niccolò Bambini
and Giambattista Tiepolo.
The grand one: It's easy
to understand why the
Clooney’s chose to spend
their wedding night at this
sumptuous 16th century
palazzo. Aman Venice
welcomes you with its own
brand of luxury – think
trompe-l’oeil grandiose
staircase, Murano glass
chandeliers, Rubelli silk
wall coverings and Rococo
works of art, to name a few.
The cosy one: Tucked away
in the charming Dorsoduro
district, Ca’ Maria Adele
draws style-conscious
travellers with its unique
take on Venetian décor.
The boutique hotel boasts
five concept rooms, each
with its own design and
story. Book the Sala Noire
and relish in its delicious
decadence while the Sala
del Doge will make you feel
like a duke with its swathes
of scarlet boldness.
The bella vista one: For
gorgeous city views, the
terrace at Al Ponte Antico
is a fantastic place to have
a drink while gazing at the
Grand Canal and the Rialto.
Its central location also
means that some of the
best sights in Venice are
within walking distance.
THE BOOKSTORE:
LIBRERIA ACQUA
ALTA Here, books fill
old gondolas, canoes,
bathtubs and barrels.
Encyclopaedias line the
walls to make an
intriguing staircase and
fluffy cats inhabit every
corner as if they rule the
place. This chaotic yet
charming book shop is
the city’s best-kept secret
and a dream come true
for bargain hunters due to
its second-hand literary
treasures.
THE LIBRARY: BIBLIOTECA
NAZIONALE MARCIANA
Considered one of the
oldest and most stunning
libraries in Italy, this
architectural beauty
is home to the largest
classical texts collections
in the world, including
manuscripts, incunabula,
and works printed between
1500 and 1600.
worldtravellermagazine.com 49

THE LONG WEEKEND
Get crafty
Take a piece of the city
back home
From top to bottom:
A bowl of squid ink pasta,
decorative Venetian masks,
St Mark's Campanile
Venetian masks
A tradition that dates back
thousands of years, maskmaking
is an integral part
of the city’s culture. Avoid
paying over the odds at
touristy souvenir shops and
opt for making one yourself
at Ca’Macana – the family
owned store is known for
creating the masks that
appeared in the film Eyes
Wide Shut. camacana.com
Murano glass
Watching a Murano glass
sculpture come to life
is as fascinating as its
translucent beauty, and the
island of Murano is the only
place on the planet that
produces these coveted
pieces of art. Get an insider
ALL IN GOOD TASTE
Discover the lagoon city's hidden food haunts
The Venetian version
of tapas, Cicchetti is a
must-try while in Venice.
These traditional bites,
served on small plates
designed to share, will
have your taste buds
shouting “mamma
mia!” Enjoy it the local
way at Cantina Do
Mori, but don’t expect
to be seated; you’ll
have to eat it like the
locals do – standing
up. For lunch, head to
Ristorante Upupa and
be sure to order their
famous Spaghetti al
Nero di Seppia. The
distinctive pasta dish
will win you over with
its delicious flavour and
charcoal black colour
(courtesy of the squid
ink). End the evening at
one of the oldest cafés
in Europe, Caffè Florian
(caffeflorian.com). Having
opened its doors in
1720, it exudes old-world
charm and boasts a
stunning outdoor terrace
on St Mark's Square.
look at different glass
techniques thanks to the
dedicated tours on offer at
Mazzega Glass Factory.
Burano lace
It’s said that King Louis XIV
of France wore an original
Burano lace collar on the
day of his coronation.
Suffice to say, it's an
artwork in its own right. But
you don’t need to go all
the way to Burano Island to
get these lovely crafts, as
the famous Il Merletto shop
in Venice displays a wide
selection of original work.
UP AND AWAY
To get a thorough understanding of how beautiful
this city is, you need to get on top of it. Not only
does the St Mark's Campanile offer a breathtaking
view of the Venetian Lagoon, it’s also home to one
of the largest bells in the city, la Marangona. Just
a short boat-ride away, San Giorgio Maggiore
is a defining point on the Venice skyline, and its
unrivalled panoramic views of the city makes it
unlike any other. Hidden on a quiet street in the
bustling tourist centre of St. Mark’s Square, Scala
Contarini del Bovolo is instantly recognisable due
to its snail's shell-like spiral staircase. Ascend the
tower's twisting steps, pausing to look at the views
revealed at every twist and turn. Once you reach the
top, you’ll be awed by the picturesque view.
worldtravellermagazine.com 51

