World Traveller September 2019

INSPIRED BY 

ISSUE 137 | SEPTEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

Shanghai 

surprise 

In search of the 

city's soft side 

SICILY 

MENORCA 

KRAKOW 

ISTANBUL 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

Dip into luxury 

Dubai's JA Lake View Hotel heads up our list 

of this year's hottest hotel openings

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Welcome note 

If you’ve just got back from a lovely long holiday and are 

feeling blue, fear not, as we’ve got plenty of ways to get you 

out of a post-summer slump. September is a great time to 

pause and reflect on all the incredible places you’ve been 

Managing Director 

Victoria Thatcher 

Chief Creative Officer 

John Thatcher 

General Manager 

David Wade 

Managing Editor 

Faye Bartle 

faye@hotmedia.me 

Content Writers 

Habiba Azab 

Sophia Dyer 

Editorial Assistant 

Ronak Sagar 

Art Director 

Kerri Bennett 

Senior Designer 

Hiral Kapadia 

Senior Advertising Manager 

Mia Cachero 

mia@hotmedia.me 

so far this year, as well as those you’d like to tick 

off your list during the final four months of 2019. 

If you like to be among the first to check out a 

new spot, our round-up of the world’s hottest 

new hotels (page 24) is guaranteed to pique your 

interest. We’ve devoted 10 pages to giving you 

a heads up on the buzziest new openings on the 

planet, including Dubai’s new JA Lake View Hotel, 

where we shot this month’s cover (turn to page 36 

to see the full photoshoot). 

For those seeking a trip packed with art and 

culture, we’ve rounded-up some compelling trip 

options, from checking out Het HEM, the hot 

new art institute on the fringes of Amsterdam, 

to following a contemporary art trail through the 

Tuscan hills, and reacquainting yourself with the 

mind-nourishing sites of Istanbul – you're sure to 

find the perfect break for you. 

Happy travels, 

Faye Bartle 

September 2019 // Issue 137 // World's 30 best new hotels / Sicily / Kraków / Menorca 

ISSUE 137 | SEPTEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

Shanghai 

surprise 

In search of the 

city's soft side 

Win! 

A sublime stay at 

Sheraton Maldives 

Full Moon Resort 

& Spa, p83 

INSPIRED BY 

SICILY 

MENORCA 

KRAKOW 

ISTANBUL 

FIVE THINGS 

WE LEARNED 

THIS ISSUE: 

1 

There's a hot new 

art institute on the 

fringes of Amsterdam 

to discover. Check out 

what's on at Het HEM 

on p18 

2 

The Balearic island of 

Menorca has been a 

UNESCO Biosphere 

reserve for 25 years, p46 

3 

Orson Welles, D.H. 

Lawrence and Truman 

Capote are just a few 

of the creative forces 

who've been inspired 

by the beautiful Sicilian 

town of Taormina, p58 

4 

You'll find Kraków's 

oldest hotel, the Pod 

Róza, tucked away just 

off Market Square – and 

it's surprisingly budgetfriendly, 

p68 

5 

You don't need to 

invest in an expensive 

camera to achieve great 

travel photos – a few 

choice lenses for your 

smartphone can go a 

long way, p20 

Production Manager 

Muthu Kumar 

INSPIRED BY 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

Dip into luxury 

Dubai's JA Lake View Hotel heads up our list 

of this year's hottest hotel openings 

Photography credits: 

Getty Images and Phocal Media 

Reproduction in whole or in part 

without written permission from 

HOT Media is strictly prohibited. 

HOT Media does not accept 

liability for omissions or errors in 

World Traveller. 

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 

COVER IMAGE 

JA Lake View Hotel 

Find us at… 

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com 

FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME 

INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme 

TWITTER @WTravellerME 

worldtravellermagazine.com 3

JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. 

Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali. 

Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes 

from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand 

timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis. 

To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or 

email crome@anantara.com 

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com 

CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA

Alex Lake Zürich 

Contents 

September 2019 

13 

GLOBETROTTER 

regulars 

8 13 20 82 84 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

This month's go-to 

places take us from 

the natural beauty of 

Vietnam to the storied 

streets of Glasgow. 

GLOBETROTTER 

A sleek new lakeside 

opening from the 

oh-so stylish Campbell 

Grey stable heads up 

this month's brand 

new openings. 

THE KNOWLEDGE 

Visual artist and 

photographer Debbie 

Fortes shares her top 

tips to ensure you 

capture picture-perfect 

holiday memories. 

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD 

Head online for 

exclusive content and, 

better still, the chance 

to win a stay at Sheraton 

Maldives Full Moon 

Resort & Spa. 

SUITE DREAMS 

Check into the totally 

tropical Ocean View 

Pool Villa at Mandarin 

Oriental, Sanya for 

serene views of the 

South China Sea. 


CONTENTS 

features 

24 46 

BEST NEW HOTELS LOVE ISLAND 

OF 2019 

Liz Edwards has 

We've scoured the world remained resolutely 

for this year's best new underwhelmed by the 

openings to add to your Balearic Islands. Will 

must-stay list. 

Menorca be different? 

52 

SHANGHAI SURPRISE 

Known for being big, 

brash, and bustling, 

is there a softer side 

to Shanghai? Ellen 

Himelfarb finds out. 

58 

ON LOCATION 

Active volcanoes and 

sherbet for breakfast? 

Faye Bartle discovers 

many surprises under 

the Sicilian sun. 

24 

THE YEAR'S BEST NEW HOTELS 

weekends 

66 68 

CULTURE TRIP A LONG WEEKEND 

Istanbul, the city IN KRAKOW 

that straddles two Olivia Cuthbert finds 

continents, is ripe a historic city with a 

with cultural charms. modern outlook. 

74 

STAYCATIONS 

Feel in need of a break? 

We have a few more 

reasons to book a 

weekend escape. 

78 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

It's time we sent you 

packing. Choose your 

next adventure from 

our exclusive offers. 

6 worldtravellermagazine.com

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS 

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, 

reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month 

Zanzibar 

This tropical island paradise is accessible year-round, although the cooler and drier months (from June to October) 

see guaranteed sunshine reflecting off azure waters and pristine white sands. Stay on one of the incredible beaches 

and spend a day or two in Stone Town, the old part of the city that's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Discover the 

local culture, explore the winding streets and enjoy fresh seafood in abundance at the night market. 

Highlights 1 Set sail for a meal at The Rock, which enjoys a novel setting atop an oversized rock in the Indian Ocean. It's 50-minute drive from 

Stone Town. 2 Head to Jozani Forest, where you'll find Zanzibar’s rare Red Colobus monkeys. 3 Home to more than 120 tribes, Tanzania’s 

people bring the local history to life. Embark on a guided cultural tour to meet them in their home villages and hear their fascinating tales. 



Glasgow 

The number of people travelling to the Scottish Highlands is on the rise, and the vibrant city of Glasgow is the ideal 

gateway to your adventure in the country. Known for its friendly locals, epic music venues, Victorian architecture, 

and some of the best shopping in the UK, the city never skips a beat. Uncover the eclectic food and nightlife scene 

by heading to the West End at Ashton Lane, a pretty cobbled street lined with restaurants and twinkling lights. 

Highlights 1 The city centre is adorned with vibrant urban artworks – learn about the inspiration behind them on a Street Art Tour led by 

knowledgeable locals. 2 Make the 30-minute drive to the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond – a beautiful place to spend a day. 3 Visit the SEC 

Armadillo, a Glasgow landmark that hosts a fab line-up of concerts and events, including The Proclaimers performing on 14 September. 


Moscow 

A hotspot for travellers from the Middle East, Russia is proving to be a popular holiday destination this year – not 

least for its cooler temperatures. The capital, Moscow, offers a compelling mix of excellent food, exciting shopping, 

beautiful streets, and eye-catching buildings alongside an impressive art and theatre scene. No visit would be 

complete, however, without a trip to the iconic Red Square, where much of the country’s history unfolded. 

Highlights 1 Catch the world’s first fully immersive virtual-reality-enhanced exhibition 'Goncharova and Malevich: In Three Dimensions', 

running until 20 December at Tretyakov Gallery. 2 Journey south to Tsaritsyno, a vast palace complex once home to Catherine the Great. 

3 Take a stroll along Arbat, an elegant promenade lined with cafés, musical performers and stalls brimming with keepsakes. 



Hoi An 

Removed from the hustle and bustle that dominates Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, the well-preserved 15-19th century 

trading port city of Hoi An, located on Vietnam’s central coast, is known for its unique charm and delicious local 

cuisine. Explore the Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and tour the streets lined with cafés, shops, 

historic landmarks and colourful yellow-painted buildings. 

Highlights 1 Taste a famous local dish, such as banh mi – the Vietnamese take on the humble sandwich, which comes piled high with 

meat and vegetables. 2 Hire a bicycle and set off for an early morning ride around Cam Kim, a lush island that's a short ferry-hop away. 

3 Duck into one of the many tailors that line the streets and get a made-to-measure outfit whipped up in super quick time. 


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SEPTEMBER 

Globetrotter 

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Be informed, be inspired, be there 

CARIBBEAN CRUSH 

Sea views and pastel hues set the tone 

at Cobblers Cove, a powder pink allsuite 

hotel which has just thrown off the 

wraps following an incredible five-year 

makeover. Situated on the West Coast 

of Barbados, each of the 40 suites at 

the family-owned abode have been 

reinvigorated in collaboration with 

leading designer Soane Britain, making 

for an oh-so Instagrammable resort. 


GLOBETROTTER 

The view of Rome 

from Villa Borghese 

ON OUR 

RADAR 

Trendy buys and sleeps 

Take your next trip with 

a new, stylish companion 

courtesy of a Rimowa 

Essential. The brand's 

new line-up of strong 

yet lightweight 

polycarbonate 

cases are cast in 

monochrome and 

come in three sizes, 

from cabin to check in. 

WHEN IN ROME 

British-Sardinian author Sara Alexander shares her tips on how to 

do as the Romans do when visiting Italy's vibrant capital 

If we've seen Rome's 

biggest tourist 

draws, where to 

next? Head to the 

trees in the Villa 

Borghese gardens as an antidote 

to the tourist crowds. 

Where should we go for an 

authentic taste of Italy? Check 

out the nooks around where 

Romans work and live. Get to 

Testaccio market a little ahead of 

the work crowd’s lunch hour and 

try a little dish from several stalls 

– I'd recommend alla giudia, 

essentially a deep fried artichoke. 

Head to Tonnarello in Trastevere 

for homemade Roman pasta, and 

for seasonal dishes – it's a good 

idea to let the staff order for you. 

Are there any faux pas one 

should avoid when ordering? 

Don’t insult anyone by asking for 

cream in your carbonara sauce; 

true carbonara beats in the 

Roman soul! 

What should we do for some 

evening entertainment? For 

outdoor theatre and concerts, head 

to Sivano Toti Globe Theatre in the 

Villa Borghese gardens. The area 

of Trastevere is busy with people 

yearning for a vibrant boho-feel 

of Rome, so if you need nightlife 

there’s plenty there. 

Favourite Rome-inspired holiday 

read? I loved Anthony Capella’s The 

Food of Love, a Cyrano de Bergarc 

inspired plot involving all the food 

and romance you could wish for. 

Any literary inspired sights we 

should check out? The Keats- 

Shelley house is preserved 

beautifully and is a 

wonderful way to 

escape the crowds 

into another Rome. 

Sara's new novel set 

in Rome, The Last 

Concerto, is published 

on 22 August, 

harpercollins.com 

Fit for a king and queen, 

the Royal Suite at Grand 

Hills Resort, Lebanon — the 

world's largest hotel suite 

— is spread across three 

pavilions and houses 

two private pools. 

The standout suite 

is packed sky high 

with regal touches 

complete with 

antique furnishings and 

sculptural points of interest. 

Drift off with a good book 

at the Sheraton Grand 

London Park Lane with 

its new ZZZ-list library. 

Devised by a sleep 

expert and Hatchards 

booksellers, the Club 

Lounge contains a 

curated collection of 

books that have been 

scientifically proven to 

send you into the land of nod. 

Remember your stay at 

Velaa Private Island in 

Maldives by investing 

in a stunning 

piece from its 

Turtle Anniversary 

Collection. The 

designs are inspired by 

the shells of the sea creatures 

that flock there to nest and 

hatch each year. The limited 

edition pieces are available 

to purchase at the resort. 


GLOBETROTTER 


THIS MONTH'S 

NEW HOTELS 

Holiday at these hip 

new abodes 

TREASURED ISLAND 

GREECE 

Parilio 

Situated on the Greek Isle 

of Paros, this Cycladic 

retreat pays homage to 

the surrounding rocky 

formations and beaches 

with relaxing neutral tones 

throughout. However, 

the sanctuary-esque 

swimming pools are the 

standout feature. 

LAKESIDE VISTAS 

ZÜRICH 


State-of-the-art architecture 

and modern furnishings give 

each of the 44 studios and 

penthouses here a stylish 

feel quintessential of the 

Campbell Grey brand. Do as 

the locals do and take a bike 

to explore the lakeside and 

nearby local cycling trails. 

CITY LIGHTS 

THAILAND 

Avani Sukumvit Bangkok 

Marrying bustling city vibes 

with a good night's sleep, 

this funky hotel is just 

the ticket for a veritably 

cosmopolitan getaway. 

