Nomad Zanzibar 2019

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE 

ISSUE 17| FREE COPY 

ZANZIBAR 

THE SPICE ISLAND 

TALES OF 

STONE TOWN 

UNDERWATER 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

A FAMILY HITS 

THE ROAD

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5


ED’S NOTE 

The monkey that stole my Ethiopian coffee beans 

When I was six years old, I asked my dad to 

bring me some snow on a trip back from 

London. 

“How am I going to carry that back 

here?” he asked, chuckling in bemusement. 

Gee...perhaps get a tiny little portable freezer just so as to 

please your only daughter? Needless to say, the only thing he 

brought me from that trip was several pretty dresses. 

I remember my parents, my mom especially, always being 

collectors. She had this large tin that was packed with coins 

brought back from her travels, the fridge was always dotted 

magnets from exotic places and don’t even get me started on 

her collection of Indian fabrics. As I go on more trips myself, 

I am realizing that I’m slowly plunging into this same sunken 

place, never mind that I’m actually a bit of a minimalist 

especially with spaces like my apartment. 

It’s not always the most practical souvenirs either. I never 

think, “I actually need a wine cork, and this hand carved one 

from Ubud will be just perfect.” Oh no no no. I am drawn 

to that heavy beaded dinosaur stuffed with ashes from an 

indigenous tree, blessed by the ancestors of that land and 

said to cure things like overthinking, lactose intolerance and 

maybe even infertility. Never mind that it’s probably going to 

be way above my weight limit at the airport, and the “ashes” 

might be flagged as some illegal substance that gets me 

locked up in the next country. 

I have prized souvenirs, too, like an antique, bohemian, 

Morocan coffee set that I snagged from the owner of some 

hole-in-the-wall restaurant that I convinced to sell to me. My 

box of Ethiopian coffee beans was stolen from the table in 

my hotel room by a colobus monkey who proceeded to jeer 

at me from the top of a baobab tree all afternoon. I recently 

got spiced tea combos from a Zanzibari spice farm, mixes 

like cardamom-mango-and-lemongrass. All these purchases 

consciously made by me yet I don’t even like tea or coffee. 

Food can make for great souvenirs too, and some of my 

favourites to receive have been Swiss chocolates, Turkish 

baklava and dates from Oman. Ever notice, though, how 

much easier it is to splurge on overpriced goods when you’re 

paying in foreign currency? 

My most-recent purchase comes from the streets of Stone 

Town which we traveled to for this issue. I spotted various 

gentlemen playing a heated game of Bao on the streets and 

bought a set that’s been sitting on my coffee table for three 

weeks now - I am yet to even Google how to play it. For you, 

however, souvenirs come by way of all the exciting stories 

and photographs shared in this issue. 

wattaonthego 

Wendy Watta 

NOMAD ISSUE. 17 · APRIL/MAY 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU 

CONTRIBUTORS SIMON MARSH, LEROY BULIRO, ANYIKO OWOKO, JACK WOOD, SAMANTHA DU TOIT, FRANCES WOODHAMS, FAITH KANJA 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, SAM VOX, NICK DALE, SUSAN MOLLOY 

DIGITAL, MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, LEROY BULIRO, JANE NAITORE, FRED MWITHIGA, ANGELA OMONDI 

SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO 

NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica 


COVER IMAGE: 

STONE TOWN, ZANZIBAR 

SHOT BY BRIAN SIAMBI 

APR 

MAY 

2019 

12 

12. TOP SHOTS 

This month’s featured photographers capture a striking sunset in 

the wild and a charismatic gentleman in Lamu’s Old Town. 

18. NEWS 

Africa’s largest ferris wheel is launched at Two Rivers mall, an 

Ethiopian Airlines flight crashes shortly after take off and a 

wildfire rages through Mt Kenya. 

25 

20. WHATS ON 

From a wine extravaganza to this year’s Rhino Charge, find a 

round-up of must-attend events this season. 

9. GET TO KNOW: NAI NAMI 

Who better to show one the streets of downtown Nairobi than 

the kids who used to live in those very streets and had to have 

their smarts about them to survive? 

22. GLOBETROTTERS 

Underwater photographer Jahawi Bertolii talks about his 

time spent diving into the depths of the ocean in Sri Lanka to 

document marine life with the aim of shedding a light on their 

conservation. 

22 

54. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS 

Biko Adema is a renowned rugby sevens player who’s traveled 

the world and stolen the hearts of numerous sports fans in the 

process. Take a peek inside his carry-on bag for items he likes to 

bring on trips. 


CONTENTS 

FEATURES 

30-42 

30. TALES OF STONE TOWN 

Get lost with us in the maze-like streets of this charming historic 

town. Find everything you need to plan for your visit, from 

insights from our recent trip to secret insider know-how. 

36. ISLAND IDYLL 

Said to be Zanzibar’s most-popular beach, Nungwi is always 

abuzz, understandably so. In between its beach strip with the 

array of hotels, read all about a favourite find, Kilindi Zanzibar, 

coupled with a parasailing adventure crowned by swimming with 

turtles. 

40. WHERE TO STAY 

From North to South and East to West, a round-up of places to 

stay whatever the beach you’re looking to explore. 

46. SPOTLIGHT ON: FLIP FLOPI 

The Flipflopi dhow sets off on a highly anticipated overseas 

expedition sailing from Lamu to Zanzibar with a bid to create a 

plastic revolution. 

48. ROAD TRIPS: A FAMILY HITS THE ROAD 

Exploring ideas of where to go, Simon Marsh decides that a road 

trip up North, well beyond the usual tourist trail, might be a fun 

and unique way to spend a couple of weeks with his family. 

52. SPOTLIGHT: KIMANA HOUSE 

Wandering around the beautiful, now-renovated four rooms of 

Kimana House, it is hard to believe that at the turn of 2018, it 

was still a dark and dreary space with ghastly tinted windows 

and a questionable choice of paint. 

REGULARS 

52 

25. KENYAN TRAVELER 

Impressed by the mukeke, drums and jogging in Burundi, Anyiko 

Owoko writes that this has been her first time traveling to a place 

whose culture challenged her to learn more about her own. 

28. NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

When a little warthog is discovered along a river, and with no 

mother in sight, Samantha Du Toit and her kids quickly take her 

in, but the joy this piglet brings might just be short lived. 

50. BUDGET PICK: ROCKY ECO LODGE 

Most travel-loving Nairobians are no strangers to Naivasha, a 

place which, at the very least, has served as a pit-stop as you 

leave or drive back to the capital. In this town, Leroy Buliro finds 

a spot perfect for anyone traveling on a tight budget. 

56. LAST WORD:WALKING TOUR 

Hamid takes visitors on a four hour walking tour of Stone Town, 

but will they really brave the heat for that long? 



CONTRIBUTORS 

WE ASK OUR CONTRIBUTORS WHAT THEIR BEST OUT-OF-TOWN FOOD SPOTS ARE... 

SAMANTHA DU TOIT 

Notes from the bush, Page 26 

As a child my family loved picnics, and I can 

name many a shady tree where we stopped 

en route to a safari destination to have our 

egg sandwiches and coffee. But when asked 

to name a favourite non-picnic spot it would 

have to be the balcony of Nautilus Restaurant 

on Kilifi Creek. Set up on stilts, not much 

can surpass eating fresh tuna carpaccio with 

a cold glass of white wine while watching 

dhows sail by. 

LEROY BULIRO 

Globetotters, Page 22 

Nothing beats digging into some really 

good food while in a serene atmosphere that 

truly calms the mind. We had just finished 

exploring the amazing Tsavo East National 

Park and while driving along the coast, 

made a stop at Osteria Restaurant, right by 

the ocean’s shores in Malindi. That warm 

ocean breeze accompanied by a classic 

cheesy Italian pizza was hands down the 

highlight of the journey. 

SIMON MARSH 

A family hits the road, Page 48 

I always look forward to visiting Kobe 

in Watamu; it has a unique mixture of 

great ocean views, a laid back vibe and 

outstanding cuisine with a seafood focus. 

Large prawns with garlic are cooked to 

perfection and accompanied by tender 

calamari and the catch of the day, which just 

melts onto the fork. I like to combine with a 

glass of chilled pinot grigio and some finely 

chopped chillies, and the result is euphoric! 

GET TO KNOW: NAI NAMI 

in the CBD. After the usual pleasantries were 

exchanged, we set off for Nairobi Railway 

Station, a place known to many as a bus stop 

with matatus heading to different parts of the 

city. Kissmart led the way with one guest while 

the other guest, our editor, walked behind with 

Mrembe. The other two guides then trailed 

behind, possibly for security. 

The concept of Nai Nami (Swahili for 

‘Nairobi with me’) is rather genius: who 

better to show one the streets of downtown 

Nairobi than the kids who used to live in 

those very streets and had to have their 

smarts about them to survive? The company 

currently employs seven guides, all former 

street kids, and using strengths such as 

storytelling and entertaining which they have 

honed naturally over the years, gives them an 

opportunity to make a better living. 

Their walking tours have so far been well 

received, with over 2,000 guests from over 

75 countries having signed up within one 

year. When the Nomad team got an invite to 

check out the city from co-founder Gianmarco 

Marinello, we simply could not pass up the 

chance to get reacquainted with certain parts 

of Nairobi that we don’t get to visit as often 

as we’d like. 

We had been linked up with four guides; 

Mrembe, Kissmart, Cheddar and Donga, 

and on the said day, met up right outside 

the Hilton Nairobi, a pretty central location 

Mrembe launched into his life story, talking 

about how he ended up on the unforgiving 

streets of Nairobi as a child and had to 

raise himself by doing odd jobs such as 

collecting plastic from rubbish heaps. When 

he hit puberty, this soon gave way to theft, 

a decision that led to his best friend being 

gunned down at Bus Station. He himself was 

almost beaten to death by an angry mob 

when he was caught stealing. Their stories are 

much more complex than this space would 

allow, but we were so engrossed in them that 

we didn’t notice the two hours pass by, or 

how much distance we had covered walking 

to OTC, Riverside, Kariokor market where we 

got some souvenirs, down to Ngara and back 

up to Moi Avenue where we finally stopped 

for a hearty lunch at a kibanda. 

A suggestion is to ask for the itinerary 

beforehand, read up on the places then kick 

back and get immersed in the stories. 

www.nai-nami.com 


NICK DALE 

Instagram: @nickdalephotography 

There was a beautiful sunset and I took 

this shot using the settings: ISO 280, 

f/16 and 1/500. 