THE LONG WEEKEND
UNDER A BRIDGE
Each with its own story, Venetian bridges
unveil the city's deep-seated history
From top: Bridge of
Sighs; St. Mark's Square
Legend has it that lovers who kiss on a gondola at
sunset under the Ponte dei Sospiri will be granted
eternal love and happiness. Designed by Italian
architect Antonio Contino, the bridge connects the
Doge's Palace to the city’s historic prisons. It’s said
that prisoners, on their way to incarnation, got to
take one last peek at the city through the bridge’s
tiny gaps. Overcome with its beauty, it prompted
them to sigh, hence its moniker: the Bridge of Sighs.
One of the last remaining Venetian bridges
without guardrails, Ponte Chiodo in the Cannaregio
neighbourhood is the place to get your thrills of the
day. If you’re feeling courageous, you can capture
that coveted Instagram shot of your legs dangling
over the edge.
One of only four bridges to span the Grand Canal,
Ponte dell'Accademia charms with its peaceful
ambience and unique views of the city. Something
of an undiscovered gem, the bridge packs less
crowds than the city’s main attraction, the Rialto
Bridge, making it your ideal sunset destination.
ask a local
BRICK IN
THE WALL
Carlo Bettuolo,
destination wedding
photographer,
shares her his top
tips for exploring
the city
Get lost in Castello, the oldest district
in the city, and admire the architectural
details of buildings steeped in more than
eight centuries of history. For the perfect
Instagram shot, head to San Moisè Bridge
– its colourful background will ensure your
feed pops. For anyone visiting for the first
time, I always recommend the guided tour
of Teatro la Fenice, which is one of the
most beautiful opera houses in the world.
The city is brimming over with first-class
dining venues but my absolute favourite
is Algiubagió. Be seated at a table on the
wooden platform overlooking the lagoon
and tuck into delicious Venetian staples
and fresh seafood dishes. The restaurant's
stunning views will stay with you long after
you leave.
From exquisite marble
palaces to hidden
gems on the Grand
Canal, there are
numerous architectural
marvels to discover.
St Mark's Basilica
(basilicasanmarco.it)
is hard to miss with its
luminous gold mosaics
and profusion of grand
domes. Dating back
to the 11th century, the
Venetian cathedral is
a leading example of
Byzantine architecture.
A short walk away
is Doge's Palace
(palazzoducale.
visitmuve.it), a gothic
masterpiece that is the
formerly the seat of
Venetian government.
Its interior is equally
stunning with highlights
including the Sala del
Maggior Consiglio (the
grand council hall) and
Sansovino’s golden
stairway, Scala d’Oro.
If you tire of
pounding the
pavements, why not
give in to the classic
tourist bucket-list
experience of a
gondola tour along
the canals. Splash out
on a private guide
who can steer you
past all the top sites
and into the smaller,
more tranquil canals
that offer a glimpse of
everyday city life.
Words: Habiba Azab
52 worldtravellermagazine.com

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The suite life
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From its gilded domes to its
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it comes as no surprise that this
exclusive hotel counts royalty among
its regular guests. A grand example of
Arabian hospitality, this iconic hotel is
a landmark in its own right. It boasts
over 200 spacious rooms decorated
with regal furnishings, a private
beach, an auditorium that regularly
plays host to high-brow concerts and
events, and an impressive line-up of
restaurants, including Martabaan by
Hemant Oberoi.
2Fairmont Bab Al Bahr
Offering a picture-perfect vista
of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque,
this five-star beachfront hotel calls
design buffs with its architecturally
stunning glass exterior that's bathed
in blue light at night. Elegantly
decorated rooms and suites, soaking
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3
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
Luxury permeates every aspect
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To find out more, visit visitabudhabi.ae
Photo: Emirates Palace
54 worldtravellermagazine.com

Island
Lore
Mysterious coconuts, voodoo
dolls and otherworldly
beaches, Sophia Dyer is
spellbound by the Seychelles
56 worldtravellermagazine.com