With a shopping mall 

beneath it, be sure to bring 

an empty suitcase. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X CAESARS BLUEWATERS DUBAI 

MAKE THE EMPIRE 

YOUR PLAYGROUND 

Stay like a Caesar, with a holiday fit for an emperor at 

Caesars Bluewaters Dubai 

From its Las Vegas beginnings to its 

equally decadent landing in Dubai, 

Caesars Bluewaters Dubai brings all the 

glamour and excess of the Roman Empire 

to a 21st century reception in its resorts. 

Vacationers can opt for indulging in 

unparalleled luxury offerings at Caesars 

Palace Bluewaters Dubai or signing up 

for the ultimate family-affair at Caesars 

Resort Bluewaters Dubai. 

LEGENDARY LUXURY AT 

CAESARS PALACE 

Discerning travellers and romantic 

getaway seekers should check into an 

ocean view room at Caesars Palace where 

sleek contemporary meets Romanesque 

embellishments and modern fittings. 

Spend the day soaking up the sun by 

the stunning pools at Cove Beach while 

lively beats promise an afternoon of fun. 

Next, dine at multi-Michelin-starred 

chef, Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen 

for an immersive culinary experience. 

After dark, party at Havana Social Club 

where distilled sugarcane drinks and 

Latin beats keep the party going all night 

long. A stay at Caesars Palace wouldn’t be 

complete without some royal pampering 

at Qua Spa, where Japanese technologies 

and luxurious treatments sooth your 

mind and body. 

FAMILY FUN AT CAESARS RESORT 

Rome wasn’t built in a day, so take a 

break from the daily grind with the kids 

in tow and head to Caesars Resort. The 

Empire Club keeps little ones busy with 

daytime games and aqua adventures. 

Teens will be equally pleased as ROAM 

proves the ultimate teen hangout with 

various gaming zones and virtual reality. 

Meanwhile, parents will enjoy relaxing 

on the private beach before sitting down 

to an alfresco affair at Cleo’s Table with 

a menu bursting with Mediterranean 

flavours. If modern Japanese is more your 

scene, dine at rooftop restaurant Paru, 

taking in the panoramic views. Don't 

miss a show at The Rotunda, this new 

entertainment venue hosts a line-up of 

Vegas style shows. 

Until September 30th, save 20% on your 

stay, with breakfast. Families can enjoy 

50% off on the second room booked and 

tickets to a park at Dubai Parks & Resorts. 

Plus, all guests get complimentary access 

to Laguna Waterpark. Book now at 

caesars.com/dubai 


GLOBETROTTER 

© Quentley Barbara, Hesus, 

2019. Photo by Cassander 

Eeftinck Schattenkerk 

© Michel Blossier for 

Panzano Arte 

AMSTERDAM VS TUSCANY 

We shine a light on two artsy destinations competing for your attention this month 

EXHIBITION 

Opening on 20 September, the second chapter at the 

Het HEM – the hot new art institute on the fringes of the 

city – will see composer Nicolas Jaar create a piece of 

experimental music and accompanying artwork inspired 

by the venue's history. 

EXHIBITION 

View contemporary art in the rolling Tuscan hills at the 

Panzano Arte contemporary art showcase in Panzano. 

Running until 18 September, the trail features 30 sculptures 

by French artist Nathalie Decoster. The large bronze works 

explore concepts of the human condition. 

DON'T 

MISS 

Conversations 

by the fire in the 

Living Room 

WHY WE 

LOVE IT 

Each exhibition 

is totally unique 

and immersive 

WHY WE 

LOVE IT 

Ideal for teaming a 

love of art and the 

great outdoors 

DON'T 

MISS 

Enjoying a meal at 

Antica Macelleria 

Cecchini 

THE VENUE 

A former ammunition factory, Het HEM utilises its 10,000 

square metre space to host visual art exhibitions named 

'chapters'. The creative venue showcases modern concept 

art, the first chapter of which saw the exhibition, 'Can't be 

greedy...You gotta take some, and leave some' explore the 

concept of culture with a live boxing gala. 

THE VENUE 

Nestled between Florence and Sienna, the trail begins in 

the heart of the charming village of Panzano, and runs 

through the surrounding rural landscape before leading 

into four vineyards. Besides the impressive art structures, 

the rolling Chianti hills are a beautiful sight to behold in 

their own right. 

WHILE YOU'RE THERE 

The Golden Age saw many acclaimed Dutch artists residing 

in Amsterdam. Today, the likes of Rembrandt and Van Gogh's 

work lives on, attracting art lovers from all over the world. The 

Rijksmuseum holds the country's largest collection of art and 

artefacts, while the Van Gogh Museum is purely dedicated to 

the artist's post-impressionist paintings. 

STAY 

A 10-minute drive from the Het HEM, in the town of Zaandam, 

is the quirky Inntel Hotel, where the fun higgledy-piggledy 

facade of the building sets its upbeat feel. For something 

a little more central, the Art'otel Amsterdam blends great 

rooms and a trendy art gallery. 

WHILE YOU'RE THERE 

Along with a slew of traditional shops and eateries, the main 

square in Panzano, Piazza Bucciarell, is host to the Aprilante 

market on the first Sunday of every month. It's where over 

100 local artisans flock to sell their goods. While exploring the 

quaint mediaeval charm of the village, stop off at Jan Praet 

Art Gallery to view some local art. 

STAY 

Amid the stunning Chianti landscapes, 16th-century Villa 

Le Barone is a charming boutique hotel with a heated saltwater 

pool. If you're staying in nearby Florence, bed down at 

Porcellino Gallery Art Boutique; each of the decadent rooms 

are kitted out with artworks and luxury finishings. 


KNOW-HOW 

The Knowledge 

HOW TO... 

Take frame-worthy travel photographs 

Dubai-based visual artist and photographer Debbie Fortes (@debbiefortes) 

shares her tips on capturing picture-perfect shots of your travels 

CHOOSE THE RIGHT 

EQUIPMENT 

If you’re a complete beginner, 

instead of lugging about a large 

and complicated camera, keep it 

simple by purchasing some lenses 

for your smartphone. “I recommend 

the BlackEye Lens Pro Kit G4 as its 

fisheye, wide-angle and telephoto 

lens options offer a lot of choice 

and therefore shots,” says Debbie. 

If you’re in the market for a camera 

perfect for travel but are fairly new 

to photography, look 

for something lightweight and easy 

to use, such as the Canon Powershot 

SX740. It has a long lens zoom that's 

perfect for capturing shots from a 

distance, if you can't get close. 

Mleiha desert in Sharjah 

Photo: Debbie Fortes 

LOCATE THE HOTSPOTS 

Prep your shots by listing the places 

you’re going to visit and would like 

to capture in advance. “I use Google 

Maps to plot the locations I will be 

photographing and, from there, I 

begin to plan what kind of shots I 

would like to achieve,” says Debbie. 

By doing some research beforehand 

you can get an understanding of 

the photography clichés that pop 

up often in each spot and instead 

look for ways to put your own spin 

on the shot. 

FIND A LOCAL GUIDE 

A good way to find unusual 

destinations and non-touristy areas 

to photograph is by linking up with 

like-minded people. “I do this by 

following the Instagram accounts of 

photographers who are based in the 

place I’m visiting. Quite often, people 

are very friendly and if you tell them 

you’re visiting they will take you 

to the ‘hidden gems’ of their city,” 

says Debbie. 

GET THERE BEFORE THE REST 

“A simple tip that can make the world 

of difference to your photographs 

is waking up early,” says Debbie. 

Especially when visiting popular 

tourist attractions, getting there 

before the crowds descend means 

you're less likely to have people 

walking in front of your camera. Plus, 

you'll have more time to take pictures 

from different angles. “What's more, 

the lighting first thing in the morning 

is soft, meaning it’s easier to get a 

perfectly lit shot without shadows 

casting over your focus.” 

SET UP THE SHOT 

“Turning on the grid (you can do 

this on phone and digital cameras), 

will help guide you when composing 

images by showing you how the 

photograph is divided up between, 

buildings and the sky, for example,” 

says Debbie. “It will also help you to 

make sure your images are straight 

when taking photos of architecture 

or structures,” she adds. You can 

use your creative instincts to think 

outside the box. When it comes to 

composing shots, for example, try 

shooting a famous landmark through 

the trees for a different perspective. 

ADD SOME HUMAN INTEREST 

As the saying goes, a picture 

speaks a thousand words, so make 

it interesting. You can add a new 

level of storytelling into your travel 

photographs by including people in 

your shots. “If you’re out and about 

during the day and spot someone 

doing something you think would 

make a great photo, then don’t be 

afraid to ask. Most of the time people 

are quite happy to pose for you – 

just be sure to ask before you click,” 

says Debbie. When you return from 

your trip, the human element of your 

photos will provide an engaging 

talking point for family and friends 

who will be intrigued to know more. 

debbiefortes.com 


Tropical bliss 

Thai-inspired escapism with a sprinkle of Asian flavour 

is guaranteed at this beachfront getaway 

Why take a seven-hour flight to Thailand 

when you’ve got a Thai paradise right on 

your doorstep? Scattered across the east 

crescent of Palm Jumeirah, Anantara The 

Palm Dubai Resort exudes a truly unique 

blend of charm and comfort. Boasting the 

UAE’s only over water villas, the luxury hotel 

draws inspiration from its Thai heritage that 

melds effortlessly with its Arabian backdrop. 

Friendly Thai hospitality starts the minute 

you arrive as a lady in traditional clothing 

welcomes you with a warm 'sawasdee ka' 

("hello" in Thai), and a delicious tom yum drink. 

With endless vistas, luxury prevails at 

this tropical retreat. Take your pick from 

Maldivian-style Over Water Villas floating 

over the sea with glass panels that offer a 

sneak peek into the wonders of the sea; Beach 

Pool Villas where you can swim a lap in your 

private infinity pool and enjoy direct views of 

the sea, or Lagoon Access Rooms with steps 

straight into the Palm’s inner lagoon. 

Thrill seekers are in for a treat as there's 

a plethora of water activities to choose 

from. Whether it's waterskiing, kayaking or 

wakeboarding, plunge into an exhilarating 


WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT 

Enjoy a secluded romantic dinner 

courtesy of Dining by Design 

Inside a Garden Pool Villa 

afternoon on the Gulf’s crystalline waters. 

Those who prefer calmer currents can enjoy 

a scenic trip around Palm Jumeirah onboard 

the city’s first Thai long tail boat. Revel in the 

beauty of natural lush fronds and mesmerising 

sea life while you admire the city’s skyline. 

After a long day out and about, indulge in a 

pampering spa retreat package that will spoil 

you rotten. Book now and choose between 

classic Swedish techniques, exotic Arabian 

treatments, energising Thai pressure point 

and stretching, or the Eastern and Western 

blend of signature massages that’s specifically 

tailored to your needs. 

Keep those hunger pangs at bay and start 

your day fresh with a scrumptious spread 

of worldwide delicacies at Crescendo's 

international buffet or stop by Revo Café 

for morning caffeine hits and refreshing 

fruit smoothies. The Beach House offers 

Mediterranean fare with impressive sunset 

views while Aussie steakhouse Bushman’s 

challenges adventurous epicureans with its 

daring take on Australian cuisine – kangaroo 

sirloin is among the menu highlights. 

Alternatively, world-class Asian dining 

can be found in the Mekong Restaurant 

and with their interactive cooking class, 

Spice Spoons, you can learn all the tricks 

you need to cook world-famous Thai dishes 

bursting with exotic flavours. For a special 

treat, Dining by Design lures romantics 

with its delectable set menu and dazzling 

atmosphere. Let candles light your way to 

your private table on the sand and enjoy a 

bespoke dining experience by selecting from 

connoisseur menus or collaborating with a 

personal chef to recreate all your favourites. 

Whichever way you choose to spend your 

time, you'll leave with wonderful memories 

to take back home. 

To find out more, call +971 4 567 8888 or 

visit anantara.com 


Lelewatu Resort Sumba 

The 

WORLD’S 

hottest 

NEW HOTELS 

This year has seen a bumper crop of brilliant new hotels. 

From tropical island retreats to city hotspots, here are 30 of 

the buzziest new openings from all corners of the globe 


HOT SUITE NEW SPOTS HOTELS 2019 


The Middle East & Africa 

JA LAKE VIEW HOTEL, UAE 

Opening on 22 September, JA Lake 

View Hotel completes the trio of 

properties that comprise the sprawling 

JA The Resort in Jebel Ali. There are 

348 rooms and suites, each with a 

sunny glass balcony, along with three 

pools and four culinary concepts, 

including an Indian restaurant helmed 

by Michelin-starred chef Vikas Khanna. 

The best part? You can use all the 

facilities of the wider resort, which 

means you’ll have 25 restaurants and 

bars, as well as a mind-boggling menu 

of activities to choose from. Turn to 

page 36 for more. 

LEPOGO LODGES, SOUTH AFRICA 

High on a clifftop overlooking the 

48,000-hectare Lapalala Wilderness 

Reserve, Noka Camp is the first 

of two new properties at Lepogo 

Lodges. All five villas have glass 

fronts, heated infinity pools and 

outdoor ‘sky beds’ with glass floors, 

providing sensational views of the 

ravine. The décor, meanwhile, is 

sleek and subtle, with light wood and 

sunken baths. With luck, you'll likely 

spot the Big Five during game drives, 

water safaris and luxury sleep-outs, 

while yoga and spa treatments round 

off your stay. 