The most important factor for me when 

shooting this was the aperture as I 

wanted both the silhouette and sun to 

be sharp. I used a Nikon D850 and 

an 800mm lens perched on top of the 

bonnet of a safari truck! 

TIP: When taking this type of shot, it is 

important to keep the horizon very low 

in the frame. 


TOP SHOTS 


TOP SHOTS 

SUSAN MOLLOY 

Instagram: @whatsusansees 

As I walked through Lamu Town’s 

maze of alleyways and artistic 

doorways, meeting this charismatic 

gentlemen was one of my favourite 

moments. He welcomed me to chat 

with him in the shade for a while. 

Realistically, it was mostly us laughing 

at my terrible Swahili before I asked 

if I could take a few portraits. For me, 

this shot represents the beauty of an 

unhurried life lived in this friendly, 

coastal community. 

I took this shot with a Canon 5d Mark 

III and a Canon 24-70 mm F/2.8 lens. 


www.maasai.com 


TOP SHOTS 


BRIAN SIAMBI 

Instagram: @brian.siambi 

There was a beautiful morning light as we were 

driving out of Kimana Sanctuary at 7:00am. It was 

the clearest day to see Mt. Kilimanjaro so I got out 

of the car and started capturing it. A few metres 

away, we saw some commotion and dust in the 

air, and driving a little further on, encountered a 

herd of elephants. This curious female stood and 

looked straight at us and I quickly grabbed my 

camera and got it in frame with the mountain in the 

background. The birds were a lucky occurence in 

the shot 

Shot with the Sony A7 and 70-200mm 

at F7.1, ISO 160, and 1/320. 

TIP: Always have your camera on standby when 

in the wild. Nature is quick and you won’t always 

have a second chance to capture an image. 


NEWS 

AFRICA’S LARGEST FERRIS WHEEL 

LAUNCHED AT TWO RIVERS MALL 

This observation wheel dubbed “Eye of Kenya” is set to give 

one brilliant panoramic views of Nairobi’s expansive skyline. 

It is located at Two Rivers Mall along Limuru Road and boasts 

40 air-conditioned cabins that have a seat capacity of six 

passengers each. The Eye of Kenya is the tallest ferris wheel 

in Africa at 60m above ground, surpassing the Cape Wheel 

in South Africa which stands at 40m. Get to enjoy this iconic 

addition to the city’s attractions by paying Ksh 500 per person. 

The wheel does two revolutions which take a total of 14 minutes. 

ETHIOPIAN AIRLINES PLANE 

CRASHES SHORTLY AFTER 

TAKE OFF 

This devastating crash happened six minutes after 

take off, leaving no survivors when the Ethiopian 

Airlines Boeing 737 MAX 8 plane crashed while 

on its way from Bole International Airport in 

Ethiopia to Kenya’s Capital, Nairobi. Investigations 

into the cause of the accident are still on-going as 

several countries suspend the Boeing 737 MAX 8 

planes. The aircraft was carrying 149 passengers 

from at least 35 nationalities as well as eight 

crew members. Another plane of the same model 

was involved in a crash less than five months ago 

when a Lion Air flight crashed into the sea near 

Indonesia with nearly 190 people on board. 

WILDFIRE DEVASTATION IN MT. KENYA 

A multi-agency team successfully managed to put out a 

fire in Mt Kenya Forest. The week-long wildfire destroyed 

approximately 120,000 hectares of vegetation and killed 

wildlife. Mt Kenya region is an important water catchment 

area for Kenya and also hosts national parks and various 

conservancies. The inferno that reportedly started near Lake 

Ellis in Tharaka-Nithi County spread to parts of Embu, Laikipia 

and Kirinyaga counties. The Kenya Forest Service boss said 

investigations were underway to establish the cause of the fire 

but they were not ruling out poachers, illegal honey harvesters 

and bhang farmers as some of the possible causes. A big thank 

you to the environment and forests ministries, Kenya Defence 

Forces, British Army Training Unit, Tropic Air, Mt Kenya Trust, 

Kisima Farm, Lewa Conservancy, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and 

the Rhino Ark for battling and successfully putting out the huge 

wildfires. 



WHAT’S ON 

SOKOKE FOREST MTB 

CHALLENGE 

This biking safari initiative is geared towards 

conservation of the exotic Arabuko Sokoke Forest 

in Watamu, Kilifi County. The race stands to offer a 

perfect blend of challenge and thrilling adventure... 

the picturesque sights and sounds are just a bonus. 

A 70 km challenge will take place on 4th May 

while a 15 km fun day will be held on 5th May. A 

great deal of cash prizes will be up for grabs. For 

more information and registration details, check out 

SOKOKE MTB CHALLENGE on Facebook. 

RHINO CHARGE 2019 

The Rhino Charge is an annual off-road 4×4 

competition held in Kenya to raise funds to 

support the activities of the Rhino Ark Kenya 

Charitable Trust, an NGO which works towards 

the conservation and protection of Kenya’s 

mountain range ecosystems. This year’s event 

takes place from 30th May to 2nd June. Tickets 

are only available from the Rhino charge 

website ticketing portal (www.rhino-charge.org), 

which closes on 24th May. General location 

details will be shared by the Clerk of Course 

during the pre-event briefing on 4th May 2019. 

The exact location will be revealed to registered 

ticket holders the night before the event; the 

venue is usually kept a secret. 

WINE EXTRAVAGANZA 

The second edition of the Wine and Beer 

Extravaganza will be held on Saturday April 

6, 2019 at the Leleshwa Getaway in Rongai 

from 11:00 am till late. The Wine tasting affair 

presents you with an opportunity to sample over 

50 wines, champagnes and gourmet food while 

also undergoing wine training and jamming 

to live DJ music. Build your wine knowledge 

and enjoy your glass, all while overlooking the 

Nairobi National Park. Entry is free. For more 

details, contact 0722 528 749. 


EASTER WEEKEND AT LANTANA GALU BEACH | DIANI BEACH 

Offering an array of fun activities for the whole family to enjoy 

From 19th to 22nd April 2019 

Free Scuba Diving Trials at the pool with Scubaduka 

Free Afternoon Activities for Children 

Free Kite Surfing Trials with the Kenya Kitesurfing School 

NOMAD MAGAZINE APRIL/MAY 2019 21 

+254 714 315 151 | info@lantana-galu-beach.co.ke | www.lantana-galu-beach.co.ke

CAPTURING THE 

UNDERWORLD 

Kenyan-Italian photographer Jahawi Bertolii talks to Nomad’s 

Leroy Buliro about his time spent diving into the depths of the 

ocean to document marine life with the aim of shedding a light 

on their conservation. 

How did you get into underwater 

photography? 

One day while filming a music video, we 

needed an underwater shot of someone 

jumping into a pool so I went in with a 

GoPro and my cousin, the talented director 

Phillipa Herrmann, joked that I should 

venture into underwater photography as 

there was no one doing it in Kenya. A 

few months later, I was sitting in my studio 

writing music for some beautiful footage 

when my frustration at being trapped in 

landlocked Nairobi came to its pinnacle. I 

decided that I wanted to be out there, within 

nature, filming, and not stuck in a studio. 

Once that project was completed, I moved 

to Thailand and enrolled in an underwater 

cinematography course…and that’s how I 

got behind a camera. 

Which has been your most exciting 

assignment yet? 

Hunting down photos of blue whales in 

Sri Lanka which is an interesting place for 

cetaceans because it is one of the few 

places that has a resident population of Blue 

Whales alongside many other species. The 

nutritious upwelling of plankton and krill 

at the drop off of the continental shelf in 

the south of the island makes it possible to 

support these massive creatures year round. 

For the best chance of photographing blue 

whales, Sri Lanka was the place to go. It is 

also a very culturally interesting place with 

superb waves for surfing. 

When did you finally get to see some blue 

whales in Sri Lanka? 

On our first day, we were woken up by the 

owner of the guest house where we were 

staying. “There are huge numbers of whales 

being spotted,” she said in excitement. We 

hadn’t planned anything for that day given 

that it was our first morning. The day was 

dark and cloudy and the water an eerie gun 

metal grey. The lack of sun meant that the 

krill were closer to the surface providing a 

huge feast for the whales; this was however 

not the best weather for photography. The 

whales were close to the coastline and 

when we found them, we realised that the 

boat was surrounded by at least 15 feasting 

blue whales; even with all their years of 

experience, the crew had never seen so 

many together! We spent some time just 

watching them to see their behaviour and 

once the captain was convinced it was safe, 

I decided to take the plunge. 

How was the first dive? 

The water was very murky and visibility was 

poor. Swimming on, I came across a bubble 

trail left by one of the whales that had a 6 

metre wide tail. Water visibility was bad and 

it was impossible to get a good shot. The 

water was 1 km deep and 500 metres long, 

cargo ships were moving silently through the 

mist... not the best conditions, so we called 

it a day and went back to shore deciding to 

wait a few more days for better conditions. 

This was actually one of the only times I’ve 

ever felt really uneasy in the water. 


GLOBETROTTERS 

Did you get another photo opportunity? 

Definitely. We spent the next week 

exploring the southern part of the island 

and when conditions improved, headed 

back out to the open ocean again. From 

radio chatters, we heard that the whales 

were quite far off the coast - about 30 

nautical miles - so we motored out into 

the blue which took about 3 hours. We 

eventually found one as the sun was getting 

low. The best way to get a chance to 

capture these gentle giants is to get in the 

water in front of them and let them swim to 

you. There were many unfruitful attempts. 

Knowing we had a long trip home, the 

captain said there was one more chance 

to get underwater. I jumped and swam as 

fast as I could to reach where I estimated 

the whale was heading only to see a huge 

tail disappear into the blue, for a moment 

I thought I had missed my opportunity 

and then I turned to see another whale 

coming straight at me following the first! 

The moment passed by in slow motion as 

the largest animal ever to have lived on 

this planet glided through the water in front 

of me before disappearing as quickly as it 

had arrived. 

What’s another set of memorable shots 

that you have ever taken? 

We filmed a short documentary in Lamu 

for the Lamu Marine Conservation Trust. 

A strong part of the narrative was turtle 

conservation and we needed a shot of 

a newly hatched turtle wading into the 

ocean for the first time. For months I went 

out to hatchings to try get the shot but 

ocean conditions were always either 

difficult or visibility was bad. Trying to 

follow something so small also proved 

impossible. One morning after 6 months, 

the sea was calm and visibility was good. 

I managed to find and stay with a baby 

turtle that had just hatched and filmed a 

sequence of its first few moments in the 

ocean, and that moment will stay with me 

forever. 