WEEKENDS
Legend has it that a traveller who
eats from the breadfruit tree
while in the Seychelles is fated to
return to its sandy shores. A melting
pot of people and cultures, it only
seems right that the Creole islands
are brimming with local legends,
myths and folklore. A self-confessed
purveyor of all things mystic, it was
the islands ‘more than meets the
eye’ appeal that lured me, far more
than just its postcard scenes.
First on my numinous pursuit was
unearthing the mysterious coco de
mer, a distinct palm endemic to just
two of the 115 Seychellean islands.
Like something from prehistoric
fiction, the suggestively curvaceous
coconuts looked as if they belonged
in the imagination of a weary sailor
who had been out at sea for a number
of weeks before finally reaching dry
land. Yet here they were growing on
huge palms so tall they seemingly
touched the grey clouds, which were
drooping low, heavy with rain.
“People used to think the coco
de mer trees grew in a forest at the
bottom of the ocean, before the
coconuts fell upwards and washed
up on the beaches around the
Indian Ocean,” Leroy, my tour guide
explained with a wry smile. In the
1600s the huge shells that washed
up on shores were traded around the
Arabian Peninsula for vast sums of
money. Those who found the beached
husks in the Maldives however, were
ordered to hand them over to the
king or face the death penalty. It
wasn’t until British General Charles
Gordon, discovered the uninhabited
Seychelles isles in 1881 that the fate
of the plant was changed forever.
Taking one look at the mysteriously
shaped nut, Gordon declared that
he had found the original forbidden
fruit. Drawing the only plausible
conclusion, of course – that he had
stumbled upon the Garden of Eden.
Gordon’s revelation pleased the
local community and saw the coco
de mer become a protected species,
putting an end to the trading of the
fruit and introducing strict laws. Fast
forward to today and it’s the reason
why I came to be stood in Vallée de
Mai Nature Reserve on Praslin island.
One of the smallest UNESCO sites
in the world, it is fiercely guarded
by beefy security guards who patrol
the grounds to ensure there is no
untoward nut-nabbing, and quite
understandably too as they can
fetch up to $500. (Even if you could
sneak past the guards, I wouldn’t
recommend bagging one, as you
need an export license to get these
hefty nuts out of the country. Not to
mention, with the nuts weighing up
to 30kg, you’ll almost certainly be
over on your baggage allowance.)
Hawk-eyed guards aside, walking
among these ancient trees felt truly
special. Perhaps it had more to do
with my love of a good story than
the enigmatic palms themselves,
but I was almost certain I could feel
a subtle magic in the air here. Was
Gordon onto something after all?
Breaking the spell, I landed back in
the site's gift shop to pricey nuts
and the obligatory tourist tat.
Since Gordon’s discovery, the
African archipelagos have been
penned as ‘paradise on Earth’ and, like
its Indian Ocean counterparts, over
the years it has become synonymous
with honeymooners. The Seychelles,
fitting the seemingly mandatory white
sand beach bill, was the postnuptial
destination of choice of George and
Amal Clooney and the UK’s Duke
and Duchess of Cambridge. While I
Opposite page: Constance
Lemuria beach This page: An aerial
view of Constance Lemuria, Praslin
was on a solo pursuit, if the beaches
were good enough for the A-list, they
were surely good enough for me.
Known for being one of the nicest
stretches of sand in the Seychelles,
Anse Georgette was gothically
moody. The dark green foliage
surrounding the cove swayed
rhythmically in the breeze as the
ocean crashed into the rocks with
a passionate force. Adding a hint
of mystery, an ethereal mist floated
down from the hills, evaporating
as soon as it touched the water.
Somewhat naïve to the powers
of the ocean, I ran straight in as
the clouds broke above me, at last
relenting their pent-up rain with great
catharsis. After a few exhales, the
powerful waves threw me back onto
the shore, to which I abided willingly.
Settling down onto the sand, the
rain began to ease and eventually
the sun peaked through the clouds
in otherworldly defiance. But what
was extra special about this beach
was that, bar myself and a few other
travellers huddled under the trees,
it was completely empty. This was
probably due to the fact that getting
here can be an exercise (involving
a boat and hike). That is unless, like
me, you are staying at Constance
Lemuria, which boasts the beach
as part of its grounds. Having just
105 rooms and employing 402 staff
worldtravellermagazine.com 57

