Nomad CIty Hotels

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE 

ISSUE 21| AUGUST/SEPTEMBER | FREE COPY 

CITY HOTELS 

OUR FAVOURITE NAIROBI PROPERTIES 

PIKI PIKI RIDE 

THROUGH KISII 

ON SAFARI WITH 

MY DAUGHTER 

NOTES FROM 

THE BUSH

2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1

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EDITOR’S NOTE 

WHERE IN THE WORLD 

FEELS MOST LIKE HOME 

RIGHT NOW? 

EMILY WARD 

Topshots, Page - 10 

IS “SOMEDAY” JUST CODE FOR NEVER? 

A 

s we all but sprint into the last quarter of the year (can time just 

stop to catch its breath for a quick second?) I can’t help but think 

about all the highly anticipated trips that haven’t quite come to be 

realised yet. We still have about four months to go, but still... 

My desk keeps mocking me. No, not an office one as I have 

none because I’m away so much that whenever I pop in, I’m always resigned 

to lounging out on the balcony with the garden monkeys. It is the desk in my 

apartment, which is strewn with souvenirs, travel magazines and resentment. 

There’s the travel book on Italy, where I had hoped to have done cliche tourist 

things like taking selfies on a gondola in Venice or riding a vespa from some 

quirky little Airbnb in Florence for yet another dose of pasta and gelato from 

the family-run cafe down the street. 

There’s the worn out map of Africa, where I had marked out a tentative 

trail that would have taken me from Nairobi to Cape Town, checking out 

six countries along the way. On top of it lies postcards from Ghana, Egypt, 

Ethiopia and Morocco, four countries I had hoped to have checked out by 

now (granted, there’s a high chance of getting my passport stamped from at 

least two of those places in the next month). 

I’m not certain why I haven't quite gotten around to going on some of 

the trips I was so excited for at the beginning of the year. Things have kept 

coming up, and I keep saying I’ll still see these places ‘someday’. But do you 

know what Tom Cruise’s ever suave character says to an ever leggy Cameron 

Diaz about that word in the movie Knight and Day? 

He says, "Someday. That's a dangerous word. It's really just a code for 

'never'". 

But, really, that doesn’t apply to me. I will still tick off most of the countries 

on my list. Someday. 

wattaonthego 

Wendy Watta 

Jinja, Uganda. I'm 

originally from the 

UK but have lived 

here along the Nile 

River for most of the 

past 12 years. We were drawn here by the 

river but have stayed because of how much we 

love our lives here. There is a beautiful climate, 

exceptionally friendly people and lots of 

adventures to be had. Living abroad has given 

me so many opportunities to learn and grow 

and I will forever be grateful to Uganda for that. 

MARTYN POLLOCK 

A piki piki ride, 

Page - 40 

After ten years in the 

army and moving to a 

different hemisphere, 

you certainly begin 

to question what and 

where is home. I wouldn’t exactly call it that, 

but for now, weekly commuting takes me to an 

isolated village about 30 mins from Kisii town. 

The village of Bogeka is where I spend most 

of my nights. In a deep dark wood stands my 

three-bedroom bungalow devoid of running 

water and with an al fresco lavatory. It certainly 

has a rustic charm. 

ADITYA SHAH 

Topshots, Page - 8 

India. I traveled and 

worked in India for 

a year, and Mumbai 

tickled, tantalized and 

terrified all my senses. 

Incredible sights, 

riots of colour at every corner, a cacophony 

of sounds, aromatic and pungent smells, and 

the glorious flavour-packed food. Living there, 

travelling on the jam-packed local trains, 

exploring its streets, meeting its people and 

discovering its peculiar culture and climate 

makes it feel like home – it’s truly a vibrant 

melting pot. 

NOMAD ISSUE. 21 AUGUST 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA 

CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, MARTYN POLLOCK, SIMON MARSH 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, EMILY WARD, ADITYA SHAH, TREVOR MAINGI 

MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE, ANGELA OMONDI SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 

EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO 

NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica 


CONTENTS 

22 


8 

34 

In this issue 

8. TOP SHOTS 

This month’s featured photographers 

capture the action of a kayaker during the 

Nile River Festival, and flamingos taking 

off during a sunset in Botswana. 

FEATURES 

12 

REGULARS 

12. NEWS 

Direct flights from Mumbai to Nairobi set 

to boost tourism, tourist numbers in Kenya 

hit an all-time high as the humpback 

whale migration season kicks off at the 

coast. 

14. WHATS ON 

From this year’s Magical Kenya Travel 

Expo the premiere of a documentary 

dedicated to Sudan the famous rhino, 

find a roundup of must-attend events this 

season. 

44. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS 

Kenyan-Japanese artist Patti Endo, who 

together with her sister Yvonne just 

collaborated with Sandstorm on the 

Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags, gives us 

a peek inside her travel bag. 

33. CITY HOTELS 

From hotels in malls and in the bush to 

historic and airport hotels, in this special 

issue, we profile our pick of some top 

hotels from around Nairobi. 

38. A MARA SAFARI WITH MY DAUGHTER 

For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays 

out some fun activities to do on safari to 

ensure both parents and their children 

have fun. 

40. A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH SOUTH 

NYANZA 

From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing 

village in Homa Bay, Martyn Pollock tears 

across counties on the wheels of a Honda 

Ace before hopping aboard a speedboat 

to the little-known Ngodhe Rao Island, 

and back. 

18. NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

As the moon illuminates the earth, 

scorpions crawl out of hiding, their 

exoskeletons glowing bright green/ 

yellow under a UV torch due to a special 

fluorescent pigment in their exoskeleton, 

writes Samantha du Toit. 

ON THE COVER 

THE TRIBE HOTEL, NAIROBI 

IMAGE COURTESTY OF THE TRIBE HOTEL 


ADITYA SHAH 

Instagram: @mowglishah 

I shot this at Makgadikgadi Salt Pan, 

Botswana, at dusk, whose soft light I find 

perfect for bird photography. I used a 

Canon 5D Mark III with a Canon 100- 

400mm IS II lens using the settings: 

1/160, f/5.6, ISO 100, at 400mm 

TIPS: Behavior - birds have a predictable 

flight pattern. Observe these so you can 

anticipate their movements and position 

yourself. Composition - apply the rule of 

thirds to ensure you have space for the 

birds to fly in a certain direction and give 

the image breathing room. 



EMILY WARD 

Instagram: @emwardphotos 

This shot was taken during the Nile River 

Festival 2019. Fortunately I'm a kayaker as 

well as a photographer, so with my camera 

in a dry bag between my legs, I was able to 

follow the kayakers as they paddled down 

river and surfed various waves along the 

way. I used a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor 

24mm 1.8 lens. My settings were: 1/2500 

sec at f/4.0, ISO 100, at 24mm. 

