WineNZ Summer 18-19 (1)

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food | bars & restaurants Restaurant REVIEW WineNZ’s galloping gastronomes provide the lowdown on the newest and most exciting establishments especially suited to the wine lover. Noble Rot Wine Bar and Restaurant 51 Lamb’s Conduit St London WC1N 3NB www.noblerot.co.uk An exciting place for adventurous wine lovers. Taking wine matching seriously A cosy ambience, buzzy but not noisy. An adventurous wine lover visiting London shouldn’t miss Noble Rot, the wine bar and restaurant established by the founders of the edgy, indie wine magazine of the same name. Mark Andrew and Dan Keeling, came together over a love of wine and their wine list shows it. It’s a long, intriguing list of exciting wines, many of which an antipodean may not be familiar with. There are carefully selected examples of appellations and varieties - from aligote to zibbibo, and Abruzzo to Yarra - mainly from across Europe but with a handful from the US, South Africa, South America and Australia, all begging to be tried. For those with deep pockets there are aged trophy wines 74 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2018-19
ars & restaurants | food Humorous posters and candles add to the ambience. A glass of English bubbly, Hambledon Classic Cuvee such as Krug Collection 1973 (£2250), or Trimbach Clos St Hune 1985 (£498), as well as highly coveted Bordeaux, Rhone and Burgundy vintages. You could also try a retsina from Corinthia, a robola from Kefalonia, a pinot noir from Moravia, an ajaccio from Corsica or something from the Canary Islands. For the less adventurous, there are more familiar appellations such as Loire, Mosel or Rhone, but nothing from New Zealand. The owners are very Eurocentric, explains Josh, our knowledgable waiter who used to work in Melbourne and so is familiar with wines from this part of the world. We took his advice on wines to match individual dishes, Thanks to a Coravin system there’s a by-the-glass list of more than 30, augmented by a blackboard list of specials which includes aged wines by the glass such as a 1990 Figeac for £63 or a more modest Suduirat 1985 for £19. There are two sizes of pour, 75ml or 125ml. We took advantage of this to compare two small glasses of different wines with some courses. Lambs Conduit is a quiet street in Bloomsbury, a couple of blocks from the British Museum and Russel Square. Outside the modest shopfront are a handful of tables where patrons were enjoying a late Saturday afternoon glass of wine and bar food. We were early - it’s difficult to gauge travel times in London - and the restaurant was not yet open, so we sat in the bar with a glass of English bubbly, a refreshingly nutty Hambledon Classic Cuvee from Hampshire, and took in our surroundings. They were unpretentious; dark wood, paler walls above the dado hung with framed posters - quirky covers of their magazine and humorous cartoons, and a well leaned-upon bar. These premises had been a wine bar in a previous life. Further inside, the long, narrow restaurant extends back from the street, dark, but with glassware glinting. Although it appears dim, the lights are appropriately placed for the tables so you can read the menu and see what you are eating. The decor is modest, simple but cosy, the effort going into the wine, food and service rather than the decoration. Once the restaurant fills up, the atmosphere is buzzy but not loud. An example of the slightly self-deprecating humour in some of the posters. Chefs Paul Weaver and Stephen Harris (formerly of the Michelin-starred The Sportsman in Whitstable) present a small but contemporary English menu, fresh, seasonal and changing daily, but with some more or less permanent signature dishes, such as slip sole with smoked butter, or a dish featuring smoked eel. Provenance is indicated - the smoked eel is from Lincolnshire, beef from Hereford, tomatoes from San Marzano in Italy, and haricot beans from Brittany with their own Coco de Paimpol AOC. Interesting oldfashioned but newly trendy vegetables and flavourings appear - samphire, a crisp, salty succulent harvested during a short summer season from tidal estuaries, the savoury herb lovage, and croutons cooked in dripping. Even the bread selection included a slightly sweet, salty soda bread with buttermilk and molasses, along with sourdough and focaccia, Soda bread, raised with baking soda rather than yeast, was once common in the British Isles. A starter of lamb sweetbreads came with fat, crunchy green beans, crisp croutons and melting lardo, cured pork back fat. Josh recommended a Savoie wine, www.winenzmagazine.co.nz 75
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WineNZ Summer 2018/19 $9.90 Winemak
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news & views www.winenzmagazine.co.
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We will have a top line-up of wine
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contents WineNZ IN THIS ISSUE SUMME
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The family way The Astrolabe family
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new releases Five-star by the sea W
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A star is The accolades keep coming
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feature | the frey way FREY WAY THE
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feature | the frey way A catch in C
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feature | the frey way Caroline Fre
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The summer issue tasting team. From
Page 24 and 25: Annual subscription ($39) Two-year
Page 26 and 27: Recommended by Sauvignon Blanc MAGA
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Page 38 and 39: THE TWO ROSÉS Words by Paul Taggar
Page 40 and 41: Recommended by ROSÉ MAGAZINE $19.9
Page 42 and 43: Recommended by MAGAZINE Whistling B
Page 44 and 45: Associate judge Michael Ledingham s
Page 46 and 47: Recommended by MAGAZINE Recommended
Page 48 and 49: OUR WATER
Page 50 and 51: feature | kevin judd A winemaker’
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Page 54 and 55: feature | kevin judd What really ha
Page 56 and 57: Queenstown Vineyard Escape Boutique
Page 58 and 59: feature | wine people’s places Tw
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Page 64: TURNING RURAL & AGRIBUSINESS COMPLE
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Page 69 and 70: cellar door | feature Monsoon Valle
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