Real Food Fall 2019

JOSÉ ANDRÉS: DYNAMO ON A MISSION
Lunds & Byerlys
COMPLIMENTARY
FALL 2019
Gorgeous
Gourds
From soup to dessert,
discover deliciously different
ways to enjoy winter squash
03
FREE
HAUTE DISHES: Elevating the casserole
WEEKNIGHT FIX: Cook at home with 5 easy ideas
REINVENTING DINNER: Love your leftovers

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contents
Features
20 Haute Dishes
Elevate comforting casseroles with
a sprinkling of sophisticated touches
BY FAITH DURAND
real food
fall 2019
28 Gorgeous Gourds
Celebrate the harvest with delicious winter
squash recipes from soup to dessert
BY ROBIN ASBELL
38 Weeknight Fix
Skip takeout and cook healthy,
easy meals at home
BY ROY FINAMORE
46 Reinventing Dinner
Love your leftovers
RECIPES BY JULIA TURSHEN
52 Dynamo on a Mission
José Andrés embraces food
and life with gusto
BY TARA Q. THOMAS
Departments
4 Bites
Accessible Chinese food
RECIPES BY ANDREW, IRENE AND MARGARET LI
6 Kitchen Skills
A delicious taste of the
season—fresh tomato sauce
BY JASON ROSS
8 Contributors
17 Ingredient
Cauliflower: From side dish to pizza crust
BY ANNA BJORLIN
18 Healthy Habits
Tips for gut health
BY ERIK TORMOEN
56 Pairings
Beaujolais: Beyond nouveau
BY MARY SUBIALKA
THAI RED CURRY SQUASH AND
CHICKEN STEW (RECIPE PAGE 34)
2 real food spring fall 2017 2015

C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
27
43
56
Our Cover
Creamy Squash Soup with Sherry, Thyme
and Spiced Pumpkin Seeds (page 31)
Photograph by Terry Brennan
Food styling by Lara Miklasevics
recycleMAGAZINElogo_WHITE.pdf 1 6/23/16 2:55 PM
PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN
SENIOR EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING CLAIRE NOACK CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA
ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK, ANNA BJORLIN, LIANNA MATT McLERNON AND ERIK TORMOEN
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELSEY FISH
VOLUME 15, NUMBER 3 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S, Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402,
612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission
from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on
paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain
healthy, productive and biologically diverse.
fall 2009 2019 real food 3

ites
Getting Past Fried Rice
With the right recipes, anyone can dive into Chinese cooking
When you’re looking for new recipes to tackle, it can be difficult to find the sweet spot between being too simple and too
challenging—especially if it’s a cuisine you’re not familiar with cooking. To make Chinese food more accessible (and provide
new and delicious flavor combos for masters in the field), Andrew, Irene and Margaret Li, the three owners, chefs and siblings
of the Boston restaurant Mei Mei, wrote “Double Awesome Chinese Food.” Like their restaurant menu, some of the book recipes have
a decidedly Chinese American (and New England flavor) point of view—but with a more streamlined process for the everyday kitchen.
Whether you choose classics like the Beef and Broccoli or the Carrot Coconut Soup included below or something more contemporary,
there’s no doubt that you’ll score extra brownie points if you serve it family style, just as the Lis prefer. —Lianna Matt McLernon
Carrot Coconut Soup
MAKES 4 SERVINGS AS AN APPETIZER OR 2 SERVINGS AS A MAIN DISH
This soup won over our hearts with its bold and festive color and
hints of spice. With a creamy richness from the coconut milk,
it’s a warming and welcoming soup perfect for cooler days. We
like it with the Middle Eastern herb and spice mixture za’atar,
or you could try curry powder, ras el hanout or ground Sichuan
peppercorns. For garnish, you can swirl in a teaspoon of miso,
drizzle with olive oil or scatter with toasted croutons, chopped
herbs, pickles—you name it.
1 scallion
1 tablespoon olive oil or vegetable oil
1 pound carrots, trimmed and sliced
into ½-inch-thick coins (5 to 6 carrots)
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon za’atar
½ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
2 cups water or vegetable broth
1 cup coconut milk
splash of apple cider vinegar or rice vinegar
1. Thinly slice the scallion, setting aside the white and lighter green slices for the pot and the darkest
green slices for garnish.
2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil is shimmering, add the white
and lighter green parts of the scallion, the carrots, garlic, ginger, za’atar, and salt to the pot. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until everything starts to brown and give off a toasty aroma, about 6 minutes.
Add the water and coconut milk, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, which will
help flavor the soup. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the carrots are softened,
about 30 minutes.
3. Carefully pour the hot soup into a blender or use an immersion blender to puree until smooth.
Explosion warning: If you’re going the blender route, fill only halfway and make sure to remove the
center of the blender cap so steam can escape. Use a thick tea towel to cover the hole instead and
start on low speed, working your way up. Thin with water if needed.
4. Stir in the vinegar for brightness, taste, and add more salt as needed. Sprinkle with the reserved
scallions or other toppings of your choice, then spoon into bowls and serve.
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM
“DOUBLE AWESOME CHINESE FOOD”
BY MARGARET LI, IRENE LI AND
ANDREW LI © 2019 BY MARGARET LI,
IRENE LI AND ANDREW LI.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL PIAZZA.
REPRINTED IN ARRANGEMENT WITH
ROOST BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF
SHAMBHALA PUBLICATIONS, INC.
4 real food fall 2019

Beef and Broccoli
MAKES 4 SERVINGS, WITH RICE OR OTHER SIDE DISHES
In our take on this classic Chinese restaurant dish, both the beef and the
broccoli get a lovely char and crunch. We pan-fry a steak to medium-rare
and oven-roast the broccoli; if you’ve only had limp, gloopy takeout versions
of this dish, you’ll be surprised by the texture and flavor in these florets
and stalks. Make sure you peel the broccoli stalk—it gets a bad rap, but
the sweet, nutty flavor is fantastic once you get past the tough outer layer.
For the Beef
1 pound flank, skirt or hanger steak
1 tablespoon soy sauce (substitute tamari if gluten free)
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola, divided
kosher salt
For the Broccoli
1½ pounds broccoli, stems trimmed, peeled and cut into
chunks, tops cut into florets
¼ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
For the Sauce
1½ teaspoons neutral oil, such as canola
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, minced
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons soy sauce (substitute tamari if gluten free)
1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
For the Garnish
¼ cup Garlic Panko (See recipe right)
zest of 1 lemon, optional
Garlic Panko
MAKES ½ CUP
2 tablespoons neutral oil or olive oil
1 clove garlic
½ cup Japanese panko or homemade breadcrumbs
pinch of kosher salt
1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat
until shimmering, then add the garlic and stir until lightly
browned, about 1 minute. Add the panko and cook, stirring
constantly, until the breadcrumbs darken to a deep
golden brown, about 3 minutes. Discard the garlic clove,
transfer to a plate, sprinkle with the salt, and set aside to
cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature
for up to 2 weeks.
1. To marinate the beef: Combine the beef, soy sauce, wine and 1 tablespoon of oil in a sealable plastic bag. Marinate for at least
20 minutes while you prepare the broccoli and the sauce, or up to a day in advance.
2. To cook the broccoli: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Put the broccoli on a baking sheet and drizzle with the oil. Sprinkle with the salt, then
use your hands to toss and fully coat the broccoli. Roast for 15 minutes, then carefully flip the pieces of broccoli over with tongs. Roast for
another 5 minutes, then check to see if the broccoli has a good char. If not, continue to roast, checking every 5 minutes, until well browned.
3. To make the sauce: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the garlic and ginger and cook
until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Add the oyster sauce, honey, soy sauce, water and fish sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce
the heat to medium-low and cook at a low boil for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, until thick and sticky. Stir in
the vinegar and taste for seasoning; if the sauce is too salty, thin with a little water or meat stock.
4. To cook the beef: Lay the beef on a cutting board and, if necessary, cut in half crosswise so both pieces fit into your pan. Pat dry
with paper towels, then season lightly on both sides with salt. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large cast-iron or other heavybottomed
skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Using tongs, carefully lay the beef pieces flat in the pan and sear until browned
on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Flip and brown the other side, about 3 more minutes, turning the heat down if it gets too smoky. This
may be enough to cook to our preferred medium rare (125°F); if you prefer it more well done or have a thick steak, cook for another
3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing into thin pieces against the grain (across the
fibers of the meat).
5. To serve, put the broccoli and beef on a plate and drizzle with sauce. Sprinkle with panko and lemon zest, if using. Serve immediately
with white rice or a side dish of your choice.
fall 2019 real food 5

kitchen skills
Harvest of Flavor
Celebrate tomato season with your own fresh, delicious sauce
BY JASON ROSS
As we move into autumn, is your pantry still bursting at the seams with tomatoes fresh from the vine? Have you
already made your fair share of tomato basil salads and eaten your fill of BLT sandwiches? For a delicious taste
of the season, make some seriously fresh tomato sauce. The recipes here use a simple method for making
fresh tomato sauce, and then I include two options to either add deep grilled charred flavor or some zest and spice.
Which tomatoes make the best fresh tomato sauce? Roma tomatoes or San Marzano (if you can get them) are
most commonly used for sauce since they have a low moisture content and make rich flavors. However, feel free to
use whatever tomato variety is best at the time. A flavorful tomato will make a flavorful sauce. Also, do not be afraid
to mix varieties for your sauce. Try using Roma, beefsteak and even some heirloom varieties.
Cherry and pear tomato work particularly well in the charred sauce.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
6 real food fall 2019

Fresh Tomato Sauce
MAKES 1 QUART, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Taste the difference between fresh tomato sauce and canned. Both are good and
both have their place, but now is the time to take advantage of the best tomatoes
of the year. This sauce does great with simple thin noodles such as angel hair,
spaghetti or bucatini.
¼ cup olive oil
½ onion, diced
1 rib celery, diced
½ tablespoon salt
1 clove garlic, sliced thinly
1 anchovy, finely minced
(optional, See Cook’s Note)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2½ pounds tomatoes, cores removed
and roughly chopped
½ teaspoon dry thyme
½ teaspoon dry oregano
1 bay leaf
1. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil on medium heat. Add onion, celery
and salt. Sweat for about 10 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon until soft,
but not brown.
2. Add garlic and optional anchovy, stirring for about 2 minutes, until the
garlic is fragrant and the anchovy melts into the fat.
3. Turn the heat up to medium high and add tomato paste. Cook for about
2 minutes, stirring, until the paste has changed from a bright red color to
more of a clay brick red.
4. Add the chopped tomatoes with their juices, plus the thyme, oregano and
bay leaf. Cook, stirring, until tomatoes start to break down and give up more
liquid. Bring liquid up to a boil and reduce heat to low, holding a gentle simmer
with no lid. The sauce, at this point, will be watery and thin.
5. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes on a gentle simmer, stirring a few times to prevent
scorching, until the sauce is thickened and all tomatoes fully softened. To
check the consistency, ladle a little sauce on a clean plate and observe how it
looks. Is it watery? Does it run on the plate? If so, cook the sauce a little longer.
6. Turn off the stove and allow sauce to cool for 5 to 10 minutes, until cool enough
to safely puree. Run sauce through a food mill or process in food processor.
7. Transfer sauce to containers and store in the refrigerator for up to 7 days,
or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Cook’s Note: Anchovies might seem like an odd addition to tomato sauce,
and you could skip them, but you might be surprised at what they do for your
sauce. One anchovy in a quart of tomato sauce will not turn it into anchovy
flavored sauce, but will instead add subtle flavor to the background. Think of
an anchovy as a supplement to salt rather than a central ingredient.
Variation: To make a Charred Chunky Tomato Sauce, prepare a hot grill. Put
the tomatoes directly on the grill and cook at high heat until the skins are
blackened and blistered on all sides, about 10 minutes. Place charred tomatoes
on a tray or in a bowl and wait until they are cool enough to handle.
Remove the cores and roughly chop. Make sure to save all the juices. Add
the tomatoes to the pot of sweated onion, celery, tomato paste and optional
anchovies, as in step 4 listed above. Add tomato paste and finish cooking
the sauce with the herbs. When the sauce is done, skip the food mill or processor,
and serve the sauce chunky with all the char on the blackened skins.
If you like a little spice, add some chili flakes or minced Fresno chilis to the
spices. This sauce does well with penne or orecchiette, or other shapes that
hold stew-like sauces.
Creamy Curry
Tomato Sauce
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Change fresh tomato sauce into a rich curry flavored
sauce. Simply sweat some minced aromatic
vegetables with curry spices and finish with a little
cream. Add the mixture to tomato sauce to create a
mild, creamy curry tomato sauce that’s perfect for
wide noodles such as fettuccine or pappardelle, or
try it with grilled fish or chicken.
1 tablespoon butter
½ onion, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
½ tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon coriander
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground clove
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup milk
NUTRITION
1 quart fresh tomato sauce
1. In a small sauce pan over medium heat, melt
butter and sweat onion, garlic and ginger for 2 to
3 minutes until fragrant and softened. Add spices
and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in cream and milk
and simmer for 10 minutes until thickened. Add
curry cream to 1 quart of fresh tomato sauce.
FRESH TOMATO SAUCE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 105 (71 from fat); FAT 8g (sat.
1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 519mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 2g;
PROTEIN 2g
fall 2019 real food 7

contributors
Robin Asbell spreads the
word about how truly delicious and
beautiful whole, real foods can be
through her work as an author,
cooking teacher and private chef.
She likes to create delicious dishes
that range from meat and seafood to
beans and grains using global flavors.
Her latest book is “Plant-Based
Meats.” She is also the author of
“300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your
Vitamix”; “Great Bowls of Food: Grain
Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls
and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan:
Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy,
All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”;
and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”
Lara Miklasevics began her
food career on the other side of the
camera, cooking at the renowned
New French Café in Minneapolis.
Today her work as a stylist is in
demand at corporations including
Heinz, Target and General Mills, as
well as with many magazines. She
prides herself on using her experience
as a chef to make food as appealing
on the page as it is on the plate.
Tara Q. Thomas intended to
be a chef when she trained at the
Culinary Institute of America in New
York but got sidetracked by wine.
She has been writing about it
for nearly 20 years now, most
prominently at Wine & Spirits
Magazine, where she is executive
editor. Author of “The Complete
Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics” and a
contributor to “The Oxford Companion
to Cheese” and the forthcoming
“The Oxford Companion to Spirits
and Cocktails,” she also sits on the
advisory panel for the International
Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training
Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New
York, juggling a laptop and two small
children. She still cooks nearly nightly,
albeit for a smaller crowd.
Roy Finamore is respected
throughout the food world for creating
cookbooks that are both stylish and
perfect for the home cook. He is
author of the James Beard Awardwinning
“Tasty: Get Great Food on
the Table Every Day” and coauthor of
“The Red Rooster Cookbook,” “Marcus
Off Duty” (a James Beard Award
nominee), and “Fish without a Doubt,”
among other titles. As an editor,
he introduced Ina Garten and Tom
Colicchio to the publishing world. His
other authors include Martha Stewart,
Diana Kennedy and Jacques Pépin.
8 real food fall 2019
Terry Brennan is a
photographer based in Minneapolis,
Minnesota. Clients include Target,
General Mills, Land O’Lakes and
Hormel. “Working with Real Food
is a highlight for me—I look forward
to every issue. I love working with
the creative team and, of course,
sampling the wonderful recipes.”
Jason Ross is a chef consultant
for restaurants and hotels, developing
menus and concepts for multiple high
profile properties. He trained and grew
up in New York City but now calls
St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently,
he teaches the next generation of chefs
at Saint Paul College Culinary School.
Faith Durand is editor-in-chief
of Kitchn (thekitchn.com), an online
resource for home cooks. She is the
author of several cookbooks, including
the James Beard Award-winning
“The Kitchn Cookbook” and her first
book, “Not Your Mother’s Casseroles.”
She is passionate about reimagining
cooking, eating and community in
smart, practical ways for modern life.
She lives in Columbus, Ohio, with her
husband and two toddler daughters.