TIP: Consider your foreground elements. 

What can you include to make the image 

more interesting or help your story? What can 

you include that helps frame your subject?

TOP SHOTS 


WHAT’S ON 

PREMIERE OF KIFARU FILM 

DEDICATED TO RHINO SUDAN 

Kifaru is a film dedicated to Sudan, the 

last male Northern White Rhino in Kenya, 

who died last year. The award-winning 

documentary is proudly presented by Ol 

Pejeta Conservancy and will premiere on 

24th October at the Trademark Hotel. The 

feature-length documentary follows the lives of 

two young recruits who join Ol Pejeta’s rhino 

caretaker unit - a small group of rangers that 

protect and care for Sudan. Spanning their first 

four years on the job, Kifaru allows viewers 

to intimately experience the joys and pitfalls 

of wildlife conservation firsthand through the 

eyes of these caretakers who witness extinction 

happening in real-time. Get your ticket from 

mookh.com 

SUBMERGE- AN 

UNDERWATER 

PHOTOGRAPHIC 

EXHIBITION 

Nat Geo 2019 Explorer Jahawi 

Bertolli will be showcasing an 

underwater photographic and 

fundraising event on 30th August 

2019 at the Nairobi Serena Hotel 

from 6:00pm. The Kenyan-Italian 

photographer spends a great deal of 

his time diving into the depths of the 

ocean to document marine life with 

an aim of shedding a light on their 

conservation. There will be a live 

performance featuring Gilad and the 

Superband. Tickets go for Ksh 8,500 

and include a three course dinner, 

raffle, auction and more. To book 

your ticket call Nadine on 

+254 708379689. 

MAGICAL KENYA TRAVEL EXPO 

The Kenya Tourism Board is delighted to bring you the 

8th edition of the Magical Kenya Travel Expo which 

will be taking place from 2nd to 4th October at the 

KICC in Nairobi. Get to network and explore business 

opportunities at the leading travel trade expo in East 

Africa. Benefit from pre-scheduled appointments 

between exhibitors and hosted buyers, listen to the latest 

industry trends at their seminars, boost Africa sales from 

major global markets, and more. Your presence as an 

exhibitor, hosted buyer or trade visitor will go to ensure 

the continued development and growth of tourism in this 

region. For more information visit, mkte.co.ke 

NAIROBI BEER 

FESTIVAL 

The Nairobi Beer Festival is back 

from 6th-8th September at The 

Alchemist, and will also feature 

the city’s top DJs. Experience 

more than 35 beer tastings from 

all over the world paired with 

delicious gourmet bites. Enjoy 

unique craft beers, draft beers, 

lagers, ales and more. VIP ticket 

holders will receive, among other 

things, branded limited edition 

Sandstorm gifts and an exclusive 

professional beer glass set. For 

more information and tickets, visit 

ticketsasa.com 


www.eabl.com 

A Promise Kept 

Since 1950 

EXCESSIVE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION IS HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH. 

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 13 

NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER 18 YEARS.

NEWS 

TOURIST NUMBERS TO HIT 2.2 

MILLION IN 2019 

The number of international tourists is expected 

to grow by 10 per cent from last year, CS Najib 

Balala has said, despite a slight drop in the first 

half. In 2018, 2,025,206 tourists visited Kenya, 

and that’s the highest ever in the country's tourism 

history. During the year’s first half , US led as the 

top market source for international tourists. This is 

an indication that among other factors, the direct 

flight to New York is having a substantial positive 

impact on tourism. The current political stability and 

heightened security are expected to support the 

industry's performance going forward. The Tourism 

ministry is putting up a strategy to capture Russia, 

China and Indian markets as international markets 

remain positive. 

HUMPBACK WHALE 

MIGRATION SEASON SETS IN 

AT THE COAST 

Every year, humpback whales migrate from 

Antarctica to warmer climates, congregating 

in Kenyan waters between July and August 

to calve and mate. For visitors, watching 

whales in their natural environment leaping 

out of the water, sometimes in pairs, or in 

larger family groups, is an amazing and 

unforgettable sight. Visitors mostly watch the 

whales from boats accommodating up to 

eight people for a trip costing between Ksh 

5,000 to Ksh 45,000 per person, depending 

on the operator. One of the best places to 

see whales is the Malindi-Watamu Marine 

National Reserve, where Watamu Marine 

Association (WMA) has studied dolphins 

and whales since 2011. 

DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM MUMBAI TO 

NAIROBI SET TO BOOST TOURISM 

A move by Air India to resume direct flights between Mumbai and Nairobi from 

September has been welcomed as a huge opportunity for the hospitality industry. Air 

India used to operate directly between India and Kenya but later abandoned those 

operations. The airline is expected to fly four times a week and will cut the time used 

to travel from between 10 and 11 hours to six hours. This will save hours spent on 

flights that usually involve long layovers in Dubai, and consequently, South Asia leisure 

travelers will have more time to spend experiencing all that Kenya has to offer. Data 

released in January by Tourism CS Najib Balala showed that India ranked among the 

top five markets for tourist international arrivals in Kenya. 



SILVERPALM SPA & RESORT 

Bofa Road, Kilifi P.O. Box 41247-80100, 

Mombasa | Tel: +254-780745837 /+254 707745837 

Email: info@silverpalmkilifi.co.ke | www.silverpalmkilifi.com 

HIGHEST RANKED HOTEL 

IN KILIFI TOWN 

EA Classification 2017 by TRA

Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people 

in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy. 

Proud to be #1 of 22 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County 

For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com 

Set on a private 18,000 acre wildlife sanctuary, 

90 minutes from Nairobi, 

you will find Naivasha’s best kept secret. 

For reservations 

call:0722 200 596 or 0707 645 631 

email: reservations@oseriantwolakes.com 


NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

THEY COME 

CRAWLING IN 

THE MOONLIGHT… 

As the moon illuminates the earth, scorpions crawl out of 

hiding, their exoskeletons glowing bright green/yellow under 

a UV torch due to the special fluorescent pigment in their 

exoskeleton, writes Samantha du Toit. 

One of my favourite 

things about spending 

so much time outdoors, 

and sleeping in a tent, 

is knowing what phase 

of the moon it is on any 

given day. This is not 

something I think about when we go back 

to Nairobi, but out in the wilderness you 

can’t help but see the moon and know which 

nights you can navigate the path back to the 

tent without a torch to guide you. 

