World Traveller May 2019

INSPIRED BY 

ISSUE 133 | MAY 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

ST LUCIA 

A true taste of 

Caribbean life 

CALIFORNIA 

DREAMING 

The coolest way to see the best 

of America's Golden State 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

LONDON 

PARIS 

NETHERLANDS 

SOLO TRAVEL

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While at Raffles, 

why not visit Dubai?

Welcome note 

Trip to London on the horizon? It's one of the most popular 

destinations for travellers from the Middle East to head to 

during the summer, and we've pulled out all the stops to help 

make this year's jaunt your best experience yet by giving you 

Managing Director 

Victoria Thatcher 

Editorial Director 

John Thatcher 

General Manager 

David Wade 

Managing Editor 

Faye Bartle 

faye@hotmediapublishing.com 

Content Writer 

Habiba Azab 

Art Director 

Kerri Bennett 

Senior Designer 

Hiral Kapadia 

Senior Advertising Manager 

Mia Cachero 

mia@hotmediapublishing.com 

Production Manager 

Muthu Kumar 

a heads up on all that's new and noteworthy in the 

city in our cover story on page 24. From why you 

should swap Shoreditch for Peckham and Hackney 

Wick (trust us, we know what we're talking about), 

and taking a sneak peek at the hottest tables 

and most desirable hotels in town, we've got 

everything you need to curate your perfect trip. 

And if you fancy tagging on a long weekend in 

Paris, our four-page feature, by our in-the-know 

travel writer Lara Brunt, tells you how to explore 

the City of Lights in style (p58). 

Also inside this issue, we take you on a trip 

across California in a classic Airstream (p36) and 

whisk you away to live the easy breezy life in St 

Lucia (p48). Plus, in the spirit of Ramadan, we've 

unearthed some trips that'll add extra cultural 

meaning to your future travel plans on page 16. 

Happy travels, 

Faye Bartle 

May 2019 // Issue 133 // What's New in London / California / Paris / Netherlands / St Lucia 

ISSUE 133 | MAY 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

CALIFORNIA 

DREAMING 

The coolest way to see the best 

of America's Golden State 

ST LUCIA 

A true taste of 

Caribbean life 

Win! 

INSPIRED BY 

A stay at Jumeirah 

Al Wathba Desert 

Resort & Spa in Abu 

Dhabi on p75 

FIVE THINGS 

WE LEARNED 

THIS ISSUE: 

1 

A-listers including 

Hanks, Pitt, and 

McConaughey are fans 

of the humble Airstream 

trailer – it's our new 

favourite way to explore 

California, p36 

2 

The mighty Tower Bridge 

has straddled the 

River Thames for 

125 years, p24 

3 

The best view of the 

Pitons in St Lucia can be 

found 600m above sea 

level at Tet Paul, p48 

4 

You can have breakfast 

with Red Riding Hood, 

among other adventures, 

at the fairy tale theme 

park Efteling in the 

Netherlands, p42 

5 

This year, Paris is 

celebrating the 130 th 

anniversary of the 

Eiffel Tower, as well 

as 350 years of the 

Paris Opera, p58 

INSPIRED BY 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

LONDON 

PARIS 

NETHERLANDS 

SOLO TRAVEL 

Photography credits: 

Getty Images and Phocal Media 

COVER IMAGE 

Getty Images 

Reproduction in whole or in 

part without written permission 

from HOT Media Publishing is 

strictly prohibited. HOT Media 

Publishing does not accept 

liability for omissions or errors in 

World Traveller. 

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 

Find us at… 

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com 

FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine 

INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller 

TWITTER @WT_Magazine 

worldtravellermagazine.com 5

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Contents 

May 2019 

Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel 

24 

WHAT'S NEW IN LONDON 

regulars 

10 15 20 24 76 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

This month's go-to 

places include the 

Turkish coastal city of 

Bodrum and blooming 

Amsterdam. 

GLOBETROTTER 

Passport at the ready 

as our world tour takes 

us from edible art in 

London to a new (and a 

newly relaunched) hotel 

in Maldives. 

THE KNOWLEDGE 

Carina Otero, founder 

of She is Not Lost, and 

Nastasia Yakoub of 

Dame Traveler share 

their expert advice for 

female globetrotters. 

COVER FEATURE 

It's soon to be summer 

and London's calling. 

Putting your finger on 

the pulse of what's hot 

in the Big Smoke are our 

on-the-ground experts. 

SUITE DREAMS 

It's high stakes 

glamour inside the 

Pierre-Yves Rochondesigned 

Diamond Suite 

at Hôtel Hermitage 

Monte-Carlo. 


CONTENTS 

features 

36 42 

TRAILER FLASH TALES OF THE 

Jenni Doggett hits the UNEXPECTED 

road to discover why an Once upon a time, a 

Airstream trailer is the fairy tale land was built 

hippest way to holiday in Netherlands. Maggie 

in California. 

O’Farrell heads there. 

48 

KEEPING IT REAL 

Liz Edwards on why 

self-catering in 

St Lucia is your key to 

getting a true taste of 

Caribbean life. 

58 

A LONG WEEKEND IN PARIS 

weekends 

56 58 

REASONS TO 

A LONG WEEKEND 

VISIT AMMAN 

IN PARIS 

The strikingly modern Lara Brunt falls head 

meets old world charm over heels for the City 

in Jordan's capital. of Lights. 

66 

STAYCATIONS 

Feel in need of a break? 

We have a couple more 

reasons to book a 

weekend escape. 

70 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

It's time we sent you 

packing. Choose your 

next adventure from 

our exclusive offers. 

© Paris Tourist Office. Photographer © Sarah Sergent 

8 worldtravellermagazine.com

ENJOY A BLEND OF STYLE AND TRADITION THIS RAMADAN 

Celebrate the Holy Month of Ramadan with friends and family in Dubai’s most 

established Ramadan setting within our intimate courtyards. 

