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NETJETS US VOLUME 9 2019

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EDUCATION FIRST<br />

Improving the world<br />

one school at a time<br />

PORTO NOW<br />

Portugal’s second city is<br />

thriving like never before<br />

HORSE PLAY<br />

Inside the world’s leading<br />

equestrian circuit<br />

TIME AND DATE<br />

The artistry of perpetual<br />

calendar watches<br />

A CERTAIN STYLE<br />

In conversation with<br />

Dolce & Gabbana


taking off<br />

WELCOME TO THE INAUGURAL<br />

EDITION OF <strong>NETJETS</strong>, THE<br />

MAGAZINE A JOURNAL OF<br />

ELEGANCE AND ELOQUENCE<br />

FOR OUR <strong>NETJETS</strong> OWNERS<br />

ACROSS THE U.S.<br />

In creating this quarterly title, we aim to bring you a curated<br />

assembly of articles, information, and trend-based<br />

communications covering travel and lifestyle, wine and<br />

gastronomy, philanthropy and the arts—and everything in<br />

between.<br />

As you will find in the pages that follow, these pieces are<br />

complemented by the latest news and happenings from the<br />

world of NetJets and beyond.<br />

In this launch title, we reference the ancient and eyecatching<br />

volcanic topology of Utah’s Millard County, our cover<br />

star courtesy of Daily Overview, with a comprehensive look at<br />

everything new and exciting from the American West.<br />

There are, of course, many more transportive features<br />

herein as well as an exclusive interview with NetJets Owners<br />

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.<br />

As the dynamic Italian designer duo put it, “We love to travel;<br />

it inspires us and makes us dream.” We not only hope you<br />

derive the same contentment wherever you are traveling with<br />

NetJets but we also hope this journal enlivens and enhances<br />

your experience flying with us.<br />

– All of Us at NetJets<br />

This symbol throughout the magazine denotes the nearest airport served<br />

by NetJets to the story’s subject, with approximate distances in miles and<br />

kilometres, where applicable.<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

AVRIL GROOM<br />

The fashion writer enjoyed a<br />

fascinating glimpse inside the<br />

world of Dolce & Gabbana<br />

when she talked to the everoriginal<br />

brand’s eponymous<br />

founders on their philosophy<br />

and their future for The<br />

Ultimate Freedom (page 28).<br />

LAURIE KAHLE<br />

In It’s Complicated<br />

(page 46), our horological<br />

correspondent examines<br />

the popularity of perpetual<br />

calendars and evaluates new<br />

iterations of the complication<br />

from renowned names<br />

in the world of watchmaking.<br />

LESLIE THRELKELD<br />

For years show jumping has<br />

revolved around the Olympics,<br />

but as the equestrian expert<br />

from North Carolina found out<br />

for When Elegance Meets<br />

Adrenaline (page 32) a new<br />

competition is raising the sport<br />

to greater heights.<br />

FLORIAN HOLZHERR<br />

The Munich native has long<br />

held a fascination for Marfa,<br />

a town transformed from<br />

a quiet backwater into a<br />

cultural centre in the 1970s,<br />

and which the photographer<br />

captured for Texas’s Art<br />

Paradise (page 74).<br />

LANIE GOODMAN<br />

The American writer who lives<br />

in the South of France traveled<br />

down the coast to discover<br />

how education is at the<br />

heart of all the inspiring work<br />

carried out by Monaco-based<br />

charity Mission Enfance<br />

for Children First (page 10).<br />

4 NetJets


6 NetJets<br />

Casa de Chá<br />

da Boa Nova,<br />

page 52


CONTENTS<br />

SCHOOLS IN FOC<strong>US</strong><br />

pages 10-12<br />

The Monaco-based charity<br />

Mission Enfance is making a<br />

difference through education<br />

BEYOND THE VINE<br />

pages 52-59<br />

Porto is emerging from the shadow<br />

of Lisbon with culinary credentials<br />

to match its eponymous wine<br />

IN THE NEWS<br />

pages 14-22<br />

The American West in focus,<br />

Keith McNally on Pastis reborn—<br />

and much more<br />

SLOVENIAN SENSATION<br />

pages 60-63<br />

Just across the border from Italy,<br />

Ana Roš is using local bounty to<br />

produce a singular dining destination<br />

<strong>NETJETS</strong> UPDATE<br />

pages 24-26<br />

Events, on-board updates,<br />

company-wide information,<br />

and a pilot in profile<br />

BEST OF BORDEAUX<br />

pages 64-65<br />

Château Cheval Blanc changed what<br />

people thought of Saint-Émilion wine–<br />

and it’s not finished yet<br />

DYNAMIC DUO<br />

pages 28-31<br />

Haute couture titans Domenico<br />

Dolce and Stefano Gabbana discuss<br />

their inspiration and philosophy<br />

A QUESTION OF REALITY<br />

pages 66-71<br />

The art world is embracing VR without<br />

being quite sure how—or whether—it<br />

will be collectible<br />

IN THE SADDLE<br />

pages 32-35<br />

Outside the Olympics, the Global<br />

Champions League is raising the<br />

profile of show jumping worldwide<br />

THE GOOD LIFE<br />

pages 72-73<br />

Uncovering the finest new spirits,<br />

books to whet the palate, and a<br />

high-class humidor<br />

CANARY CHIC<br />

pages 36-45<br />

This season’s fashions match<br />

the rugged landscapes on the<br />

scenic isle of Lanzarote<br />

MARFA IN PICTURES<br />

pages 74-81<br />

Contemporary works are juxtaposed<br />

with grand scenery in the cultural<br />

paradise in West Texas<br />

NELSON GARRIDO<br />

ULTIMATE ANACHRONISMS<br />

pages 46-50<br />

Perpetual calendars are high on<br />

the agenda for watch enthusiasts with<br />

an eye for complications<br />

THE LAST WORD<br />

page 82<br />

Paris Panthers rider Jennifer Gates<br />

on what she enjoys in life away<br />

from the equestrian arena<br />

7 NetJets


NetJets, The Magazine<br />

FALL <strong>2019</strong><br />

FRONT COVER<br />

A study in contrasts from Millard County, Utah:<br />

pivot agriculture fields fit snugly around<br />

an ancient lava outcrop (see page 14 for<br />

an update from the American West)<br />

Image by Daily Overview,<br />

source imagery: © Maxar Technologies<br />

NetJets, The Magazine is<br />

the official title for Owners<br />

of NetJets in the U.S.<br />

NetJets, The Magazine<br />

is published quarterly<br />

by JI Experience GmbH<br />

on behalf of NetJets<br />

Management Ltd.<br />

NetJets Inc.<br />

4151 Bridgeway Avenue,<br />

Columbus, Ohio 43219,<br />

<strong>US</strong>A<br />

netjets.com<br />

+1 614 338 8091<br />

EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />

Thomas Midulla<br />

EDITOR<br />

Farhad Heydari<br />

CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

Anne Plamann<br />

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Martin Kreuzer<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

Anja Eichinger<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

John McNamara<br />

SENIOR EDITOR<br />

Brian Noone<br />

STAFF WRITER<br />

Claudia Roelke<br />

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR<br />

Vicki Reeve<br />

WRITERS, CONTRIBUTORS,<br />

PHOTOGRAPHERS AND<br />

ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATORS<br />

Peita Blythe, Rob Crossan,<br />

Stephan Glathe, Lanie<br />

Goodman, Avril Groom,<br />

Florian Holzherr, Laurie Kahle,<br />

Bill Knott, Jen Murphy, Julian<br />

Rentzsch, Paul Richardson,<br />

Leslie Threlkeld<br />

Published by JI Experience GmbH<br />

Hanns-Seidel-Platz 5<br />

81737 Munich, Germany<br />

GROUP PUBLISHER<br />

Christian Schwalbach<br />

Michael Klotz (Associate)<br />

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR<br />

Albert Keller<br />

SEPARATION<br />

Jennifer Wiesner<br />

ADVERTISING SALES<br />

U.S.<br />

Jill Stone<br />

jstone@bluegroupmedia.com<br />

Copyright © <strong>2019</strong><br />

by JI Experience GmbH.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction in whole<br />

or in part without the<br />

express written permission<br />

of the publisher is strictly<br />

prohibited. The publisher,<br />

NetJets Management Ltd.,<br />

and its subsidiaries<br />

or affiliated companies<br />

assume no responsibility<br />

for errors and omissions<br />

and are not responsible<br />

for unsolicited<br />

manuscripts, photographs,<br />

or artwork. Views<br />

expressed are not<br />

necessarily those of<br />

the publisher or NetJets<br />

Management Ltd.<br />

Information is correct at<br />

time of going to press.<br />

Eric Davis<br />

edavis@bluegroupmedia.com<br />

EUROPE<br />

Katherine Galligan<br />

katherine@metropolist.co.uk<br />

Vishal Raguvanshi<br />

vishal@metropolist.co.uk<br />

8 NetJets


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Silver Moon. Arriving August 2020.<br />

For more information please contact your travel agent, call 1-877-352-7275 or visit silversea.com.