Lemuria, earns the right to brand
itself as an exclusive luxury resort.
Not only providing unparalleled levels
of service (thanks to the staff to
guest ratio), the resort is also home
to nesting hawksbill turtles and a
host of five-star dining experiences.
Pulling up to the hotel’s entrance,
most of the passengers in my car
were charmed by the pretty view of
Lemuria’s 18-hole golf course – its
fairways sparkling with dew. But
to my golf-ignorant self, there was
something far more interesting to
the right. Just before the gates of
the hotel, standing in solitude, was
a solemn grey-hued bungalow.
Its cracked walls and missing
windows giving it an eerie feel, as
if it was abandoned either halfway
through a remodel or demolition.
While pondering the reason it
stood neglected, I met the eye of a
disembodied dolls head pierced by
a stick. One of its eyes was sharply
open and seemingly glaring at mine,
while the other seemed to droop
shut in disdain. Before I could react,
the voodoo-esque doll was out
of sight, as we zoomed through
the gates and were hurtled up the
winding paths to reach the lobby.
Large pillar candles lined the path
to the grand, mahogany doors,
which remained firmly shut until the
staff shuffled into position. With
the loud striking of a gong, the
heavy doors were swung open as
the smiley team chorused in unison,
“welcome to paradise”. And as
twee as it may sound, there was no
denying that the vista ahead was
nothing short of archetypal utopia.
The indoor-outdoor lobby,
surrounded by dense foliage,
had kestrels flying overhead and
peacocks roaming on nearby
rocks. It overlooked the swimming
pool, before the view seductively
unfolded down to the white sand
beach and ocean beyond.
“According to folklore, the island of
Lemuria was where people and nature
lived in perfect harmony before it sank
to the bottom of the Indian Ocean. In
keeping with the legend, we create a
balance between nature and humans
at the resort,” the friendly host,
‘
THE DARK
GREEN FOLIAGE
SURROUNDING
THE COVE
SWAYED
RHYMICALLY IN
THE BREEZE
’
Alyona, explained as she showed me
to my room. Attesting this, Constance
Lemuria was the first resort in the
Seychelles to receive a Green Globe
award and continues to be one of the
leaders for environmental practice
among the neighbouring resorts and
the local community. A welcome
sight for my ‘save the planet’ attuned
eyes, the hotel's green initiatives
meant reusable glass bottles of water
replaced their plastic equivalents in my
suite. Helping myself to a thoughtfully
placed, handcrafted dark chocolate,
my stomach began to rumble.
Lemuria’s creole influenced
restaurant, The Nest, produced
creatively displayed yet hefty
portioned and richly flavoursome
dishes. The first course appeared to
be an elegantly constructed melon
salad. However, a few bites in and
I was pleasantly surprised by the
white fruit’s uncharacteristically
moreish, carbohydrate-rich taste. It
turned out that the incognito fruit
was, in fact, breadfruit. Breadfruit
trees (suitably named after the fruit’s
starchy consistency) were brought
to the Seychelles along with a host
of goods and folklore from around
the globe by the archipelago’s first
settlers. And much like my appetite
for the lore, I couldn't help but dig
into a second serving of the fruit.
Another fine moment for my taste
buds came a couple of days later while
sunning myself on a beach in Mahé.
With an expert whack of a knife, the
coconut stall man handed me a green
nut from which the nectar was now
mine to slurp. Sipping away merrily, I
watched local children play football
to a soundtrack of hip-hop classics
being pumped out from a Bluetooth
speaker. A stark contrast from the
quiet beaches of Praslin, Mahé’s
beaches were, much to my enjoyment,
abuzz with life. Quite rightly so, all
the beaches in the Seychelles are
open to the public, so here on the
main island it is commonplace to be
milling among the locals even inside
the confines of your five-star resort.
This resort, named Ephelia, another
of Constance’s hotels, spans over
120-hectares of land and caters mainly
to families (or couples who easily
bore of one another) with a solid line
up of activities. Opting for a spot of
snorkelling one afternoon, I headed
to the beach, passing the vibrant
red hibiscus trees that lined the path
in an orderly fashion. By this point,
feeling suitably settled into the island
spirit, I picked a fresh flower from the
ground and placed it behind my ear.
“Do you know what that means?”,
the watersports shack assistant asked
me, pointing to the flower in my hair.
“Err…” I mustered while wracking
my mind for hibiscus trivia.
“No,” I concluded.
“It means you’re open to meeting
someone special,” he laughed. And
while this was not on my atoll agenda,
not one for abiding to convention, I
decided to leave the flower in my hair
as I waddled into the ocean, flippers
on feet, snorkel in hand. As I swam
beside the entire cast of Finding
Nemo, apart from Nemo (aptly) the
hibiscus flower floated into the ocean
along with the last of the Seychelles
folklore I had time to uncover.
When my five nights on the Creole
isles drew to a close, I had gotten
more than I bargained for, with an
awakened lust for island living that
made returning to the city seem near
impossible. The Seychelles is not only
profoundly beautiful, but vivaciously
full of life and grit. And if you’re
mystically minded, the island’s deeprooted
legends are the gifts that keep
on giving. Days later as I sit dreaming
up ways to return to the Seychelles, I
wonder if perhaps there’s something
in that breadfruit legend after all.
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
58 worldtravellermagazine.com