SINGITA KWITONDA LODGE, RWANDA 

Fans of Singita’s luxury safari lodges 

can now add gorilla-trekking to their 

East African itinerary, with the opening 

of its latest lodge in the spectacular 

Volcanoes National Park. Treading 

lightly on 72 hectares of wetlands 

and meadows, Kwitonda’s eight suites 

and one villa have fireplaces and 

heated plunge pools and incorporate 

local volcanic rock, river stone and 

handmade tiles. Besides gorillas, you 

can also visit Nyungwe National Park 

which is home to a dozen primate 

species, including chimpanzees and 

colobus monkeys. 

LEKKERWATER BEACH LODGE, 

SOUTH AFRICA 

On fragrant fynbos-covered cliffs 

above the Indian Ocean, this ecoconscious 

lodge in the De Hoop 

Nature Reserve, 240km east of Cape 

Town, offers solitude in spades. 

There are seven rooms decorated in 

earthy tones and marine blues, with 

floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking 

a long stretch of deserted beach. 

You can go hiking and caving, 

watch dolphins frolic and spot 

Cape vultures and caracals. But 

the highlight is shore-based whalewatching; 

from July to November, 

you’ll see hundreds of Southern 

Right whales and their calves. 


HOT NEW HOTELS 

WILDERNESS SAFARIS JAO 

CAMP, BOTSWANA 

After undergoing a total transformation, 

Wilderness Safaris’ new camp in 

the Okavango Delta mixes style and 

sustainability to stellar effect. Run 

entirely on solar power, the camp 

has five tented suites with private 

plunge pools, outdoor showers and 

evaporative cooling systems instead of 

AC, while two villas also come with a 

private guide, chef and butler. Morning 

and evening game drives provide 

fantastic opportunities to spot the Big 

Five, ideally interspersed with glassbottomed 

canoe trips and pampering 

spa treatments. 

WALDORF ASTORIA, DIFC, UAE 

Although a few big-name hotel brands 

now have a home within Dubai’s 

International Financial Centre, none 

are as grand as Waldorf Astoria’s — a 

soaring, lavishly decorated homage to 

city titans Rome and New York 

of the '60s, a golden age of travel 

when the term jet-set was born. Aimed 

very much at the jetsetters of today, 

beyond the obligatory steakhouse for 

dealmakers, there’s more than enough 

to gratify leisure guests too, including 

a sky-high, private-access spa and 

made-for-Instagram rooftop lounge. 

This image: Wilderness Safaris Jao Camp 

Below: Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai 

MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA, 

DUBAI, UAE 

This beachfront resort marked 

the welcome arrival of Mandarin 

Oriental in the region. The 

256 rooms, most with private 

balconies and terraces, are 

decorated in muted tones and 

accents of turquoise or orange. 

Relax by the pool — there are six 

to choose from — and stroll to 

the low-lit spa, which boasts a 

hammam, indoor vitality pools, 

dry saunas and steam rooms. In 

the evening, choose from a halfdozen 

places to eat and drink, 

including a warayaki-style (strawsmoked) 

Japanese steakhouse. 



InterContinental Maldives 

Maamunagau Resort 

Indian Ocean 

ANANTARA MAURITIUS 

RESORT, MAURITIUS 

Anantara makes its Mauritius debut 

next month near Blue Bay, a largely 

undeveloped spot with a vibrant coral 

reef and some of the island’s best 

snorkelling and diving. Design-wise, the 

164-room resort is set among tropical 

gardens and makes use of natural 

elements such as volcanic stone and 

driftwood, while a 30-metre chlorinefree 

swimming pool wraps around the 

low-rise property. Multiple restaurants 

will make use of the incredible local 

bounty, while the signature spa will 

include indigenous therapies. 

BAGLIONI RESORT MALDIVES 

At first glance, this private island resort 

in the Dhaalu Atoll looks like your 

traditional Maldivian paradise: turquoise 

waters, powdery sands, thatched villas. 

But Baglioni’s subtle Italian style — 

Frette linens, sunset aperitivi, topnotch 

Italian cuisine — adds a touch of 

cosmopolitan flair. There are 96 villas, 

some over water, others lining the 

beach or tucked among swaying palm 

trees, with secluded decks and outdoor 

showers. Once you’ve settled in, hit the 

dive centre or try a couples' massage in 

the open-air spa. 

RAFFLES MALDIVES 

MERADHOO, MALDIVES 

In the remote Gaafu Alifu Atoll, close 

to the equator, Raffles has opened 

its first resort in the Maldives — and 

it was worth the wait. The enormous, 

thatched-roof villas — 21 perched on the 

sand and 16 over water — all come with 

muslin-draped four-poster beds, deep 

soaking tubs, private pools and Raffles’ 

legendary butler service. Enjoy lazy 

days snorkelling alongside the resident 

marine biologist, or being pampered 

in the overwater spa. Evenings, 

meanwhile, are devoted to sunset dhoni 

cruises and candle-lit dinners. 

LUX* NORTH MALÉ ATOLL, MALDIVES 

A short speedboat-ride from Malé, 

this mould-breaking resort favours 

two-storey, white-washed duplexes 

INTERCONTINENTAL MALDIVES 

MAAMUNAGAU RESORT 

This newcomer is set within the 

Maldives’ largest natural lagoon 

in the Raa Atoll, a unique marine 

sanctuary teeming with manta 

rays. When you’re not snorkelling 

alongside these gentle giants, there’s 

an overwater spa with a resident 

Chinese medicine practitioner to 

complement the menu of facials 

and massages, and six restaurants 

ranging from tapas to teppanyaki. 

Meanwhile, the 81 beach, lagoon 

or overwater villas all come with 

ocean views, terraces, pools and 

complimentary daily perks including 

breakfast, afternoon tea and 

obligatory sundowners. 

over thatched-roof villas. There are 67 

in total, some over water and all with 

private pool, roof terrace and bathroom 

as big as the bedroom. The cool, South 

Beach-vibe continues in the restaurants 

and lounges — think Peruvian-Japanese 

cuisine, resident DJ and underwater 

aquarium. Daily routines revolve 

around snorkelling with turtles, blissful 

treatments in the overwater spa, a 

spot of yoga or tai chi, and toes-in-thesand 

dinners. 


NEW HOTELS 

Nukutepipi 

Australia & the South Pacific 

INTERCONTINENTAL HAYMAN ISLAND 

RESORT, AUSTRALIA 

Two years after Cyclone Debbie’s 

destruction, and following a multimillion-dollar 

refurbishment, this private 

island resort is once again welcoming 

guests to the Whitsundays. There are 

166 rooms, suites and villas spread 

across three distinct wings, including an 

all-new beach house with private pool, 

three new restaurants and an 11-room 

spa. Intersperse your pool days with 

trips to the Great Barrier Reef. 

Lelewatu Resort Sumba, Indonesia 

NUKUTEPIPI, FRENCH POLYNESIA 

Go totally off-grid at this exclusiveuse 

retreat in the remote Tuamotu 

archipelago, 750km southeast of 

Tahiti. With the sound of lapping waves 

as your soundtrack, the tiny island 

shines for its staggering beauty and 

total seclusion. There are 16 barefootchic 

villas and bungalows, while the 

turquoise-hued lagoon is an invitation 

for adventure. Take your pick of 

activities on land and in water, with staff 

on hand to cater to your every whim. 


The Americas 

Puro Vik 

PURO VIK, CHILE 

Two hours south of the capital 

Santiago, Chile’s newest luxury 

retreat features 19 glass-walled 

bungalows overlooking the vinecovered 

Millahue Valley. Each 

villa is outfitted in distinctive 

style, with themes ranging from 

Japanese to Pop Art, while al 

fresco bathtubs offer views of 

the valley and Andes Mountains 

beyond. You may never feel 

the urge to leave — though the 

adjoining sister property features 

two Chilean restaurants, an 

infinity pool, luxurious spa and 

activities like yoga, hiking and 

horseback riding. 

EQUINOX, USA 

In a 92-storey skyscraper in New York’s 

newly constructed Hudson Yards 

district, this buzzed-about hotel is the 

first from America’s most exclusive 

fitness club (where the likes of Kim and 

Kanye work out). Join a SoulCycle class 

in the 5,600-square-metre gym, then 

recover in a cryotherapy chamber in 

the spa, or opt for a restorative vitamin 

IV-drip. The 212 rooms and suites, 

meanwhile, are designed to encourage 

sleep, with precise levels of quiet, 

darkness and temperature, and a minibar 

packed with healthy snacks and 

ample supplements. 

EDEN ROCK, CARIBBEAN 

Perched atop a rocky promontory 

surrounded by sandy beaches, Eden 

Rock has been an A-list favourite 

since the 1950s. Following a two-year, 

Hurricane Irma-induced renovation, 

the St Barths icon will reopen on 

November 20. All rooms have been 

redesigned in elegant, breezy style 

— plump for the new Pippa suite with 

private pool — while a new spa and 

beach bar add to the hotel’s already 

considerable charms. Regulars, 

meanwhile, can relax knowing Jean- 

Georges Vongerichten still presides 

over the food. 



NOBU HOTEL LOS CABOS, MEXICO 

On an idyllic stretch of the Baja 

Peninsula, chef Nobu Matsuhisa 

and actor Robert De Niro’s latest 

hotspot is perhaps their finest yet. 

The vibe is contemporary Japanese 

minimalism — think Zen-like rooms 

with traditional teak tubs and shoji 

sliding doors — while pops of colour 

and those Pacific Ocean panoramas 

cement the sense of place. Tee off 

at the neighbouring Tiger Woodsdesigned 

course, unwind in the spa 

stocked with Natura Bissé products, 

and dine on the ever-excellent 

miso-glazed black cod at the 

signature restaurant. 

ISLAS SECAS, PANAMA 

On the search for for total seclusion? 

You’ll be hard-pressed to top this ecoresort 

in Panama’s Gulf of Chiriqui. 

Part of a 14-isle archipelago owned 

by a billionaire conservationist, there 

are just nine casitas secreted among 

the lush vegetation, with private pools 

and thatched-roof cabanas offering 

unbeatable ocean views. Guests get 

full run of the islands, 13 of which are 

uninhabited, so you can fill your days 

kayaking, snorkelling and diving, whalewatching, 

bird-spotting and fishing, 

or just hanging out on one of those 

blissfully deserted beaches. 

Kachi Lodge 

ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH, USA 

Spread across 6.5-hectares of 

pristine beachfront near beautiful 

Santa Barbara, this resort mixes 

relaxed Cali charm with discrete 

Rosewood luxury. All 161 rooms have 

outdoor terraces, while some are 

perched directly on the sand — 

a real rarity in southern California. 

Start your day with yoga on the 

beach, laze by the cabana-lined 

pools (one for families, another for 

adults) and stock up on goodies 

from Gwyneth Paltrow’s in-resort 

Goop boutique. The Italianinfluenced 

Caruso’s, meanwhile, is 

the pick of the resort’s stellar line up 

of seven restaurants. 

KACHI LODGE, BOLIVIA 

Until recently, exploring Bolivia’s 

Salar de Uyuni meant staying in 

modest digs in a nearby town. 

That’s all changed with the advent 

of this collection of nine glamping 

domes pitched right on the world’s 

largest salt flat. Kitted out with 

plush beds and colourful Bolivian 

artwork, the pods have clear panels 

for star-gazing and wood-burning 

stoves (you are, after all, at 

altitude). Best of all, there’s 

inventive cuisine from Gustu, 

founded in the capital La Paz in 

2013 by Noma’s Claus Meyer. 

Nobu Hotel Los Cabos 


YOUR GUIDE TO DUBAI’S 

MUST-HAVE VISITOR EXPERIENCES 

www.dxbcityexpert.com 

5

Europe 

ANDRONIS ARCADIA, GREECE 

Santorini is famous for its sublime 

sunsets and there’s no better place 

to soak up the view than from this 

all-suite hotel in the island’s north. 

The 53 sunset-facing suites all have 

private pools and are decorated in 

linen, rattan and wood. When you’re 

ready to mingle, nab a floating day 

bed by the buzzy infinity pool and 

its resident DJ, and take your pick of 

three restaurants. Be sure to book a 

treatment in the spa, too — it’s the 

largest in town. 

HOTEL CHÂTEAU DU 

GRAND-LUCÉ, FRANCE 

With just 17 rooms and 80 acres to 

explore, this fairy-tale chateau in 

the Loire Valley is as grand as they 

come. Built in 1760 and surrounded 

by its original stone wall, the chateau 

has been exquisitely restored: rooms 

feature soaring ceilings and parquet 

oak floors and are awash with gilt 

furniture, silk damask walls, canopy 

beds and clawfoot baths. Enjoy sunny 

strolls through the classical gardens, 

inspired by Versailles, picnics in the 

white oak forest and dreamy days by 

the pool. 

BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL, UK 

Occupying a handful of Queen 

Anne-style townhouses in London’s 

Chelsea, this handsome hotel has 

been a playground for socialites and 

bohemians since 1887. Following a 

top-to-toe makeover, there are now 

54 supremely stylish rooms — mostly 

suites — with hardwood floors, velvet 

headboards and contemporary 

art by up-and-coming female 

artists. When you’re not shopping or 

museum-hopping, take afternoon tea 

in the lounge, dine on modern British 

cuisine in chef Adam Handling’s 

eponymous restaurant and play 

tennis in the private gardens. 