What lies next for you this year? 

I just received great news that a project 

I’ve been working on has been approved 

for a National Geographic Society grant, 

which is amazing and pretty much a 

dream come true! This will be part of a 

larger project we’re setting up called East 

African Ocean Explorers where we want 

to inspire a new generation of explorers 

who will champion marine conservation 

and act as an inspiration to young people 

in their communities. We want to provide a 

platform for passionate people to be able 

to explore and learn more about the ocean 

providing workshops, educational films and 

funding for young Kenyans from coastal 

communities to be able to get in the ocean; 

whether that’s learning how to snorkel, 

taking a diving course or going on whale 

watching trips. 


Tel: +254 (0) 723 697 346 || Email: info@mbh.co.ke 

www.msambweni-beach-house.com

A KENYAN TRAVELLER 

TALES FROM 

BUJUMBURA 

Impressed by the mukeke, drums and jogging in Burundi while 

in the country to attend a traditional wedding, Anyiko Owoko 

writes that this has been her first time traveling to a place 

whose culture challenged her to learn more about her own. 

As I plan my first trip to 

Burundi, where I am to attend 

a friend’s traditional wedding, 

I don’t know what to expect 

when I arrive because I 

haven’t heard much about 

the culture and food, the two 

things I’m always drawn to when I travel. I 

am however excited and ready to immerse 

myself in everything this landlocked country 

will have to offer. 

It’s a five hour flight from Nairobi and 

when we arrive at around 5:00 pm, which 

would typically be rush hour in Nairobi, it 

is so refreshing to be met by clear roads. 

Bujumbura is a small city and most of its 

residents don’t own personal cars. I am 

immediately drawn to its scenic hills and 

mountains, which I have thus far only seen 

featured in several popular music videos by 

the country’s local artists, an area of interest 

to me given that I often work with musicians. 

I quickly notice how the residents of 

Bujumbura are often out jogging at all times 

of the day, running up and down the curved 

turns of the city’s winding roads. Burundians 

actually have a long history of jogging 

tracing back to bleak times when the country 

was in war and conflict. For years, citizens 

used jogging as a means of expression 

against political oppression. Since then, 

jogging has been so ingrained into their 

culture that today it is a hobby for many 

Burundians. In recent years, the country’s 

President Pierre Nkurunziza banned jogs 

involving thousands of people. To jog in a 

large group, you must first join a jogging 

club or register with the government, after 

which you must pick one of the pre-approved 

venues. 

The culture and food are also quite 

rich and mind blowing. Burundians speak 

Kirundi, Swahili and French. Having been 

colonized by the French, some of those 

influences are still prevalent in their food 

and love for good wine. Whether you are 

at a five-star hotel or downtown, you must 

simply sample Lake Tanganyika’s Sleek lates 

fish known locally as mukeke, famed for its 

natural delicious flavour and the fact that it 

is only found in Lake Tanganyika. For lunch 

on our first day, we visit Roca Golf Hotel in 

the heart of Bujumbura for the best grilled 

Mukeke served in mouth-watering amaranth 

leaves locally known as lenga-lenga. 

Later in the evening we visit Bwiza area 

in downtown Bujumbura where we have 

michopo—Senegalese-style grilled goat 

meat served with a hot sauce made from 

red chillies, lime and spices. Both michopo 

and mukeke are often eaten with sticky ugali 

made from cassava flour. 

The traditional wedding I am attending 

at The Atrium, nestled right by the shores of 

Lake Tanganyika, is a very cultural affair. 

In the first phase, for instance, ladies dress 

up in traditional attire called imvutano. 

Entertainment is a lively number reminiscent 

of the Rwandese traditional dance, where 

the dancers raise their hands in regal 

postures as though they were royal birds. 

Traditional drumming is also so prominent 

here that you need to get a permit to be 

allowed to have drummers even at a private 

function. With a selection of over 25 big 

drums accompanied by a talented team of 

male drummers at my friend’s wedding, this 

is certainly a very prestigious function. 

My trip sparks several questions 

regarding my own culture and how much 

tradition still plays a role in our everyday 

lives back in Kenya. Upon returning, I’ve 

been curious to find out what people 

from my tribe, the Luo, would wear and 

do during traditional ceremonies like 

weddings. It has been surprising that my 

mother doesn’t know much about this 

because even during her heydays, she 

says ceremonies were pretty basic. This 

has been my first time traveling to a place 

whose culture challenged me to learn more 

about my own. 

Do you have a story you would like 

featured in this column? Email a detailed 

pitch to editor@nomadmagazine.co 


YUMMY 

WHITE 


56 Yummy. Food. Drink. Life

YUMMY 

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Information and reservations 

reservations@whitesandvillas.com +44 207 193 2716 

NOMAD MAGAZINE APRIL/MAY 2019 27 

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NOTES FROM THE BUSH 

SQUEAK THE 

WILD PIGLET 

When a little warthog is discovered along a river, and with no mother in 

sight, Samantha Du Toit and her kids quickly take her in, but the joy this 

piglet brings might just be short lived. 

It is very hard to reason with a 

three-day old warthog. 

Despite her tiny size, Squeak 

was a fierce and feisty piglet who 

definitely knew her own mind from 

the minute she arrived in our lives. 

One hot afternoon in January, 

the children and I were seeking out shade 

in their play/classroom tent when Kibai (our 

Maasai daytime watchman) came rushing up 

to us holding the tiny hog. She was squealing 

most indignantly as he hurriedly handed 

her over to me. I noticed she still had her 

umbilical cord, making her only a few days 

old at the most. 

Kibai had been walking along the banks 

of the river just upstream from camp and had 

found the little warthog on the side of the 

river amongst a troop of baboons. When 

no mother appeared after some time, he 

picked her up and brought her to us. The kids 

were excited, but we decided she needed 

to be given back to her mother as soon as 

possible. 

Without a moment’s thought we carried 

her back to where she had been found, with 

her objecting, gnashing her teeth and biting 

me at every opportunity. We placed her 

on the ground, where she collapsed into a 

heap, still squealing. We stepped back and 

hoped her mother would come. It was only 

then I realised that perhaps I should have 

thought this through as I was not sure what 

an angry mother warthog might do in such a 

situation. Placing the children behind a tree, 

we waited. No mother came. My heart was 

torn. 

What now? I have always believed 

that ‘Mother Nature knows best’, and have 

refrained from interfering with wild animals 

at all costs. Surely there must be some 

reason why this little creature is out here, 

away from the safety of a burrow? But the 

longer we stood there, the more chance it 

seemed that she might die alone there, as we 

watched. I looked at the children, looking to 

me to decide, and knew we could not walk 

away. We picked her up and took her back 

to camp. 

And so, the second ‘what now’ of the 

day hit me. How does one raise a new-born 

warthog? Many hours of internet searching, 

calling patient veterinary friends and family 

followed. The children did their best, making 

her a small ‘burrow’ in a wine cooler-bag, 

trying to decide how to keep her warm and 

helping with the feeding from a small syringe 

we had in the medical kit. 

It turned out that the general consensus 

was that goat’s milk was the best option, and 

Kibai kindly offered to provide an unlimited 

supply from his home every day. She was 

soon named ‘Squeak’ by the children, who 

worked around the clock to care for her. 

Well, the daytime clock at least. I took on the 

night time routine of three hourly feeds. 

It was a steep learning curve, not least 

learning to appreciate that wild animals 

are completely different from their domestic 

cousins. It should have seemed obvious 

perhaps, but Squeak was a very wild animal, 

accepting comfort and food only with her tiny 

feet firmly on the ground. We learned that, 

even in the days that followed where she had 

learned we were ‘family’ she still would not 

tolerate being picked up. That made sense as 

the only time in the wild this would happen is 

if she were being carried off in the mouth of a 

predator. 

Over the five days that followed, Squeak 

appeared at first to be doing well. However, 

on the morning of the sixth day, she was 

listless and weak. By the afternoon it was 

clear she was unlikely to make it through 

another night. I took her to a quiet place 

where she was too weak to object as I held 

her close until she slipped away. 

We still often talk about Squeak, and 

certainly feel we were privileged to have had 

her to care for and learn from, but I do hope 

that Mother Nature takes care of her own for 

the foreseeable future. 

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife 

conservationist, working with SORALO, a 

Maasai land trust. She lives with her husband, 

Johann, and their two children at Shompole 

Wilderness, a tented camp in the Shompole 

Conservancy. 


Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people 

in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy. 

Proud to be #1 of 21 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County 

For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com 

OlePangi.indd 1 02/04/2019 14:26 


30TH - 31ST MARCH 2019 

Great beer, food and company were all the rage at ‘The White Cap Big Brunch’ event which took place in Diani 

on the 21st & 22nd March. Restaurant managers, influencers & the White Cap team were all in attendance for 

the adventure filled brunch part of the White Cap Big Brunch series, all of which led to the Big Brunch weekend 

on the 30th & 31st of March, courtesy of Kenya Breweries Limited and Eatout Kenya. 

With some of the best restaurants in Nairobi & Mombasa participating, the weekend was filled with beer, laughs 

and brunch. If you missed out, have no fear: More adventures and brunch weekends are coming your way soon! 







8 Ways 

to do brunch right 

Get There Early 

there’s nothing worse than going late for brunch 

on an empty stomach and finding it packed. be the 

smarter one, grab the prettiest table and enjoy your 

brunch with no stress 

Cab It 

the white cap big brunch is probably going to be 

a boozy one, so make sure you’ve got your cab apps 

ready. drink responsibly 

Go In A Group 

sure, a romantic brunch could be a thing, but we 

believe that brunch is an experience for friends. grab 

your crew and make it a special day! 

Experiment 

yes, we know you have your usual that you pick every. 

single. time. but come on, it’s a special weekend! go 

outside your Comfort Zone 

Let the Sweet & Savoury Combine 

the best thing about brunch is how it’s a common 

ground for both. relish in it, it’s one of the few times 

you can! chicken wings with honey covered 

pancakes? yes! 

Enjoy Your White Cap 

COMPLETE YOUR BRUNCH WITH AN ICE- COLD WHITE 

CAP LAGER, PERFECT FOR WASHING DOWN ALL THAT 

DELICIOUSNESS. 

Leave A Review 

your review will definitely help others figure out 

where they should go so please, leave a review! 

Tip Well 

brunch can be a crazy time for servers, so show a 

little appreciation and tip well! 




