World Of Wine Winter 2019

World of Wine 

CAMERON 

VOLUME 2 WINTER 2019 

DOUGLAS MS 

IT'S A MATCH 

Food and wine 

pairs to love 

CELLAR 

SECRETS 

Backstage at the vineyard 

PLUS finding your 

favourite drop 

WINE 

LABEL 

LANGUAGE 

EXPLAINED 

on 

Reds 

the Rise

A world first for 

New Zealand wine 

Villa Maria named in the 

Top 3 brands globally 

Judged by 130 masters of wines, wine writers wine buyers, 

and journalists – this is the first time ever a New Zealand wine 

brand has been named Top 3 in the world.

SEDDON VINEYARD, MARLBOROUGH

CONTENTS WINTER 

World of Wine 

CAMERON DOUGLAS MS 

37 Gris-ing the wheels: a bottle 

of Pinot Gris is a favourite for 

food matching 

39 Coq au vin: 

Cam picks the best wine for Josh 

Emett’s delicious chicken dish 

40 A Taste of the new: 

A meeting of minds led to the 

creation of a new style of fine wine 

42 Kiss from a Rosé: 

Pink is the new black – no matter 

what shade you choose 

COVER DESIGNED BY DEBBIE DALE 

Cameron enjoying a Hawke's Bay 

Stonecroft Chardonnay 

PUBLISHED BY 

The Intermedia Group Ltd 

505 Rosebank Road, Avondale 

Auckland, 1026, New Zealand 

ph: 021 361 136 

MANAGING DIRECTOR-PUBLISHER 

Dale Spencer 

dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz 

EDITOR 

Catherine Milford 

eatscooksreads@gmail.com 

ph: 021 823 034 

SALES DIRECTOR 

Jaqueline Freeman 

jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz 

ph: 0212 867 600 

7 About the Master 

Cameron Douglas is – quite literally 

– the Master of Wine. 

8 Roaming the regions 

How can each region of New 

Zealand produce such a diverse 

array of wine? 

10 History in the making: 

A couple’s love of history – and 

of Pinot Noir led to a dramatic 

revelation in Marlborough 

13 Cellar secrets: 

Where to find our best winery 

experiences 

17 Farm fresh: 

Slow cooked lamb oyster shoulder 

makes a perfect winter match for 

this Pinot Noir 

18 Wine princess gets her crown: 

The woman behind the Crown 

Range story 

21 What’s in a white? 

You might know our nation’s top 

three whites – what’s the fourth? 

22 Focus on Chardonnay 

30 Timeless Tohu Whenua: 

It’s all about balance for this special 

Māori vineyard 

32 A Sauvignon for all seasons 

This Kiwi favourite is breaking 

new ground 

45 Organically speaking: 

The rise of natural growing 

techniques is creating some 

innovative flavours 

46 Label language unpicked: 

Taking time to read a wine label – 

and those bottle stickers – can be 

very revealing 

48 Shine bright like a sparkle: 

New Zealand’s top sparkling wines 

52 Aromatically speaking: 

Unfolding the defining flavours of 

an aromatic wine 

55 The romance of reds: 

New Zealand’s iconic red wine 

industry is flourishing 

57 Perfectly Pinot: 

Our love story with Pinot Noir 

is intensifying 

60 Mulled wine: 

Cam’s top wine picks for this 

delicious winter tipple 

64 Beautiful blends: 

Look to New Zealand reds for 

some gorgeous style innovation 

69 Sweet stuff: 

Don’t just keep these fine flavours 

for dessert 

70 Cam’s Back Page: 

Which wine would you hide behind 

the velvet curtain? 

4 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Sofia & Jackson’s wedding, Melbourne 

Marlborough Wine and Food Festival 

2019 - To Do 

Running with the bulls 

Orangutans in Borneo 

Half Marathon, Queenstown 

Proposal to all staff - 4 day week? 

Sunday 1pm 

Pick up bottle of Ara! 

YOUR JOURNEY.

Cameron Douglas, MS: 

A WORD 

FROM 

THE 

MASTER 

Welcome to the second 

edition of World of Wine 

– we didn’t know if there 

would be a second but it 

seems you fine people are keen to know 

more. Truth is, living in NZ means you’re 

living in your own exciting world of wine 

– one that is evolving fast and fabulously. 

I would simply like to offer some guidance 

and insights on what to drink and how to 

get the most out of your vinous promiscuity 

and wine budget – seems most of what our 

great little country produces passes over 

my tasting table so I am likely able to offer 

an informed opinion. 

Before we start however, I’d like to 

explain what a Sommelier is and what 

they do. It’s no longer a guy in a suit 

who instructs you on the appropriate 

tipple (though I do have a wardrobe of 

exceptionally fine suits). 

A Sommelier is a trained and 

knowledgeable professional who is able to 

manage all aspects of beverage service. By 

this I mean knowing about anything potable 

- from water to ingredients for cocktails, 

from beer to port, from sake to spirits; 

red, white, pink, sparkling, orange, natural, 

organic or bio-dynamic wine selections. 

A Sommelier is your adviser on what to 

buy, what and how to cellar, when to drink 

it, and recommendations for food and wine 

matching. Sommeliers who wear a badge 

of office may also be the gatekeepers for 

wine lists in restaurants and hotels, or 

manage purchasing budgets for collectors. 

Most importantly though, a Sommelier 

is a professional whose aim is to help you 

select the right beverage specifically for you. 

The story doesn’t end here - in fact it’s 

just beginning. A Sommelier’s role includes 

helping you discover wines that make you 

smile, wines that make you want a second 

glass, wines that make you want to tell the 

story of when… 

As I travel around the world, it's become 

obvious the younger generation are 

becoming more involved in what and how 

they drink, and their palates are definitely 

becoming more discerning. New Zealand’s 

wine industry is relatively young itself – so 

we’re well placed to be at the forefront 

of this trend. We're even making movies 

about wine now; A Seat At The Table, a 

movie made by my mates Dave Nash and 

Simon Mark-Brown in which I make a 

few appearances, was released at this year's 

New Zealand International Film Festival. 

It's already been accepted for the Vancouver 

Festival and Netflix! The USA movie Somm 

(about the journey to become a Master 

Sommelier) has had such an explosion of 

interest it is now a TV series. 

My world is a World of Wine – and it’s 

a great journey – so turn the page and 

join me. 

Cameron Douglas, MS 


EDITORIAL 

All About 

Cameron 

Master Sommelier 

While your chances 

of encountering 

a Sommelier during 

a good dining 

experience are quite high, you’d 

be hard pressed to find yourself 

being advised on wine by a Master 

Sommelier. That’s because there are 

around only 257 individuals in the 

world who have earned the title of 

Master Sommelier from the Court 

of Master Sommeliers since its 

inception in 1969. New Zealand is 

home to just one of these – Cameron 

Douglas MS. 

A Sommelier is a wine and 

beverage professional. If you’re after 

a specific taste, flavour or a good 

wine match that’s been created for 

the food you’re about to tuck into, 

your Sommelier is the person to 

talk to. He or she can tell you what 

wines and beverages are available, 

any specialised varieties within the 

restaurant, and perhaps even a wine 

that isn’t listed on the menu. 

A Master Sommelier, however, 

is a whole other barrel of wine. 

An MS is required to be beyond 

knowledgeable about every beverage 

- from wine, sake, spirits, cocktails, 

fortifieds, beers through to coffee 

and water. Commonly regarded as 

the most difficult exam in the world, 

the title of Master Sommelier is 

considered to be the highest and 

most prestigious title available to 

professional Sommeliers in the world. 

It is only bestowed on the very few 

people who first pass (generally over 

a number of years) through four 

rigorous levels, then face a series of 

intense exams - theory, service and 

tasting, from the Court of Master 

Sommeliers. And it isn’t open to 

anyone; these exams are by invitation 

only. Very few people pass these 

exams first time around; Cameron 

persevered through huge 

obstacles, and when he 

passed it was with the 

top marks in that year. 

As a Master 

Sommelier, Cameron 

can, in moments, 

identify country, region, 

topography, winemaking 

techniques, climate and 

vineyards, as well as 

suitable characteristics 

for pairing, from a single 

taste. His wine and 

beverage knowledge 

enriches his students 

at AUT University 

where he is a Senior 

Lecturer in charge of the Wine and 

Beverage programme, and takes 

him around the world, where he 

regularly teaches, judges, presents 

at conferences, and has speaking 

engagements throughout North 

America, and in London, Australia, 

South East Asia, China – he is about 

to add Italy to his list. He is also 

a regular expert speaker on six star 

Crystal Cruises. 

He selects wine for and is part of 

the NZ Wine Navigator team – an 

online supplier of NZ wine in the 

USA. He lives his life around his 

enthusiasm for all things beverage 

– teaching, travelling, tasting and 

talking. He judges and presents 

wine regularly in the USA, the UK, 

Australia and Asia. 

Cameron writes wine lists for top 

restaurants around New Zealand, 

including Hiakai, Huami at SkyCity 

Auckland, The Lodge Bar in 

Queenstown, and continues to advise 

at renowned New York Michelinstarred 

restaurant The Musket Room, 

run by Kiwi Matt Lambert. W 

What is the points system? 

The 100-point wine scoring system is used worldwide as a way for wine experts 

to explain and quantify their thoughts on a wine. The system is based on the 

American high school marking system, so the scale starts at 50 (rather than 0), 

and can be broken down as follows: 

95–100 Classic: a great wine 

90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style 

85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities 

80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine 

75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws 

50–74 Not recommended 

For more information on Cameron, visit https://www.camdouglasms.com/ 

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 7

Walking in a 

Wine Wonderland 

FROM NORTHLAND TO CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND WINE REGIONS HAVE 

A REPUTATION FOR EXCELLENCE. OUR LANDSCAPES PROVIDE A DIVERSE RANGE OF 

SOILS AND GROWING CONDITIONS, REVEALING SOME UNIQUE FLAVOUR SIGNATURES 

New Zealand has a twohundred-year 

history 

in wine which began 

in 1819 in Kerikeri, 

Bay of Islands where the first vines 

were planted by missionary Samuel 

Marsden. It’s a small region, but 

Northland has some fine wine 

producers, including The Landing 

and Karikari Estate. 

Stretching from Matakana to 

Clevedon and across the water to 

Waiheke, the Auckland region is 

key for wine production. The soil/ 

landscape type is volcanic, with a 

heavy clay influence. The region 

supports many varieties - from Pinot 

Gris at Brick Bay Wines, too Air 

New Zealand Fine Wines of New 

Zealand varieties Kumeu River 

Chardonnay and Waiheke Islandbased 

Stonyridge red blends, and 

Cabernet Franc from Puriri Hills 

Estate. Villa Maria, one of New 

Zealand's premier producers (and 

also an Air NZ Fine Wine), has a 

renowned vineyard and winemaking 

facility at Ihumatao, Mangere. 

The Waikato and Bay of Plenty 

form a single wine region. Once 

well known for its aromatic wine 

production, this is now home to only 

two significant estates, Ohinemuri 

and Vilagrad Winery. 

Gisborne is renowned for being 

geographically tricky - it’s also 

well known for its Chardonnay, 

Viognier, and Sparkling Wine 

production. It’s home to James 

and Annie Millton – pioneers of 

biodynamics and a benchmark in 

the practice. Undulating hillsides 

and clay and silty loam soils create 

primarily fuller-bodied whites, 

though some Syrah and Merlots 

are notable. A few favourites for me 

include Odyssey Wines Chardonnay, 

Huntaway Gewürztraminer, Spade 

Oak Albariño, Coopers Creek 

Chardonnay, Matawhero Chardonnay 

and Millton Vineyards Syrah. River 

Sun Nurseries has a significant 

operation, supplying the majority 

of grape plant material for New 

Zealand’s wine sector. 

The stunning Hawke’s Bay with 

its free-draining riverstone soil base 

produces some great wines, with 27 

different soil types and one of NZ’s 

warmest growing seasons, creating 

pockets of diversity and potential. 

So many notable producers come 

from here - Trinity Hill, Te Mata 

and Pask Estates with their Syrah 

stories; Cabernet-led blends and 

Chardonnay from Villa Maria, Craggy 

Range, Sacred Hill, Esk Valley and Te 

Awa Estates. Relatively new to the 

Bay is Elephant Hill – the wines are 

high quality, especially in their single 

vineyard series – and the restaurant 

offers a sophisticated dining 

experience. Not so new, yet equally 

fantastic, is Clearview Estate whose 

Reserve Chardonnay is outstanding. 

Part of Wellington province and 

the southernmost wine region of 

the North Island is the Wairarapa, 

where the sub-regions of Gladstone, 

Masterton, and Martinborough, are 

located. The region is rich in history 

– I recently tasted a wine from 1903 

grown and made there – thought to 

be Pinot Noir. The clay loams, gravels 

and limestones mean it is notably 

home to fine Pinot Noir, Syrah and 

Riesling. Many great wine producers 

create some of our best known 

brands there: no story of the region 

is complete without mentioning 

Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Dry 

River, Escarpment, Martinborough 

and Schubert wines. A few of 


WINES BY REGION 

the new(ish) kids on the block 

making some delicious wines are: 

Haythornthwaite (Gewürztraminer); 

Luna Estate, Big Sky, The Elder, 

Brodie, Julicher and Urlar (all 

producing excellent Pinots Noir). 

The view from Prophet's Rock, Central Otago. 

Photo credit Paul Pujol 

SOUTH ISLAND 

At the top of the South Island, 

Nelson is a small yet significant 

contributor to our wine story. It has 

long sunshine hours and the western 

Moutere Hills provide shelter, though 

autumn rains can be challenging. 

The soils vary from riverbed to more 

clay-based in the hills. Neudorf 

wines consistently impress with their 

complexity and true expression of 

site. Their flagship Chardonnays and 

Pinots Noir are investment wines, 

and fans of more aromatic styles 

should also try their Albariño and 

Riesling. Other regional producers of 

note include Blackenbrook (for their 

Gewürztraminer); Aronui, Brightwater, 

Renato, Richmond Plains and Rimu 

Grove – all producing, among other 

varieties, great Pinot Noir. 

Marlborough is home to our most 

significant plantings of Sauvignon 

Blanc, still the most important 

variety for NZ. It isn’t difficult to 

find high quality examples; currently 

Churton, Mahi, Clos Marguerite, 

Dog Point, Greywacke and Astrolabe 

are among my favourite Sauvignon 

Blanc producers. 

Marlborough Methode 

Traditionnelle sparkling wine is 

outstanding – many examples 

rivalling its northern hemisphere 

counterparts. It is individual, and yet 

a true reflection of place, time and 

potential – (see page 48 for more on 

this delightful variety). 

No 1 Family Estate, with their 

family roots in Champagne, are 

leaders in a growing list of bottlefermented 

sparkling wine producers. 

Cloudy Bay (Rosé), Huia (Blanc 

de Blancs) and Nautilus are also 

noteworthy producers – all dedicated 

specialists with a focus on traditional 

blends and individual expression. 

Lawson’s Dry Hills, Foxes Island, 

Clos Marguerite, and Two Rivers 

are among my favourites in a long 

(and growing) list of fine Pinot 

Noir producers. 

Wines to add to your 'must-try' 

list from Marlborough must include: 

Te Whare Ra and Fromm Syrah, 

Hans Herzog Spirit of Marlborough 

(Bordeaux Blend), Air NZ Fine 

Wine Framingham Noble Riesling 

and Johanneshof Gewürztraminer, 

pretty much anything from Tohu, and 

Mahi Chardonnay. 

Canterbury land has much to 

offer, with soils of limestone, gravels 

and clays and a semi-continental 

climate producing some outstanding 

and delicious wines. Anything 

from Pegasus Bay, Pinots Noir and 

Chardonnay from Pyramid Valley, 

South Island terroir differs dramatically 

from its Northern counterpart. 

Bell Hill, Tongue in Groove, and 

Greystone wines should be on your 

bucket list. Bellbird Spring and 

Waipara Hills are also producing 

great examples. 

With just a handful of producers 

in the Waitaki Valley region (North 

Otago) the rugged countryside 

hides some special vineyard sites and 

delicious wines – the landscape is 

challenging and dramatic, and frost 

is a frequent threat. Pinots Noir 

from Ostler, Valli and Q wines are 

among the best in New Zealand. The 

perseverance in adverse conditions of 

the owners pays great dividends. 

Central Otago is arguably New 

Zealand’s most dramatic and exciting 

wine region. With many producers of 

fine Pinots Noir, Riesling, Sparkling 

wines and Chardonnay, there is a 

lot to explore in this alpine region. 

Felton Road, Akarua, Wooing 

Tree, Rippon, Mount Difficulty, 

Quartz Reef, Prophets Rock, 

Peregrine, Rockburn, Gibbston 

Valley and Misha’s Vineyard are all 

leader producers. 

Some of the excellent estates you 

may be less familiar with include: 

Akitu, Aurum, Bald Hills, Burn 

Cottage, Ceres, Domain Road, 

Grasshopper Rock, Hawkdun Rise, 

Lamont, Ruru, Perseverance Estate, 

Mondillo, Mount Edward, Nevis 

Bluff, Judge Rock and Two Paddocks. 

Throughout the NZ wine regions, 

the standards are increasingly high 

and it is difficult to create a definitive 

list of the best. I am extremely 

fortunate that most of the producers 

provide me with wines to review. I’m 

seldom disappointed. W 


Brothers in 

Auntsfield 

A TASTE FOR THE UNUSUAL LED TO THE DISCOVERY OF A 

FAMILY HEIRLOOM IN MARLBOROUGH 

The tale of how Auntsfield 

came to be resembles 

a movie script. It’s the 

story of a historical 

secret, that only reveals itself when 

the right people discover it, leading 

to the unearthing of an unlikely 

surprise, which turns out to be a 

priceless treasure. 

Graeme and Linda Cowley knew 

nothing about wine – other than 

how to thoroughly enjoy it - when 

they decided a life change was in 

order in the late 1990s. Graeme had 

had a career in the film industry for 

30 years, working on several iconic 

Kiwi movies including Goodbye 

Pork Pie and Smash Palace, but 

felt the time was right to move on. 

“Vineyard development and wine 

production is much like filmmaking; 

they are both vertically integrated, 

from the technical side through to 

the running of the project, so there 

were similarities – look how many 

film professionals buy wineries!” says 

Graeme. “Going into wine was an 

attractive change, but not something 

I knew much about, but we were 

young enough and confident enough 

to believe we could learn anything.” 

The pair set about searching 

for somewhere unique; any old 

vineyard wouldn’t do. “It had to 

be somewhere special, something 

that felt magic,” explains Graeme, 

who had decided on pinot noir. 

After several fruitless trips to winerich 

areas like Central Otago and 

Martinborough, an old film industry 

colleague suggested they look at a 

hillside in Marlborough. Different 

to anything else they had seen, the 

site had steep hills, no accessible 

water, wasn’t for sale by the current 

owner, and had no grapes growing 

on it. “Mum and Dad basically took 

a punt,” says Ben Cowley, Graeme 

and Linda’s son, who works as the 

viticulturalist and managing director 

at Auntsfield alongside his brother 

Luc, Auntsfield’s winemaker. “The 

real estate agents were getting very 

frustrated; they’d shown them so 

many places that were perfect for 

growing grapes, and now they 

wanted to buy somewhere based on 

the ‘feel’.” 

After much negotiation, the 

Cowleys secured the land; now it 

was time to see if they could actually 

grow vines. “My colleague had 

spent a lot of time studying the local 

environment, and he thought it was 

doable, but no-one knew how to 

plant on the hills,” says Graeme. “We 

dug big holes in a grid pattern across 

the site, which I jumped down and 

photographed. We discovered there 

was a variety of soils, and the hills 

affected where the wind and the 

heat was; it was perfect. Someone 

had mentioned to me they thought 

the grapes would grow fine because 

they had a vague recollection of 

something being there in the old 

days, but with no other planted vines 

visible from the highest point of the 

hill looking north, it was a gamble.” 

With no water on the property, 

finding it was crucial to the 

project. A local old-timer proved 

indispensable when he suggested 

they’d have some success on the 

top north-western section of the 

property. Hillside planting wasn’t 

the norm at the time, so they 

looked outside the region, mostly at 

Waiheke Island, to learn about layout, 

irrigation systems and planting. 