A FEAST OF IFTAR EXPERIENCES 

Enjoy Iftar buffets, served daily from sunset at Tagine and The Rotisserie for AED 230, 

or enjoy a private banquet setting with menus starting from AED 250. 

Then extend the evening relaxing in our ‘Ramadan Café Courtyard’ at The Palace 

or ‘Ramadan Outdoor Café’ at Arabian Court. 

Ramadan Café & Majlis: daily 8pm - 2.30am 

oneandonlyroyalmirage.com 

+971 4 399 9999

TRENDING DESTINATIONS 

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, 

reveals the places that are trending this month 

Keukenhof, image courtesy of Conservatorium 

Amsterdam 

People are flocking here to see the famous Dutch tulips bloom. Just 30 minutes' from the city centre you'll find the 

flower fields of the beautiful Keukenhof tulip garden, although blooms can also be seen at numerous locations 

throughout the capital, including the famous Tulip Museum. The weather is perfect at this time of year, and the 

city kicks off the summer in style by hosting a variety of outdoor music festivals to suit all tastes. 

Highlights 1 Take an Instagram snap of the red, snake-like Python Bridge in the Azartplein district. 2 View rare artwork 

by the Dutch master at The Rembrandt House’s staging of Rembrandt’s Social Network (until 19 May). 3 Check out the 

Longing for Mecca exhibition at Tropenmuseum, which showcases personal stories from Dutch pilgrims. 



Jakarta 

The metropolitan capital delivers the best of Indonesian city and beach life. A melting pot of different cultures, this 

urban jungle’s 100+ malls, packed closely together, make it a popular shopping destination. Plus, you can wander 

around Jakarta Old Town's colonial buildings, or take the 90-minute boat trip to the idyllic Thousand Islands beaches. 

Getting around is easy thanks to the Jakarta MRT underground railway system, which launched in March. 

Highlights 1 Hop on a boat from Ancol Bay and head to the tropical islands of Kepulauan Seribu for a night in a private 

beach hut. 2 Soak up the heritage in West Jakarta at Museum Fatahillah, and tour the surrounding Kota Tua district on 

a classic bicycle. 3 Drop by Setu Babakan in the south, where you can learn the story of the native Betawi culture. 


Kenya 

It’s the perfect time to go on safari. In Kenya, the green season is in full swing, which may result in a thunderstorm 

or two. But the aftermath, combined with the lush flora and fauna, will enhance your landscape shots dramatically. 

As May is a wet month, and typically quieter, it'll be easier to view Africa’s big five (the lion, leopard, rhinoceros, 

elephant, and cape buffalo) while driving through the unforgettable Masai Mara National Reserve. 

Highlights 1 Take a guided tour of Kericho, which has long been Kenya’s richest tea growing district. 2 Admire the great plains of the Mara by 

taking to the sky in a hot air balloon at dawn. 3 Consider going north to the shore of Lake Turkana, and making a guided visit to the El Molo 

villages for a glimpse of the traditional way of life of the smallest tribes of Kenya. 



Bodrum 

This ancient port city on Turkey’s Aegean Coast is enjoying a surge of trendy five-star hotel openings and celebrityfavourite 

beach clubs. Add to the vibrant food scene, and abundance of superyachts bobbing in the marina, and 

it's easy to understand why Bodrum is referred to as 'the St. Tropez of Turkey'. Its 15th century castle on the water, 

white-plastered back-streets, and honey-coloured beaches and turquoise waters enhance the charm. 

Highlights 1 Take a dip in the mud baths at Black Island and emerge with glowing skin. 2 Take a close up look at the famous windmills 

on the hilltop near Yalikavak and you'll also get great views of Bodrum and Gumbet. 3 Brush up on your maritime history at the 

Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology in Bodrum Castle. 


DESTINATION 

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summer! 

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Unlock a world of summer adventure 

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the sea view rooms, water sport 

activities, “Al Aqah Challenge” ropes 

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Book your summer 

getaway for unlimited family fun! 

Members enjoy extra benefits when 

you book online at Marriott.com 

Terms and conditions: 

• Non Marriott Bonvoy members get 15 

percent off 

• Promotional code B4F appears in the 

Corporate/Promotional code box 

• Booking Window: 

18th April 2019 – 25th September 2019 

• Stay Window: 

18th April 2019 – 30th September 2019. 

WWW.MARRIOTT.COM

MAY 

Globetrotter 

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Be informed, be inspired, be there 

GRANDE DAME 

Following a two-year renovation, the 

newly relaunched Baros Maldives will 

rekindle your love affair with the Indian 

Ocean. A beacon of luxury with a fourdecade-long 

pedigree, this grand dame 

of Maldivian hospitality has added two 

new spectacular standalone villas to its 

exclusive palm-thatched community 

of secluded and over-water abodes. 

Returning gourmands can rest easy, with 

the signature lobster bisque still headling 

The Lighthouse's award-winning menu. 

World Traveller 15

GLOBETROTTER 

Photo: Dr Esther Mahlangu by Clint Strydom 

SOUL TRIPPING 

Add extra cultural meaning to your travel plans this month 

SEE A NATIONAL TREASURE 

South Africa bound travellers looking 

for unique artistic insight can explore 

Bantu nation tradition at One&Only 

Cape Town, where a collection of 

works by legendary 83-year-old 

Ndebele painter and national treasure 

Dr Esther Mahlangu is on show at the 

hotel's Melrose Gallery. Dedicated to 

celebrating the best of Pan African 

contemporary art and creativity, 

the newly opened space is the sister 

outpost to its original Melrose Arch 

Johannesburg gallery. 