HOTEL DE LA VILLE, ITALY 

Hotelier Rocco Forte’s latest property 

sits atop the Spanish Steps, providing 

stellar views over Rome’s terracotta- 


tiled rooftops. The historic 18thcentury 

palazzo houses 104 rooms 

and suites with jewel-toned velvets, 

rich woods and marble bathrooms. 

Exceptional Italian cuisine is on 

offer in the central courtyard or 

chic ground-floor trattoria (but of 

course you’ll want to head to the 

rooftop terrace for sundowners first). 

The spa, meanwhile, has a wealth 

of treatments infused with Sicilian 

botanicals, along with a sauna, salt 

room and hydro pool. 

MONKEY ISLAND ESTATE, UK 

Housed in two 18th-century 

buildings in the picturesque village 

of Bray-on-Thames, this former 

aristocratic fishing retreat is now 

a contemporary country manor. 

The 30 Art Deco-styled rooms 

have marshmallow beds and river 

views, while the Wedgewood Suite 

dials up the drama with woodpanelled 

walls, ornate plasterwork 

and moody oil paintings. Indulge 

in the floating spa, a custom-made 

canal boat moored along the 

bank, or cruise in the vintage-style 

launch to Bray’s three-star gastrotemples, 

the Waterside Inn and The 

Fat Duck. 

Monkey Island Estate 



Asia 

SIX SENSES BHUTAN, BHUTAN 

In the little-explored Himalayan 

kingdom, Six Senses is creating a 

bucket-list circuit of five intimate 

lodges in the country’s most beautiful 

valleys. Lodges have already opened 

in Paro, close to the clifftop Tiger’s 

Nest; amid the rice paddies of 

Punakha; and in the capital Thimphu, 

with the remaining set to launch later 

this year in Gangtey and Bumthang. 

Each one weaves different elements 

of its surroundings into its design, 

but you can expect heart-stopping 

views, cultural excursions and serene 

wellness experiences. 

Six Senses Bhutan 

CAPELLA BANGKOK, THAILAND 

Bangkok is famous for its nonstop 

energy, so this new arrival 

on the east bank of the Chao 

Phraya River provides a welcome 

change of pace. Capella’s 101 

suites and riverfront villas feel 

like posh cocoons. The soothing 

ambiance continues in the spa 

with traditional Thai therapies, 

while youngsters can sign up for a 

‘Little Monk’ mindfulness session. 

Another surprise: the signature 

restaurant is Mediterranean, 

overseen by Michelin-starred chef 

Mauro Colagreco. 

Anantara Desaru 

Coast Resort 

ANANTARA DESARU COAST 

RESORT, MALAYSIA 

Desaru Coast is Malaysia’s rising 

star resort, thanks to its white-sand 

beaches, family-friendly water 

park and Ernie Els-designed golf 

courses. Opening next month, this 

resort has 123 rooms and villas, 

some with plunge pools, in calming 

neutrals and dark wood. The 

sparkling South China Sea is never 

far away, whether you're lounging 

by the infinity pool or feasting 

on Malaysian and Thai cuisine in 

the open-air restaurants. Jaded 

travellers, meanwhile, will love 

the signature spa and tailored 

wellness programmes. 

LELEWATU RESORT SUMBA, 

INDONESIA 

Forget Bali. Sumba, an hour’s flight 

south-east, is the place to go for 

incredible white-sand beaches, 

minus the crowds. On a cliff 

overlooking the ocean, Lelewatu 

Resort has 27 thatched-roof villas 

spread across 10-hectares of lush 

rainforest, with four-poster beds and 

beautiful handwoven ikat fabrics. 

Recline on muslin-draped daybeds 

by your private pool, and stroll to the 

spa to be gently pummelled by the 

expert masseuses. In the evening, 

sample the catch of the day in the 

open-air restaurant. 


CREATE 

SPECIAL 

MOMENTS 

WITH US. 

Standing tall in the heart of 

Dubai Marina, featuring 

incomparable panoramic views 

of the city, combine the best 

of all worlds with luxurious 

accommodation, three 

contemporary dining 

destinations and a blissful 

caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa. 

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES 

KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET 

DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE 

T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM 

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites 

@marriottharbour

Step 

into 

style 

JA Lake View Hotel is this year's most 

anticipated hotel opening in the Middle East 

— and we just couldn't wait to get inside. 

Prior to its grand unveiling this month, this 

sustainability-focused, design-driven, chic 

retreat was all ours for a day. Fancy a sneak 

peek? Then come on in... 

ART DIRECTOR: KERRI BENNETT 

PHOTOGRAPHER: SABRINA-RYNAS, MMG ARTIST 

These pages: Natural light pours through space-age-style 

skylights to bathe the hotel's lobby in sunshine. An elevated 

walkway leads you here; a spectacular, stylish atrium 

bestowed with instantly calming views of the golf course 

and sea beyond. 

Dress: Kristina Fidelskaya 

Belt: Max Mara 

Bag: Tod’s 

Suitcase: Rimowa 



XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

These pages and next: 

The hotel's magnificent One 

Bedroom Terrace Suite brings the 

tranquillity of its lush surrounds 

indoors, with spacious living and 

dining areas, double vanities, a 

walk-in shower and a large bathtub 

begging you to relax in impeccably 

styled surrounds. It's the outside, 

though, that fully defines this suite: 

a jaw-dropping terrace overlooking 

the verdant fairways of the resort's 

own golf course. 


Opposite: 

Dress: Elisabetta Franchi 

This page: 

Dress: Max Mara 

Earrings: tutuskurniati.com 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Top and skirt: Bambah 

Earrings: Elisabetta Franchi 

Shoes: By Far 

Watch: Baume and Mercier 


In addition to catering to families with a crèche, CoolZone 

Kids Club, and children's pool, the hotel boasts an adultsonly 

pool – the perfect place at which to soak up the 

peaceful surrounds with a cooling, crafted mocktail. 

Dress: tutuskurniati.com 

Swimsuit: tutuskurniati.com 

Sunglasses: Alaïa 


The plush One Bedroom Terrace Suite, which 

can accommodate up to four guests, houses 

myriad amenities to make a stay here extra 

comfortable. Tempting though it will prove, 

don't climb into its sumptuous bed until 

you've had dinner at the hotel's gastronomic 

gem, Kinara – the all-new Indian restaurant 

concept from Michelin-starred Vikas Khanna. 

JA Lake View Hotel forms part of JA The Resort, 

which is comprised of three unique hotels that 

combine to offer guests over one million square 

metres of first-class experiences, including more 

than 40 thrilling activities for all the family to 

enjoy and a championed culinary line-up of some 

25 outlets and a trio of Michelin-starred chefs. It 

is Dubai's largest experience resort. 


Dress: Max Mara 

Earrings: tutuskurniati.com 

Sandals: Elisabetta Franchi 

Suitcase: Rimowa 

Stylist: Jade Chilton 

Hair and make-up: Melanie, MMG Artist 

Model: Katrina, MMG Artist 


worldtravellermagazine.com 

Your passport to the Middle East's first fully 

bookable travel inspiration website 

Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine 

by heading online to read more inspirational and 

exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute 

hotel and holiday features 

Dream Read Click Book

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

View of Taormina from 

Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea 

Postcards 

Stories from journeys 

far and wide 

MENORCA p46 

SHANGHAI p52 

SICILY p58 


These pages: The pristine 

Cala Macarella cove 

Love Island 

Unimpressed by its busier Balearic siblings, 

Liz Edwards gives Menorca a whirl. It’s beautiful, 

it’s below-the-radar and it’s a breeze to get to. 

Could this be the isle to finally win her heart? 


MENORCA 

I 

can already hear the 

gasps of horror at the 

confession I have to make, 

but here goes anyway: I’ve 

never really ‘got’ the Balearics. 

Like any good holidaymaker, 

I’ve tried, but somehow we just 

haven’t clicked. These islands 

should have been perfect dates for 

a committed Hispanophile like me, 

but Mallorca — beautiful, yes, its 

capital a charmer — had felt a bit 

well-trodden. (Or well-pedalled; blame 

the men, mid-Lycra-crisis, clogging 

the roads with their bikes.) Ibiza was 

fun, sure, but the clubs and the yoga 

all seemed a bit sceney to me. I’d not 

even made it to Formentera, put off by 

flight ’n’ ferry faff. It certainly wasn’t 

that I disliked the Balearics, and rave 

reviews from friends and colleagues 

made me reluctant to write off the 

islands altogether, but what can you 

do when there’s no chemistry? Well, 

apparently, you, er, see if you’ll hit it off 

any better with sibling number three. 

Would Menorca be The One? I very 

much hoped so, because I’d signed 

up the family — husband, son and 

me — to 10 days’ holiday there. 

Those rave reviews and relentless 

enthusiasm had persuaded me to 

give the Balearics another chance. 

And I must say, between optimism 

and actual research, my expectations 

were dangerously high: it sounded 

like a more natural, sleepier sort of 

place than its neighbours, with little 

nightlife, fewer visitors and beaches as 

good as you’d expect on an island that’s 

been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve 

for 25 years. There were historic twin 

cities to explore, Brit-influenced 

Mahoń and Italianate Ciutadella. It was 

greener than arid Ibiza, and smaller 

than Mallorca (45 minutes’ drive end 

to end) so we could move around, 

doing the island justice, without 

car time eating into holiday time. 

Key industries, besides tourism, 

were shoe- and cheese-production 

— some of my favourites. So, on 

paper, it looked pretty good. So 

how would it fare in the flesh? 


First impressions matter, of 

course. And Borja, the smiling 

car-hire guy at the airport, aced it, 

airily telling us to just leave the keys 

in the glove compartment on our 

return, maintaining his smile even 

after a local woman reversed her 

car into ours: ‘Sure, have another!’ 

We drove off happy to believe that 

‘delightfully relaxed’ might be 

the default Menorquin mood. 

Mahoń, the capital and our stop 

for the first couple of days, did little 

to undo Borja’s good work. High 

above the huge natural harbour 

that made the island quite the catch 

among Europe’s naval powers (its 

dance card was marked by the Brits 

for much of the 18th century) we 

found a chilled, well-groomed city of 

green-shuttered Georgian buildings 

and chunky, fortress-like convents. 

One is now a museum; another, the 

Claustre del Carme, a food market 

downstairs, the island’s music 

conservatory upstairs. We sat outside 

in the sun eating La Menorquina ice 

creams, Brahms’s Hungarian Dance 

No 5 galloping allegro out of the 

rehearsal-room window above. 

Wandering through the 

pedestrianised centre, we passed 

grannies gossiping on benches 

beneath orange trees, and watched a 

band of folk musicians and dancers 

entertain the late-afternoon crowds. 

At Can’Oliver, a 19th-century mansion 

turned gallery-museum, gorgeous 

frescoes on ceilings and the double 

staircase were the backdrop to blessedly 

succinct displays on the island’s 

history, including one panel on the 

Brits’ linguistic legacy. Such pride. 

A family of suckers for a shoe shop, 

we were helpless in the face of one 

store’s floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall 

rainbow of traditional avarca sandals. 

Mallorca’s native shoe is the Camper 

trainer; from Ibiza I could recall only 

sequins and boho tassels. But this was 

authentic summery heaven — window 

shopping was not enough. Waltzing 

on, freshly shod, we found in Plaça 

Bastió a handful of inviting cafés and 

bars ranged around a fabulous kids’ 

playground — the absolute, whydoes-every-town-not-have-this 

dream 

combo. The four-year-old scarpered 

‘ 

WE SIGHED, 

DELIGHTFULLY 

RELAXED, OVER 

TAPAS AND 

GLASSES OF 

THE LOCAL 

LEMONADE 

’ 


MENORCA 

These pages, clockwise from 

top left: Veranda and terraced 

garden in a traditionally styled 

home; stuffed buns on sale at a 

food market; the 19th century 

La Mola fortress; kayaks on the 

beach at Cala Macarella 

to make new amigos; we grown-ups 

sighed, delightfully relaxed, over tapas 

and glasses of the local lemonade. It 

was early days, but I was starting to 

feel a bit swoony about Menorca. 

Day three: time to get to know each 

other better and take off some clothes. 

For the beach, of course. Mahoń’s 

almost as far east as you can go on the 

island so off we went west, along the 

road built by the Brits when they moved 

the capital from Ciutadella at Menorca’s 

opposite end. And crikey, it was lovely. 

Beyond verges nodding with poppies 

and daisies, we saw windmills, hay 

bales, pines and palms, farms bounded 

by dry-stone walls with wooden gates 

so wiggly, they looked hand-drawn. 

Unlike the other Balearics, Menorca 

has cows, which means it has cheese 

— salty, paprika-bathed, moreish. We 

could only pass so many ‘elaboracio 

de formatge’ signs before stopping to 

buy some. We had bread and robiol 

pastries from a master Mahoń baker’s 

— beach picnic complete. But which 

beach? Menorca has more than a 

hundred. I asked the farmer selling us 

her formatge if she had a favourite. 