spotlight<br />

CHILDREN FIRST<br />

Monaco-based Mission Enfance is rebuilding<br />

conflict-torn places around the globe<br />

using the bricks and mortar of knowledge<br />

By Lanie Goodman<br />

10 NetJets


Imagine rows and rows of white tents, as<br />

far as the eye can see, side by side. Each<br />

may have ten to fifteen family members<br />

living together in the same space. It is<br />

their only world.”<br />

Domitille Lagourgue, Director of Mission<br />

Enfance, who has just returned from Iraq,<br />

is describing the multitudes of displaced<br />

refugees living on Iraqi soil, among them<br />

more than 16,000 in the camp of Sharya,<br />

in Iraqi Kurdistan. “They cannot remain in<br />

these camps indefinitely because their entire<br />

family structure is destabilized,” she says.<br />

“The father, who might be a farmer, loses his<br />

paternal authority, his role as the breadwinner.<br />

All he has is a meal ticket.”<br />

Which is why the French and Monégasque<br />

organization Mission Enfance has a deepseated<br />

commitment that goes beyond giving<br />

aid to devastated, war-torn areas. “Our<br />

leitmotif has always been rehabilitation. We<br />

Children at a<br />

Colombian school,<br />

that has benefitted<br />

from Mission<br />

Enfance’s aid<br />

encourage people to wait out the conflict<br />

instead of fleeing and try to help them return<br />

to the place where they were born,” says<br />

Lagourgue. “Of course, we can’t send villagers<br />

back to a dangerous place under bombardment.<br />

But once they’re able to return to their homes<br />

– which are often in very remote places – we<br />

give them access to food, medical treatment<br />

and, most importantly, we build schools.”<br />

Lagourgue, an engaging, energetic<br />

woman with lively eyes and mellifluous<br />

voice, sits behind a wooden desk piled with<br />

papers, notebooks, and Post-it Notes stuck<br />

to the computer screen. Here and there are<br />

framed photos of her with a team, visiting<br />

construction sites or talking to children.<br />

It is almost hard to imagine how so many<br />

complex international projects originate from<br />

this modest office, hidden away in Monaco’s<br />

modern district, Fontvieille.<br />

“School is a center of life, a place where<br />

a terrorized child, who may have lost his<br />

parents or his home, will be distracted. We try<br />

to open their minds and bring them beyond<br />

their suffering, so that they can experience<br />

their childhood.”<br />

The plight of refugees is, in fact, nothing<br />

new to Lagourgue. In 1986, along with<br />

her husband, Edouard, and their two small<br />

daughters, she moved from Paris to live for<br />

two years in Peshawar, Pakistan, near the<br />

Afghan border. “It was during the political<br />

unrest of the Soviet-Afghan war,” she<br />

explains. “At the time, we were based at the<br />

French humanitarian refugee camp staffed by<br />

organizations like Médecins Sans Frontières.<br />

We made incursions into Afghan territory,<br />

even though the borders were closed.”<br />

Working as a journalist for French<br />

publications including L’Express and La<br />

Croix, Lagourgue witnessed the migration of<br />

millions of Afghans who fled to Pakistan or<br />

Iran. “Every day, we saw caravans of camels<br />

with families, carrying all their belongings,”<br />

she recalls. “It was massive.”<br />

In 1991, she relocated to Monaco, teaming<br />

up with a Monégasque priest, Father Stéphane<br />

Aumonier, who co-founded Mission<br />

Enfance. “At the time, Prince Rainier III was<br />

looking to expand humanitarian associations.<br />

It gave us an opportunity to continue what<br />

we’d already begun in Afghanistan and to<br />

pursue an ideal that we believed in.”<br />

Combining this association with<br />

Lagourgue’s widespread network, the<br />

small-scale organization quickly achieved<br />

impressive results. To date, Mission Enfance<br />

helps children who would otherwise never<br />

have the possibility to attend school in places<br />

including Afghanistan, Armenia, Burkina<br />

Faso, Colombia, Iraqi Kurdistan, Laos,<br />

Lebanon, Syria, and Vietnam.<br />

In contrast with other humanitarian<br />

organizations with more substantial budgets,<br />

Mission Enfance focuses on projects in<br />

isolated areas in the desert or the countryside<br />

where larger NGOs don’t often venture.<br />

“With €1.5 million, we build ten new schools<br />

each year,” Lagourgue says. “In 28 years,<br />

we have educated more than 1 million and<br />

taught them to read and write.”<br />

Their annual budget also covers a variety<br />

of community programs: Among them, the<br />

creation of ten educational centers with game<br />

and toy libraries, six orphanages, a nursery,<br />

and ten health clinics.<br />

These days, under the Honorary Presidency<br />

of HSH Prince Albert II, the Principality<br />

of Monaco finances 80% of the charity’s<br />

operations, while private donors contribute<br />

the remaining 20% of the funding. With only<br />

three permanent employees, 50 local workers<br />

in the field and approximately 35 volunteers,<br />

the low cost for internal operations is clearly<br />

significant. “For a donation of €100, we send<br />

€99.40 to the project area and take out next<br />

to nothing,” affirms Lagourgue with a smile.<br />

“We have 4,000 private donors, mostly in<br />

France and Monaco. They know that their<br />

money is going directly to the field.”<br />

XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />

“School is a centre of life,<br />

a place where a terrorised<br />

child will be distracted”<br />

11 NetJets


spotlight<br />

“In a world overloaded with multiple<br />

emergencies, our biggest challenge is to<br />

continue to mobilize our donors”<br />

The organization also receives support<br />

from the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs,<br />

which donated €428,000 to build two new<br />

schools in the arid mountainous region of<br />

Sinjar, Iraq, northwest of Mosul. The city<br />

of Paris participates in creating a Mission<br />

Enfance school for Yazidi displaced in<br />

northern Iraqi camps.<br />

“Since 1992, when Mission Enfance first<br />

started working in Iraq, the population has<br />

never known a peaceful time,” Lagourgue<br />

points out. “There have always been conflicts–<br />

tribal, political, ethnic–and then came the Isis<br />

massacres in 2014.”<br />

“We’re in the process of constructing our<br />

sixth school in the area in the Nineveh Plains,<br />

inhabited by the Yazidi. We also work with<br />

the Christian community, which has always<br />

lived in that zone, and where you’ll find an<br />

incredible archaeological heritage and some of<br />

the world’s most ancient churches. Right now,<br />

in one of the villages that was 90% destroyed,<br />

one of our projects is taking charge of Yazidi<br />

girls so that they can go to university in Mosul.<br />

We finance the housing and food, but since<br />

it’s still very dangerous, particularly for young<br />

girls, the students travel 25 kilometers [16<br />

miles] back and forth on a special bus.”<br />

Projects vary widely, Lagourgue explains,<br />

but she stresses the importance of establishing<br />

a sense of community. For villagers who have<br />

returned and are slowly rebuilding their<br />

homes from the debris, it might be as modest<br />

as a rehabilitated garden with refreshment<br />

stands where families can congregate, hold<br />

weddings or dance.<br />

Mission Enfance has also just completed<br />

an educational center at Mazar-e Sharif,<br />

situated in the northern part of Afghanistan,<br />

intended for 2,800 children who were forced<br />

to flee when Isis invaded their territory. “We<br />

work in a very impoverished neighborhood,”<br />

Lagourgue says, “but our goal is to bring<br />

students from their first year all the way to<br />

terminale, so they can take their baccalaureate.”<br />

A class at the school in Mazar-e Sharif, Afghanistan<br />

Of course, nothing would run smoothly if<br />

traditions were not respected. She cites the<br />

example of needing to divide the classes into<br />

shifts, as soon as the girls reach puberty, so<br />

that boys and girls are not sitting next to each<br />

other on the same bench. In these matters,<br />

needless to say, establishing a local network<br />

is paramount. “Here, our team is headed by<br />

an Afghan engineer and his pediatrician wife,<br />

who know the cultural imperatives. True, we<br />

advance very slowly. Still, since 2005, we’ve<br />

sent 5,000 children to school in Afghanistan.”<br />

And now, almost three decades later, the<br />

individual success stories are impressive.<br />

Lagourgue cites the example of a young boy<br />

living in Burkina Faso, sponsored by a private<br />

donor, who is now pursuing a doctorate in<br />

law at the Université de Franche Comté in<br />

Besançon, eastern France. Upon graduation,<br />

he intends to return to his country to try and<br />

reform the antiquated judiciary system.<br />

“In a world overloaded with contradictory<br />

information and multiple emergencies, our<br />

biggest challenge is to continue to mobilize<br />

our donors to provide a long-term education<br />

to those who are the most helpless,” says<br />

Olivier de Richoufftz, a member of the Board<br />

of Directors.<br />

Ensuring the continuous financing of<br />

humanitarian projects is equally crucial.<br />

“It’s very difficult to have to abandon them<br />

along the way, solely for budgetary reasons,<br />

when they carry so much promise,” adds<br />

Christophe Rhodius, another Board trustee.<br />

Lagourgue, who makes frequent site visits<br />

all over the world, is unequivocal about the<br />

importance of a step-by-step approach that<br />

will open doors of possibility. “When you’ve<br />

lost everything and your home is in ruins, one<br />

way of renewing hope is by having a place to<br />

learn. It may not sound as urgent as giving a<br />

sack of rice to a family, which we also do. But<br />

above all, what Mission Enfance provides is<br />

an infrastructure where children can rebuild<br />

their world and believe in the future.”<br />

mission.enfance.org<br />

MISSION ENFANCE<br />

12 NetJets


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A rare find… exclusive, contemporary residences for sale in the heart of fashionable Chelsea<br />

with secure off street parking and concierge.<br />

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+44 (0) 207 629 0239


essentials<br />

THE SMART GUIDE<br />

A timely round-up of the latest travel news and destinations,<br />

restaurant revelations, enchanting fragrances and more<br />

A Bay Point<br />

Landing cabin<br />

WESTWARD HO<br />

The rugged hinterlands of the American West are becoming more comfortable thanks<br />

to an influx of hostelries and restaurants bringing urban comforts. By Jen Murphy<br />

For two centuries, the America West has lured<br />

pioneers with its wide-open spaces. From the<br />

golden coast of California to the jagged peaks of<br />

the Rocky Mountains, its vast landscapes have come<br />

to define the promise of possibility. Today, the tech<br />

boom rather than the Gold Rush entices transplants and<br />

they’re coming by private jet rather than stagecoach.<br />

Cities like San Francisco and Seattle capture the<br />

zeitgeist of modern-day American culture, but venture<br />

to the West’s iconic mountain towns and you’ll still<br />

feel a romance and thrill reminiscent of the days of<br />

Daniel Boone and Buffalo Bill Cody.<br />

The West is still wild but, luckily, you won’t need to<br />

rough it like a frontiersman thanks to UNDER CANVAS<br />

© BAY POINT LANDING<br />

14 NetJets


B A L H A R B O U R S H O P S . C O M<br />

9 7 0 0 C o l l i n s A v e , B a l H a r b o u r , F l o r i d a


essentials<br />

(undercanvas.com). The glamping outfitter’s<br />

new 26-tent site combines the best of<br />

camping and cowboy life with a location<br />

adjacent to Arizona’s cactus-studded<br />

Saguaro National Park and steps from the<br />

dining and amenities of luxe-dude ranch<br />

Tanque Verde. Guests can play wrangler<br />

by day, then toast s’mores and stargaze on<br />

the deck of their palatial safari tent at night.<br />

On the rugged coast of Oregon,<br />

glamping gets a New Nordic twist at<br />

BAY POINT LANDING (baypointlanding.<br />

com). Angular, Scandi-influenced cabins<br />

designed by acclaimed California studio<br />

R&A Architecture are outfitted with warm<br />

Pendleton blankets, Beekman 1802<br />

amenities and smart TVs with Hulu and<br />

Netflix, just in case you get bored with the<br />

ocean views.<br />

Colorado’s backcountry finally has a<br />

base that rivals the gourmet mountain huts<br />

of Europe. Set at 11,000ft in the San Juan<br />

Mountain Range, RED MOUNTAIN ALPINE<br />

LODGE (redmountainalpinelodge.com) is a<br />

timber A-frame with three private rooms and<br />

a large loft that sleeps up to 20. Radiantfloor<br />

heating, a wood-burning sauna and<br />

a wine collection with a stellar selection of<br />

Châteauneuf-du-Pape ensure guests keep<br />

cosy in winter. But the real draws are the<br />

in-house guides and hundreds of hectares of<br />

tree skiing right out the front door.<br />

In Utah, the new LODGE AT BLUE SKY<br />

(aubergeresorts.com/bluesky), located just<br />

outside of Park City, debuts an exclusive<br />

heli-ski programme this winter giving<br />

powderhounds with deep pockets access<br />

to three private ski zones in the Uinta and<br />

Wasatch Mountain Ranges. Lay fresh<br />

tracks in alpine bowls and steep chutes<br />

all morning, then return and indulge with<br />

refined mountain fare at Yuta restaurant or<br />

with a flight of whiskeys at on-site distillery<br />

High West.<br />

The culinary factor has also been upped<br />

in Saratoga, Wyoming, where the debut<br />

of THE FARM AT BR<strong>US</strong>H CREEK RANCH<br />

(brushcreekranch.com) takes the seedto-table<br />

concept to new levels. Tasting<br />

menus at the Cheyenne Club restaurant<br />

showcase ingredients produced in the<br />

on-site creamery, bakery and 20,000 sq ft<br />

organic greenhouse as well as meat from<br />

the farm’s herd of Japanese wagyu cows.<br />

Hidden below the dining room, you’ll find<br />

a James Bond-worthy speakeasy stocked<br />

with rare whiskies and a 30,000-bottle<br />

wine cellar.<br />

From top: View from The Lodge at Blue Sky; glamping at Under Canvas;<br />

Cheyenne Club restaurant at The Farm at Bush Creek<br />

© LODGE AT BLUE SKY, © UNDER CANVAS, © BR<strong>US</strong>H CREEK RANCH<br />

16 NetJets


CULINARY HIGHS<br />

Fans of Georgia O’Keeffe will know that the American painter, revered for her desert landscapes,<br />

was a foodie ahead of her time. She’d approve of SASSELLA (sassellasantafe.com), an Italian<br />

restaurant that debuted this summer adjacent to the Georgia O’Keefe Museum in Santa Fe. Chef<br />

Cristian Pontiggia, a veteran of numerous Michelin-star eateries, has a dedicated farmer growing<br />

80% of the restaurant’s produce and makes all of his charcuterie in-house. In culinary-crazed<br />

California, female chefs helm the hottest tables. Chef Pim Techamuanvivit, who currently oversees<br />

the menu at Michelin-starred Bangkok restaurant Nahm, is wowing the palates of San Francisco<br />

diners with her new Thai spot NARI (narisf.com). Meanwhile, the most anticipated autumn<br />

opening in Los Angeles, Onda at the new PROPER HOTEL SANTA MONICA (properhotel.com),<br />

is a collaboration between Jessica Koslow, the chef of cult East Hollywood restaurant Sqirl,<br />

and Gabriela Cámara, chef of Mexico City institution Contramar.<br />

INTO THE WILD<br />

Sam Highley, founder of ALL ROADS NORTH<br />

(allroadsnorth.com), a luxe travel operator specializing<br />

in American road trips, share highlights of the<br />

company’s itinerary in Yellowstone and Grand Teton.<br />

WHY ARE YELLOWSTONE AND GRAND TETON SO<br />

ICONIC IN THE WEST? These two national parks offer<br />

epic, almost unbelievable landscapes that have played such<br />

a central part in the story of the American West. Whether<br />

the early Native American tribes, Lewis and Clark, or the first<br />

East Coast “dudes”, they seem to have this magnetic effect.<br />

THEY CALL YELLOWSTONE THE AMERICAN SAFARI<br />

EXPERIENCE. WOULD YOU AGREE AND IF SO WHY?<br />

Undoubtedly. It's a vast ecosystem and there is simply<br />

nowhere else in the Lower 48 where you can see such a<br />

concentration of large game. Some clients recently watched<br />

wolves being chased off a bison carcass by a grizzly; these<br />

scenes unfold right in front of you.<br />

WHAT IS SOMETHING NO ONE SHOULD MISS IN<br />

JACKSON HOLE? For me it would be spending time on the<br />

Snake River. Whether you're fly-fishing, running the rapids or<br />

just enjoying a gentle sunset float, there's no better way to<br />

switch off than traveling these landscapes by river.<br />

WHAT MAKES FALL A SPECIAL TIME TO VISIT THIS<br />

REGION? It's a magical time of the year. The crowds have<br />

died down, the aspen and cottonwoods are at their vibrant<br />

best and the elk rut is in full swing. The bugle of a bull elk is<br />

a haunting sound you'll not forget in a hurry.<br />

ISTOCK<br />

ANY DRIVING TIPS OR ROAD-STOP STOPS NOT TO<br />

MISS? It's tempting to try and do too much in the parks and<br />

end up spending all day in the car. My advice would be to<br />

focus on a few distinct areas each day and to get out from<br />

behind the wheel as much as possible. It really only takes a<br />

few steps down a trail to enter a different, altogether wilder<br />

world. For quicker stops along the way, Grand Teton’s TA<br />

Moulton Barn and Yellowstone's Giant Prismatic Spring are<br />

two favourites.<br />

17 NetJets


essentials<br />

Gibraltar Airport:<br />

36miles/58km<br />

UNDER THE SPANISH SUN<br />

An Andalucían escape par excellence, the new Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Benahavís Marbella Resort makes<br />

a stunning first impression. Guests arriving here are greeted by large expanses of softly undulating manicured<br />

grounds, a bucolic lake and a majestic, rose-hued palazzo-style edifice harboring more than 1,200 original<br />

paintings, sculptures and artifacts. Once checked in to any one of the hotel’s 138 elegant rooms, suites and<br />

villas—each with spacious terraces—most won’t see the need to leave the property with the array of incredibly<br />

diverse adventures on offer. For keen golfers, there’s a trio of 18-hole courses as well as an academy by onetime<br />

<strong>US</strong> Open winner Michael Campbell, while a more sybaritic experience can be had at the spa, which, inspired<br />

by Roman baths, comprises anything from a hydrotherapy circuit to a hammam and a comprehensive menu of<br />

medical beauty treatments. Just as invigorating is the cuisine: home to the newest outpost of the feted Spanish<br />

marque 99 Sushi Bar & Restaurant as well as “O”, a sleek Andalucía-inflected eatery by two-Michelin-star chef<br />

Paco Roncero, among several other chic dining outlets, a gourmet meal here is best capped off at Eddy’s Bar, a<br />

living-room style establishment serving innovative cocktails by award-winning mixologist Diego Cabrera.<br />

anantara.com<br />

© ANANTARA VILLA PADIERNA<br />

18 NetJets


WASTE NOT<br />

Alabama-based motorcycle manufacturer CURTISS has pared down its<br />

latest creation, Hades, to the bare minimum of materials while keeping power in mind.<br />

