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STUDIO ERICK SAILLET<br />
in-law of the Ducasse family, who owned<br />
the vineyard, he took over the unloved<br />
terrain in 1852, draining and renovating the<br />
land and adding the château building that<br />
still stands today.<br />
Now one of only four châteaux at the<br />
Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé<br />
“A” level in the local appellation system,<br />
the Cheval Blanc we savor today is down to<br />
the work of the LVMH chairman Bernard<br />
Arnault and the late Belgian billionaire<br />
Albert Frère, who together acquired the<br />
vineyard in the late 1990s.<br />
Architect Christian de Portzamparc<br />
designed a new cellar, and 2011 saw the<br />
first vintage made in it, equipped with 52<br />
concrete vats to ferment every single plot of<br />
the estate.<br />
When it comes to future plans, however,<br />
Clouet insists that the relentless march of<br />
progress isn’t a beat that suits this part of<br />
Bordeaux. “There is no big project or change<br />
that would make Cheval Blanc something<br />
that will be completely different tomorrow,”<br />
he says. “Our work is a work of preservation,<br />
continuity, and improvement in a framework<br />
that is always the same.”<br />
The modern world may have made a small<br />
mark on the ancient estate, as Clouet admits<br />
in relation to the cellar, but he insists the<br />
pleasure of a glass of Cheval Blanc is all but<br />
timeless. “There are 1,000 ways to enjoy it,”<br />
he laughs. “For me, the best way to see Cheval<br />
Blanc is to be at the heart of the estate, at<br />
the end of the summer, in September when<br />
the grapes are ripe, with all the vineyards<br />
around you and to drink a Cheval Blanc glass<br />
at Cheval Blanc – there is no better place.”<br />
And it is from this noble terroir where many<br />
more significant vintages, perhaps even those<br />
to eclipse the ’47, are sure to be produced.<br />
chateau-cheval-blanc.com<br />
Christian de<br />
Portzamparc’s modern<br />
design for the Cheval<br />
Blanc winery<br />
Bordeaux Airport: 32miles/52km<br />
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