“It was a massive risk, but my 

parents loved the challenge – they 

Ben Cowley (left) is Auntsfield's viticulturist; 

brother Luc is the winemaker 

have always made decisions based 

on passion and intuition rather than 

business. They go with what brings 

them excitement, and they loved the 

place,” says Ben. Thus began what 

became some pioneering industry 

changes, both for Auntsfield and for 

Marlborough. Blocks couldn’t be laid 

out in straight lines, and had to take 

into account the topography and soil 

types. The Auntsfield estate lent itself 

beautifully to low-crop, structured 

pinots noir and chardonnays 

with depth, elegance and plenty 

of minerality. 

But Graeme had never forgotten 

about the possibility of previous 

plantings. A keen researcher, he 

discovered there had indeed been 

grapes here before. A 22-year-old 


BEHIND CLOSED DOORS 

David Herd had arrived in Nelson 

from Dundee, Scotland in 1852 with 

his wife and child, on Ticonderoga, 

the first of the multi-deck 

immigrant ships. David got a job on 

Meadowbank, a huge cattle station, 

but on retiring, bought the land on 

which he had dreamed of making 

wine. He planted his first grapes in 

1873 on the Auntsfield Estate and 

made wine until his death in 1905. 

His son-in-law continued the legacy 

until 1931. 

Fascinated, Graeme searched for 

a descendant of David Herd. “One 

man called John Gleeson was in his 

80s and remembered it from his 

childhood. He showed me around; 

his mother had told him stories of 

living here as a young girl, being 

made to help by trampling the grapes 

with her sister. She had hated it,” says 

Graeme. “He described how it used 

to look, and showed me where the 

vines had been.” Hidden away on the 

vineyard was Herd’s original wine 

cellar, which has now been restored, 

and John’s mother, over 100 years 

old, was brought to see it, and given 

some of the first wine the Cowleys 

had made. 

Discovering they were on historic 

ground was a benchmark moment 

for the Cowleys. Graeme spent 

years researching the history of the 

land, the family and the wine. “We 

discovered David had definitely 

grown muscat, although various 

names were used for it back in 

those days,” says Graeme. Through 

numbering systems, Graeme and 

Linda were able to track down a few 

of the mother vines planted by Herd. 

After treatment and propagation, 

they were planted – by David Herd’s 

great-grandson – in the restored 

vineyard in 2004. In 2005, Auntsfield 

produced a special Pinot Noir named 

Heritage, to commemorate 100 years 

since David’s death. In each bottle of 

Heritage wine was a little of the one 

remaining bottle of wine from the 

original Auntsfield Estate. 

Today, the Cowley family 

produces an equal amount of 

pinot noir and sauvignon blanc at 

Auntsfield, plus a little chardonnay. 

“In my opinion, Marlborough is 

not only the greatest region in the 

world to grow Sauvignon Blanc, 

but has the potential to do so with 

Pinot Noir as well," says Ben. “There 

are some unique challenges on this 

site – poor soil means little natural 

nutrition, which drives a particular 

wine style, but we let the vines 

dictate what we do. We can’t produce 

large commercial quantities, but 

that suits our philosophy perfectly.” 

The family have also planted 

wetlands and natives as part of the 

restoration project, and to maintain a 

sustainable environment. 

“Having such a rich history is 

wonderful, and I think everyone on 

the vineyard feels that sense of place,” 

says Graeme. “The care that goes into 

the vine is beyond anyone here now 

– it’s in the land itself.” W 


A brand new look for 

an old favourite! 

Old Coach Road is the historic route used in the 1850s for 

the first mail run through the Moutere Hills in Nelson, near 

to where the Seifried winemaking story begins. 

Our parents, Hermann & Agnes planted their first vineyard in 

1973, pioneering modern winemaking in the South Island of 

New Zealand. Today we continue their dream, as the second 

generation of fully committed sustainable winegrowers. 

WWW.SEIFRIED.CO.NZ 

@SEIFRIEDESTATE

Top 

Cellar Doors 

WHEREVER YOU'RE TRAVELLING IN NEW ZEALAND, THERE'S A WINERY WORTH A VISIT. 

CAMERON'S TAKEN SOME OF THE LEGWORK OUT OF THE RESEARCH SO YOU KNOW WHERE TO STOP 

TE WHARE RA, 56 Anglesea Street, 

Renwick, Marlborough 

Stop by at the oldest small winery in 

Marlborough and you'll feel instantly 

welcomed by owners & winemakers 

Anna and Jason Flowerday, their two (!) 

sets of twin daughters, and a collection 

of happy-go-lucky-dogs and cows. 

I really enjoy visiting this vineyard 

and I love the wines. There’s an instant 

connection between the land, the 

people and the smell and taste in the 

wine. It's truly magic. All you need do 

is inhale the sweet air in the vineyard 

and you'll know what harmony is 

all about. This is a small, certifiedorganic 

vineyard originally planted 

in 1979, and with just 11 hectares of 

vineyard is home to the oldest vines in 

KUMEU RIVER WINES, 550 Highway 

16, Kumeu, Auckland 

Kumeu River, its vineyards, winery and 

tasting room are all adjacent to each 

in Auckland’s North West community 

Marlborough. The Flowerday’s mantra 

is pretty cool, and smart: "We make our 

living from the soil, so the soil must be 

our living". My favourite wines from 

TWR collection are the Toru white 

blend and Syrah. 

Ph + 64 3 572 8581 

www.twrwines.co.nz 

of Kumeu. A 30-minute 

drive from downtown, it is 

owned and operated by the 

Brajkovich family - a 'Dally' 

[Dalmatian] family who has 

been part of the fabric of 

New Zealand wine since 

1944, when their first small 

vineyard was established. 

I love this place; I always 

experience some of the best 

old-fashioned hospitality, 

and some astounding wines 

too. Their Chardonnays. 

The cellar door is open 

for tasting and sales Mon-Fri 9am – 

4.30 pm, Sat 11am -4.30 pm and closed 

on Sundays. 

ph +64 (0)9 412 8415 

www.kumeuriver.co.nz 

PEGASUS BAY: Stockgrove Road, 

Waipara, RD2 Amberley 7482, 

North Canterbury 

Pegasus Bay winery is owned and 

operated by the Donaldson family, 

pioneers of the Canterbury wine 

region. Take a stroll around the 

winery’s breathtaking gardens and 

wetlands even before you enter the 

tasting room and restaurant; the air 

smells sweet and intoxicating. The 

cellar door experience is fantastic, 

with all of the estate grown wines 

available for tasting. The wines are 

delicious and dare I say it - unique. 

My favourite wines are the Bel 

Canto Riesling and Prima Donna 

Pinot Noir. Do stay for lunch as 

well, the restaurant uses fresh, local 

and seasonal produce, an inspiring 

menu that changes regularly. 

Telephone: 03 314 6869 

info@pegasusbay.com; 

restaurant@pegasusbay.com 


TOP WINE DESTINATIONS 

VILLA MARIA 

CELLAR DOOR 

MANGERE, 118 

Montgomerie Rd, 

Mangere, Auckland 2022 

Just minutes from the 

Auckland Airport, the Villa Maria Ihumatao Vineyard 

sits on the edge of the Manukau Harbour within a 

shallow, sheltered volcanic crater. This feature alone 

makes this a unique vineyard site. However, it’s only 

one of the reasons that Villa Maria was named the third 

most-admired wine brand in the world in March 2019. 

As you enter this place you feel a sense of calm and 

relaxation; a wonderful connection to the past and 

present is the Ihumatao. The cellar door is a key feature 

here; visitors can sample Villa Maria’s award-winning 

wines, enjoy a glass of wine in the Vineyard Café 

overlooking the vines or meander around the vineyard 

or lake. This is a popular spot for both international 

visitors and locals, so everyone can expect to be well 

looked after. There are many wines to sample here with 

of my favourites: Ihumatao Organic Verdelho and The 

Attorney Organic Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 

Open 7 days – Mon to Fri 9am - 6pm; 

Weekends 9am - 4pm. Tel: 09 255 0666 

www.villamariawines.com/winery/aucklandcellar-door/ 

THE URBAN WINERY, 

3 Ossian Street, Ahuriri, 

Napier, Hawke’s Bay 

The Urban Winery in 

Ahuriri, Napier, is home 

to Tony Bish Wines and a 

very ‘Kiwi’ cellar door & wine bar experience. Through 

the looking glass wall of this art deco industrial-style 

building, you can’t help but notice their iconic concrete 

eggs. The only French oak egg barrel in the southern 

hemisphere is here as well, along with beautifully laid 

out barriques. 

Tony is a Chardonnay specialist and from the Fat 

& Sassy to the Skeetfield (my favourite), these wines 

capture Hawke’s Bay and Tony’s unique style. You might 

also notice only vinyl records being played, in fact you 

can BYO your favourite LP for a spin. Wine tastings, 

wine and craft beer by the glass or bottle, live music 

events, retail sales and tasty platters. 

Opening hours: Sun - Weds, 12pm - 6pm 

Thurs to Sat: 12pm - late 

Phone: 06 650 3353. Email: 

events@theurbanwinery.co.nz 

www.theurbanwinery.co.nz 

www.tonybishwines.co.nz 

FB:@theurbanwineryahuriri 

VILLA MARIA 

CELLAR DOOR 

HAWKE'S BAY, 2375 

State Highway 50, 

Flaxmere, Roys Hill 4175, 

New Zealand 

The Te Awa Estate Winery, Restaurant and Cellar 

Door is spectacular. Located along State Highway 50 

in Flaxmere (at the foot of Roy’s Hill) the grounds and 

outdoor areas evokes memories of youth - climbing 

trees and rolling in the grass. 

The cellar door & restaurant are both rustic and 

modern. Chef Stephen Tindall creates delicious food 

from an outdoor picnic to an a la carte lunch indoors. 

With only lunch on offer I recommend you book. The 

remaining time is set aside for events. Wines for tasting 

include Te Awa Estates, Esk Valley, Left Field, Kidnapper 

Cliffs and Vidal Estate – so more than a few to taste. 

My must-try wines include their Te Awa Single Estate 

Syrah, Vidal Estate Soler Chardonnay and Esk Valley The 

Terraces Red Blend. 

Open 7 Days. 

www.villamariawines.com/vineyards/Hawke'sbay/ 

Tel: +64 6879 7602 

NEUDORF 

VINEYARDS 138 

Neudorf Road, RD2, 

Upper Moutere, 

Nelson 

Located on the home 

vineyard, Neudorf’s 

Todd Stevens (winemaker) and Rosie 

Finn (Tim and Jude's daughter) 

cellar door over looks their original plantings of Moutere 

Chardonnay, some of the oldest chardonnay vines in the 

South Island. Open since the early 80s, owners Tim & Judy 

and the Neudorf team have created a peaceful environment 

to come and taste their wines. Enjoy the action amongst 

the vines on the other side of the fence, be it the 400 sheep 

on vineyard grass patrol, or the crew working away. 

Judy has crafted a baby deli filled with local cheeses to 

match the wines which you can enjoy in the garden during 

summer months. Their staff are warm and knowledgeable, 

whether you want to sit in the garden with a glass of 

Chardonnay or taste the portfolio at the bar. Neudorf 

is worth the 40 minute drive north of Nelson city. I 

recommend you taste all the wines, but my picks are the 

Moutere Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Albariño. 

Open 7 days from October 2019. 

Visit www.neudorf.co.nz for more information 

+64 3 543 2643 


TOP WINE DESTINATIONS 

ELEPHANT HILL, 

86 Clifton Road, 

Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay 

Founded and owned 

by the Weiss family, 

Elephant Hill is a 

stunning and innovative 

winery estate and restaurant located on the Te Awanga 

coastline in Hawke’s Bay. Every time I arrive at this 

place my jaw drops - Wow! From the architecture 

to the reception, wine tasting and dining, this place 

is amazing. The Pacific Ocean and Cape Kidnappers 

are all within view, the smell of the ocean breeze is 

energising and welcoming. Elephant Hill crafts small 

volumes of world-class wines from three Hawke’s Bay 

sites. Their winemaking ethos is to produce the best 

possible wines that express their vineyard, variety and 

vintage. My favourite wines are the Single Vineyard 

Chardonnay and Syrah, though all Elephant Hill wines 

are rather delicious! 

Cellar Door is open 7 days from 11am. 

A range of tasting experiences are available, 

email cellardoor@elephanthill.co.nz for private 

tasting opportunities. 

Cellar Door (06) 872 6073 

elephanthill.co.nz 

MISHA’S VINEYARD 

TASTING ROOM 

182 State Highway 8B, 

Cromwell 9310 (Freeway 

Orchard complex) 

Located close to the 

town of Cromwell, the Misha’s Vineyard Tasting 

Room is a simple yet elegant space providing a relaxed 

interactive tasting experience. From the large-scale 

photographic murals showcasing the vineyard a few kms 

away, to the first-class hospitality, to the wines and tasty 

food platters, Misha’s is among the best in New Zealand. 

I recommend the guided wine wine tasting, or tailor 

your own experience, from the selection available. All 

wines produced are grown on a stunning 57-hectare 

estate on the edge of Lake Dunstan at Bendigo. The 

range of single-vineyard Pinot Noir and aromatic white 

wines comprises Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Rosé, 

Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer including a late 

harvest dessert wine. Two of my favourite wines are the 

Limelight Riesling and High Note Pinot Noir. 

Hours: 10am – 4pm daily. 

Contact: +64 3 4454456 or email: 

tastingroom@mishasvineyard.com 

www.mishasvineyard.com 

Open 10am – 4pm daily. 

BRICK BAY, 17 Arabella 

Lane, Snells Beach, 

Auckland 0920 

On the east coast near 

Matakana is Brick 

Bay. Cantilevered over 

a shimmering lake, an architectural ‘Glass House’ 

encompasses a tasting room, tasting room and restaurant. 

It is also the gateway to the Brick Bay Sculpture Trail. 

I’ve walked this trail many times – it really is amazing! 

From the transparency of the Glass House, you 

can view the vineyard witnessing the individual care 

that underpins a small artisan vineyard. A sustainably 

accredited 4.5 hectare vineyard produces all the fruit for 

very limited release wines including 

With Pinot Gris, Rose [need accent on this pls], 

Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends, Brick Bay offers 

relaxed all-day dining showcasing farm to table and 

seasonal produce. I have been a fan of these wines since 

the beginning with my favourites the Pinot Gris and 

Pharos red blend. 

Open 10am-5pm daily. 

Phone 09 425 4690 Visit www.brickbay.co.nz for 

information and bookings 

AKARUA WINES 

& KITCHEN BY 

ARTISAN, 265 

Arrowtown - Lake Hayes 

Road, Arrowtown 9371 

Akarua Wines and 

Kitchen by Artisan is located 15 minutes from 

Queenstown on Arrowtown-Lake Hayes Rd, in the 

historic Walnut Cottage. On site is a cellar door, retail 

and an indoor/outdoor dining setting, with a delightful 

garden, sculptures, mature trees; a good old-fashioned 

country feel. I love visiting Akarua for its quaint, 

charming atmosphere, and the way it blends retail, food 

and beverage with hospitality seamlessly. 

The winery itself is located in Bannockburn. All 

Akarua wines are 100% estate grown across six vineyard 

sites spanning two subregions, Bannockburn and Pisa. 

Akarua is now second-generation family owned, 

established by the Skeggs family in 1996. I particularly 

like the sparkling wine range and Siren Pinot Noir. 

Open 7 days 11am - 5pm 

www.akarua.com 

P: +64 (03) 445 0897 

E: info@akarua.com 


INTRODUCING CAVALIER, GREEN GINGER WINE. 

BREWED USING PREMIUM MARLBOROUGH GRAPES 

AND ZESTY NATURAL GINGER. 

Cavalier Green Ginger Wine is forging a new 

path, making wine of a different kind. The 

Cavaliers of today are those of us compelled to 

go against the grain. We challenge conventions 

not because we’ve got beef, but because we 

can. 

#Cavaliergreenginger www.allanscott.com 

WHISKY MAC 

45ml Cavalier Green Wine 

45ml Whisk(e)y 

Pour ingredients into a short glass. 

Fill with ice. Stir to taste.

WINE AND FOOD 

Perfect with 

Pinot 

THIS BEAUTIFUL WINTER DISH FROM 

AKARUA’S EXECUTIVE CHEF JOHN PICKENS 

USES ALPINE LAMB FROM LOCAL HILLSIDES 

SLOW COOKED LAMB 

OYSTER SHOULDER 

Ingredients 

→ 1 lamb oyster shoulder - we use 

Silere Merino - approx 1.1kg 

→ 10 garlic cloves 

→ 150ml canola oil 

→ 2 sprigs of rosemary 

→ 1 onion, chopped 

→ 1 piece of celery, chopped 

→ 1 carrot, chopped 

→ 1 bottle of Akarua Rua 

Pinot Noir 

Method 

First, confit the garlic. In a small 

pot, add garlic cloves and just 

enough oil to cover them. Place 

on the stove top on its lowest 

heat and let it slowly confit, 

without boiling, for about 25 

minutes. They should be soft 

enough to squash with the back 

of a spoon. 

Allow the garlic to cool slightly. 

Rip off the leaves and add them 

to the garlic and oil, using a bar 

blender or hand blender, blitz 

for a minute or two until the 

rosemary is fine and you have 

a nice paste. Rub this over the 

lamb shoulder and ideally leave 

overnight to marinate. 

Pre heat your oven 130˚C. 

Take an oven proof dish with high 

sides that just fits the lamb, add 

the chopped veges and then 

lamb on top and the bottle of 

wine, if necessary top up with 

water until just covered. Place a 

sheet of baking paper over the 

lamb, followed by aluminium foil 

wrapped tightly around the edges. 

Cam’s Wine Match 

This is a dish of soft and subtle sweetness, delicacy and refinement 

as well as tenderness and familiarity. It requires a wine with the 

same attributes, but also a wine with a core of fruit, power of fine 

tannins and youthful acidity to contrast the lamb. The Akarua Pinot 

Noir does this with aplomb. A distinctive signature of vineyard and 

Otago origins with stony schist minerality, dried herb, a whisper of thyme, and with 

great fruit and structure this wine has personality and Pinosity. 

Slow cook in the oven for 4-5 

hours. To test the lamb is done, 

wiggle the bone. It should 

separate from the lamb. 

In our restaurant we serve it with 

caramelised onions and figs, 

Akarua Pinot Noir jus and black 

garlic salt. 


Songbird 

FINDING YOUR PASSION TAKES A LITTLE LUCK, AND LOTS OF 

HARD WORK. CAMERON CAUGHT UP WITH JING SONG, ONE 

OF NEW ZEALAND’S MOST RESPECTED FEMALE WINE PRODUCERS, 

TO FIND OUT MORE. 

Jing Song doesn’t fit the 

image of your average 

wine producer. A former 

accountant with an 

extraordinary talent for 

artistry and entrepreneurship, Jing 

is an engaging blend of modern 

businesswoman and colourful theatre. 

Married and mother to a son, with a 

second baby due later this year, Jing 

is a successful wine entrepreneur. 

Her latest project is an exclusive 

wine club, the Crown Range Cellar 

Lounge, in Parnell, Auckland, which 

opened on May 17, 2019. 

I first encountered Jing Song and 

the Crown Range Cellar brand in 

2016, when some China Girl Pinot 

Noir samples arrived at my office for 

review. I was intrigued; Grant Taylor, 

one of New Zealand’s premier Pinot 

Noir winemakers, had crafted the 

wine specifically for Crown Range 

Cellar; and the China Girl brand 

looked interesting. 

Jing first arrived in New Zealand 

as a teenager from Chong Qing City, 

China, to study at a Christchurch 

private school. Jing took two degrees: 

Accounting and Theatre Studies. Her 

experience of wine and alcohol were 

limited to social events. “All I knew 

was cask wine back then,” smiles 

Jing. “I had no idea that wine would 

become my passion.” 

With her newly-minted skills 

– she was an A-grade scholarship 

recipient - Jing landed a role in 

Dunedin with financial giants 

KPMG. It didn’t take long, however, 

before Jing missed the excitement of 

the theatre and the arts. “I did enjoy 

accountancy but the job became very 

routine. It suppressed my creativity,” 

she explains. 