‘It all depends,’ she said, possibly 

a little too delightfully relaxed. But 

in fact, she had sound advice. ‘If 

there’s a southerly wind, we go to 

the north coast. If the Tramuntana 

is blowing from the north, we go 

south.’ What if there’s no wind? 

‘Have you seen how many 

windmills we have?’ 

Fingers in the air... south it was to 

Cala Mitjana, a clear-water cove of 

pale sand carved into pine-topped 

limestone cliffs; just one in a 

succession of pin-up-phenomenal 

beaches we saw on the island. It was 

all going so well — even better when 

we made it to second base. Hotel 

number two was in Ferreries, a snoozy 

little hill-cupped town of ochre, 

pink and white houses with windowboxes, 

cats and residents ready with 

a cheery ‘hola’. Inland, it seemed 

to be bypassed by most visitors, 

but it was brilliantly handy for 

exploration — within easy striking 

distance of Ciutadella (good for its 

gargoyled cathedral, tiled market 

and lavish nobles’ mansions), and 

both the north and south coasts. 


MENORCA 

Cala Macarella was another knockout 

southerner. On Mallorca, this beach 

would be swamped. On Ibiza, it’d be 

a beach club with daybeds. Here, the 

council banned parking because it 

was too busy, and you can’t even hire 

a lounger. It only endeared Menorca 

to me more. You can bus it, but we 

walked there along the clifftop path 

from Cala Galdana — a glorious half 

hour in itself, even before we got to 

the tantalising slow-reveal from the 

200-plus steps down to the sand. We 

swam, bought cold drinks from Bar 

Susy at the back of the beach and lolled 

by the shore under a pine tree. Bliss. 

And so the holiday romance 

continued, days rolling on as gently 

as the waves tickling the shore. In 

the north, we discovered the redsand 

of Cavalleria Beach and, from 

the lighthouse at its northern tip, 

watched the sun set over Connemararugged 

Cap de Cavalleria. A morning’s 

kayaking round the sheltered bay at 

Fornells gave us appetite enough for 

a caldereta, the Menorcan lobster 

stew that brings the king of Spain to 

town. I hope he gets the full side-table, 

finger-bowl and bib treatment we did. 

Moving east for our last few days, 

we added to our list of greatest 

beachy hits: the dunes and shallow 

bay of Es Grau and the cove at 

sleepy, write-your-novel Alcaufar. 

Did my smitten-ness know no bounds? 

Well yes, it did. Google pictures of Cova 

d’en Xoroi and you’ll see why I insisted 

we go — you’ll either get a cluster of 

thatched-parasol bar tables clinging to a 

cliff above the peacock- blue sea, or the 

rose-gold sunset that lights up the bar 

each evening. And it is a wowy setting, 

no question, out at the end of quietly 

resorty Cala en Porter. But as with all 

the best profile pictures, the reality was 

a bit different. Those ledges with their 

billowing white-fabric canopies were 

for cash-flashing VIPs only. As the sun 

dipped, everyone else — the world and 

his selfie-stick — was squeezed onto 

the rock-cut steps and little corners of 

the cave-bar. Besides the crowds, the 

dress code was definitely more smart 

than casual. None of it terrible, but 

still, it all felt a bit... Ibiza. Swipe left. 

Nor was I quite convinced by one 

meal we had in lazy, low-key Sant 

This page, clockwise from top left: 

Beefsteak tomatoes at Piazza della 

Repubblica market; a worker harvesting 

grapes; alfresco dining at a café in San 

Carlo Piazza; Piazza San Carlo 

‘ 

THE HOLIDAY 

ROMANCE 

CONTINUED, 

DAYS ROLLING 

ON AS GENTLY 

AS THE WAVES 

TICKLING 

THE SHORE 

’ 

Climent. Es Moli de Foc came highly 

recommended and its food was 

fabulous — the vast pans hanging in 

the kitchen a clue to its rice prowess. 

Inside were antique chairs, modern 

art and colourful fan lights; we sat in 

the pretty, high-walled courtyard and 

it should have been perfect. Perhaps 

the spark that was missing here was 

a local feel. Rather than the Spanish 

buzz we’d found elsewhere, here the 

clientele was resolutely baby-boomer 

British, including one minor celeb 

in his ‘don’t look at me’ bright green 

blazer. It all felt a bit... Mallorca. 

It was down to our last lunch to 

restore faith, rekindle love, relight 

my fire. On a corner by the main road 

in Sant Climent, all plastic chairs 

and wall-mounted TVs, Es Casino 

was an unlikely cupid. But — how 

strange the change from Mallorca to 

Menorca — a houseful of Spanishspeaking 

Sunday lunchers boded 

well. So did the golden-anniversary 

granny serenading her assembled 

family. We asked the waitress for local 

specialities; she brought calves’ liver, 

tongue with capers and rosemary. 

Tender, flavourful delights the lot 

of ’em, not half as challenging as 

they sounded. Even the patatas we 

ordered for the fussy four-year-old 

came with a proper brava sauce. 

We felt content, delightfully 

relaxed. And there it was. Not 

that the other Balearics are ugly 

sisters, but it had been worth that 

third shot with the glass slipper. 

This was the true love island. 

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com 

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 


Opposite: The all-white Old 

white village of Binibeca 

This page: Cova d'en Xoroi, 

a bar and nightclub cut into 

the cliff face 


This page: A woman 

holding up incense sticks at 

the XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Jade Temple 

Opposite: Top of the neonlit 

Oriental Pearl Tower 


SHANGHAI 

China’s fast and furious bigcity 

dynamo also has a slow 

gear that’ll soothe your soul. 

Ellen Himelfarb finds its pulse 


SHANGHAI 

In a swish of flowing black 

changshan robes, the 

master enters the room, 

and the impatient taptapping 

of my foot is stilled 

as if by some enchantment. 

Wordlessly, he makes jasmine tea, 

pours it into tiny ceramic cups and 

sits, in balletic posture, to unfurl a 

fabric roll harbouring Lilliputian brass 

implements: brush, tongs and razorsharp 

spatula. Beside the tools sit clay 

bowls of aromatic powder, urns of fine 

white ash and brass stencils cut in lotusflower 

shapes — the raw materials of my 

‘incense appreciation’ lesson. Mirroring 

my teacher’s movements, I place a stencil 

on the ash and pat out the powder on 

top: another tap-tap, only calmer this 

time. Using my spatula I tidy the edges: a 

quieter swish. 

As I focus on sweeping up the 

fine, heady dust, the master speaks 

mellifluously about this ritual — 

thousands of years old — performed to 

heal, tell time, smoke away evil or, as 

today, simply help us mellow out. Then 

we lift our templates to reveal incense 

patterns that resemble flourishes on a 

cappuccino. We light the ends, and watch 

the embers smoulder, like cartoon TNT 

in slow-mo. 

In what seems like 10 minutes of deep 

concentration and deeper breathing, our 

hour flies by. Is this what they call... Zen? 

I was beyond excited for the bigger, 

taller, faster, everything-now rhythm 

of Shanghai, the organised chaos of 26 

million strivers. For the better part of a 

week, I’ve shopped the neon megastores 

of Nanjing Road, drank in lounges 100m 

higher than London’s Shard. I’ve battled 

sharp-elbowed tourists on the sacred 

‘zigzag bridge’ to photograph the ancient 

temples of Yu Garden. I’ve even taken 

part in the latest rite of passage: a fix 

of nitrogen-infused tea in a throbbing 

2,694sq m rotunda — one of the biggest 

Starbucks in the world. 

Mission accomplished. But if I carry 

on this way any longer I’ll need a holiday 

from my holiday. What’s required for 

the next few days is some stillness, 

some tranquillity, some peace and quiet 

and contemplation, and breathing out. 

Some serene ancient yin to the city’s 

hectic modern yang. And Nanshufang, 

this soft-lit school of ‘scholarly arts’ 

— tea ceremonies, flower-arranging, 

calligraphy and more join incense on 

the curriculum — is the perfect place 

to start. While outside, in the Xintiandi 

neighbourhood, shoppers dash around 

trendy trainer shops tucked into 

traditional grey-brick shikumen houses, 

I bend over to inhale the fragrant scent 

of a Qing-style table in historic Chinese 

nanmu wood, while a teacher and 

student pluck their zither-like guqins 

in the background. ‘The speed of life 

is taking its toll,’ explains the teacher. 

‘People are reacting to the pressure 

by returning to Confucianism and 

Buddhism, exchanging material values 

for culture, slowing down.’ 

That may be true, but my blood 

pressure shoots right up again as soon 

as I leave. Dinner’s in an hour at a 

restaurant deep in the former French 

Concession — the southwest quarter 

of the city cordoned off by French 

occupiers in the 19th century — but 

crossing Xintiandi requires the agility 

of a street dancer. My moves aren’t up 

to it, so I hop in a taxi, thinking it will be 

more relaxing. 

It’s not. Hurtling westward, I slide 

down in my seat to take in the sheer 

height of the new towers edging the 

French colonists’ old haunt, as my driver 

‘ 

THE 

LANDSCAPE 

UNFOLDS LIKE A 

FILM SET AFTER 

THE DIRECTOR 

HAS WRAPPED 

AND THE CAST 

HAS LEFT FOR 

THE DAY 

’ 

veers around buzzing swarms of electric 

scooters and maverick pedestrians with 

the skill of a video-game champion. This 

is edge-of-the-seat stuff, until, at the 

marvellously named Wulumuqi Road, the 

traffic grinds to a hooting, honking halt. 

The cabbie taps the long nail of his pinkie 

against the wheel. 

‘Ni ho hala mia wan wo ga lai!’ he says. 

Or something of the sort. Surely he’s 

not talking to me, I think, until he 

repeats himself with the assurance of 

an American tourist expecting everyone 

to speak his language. My stress levels 

ratchet up further. Rather than mangle 

words plucked from my Chinese 

phrasebook, I pay the fare on the meter 

and flee, nearly colliding with a bicycle 

cart carrying bananas, as he continues to 

speak in my direction. 

At first, the pavements teem as much as 

the tarmac. In narrow shops wide open 

to the street, fishmongers sink their nets 

deep into tanks to pull out wriggling 

‘mitten crabs’ with claws encircled 

by fuzz, like tiny fur muffs, as I dodge 

queues of clocked-off workers buying 

buns from bamboo steamers. This is 

not the tranquil French Concession I’m 

craving right now. 

But as I turn into a side street, suddenly 

the scene fades — until the only sound 

is the swaying branches of the mature 

plane trees forming a canopy overhead. 

Clay-roofed villas sit back from sepiatoned 

walls, the last light of the day 

dappling the stucco. It’s no wonder the 

French clung on to this little enclave of 

quiet for nearly a century. 

The landscape unfolds like a film set 

after the director has wrapped and 

the cast has left for the day. Here and 

there a window glows with a scene: a 

smocked barber wielding electric shears, 

or a candlelit bar stocked with French 

imports. A rusty bicycle leans like a prop 

against a dress shop. Passing an Art Deco 

manor retrofitted with wires and satellite 

dishes, I feel a drop of water. In an 

upstairs window, an old lady pins a pair 

of large white pants to a wire rack jutting 

out over the street. She adds a bright pink 

shirt, then unfurls a patterned bedsheet 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

These pages, clockwise from top left: 

Food cooks in traditional bamboo 

steamers; tai chi at sunrise; neon 

advertisements illuminate the night 

sky; colourful pavilions at Yu Garden; 

statuettes of terracotta warriors on sale 

at a tourist market 


This page: A bird's eye view of 

the Yu Yuan Garden 


SHANGHAI 

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 

like a welcome banner. As I move on, the 

drips stain the pavement behind me. 

My friend April has chosen our 

restaurant, Old Jesse — it’s a tranquil 

tonic following my days spent immersed 

in the thick of ‘new’ Shanghai. The 

two of us meet on an otherwise vacant 

tree-lined street, but our table in the 

1930s terraced house isn’t ready, so we 

wander aimlessly up the road and into 

a residential lane, where we’re met with 

more drizzle as a woman pours a bucket 

of water over her head to wash her hair. 

When our table becomes free, April and 

I squeeze around a small square of wood 

in the house’s former living room. Platter 

after platter of meat is coming out of the 

kitchen to every mismatched table, and 

patrons are chomping the chunks, fat 

and all, at an alarming rate. Ours comes 

supple, as if it’s been cooked for a day, 

and perfectly crisped on the fatty side so 

that the two parts ooze together in a salty 

swirl. Wilted pea shoots doused in garlic 

sauce mitigate this heart attack on a 

plate. Only the ‘drunken chicken’ — slices 

of breast steeped in rice wine and served 

cold as per tradition — fails to charm me. 

Back on Wulumuqi Road, en route to 

my hotel, the traffic is still buzzing but 

the streets are quietening. The noodle 

shops are closing up, with just the last 

few patrons finishing their meals over 

calming games of smartphone mahjong. 

Four pensioners in white singlets play 

cards around a plastic garden table. 

Students headed for the clubs buy 

skewers of meat from a small mobile 

barbecue, the smoke billowing around 

their pastel-dyed coifs. And among it all, 

a young man has rolled out a woven mat 

on the pavement and fallen fast asleep, 

presumably to sneak in some zzzs before 

his morning shift. I admire his zen. 