The all-electric motorcycle has a horizontal battery vault that targets a total<br />

output of 217hp. curtissmotorcycles.com<br />

BELGIAN BEAUTY<br />

Peaceful countryside and elegant accommodation<br />

combine at Domaine La Butte aux Bois<br />

© CURTISS, ANNE LEFEVRE, HUGO THOMASSEN<br />

On the doorstep of the heathland and pine forests of Hoge<br />

Kempen National Park, in the Limburg province of Belgium,<br />

Domaine La Butte aux Bois matches its stunning natural<br />

surrounds with a country estate of plentiful opportunities. Built<br />

in 1924 and once the home of the noble Lagasse de Locht<br />

family, “the Hill in the Woods” in Lanaken is now an ecochic<br />

resort that provides a supreme luxe experience in the<br />

most private of locations. With just 59 rooms spread across<br />

three buildings – Le Manoir, La Villa, and La Forêt – intimacy<br />

is assured. True pampering comes at the Spa Retreat La<br />

Forêt, where the facilities include an indoor pool, panoramic<br />

sauna, treatment booths, a hammam, and covered<br />

jacuzzi. Once relaxed, culinary delights await at Chef Ralf<br />

Berendsen’s two-Michelin star restaurant La Source, which<br />

charms with signature dishes such as trio of langoustine<br />

with tandoori masala, miso and couscous, and at Le Bistrot,<br />

where guests can enjoy classic dishes made from carefully<br />

selected regional and seasonal products. All the gourmet<br />

delights can be accompanied by one of the more than 400<br />

wines that await in Domaine La Butte aux Bois’s vaults. The<br />

resort also specializes in providing experiences that take<br />

advantage of its exceptional location and facilities such<br />

as a Game Brunch on 20 October – including a guided<br />

hike through the Hoge Kempen with a ranger – or the New<br />

Year’s Eve Gala, which features four courses of culinary joy<br />

in the majestic Napoléon ballroom. labutteauxbois.be<br />

Maastricht Airport: 12miles/19km<br />

19 NetJets


essentials<br />

FIVE MINUTES WITH<br />

Keith McNally<br />

Manhattan’s Downtown<br />

dining revolution can be<br />

traced back to a dozen<br />

spots, and most of them<br />

are Keith McNally’s.<br />

Balthazar, Schiller’s, The<br />

Odeon, Pravda, Pastis,<br />

Lucky Strike, Morandi,<br />

Minetta Tavern. All were<br />

shepherded into their pitchperfect,<br />

supremely cool<br />

existence by the Londonborn<br />

restaurateur, who at<br />

this point has nothing left to<br />

prove. And yet McNally<br />

reopened Pastis (pictured)<br />

this spring, less than 100<br />

yards from its original<br />

location in the Meatpacking<br />

District (the first incarnation<br />

closed in 2014). A<br />

longtime friend of McNally,<br />

NetJets, The Magazine<br />

Editor Farhad Heydari<br />

spoke to him about the relaunch<br />

and what he looks<br />

for in a restaurant.<br />

MANY A HEART BROKE WHEN<br />

PASTIS CLOSED — WAS THE PLAN<br />

ALWAYS TO BRING IT BACK? My<br />

plan was always to bring Pastis to the<br />

Meatpacking District. The last few years<br />

of its 15-year lease, Pastis was busy<br />

every night, but our landlord was a<br />

greedy bastard and wanted to triple my<br />

rent, so I was forced out.<br />

AT THE NEW PLACE, WHAT<br />

DIFFERENCES WILL DEVOTEES NOTICE?<br />

The new Pastis is more spacious and<br />

the food‘s better!<br />

TODAY’S GASTRONOMIC CLIMATE<br />

DOESN’T SEEM AS FRIENDLY<br />

TO FRENCH FARE AS IT ONCE WAS.<br />

BUT IS THAT THE POINT, TO BE<br />

CONTRARIAN? Classic bistro fare<br />

has been around since the Napoleonic<br />

Wars, which is almost as long as I‘ve<br />

been eating it. As well as Italian, French<br />

bistro food is what I most like to eat. I<br />

can appreciate Modern Nordic and<br />

other dining trends without wishing to<br />

build a restaurant around them. I only<br />

ever build restaurants that I want to go to<br />

five nights a week.<br />

WHAT SHOULD FIRST-TIMERS<br />

ORDER? The escargots and either the<br />

grilled salmon or the steak frites.<br />

YOUR RESTAURANTS HAVE A<br />

WHOLLY UNIQUE MISE EN<br />

SCÈNE THAT CONSISTENTLY<br />

DRAWS THE FASHIONABLE<br />

CROWD. IS THIS INTENTIONAL?<br />

I never build a restaurant with anyone<br />

in mind except myself.<br />

HAVE YOU DONE ANYTHING<br />

IN THE NEW RESTAURANT TO<br />

COMBAT (OR ENCOURAGE)<br />

PEOPLE ON THEIR PHONES?<br />

Hopefully, at the new Pastis, the<br />

guests will be so enamored of the<br />

look of the place and the food<br />

they‘ll forget about their effing phones!<br />

AT RESTAURANTS THAT AREN’T<br />

YOURS, WHAT SCREAMS THAT<br />

IT’S WELL EXECUTED? When the<br />

server prefaces announcing of the<br />

day‘s specials with “We have“ and<br />

not the pretentious “I have“.<br />

WHAT CAN’T YOU OVERLOOK IN<br />

A RESTAURANT? Mediocrity.<br />

WITH YOUR TRACK RECORD,<br />

YOU’RE DOUBTLESS<br />

APPROACHED FOR<br />

INNUMERABLE PROJECTS –<br />

WHAT’S NEXT? Pastis is the last<br />

restaurant I‘ll ever build.<br />

LOUISE PALMBERG; ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATION: JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />

20 NetJets<br />

Teterboro Airport: 14miles/22km


ROOM FOR INVENTION<br />

The Cotton Factory is a fresh culinary concept in Manchester, England,<br />

set in a truly exceptional space<br />

Once a mill, now an intriguing<br />

culinary destination, The Cotton<br />

Factory is bringing an everevolving<br />

selection of global cuisine to the<br />

North of England. Housed in Whitworth<br />

Locke hotel, in the heart of Manchester, the<br />

concept, in collaboration with the Londonbased<br />

food and beverage specialists The<br />

Initiative Group, utilizes the beguiling space<br />

to create pop-up restaurants from some of<br />

the exciting up-and-coming independent<br />

operators around the world. The first of these<br />

short-term residencies when it opened in July<br />

was the Mexican brand El Camino, which<br />

created a bespoke menu that included<br />

beer-braised ox cheek tacos with chipotle<br />

aioli, red pickled chili and crispy shallots;<br />

massa fried chicken tacos with red salsa<br />

and habanero aioli; as well as vegetarian<br />

options such as the chipotle cauliflower<br />

taco with radish, red chilli and sweet potato<br />

puree—all washed down with tequila<br />

cocktails. An open-plan kitchen provides<br />

diners with an insight into the workings of the<br />

chef. The new residencies will be awaited<br />

with great anticipation. lockeliving.com<br />

LUCAS SMITH<br />

El Camino’s exquisite Mexican fare found a fitting home in<br />

The Cotton Factory<br />

Manchester Airport: 9miles/14km<br />

21 NetJets


essentials<br />

For the Helix Collection—<br />

stainless steel coffee and tea<br />

service sets—GEORG JENSEN<br />

collaborated with Swedish<br />

designers Bernadotte & Kylberg.<br />

georgjensen.com<br />

Scent to Go from JO MALONE is a<br />

clever way to perfume small spaces<br />

when you’re on the move, with<br />

fragances including English pear<br />

and freesia. jomalone.com<br />

FLORIS‘s Vert Fougère balances<br />

tradition and innovation in a blend<br />

that offers smoky, velvety and<br />

woody accords. florislondon.com<br />

Escorial Albany trilby and Escorial<br />

baseball cap from London hatters<br />

LOCK AND CO. lockhatters.co.uk<br />

AESOP has produced Seeking<br />

Silence facial hydrator, a<br />

lightweight moisturizing lotion<br />

designed to bring a sense of calm<br />

to sensitive skin. aesop.com<br />

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO‘s Gentil<br />

Suono is a woody floral musk<br />

for men and women. ferragamo.com<br />

A new range<br />

from DUNHILL, the<br />

Belgrave Collection<br />

includes this small<br />

crossbody bag in<br />

leather with the<br />

brand’s signature<br />

Engine Turn pattern.<br />

dunhill.com<br />

Scents of New York:<br />

MALIN+GOETZ’s leather<br />

is a modern update on<br />

the old-age practice<br />

of using fragrances on<br />

goods made of the<br />

eponymous material,<br />

while LE LABO has<br />

added to its City<br />

Exclusive line with the<br />

Miami-inspired Tabac<br />

28. malinandgoetz.com;<br />

lelabofragrances.com<br />

COURTESY OF THE VENDORS<br />

22 NetJets


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aboardtheworld.com | +44 20 7572 1231


on the pulse<br />

NOTES FROM <strong>NETJETS</strong><br />

Latest happenings, on-board updates, events, and companywide news<br />

TO A TEE<br />

NetJets has proudly served as the Official Private Jet Provider of the PGA TOUR ® since 2014, sponsoring<br />

more than 35 of the leading professional players, including Dustin Johnson, Jordan Spieth, Justin Thomas,<br />

and Brooks Koepka. We also host events at several major tournaments throughout the year, watching<br />

these PGA TOUR greats at world-class events like the Masters and the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am and<br />

throughout the FedExCup playoffs, and more.<br />

24 NetJets


VINTAGE ONBOARD<br />

To elevate the inflight experience, NetJets will begin serving Billecart-Salmon ®<br />

Brut Reserve NV on all large cabin aircraft. Found on the best chefs’<br />

tables and served by top luxury hotels around the world, this blend of 40%<br />

pinot meunier, 30% pinot noir, and 30% chardonnay may also be requested<br />

prior to flights on light and midsize cabin aircraft. NetJets—introduced to<br />

Billecart through mutual support for (RED), a worldwide advocacy<br />

organization working to end extreme poverty and preventable disease—<br />

appreciates the motto of this 200-year old winery:<br />

“To give priority to quality and strive for excellence.”<br />

IN THE CIRCLE<br />

Inspired by Owners’ passion for and investment in wine, the NetJets Vintner Circle program was created in 2017.<br />

This exclusive club connects NetJets Owners who enjoy exceptional wine with a select group of 15 preferred vintners,<br />

who are also NetJets Owners and Napa Valley residents. Membership advantages include VIP treatment and one-ofa-kind<br />

experiences, like private tours and tastings at both world-renowned and up-and-coming vineyards.<br />

WHEN DID YOU START AT <strong>NETJETS</strong>? Two years in November. I retired from the<br />

FBI in October 2017 after nearly 22 years of service, most recently serving as a<br />

special agent on behalf of the FBI’s Joint Terrorism Task Force. I was officially retired<br />

for a week—and started here right after that. It’s been a whirlwind ever since.<br />

© <strong>NETJETS</strong> (3); ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATION: JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />

INSIDE TRACK<br />

Jack Vanderstoep<br />

VP, Global Security<br />

WHAT DOES YOUR NORMAL DAY CONSISTOF? Honestly, there really is no<br />

normal day in my world. We wrap a cloak of security around everything we do<br />

here at NetJets, so I’m involved in a wide variety of activities. First and foremost,<br />

we ensure global security for our Owners and crew by monitoring everywhere they<br />

travel internationally and domestically. This ensures that the right security plans are<br />

in place that mitigate risk. For Owner events—here and with NetJets Europe—we<br />

perform a thorough security assessment of venues and allocate a plan accordingly.<br />

The day of the event, we are there providing hands-on security. As of recently, I’m<br />

also developing the new QS Security Services platform that we will roll out to our<br />

Owners this fall. QS Security Services is a group of longtime safety experts coupled<br />

with an extended global network, together dedicated to providing elevated security<br />

for Owners traveling to high-risk destinations.<br />

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE YOU FACE IN YOUR ROLE? Overall,<br />

my biggest challenge is—and may always be—the world we live in and the<br />

ever-changing scope of terrorism, of unrest, and anything else that can cause a<br />

security concern for our Owners, crew, and aircraft. Our job is to stay ahead of<br />

it by asking, “What do we need to do as a company to mitigate risk?”<br />

25 NetJets


on the pulse<br />

BEFORE JOINING THE <strong>NETJETS</strong> TEAM,<br />

I WAS … engaged in a career in the Marine<br />

Corps that lasted more than 28 years. I<br />

enjoyed flight in more than a dozen different<br />

aircraft models, as well as assignments that<br />

ranged from the Far East to the Pentagon and<br />

many places in between. I found that military<br />

service really is an excellent environment in<br />

which to gain organizational, management,<br />

and leadership skills and experience, which<br />

have served me well and made for a smooth<br />

transition to NetJets.<br />

PILOTS IN PROFILE<br />

Darrel Sheets<br />

Director, Deferral Programs, Technical Programs<br />

MY FIRST EXPOSURE TO FLYING WAS …<br />

in flight school at Naval Air Station (NAS)<br />

Pensacola, Florida. Primary flight training was<br />

in the T-34B Mentor, a two-seater powered<br />

by a reciprocating engine. This was followed<br />

by basic jet training (T-2 Buckeye, which was<br />

built in Columbus, Ohio) at NAS Meridian,<br />

Mississippi, and then onto advanced jet<br />

training (F-9 Cougar) at NAS Beeville, Texas.<br />

Upon completion, I was designated a Naval<br />

Aviator and Marine pilot, and launched into<br />

my career in Marine aviation.<br />

THE BEST PART OF FLYING IS … found<br />

in slipping “the surly bonds” (as described in<br />

High Flight by John Gillespie Magee Jr.). A<br />

sense of exhilaration is found in merely lifting<br />

off the Earth’s surface, knowing you are in<br />

control of a machine that lets you enjoy a<br />

wholly different world.<br />

THE ONE DAY AT <strong>NETJETS</strong> I WON’T<br />

FORGET WAS … actually my first tour of duty<br />

as a First Officer. It was five days long, by the<br />

end of which I had nearly flown to the four<br />

corners of the United States—from northwest<br />

of Seattle to Southern California, to Teterboro,<br />

New Jersey, and to Southern Florida. My<br />

new logbook sported 44 hours of flight time!<br />

I felt like a lieutenant all over again, with an<br />

approved cross-country request and a fuel<br />

credit card. I soon realized some of the most<br />

rewarding flight and personal experiences that<br />

NetJets offers.<br />

ONE THING OWNERS PROBABLY<br />

WOULDN’T GUESS ABOUT ME IS … that<br />

much of my flight experience before NetJets<br />

was in the Harrier or AV-8, the British-built<br />

vertical and short takeoff and landing aircraft.<br />

I would be happy to regale them with stories<br />

of the unique capabilities of that machine.<br />

Of course, I would then have to assure them<br />

that I would not be demonstrating a vertical<br />

landing with them on their NetJets flight.<br />

ON MY DAYS OFF … I am generally<br />

enjoying seasonal activities—golf, hiking,<br />

sightseeing—or simply relaxing at home.<br />

WITHIN THE NEXT TEN YEARS, I WOULD<br />

LIKE TO … close out my NetJets career,<br />

which is now in its 22nd year and counting.<br />

I am finding that doing so may be difficult;<br />

early on I discovered the dynamic, everchanging<br />

NetJets environment much to my<br />

liking, and it remains so.<br />

MY BEST ADVICE FOR STAYING SANE<br />

ACROSS TIME ZONES IS … being well<br />

rested beforehand, coupled with adequate<br />

hydration en route and brief ventures from<br />

the flight deck.<br />

JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />

26 NetJets


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76, RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS<br />