SNIFF OUT OMANI TRADITION 

The perfume capital of Arabia, Salalah 

is the epicentre of Oman’s centuriesold 

frankincense trade. Extracted from 

the Boswellia sacra tree, this precious 

resin with its distinctive sweet, woody 

scent is burned in homes as a natural air 

freshener, and used in beauty rituals to 

de-stress. It's also said to have powerful 

healing benefits. Check into Al Baleed 

Resort Salalah by Anantara and join 

local area guru Hussain Balhalf for a 

guided frankincense tour and collect a 

few nuggets to take home. The resort 

spa also offers a signature 90-minute 

frankincense ritual. 

SPIN A YARN OVER LUNCH 

Morocco's Atlas Mountains are 

home to the Berber people and this 

proudly independent ethnic group has 

maintained its language, culture and 

identity since 3000 BCE. Subsistence 

farmers and accomplished weavers 

famed for their intricate Amazigh 

carpets made using hand-dyed yarn, 

book the Berber Experience package 

at Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech for 

a unique opportunity to sit and chat 

with a local family over a home-cooked 

lunch in a traditional mountain home. 

ON OUR 

RADAR 

Add some cachet to your 

holiday essentials with a 

stylish carry-all from The 

Reethi Rah Collection, 

a limited edition 

capsule collection 

by One&Only Reethi 

Rah in Maldives and 

State of Escape. 

Available from the 

resort's Neo Boutique. 

Looking for the latest 

scuba hotspot? Pimalai 

Resort & Spa on Koh Lanta, 

Thailand, is offering a Diving 

in Koh Haa package, 

offering access to 12 

spectacular marine 

life-rich underwater 

locations on this 

nearby jewel-like 

island. Lucky ones 

may even spot an 

endangered whale shark. 

Exclusivity in the extreme 

is the MO at North Island 

Seychelles. The super luxe 

11-villa private island 

resort has upped the 

desirability quotient 

with the opening of 

its ultra-exclusive 

cocktail destination, 

West Beach Bar on 

North Island. Bespoke 

cocktails and fabulous 

sunsets are the standard. 

Take a leaf out of Saudi 

Arabian influencer Dr Hassan 

Ghoneim’s book and upgrade 

your old suitcase to 

something altogether 

more stylish from 

premium luggage 

brand TUMI. Join his 

1.3 million-strong 

Instagram following 

(@hassanghoneim) to 

see more. tumi.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X CAESARS BLUEWATERS DUBAI 

Empire state of mind 

Relax, refresh and revitalise body and soul at Caesars 

Bluewaters Dubai, for the ultimate imperial experience this summer 

A 

life of enjoyment and pleasure 

was the foundation of the 

Roman empire, and Caesars 

Bluewaters Dubai puts a luxury spin on 

this ethos with a wealth of rich lifestyle 

experiences designed to pamper and 

please 21st century travellers. With an 

exclusive address at Bluewaters, this 

iconic destination has Las Vegas panache. 

BEACH TIME & TRANQUILLITY 

A pristine stretch of private beach is 

your gateway to the crystal-clear waters 

of the Arabian Gulf and is best enjoyed 

from the comfort of a private cabana or, 

if you’re more action inclined, out on the 

water. A duo of stunningly landscaped 

outdoor pools add an extra layer of al 

fresco extravagance and are perfectly 

positioned for a quick dip or leisurely 

few laps. Zen moments away from the 

sand and water are also guaranteed in 

the upscale sanctuary of Qua Spa, with 

a regal collection of elemental inspired 

treatments that ensure the perfect 

balance of internal Qi energy. Try the 

revolutionary Psammo Concept Quartz 

Bed experience with its tension-relieving 

sand therapy, or the signature Ladies 

Collection Facial with a choice of Caviar 

Repair, Golden Glow and Collagen Lift. 

DINING DELIGHTS 

Energy of a different kind is the focus 

of Caesars Bluewaters Dubai's talented 

culinary team, with a multicultural 

offering for every guest. From an 

immersive iftar experience at Michelin 

starred chef Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s 

Kitchen to a family friendly Arabian 

feast experience headlining at Bacchanal 

throughout Ramadan. The popular 

Hellicious Brunch is also on the menu, 

with a spread fit for a Caesar every Friday 

evening in the month of May. 

Sunset takes on extra special 

significance at the rooftop dining venue 

Paru, where contemporary Japanese 

cuisine is paired with signature drinks. 

Sundowners with spectacular view of 

the JBR skyline and ocean? Paru ticks 

all the boxes. It doesn’t end there with 

Dubai’s social set to be found at Havana 

Social Club, the home of chilled Latin 

beats and classic Cuban flavours where 

extravagance takes on a seductive note. 

SUMMER STAYS 

Play and stay like a Caesar for the 

ultimate romantic getaway at Caesars 

Palace Bluewaters Dubai, where couples 

can unwind to the sight of the sparkling 

sea from their own private balcony. A 

fun family escape awaits at Caesars 

Resort Bluewaters Dubai, with a fullypacked 

roaster of entertainment for 

all ages. Make it a summer stay, and 

be treated like royalty with exclusive 

summer savings and a host of added 

benefits yours to discover. 

To find out more, visit caesars.com/dubai 

Neptune Pool, Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai 

Havana Social Club, Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai 

One Bedroom Ocean Suite Living Room, 

Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai 


GLOBETROTTER 

ART ON A PLATE 

Culinary culturalists can whet their appetite, discover the 

arts scene and enjoy a science lesson at this trio of top London 

museums where food and fun are on the menu 

LUNCH WITH VAN GOGH 

REX WHISTLER AT 

TATE BRITAIN 

Vincent Van Gogh's love of 

vivid colours is translated to 

the table with a three-course 

lunch and tasting menu to 

celebrate the EY Exhibition: 

Van Gogh and Britain (until 

11 August). The Rex Whistler 

restaurant menu features 

best of British produce and 

uniquely Dutch ingredients. 