WEEKENDS
Clockwise from left: A wild
peacock; an aerial view of
Constance Ephelia in Mahé, children
play on a Seychelles beach; the
coco de mer nuts in Praslin
worldtravellermagazine.com 59

WORLD TRAVELLER X RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL DUBAI
STAYCATION
Renaissance Downtown Hotel Dubai
Situated along the Dubai Water Canal, this showstopper wows with its A-list style luxury
THE ROOMS & SUITES
From the floor-to-ceiling gold chains
to the art installations lining the
corridors, Art Deco vibes prevail here –
a look that's reflected in all the hotel's
rooms and suites. Relax in style in
either the Vice Presidential Suite or
the Presidential Suite, each offering
their own set of luxuries including a
complimentary breakfast in bed, butler
service and club lounge access.
THE FOOD
Boasting not one, but two, in-house
celebrity chef-led restaurants, this is a
foodie's dream destination. Morimoto
Dubai puts you right in the middle of the
action with a live teppanyaki counter
that displays the Iron Chefs' trademark
culinary style. BASTA! by David Myers
serves up a little piece of Italy with each
dish, while Bhar will spice up your palate
with its delectable Arabian fare.
THE ACTIVITIES
When the clock strikes five, Evenings at
Renaissance kicks off, inviting guests to
sip signature drinks over a programme of
interesting events. If you're not in a social
mood, indulge yourself to a relaxing
massage while soaking up the panoramic
views of the city at Six Senses Spa. With
six different treatment suites, each
dedicated to a different sense, you'll leave
in a haze of peace and tranquillity.
To find out more, call +971 4 512 5554 or renaissancedowntowndubai.com
60 worldtravellermagazine.com

ISN’T IT JUST SUITE TO BE HERE AT RENDXB?
Rediscover luxury in one of our indigenously designed suites while
overlooking Dubai’s unique views.
For more information visit renaissancedowntowndubai.com
or email rendxb.sales@renhotels.com
RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI
Marasi Drive Business Bay Dubai PO Box 191984 United Arab Emirates. t: +971.4.512.5555

WORLD TRAVELLER X ADDRESS SKY VIEW
STAYCATION
Address Sky View
This sleek new property places you at the heart of bustling Downtown Dubai
THE ROOMS & SUITES
With an exclusive address on Sheikh
Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard, this
luxury hotel stands proud with its duo
of glistening skyscrapers connected by
a sky bridge. Floor-to-ceiling windows
offer stunning views of the city skyline
towards the Arabian Gulf. Book yourself
into a Club Room Burj View for coveted
Burj Khalifa vistas and a front row
seat to The Dubai Fountain.
THE FOOD
Tuck into an array of delicious
platters that put a refreshing twist on
international cuisine at The Restaurant.
Its cosy ambience, personalised service
and warm décor will make you feel right
at home. Meanwhile, the resort's pool
lounge, Deck TOO, offers the perfect
excuse to nibble at an expertly curated
menu of antipasti and aperitivo while
admiring the marvellous cityscape.
THE ACTIVITIES
The showstopper here is the picturesque
rooftop infinity pool, which is sure to
blow up your Instagram. Swim a lap, grab
a refreshing drink from the pool bar and
soak up the views. Better yet, stop by The
Spa for a pampering session. Located
on the 54 th floor, choose from a range
of soothing treatments and feel your
tension ease away as Dubai's glittering
skyline lulls you to a serene bliss.
To find out more, call +971 4 873 8888 or visit addresshotels.com
62 worldtravellermagazine.com