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Abundance
of Apples
As the temperature dips and the
leaves change colors, my thoughts
quickly turn to some of the many
things that are great about this time of
year. Goodbye, humidity and mosquitos.
Hello, high school football and all things
apple and spice.
Despite our state’s short growing season,
Minnesota has a good climate for apple
growing because of our cold winters and
moderate summer temperatures and
humidity. Today we have more than 100
apple orchards throughout our state with
about 25 in and around the Twin Cities.
That means there are plenty of options
for embracing the season and enjoying
local apples.
If a trip to the apple orchard isn’t in your
plans this fall, visit one of our produce
departments to pick up local apples we
get from family-owned Wescott Orchards
in Elgin and Fireside Orchard & Gardens
in Northfield. While we don’t offer hayrides
or a chance to pick the apples right
from the tree, they are incredibly fresh
as they are in our stores within days of
being picked. To learn more about the
local apples you’ll find in our stores this
fall, check out our apple guide on page 10.
Not only are many apples grown in
Minnesota—nearly 20 million pounds per
year, according to the Minnesota Department
of Agriculture—but we’ve also had
some wonderful apples developed right
here in our own backyard by the University
of Minnesota. Think Honeycrisp (our
state fruit), SweeTango and First Kiss, to
name a few.
Another one of the nearly 30 apple
varieties created by the University of Minnesota
since its breeding program began
in 1888 is the Haralson. This firm, crisp
apple has a tart flavor and is perfect for
baking. We discovered just how amazing
Haralson apples are when we developed
our signature L&B Haralson Apple Pie
nearly 20 years ago.
The pie immediately became a customer
favorite and remains so today. Nearly
110,000 pounds of Haralson apples are
used every year to create these amazing
pies. The apples are mixed with our own
unique blend of spices and placed inside a
flaky, all-butter crust. If you’ve never tried
one, I can’t think of a better time than now
to embrace fall and local apples.
We hope you continue to enjoy Real
Food!
Sincerely,
Tres Lund
President and CEO
FOOD QUESTIONS?
Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400
REAL FOOD COMMENTS
Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys
bakery
Sweet Autumn
Discover fantastic fall-flavored finds in the bakery BY AMY FOUKS, DIRECTOR OF BAKERY
As the leaves begin to fall and the weather gets colder, the bold, spicy flavors of autumn start to make their way
back into the bakery. Whatever you’re craving, we’ve got it all, from traditional pies to festive treats and more.
Here are some fantastic fall finds in our bakery.
PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE
The ultimate indulgent dessert! Our
bakers make our pumpkin cheesecake with
our exclusive recipe: pumpkin puree, real
cream cheese and just a touch of molasses
results in a rich, dense cheesecake. The
sweet graham cracker crust provides a nice
contrast to the smooth filling. It’s topped
with a checkered pattern of powdered
sugar and is delicious served with a dollop
of whipped cream.
HARALSON APPLE PIE
A customer favorite! This popular pie was
created in partnership with the University
of Minnesota more than 20 years ago when
they first debuted the Haralson apple. Each
pie is made using two pounds of locally
grown Haralson apples that stay crisp—
even after baking—for the perfect bite.
The pie also features a flaky all-butter crust
and a special blend of spices to top it off.
It’s perfect served with a scoop of vanilla
ice cream and a drizzle of L&B Sea Salt
Caramel Ice Cream Topping.
PUMPKIN PIE
Baked fresh every day! Our pumpkin pie
filling starts with a delicious combination
of fresh pumpkin puree, cinnamon, cloves
and nutmeg—our exclusive recipe. It’s all
poured into our old-fashioned flaky crust
and baked to perfection. We love it served
with a big dollop of whipped cream—or
for a fun variation, try maple-flavored or
ginger-flavored whipped cream.
10 real food fall 2019

Guide to
Minnesota Apples
Honeycrisp
Extremely crisp and
juicy with a balanced,
sweet-tart flavor. Best
eaten fresh, used in
baking or for applesauce.
(Available late September).
First Kiss
This new apple is lightly
tart and aromatic with
a super crisp texture.
Eat out of hand or add
to a snack tray or salad.
(Available mid-August).
Zestar
This apple has a
sweet-tart taste with
hints of brown sugar.
The light, crisp texture
results in a nice crunch.
Best enjoyed on its own.
(Available early
September).
SweeTango
This apple is crisp and
sweet with a lively touch
of citrus and honey and a
subtle hint of spice. Best
eaten fresh. (Available
early September).
RiverBelle
Crisp and juicy, the
RiverBelle is equal parts
sweet and acidic, which
results in a delicate
flavor. Best eaten fresh.
(Available in August).
McIntosh
This bright red apple
has a rich flavor and
tender texture that
softens when cooked.
Enjoy in applesauce, pies
or on its own. (Available
late September).
Haralson
This firm, crisp apple
has a juicy, tart flavor
and red color. Perfect
for eating fresh or
making pies or
applesauce. (Available
late September or
early October).
Pazazz
This late-season apple
has a sweet yet tart
flavor with a huge
crunch. It’s delicious
used in pies or other
baking. (Available late
October).
Sweet Sixteen
This late-season apple
is rose red in color with
a sugary taste and fine
texture. Best enjoyed
in applesauce or eating
fresh. (Available late
September).

Lunds & Byerlys
meal solutions
Sheet Pan Suppers
Cook a healthy, family friendly meal–and avoid the dreaded dish washing–by trying
one of our simple sheet pan suppers
Chicken and Sweet Potatoes Sheet Pan Supper
Chicken and Sweet MAKES Potatoes 4 SERVINGS Sheet Pan Supper
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This easy meat-and-potatoes dinner is perfect for busy weeknights.
This easy meat-and-potatoes dinner is perfect for busy weeknights.
2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs
salt and pepper, to taste
2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs 1 (14-ounce) container L&B Sweet 1. Potato Heat oven Cubes to 350°F. L&B Line Chicken a sheet & pan Turkey with Poultry foil.
1 (14-ounce) container L&B Sweet 2 tablespoons Potato Cubes olive oil
2. Place chicken thighs Seasoning the sheet to pan. taste Boneless chicken
2 tablespoons olive oil
thighs will work, too. Just reduce the cooking time for the chicken,
with as it foil. will cook much faster without bones.
salt and pepper, to taste 1. Heat oven to 350°F. Line a sheet pan
L&B Chicken & Turkey Poultry 2. Place Seasoning chicken to thighs taste on the sheet 3. pan. Add Boneless cubed sweet chicken potatoes. thighs will Drizzle work, with too. olive Just oil. reduce the
cooking time for the chicken, as it will 4. cook Season much with faster salt without and pepper bones. to taste and sprinkle with L&B
3. Add cubed sweet potatoes. Drizzle Chicken with olive & oil. Turkey Poultry Seasoning.
4. Season with salt and pepper to taste 5. and Bake sprinkle about 35 with minutes, L&B Chicken or until & Turkey chicken Poultry is brown Seasoning. and reaches
5. Bake about 35 minutes, or until chicken 165°F is with brown a meat and thermometer reaches 165°F and with the a potatoes meat thermometer are tender.
and the potatoes are tender.
12 real food fall 2019

Lunds & Byerlys
meal solutions
Sheet Pan Roasted Sausages
with Peppers and Onions
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
The sausages are roasted directly on top of the peppers and onions, so
the vegetables can absorb all the juices, and then everything is served
on a bed of fresh arugula.
1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips
1 small onion, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for sprinkling
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound sausages, pricked with a fork
½ teaspoon red wine vinegar, plus more for sprinkling
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano
fresh arugula, for serving (optional)
2 ounces ricotta salata, crumbled (about ⅓ cup)
1. Heat oven to 400°F.
2. In a bowl, toss the peppers and onion with the oil, salt and black
pepper. Spread the vegetables out in a single layer on a rimmed sheet
pan and roast until they are tender but not caramelized, about 10 to
15 minutes.
3. Arrange the sausages on top of the peppers and onion. Continue
roasting until the peppers are caramelized and the sausages are
cooked through, about 8 to 10 minutes. If the sausages and/or peppers
are not browned enough at this point, you can slide the whole pan
under the broiler for 1 or 2 minutes. Watch it carefully so it doesn’t burn.
4. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the vinegar and oregano.
5. Before serving, toss the peppers and onion with the vinegar mixture.
Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary (it might need more vinegar
if your onion is very sweet). If you are using the arugula, divide
it among individual serving plates and sprinkle with a little olive oil
and a few drops of red wine vinegar. Arrange the peppers, onions
and sausages over the arugula. Sprinkle with the cheese and serve.
Sheet Pan Mini Meatloaves
with Green Beans and Potatoes
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
You can make this hearty meat-and-potatoes meal on one sheet
pan for easy cleanup.
1½ pounds fingerling or gold creamer potatoes,
quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
salt, to taste
2 pounds lean ground beef
1 tablespoon garlic powder
½ yellow onion, finely chopped
½ cup plain bread crumbs
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons barbecue sauce
1 pound green beans, trimmed
1. Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the center position.
2. Toss the potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet with 1 tablespoon
of the olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Spread them
evenly, then set a wire rack on top.
3. In a large bowl, gently combine the beef, garlic powder,
onion, bread crumbs and ¾ cup barbecue sauce. Shape the
mixture into 4 small loaves and place them on the wire rack
over the potatoes.
4. Bake the potatoes and meatloaves for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss the green beans with the remaining olive
oil and a pinch of salt.
5. Remove the pan from the oven. Brush the loaves with
the remaining barbecue sauce and scatter the green beans
around them. Return the pan to the oven and bake about
12 minutes more, until the potatoes and beans are tender and
a thermometer inserted into a meatloaf registers 150°F.
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13

Lunds & Byerlys
what’s in store
REPUBLIC OF TEA BEAUTIFYING
BOTANICALS TEAS
Sip and nourish your skin from the inside out. Republic of Tea’s Beautifying
Botanicals teas are hydrating, violet-hued herbal infusions containing a
proprietary blend of botanicals that can help improve your complexion.
Both varieties—daily beauty blueberry lavender and beauty sleep chamomile
rose tea—are made with collagen-promoting blue butterfly pea flower, hydrating
hibiscus and skin-protecting schizandra.
Did you know? These aromatic blends are caffeine-free, which means
you can indulge in a bedtime beauty ritual with a calming, nourishing cup of tea.
A squeeze of lemon adds a bright flavor and a beautiful color.
DARLING PICKLE DIPS
Darling Foods is a women-owned and operated business run by
a pair of best friends. They hand make their Darling Pickle Dips
in Minneapolis by blending zesty pickled vegetables with cream
cheese and white beans to create a spreadable, snackable and
even recipe-building dip! Flavors include original dill pickle, white
cheddar with mustard and spicy pickle.
Tip: Try your favorite dip smeared on a BLT or burger. Or put a
twist on guacamole by combining two mashed avocados with
a tub of spicy pickle dip and a pinch of salt. Yum!
MUTTI TOMATO
PRODUCTS
Since 1899, the Mutti family has been growing tomatoes in Parma, Italy.
The recipe for their long success is simple—just sun, soil and rain. The
key to their unique taste is their painstaking selection of the ripest Italian
tomatoes, which are processed within 24 hours of being picked. Offerings
include double- and triple-concentrated tomato paste, cherry tomatoes,
peeled whole tomatoes, finely chopped tomatoes and tomato puree.
Did you know? Mutti is the No. 1 brand of tomato products in Italy.
14 real food fall 2019