At 9am the next morning, I’ve 

installed myself on the Bund, the 

riverfront boulevard strung with palatial 

European landmarks, like diamonds in a 

flamboyant headdress. I know it well, at 

least by night, when it glimmers from 

‘ 

DUCKING 

ALL THE 

SELFIE STICKS 

CRISSCROSSING 

THE PATH, I FELT 

LIKE A BRIDE 

PASSING UNDER 

AN ARCH OF 

SABRES 

’ 

lights arranged strategically around the 

spires, columns and domes. Earlier this 

week I joined the frenzied passeggiata 

along the promenade, facing the new 

city of super-tall towers flashing and 

pinging with adverts across the river. 

Ducking all the selfie sticks criss 

crossing the path, I felt like a bride 

passing under an arch of sabres. 

That was then. Now, on my last day in 

town, I’m still not as decompressed as 

I want to be. April has recommended 

coming back to the Bund: ‘It’s a 

different place in the mornings,’ 

she says. In place of the hordes, six 

pensioners dressed head to toe in black 

move with exaggerated slowness in a 

t’ai chi dance to a tinny soundtrack of 

pan flutes. I try to find patterns in their 

gently waving arms and gradual lunges, 

to align my breathing with the gentle 

pad of Adidas on pavement. And slowly, 

surely, with the sun’s glare almost 

obscuring the hyperbolic skyline to 

the east, I feel myself slipping towards 

another world. 

I’ve still got some sightseeing to do, 

but rather than navigate through the 

thick of downtown, I’ve mapped out 

a route along the Suzhou River, a curly 

wisp of water snaking along the north 

side of the city. A landscaped path 

clings to it, passing century-old 

textile warehouses and factories 

converted into lofts, shrubbery 

peeking out from rooftop gardens. 

The infamous smog diffuses the sun 

into a downy duvet of light. 

I wander under rows of oak and 

chestnut, no cars or bikes playing the 

usual game of Intersection Chicken, and 

end up beside the yellow-ochre walls 

of the 19th-century Jade Temple, five 

minutes’ stroll from the river. Last time 

I was here, the crowds were four deep 

around the ceremonial urns, and the 

threat of third-degree burns from their 

smouldering joss sticks was anything 

but Zen, so I brace myself as I enter. But 

inside, I find couples wandering hand 

in hand, shaded by swooping eaves, 

exploring lacquered red halls in peace 

and reverential quiet. Monks in sighing 

saffron robes slip by in silence so pure I 

can hear the slap of their sandals. 

Why so calm? Last year, I overhear a 

guide murmuring, the entire temple was 

hoisted up on rollers and shifted 30m 

backwards. In the void, a vast courtyard 

emerged in which to breathe, reflect, and 

freely swing a joss stick. 

For a while I sit on the temple steps, 

breathing in incense and feeling my 

slouch sink into a slump that almost 

matches the Buddha’s. I glide to the 

Metro. Shanghai’s mass-transit system 

is the longest in the world — and, 

thanks to its 430kph airport train, the 

most breakneck-fast too. But by early 

evening the crowds have dispersed from 

the immense ticket hall, parting the 

way to an English-language kiosk. How 

easy it is to drop in my handful of coins 

for a ticket, how clear the signs to the 

platform, how quickly my train arrives, 

how strangely... relaxing it all is. 

The train speeds away, causing light 

projections on the tunnel walls to move 

like a zoetrope. I lean against a pole and 

watch meditatively as the air chimes 

with gadgetry lullabies. This is the last 

place I would have looked for serenity, 

but Shanghai surprises even — especially 

— when it’s not trying. And I think I’ve 

finally found peace. 




58 worldtravellermagazine.com 

Old Hollywood glamour, sherbet for breakfast and 

active volcanoes — Faye Bartle enjoys a 

mind-blowing break under the Sicilian sun

SICILY 


SICILY 

olidaying within spitting 

distance (almost) 

of Mount Etna, one 

of the biggest active 

volcanoes in the world, 

certainly adds a small element of danger 

to what would otherwise be a classic 

mix of sun, sand and sea in the Med. 

Sicily’s landmark attraction has an 

explosive history, most recently ‘waking 

up’ in May this year with an eruption 

that created clouds of ash and sent 

flowing trails of red-hot lava down two 

sides of its New Southeast Crater. Its 

fiery displays have captivated people 

through the ages. As legend has it, the 

Greek philosopher Empedocles threw 

himself into the crater in an attempt 

to discover the secrets of its eruptive 

activity, while Theoderic the Great, 

king of the Ostrogoths, ended up being 

dragged in by his skittish horse. Like a 

moth to the flame, I too could not resist 

the mountain’s magnetic pull, which 

is how I found myself careering over 

the rocky landscape in a four-wheel 

drive one crisp spring morning. 

“We consider Etna to be a female 

mountain – she throws out lava every 

once in a while, but she rarely kills 

anyone,” jokes my driver Alberto, as 

he parks up to allow his passengers to 

explore on foot. “My father brought 

me here after one particularly large 

eruption when I was just eight years 

old. I remember it well, as the lava 

hadn’t quite cooled down yet and 

I burnt the soles of my shoes.” 

Of course, the locals have grown 

savvy to Etna’s temperamental ways, 

taking the good with the bad. The 

volcanic landscape that surrounds 

the peak is covered in hauntingly 

beautiful fireweeds: vibrant red, 

pink and yellow flowers that are a 

result of the mineral-rich lava that 

has hardened on the ground. 

The mountain is also home to thriving 

vineyards, including the family-run 

Fischetti, which is best reached by 

boarding the historic carriages of 

the Ferrovia Circumetnea railway, a 

110-kilometre line that almost encircles 

Etna. Designed to connect Catania and 

Riposto, the concept was presented by 

British civil engineer Robert Trewhella 

in 1885, with its first part inaugurated 

in 1895. Today, it offers visitors an eyepleasing 

trip around the mountain, with 

its characterful steam train popping 

out on rare occasions to transport 

people on foodie tours of the area. 

Fischetti, nestled on the North- 

Eastern side of Etna, looks just like 

the house that Vito Corleone retired 

to in The Godfather – no stretch of the 

imagination considering many scenes 

for the acclaimed mob drama were 

filmed on the island. Covered in lush 

green vines and surrounded by fruitful 

gardens (pomegranates, aubergine, and 

artichoke were all ready for plucking), 

it’s a warm and welcoming place to 

go for an intimate feast of delicious 

Sicilian dishes washed down with the 

aged results of Fischetti’s best harvest. 

From cherry tomatoes rich with flavour 

to gambero rosso (red prawns) caught 


Opening pages from left to 

right: The beach at Belmond Villa 

Sant'Andrea; a mixture of Sicilian 

appetisers by Oliviero restaurant at 

the Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea 

Opposite: The view from a room at 

Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea 

This page clockwise from top 

left: A bee gets to work on making 

lavender honey on Etna; strolling 

over solidified lava on Etna; 

Salvatore Rodolico, a boat builder in 

Acitrezza; granita and brioche 

fresh by the local fishermen and the 

must-try arancini (a ball of creamy 

risotto rice that’s breaded and then deep 

fried), meals are an art form here. 

“Mamma mia!” exclaim my Italian 

companions, as they sample the simple 

yet utterly delicious delights. While I’m 

no foodie, I took this as a sure sign I 

was onto a good thing. One thing I can 

assure you, is that you haven’t tasted 

the real Sicily until you try granita. 

This classic dessert, also a staple 

breakfast dish eaten with brioche, is 

thought to have been inspired by Arab 

culture during the Muslim conquest 

of Sicily from 827 until 902 CE. 

“They brought citrus and sugar cane 

with them and, essentially, they taught 

us how to make sherbet,” says chef 

Giovanna Musumeci, as she rolled up 

her sleeves to show us how it’s done 

in the small but lively Pasticceria 

Santo Musumeci in Randazzo. 

Just like sorbet, but crunchier, granita 

is made by blending water, sugar and 

fruit juice and freezing it in a metal 

‘ 

EACH COURSE 

IS SERVED IN A 

DIFFERENT HOME, 

WITH A SIDE OF 

MOTHERLY LOVE 

’ 

pan, scraping off the crystals that have 

formed around the sides and mixing 

them together to make a refreshingly 

semi-frozen treat. Simply tear off a 

chunk of brioche and use it to scoop 

the granita straight into your mouth. 

All manner of flavours are added, from 

mulberry to lemon, but for breakfast you 

can’t go wrong with coffee or almond 

flavoured granita – the latter is typical 

to the region of Catania. Speaking of 

which, the pistachios are a must-try. 

Again, I am assured with great gusto 

by the Italians that the little green nuts 

here are like nowhere else on the planet – 

“mamma mia!” they all cheer in unison. 

Dining in Sicily is a social affair and if 

you’re eager to sit down with the locals, 

you must check out the Le Mamme del 

Borgo experience. The brainchild of a 

group of mothers in the charming village 

of Motta Camastra, you’ll be whisked 

away for lunch or dinner served in the 

homes of these talented matriarchs. Each 

course is served in a different home, 

giving you the chance to taste authentic 

dishes with a side of motherly love. It’s 

a fantastic way to learn why Sicilians 

are so passionate about cooking. 

I’d ventured to Sicily for more than just 

good food, however. For me, the sparkling 

coastline was the draw card. The 

Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea, where I was 

staying, was certainly a feast for the eyes. 

Set on its own private beach in Taormina 

Bay, the views are simply stunning. In 

snagging a suite with a balcony facing the 

Bay of Mazzarò, I’d found my temporarily 

child-free happy place where I could 

read for hours while colourful boats 

bobbed in the water, brave swimmers 


This page: Fischetti at the foot 

of Mount Etna 

Opposite: Isola Bella cuts a shapely 

figure in the Mediterranean Sea 

-style 

jumped from the rocks, and explorers 

made their way along the narrow 

pebble beach to the lush Isola Bella. 

As the famous German writer Johann 

Wolfgang von Goethe said of Taormina 

in 1787: “We could not tear ourselves 

away until after sunset. To watch this 

landscape, so remarkable in every 

aspect, slowly sinking into darkness, 

was an incredibly beautiful sight.” 

Celebrating its 100 th anniversary this 

year, Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea tells 

a gripping tale, with all the glamour 

you’d expect of an exclusive Sicilian 

retreat. Built by an aristocratic family 

in 1830, the villa was bought by the 

Trewhella family in the 1920s (the 

same Englishman who’d come to help 

develop the Circumetnea railway). They 

set about expanding the villa, adding 

palm trees to the gardens and filling the 

house with antiques and oil paintings. 

Following a lockdown period during 

WW2, the family reopened the villa as 

a small hotel in 1950. The place quickly 

became known as a celebrity hotspot, 

welcoming a roster of high-profile 

guests, including Sir Winston Churchill 

and his wife Clementine, Richard Burton, 

Elizabeth Taylor, Al Pacino and Francis 

Ford Coppola. And while the Trewhella’s 

waved goodbye to the property in 1985, 

this stunning hotel, once just a small 

house in an olive grove by the sea, still 

exudes star quality. You don’t have to 

look far to find the party – even the 

chefs are at it, regularly transforming 

the kitchen into a nightclub for foodies, 

‘ 

PLOT A COURSE 

FOR LIPARI, THE 

LARGEST OF 

THE UNESCO- 

PROTECTED 

VOLCANIC 

ISLANDS ON 

THE COAST 

’ 

complete with DJs in chef whites. 

Indeed, sparkling fountains and 

evenings spent dancing along the shore 

comprise a standard night ‘in’ here. 

The estate is just as alluring during 

the day. The aromas of orange blossom, 

neroli and jasmine fill the air (a 

trademark so cherished that Belmond 

has introduced three dedicated suites 

inspired by the scents). Eager to seek 

out my own keepsakes, I made the 

short stroll to the base of the Taormina 

Cableway, which whisks passengers 

up to the town centre in just three 

minutes. And while this creaking 

communal zipline may be bad news 

for those with no head for heights, it 

is by far the fastest route to the top – 

and costs just US$6.8 (€6) return. This 

picturesque hilltop town has plenty to 

discover, including an ancient Greek 

theatre that’s still used today. Tourists 

come to soak up the sweeping Ionian 

seascapes and, in my case, to shop. 

Follow in the footsteps of Orson Welles, 

D. H. Lawrence and Truman Capote and 

browse the bustling main thoroughfare 

and narrow backstreets lined with shops 

selling gorgeous mementoes to those 

with money to burn. From beautiful 

ceramics to vintage travel posters, I was 

very quickly relieved of all my euros. 

There’s plenty to distract you from 

spending too much, however. From 

private walking tours of the town to 

catching an opera at the amphitheatre. 

For something a bit different, the 

Belmond-organised Ape Tour of 

Taormina takes you on a whistle-stop 

tour of the sights in a three-wheeled 

Ape Calessino (imagine a Europeanstyle 

tuk tuk). You’ll visit Casa Cuseni, 

a beautiful honey-stuccoed residence 

built by British painter Robert Kitson 

in the early 20th century, go for a picnic 

on Isola Bella beach, and stop for a 

drink at Wunderbar, one of Tennesse 

Williams’ favourite watering holes. 

If you’re eager to explore the 

sparkling sea, a boat trip to the 

Aeolian Islands is sure to impress. 

Plot a course for Lipari, the largest 

of the UNESCO-protected, ruggedly 

volcanic islands that grace the coast. 