Look out for an artistic 

culinary nod to his most 

famous works, including 

Starry Night on the Rhône. 

tate.org.uk 

BIGGER THAN THE PLATE 

VICTORIA & ALBERT 

MUSEUM 

The hot topic of food and 

sustainability takes centre 

stage at this bold exhibition, 

which invites visitors on a 

sensory journey through the 

food cycle, from compost to 

table. Over 70 contemporary 

projects, new commissions 

and creative collaborations 

by artists and designers 

working with chefs, farmers, 

scientists and communities 

sit alongside 30 objects 

from the V&A collections. 

Opening 18 May. vam.ac.uk 

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM 

NATURAL HISTORY 

MUSEUM 

Sleepovers aren't just for 

kids. The Dino Snores for 

Grown-ups experience is an 

adult-only night of fun and 

games in the grand setting 

of the vaulted Hintze Hall. 

Bed down for the night 

under the giant blue whale 

skeleton after a galleries 

tour, science show, edible 

insect tasting, monster 

movie marathon, threecourse 

dinner and more. 

Taking place on 18 May, 5 Jul, 

13 Sep and 9 Nov. nhm.ac.uk 

Photography: Katie Wilson 


GLOBETROTTER 

Taj Rishikesh Resort & Spa, India 

NEW HOTELS 

Spiritual bliss and city vibes 

Check out the latest hotel hotspots, from India to the Indian Ocean 

1 2 3 

Taj Rishikesh Resort & Spa, India 

Just 30km from Rishikesh, the selfstyled 

yoga capital of the world, this 

sprawling 79-room haven of rustic 

luxury has the dramatic Himalayas as 

its backdrop, and the sacred Ganges at 

its feet. The Jiva Spa lies at the heart of 

the resort, and offers a menu of ancient 

holistic therapies. Explore your spiritual 

side with a private Ganga Aarti ritual, 

or seek adventure with rafting, rock 

climbing and trekking action on tap. 

Jumeirah Living Guangzhou, China 

Location is everything at this homeaway-from-home 

styled CBD hotel, 

which has the Canton Tower and 

Guangzhou Opera House on its 

doorstep. The 169 suite residences 

are split between two iconic towers, 

each with its own design aesthetic. 

With Guangzhou the birthplace of 

Cantonese cuisine, the hotel celebrates 

the city's pioneering flavours and is 

also home to the upscale Winter Mall. 

The Residence Maldives at Dhigurah 

A palm-fringed paradise private 

island in the Gaafu Alifu Atoll, this 

all-villa hideaway is rich with Maldivian 

architectural influences and a surfeit of 

five-star facilities. Nature takes centre 

stage whether you choose the luxury 

of a sunrise/sunset beach villa or 

over-the-water residence. Explore local 

villages, watch dolphins at play, snorkel 

by night and feast at your pleasure 

with a bespoke private dining occasion. 


KNOW-HOW 

The Knowledge 

HOW TO... 

Join the solo female travel movement 

Carina Otero, founder of She is Not Lost, and Nastasia Yakoub, founder of Dame 

Traveler, share their top tips for female globetrotters in search of adventure 

Travelling solo doesn’t 

necessarily mean travelling 

alone. "It simply means that you are 

free to follow your own schedule and 

choose what you do," says Carina. "In 

fact, solo travellers are more likely 

to meet and enjoy the company of 

other people along the way, including 

fellow female travellers who can offer 

companionship while also respecting 

your independence." 

Carina Otero in Marrakech 

Feeling nervous is normal. "I was 

born into a strict Chaldean-Middle 

Eastern household so I understand 

feeling apprehensive and nervous 

about travelling," says Nastasia. 

"Women from a similar background 

will know that travelling solo is a 

big, bold decision. My first trip solo 

trip ever was to Cape Town and I 

remember crying on the way there. 

Truthfully, I was terrified, but after 

my feet were on solid ground, I truly 

embraced the spirit of adventure." 

Do your research, and familiarise 

yourself with a destination 

before you get packing. "Even 

some of the 'safest' places have 

incidences of violence," says Nastasia, 

"so make sure you do your research 

and trust your gut." 

Make sure you only do what you 

feel comfortable with. "Speaking 

from personal experience I’ve 

felt safe travelling solo in many 

destinations, including Taipei, Hong 

Kong, Bali, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, 

and Denmark," says Carina. "If you're 

feeling apprehensive, look into joining 

a women-only tour or a staying at a 

women-only hostel." 

Safety while travelling is a top 

concern for any woman. "When 

on the move, make sure you stay 

connected to your map by investing 

in an international phone plan and 

keeping your electronics charged. 

Try to schedule your travel so that 

you arrive during the day, and it's also 

wise to dress appropriately, or like a 

local," says Carina. 

"I like to look into typical scams 

for the destination I'm exploring, just 

to feel savvy and prepared," adds 

Nastasia. "In addition, you'll never find 

me without a safe and secure bag to 

tote around during the day. I like one 

with a sturdy zipper that crosses over 

the body." 

Staying focused and aware of 

your surroundings is key. "If you 

are making small talk with a new 

person, never reveal that you are 

travelling alone or that you are in a 

place for the first time," says Carina. 

"Even sharing a little white lie, that 

you are on the way to meet someone, 

will signal that someone is aware of 

your whereabouts and is expecting to 

hear from you. Other information you 

should avoid sharing, or keep guard 

of, is your hotel name, your room 

number, and your home address if 

you happen to have it written on your 

luggage tag." 

Follow She is Not Lost at sheisnotlost.com 

and @sheisnotlost; and Dame Traveler at 

dametraveler.com and @dametraveler 


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Island idyll 

Indulge all the senses on Naladhu Private 

Island Maldives, where tropical escapism 

and signature Anantara luxury promise 

the perfect slice of paradise 


WORLD TRAVELLER X NALADHU PRIVATE ISLAND MALDIVES 

If there was ever a blueprint for 

bliss then Naladhu Private Island 

Maldives would be the master 

plan. Naladhu, which translates from 

Dhivehi as ‘beautiful island’, lives up 

to its name from the moment you 

step off the private boat transfer to 

the sound of beating drums and warm 

welcome from your personal retinue. 