TEXT: WENDY WATTA PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI 

TALES FROM 

STONE TOWN 


We are standing outside the Old Fort when Taib, with 

suspicious enthusiasm, launches into a colourful story about 

an Arab princess called Salme. Suspicious, because how 

someone can be so chipper in this heat is beyond me; I can 

already feel a migraine start to throb within the crevices of 

my brain thanks to the sun mercilessly hammering at it. As 

he drones on, pausing ever so slightly to adjust his kofia, I 

momentarily halt my frantic self-fanning antics as I am gently 

transported to a Stone Town of 1866, when this fort upon whose walls I now 

lean would have been used as a garrison and prison. Merchants, I imagine, 

would have been haggling about the price of a kilo of cloves, a teenage 

slave hopelessly marching behind his brother towards an uncertain tomorrow, 

an adventurer setting foot on ‘zinj-bar’ soil for the first time fresh off the boat 

from a faraway land, and for Princess Salme, utterly scared of the whispers 

in the palace and her brother the Sultan’s reaction to finding out that she was 

pregnant by their German neighbour. 

Shortly after, she flees this homeland having been rejected by her people 

for her choice in a lover. Once in Hamburg, her name is no longer Salme but 

Emily Ruete, and while she gets baptised as a christian, she secretly dreads 

going to church and adamantly refuses to eat pork. Through this woman’s 

story, 19th century Stone Town fascinates me because of how different the 

society and culture are from present day. I wonder what life would have 

been like for me, an African woman. Despite being born into vast wealth, the 

youngest of a Sultan’s thirty children, Salme still has to secretly teach herself 

how to write because this skill is not taught to women. Imagine, then, the 

policing of friends, fashion, marriage, entertainment, work and the works. 

I am drawn out of my reverie by a cat - these lanky felines that slink proudly 

along the verandahs, and when you come face to face, it is you that has to 

move out of the way. This being my second visit to Stone Town, hiring Taib 

to take us on a walking tour was a smart idea. My first visit, I’m afraid, was 

wasted, because I mostly wandered around the streets overwhelmed by the 

beauty with no real insight into the rich history. 

Much like Lamu Old Town, the pathways are narrow and maze-like, lined 

with curio shops and art dealers, and after a couple of turns, start to blend into 

one another in their similarity. Brightly coloured scooters whizz past. Women 

swathed in colourful kangas or beautiful buibuis gracefully sashay along with 

handwoven baskets in hand. Gentlemen perched on barazas play a complex 

board game of bao, the winner clapping animatedly and talking smack to his 

opponent, and I am so intrigued I that I buy a set. Distinguishing between the 

beautiful intricately carved Arab and Indian doors, some pastel and others 

with shiny golden brass studs, becomes a fun pastime. If a place ever so 

deserved to be called charming, it would be this town. I fall in love with its 

very essence, African, Arab, Indian, Persian and European influences distinct 

in everything from the people to the mosques, churches, bazaars, architecture 

and food. Stone Town is picture perfect, the heat notwithstanding. 

THE STONE TOWN LOW DOWN 

FOR COFFEE: JAW’S CORNER 

We were actually lost when we first wandered onto this street where four of 

the town’s winding alleys intersect, but we stayed for the people watching. It 

is hard to miss, distinguished by a large painting-on-the-wall of the poster of 

that classic 1975 Steven Spielberg movie. Here, a mzee brews strong, black, 

Arabic-style coffee in steel kettles balanced precariously over a small charcoal 

stove. The beverage is cheap and flows almost as freely as the gossip, and 

there is a high chance you will be roped into a debate about anything from 

football to the weather. Should you wish to call your online lover living 

somewhere in Sweden or Thailand, there is a long pole with an old phone and 

a cheeky sign announcing “free international calls”. 


ZANZIBAR 


FOR ICE CREAM: TAMU GELATERIA ITALIANA 

We may have only been in Stone Town for two nights but we stopped by this spot 

so much - at first to find solace from the heat but pretty soon like a pair of hopeless 

crackheads in need of a fix - that we were on a first name basis with the waitress. The 

walls are decked in photos from around town and the refreshing gelatos are made from 

real fruit. Local flavours include coconut, tamarind, hibiscus, passion and baobab. They 

were so addictive, in fact, that I walked from my hotel room in pajamas at 10:00pm to 

go get a scoop; a pathetic sight, I am certain, but my taste buds were quite pleased. 

FOR ZANZIBAR PIZZA: MR MANGO’S STAND AT FORODHANI GARDENS 

This is a glorious seafront night market bustling with tourists and locals alike, with 

numerous vendors selling local dishes all being cooked on the spot. The seafood is oh so 

seductively spread out, but because it’s not always refrigerated, to try these would be to 

set a date with food poisoning. You should however definitely try Zanzibar pizza, and 

Mr Mango’s stand is the place to go. To be honest, his signature mango-nutella combo 

is more like a crepe than a pizza, but it sure is downright delicious. To his left, a vendor 

sells freshly squeezed sugar cane juice to wash down your food with, and if you’re still 

hungry, because you’re a glutton, a lady to his right sells a spicy Zanzibar mix also 

known as urojo. We were told that this market is a tourist trap since the same food is 

much cheaper at Darajani, but I liked the vibe so much I didn’t mind the snare. If you’re 

here before sunset, entertainment will be by way of local boys diving from the perimeter 

wall into the sea below. 

FOR COCKTAILS: THE BEACH HOUSE 

This modern upscale bar and restaurant is said to have some of the best sunset views, 

but both times I’ve been there have unfortunately been after dark. It has a multicultural 

millennial staff and the menu offers an array of excellent gin-based cocktails infused with 

Zanzibar’s popular spices. On this visit, we sat on the outdoor terrace - the best spot in 

the house - where there was remix to the Game of Thrones theme song playing. Some 

local guys were playing a lively game of football on the sand below and after two ginpassion-and-saffron 

cocktails, I had to be held back to stop me from joining. 

FOR SPICES: JAMBO SPICE FARM 

Herbs and spices were initially introduced to Zanzibar by Portuguese traders from their 

colonies in India and South America in the 16th century. During the Omani rule, cloves 

were actually more valuable than their weight in gold. We drove for a little over 10km 

from the town center to an organic farm where we learnt how the spices got to the island, 

how they are grown as well as their uses, some of which we had never considered 

before. We were smelling, tasting and collecting spices like cloves, lemongrass, garlic, 

ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, vanilla, pepper, cardamom and more. I love using spices in 

my kitchen...cooking without any is like hosting a party with no music. I have only ever 

seen some of them ground, which made the tour all the more interesting. Fresh whole 

nutmeg for instance opens up like a jewellery box and the seed sits inside like an exotic 

ring, and I was just about to say yes to this unexpected marriage proposal until our guide 

told us that the spice is actually “like a viagra for women”, at which I very slowly backed 

away. It was only 10:00am for heaven’s sake. At the end of the tour we came to a stand 

selling packaged spices and soaps as well as interesting spiced tea combinations. We 

loaded up by the kilos. 


ZANZIBAR 

PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM VOX 

LOCAL KNOW-HOW 

What makes Stone Town a photographer’s 

paradise? 

It is naturally a very photogenic place, with 

its beautiful heritage buildings, the narrow 

streets and the beach (Forodhani). To me it’s 

a place of identity. I love the Swahili Arab 

culture which is my ethnic background. Here, 

I can learn more about my history and have 

a deeper understanding of our traditions and 

the people. 

What’s your go-to spot for lunch? 

Ma Shaa Allah Cafe or Lukmaan Restaurant 

which offer every day authentic Zanzibari 

dishes using an array of local spices. 

What are some hidden gems in Stone Town? 

Mrembo Spa is my little sanctuary when I 

need to rejuvenate and recharge. They use 

traditional remedies and natural product. My 

favourite masseuse is Asha who is legally 

blind but is amazing at what she does. 

There are also so many talented Zanzibari 

carpenters in town that create amazing 

woodwork but are often overlooked in the 

midst of all the imported souvenir stores. My 

favourites are Suleiman and his team inside 

the Old Fort. 

What are your go-to foodie spots around 

town? 

For breakfast, Foro Cafe at Forodhani 

Gardens because it’s inexpensive and 

the food is really good. Secret Garden at 

Emerson Spice is a great spot for lunch- the 

ambiance really transports you back in time. 

My favourite dish there is the 

coconut seafood curry. At Ma Shaa Allah 

Cafe, the prices are affordable and I love 

their Indian twist to Swahili food. 

What’s your go-to beach when you need a 

break from Stone Town? 

I like Kendwa beach because its picturesque 

although it can get very busy. I would go for 

Michamvi, Matemwe and Bwejuu. While the 

sea is tidal on the East Coast, it tends to be 

less crowded than the north coast. 

Any tips for first time visitors? 

Unless you’ve done considerable research 

beforehand, do a guided Stone Town tour 

with a registered company. It will give you a 

sense of direction and better understanding 

of the history and culture of Zanzibar. Spend 

at least two nights immersing yourself in the 

food and culture here before heading off to 

explore the rest of the archipelago. 

What’s your go-to beach when you need a 

break from Stone Town? 

A favorite is a hidden beach in 

Mwangapwani. It’s only there for a short 

period of time depending on the day and 

tide. The waters are beautiful and clear, and 

it’s a perfect spot for cliff jumping. 

Any insider tip you would like to share with 

someone visiting Zanzibar 

for the first time? 

Get lost, wander around and be present. If 

possible, get a local guide. Stone Town is 

one of those places with a deep history and 

culture and you could easily walk by vital 

landmarks without knowing their significance 

to the island. A local will help you 

understand the everyday life of the people. 

What’s your favourite place to photograph 

in Stone Town? 

I can never tire of Forodhani beach. To 

me, it’s the one place that brings the Island 

together, especially on weekends. I love 

seeing families come out in their beautiful 

matching clothes having traveled from 

nearby villages for a day out at the beach. 

Occasions like this are what makes this 

island special and I like being here to 

document it all. 

SAM VOX, 

Photographer 

HAFSA MBAMBA 

Owner, Grassroots Traveller 

(They set up our tours around Stone Town) 


ISLAND 

IDYLL 

Said to be Zanzibar’s most-popular beach, 

Nungwi is always abuzz, understandably so. 

In between its beach strip which stretches 

into Kendwa, amidst the array of hotels both 

grand and cheerfully cheap, Kilindi Zanzibar 

redefines luxury in this quaint fishing village. 