ENQUIRIES +33 (0)1 53 05 52 69 FLORENT.JEANNIARD@SOTHEBYS.COM<br />

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owners profile<br />

THE ULTIMATE FREEDOM<br />

28 NetJets


Italian couture titans Domenico Dolce<br />

and Stefano Gabbana muse on<br />

what makes their style unique and why,<br />

unlike some luxury brands with<br />

billion-euro turnovers, they remain<br />

fiercely independent<br />

By Avril Groom<br />

Designer duo Stefano<br />

Gabbana, left, and<br />

Domenico Dolce<br />

remain bold spirits in<br />

the fashion world<br />

STEFANO BABIC<br />

Dolce & Gabbana’s fall/winter 19/20<br />

show—held as usual in their own<br />

fashion theatre in Milan—was<br />

elegant and, by their standards,<br />

surprisingly restrained. Entitled “Eleganza”<br />

and with the words “Fatto a mano” (made by<br />

hand) embroidered on some dresses, it drew<br />

attention to the timeless crafts that are essential<br />

to their beautifully constructed tailoring and<br />

exuberantly embellished evening wear.<br />

In place of the over-the-top inclusions of<br />

recent shows—such as casts of hundreds and<br />

stars like Monica Bellucci, Isabella Rossellini<br />

and former French First Lady Carla Bruni<br />

Sarkozy—instead the spectacle included<br />

a black-and-white video of the designers’<br />

workrooms, which looked almost as if it had<br />

been filmed in the 1950s. After a somewhat<br />

controversial year, it was a reminder of their<br />

origins in the glorious bella figura of Italian<br />

style, in the Catholic culture, lush gardens,<br />

and food, in their love of gold-braided pomp<br />

and even the gangsterism of Dolce’s native<br />

Sicily. It was a marked shift in emphasis<br />

from high-octane glamour to powerfully<br />

alluring investment dressing, but, as proudly<br />

independent designers, Domenico Dolce<br />

29 NetJets


owners profile<br />

and Stefano Gabbana have plenty of<br />

confidence to do this.<br />

Both designers sum up the advantage of<br />

this independent status—and spirit—in one<br />

word: freedom. “Being free allows us to express<br />

our creativity without any constraint, the most<br />

important aspect of our work as designers,”<br />

they say. “It’s essential and has allowed us to<br />

build our message, a narrative that is clearly<br />

reflected in our collections.” This aesthetic is<br />

based, according to Dolce, on “contrast – our<br />

style results from opposites coming together.<br />

We mix different shapes and styles, exploring<br />

all possible alternatives. On one side we have<br />

the corset, black sheath dresses, lace skirts, all<br />

very sensual. On the other side there are the<br />

men’s-cut clothes, T-shirts and sneakers.”<br />

Gabbana sees it more as an expression of<br />

Italian culture. “Our design DNA is a mix of<br />

elements based on our history of love, passion<br />

for Italy, fashion, culture and the family,” he<br />

says. Rather than being interested in fashion<br />

trends, he says, “we create clothes and<br />

accessories that talk about us and our love<br />

for life. We keep up with what is happening:<br />

we research, we look for new and different<br />

fabrics, we read, but above all we are inspired<br />

by life, people and love.” Travel is another<br />

creative driving force: “It makes us dream,”<br />

they say and appreciate how their status as<br />

NetJets Owners helps cater to this desire.<br />

Despite being outside the all-powerful<br />

fashion combines, through judicious<br />

partnerships with manufacturers Dolce<br />

& Gabbana has built a full-scale fashion<br />

empire that includes handbags, shoes,<br />

sunglasses, perfumes and cosmetics, and<br />

watches and jewelry. It also includes, in a<br />

very unorthodox move, its Alta Moda, the<br />

Italian equivalent of haute couture—oneoff,<br />

hand-made, often elaborate items, fitted<br />

and sometimes totally designed for one<br />

client and never repeated exactly for another.<br />

It is a time-consuming and very costly<br />

operation that many houses treat more as a<br />

promotional necessity. Traditional couture<br />

”Alta Moda allows us to<br />

push our creativity to the extreme<br />

– we never have limits”<br />

MONICA FEUDI<br />

30 NetJets


A quartet of bravura<br />

creations from Dolce<br />

& Gabbana’s fall/winter<br />

19/20 collections<br />

houses like Chanel, Dior and Valentino<br />

started with this and then branched into<br />

ready-to-wear and accessories; Dolce &<br />

Gabbana’s decision to reverse the route is<br />

indicative of their sense of freedom, and it<br />

provides a business model that other brands<br />

are examining, now that the desire for the<br />

unique among the most demanding global<br />

clients sees them increasingly patronizing<br />

haute couture.<br />

“We are not interested in fashion directions,<br />

the so-called ‘trends’; we just want to fulfill the<br />

dreams of our customers,” says Dolce. “Alta<br />

Moda was our dream and we waited for the<br />

right time to do it. In 2012 we presented the<br />

first collection in Taormina, Sicily, and we have<br />

so many good memories of that show, which<br />

marked a huge change. Alta Moda allows us to<br />

push our creativity to the extreme—we never<br />

have limits.” Gabbana credits their “team of<br />

super-talented tailors and seamstresses who<br />

work with us”, a prime example of the muchvaunted<br />

“Made in Italy” tradition.<br />

That first show set another Dolce &<br />

Gabbana pattern: twice-yearly displays of<br />

the most exquisitely detailed and decorated<br />

clothes, in a sumptuous, sometimes exotic,<br />

location, for which clients and carefully<br />

selected press are flown in to a three-day<br />

party, that now includes reveals of the men’s<br />

version—Alta Sartoria—and unique highjewellery<br />

pieces and watches, all spun off<br />

from the success of that first collection. It is<br />

eminently social; clients renew friendships<br />

with each other, as well as with the designers.<br />

“We simply try to make them part of a real<br />

family. We listen to them, we chat, we spend<br />

time with them, building a relationship based<br />

on humanity,” says Dolce. The clients have,<br />

they say, been equally enthusiastic about the<br />

accessories, unique examples of the best Italian<br />

craft tradition in jewelry and watch-dial<br />

making. “We like the idea of creating small<br />

marvels that are collectibles and that fulfill<br />

our customers’ wishes,” they say. “To achieve<br />

them takes time, work and a great passion for<br />

what you are doing, and our customers are very<br />

enthusiastic about this.”<br />

This July, they returned to Sicily for an<br />

extravaganza set in the town that was the home<br />

of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of<br />

The Leopard, one of their constant inspirations,<br />

that took years to plan. Displayed among the<br />

gloriously opulent clothes and jewels for both<br />

sexes was their latest project: ornately engraved<br />

gold and jeweled watches with a specially<br />

designed movement that bring the brand into<br />

yet another area of high-end luxury.<br />

The pair are certainly not resting on their<br />

laurels and are constantly seeking new markets<br />

and new ways to spread their vision to a wider<br />

customer base. Traditionally, the pinnacle of<br />

fashion was aimed at a more mature client<br />

on the assumption that few younger people<br />

could afford it and those who could would<br />

be introduced by their families. Now wealthy<br />

millennials brought up on social media are<br />

key, especially in the Far East, and Dolce &<br />

Gabbana has been quick to capitalize, with<br />

Instagram-ready, teen-star front rows, and<br />

the newest model names. Despite the pair’s<br />

assertion that they “don’t like quantifying what<br />

we do in terms of income—we are happy with<br />

a millennial clientele but we love all customers<br />

equally”, they and their advisers are clearly<br />

nimble and shrewd.<br />

They are also authentic in a way that<br />

some big luxury brands are charged with no<br />

longer being. They are now not the couple<br />

in life that they were when they started, but<br />

the success of their vision depends on the<br />

dynamic between them and, as Dolce points<br />

out, “We are united by a strong affection,<br />

certain ties will never break.”<br />

“I don’t know what I’d do without<br />

Domenico!” exclaims Gabbana. “Of course<br />

we fight, we have different ideas and opinions<br />

and sometimes it takes a while before we get<br />

to a decision. But in the end, we always find<br />

the solution that makes us both happy and<br />

satisfied. We are two sides of the same coin.”<br />

As to the future, with designers such as<br />

Giorgio Armani and the late Karl Lagerfeld<br />

working well into their eighties, at 61 and 56,<br />

respectively, neither Dolce nor Gabbana is<br />

looking to retire, or to change their business<br />

model, any time soon. Which should keep<br />

their wide-ranging legion of fans, so well<br />

reflected on their catwalks, very happy indeed.<br />

dolcegabbana.com<br />

31 NetJets


WHERE<br />

ELEGANCE MEETS<br />

ADRENALINE<br />

The Global Champions League<br />

is the equestrian series<br />

taking the sport to new heights<br />

By Leslie Threlkeld<br />

32 NetJets


clearing fences<br />

S<br />

how jumping might have been<br />

inspired by the fox hunt—horses<br />

needed to jump hedges and fences<br />

in order to follow the hounds—but<br />

the sport has come a long way since those<br />

early days in the English countryside.<br />

Indeed, Olympic medals for show<br />

jumping have been given out continuously<br />

since 1912, making it one of the oldest<br />

events in the games, and in recent years<br />

the Global Champions League (GCL) has<br />

offered the sport’s elite an opportunity to<br />

showcase its dizzying mélange of tradition,<br />

athleticism, teamwork and training in some<br />

of the world’s most spectacular locales—all<br />

of which are a long way from the British<br />

countryside.<br />

Unlike many other Olympic sports, which<br />

maintain the country-centric classification<br />

in between the quadrennial events—show<br />

jumping at the highest level has become like<br />

international club football, where individual<br />

teams bring together athletes from different<br />

nations as a unit.<br />

The GCL piggybacks on the similarly<br />

named Longines Global Champions Tour<br />

(LGCT) schedule, which since 2006 has<br />

invited World and Olympic champions to<br />

compete for unprecedented prize money.<br />

A minimum of €300,000 is up for grabs at<br />

individual competitions, and the overall<br />

series classification allots €950,000 to the top<br />

18 athletes.<br />

LGCT founder and President Jan Tops,<br />

an Olympic show jumping gold medallist<br />

himself, set out to develop a series that<br />

would raise the standards of competitive<br />

show jumping across the globe. Established<br />

33 NetJets


clearing fences<br />

in 2016, the GCL specifically serves to bond<br />

riders from multiple countries in a year-long<br />

battle of skills on horseback that guarantees<br />

to excite crowds, bolster the sport and unite<br />

equestrian enthusiasts everywhere.<br />

Brazil’s Yuri Mansur is a member of the<br />

Paris Panthers team alongside former World<br />

No 1 Harrie Smolders of the Netherlands,<br />

Egypt’s Nayel Nassar, Darragh Kenny<br />

of Ireland, Belgian Olympian Gregory<br />

Wathelet and America’s rising star Jennifer<br />

Gates (see in conversation with, p82).<br />

Mansur, who began competing in the GCL<br />

in 2017 as a member of the Mexico Amigos,<br />

joined the Paris Panthers last year at Gates’<br />

invitation. “GCL is a door for a modern<br />

sport. It is a new point of view for team<br />

competition and adds lots of value to our<br />

sport,” he says. “It is very rich and we always<br />

learn with each other.”<br />

Uniquely designed to magnify the talents<br />

of each team, the GCL is carefully organised<br />

to reward consistent success. A maximum of<br />

20 teams, made up of four to six riders, must<br />

designate two or three people to compete at<br />

each show, beginning with the season opener<br />

at Doha in February and ending at the final<br />

in Prague in November.<br />

“Ultimately, the more clear rounds we can<br />

jump as a unit, the better off we all are,” says<br />

Nassar, who has ridden with the Panthers for<br />

three years and is currently ranked 37th in<br />

the world. “Just like horses, though, no two<br />

riders are ever the same, so even though we<br />

certainly have distinct strengths, it would<br />

be hard to pinpoint exactly what those may<br />

be. Having an aligned set of goals makes it<br />

easy for us to support one another. When one<br />

of us has a good round, it inspires the rest to<br />

follow suit in order to keep the team on the<br />

lowest possible score.”<br />

The teams themselves are built specifically<br />

to combine experienced talent with up-andcoming<br />

stars of the sport. A minimum of two<br />

athletes must rank within the top 250 of the<br />

ASHLEY NEUHOF<br />

34 NetJets


From far left: Nayel<br />

Nassar and Jennifer<br />

Gates in Hamburg,<br />

where their Paris<br />

Panthers team took<br />

third place; teammate<br />

Darragh Kenny at the<br />

Chantilly event<br />

Previous page: Harrie<br />

Smolders in action at<br />

Miami Beach<br />

Longines FEI Jumping World Rankings as<br />

of 31 August of the previous year. Teams are<br />

encouraged to bring on board at least one<br />

athlete who is 25 years of age or younger, a<br />

position filled for the Panthers by 23-yearold<br />

Gates.<br />

Throughout the season, GCL competitions<br />

consist of two jumping rounds set anywhere<br />

from 1.5 to 1.6 metres in height, the same as<br />

Olympic competition. The fastest time with<br />

the fewest penalties (given as the result of<br />

wood-core rails falling out of their supporting<br />

cups due to a careless hoof ) is rewarded with<br />

points on the leaderboard as well as additional<br />

prize offerings for clear, or zero penalty,<br />

rounds—which is to say, as much as €50,000<br />

for avoiding mistakes. The scores of each<br />

team’s designated athletes are combined, and<br />

points relative to the team’s overall placing are<br />

applied to the year-end leaderboard.<br />

After ten months of thrilling, edge-ofyour-seat<br />

riding, teams convene in Prague<br />

for the series conclusion, where the quarterfinal,<br />

semi-final and final determine the<br />

overall winner. With each round, teams are<br />

eliminated, and the tension builds to an<br />

incredible race for the win, which requires<br />

equal parts bravery and caution.<br />

Rob Hoekstra is the team manager for the<br />

Paris Panthers and encourages the riders to<br />

work together more intently to achieve their<br />

goals. The team finished third at Valkenswaard<br />

in August, and four team members are ranked<br />

in the top 30 on the LGCT. They were also<br />

third in June at Cascais/Estoril and Hamburg.<br />

A second-place team finish is their best of the<br />

<strong>2019</strong> series, earned in Shanghai in May. The<br />

Panthers still have some ground to cover; at<br />

the time of writing, they were placed tenth in<br />

the League. In show jumping, however, it’s not<br />

over until the final fence is jumped, and three<br />

series competitions remain on the schedule.<br />

“[Hoekstra] generally wants the best horse<br />

and rider combinations [competing] at any<br />

given time. That being said, we will analyse<br />

our team’s performance and take a hard<br />

look at which horses and riders are in the<br />

best form come November,” Nassar says<br />

of the Panthers’ strategy looking ahead to<br />

the final. “Prague is the only indoor venue<br />

on the tour, so we will have to factor in our<br />

horses’ strengths, too, as some are more<br />

suited to that type of venue. Accordingly,<br />

we will decide who represents the Panthers<br />

in Prague, but the strategy is always to jump<br />

as many clear rounds as possible, and I don’t<br />

see that strategy changing any time soon.”<br />

While a top placing is ideal, the<br />

relationships developed over a year of<br />

chasing a common goal, in beautiful places<br />

across the globe and with knowledgeable<br />

onlookers watching intently, is, at the very<br />

least, a reward. Mansur cites the entire year<br />

as being a memorable experience. “The<br />

way we are dealing with the team is very<br />

good. We had some [losses], but … we are<br />

still able to manage and to guarantee good<br />

results during the season.”<br />

For Nassar, the memories made are more<br />

specific: “So far, my most memorable show<br />

was certainly GCL Hamburg. Jenn and I<br />

rode on the team together for the first time<br />

this season, and we managed to squeeze<br />

onto the podium with a third place. Later<br />

on that afternoon, I was also second in the<br />

five-star LGCT Grand Prix to cap off a<br />

great week from an individual standpoint<br />

as well.”<br />

“The whole team is getting ready for<br />

the Playoffs,” Mansur says of his plans for<br />

the rest of the year. “We are making all the<br />

adjustments necessary, so we have more<br />

riders ready and good to go at the end of the<br />

year. We divide all shows during the season,<br />

so we can have the horses fresh and ready to<br />

succeed!” The Global Champions Playoffs take<br />

place in the O2 Arena, Prague, between 21 and<br />

24 November; globalchampionsleague.com<br />

Prague Airport to O2 Arena: 14miles/22km<br />

35 NetJets


LANZAROTE LOOKS<br />

The wild landscapes and whitewashed towns<br />

of the Spanish island provide an alluring backdrop<br />

to the season’s standout fashions<br />

Styled by Sayuri Bloom<br />

Photography by Stephan Glathe<br />

36 NetJets


isle of style<br />

Him: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER<br />

dark gray linen coat,<br />

gray and dark green<br />

cotton vest, camel<br />

brown linen pants<br />

HERMÈS leather boots<br />

Her: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER<br />

white cotton shirt and<br />

white pants, black<br />

leather vest<br />

ZUHAIR MURAD black<br />

heeled boots<br />

37 NetJets


isle of style<br />

38 NetJets


Above: MIU MIU beige shirt, corset with pockets, safari pants and cheetah-print<br />

pumps with crystals<br />

Above right, her: ALEXANDER McQUEEN black suit with long sleeve collar detail;<br />

him: CALVIN KLEIN black-and-white check shirt LEVI‘S black jeans jacket with fake fur<br />

detail MSGM sweater (lying across the legs)<br />

Facing page: BELSTAFF dark-red leather jacket MISSONI red and purple lined pants<br />

and knitted orange, red and purple sweater HERMÈS black leather boots<br />

39 NetJets


isle of style<br />

SYSTEM knitted turtle-neck sweater, knitted vest poncho, wool coat<br />

with fake-fur collar detail<br />

Facing page: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dark gray oversized coat with belt<br />