Exclusivity comes in the shape of 

just 19 houses and one two bedroom 

residence, all with requisite views of 

the Indian Ocean, private pool and a 

charming colonial inspired design, 

with colourful Maldivian accents for 

that desirable island vibe. If luxury 

knows no bounds, then only the 

two-bedroom Pool Residence will 

do. With carved gates opening onto a 

private courtyard and your own beach 

beyond, 600 square metres of premium 

living space is yours to explore. 

While tropical escapism tops 

the travel list for most guests, 

it’s comforting to know that a 

dedicated butler is on speed dial, 

and your go-to for indulging your 

every whim, from restaurant 

reservations to local excursions. 

Island living is characterised by lazy 

days spent lounging in a hammock 

or wandering along the fine white 

sand beach, with moments of pure 

bliss only interrupted by gourmet 

dining opportunities. Seasonal cuisine 

is in the all-day dining spotlight at 

The Living Room, with its intimate 

lagoon-front setting, whether it’s 

a simple but exquisite breakfast, a 

world-class dinner courtesy of a visiting 

Michelin starred chef or Maldivian 

inspired feast. Bespoke occasions are a 

speciality. One call to your butler and a 

romantic meal served in your favourite 

lagoon location is easily arranged. 

Work off an indulgent lunch 

with a game of tennis or several 

laps of the 17-metre infinity pool, 

or exercise the mind with culinary 

classes, guided meditation sessions 

and private yoga tuition. 

Mind, body and soul are also 

pampered at Anantara Spa at 

Anantara Dhigu and Balance Wellness 

by Anantara at Veli. Here, healing 

Ayurvedic rituals meet Thai, Balinese 

and Western traditions with therapies 

designed to relax and rejuvenate. 

The island will do its best to hold 

you captive but unforgettable moments 

of discovery await elsewhere, courtesy 

of a luxury yacht, speedboat, catamaran 

and traditional dhoni for chartered 

excursions and island hopping. Deep 

sea fishing, snorkelling and scuba 

diving take you above and below the 

crystal-clear waters. Or, take a seaplane 

tour for a bird’s-eye view of the 

stunning natural landscape and your 

Maldivian home away from home. 

To find out more, call +960 664 

4105 or visit naladhu.com 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

What’s new in 

LONDON? 

Set to ship your supercar to Mayfair? In this ever-evolving, trendsetting city a 

lot has changed since last summer. If you’re keen to experience the latest and 

greatest London has to offer, our team of on-the-ground, in-the know city 

experts have the lowdown… 


THE LONDON SCENE 

THE ’HOODS 

Move over, Shoreditch. For too long, 

London’s east had the monopoly on 

cool: now it’s all about the smaller, 

sassier neighbourhoods it inspired 

South of the river 

Of the many London neighbourhoods to be 

billed as ‘the new Shoreditch’, Peckham, to the 

south of the River Thames, is where art galleries 

and rooftop bars now rub shoulders with street 

markets and indie coffee shops – the four hallmarks 

of hipsterdom. Check out Hannah Barry Gallery 

(hannahbarry.com) for contemporary creations, 

and the lofty terrace of Bussey (busseyrooftopbar. 

com) for Shard views over your artisan espresso. 

Closer into central London, Bermondsey was once 

lined with warehouses and shipping wharves (it’s 

right on the river) – but they’ve been transformed 

into trendy boutiques and loft apartments. The 

restaurant scene is buzzing: Andalucia-inspired José 

serves a mean patatas bravas and padrón peppers 

(josepizarro.com) – while Village East’s menu has a 

New York twist (think smoked Applewood burgers 

and crab mac ’n’ cheese, villageeast.co.uk). In a 

striking yellow cubist building – trust us, you can’t 

miss it – Bermondsey’s Fashion and Textile Museum 

(ftmlondon.org) showcases London’s rich 

design history. 

North of the river 

Hackney Wick was once one of London’s bestkept 

secrets: the kind of place you’d ‘discover’ for 

a weekend breakfast, and then spend the next 

two days skipping between vintage boutiques, 

art galleries and achingly cool cafés (actually, 

Stour Space combines all three: stourspace. 

co.uk). Halfway between Regent’s Canal and the 

Olympic Park site, the Wick is five minutes from 

Stratford’s Westfield mall (westfield.com) and the 

Olympic-icon-turned-slide – slide! – ArcelorMittal 

Orbit (arcelormittalorbit.com). With its swimming 

pool and Scandi-chic interiors, the shiny new 

Manhattan Loft Gardens Design Hotel is the area’s 

coolest place to stay (manhattanloft.co.uk). As 

any style maven will tell you, Kings Cross is hot 

property too – check out its shopping district Coal 

Drops Yard (coaldropsyard.com) and sexy new 

hotel The Standard (standardhotels.com). Still 

hung up on Shoreditch? It’s a winner for street art 

(head to Rivington Street or Great Eastern) and 

speakeasy nightspots (check out Callooh Callay, 

calloohcallaybar.com) – and now two new hip 

hotels, the nhow (nhow-hotels.com) and Redchurch 

Townhouse (redchurchtownhouse.com). 


The Dixon 

L'oscar 

Kimpton Fitzroy London 

THE HOT HOTELS 

From makeovers of historical abodes to spectacular, super-sized, 

full-service apartments, London’s hotel offering has upped its game 

again in the past year 

1KETTNER'S TOWNHOUSE LONDON 

Where: Soho 

If walls could talk, Kettner’s tales 

would be enthralling. First opened 

over 150 years ago by Napoleon III’s 

former chef, this legendary French 

restaurant was once the haunt 

of Oscar Wilde – and its newlyopened 

hotel is fast becoming hot 

property too. The bedrooms are few 

but fabulous, with richly-textured 

wallpaper, vintage furniture and 

deep-soak standalone bathtubs. 