TEXT: WENDY WATTA PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI 

I“You can dance, you can jiiiive, having the time of your 

life...diggin’ the dancing queen!” 

mooch about the grand villa which is far too spacious 

for just me, singing embarrassingly off-key at the top 

of my lungs, certain no one will hear me because of 

how spread apart the 15 villas at Kilindi Zanzibar 

are. Carried away, I imagine I am Meryl Streep in 

Mamma Mia and jump onto the four poster bed 

with childlike glee then spring up as though on a 

trampoline, but quickly remember that I can’t do a split 

mid-air and this bed might break under my weight, in 

which case, it wouldn’t matter how understanding the 

people here are - I would have to pay. I have been playing 

Abba’s Dancing Queen in a loop ever since finding out that 

Kilindi Zanzibar was built as a private home for one of the 

bandmates before being converted into a resort. It is now 

under the management of Elewana Collection, and for that I 

am glad. 

Bosomed within the forested folds of Nungwi, it is hard not to 

love this property. The slatted door of my palatial bedroom 

opens up to a full-moon plunge pool which overlooks an 

indigenous forest that stretches out to waters docked by 

various traditional double-outrigger canoes called ngalawa. 


ZANZIBAR 



Here, you can 

wear a bikini and 

laze by the beach 

all day and yet 

a monkey might 

swing by your 

room from the 

bush to say hello, 

and I like that 

juxtaposition.

ZANZIBAR 

Here, you can wear a bikini and laze by the beach all day and 

yet a monkey might swing by your room from the bush to say hello, 

and I like that juxtaposition. The white-washed pavilions are very 

European; Scandinavian minimalism meets the curved roofs of 

Santorini’s domes complete with bougainvillea flowers in full bloom 

along the pathways. 

The bathroom housed in its own building comes with a rainshower 

and sink-with-a-view, and is big enough to host a small conference. 

As I potter between this and my room, clothes quickly become 

burdensome. Keen to seek refuge from the heat after every trip from 

the beach, my only predicament is whether to use the fan or let trade 

winds do the cooling. 

Guests are assigned their very own butler and we get Victoria 

who comes with heaps of the renowned Swahili hospitality and a 

side of wit. Dinner on the first night is right by the T-shaped pool, and 

just when we thought things couldn’t possibly get better than that, 

on the second night, we get our own secluded spot by the beach. 

The meals here are absolutely divine. Ugali is elevated way above 

its pay grade in an amuse bouche that mashes in potatoes and tops 

that off with a flavour-packed beetroot puree. The seafood is fresh 

and whispery with local spices, and Victoria always seems to appear 

with a drink as soon as you think about one (she does this throughout 

our stay, and I am completely convinced that she’s a mind reader). 

After dinner, a guard pushes the pan with the log fire even 

closer to the water and Victoria brings out bean bags to snuggle 

in. Looking out at the stars and the sea glimmering in the shadows, 

if an experience ever so deserved to be called magical, this would 

be it. Conversation wanes as we drift in and out of slumber before 

everyone retreats to their villas at 1:00pm. If we had no activities 

planned for the following day, we would have been content to sleep 

on this beach till the morning. In fact, I have now decided that Kilindi 

is where I will be coming for my honeymoon. I suppose I still need to 

meet the guy first, but let’s not get caught up on the minor details. 

Along with Kendwa, the fishing village of Nungwi is said to be 

Zanzibar’s most-popular beach, understandably so. The water is such 

a saturated turquoise that should you only see it in a postcard, you 

would think it were fake. It is also perfect for swimming in whatever 

the time; there are no tides. The sunsets are spectacular enough to 

turn even the most articulate poet into a baby-talking goop. The 

shoreline is always docked by dhows and if you visit in the morning, 

you can always chat up the fishermen for tales from the sea. It is 

idyllic living, and we were warned that it would be crowded, if only 

because numerous hotels occupy the same stretch of beach from 

Nungwi to Kendwa. The only place where we saw a lot of people 

was however at the latter beach which has gained a reputation as 

the home of epic full moon parties. 

PARASAILING 

Zanzibar Parasailing run by Johann, a South African who 

retired from the corporate world to open this busy water sport/ 

accommodation/ party central combo, is set in Kendwa which 

is only a five minute walk from Kilindi Zanzibar. After cheerful 

pleasantries are exchanged, we hop onto a small raft which takes 

us to the parasailing boat. I am then harnessed and tethered to a 

bright red parachute and from the back deck of the boat, the rope 

is released and I take flight into the sky like a bird. Gliding gently 

behind the boat to a height of about 250m, wind against my face 

and with curious swimmers and sunbathers gazing up at me in the 

distance, I can’t help but think that this is exactly what my drone 

would be recording if I launched it up these northern shores. “I’m 

flying, Jack!” Literally. No previous experience is necessary and a 

flight lasts about 10 minutes which, when you’re cruising mid-air, 

feels like an hour. It costs about $90 for a tandem flight and $130 

for a solo flight. Visit www.zanzibarparasailing.com to find out what 

other water sports are offered here. The vibe back at their dive 

center is so lively that I could have hung out with this community for 

the rest of the afternoon, but that cold hibiscus cocktail at Kilindi 

wasn’t going to drink itself. 

CONSERVATION: SWIMMING WITH TURTLES 

I have been so eager to swim with these turtles all afternoon, but 

now, finally face to face with them while crouching at the entrance 

to this tidal pond watching them paddle hard in a race to reach the 

food which has just been thrown in by one of the attendants, I am 

unexpectedly timid. First of all, their number is overwhelming. I can 

spot at least 15 of all sizes and ages. After a little coaxing from 

Nomad’s photographer Brian, who has himself settled on paying 

only the $7 required to simply watch and feed them (it costs $10 to 

swim with them), I decide to take a deep breath and walk into the 

cold water. 

Eager to feed on the seagrass which has just been thrown in and 

perhaps a little keen to play as well, the turtles come rushing towards 

me and I can suddenly feel their flippers and shells rubbing against 

my skin under the water as they swim about. I find their touch ticklish 

and can’t help but laugh and squeal every time they brush against 

me. Once I get comfortable, however, there is no getting me out. 

Looking at these gentle creatures, it is hard to imagine them being 

caught in fishermen’s nets which is how a lot of them often die, or 

being hunted for their meat. Places like Baraka Natural Aquarium 

exist to provide a refuge for rescued turtles and are often involved in 

research, conservation and re-release into the sea. We are the only 

guests at the pond and I would thereby suggest visiting later in the 

day after the crowds have wandered off. 


WHERE TO STAY 

NORTH COAST 

Photography: Brian Siambi and Respective Properties 

ZURI ZANZIBAR 

Choose from 55 west-facing bungalows, 

suites and villas overlooking the beach and 

close to the mesmerising azure waters of 

the sea. Designed to provide the ultimate 

in coziness, equipped with a mixture of 

contemporary and local furniture and 

decorated with African artwork, they come 

with an option of outdoor showers, jacuzzi, 

a private stretch of beach and more, a 

unique experience of indoor/outdoor living. 

Zuri Zanzibar offer a fusion of European, 

African, Arabic and Indian cuisine, creating 

a rainbow of sensational flavours at their 

three restaurants and four bars. Everything 

from yoga, wellness, a swimming pool and 

beach to spice gardens, an indoor and 

outdoor “wild fitness” gym area and a 

library are at your disposal. Rates on request. 

www.zurizanzibar.com 

FLAME TREE COTTAGES 

This small, independent, family-run 

beachfront hotel lies on the beautiful 

turquoise coastline of Nungwi. It is ideally 

situated for swimming, snorkeling and diving. 

Mnemba Atoll, just a short boat trip away, is 

one of the best diving spots in the world. If 

you fancy some dynamic hatha and vinyasa 

flow yoga, head to the rooftop for a sunrise 

or sunset session- the sunsets here are some 

of the most spectacular on the island, and 

you can also settle for taking it all in from 

the cozy beach bar. The hotel lies within a 

beautiful private tropical garden and has a 

range of rooms and cottages to choose from. 

Low season offers start at $160 for direct 

bookings only. www.flametreecottages.com 

MAKUTI ROOF ON THE BEACH 

A room high up on stilts under a traditional 

Makuti roof and right on Kendwa Beach in 

front of Zanzibar Parasailing Clubhouse with 

great views over the Kendwa bay. It is an 

open air room with coconut wooden walls to 

protect your privacy, and has a double bed, 

sofa, table and locker. The front side is open 

which looks directly to the sea. The room 

is part of a watersports centre which has 

a bar and kitchen facilities and bathrooms 

are communal, shared with clients of the 

watersports centre, and are situated towards 

the back of the clubhouse away from the 

room. An unobstructed view of the sunsets 

and beach is the main attraction here. Rates 

from $30. Bookings only via airbnb. 


ZANZIBAR 

STONE TOWN 

ZANZIBAR SERENA HOTEL 

The hotel is comprised of two historic 

buildings designed in traditional Swahili 

style, a lavish retreat that captures the 

elegance of a grander era since passed. An 

ambience of relaxed sophistication has been 

created in each of the 51 rooms and suites, 

with wood-framed louver doors opening onto 

private balconies with unobstructed views of 

the ocean. Cool white walls, high-ceilings 

and crisp royal blues and whites give a sense 

of Zanzibar’s coastal serenity and charm. 

The rooftop Terrace Seafood Restaurant offers 

freshly-caught seafood and extraordinary 

views of the bay while weekly authentic 

Swahili banquets can be enjoyed by the pool 

at Baharia Restaurant. Masahani Bar, on the 

other hand, offers signature cocktails and live 

performances by local Taarab bands. 

www.serenahotels.com 

EMERSON SPICE 

This boutique hotel consists of three adjoining 

World Heritage site buildings in the exotic 

Kasbah of Zanzibar’s Stonetown. Two of 

the facades face a quaint square at the 

end of historic Tharia Street, a principal 

thoroughfare for walking tours of the city. 

The third façade looks toward the Anglican 

Cathedral and the slave market. Nestled 

among the rear facades is a squared 

private courtyard containing an ancient 

well. Dubbed the soul of Zanzibar. The 

main building, an inspired and lovingly 

restored merchant’s house has eleven stylishly 

furnished rooms structured around an airy 

central courtyard. The rooftop ‘Tea House’ 

hosts one of Stonetown’s most renowned 

restaurants offering a stylish ambiance amidst 

the sound of the calls to prayer from the 

town’s numerous mosques. Book via 

www.emersonspice.com 

PARK HYATT ZANZIBAR 

The hotel has a new and old building, the 

latter being dubbed the Mambo Msiige 

mansion which dates back to 1847 when it 

was built for a wealthy Omani tradesman. 