Lunds & Byerlys
what’s in store
DE NIGRIS BALSAMIC VINEGARS
For more than three generations, the De Nigris family has dedicated itself to
the production of vinegar. Their high-quality products are made in Modena,
Italy from a blend of wine vinegar and concentrated grape must from seven
regional varietals of grapes. The quality of their vinegars stems from their
immense care taken during every step of the process, from growing grapes
to harvesting and bottling.
Tip: The bronze balsamic is perfect for cold dishes and marinades.
The high-density platinum balsamic is thick and intense, making it great
for gourmet dishes like risotto. And the gold balsamic is dense and fragrant,
which is wonderful paired with braised meats and fine cheeses.
KITU SUPER
ESPRESSO
Whether you need a boost of
energy for a workout, to power
through a study session or to
keep up with the kids, KITU
Super Espresso provides some
of the cleanest energy on the
shelf. With just 40 calories,
0 grams of sugar and 5 grams
of protein, it’s the perfect
pick-me-up without all the
guilt. Super Espresso flavors include original, vanilla and caramel.
Did you know? KITU was founded by three brothers—Jordan,
Jake and Jimmy. Each Super Espresso has three shots of espresso
representing the three brothers, which equals 180 mg of caffeine.
L&B FROZEN
VEGETABLES
Our new L&B Frozen Vegetables are
delicious, on-trend offerings made
with only the very best ingredients.
Each convenient variety takes just
minutes to heat and is a nutritious
alternative to traditional grain and
starch side dishes and entrées. Choose
from scrumptious mashed cauliflower,
broccoli & cheese, mashed cauliflower,
zucchini spirals, butternut squash
spirals, mixed vegetable spirals,
riced medley of broccoli, carrot &
cauliflower, riced cauliflower stir fry
and Mediterranean riced cauliflower.
Tip: Try the L&B Mixed Vegetable Spirals
in a batch of homemade soup or swap
out pasta with L&B Butternut Squash
Spirals during spaghetti night!
LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

ingredient
Cauliflower Craze
This versatile vegetable has been showing up as pizza crust,
rice and steaks on plates all across the country
CAULIFLOWER YURAKP - ADOBE STOCK
BY ANNA BJORLIN
A
few years ago, who would have
believed cauliflower would
become the superstar it is today?
Gone are the days of plain, unseasoned
and too-often boiled florets. Instead,
chefs are adding cauliflower to curries,
soups and mac ‘n cheese, even going
so far as to transform the previously
dull vegetable into upscale dishes such
as soufflés and risotto.
An extremely healthy vegetable,
cauliflower is low in calories, high in
vitamins, a very good source of fiber,
and a significant source of minerals and
omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains
unique plant compounds that studies have
shown may help reduce the risk of heart
disease and stroke—two of the five leading
causes of death in the country. In addition,
this cruciferous vegetable is a favorite
among vegetarians, vegans, gluten-sensitive
eaters and dieters alike because it
provides a wealth of alternative low-carb,
protein-based options. The ample amount
of fiber it contains also helps slow digestion
and promote feelings of fullness, which
can contribute to reducing the number of
calories you eat throughout the day.
And the best part? It’s very easy to add
to your diet. Roast it in a side dish, pickle
it and add it in a salad, mash it to replace
potatoes (check out our recipe for Creamy
Garlic Mashed Cauliflower on page 51),
and even deep-fry it in buffalo sauce for a
chicken-wing substitute. From pizza dough
(pulse it in a food processor) to rice (grate
and sauté it), all the way to the soft, chewy
brownies you see pictured here, it seems
there’s no end to the delicious and unique
ways cauliflower can be used.
Cauliflower Brownies with
Salted Coconut Caramel Sauce
MAKES 16 BROWNIES
12 ounces cauliflower, leaves and For the Salted Caramel Sauce
core removed, cut into florets 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
1 cup medjool dates, stones
5½ ounces coconut sugar
removed
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste
1 tablespoon coconut oil
2 tablespoons espresso coffee
½ teaspoon sea salt
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1 cup white spelt flour
½ cup hazelnuts, ground, plus extra to garnish
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
½ tablespoon ground flaxseeds
generous 1/3 cup dark/bittersweet chocolate chips
coconut chips, to garnish (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch square cake pan and line with
parchment paper and set aside.
2. First, make the caramel sauce by bringing the coconut milk and coconut sugar
to a boil in a pan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and
then, stirring occasionally, continue to simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the
mixture becomes thick and syrupy. Remove from the heat and vigorously stir
in the vanilla, coconut oil and salt. Transfer to a glass jar or container and put in
the freezer for about an hour, or until the mixture thickens.
3. Place a colander over a pan of simmering water. Add the cauliflower florets
and cover with a lid. Steam for 20 minutes or until tender, then leave to cool.
Put the cauliflower in a blender and blitz
with the dates, vanilla paste, coffee and
maple syrup.
4. In a bowl, combine the flour, ground
hazelnuts, cocoa powder and flaxseeds.
Stir in the cauliflower mixture until combined.
Fold in the chocolate chips and
spoon into the lined cake pan. Bake for
20 minutes, until the brownies feel firm
to the touch. Remove from the oven and
leave to cool in the pan. Cut into squares
and drizzle with the caramel sauce to
serve. Garnish with extra hazelnuts and
coconut chips, if you like.
RECIPE AND PHOTO FROM “CAULIFLOWER POWER: VEGETARIAN & VEGAN RECIPES TO NOURISH AND SATISFY”
BY KATHY KORDALIS ©2019 COURTESY OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTO BY MOWIE KAY.
fall 2019 real food 17

healthy
habits
Gut Feeling
To cut through an overload of information on gut health, here are
some pointers for eating without upsetting your stomach
BY ERIK TORMOEN
If your stomach is sensitive, hopefully you realize it’s also
pretty amazing.
The human gut developed during our hunter-gatherer
period, some 1.8 million years ago. We ate simply—meats,
leaves, nuts, fruits. Then, within the relative blip of 10,000
years, our food changed dramatically, as described in
“Cooking for the Sensitive Gut” by nutritionist Joan Ransley
and gastroenterologist Nick Read.
We started cultivating grasses for flour, preserving spoils for
winter, and cooking things for taste and digestion. Industrial
farming worldwide let us eat out of season. Food became more
plentiful, more diverse and more processed.
Meanwhile, the old gastrointestinal tract—a 20- to 30-foot
tube that works overtime as a “chopper, mixer, digester,
extractor and salvage system in one,” as described by Ransley
and Read—still hasn’t caught up.
Thus, some of us deal with digestion-interferent disorders,
diseases and intolerances. They include irritable bowel
syndrome (IBS), celiac disease, Crohn’s disease, ulcerative
colitis, gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) and lactose
intolerance. Direct causes range from multi-factorial to
relatively unknown. Still others of us report frequent inflammation,
bloating, stomachaches, constipation, diarrhea and other
bouts of digestive discomfort unrelated to disease.
“Many times, there’s not a one-size-fits-all solution,
unfortunately,” says Mary Wirtz, a clinical registered dietitian
at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minnesota. As research comes
in about gut microbiomes, we’re still discovering how our
stomachs’ unique bacterial ecosystems work. Until then, there
are simple ways to address digestion issues that cut through
the noise of gluten-free, dairy-free, big-diet advisories.
1. CUT DOWN ON PROCESSED, SUGAR-ADDED FOODS
AND SATURATED FAT. Yep, you guessed it. These are the big
offenders. Concentrated sweets include the obvious—pastries,
candy, sugar-sweetened beverages—and the less obvious,
like granola. Added, refined sugars can cause painful gut
inflammation. Without significant fiber, they also do nothing to
aid digestion. Saturated fat, found in regular-fat dairy products
as well as red and processed meats, can also provoke flare-ups.
2. GET 3 TO 5 SERVINGS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
PER DAY. “From an anti-inflammatory perspective, we really
promote more of a Mediterranean-type diet, where the
predominate basis is plant-based,” Wirtz says. Fiber-rich
fruits and veggies move digestion along—but, of course,
don’t go overboard. Those with histories of abdominal bloating
and diarrhea risk exacerbating those symptoms by adding
too much fiber too fast.
3. TAKE THE TEMPORARY-ELIMINATION APPROACH.
Wirtz sees many patients who come in blaming gluten for
their stomach issues. Usually, she says, the trigger is not
the gluten—a cereal-grain protein often found in convenient
sources of fiber, vitamins and minerals—but the refined sugar,
saturated fat or added salt.
Still, the gut works in mysterious ways. Those who can’t pin
down a diagnosis can try eliminating one suspect for two to
three weeks. They might target wheat, dairy, acidic foods or
anything else. After removing the ingredient for 14 to 21 days,
reintroduce it into your diet and pay attention to how you feel.
4. STAY ON TOP OF LOST NUTRIENTS. “With dairy, similar
to gluten, people at times can unnecessarily cut it out,”
Wirtz says. “But,” she adds, “there’s no reason why dairy is
PHOTO SEWCREAM - ADOBE STOCK
18 real food fall 2019

necessary.” If you opt to remove dairy, just pay attention to
the nutrients you’re losing, such as calcium, vitamin D and
protein, and add them elsewhere. Those who eliminate gluten
can turn to quinoa for protein, fiber and microminerals.
5. CONSIDER PROBIOTICS. After taking out added sugar
and saturated fat, introducing more fruits and veggies, and
conducting trial eliminations, those with continuing stomach
issues can try foods rich in probiotics. These microorganisms
live in the gut, and we often think of them as “good bacteria”—
potentially replacing “bad bacteria” and helping with common
symptoms of IBS. Fermented foods that ferry probiotics include
sauerkraut, kimchi and kombucha. Be careful with kefir, a
cultured yogurt drink, Wirtz says; the stuff you buy at the store
sometimes comes with added sugar to mask its sourness.
6. MAKE CHANGES GRADUALLY. Your GI tract needs time to
adjust to dietary drama stirred up by additions and subtractions.
“Let’s say you go from zero grams of dietary fiber per day
to 30,” Wirtz says. “That can either back you up or clean you out
really quickly.” The same goes for cutting sugars, adding fruits
and veggies, and introducing fermented foods.
7. GOT HIVES, FLUSHING OR HEADACHES? Test against
potential protein triggers to rule out allergies, and then
see if you’re right for a low-histamine diet. Histamine is a
compound that regulates inflammation and itching released
in response to allergens. It’s found in many foods, such as
yogurt, shellfish, avocados and nuts.
8. “IN MODERATION” IS A RELATIVE TERM—although it’s
become sweet-tooths’ saving grace. “For some people, that
moderation may be two Cokes a day versus 10,” Wirtz says.
“In my opinion, that’s still excessive.” Instead, think “infrequently.”
Make it a special treat for a special occasion.
9. SEE A PROFESSIONAL. “I don’t recommend unnecessarily
cutting out foods from your diet unless you feel that it’s really
contributing to an intolerance,” Wirtz stresses. “Because,
oftentimes, those are just foods that provide a lot of good
vitamins and minerals that our bodies need from a healthprevention
perspective.” Since everyone’s gut is different,
tracking it with a dietitian can help rule out courses of
action. That way, you’re not stuck on the low-FODMAP diet,
a restrictive plan often recommended for IBS that limits
fermentable carbs. “It just makes their life more tedious,”
Wirtz says, “because you’re having to plan around that and
cook around that and eat out around that.”
Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns
or before making any major dietary changes.
Baked White Fish with
Crunchy Pine Nut, Parmesan
and Basil Crust
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
A flavored breadcrumb crust can transform a humble piece
of fish into a first-class tasty dish. Always use really fresh
fish if you can get it. As for breadcrumbs, you can use
gluten-free or sourdough if you prefer, but you should be
comfortable with small quantities of one-day-old white
bread (one slice per person).
1/3 cup pine nuts, slightly crushed
1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
4 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese
4 tablespoons chopped basil leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
4 (4-ounce) white fish fillets, such as cod,
haddock or hake
2 tablespoons white wine
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Mix together the pine nuts, breadcrumbs, Parmesan,
basil, salt and pepper to taste, and 2 tablespoons of the
olive oil in a small bowl.
3. Remove any pin bones from the fish and rinse under cold
water. Pat the fillets dry with paper towel.
4. Brush an ovenproof dish with the remaining olive oil. Lay
the fish fillets in the dish and sprinkle with the wine. Cover
with the breadcrumbs and cook for about 10 minutes, or
until the topping is golden brown and crunchy.
PHOTO AND RECIPE FROM “COOKING FOR THE SENSITIVE GUT” BY
DR. JOAN RANSLEY AND DR. NICK READ ©2019 REPRINTED WITH
PERMISSION OF COLLINS & BROWN. PHOTO BY JOAN RANSLEY.
fall 2019 real food 19

Haute Dishes
Elevate comforting casseroles with a sprinkling
of sophisticated touches and nary a can of soup in sight
BY FAITH DURAND
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

CHICKEN ORZO FLORENTINE
(RECIPE PAGE 27)
LEFT: BAKED PENNE ALLA VODKA
(RECIPE PAGE 23)
fall 2019 real food 21

BAKED RISOTTO
WITH LEMON SHRIMP
22 real food fall 2019

Casseroles represent the best of cooking: They are generous and feed a multitude, they are thrifty and make-ahead,
and they always please a crowd. But they can also fall victim to a punchline in a joke about old-fashioned, heavy
food. Are casseroles too dowdy and down-home to serve to company? No! It’s time to put hotdish jokes to bed because
these recipes show how classy a casserole can be. These bakes are best-in-class with more vegetables, no canned soups
and plenty of sophisticated charm. From a vibrant Mediterranean pasta bake to oven risotto with a tangle of lemon
shrimp, these are casseroles that truly do it all and look gorgeous on any table.
Baked Risotto with Lemon Shrimp
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
If I could pick one casserole to serve to company, this would be it. The
oven makes a dreamy, easy risotto that is hands-off, with no stirring
required. The rice is still tender and al dente, with a creamy, herbflecked
sauce. The shrimp are broiled right on top of the risotto for
a really spectacular presentation and easy serving.
1 lemon
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 small white onion (8 ounces), diced
2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine such as a Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio
5 cups low-sodium chicken broth, divided
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 pound uncooked shrimp, deveined with tails,
thawed and drained
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup frozen peas
1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, plus more to garnish
1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Use a vegetable peeler to peel the lemon,
reserving the peel. Juice the lemon and reserve.
2. Place a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven or pot over medium heat and
melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Gently cook the onion and garlic
until fragrant and softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and cook,
stirring frequently, for another 2 minutes or until the grains of rice
are translucent at the edges.
3. Raise the heat to medium and pour in the wine. Cook for about
1 minute, stirring constantly, or until it has mostly evaporated.
Add 4 cups of broth, 1 teaspoon of salt, and the reserved lemon
peel. Bring to a simmer, then cover with a lid and bake for
18 minutes.
4. While the risotto is baking, prep the shrimp. Toss the shrimp in a
large bowl with the lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and
a generous amount of black pepper.
5. Remove the lid of the Dutch oven and stir in the remaining
1 cup broth, Parmesan cheese, peas and Italian parsley.
6. Turn the oven to broil. Arrange the shrimp on top of the risotto and
broil uncovered for 5 minutes or until the shrimp is pink and cooked
through. Garnish with additional parsley and serve immediately.
Baked Penne alla Vodka
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This pasta bake is everything my Italian-American husband
wants in a pasta bake: creamy red sauce (left a little chunky
for a satisfyingly meaty tomato texture), al dente penne (it
cooks right in the oven, in its sauce), and a crispy, delicate
layer of prosciutto hovering on top for an impressive finish.
16 ounces uncooked penne pasta
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 garlic cloves, roughly minced
2 (28-ounce) cans of diced tomatoes
with their juices
1/2 cup vodka
2 cups cream
2 teaspoons salt
freshly ground black pepper
11/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided
4 ounces prosciutto, cut with scissors into
rough pieces or strips
olive oil
finely chopped Italian parsley, to garnish
1. Heat the oven to 400°F and grease a 9x13-inch baking
dish with baking spray or olive oil. Spread the penne in
the dish.
2. Melt the butter in a deep sauté pan or 4-quart pot and
cook the garlic over low heat until fragrant and soft, about
3 minutes. Pour in the tomatoes with their juices and bring
to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the vodka and cook for another 2 minutes.
3. Whisk in the cream and bring back to a simmer. Cook
for 1 minute then remove from the heat. Whisk in the salt
and a generous quantity of black pepper, along with 1 cup
of Parmesan cheese.
4. Pour the sauce over the penne and stir. Cover the baking
dish tightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove
the foil and turn the oven to broil. Cover the top of the
pasta dish with the cut strips of prosciutto and drizzle
lightly with olive oil. Broil for 5 minutes or until the prosciutto
is crisp.
5. Top with the remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and Italian
parsley to garnish. Serve immediately.
fall 2019 real food 23