BELSTAFF brown leather belt BALLY leather pants HERMÈS leather boots<br />

41 NetJets


isle of style<br />

42 NetJets


Above: THE ROW long black robe with turtle neck RALPH & R<strong>US</strong>SO<br />

velvet belt with silver tiger heads<br />

Left: ISABEL MARANT beige cotton jumpsuit with belt MONCLER<br />

biker moonboots<br />

Facing page: FAITH CONNEXION black silk dress with ostrich feathers HO<strong>US</strong>E OF MALAKAI<br />

necklace ATELIER SWAROVSKI bracelet with crystals HERMÈS black wild-leather boots<br />

43 NetJets


isle of style<br />

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI camel-brown leather jacket, gray check jacket,<br />

off-white turtle-neck jumper and camel-brown cord pants<br />

Below, him & her: PRADA hats, coats, vest and earrings<br />

Facing page, him & her: DOLCE & GABBANA hats, vest, shirt, coats,<br />

earrings, pants and shoes/boots CHANEL earrings<br />

44 NetJets


HAIR: PAUL DONOVAN @ CLM; MAKE-UP: KERSTIN HAYDU; ASSISTANTS: MARIO BERTIERI AND STEPHANIE DEVRED<br />

Lanzarote Airport<br />

45 NetJets


on the pulse<br />

IT’S COMPLICATED<br />

Perpetual calendars are the connoisseurs’<br />

wristwatch, and in the age of smartphones<br />

they are trending once more<br />

By Laurie Kahle<br />

O<br />

ur Gregorian calendar is full<br />

of quirks, with some months<br />

ending at 30 days, others<br />

at 31—and then, of course,<br />

there’s February. Highly skilled watchmakers<br />

have long addressed this vexing system<br />

with a perpetual calendar complication, also<br />

known as quantième perpétuel (QP), which<br />

automatically adjusts for months of varying<br />

lengths, including leap years.<br />

Theoretically, if you kept these impressive<br />

mechanical wrist computers fully wound and<br />

optimally running, no calendar adjustment<br />

would be necessary until 1 March 2100, when<br />

Pope Gregory XIII’s idiosyncratic, 16thcentury<br />

calendar dictates we skip the leap year.<br />

The mechanism’s inherent technicity<br />

makes it a testament to the skills of any<br />

watchmaker who can master it. And, as a<br />

result, perpetual calendars have long been the<br />

provenance of the most discerning collectors.<br />

This year, several brands are offering new<br />

takes on the perpetual calendar, from<br />

classical to contemporary, elegant to sporty.<br />

A few other manufacturers have adjusted<br />

their models to make the connoisseurs’<br />

complication more broadly appealing.<br />

With a history that spans 264 years,<br />

VACHERON CONSTANTIN (vacheronconstantin.com)<br />

has more experience than<br />

46 NetJets


owner profile<br />

Frederique Constant<br />

Perpetual Calendar<br />

Tourbillon Manufacture<br />

XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />

Facing page left to right:<br />

Chopard LUC All-in-One;<br />

Bovet Retrograde Perpetual<br />

Calendar Récital 21<br />

47 NetJets


on the pulse<br />

Clockwise from top left: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel; Montblanc Heritage<br />

Perpetual Calendar; Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar<br />

most with perpetuals. This year, the Swiss<br />

brand took the genre to an entirely new<br />

level with the innovative Traditionnelle<br />

Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, devised with<br />

two balances, each operating at different<br />

frequencies. A pusher allows you to switch<br />

between active mode at 5Hz (36,000vph)<br />

with four days of power reserve, and standby<br />

mode at 1.2Hz (8,640vph), which extends<br />

the power reserve to at least 65 days, reducing<br />

the need to reset the watch if the power runs<br />

down when you’re not wearing it.<br />

Also appealing to its heritage, BOVET<br />

(bovet.com) brought a new twist to the<br />

traditional perpetual with the Retrograde<br />

Perpetual Calendar Récital 21, noteworthy<br />

for its unconventional design, a hallmark<br />

of the brand that dates back to the 19th<br />

century. Hours and minutes are read on a<br />

small center dial, encircled by a retrograde<br />

date display. Apertures reveal the day, month<br />

and leap year cycle. The inclined case shape,<br />

inspired by an old writing desk, allows<br />

enough volume for the small seconds hand<br />

to sweep beneath the central dial in another<br />

unexpected flourish.<br />

Aesthetic delight is equally in focus at<br />

AUDEMARS PIGUET (audemarspiguet.com),<br />

which made a splash with this year’s launch<br />

of CODE 11.59, a full-scale collection that<br />

includes an elegant perpetual calendar with<br />

a sparkly aventurine glass dial. While hardly<br />

radical, CODE broke from convention with<br />

a 41mm multipart case that alludes to the<br />

brand’s bread-and-butter Royal Oak, with<br />

an octagonal middle case and hexagonal<br />

screws. The double-curved concave/convex<br />

crystal visually enhances the dial.<br />

Tradition is a powerful force in<br />

watchmaking, and many new perpetual<br />

calendars adhere to established aesthetic<br />

codes with calendar information presented<br />

on three sub-dials, often paired with a moon<br />

phase display for good measure. In recent<br />

years, PARMIGIANI FLEURIER (parmigiani.<br />

com) has revisited its classical Toric collection,<br />

embodying Michel Parmigiani’s devotion to<br />

the golden ratio. This year, the brand presented<br />

a new variation of its first wristwatch, the<br />

Toric QP Retrograde, which debuted in 1999.<br />

The design’s signature hand-knurled bezel<br />

is preserved, while the case, lugs and crown<br />

have been subtly streamlined and tweaked<br />

for enhanced ergonomics. The new Toric<br />

Quantième Perpétuel Rétrograde features an<br />

instantaneously jumping retrograde date and<br />

a precision moon phase that requires only one<br />

correction every 122 years.<br />

The latest Master Ultra Thin Perpetual<br />

Enamel from JAEGER-LECOULTRE (jaegerlecoultre.com)<br />

has also undergone a stunning<br />

transformation with an updated JLC 868<br />

movement that rotates the displays 180<br />

degrees, placing the moon phase at the<br />

bottom of the dial. The 39mm white gold<br />

limited edition of 100 stands apart with its<br />

48 NetJets


While perpetual calendars traditionally<br />

have been dress watches,<br />

old-school rules no longer apply<br />

radiant hand-enameled guilloché-engraved<br />

dial layered with lustrous blue enamel.<br />

Steeped in classicism, BLANCPAIN’s<br />

(blancpain.com) Villeret Quantième Perpétuel<br />

6656 also got a makeover in a limited edition<br />

with a sunray blue dial. Restricted to 88<br />

pieces, the slim, solid platinum version is<br />

exclusively available in the brand’s boutiques.<br />

Not one but three new perpetual calendars<br />

based on models from the past feature in A<br />

LANGE & SÖHNE’s (alange-soehne.com)<br />

latest offerings, including the Langematik<br />

Perpetual Honey Gold. And in April, the<br />

brand further flaunted its technical expertise<br />

by unveiling a silver anniversary limited<br />

edition, commemorating the modern<br />

relaunch of the brand in 1994, with the<br />

Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 25th<br />

Anniversary comprising 25 pieces in white<br />

gold with a blue-printed argenté-colored dial.<br />

Last year, CHOPARD (chopard.com)<br />

revisited its super-complicated LUC Allin-One,<br />

which debuted in 2010 to mark<br />

the brand’s 150th anniversary. Two new<br />

redesigned limited editions in rose gold and<br />

platinum feature dual dials, with perpetual<br />

calendar and tourbillon on the front and<br />

astronomical functions on the back, making<br />

the All-in-One the most complicated watch<br />

that the brand has ever built.<br />

While perpetual calendars traditionally<br />

have been dress watches, old-school rules no<br />

longer apply. GIRARD-PERREGAUX’S (girardperregaux.com)<br />

Laureato Perpetual Calendar<br />

introduced the complication into the brand’s<br />

sporty steel model, originally launched in the<br />

1970s. The unusual asymmetrical dial layout<br />

features different sized sub-dials displaying<br />

date, day and leap year, while the month<br />

appears in an elongated aperture across the<br />

bottom of the clous de Paris textured dial.<br />

Also tracing its roots back a few decades—<br />

to the 1950s—IWC’s (iwc.com) Ingenieur<br />

Clockwise from top left: Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59; Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel<br />

Rétrograde; A Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual Honey Gold; Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic<br />

Perpetual Calendar<br />

49 NetJets


on the pulse<br />

These watches demonstrate the<br />

wearer’s appreciation for craftmanship<br />

Above: IWC Pilot’s Watch<br />

Perpetual Calendar Chronograph<br />

“Le Petit Prince”<br />

Below, from left to right:<br />

Blancpain Villeret<br />

Quantième Perpétuel 6656;<br />

Girard-Perregaux Laureato<br />

Perpetual Calendar<br />

collection grew this year as the brand cased<br />

the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital<br />

Date-Month in lightweight yet robust grade<br />

5 titanium, a sporty update from the 2017<br />

version in gold. The brawny 45mm flyback<br />

chronograph, limited to 100 pieces, features<br />

double-digit month and date displays in the<br />

sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, and a leap year<br />

aperture in the running seconds sub-dial at 6<br />

o’clock. IWC also launched the Pilot’s Watch<br />

Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, marking<br />

the first time it combined a chronograph and<br />

perpetual calendar in a pilot model.<br />

Value is not a term one typically associates<br />

with perpetual calendars. But a few brands<br />

have managed to produce handsome,<br />

more affordable watches within the genre<br />

typically limited to horological connoisseurs.<br />

Take MONTBLANC (montblanc.com), which<br />

followed up on its 2014 Meisterstück<br />

Heritage Perpetual Calendar with this year’s<br />

Heritage Perpetual Calendar, limited to 100<br />

pieces in rose gold and unlimited in steel.<br />

The brand spent three years developing the<br />

new manufacture automatic caliber MB<br />

29.22, which replaces the typical lever-driven<br />

construction with a more user-friendly<br />

architecture using only wheels, allowing you<br />

to set the calendar in both directions. It also<br />

adds a dual-time function for travelers.<br />

Meanwhile, BAUME & MERCIER (baumeet-mercier.com)<br />

added a perpetual calendar<br />

module to last year’s milestone Baumatic<br />

line, featuring an exclusive state-of-theart<br />

movement developed with Richemont<br />

Group’s movement manufacturer Horlogère<br />

ValFleurier. Like the Montblanc Heritage<br />

Perpetual Calendar, the 42mm Clifton<br />

Baumatic Perpetual Calendar is classical by<br />

design and endowed with technical advances,<br />

such as a silicon balance spring, magnetic<br />

resistance, extended power reserve and more.<br />

Taking the notion of value-driven<br />

complications to extremes, FREDERIQUE<br />

CONSTANT (frederiqueconstant.com) introduced<br />

two new versions of its Perpetual Calendar<br />

Tourbillon Manufacture, launched last<br />

autumn to mark the brand’s 30th anniversary.<br />

Available in stainless steel and rose gold, the<br />

limited editions are priced at a fraction of<br />

what you would expect for a pairing of two of<br />

watchmaking’s most illustrious and technical<br />

complications.<br />

In our modern age, when smartphones<br />

deliver the day, date and month at your<br />

fingertips—as well as a whole lot more—a<br />

mechanical perpetual calendar on the wrist<br />

is inevitably an anachronism, but it is also a<br />

demonstration of the wearer’s appreciation<br />

for human ingenuity and craftsmanship. As<br />

we digitize ever further, there is something<br />

wonderful in this mechanical precision,<br />

especially when it comes in such a beautiful<br />

package, and without ever needing to charge<br />

the battery.<br />

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE WATCHMAKERS<br />

50 NetJets


MARK BRADFORD<br />

CERBER<strong>US</strong><br />

2 OCTOBER – 21 DECEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

LONDON<br />

WWW.HA<strong>US</strong>ERWIRTH.COM<br />

MARK BRADFORD, THE PATH TO THE RIVER BELONGS TO ANIMALS, <strong>2019</strong>, MIXED MEDIA ON CANVAS, 168.9 × 228.9 CM / 66 1/2 × 90 1/8 IN, PHOTO: JOSHUA WHITE