A good example of a traditional Zanzibar 

mansion, it had various functions in the 

following years before being transformed into 

the luxury hotel it is today. The new building, 

also known as Zamani Residence houses 

the rooms and restaurant characterized 

by towering ceilings with wooden beams, 

skylights and golden brass chandeliers. The 

owner is an avid art lover and collector and 

the hotel is therefore dotted with several 

unique pieces. For dining, the outdoor patio 

is the best place to enjoy the buffets while 

taking in all the boats and dhows in the sea. 

www.hyatt.com 


ZANZIBAR 

EAST COAST 

ZANZIBAR WHITE SAND 

LUXURY VILLAS & SPA 

This is a luxury boutique hotel located on 

the pristine sands of Paje beach. The large 

property has only 11 villas to ensure maximum 

privacy for each guest. A stay here is as 

much about enjoying a cocktail on the rooftop 

champagne bar as it is about kitesurfing in 

the sunset or indulging in a massage at the 

spa after a day of sunbathing. They apply 

sustainable policies within the resort including 

recycling and growing organic fruits and 

vegetables in their plantation, which are 

used in our restaurant for a controlled quality. 

Whether you are looking for a romantic 

getaway or family holiday, the mission here 

is to ensure memorable stays and the utmost 

comfort in a serene and stunning setting. Rates 

available on request. 

www.whitesandvillas.com. 

TULIA ZANZIBAR 

Opened in 2015, this independent resort 

is tucked away in the quiet and pristine 

Pongwe beach and to ensure the utmost 

privacy, the property has only 16 villas. The 

wish of the Czech owners was to incorporate 

traditional Zanzibari pavilions with chic, 

modern elements. Choose from seafront luxury 

villas, royal villas with a jacuzzi or a garden 

bungalow with a partial sea view, all bathed 

in soft, natural light. Cobia Restaurant offers 

delicious meals crafted around international 

cuisine with the added magic of coastal 

ingredients, all done by Executive Chef Mgeni 

Mzima. Staying at Tulia Zanzibar with its lush 

botanical garden is not just about relaxation 

but unique experiences and never-ending 

adventure, all dictated by you. Rates available 

on request through 

www.tuliazanzibar.com 

ZANZIBAR BANDAS 

With unrivalled views of the Matemwe 

lagoon, these five all-natural, thatched beach 

bungalows are spacious and built using 

traditional, eco-friendly materials. They feature 

beautifully finished, hand-crafted furniture 

including four poster beds and safari chairs. 

Meals are prepared by local chefs Hashim, 

Heri and Finiko and can be enjoyed on your 

veranda or candle-lit dinner by the beach. 

Built on stilts and on a platform using only the 

ancient building materials of palm frond and 

coco wood, these remote and eco-friendly 

beach bandas offer a truly exceptional 

experience on the island of Zanzibar. You can 

walk along the majestic palmed-lined beach 

for miles in both directions, only occasionally 

coming across other people. Rates average 

$100, to be confirmed on enquiry 

www.zanzibarbandas.com 


@serenahotels 

Spice up your life … Experience Zanzibar Serena Hotel 

P.O. Box 4151, Zanzibar 

Telephone: +255 24 22 33 051/ +255 77 44 40 010/ +255 77 44 40 011 / +255 24 22 33 587 

Email address: zanzibar@serena.co.tz 


ZANZIBAR 

SOUTH COAST 

THE RESIDENCE ZANZIBAR 

This resort lies in Kizimkazi within a lush, 

forested 32-hectare estate where five-star 

luxuries sit harmoniously alongside nature’s 

untouched beauty. Feel your spirits soar amid 

extensive tropical gardens that meet with 

powder-soft white sand lapped by the crystal 

clear waters of the Indian Ocean. Inspired 

by the island’s eclectic cultures, it blends 

modern comforts with Swahili, Omani, 

British and Indian influences. Indulge in the 

privacy of the spacious villas, attended on if 

you wish by your own butler. Enjoy carefree 

days relaxing by your private pool, on the 

beach or exploring the gardens on foot or by 

bicycle. Savour the taste of the Spice Island’s 

unique blend of cultures and cuisines, and 

the pleasure of sensational spa treatments. 

Rates available on enquiry via 

www.cenizaro.com 

AYA BEACH BUNGALOWS 

The resort has 12 rooms and is located 

on the southwest coast of the island in 

Kizimkazi. It has small makuti bandas, all 

rooms face the sea and are nestled within 

a garden with plenty of coconut trees and 

shrubs. It sits in the historical district, only 

2.8km from Kizimkazi Dimbani Mosque. 

Kizimkazi is a fishing village and the catch 

ranges from kingfish and octopus to tuna, 

lobster and crab. Fresh fish is therefore 

readily available and is prepared daily at 

the restaurant along with an array of local 

dishes. The restaurant is perched on the 

edge of a small cliff overlooking the ocean, 

and has a laid back atmosphere, a perfect 

vantage point from which to enjoy incredible 

sunsets. Rates from $70. 

www.ayabeach.com. 

UJAMAA BEACH RESORT 

Set in Makunduchi, this relatively new 

resort was built by an NGO that works 

with international cooperation to help 

local communities in developing countries. 

Ujamaa translates to extended family, 

and this name was chosen because it 

represents the organisation’s wish to create 

opportunities for economic training and 

social development based on the principles 

of integration, respect and sharing. The 

place is quiet, overlooks the beach and is 

embraced by a wonderful tropical garden. It 

has eight bungalows and is great for families 

and large groups. The bar-restaurant, with 

its unique ocean view, offers an exquisite 

local and international cuisine and directly 

overlooks the pool and private beach. The 

cosy wellness centre offers moments of 

relaxation and also overlooks the sea. 

www.ujamaabeachresort.com 


The Emakoko || Telephone 0724156044 || emandant@emakoko.com 

www.emakoko.com

CONSERVATION 

SAILING 

THE 

SEAS 

Made from 100% recycled 

waste, the Flipflopi dhow sets 

off on a highly anticipated 

inaugural overseas 

expedition, an adventurous 

trip from Lamu to Zanzibar 

with a bid to create a plastic 

revolution. By Jack Wood 

T 

he buzz felt in Lamu on 

the day before the launch 

was palpable: there were 

community events, football 

matches, speeches, beach 

clean ups and my favourite 

– a children’s sailing race 

with dhows made from plastic bottles - all 

because a team of boat builders in Lamu had 

been crazy enough to create a world’s first, the 

Flipflopi, and sail it from their home in Kenya to 

neighbouring Tanzania – to engage people in 

an African borne ‘plastic revolution’ 

As the team gathered on the night before 

setting sail, the air was tense with anticipation, 

nervousness and downright excitement: we 

were a crew of 12 people from six nations 

ranging from Kenya to South Africa and 

beyond. Some of us had only just met and 

yet we were about to set off on a challenging 

500km journey from Lamu to Zanzibar aboard 

a vessel made from takataka. All concerns 

however dissipated when we all heaved up 

the mast for the first time, those of us with 

‘sedentary computer hands’ already feeling the 

burn; we had just hit the open seas! 

We headed right for Malindi, covering 130 

km over 14 hours. The constant enthusiasm 

from Captain Ali alleviated our fears around 

his recycled plastic creation. The sea carried a 

constant 8 foot swell and force 4-5 winds, but 

thankfully, Flipflopi sailed brilliantly. The first of 

many enthusiastic welcomes was on the beach 

at our first port of call, Che Shale, where we 

were greeted by many well-wishers and fellow 

plastic revolutionaries: the combination of this 

and the sense of achievement unified the team 

and set the tone for the entire expedition, one 

of shared values, determination and adventure. 

Flipflopi, so called because of the 30,000 

flip flops that festoon its hull, was created as 

a symbol of why single use plastic makes no 

sense. She was built as a vehicle to draw 

curiosity and smiles in order to engage people 

and show them that there are numerous 

ways to recycle plastic. To do that, we ran 

an ambitious schedule: hosting seven jampacked 

events in partnership with 50 local 

conservationists and recycling partners. At 

each stop we conducted practical recycling 

workshops, gave lessons to schoolchildren, 

engaged businesses and policy makers in 

presentations and talks, and held community 

networking events – it was key for us to ensure 

we were stimulating practical solutions in the 

region. 

We were astounded by the total of 5,000 

people, from school children to business 

owners and local officials, that came and 

joined us in celebration and discussion at the 

events. By the time we reached our destination 

in Stone Town, Zanzibar, the impact of the 

expedition became clear: the world’s first 

plastic boat had captured the hearts and minds 

of an international audience, led to pledges 

by Kenyan and Zanzibari governments to help 

stem the tide of plastic, led to 39 businesses 

banning single use plastic on the Kenyan coast, 

and even the closing down of the largest dump 

site in Mombasa! 

These are all incredible examples of local 

progress in the global fight against plastic 

pollution. However, the key now is to build 

more momentum in the region and beyond – 

whilst both Kenya and Zanzibar have already 

made progress to ban plastic bags, there is 

still much to do to implement these policies, 

and we hope that the region will take further 

measures to ban all single-use plastic. 

As for Flipflopi, we will keep on sailing, and 

plans are now being made to build her ‘big 

sister’ so that we can sail the message around 

the world - hopefully inspiring more people to 

join the “plastic revolution”. 

Jack Wood was the security advisor on 

board the Flipflopi as it sailed from Lamu to 

Zanzibar in Jan-Feb 2019. To become part of 

this ambitious project, visit theflipflopi.com. 


Bar Culture Night 

Join us every Wednesday night and 

experience craft cocktails. DJ Paps on the 

decks from 7.00pm. 

For Reservations Call 0726 303030 

Excessive consumption of alcohol is harmful to your health. Strictly not to be sold to persons under 18 years 


ROAD TRIP 

Nairobi-Shaba-Chalbi-Turkana 

A FAMILY 

HITS THE 

ROAD 


ROAD TRIP 

Exploring ideas of where 

to go, Simon Marsh decides 

that a road trip up North, 

well beyond the usual 

tourist trail, might be a fun 

and unique way to spend 

a couple of weeks with his 

family and friends. 

Our trip was to take us 

from Nairobi up to 

Shaba National Reserve, 

which is contiguous with 

the considerably more 

famous Samburu and 

Buffalo Springs National 

Reserves, before heading off to the eastern 

side of Lake Turkana and crossing over into 

the Chalbi desert, all while revelling in the 

places in between. 

We had spent a lot of time seeking out 

individuals with knowledge of the more 

remote areas and bombarding them with 

questions. The given answers provided 

more questions than answers; we would 

need to carry between one and sixty litres 

of spare fuel, might get no punctures or 

upwards of twenty, water might be available 

or we might need to filter our own...the 

only certainty was that there were many 

uncertainties. 