With Jing’s parents having moved 

from China to Central Otago, she 

regularly drove from Dunedin, where 

she was a student, to Queenstown 

to visit them. “The journey exposed 

me to the amazing landscapes and 

vineyards of the region.” 

On every trip, Jing would drive 

by local winemaking facility VinPro. 

“One day, about ten years ago, I 

wanted to know more about this 

place I’d driven past so often,” 

explains Jing. She introduced 

herself, and began asking questions 

– just as Grant Taylor, one of New 

Zealand’s premier Pinot Noir makers, 

happened to make an appearance. 

“It was pure chance that he walked 

by.” That meeting signalled the 

beginning of a long friendship, and a 

unique partnership. 

“Grant invited me into his 

world of winemaking, which was 

so different from the daily grind of 

accounting. It fascinated me,” says 

Jing, who discovered that Grant lived 

directly opposite her mother. 

She immersed herself in learning 

about wine, Valli, winemaking and 

vineyards, and worked a harvest 

in order to experience the art of 

boutique winemaking. Grant’s love 

for wine, its history in Otago and the 

land’s enormous potential worked its 

magic on Jing, and in 2010, the pair 

formed a wine trading enterprise. 

“When I first met Grant I was 

a typical poverty-stricken student 

in Dunedin, but he saw something 

in me,” says Jing. “He believed in 

me from the beginning; he had 

A woman in a 

wine world 

As a woman in what is historically 

a male world, Jing wants to share 

her knowledge and success 

with other women. “It’s vital that 

women believe in themselves, 

their abilities and their potential,” 

she says. “My advice to women 

is to surround yourself with men 

and women who recognise your 

personal strengths. Do this, 

focus on your goal, and you 

will succeed.” 

confidence and faith in my talent and 

my palate. He invited me to blind 

tastings, and made me explain what 

I could taste, what I could smell. I 

was a neighbourhood girl with no 

knowledge, but lots of hidden talent. 

He taught me a lot about wine, and 

gave me the confidence I needed to 

create a career.” 

Jing’s unique combination of logic, 

common sense and originality was 

exactly what Grant was looking for; 



and the pair went on to form Crown 

Range Cellar Ltd in 2012. The pair 

still blind taste wines today. “My 

business background, combined with 

my natural creativity, is why Grant 

chose to work with me. It’s a very 

successful partnership,” she says. 

Another of Jing’s business mentors, 

renowned jeweller Sir Michael 

Hill, has proved invaluable on her 

journey. As Jing learned more about 

the New Zealand wine industry, she 

realised there was a gap in the market 

for a business producing bespoke 

wine from some of the best wine 

growing regions in New Zealand and 

expanding this globally. Two years 

later, Jing created Crown Range 

Cellar, with the first winemaker’s 

Signature Selection release in 2013 – 

a Central Otago Pinot Noir made by 

Grant Taylor. “Sir Michael has been a 

mentor, a huge support and a friend 

to me,” says Jing. 

In 2017, Sir Michael named Jing 

as one of the two people he admired 

most (the other being Bob Charles), 

due to her being the only woman, 

and only Chinese, to ever win the 

prestigious 2015 IWSC Pinot Noir 

trophy. “Jing is the youngest female 

Pinot Noir trophy winner (under 

30) in New Zealand history,” by TV3 

newshub reporter Jendy Harper in 

2016 . In 2017 she was appointed an 

IWSC ambassador, and the Crown 

Range Cellar China Girl 2015 

vintage was also a double trophy 

winner for best Pinot Noir at the 

2017 London IWC. 

The next step was to open a space 

for Jing to showcase her wine. “I 

thought, wouldn’t it be wonderful to 

bring Central Otago to Auckland! So 

few people get the chance to visit the 

region, this was an opportunity for 

me to bring my vision to the heart 

of Auckland.” 

Tragedy struck at the beginning 

of 2018, however, when the Crown 

Range Cellar Lounge and tasting 

room was gutted by fire, three weeks 

before opening. “This is a very old 

historical building. The electrical 

wiring failed, and exploded,” says 

Jing. “After 18 months of preparation 

for our opening, everything was gone 

overnight. Some very rare Patrick 

eon wine was affected. Insurance 

doesn’t cover creative vision, only 

replacement rebuild materials. We 

had to let staff go. I was faced with 

two choices – walk away and take the 

insurance, or start again.” 

Fortunately, she chose the latter. 

“The fire made me think harder 

about the space,” she says. “It now 

reflects the Otago region even more, 

in part through architecture and 

interior design. Influenced by natural 

landscape elements from the region, 

we changed the colour palette from 

Cameron at Jing's Crown Range Cellar 

opening with winemaker Grant Taylor (left) 

and architect Ron Seeto (right) 

Crown Range 

Cellar wine 

lounge 

This calming, quiet space in 

Parnell is mostly dedicated to 

showcasing Crown Range Cellar's 

seven wine collections, as well as 

some of New Zealand's finest 

wines. There is even a rare vintage 

collection of international French 

wines available. 

The Lounge is also ideal for 

business meetings, private 

functions, interviews, or simply 

to enjoy a glass of Crown Range 

Cellar wine, New Zealand-made 

gin or whisky, or a coffee. It is also 

used as a space for Sommelier 

education and wine tasting. The 

lounge is open to the public, 

with memberships available to 

the public by appointment. With 

room for thirty or more inside, 

and a total of fifty including the 

outdoor area, this truly unique 

venue is a real treat. 

For more information 

ph 09 307 7966 or visit 

www.crownrangecellar.com 

white to black, and even wove some 

of the charred wood from the fire 

into the design. We even developed 

our own decorative lighting, with real 

tussock grass from central Otago.” 

I have no doubt we will be seeing 

and hearing much more about Jing 

and her wines in the years to come. 

Her future vision includes more 

brand building, including The Stolen 

Heart, Drowsy Fish, Fame, Moon 

Rock and China Girl. These and 

other Crown Range Cellar wines will 

also become available at restaurants 

over the coming months. W 


A Swirl 

of Whites 

NEW ZEALANDERS ARE A NATION OF WHITE WINE LOVERS, BUT ARE 

WE MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT WE HAVE ON OFFER? 

If you had to guess, what do you 

think the four most-ordered white 

wine in New Zealand restaurants 

were? If you said Chardonnay, 

Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, 

you’d be right. Other white varieties such 

as Gewürztraminer, Albariño, Arneis or 

Grüner Veltliner, delicious as they are, 

don’t seem to get much of a look-in. 

These wines might be avoided because 

they are hard to pronounce, or wine 

lovers may not be sure of the flavour 

profile or dryness level. It could also 

be that old chestnut - you like sticking 

to the tried and true, habit takes over 

each time you scan through the range at 

your local. 

Chardonnay is hands-down the 

number one white wine sold. Its taste 

profile of stonefruit and citrus, with 

a measure of oak and great palate weight 

makes it familiar, easy to consume and 

an easy match with food. Two great 

examples you should be looking to try 

are Neudorf Rosie’s Block and Tony 

Bish’s ‘Golden Egg’. 

It may come as a surprise that Riesling 

makes the list, yet the combination of 

apple, white flowers, citrus and minerality 

in a dry or off-dry style are excellent as 

an aperitif and perfect for lighter weight, 

fresh local seafood. Two great examples 

you should be looking to try are Fromm 

Spätlese and Pegasus Bay Bel Canto. 

Pinot Gris is loved by many, and really 

just sells itself. The flavours of pears and 

apples, honeysuckle with or without 

a little oak make for very easy drinking. 

If you haven’t yet tried Dry River or 

Greystone – it’s time. 

Sauvignon Blanc needs no 

introduction or taste reminders, but I’d 

strongly advise you segue your next 

purchases towards Greywacke Wild and 

Saint Clair Reserve. 

A blended white wine might strike 

you as a little unusual, but there are 

several great producers in NZ. If you’re 

curious or serious about wine then ‘Toru’ 

by Te Whare Ra (TWR) is delicious. 

TWR use Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris 

and Riesling to craft this wine. W 


WHITE WINES 

This grape variety has 

to be one of the most 

polarising. It is important 

to note that there is no 

one Chardonnay style, with terroir 

and winemaking decisions able to 

effect considerable variation in this 

fantastic grape. Increasingly, the 

style, shape and form of Chardonnay 

is changing. While the popular 

'traditional' creamy, fruity, oaky 

and buttery expressions are still 

available, a multitude of different 

styles are evolving. As a food match, 

Chardonnay loves fleshy or weighty 

dishes such as smoked salmon or 

fettuccine with cream sauces. I’ve had 

an oak free Chardonnay with steak 

tartare before and it was great. 

Evolution and change in 

Chardonnay styles, notably from New 

Zealand, is inevitable. Viticulture 

and winemakers are responding to 

changes in weather, soil, environment 

and market demands. 

Competition for excellent yet 

affordable Chardonnay is becoming 

tougher. In order to reproduce 

traditional expressions under 

changing vineyard and growing 

conditions, as well as keeping the 

price the same or similar, winemakers 

have to deploy different approaches 

in the winery. The cost of making 

fine wine is increasing, and so must 

the price to customers to maintain 

the standards. 

Some wine producers are 

embracing these changes by showing 

more understanding of style within 

style for Chardonnay. Some of 

the practices include trialling 

more natural winemaking to learn 

where the boundary of consumer 

acceptance lies and where a new 

style may emerge. Less preservative, 

no additives, less oak handing, small 

batch wine making, different yeast 

strains, high solids ferment, extended 

lees ageing, concrete egg ferments 

instead of steel, oak or plastic are 

some of the approaches being 

taken. Many of the resulting wines 

are world-class. W 

Chardonnay 

a wine for all 

reasons 


TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY 

Pyramid Valley Field of 

1 

Fire 2016 Chardonnay 

New Zealand 

This is delicious. The initial bouquet of flowers 

and gun-flint to citrus and heirloom treefruit, 

with complexity on the nose and palate, 

together have wonderful harmony. Dry, with a 

layer of oak spice and lees-derived wild spice to 

tension and poise from the acidity and fine silky 

tannins - take your time over this wine. Pause, 

enjoy the weight and subtle power, flavours and 

finish. Not all Chardonnay are for everyone, this 

example will open your eyes and palate. Drink 

now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 96 

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz 

RRP $125.00 

Pyramid Valley Lions 

2 

Tooth Chardonnay 2016 

New Zealand 

Complex and inviting bouquet with aromas of 

grapefruit, peach and apricot woven between 

aromas of vanilla and cashew, a limestone and 

clay mineral quality. Delicious on the palate with 

a saline feel, flavours of vanilla and other wood 

spices, apple and yellow stonefruits. Very fine 

wood tannins, natural acidity and long finish. 

Complex and intriguing, alluring and very tasty. 

drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $125.00 

Sacred Hill Riflemans 

3 

Chardonnay 2016 Hawke’s Bay 

Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet. 

Hazelnut and cashew, gun-flint and peach, 

grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Full bodied, 

textured, leesy and fruity. Flavours of Brazil nut 

and cashew, wood smoke, flint and leesy spices 

are persistent contrasted by a core of fruit. 

Weighty, medium+ acidity with a complex and 

lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026. 

POINTS: 96 

Contact: www.sacredhill.com 

RRP $69.99 

Sacred Hill Wine Thief 

4 

Chardonnay 2017 Hawke’s Bay 

Great bouquet of Chardonnay, complex and 

alluring. Aromas and flavours of baked peach 

and nectarine, baked custard and raw brown 

sugar. An abundance of spicy oak, specific and 

engaging structure with a youthful acidity, oak 

tannins, weight, warmth and core of fruit. Fullbodied 

and powerful wine, lengthy finish and 

complex. Drinkable now though best from 2021 

through 2026+. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $34.99 

Vidal Legacy Chardonnay 

5 

2018 Hawke's Bay 

Seductive, enticing, complex and glamorous 

bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas of roasted 

cashew and yellow peach, baked golden apple 

then grapefruit, a cheesy, whipped cream 

moment and easy-to-spot wood spices. On 

the palate - tense, vibrant, weighty, youthful and 

dry. As complex and glamorous as the bouquet 

suggests, with flavours of white and yellow 

orchard fruits, wood spice and a flinty, leesy, 

toasty harmonious core. Quite youthful with a 

refreshing acid line, fine wood tannin layer, lees 

spice and mineral finish. Delicious now though I 

recommend decanting, even better in 2021. An 

investment wine that will be the talk of many 

fabulous dinner parties through to 2030 and 

probably beyond. 

POINTS: 96 

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz 

RRP $59.99 

Vidal Soler Chardonnay 2018 

6 

Hawke's Bay 

There’s no mistaking the power and youthful 

impact that the bouquet of this wine offers - 

peach and nectarine, vanilla, burnt butter and 

brazil nut, lees spices and blond tobacco. A 

natural complexity and raw energy. Equally 

intense on the palate with flavours of yellow 

stonefruit, grapefruit, apple and layers of wood 

spice and lees textures. An abundance of oak 

and acidity with some fine oak tannins. Very 

lengthy & finishing just dry and complex. Ideal 

drinking from 2021 through 2028. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $34.99 

7 

Auntsfield Single Vineyard 

Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough 

A plush and pure fruit attack with a calm 

creamy bouquet. Aromas of white peach and 

apricot, sweet red apple then wood spice and 

vanilla. Firm youthful and dry on the palate with 

a vibrant fruit core, wet stone mineral moment, 

mild fine wood tannins and plenty of refreshing 

and balancing acidity. Lush, fresh and juicy 

finish with a building complexity. Drink now and 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz 

RRP $37.99 

 

 

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Brennan Gibbston 

8 

Chardonnay 2016 

Central Otago 

A very different and exciting bouquet of 

chardonnay with a lees and wood smoke 

beginning, then lemon peel, apple and lemon 

custard aromas. These ideas follow through to 

the palate with a seamless transition, abundant 

acidity and measured use of oak. Well made 

and lengthy, complex and very individual. 

Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.brennanwines.com 

RRP $35.00 

Church Road Grand 

9 

Reserve Chardonnay 2018 

Hawke's Bay 

There's no mistaking the power and impact of 

this wine with aromas of sweet oak and spices, 

vanilla then roasted peach, sweet lemon and 

a fine layer of stony minerality. Dry, weighty, 

luscious creamy texture, fine wood tannins, 

medium acidity and long finish. On the 2nd 

& 3rd sips the impact builds through to an 

intense and very enjoyable climax of fruit, oak 

and concentration. Drink now if decanted, 

best from 2020 through 2025. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.church-road.com/en-nz 

RRP $39.99 

Pask Gimblett Gravels 

10 

Small Batch Chardonnay 


Lovely bouquet with layers of fruit and 

baking spices, peach and quince, apple 

and sweet grapefruit. A lively nutty spicy 

oak layer adds to the complexity. The 

palate reflects all these ideas with a nutty 

cashew-like layer, apple and yellow peach, 

vanilla and stony mineral complexities. 

Balanced and well made. Drink now and 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.pask.co.nz 

RRP $25.00 

Pegasus Bay Virtuoso 

11 

Chardonnay 2016 North 

Canterbury 

An intense, powerful bouquet of 

Chardonnay with distinctive messages 

of oak and oak spices, Brazil nut, cashew 

and burnt butter. Equally intense and 

contrasting core of fruit with baked peach 

and nectarine then a sweet vanilla spice. 

The special part of this wine is the wild 

florals, citrus peel a leesy complexity which 

builds on the palate with each sip. Long 

complex finish. Decant for service. Best 

from late 2020 through 2026. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com 

RRP $60.00 

Tohu Whenua Awa Single 

12 

Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 

Awatere Valley, Marlborough 

Complex, fragrant, youthful and powerful 

bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas and 

flavours of gun flint and white peach, lemon 

curd and new wood, vanilla and apple. No 

mistaking the acidity, youthful energy, and 

complexity of this example. Dry, weighty, 

woody and layered. A wine to watch. 

Decant for service please, with best drinking 

from 2021 through 2026. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/ 

whenuaseries 

RRP $39.99 

Tony Bish Golden 

13 

Egg Chardonnay 2017 

Hawke's Bay 

Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet. 

Hazelnut and cashew, gunflint and peach, 

grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Fullbodied, 

textured, leesy and fruity. Nut and 

smoke and gunflint characters are persistent 

with a core of fruit and flavours for contrast 

and weight. Medium+ acidity, complex 


POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz 

RRP $39.95 

14 

Tony Bish ‘Skeetfield’ 


Hawke's Bay 

An engaging bouquet with precise aromas 

of citrus flesh and peel, peach and red apple. 

The bouquet has shape and form, texture 

from sulphide-like residue and natural ferment 

scents. The connection to oak and fruit is 

seamless and complex, unfurling in glass over 

several minutes. Youthful, textured, fruity 

and flavourful. Noticeable oak, which links 

seamlessly with the fruit. Great palate weight, 

fine oak tannins, loads of texture, flavours of 

citrus, apple and stonefruit and a long finish. A 

lovely example of Chardonnay. Drink now and 

through 2028. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz 

RRP $53.99 

 



An elegant fusion of flavour and fashion. 

@youngandcowines_nz 

Please Enjoy Responsibly.


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Villa Maria Single Vineyard 

15 

Keltern Chardonnay 2017 

Hawke's Bay 

Floral, flinty, fragrant, complex and enticing 

bouquet. Aromas and flavours of whitefleshed 

fruits, oak and wood spice. White 

peach and red apple, gun metal and flint, 

stones and tannin textures. A delicious wine 

with tension, poise and length. Drink now and 

through 2030. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.villamariawines.com 

RRP $79.99 

Akarua Chardonnay 2018 

16 

Central Otago 

Fantastic red fruited bouquet Youthful, 

floral and sweet citrus scented bouquet. 

White flowers and mineral, white peach 

and apple, some lemon and pear 

suggestions. Palate reflects the nose with 

a youthful, firmly textured and finely tuned 

flavours. As the wine opens up - flavours 

suggested by the nose emerge. Plenty 

of acidity, moderate measure of oak, well 

made and cellar ready. Best drinking from 

late 2020 through 2025. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.akarua.com 

RRP $29.00 

Greystone Chardonnay 2017 

17 


Floral, fruity, some wood accents and 

earthy/mineral layers. Creamy, weighty, 

complex and layered on the palate. 

Flavours do reflect the nose, but this 

wine is more about texture and synergy. 

Medium+(ish) acidity, moderate use of oak 

with fine tannis and wood spices, a core of 

yellow fruits and apple, some wildflowers 

and intriguing harmony. Well made with a 


POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz 

RRP $39.00 

Neudorf Rosie’s Block 

18 

Chardonnay 2017 Nelson 

Enticing and intriguing bouquet of 

Chardonnay with a flinty floral then ripe 

yellow stonefruit beginning. As the wine 

opens up in glass, sweet scents of oak 

emerge with vanilla and white toast then a 

distinctive mineral and honeysuckle layer. 

Wonderful texture on the palate with a 

vibrant core of fruit energised by acidity 

and new oak; flavours of white peach, red 

apple and quince; the vanilla sweet oak 

layer returns with a noticeable spice lick 

from the wood. Lovely lengthy finish, great 

balance and youthful energy. Drink now 

and through 2024. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.neudorf.co.nz 

RRP $33.00 

Pask Gimblett Gravels 

19 


Hawke's Bay 

No mistaking the power and the presence 

of this wine on the nose with aromas of 

spicy toasty wood, ripe stone fruit and 

baked apple. Nutty flavours of French 

Oak and creamy textures laced with spice 

and acidity, a core of yellow fleshed stone 

fruit, bacon-like oak layer and full bodied 

richness. A lovely example - drinking well 


POINTS: 94 


RRP $22.00 

Pegasus Bay Chardonnay 

20 

2017 North Canterbury 

An intense, powerful bouquet of Chardonnay 

with distinctive messages of oak and oak 

spices, Brazil nut, cashew and burnt butter. 

Equally intense and contrasting core of fruit 

with baked peach and nectarine then a sweet 

vanilla. The special part of this wine is the 

wild florals, citrus peel and leesy complexity 

which builds on the palate with each sip. Long 

finish, decant for service. Best from late 2020 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 94 


RRP $43.00 

Seifried Chardonnay 2017 

21 

Nelson 

Aromas of white and yellow peach, 

nectarine, some yellow apple and mild 

baking spices of vanilla then toasty nutty 

oak spice with a mild cashew quality. On 

the palate - lovely! Flavours of apples 

and peaches accentuated with oak and 

baking spice layers. Fine creamy texture 

and lengthy finish with plenty of acidity 

and whispers of wood tannin adding 

structure, texture and length. Drink now 


POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz 

RRP $17.00 



Tohu Whenua Matua Single 

22 

Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 

Upper Moutere, Nelson 

Attractive bouquet of Chardonnay with 

some familiar aromas of warm peach and 

ripe apple, grapefruit peel then vanilla 

custard, cashew nut and toasty wood. 