Some nights, as we lie in our tent with 

the flaps up so we can see outside, there 

is the complete darkness that comes with a 

moonless night. Indeed, it can be so dark 

that it is hard to tell whether my eyes are 

open or not. Then my other senses sharpen, 

and sounds and smells become clearer and 

more useful in piecing together the story 

outside. Whose footsteps are those crunching 

carefully through the leaves? Then, on other 

nights, the moon is so bright it wakes us up 

and we can see whoever is passing by, from 

the little mongoose to the large elephant. 

All manners of creatures come out only 

at night, but our favourite ones to look for 

are the scorpions. During the day we rarely 

see them, and it is such a surprise therefore 

to see just how many crawl out of the 

woodwork, literally, to start their day as the 

sun goes down. We recently purchased a 

good ‘black light’ which is a UV torch great 

for finding scorpions. 

To the children’s delight, scorpions glow 

bright green/yellow under UV light due 

to a special fluorescent pigment in their 

exoskeleton. I have not yet managed to find 

anyone who knows for sure why scorpions 

have this, but it is thought that they perhaps 

use it to see each other, warn predators of 

their venom or to detect the UV rays from 

the moon and stars, allowing them to know 

when it might be too bright for them to risk 

going out hunting, for fear of becoming prey. 

Most evenings after dinner, we now walk 

with the black light to our tent and count 

the number of scorpions we see. Often we 

count more than thirty on our five minute 

amble, and we are learning where we are 

most likely to find them, marvelling at how 

different they all are. Some stay in the barks 

of trees and seem to have the larger pincers 

and smaller tails; we can see these ones still 

in the same place in the day time, although 

hidden a little deeper inside their hideouts. 

Once we even saw two of them having 

what looked like an arm wrestle, pincers 

clashing and thrashing around as they tried 

to displace each other. 

Others we find scuttling around the 

undergrowth. Some big ones seem to have 

very small pincers and larger tails with sharp 

stingers on the end, and we make sure to 

steer clear of them. The children ask often 

where the scorpions go during the day, 

and I remind them of how I have mistakenly 

discovered the answer on more than one 

occasion. Their favourite story is about the 

day I once discovered a small scorpion 

asleep in a hand towel which was hanging 

on a tree branch outside our lunch tent. 

As I used the hand towel to dry my hands 

(not knowing there was a scorpion nestled 

on the inside), I must have given the scorpion 

quite a shock as it stung me on my finger. It 

was a heavy sting for a small creature and 

the pain was intense, lasting a long fifteen 

hours. It then vanished abruptly, leaving 

me no worse for wear but perhaps a little 

wiser as to where to check for slumbering 

scorpions in the future. 

As we snuggle into bed and turn off the 

lights, we compare scorpion counts. Closing 

our eyes, we feel the darkness folding in 

around us like a safe blanket, falling asleep 

listening to the sounds of the night creatures 

going about their nocturnal business. 

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife 

conservationist, working with SORALO, a 

Maasai land trust. She lives with her 

husband, Johann, and their two children at 

Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the 

Shompole Conservancy. 



VIPINGO 

RIDGE 

10 YEARS ON 

In 2005, a sisal plantation sat neglected, sprawled 

across the rise of an ancient sand dune. Today, after 

years of stunning transformation, this is now home 

to Kenya’s premier golf course, some of the most 

luxurious residences on the coast and a vibrant 

community of people from all over the world. 

With high-level security, world-class amenities 

and panoramic views from the Indian Ocean to 

the Chodari Hills in the west, like nowhere else in 

Kenya, Vipingo Ridge is a place of unique allure. 

As soon as you enter the gates off the 

Mombasa Road, it is easy to see the attraction; 

a beautifully manicured championship course, 

impressive Clubhouse, tennis courts, multiple 

swimming pools, horse stables, sports bar, airconditioned 

gym -there is little that Vipingo 

Ridge doesn’t offer. As a result, this is a secure 

and relaxed hub of activity where people come 

together to live, laugh and play in the company of 

friends. 

With golf at the heart of this luxury 

development, great care has been taken in 

building the 18-hole course designed by one of the 

world’s most imaginative golf course architects, 

David Jones. After officially opening in 2009, it 

was soon to win the first of multiple awards and 

became Africa’s only PGA-accredited course. Up 

high on the ridge, a game on the Baobab Course 

is cooler than you might think. Combined with 

a meandering system of lakes and streams, the 

swirling breeze may be refreshing but it also adds to 

the challenge of the game. 

Travelling back down the escarpment to the 

water’s edge, you will find Vipingo Ridge’s Beach 

Club. Launched in 2016, it soon became a familyfavourite 

along this piece of coastline due to its 

rare privacy and unspoilt nature -untouched by 

tourism and development and therefore brimming 

with nostalgia for a simpler time. Here, mouthwatering 

plates of fresh seafood are paraded across 

silvery sands and served up to happy punters 

during lazy lunches or evenings under the stars. 

With various activities including snorkelling, boules 

and beach volleyball, there is plenty on offer to 

entertain guests of all ages. Get adventurous by 

exploring the rock pools teeming with sea-life or 

simply lie back on one of the makuti-shaded swing 

seats and settle into the unhurried rhythm of 

these Swahili shores. 

With over 300 residents and homeowners, the 

growing community among an incredible setting 

makes this one of Kenya’s most sought-after 

addresses and now that the grounds have reached 

full maturity, the flamboyant trees are in bloom 

and an abundance of wildlife has returned to the 

area, Vipingo Ridge beckons people from across 

the region to sample a life better lived behind 

their walls. Until the end of the year, a special 

weekend package is the perfect opportunity to 

experience this glamourous enclave and play 

Kenya’s finest course in view of a sparkling sea. For 

just KES 14,500 per person sharing or 19,500 

single occupancy, play 9 holes on the Friday 

night and join the signature Club Night supper, 

stay in a luxury villa overnight and enjoy a hearty 

breakfast before taking on the full 18 holes on 

the Saturday. Costs include all green fees, dinner 

and bitings, 5-star accommodation and breakfast. 

The 2, 3 & 4-bedroom villas on the footprints of 

the golf course await to spoil you with unrivalled 

comfort, an Indian Ocean seascape and some 

with rooftop plunge pools too. Book your stay by 

quoting “NOMAD10” and enjoy 10% off your 

accommodation during September 2019. 

Amid the spoils of the Kenyan coast, each 

day spent here will be yours to craft and enjoy. 

Whether you want to take on the challenge of the 

PGA Baobab Course or set sail on a Swahili dhow, 

indulge in fine dining or a game of tennis with the 

kids, you are invited to come for a day and stay for 

a lifetime. 

For more information, please visit www. 

vipingoridge.com, For bookings, please contact 

reservations@vipingoridge.com. 