2NEW ROAD HOTEL 

Where: Whitechapel 

Set in an old textile factory – where 

the owners' father used to work – 

New Road Hotel is the home of Marco 

Pierre White’s latest restaurant, Mr. 

White’s English Chophouse. While 

that’s certainly a boon for business, 

the hotel doesn’t rest on its laurels: 

expect excellent service, edgy interior 

design, and Loft rooms with al fresco 

London-view hot tubs. 

THE DIXON 

3 Where: Southwark 

Capturing the creativity and 

cultural clout of Southwark, The 

Dixon champions local craftsmen: 

everything from the imposing marble 

staircase to the hotel’s own coffee 

blend are British-made. The result? A 

wholly unique twist on a much-loved 

heritage property (it’s over 100 years 

old) that’s guaranteed to set your 

Insta alight. 

FOUR SEASONS RESIDENCES AT 

4 TEN TRINITY SQUARE 

Where: City of London 

For longer London stays, these ten 

spectacular apartments top anywhere 

else in the city. Each one boasts views 

of the Tower of London and Tower 

Bridge, and combines the comfort 

and ease of a hotel with the luxury of 

a private (and huge) apartment. The 

Four Seasons hotel – and its Michelinstarred 

dining, spa and fitness centre 

– is a mere elevator ride below. 

BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL 

5 Where: Chelsea 

Guests at these luxurious lodgings 

will be given the keys to Cadogan 

Place gardens – one of Chelsea’s most 

beautiful gated retreats. Festooned 

with English roses, fruit trees, and 

plenty of quiet nooks for a picnic, it’s 

a little rural idyll in the heart of the 

city. Just as you’d expect from the 

Belmond brand, the hotel itself 

is sublime. 

VINTRY & MERCER 

6 Where: City of London 

With its leather door handles, silken 

upholstery and velvet headboards, 

Vintry & Mercer feels more like a 

heritage property than a newbie (it’s 

just a few months old), but those 

plush interiors were inspired by the 

area’s illustrious textile-trading past. 

For front-row views of London’s 

skyline (from the dome of St Paul’s 

Cathedral to the tip of The Shard, 

head to the Mercer Roof Terrace. 


Belmond Cadogan Hotel 


OR REVISIT A 

CLASSIC… 

Having completed the 

most extensive restoration 

in its 117-year history, the 

Mandarin Oriental Hyde 

Park, London reopened in 

its entirety last month. The 

fresh look includes two 

newly created penthouse 

suites. 

Four Seasons Residences at Ten Trinity Square 

WHITE CITY HOUSE 

7 Where: White City 

White City House, the BBC’s 

former Television Centre, is one 

of London’s greatest cultural 

icons – so all eyes were on its 

transformation into a members’ 

club and hotel last year. It didn’t 

disappoint. With just 45 rooms, 

a fabulous rooftop pool, and 

exquisite dining in the Canteen 

(one of many nods to the building’s 

history), it’s an interesting and 

intimate retreat. 

KIMPTON FITZROY LONDON 

8 HOTEL 

Where: Bloomsbury 

Behind the soaring archways of 

its ornate 19th-century facade lies 

the most extravagant newcomer 

in London. After an £85 million 

revamp, the Kimpton is pristine 

and palatial: all multi-coloured 

marble and rich dark woods, with 

chandeliers the size of small cars. 

Opt for a corner suite, and you can 

gaze over Bloomsbury from your 

gold-trimmed tub. 

9 L'OSCAR 

Where: Holborn 

Inspired by the area’s theatrical 

heritage (the West End is just 

a stone’s throw away) L’oscar’s 

interiors feel deliciously vaudeville: 

think glittering chandeliers and 

velvety claret tones. Jaques Garcia 

– creator of New York’s The NoMad 

Hotel – is the design mastermind, 

while Michelin-starred chef Tony 

Fleming brings the culinary clout. 

GREAT SCOTLAND YARD 

10 HOTEL 

Where: Westminster 

Another of London’s great 

landmarks to be reborn as a 

five-star hotel, Great Scotland 

Yard (the former HQ of London’s 

Metropolitan Police) promises 

decadent suites and destination 

dining – though at time of press, 

the opening date hasn’t yet been 

confirmed. But if you’re in town 

after this £110 million hotel has 

launched, it would be criminal 

(sorry) to not take a look. 


Cakes and Bubbles 

Berenjak 

Jean-Georges at The 

Connaught 

THE TOP TABLES 

Tom Kerridge, Albert Adrià, and Endo Kazutoshi are some of the 

big-name chefs to have served up somewhere new. These culinary 

hotspots have 'em clamouring for a table 

DIN TAI FUNG 

Go for: The hottest dumplings in town. 

On Saturdays, Din Tai Fung’s flagship 

restaurant in Taipei 101 serves upwards 

of 10,000 hand-folded dumplings – 

and, judging by the clamour for tables 

at its new Covent Garden outpost, 

its London chefs need to be pretty 

fast-fingered too. The plump xiao long 

bao, with their intricate origami twists, 

taste just like Shanghai’s real deal. 

KUTIR 

Go for: Inventive Indian dishes. 

Not content with having three 

Michelin-accredited restaurants 

under his belt already, chef Rohit 

Ghai is aiming for yet more stars 

with his latest project – Kutir, in 

Chelsea. Expect authentic flavours 

with an international twist, such as 

Gressingham duck korma and jackfruit 

kofta dumplings. The six-course 

‘expedition’ tasting menus are superb. 

CAKES AND BUBBLES 

Go for: Edible art. 

Feast your eyes on Albert Adrià’s 

sweet masterpieces: flowers handcrafted 

from chocolate and coconut, 

crispy ‘air pancakes’ filled with maple 

syrup butter, and the signature 

cheesecakes that put his Barcelona 

restaurant – Tickets – on the map. 