Ham and Gruyère Potato Gratin
MAKES 6 SERVINGS AS A MAIN DISH
Ham and potato casserole is an absolute bedrock of casserole culture.
How many times have you seen this classic on a potluck table? I love the
old-school version, but I also think that a potato casserole lends itself
beautifully to a more upscale interpretation. I substitute a brown-butter
white sauce for the can of soup, and fresh potatoes for frozen (slicing
them gratin-style classes this up, too). Caramelized onions, whole-grain
mustard and rosemary level-up the flavor for a ham and potato bake that
deserves to be the star of a dinner party.
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 large white onion (1 pound), cut into quarter moons
21/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced rosemary, from 1 large sprig
1/3 cup flour
3 cups whole milk
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
3/4 pound thickly-sliced ham, roughly torn or chopped
1/2 pound shredded Gruyère cheese, divided
3 pounds russet potatoes, well-scrubbed
finely-chopped Italian parsley, to garnish
1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with baking
spray or butter.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet. Stir in the onions and
sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt. Cook on medium heat (lower the heat
if onions begin to crisp or burn on edges), stirring occasionally, until
onions are light brown and caramelized, about 20 minutes. Near the
end of cooking, stir in the garlic and rosemary.
3. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a 3-quart
saucepan over medium heat. Let the butter brown until it smells toasty
and darkens in color. Remove from the heat and rapidly whisk in the
flour; it will clump up into thick, oily crumbs. Pour in about ½ cup of
milk, whisking vigorously, then return to the heat and slowly whisk in
the rest of the milk, beating each time until the mixture is relatively
smooth. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat. The sauce will
be the consistency of a thin batter. Stir in a generous quantity of black
pepper as well as the mustard.
4. Scrape the white sauce into a large bowl and stir in the caramelized
onions, ham and half of the shredded Gruyère cheese. Cut each
potato lengthwise, then use a mandoline or very sharp knife to slice
about ¼-inch thick. Stir into the white sauce as the potatoes are sliced.
5. Spread the potatoes and sauce evenly in the prepared dish and
sprinkle the remaining Gruyère over the top. Cover tightly with foil. Bake
45 minutes. Remove foil and bake an additional 25 to 35 minutes or
until potatoes are tender. Turn oven to broil and broil for 5 minutes or
until top browns and edges bubble. Sprinkle lightly with finely chopped
parsley to garnish. It may look soupy but will firm up quickly as it cools.
Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.
24 real food fall 2019

HAM AND GRUYÈRE
POTATO GRATIN
fall 2019 real food 25

26 real food fall 2019
SAUCY WHITE BEAN
AND SAUSAGE BAKE

Saucy White Bean
and Sausage Bake
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This hearty bake is a fresher take on the casserole as comfort
food, turning to beans as its main protein and folding in a colorful
mix of red pepper and kale. Its zingy flavors and crispy
top make this great to eat on its own, as a sort of oven stew, or
you can serve it over pasta, rice or a bowl of steamed greens.
3 (15-ounce) cans cannellini or Great Northern
beans, drained
12 ounces chicken andouille sausage, sliced into
diagonal half-moons
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 small onion (8 ounces), roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 (12-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained
and roughly chopped
3 ounces baby kale, roughly chopped
1 lemon, juiced
2 teaspoons kosher salt
freshly-ground black pepper
1 (24-ounce) jar marinara sauce
11/3 cups grated Parmesan cheese, divided
2 tablespoons coarse cornmeal
⅔ cup breadcrumbs
1. Heat oven to 400°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with
baking spray or olive oil. Spread the drained beans in the
baking dish.
2. Sear the chicken sausage in a large skillet over mediumhigh
heat until browned, then turn down the heat and stir in
the olive oil. Cook the onion and garlic until fragrant, 3 to 5
minutes. Stir in the red peppers and the chopped kale and
cook for about 1 minute or until wilted. Stir in the lemon juice
and salt, and a generous amount of fresh pepper.
3. Stir the contents of the skillet into the dish of beans. Stir in
the marinara sauce. Add 2/3 cup Parmesan and the cornmeal.
4. In a small bowl mix the breadcrumbs and the remaining
2/3 cup Parmesan with a generous glug of olive oil. Mix with
fingers until the texture of wet sand. Strew over top of the
beans and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Bake uncovered for
30 minutes or until browned and bubbling.
Chicken Orzo Florentine
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Sun-dried tomatoes, capers, lemon, olives: This pasta bake is a
fabulous mix of all the Mediterranean flavors I love. You don’t even
have to cook the pasta ahead. It absorbs all of those tastes and bakes
to perfectly al dente in the oven.
16 ounces uncooked orzo pasta
1/4 cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
5 ounces baby spinach, roughly chopped
1/4 cup capers
1/4 cup chopped green olives
12 ounces uncooked chicken breast, cut into fine strips,
1 to 2 inches long
1 lemon, zested and juiced
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
11/2 teaspoons salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 ounces Parmesan, roughly grated or shaved with
a peeler into long thin strips
1. Heat the oven to 350°F and grease a 9x13-inch baking dish
with baking spray or olive oil. Spread the orzo in the greased dish.
2. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and toast the pine nuts,
stirring frequently and watching closely to make sure they toast
to a dark tan color but do not burn, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir the
pine nuts into the orzo.
3. Return the skillet to medium heat. Heat the olive oil and cook
the garlic and sun-dried tomatoes until soft and fragrant, about
3 minutes. Stir in the chopped baby spinach and cook in handfuls
until lightly wilted. Remove the pan from the heat and stir
its contents into the orzo. Stir the capers, chopped green olives
and pieces of chicken breast into the orzo as well. Sprinkle the
lemon zest on top.
4. Heat the chicken broth to boiling, then whisk in the lemon juice,
Dijon mustard, salt and a generous quantity of black pepper. Pour
gently over the orzo. Cover the pan tightly with foil. Bake for 25 to
30 minutes, or until pasta is just al dente (it will still look saucy).
5. Remove the foil and turn the oven to broil. Sprinkle the Parmesan
on top and broil for 2 to 3 minutes or until cheese is melted and
the edges are crispy. Serve immediately.
NUTRITION
BAKED PENNE ALLA VODKA:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 820 (380
from fat); FAT 43g (sat. 25g); CHOL
135mg; SODIUM 1701mg; CARB 78g;
FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 28g
BAKED RISOTTO
W. LEMON SHRIMP:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 629 (162
from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 10g); CHOL
173mg; SODIUM 1757mg; CARB 78g;
FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 35g
HAM & GRUYÈRE
POTATO GRATIN:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 652 (290
from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 18g); CHOL
114mg; SODIUM 1955mg; CARB 57g;
FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 33g
SAUCY WHITE BEAN
& SAUSAGE BAKE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 599 (229
from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 8g); CHOL
50mg; SODIUM 2299mg; CARB 62g;
FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 33g
CHICKEN ORZO FLORENTINE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 572 (147
from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 4g); CHOL
42mg; SODIUM 1164mg; CARB 72g;
FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 34g
fall 2019 real food 27

Gorgeous
Gourds
Five deliciously different ways to enjoy winter squash
BY ROBIN ASBELL
28 real food fall 2019

The sweet, brilliantly colored flesh
of squash is one of the nutrition
superstars in your kitchen. The
color comes from carotenoids,
which are antioxidant compounds
that protect your health on a
cellular level. Vitamins A, B and
C hide in that delicious, creamy
squash. It’s even high in fiber and
pectin, which stabilize blood sugar
and make you feel full longer.
Left to right: spaghetti, delicata,
acorn, butternut and kabocha
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
fall 2019 real food 29

CREAMY SQUASH SOUP
WITH SHERRY, THYME AND
SPICED PUMPKIN SEEDS
30 real food fall 2019

Why does pumpkin get all the
attention? It takes center stage
in our favorite Thanksgiving pie, and
pumpkin spice flavors are everywhere in
muffins, coffee and more. It’s enough to
give all the squash siblings a self-esteem
problem. It’s time to give the rest of the
squash family some face time. If you are
a fan of pumpkin, you are already a fan
of squash, which is in the same gourd
family. Fall is when all those gorgeous
gourds are in season and stores will have
the widest selections.
The squash we see this time of year
is known as winter squash, which gets
its name from being a good “keeper.”
It’s harvested in fall, and if left in a
cool room, will keep all winter. After it’s
picked, the squash cures for a couple of
weeks to let the skin harden into natural
“packaging,” sealing in the freshness
better than a plastic wrapper ever could.
Most winter squash have inedible skins,
but a few, like the sweet dumpling,
carnival, delicata and kabocha have
thinner skin that can be eaten.
There are two ways to approach your
squash. One is to simply cut it in half,
scoop out the seeds and bake it on an
oiled sheet pan. Then, you can scoop
out the flesh to make purees for use
in recipes from soup to cheesecake.
The second way is to peel and cube the
squash. It’s a little more work, but you’ll
love those meltingly tender chunks of
squash in pastas, curries and stews.
Creamy Squash Soup with Sherry,
Thyme and Spiced Pumpkin Seeds
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The sweet, nutty flavors in squash are accentuated by the addition of
dry sherry, which lends a savory depth to the creamy soup. The crunchy
pumpkin seed topping adds a spicy flavor boost and texture to the
smooth soup.
2 cups squash puree from 2 pounds butternut squash
2 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
2 tablespoons flour
11/2 cups whole milk
6 tablespoons dry sherry
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon salt
For the Pumpkin Seed Garnish
1 teaspoon canola oil
1 cup shelled pumpkin seeds
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut squash in half, scoop out the seeds
and place, cut side down, on an oiled sheet pan. Bake for 40 minutes
to 1 hour, until the squash is tender when pierced with a paring knife.
Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and use a spatula to turn the hot
halves over, which will help them cool faster.
2. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and place in a food
processor bowl. Puree until smooth, then measure 2 cups for this recipe.
If there is a little extra, refrigerate and save for another use.
3. In a large pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat, then add the
onion and thyme. Stir until the onion starts to sizzle, then reduce the
heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle
the flour over the onion mixture and stir to mix well, then cook for 3 to
4 minutes, stirring, to cook the flour. Take the pot off the heat and whisk
in about 1/2 cup of the milk. When it is incorporated, whisk in the rest of
the milk and then the sherry. Return to medium heat and whisk occasionally
until the mixture thickens slightly and starts to bubble around
the edges. Whisk in the squash puree, cayenne and salt and stir until
heated through. Serve with pumpkin seed garnish.
4. For the pumpkin seed garnish: Heat the oil for 1 minute in a medium
non-stick skillet. Add the pumpkin seeds and toss in the pan over
high heat until the seeds are popping and browning, about 3 minutes.
Remove from heat, add the brown sugar and toss constantly until seeds
are coated with melted sugar (careful—it can burn easily). Quickly mix
in the spices and salt, then spread on a plate to cool. Cool completely
and store in an airtight container until ready to use. It can be made up
to 1 week ahead.
fall 2019 real food 31

SPAGHETTI SQUASH WITH SHRIMP,
LEMON AND SPINACH
32 real food fall 2019

SPAGHETTI SQUASH AFRICA STUDIO - ADOBE STOCK
Spaghetti Squash with Shrimp,
Lemon and Spinach
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
For those days when you want more veggies than carbs, spaghetti squash
is your answer. Here, the tender strands get tossed with garlicky, lemony
butter for a sensation that feels like scampi, but better. Spinach and
tomatoes add color and even more tasty veggies to the meal.
3 pounds spaghetti squash, about 4 cups, cooked
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups baby spinach, chopped
1 cup grape tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
2. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place
the squash, cut side down, on the pan. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes. To
check for doneness, take the pan out of the oven, turn a squash half
over and then insert a paring knife into the flesh along one side and try
to separate the strands. If the squash does not separate easily, place
it cut side down again and bake 10 minutes longer.
3. When the squash can be broken into strands easily, remove from
oven, turn the halves cut side up, and cool on a rack. When cool, scrape
out the strands and measure 4 cups for this dish.
4. Prep the shrimp and pat dry. In a large skillet, melt the butter over
medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and stir, cooking until the shrimp
are pink. Add the garlic, lemon zest and red pepper flakes and stir for
1 minute. Stir in the spaghetti squash and salt and toss until the squash
is heated through. Add the spinach and tomatoes and stir into the
mixture, cooking until the spinach wilts. Sprinkle with Parmesan and
toss to coat. Serve hot.
SCRAPING SPAGHETTI
SQUASH STRANDS
SQUASH VARIETIES
Acorn: Deeply lobed and pointed at the
blossom end, these small squashes are often
halved and baked, then topped with butter
and brown sugar. Their flesh is pale orange or
yellow, and smooth textured for easy eating.
Buttercup: Squat, blocky and streaked with
greens and greys, the buttercup hides a
rounded “cup” on the blossom end. Sweet,
nutty flesh is smooth and meaty, and drier
than some squashes.
Butternut: The tan-colored squash with
smooth, bright orange flesh is one of the
most popular varieties. Moist, sweet and mild,
it’s easy to peel and good in most recipes.
Delicata: Small and oblong, these are
streaked with white, yellow, orange and green
on their thin, tender skin. Their flesh is sweet
and a little denser and drier than acorns
and butternuts.
Hubbard: The Hubbard can be a 40-pound
blue-skinned behemoth, although new
varieties are smaller. Rich, meaty flesh and
deep orange color make it a popular one.
They are often cut in chunks and wrapped
so you can get a smaller portion.
Kabocha: Sometimes called a Japanese
pumpkin, this squat, round squash is streaked
with greens and greys. A favorite for Asian
dishes, it has dense, meaty flesh that holds
its shape in a curry or stew.
Red Kuri: Very similar to kabocha, the
squash’s dark orange skin and teardrop shape
give it curb appeal for days.
Spaghetti: This is the odd man out, with pale
yellow skin and flesh that falls apart into
spaghetti-like strands. The key to working with
this squash is to not overbake it, which makes
the strands soggy. Halve, seed and bake until
a paring knife inserted into the flesh can easily
twist and break the strands apart. Waiting
until the skin is easily pierced is too long.
Sweet Dumpling, Carnival: These adorable
little squashes are 4 to 6 inches across, with
white or pale yellow skins, splotched with
green. Mild and sweet, their edible skin lends
them to slicing and roasting, sautéing or
stewing, or stuffing for a pretty presentation.
fall 2019 real food 33