@vipingo.ridge 

@vipingoridge

Take your place among this secure gated community 

and live, laugh and play in the company of friends. 

COME FOR A DAY. STAY FOR A LIFETIME. 

VIPINGORIDGE.COM

CITY 

HOTELS 

We turn our focus to Nairobi in this issue, listing some of our 

favourite spots around the city; from those with a rich history 

that have been around since the early 1900s to business 

hotels, and more

CITY HOTELS 


CITY HOTELS 

HISTORIC 

FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK 

If you’re looking for a place with history, 

then The Norfolk, as it started out in 1904, 

is it. Sitting on the Lord Delamere Terrace, 

one can still imagine what it must have been 

like for a guest in the early days, drinking a 

beer overlooking green wilderness that has 

inevitably given way to the city spread.The 

then Jewish-owned hotel went through huge 

upheaval in 1980. These days, it’s a rare, 

high-class idyll in a quieter part of the centre, 

and hosts two excellent restaurants. Location: 

Harry Thuku Rd. www.fairmont.com 

SAROVA STANLEY 

It launched into Kenyan history in 1902 by 

becoming the first luxury hotel in Nairobi 

and the gracious host to prominent world 

leaders and celebrities. Sarova Stanley 

retains much of its historical charm while 

offering all the luxuries and amenities of a 

five-star hotel. Towering high up on the 8th 

floor is the charismatic and chic 1902 Club 

Lounge. With it comes a promise of the 

very best personalized business solutions; 

exclusive boardroom access, specialized 

concierge services, whole day refreshments 

and city sundowners to wind down your day. 

Location: CBD. www.sarovahotels.com 

FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK 

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL 

A celebration of sophistication and a rich 

fusion of Pan-African design influences from 

Ethiopia, the Maghreb, West Africa and 

East Africa - it merges business and leisure, 

art and gastronomy and five-star style and 

service. The 199 guestrooms and suites have 

been newly remodelled and appointed with 

the sought-after extravagances. Established 

in 1975, it stands on the land that carried 

the current National Museum in 1922. The 

hotel is a living embodiment of its locale and 

has played a role in a number of historic 

moments in Kenya over the years. Location: 

CBD outskirts www.serenahotels.com 

SAROVA STANLEY 


CITY HOTELS 

AMBASSADEUR HOTEL 

This 85 room landmark hotel which currently 

has modern art and design opened its doors 

in 1961, quickly becoming popular as an 

important hub in East African politics. It 

played host to East African presidents, senior 

government officials and civil servants as well 

as Elite Africans in various conferences and 

meetings of state. It is said that Kenya’s first 

president, the late Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, was 

a regular guest. Location: at the heart of the 

CBD, along Tom Mboya Street and opposite 

Kenya National Archives. 

www.hotelambassadeurkenya.com 

HILTON NAIROBI 

HILTON NAIROBI 

In 1969 when Hilton Nairobi was officially 

opened, it stood out as the pinnacle of 

international style and class. Owned by 

the Hilton family, the brand has a worldrenowned 

history. Today it has a good 

blend of old and new decor. Whether you 

are seeking an indoor or outdoor dining 

experience, their three restaurants, two 

distinct bars and charming Hollywoodthemed 

café offer innovative cuisine and 

friendly service. Tour the five continents 

with weekly themed buffets at Travellers 

restaurant, there’s the British-themed Jockey 

Pub, and more. Location: Mama Ngina St. 

www.hilton.com 

FAIRVIEW HOTEL 

The 127-room Fairview Hotel’s decor is 

typical of Georgian colonial style. The 

original hotel was built with a countryside 

atmosphere in mind. Having been built 

earlier, in 1946, a family bought and 

successfully ran it for three generations 

spanning almost 70 years, until only recently. 

Over the years, renovations have been done, 

careful to retain the country feel in what has 

now become a bustling urban center. Expect 

neatly manicured and well kept tropical 

gardens, four restaurants, a swimming pool, 

sundowner bar with pianist, and more. 

Location: Bishop Rd. www.clhg.com 

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL 


CITY HOTELS 

APARTMENTS 

KINGFISHER NEST 

Named after the home of the striking 

kingfisher birds, the two-bedroom serviced 

apartments here are spacious and 

comfortable, and come with a fully functional 

kitchen, two bathrooms and a large balcony. 

The apartments have a rooftop heated pool 

and gym, where you can work out or go for 

a relaxing dip while taking in the Nairobi 

skyline. Indulge in Italian and Indian cuisine 

at Feaston, the restaurant on the first floor. 

Meals can however also be provided at 

the comfort of your apartment. Location: 

Opposite the former Nakumatt Ukay, 

Westlands. www.kingfishernest.com 

GEMSUITES RIVERSIDE 

The property consists of one and two 

bedroom apartments, and presidential suites. 

Each is designed with large panel windows, 

spacious wardrobes, a living and dining 

area as well as a fully equipped open plan 

kitchen with modern facilities. If you’re not 

keen to cook, however, head up to the 11th 

floor for some continental cuisine at the main 

restaurant, Argenti, which means “silver” in 

Italian. There is even a gym with a fitness 

instructor, sauna and steam room, as well as 

a world class spa. Location: Riverside Lane. 

www.gemsuites.com 

KINGFISHER NEST 

PALACINA RESIDENCE & SUITES 

The beautifully-furnished one, two and 

three-bedroom suites which all have very 

well-equipped kitchens come with all the 

conveniences of a hotel – the Moonflower 

restaurant on site, a lobby with sofas to sink 

into, and daily breakfast. There are also 

double bedrooms available, the newer ones, 

at a higher price, in The Residence North. 

Throughout the hotel is the Palacina touch, 

and the interior design arm is situated in the 

shop just next door. There is a long indoor 

pool and gym on site. Location: off Dennis 

Pritt Rd, Kilimani. www.palacina.com 

PALACINA 


CITY HOTELS 

SERENE 

KAREN BLIXEN GARDEN 

COTTAGES 

The cottages have been designed after 

the historic Swedo House which was 

originally built as a hunting lodge in 1906. 