FALLING<br />

FOR PORTO<br />

Bursting with youthful vigor,<br />

the Portuguese city has become<br />

a destination with appeal far<br />

beyond the grape<br />

By Paul Richardson<br />

52 NetJets


urban primer<br />

View over the<br />

city from the<br />

Monumental Palace<br />

53 NetJets


urban primer<br />

Until quite recently, even as Lisbon<br />

roared into the fast lane as a hip<br />

global metropolis—the Berlin of<br />

Southern Europe—its cousin to<br />

the north, Porto, was still stuck in the slow<br />

lane. Portugal’s second city was like one of<br />

the fine old wines to which it lends its name:<br />

Pungent, slow-maturing and suitable for<br />

enjoying in small, unhurried sips.<br />

Riding the wave of Portugal’s new-found<br />

fashionableness, however, the city on the<br />

Douro has pulled off the trick of embracing<br />

modernity, and hugely increased popularity,<br />

while preserving much of its nostalgic<br />

charm. Close observers could see the signs of<br />

imminent change back in 2005, when Rem<br />

Koolhaas’s thrillingly modernist, monolithic<br />

CASA DA MÚSICA (casadamusica.com)<br />

appeared on a downtown roundabout,<br />

overcoming public suspicion to become a<br />

much-loved cultural institution. But it’s<br />

the last half-dozen years in which Porto<br />

has moved into top gear. The decadent<br />

and dilapidated Ribeira district has seen its<br />

riverside tenements lovingly restored as part<br />

of a massive sprucing-up operation. Foreign<br />

investment has duly flooded in, along with an<br />

influx of visitors that has both delighted and<br />

alarmed local residents.<br />

Beyond the old-town nucleus, once<br />

unremarkable neighborhoods are fizzing<br />

with life. Affluent Foz, the well-upholstered<br />

Chef José Avillez in his<br />

eponymous Cantinho<br />

residential district at the mouth of the<br />

Douro estuary, is newly desirable thanks<br />

to chic neighborhood hangouts CAFEÍNA<br />

(cafeina.pt), WISH (fb.com/wishfoz) and<br />

TERRA (fb.com/terrafoz), and the recently<br />

opened, art nouveau-styled VILA FOZ HOTEL<br />

(vilafozhotel.pt). In the past two decades<br />

Bombarda (as the area around Rua Miguel<br />

Bombarda is informally known) has become<br />

a full-on contemporary art hub where<br />

the bimonthly openings at galleries such<br />

as PRESENÇA (galeriapresenca.pt), SÃO<br />

MAMEDE (saomamede.com) and TRINDADE<br />

(galeriatrindade.co.pt) bring international<br />

collectors flocking to this downtown<br />

zone. But as tourism makes inroads into<br />

the city, the Porto art scene has spilled<br />

out of Bombarda into other, sometimes<br />

edgier parts of town: Worth the detour<br />

are A CERTAIN LACK OF COHERENCE<br />

(acertainlackofcoherence.blogspot.com), the<br />

newly cutting-edge GALERIA MUNICIPAL<br />

(galeriamunicipaldoporto.pt) and NUNO<br />

CENTENO (nunocenteno.com), an avantgarde<br />

art space housed in an old stonemason’s<br />

yard on Rua da Alegria that won the 2018<br />

Frieze New York Focus Prize.<br />

Even Vila Nova de Gaia, where for<br />

centuries the port houses have stored their<br />

barrels in silent cellars, is not immune to<br />

the city’s new wave of self-improvement.<br />

COCKBURN’S (cockburns.com) has opened<br />

PAULO BARATA, ALBERTO PLÁCIDO; ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATION: JULIAN RENTZSCH; PREVIO<strong>US</strong> SPREAD: © MAISON ALBAR HOTELS LE MONUMENTAL PALACE<br />

54 NetJets


INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:<br />

MAURA MARVAO<br />

The agent for Phillips<br />

auction house in Portugal<br />

and Spain flits between<br />

Brazil, Madrid, London<br />

and New York, but was<br />

born and raised—and still<br />

has her home—in Porto.<br />

HOW DO YOU SEE<br />

THE CITY’S RECENT<br />

DEVELOPMENT?<br />

Many things have changed<br />

for the better. The city center<br />

was very decadent before,<br />

and its recovery has been<br />

very positive. Tourism and<br />

foreign investment have<br />

obviously helped. We need<br />

to be a little bit careful with<br />

tourism, and hopefully we<br />

can learn from other cities’<br />

mistakes. Good things in<br />

excess become bad things!<br />

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE<br />

CULTURAL HOTSPOT IN THE<br />

CITY? I love the Serralves<br />

Foundation (serralves.pt),<br />

a masterpiece by Porto’s<br />

famous architect Álvaro<br />

Siza. There’s a brand new<br />

section inside the property,<br />

the Casa do Cinema—it’s<br />

focused on Portuguese<br />

director Manoel de<br />

Oliveira, but open to films<br />

from all over the world.<br />

The Quinta do Vallado<br />

vineyard hotel in the<br />

Douro Valley<br />

AND A FAVOURITE CHILL-<br />

OUT SPOT? The Parque da<br />

Cidade in Foz, one of the<br />

biggest city parks in Europe.<br />

There are lakes, and it ends<br />

at the seaside. It‘s perfect<br />

for running, yoga, picnics.<br />

Take your dog!<br />

55 NetJets


Clockwise from top left:<br />

The Álvaro Siza-designed<br />

Casa de Chá da Boa<br />

Nova; boutique hotel<br />

Armazém’s lobby;<br />

the Douro River winds its<br />

way through the valley;<br />

Vinum restaurant at<br />

Graham’s winery<br />

56 NetJets


urban primer<br />

The newest places tick all<br />

the boxes, from brunch<br />

spots and cocktail bars to<br />

clean-eating joints<br />

© CASA DE CHÁ DA BOA NOVA, ANTONIO CHAVES, ANTÓNIO PEDROSA/4-SEE/LAIF, © VINUM RESTAURANT & WINE BAR<br />

its new visitor center in an historic lodge;<br />

GRAHAM’S (grahams-port.com) now has an<br />

excellent winery restaurant, Vinum; and the<br />

upcoming World of Wine from TAYLOR’S<br />

(taylor.pt), which commandeers a number<br />

of historic warehouses for a wine-themed<br />

culture center along the lines of Bordeaux’s<br />

Cité du Vin, may prove to be a game-changer<br />

for this sleepy quartier.<br />

If top-shelf hotels in Porto were once<br />

thin on the ground, nowadays the visitor<br />

seeking splendor is spoilt for choice.<br />

A decade of openings has left a high<br />

watermark in the PALÁCIO DE FREIXO<br />

(pousadapalaciodofreixo.com), a fabulous<br />

restoration of an 18th-century mansion on the<br />

riverbank, the blueprint of which cunningly<br />

factors in the early-industrial flour mill next<br />

door; and THE YEATMAN (the-yeatman-hotel.<br />

com), in the wine district of Gaia, a sumptuous<br />

property that put oenological tourism firmly<br />

on the city’s agenda. Smart townhouse hotels<br />

and boutique boltholes have multiplied in<br />

the last five years, notable examples being<br />

TOREL AVANTGARDE (torelboutiques.com),<br />

ARMAZÉM (armazemluxuryhousing.com)<br />

and PESTANA PORTO – A BRASILEIRA<br />

(pestanacollection.com), a new arrival from the<br />

Pestana group incorporating the century-old<br />

and now resplendent A Brasileira café. But<br />

the bigger excitements, it has to be said, are<br />

at the top end of things: Porto’s chattering<br />

classes have been much exercised by the<br />

new MONUMENTAL PALACE (maison-albarhotels-le-monumental-palace.com)<br />

on Avenida<br />

dos Aliados—a formerly tatty 1920s Grand<br />

Hotel whose Art Deco stylings have been<br />

stunningly repointed by local design studio<br />

Oitoemponto.<br />

Porto may be the HQ of a world-class<br />

wine, but the city could never have been<br />

described as a gastronomic hub. Until its<br />

recent boom, the pleasures of the portuense<br />

table were to be found mainly in the city’s<br />

down-home repertoire of salt cod á Gomes de<br />

Sá, octopus rice and the famous sandwichin-sauce<br />

the francesinha, preferably devoured<br />

in an old-fashioned cookhouse down by the<br />

river. The newfound revolution in Porto<br />

restaurants has changed all that. Chefs of<br />

renown have disembarked in number, most<br />

notably José Avillez, possessor of a selection<br />

of locales in Lisbon, whose CANTINHO<br />

DO AVILLEZ (cantinhodoavillez.pt) on Rua<br />

Mouzinho da Silveira takes laid-back Iberian<br />

snacking to new heights of deliciousness.<br />

Elsewhere, Ricardo Costa holds one of<br />

northern Portugal’s few Michelin stars at<br />

The Yeatman and Rui Paula showcases<br />

his fresh New Portuguese cooking at DOP<br />

(doprestaurante.pt) and at the CASA DE CHÁ<br />

DA BOA NOVA (casadechadaboanova.pt).<br />

(The latter, a beachside tea house-cum-gastro<br />

destination up the coast in Leça, is an early<br />

masterpiece by genial Porto architect Álvaro<br />

Siza and worth a visit for the building alone.)<br />

Meanwhile, a new batch of talented younger<br />

chefs is cooking up a storm at gastro-bistros O<br />

PAPARICO (opaparico.com), BARTOLOMEU<br />

(bartolomeu.com.pt), OFICINA (oficinaporto.<br />

com) and MISTU (mistu.pt).<br />

Apart from alta cozinha per se, the newest<br />

Porto places tick all the boxes of international<br />

urban fashion, from brunch spots and cocktail<br />

bars to clean-eating joints—but the best of<br />

the bunch are original and striking. Between<br />

the Clérigos Tower and the riverside Ribeira,<br />

it can seem that every other renovated, tile-<br />

57 NetJets


VINTAGE VIEW:<br />

RUPERT SYMINGTON<br />

The CEO of Symington<br />

Family Estates was born<br />

in Porto and belongs to<br />

an Anglo-Portuguese family<br />

based in the Douro for<br />

three centuries.<br />

Art Nouveau stylings in the Vila Foz Hotel & Spa<br />

IS PORTO A PLACE YOU’D<br />

RECOMMEND EVEN IF IT<br />

WEREN’T YOUR HOME?<br />

Oh yes—in fact, I've been<br />

recommending it to friends for<br />

years. We have great transport<br />

connections, a superb airport,<br />

good broadband and relatively<br />

inexpensive real estate. In the<br />

last few years it’s been brilliant<br />

to see how the crumbling ruins<br />

downtown have been restored.<br />

The work has been very<br />

well planned, respecting the<br />

area's 17th- and 18th-century<br />

architecture. Another advantage<br />

is that Porto is incredibly safe:<br />

You can wander around at night<br />

and have absolutely no trouble.<br />

covered building now contains a funky venue<br />

for grazing or raving. FLOW (flowrestaurant.<br />

pt), MUNDO (fullest.pt), CANTINA 32<br />

(cantina32.com) and TABERNA DOS<br />

MERCADORES (fb.com/tabernamercadores)<br />

are just a few of the downtown hangouts<br />

currently cutting the mustard.<br />

In a formerly conservative, introspective,<br />

provincial town, the pace of all this change<br />

can be a trifle dizzy-making. Witness<br />

COLONIAL (fb.com/colonial.bystudio66),<br />

open now at a seaside location in Foz. This<br />

forward-thinking enterprise combines<br />

elements of bar, restaurant and nightclub,<br />

with a funky interior by local firm Studio<br />

66, live music and—here’s the radical bit—<br />

an entertainment policy that, according to<br />

a spokesperson for the venue, is planned<br />

to include “classic pole-dancing shows, not<br />

in a burlesque style, but done rather in a<br />

sophisticated and classy way”. Postmodern<br />

pole-dancing in Porto? Proof, if it were<br />

needed, that Portugal’s slow-lane city is<br />

finally up to cruising speed.<br />

SHARE A COUPLE OF INSIDER<br />

TIPS WITH <strong>US</strong>. Happily! The<br />

Flor do Gás ferry crosses the<br />

river from Lordelo to the fishing<br />

village of Afurada, on the<br />

south side. It's a fun thing to<br />

do. You can take your bike on<br />

board. Then head for the port<br />

lodges in Gaia. We have just<br />

reopened the visitor center at<br />

Cockburn's—it's a fantastic old<br />

building, and there's a barrelmaking<br />

workshop where you<br />

can watch the coopers at work.<br />

VALLEY HIGH<br />

It might be argued, though it sounds like a paradox, that the soul of Porto lies not in the city itself but further inland in the Douro River valley. In this<br />

dramatically beautiful region, where the vineyards are racked up in terraces on either side of the winding waterway, discerning travelers take their ease<br />

at winery lodgings such as QUINTA DO VALLADO (quintadovallado.com) and QUINTA NOVA (quintanova.com), or wine and dine at Rui Paula’s<br />

restaurant DOC (docrestaurante.pt) in its sleek modernist pavilion on the water’s edge. The SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY (sixsenses.com), with its<br />

superlative spa, has set the seal on the valley as a first-class destination worthy of comparison with Chianti, Burgundy and the Loire, blending top-end<br />

hospitality with fine wines and glorious landscapes. For an up-close experience of the river and its surroundings, take a trip on the FRIENDSHIP I<br />

(pipadouro.com), a 1957 British admiralty yacht moored in Pinhão. Exclusive cruises for up to eight people include lunch or dinner created by the chef<br />

who has conquered the region – Rui Paula.<br />

NICK BAYNTUN; ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATION: JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />

58 NetJets<br />

Porto Airport to city center: 9miles/15km


country bliss<br />

ALENTEJO’S ALLURE<br />

Portugal’s vast, bucolic and little-populated region makes a relaxing<br />

rural escape from the buzzing cities of the west coast<br />

PEITA BLYTHE<br />

1 An in-the-know destination<br />

for seekers after unspoiled and<br />

undeveloped coastal landscapes,<br />

Comporta has been a destination<br />

for a few years now. The hippest<br />

places to stay hitherto have been<br />

Sublime Comporta and Casas<br />

na Areia, but architect Miguel<br />

Câncio Martins’s brand new<br />

QUINTA DA COMPORTA has<br />

raised the bar, upcyling the area’s<br />

rustic reed-and-thatch architecture<br />

of an ancient rice barn into a<br />

masterpiece of rustic minimalism.<br />

quintadacomporta.com<br />

2 A 26-suite contemporary hotel<br />

among the vines, with views across<br />

a lake towards the medieval castle<br />

of Montemor-o-Novo, L’AND<br />

VINEYARDS seamlessly combines<br />

wine and landscape, modernity<br />

and alentejano heritage. Ten rooms<br />

have retractable roofs, for nights<br />

under a star-scape of astonishing<br />

clarity. l-and.com<br />

3 Not much doubt about<br />

Alentejo’s top cultural day-trip:<br />

It would have to be ÉVORA.<br />

This stupendous granite-andwhitewash<br />

city is a Unesco World<br />

Heritage site whose gloriously<br />

gloomy Gothic cathedral and<br />

Roman temple of Diana are only<br />

the most obvious of a slew of<br />

historic gems. At the M’AR DE<br />

AR AQUEDUTO, contemporary<br />

luxe sits prettily in a 15th-century<br />

palace hard by the town’s medieval<br />

battlements. mardearhotels.com<br />

4 José António Uva left his London<br />

banking job to restore a country<br />

estate near Monsaraz that had<br />

been in his family for two centuries.<br />

Starchitect Eduardo Souto de<br />

Moura was drafted in to help<br />

create SÃO LOURENÇO DO<br />

BARROCAL’s gorgeous mélange<br />

of rustic simplicity and minimal<br />

chic. The result is a bar-raiser for<br />

Alentejo. barrocal.pt<br />

5/7 Wine tourism is a growing<br />

trend in Alentejo. If HERDADE<br />

DO ESPORÃO, a 4,500 acre<br />

estate dating from 1267, is the<br />

region’s enoturismo pioneer (its<br />

in-house restaurant helmed by<br />

Carlos Teixeira being among the<br />

region’s finest), a more recent<br />

tendency involves mixing wine with<br />

art. QUINTA DO QUETZAL’s<br />

cutting-edge contemporary winery,<br />

owned by Dutch art collectors Cees<br />

and Inge de Bruin, boasts a 450<br />

sq m exhibition space and a cool<br />

modern restaurant. wesporao.com,<br />

quintadoquetzal.com<br />

6 Straddling the Spanish/<br />

Portuguese border over 60,000<br />

acres hectares, the ALQUEVA<br />

RESERVOIR is Europe’s largest<br />

artificial lake. Sailing, kayaking,<br />

and waterskiing can all be<br />

practiced here—head for the marina<br />

at AMIEIRA—while a gentle cruise<br />

gets you up close and personal<br />

with the lake’s wildlife and natural<br />

beauty. amieiramarina.com<br />

8 An historic property and now a<br />

country-house lodging, HERDADE<br />

DO TOURIL stands within sight<br />

and smell of the Atlantic Ocean. A<br />

collection of low-rise whitewashed<br />

buildings picked out in blue in the<br />

purest Alentejo style, the house<br />

is still run in hands-on fashion<br />

by Luis Leote Falcão, a scion of<br />

the Herdade’s original owners.<br />

herdadedotouril.com<br />

59 NetJets


60 NetJets<br />

A SLOVENIAN STORY


Far from the madding crowds,<br />

Ana Roš has built an unlikely<br />

culinary destination that celebrates<br />

the bounty of the Julian Alps<br />

By Bill Knott<br />

BENJAMIN SCHMUCK<br />

D<br />

rive into the small town of Kobarid,<br />

western Slovenia, and—depending<br />

on the time of year—you might<br />

spot the occasional winter sports<br />

enthusiast, mountain biker or cliff diver, while<br />

the picturesque, emerald-green Soča River,<br />

which flows down from the spectacular Julian<br />

Alps, is the babbling playground for whitewater<br />

rafters and canoeists.<br />

The town has historically been kicked<br />

back and forth between Italy, Austria-<br />

Hungary and the former Yugoslavia, and<br />

during the First World War, it was almost<br />

completely destroyed. These days it is<br />

thoroughly at peace, a remote community<br />

that prides itself on its self-sufficiency.<br />

Ana Roš is very much part of that<br />

community. She is also responsible for a new<br />

breed of visitors to the Soča Valley: Gourmets<br />

making the pilgrimage to Hiša Franko, the<br />

restaurant where she cooks, and her husband<br />

Valter is sommelier and cellarmaster. It is also<br />

the family home: They have two children,<br />

and Valter’s parents live there, too, making it<br />

three generations under the same roof. And<br />

it is, according to the annual San Pellegrino<br />

World’s 50 Best awards, the 38th best<br />

restaurant in the world.<br />

Her ascent to global fame has been<br />

extraordinary. A talented skier who was picked<br />

for the Yugoslavian youth team, she turned<br />

down the chance to become a professional<br />

in favor of a degree in international relations<br />

and a career in diplomacy.<br />

Then, in 2002, she changed tack<br />

completely. With little experience of cuisine<br />

beyond “cooking bowls of pasta at five in the<br />

morning when I was a student”, Ana took<br />

over Valter’s parents’ old-style Slovenian<br />

restaurant at Hiša Franko, “found what few<br />

61 NetJets


gourmet spotlight<br />

cookbooks I could in the library” and started<br />

creating a kind of new-wave Slovenian<br />

cuisine, starring beautifully plated dishes that<br />

showcased fiercely local ingredients.<br />

Not everything went to plan: Her sudden<br />

career change had gone down badly with<br />

her parents: “They were dark times. My<br />

relationship with them was very difficult—<br />

and I made mistakes, unfortunately for<br />

the guests!” But her perseverance paid<br />

off, and the diplomatic service’s loss was<br />

gastronomy’s gain.<br />

Her cookery attracted the interest of<br />

Italian food writers; Roš credits Anna Morelli<br />

in particular: “She came through the door<br />

when nobody knew us and told everyone. I’ll<br />

always be grateful.” Invitations to top-drawer<br />

culinary events started to land on Hiša<br />

Franko’s doormat, and her rise to the top was<br />

confirmed when the producers of Netflix’s<br />

Chef ’s Table came calling: A 2016 episode<br />

starred Roš, her restaurant and—not least—<br />

the stunning scenery in which she lives and<br />

works. Overnight, the hits on Hiša Franko’s<br />

website went from 200 a day to 10,000, and<br />

the business’s financial stability was assured.<br />

Roš gives much of the credit for her<br />

success to this unique landscape. Now in her<br />

mid-40s, she keeps in shape with a daily run.<br />

“When I’m on top of the mountain I can see<br />

the lagoons, rivers, meadows, forests, gardens<br />

and, villages: Every plate I create has at least<br />

one element from this environment.<br />

“I know farm-to-table is very trendy now,<br />

but sometimes it’s just rubbish, like the<br />

Russian place I went to that had a sea urchin<br />

from the Faroe Islands on the menu.”<br />

Roš’s sense of place is very precise. “We<br />

are mountain people. Winters are harsh, so<br />

you need to preserve food to survive them:<br />

Salting, curing, pickling, fermenting. We<br />

have a little house in Istria—south of here,<br />

near the Adriatic—and it’s still 20˚C even in<br />

February, so you can garden all year round<br />

and there’s no need to preserve food: The<br />

locals would think you were stupid!<br />

“Of course, nowadays we realize how<br />

healthy and flavorsome fermented foods<br />

are, but originally it was simply a means<br />

of survival. Slovenia is a completely rural<br />

country, and everyone has a garden to grow<br />

their own food, even in Ljubljana. We have<br />

four gardens at Hiša Franko: They weren’t<br />

my idea, they were already here.”<br />

Her style of cooking sprang from necessity,<br />

too. “There weren’t really any suppliers<br />

when we started—it’s so remote here—so<br />

I had to forge relationships with farmers<br />

and producers.” She is especially proud of<br />

”We are mountain people. Winters<br />

are harsh, so you need to preserve food:<br />

salting, curing, pickling, fermenting”<br />

62 NetJets


Roš and staff are a<br />

study in concentration<br />

as they prepare<br />

another superlative dish<br />

Facing page: inside<br />

the intimate dining room<br />

of Hiša Franko<br />

her role in helping to secure the future of<br />

the endangered marble trout, a fish that<br />

features heavily on her menus, perhaps with<br />

green peas and blackcurrants, served with a<br />

sauce made from the trout’s fermented liver,<br />

or with reduced whey (leftovers from the<br />

cheese they make at Hiša Franko), puffed<br />

buckwheat, scented geranium and mint. Her<br />

“breakthrough” dish, created in 2006, was<br />

a raviolo filled with liquid potato in trout<br />

broth, with steamed trout and trout eggs.<br />

Damming of rivers and the introduction<br />

of brown trout to the Soča River had almost<br />

wiped out the indigenous marble trout. “It’s a<br />

beautiful story, a species that almost became<br />

extinct, revived by dedicated local people. In<br />

a way, it’s my story, too.”<br />

She sounds a note of caution, however.<br />

“There’s a place about 40km [24 miles]<br />

from here where they grow rosa di Gorizia,<br />

a special kind of radicchio that costs €35 a<br />

kilo or even more. It takes almost two years<br />

to produce, and there are only a few growers<br />

left, either side of the Italian border.<br />

“I talked to one of the older growers when<br />

I was researching my book [Sun and Rain, to<br />

be released later this year by Phaidon] and<br />

he said, ‘I know lots of people want it, but I<br />

think it won’t survive in time. Your generation<br />

doesn’t have the patience to wait.’ ”<br />

She is acutely aware that the homely<br />

setting of Hiša Franko may not be quite<br />

what her clientele expects. “Someone who<br />

travels 8,000 kilometers [5,000 miles] to<br />

dine with us shouldn’t expect it to be the<br />

same as a meal in Barcelona or Paris. We<br />

don’t serve lobster, caviar or foie gras, not<br />

because I don’t like them—I could eat a<br />

kilo of foie gras just with a piece of bread<br />

—but because they don’t tell the story of<br />

the restaurant and its location. And, for me,<br />

food is all about storytelling.” hisafranko.com<br />

SUZAN GABRIJAN, BENJAMIN SCHMUCK<br />

Trieste Airport: 36miles/58km<br />

63 NetJets


tasting notes<br />

IN PRAISE OF<br />

PROVENANCE<br />

Once upon a time, the Cheval Blanc<br />

winery put Saint-Émilion on the map,<br />

and it continues to beguile with some<br />

of Bordeaux’s best vintages<br />

By Rob Crossan<br />

W<br />

hen oenophiles think<br />

of Cheval Blanc, they<br />

invariably think of a<br />

certain year. For this<br />

is the august château responsible for none<br />

other than the ’47, the almost mythical wine<br />

considered to be the greatest bordeaux ever<br />

made – its voluptuous richness created by<br />

an entirely accidental combination of highly<br />

volatile acidity and residual sugar levels that<br />

would, by today’s standards, be considered a<br />

faulty batch.<br />

“Whatever the fashions and times, it<br />

has always been considered an exceptional<br />

wine,” says Pierre-Olivier Clouet, Technical<br />

Director at Cheval Blanc, a NetJets partner.<br />

“It has an absolutely incredible aging<br />

potential,” he continues by way of explaining<br />

the winery’s outsized reputation. “Whatever<br />

the season of Cheval Blanc, young, old or<br />

very old, the wine is remarkable.”<br />

Dating back to the 1830s, Cheval Blanc’s<br />

uniqueness lies in the fact that its location, in<br />

the Saint-Émilion appellation on the right<br />

banks of the Gironde estuary, is actually<br />

prime merlot territory. The unusually high<br />

amount (49%) of cabernet franc is part of<br />

what makes Cheval Blanc such a truly<br />

distinctive wine.<br />

Long considered to be little more than a<br />

backwater for vin de table, Saint-Émilion’s<br />

reputation was singlehandedly transformed<br />

by Cheval Blanc during the 19th and early<br />

20th century. The winery put the region on<br />

the map when it won a gold award at the<br />

Paris World Fair in 1878, and, then almost<br />

half a century later, its 1921 vintage created,<br />

for the first time, a truly international<br />

demand.<br />

The dizzying upward trajectory from<br />

local obscurity to global adulation was set in<br />

motion by Jean Laussac-Fourcaud. The son-<br />

64 NetJets


STUDIO ERICK SAILLET<br />

in-law of the Ducasse family, who owned<br />

the vineyard, he took over the unloved<br />

terrain in 1852, draining and renovating the<br />

land and adding the château building that<br />

still stands today.<br />

Now one of only four châteaux at the<br />

Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé<br />

“A” level in the local appellation system,<br />

the Cheval Blanc we savor today is down to<br />

the work of the LVMH chairman Bernard<br />

Arnault and the late Belgian billionaire<br />

Albert Frère, who together acquired the<br />

vineyard in the late 1990s.<br />

Architect Christian de Portzamparc<br />

designed a new cellar, and 2011 saw the<br />

first vintage made in it, equipped with 52<br />

concrete vats to ferment every single plot of<br />

the estate.<br />

When it comes to future plans, however,<br />

Clouet insists that the relentless march of<br />

progress isn’t a beat that suits this part of<br />

Bordeaux. “There is no big project or change<br />

that would make Cheval Blanc something<br />

that will be completely different tomorrow,”<br />

he says. “Our work is a work of preservation,<br />

continuity, and improvement in a framework<br />

that is always the same.”<br />

The modern world may have made a small<br />

mark on the ancient estate, as Clouet admits<br />

in relation to the cellar, but he insists the<br />

pleasure of a glass of Cheval Blanc is all but<br />

timeless. “There are 1,000 ways to enjoy it,”<br />

he laughs. “For me, the best way to see Cheval<br />

Blanc is to be at the heart of the estate, at<br />

the end of the summer, in September when<br />

the grapes are ripe, with all the vineyards<br />

around you and to drink a Cheval Blanc glass<br />

at Cheval Blanc – there is no better place.”<br />

And it is from this noble terroir where many<br />

more significant vintages, perhaps even those<br />

to eclipse the ’47, are sure to be produced.<br />

chateau-cheval-blanc.com<br />

Christian de<br />

Portzamparc’s modern<br />

design for the Cheval<br />

Blanc winery<br />

Bordeaux Airport: 32miles/52km<br />

65 NetJets


VIRTUALLY THERE<br />

66 NetJets


artscape<br />

STILLS FROM MONA LISA BEYOND THE GLASS, COURTESY EMISSIVE AND HTC VIVE ARTS<br />

Stepping into the unknown, the art world is<br />

embracing virtual reality without being quite sure<br />

how—or whether—it will be collectible.<br />

By Brian Noone<br />

67 NetJets


artscape<br />

Daniel Birnbaum, who has<br />

taken the creative reins at<br />

VR pioneer Acute Art<br />

Facing page, from top: A<br />

still from Anish Kapoor’s<br />

VR work Into Yourself, Fall,<br />

2018; the artist triying the<br />

VR headset<br />

Previous page: Mona Lisa:<br />

Beyond the Glass, a VR<br />

installation at the Louvre for<br />

the museum’s Leonardo da<br />

Vinci exhibition<br />

E<br />

urope’s most notable exhibition this<br />

year showcases Leonardo da Vinci<br />

at the Louvre, and, perhaps fittingly,<br />

one of the key displays will feature<br />

a device that Leonardo himself might have<br />

dreamed up: A virtual reality headset.<br />

Viewers will be able to explore the<br />

Mona Lisa in extraordinary detail in the<br />

VR experience—benefiting from digital<br />

enhancement to get much closer than the<br />

usual swarming crowds allow, and also<br />

discovering the latest research findings as<br />

well as novel perspectives (viewers can,<br />

among other things, see the reverse side of<br />

the painting) to make a truly new experience<br />

of the world’s best-known work of art.<br />

The Louvre is one of the more conservative<br />

institutions in one of Europe’s most techphobic<br />

countries, so its inaugural foray into<br />

VR is a clear sign, if any were needed, that<br />

VR is here to stay, at least in the art world.<br />

Five years ago, the future of VR wasn’t so<br />

obvious. Like the driverless car, prototypes<br />