Thai Red Curry Squash
and Chicken Stew
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Sweet, meaty kabocha squash and chicken thighs go well
together in this creamy, spicy Thai dish. A simple simmer
sauce allows you to cook everything at once, streamlining
the cooking process and saving time. Serve with black rice
for a stunning, whole-grain presentation, or substitute
brown or sushi rice.
1 cup black rice
1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup fish sauce
1 stalk lemongrass, split lengthwise
3 small shallots, minced
1 large lime, pared
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon ginger root, slivered
4 teaspoons red curry paste
3 cups peeled and cubed kabocha squash,
uncooked
1 pound chicken thighs, cut in bite sized pieces
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
1. Cook the rice: Put 11/2 cups water in a medium pot and
place over high heat, and when boiling, add the rice.
Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and cook for about
25 minutes, or until the rice is tender. If necessary, drain
the rice in a fine mesh strainer. Put back in the pan, cover,
and keep warm.
2. In a large sauté pan, pour the coconut milk, chicken
stock and fish sauce and place over medium heat. Add the
lemongrass, shallots, lime zest, garlic, ginger and red curry
paste and mix well. Bring to a boil. Add the squash and
chicken and reduce heat to a simmer and cover the pan,
adjusting the heat so it’s not boiling. Cook until the squash
is tender when pierced with a paring knife and a piece
of chicken cut in half has no pink left, about 10 minutes.
Add lime juice and simmer just until thick. Serve the curry
over cooked black rice, topped with cilantro.
Sausage and Farro
Stuffed Acorn Squash
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Smaller squashes stuffed with delectable goodies are perfect for
making into single-serving meals. This beauty will tempt your
diners with chewy sausage and whole grain farro laced with herbs
and Parmesan cheese.
2 small acorn squash, halved (or large sweet dumplings)
1/2 cup pearled farro
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
8 ounces Italian sausage, mild or hot
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup dried apricots, finely chopped
1 large egg
1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment
paper. Set out a large casserole or pan for the squash halves.
2. Halve the squashes from the stem end to the tip and use a
spoon to scoop out the seeds and strings. Place cut side down
on the sheet pan and bake for 20 to 30 minutes until the squash
is tender when pierced with a paring knife. Cool on pan on a rack.
3. In a small pot, place 2 cups water and put it over high heat to
bring to a boil. Add the farro and return to a boil, then reduce the
heat to low. Cook, covered, for about 20 minutes, until the farro
is tender. Drain in a fine mesh strainer and let cool.
4. In a large sauté pan, drizzle the olive oil and place over mediumhigh
heat. Add the onion and stir until it starts to sizzle. Reduce the
heat to medium-low and stir occasionally for at least 5 minutes.
When the onion is softened, crumble the sausage into the pan.
Raise the heat to medium-high and stir, crumbling the sausage
with your spatula. Add the thyme, oregano and salt and stir until
the sausage is no longer pink and is cooked through. Scrape into
a large bowl and let cool.
5. Scoop out the squash flesh, leaving about a ¼-inch layer inside
the skins so they won’t collapse. Place the squash in a medium
bowl and mash with a fork, then transfer to the bowl with the sausage.
Add the cooked farro, apricots, egg and half of the Parmesan
cheese. Mix well.
6. Stuff the squash halves with the sausage mixture, rounding
the top of the filling. Place them in the casserole or on a baking
sheet, and top each with the remaining Parmesan. Bake for
30 minutes. The tops will be golden brown and the filling will be
firm when pressed with a fingertip. Serve hot. When completely
cooled, place any leftovers in a storage tub, cover tightly, and
refrigerate for up to 4 days.
34 real food fall 2019

SAUSAGE AND FARRO
STUFFED ACORN SQUASH
fall 2019 real food 35

KABOCHA CHEESECAKE
WITH MAPLE WALNUT SAUCE
36 real food fall 2019

Kabocha Cheesecake
with Maple Walnut Sauce
MAKES 16 SERVINGS
Forget about pumpkin pie—this cheesecake is going to win your heart with its creamy, cinnamonkissed
appeal. You’ll need to roast a small kabocha squash for this; a 1½ pound squash should
yield 1½ cups mashed squash. This recipe will feed a crowd, depending on how hungry they are.
If you have a smaller group, you can also freeze a few slices for another day. You’ll be glad you did!
For the Crust
2 tablespoons light brown sugar, packed
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
For the Maple Walnut Topping
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons cream
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
For the Cheesecake Filling
1 (11/2 pound) kabocha squash (for
11/2 cups mashed)
3 (8-ounce) packages neufchatel or
cream cheese, room temperature
1 cup sour cream
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup light brown sugar
5 large eggs
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1. To bake the squash for the cheesecake filling, cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and
place the squash, cut side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 30 minutes
at 400°F, then cool. Scoop the flesh into a measuring cup, mashing with a fork as you go, to
make 11/2 cups, reserving any extra for another use.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 10-inch springform pan and wrap a sheet of foil around
the bottom of the pan in case it leaks. Get a deep roasting pan that the springform fits in. Boil
a pot of water.
3. Make the crust: In a large bowl, stir the graham cracker crumbs and brown sugar. Melt the butter
and drizzle over the crumb mixture, stirring until evenly mixed. Press the mixture in the buttered
pan. Bake for 10 minutes to lightly toast the crust. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.
4. Make the cheesecake filling: Place the neufchatel or cream cheese in the food processor bowl
and process to blend well. Scrape down and process, as many times as it takes to get it smooth,
with no lumps. Add the sour cream and sugars and process again, scraping down until well mixed
and smooth. Add the mashed squash, eggs, flour, cinnamon, salt and vanilla. Process until smooth
and well mixed, scraping down as needed. Pour the batter into the prepared crust and place in the
roasting pan. Carefully pour the boiling water in the roasting pan to come 11/2 inches up the sides
of the springform pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 1 hour and 30 to 40 minutes.
The cake will be puffed around the edges and will not jiggle in the center when lightly shaken.
5. Remove the roasting pan from oven and place it on a cooling rack with the cake still in it, for
about 10 minutes, then take the cake out and discard the water. Cool the cheesecake on the rack
until room temperature, then chill for at least two hours before cutting.
6. While the cake is cooling, make the topping: In a small saucepan, combine the maple syrup,
brown sugar, butter and cream. Stir over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to
low and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the walnuts. Let cool.
PEELING AND
CUBING SQUASH
• Squash that is smooth
and not deeply lobed, like
a butternut or kabocha, will
be easier to peel.
• If the squash has a big
stem, knock it off with a
few whacks with a hammer
or small pot.
• For a round squash, place
it stem side up on the cutting
board and use a sharp chef’s
knife to slice straight down
to cut it in half. You may have
to rock it a little and carefully
place the heel of your hand
on the back of the knife blade
to lean into it. Once halved,
scoop out the seeds. Cut
the squash in 1- to 2-inch
wedges and place each on its
side on the cutting board so
you can use your chef’s knife
to trim the skin off, cutting
straight down and taking it
off in sections. You can also
use a paring knife to pare
the skin. A peeler may not
be up to the task with thicker
skinned squash.
• For butternut and other
squashes with a neck, place
them on a cutting board and
cut the neck section off just
above where the bulb swells.
That gives you a big solid
piece, which you can peel
with a peeler or paring knife
and cut in cubes or slices.
Scoop the seeds from the
bulbous part and cut it in
half, then peel with a peeler
or paring knife. Place cut
side down and cut in wedges,
then cut those in cubes.
NUTRITION
CREAMY SQUASH SOUP:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 300 (115
from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 6g); CHOL
24mg; SODIUM 982mg; CARB 39g;
FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 8g
SPAGHETTI SQUASH W. SHRIMP,
LEMON & SPINACH:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 283 (140
from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 10g); CHOL
170mg; SODIUM 610mg; CARB 14g;
FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 24g
THAI RED CURRY SQUASH
& CHICKEN STEW:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 559 (221
from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 18g); CHOL
109mg; SODIUM 1745mg; CARB
56g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 33g
SAUSAGE & FARRO
STUFFED ACORN SQUASH:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 446 (182
from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 7g); CHOL
80mg; SODIUM 821mg; CARB 50g;
FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 20g
KABOCHA CHEESECAKE
W. MAPLE WALNUT SAUCE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 392 (191
from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 10g); CHOL
110mg; SODIUM 300mg; CARB 43g;
FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 8g
fall 2019 real food 37

Weeknight Fix
Skip takeout and cook healthy meals at home with these five easy ideas
BY ROY FINAMORE
The leftovers from the weekend are gone, and you can’t face another rotisserie chicken. Here are options—
some elegant, some homey, some light, some very simple—for meals that you can turn out quickly any
night of the week. But be good to yourself first. Put out a bowl of olives or nuts so you can nibble while you cook.
CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
38 real food fall 2019

A VERY GREEN FRITTATA
(RECIPE PAGE 43)
LEFT: CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA
(RECIPE PAGE 40)
fall 2019 real food 39

Chicken Saltimbocca
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This is a surprisingly elegant dish for a weeknight. The juicy
chicken thighs combined with sage and prosciutto and served with
a quick Marsala sauce really do “jump in the mouth,” which is what
saltimbocca means. Serve with rice or spaghetti with butter and a
green such as spinach or Swiss chard.
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 1¾ pounds)
coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,
to taste
8 to 16 sage leaves
8 thin slices prosciutto
½ cup all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup dry Marsala
½ cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits
1. Trim any visible fat from the chicken thighs and place them skin
side down on a piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece
of plastic and pound to a thickness of ¼ inch.
2. Season the thighs with salt and pepper and top each with a
sage leaf (use 2 if they’re small). Cover with a slice of prosciutto—
wrap any overhang around the thigh—and press to adhere.
3. Dredge the thighs with flour and pat off the excess.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh
heat. When it shimmers, add half the thighs, prosciutto side
down. Sauté until the prosciutto is crisp, about 2½ minutes. Turn
and sauté until the other side is lightly golden and the thighs feel
firm when you prod them with your finger, about 1½ minutes.
Transfer to a platter and tent with foil to keep them warm. Repeat
with the remaining oil and thighs.
5. Pour any oil out of the skillet and pour in the Marsala. Boil
for 1 minute to cook off the alcohol. Add the stock and boil until
reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. It might look like the sauce
has split. Don’t worry; it will come right in the end. Turn off the
heat, add the butter, and tilt and swirl the pan until you have an
emulsified sauce.
6. Divide the thighs among 4 plates. Serve sauce on the side.
Cook’s Notes:
• To make this dish with chicken breasts, you’ll need 4 (6-ounce)
boneless, skinless breasts. Pound the breasts between two pieces
of plastic wrap. Season with salt and pepper and top with
2 sage leaves (4 if they’re small) and 2 slices of prosciutto—wrap
any overhang around the breast. Press to adhere. Continue with
the recipe above, starting with step 3.
• While cooking spaghetti (8 ounces as a side for 4) melt 3 tablespoons
butter in a skillet over medium high heat. Add 1 cup of
the pasta water. When spaghetti is about 1 minute shy of al
dente, use tongs to transfer it to the skillet. Cook, tossing with
tongs and adding a bit more pasta water if needed until the pasta
is al dente and the butter sauce is creamy.
Porcupine Meatballs
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
These are fun: Meatballs with rice mixed in so the kernels stick
out like porcupine spines. Cooked in a tomato sauce, it’s very
retro. Braised in beef stock and showered with herbs, it’s fresh
and bright. And fast. Serve in a bowl over noodles or with multigrain
bread to sop up the sauce. Add some spinach or peas and
your tongue will smile.
½ cup long-grain white rice
1½ cups boiling water
1 medium red onion, minced
1 large garlic clove, grated on a rasp or minced
½ cup chopped flatleaf parsley
1 cup chopped cilantro, divided
1 large egg
coarse kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper, to taste
1½ pounds ground beef
3 cups beef stock
¼ cup cornstarch
1/3 cup water
¼ cup chopped dill
1. Put the rice in a small saucepan. Pour in boiling water and
bring back to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to
medium and simmer for 3 minutes. Drain and transfer to a
large bowl.
2. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, ½ cup of the cilantro, the
egg, and salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Crumble in the
beef and mix with your hands until everything holds together.
3. Make 20 golf ball-sized meatballs (about ¼ cup each) and
put them in a 12-inch skillet. Pour in the stock and bring to a
boil over high heat. Cover, turn the heat down to low, and cook
until the rice is tender and the meat cooked, about 20 minutes.
4. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meatballs to a large
serving bowl.
5. Turn the heat to medium-high and bring the stock back
to a boil.
6. Mix the cornstarch and water together to make a smooth
slurry. Stirring, add the slurry to the stock and bring it back
to a boil.
7. Pour sauce over the meatballs, garnish with the remaining
½ cup cilantro and the dill, and serve.
Cook’s Note: For quick and easy peas, put 2 cups frozen petite
peas (they’re the sweetest) into a colander and run under hot
water 1 to 2 minutes to thaw. Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted
butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add 1 to 2 chopped
scallions and cook 1 minute. Add peas and cook until hot, 1 to
2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Bingo!
40 real food fall 2019

