Clockwise from top left: The Álvaro Siza-designed Casa de Chá da Boa Nova; boutique hotel Armazém’s lobby; the Douro River winds its way through the valley; Vinum restaurant at Graham’s winery 56 NetJets
urban primer The newest places tick all the boxes, from brunch spots and cocktail bars to clean-eating joints © CASA DE CHÁ DA BOA NOVA, ANTONIO CHAVES, ANTÓNIO PEDROSA/4-SEE/LAIF, © VINUM RESTAURANT & WINE BAR its new visitor center in an historic lodge; GRAHAM’S (grahams-port.com) now has an excellent winery restaurant, Vinum; and the upcoming World of Wine from TAYLOR’S (taylor.pt), which commandeers a number of historic warehouses for a wine-themed culture center along the lines of Bordeaux’s Cité du Vin, may prove to be a game-changer for this sleepy quartier. If top-shelf hotels in Porto were once thin on the ground, nowadays the visitor seeking splendor is spoilt for choice. A decade of openings has left a high watermark in the PALÁCIO DE FREIXO (pousadapalaciodofreixo.com), a fabulous restoration of an 18th-century mansion on the riverbank, the blueprint of which cunningly factors in the early-industrial flour mill next door; and THE YEATMAN (the-yeatman-hotel. com), in the wine district of Gaia, a sumptuous property that put oenological tourism firmly on the city’s agenda. Smart townhouse hotels and boutique boltholes have multiplied in the last five years, notable examples being TOREL AVANTGARDE (torelboutiques.com), ARMAZÉM (armazemluxuryhousing.com) and PESTANA PORTO – A BRASILEIRA (pestanacollection.com), a new arrival from the Pestana group incorporating the century-old and now resplendent A Brasileira café. But the bigger excitements, it has to be said, are at the top end of things: Porto’s chattering classes have been much exercised by the new MONUMENTAL PALACE (maison-albarhotels-le-monumental-palace.com) on Avenida dos Aliados—a formerly tatty 1920s Grand Hotel whose Art Deco stylings have been stunningly repointed by local design studio Oitoemponto. Porto may be the HQ of a world-class wine, but the city could never have been described as a gastronomic hub. Until its recent boom, the pleasures of the portuense table were to be found mainly in the city’s down-home repertoire of salt cod á Gomes de Sá, octopus rice and the famous sandwichin-sauce the francesinha, preferably devoured in an old-fashioned cookhouse down by the river. The newfound revolution in Porto restaurants has changed all that. Chefs of renown have disembarked in number, most notably José Avillez, possessor of a selection of locales in Lisbon, whose CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ (cantinhodoavillez.pt) on Rua Mouzinho da Silveira takes laid-back Iberian snacking to new heights of deliciousness. Elsewhere, Ricardo Costa holds one of northern Portugal’s few Michelin stars at The Yeatman and Rui Paula showcases his fresh New Portuguese cooking at DOP (doprestaurante.pt) and at the CASA DE CHÁ DA BOA NOVA (casadechadaboanova.pt). (The latter, a beachside tea house-cum-gastro destination up the coast in Leça, is an early masterpiece by genial Porto architect Álvaro Siza and worth a visit for the building alone.) Meanwhile, a new batch of talented younger chefs is cooking up a storm at gastro-bistros O PAPARICO (opaparico.com), BARTOLOMEU (bartolomeu.com.pt), OFICINA (oficinaporto. com) and MISTU (mistu.pt). Apart from alta cozinha per se, the newest Porto places tick all the boxes of international urban fashion, from brunch spots and cocktail bars to clean-eating joints—but the best of the bunch are original and striking. Between the Clérigos Tower and the riverside Ribeira, it can seem that every other renovated, tile- 57 NetJets