Suitably relaxed, I couldn’t help 

but wonder if life would be richer in 

Taormina. Admittedly a dramatic change 

of pace compared to Dubai, the idea 

is not entirely beyond the realms of 

possibility. In January this year, the town 

of Mussomeli launched an initiative 

inviting foreign investors to buy a 

historic home there for just US$1.1 (€1) 

– talk about making me an offer I can’t 

refuse. No joke, however, the Case1euro.it 

initiative was designed to help regenerate 

and breathe new life into the area, which 

is situated just a few kilometres from the 

beach and is home to just 11,000 people. 

The only catch? You must renovate the 

house within three years of buying it – a 

task that could rack up a six-figure bill, 

according to my Italian friends. So while 

I may not have found my permanent 

slice of Sicilian serenity just yet, the 

seed has definitely been planted. 




SICILY 


OUR TOP TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

IN SEPTEMBER 

EXPLORE NEW 

DESTINATIONS LIKE 

MOSCOW, GLASGOW, 

ZANZIBAR AND 

VIETNAM 

Book at dnatatravel.com 

call 800 DNATA (36282) or 

speak with our travel experts in-store 

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Weekends 

Staycations and short-haul escapes 

LADY LUCK 

Eager for a weekend getaway with the 

girls? While Sharjah may not have been 

the first destination to spring to mind, the 

recent opening of Al Bait Sharjah — a sister 

property of The Chedi Muscat — is a game 

changer. This beautiful boutique property 

offers a whole host of women-only services, 

including options to reserve a complete 

accommodation block (up to 10-12 rooms) 

and be served exclusively by female staff/ 

butlers for the duration of the stay. 


WEEKENDS 

CULTURE TRIP 

Let us reacquaint you with this 

culture spot that's ideally placed for 

a mind-nourishing mini break 

4 

ISTANBUL 

Hagia Sophia 

HISTORICAL SITES AND MUSEUMS 

Comprised of three museums – the archaeological 

museum, the museum of the ancient Orient 

and the museum of Islamic art – the Istanbul 

Archaeology Museums draw history buffs 

with their impressive line-up of archaeological 

treasures. Just around the corner, Topkapı 

Palace offers a glimpse into the grand lives of the 

Ottoman Empire’s Sultans during the 15 th and 19 th 

centuries by showcasing extravagant relics of the 

dynasty’s riches. Widely considered the epitome 

of Byzantine architectural expertise, Hagia Sophia 

should be your next stop. Marvel at shimmering 

gold mosaics, exquisite Arabic calligraphy and 

huge domes built nearly 1,500 years ago. 

ART GALLERIES 

Known for challenging visitors’ ideas about art, 

Arter is quickly gaining a reputation as an edgy 

platform for Turkish art featuring the likes of Mona 

Hatoum, Sarkis and Marc Quinn. More on the 

avant-garde spectrum, Rodeo offers innovation in 

spades with its cutting-edge take on art. But the 

crème de la crème of the city’s art scene is Istanbul 

Modern. Blending the city's artistic and cultural 

identity with the international art world is what 

makes this creative hub a must-see. 

THIS MONTH'S HIGHLIGHT 

Already listed among the 

most visionary art events 

of 2019, the 16 th Istanbul 

Biennial is taking place this 

year between 14 September 

and 10 November. Curated 

by French art scholar and 

writer Nicolas Bourriaud, 

the long awaited exhibition 

is titled 'The Seventh 

Continent' and will aim 

to highlight the impact of 

ARTISAN FINDS 

human activities on the 

planet through the brilliant Coffee lovers should make a beeline to 

work of more than 57 artists. 

Çadircilar Caddesi near the Grand Bazaar 

and watch coppersmiths perfect the art of coffee 

pot-making. For a swirl of colour, places like Iznik 

produce the best ceramic pieces renowned for 

their rich and elaborate designs. 

LOCAL FLAVOUR 

A true classic, Borsa serves up age-old delicacies 

with a gorgeous backdrop of the city. Dive into 

traditional dishes like döner, kuzu taandır and içli 

köfte. Alternatively, Karaköy Lokantası is the place 

to go for a taste of home-cooked goodness. The 

restaurant invites guests with its cosy ambience 

and delicious spread of local specialities. 

Traditional coffee-pot 

WHERE TO STAY 

Live the Sultan life at Hotel Sultania and indulge in 

a signature Hammam fit for royals. For those with a 

keen interest in history, Eresin Crown Hotel boasts 

the title ‘museum hotel’ for its impressive display of 

real artefacts from the Ottoman and Byzantine eras. 


long 

the 

weekend 

Kraków 

A combination of historic 

architecture underpinned 

by a rich culture and thriving 

food and retail scene means 

Poland’s second city won’t be 

under the radar for long 

This page: Market 

Square 

Opposite from top: 

Entrance gate to the 

Royal Castle; 

Hotel Copernicus; 


LONG WEEKEND 

With its cobbled streets, horse-drawn carriages and 

Cinderella castles, Kraków’s fairy-tale credentials 

are obvious, but these old-world charms are 

just part of the city’s appeal. Vestiges of the 

different eras that have defined Kraków through 

the centuries offer visitors an opportunity to 

explore one of Eastern Europe’s most fascinating 

cities, from the mediaeval monuments of the old 

town and Renaissance palaces along Florianska 

Street, to the communist architecture of Nowa 

Huta and everything in-between. There’s a lively 

contemporary arts community that hosts a busy 

calendar of events and a diverse café culture and 

foodie scene that ranges from budget-friendly milk 

bars to high-end restaurants serving the finest Polish 

cuisine. Viewpoints abound from castle towers and 

church spires while, at street level, there are twisting 

alleyways and sprawling piazzas to take in. 

Kraków’s oldest hotel, 

the Pod Róza, is located 

just off the Market 

Square and features 57 

beautifully appointed 

rooms renovated in 

keeping with their historic 

character. Antique 

furniture is balanced 

with modern comforts, 

from gleaming marble 

bathrooms to frescoed 

walls and polishedwood 

floors that set the 

Renaissance tone in this 

surprisingly budgetfriendly 

option. Guests 

can dine on Tuscan food 

at Amarone downstairs 

or international and 

contemporary Polish 

cuisine in the hotel’s 

second restaurant. Not 

far from here, another 

mid-size hotel, the Unicus 

Palace, offers a five-star 

retreat complete with 

swimming pool and 

Jacuzzi to unwind after a 

day of sightseeing. Inside 

the old building, the décor 

is modern and minimalist, 

with large comfortable 

beds and a friendly front 

desk, where staff go 

out of their way to offer 

A BED FOR THE AGES 

Characterful abodes abound 

in a city steeped in history 

advice. The Grand Hotel 

in the Old Town was once 

a favourite among the 

city’s literati, described 

as the “most modern and 

luxurious hotel in town”, 

when it opened in 1887. 

Drink in the ambience at 

the hotel’s Vienna Café 

and browse the pictures 

of many former famous 

guests on the walls. The 29 

rooms at Hotel Copernicus 

are a fabulous mid-range 

option in a beautiful building 

that dates back to the 

1500s. Guests can also take 

an atmospheric dip in the 

hotel’s unique subterranean 

swimming pool, which was 

built under the arches in 

mediaeval cellars. 

café 

culture 

When Kraków was under 

Austrian influence it 

became common to see 

Viennese-style coffee 

houses around the city. 

Today, Kraków has 

developed a distinctive 

café culture of its own, 

with spots like Bunkier, 

which adjoins the famous 

Bunkier Sztuki Gallery. 

This is a popular venue 

in its own right, partly 

due to the garden, where 

transparent walls are 

raised in the winter to 

allow guests to sip their 

coffee year-round. 

Wesola Café is a small, 

intimate space where the 

smell of crushed coffee 

beans drifts through the 

door upon opening. For 

somewhere to kick back 

with a good book in hand, 

Massolit Books and Café 

is the obvious choice. 

Cosy, comfy and complete 

with a well-stocked library 

of mainly-English books, 

it’s easy to while away 

a rainy afternoon in this 

charming retreat. 


shop 

the city 

Take home a souvenir 

Pick up beautiful wood 

carvings, amber jewellery, 

hand-painted ceramics 

and other traditional 

items at Sukkience, also 

known as the Cloth Hall, 

a traditional trading area 

where travelling merchants 

used to congregate to ply 

their wares. A stroll along 

Florianska Street is another 

great way to browse local 

produce, including Polish 

culinary delicacies like 

mountain cheese and 

pickled cucumbers. Kacper 

Ryx Historical Shop in the 

Hipolit House Museum 

stocks a selection of local 

arts and crafts as well as 

vintage items. 

Shopping malls 

One of the largest malls 

in Kraków is Galerie 

Krakówska, which is 

located just off Main 

Market Square. There’s 

also Galeria Kazimierz, 

which has bookshops and 

cafés, as well as a 

cinema. 

Local 

boutiques 

There is a 

growing 

independent 

fashion scene 

in Kraków, where 

edgy boutiques such as 

Pan Tu Nie Stal offer the 

latest in hipster wear. 

Pasaz 13 stocks highend 

labels, while Boogie 

Flowear sells boho items 

at budget prices. On 

weekends, browse the 

flea stall stands at Hala 

Targowa market, which 

has all sorts for sale; from 

vintage postcards and 

second-hand books to 

clothes to furniture and the 

odd decent painting. 

DINE OUT 

MILKBAR TOMASZA 

Bar mleczny, or milk 

bars, are a Polish 

tradition dating back 

to 1896 when workers 

in socialist post-war 

Poland relied on 

these governmentsubsidised 

cafés for 

affordable hot meals. 

The revamped interior 

at Milkbar Tomasza 

has made it touristfriendly 

for local dishes 

at great prices. 

STARKA 

Cosy with candlelight, 

this is home-cooked 

Polish food at its best. It’s 

open until late and gets 

busy on weekends. 

AMARYLLIS 

Recommended in the 

2017 Michelin guide, 

Amaryllis continues to 

attract discerning diners 

with food that combines 

Polish culinary traditions 

with the latest trends and 

techniques to create dishes 

like the pear and fennel 

infused Baltic salmon. 

Itinerary add-ons 

High on a hilltop overlooking the city, Wawel 

Royal Castle was the royal seat for centuries in 

Poland and is now one of the country’s premier 

museums. Many tourists in Kraków pay a visit to 

Oskar Schindler’s factory, which featured in the 

movie Schindler’s List and is now a museum where 

visitors can explore life in Kraków during WWII. 

Lastly, leafy, peaceful and picturesque Planty 

Park is where the locals go to wander. The park 

comprises eight separate gardens that merge to 

create a circular walking route dotted with cafés 

serving aromatic coffee. 


LONG WEEKEND 

KRAKÓW ON FOOT 

Choose from a wide selection of 

walking tours exploring different 

aspects of the city 

Opposite page, from top: A 

dish by Amaryllis; shoppers on 

Florianska Street; Planty Park 

This page from top: Tourists 

on a walking tour of the city 

© Urban Adventures; view of 

horse-drawn carriage through a 

stained-glass window of Town 

Hall Tower 

WIELICZKA SALT MINE TOUR Follow an experienced 

guide through the tunnels and chambers of Kraków’s 

most famous salt mine and see hidden chapels carved 

by miners many centuries ago, underwater lakes and 

other extraordinary sites hundreds of metres below 

ground. kraków-tours.com 

KRAKÓW BY NIGHT Meet in front of St. Mary’s 

Church in Main Market Square to discover the city 

after dark with Cracow Free Tours. The Secrets of 

Kraków by Night tour delves into the dark corners 

and turbulent tales behind some of the city’s 

oldest sites, including mediaeval torture chambers. 

cracowfreetours.com 

CREATE YOUR OWN Urban Adventures can tailor 

a tour to create a truly personalised experience 

of Kraków. In the past the company has designed 

behind-the-scenes tours — including organising 

wheelchair access — in areas not usually open to the 

public, and arranged culinary adventures with local 

chefs. urbanadventures.com 

Words: Olivia Cuthbert 

insider tips 

Agata Kulis, a guide 

at ToursByLocals, 

shares expert 

insights into making 

the most of your time 

in Kraków 

Kraków is definitely a 

city of culture — we celebrate music, art, 

literature and cuisine. As a musician, my 

favourite annual event is the Film Music 

Festival in May. For some of the best 

views of the city, climb St. Mary’s Tower or 

walk around the City Defence Walls and 

peer down into the charming streets and 

piazzas of Kraków’s Old Town. If you fancy 

getting out of the city, drive the two hours 

to the Pieniny National Park and take a dip 

in the Dunajec River, then stay overnight at 

the castle in Niedzica on Lake Czorsztyn 

for a really special experience. Another 

highlight in this city is the street food and 

Kraków Grill in Kazimierz is a great place to 

try it. Mrs Bozenka will serve you traditional 

delicacies like kielbasa (sausages) and 

Oscypek (mountain sheep cheese with 

cranberry sauce) as part of a Polish meal. 

ARCHITECTURAL 

FEAST 

As the sun sets, head 

to the heart of Main 

Market Square and 

watch the colours 

of the historic 

townhouses fade as the 

silhouettes of some of 

Kraków’s most famous 

buildings emerge, from 

the gothic towers of 

St. Mary’s Basilica 

to the Renaissancestyle 

Cloth Hall, 

which features a 

magnificent Polish 

parapet adorned with 

carved masks. Take 

in the 10th-century 

Church of St. Adalbert 

and the elegant 

Town Hall Tower 

before diving deeper 

into the Old Town. 