Our first stop was Shaba, previously 

home to Joy Adamson. Shaba has a tropical 

feel to it thanks to the Ewaso Nyiro river 

dissecting it. We pitched camp at the 

Funan campsite. As expected, there were 

no facilities but it did offer shade under 

sprawling Acacia trees, with plenty of water 

from the spring and a small stream. The kids 

and I mucked in with a will and soon a small 

hamlet emerged. With the long drop dug 

and the mess tent set up, the priority was to 

get the fire prepared. At any African camp 

the fire is both the oven and the social hub 

and will generally be kept going all the time. 

With plenty of firewood, this was relatively 

easy and the next priority was to open the 

fridge for cold drinks all round. 

The next couple of days were spent 

pottering around, watching elephants and 

gerenuk, looking for crocodiles in the swiftly 

flowing river water and paying a visit to 

the Save the Elephant Research Camp in 

neighbouring Samburu reserve to learn 

about their critical work before cooling off in 

the refreshing natural spring pool in Buffalo 

Springs. The children also discovered the 

delights of wallowing in the marsh and 

seeing how much mud it was possible to 

accumulate upon themselves. 

At any African camp 

the fire is both 

the oven and the 

social hub and will 

generally be kept 

going at all times. 

Soon it was time to completely leave the 

tarmac so we stopped to squeeze a bit more 

fuel into the tanks then hit the dust. There 

was very little traffic now, a sporadic truck or 

two and the occasional motorbike taxi, but 

not much else. After about three hours we 

arrived in the sprawling village of Ngurunit 

which mainly consists of the Samburu style 

rondavel type houses. We had tentatively 

booked in at the campsite at the edge of 

the village but decided we would prefer 

something slightly more detached. Together 

with Mbeko, our local liaison, we set off a 

short way along the very rocky road until we 

identified a nice shaded spot by the river. 

Ngurunit has a little known secret which 

is the river that comes down from the Ndoto 

Mountains and forms a number of crystal 

clear pools and some really awesome 

natural waterslides. Just a 20 minute 

saunter away, we had little in the way of 

expectations but it took the two children all 

of thirty seconds to work out the dynamics 

before hurling themselves fearlessly over the 

edge, followed pretty swiftly by the adults. 

We spent the rest of the evening trying to 

find new ways to hurl ourselves down the 

rocks with the aim being to catch the mighty 

take off and land neatly in the pool at the 

bottom. 

The next day after breaking camp and 

cleaning up the site it was time to head 

up to Turkana, something we were all 

excited about. Stopping in South Horr, we 

managed to find the well hidden petrol 

station and headed through the dramatic 

mountain scenery. Once again, our plans 

upon arriving in Loiyangalani were vague... 

we found a local guide and headed off 

somewhere about 15km along the lake 

and found a nice shaded spot overlooking 

the jade sea and in view of Poi, then set 

ourselves up. The more intrepid decided 

that tents were an unnecessary addition and 

decided to sleep under the stars braving the 

scorpions and legendary Turkana gales. 

There was little on the way to the desert 

other than camels and the occasional village 

until we turned into the sand, and then there 

was nothing at all. Chalbi desert was once 

upon a time a lake and the fossils of fish 

are still to be found along with frequent salt 

deposits. These deposits doubled as car 

traps and so avoiding them, we pitched 

camp alongside a sand ridge in the middle 

with views of nothing in every direction. 

Throughout the journey the lack of light 

pollution had provided the most incredible 

night sky but the desert stole the show; a 

star gazer’s dream come true! 

In this part of Kenya, time has largely 

stood still, a landscape devoid of habitation 

in a world with so many people, being 

outdoors all day, no electric gadgets 

to distract us and relying on good old 

fashioned principles of conversation, fresh 

air, excellent food and more than a couple of 

cold beers for the adults. 


BUDGET PICK 

ROCKY ECO 

TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHY LEROY BULIRO 

Most travel-loving Nairobians are no 

strangers to Naivasha, a place which, 

at the very least, has served as a pit-stop 

as you leave or drive back to the capital. 

It is also home to numerous affordable 

accommodation spots and activities, 

making it the perfect stop for budget 

travelers. Rocky Eco-Lodge is one such 

place; its central location makes the rest 

of the town accessible, from the bustling 

centre to the lakes. 

OVERVIEW 

This eco-friendly spot is easily 

distinguishable by its articulate 

incorporation of wood carvings, starting 

right from the reception to the walls in 

the rooms, all drawing inspiration from 

nature. The retro ambiance here is African, 

drawing from mud and wood huts, albeit 

with a 21st century remake. The wooden 

swing chairs, side tables and mirror frames 

all stay true to the theme. 

The ten-roomed lodge offers 

breathtaking unmarred views of Lake 

Naivasha with the geological curvature 

of the mountains as the perfect backdrop, 

each sunrise better than the last. 

Perfect for backpackers and 

archeological geeks, this four year old 

property’s proximity to most of Naivasha’s 

key attractions makes it the perfect spot for 

those keen to explore. It is only 3 km from 

town, Hell’s Gate National Park and Lake 

Naivasha lie to its north while Mt Longonot 

stands to its West. The massage room 

is always open for some much needed 

relaxation after a busy day out and about, 

and the international cuisine offered at 

the restaurant will do just the trick. Matter 

of fact, their vegetables are sourced from 

Lodge 

their very own backyard, ensuring total 

freshness for farm to table enthusiasts. 

GETTING THERE 

From Nairobi, drive 83 km using the 

Nakuru- Nairobi highway. Once you make 

your turn headed to Naivasha Town, take 

the Moi South Lake Road and drive another 

3.7 km to arrive at your destination. 

Rocky Eco Lodge will be located along the 

highway on your left, directly opposite the 

junction leading to Hell’s Gate National 

Park. The road is tarmaced all the way so 

just map out the route and hit the road- any 

kind of car will get you there. 

PROS 

• Easily accessible given its location 

right by the road. 

• Camping is available. 

• Fresh food grown in their own garden. 

CONS 

• Limited number of rooms available if 

you’re coming as a large group. Book 

in advance. 

• If you need something that is not 

available at the lodge, you will have 

to drive into town as there are no 

shops around. 

HOW TO BOOK & COSTS 

A nights stay at Rocky Eco Lodge will 

cost you Ksh 8,500 for a single room 

and Ksh 12,500 for a double room, Full- 

Board while half-board will go for Ksh 

7,000 single and Ksh 9,500 double. For 

camping, call to confirm availability. 

For bookings, head to their site at 

naivasharockyecolodge.co.ke or email 

them directly at rockyresort@yahoo.com 

Overall 

8/10 

ACTIVITIES 

From trekking the rough terrain of 

Hell’s Gate National Park to uphill and 

downhill adventures to the crater of 

Mt Longonot, these are just but a few 

activities around Naivasha that will 

surely quench your nomadic desires 

to explore, so dust off those safari 

boots and prepare to experience what 

Naivasha has to offer. Want to cool 

off? Drive down to Lake Naivasha and 

enjoy the calm breeze as you unwind 

with a boat ride. 

HELL’S GATE NATIONAL PARK 

Distance From Rocky Eco Lodge: 

31 km 

Entry Fee: Ksh 300 for citizens & Ksh 

600 for residents 

A TREK UP MT LONGONOT 

Distance From Rocky Eco Lodge: 

22 km 

Entry Fee: Ksh 300 for citizens & Ksh 

600 for residents 

CRUISING ON LAKE NAIVASHA 

Distance From Rocky Eco Lodge: 9 km


Weekend at 

KIMANA HOUSE 

TEXT: WENDY WATTA 


SPOTLIGHT ON 

Ibegrudgingly yank myself from the 

cozy embrace of the four poster 

bed and pad barefoot across the 

spacious room towards the large 

glass windows through which the 

soft morning light has washed 

into the space. Taking in the view 

for the first time given our late arrival the 

previous night, I am met with a startlingly 

green, well kempt lawn, and...wait, is that a 

herd of zebras grazing further afield? 

There is a river a few feet away and its 

soothing rushing sound had lulled me to 

sleep the previous night. I walk out for a 

closer inspection and discover a rock pool 

which must have been manually marked out 

from the rest of the river by several rocks, 

and for a moment, seriously contemplate 

belly-flopping in for a quick dip. It is 

however cold enough to deter even the most 

determined of swimmers, and I am also, 

quite frankly, starving. 

Being a self-catering spot, there is a chef 

for hire at Kimana House, but I am stubborn 

about doing our own cooking. If coming 

from Nairobi, I would suggest doing all 

of your shopping in the city as you might 

not find all desired items at Kimana town. 

I am quite content to potter around this 

very functional kitchen, peering into neatly 

organised cupboards and drawers to get 

familiar with this new space, and pretty 

soon, my beef Burgundy is simmering on the 

stove. 

Wandering around the four beautiful 

rooms of Kimana House, it is hard to 

believe that at the turn of 2018, it was 

still a dark and dreary space with ghastly 

tinted windows, a questionable choice of 

paint complete with an overgrown bush 

covering the entire front yard. When Big Life 

Foundation backed by Sheldrick Wildlife 

Trust signed a lease until 2046 from the 

local maasai who communally own the land, 

one of the first orders of business was to 

completely overhaul this house. 

With a limited budget, tight deadline 

and unexpected rains which went on for 

three months, renovations were in high gear; 

shiny tiles were replaced with mazeras stone 

and the work done on the bathrooms was 

nothing short of a miracle, turning what was 

once a pastor’s house into a stylish homey 

space that can comfortably sleep eight. My 

favourite spot would have to be the outdoor 

dining area which proved the perfect spot 

for long overdue catch ups that spilled late 

into the balmy Amboseli evenings. 

Kimana Sanctuary is said to be the first 

community conservancy in Kenya, presently 

owned by 480 local maasai who depend 

on tourism for most of their income. It sits at 

the very center of a crucial corridor linking 

the nearby Amboseli National Park to the 

Chyulu Hills and Tsavo, and being a true 

elephant lover, our game drive certainly did 

not disappoint. 

It is a self-drive property, although 

car hires can also be arranged with a 

third party through the house. We set off 

just before sunset with house manager 

Joshua acting as our guide; our saloon car 

surprisingly handled the terrain quite well, 

although I highly suspect that it would be an 

altogether different story during the rainy 

season. Having been on innumerable game 

drives, the wildlife somewhat start blending 

into one another, but elephants always stop 

me right in my tracks, even if this time it was 

simply because we were caught up in a sea 

of these curious giants who flanked us all 

round showing no signs of budging. As a 

few more posed in the shadow of a snowcapped 

Mt Kilimanjaro in whose direction the 

sun was setting, I had to blink back cathartic 

tears brought on by the visual overload from 

the sheer beauty all round. It was simply 

overwhelming. 