PORCUPINE MEATBALLS
fall 2019 real food 41

42 real food fall 2019
RICE NOODLES AND SHRIMP WITH
SCALLION, GINGER AND PEANUT SAUCE

Rice Noodles and Shrimp with
Scallion, Ginger and Peanut Sauce
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Sharp with the flavors of scallion and ginger, and with a little crunch from
the peanuts, this is an ideal sauce for noodles. You don’t have to stick to
rice noodles. Use udon or fresh Chinese noodles or ramen if you can find
them. Serve with sautéed baby bok choy or a cucumber salad.
For the Shrimp
1 pound extra-large (16-20 per pound) shrimp, peeled
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 garlic cloves, grated on a rasp
coarse kosher salt, to taste
1 teaspoon shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven spice)
or ½ teaspoon cayenne
For the Sauce
1 (5- to 6-inch) piece ginger, peeled and cut into chunks
1/3 cup roasted salted peanuts
1 bunch scallions, cut into 1- to 2-inch lengths
1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
¾ cup peanut oil
1 pound wide rice noodles (bahn pho)
1. Halve the shrimp, starting at the back, so you’re left with 2 thin crescents.
If the shrimp have a vein, remove it. Put the shrimp into a bowl.
2. Add the oil, garlic, salt to taste, and the shichimi or cayenne. Mix
well and leave on the counter while you make the sauce and noodles.
3. Make the sauce: Put the ginger into a food processor and pulse until
finely chopped. Transfer to a large heatproof bowl.
4. Put the peanuts into the processor and pulse until finely chopped.
Add to the bowl.
5. Put the scallions into the processor and pulse until finely chopped.
Be careful not to make a wet paste. Add to the bowl. Add the salt and
stir it all up.
6. Pour the oil into a small saucepan and heat it over medium-high heat
to 325ºF. Pour it into the bowl. It will sizzle and bubble up so be careful.
Give the sauce a stir.
7. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles, stir and bring
back to a boil. Turn the heat off and let the noodles sit, stirring once or
twice, until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
8. Drain the noodles and put them in a big bowl. Add the sauce and
toss well.
9. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot—a few
drops of water will skitter over the surface—add the shrimp in a single
layer. Cook until the shrimp tighten and the bottoms turn pink. Turn
and cook until the other side turns pink. The whole process should take
2 to 3 minutes.
10. Divide the noodles among 4 plates, top with shrimp and serve.
Cook’s Note: There’s no end to what you can add to noodles with this
sauce. Think slivers of leftover steak or roast beef. Shredded poached or
rotisserie chicken. Sprouts. Seeded cucumber sliced into matchsticks.
Very finely sliced red or yellow or orange bell pepper. Look in your fridge
and experiment.
A Very Green Frittata
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
You’ll find dishes like this in northern Italy, a kind of
omelet with lots of greens and herbs. It’s a great light dinner.
Serve it hot, warm or at room temperature. Play with
the greens and herbs. Purslane is a tasty option, but so
are beet greens, mustard greens or Swiss chard as long as
they’re all tiny and tender. Replace the dill with tarragon if
you’d like. Or chervil. Or bronze fennel. Just keep the total
amount of greens and herbs to 3¼ cups. I serve this with
a simple green salad and a baguette with butter. If you
have a garlic bread recipe in your back pocket, go for it.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 cup chopped scallions (1 bunch) or chives
1 cup chopped flatleaf parsley
1 cup chopped arugula (or ½ cup chopped
arugula and ½ cup chopped pea shoots)
¼ cup chopped dill
9 large eggs
coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
½ cup ricotta
1. Set an oven rack in the top position and preheat
the broiler.
2. Spread the butter all over a 12-inch oven-safe nonstick
skillet.
3. Toss the scallions, parsley, arugula and dill together.
Spread out in the skillet.
4. Crack the eggs into a medium or large bowl, season
with salt and pepper and whisk well. You don’t want
any visible white.
5. Pour the eggs over the greens and herbs. Press down
with a silicone spatula to ensure all the greens are
covered with egg.
6. Turn the heat on to medium. Cook for 7 minutes. The
eggs will just be starting to set on the bottom. Push in
gently with a spatula at the edge and you’ll see. Dot the
frittata with ricotta. I put 1-tablespoon blobs around the
edge. Cover and cook for 7 minutes. The top will be barely
set and the center will be runny.
7. Put the skillet under the broiler and broil until the
frittata is lightly browned, about 1 minute.
8. Slide the frittata onto a board. Cut it in quarters
and serve.
Cook’s Note: You don’t need a recipe for a simple green
salad. Put 4 big handfuls of greens into a bowl and season
with salt and pepper. Maybe use some crumbled
dried oregano. If you want onion or shallot, add it, but
keep the slices thin. Add a little vinegar and toss. Drizzle
in olive oil and toss again. Just keep in mind that you’ll
want 2 to 3 parts oil to vinegar. Taste and adjust the oil
and vinegar if desired.
fall 2019 real food 43

44 real food fall 2019
TONKATSU PORK
CUTLETS

Tonkatsu Pork Cutlets
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
What we have here are tender and very crunchy pork cutlets served with a tangy Japanese-style barbecue sauce. They’re traditionally made
with pork loin, but I think that can be a bit tough, so I go for pork tenderloin. The crunchiness comes from the panko breading. If you
want to skip the dressing for the cabbage, salt it before you put it on the plate and add some lemon wedges. Rice is the starch of choice.
For the Cabbage
4 cups very thinly sliced Savoy or Napa cabbage
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
juice of half a lemon
For the Tonkatsu Sauce
3 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1½ teaspoons sugar (Turbinado or granulated)
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
For the Pork
1 (1- to 1¼-pound) pork tenderloin
coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, beaten
1½ cups panko breadcrumbs
sunflower, safflower seed or canola oil, for frying
1. For the cabbage: Refrigerate the shredded cabbage. You
want it cold.
2. Whisk the mayonnaise, ketchup and lemon juice together in a
small bowl and refrigerate. No need to cover.
3. Make the Tonkatsu Sauce: Stir all the ingredients together in a
small bowl, making sure the sugar is dissolved. Refrigerate until
you’re ready to serve.
4. Prepare the pork: Remove the silverskin and any fat from the
tenderloin. Cut it on a sharp diagonal into 8 pieces.
5. Put the pork between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound to
a thickness of 1/3 inch. Remove the top piece of plastic and season
the pork with salt and pepper. Pat the seasoning into the meat.
6. Set up a dredging station: a plate with the flour, a shallow
bowl with the eggs, and a plate with the panko. Put a rack onto
a rimmed baking sheet.
7. Dredge the pork in the flour, patting off any excess. Dip it in the
eggs, coating both sides. Lift up, let the excess drip off, and coat
with panko, pressing down to make sure the panko adheres. Set
the cutlets on the rack.
8. Heat ¼ inch of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the
oil is ready for frying (a ring of bubbles will immediately appear
around the handle of a wooden spoon pressed into the center
of the skillet), add as many cutlets as will fit without crowding.
Fry, moving the cutlets around for even browning, until golden,
90 seconds. Turn and fry—again moving the cutlets around in
the skillet—until golden and crisp, another 90 seconds. Return
them to the rack.
9. To serve, divide the cabbage among 4 plates and top with a
dollop of the mayonnaise sauce. Cut the cutlets into 1-inch slices
and divide among the plates. Drizzle the pork with the Tonkatsu
Sauce (use it all).
Cook’s Note: Another option for serving is to get two slices
of some good white bread, like a Pullman loaf, and make a
sandwich. Spread one piece with the mayonnaise sauce (or just
plain mayo) and the other with Tonkatsu Sauce. Add two pork
cutlets and a pile of shredded Savoy cabbage. Season with salt.
Trim the crusts if you want to be fancy. Serve with kimchi or a
pickle of some kind.
NUTRITION
RICE NOODLES & SHRIMP
W. PEANUT SAUCE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 997 (477
from fat); FAT 54g (sat. 9g); CHOL
130mg; SODIUM 678mg; CARB 101g;
FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 27g
A VERY GREEN FRITTATA:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 294 (195
from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 10g); CHOL
451mg; SODIUM 180mg; CARB 5g;
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 19g
CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 530 (291
from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 11g); CHOL
218mg; SODIUM 447mg; CARB 9g;
FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 45g
PORCUPINE MEATBALLS:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 445 (170
from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 7g); CHOL
150mg; SODIUM 171mg; CARB 30g;
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 36g
TONKATSU PORK CUTLETS:
PER SERVING: CALORIES 487 (238
from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 5g); CHOL
137mg; SODIUM 585mg; CARB 30g;
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 32g
fall 2019 real food 45

Reinventing
Dinner
Enjoy these approachable dinners
now and later by turning the leftovers
into totally different dishes
Having leftovers for lunch or dinner doesn’t mean you need to eat the same meal all over again. Get excited
about using leftovers by reinventing the dishes in a fresh way. First, you need a meal that you can enjoy
now. After that, you are already halfway to another meal because of the many components at the ready.
The ever-popular chicken dinner or a meatloaf meal with modern twists are great places to start.
Whether you celebrate Rosh Hashanah or are looking for a comforting weekend meal, the following menus
of approachable dishes can then serve double duty in the suggested recipes for new dishes using the leftovers.
In these and other recipes from “Now & Again: Go-To Recipes, Inspired Menus + Endless Ideas for Reinventing
Leftovers,” author Julia Turshen’s goal is to dismantle the idea that making a full meal has to be both difficult and
expensive and instead show how leftovers can be an invitation to fun, inventive cooking. Where there are leftovers,
there are endless opportunities for reinvention. —Mary Subialka

Celebration Chicken with
Sweet Potatoes and Dates
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Rosh Hashanah celebrates the Jewish New Year. There are a lot of symbolic
foods associated with the holiday, most of them sweet to help usher in a
sweet new year. This chicken is a bit of a Rosh Hashanah riff on the famous
Chicken Marbella from “The Silver Palate Cookbook” by Sheila Lukins and
Julee Rosso. Just like that extremely popular recipe, this chicken doesn’t
require much work and yields a crowd-pleasing, highly flavorful result. It calls
for just one roasting pan, in which you both mix everything and cook. There
are no extra bowls or pans, no browning chicken in batches and definitely
no fuss. You also get a two-for-one moment: The sweet potatoes and dates
(sweet for Rosh Hashanah!) give you an instant side dish.
ROSH HASHANAH DINNER
Celebration Chicken with
Sweet Potatoes and Dates
Baked Saffron Rice
ROSH
HASHANAH
DINNER
Beet Salad with Poppy Seed
and Chive Dressing
Make-ahead Note: Up to three days
ahead, you can mix everything for
the chicken and store in a resealable
plastic bag in the refrigerator. Make
the rice, cook and slice the beets, and
make the dressing for the beets, then
store all of these things in separate
containers in the refrigerator.
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup water
8 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 (3- to 4-pound) chickens, each cut into 10 pieces (2 wings,
2 legs, 2 thighs and 2 breasts cut in half across the bone),
backbone discarded (or saved for another use, like stock),
at room temperature
3 large sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds total), unpeeled,
scrubbed and cut into bite-size pieces
12 large dried dates (preferably medjool), halved and pitted
A small handful of chopped fresh soft herbs (cilantro, parsley,
dill and/or chives all work well)
1. Preheat oven to 425°F.
2. In a large roasting pan, whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, water,
garlic, salt and pepper (you want a pan that’s big enough to hold all of the
chicken pieces in a single layer; a disposable aluminum pan is good for
this if your roasting pan isn’t large enough). Add the chicken pieces, sweet
potatoes and dates. Use your hands to mix everything together and get
the marinade on all of the chicken, sweet potatoes and dates. Warning:
The following is a bit messy, but bear with me. Move everything around
so the sweet potatoes and dates are in a single layer on the bottom of the
pan and the chicken pieces, skin-side up, are in a single, even layer on top.
3. Roast until the sweet potatoes are tender (test with a fork or a paring
knife) and the chicken pieces are firm to the touch and their exposed skin
is nicely browned, about 1 hour. Let the chicken rest at room temperature
for at least 15 minutes before serving.
4. To serve, transfer the chicken, sweet potatoes and dates to a large serving
platter and pour all of the cooking juices over the top (or serve directly
from the roasting pan, giving everything a little mix first). Sprinkle with the
herbs and serve warm.
fall 2019 real food 47

Beet Salad with Poppy Seed
and Chive Dressing
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
I always like making unfussy vegetable dishes as part of
more elaborate holiday menus. They add color and variety
to your spread, and you can also rest assured your
guests can fill their plates with something healthy. This
beet salad is one of my go-to vegetable dishes because
it’s a little unexpected yet totally easy to make, and you
can whip up the dressing and cook and slice the beets
ahead of time and easily assemble the whole thing at
the last minute. Also, it’s best served barely warm or at
room temperature, which makes it especially perfect
for a big dinner.
kosher salt
2½ pounds red beets, scrubbed
2 tablespoons plain yogurt or mayonnaise
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2½ tablespoons apple cider vinegar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons poppy seeds
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives (or a thinly
sliced scallion minus the tough ends)
CELEBRATION CHICKEN WITH
SWEET POTATOES AND DATES
1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil and
add the beets (the water should cover the beets; if
it doesn’t, add more). Cook the beets, turning them
every so often, until they’re tender (test with a paring
knife), about 45 minutes (it may be a bit less or a bit
longer depending on the size and age of the beets, so
start testing at 30 minutes).
2. Drain the beets, transfer to a paper towel-lined cutting
board, and use the paper towels to rub off the
skins. Trim off and discard the root ends.
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the
yogurt, olive oil, mustard, vinegar, pepper, poppy seeds,
2 tablespoons of the chives and ½ teaspoon salt.
4. Slice the warm beets into thin bite-size wedges
or thin rounds (whatever you prefer) and transfer
them to a large serving bowl or platter. Season them
lightly with salt and then drizzle the dressing evenly
over them. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon
chives. Serve immediately.
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “NOW
& AGAIN: GO-TO RECIPES, INSPIRED
MENUS + ENDLESS IDEAS FOR
REINVENTING LEFTOVERS” BY JULIA
TURSHEN ©2018 REPRINTED WITH
PERMISSION OF CHRONICLE BOOKS.
PHOTOS BY DAVID LOFTUS.
48 real food fall 2019