Plenty of complexity and charm, dry and 

weighty wine on the palate with flavours 

that mirror the nose. Peach and apple, 

wood spices and baked nuts, a burnt 

butter, clove and vanilla push. Some very 

fine wood tannins and medium+ acidity. 

Overall a lovely wine that needs bottledevelopment 

time in your cellar. Best 

drinking from late 2020 through 2026+. 

POINTS: 94 


whenuaseries 

RRP $34.99 

Villa Maria Reserve 

23 


Hawke's Bay 

Quietly complex bouquet with aromas 

and flavours of yellow peach and baked 

red apple, wood spices and vanilla custard. 

Dry, creamy spicy and delicious. Flavours 

reflect the bouquet, with layers of delicate 

wood tannins, medium+ acidity and a 

core of fruit and texture. Lovely power 

and balance, great length. Drink now and 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 94 


RRP $39.99 

Villa Maria Reserve 

24 


Marlborough 

Smoky, toasty, nutty, rich and complex. 

Equally intense on the palate with flavours 

of roasted stonefruits and grapefruit. A 

sweet nutty richness follows with cashew 

and brazil, spices and acidity. Dry lengthy 

finish with an intensity, complexity and 

richness that lasts long after the wine 

is swallowed. Delicious! Drink now and 

through 2030. 

POINTS: 94 


RRP $34.99 

creamy texture contrasted by acidity. 

Lengthy, and well made. Drink now and 

through 2025. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.eskvalley.co.nz 

RRP $19.99 

Matahiwi Holly 

26 


Hawke’s Bay 

Smoke, toast, sweet barrel and brown 

spices. A core of dark cherry and dried 

raspberry fruit. Fine tannins and medium+ 

(ish) acidity. A core of fine oak flavours 

offset by ripe red berry fruit flavours and 

a little red apple skin. Lovely calmness 

adding to the complexity, as well as 

potential for cellar ageing. Drinkable now 

- best from 2020 through 2030. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz 

RRP $32.99 

Pyramid Valley Chardonnay 

27 

2017 Marlborough 

Varietal, fruity, familiar and fresh fruited 

bouquet. Aromas of wood before fruit, 

apple before spice, peach before flowers. 

Dry, weighty and full of fruit, wood and wild 

ferment flavours - flowers and flint, leesy 

spice and very fine tannins. Balanced, fresh, 

building complexity, loads of texture and 

well made. Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 93 


RRP $40.00 

Seifried Winemakers 

28 

Collection Barrique 

Fermented Chardonnay 2016 

Nelson 

Aromas and flavours of baked orchard 

fruits with cashew and baking spices 

of toasty oak, vanilla custard, peach, 

nectarine, red apple then vanilla and 

clove. Full-bodied, rich and creamy, quite 

delicious with a creamy texture an slightly 

sweet vanillin long finish. Drink now and 

through 2024. 

POINTS: 93 


RRP $26.00 

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Esk Valley Chardonnay 2017 

25 

Hawke's Bay 

Immediately intriguing, complex, fruity 

and spicy. Layers of cashew and spice, 

white peach and citrus Dry with a weighty, 

 




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Giesen The Brothers 

29 


Marlborough 

Lovely bouquet and palate of 

Chardonnay with aromas and flavours 

of stone fruits, apple and grapefruit 

peel. A layer of oak with some spice and 

wood flavours, a nutty buttery note and 

soft creamy texture overall. Lots to like 

and enjoy with this wine, balanced with 

decent weight, medium acidity and a 

completeness. Ready to enjoy today and 

through 2022. 

POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz 

RRP $26.99 

Gibbston Valley China 

30 

Terrace Chardonnay 2017 

Central Otago 

A fine bouquet that encapsulates 

the essence of the vineyard and soil, 

cool climate Otago and excellent 

winemaking. Aromas and flavours of 

white peach and crunchy red apple, the 

layer of oak flavour, acidity and weight 

of fruit offer an elegant structure and 

seamless flavour integration reflective of 

the nose. Cool rocky soil and minerality 

flavours integrate well with this finelytuned 

example. Drinking best from 2020 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.gibbstonvalley.com 

RRP $42.00 

Lake Chalice The 

31 

Falcon Chardonnay 2017 

Marlborough 

Enticing aromas of peach and vanilla, 

nectarine and grapefruit peel. A butter 

toast layer adds depth and a layer 

of complexity. Fresh, fruity, crunchy, 

textured wine with weight and youthful 

bite. Lengthy finish, balanced and ready. 


POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.lakechalice.com 

RRP $18.99 

Palliser Estate Chardonnay 

32 

2017 Wairarapa 

Classic bouquet of Chardonnay with 

creamy rounded texture, aromas of 

vanilla and peach, yellow apple and 

nutty oak layer. Dry on the palate with 

a full-bodied texture, flavours of stone 

and tree fruits, some grapefruit peel 

suggestion adding contrast and length. 

No mistaking this wine’s oak - the nutty 

cashew flavours and a little wood smoke 

- balanced and layered into the wine well. 

Lengthy finish with a light dusty mineral 

finish. Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz 

RRP $43.00 

Villa Maria Platinum 

33 

Selection Chardonnay 


Rather nice bouquet of Chardonnay 

with scents of vanilla and wood spice, 

ripe apple and yellow stone fruits, 

baked cashew and baking spice. Dry, 

nutty, spicy and fruity on the palate with 

flavours that reflect the nose, medium+ 

body with silky almost creamy texture. 

Plenty of acidity and freshness. A 

charming and immediately enjoyable 

example. Drink now and through 2022. 

POINTS: 90 


RRP $24.99 

Ara Single Estate 

34 


Marlborough 

Many classic aromas and flavours to this 

Chardonnay - white and yellow peach, 

yellow and red apple, vanilla and soft 

cashew nut-oak. A light custard note too. 

Creamy texture with medium acidity, 

weighty, fruity and dry. A balanced and 

well-made wine, with decent length and 

finish. Best from today and through 2021. 

POINTS: 90 

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz 

RRP $19.99 

Lake Chalice The 

35 

Raptor Chardonnay 2017 

Marlborough 

Aromas of peaches and grapefruit, a 

nutty core of toasty wood and spice, 

apples and dry stone minerality. Weighty, 

creamy, fresh, crunchy and dry on the 

palate. Flavours reflect the nose with 

sound structure and finish. Drink now 


POINTS: 90 


RRP $22.99 



Sacred Hill Reserve 

36 


Hawke’s Bay 

Refreshing and familiar bouquet of 

Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of 

apple and peach, vanilla and cream, even 

a little custard and toasty wood layer. Dry 

on the palate with decent weight and 

acidity. Nice measure of oak and wood 

spices to match, balanced and well made. 


POINTS: 90 


RRP $21.99 

Crafters Union 

37 


Hawke's Bay 

Very recognisable and appealing 

bouquet of Chardonnay with ripe 

apple, peaches and cream, vanilla and 

mild toasty wood moments. Dry on 

the palate with moderate weight and 

intensity, nice acid line and flavours that 

mirror the nose. Well made in a ‘drink 

now’ style. Best drinking from today and 

through 2021. 

POINTS: 88 

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com 

RRP $21.99 

Selaks The Taste 

38 

Collection Buttery 

Chardonnay 2018 Hawke's Bay 

Smoky, toasty, nutty and buttery 

bouquet of Chardonnay. Flavours of 

the same on the palate with a creamy 

texture, moderate acidity, vanilla, yellow 

stonefruits and wood spices. Balanced 

and well made in a drink now expression. 

Best from today and through 2020. 

POINTS: 88 

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz 

RRP $21.99 

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Whãnau, Whenua... 

Tohu 

Somewhere in the upper 

realms of the Awatere Valley 

in Marlborough, you’ll find 

Whenua Awa, a vineyard 

named in tribute to the Awatere 

River that surrounds parts of the 

vineyard. Some 198km away, in 

Upper Moutere, Nelson, is the 

vineyard Whenua Matua, a name that 

translates to ‘significant land’. 

Both these vineyards are a part 

of Tohu Wines, one of the brands 

produced under Kono, a Mãoriowned 

food and drinks company 

based in Te Tauihu, the top of the 

South Island. 

As business with a 500-year 

plan, Kono bases its culture on 

kaitiakitanga: the importance of 

balance, and of guardianship of 

the land for future generations. 

Acknowledged as He mãtãmua 

taketake since 1998, Tohu is the 

first Mãori owned and operated 

wine label. Originally run with just 

contract growers, the first vintage of 

3,200 cases were sold domestically. 

Now Tohu is a bricks and mortar 

winery which can process 3,000 

tonnes of fruit, with 48 hectares of 

vineyard for Sauvignon Blanc, 39 

hectares for Pinot Noir, 29 hectares 

of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, 

Albariño and Pinot Gris combined. 

After national and international 

successes, which include the 2016 

Tohu Single Vineyard Marlborough 

Sauvignon Blanc being selected at an 

invitation-only dinner for former US 

President Barack Obama during his 

visit to New Zealand in 2018, and 

being named in Air New Zealand’s 

Fine Wines of New Zealand list 

in 2017, winemaker Bruce Taylor 

and his team have just launched 

Tohu Whenua Series Wines, a new 

set of unique wines created to 

represent their connection to their 

beloved land. 

“These wines are a gift from 

the land,” explains Taylor, chief 

winemaker at Tohu since 2008. “In 

2015 I put aside a Pinot Noir to 

create the Whenua series. Now, under 

the Whenua wines, we produce about 

eight different wine varietals. The 

Whenua series is about concentrating 

on the strengths of the two very 

different vineyards – the Whenua 

Matua vineyard, set in the sundrenched 

slopes of the Moutere Hills 

in Nelson; and Whenua Awa, high 

on the remote terraces of the Upper 

Awatere Valley. 

With these two very different 

vineyards, Taylor and his team have 

worked hard to capture a bit of the 

identity of this land in their Tohu 

Whenua series. “As a winemaker I 

believe looking after your land and 

grapes in a way that will still be 

Winemaker Bruce Taylor has 

been with Tohu for 11 years 



What does 

the Tohu koru 

represent? 

In Māori, a tohu can be a sign, 

symbol, distinguishing feature 

of signature. The Tohu Wines 

symbol was crafted to include 

carved patterning known as 

rauponga, which is categorised 

by a row of notched chevrons. 

The koru symbolises growth, life 

and the natural world. “For us, the 

koru represents the growth of our 

company and the journey of our 

people from the past to today,” 

says winemaker Bruce Taylor. “It 

speaks of our long-term goals 

for future generations and has 

become our ‘tohu’ – our signature. 

sustainable in future, and organic 

production is key to that. I have 

a couple of kids myself now, and 

it’s hard not to feel uncomfortable 

about conventional practices that are 

sometimes used in wine production. 

“I’ve been playing with organics, 

and traditional Mãori practices, 

which can be very difficult to do 

and expensive to manage. But we are 

exploring ways of using traditional 

Mãori practices and values in our 

modern winery in a financially 

stable way.” 

Taylor believes that from a 

production perspective, the Tohu 

Whenua single vineyard Sauvignon 

Blanc will be the biggest seller. “As 

a winemaker I drink a lot of Pinot 

Noir and Chardonnay,” he says. “That 

being said, I’m pretty stoked with 

all the varieties in the new range. 

They really are a gift from the land, 

our turangewaewae; the place where 

we stand.” W 

The Kono 

project 

The Kono is a woven basket 

traditionally used as a food basket 

for sharing and giving. The 

company uses it as a promise to 

their manuhiri, of the finest quality 

that nature can provide, now 

and forever. 


WHITE WINES 

Wild about 

Blanc 

THE FRUITS OF A SAUVIGNON BLANC MAKE IT ONE OF NEW 

ZEALAND'S FAVOURITE VARIETIES - AND IT'S GROWING MORE 

POPULAR EVERY YEAR 

There’s no mistaking the 

immediacy with which 

New Zealand Sauvignon 

Blanc engages the senses. 

With pungent aromas of sweet herb, 

tropical fruit, white peach, citrus, apple, 

gooseberry and hay, the variety has a lot 

to offer. Fresh, even crunchy textures and 

with laser-beam acidity when young, this 

variety also offers a lot of palate action 

as well. 

All wine regions in NZ grow 

Sauvignon Blanc, with each producing 

a version similar to the description above. 

With around 500 growers, 140 producers 

and +24,000 hectares of vines in the 

ground, Marlborough remains our largest 

for Sauvignon Blanc outputs. 

The classic expression of Sauvignon 

Blanc hasn’t changed very much in the 

last couple of decades. However, even 

Sauvignon Blanc is subject to vintage 

variation and winemaker skillset. The 

2013 through 2017 vintages have 

generally been very good to excellent. 

Be sure to drink these wines soon to 

make way for the 2019, the quality 

looks excellent. 

There are a growing number of 

producers exploring the boundaries 

of what this variety can offer if treated 

differently in the vineyard and winery. 

For example, a biodynamic or organically 

farmed Sauvignon Blanc vineyard can 

enhance texture and mineral suggestions. 

Teasing out a saline flavour - or additional 

texture with lees stirring, and the use of 

neutral oak or barrel-fermented or aged 

styles - demonstrates the new territory 

Sauvignon Blanc is exploring. There are. 

some producers releasing library stock 

with 4-5 years bottle age, while others 

add a little Sauvignon Gris or even Pinot 

Gris as a co-ferment. W 


TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC 

Auntsfield South Oaks 

1 

Sauvignon Blanc 2016 

Marlborough 

Complex and developing bouquet of 

Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours 

of baking spices and lemon pepper, baked 

apple and wood smoke, ripe peach and 

vanilla. A weighty and complex wine with a 

youthful acid line, nutty oak flavour, some 

pristine fine tannins and long varietal finish. 

Complex and very enjoyable. Drink now 

and through 2025+. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $38.00 

Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 

2 


Immediately complex and seductive bouquet 

of Sauvignon Blanc, weighty and rich in 

aromas of white fleshed tree fruits, some 

tropical notes, citrus and lees-spices. Textured 

on the palate with abundant acidity, spice and 

flavours that reflect the nose. Lengthy finish. 


POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com 

RRP $25.00 

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 

3 


Very attractive bouquet of organic, vegan 

Sauvignon Blanc, with a core of fruit then a 

lees-like spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla. 

Silky texture on the palate with flavours of 

citrus and gooseberry, some tropical fruits 

and persimmon. A tangerine peel note and 

wild flowers. Plenty of acidity and lengthy 

finish. What a lovely wine! drink now and 

through 2022. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com 

RRP $21.99 

Blind River Awatere Valley 

4 


Marlborough 

A lovely bouquet with an enticing, 

smooth and persistent bouquet of sweet 

citrus, lemon thyme green apple and 

pink grapefruit aromas. Equally fresh and 

enticing on the palate with plenty of citrus 

peel and fresh herb flavours, green apple 

and some tropical fruit suggestions. Very 

youthful and fresh with plenty of acidity 

and crunchy textures. Well made, and 

drinking well now, though best from late 

2019 through 2025. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz 

RRP $25.00 

Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve 

5 


Marlborough 

Varietal, complex, enticing and layered 

bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Classic yet 

quiet pungency of fresh herbs, tropical fruits, 

green bell-pepper and sweet grapefruit. As 

the wine opens up in glass, a gentle wood 

spice layer emerges adding complexity and 

intrigue. Fresh, dry, fruity and tasty, plenty of 

texture and gentle moments of wood spices, 

a gooseberry and pineapple suggestion, 

lengthy and very satisfying finish. Drink now 


POINTS: 94 


RRP $25.00 


6 

Vineyard Sauvignon 

Blanc 2018 Awatere Valley, 

Marlborough 

Great bouquet and palate. Aromas of 

tropical fruits and sweet hay, pink grapefruit 

and crisp fridge-cold Pacific Rose apple. A 

savoury minerality cushioned by flavours of 

pineapple and passionfruit are contrasted 

by high acidity and a crunchy texture. Long 

finish, dry and very satisfying. Drink now 

and through 2025. A wine that will most 

certainly age if cellared properly. 

POINTS: 94 


whenuaseries 

RRP $29.99 


7 


Marlborough 

Seductive and alluring bouquet of Sauvignon 

Blanc with softer fruit spice layers woven 

between suggestions of lemon and sweet 

grapefruit, apple, mineral and fresh lychee. 

Crisp, dry, packed with flavour and texture. 

Notable acidity well balanced against 

the ripeness of fruit and gentle fruit spice 

moments. Lengthy and quite complex finish. 

Drink now through 2022. 

POINTS: 93 


RRP $25.00 

 

 


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Te Pa The Reserve 

8 

Collection Sauvignon 

Blanc 2018 Marlborough 

A sophisticated and charming bouquet of 

Sauvignon Blanc with a light leesy spice 

quality, leading to fruit aromas of yellow 

stonefruits and citrus, some gentle tropical 

fruit notes and sweet hay. Crisp, refreshing, 

fruity and just dry on the palate, decent fruit 

weight and flavours that reflect the nose with 

a light lees ginger spice layer. Well made - 

drink now and through 2022. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.tepawines.com 

RRP $24.99 

Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc 

9 

Reserve 2018 Marlborough 

A very classy wine indeed with aromas and 

f lavours of pink grapefruit and red apple, 

tropical fruits of mango and white pineapple 

with a lemon twist. Fresh basil and thyme 

scents with a wet stone mineral suggestion. 

Dry on the palate with abundant acidity, a 

core of fruit with a vibrant texture. Drink now 


93 POINTS 

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz 

RRP $22.00 

Yealands Single Vineyard 

10 

Awatere Valley 2018 

Marlborough 

Complex and engaging bouquet of 

Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of organic 

minerals, a seaside saline note and fruits of 

the orchard especially ripe citrus and apple 

with a noteworthy layer of herbaceousness. 

Also engaging on the palate with a great 

texture flavour and length. Drink now and 

through 2022. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz 

RRP $25.00 

Akarua Pisa Sauvignon 

11 

Blanc 2018 Central Otago 

Distinctive bouquet with aromas of sweet 

herb and citrus, apple and core of minerality 

in this organic wine. A whisper of dried 

herb. Fruity on the palate with a core of red 

apple, white peach and citrus flavours. The 

minerality and sweet herb returns. Plenty of 

acidity, a decent length and finish. Drink now 


POINTS: 92 


RRP $29.00 

Aotea by the Seifried 

12 

Family Sauvignon Blanc 

2019 Nelson 

Distinctive bouquet and palate of 

Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours of grapefruit 

and tropical fruits, a definitive mineral, 

fresh herb and sweet hay flavour. Loads 

of energy too, with plenty of acidity, crisp 

textures and minerality. Dry finish with 

a flinty, grassy and mineral residue. Well 

made, balanced and refreshing. Drink now 


POINTS: 92 


RRP $29.00 

Lake Chalice The Raptor 

13 


Varietal, lush, fresh, juicy and inviting 

bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Flowers and 

red apple, sweet white peach and fresh 

herbs, green mango and passionfruit. A wet 

stone and citrus layers adds some classic 

moments. Fresh, lush, juicy and fruity on the 

palate. A steely freshness and satin texture 

contrasted by high acidity makes for a very 

enjoyable and classic example. Drink now and 

through 2025. 

POINTS: 92 


RRP $22.99 

Vidal Estate Sauvignon 

14 


Pungent, fruity, tropical and citrus laden 

with lemon, apple, grapefruit and pineapple 

fruit bouquet. Vibrant, crisp, tropical and dry 

on the apple; high acidity with a refreshing 

salivating texture, steely, fruity and luscious. 


POINTS: 92 


RRP $15.99 




15 

Selection Sauvignon Blanc 


Softer more complex bouquet of Sauvignon 

Blanc with aromas of ripe yellow fruits, 

sweet red apple, a white flower moment 

and gentle aged on lees derived apple 

pie suggestion. Tasty, textured, crisp and 

just dry on the palate. Flavours of lemon 

and grapefruit emerge alongside some 

red apple, peach and dried pineapple. 