Adrià refined his craft at Michelinstarred 

El Bulli (Ferran is his brother), 

so expect great things from this 

restaurant in Soho’s Hotel Café Royal. 

IMPERIAL TREASURE FINE 

CHINESE CUISINE 

Go for: Truly decadent duck. 

While we could wax lyrical about 

Imperial Treasure’s succulent seafood 

and exquisite dim sum, one dish at this 

Waterloo restaurant always steals the 

limelight: the £100 Signature Peking 

Duck. After a first course of tender 

meat and crispy trimmings, a second 

serving – stir fried, with a variety of 

sauces – makes this a feast you’ll 

rightly return for. 

ENDO AT THE ROTUNDA 

Go for: London’s best bite? 

Endo Kazutoshi’s hotly-anticipated 

sushi restaurant at White City House 

has whipped London’s top food 

writers into a frenzy – and already 

welcomed the King of Jordan. With 

just 15 seats, you’ll need to book 

months ahead, but in the words of 

Times restaurant critic Giles Coren: 

‘It was probably the most perfect 

meal I have eaten in a restaurant’. 

High praise indeed. 

BANCONE 

Go for: A quick bite between 

sightseeing. 

It comes as little surprise to learn that 

Bancone’s founder and head chef, 

Louis Korovilas, is Locanda Locatelli 


Kerridge's Bar and Grill 


alumni. Those dishes of silky oxtail 

ragu pappardelle and tender cuttlefish 

tagliatelle wouldn’t look out of place 

in a Michelin-starred joint – but 

here they’re served in a refreshingly 

laid-back setting, in one of Covent 

Garden’s best-value restaurants. 

OR REVISIT A 

CLASSIC… 

During the '60s Langan's 

Brasserie in Mayfair proved 

a magnet for famous 

faces, pulling in the likes 

of Jagger, Brando and Ali 

while remaining resolutely 

unpretentious. It no longer 

hogs the limelight, but still 

deserves star billing. 

Neptune 

BERENJAK 

Go for: Perfect Persian. 

“With Berenjak, I wanted to evoke the 

style of a rustic hole-in-the-wall eatery 

from Tehran,” says its founder Kian 

Samyani, “and reinterpret signature 

dishes using seasonal British produce.” 

It’s a recipe for success: the chargrilled 

poussin – a juicy, spicy triumph – is 

one of Soho’s hottest dishes right now. 

KERRIDGE’S BAR AND GRILL 

Go for: Great British bites. 

It’s hard to believe that this is Tom 

Kerridge’s first London restaurant, 

but he actually made his name in the 

village of Bray, Berkshire – with the 

double Michelin-starred Hand and 

Flowers. Building on his reputation 

for fine British cuisine, Kerridge’s new 

project (at the Corinthia Hotel) gives 

old favourites such as fish and chips 

and cottage pie the five-star makeover 

they deserve. 

NEPTUNE 

Go for: Oyster ‘happy hour’, 6-7pm. 

The elegant, airy dining room of 

Kimpton Fitzroy London boasts an 

oyster bar, wood-fired grill, and one 

of the most exquisite seafood menus 

in town. Come for lunch, and you’ll 

want to linger on the luxurious leather 

banquettes – supping shellfish and 

swigging vintage bubbly ’til sundown. 

JEAN-GEORGES AT THE 

CONNAUGHT 

Go for: A fancy breakfast. 

The latest addition to Jean-Georges 

Vongerichten’s international empire, 

this Mayfair restaurant is open for 

breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon 

tea. Our tip? Book breakfast in the 

light-flooded conservatory: the menu 

is just as globetrotting as J-G himself, 

and includes spicy Indian dosas, 

homebaked brioche, and truffle-laced 

scrambled eggs. 


Hampton Court Palace 

SUMMER’S HOTTEST TICKETS 

From the Proms to grime, Kubrick to da Vinci; London’s 

summer events offer something for everyone 

MARY QUANT 

Where? Victoria and Albert Museum 

When? 6 April-16 February 2020 

She was the visionary that changed 

the world of fashion forever – and this 

summer’s Mary Quant retrospective 

at the V&A is a colourful caper indeed. 

From makeup to miniskirts, over 200 

garments and accessories are now on 

display, including many pieces from the 

designer’s personal archive. vam.ac.uk 

BEASTS OF LONDON 

Where? Museum of London 

When? 5 April-5 January 2020 

Designed especially for inquisitive kids, 

this immersive digital installation will 

tell the story of London through the 

eyes of its animal residents: from lions 

and elephants, to horses, rats and – of 

course – pigeons. See if you can spot the 

famous voices, including Brian Blessed, 

Nish Kumar and Stephen Mangan. 

museumoflondon.org.uk 

LEONARDO DA VINCI: A MIND IN 

MOTION 

Where? The British Library 

When? 7 June-8 September 

Showcasing the highlights of Leonardo 

da Vinci’s extraordinary notebooks, this 

unique exhibition will mark the 500th 

anniversary of his death. From waves to 

winds, da Vinci considered motion to be 

‘the cause of all life’ – and the exhibition 

will explore his theories further, shining a 

light on one of the greatest thinkers and 

scientists of all time. bl.uk 

ANTONY GORMLEY 

Where? Royal Academy of Arts 

When? 21 September-3 December 

He’s best-known for his epic Angel of the 

North, but Sir Antony Gormley’s oeuvre 

spans decades, materials, and disciplines 

galore – and this summer he’ll be taking 

over the RA, too. This significant solo 

exhibition will display his early works 

alongside large-scale installations 

All Points East 

made especially for this Mayfair gallery. 

royalacademy.org.uk 

ALL POINTS EAST 

Where? Victoria Park 

When? 24 May-2 June 

With headliners including The Chemical 

Brothers, Primal Scream, and Christine 



OR REVISIT A 

CLASSIC… 

One of the longest running 

shows in West End history 

(seen by almost 10 million 

alone in London), WICKED, 

the big hit musical about 

the Witches of Oz, 

released a further 470,000 

new tickets last month. 