They give a sense of relieving history in 

elegant style, with high beam ceilings with 

fireplaces, and wood and mazeras stone 

floors complimenting modern bathrooms. All 

cottages have a verandah for relaxing while 

enjoying the birds, butterflies and flowers of 

the garden. They even have feeders to attract 

a wide variety of birds. A private swimming 

pool and private garden bar are available 

for a relaxing afternoon. Location: Karen Rd, 

Karen. www.karenblixencoffeegarden.com 

EMAKOKO 

NAIROBI TENTED CAMP 

This Porini-branded camp is an intimate 

property in a shaded part of the national 

park, and has just nine tents and a minimal 

footprint. All are set on a wooded rise above 

the main part of the camp. The communal 

area is a lovely, old-style area with large 

sofas and leather armchairs, again all 

under canvas. By staying here, guests 

access the wealth of Africa knowledge of 

the Gamewatchers Safari family, started by 

safari old-timer Jake Grieves-Cooke who has 

decades of experience in Kenya’s tourism 

sector. Location: within NNP, Langata. 

www.nairobitentedcamp.com 

EMAKOKO 

This 10-room classy property has hosted all 

manner of celebs, including Madonna. It 

is the home of Emma and Anthony Childs 

who have created a luxurious bush idyll, a 

true escape whether en route to safari, or 

just looking for an escape from the city for 

a night or two. The bedrooms, all of which 

overlook the park, are huge and designed 

with a modern, contemporary feel. Each has 

a fireplace for chilly nights, and guests can 

feast on the views from their own wooden 

decks. Within NNP, Langata. 

www.emakoko.com 

NAIROBI TENTED CAMP 


CITY HOTELS 

HOTELS IN A MALL 

TRIBE HOTEL 

The hotel is softly lit with warm colours, and 

boasts a good steakhouse called Jiko. The 

standard rooms are spacious – some with a 

bath, others are shower only – and adorned 

with colourful artworks and tribal artefacts. 

The tribal theme plays out across the hotel, 

which has some 900 pieces from around 

the continent. There’s a library with 3,000 

books, a stone table on a raised deck in the 

pool should the idea of dining with water 

lapping around your feet appeal, and Kaya 

spa. Location: Village Market. 

www.tribe-hotel.com 

TRADEMARK HOTEL 

With 215-rooms, this elegant and urban 

business hotel is inspired by the cultural and 

creative renaissance in Nairobi, reflecting 

the city’s industrious and innovative nature 

in its design. Each sound proof room offers 

a workstation, black-out curtains and various 

amenities. There is a clubhouse with striking 

views of the area on the topmost floor. 

Harvest, the hotel’s open grill brasserie, 

has excellent cuts of meat and focuses on 

farm fresh ingredients carefully paired with 

exquisite wines from their walk-in wine 

room, for the perfect dining out experience. 

Location: Village Market. 

www.trademark-hotel.com 

TRIBE HOTEL 

CITY LODGE HOTEL 

AT TWO RIVERS 

Opened by South African hospitality group 

City Lodge, it has 171 beautifully designed 

sound-proof rooms that strike a good 

balance between comfort and style. Rooms 

range from standard, presidential and those 

adapted for guests with physical disabilities. 

While the bathrooms feature showers, 

selected rooms offer baths. Guests can enjoy 

their meals at the cafe for breakfast, lunch 

and a light dinner, as well as a sundowner 

bar service. The hotel also has a swimming 

pool, boardrooms and a well equipped 

fitness center. Location: Two Rivers Mall. 

www.clhg.com 

TRADEMARK 

CITY LODGE 


CITY HOTELS 

BUDGET 

WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP 

This well-run hotel is unexpected given its 

location in the Langata suburb encircling 

a small marsh-bordered lake. It caters 

predominantly to groups and younger 

travellers, but has attractive whitewashed 

rooms as well as glamping options in the 

deluxe safari tent, and a range of more 

budget options right down to a two-man 

tent and dorm rooms. Meals are taken on 

the large deck overlooking the swimming 

pool, and it’s an enticing spot for kids given 

the playground and mini zipline. Location: 

Mokoyeti Rd West, Langata. 

www.wildebeestecocamp.com 

KENYA COMFORT HOTEL 

This is a two-star hotel with 91 rooms 

located at the junction of Muindi Mbingu 

and Monrovia Streets, overlooking the 

lovely Jeevanjee Gardens. The hotel offers 

en-suite compact budget, standard and 

superior rooms. At the restaurant, all meals 

are prepared from fresh ingredients and the 

menu largely features Kenyan cuisine. The 

group also has three-star suites, in Kilimani, 

just around State House. Enjoy an aerial 

view of Nairobi from the rooftop sun lounge 

or relax at the steam and sauna rooms. 

Personalized packages for conferences and 

more are available. Location: CBD. 

www.kenyacomfort.com 

MANYATTA BACKPACKERS 

The house can host up to 30 people. Rooms 

here range from single and double to six and 

eight person dorms, and these have shared 

washrooms. There is a communal living room 

and dining area, great for mingling with 

fellow backpackers. The outdoor restaurant 

serves freshly prepared food with an open 

fireplace for extra warmth on those cold 

Nairobi spells, best enjoyed with a drink 

from the bar. The staff is very friendly and the 

house is located in the serene neighbourhood 

of Kilimani, just about 2km from the CBD. 

www.manyattabackpackers.com 

WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP 


CITY HOTELS 

DECOR 

AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE 

An architectural gem reminiscent of Timbuktustyle 

mud buildings, the house is crammed 

with rare art pieces collected from all over 

the continent by Alan Donovan, who built it 

following the demise of the African Heritage 

gallery in town. Each of the four bedrooms 

is themed with its own eclectic style, from the 

beds with the trinket holders on the carved 

bed-posts to the rock-pool like bathroom. It’s 

also a fascinating place to simply visit for 

a tour of the weird and wonderful African 

art. Book ahead. Location: Mombasa Rd, 

Mlolongo www.africanheritagehouse.info 

THE KING POST 

This is a Swahili village smack in the middle 

of Nairobi. It features a unique architectural 

synthesis as interesting as the influences 

on the Swahili culture itself, with Omani, 

Portuguese, Indian, African and British flair. 

Right from the wooden intricately carved gate 

with large brass studs, narrow alleyways 

lead you to the tranquility of your apartment, 

and you might as well be in Zanzibar. 

Apartments range from studios to three 

bedrooms. A gym, restaurant, hair salon 

and fashion boutique are also within the 

premises. Location: Rhapta Rd, Westlands. 

www.gablesgroup.co.ke 

AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE 

DUSITD2 NAIROBI 

Here, style, entertainment and art converge. 

The decor is contemporary, colourful and 

chic with a refreshing sense of playfulness 

and exciting installations for art lovers. 