Plenty of acidity, some spice and generous 

weight equal a very desirable flavour and 

texture profile. Totally drinkable today and 

through 2022. 

POINTS: 92 


RRP $24.99 

Harwood Hall Sauvignon 

16 


No mistaking the bouquet of Sauvignon 

Blanc here - aromas of dry stone and 

mineral salts, green apple, red apple and 

grapefruit, some fresh herb and bellpepper 

notes. Balanced, even, refreshingly 

crisp, fruity and a dry finish. The complete 

package in this wine, balanced and well 

made. Drink now and through 2021. 

POINTS: 91 

Contact: www.harwoodhall.co.nz 

RRP $19.99 

Lawson's Dry Hills 

17 


Marlborough 

A complete and classic bouquet of 

Sauvignon Blanc, with scents of sweet 

herbs and tropical fruits, lemon and 

grapefruit flesh, crunchy apple and wet 

stone minerality suggestions. Dry, fruity and 

crunchy on the palate with flavours of sweet 

herb and peach, fresh apple, herbaceous, 

crisp and dry. Balanced and well made, 

ready to enjoy today and through 2024. 

POINTS: 91 


RRP $20.00 

Loveblock Sauvignon Gris 

18 


The bouquet of this organic and vegan 

wine shows both a complex wine as 

well as specific bottle-development 

aromas. Heirloom lemon and pear, tea 

and other floral spices, some preserved 

apple and stony soil complexities. Dry 

on the palate with flavours that mirror 

the nose, medium+ acidity, medium 

weight, balanced and quite lengthy. Drink 

now and through 2022. Nice second 

course wine. 

POINTS: 90 


RRP $21.99 

Ara Single Estate 

19 


Marlborough 

Aromas of lemongrass, sweet hay, 

grapefruit, mango and pineapple. Crisp, dry, 

fruity and ready with flavours of apples and 

citrus fruits, tropical notes of pasionfruit and 

pineapple. Herbaceous grassy notes begin 

to emerge on the finish. Balanced and well 

made, drink now and through 2021. 

POINTS: 89 


RRP $19.99 

Selaks The Taste Collection 

20 

Zesty Sauvignon Blanc 


Varietal, fruity, vibrant and classic bouquet 

of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Peaches 

and gooseberry, sweet hay and grapefruit. 

Some passionfruit and mango moments. 

Crisp, refreshing and just dry. Flavours 

mirror the nose with a light floral and 

white spice lift. Well made. Drink now and 

through 2021. 

POINTS: 88 


RRP $21.99 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 


Alastair Maling 

MASTER OF WINE 

Steve Smith 


Simon Nash 


David Allen 


Sam Harrop 


Michael Brajkovich 


Emma Jenkins 


Cameron Douglas 

MASTER SOMMELIER

WHITE WINES 

Food 

Friends 

YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH A GOOD KIWI 

PINOT GRIS ALONGSIDE YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL 

At the heart of 

quality, Pinot Gris is 

excellent fruit and 

great winemaking. All 

wine regions in New Zealand 

produce Gris, with a wide range 

of flavours from white fleshed 

fruits especially pears, apples 

and quince to white-fleshed 

stonefruits such as nectarine and 

nashi. Pinot Gris responds well to 

some oak or wood contact too, 

with the better examples using 

the medium for texture over 

wood flavour (both can be great). 

Acidity is usually medium or 

slightly above; with the trend 

towards dry to just dry styles 

with a core of fruit, a satin or 

silky texture can be experienced. 

Some firmer styles of Gris are 

available as well, often achieved 

using a little skin contact to 

add texture. 

Gris seems to favour a 

natural fermentation technique 

which can often add vibrato 

to the palate. With some extra 

time on lees a honeysuckle, 

smoky ginger-like character can 

be harnessed. 

What makes Pinot Gris so 

popular is, in part, its predictable 

and approachable characteristics. 

Gris is very food friendly as it 

marries well with menu items 

which have soft textures and 

mildly intense flavours. A creamy 

fish pasta with a little olive, fresh 

parmesan and grind of black 

pepper is an ideal match. When 

Gris has noticeable oak with a 

little smoke and baking spice 

flavours, foods such as smoked 

chicken or fish tempura are an 

excellent combination. W 


TASTING NOTES PINOT GRIS 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Domain Road Defiance 

1 

Pinot Gris 2018 Central 

Otago 

Very attractive bouquet of Gris - floral, 

fruity and layered. Flavours of white 

fleshed fruits, citrus zest and cold stone 

minerality. Gentle salty note, nice weight 

and texture in a an off-dry expression. 

Balanced, lengthy finish. A wine for 

many Gris fans to enjoy. Drink now and 

through 2021. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz 

RRP $26.00 


2 

Selection Pinot Gris 2018 

Marlborough 

Creamy, soft and gentle bouquet of Gris 

with aromas of fresh and poached pear, 

some apple and white peach. A touch of 

spice adds depth and complexity. There’s 

no mistaking the full, rich and spicy layers 

on the palate. Lush and just dry, warm and 

generous - dare I say it - quite Alsace-like in 

flavour, richness and texture. Lovely lengthy 

finish, persistent and flavoursome. Drink 


POINTS: 92 


RRP $24.99 

Toi Toi Brookdale 

3 

Reserve Pinot Gris 2018 

Marlborough 

A lovely bouquet with intensity, freshness 

and varietal concentration showing aromas 

and flavours of honeysuckle, peach and 

apple then a leesy lightly spiced layer. 

Medium weight with a firm texture and 

contrasting core of fruit, dry finish. Drink 


POINTS: 90 


RRP $22.99 

Framingham Nobody’s 

4 

Hero Pinot Gris 2018 

Marlborough 

A great example of Gris to get stuck into 

- aromas and flavours of fat juicy pear, 

sweet golden apple and a layer of white 

spice and hint stone minerality. Balanced 

and well made with a creamy-ish texture 

and drifting satisfying finish. Drink now 


POINTS: 89 

Contact: www.framingham.co.nz 

RRP $19.99 

Nautilus 2017 Pinot Gris 

5 

Marlborough 

Quite a lush, ripe and fruity bouquet with 

whispers of a savoury undertone and 

a touch of barrel spice and complexity. 

Flavours of white peach, apple and Asian 

pear, crisp and dry on the finish though a 

touch of residual sweetness adds in a little 

satin rounded texture. Balanced throughout 

the palate - ready to enjoy and through 

2020. 

POINTS: 89 


RRP $29.90 

Seifried Pinot Gris 2018 

6 

Nelson 

Fragrant varietal and spice-led bouquet. 

On the palate flavours of spicy pear and 

red apple, a gingery lees flavour adds 

depth and complexity. Fresh, vibrant 

and with a definitive varietal intensity 

reflecting fruit flavours of pear and apple; 

medium+ acidity, a light leesy moment 

and lengthy finish. Balanced and well 

made. Drink now and through 2021. 

POINTS:89 


RRP $17.00 

Ara Single Estate Pinot 

7 

Gris 2018 Marlborough 

In an off-dry expression this wine will appeal 

to many Gris fans. Aromas and flavours 

of white fleshed orchard fruits with a light 

citrus note - this is accentuated through the 

texture and on the back palate. Some leesy 

moemnts with a whisper of ginger spice and 

white pepper. Overall a lovely wine ready to 

enjoy today and through 2021. 

POINTS: 88 


RRP $19.99 


WINE AND FOOD 

Winner, 

winner 

JOSH EMETT’S TAKE ON COQ AU VIN IS EVEN MORE 

DELICIOUS WHEN MADE WITH A GREAT WINE 

COMPLEXITY: EASY | PREP TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS MARINATING OVERNIGHT 

COOK TIME: 1 HOUR | SERVES: 4 

CHICKEN IN WINE 

COQ AU VIN 

Ingredients 

→ 8 chicken legs, skin on 

→ 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) red wine, 

or just enough to cover the thighs 

→ 2/3 cup plus 2 tsp (150 ml) port 

→ rapeseed/canola oil for cooking 

→ 9 oz (250 g) smoked bacon, diced 

→ 10 baby onions, peeled and quartered 

→ 9 oz (250 g) button mushrooms, halved 

→ 5 whole cloves garlic 

→ 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) beef 

stock (p. 484) 

→ bunch of thyme handful of parsley, 

to garnish 

Method 

Split the chicken into thighs and 

drumsticks, place in a plastic container 

and just cover with the red wine and port. 

Cover and refrigerate overnight, but mix 

a few times in the first few hours to ensure 

that the chicken is properly coated. 

Next day, pre-heat the oven to 320°F 

(160°C). 

Drain the chicken in a colander placed 

over a bowl, reserving the liquid for later. 

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. 

Heat some oil in a large ovenproof frying 

pan over a medium heat,add the chicken, 

in batches if necessary, and fry until golden 

brown on all sides. Remove and set aside. 

Add the bacon and onions to the same 

pan and fry for about 10 minutes, until 

golden, then add the mushrooms and 

garlic and continue to fry until golden and 

the moisture has gone, about 5 minutes. 

Pour in the reserved wine and port, bring 

to a light boil and reduce by half. Add the 

chicken back in at this stage, then add 

enough beef stock to cover. Bring back to 

the boil, then skim the surface. Add the 

thyme, and cover with a cartouche then a 

lid. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes. 

Serve straight away, garnished with parsley, 

or leave to cool and gently reheat when 

ready to serve. 

Cam’s 

Wine 

Match 

If you’re not 

prepared 

to drink 

and enjoy a large glass, don’t 

put that wine in your food. 

Using cheap wine in cooking 

undervalues the dish and effort 

taken to produce something 

delicious. Always use a wine 

you’d happily drink. 

With natural sweetness of 

chicken thigh browned and 

baked, a light smoky 

note from the bacon 

and sweet earthy layers 

from the onion, garlic 

and mushroom, the 

Kumeu River Hunting 

Hill Pinot Noir 2017 

is a great match for 

Josh’s dish. It has 

an earthy mineral 

core with complex 

oak flavours and 

textures that 

complement 

the dish, ripe 

and slightly tart 

fruit flavours to 

contrast. The 

chicken and 

parsley challenge 

the wine’s tannins, 

making this a delicious and 

natural combination. 

Josh Emett’s Chicken in Wine from The Recipe 

by Josh Emett, image copyright © Kieran E. 

Scott, design copyright © Blackwell and Ruth 

Ltd, 2019. 


Getting 

into the CRU 

A MEETING OF MINDS WAS PRELUDE TO A GROUNDBREAKING 

WINE PARTNERSHIP 

In the wine world, the name 

Steve Smith needs little 

introduction. A Master of 

Wine and viticulture specialist, 

Steve was at the forefront of the 

Craggy Range brand launch, and has 

been part of their many successes 

ever since. Fewer, however, will 

know Brian Sheth, an American 

entrepreneur and founder of the 

market-leading investment firm Vista 

Equity Partners. 

Steve and Brian first met in 2012 

at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers. 

At an impromptu wine tasting, 

the pair discussed the potential for 

specific exports of fine New Zealand 

wine to the US. They became firm 

friends, bonding over passionate 

conversations about wine, French 

styles, the environment and the 

future, sport and music. With so 

much in common, and the fine wine 

space opening up, the pair realised 

there was an opportunity to be had. 

In wine circles, many a spirited 

discussion can be overheard about 

fine wines, that inevitably lead to 

comparisons in quality and style 

of the great wines of the world. 

Bordeaux (Cabernets & Merlot) 

and Burgundy (Pinot Noir & 

Chardonnay) are two such examples, 

where comparisons with Oregon, 

Tasmania or New Zealand are 

typical. Steve and Brian recognised 

that wines like Grand Cru and 

Premier Cru – words inextricably 

linked to famous French wines - 

were simply becoming too expensive 

in New Zealand; ‘new generation’ 

wine drinkers were ready to embrace 

a series of new world classics. 

“To deliver wines of exceptional 

quality requires exceptional 

vineyards; finding a cool climate with 

the right soils to deliver outstanding 

wines with varieties as popular as 

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and 

the Cabernets was no easy task,” says 

Steve. “It was paramount we found 

the right sites to establish a sense of 

place in any wines we produced.” 

Steve and Brian share the same 

environmental awareness and are 

aware of the potential impacts 

that climate change can have on 

viticulture. “Finding sites that are 

sheltered from the impacts of nature 

are critical to fine wine growing and 

production,” explains Steve. 

Two years after he ended his 

commitments with Craggy Range in 

2015, Steve and his family flew to the 

US to spend more time with Brian’s 

family. Brian’s experience in the 

financial sector, coupled with Steve’s 

expertise in viticulture, winemaking 

and vision was a perfect match, and 

in 2016, two companies were formed 

– Aotearoa New Zealand Fine Wine 

Estates LP (AONZ), and the Smith & 

Sheth Wine Company. 

The partnership was done; now all 

they needed was to find the perfect 

location. In 2017 AONZ purchased 

Pyramid Valley in North Canterbury; 

and Lowburn Ferry in Central 

Otago, and a small parcel of land in 

the Gimblett Gravels appellation of 

Hawke’s Bay. “The timing was just 

right; the properties matched our 

vision perfectly,” says Steve. “Our aim 

from the beginning was to create 

excellent wine, with a sustainable, 

long-term goal.” 

Who is the 

team behind 

AONZ? 

The Smith & Sheth CRU 

winemaking team includes Steve 

Smith with help from Warren 

Gibson and Caleb Dennis who 

looks after the Gimblett Gravels 

land. The Pyramid Valley wines are 

made by Huw Kinch. Overseeing 

the Manata Estate in Cromwell, 

home to the Lowburn Ferry Home 

Block Wine and the new Pyramid 

Valley Central Otago Pinot Noirs 

is Nick Paulin. Nick was shortlisted 

in this year’s international ‘Future 

50’ awards for young professionals 

under 40 working in the food 

and wine industry around the 

globe. “We are so lucky to have 

Nick,” says Steve. “He is deeply 

passionate about viticulture and the 

whole wine environment, especially 

the organic and biodynamic 

principles and practice.” All the 

AONZ businesses are managed 

by Michael Henley. 



Cam 

says... 

In my opinion, (see wine notes 

on page 62 & 64), Smith & Sheth 

CRU wines from Hawke’s Bay are 

serious, world-class fine wines, 

comparable to any of their fine 

wine counterparts in the northern 

hemisphere. The Cantera 2016 

Omahu is a particular favourite. 

Smith & Sheth’s exclusive 

Exchange 

To bring all of these wine companies together, Steve 

and Brian opened the Smith & Sheth Cellar Door 

and Wine Lounge and the Heretaunga Studio in the 

Courtyard of the Village Exchange in Havelock North. 

The studio has a theatre, a lounge and a barrel cellar 

experience all rolled into one, the idea being to make 

it as interactive as possible. Only eight guests at a time 

can participate in the experience. Sommelier Sonya 

Eberly heads the wine experience team. 

For more information on Smith & Sheth, visit 

www.smithandsheth.com 

Steve and Brian believe strongly 

in New Zealand’s wine potential, 

particularly in the cool limestone 

slopes of the Waikari region in 

North Canterbury, and on the 

older, more weathered schist soils 

of Central Otago. “We also believe 

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the 

world’s great varieties that deserves to 

be recognised as a fine wine. It will 

continue to be a major part of our 

portfolio,” says Steve. 

Smith & Sheth’s CRU, based in 

Hawke’s Bay, currently has a portfolio 

containing Albarino; three different 

expressions of Chardonnay from 

three separate sites; Cantera (a red 

blend led by Cabernet); and two 

Syrahs. An eighth wine, Sauvignon 

Blanc, is sourced from specific 

old vine parcels around Renwick 

township and Sam and Mandy 

Weavers biodynamic vineyard on 

the hills above the 

Waihopai Valley. 

The recentlyopened 

the Smith & 

Sheth Oenotheque 

and the Heretaunga 

Studio in Havelock 

North are a cellar 

door, wine lounge and 

tasting experience. The 

Hereatunga Studio 

takes up to 8 people, 

while the Oenotheque- 

Cellar Door and Wine 

Lounge is open to 

more people on a walk 

up basis. W 


Fifty 

Shades 

OFRosé 

If you lined up all the 

rosé wines available 

in New Zealand, 

you’d see at least fifty 

different colours. From 

red to pink, onion skin 

to salmon, all tints of rosé 

are correct. There is no 

guidebook on rosé colour, 

although the trend recently 

has been towards salmon or 

pale apricot versions. 

Rosé can be produced 

from any red grape variety. 

Pinot Noir is the most 

popular in New Zealand, 

but Merlot, Tempranillo, 

Syrah, the Cabernets and 

blends are also widely used. 

If colour is your thing, 

choosing a bottle of 

rosé is easy. Price is not 

particularly indicative of 

quality; however, if taste, 

texture and palate pleasure 

is a more exciting option, 

a little more back label 

reading or wine review 

check will be needed. 

Rosé can be made very 

dry to dry, with most New 

Zealand styles often justdry. 

What was once the 

medium to sweet option 

is all but gone. Rosé’s invogue 

status has ushered in 

a selection of more serious 

options, growing the range 

on offer, both at retail and 

on wine lists. 

Winemakers looking 

to produce a more 

serious expression of rosé 

pay particular attention 

towards aroma, complexity 

and structure for 

example - using natural 

fermentation for a portion 

or all of the juice. The use 

of older oak adds structure, 

even extended skin 

contact for more tannin 

and grip (the trade-off is 

more red pigment, but 

remember all rosé colour 

is valid). Even capturing 

a layer of minerality 

makes for more serious 

drinking options. 

Wineries that 

specifically produce red 

wine have the option to 

change the juice-to-skin 

ratio, allowing winemakers 

to produce a darker 

coloured wine. To achieve 

this they need to bleed 

away some juice. This 

process is called Saignée 

- a French term meaning 

to ‘bleed’. The juice that is 

‘bled’ away after an initial 

12 – 24 hours skin contact 

is used to make rosé. 

Another option is when 

the intended outcome 

uses 100% of the juice 

available to make a rosé. 

The particular shade of 

rosé a producer ends 

up making depends on 

skin contact, exposure to 

oxygen and the use of oak 

or wine barrels. 

A ROSÉ BY ANY OTHER COLOUR TASTES 

JUST AS SWEET – OR, THESE DAYS, DRY 


TASTING NOTES ROSÉ 

Johanneshof Cellars Maybern Single 

1 

Vineyard Rosé 2017 Marlborough 

An intriguing, attractive bouquet with a mix of minerality, 

light red fruits and complexity. Dry, fine and fruity on the 

palate with a mix of flavours and textures from red pear 

and red apple, some old strawberry, red tea, medium+ 

acidity and mineral notes. Lengthy finish; balanced and 

well made. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz 

RRP $25.00 

ME by Matahiwi Estate Rosé 2018 

2 

Wairarapa 

Plush, fruity and refreshingly fragrant bouquet of rosé. 

Cherry and raspberry, sweet plum and rose. Crisp, fruity, 

refreshing and dry on the finish. Fruit flavours reflect the 

nose, lovely acid line and lightweight bright finish. Lots to 

like, easy to drink. Best from today and through 2020. 

POINTS: 92 


RRP $19.99 

Toi Toi Sara’s Rosé 2018 Marlborough 

3 

From a noticeable onion skin hued appearance 

comes aromas of apple and red plum, a hint of starwberry, 

rose and saffron. Dry on the palate with flavours that mirror 

the nose, ultra fine fruit tannins and bright acid line show off 

the texture and European style this wine is. Dry on the finish 

with best drinking from today and through 2021. 

POINTS: 92 


RRP $14.99 


1 2 

3 


TASTING NOTES ROSÉ 

new zealand 

is for future 

generations 

92 

PTS 

Vidal Reserve Rosé 2018 Hawke's Bay 

4 

Plush, juicy, fruity and inviting bouquet of 

Rosé - red berries, sweet red plum and pomegranate. 

Fleshy, juicy and ripe on the palate with strawberry and 

cherry fruit highlights, plenty of crisp and refreshing acidity 

with a satin texture and lengthy finish. Easy to drink in a 

just-dry style, ready to enjoy between now and late 2019. 

POINTS: 91 


RRP $19.99 

Selaks The Taste Collection Berries and 

5 

Cream Rosé 2019 Hawke's Bay 

Fresh, ripe, lush and vobrant bouquet of light red berry fruits, 

rosehip tea and sweet air (just before the rain). Crisp, dry and 

fruity with flavours of cherry and red berry fruits, cold fruit 

tea and gentle fruit spice moments. Balanced and well made. 