Baked Saffron Rice
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Inspired by a Yotam Ottolenghi recipe, this rice is great
because it feeds a lot of people, it’s foolproof since you
cook it in the oven (which helps rice cook so much more
evenly than it does on the stovetop, leaving the cook
calm), and you can prepare it ahead and reheat it before
serving. The saffron makes it very aromatic and special
(perfect for a holiday). It’s an expensive ingredient, but
a little bit goes a very long way. Incidentally, the rice is
delicious with or without it, and you can also add different
spices when you cook the garlic and onion (whole
or ground cloves, cardamom pods, and cinnamon sticks
are all welcome).
½ cup olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
2½ cups long-grain white rice (preferably basmati)
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
4 cups plus 3 tablespoons boiling water
3 large pinches of saffron threads
1. Preheat oven to 425°F.
2. In a large, heavy, oven-safe pot over medium-low
heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and onion and
cook, stirring now and then, until the vegetables sizzle
and soften, about 8 minutes. Turn off the heat and add
the rice and salt and stir everything together.
3. Pour in 4 cups of the boiling water and stir well to
combine. Cover the pot tightly and place in the oven.
Bake until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is cooked
through, about 25 minutes (the center of the rice might
be cooked less than the rice around it, but it will rest
in just a moment and all of the grains will turn out
tender … trust me).
4. While the rice is cooking, put the saffron into a small
bowl and add the remaining 3 tablespoons boiling water.
5. When the rice is ready, uncover it and spoon the
reserved saffron and its liquid evenly over the top.
Re-cover the pot and let the rice sit for at least 15 minutes
and up to 1 hour before serving.
6. Uncover the rice, fluff with a fork or a spoon, and stir
well to incorporate the saffron. Taste and season with
more salt if needed. Serve warm. If you want to cook
the rice more than an hour ahead of serving, rewarm
it in the pot in a 250°F oven, stirring now and then,
until heated through, about 15 minutes from room
temperature or 30 minutes if cold from the refrigerator.
ROSH HASHANAH DINNER, Reinvented
Coronation Chicken Salad
Shred whatever chicken you have left (discard the skin and
bones) and roughly chop the leftover sweet potatoes and
dates. Put all of that into a bowl, sprinkle with a generous
amount of curry powder, and add a large spoonful of mango
chutney (or apricot jam, or just leave it out if you’ve got
enough sweet dates) and stir to mix. Add just enough
mayonnaise (or plain Greek yogurt) to bind everything
together and season to taste with salt and pepper. Fold in
some thinly sliced scallions and, if you’d like, some chopped
roasted almonds. Serve on toast or in lettuce cups.
Stuffed Peppers
This is for your leftover rice. Halve bell peppers lengthwise
and remove the seeds and ribs (you can leave the stems on
if you like, as they’re attractive). Arrange them, hollow-side
up, in a single layer in a roasting pan. Mix whatever leftover
rice you have with a generous amount of crumbled feta
cheese and some chopped fresh herbs (a lot of Italian
parsley is simple and nice). Fill the pepper halves with the
rice and dot the tops with butter and/or drizzle with olive
oil. Add about ½ cup water or chicken stock to the roasting
pan and place in a 350°F oven. Roast until the peppers are
soft and the top of the rice is a little bit browned, about
25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. These
are especially good topped with a dollop of plain yogurt.
If you don’t want the peppers to be vegetarian, you can
add some crumbled cooked sausage meat or ground meat
(beef, turkey and lamb all work well) to the rice mixture
before filling the peppers.
Beet Dip
As simple as can be, put leftover beet salad with its dressing
into a food processor and pulse until puréed. You can
make the dip as smooth or as rustic as you like. Season it to
taste with salt and pepper and add a splash of vinegar or a
squeeze of lemon juice if you need a little extra edge. Serve
with crackers, toasted bread or carrots, or on endive leaves
or cucumber slices ... anything!
Cheesy Rice Fritters
For every large handful of leftover rice, mix together with
a handful of grated Cheddar cheese, a beaten egg and
2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour. Cook spoonfuls in a
lightly oiled skillet until browned and crisp on both sides.
Sprinkle with salt and serve hot. These are great with drinks
or topped with eggs for breakfast (almost like hash browns).
fall 2019 real food 49

Confetti Meatloaf
SERVES 2 VERY HUNGRY PEOPLE AND 4 MORE SENSIBLY
If you loved the Turkey and Ricotta Meatballs in “Small Victories,” [my
other book] you’ll love this meatloaf (and vice versa!). This recipe borrows
the same technique of substituting ricotta cheese for bread crumbs
and eggs (which makes it much lower in carbohydrates and gluten free
to boot). To keep it full of flavor and moisture, I’ve added sautéed peppers
and onions, finely chopped herbs and sun-dried tomatoes, tons of
garlic, and a kick of salty Worcestershire. This recipe can also be easily
doubled, but keep in mind it will take a little longer to bake. Depending
on how you shape it, add at least 20 minutes. If you are not into turkey,
you can substitute ground chicken, pork or beef.
JUST MY TYPE
OF DINNER
JUST MY TYPE OF DINNER
Confetti Meatloaf
Creamy Garlic Mashed Cauliflower
Butter Lettuce with
Shallot Vinaigrette
Make-ahead Note: Up to three days ahead
you can make the shallot vinaigrette and store
in a covered container in the refrigerator.
Bring to room temperature before serving.
Up to one day ahead:
• Wash the lettuce and store in a plastic bag
or an airtight container in the refrigerator
wrapped in ever-so-damp paper towels.
• Make the cauliflower and store in a covered
container in the refrigerator.
• Mix the meatloaf mixture and store in a
covered container in the refrigerator.
2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large or 2 small bell peppers (any color), stemmed,
seeded and finely diced
1 small red onion, finely diced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
6 olive oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and minced
2 large handfuls of fresh Italian parsley and/or basil leaves
(a little bit of stem is fine!), finely chopped
¾ cup fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese
1 pound ground turkey (preferably dark meat)
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and
coat the parchment with 2 teaspoons of the olive oil. Set the pan aside.
2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the remaining
2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the bell pepper and onion and cook, stirring
now and then, until softened and browned on the edges, about
8 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the garlic, and stir to combine. Let
the vegetables cool down for a few minutes.
3. Transfer the cooled vegetables to a large bowl and add the oregano,
salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes, parsley and ricotta.
Stir everything well to combine (this will guarantee that everything
gets mixed into the meat evenly). Add the turkey to the bowl and
mix everything together (your hands are the best tools for the job).
4. Transfer the mixture to the prepared sheet pan and shape into a
loaf measuring about 10 by 4 inches and about 1 inch high. If the mixture
sticks to your hands when you’re doing this, just wet them lightly.
Make sure to pack the meat tightly, which will help it hold together.
5. Bake the meatloaf until the top is nicely browned and an instantread
thermometer inserted in the center registers 165°F, 35 to
40 minutes. Let the meatloaf cool for at least 10 minutes before
slicing and serving.
NUTRITION
CELEBRATION CHICKEN:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
477 (216 from fat); FAT 24g
(sat. 6g); CHOL 116mg;
SODIUM 768mg; CARB 26g;
FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 38g
BEET SALAD W. DRESSING:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
74 (34 from fat); FAT 4g (sat.
1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM
271mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 2g;
PROTEIN 2g
BAKED SAFFRON RICE:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
296 (108 from fat); FAT
12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg;
SODIUM 631mg; CARB 43g;
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g
CONFETTI MEATLOAF:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
422 (275 from fat); FAT
31g (sat. 9g); CHOL 111mg;
SODIUM 894mg; CARB 10g;
FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 28g
MASHED CAULIFLOWER:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
47 (16 from fat); FAT 2g (sat.
1g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM
38mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 2g;
PROTEIN 3g
BUTTER LETTUCE SALAD:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
134 (122 from fat); FAT
14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg;
SODIUM 300mg; CARB 2g;
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g
50 real food fall 2019

Creamy Garlic Mashed
Cauliflower
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
I made it my personal mission to make sure we still had the
comfort of comfort food even if it no longer came under a
carbohydrate guise. Enter this creamy mashed cauliflower. You
can use a potato masher to crush the cauliflower, but you won’t
get the same smooth texture that a food processor creates. Think
of this mashed cauliflower as a blank canvas that takes well to
all sorts of flavors. If you make this ahead, reheat it in 1-minute
intervals in the microwave, stirring between the intervals to
make sure it heats up evenly (or warm in a heavy saucepan on
the stove top over low heat).
1½ pounds cauliflower (about 1 large head), tough
stems discarded, cut into large florets
4 large garlic cloves
kosher salt
¼ cup half-and-half
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Put the cauliflower and garlic cloves into a large pot, and
add water just to cover plus a large pinch of salt. Cover the
pot, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat
to a gentle simmer and continue to cook, covered, until the
cauliflower is extremely tender (test with a paring knife), about
10 minutes. Drain the cauliflower and garlic in a colander and
shake to make sure the contents are super dry.
2. Transfer the cauliflower and garlic to a food processor and
add the half-and-half and another generous pinch of salt.
Purée until smooth, scraping down the sides of the processor
bowl as needed.
3. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed, then
transfer to a serving dish. Serve hot and topped with a few
grinds of black pepper.
Butter Lettuce with Shallot
Vinaigrette
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This is the salad I most often make for us. Put 1 minced shallot,
½ teaspoon kosher salt and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
into a large bowl. Rub ½ teaspoon dried oregano between
your fingers as you drop it into the bowl. Stir well to combine.
Let the mixture sit for a few minutes to allow the shallot to
soften slightly. Whisk 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard into the
vinegar mixture and then, while whisking, slowly drizzle in
¼ cup olive oil (the shallots make whisking a little clunky, but
just go with it). Season the dressing with more salt if you think
it needs it. Add 1 large or 2 small heads butter lettuce (also
known as Bibb or Boston lettuce) or other lettuce of choice,
leaves roughly torn or left whole, to the bowl (at this point the
salad can sit at room temperature for an hour or so). Use your
hands to coat the lettuce with the vinaigrette. Some chopped,
toasted hazelnuts are also really nice on top, if you choose.
Serve immediately.
JUST MY TYPE OF DINNER, Reinvented
Open-Faced Meatloaf Melts
For me, the best part about making meatloaf is getting
to make meatloaf sandwiches on crispy English
muffins the next day. To make them, split and toast
the muffins and spread the cut sides generously
with mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. Place a piece
of meatloaf on top of each one and drape with a
slice of cheese (I like Cheddar, but use whatever you
like). Run the sandwiches under the broiler or in your
toaster oven. Serve on a plate or a paper towel (let’s
just be honest) with a jar of pickles. Best lunch.
Creamy Cauliflower + Lettuce Soup
Combine whatever leftover mashed cauliflower
and dressed salad you have in a medium saucepan
(I know that seems weird, but just stick with me;
the lettuce will add body and flavor, and the dressing
will add just the right amount of perkiness).
Add enough vegetable or chicken stock to thin the
cauliflower to the consistency of a soup rather than
a mash. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat,
and simmer just until the lettuce is wilted and soft,
about 3 minutes. Purée the soup in a blender in
batches as necessary and return to the pot (or use
an immersion blender). If you’d like the soup extra
creamy, pass it through a fine-mesh sieve. Reheat
the soup, taste for seasoning, and serve immediately
with something crunchy on top, like croutons,
coarse bread crumbs that you’ve toasted in a
buttered skillet, or a handful of chopped nuts
(roasted almonds or hazelnuts). Instead of, or in
addition to, the crunchy finish, you can top each
serving with a swirl of really good extra-virgin olive
oil or heavy cream and a few minced fresh chives.
Lettuce + Spring Pea Risotto
This turns leftover, probably wilted salad into an
entirely new meal. For 4 servings, melt 3 tablespoons
butter in a large, heavy pot and add 1 cup
arborio rice (or any starchy, short-grain rice). Cook,
stirring, until the rice smells nutty, about 2 minutes.
Add about 1 cup warm chicken or vegetable
stock and cook, stirring now and then, until the
liquid is absorbed. Repeat until the rice is tender
and creamy, about 20 to 25 minutes all together
and you’ll use about 4 cups of stock. Add another
1 tablespoon butter, whatever salad you have left
(chop it first), and 2 handfuls of frozen peas. Stir
well to combine and cook until the peas are tender,
about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and
serve immediately. Top with grated Parmesan.
fall 2019 real food 51

Dynamo
on a Mission
Multitasking José Andrés embraces food and drink
and humanitarian efforts with unstoppable gusto
BY TARA Q. THOMAS
It’s 8 a.m. and José Andrés has already
caused a sensation, broadcasting a spurof-the-moment
invitation over Twitter to
come join him for breakfast. He’s at Mercado
Little Spain, a massive food hall he launched
just a couple months ago in New York City’s
Hudson Yards, doing some simultaneous
staff training, recipe testing, research and
publicity. The Twitterverse has lit up in
response, with people declaring their excitement
to join him or their disappointment at
being too far away to take advantage of
breakfasting with one of the most influential
chefs of our day.
This is pretty typical for Andrés. In part,
it’s because he has to multitask like a madman.
From his hometown and base in
Washington, D.C., he runs 34 restaurants
through Think Food Group, from his flagship
Jaleo to the cutting-edge experimental kitchens
of minibar, é and Somni, as well as a catering
business. In addition, he has Pepe, a food
truck that makes rounds in D.C., Maryland
and Virginia. Today he’s also preparing to
open another branch of Jaleo—his fifth—in
Disney Springs, Florida, and he’s finalizing
details on the sixth, scheduled to launch this
year in Dubai.
But that’s not all. In the last few years,
Andrés has redefined what it means to be a
celebrity chef, extending his brand far
beyond restaurants to include what might
be best described as humanitarian aid.
That means working to create ways to feed
people healthy food at a low price, as he does
now at Beefsteak, a fast-casual, vegetableforward
chain with four locations, including
one in a Cleveland hospital. It means teaching
classes on the importance of food in
society at George Washington University,
and on science and cooking at Harvard.
And it means reaching out to hungry people
everywhere through Central Kitchen, a
nonprofit he has organized to feed those in
need, whether on the streets of D.C. or in
the wake of major disasters, such as
Hurricane Maria in Puerto Rico and
cyclone-ravaged Mozambique.
And now there’s the matter of “Vegetables
Unleashed,” his fourth and newest book,
which he launched recently with a packed
talk at Mercado Little Spain. A book on vegetables
is an unexpected move from a chef
who uses Spain’s serrano ham like others
might use Parmesan cheese. He’s not of the
usual breed of vegetable-cookbook authors,
promoting it as part of a healthy lifestyle;
he’s a guy who lustily embraces food and
drink of all types, and will cap it all off with
a cigar when he can. So, after kicking myself
for having missed my chance to breakfast
with the great man, I catch him via phone
that afternoon, while he is on his way down
to D.C. for a book-launch event with Joe
Yonan, the food editor of The Washington
Post, to find out how he got to this point.
“You know it’s not like one day I go from
black to white,” he says, surprising me by his
quiet demeanor. “It’s been slowly coming.
But the truth is that, when I look around,
it’s the small gestures that show you that
SPANISH NATIVE ANDRÉS SERVES UP A WORLD OF CUISINES AT HIS RESTAURANTS
FROM MEXICAN AND GREEK TO TURKISH-LEBANESE AND CHINESE-PERUVIAN-JAPANESE
PHOTOS PETER FRANK EDWARDS
52 real food fall 2019