existed and there was a vague promise of<br />

future ubiquity. But now, unlike autonomous<br />

vehicles, which are mired in regulatory<br />

red tape and programming details, VR has<br />

fulfilled its promise and sits comfortably<br />

across a range of industries. Architects—and<br />

their clients—have fallen head over heels<br />

for the ability to explore a full building to<br />

scale before the plans are signed off, and<br />

elsewhere it is proving especially popular<br />

as a teaching tool: Trainee surgeons in<br />

England who learn with VR outperform<br />

their 2D-educated peers, and businesses are<br />

increasingly commissioning bespoke training<br />

programs using VR following the theory that<br />

immersive learning is both more effective and<br />

more efficient.<br />

The immersive quality of VR is also a<br />

powerful draw for creative types as well, who<br />

see the potential to unlock a new level of<br />

engagement with their audience. Last month,<br />

Icelandic singer Björk released Vulnicura VR,<br />

a visual reinterpretation of her 2015 album<br />

of the same name that transfers the private<br />

connection between artist and individual<br />

from headphones to headset. “The whole<br />

process has been an improvisation, trying<br />

to keep faith in formats,” she wrote in a<br />

statement, explaining that she wanted to “try<br />

to have courage to grow along with how 360<br />

sound and vision tech was growing”.<br />

Cinema has always been primarily a visual<br />

medium, so its adoption of VR has been relatively<br />

straightforward—and rapid. In 2017, for<br />

instance, director Alejandro González Iñárritu<br />

received a Special Achievement Award Oscar,<br />

the first ever given to a VR film, for his Carne<br />

y Arena, which dramatized the border-crossing<br />

journey from Mexico to the <strong>US</strong>. The Venice<br />

Film Festival—always a bit more adventurous—<br />

has hosted an annual VR section of the festival<br />

on an abandoned island, Lazzaretto Vecchio, for<br />

the last three years. This year’s event included<br />

more than three dozen films, some interactive,<br />

others merely immersive.<br />

French director Céline Tricart, whose<br />

interactive 20-minute film The Key, also about<br />

migrants, won the overall VR competition<br />

this year, sums up the appeal of the medium<br />

for directors: “I believe VR is a first-person<br />

medium. We bring a lot of ourselves in with us:<br />

Our identity, our thoughts, our emotions. It’s<br />

story-living, instead of storytelling.”<br />

The ability to elicit deep empathy makes VR<br />

an especially appealing proposition for artists.<br />

At the very least, it’s a way to get viewers to<br />

give their full attention to works for minutes on<br />

end—a rarity at art museums and galleries.<br />

JOHN SCARISBRICK<br />

68 NetJets


COURTESY ACUTE ART<br />

But for artists like American Michael<br />

Takeo Magruder, VR is more than just a way<br />

to capture attention; it is a medium that is well<br />

suited to his subjects, which include media,<br />

data and digital archives. “I think of myself<br />

as a visual artist who happens to use digital<br />

technologies,” he says, and indeed his latest<br />

project, Imaginary Cities, synthesizes the realtime<br />

actions of visitors with historical maps of<br />

New York City to generate a new experience<br />

for each visitor—a conceptual roundness that<br />

makes use of VR’s unique properties in a way<br />

most other mediums could not.<br />

Magruder’s piece was first exhibited at the<br />

British Library in London this spring and is<br />

currently on display at Gazelli Art House, a<br />

private gallery, as part of its exhibition Enter<br />

Through the Headset 4, a shortlist of the latest<br />

VR art works on the market. Although already<br />

in their fourth year, Gazelli Art House CEO<br />

and Founding Director Mila Askarova is<br />

conscious that her annual VR exhibitions are<br />

just a beginning: “We hope with these shows<br />

we will continue building on a market for VR<br />

works,” she says.<br />

There is indeed a growing market, with<br />

pieces selling from a few thousand euros<br />

up to over €100,000, but VR art’s tenuous<br />

relationship with the market is where it<br />

69 NetJets


artscape<br />

diverges most from more traditional mediums.<br />

Big-name artists like Marina Abramovic,<br />

Anish Kapoor, Olafur Eliasson and Antony<br />

Gormley have recently produced works that<br />

are freely accessible, not only at exhibitions but<br />

also online and in apps, so that anyone with a<br />

VR headset (or cardboard smartphone holder)<br />

can view the works for themselves.<br />

There is something almost revolutionary<br />

about this, and the man leading the<br />

democratic charge is Daniel Birnbaum, a<br />

longtime radical who shocked the art world<br />

last January when he left his eminent position<br />

directing the Moderna Museet in Stockholm<br />

to take the creative reins at London-based<br />

Acute Art, where most of the boldface names<br />

are producing their VR works. He has taken a<br />

serious gamble on VR as an art form, but he<br />

holds a remarkably long view of its potential:<br />

“There are some who say you could view art<br />

as a sort of service, not something you own<br />

or keep for yourself, but something you have<br />

access to—a little bit like Spotify or Netflix,”<br />

he says with a smile. “On the other hand,<br />

I’m not so sure. It’s a potential. There is<br />

something wrong if VR art is only collected<br />

like traditional art. There is potential for it to<br />

be distributed much more widely than that,<br />

so you don’t have to go to the Frieze Art Fair<br />

or to a big museum in Paris. You could be in a<br />

little suburb of Zagreb and see the exact same<br />

things. There is a sort of quasi-utopian aspect<br />

of this—that it could be everywhere—but I<br />

think it will take a while.”<br />

Birnbaum notes that some artists have<br />

shied away from the medium, not wanting to<br />

isolate the viewers so much, but even among<br />

those who have embraced it he sees a glimpse<br />

of that utopian spirit: “The people who want<br />

to try it are there because they are curious, not<br />

because they want to grow their audiences or<br />

make money.”<br />

It’s unusual in our age to see so much talk<br />

about art without foregrounding finance,<br />

which is why VR is so confounding—it is<br />

both democratic and cutting-edge, a pairing<br />

that has become exceptionally rare.<br />

But there is one place where this pairing<br />

is perfectly at home: Museums, which often<br />

have the same twin values. Even the Louvre,<br />

staid as it is, will offer the Mona Lisa VR<br />

experience to people not able to come to Paris<br />

during the exhibition on Viveport, the digital<br />

subscription service from HTC, the firm that<br />

makes the Vive headset.<br />

“Allowing visitors who may not be able<br />

to visit the exhibition in person to access<br />

this remarkable masterpiece by Leonardo<br />

da Vinci through our home version will give<br />

unprecedented access to da Vinci’s most<br />

celebrated painting,” says Victoria Chang,<br />

Director of Vive Arts at HTC.<br />

Chang’s pride in the democratization of<br />

the world’s most valuable painting is a far<br />

cry from the price-centric discussions of that<br />

other Leonardo masterwork, the Salvator<br />

Mundi, which sold for $450.3m in 2017. It<br />

might well be that in a few decades we will<br />

look back and see that VR’s biggest effect on<br />

the art world will not have been as a medium<br />

for artists, but as a means for making our<br />

artistic masterpieces more accessible to<br />

viewers across the globe.<br />

A starry sky in Olafur<br />

Eliasson’s Rainbow, 2017<br />

XXXXXXXXXXXXX<br />

70 NetJets


“There is something wrong if VR art<br />

is only collected like traditional art.<br />

There is potential for it to be distributed<br />

much more widely than that”<br />

XXXXXXXXXXXXX COURTESY ACUTE ART<br />

71 NetJets


ich mix<br />

CLUB CORNER<br />

An exceptional humidor, three fl avorsome tomes<br />

and a selection of refi ned bottlings<br />

By Farhad Heydari<br />

THE FINER THINGS<br />

Italian firm DeART, maker of renowned humidors, has reached new levels of excellence with its bespoke limited<br />

edition creation for Hunters & Frankau HO<strong>US</strong>E RESERVE SERIES 1790 collection. Named after the year in<br />

which the London cigar importer was founded, it contains rare cigars taken from its reserve of Habanos UK<br />

Regional Editions ranging from 2005 through to its most recent release in 2017. Eight different brands feature<br />

among the 170 cigars kept in ideal condition by the high-tech humidification system. cigars.co.uk<br />

A TOUCH OF CLASS IN A GLASS<br />

Characters, custom and a certain way of life are captured<br />

in 70 concoctions for THE OFFICIAL DOWNTON ABBEY<br />

COCKTAIL BOOK, inspired by the classic UK TV series-cummovie;<br />

quartoknows.com. In SCHOFIELD’S FINE AND<br />

CLASSIC COCKTAILS two brothers, Joe and Daniel, reveal<br />

the secrets of their bartending from The Savoy to Singapore;<br />

kylebooks.co.uk. Ian Wisniewski’s THE WHISKY DICTIONARY<br />

blends history, ingredients, distilling techniques and more on<br />

whiskies around the world; octopusbooks.co.uk.<br />

72 NetJets


SPIRITS OF THE AGE<br />

The latest palate-pleasing elixirs from distilleries of distinction<br />

COURTESY OF THE VENDORS<br />

Top row: BRORA 40-YEAR-OLD 200TH ANNIVERSARY Limited edition of a 1978 single malt from the soon-to-reopen ghost distillery; diageo.com. WHISTLEPIG<br />

10 YEAR STRAIGHT RYE The Vermont-based rye whiskey maker’s pride and joy is aged in new American oak with a bourbon-barrel finish; whistlepigwhiskey.com.<br />

TALISKER BODEGA SERIES – 41-YEAR-OLD The Skye distillery continues its experimentation with sherry casks with a wonderful mix of sweet and smoky tastes;<br />

diageo.com. THE ISLE OF JURA TIDE & TIME Two 21-year-old single malts celebrate their home island having been aged in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels;<br />

jurawhisky.com. REFUGEES RUM Concocted by Bosnian-born, Lisbon-based chef Ljubomir Stanisic, this Portuguese rum has origins in Ancient Persia; 100maneiras.com.<br />

WHISKY ILLUMINATI SOLARIA SERIES The three-part bottling from five Speyside distilleries will be released over the next four years, and includes the mysterious<br />

“Artis Secretum”; whiskyilluminati.com. SAUTTER BLENDED MALT SCOTCH An intriguing release from the cigar company is made with component whiskies that<br />

span four decades; sauttercigars.com. Bottom row: GLEN MORAY DISTILLERY 21-YEAR-OLD PORTWOOD FINISH The latest addition to the Elgin Heritage<br />

Collection is a port-finished single malt that combines spicy sweetness with rich wine flavours; glenmoray.com. GORDON & MACPHAIL CONNOISSEURS<br />

CHOICE GLEN SPEY 1995 Among the new batch of releases from the famed bottling company is a refined 22-year-old single malt from the Rothes-based distillery;<br />

gordonandmacphail.com. JOHNNIE WALKER THE JOHN WALKER LAST CASK The iconic whisky has one final outing in a hand-blown Baccarat crystal decanter;<br />

johnniewalker.com. LITTLEMILL 29 YEAR OLD Littlemill’s Private Cellar collection has produced one last bottling using liquid selected from some of the last remaining<br />

casks to be laid down at the distillery; littlemilldistillery.com. CROWN ROYAL NOBLE COLLECTION FRENCH OAK CASK FINISHED The fourth edition in the<br />

series has a subtle flavour thanks in part to wood sourced from the forests of the Vosges; crownroyal.com. THE SECRET SPEYSIDE COLLECTION Four seldom-seen but<br />

much sought-after distilleries are represented in the Chivas Brothers’ new selection including the entirely vanished Caperdonich; chivasbrothers.com. GLENFIDDICH<br />

RARE COLLECTION 44 YEAR OLD Bottled in 2017 to mark the 70th anniversary of Velier, this exceptionally rare spirit is a true collector’s item; glenfiddich.com<br />

73 NetJets


inside view<br />

TEXAS’S<br />

74 NetJets


ART PARADISE<br />

A photographic journey through Marfa,<br />

where imposing desert landscapes are a perfect<br />

match for compelling contemporary art<br />

Photography by Florian Holzherr<br />

75 NetJets


inside view<br />

76 NetJets


77 NetJets


inside view<br />

78 NetJets


THE TOWN THAT JUDD BUILT<br />

If you were searching for nowhere, you would end up within<br />

spitting distance of Marfa, Texas. More than six hours‘ drive<br />

from anything resembling a city, this former military outpost in the<br />

wilds of the American Southwest began its transformation into<br />

an art mecca in the 1970s when Donald Judd moved here from<br />

New York. In the empty expanses of Marfa’s rugged terrain, the<br />

minimalist artist found a landscape that suited his work—as well<br />

as that of friends and peers like Dan Flavin, John Chamberlain,<br />

Richard Long, and Claes Oldenburg. Judd purchased much of the<br />

former military infrastructure and used it to found, among other<br />

things, THE CHINATI FOUNDATION (chinati.org), an art museum<br />

that brought the Texas backwater to national prominence. More<br />

recently, the far-flung village (population c 1,981) has become<br />

a must-visit destination for the global art cognoscenti, complete with<br />

multiple museums, a burgeoning culinary scene, and a decent<br />

hotel or two. But the focus remains on the experience of the art, just<br />

as Judd intended. At such an exceptional remove from the concerns<br />

of daily life, you can’t help but spend hours wandering between<br />

the sculptures that are sutured into the harsh desert or exploring the<br />

cavernous spaces that house everything from contemporary<br />

masterpieces to Rembrandt etchings. It’s a place entirely out of<br />

time—and one perfectly of our time as well.<br />

Opening page: Donald Judd’s 15 untitled works in concrete, 1980-1984, were the first pieces to be installed at the<br />

Chinati Foundation<br />

Previous page: Things That Happen Again: For a Here and a There, 1986-1991, an installation of two copper cones<br />

by Roni Horn<br />

Facing page: Untitled (dawn to dusk), 2016, is artist Robert Irwin’s only permanent, freestanding structure, set in an<br />

abandoned army hospital<br />

Following page: The Architecture Studio in Marfa has repurposed the former Marfa National Bank and houses a range<br />

of works highlighted by 20th-century masters such as Josef Albers and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe<br />

79 NetJets


inside view<br />

80 NetJets


81 NetJets


in conversation with<br />

TRAVEL<br />

Sun-worshipper or thrill-seeker?<br />

For vacation I love being<br />

anywhere that is sunny and<br />

close to a beach! One of my<br />

favourite places to visit is the<br />

San Diego area. I have so many<br />

great memories growing up and<br />

learning to ride there – it will<br />

always hold a special place<br />

in my heart.<br />

GOURMET<br />

Top names or hidden gems?<br />

Before a trip, I like to reach out to<br />

friends who have been to the area<br />

and get their recommendations<br />

on local cuisine. I prefer to eat at<br />

places that showcase local food<br />

and culture – I definitely prefer<br />

somewhere casual with good<br />

friends or family.<br />

ARCHITECTURE<br />

Classical or modern?<br />

I find architecture fascinating, and<br />

greatly appreciate the rich history<br />

behind many of Europe’s big<br />

cities. While I love learning about<br />

the classical aspects of each<br />

place I visit, I also enjoy the newer<br />

buildings and urban landscapes in<br />

areas such as the UAE or China.<br />

It is very interesting to see how<br />

more recent technical innovations<br />

and trends contribute to design in<br />

some of these cities.<br />

JENNIFER GATES<br />

The Paris Panthers rider on life<br />

away from the world of equestrianism<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Good book or big screen?<br />

I always prefer to pick up a good<br />

book. One of my favorite things<br />

about being on the go is the time<br />

I get to spend reading on flights.<br />

It is a way for me to decompress<br />

and connect with a story or learn<br />

about a new subject. This is<br />

one thing I always look forward<br />

to during my time in transit.<br />

FUTURE PLANS<br />

Full-time rider or broader horizons?<br />

Horses and riding will always<br />

be a big part of my life, but I<br />

am excited to be back in school<br />

and to embark on the path of<br />

becoming a physician.<br />

ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATION: JULIAN RENTZSCH FROM PHOTOGRAPH BY @GEORGEKAMPER FOR @EQLIVING<br />

82 NetJets


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