POINTS: 89 


RRP $21.99 

Hello Sailor Pinot Noir Rosé 2017 

6 

Marlborough 

Fleshy fruity bouquet with strawberry, peach quench and 

‘Raro’ tropical fruit mix. A floral and peach side adding an 

abundance of freshness and familiarity. Crisp, fruity and dry 

with all the flavours described above. A great summer drinking 

choice - not too bold, not too serious, just fun. Best from today 

and through 2019. 

POINTS: 87 

Contact: www.hellosailorwine.co.nz 

RRP $18.99 

4 5 

6 

SAVE OUR RAREST BIRDS 

Toi Toi has partnered with Forest & Bird to help 

save rare native birds like the orange fronted 

kākāriki. A donation goes to support their work 

with every bottle sold from our range. 

Visit toitoiwines.co.nz for T&Cs 

NEW ZEALAND WINE 


ORGANICS 

Organic 

Matters 

AS SUSTAINABLE PLANTING AND GROWING METHODS BECOME 

MORE AVAILABLE, ORGANIC WINE IS STARTING TO FIND ITS 

Vineyard organics is a 

philosophy, a way of 

thinking translated 

into a system that 

sustains the health of our 

ecosystems, both above and below 

ground, and the people who 

maintain the land. 

The Maori term ‘Toitu’ 

explains the philosophy of 

organics well – that land should 

be eternally sustainable. The goals 

of organics include healthy vines, 

healthy grapes and great wine. 

The growth of New Zealand 

organic viticulture has been 

significant over the past 15 years. 

Around 10 percent of New 

Zealand wine producers currently 

hold organic certification for their 

vineyards, with many more using 

organic farming practices without 

seeking certification. The focus 

for these systems comes from 

the philosophy that a vineyard 

can work in harmony with the 

rhythms and processes of nature. 

The term ‘organic’ is often 

used in everyday food and 

beverage language for advertising 

the health benefits of the product 

to which it is attached. Long 

PLACE IN THE MARKET 

before ‘interventionist’ wine 

growing and making became 

common, organic practices 

were the norm. Interventionist 

(‘modern’) systems have been 

used, and still are, to control 

weeds, crop size and winemaking 

practices. While there is nothing 

wrong with this approach if 

carefully managed, it may include 

the use of particular equipment, 

herbicides and pesticides, 

fertilisers and practices that don’t 

protect the soil’s natural health 

and balance. 

Biodynamics takes the ideas of 

organics deeper, with a focus on 

understanding and managing the 

vineyard as an holistic organism. 

Biodynamic methods include the 

use of special plant, animal and 

mineral preparations which are 

used for disease prevention, soil 

nourishment and pest control. 

An awareness of the need to 

care for the future that has led 

to an increasing number of New 

Zealand producers incorporating 

organic practices. It has also been 

proven that there are other longterm 

benefits and potential cost 

savings to be made. W 

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 

1 


Very attractive bouquet of organic and vegan 

Sauvignon Blanc with a core of fruit then a leeslike 

spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla. Silky 

texture on the palate with flavours of citrus and 

gooseberry, some tropical fruits and persimmon. 

A tangerine peel note and wild flowers. Plenty 

of acidity and lengthy finish. What a lovely wine! 


POINTS: 95 


RRP $21.99 

Villa Maria Platinum Selection 

2 

Organic Pinot Noir 2017 

Marlborough 

Ripe, light red fruit aromas deliver freshness and 

ripeness on the nose. Suggestions of raspberry 

and redcurrant, cherry and red apple. Gentle wood 

spices emerge as it relaxes in glass, with a moderate 

toasty signature. Dry on palate, with plenty of core 

fruit. Youthful, fresh and vibrant, with vibrant fine 

tannins, toasty wood and brown spices, gently 

warming alcohol and fruit-led finish. Balanced; lots 

to like. Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.villamariawines..com 

RRP $29.99 

Loveblock Pinot Gris 2018 

3 

Marlborough 

Enticing Gris; fleshy and juicy white peach, pear 

and yellow apple aromas in this organic vegan 

wine. Noticeable white pepper and light lees layer, 

suggesting ginger and barley sugar. Just dry on the 

palate, with flavours reflecting the nose, bright white 

spice note returns. Drink now and through 2020. 

POINTS: 89 


RRP $21.99 

1 2 3 


Label 

Language 

WHETHER YOU BUY YOUR WINE ONLINE, A LOCAL LIQUOR 

OUTLET OR SPECIALIST WINE STORE, YOUR PURCHASE 

DECISIONS ARE ALWAYS - OR AT LEAST - MADE PARTLY ON TRUST. 

CAMERON UNCOVERS SOME OF THE SECRETS BEHIND THE 

MEANING OF WINE LABELS 

I’m often asked to decode or 

explain wine label language 

- from grape variety and 

pronunciation, to back 

label wording and the meaning 

behind stickers. 

All wine sold in New Zealand, 

including imported wine, must 

follow the labelling and composition 

rules and requirements of the Food 

Standards Australia New Zealand 

(FSANZ) code. 

If a wine label announces a 

grape variety or varieties, a vintage 

or region of origin statement 

(for example, Chardonnay 2018 

Marlborough), this means 85% of the 

variety, vintage and geography must 

be as stated. Producers can vary the 

other 15% - perhaps including the 

use of other varieties, regions and 

vintages to complete aroma, palate 

feel and balance – though most 

wines are 100% as stated. 

ADDITIVES 

Most, if not all, wine is clear, with no 

haze or unusual-looking suspended 

matter. During vinification, most 

winemakers use a substance to 

assist in making a wine clear and 

consumer ready. 

A growing number of people 

now react to additives in food and 

beverage products, and many make 

lifestyle choices around animal 

products. Reactions to additives in 

wine are actually extremely rare 

(current research supports this). 

• Fish products, typically isinglass, 

may be used to remove tannins, 

making wine feel softer and 

more balanced. 

• Egg white, or albumen may 

also be used for the same effect, 

removing tannin, particularly in 

red wine. 

• Milk and milk products are used 

to remove compounds associated 

with bitterness and browning. 

“Preservative 220’ is 

a common term for the 

use of sulphites” 

According to the New Zealand 

MPI (Ministry for Primary 

Industries), a wine label must include 

an allergen declaration, if milk, egg 

and fish (except isinglass, which is 

not an allergan) are present. 

All wine is decanted off any 

sediments before bottling so any 

trace amounts are extremely low. 

If a label states ‘bottled unfined’ 

this will indicate that a wine has not 

been subject to any of the processes 

listed above, keeping the texture of 

the wine as the winemaker intended. 

As a taster you may notice more 

complexity and texture. 

Many wines are passed through a 

filter or membrane before bottling, 

rendering it clear. The winemaker 

may choose not to filter the 

wine, to keep a particular texture 

and complexity. 

Additives like sulphites are used as 

part of the bottling process for wine, 

and trace amounts may remain in 

the wine. A label may say ‘Contains 

sulphites’ (very common, but used in 

extremely tiny amounts). Sulphites 

and sulphur are natural elements, 

modified to be used as liquid or gas 

to stave off or neutralise bacteria, 

and slow the effects of oxygen on 

wine. If preservatives are used (usual 

practice) then this must be declared 

on the label. 

VEGAN AND ORGANIC 

Vegan wines are increasingly popular. 

This means there are no animalbased 

agents like milk, fish or gelatin 

used in the winemaking, stabilisation 

or filtering process. I am frequently 

asked about the status of sulphites – 

they are 100% vegan. 

‘Organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ refers 

to philosophies around grape- 


INSIDE VOICES 

growing and winemaking. No 

chemical pesticides, herbicides and 

manufactured fertilisers are used 

in or around the vineyard and 

winery, nor are artificial additives, 

making these wines a good choice 

for wine drinkers sensitive to 

particular compounds. Biodynamic 

wineries follow the lunar calendar, 

apply particular tea preparations, 

homemade compost and other plant 

life to enhance soil health, and for 

weed control and vine growth. 

The organic movement in New 

Zealand is significant enough that 

increasing numbers of producers 

practice. Some wonderful examples 

pass through my tasting table (see 

page 45). 

FINE WINES OF NEW 

ZEALAND 

Some of the best wines in New 

Zealand are regularly rated by wellknown 

critics, or through wine 

competition events (though there 

are select wineries who don’t enter, 

for many reasons including supersmall 

production or already sold 

out production). The most recent 

addition to the review process here 

has been the Fine Wines of New 

Zealand programme, of which I am 

a proud member (see marked bottles 

in my Tasting Notes). This Air New 

Zealand-supported programme 

is available to producers of wine 

in New Zealand. It is not a wine 

competition, but an opportunity to 

showcase current release wines to a 

team of local Masters of Wine and a 

Master Sommelier (yours truly). 

If the wines meet the rigid 

standards, samples of older vintages 

are also reviewed to demonstrate 

potential longevity and style 

consistency. There are no gold 

stickers – rather a recognition 

of prestige and confirmation 

from some experienced and 

knowledgeable palates that the 

wine represents the best from New 

Zealand, making it an excellent 

purchase decision. W 

Scores & Stickers 

There are a plethora of brightlycoloured 

award stickers. In the 

very competitive world of wine 

any recognition of quality a 

producer receives can become very 

important, so it pays to be aware of 

the meaning and significance (or 

otherwise) of these accolades. 

Some wine lovers will talk to their 

friends or a trusted sommelier, 

some to wine store hosts - others 

regularly read wine reviews and 

scores to assist in their decisions. 

Displaying scores and accolades 

by way of stickers on the bottle 

can unquestionably be a successful 

marketing tool - those gold, silver or 

bronze decals draw attention, and a 

high score or critic review can be a 

recipe for successful sales. 

But. What do all these scores, 

stickers and reviews mean for you? 

Wine scoring originated in wine 

competitions to allow a group of 

judges to recognise quality wine 

by using a relative scale. Many 

wine writers and critics adopted 

the strategy for their own reviews – 

these days I, like many others, use 

the one hundred point scale (see 

page 7), though some use the 20 

Point, or *star* awards. An 88/100 

score generally equals a very nice 

wine, equivalent to a bronze in a 

wine show. On the same scale, 

95/100 equals an excellent wine – 

which will translate to a gold sticker if 

that is offered (silver sits between). 

The Star system is also recognised 

by consumers. It’s an easy-to-follow, 

simple for consumers to understand 

system (for example, 3.5 Stars would 

be a recommended wine and 5 Stars 

an excellent example). 

Some wine producers choose to 

display layers of stickers, or worse 

- make labels littered with stickers 

in the design. I am not a fan of 

this approach. 

Take care to read stickers – while 

some represent a genuine review 

from a recognised critic, wine 

competition, or reputable magazine 

panel, others may simply refer to an 

award the winery has received. 


SPARKLING WINES 

Modern 

Methodes 

Unwrapping 

the foil, six half 

twists of the wire, 

hold the cork 

and turn the bottle; the pressure 

builds and then…. a gentle sigh 

(or pop!) as the pressure equalises 

with the outside world. You’ve 

just opened a bottle of happiness - 

sparkling wine. 

For many of us, sparkling wine is the 

wine of celebration, to toast an occasion 

or to gift to a special person. Whatever the 

reason for buying bubbles, we are spoiled for 

choice when it comes to producers and price. 

Great sparkling shows elegance, finesse, poise 

and tension, white fleshed fruits and citrus, a fine 

mousse texture with a gazillion bubbles and a long 

complex finish. 

The best New Zealand sparkling wines are produced 

using the Methode Traditionnelle process. Only the French 

region of Champagne can use the term Champagne and 

the Methode Champenoise process. New Zealand bottled 

fermented sparkling wines use the Methode Traditionnelle 

process – which is exactly the same as the French. Typically 

made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in New Zealand, base 

wines are blended then refermented in bottle, aged on yeast lees 

for 12 to 48 months (or longer) then disgorgement of yeast - the 

process of removing the spent yeast from the bottle after the 

ageing process is complete. Style created (Brut Nature, Brut or 

Demi-Sec are common), the cork is wired down, then it’s label 

on, and off to market. W 

Cameron’s 

Top Tipples 

These are my top fifteen. 

• NO1 Family Estate Reserve 

Blanc de Blancs NV 

• Quartz Reef Blanc de 

Blancs 2013 

• Nautilus Marlborough Cuvée Brut NV 

• Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé NV 

• Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2015 

• Tohu Rewa Rosé 2015 

• Aotea Methode Traditionnelle NV 

• Hunter's MiruMiru Reserve 2015 

• Akarua Brut 2015 

• Akarua Rosé Brut NV 

• NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Adele 2013 

• NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Remy 2013 

• Quartz Reef Rosé NV 

• Palliser Estate The Griffin 2015 


I 

n 1971 our father Hermann arrived in New Zealand with a dream 

of making great wines. He and our mother Agnes, pioneered 

modern winemaking in the Nelson region, planting the first vines and 

in 1976 producing their first wines. Now over 40 years later we celebrate 

their vision, and the arrival of the next generation, our children, who are 

growing up in the vineyard and winery. Our family, and very dedicated 

team are proud to craft internationally renowned wines in this very special 

corner of the world. Wines made for sharing. 

NELSON MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV 

AWARDED 

Champion Sparkling Wine 

Gold Medal 

Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2017 

“Exquisitely expressed and supremely elegant with white 

stone-fruit, lemon bread and yeasty characters, wonderfully 

enhanced by fine texture and zesty acidity.” 

Judges Comments, Air NZ Wine Awards 2017 

www.seifried.co.nz 

@seifriedestate

TASTING NOTES BUBBLES 

Akarua Rosé Brut Non 

1 

Vintage Marlborough 

A beautiful bouquet of rosé with 

aromas of crushed strawberry, red 

cherry and red apple. A core of 

autolysis suggests biscuit and bread 

with a soft ginger spice moment. Dry, 

explosive mousse, packed with red fruit 

and peach flavours, some mandarin 

peel and yeasty messages. High acidity, 

crisp, dry, lengthy, balanced and well 

made. Lots to love. Drink now and 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $38.00 

Nautilus Cuvée 

2 

Brut Non-Vintage 

Marlborough 

Complex and enticing bouquet with a 

light savoury core surrounded by aromas 

and flavours white peach, an array of 

citrus and strawberry. Dry, silky, fleshy, 

fruity, savoury and complex. Very fine 

mousse with high acidity, a soft brioche 

and yeasty layer, balanced lengthy finish. 


POINTS: 95 


RRP $44.95 

Hunter's MiruMiruTM 

3 

Reserve 2015 

Marlborough 

A bouquet of a wine that is ready to 

enjoy. Integrated aromas of peach and 

apple, a nutty autolysis and minerality. 

Bold and expressive mousse on the palate 

carrying and emphasising flavours of 

baked stone-fruits, strawberry, apple and 

a biscuity brioche warmth. Abundant 

acidity and concentration ensures this 

wine will continue to age for the next few 

years. Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.hunters.co.nz 

RRP $38.90 

Palliser Estate The Griffin 

4 

2015 Martinborough 

Complex bouquet of sparkling wine 

centering on a brioche and biscuity 

autolysis followed by scents of white 

strawberry, citrus and white flowers. 

Dry, weighty, fruity and very tasty 

on the palate. Flavours reflect the 

nose with a white fleshed fruits core, 

a delicate mineral layer, refreshingly 

crisp mousse and precise lengthy finish. 

Apertif style, great with food. Drink 


POINTS: 91 


RRP $53.00 

5 Hunter's MiruMiruTM Non 

Vintage Marlborough 

Lovely bouquet with a fruity, leesy 

attack, some spice and balanced 

bottled development complexity. Crisp 

and dry with a lemon and crunchy 

apple flavours, a soft yeasty quality 

and fine mousse. Balanced and well 

made. A wine to please many who like 

bubbles. Drink now and through 2022. 

POINTS: 91 

Contact: www.hunters.co.nz 

RRP $28.90 

Pask Declaration 

6 

Methode Traditionnelle 

2010 Hawke’s Bay 

A bold and rich bouquet packed with 

a nutty, yeasty and yellow stone-fruits. 

Dry, firm and crisp on the palate with 

flavours of lemon, apple and custard 

brioche. Quite weighty and fullbodied 

richness. With some bottle 

development and nutty spice layers, 

a wine with some complexity and 

intrigue. Drink now and through 2022. 

POINTS: 90 


RRP $30.00 

1 2 3 4 5 6 


A Giesen Wine For All Occasions. 

CONTACT YOUR GIESEN GROUP REPRESENTATIVE OR PHONE 03 344 6270

Aromatically 

Speaking 

All wines have aroma, a 

signature set of smells 

that define the variety or 

blend of varieties used. 

Winemaking techniques such as the use 

of oak or extra time spent on lees post 

ferment contribute to the final package 

of smells referred to as ‘aroma’. 

The term ‘aromatic’ refers to a 

specific category of white grape 

varieties which contain an extra set of 

naturally-occurring compounds called 

‘terpenes’. Terpenes enhance, even 

amplify the spice, fruit and floral scents 

of wine. This makes them particularly 

distinctive. Terpenes emerge in certain 

varieties to a greater or lesser degree 

based on growing conditions such as 

soil, climate and viticulture practices. 

The following wines are all classified 

as aromatic or semi-aromatic and are 

readily available in New Zealand: 

Wurzer, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, 

Torrontes, Albarino, Riesling, Muller 

Thurgau and Pinot Gris. These wines 

are floral, fruity and can be quite 

intense on both the nose and palate 

with moderate acidity. Textures ranges 

from soft and creamy to satin or silky 

and crisp. 

Gewürztraminer is the most intense 

and exotic of the aromatic varieties 

with flavours of tropical fruits, roses 

and spices. Descriptors such as lavender, 

talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper 

and even apple strudel have been used 

to describe the wine. 

If you’re a whiz in the kitchen and 

keen on food to serve with aromatic 

wines, look to lush, creamy dishes. Paté, 

tofu or cream of pumpkin soup work 

deliciously well, while wet textured 

proteins such as pork or sous-vide 

chicken and turkey are an excellent 

match. Asian cuisine is a common 

pairing with aromatic varieties, but be 

careful to stick to fragrant spiced menu 

items, like lemongrass and galangal. 

Heat spices in Asian dishes in general 

inflame the spice and alcohol in the 

wine, rendering the pairings impossible. 

Wines that have a noticeable residual 

sweetness such as an off-dry Riesling 

often work well with spicy dishes. W 


TASTING NOTES AROMATICS 

Pegasus Bay Bel Canto 

1 

Riesling 2017 North 

Canterbury 

Complex and vibrant bouquet of 

Riesling with aromas then flavours of 

lemon flesh, pith & zest, green and red 

apple with a pungent honeysuckle, 

mandarin and limeflower core. Pristine 

acid line, great weight and texture, 

youthful with a long complex finish. 

Best from 2021 through 2031. 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $37.00 

Churton Petit Manseng 

2 


Very specific bouquet; exotic, individual 

and captivating. Quince, baked pineapple 

and candied fruits. Floral, fresh, youthful 

and complex. Delicious on the palate 

with an electric acidity, plush and exotic 

flavours, quite sweet, but well balanced, 

lengthy persistent finish. Lots of 

sweetness to enjoy; great with a rhubarb 

clafoutis. Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.churton-wines.co.nz 

RRP $43.99 

3 Johanneshof 

Gewürztraminer 2018 

Marlborough 

Fragrant and complex, subtle and layered, 

fruity and varietal. A well defined and 

fine example of this variety with layers of 

tree and tropical fruits, roses, elderflower, 

spices and gentle creamy texture. A 

delicious wine with a core of minerality, 

some white pepper-laced pear, quince 

and apple, honeysuckle and rose. Elegant 

and ready. Drink now and through 2022. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz 

RRP $35.00 

Askerne Reserve 

4 


Hawke’s Bay 

A complex and interesting bouquet, 

with aromas of dried herbs and spices, 

then baked pineapple, pear and 

apple. Dry on the palate, with a dried 

herb-led package of flavours, lemon 

and apple, tropical fruits and flowers, 

complex. Fairly lengthy finish, nicely 

balanced and well made. Drink now 


POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz 

RRP $29.90 

5 Loveblock 


Marlborough 

Fragrant, floral, fruity, spicy and very 

attractive bouquet of this vegan 

Gewürztraminer. Flavours of whitefleshed 

fruits, rice pudding, white 

flowers and baking spices, a soft 

herbaceous layer and white stone 

mineral core. Weighty and creamy, 

lengthy and delicious. Perfect wine 

for Peking Duck. Drink now and 

through 2023. 