The entire area is a 

designated UNESCO 

World Heritage site with 

around 6,000 historic 

sites encompassing 

Renaissance, Baroque 

and Gothic styles. 

Highlights include the 

crumbling city walls 

on cobbled Florianska 

Street, which is lined 

with mediaeval façades. 

At one end is the 

imposing St. Florian’s 

Gate, arguably 

one of the most 

impressive Middle Age 

fortifications in Eastern 

Europe. Take a turn 

down Grodzka, one of 

the city’s oldest streets, 

to see the grand 

façades of the old 

merchant guilds that 

once lined this former 

trading route. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI 

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI... 

Architectural gems 

Home to some of the world’s most cutting-edge 

designs, Abu Dhabi is pushing the envelope of 

architectural imagination like never before 

1 

Feel the world go round 

at Aldar Headquarters. 

Deemed the world’s first 

circular skyscraper, and the 

first of its kind in the Middle 

East, this 23-storey 110-metrehigh 

futuristic office space 

has taken its place alongside 

global landmarks for its stateof-the-art 

design, visual effect 

and innovative function. Set 

upon an elevated peninsula, 

it also offers spectacular city 

and sea views. 

2Lean 18° west at Capital 

Gate. Luring architecture 

fans with its stunning 

structure, this upscale 

skyscraper veers 18° to the 

west, earning the title of the 

‘World’s Furthest Leaning Man 

Made Tower’ from Guinness 

World Records. There’s plenty 

to see on the inside as well, 

with a permanent art gallery, 

165 Below, showcasing works 

of upcoming Emirati artists. 

3Get ready to rumble 

at Yas Hotel Abu 

Dhabi. The brainchild 

of renowned designers 

Hani Rashid and Lise Anna 

Couture, this is the first hotel 

ever built over an F1 race 

circuit. But more than that, 

this is a piece of art, which 

awes with its vast expanse of 

sweeping, curvilinear glass 

and steel. Marvel at the unique 

effect of its pivoting diamondshaped, 

colour-changing 

panes as they reflect LED 

illuminated video feeds that 

light up the night sky. 

Photo: Andaz Capital Gate Abu Dhabi 


DESTINATION: 

LOUVRE ABU DHABI 

© Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi / Photo by Hufton+Crow. Architect: Jean Nouvel. 

SEE HUMANITY IN A NEW LIGHT 

Louvre Abu Dhabi brings different cultures together 

to shine light on the shared stories of human creativity. 

Admission: AED 63, children under 13 free 

BOOK 

A DAY 

AWAY 

louvreabudhabi.ae

STAYCATION 

A QUICK GETAWAY 

John Thatcher and family speed to the 

Waldorf Astoria Ras al Khaimah for a grand weekend 

It’s rare that my wife and I fight 

over the car key. Admittedly, this 

has less to do with the car we drive 

(the Dubai standard SUV) and more 

to do with the actual driving we do — 

the daily school run, which we both 

undertake to the detriment of our 

respective blood pressures. This time, 

however, the allure was altogether 

different. We wouldn’t be driving (or 

actually inching our way, bumper to 

bumper) to school, or clambering 

inside a permanently dust-covered SUV, 

littered inside with bits of food, sweet 

wrappers and whatever ‘art’ the kids 

have made at school. No, this time we 

would be driving to the palatial Waldorf 

Astoria Ras Al Khaimah on a glorious 

Friday morning, on almost traffic-free 

roads. And better still, we would be 

doing so in an Aston Martin Rapide 

AMR, a four-door sportscar that would 

likely get us there quicker than it takes 

for us to complete the 3km school run. 

The downside? In every picture I had 

seen of the Aston it has a lurid lime 

green, 80s style ‘go faster’ stripe running 

the length of its body, which to my mind 

makes me at least 20 years too old to 

drive it. Behind its wheel I would feel as 

conscious of my age (44) as I would if 

dressed as a grime artist. So it was with a 

sense of palpable relief that on collecting 

the car I saw that the boy-racer green 

was restricted to a strip of lime that 

outlines the car’s body. Better still, it 

was just enough disagreeable detail to 

dissuade my wife from laying claim to 

the key. 

The other downside to driving a 

car built and styled for speed is that 

everyone else on the road takes it as 

a green light to try and race you. It’s 

inevitable on Dubai’s roads that drivers 

of white Nissan Patrols or any coloured 

Dodge will do this, but you don’t expect 

it from the driver of a noticeably aged 

Kia Picanto. But much to the amusement 

of our kids — loving life in the back seats, 

which are surprisingly roomy, for anyone 

aged 10 or below — the manic-eyed male 

at the wheel of his midnight blue Picanto 

was pushing it to its extremities as he 

tried to overtake us, the Picanto visibly 


WORLD TRAVELLER X WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL KHAIMAH 

shaking. I could have merely touched the 

accelerator with the weight of a feather 

and remained ahead of him, but egged 

on by the kids (try and forget that I’m 44 

at this point) I activate the car’s sports 

setting and soundtracked by the best 

sounding engine around, left the Picanto 

with an aurally delightful roar. 

And that’s the whole point of the 

Rapide AMR — it’s great fun. Speed 

aside, the carbon ceramic breaks 

are exceptional, the car’s handling 

impeccable (despite its obvious weight), 

its balance impressive (thanks to fat tyres 

on the largest wheels ever attached to an 

Aston) and it corners nimbly, allowing for 

full throttle exits. Of more of a surprise 

is the size of the boot, which easily 

accommodates a weekend’s luggage. 

Just as well, as this was a weekend when 

size mattered. 

On arrival, the Waldorf Astoria Ras 

Al Khaimah really is an extraordinary 

impressive sight: enormous, regal and 

capped with golden domes. Equally 

striking is the size of the King Junior 

Suite, which feels more apartment than 

room like, so much so that I had to 

significantly raise the level of my voice to 

be heard from its entrance hall. Yes, that’s 

right, an entrance hall. 

Endless sea views are yours to drink in 

from an expansive terrace, but with just 

24 hours at the resort we were keen to 

hit the pool and beach — both, as you’ll 

have guessed by now, gargantuan. In 

fact, the beach is by far the country’s 

most impressive. So large, that in the 

time it takes you to cross the sand and 

reach the lapping waves, you’ll be a few 

chapters into your holiday read. 

The benefit of everything being supersized 

is that despite the large number of 

guests soaking up the sun and families 

splashing in the pool, we never once felt 

like the resort was crowded. It makes for 

a thoroughly relaxing getaway that feels 

far longer than its 24 hours, aided by 

excellent staff throughout. 

Dinner at sleek steakhouse Lexington 

Grill was the proverbial icing on the cake 

— a decadent, baked-to-order warm 

blue cheesecake, to be precise. The 

steaks top the bill: a fist-sized fillet with 

seared-in juice and ample flavour, and 

a hulking rib-eye dry-aged on site (this 

is the only UAE restaurant housing the 

necessary set up to air-dry its beef). 

A meal fit for a king-sized appetite 

made for a great night’s sleep, which 

it was until the bedside alarm clock 

sounded at 6am. The work of a 

mischievous previous guest? Perhaps. 

But it did afford extra time for the kids 

to order a second stack of buttermilk 

pancakes at breakfast, and for me to 

further indulge my midlife crisis in the 

garish green-striped speed machine. 

Opposite: The Aston Martin Rapide AMR 

This page from top: Surf and turf served 

up at Lexington Grill Sea; sea views from 

the King Junior Suite – both at Waldorf 

Astoria Ras Al Khaimah 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL 

STAYCATION 

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel 

Unwind to regal views of the Arabian Gulf 

ROOMS AND SUITES 

Fit for royalty, luxury is the hallmark of 

this Palm Jumeirah hotel, evident in each 

of its 279 rooms (including 36 suites) and 

297 studio and one-bedroom serviced 

apartments. Check into the spacious 

Royal Suite (Queen Elizabeth), which 

covers an area of 146 square metres and 

enjoy The Royal Service, where a personal 

butler will cater to your every whim while 

you relax in the exclusive Royal Lounge. 

THE FOOD 

This British themed hotel leaves no 

shortage of choice when it comes to 

stylish gastronomy options, as there is a 

wide array of exquisite restaurants sure 

to whet the appetite. Voted one of 

Dubai’s top 10 Indian restaurants, the 

Mughal-inspired Khyber features a spice 

laden round-up of authentic Indian 

cuisine, while West 14th Steakhouse 

serves up quality cuts. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

Whether you are planning a relaxing 

break with friends, or are making the 

most of the weekend as a family, you 

won’t be bored here. Every experience 

is tailor made, with an emphasis on 

creating special memories – something 

the hotel has coined 'the art of fine 

moments'. What's more, little 

staycationers, aged five to 12 will be 

entertained all day at DUKESY Kids Club. 

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit royalhideaway.com 


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SOFITEL ABU DHABI 

CORNICHE 



Includes: Stay 1 night in a Classic 

Room with breakfast. 


The Cove Rotana Resort, Ras Al Khaimah 

How to book 

By calling dnata on 

+971 4 316 6666 

By stepping into a dnata outlet 

or by visiting dnatatravel.com 

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata 

newsletter and receive more offers direct to your 

inbox. T&Cs apply. 


THROUGH 

THE LENS 

Peleș Castle, Romania 

"Throughout my travels in 

Eastern Europe, this is by far 

the most beautiful castle I have 

ever encountered. Located in 

the Carpathian Mountains, 

near Sinaia, I managed to find 

a local driver to take me there 

where I spent the entire day 

exploring the countryside of 

Romania. I must have been 22 

years old at the time and I was 

travelling solo across Europe. 

I had previously ventured a 

little further east to Russia on 

a whirlwind week in Moscow, 

but something about the allure 

of Romania's countryside, and 

how it's one of the lesser visited 

countries in Europe, lured 

me in. It remains one of my 

favourite destinations to date." 

Travel photographer 

Brooke Saward loves to 

travel because: "I get to see 

the world through the eyes 

of the different people I 

meet." @worldwanderlust, 

worldofwanderlust.com 

EMAIL US YOUR BEST 

TRAVEL PHOTOS 

in high-res jpeg format, along 

with the stories behind them to 

habiba@hotmedia.me and you 

may end up being featured 

on this page 


Now win! 

DIGITAL 

BE OUR TRAVEL 

COMPANION 

Stay up-to-date with all that’s 

happening on our social channels 

and join in the conversation by 

sharing your experiences. Here’s 

where you can find us… 

@worldtravellerme 

Double tap our dreamy 

destination shots and tag 

us in your images for a chance to 

feature on our wall. 

@WorldTravellerME 

Stay up to date with travel 

stories as we post them. 

@WTravellerME 

Make the most of your 

280-character allowance 

by sharing your best travel 

moments with us. 

#WorldTravellerME 

A sublime stay at Sheraton 

Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa 

Surrounded by a shimmering turquoise lagoon, pristine white sandy beaches 

and swaying palms, this five-star paradise beckons with its tempting array of 

watersports, including diving, snorkelling, boating, sailing, jet skiing and more. 

Just 15-20 minutes from Velana International Airport, it is home to 176 dreamy 

hotel rooms, beach bungalows and overwater villas, many with private pools, as 

well as seven restaurants and bars and a luxury spa. To find out more and to enter, 

visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply). 

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 

Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, 

inspire your next trip… 

1The Knowledge. 

Read our handy 

how-tos, from 

getting to grips with 

travel insurance to 

helping kids beat jet 

lag, and more. 

2Staycations. 

Take a peek 

inside these top 

hotels and resorts on 

your doorstep, and 

then book your next 

mini break. 

3Insider Guides. 

Check out our 

in-the-know 

travel edits of some 

of the most popular 

holiday destinations 

on our radar. 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Suite dreams 

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a 

suite that has a character and style all of its own 

Ocean View 

Pool Villa 

Mandarin Oriental, Sanya 

Wake up to serene views of the 

South China Sea inside this 

two-storey mountainside villa, 

designed to showcase its totally 

tropical setting on Hainan Island. 

Complete with two bedrooms (one 

up, one down) you can master the 

art of laid-back beach chic here. 

Simply throw open the ground 

floor doors to your private garden 

with infinity pool and unwind as 

the balmy breeze washes over you. 


19 - 28 SEPTEMBER 

PHENOMENAL FAMILY FUN AND 

AWESOME ENTERTAINMENT FOR 

KIDS OF ALL AGES IS COMING 

TO THE UAE CAPITAL 

THE NICKELODEON 

KIDS CHOICE AWARDS 

 

20 SEPTEMBER 

Abu Dhabi National 

Exhibition Centre 

PINKFONG BABY 

SHARK LIVE MUSICAL 


Gallery A & S, Manarat Al Saadiyat 

THE WORLD OF 

NICKELODEON 




EXPO-SCIENCES 

INTERNATIONAL 




MEGA SHOPPING DEALS 

HOTEL OFFERS AND 

ENTERTAINMENT EXTRAVAGANZAS! 

Abu Dhabi Calendar 

adfamilyweek.ae 

Organised by the Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi

Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, 

is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for 

a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, 

over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, 

a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, 

as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

World Traveller September 2019

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