YOUR stage among the stars,
Address Sky View, a panoramic city viewpoint, presents
spectacular vistas of Dubai’s finest sights. Every luxury hotel
room and suite, every enthralling dining experience, and every
event space lifts you to heights inspired by the Sky Deck
shimmering under the stars. Welcome to your stage in the sky.
Discover a marvellous new viewpoint with #ADHskyview
BOOK NOW
TOLL FREE (UAE) 800 ADDRESS
ADDRESSHOTELS.COM

WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI
STAYCATION
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
Tailor-made luxury meets exquisite experiences at this palatial retreat
THE ROOMS & SUITES
Stay close to all the action as the Formula
1 World Championship roars its way
back to the city this month. After an
exhilarating day of Grand Prix action,
retire to the comfort of your Superior
Room, or spacious suite, and enjoy the
royal treatment with around-the-clock
butler service. Guests also receive access
to Nation Riviera Beach Club and a
complimentary breakfast at The Terrace.
THE FOOD
Delve into a delicious spread of local
delicacies while being suspended 255
metres up in the air on the highest
active helipad in the Middle East.
Making a grand return this month (on 9
and 16 Nov), the Helipad Sunset Supper
invites 20 lucky guests to dine amongst
the clouds, enjoy live performances and
take in some of the most sensational
views the city has to offer.
THE ACTIVITIES
Introducing a new look and feel, Nation
Riviera Beach Club has refreshed
its main pool with an exciting new
design that highlights the hotel's
scenic landscape. Perfect the art of
relaxation and soak up the sun in your
private cabana, do a few laps in the
temperature-controlled swimming
pool or enjoy a walk on the pristine
private stretch of white sand.
To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or stregisabudhabi.com
64 worldtravellermagazine.com

Abu Dhabi’s Finest Urban Resort
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi soars to new heights of splendor and service beyond
expectation. Located at the vibrant heart of Abu Dhabi, you will be transferred
through a luxurious underpass to a 200 metre stretch of pristine beach, overlooking
the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf and the newly renovated Nation Riviera Pool.
Enjoy the exquisite service of a truly unique experience at the Nation Riviera Beach
Club and the finest address in the city.
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com
©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide.
@stregishotels

