WineNZ Summer 18-19 (1)

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food | bars & restaurants Lamb sweetbreads with fat, crunchy green beans, crisp croutons and melting lardo. A blackboard list of additional wines by the glass makes your mouth water. A&M Quenard, Chignin, 2016, red, peppery with firm tannins, that went well with the richness of the dish. Smoked eel in this instance came with summery gazpacho, beautifully tomatoey, with croutons for a bit of crunch and torn pieces of lovage leaf to add a savoury touch - a well balanced dish, crisp and fresh, especially with a Greek rosé from Naousa. No matter what comes with it, samphire is one of those things you can’t pass when you see it on the menu. In this case it came with seared thornback ray with tiny brown shrimp and capers. Josh suggested a white Burgundy, either a chardonnay from Pouilly-Vinzelles or an aligoté, the other white from Burgundy, so I selected a small glass of each to compare. The chardonnay was more complex, but there was too much going on in it to complement the crisp, buttery ray with salty capers and samphire. The blander aligoté was a friendlier accompaniment. Crispy-skinned, grilled lamb saddle from Swaledale in Yorkshire came with a roll of lamb belly, Coco de Paimpol beans from Brittany, chunky green sauce and a salty jus. It was matched with a fruity Spanish red, Daterra Viticoltores Casas de Enriba from Valdeorras in Galicia. Although we had little room left for dessert, we couldn’t resist, especially as each had a recommended wine match. At last, here is a rare restaurant that cares about the difficult art of matching wine with dessert! I have to admit we selected the wine first and then the dessert that went with it. I chose a Madeira, 10-year old Malmsey from M Blandy, delicious both by itself and with a warm, chocolatey and slightly bitter mousse with crunchy salt on top and a scoop of that delectable British speciality, clotted cream. An unusual natural wine, La Stoppa, Vigna del Volta passito from Emilia Romagna, golden in colour, cloudy with oodles of ripe tropical fruit and a long finish, was accompanied by blueberry tart with slivered almonds and clotted cream at the side. Interestingly, like the rest of the food, the desserts were plainly presented without all the squiggles and fancy garnishes so beloved of many New Zealand chefs. All in all, it was a satisfying night, one of those special places that takes wine and food and their matching seriously, and has extremely knowledgeable staff to help you navigate an extensive and exciting wine list. The food was fascinating with its English and European specialities, even if some dishes were a tad too salty for my palate. And it wasn’t much more expensive than one might spend in a good New Zealand restaurant. Food Wine List Ambience Service Overall Reviewed by Charmian Smith Note: In Wellington there is a wine bar also called Noble Rot, which is not connected with the original in London. Lincolnshire smoked eel in a fresh, summery gazpacho with lovage. Samphire with ray, tiny brown shrimps and capers. Grilled Swaledale lamb saddle, lamb roll, with haricot beans and green sauce. 76 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2018-19
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WineNZ Summer 2018/19 $9.90 Winemak
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news & views www.winenzmagazine.co.
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We will have a top line-up of wine
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contents WineNZ IN THIS ISSUE SUMME
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The family way The Astrolabe family
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new releases Five-star by the sea W
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A star is The accolades keep coming
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feature | the frey way FREY WAY THE
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feature | the frey way A catch in C
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feature | the frey way Caroline Fre
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The summer issue tasting team. From
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Annual subscription ($39) Two-year
Page 26 and 27: Recommended by Sauvignon Blanc MAGA
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Page 32 and 33: tastings | alternative sauvignon bl
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Page 38 and 39: THE TWO ROSÉS Words by Paul Taggar
Page 40 and 41: Recommended by ROSÉ MAGAZINE $19.9
Page 42 and 43: Recommended by MAGAZINE Whistling B
Page 44 and 45: Associate judge Michael Ledingham s
Page 46 and 47: Recommended by MAGAZINE Recommended
Page 48 and 49: OUR WATER
Page 50 and 51: feature | kevin judd A winemaker’
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Page 54 and 55: feature | kevin judd What really ha
Page 56 and 57: Queenstown Vineyard Escape Boutique
Page 58 and 59: feature | wine people’s places Tw
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Page 64: TURNING RURAL & AGRIBUSINESS COMPLE
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Page 69 and 70: cellar door | feature Monsoon Valle
Page 71 and 72: cellar door | feature While keeping
Page 73 and 74: World-class wine science and viticu
Page 75: ars & restaurants | food Humorous p
Page 79 and 80: well matched | food Leefield Statio
Page 81 and 82: Guylian the world’s favourite Bel
Page 83 and 84: thailand | travel Thailand has some
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Page 87 and 88: maserati | motoring Congestion is h
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WineNZ Summer 18-19 (1)

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