Offering world class cuisine from its array 

of bars and restaurants, stylish and spacious 

guest rooms, the award winning Devarana 

Spa and a striking red swimming pool, 

dusitD2 is the perfect urban retreat for both 

work and play. After closing down following 

the widely-covered attacks last year, the 

hotel reopens with a special accommodation 

package offering 20% off the Dusit Best 

Available Rate. Location: 14 Riverside Drive. 

www.d2nairobi.com 

DUSIT D2 


CITY HOTELS 

AIRPORT 

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON 

NAIROBI AIRPORT 

There is a distinct vertical garden which starts 

from the ground floor and winds all the way 

up to the hotel’s fifth floor. In any of the 172 

guestrooms, there is a sense of thought in the 

design. If it’s something a little more indulgent 

that you want, a bathtub overlooking the 

National Park is just the thing in the Executive 

Suite. The rooftop restaurant has a pool, 

overlooks the JKIA runway on one side and 

the park on the other, and has a colourful 

mural by graffiti artist Bankslave. Location: 

Tower Avenue JKIA. www.marriott.com 

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON JKIA 

OLE SERENI 

With the stunning views of the park, 

especially when the animals come to the 

waterhole, this alone make Ole Sereni oneof-a-kind. 

Boasting modern technology and 

furnishings with an African-inspired décor, 

all rooms serve as a comfortable home 

away from home. Each of their four dining 

options capitalise on the unique location 

along the park, whether looking out over an 

infinity pool or from the fourth-floor at Eagle’s 

The Steakhouse. Here, you can enjoy fresh 

seafood flown in from Kenya’s coast or handpicked, 

aged steaks. Location: Mombasa Rd. 

ole-sereni.com 

HILTON GARDEN INN 

Start each morning with breakfast at the 

on-site restaurant or grab a quick snack at 

the 24-hour Pavilion Pantry. Unwind with 

evening room service. Spend the afternoon at 

the 20m heated rooftop infinity pool, or the 

24 hour well-equipped fitness center. Choose 

from any of the 175 air-conditioned guest 

rooms which includes complimentary WiFi, a 

well-lit work area, mini-refrigerator and flatscreen 

TV with freeview channels. Unwind 

with a drink in the relaxed lounge bar 

before enjoying a meal in the Garden Grille. 

Location: Mombasa Rd. www.hilton.com 

OLE SERENI 


CITY HOTELS 

BUSINESS 

VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI 

Offering the perfect fusion of European 

luxury and Kenyan hospitality, Villa Rosa 

Kempinski is a unique destination where 

guests can spend time relaxing or working. 

In addition to the 200 rooms and suites 

distributed throughout its ten floors, you will 

also find exquisite dining opportunities here. 

Their dining selection includes Cafe Villa 

Rosa, K Lounge which is the lobby lounge, 

Balcony Bar, Chinese Restaurant 88, Italian 

Restaurant LUCCA and a Levant -style lounge 

and restaurant called Tambourin. The hotel 

also has a grand ballroom and Kempinski 

The Spa. Location: Chiromo Rd. 

www.kempinski.com 

PARK INN BY RADISSON 

The 140 rooms here are designed for 

comfort, with a fantastic range of amenities 

to enhance your stay. Enjoy all-day dining at 

the in-house restaurant and terrace bar, or 

relax with friends at the rooftop lounge bar 

which offers amazing views of the Westlands 

neighbourhood. Keep up with your workout 

routine in the gym, or cool off in the 

swimming pool. For business, host your next 

conference, seminar, boardroom meeting 

or event in their convenient, on-site meeting 

rooms. There are five of those, ranging from 

20 to 140 square meters. Location: Waiyaki 

Way. www.radissonhotels.com 

VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI 

SANKARA AUTOGRAPH 

COLLECTION 

Spacious luxury rooms and suites at this 

luxury hotel are bathed in natural light. The 

contemporary interior design, array of art 

and in-room facilities provide the highest 

level of comfort. There are several restaurants 

such as Graze, a New York-style steakhouse 

offering aged beef, succulent seafood and 

indulgent desserts paired with some of the 

finest wines and whiskies. With more than 

250 square metres of multi-functional event 

facilities, they offer one of the most exclusive 

and convenient venues for corporate 

gatherings in Nairobi. Location: Woodvale 

Grove, Westlands. www.sankara.com. 

SANKARA 


CITY HOTELS 

PRIDE INN RAPHTA 

This quiet three-star hotel was just recently 

refurbished. The cottage-style rooms are lined 

along a courtyard, and are shaded by trees 

and greenery making for a rather serene 

setting. The regular in-room facilities such as 

a work surface, DSTV, WiFi, fridge, a tea 

station and more are available. A swimming 

pool and restaurant with a vast multi-cuisine 

menu are available. For business travelers, 

the brand is renowned for its conferencing 

facilities, and they have another location 

in the neighbourhood just next to Graffins 

college. Location: Raphta Rd, Westlands. 

www.prideinn.co.ke 

IBIS STYLES 

THE HERON PORTICO 

Choose from a range of accommodation 

options such as the junior suites (which 

include a separate living area and a 

kitchenette) or standard and superior rooms. 

Great amenities and stunning interiors make 

this stylish and comfortable hotel an ideal 

choice. Choose from five fully equipped 

meeting and event halls for a wide array 

of gatherings like conferences, exhibitions, 

weddings and more. For foodies, there 

are four options for dining, and these offer 

patrons an array of international and local 

cuisine. Location: Jakaya Kikwete Rd. 

www.theheronportico.com 

IBIS STYLES 

This chic and stylish hotel is the ultimate 

stopover for mixing of business and leisure. 

Restaurants such as Kilele Nyama and 

Utamu are available and offer a range of 

cuisine (the former in particular has a must-try 

mixed-grill platter). If you are keen to grab 

some post-meeting drinks, Tusker Lite Sky Bar 

can get quite lively on the weekends, and is 

the perfect spot to watch the city light up at 

night. Accommodation ranges from double to 

twin, triple and family rooms. Five conference 

facilities are available. Location: Rhapta Rd, 

Westlands. www.ibisstylesnairobi.com 

PRIDE INN 


Photographer: Trevor Maingi 

@the_mentalyst 


NAIROBI 

With a background in Software 

Engineering and Aerospace Engineering, 

I decided to chase my wildest dreams 

of becoming a photographer. I've never 

really enjoyed labels and prefer to let a 

photograph speak for itself. I do however 

like to think of myself as a travel and 

lifestyle photographer/filmmaker. When 

it comes to urbanscape photography, I 

enjoy playing with lines, patterns and 

shapes. For those looking to venture into 

this field, here are some tips to always 

keep in mind: 

GEAR: Think about accessories such as a 

tripod and filters which can really play a 

big role in getting the best shots. Always 

carry extra batteries as well. 

COMPOSITION: Draw the viewer's eye by 

using leading lines, contrast, patterns and 

texture to bring cities to life. 

LENSES: Experiment with various lenses. I 

always find myself shooting using a wide 

and a zoom lens. The former is amazing, 

but details in a shot tell a different story. 

MOTION: This is where the ND filter 

comes through. Use one during the day 

to be able to shoot long exposure photos. 