POINTS: 93 


RRP $21.99 

Giesen Gemstone 

6 

Riesling 2018 

Marlborough 

Totally enticing aromas of Riesling, 

with mandarin and lime flower, apple 

and lemon. Off-dry, with a noticeable 

residual sweetness, refreshing acidity, 

a light creamy texture and flavours 

that reflect the nose. Drink now and 

through 2025. 

POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz 

RRP $18.99 

 


1 2 3 4 5 6 


TASTING NOTES AROMATICS 

Tohu Whenua Matua 

7 

Single Vineyard Albariño 

2017 Upper Moutere, Nelson 

An immediate appeal on the nose; 

exotic aromas of fruit tree blossom 

and peach, orange piko tea, apple and 

lemon curd. Exotic too on the palate - 

honesuckle and fruit spice, peach then 

lemon, orange piko tea and ginger spice 

with lees complexity. Nice weight with 

a core of fruit and contrasting acidity. A 

seamless transition on the palate from 

stonefruit to citrus and a lengthy finish. 


POINTS: 92 

www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries 

RRP $29.99 

Old Coach Road Riesling 

8 

2017 Nelson 

Aromas and flavours of ripe sweet citrus 

and apricot stone. A simple yet fragrant 

wine with fresh crunchy textures from 

high acidity and wet stone minerality. 

Refreshing, just dry, loads of flavour with 

white peach, a touch of green tea and 

lemon. Ideal as an aperitif or with simple 

appetisers such as oysters and mussels. 


POINTS: 91 


RRP $13.00 

Palliser Estate Riesling 

9 


A really lovely bouquet of Riesling with 

aromas and flavours of white rose and 

lemon, crunchy apple with a leaning 

towards Granny Smith, white apricot, wet 

stone and soft silty mineral undertone. 

Plenty of acidity, crisp, refreshing 

and dry on the finish. Drink now and 

through 2024. 

POINTS: 91 


RRP $25.00 

Yealands Estate Single 

10 

Estate Gewürztraminer 

2018 Awatere Valley 

Very fragrant, floral, fruity varietal, with 

aromas of honeysuckle and white peach, 

roses and sweet lychee, pears and apples 

and loads of spice. Really nice silky 

texture on the palate with flavours that 

match the nose, medium acidity and a 

lengthy calm finish, always returning to 

the spice layer. Balanced and well made. 


POINTS: 91 


RRP $25.00 

Yealands Estate Single 

11 

Vineyard Riesling 2018 

Awatere Valley 

Floral, precise and fruity bouquet with 

aromas and flavours of lemon and 

white peach, ripe green apple and rose. 

Crisp and dry, lightweight on the palate 

and refreshingly lengthy finish. A lovely 

aperitif option and great with delicate 

seafoods or summer salads. Drink now 


POINTS: 90 


RRP $25.00 

Loveblock Riesling 2014 

12 

Marlborough 

Varietal, fruity and floral with aromas 

of green apple, lemon and jasmine. 

Off-dry on the palate with a noticeable 

sweetness and flavours that mirror ther 

nose. Very youthful with a nervous 

tension from the acidity contrasted 

by lemon and apple flavours. Decent 

length and finish. Best to wait a year or 

two before exploring this wine again - 

2021 through 2026 should be best. 

POINTS: 88 


RRP $21.99 

7 8 9 10 11 12 


RED WINES 

I see 

red! 

SELECTING THE APPROPRIATE RED WINE FOR AN OCCASION OR 

MEMORABLE MOMENT IS VERY PERSONAL, DEPENDING ON YOUR 

PARTICULAR STYLE OR TASTE. DO SOME HOMEWORK TO HELP YOU 

DISCOVER SOMETHING DIFFERENT - YOU WON'T REGRET IT 

When it comes to 

diversity and quality, 

our NZ red wines 

are pretty impressive. 

Pinot Noir is a good example. It has 

a wonderful way of reflecting the site 

where it is grown or a thread of flavour 

that the producer likes to harness. The 

use of whole-bunch (as opposed to 

de-stemmed) fruit as a percentage of 

the finished wine is quite common. 

So too is the use of oak and how long 

the wine matures for in barrel, which 

impacts heavily on the final taste. Less 

preservative at bottling, un-fined and 

unfiltered are two more influences of 

texture and taste. All these ideas speak 

to the style, flavour and expression 

that a producer is trying to convey. 

Two example Pinots Noir that will 

allow your adventurous side to take 

charge are Grasshopper Rock and 

Lowburn Ferry. 

Syrah is the jewel in the vinous 

crown of New Zealand. The variety 

has been part of our wine scene for 

some time, but has lived somewhat 

in the shadow of Pinot Noir and 

Cabernet. Not anymore. Northland, 

Waiheke Island, Gisborne, Hawke's 

Bay, Wairarapa and Marlborough all 

have excellent examples to consider. 

The aroma and taste profile of Syrah is 

somewhat particular though with black 

currant and spices, raspberry and aged 

meats, pepper, violets, bold tannins and 

a backbone of acidity. An excellent food 

wine for sure. Two must try examples 

include Villa Maria’s Reserve and 

Te Mata Estate Bullnose. W 


Pinosity 

OF ALL NEW ZEALAND WINES, PINOT NOIR IS ARGUABLY 

THE MOST FAMOUS, AND DIVERSE, OF THEM ALL 

Pinot Noir really is 

‘Romance in a Glass’. 

Sommeliers and 

wine professionals, 

collectors of fine wine and 

even beginners to wine 

appreciation fall in love with 

Pinot Noir time and time 

again. The are many reasons 

why, but most of them centre 

on the beguiling and seductive 

scents Pinot Noir can reveal. 

Cherry, strawberry and 

raspberry flavours of every 

kind, colour and ripeness, 

to organic and inorganic 

minerality, mushroom, truffle, 

and baking spices. Fine to 

chalky tannins, layers of oak 

and subtle wood smoke all 

play their part in creating the 

synergy and tease that can 

make Pinot so enticing. 

Pinot Noir takes time to 

get used to. Some examples, 

often the best ones, are led by 

stubborn tannins, outspoken 

acidity, whole-bunch and a 

savoury attack - to the point 

that the core of pure fruit can 

be missed. Pinot Noir is often 

not drinkable upon release, 

because the tannins and acidity 

overpower the finer textures 

and harmonies that come from 

bottle age and integration. 

Ultimately, finding Pinots Noir 

that are drinkable soon, versus 

those requiring cellar time, 

will take both a budget - and 

patience - to taste through the 

range available. A few shortcuts 

can be made by reading wine 

notes and reviews of wine 

commentators that you trust. W 


TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Akarua The Siren Pinot 

1 

Noir 2016 Central Otago 

Varietal, youthful, specific and captivating 

bouquet with voices of place and fruit, a 

steely raw energy, very specific barrel use 

with spice white smoke qualities. There's a 

‘je ne sais quoi’ attribute as well - a certain 

synergy of floral and mineral. A core of fruit 

and sweet oak flavours on the palate; spices, 

flowers and harmony. Long finish, complex 

and excellent. Best window for drinking 

2020 through 2030. 

POINTS: 97 


RRP $110.00 

Ostler Caroline's Pinot Noir 

2 

2016 Waitaki Valley 

Complex, attractive and layered bouquet. 

Mineral then fruit, wood smoke and dark 

spices. Fantastic on the palate with a core of 

dark cherry and plum, oak spices and a core 

of minerality. Very floral, dried herbs and 

tea. Chalky tannins, vibrant youthful texture, 

long finish. A fantastic wine. Best from 2022 


POINTS: 97 

Contact: www.ostlerwine.co.nz 

RRP $65.00 

Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 

3 

2017 Central Otago 

Complex, youthful core of fruit and wood 

spices. Layers of dried herb and exotic tea. 

Dry and equally complex on the palate with 

flavours that mirror the nose, plus many more 

emerging and evolving as the wine opens up in 

the glass. Firm youthful tannins and acidity to 

match, a core of fruit and minerality suggesting 

crushed rocks. Dried herb, layers of wood 

spice, lengthy finish, youthful and dry. Best 


POINTS: 96 

Contact: www.quartzreef.co.nz 

RRP $$65.00 

Domain Road Defiance 

4 

Pinot Noir 2016 Central 

Otago 

A complex bouquet, with ripe dark berries 

and baking spices, a core of dark cherry, 

baked raspberry, clove and vanilla, smoked 

wood and violet. Equally complex on the 

palate with flavours that mirror the nose. The 

core of red berry fruit flavours underpins 

layers of texture from firm youthful tannins 

and acidity, new oak and flavour synergies 

that can only come from excellent fruit and 

proper winemaking. Complex lengthy finish. 

Drink from 2020 through 2030+. 

POINTS: 96 

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz 

RRP $65.00 


5 

Taylors Pass Pinot Noir 2013 

Marlborough 

Fantastic complex and engaging bouquet of 

Pinot Noir, with flavours of wild red berries 

of the forest, savoury baking and wood 

spices and a deep engaging complexity. 

Dry, savoury detailed and delicious with a 

core of fruit and appealing texture from fine 

abundant tannins and plenty of acidity. Long 

complex finish. Best from 2019 through 2029. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $59.99 


6 

Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 

Awatere Valley Marlborough 

Smoky with a core of red fruits, baking 

spices, dark cherry, raspberry and plum, 

then rose and red zinger tea. Dry on the 

palate with a core of fruit, exotic red tea, 

firm chalky tannins and plenty of acidity. 

The oak and smoky wood suggestions layer 

in on the finish, highlighting a dried herb 

and stony mineral suggestion. Well made, 

complex and lengthy. Cellar time needed 

to complete the integration of flavours and 

textures. 

POINTS: 96 


whenuaseries 

RRP $41.99 

7 

China Girl by Crown Range 

Cellar Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 


Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with exotic 

barrel spices, a Central Otago core of 

raspberry and dark red cherry fruits, smoky 

French oak and soft wild thyme. Equally 

complex and intense on the palate with 

textures of chalky tannins and medium+ 

acidity, crushed schist and flinty mineral 

earthy qualities then a core of red berry 

fruits. Varietal, youthful, tense and poised for 

cellar ageing. Balanced and well made. Best 


POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.crownrangecellar.com 

RRP $69.99 

 



Discover perfection within 

www.nautilusestate.com 

Drink responsibly

WINE AND FOOD 

Warm in 

Winter 

A GOOD MULLED WINE 

REQUIRES A FRUITY FLAVOUR 

BASE FIRST AND FOREMOST 

MULLED WINE 

Ingredients 

→ 1 bottle Selaks Reserve Merlot 

Cabernet 

→ 1 orange, peeled (reserve zest) and 

thinly sliced 

→ 3-4 slices thinly-cut lemon, peeled 

(reserve zest) 

→ 1 cinnamon stick 

→ 8 cloves 

→ 2 star anise 

→ 3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed 

to release scent 

→ 1 bay leaf 

→ 2 tablespoons brown sugar (more if 

you like it sweet) 

Method 

Preheat oven to 120°. Spread 

orange and lemon zests evenly on 

a lined baking tray and bake gently 

for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour 

Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet 

into a saucepan. Add the orange 

slices, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, 

cardamom and bay leaf. Heat until 

warm and barely simmering, do 

not boil. 

Simmer wine for at least 30 minutes, 

longer is fine. Add the brown sugar, 

stir to dissolve and then taste. Strain 

to remove spices and serve with 

baked zests to garnish. 

Cam’s Wine Match 

A recipe for great mulled wine requires a decent 

wine base on which to build a seductive aroma and 

flavour base. The Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet 

steps up nicely, with a core of dark berry and plum 

fruit flavours to contrast the recipes aromatic 

spices. The wine’s back bone of acidity and fine 

tannins add additional tactile elements for a decent winter imbibe. 



Domain Road Paradise 

8 

Pinot Noir 2015 Central 

Otago 

Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with 

strawberry and red cherry, plum, old rose, 

dried herb, thyme and brown spices, 

combined with some bottle age. Equally 

complex on the palate, with layers of 

flavours and textures from roses and plums 

to cherry and rose, tea and brown spices. 

Fine tannins, abundant and chalky. Medium 

acidity, plenty of oak, balanced and well 

made with a long finish. Drink now and 

through 2025. 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $85.00 

Greystone Vineyard 

9 

Fermented Pinot Noir 2017 


Complex and interesting bouquet. Aromas 

of old rose and tea, sweet cherry and old 

orchard apple, hints of leather and spice, 

loaded with clay and limestone-like mineral 

voices and just a little bit sexy. Dry, firm, 

youthful, textured and packed with charm 

and a little mystery. Chalky tannins, plenty 

of acidity, lengthy persistent finish. Very nice 

wine. Drink now and through 2025. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz 

RRP $75.00 

Holly Matahiwi Pinot Noir 

10 


Lovely bouquet with a smoky, darker berry 

bouquet, dark cherry and strawberry, 

clove and vanilla wood spices. Complex. 

Very youthful and dry on the palate with 

flavours that mirror the nose. Plenty of 

texture from fruit and wood tannins and 

flavours from the oak of smoke and brown 

baking spices. Nice finish. Youthful. Ready 

in a year or two. Decant if drinking before 

2022. Best from then and until 2028. 

POINTS: 94 


RRP $39.99 

Kumeu River Hunting Hill 

11 

Pinot Noir 2017 Auckland 

One of the few Pinots Noir produced in 

Auckland, this wine has an old-world feel 

about it, with an earthy mineral core, red 

cherry and cranberry with a strawberry 

moment and complex oak flavours. The 

texture is vibrant and youthful, with fine 

to moderate tannins reflective of both 

fruit and oak, balanced acid line and long 

finish. The complexity builds as the wine 

opens up in glass. A wine to savour and 

enjoy now and through 2025. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.kumeuriver.co.nz 

RRP $50.00 

Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 

12 

2018 Martinborough 

Reflecting its origins, the bouquet shows 

off a core of minerality then fresh red 

berry fruit aromas, cherry and strawberry. 

Fine chalky tannins, ripe and refreshing 

acidity, no mistaking the use of oak, but 

well placed. Lengthy mineral based finish. 


POINTS: 94 


RRP $59.00 

Pegasus Prima Donna 

13 

Pinot Noir 2015 North 

Canterbury 

Beguiling and attractive bouquet with 

alluring scents of new season raspberry, 

plum compote and wild berries. Very 

youthful, raw and new with an oak-centric 

layer on the palate, contrasting fruit, 

tannins need time to integrate, plenty of 

acidity. A wine that needs a peaceful rest 

in your cellar still, with best drinking 2021 


POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.pegasusbay.co.nz 

RRP $95.00 

Pyramid Valley Angel 

14 

Flower Pinot Noir 2016 


Flowers, brown spices, earth and mineral 

moments, tea and pressed roses - the 

very nature of the bouquet is one of 

complexity and intrigue. On the palate: 

complex, dry, savoury and earthy. Flavours 

reflect the bouquet, texture is something 

different - more savoury and intense 

with dried herb and fine tannins, a natural 

level of acidity and complexity. Long and 

intriguing finish. Well made, youthful and 

natural. Drink now and through 2026+. 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $125.00 

 

 


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15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

Tohu Whenua Matua Single 

15 

Vineyard Pinot Noir Upper 

Moutere Nelson 

A pinosity-packed bouquet; aromas of red apple 

and rose, tea and red cherry. Clove and vanilla 

spices are intense, with a French oaky toasty wood 

complexity. Delicious on the palate; quite dry with 

firm tannins and plenty of acidity; a core of fruits 

and oak, with some minerality layer. Youthful, 

medium weight and complex. Decant for service; 

best drinking late 2021 through 2027. 

POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries 

RRP $34.99 


16 

The Attorney Pinot Noir 2015 

Marlborough 

Bright, fresh, sophisticated and youthful, with aromas 

of dark cherry, red apple and plum, some vanilla 

and lighter clove brown spice notes, complex and 

engaging. Dry, firm and youthful. Flavours reflect 

the nose, enhanced by elegant-yet-firm tannins 

and medium+ acidity. Youthful, needing some 

cellar time. Decant for service. Best from late 2019 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $69.99 

Akitu A1 Pinot Noir 2016 

17 

Central Otago 

A richly-scented bouquet of Pinot Noir with aromas 

of dark berries, wood spices, wild thyme and a 

core of savoury complexity. Plum and dark cherry, 

blackcurrant and wildflowers, stony, rocky outcrop 

minerality. Youthful, tense, firm and focused textures 

on the palate with flavours that reflect the nose - 

dark berries then wood spices, some wild thyme and 

undergrowth moments. Youthful tannins and acid 

line. Lengthy finish, dry, well made, youthful. Best 


POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.akitu.wine 

RRP $60.00 

Akitu A2 Central Otago 2017 

18 

Central Otago 

Youthfully vibrant and fruity bouquet, with aromas 

of raspberries, dark cherries, red apple and savoury 

mineral combinations. Some spicy oak suggestions 

add complexity. Equally vibrant on the palate with 

flavours which mirror the nose, abundant fruit and 

oak tannins. Acidity and oak add additional texture. 

A wine to enjoy today if decanted, otherwise best 


POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.akitu.wine 

RRP $45.00 


19 

Pinot Noir 2017 Marlborough 

Rich and vibrant colour with aromas and flavours 

of plums, dark cherries and oak to match the 

power of the bouquet and colour. Dry, with 

abundant core of fruit with fruit & oak tannins, 

plenty of acidity and long finish. A powerful, 

rich and complex example. Best from 2020 

through 2030. 

POINTS: 94 


RRP $45.00 

Domain Road Single Vineyard 

20 

Pinot Noir 2017 Central Otago 

Lovely Pinot Noir bouquet; aromas of dark red 

berries, violets and roses; baking spices, dried 

herb and dry stone minerality. Quite complex but 

youthful. Nice on the palate with a mix of wild red 

fruits, tart dark cherry and dried raspberry. Firm, 

youthful tannins, abundant acidity and core of 

fruit; perfect for longevity. Noticeable oak and 

spice layers, well made and a lengthy finish. Best 


POINTS: 94 


RRP $40.00 

Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke 

21 

Pinot Noir 2016 New Zealand 

A distinctive bouquet: earth, steely and haunting, 

with aromas of soil, fresh and pressed flowers, 

tea and mixed red berry fruits. Dry on the palate 

with silty soil and fine tanning textures, balanced 

acidity and flavours melding with the bouquet. A 

thinker's Pinot Noir, with a lengthy finish. Drink 


POINTS: 94 


RRP $125.00 

Te Mata Alma Pinot Noir 2018 

22 

Hawke's Bay 

An expressive, velvety bouquet with youthful 

power and energy, and a core of fruit, oak and 

savoury complexity. Perfectly weighted on the 

palate; dry, savoury and fruity with plum, cherry 

and spice. Whispers of dark rose and stony 

minerality. Unmistakable oak impact and whole 

bunch approach, but with enough weight and fruit 

to carry it. A young wine with a complexity that 

should carry well into bottle development phase. 

Best decanted for service with ideal drinking 2021 

through 2026. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.temata.co.nz 

RRP $60.00 



Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2017 

23 

Central Otago 

Distinctive bouquet with a smoky, fruity core 

and enticing complexity. Flavours of dark 

cherry and black rose, black currant and vanilla, 

plum and crushed stone. Dry with a plenty of 

tannins and acidity, youthful and developing 

complexities. Very young still needing cellar 

time. Best from 2022 through 2030. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.wooingtree.co.nz 

RRP $48.00 

Luna Estate Pinot Noir 2017 

24 

Martinborough 

Complex and enticing bouquet of Pinot, with 

layers of new oak, ripe red berry fruits, baking 

spices and earthy - mushroom and silty clay 

layers. On the palate: dry with textures and 

flavours reflective of the nose; raspberry and 

dried strawberry, cherry then earthy moments 

of mushroom and soil; decent amount of oak, 

firmer youthful tannins. Well made; drink now 


POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.lunaestate.co.nz 

RRP $26.00 

Te Mata Estate Vineyards 

25 

Pinot Noir 2018 Hawke's Bay 

Immediately varietal, tense, focused bouquet. 