“Every bite you take
can change the world.”
ANDRÉS IN HIS HOME GARDEN WITH BENNETT HAYNES (LEFT),
MATT GOULDING (MIDDLE), AND DAUGHTER INES.
—José Andrés
every little thing helps: These two little boys
helping a woman crossing the street with
her groceries, or somebody helping their
elderly neighbor taking the garbage out. Life
is full of these moments, and they don’t
seem like very much, but if you put them all
together, they are very powerful.” Andrés
brings up the video of the sea turtle with the
straw up its nose as an example: The video
went viral, inspiring countless numbers of
people to give up straws, emboldening several
restaurant chains to follow suit, which
inspired people to think about what other
plastic products they could live with less of,
such as plastic bags. “Every little thing
counts,” Andrés says. “And, in terms of
food, every little thing helps—to make sure
we are healthier, that maybe we don’t have
so much waste, that we are maybe not all so
overweight. Tiny things—small gestures—
are what make big things happen.”
It was, in fact, a tiny thing that set him on
his path to chefhood. “I remember, I was
very young when my father took me to this
little town where he grew up in Aragon, one
of the regions of Spain. He took us to eat in
this old house, and there was this big fire and
a big old iron pot. With a little bit of bread
and a little bit of fat and one garlic clove, this
relative of mine made us a dish called
migas—this sauté of old bread, kind of
crispy and soft at the same time, served next
to a fried egg. It was only that, and yet it was
so powerful, in so many ways.”
By the time Andrés was 17, he had already
logged a few years working in restaurants,
and landed a job at Il Bulli, the restaurant
of celebrated chef Ferran Adrià. “It was different
than anywhere in the world, not just
Barcelona,” he says, referring to Adrià’s postmodernist
cooking. “It was very simple but
at same time very forward thinking. Nobody
else was having that conversation.”
As far as Andrés was concerned, he had
found the job of his life, and he didn’t plan
on leaving anytime soon. But one rainy
December evening in 1991, a misunderstanding
with Adrià cost him his job.
Distraught, Andrés decided to head to New
York, landing with $50 in his pocket and no
clue what he was going to do. “I fell in love
with the U.S., with New York,” he said. “I like
the spirit and the drive here. It wasn’t like I
wanted to open anything; I just wanted to
be part of what was going on here.”
Still, it was lonely at first for a Spaniard
far away from home, and he began hanging
out at El Cid, a shoebox-sized Spanish tapas
bar in Chelsea. “I was 21, going on 22,”
Andres recalls. “It was the place I hung out
the most. Clemente and his wife, Jolanta,
became like family. He gave me a lot of
encouragement. One of the happiest days of
my life was one day he came to eat at the
restaurant I was working at; the chef had
quit, so technically I was the working chef—
not because they made me chef but because
there was nobody else left. He always told
me, ‘Don’t try to cook any different than you
cook at home. Cook in the way you like and
eventually Americans will like it.’”
That advice served him well. Not long
after, Andrés landed a job in D.C. opening
a restaurant called Jaleo, where the taste
of Spain he put on the plates was so vivid
that it got everyone talking. The following
years were a whirlwind of restaurant openings
and awards (plus a marriage followed
by three kids). But he has always prioritized
his friend’s advice and remembered the
dishes that made him happiest. More often
than not, vegetables play a main role in those
memories: the cauliflower dish his mom
made, her lentil soup or the chickpea-andspinach
stew that’s ubiquitous across Spain.
In fact, he says, vegetables have always
played a major role at his restaurants. It’s
fall 2019 real food 53

“HOME IS ACTUALLY WHERE I COOK
THE MOST,” SAYS ANDRÉS, AT HOME
WITH HIS WIFE AND DAUGHTER
RECIPE AND PHOTOS FROM “VEGETABLES
UNLEASHED” BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS AND MATT
GOULDING ©2019 BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS.
EXCERPTED BY PERMISSION OF ECCO, AN
IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS.
just that we—as Americans—tend to focus
more on the meat. “It’s nothing new; my restaurants
over the years were always very vegetable
friendly, and even more so in restaurants
like Zaytinya, my Mediterranean-Greek-
Turkish place.” What has changed is his belief
that he had to do more to promote vegetables.
“At the end of the day, we believe we need to
bring vegetables forward,” he says. “I mean, we
have almost 50 percent of America that
doesn’t eat vegetables—that’s a very crazy
number! I think anything we can do [to
encourage people to eat more vegetables]
helps rural America, helps farmers markets,
helps the local economy, helps the way we
produce and consume foods, makes us less
reliant on meats, makes us healthier—makes
us in so many ways much more powerful.”
“Vegetables Unleashed” is Andrés’ call to
unleash that power—on ourselves and the
planet. While he’s quiet and contemplative on
the other end of the phone line, in the book
you can practically hear him yelling, “People
of America!” his famous rallying cry. “Did
you know that 87 percent of American adults
don’t meet their daily fruit and vegetable
requirements? Or that 40 percent of kids’
vegetable intake comes from french fries?
FORTY PERCENT!” he writes. A few pages in,
he tells us all the many ways in which our habits
hurt us: Americans throw away 338 million
pounds of produce yearly and $165 billion
worth of food overall, while our obsession
with diets funds a $20-billion industry, and
we remain the least healthy developed nation
on Earth. Keep reading and you’ll learn that
by 2050 the world is projected to have 9 billion
people—more than a meat-based diet could
possibly feed. When you get to the line, “Every
bite you take can change the world,” you know
exactly what he means.
Yet the most compelling reason to eat vegetables
that Andrés gives is flavor. “Think
about it: What happens when you bite into a
piece of meat?” he writes. “The first five seconds
are kind of interesting, but then you
spend another 20 seconds chewing something
that has no flavor. Now think about a pineapple.
As soon as your fork hits the flesh, its
scent fills the air like a wonderful perfume.
Then you bite down: juicy, sweet and acidic,
with notes of passion fruit and citrus and mystery
that linger long after you stop chewing.
That’s what I’m talking about.”
As a chef, he also finds that they offer more
potential for imagination. You can grill or
sauté a steak and top it with different sauces,
but a steak is always a steak. A carrot, on the
other hand, can be grated into a crisp, crunchy
salad; cooked into a soft, hearty curry; ribboned
into fettuccine-like strands for a riff on
pasta; or juiced into a drink—and he gives the
recipes to prove it.
“I think the bad connotations come from
years and years of super badly treated vegetables
that everybody hated,” he says, conjuring
up overboiled broccoli as an example. “Maybe
because the room was full of sulfur, like
Dracula Diego coming from hell.” All you
need to do to avoid this is pay more attention,
he says. His essential tips: Make sure the water
is seasoned—it should be as salty as sea
water—and taste the vegetable you’re cooking
to see when it’s done. And save that cooking
water—it’s essentially instant stock, ready to
add depth and vitamins to soups and stews,
grains and pastas, or even that piece of meat
when you use it to deglaze the pan.
If you don’t have the time or patience to
watch over your boiling vegetables so that they
don’t go from green to gray and slimy, then
choose a different method. Try slow-cooking,
which concentrates flavors while turning the
texture dense and silky. And harness the
power of acidity, whether it’s a spritz of
lemon or a sprinkle of vinegar, to turn up the
volume on flavor.
Andrés’ recipes range from the incredibly
simple (Microwave Cacio e Pepe, a riff on
mac’n’cheese his daughter Lucia inspired) to
professional-chef complex (Vegetable Tempura,
deep-fried battered veggies that even many
Japanese restaurants fail to nail) and cover
nearly every corner of the world. As he puts it,
“I’m not afraid to cook hyphenated cuisine.
Roots are important, as long as they don’t hold
you in place. The beauty of freeing yourself
from any single allegiance is that it allows you
to benefit from the world’s collective wisdom.”
Some jump off the page for their appeal, while
others shock (if you haven’t heard already
about the “Compost Potatoes,” Google it; it
involves cooking potatoes in spent coffee
grounds—as well as whatever else comes out
of the compost bucket). The point, he says, is
to feel free to be creative, to try things. To him,
the most challenging thing about feeding a
family with vegetables isn’t figuring out what
PORTRAIT RYAN FORBES
54 real food fall 2019

to make; it’s stocking the fridge. “What it takes
is so much more space,” he laments. “With a
little chicken you can feed a family of four; to
bring the same power with vegetables, you
need several times more.”
But he has a work-around. “That’s why
pulses and chickpeas and rice and wheat are
so important,” he says. “This is the way you
can fill up an entire family.” The classic example
in Spain is paella, a dish made all over the
country, and one of his favorites as well.
“Every time it’s one dish that’s one pot to feed
everybody, that’s something I always love,”
he says. “And paella, it looks like it’s a special
occasion dish.”
As soon as he says it, though, he seems to
regret it, quickly pointing out his 20-Vegetable
Fried Rice instead. “It’s super cool, and you
can always use leftover rice, even that you got
from the Chinese restaurant; you follow the
recipe and there you have a great dish,” he says.
Pressed as to why not try the paella, he turns
philosophical. “Really, once you master the
technique of the rice, paella is perfectly simple,”
he says. “What you have to understand is
that if you never make [paella], and then you
make it and expect to make it perfect, it’s
never going to happen. You need to be persistent
and do it many times until you achieve
more or less what we would say is perfect; that
you’ve achieved the soccarat,” he says, referring
to the thin layer of crispy rice at the bottom
of a perfectly cooked paella. “There are
even a lot of professional restaurants that
don’t achieve it every time—it’s not easy. And
even sometimes when it’s great, then you get
a writer who complains that the bottom of the
pan was crunchy and lightly burned, and
you’re like, ‘Really?’”
In other words, paella is a lifetime project,
and one you’re in for yourself. For something
to whip up on a Wednesday night , try the fried
rice. Or the Swiss chard and chickpeas, a classic
everyday Spanish meal. Or Mom’s Lentil
Stew, what he calls the chicken noodle soup
of Spain (only this, he points out, can also
turn into a lentil salad, served cold with a vinaigrette
and some chopped vegetables).
Because, as much fun as it is to turn spaghetti
squash into waffles or have a “nori taco
fiesta” (a cross between sushi rolls, tacos and
Korean kimbap)—two fun recipes in
“Vegetables Unleashed”—the mom dishes are
often the ones that really stick with you.
Mom’s Lentil Stew
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Lentil stew is like the chicken noodle soup of Spain—everyone grows up eating it,
and everyone’s mom (because, let’s face it, this is a mom dish more than a dad dish)
makes it just a little bit differently.
There are many types of lentils—tiny green Puy, black belugas, pebbly reds and
yellows. In Spain we would use small brown lentils called pardinas (sold by Goya
in the States), but other types will work. My mom, Marisa, made this into a puree,
blending the tomatoes, onions, carrots and lentils until smooth. She’d top it with a
drizzle of sherry vinegar and little chunks of bread fried in olive oil. Those first few
bites, with the vinegar hitting the roof of your mouth, are sharp, crunchy, smooth
and savory—life-affirming. These have all the same flavors, but with the texture of
the whole lentil intact.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon pimentón
1 pound brown Spanish lentils (pardinas) or other brown lentils,
rinsed and picked over
1 medium white onion, halved
3 small tomatoes, cored
8 cups water
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick coins
2 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
Kosher salt
1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and pimentón
and cook until the garlic is golden (be careful not to burn it), 2 to 3 minutes. Add
the lentils, onion, tomatoes and water and bring to a boil over high heat, then turn
the heat down to medium so the soup simmers gently and cook for 20 minutes.
2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onion and tomatoes to a bowl.
3. Add the carrots and potatoes to the pot and cook until the vegetables and lentils
are tender, about 20 minutes longer. Do not overcook—no one wants pasty lentils.
4. Meanwhile, after the tomatoes have cooled a bit, peel them and discard the
skins. Puree the onion and tomatoes in a blender or food processor.
5. Stir the puree into the simmering stew.
6. When the stew is done, season with salt and serve. Or let cool, refrigerate overnight,
and serve the next day, when it will be even more delicious.
fall 2019 real food 55

pairings
Beyond
Nouveau
Beautifully balanced Beaujolais
is a great companion to food
BY MARY SUBIALKA
French wine labels are all about location, so the Gamay grape may not be a
household name. But Beaujolais, the wine made out of those grapes, most likely
rings a bell, and no other area in the world has been able to make the wine as well
as that southern portion of the Burgundy region. One of the most familiar styles you
have probably seen is Beaujolais Nouveau, which is an especially young wine released
a month or two after harvest on the third Thursday in November. This tasty light red is
very popular, but if you also look to other wines from this region, you’ll discover some
selections with a bit more complexity and year-round availability.
Wines simply labeled “Beaujolais” have more substance than Beaujolais Nouveau,
and the next step up is “Beaujolais-Villages.” Wines then labeled with a specific village
name, such as Côte de Brouilly, Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent, are beautifully balanced
and higher quality yet.
Throughout the various quality levels, this light-bodied red wine pairs well with a wide
range of food and has low tannins and a fresh fruity flavor often described as including
black cherry, cranberry and raspberry notes. Try setting it out with a charcuterie board
with a selection of meats and cheeses including Brie, Cheddar and chèvre. Or warm
up with a baked wheel of Brie topped with fruit. If it’s takeout night, Beaujolais even
pairs with pizza and Thai curry dishes. Open a bottle with pasta or risotto with
vegetables. It’s a classic partner with roasted chicken, pork or turkey. And the
wine’s fruity flavors can complement those in a sweet and savory fruity
appetizer or a dessert with cherries, raspberries or strawberries.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
56 real food fall 2019

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