At night, you will have less light for long 

exposures. 

PEOPLE: Incorporate human elements into 

your composition. People can not only 

bring life to cities but also help convey 

scale. 

RESEARCH: Find out key locations or 

vantage points to shoot from. Also find out 

if you need permission or a license. 

TIME OF DAY: Light is key. Pay attention to 

how it brings life to a city. I enjoy shooting 

in the early morning light, and the streets 

are also usually less busy. Also use 

shadows and sunsets to your advantage. 

VANTAGE POINT: If there are tall buildings 

next to you, shoot from street level looking 

up. Try different angles. 

Manual focus: With urbanscape, you 

won't be dealing with fast moving objects 

so switch to manual focus for consistently 

sharp images. 

EXPERIMENT: Go to the same area a 

couple times and try various techniques. 

SAFETY: Every city has its fair share of the 

good and bad. Ask around for places to 

avoid and always be aware of what's 

happening around you. 



NAIROBI 


A MARA SAFARI 

WITH MY DAUGHTER 

For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays out some fun activities to 

do on safari to ensure both parents and their children have fun. 


ADVENTURE 

T 

he first time I took my 

daughter on safari as 

a three year old, she 

was transfixed with the 

experience and the 

creatures she had only 

ever heard about in stories. 

Fast forward to five years and innumerable 

excursions later, now the sighting of a 

big cat does no more than elicit a slight 

murmur of interest. A challenge to many 

seasoned parents on a bush excursion is 

how to make it an enjoyable, fulfilling and 

worthwhile experience for younger children 

whilst getting the most out of the experience 

themselves, all while avoiding arguments. 

Over the years, I have sought to instill a 

knowledge and passion for the country she 

knows as home, and in particular its flora 

and fauna. Children learn through interaction 

and remember through experiences so for 

me it was important to incorporate both 

while on safari, as well as hopefully getting 

a few epic pictures for the family album. 

The Mara never disappoints, and despite 

the heavy rains, this trip 

was no exception. In the 

quieter times, we were 

able to test each other’s 

knowledge and that of 

our Masai guide John 

by setting each other 

quizzes to test our bush 

knowledge. A pencil 

and notebook are cheap 

tools to occupy young 

minds, and they can also 

get to draw and colour 

what they see. 

A small inexpensive 

camera is another great 

investment, although it 

inevitably means a lot 

of time subsequently 

spent deleting blurry 

selfies. The first time 

she was able to enter 

the school wildlife 

photography competition with her own 

pictures led to a sustained interest in all 

things four-legged which gives hope that 

a future “photographer of the year” may 

currently be undergoing the early stages of 

apprenticeship. 

Back at camp, the guides and staff 

had prepared a range of fun activities. An 

increasingly competitive set of trials ensued 

between the staff, the determined eight year 

old and her talent-deficient father. These 

included the making of a bow and arrow 

followed by the multiple perforation of the 

cardboard-box derived target. 

We also took a 

mould of a big cat’s 

footprint. Much of 

the fun was in the 

scrambling around 

to find a suitable 

print, then being 

patient enough for 

it to set. 

Next up was lighting fires the traditional 

Maasai way, by rapidly rubbing 

‘sandpaper wood’ against another soft 

wooden base. Enough friction is created 

resulting in light embers which are then 

transferred to some very dry elephant dung, 

and this is carefully nurtured to create 

flames. Not nearly as easy as it looks, it 

transpired, when it was our turn. 

We also took a mould of a big cat’s 

footprint. Much of the fun was in the 

scrambling around to find a suitable print, 

then being patient enough for it to set. For 

my daughter, this came in handy while 

relating the experiences of the safari to her 

school friends in the show-and-tell section. 

The wonders of the bush can easily be 

explored on foot, and little experiences 

here and there such as luring a wolf-spider 

from its hole with a blade of grass or 

trying to determine which animal frequents 

a particular burrow based on what 

droppings or tracks are nearby, are always 

exciting. There is also the cheeky insertion 

of a finger into wet buffalo dung then 

pretending to taste it that 

always elicits giggles and 

mirthful faces of disgust. 

A family safari is 

however just as much 

about spending quality 

time together away 

from the distractions 

of everyday life as it is 

about the game viewing. 

I found her opening up 

about the highs and lows 

of school life, what was 

on her mind and being 

able to talk about hopes, 

dreams and aspirations 

in a way that was rarely 

possible around hectic 

work, school and social 

schedules. To me that's 

the real beauty of the 

experience, time together 

reminiscent of a bygone 

era and making memories that we will both 

remember. 

We stayed at Basecamp Leopard Hill, 

the newest addition to their portfolio in 

the Naibosho conservancy. One of the 

innovations in their well-outfitted tents is 

the ability to open a portion of the roof 

at the press of a button which will appeal 

to stargazers, who need not even get out 

of bed. Each room also has its own deck 

and firepit from where parents can enjoy 

romantic meals while the children sleep 

peacefully inside. 


A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH 

SOUTH NYANZA 

From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing village in Homa Bay, 

Martyn Pollock tears across counties on the wheels of a Honda Ace 

before hopping aboard a speedboat to the little-known Ngodhe Rao 

Island, and back. 


ROAD TRIP 

Neon lights and flat screen 

TVs illuminate the clubs 

on Kisii’s second street. 

Couples mostly, sit 

packed together into small 

booths eating ugali and 

choma late into the night 

while Afro-Dance-Pop blares out of huge 

speakers several decibels too loud. Despite 

the nightlife on offer, I find myself on some 

backstreet dive. An unmarked door takes 

me and a friend four or five storeys up to 

what reminds me of a Scottish working-man’s 

social club; faded smoke-stained furniture 

and used sodden beer mats. Patrons line the 

bar knocking back high-octane Guinness 

and nodding to the rhythm. The band plays 

Kisii traditional music with a Latin beat, it’s 

a sound like I’ve never heard before and the 

place is jumping. 

Dancing is an all-male sport with plenty 

of awkward eye contact. In wellie boots and 

a ski jacket, our de facto leader controls the 

pack; he drops, and we follow time and time 

again. The band sweating into their mics 

seem to constantly lift the 

tempo and it’s gone half past 

three by the time we decide 

to make the journey home. 

Kisii has some surprisingly 

active nightlife. It’s the kind of 

surprise night you don’t forget 

and the next morning I’m 

feeling worse for wear. But 

I’ve got a free weekend, time 

to kill and I want to make the 

most of what South Nyanza 

has to offer. 