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL
STAYCATION
Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel
English charm is the hallmark of this Palm Jumeirah hotel
THE ROOMS & SUITES
Here, every detail has been
carefully thought out to perfect the
quintessentially British style – from
the checkerboard-tiled floors lining the
lobby to the Floris amenities in all the
guestrooms. If you're looking for a home
away from home, consider a studio or
an apartment where you'll drift off to
the sound of the sea and wake up to the
dreamy views of the Arabian Gulf.
THE FOOD
Order it shaken, not stirred at Dukes
bar, where expert mixologists fix you
signature drinks from a tableside trolley.
Meanwhile, Great British Restaurant
serves modern British fare that tastes
as good as it looks. If you're in the mood
for something spicy, Khyber's flavourpacked
dishes stand out, with highlights
including the tandoor-cooked baby lamb
leg and green masala pomfret.
THE ACTIVITIES
Swim a lap or sit back and enjoy a
refreshing drink by the infinity pool
that blends seamlessly with the city's
glittering skyline. The Dukesy Kids' club
will keep your little ones occupied while
you sweat out your daily cardio at the
fitness studio. Later, glam up at the hair
and beauty salon for an evening out.
With many of the city's top attractions
nearby, the City of Gold awaits discovery.
To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or royalhideaway.com
66 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA
Say “I do”
Capturing the romance and tranquillity of the desert, Bab Al Shams
Desert Resort & Spa will ensure your special day is picture-perfect
Tucked away in Dubai’s majestic
rolling dunes, Bab Al Shams
Desert Resort & Spa is an
Arabian Nights fantasy plucked from
your imagination and a coveted location
for a destination wedding. Whether
you're dreaming of an intimate
ceremony or a lively celebration
surrounded by family and friends,
this palatial resort will turn your
wedding dreams into reality. Here’s
the pick of our favourite venues…
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Exchange vows amid the natural
wonders of the desert at Sunset Point.
The alfresco venue offers a simple
setting that showcases the stunning
surroundings and can hold up to
240 of your nearest and dearest. You
could also opt for the Masala Rooftop
Lounge, which is ideal for star-lit
ceremonies, with its panoramic view
of the resort that's best enjoyed while
sitting down to a sumptuous feast.
Meanwhile, couples who want to go
all out with the invitations should
book the Arena. True to its name, the
venue sprawls over 20,000 square
metres and can fit up to 6,000 guests.
AN INTIMATE AFFAIR
Adorned with lush foliage, Al Shurouq
and the Garden Café offers total privacy
with its Arabesque furnishings, elegant
floral centerpieces and personalised
details. Alternatively, contemporary
elegance meets old-world charm at Le
Dune, while Falcon Courtyard beckons
hopeless romantics with its oriental
appeal and secluded setting that
accommodates a modest 30 guests.
A CULTURAL TWIST
Fascinate your guests by holding
your ceremony at the unique setting
of Al Hadheerah Restaurant. With
a traditional tanoura and belly
dancing performances, as well
as a live Arabian band, you'll have
everyone on their feet in minutes.
If you’re seeking something more
private, Al Hadheerah Rooftop can
accommodate up to 70 guests and
offers a serene ambiance with its
sweeping views of the Arabian desert.
From crafting colourful floral
arrangements to creating a bespoke
wedding cake and menu, the resort
offers an array of services and packages
to make your big day unforgettable.
Find out more at babalshams.com
Sunset Point
68 worldtravellermagazine.com
worldtravellermagazine.com 68

RARE IS REAL
Nestled among the rolling dunes of Dubai, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is a haven of rustic charm,
luxurious Arabian hospitality, benchmark-setting facilities and a captivating desert environment.
This oasis of pure indulgence offers guests an array of sumptuous dining experiences
from Italy to India and the Middle East, desert activities including falconry,
camel riding and archery, rejuvenating therapies at the award-winning Satori Spa
as well as facilities designed to ensure that every moment is one to be cherished for years to come.
babalshams.com
/babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel
DESERT RESORT & SPA - DUBAI

WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MERIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT
STAYCATION
Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort
Family-friendly fun abounds at this action-packed reatreat
THE ROOMS & SUITES
Nestled between the Hajar Mountains
and the glistening Indian Ocean, this
coastal resort is all about family-fun with
great deals on offer. Watch the sun set
from your sea facing room with your little
munchkins in tow (two children below 12
years old can stay for free). After a good
night's sleep, start your day fresh and tuck
into a delectable breakfast of champions
(rates are inclusive of breakfast).
THE FOOD
Embark on a culinary journey and relish
the taste of different world cuisines at
any of the hotel's eight restaurants and
bars. East-meets-West signature recipes
fill Views with aromas that are sure to
make your mouth water. Alternatively, lap
up the cool sea breeze as Gonu serves up
seafood fresh from the ocean. Better yet,
head southeast and delight in the Asian
flavours of Thai Indian fare at Taste.
THE ACTIVITIES
Unleash your wild side and step up to
the Al Aqah Challenge, the first ever
obstacle rope course on the East Coast.
Whether ziplining, climbing or abseiling,
it's going be a tough one to crack so bring
your A game. Meanwhile, beach lovers
can simply lounge on the hotel's private
stretch of sand or take a dive into the
crystal waters of the Arabian Gulf to
unveil a world of marine wonders.
To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com
70 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES
STAYCATION
Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites
For a longer stay, make yourself at home in a stylish suite overlooking Dubai Marina
THE ROOMS & SUITES
If you're planning on staying in Dubai
for a while, or simply appreciate the
convenience of having your own kitchen,
the stylish suites at this four-star
property in Dubai Marina are just the
ticket. There are one-, two- and threebedroom
suites available, each featuring
a modern kitchen and a sleek marble
bathroom with an oversized tub. Room
service is available around the clock.
THE FOOD
Jump-start your day with a delectable
menu of international dishes at Counter
Culture Café, which also offers free Wi-Fi
so you can stay well connected to the
wider world. For hearty British fare with
a twist, The Croft is the place to go. On
the 52nd floor, Observatory Bar & Grill is
where you should head for classic dishes
and crafted drinks, with panoramic views
of the waterfront.
THE ACTIVITIES
Your fitness regime needn't suffer, as all
guests enjoy access to the fitness centre.
When you want to unwind, head to Saray
Spa, which offers a range of pampering
treatments, such as the signature Saray
Arabic Coffee Awakener, which includes
a body scrub, mask and massage. Get out
and explore Dubai, including Jumeirah
Beach Residence and Dubai Media City,
which are just a short stroll away.
To find out more, call +971 4 319 4000 or visit marriottharbourdubaidining.com
72 worldtravellermagazine.com