RATES 

Kimana Sanctuary is open to everyone for 

game drives and camping. There are two 

campsites with a long-drop toilet and bucket 

shower facilities so carry your own food, 

water and tents and stay for the awesome 

location. 

Game drives: Ksh 1,000 per person per 

day for residents/citizens, and Ksh 2,500 for 

non-residents. 

Camping: Ksh 2,000 per person per day 

for residents and Ksh 3,500 for non-residents 

(includes the entry fee). 

Kimana House: Ksh 18,000 per night for 

four guests or less, and Ksh 24,000 per night 

for 5-8 guests (inclusive of children). 

Children between 10-18 years pay 50% 

and children under 10 years go free for 

camping and game drives. 


SANDSTORM 

What I pack … for my travels 

Athlete Biko Adema is a renowned rugby 

sevens player who’s traveled the world and 

stolen the hearts of numerous sports fans 

in the process. Whenever he hits the road, 

these are some of the items you’re likely to 

find in his carry-on bag. 

Instagram: @ademdiz 

Tan Moshi 

Ksh15,900 

PORTABLE JBL SPEAKER 

This has proved to be the 

perfect companion on 

roadtrips. When on group 

getaways with friends at the 

beach or on safari, we can 

simply play some good music 

and hang out. The sound 

quality is superb. 

LACOSTE COLOGNE 

Did you know that the Lacoste 

brand was unintentionally started 

by French tennis star Lacoste in 

1927 when he was promised 

a piece of luggage made from 

crocodile skin if he won a 

particular match? Thereafter, he 

emblazoned a small crocodile on 

his court apparel after the win, 

and pretty soon started producing 

this signature shirt for tennis, golf 

and sailing. Biko says, “I like 

smelling great and have several 

perfumes that I use depending on 

my mood.” 

THE RULES OF 

PEOPLE 

BY RICHARD 

TEMPLAR 

I like to bring a 

motivational book 

to go through whenever I can and this 

current read is marketed as a personal 

code for getting the best from everyone... 

it promises to turn you into a natural 

‘people person’, so we’ll see about that. 

BLOC SUNGLASSES 

I like to whip these out when it gets too 

sunny or when I simply want to enjoy 

a beautiful view such as an incredible 

sunset. They are also just oh so stylish! 

G SHOCK WATCH BY CASIO 

This is perfect if you’re on the 

move a lot as it was designed 

for sports and adventurous 

outdoor activities. From the 

gym to hiking and the beach, 

you can literally wear it 

anywhere. 

A SMALL BIBLE 

A quiet moment 

of devotion and 

meditation is key every 

now and then. For my 

spiritual nourishment, I’ll 

go through this and it calms, 

inspires and sharpens my 

focus. 


NAIROBI: The Hub, Junction, Sarit Centre, Village Market, Yaya Centre, Westgate 

www.sandstormkenya.com 


LAST WORD 

Hamid stands brandishing 

a red umbrella outside 

The Tembo Hotel 

wearing a kanzu 

robe and prayer cap. 

Gathered around him 

are a motley bunch 

of tourists who have 

been foolhardy enough to sign up for an 

Old Town tour under the midday sun. Most 

are dressed suitably with shoulders and 

legs covered in loose fabric, but Cathy has 

to rush back for a hat and Mindy, to grab 

a bottle of drinking water. David wears 

long shorts with an expensive camera slung 

around his neck. When everyone is finally 

ready, Hamid clears his throat. 

“Wakaribishwa,” he says, arms 

outstretched. “Karibu Stone Town. Today we 

visit a palace, a fort, hidden caves and a 

house of wonders. Follow me!” 

“Er, how long is the tour?” Asks Cathy, 

clearing her throat. 

“Just four hours.” Hamid says casually. 

The group exchange worried glances. 

Mrs Mungai asks if she might be able to 

return to the hotel midway through the tour 

and Hamid nods in agreement. 

“Endelea” Hamid says, heading off 

feelings of uncertainty. He takes a bold 

step forward, followed by a hasty couple of 

sharp steps back as a moped driver, white 

Walking 

TOUR 

By Frances Woodhams 

shirt flying, nearly mows him down. Hamid 

shakes his fist as the moped disappears 

around a tight corner, horn honking. 

The group crocodile down narrow streets 

lined with tall, whitewashed buildings. Iron 

roofs, peeling paint and ramshackle wooden 

balconies with power lines and cables that 

crisscross overhead. Ornate carved wooden 

doorways are flanked by stone seats 

positioned for weary travelers seeking refuge 

from the sun. Occasionally a door is left 

ajar giving a glimpse into a sunlit courtyard 

replete with washing line, pot plants and 

perhaps a fountain. Hamid explains the 

history of the carved doors but the group 

turn at the sound of a cat fight taking place 

down a side alley, so they move on. 

“And this was Freddie Mercury’s House.” 

Hamid says with a flourish. “Where he spent 

many years of his childhood.” 

David says,”Freddie who?” but takes 

photographs nonetheless. 

“Real name Farrokh Bulsara.” Hamid 

continues, undeterred. “He spent his 

childhood years right here.” 

“Bohemian Rhapsody!” Mindy pipes 

up. “My absolute favourite movie, you must 

watch it.” She tells Mrs Mungai who is 

fanning herself wearily. 

On with the tour and shops selling 

fabrics, spices and paintings spill their wares 

onto the streets over tables or strung up 

on walls. Bicycles, mopeds, handcarts are 

parked to one side while vendors lounge on 

doorsteps calling out to passing customers. 

Ladies in full veil with henna-tattooed hands 

go about their shopping quietly. The delicious 

smell of freshly brewed coffee floats in the air. 

Some streets are so narrow that the party has 

to walk in a single file. There are brief stops 

at the Hamamni Baths and the famous Jaws 

Corner intersection where ‘international calls 

are free’. Mrs Mungai shows signs of flagging 

when the muezzin’s call to prayer starts 

ringing out from Stone Town’s 50 mosques 

and David suggests the group take a break, 

which everyone agrees is a good idea. 

“I know just the place.” Hamid says, “Not 

far.” 

The group magically emerge at the 

seafront, signaled by a warm breeze and half 

a dozen touts offering boat trips and spice 

tours. 

“No thank you. Not today,” says Cathy. 

“Perfect stop for a soda!” Hamid beams, 

crossing the road to the Sunshine Bar and 

Grill. The group gratefully pull up plastic 

chairs in the shade and, buoyed by sugar and 

bubbles, ask what is next on the itinerary. The 

Arab Fort and then the House of Wonders. 

On with the tour! 

Frances Woodhams is author of the blog: 

www.africaexpatwivesclub.com 

SKETCH: MOVIN WERE 


ADVERTORIAL 

BEACH TO 

BUSH 

WITH 

Why you should fly with Safarilink 

Your flight with Safarilink to Zanzibar guarantees you; 

• The booking process ( Reservations & Call Centre) 

• Our state-of-the-art security 

• Our friendly check-in 

• Our dedicated private lounge 

• Direct boarding and in-flight service 

Reasons to visit Zanzibar 

• Blissful beach destination 

• Unique and vibrant culture and architecture 

• Exotic spices 

• Rich culture & history 

• Diving Mecca and water lover’s paradise 

Safarilink 

is Kenya’s premier 

airline with a network 

of connecting domestic scheduled services to all 

the best safari destinations within Kenya and 

across the border into Tanzania. Based at Wilson 

Airport, Nairobi, Safarilink provides daily scheduled 

flights to Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Tsavo West, 

Naivasha, Nanyuki, Lewa Downs, Samburu, Lamu, 

Kilimanjaro, Loisaba, Kitale, Kapese, Lodwar, 

Migori, Vipingo, Diani, Zanzibar and Kisumu. 

Safarilink offers daily seamless inter-connecting 

services from safari destinations to our beach 

destinations such as Zanzibar, Diani, Vipingo and 

Lamu. We also provide private charter services if 

scheduled services are not convenient. 

Through our dedicated check-in lounge, friendly 

security checks, free Wi-Fi, free flights through our 

safari bonus program and direct boarding, we pride 

ourself on being a reliable airline. Over the last year, 

we have had numerous expansions on our services; 

on 1st July 2018, we increased the frequency of 

Zanzibar flights from four times a week to daily. On 

3rd September 2018, we introduced a new route to 

Kisumu. Both services enable passengers to connect 

from all our safari destinations, most notably Maasai 

Mara and Laikipia, allowing them to arrive at their 

destination in daylight hours! The in-bound early 

evening return flight from Zanzibar enables suitable 

connections to international flights. 

In line with the extensive expansion of our 

services, we have increased our fleet from 11 to 13 

aircraft, three of which are Dash-8 (Bombardier) 

Safarilink CSR activities are targeted at regions 

where we operate and are primarily focused on 

preserving nature and improving the lives of local 

communities. This ranges from Laikipia where we 

support forest restoration with Mt Kenya Trust 

to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy with whom we are 

partners in wildlife conservation. In Diani, we 

engage in conservation of colobus monkeys and 

in partnership with Hands Off our Elephants, we 

have branded our aircrafts with this vital message. 

Further to that, we are also engaged in numerous 

acts of goodwill across the country to save nature and 

transform lives. 

To achieve this, we partner with reputable 

organizations operating in the destinations that we 

serve. Our efforts have won us many awards and 

collaborators. We are recognized as the first airline 

to partner with Mt Kenya Trust committing to the 

carbon offset program, and as the first airline to be 

awarded the Best Eco-Friendly Airline by Ecotourism 

Kenya for five consecutive years. 

We recently partnered with Mpesa Foundation 

Academy to sponsor two students from Turkana 

county for a full course of secondary school 

education. In the same county early this year, we 

sponsored a five-day eye clinic with over two million 

shillings with one of our partners, Medical & 

Education Aid for Kenya (MEAK) which saw a total 

of 818 patients reviewed. 

SAFARILINK AVIATION LTD 

Phoenix House, Wilson Airport 

PO.Box 5616, Nairobi, 0056, Kenya. 

Tel: 020 6690000 

Mobile: +254 720888111/ 730 888 000 

email: res@flysafarilink.com 



Book a flight to paradise. 

Daily flights 

Zanzibar 


@FlySafarilink

Nomad Zanzibar 2019

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