Dark cherry, a host of light red berry fruit, 

savoury note and fresh baking spices. Dry and 

youthful on the palate, with a core of fruit and 

savoury spice. Firm tannins and acidity; there's 

no mistaking the oak, even at 15% new; spice 

and sweetness alongside the savoury whole 

bunch layer adds complexity. Medium weight 

and lengthy finish. Lots of energy, this wine 

still needs some cellar time to settle. Decant 

for service; best drinking from late 2020 

through 2024. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.temata.co.nz 

RRP $30.00 

Lake Chalice The Falcon 

26 


Lots of inviting toasty oak with aromas of 

cinnamon and cedar then strawberry and 

red cherry, some red apple skin and sweet 

rose. Fruity on the palate, with dusty tannins 

and acidity giving a lovely structure against a 

backdrop of light red fruit flavours. Nice dry 

finish, balanced and well made. Drink now 


POINTS: 92 


RRP $18.99 

Lake Chalice The Raptor 

27 


Toasty, savoury, fruity and integrated bouquet 

of Pinot with aromas of red berries, brown 

spices and dry stone minerality. A dry wine, 

with a core of red berry fruit and savoury 

earthy flavours. No mistaking the acidity and 

bite of tannins with a fresh tart fruit finish. A 

wine that needs some more time to settle and 

harmonise its various attributes. Best from 

2021 through 2026. 

POINTS: 90 


RRP $22.99 

Toi Toi Reserve Pinot Noir 

28 


Classic bouquet of an Otago Pinot Noir, with 

dark cherry and undergrowth, dried raspberry 

and toasty wood spices. Dry with firm 

textures of acidity and youthful tannins offset 

by red fruit flavours and brown spices of 

wood and toasted wood flavours. Well-made, 

still youthful and coming together - drink from 

late 2019 through 2026. 

POINTS: 90 


RRP $39.99 

Crafters Union Pinot Noir 

29 


Varietal & fruity bouquet with aromas of red 

cherry and raspberry, whispers of red rose and 

dried herb. Dry on the palate with flavours 

of red apple and cherry, tart raspberry and 

plum. Fine easy tannins, very little oak and a 

crisp dry finish. Drinking well now and through 

2022. Best enjoyed with food through 2020. 

POINTS: 87 

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com 

RRP $21.99 

Selaks The Taste Collection 

30 

Velvety Pinot Noir 2018 

Marlborough 

Fruity, fresh, ripe and forward with aromas 

of red berry fruits especially cherry and 

strawberry, some cranberry and red plum 

moments. A gentle Pinosity. Crisp, tart and 

dry on the palate, abundant acidity and fine 

easy tannins adding texture and a vibrant 

palate feel. Fruit flavours are constant and 

mirror the nose. Lighter weight example. 


POINTS: 86 


RRP $21.99 

23 

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30 


MIGHTY REDS 

Drama 

Queens 

NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKERS ARE PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES 

WHEN IT COMES TO WORLD-CLASS RED WINES, WITH SOME 

BOLD, INTENSE FLAVOURS THAT WILL MAKE LOVERS OF 

Red wine drinkers can 

be very particular 

about the variety and 

style they prefer. When 

it comes to diversity and quality, our 

NZ red wines are pretty impressive. 

Pinot Noir is a good example. It has 

a wonderful way of reflecting the 

site where it is grown or a thread 

of flavour that the producer likes to 

harness. The use of whole-bunch 

(as opposed to de-stemmed) fruit as 

a percentage of the finished wine 

is quite common. So too is the 

use of oak and how long the wine 

matures for in barrel impacts heavily 

on the final taste. Less preservative 

at bottling, un-fined and unfiltered 

are two more influences of texture 

and taste. All these ideas speak to the 

style, flavour and expression that a 

producer is trying to convey. Two 

example Pinots Noir that will allow 

your adventurous side to take charge 

are Grasshopper Rock and Air New 

Zealand Fine Wine Lowburn Ferry. 

WEIGHTIER WINES REJOICE 

Syrah is the jewel in the 

vinous crown of New Zealand. 

The variety has been part of our 

wine scene for some time, but as 

lived somewhat in the shadow of 

Pinot Noir and Cabernet. Not 

any more. Northland, Waiheke 

Island, Gisborne, Hawke's Bay, 

Wairarapa and Marlborough all have 

excellent examples to consider. The 

aroma and taste profile of Syrah is 

somewhat particular though with 

blackcurrant and spices, raspberry 

and aged meats, pepper, violets, bold 

tannins and a back bone of acidity. 

An excellent food wine for sure. 

Two must-try examples include 

Villa Maria’s Reserve and Te Mata 

Estate Bullnose. 

Ideally Merlot should have 

an aroma and flavour package of 

violet or rose and dark plums, a 

fleshy core, suggestions of blue 

fruit and a natural earthy quality. 

Merlot tannins are typically rounder 

and plush. W 

Vidal Soler Syrah 

1 

2017 Gimblett Gravels 

Hawke’s Bay 

A bouquet filled with aromas of violets, black 

currants, raspberry, peppery sweet meats, 

smoky oak and layers of garrigue, dry stone 

and baking spices. Very expressive on the 

palate with flavours of oak and wood smoke, 

dark raspberry and black currant, loads of 

pepper and sweet black olive. Weighty yet 

fine, a strong backbone of acidity and firm 

youthful tannins, a core of fruit and ripeness 

with a long dry finish. This wine is delicious. 

Decant for service now and through 2022. 

Excellent drinking from 2022 through 2030 

if stored well. 

POINTS: 98 


RRP $34.99 

2 

Vidal Legacy Syrah 

2016 Gimblett Gravels 

Hawke’s Bay 

Fantastic bouquet of Syrah with softly spoken 

white pepper, baked raspberry, crushed black 

cherry, rose and a quiet yet powerful charm. 

No mistaking the complexity with a beguiling 

seductive core. Velvet & silk tannins, a 

backbone of acidity, vanilla, clove and a soft filé 

powder note. Long and complex finish. Drink 


POINTS: 96 


RRP $79.99 

 

1 2 



TASTING NOTES MIGHTY REDS 

Pegasus Bay Maestro 

3 

Merlot, Cabernet, Malbec 

2015 North Canterbury 

Complex bouquet of dark red fruits 

led by Doris plum, blackberry and dark 

spiced chocolate. Toasty wood spices 

of clove and baked vanilla, a steely 

haunt adds complexity and depth. Dry 

with a contrasting core of red berry 

fruits, chocolate and wood spice. Firm 

to fine tannins and warming alcohol. 

Medium+ acidity and dark fruited core. 

Coming into balance slowly. Lengthy 

fine finish. Drink from late 2019 and 

through 2029. 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $50.00 

The Landing Syrah 2015 

4 

Bay of Islands 

Dark forest berries, toasty oak with 

clove and vanilla scents, baked field 

mushrooms, black cherry, ageing meats 

and a clay gravel earth core. Dry, luscious 

and fruity with flavours of blueberry, 

pepper, blackcurrant and raspberry. 

Plenty of acidity with ripe, firm youthful 

tannins, great structure and length. The 

complexity builds as the wine opens up in 

the glass. A lovely wine, quite masculine 

with broad shoulders, weight and power. 


POINTS: 95 

Contact: www.thelandingnz.com 

RRP $39.99 

Smith & Sheth CRU 

5 

Heretaunga Syrah 2017 

Hawke’s Bay 

Varietal and immediately enticing 

bouquet of sweet oak and pepper 

spice, toasty wood and dark berries 

with raspberry and black currant. Dry, 

toasty, fruity and spicy on the palate with 

dusty wood tannins, plenty of acidity, 

medium+ weight and intensity. The 

finish is finer with dark cherry and some 

floral moments. Youthful overall though 

drinkable today and through 2026. 

POINTS: 93 

Contact: www.smithandsheth.com 

RRP $40.00 

Samuel’s Collection 

6 

Grenache Shiraz Mataro 

2016 South Australia 

Dark cherry, peppery raspberry, milk 

chocolate and chilli-spice moments, 

some baking spices and overall 

generous and welcoming bouquet. Dry, 

fruity, mild spices and generous palate 

with fine tannins and medium acidity, 

flavours of fresh red berry fruits, a hint 

of chocolate and liquorice with a dry, 

balanced and fairly lengthy finish. Well 

made, moderate complexity; drink now 


POINTS: 92 

Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com 

RRP $25.95 

Samuel’s Collection 

7 

Shiraz Cabernet 

Sauvignon 2017 South 

Australia 

Fleshy, ripe, spicy and packed fruit aromas 

of black cherry and blackberry, dark plum 

then black pepper and vanilla, violet and 

bell pepper. Dry, tense, fruity and spicy on 

the palate, with fruit and vegetal flavours 

that mirror the nose, firm youthfullytextured 

tannins and medium+ acidity. 

This wine will please many who like this 

style. Balanced , well made and ready. 


POINTS: 90 

Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com 

RRP $25.95 

Selaks The Taste 

8 

Collection Silky Smooth 

Merlot 2018 Hawke's Bay 

Aromas of Doris plums and dark 

berries, clove and cinnamon baking 

spices then toasty oak wood 

suggestions. Fruity and dry on the 

palate with a nice concentration of 

flavour from both fruit and wood 

attributes. Fine tannins, easy acidity, 

balanced even finish. A nice wine for 

many red wine drinkers to enjoy. Best 

from today and through 2021. 

POINTS: 90 


RRP $21.99 

3 4 5 6 7 8 


Ooh 

la la! 

A CLASSIC NEW ZEALAND CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON TAKES ITS ROOTS FROM THE 

HISTORIC FRENCH REGION OF BORDEAUX 

Red wines can be made as single 

variety expressions or as a 

blend of more than one variety. 

Merlot for example, or Cabernet 

Sauvignon on their own make lovely wines 

and can age well blended together; they are 

great mates. 

The classic wines of Bordeaux in France 

are accepted benchmarks, with Cabernet 

Sauvignon and Merlot-led blends of the ‘Left 

bank’ (geographically, the villages on the 

left hand side of the Gironde River) or the 

Merlot Cabernet Franc wines of the ‘Right 

bank’ (the right bank of the same river). 

These combinations have been emulated 

around the world, as it has been right here in 

New Zealand. 

Cabernet Sauvignon provides the power and 

intensity, and the wine’s backbone, with its bold 

tannins and acidity then flavours of blackberry 

and dark plum, baked bell pepper and tobacco. 

Cabernet Franc has a similar aroma, flavour and 

structure attributes plus violet, olive, dried herb 

and dark red berry as well. 

Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc with Merlot 

combined make classy, well-structured wine 

with inherent attributes for ageing. It’s also a 

great choice for food pairing, working well 

with dishes like medium-rare eye fillet or wild 

boar casserole to cheese or shepherd’s pie – or 

simply with a seven-times award-winning 

mince and cheese pie like Tauranga-based 

Patrick Lam’s! W 


TASTING NOTES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

Vidal Legacy Gimblett 

1 

Gravels Cabernet 

Sauvignon Merlot 2016 

Hawke's Bay 

Youthful, fruity and alluring bouquet 

with an intriguing textured complexity. A 

core of red and dark berry fruit flavours 

layered between finely-tuned flavours 

of oak, firm chalky tannins and abundant 

acidity. There is a dry-stone mineral layer 

alongside toasty wood spices, adding 

further complexity. A very appealing wine 

that will age well into the late 2020s. A 

great food wine option with decanting is 

highly recommended. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $69.99 

Vidal Soler Gimblett 

2 

Gravels Cabernet 

Sauvignon 2017 Hawke's Bay 

A bouquet that is slow to reveal its story. 

Aromas emerge of blackened blackberry, 

dark plum and fresh cigar tobacco. 

Marmite and meat, a sweet toasted wood 

scent accentuated with aromas of clove 

and vanilla, then dried herb and baked 

bell-pepper. A complexity unfurls after 

many minutes in glass. Youthful, tense, firm 

and dry with flavours reflective of the nose. 

Abundant fruit and wood tannins with 

plenty of acidity. Complex, lengthy finish. 

A wine that should age and harmonise in 

your cellar over the coming 3-5 years. Ideal 

drinking 2024 through 2034. 

POINTS: 96 


RRP $34.99 

Smith & Sheth CRU 

3 

Cabernets Sauvignon & 

Franc, Tempranillo Cantera 


This blended red wine from Hawke’s Bay 

fruit is led by Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc 

and Tempranillo. The nose shows off aromas 

of power and substance with a youthful core 

of dark berries, spices, tobacco and smoky 

wood. On the palate, even more youthful 

with bold tannins and acidity, plenty of 

oak, spice, raspberry, dark berries, olive and 

violets. All the elements are there for a wine 

to age and integrate over the next few years. 

Lengthy dry finish, raw energy and muscle. 

Decant for service before 2022 with best 


POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.smithandsheth.com 

RRP $60.00 

Yalumba The Signature 

4 

Cabernet Sauvignon 

Shiraz 2014 South Australia 

Dark, rich and broody bouquet with 

distinctive aromas of dark berries and 

violets layered between stylish oak scents 

of vanilla, pepper and clove, then toasted 

wood and dark chocolate. Dry, fruity 

and plump with flavours of dark berry 

fruit and wood, firm moderate tannins 

and acidity offering contrast, texture and 

complexity. Well made, totally enjoyable 

and excellent food wine. Drink now and 

through 2024. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.yalumba.com 

RRP $65.00 

Yalumba The Cigar 

5 

Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 

South Australia 

A fine wine bouquet with black and blue 

berry fruits, plum and blackberry, some 

blackcurrant and olive. Just a hint of mint, 

licorice and exotic spice. No mistaking the 

tobacco and cigar layer with its use of oak 

and tannin integration. There's also no 

mistaking the use of oak and dark wood 

spices of vanilla and clove. With fine to 

moderate tannins in abundance and 

balanced acid line this wine is very nice 

indeed. Drink now and through 2025. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.yalumba.com 

RRP $29.99 

Crafters Union Cabernet 

6 

Sauvignon 2017 

Coonawarra Australia 

Classic varietal bouquet with aromas 

of blackberry and tobacco, dark plum 

and baked bell-pepper, brown spices 

and smoky boxwood. Dry on the 

palate with medium+ weight, medium 

acidity and abundant yet fine tannins. 

Balanced and well made, drink now and 

through 2022. 

POINTS: 90 

Contact: www.craftersunionwines. 

com 

RRP $24.99 

1 2 3 4 5 6 


SWEETS 

Sweet 

stuff 

Seifried Winemakers 

1 

Collection Sweet Agnes 

Riesling 2016 Nelson 

A captivating luscious, ripe and and highly 

scented bouquet. Aromas and flavours of 

honeysuckle, sweet citrus, a core of apple, 

apricot and honey. Sweet, creamy texture 

with contrasting acid line and very long 

finish. A fantastic example of NZ Riesling at 

its very best! 

POINTS: 95 


RRP $38.00 

Askerne Late Harvest 

2 


Hawke’s Bay 

Honey, spices, baked apple tart, clove and 

brown sugar. Very sweet, very fruity, loaded 

with flavours of honey and apricot, baked 

apple tart and clove. Full-bodied and rich 

and creamy texture. Long finish, delicious. 

Drink now. 

POINTS: 94 

Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz 

RRP $22.90 

IF A WINE TASTES DRY, CAN IT STILL BE SWEET? LATE HARVEST 

GRAPES CAN OFFER A TEASE IN TASTE AS WELL AS A BEAUTIFUL 

Our palate can detect 

residual sugar in wine 

from around 3 grams 

per litre & upwards. 

This measure does not make a 

wine sweet - in fact it will still be 

dry and the sweetness often barely 

noticeable until about 9 grams. It’s 

all about balance, and what role 

acidity and alcohol play alongside 

sugar. A dry wine is considered 

‘dry’ if the wine causes the palate 

to dry out after swallowing. The 

structure of wine and how acidity 

plays a role in balance can often 

lead us into thinking a wine is dry 

when in fact it is not. 

Some German wines are 

adept at teasing the palate in this 

way. New Zealand sweet wine 

can do the same. Sweet wine is 

generally made from ‘late harvest’ 

grapes – those deliberately left 

out long after the official harvest 

time in order for extra sunshine 

SAVOURY FOOD MATCH 

to increase their sugar levels. 

They may also have been infected 

with botrytis cinerea – noble rot 

– for a wonderful honey, sweet 

apricot effect. There are some red 

varieties used, but the wines are 

generally white. 

The threshold for what defines 

a sweet wine is debatable - suffice 

to say that if you taste a wine and 

describe it as sweet, it is. However, 

one person’s measure or scale of 

sweetness will be different from 

the next. 

Strangely, many people view 

sweet wine as something to be 

kept for cheese or dessert. It's 

actually an excellent partner for 

food with a little kick of spice, paté 

and even oily fish like salmon. 

Dessert wines are a category of 

sweet wine. They should not to be 

confused with a wine that is simply 

fruity. Some sweet wines can be 

both fruity and sweet. W 

Loveblock Sweet Moscato 

3 


Fragrant, floral, fruity and very appealing 

bouquet. Blossoms, spun sugar, citrus and 

orange peel aromas. Sweet as it hits the 

palate, but immediately contrasted by 

acidity, texture and flavour. Flavours from 

the nose and palate persist with some 

warmth and freshness adding to the length 

and finish. Drink now and through 2024. 

POINTS: 91 


RRP $29.99 

1 2 3 


CAM'S BACK PAGE 

Behind the 

Velvet Curtain 

EVERY WINE LOVER HAS A SPECIAL BOTTLE THEY'LL BRING TO A DINNER PARTY... 

JUST AS LONG AS THEY DON'T HAVE TO SHARE IT 

You’ve been invited to a party – 

great! You ask the host what you can 

contribute; “Oh, just bring a bottle,” 

is the breezy response. But what is 

the ‘right’ wine in this scenario? – A robust red, 

delicate white, some bubbly, a magnum, a bottle 

from your cellar… or perhaps you just pick up 

something from the liquor shop on the way? 

Whatever your approach, please don’t buy 

cheap and cheerful, especially if you like wine 

- and the host. Go for something interesting and 

different; a wine you’ve been waiting to try. 

‘Classic’ New Zealand wine is always a good 

option. Choose varieties or brands that are well 

known, but not bottom shelf. I particularly like 

Millton Chardonnay, Palliser Estate Riesling, 

Mahi Sauvignon Blanc and Misha’s Cantata 

Pinot Noir. These wines are tasty and overdeliver 

for the price. If you really can’t decide 

then a full-bodied, rich and complex 

sparkling wine is always fantastic; 

Air New Zealand fine wines 

Quartz Reef and No.1 Family 

Estate are great examples. If 

that doesn’t sound like you, opt 

for a magnum of Rosé – not 

expensive, and it stands out. 

Selecting a nice wine to share 

at a party can be a real challenge. 

Firstly – are you supposed to share? 

I’ve seen strangers use ‘my wine’ to fill 

their glass near the top, take a slug and pretend 

all is cool. If you’re bringing a bottle to a shared 

occasion, I think you can expect other guests to 

enjoy a glass. 

If the idea of sharing your beautiful wine 

doesn’t appeal, however, and you’re getting a taxi 

home, consider presenting the host with two 

bottles. There’s more of your wine to go around, 

and you’re less likely to resent your fellow winedrinker 

for enjoying your delicious drop. 

The other option: bring two bottles, and pop 

one behind the plush velvet curtain in the living 

room when no-one is looking! Now you know 

you can enjoy your lovely wine, away from 

people who don’t appreciate wine like you do. 

However, if you do decide to use the ‘velvet 

curtain’ method, prepare for disappointment. 

I gave up on velvet curtain wine years ago, 

because despite the thrill of secrecy, hidden wine 

just never tastes quite the way I expect. 

Why? Guilt. Hiding wine at parties 

just isn’t kosha. Parties are a time 

for connecting and socialising, not 

subterfuge – where’s the fun in 

hurriedly downing your wine 

like a sordid secret? If you really 

want to savour a glass of that 

special wine, open it early, and 

pour a glass for the host or your 

mates first. After all, a really good 

wine tastes best when it’s shared. W 


Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay 


“Seductive, enticing, complex 

and glamorous...” 96 Points 

- Cameron Douglas MS

World Of Wine Winter 2019

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