CREATE
SPECIAL
MOMENTS
WITH US.
Standing tall in the heart of
Dubai Marina, featuring
incomparable panoramic views
of the city, combine the best
of all worlds with luxurious
accommodation, three
contemporary dining
destinations and a blissful
caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.
DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES
KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET
DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE
T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM
Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites
@marriottharbour

1
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worldtravellermagazine.com 75

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76 worldtravellermagazine.com

THROUGH
THE LENS
Great Ocean Road,
Australia
I've always dreamt of visiting
Australia with my family one
day, to buy a Jeep, get out on the
open road and discover what this
beautiful country has to offer. So
when my husband and I decided
to travel full time, we knew it was
the right moment to fulfil our
fantasy. When we drove down
this particular road, I just knew
it would look stunning from
above. We immediately pulled
over, took out the drone and fired
that baby up in the sky. I asked my
husband to keep driving the Jeep
up and down the road a few times
while I tried to capture its true
beauty. I love the effect of the four
layers: crashing blue waves, rocky
coastline, green mountains and
the winding road.
Travel and photography fan
Heleen Van Assche loves to
travel because: "It makes us
richer in every possible way."
Follow her at @the_global_
wizards, theglobalwizards.com
EMAIL US YOUR BEST
TRAVEL PHOTOS
in high-res jpeg format, along
with the stories behind them to
habiba@hotmedia.me and you
may end up being featured
on this page
78 worldtravellermagazine.com

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A two-night stay for two at JA The
Resort in Dubai
This five-star beachfront hideaway (Dubai's largest resort) could be yours for
two nights on a bed and breakfast basis. With an 800-metre stretch of golden
sand, a world-class golf course, horseback riding and watersports aplenty on
offer, plus lots more, it's a coveted holiday spot for families. It's home to three
properties – JA Beach Hotel, JA Palm Tree Court and JA Lake View Hotel – with
stand-out restaurants, including Kinara by Vikas Khanna. To find out more and
to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win. (Terms & conditions apply).
TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website,
inspire your next trip…
1The Knowledge.
Read our handy
how-tos, from
getting to grips with
travel insurance to
helping kids beat jet
lag, and more.
2Staycations.
Take a peek
inside these top
hotels and resorts on
your doorstep, and
then book your next
mini break.
3Insider guides.
Check out our
in-the-know
travel edits of some
of the most popular
holiday destinations
on our radar.
worldtravellermagazine.com 79

Suite dreams
Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite
that has a character and style all of its own
CORNER JUNIOR SUITE
Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, Switzerland
Be in the pink inside this rose-tinted suite, which teams its distinctive décor with a panoramic
view of Lake St. Moritz and the snow-capped Swiss Alps. Located on the fifth floor of this
boutique hotel, the 75-square-metre suite features a corner sofa under the pitch of the roof,
providing a cosy spot in which to unwind. Plus, with its luxurious dressing room and walk-in
wardrobe, this elegant hideaway is ideal for fashion mavens in search of the perfect fit.
80 worldtravellermagazine.com

Inspiration. Expertly crafted.
Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the
Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience.
The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants
and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and
17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular
Meeting Spaces.
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai
jwmarriott.com/DXBJW
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com