The Honda Ace is to the 

piki piki world what the Prado 

is to the world of luxury 4x4s: 

a premium machine with a 

premium price tag. They are 

pretty much all the same bike, 

but this has a feel of quality 

and workmanship that means 

even the older bikes still 

look and feel new. A chorus of ‘muzungu, 

muzungu’ follows as I jockey through Kisii 

town traffic. Stopping, starting, weaving 

the ride is exciting if a bit terrifying. After a 

couple of near misses, I’m free of the urban 

chaos and on the open road. Ahead of me 

lies pristine Chinese tarmac meandering its 

way westwards down, down, and further 

down towards Lake Victoria. 

Kisii town, and Kisii County for that 

matter, do not get large numbers of foreign 

visitors. A small Indian community of 

business owners and less than a handful of 

expats (of which I am one) and that’s the 

whole county. A shame really as the rolling 

hills of South Nyanza are truly spectacular. 

Banana, coffee, tea, avocado and of course 

maize cover every inch of land. If you drop 

seeds here, they will grow. And for this 

reason, it is the most populous county in 

Kenya. It’s a sort of urban-rural sprawl where 

families are densely packed into tiny parcels 

of subsistence farm land. The villages are 

idyllic. Immaculate homesteads with wellbuilt 

houses, only the mabati sheet roofs and 

mobile phones serve as reminders that you 

are indeed in 2019. 

I take advantage of the new road and 

gun the bike through its 4-speed box all the 

way to a brisk 95Kph (downhill). The open 

road is a dream, but I continually remind 

myself that dangers lurk, and I try to remain 

focussed. Soon I’m in Homa Bay county 

and the dramatic landscape of the lakeside 

mountains and islands unfold in front of me. 

I try not to get too lost in the moment for fear 

of speed bumps, potholes and of course 

other road users. 

A boy of around nine years holds his 

hand out at the side of the road. As I come 

to a stop, he just stares at me wondering if 

his eyes are telling the truth. ‘Wathi’, the only 

word I know in Luo, which means ‘let’s go’, 

and we are on our way. We ride in silence 

for a couple of miles until he says ‘hapa’ and 

as I come to a stop he runs off into the bush 

to tell everyone he meets about his free ride, 

questioning his own story with each iteration. 

I’ve decided to camp at Wayando 

Beach Eco Resort and I pitch my tent with 

a beautiful view of the lake. It’s a modest 

place in an excellent setting, serving up 

succulent fresh fish dishes at bargain prices. 

A great place to stay if you are travelling 

on a budget. After nearly three hours in 

the saddle and darkness setting in, I settle 

down for a few beers in front of an open 

fire watching the shifting shadows as the sun 

light turns to moonlight over this great body 

of water. 

The next morning, I charter a fishing 

boat to Ngodhe Rao Island with the only 

other guest in the resort. Under a patchwork 

sail we cruise between the two islands 

at great speed. Our fishermen cum tour 

operators are eager to please. There’s 

Walter, the confident outgoing one with a 

steady stream of interesting facts, Bernard, 

the intern who is doing almost all the work 

and Dickenson who sits at the front almost 

in silence. It’s hard to work out who is the 

boss, but my money is on Dickenson. The 

waves lap at the boat as the morning sun 

begins to show its strength on my Celtic 

skin. The Sound is awash with boats, but 

hardly an engine can be heard as almost 

every boat is as the traditional dhow sailing 

design. Ngodhe Rao Island reminds me 

of a mythical pirate island in some classic 

eighteenth-century novel. Two distinct rocky 

peaks that lead down steep slopes to the 

lake. Coves and inlets patrolled by tropical 

birds and countless monitor lizards. But 

far from deserted this island has a vibrant 

community. 

We land at a small fishing village on the 

biggest stretch of beach. It 

is the closest thing to a town 

on the island. There are 

no cars and no bikes, and 

the pace of life is probably 

little changed in decades. 

Kids play in the water while 

adults fish with varying 

methods; line and net with 

the latter being a communal 

affair. Instantly I’m roped into 

hauling in the day’s catch. 

No mean feat as huge nets 

are pulled by opposing 

parties from hundreds of 

meters offshore. After about 

40 mins of rhythmic heaving, 

I’m exhausted, but the net 

is on shore and the catch 

distributed evenly among 

the two parties. As I watch, 

a man is weaving a net on 

a huge wooden loom. “Which country?” 

he asks. “UK,” I reply. “How do you like 

Trump? I like Trump, he is a great leader,” 

he says. I nod, not wanting to correct him. 

Geopolitics aside and we are back on the 

boat to finish the circumnavigation of this 

idyllic isle and back to our campsite. 

I’ve got a three-hour blast ahead of me 

and I want to get back before nightfall. For 

all its pluses, the Honda Ace doesn’t have 

a fuel gauge which makes me nervous 

about coming unstuck. The journey back is 

smoother and faster. I’m used to the bike 

now and feel much more confident on the 

road. I turn into Suneka, the first town back 

in Gusii lands and the chorus of “muzungu” 

from every man, child and mzee begins 

again. I’m home. 


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SANDSTORM: WHAT I PACK 

Dorothy Tote bag from 

Endo² X Sandstorm 

collection 

Ksh6,900 

Patti Endo is a Kenyan-Japanese artist who, together with 

her sister Yvonne, just collaborated with Sandstorm on the 

Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags featuring Patti's signature 

art. When running around Nairobi, here’s what you’re likely 

to find in her tote bag. 

ZARA LEATHER JACKET - You can never go wrong with a leather jacket; 

it's a perfect statement piece that goes with absolutely everything I wear, 

and also keeps me warm in this unpredictable Nairobi weather. 

ROGER & GALLET PERFUME “THÉ FANTAISIE”- One of my favourite 

everyday scents. I just throw it in my bag and spruce up as needed 

wherever I go. 

LUSH HANDY GURUGU HAND CREAM - Moisturised skin is everything 

to me, especially because I have tattoos. This all-natural cream keeps my 

skin soft and helps keep my tattoos looking vibrant. 

RAY-BAN ROUND METAL SUNGLASSES - Essential for my day to day...you 

can never go wrong with a pair of Ray Bans! 

MOSCHINO MAKEUP BAG - I never leave the house without it! It carries 

all my little bits and bobs which mainly includes my make up items for a 

touch up here and there. 

FENTY LIP PAINT IN “UNCENSORED” - Red Lipstick is my go-to! I'm 

always rocking it no matter what. My favourites are either Fenty Lip Paint 

in “Uncensored” or Mac “Ruby Woo”. 

CARMEX CHERRY LIP BALM - hands down my favourite lip balm ever. 

PHONE AND CHARGER- Just can’t live without them. I’m always chatting 

with family and friends, and also like to take pictures of adorable 

animals. 



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Nomad CIty Hotels

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