Go get some. 

and the Queens, it’s hard to believe that 

this East London festival is only in its 

second year. Set over two weekends, 

it’s a great place to catch up-andcoming 

London acts performing 

alongside the big global names. 

allpointseastfestival.com 

HAMPTON COURT PALACE 

FESTIVAL 

Where? Hampton Court Palace 

When? Various dates 

Explore one of London’s greatest royal 

residences in star-studded company – 

including Kylie, Nile Rodgers, and Tears 

For Fears. After a day exploring the 

stately splendour of Hampton Court 

Palace – and feasting on afternoon 

tea – the evening brings incredible al 

fresco performances, complete with a 

full orchestra playing under the stars. 

hamptoncourtpalacefestival.com 

WIRELESS 

Where? Finsbury Park 

When? 5-7 July 

One of the biggest weekends for rap and 

grime obsessives, Wireless will see the 

likes of Cardi B, A$AP Rocky and Travis 

Scott descend on Finsbury Park. Like 

the sound of that? Don’t miss Lovebox 

(Gunnersbury Park, 12-13 July) – featuring 

Solange, Loyle Carner, Chance the 

Rapper and more. wirelessfestival.co.uk & 

loveboxfestival.com 

BBC PROMS 2019 

Where? Royal Albert Hall 

When? Various dates 

Taking over this incredible venue 

every summer since 1941, The Proms is 

London’s biggest and best celebration of 

classical music. It has moved deftly with 

the times: 2018 saw Beethoven’s Fifth 

restyled as a punk triumph, the festival’s 

first virtual reality recital, and the BBC 

Concert Orchestra collaborating with 

some of the biggest names in folk 

music. royalalberthall.com 

LEE KRASNER; LIVING COLOUR 

Where? Barbican Centre 

When? 30 May-1 September 

For too long, the work of Lee Krasner 

has been overshadowed by that of her 

husband, Jackson Pollack – but not for 

much longer. The Barbican’s summer 

exhibition will bring Krasner’s bold, 

bright canvases to the fore, revealing 

her as a true pioneer of Abstract 

Expressionism. With nearly 100 works 

Lee Krasner 

Beasts of London 

on display, this will be one of the most 

far-reaching Krasner retrospectives to 

date. barbican.org.uk 

STANLEY KUBRICK: THE 

EXHIBITION 

Where? The Design Museum 

When? 26 April-15 September 

From The Shining to A Clockwork 

Orange, Kubrick’s classics are 

countless – and this immersive 

exhibition details the inspirations 

and talent that brought them to 

life. With insight from rare artefacts, 

interviews and unseen footage, this 

is a fascinating deep-dive into the 

director’s obsessive genius – a mustsee 

for any film fan. 

designmuseum.org 


Pat Mcgrath Labs 

OR REVISIT A 

CLASSIC… 

There's always something 

cutting edge at old 

favourite Selfridges and 

last month saw cult beauty 

brand PAT MCGRATH 

LABS set up a threemonth 

residency, which 

includes exclusive in-store 

beauty services. 

WHAT’S IN STORE 

London’s always on-trend shopping scene fuels the need for a mid-spree spruce 

DESIGNS FOR LIFE 

When Coal Drops Yard first opened its 

doors last November, all eyes were on 

the mall’s cutting-edge threads – by 

Paul Smith, Cos, Superga, et al – but 

now its homewares are hogging the 

limelight. From pared-back Scandi 

lighting at iyouall to hand-forged 

knives at Kitchen Provisions, this new 

Kings Cross collective includes some 

of Europe’s most inventive designers. 

Tom Dixon’s boutique showcases his 

iconic ‘S Chair’ – a gravity-defying 

squiggle of furniture – while French 

emporium Caravane is stuffed with 

sumptuous fabrics. Short on suitcase 

space? Head to Miller Harris for 

naturally-inspired home fragrances, or 

to Bonds for hand-poured candles. 

HIGH STREET HEAVEN 

It isn’t quite The Dubai Mall 

proportions, but Europe’s biggest 

shopping mall, Westfield London, got 

a £600 million makeover last year – 

so it’s only polite to pay a visit. New 

names include Urban Revivo (for fast 

fashion from Asia), Frencheye (for 

men’s tailoring), and Cath Kidston 

(for those iconic floral prints). But the 

real boon is John Lewis’s new flagship 

store, which puts many of Britain’s 

best ateliers – plus plenty more from 

Europe and beyond – in one superstylish 

spot. As well as oodles of 

fashion and beauty brands (including 

in-store manicures and facials) there’s 

the Style Studio – where you can 

explore London’s latest trends. 

BEST OF BEAUTY 

Shopping taking its toll on your mani? 

Perfectly positioned for a mid-spree 

spruce, House of Lady Muck (HOLM) 

has just opened in Topshop’s Oxford 

Circus emporium – the hottest new 

salon in town. Check out HOLM’s Insta: 

its nail art is sublime – and a snip, from 

just £18. Provence-inspired beauty 

powerhouse L’Occitaine recently 

opened its new flagship store in 

Covent Garden – replete with a Pierre 

Hermé macaron bar. For more paredback 

skincare, head to Aesop (just 

opened in Coal Drops Yard) or nearby 

FaceGym, which promises surgeryfree 

lifts by working the ‘40 forgotten 

muscles’ of the face. Definitely 

something to write home about. 



FUEL FOR YOUR FEED 

Want your wall to pop with style? Smartphones at the ready 

for these instaworthy venues 

The Gallery at Sketch 

THE HOTEL 

Every inch of the Bloomsbury Hotel 

is sheer Insta heaven. The striking 

botanical-print wallpaper; the Murano 

glass chandeliers; the monochrome 

marble bathrooms – and, of course, the 

gorgeous Dalloway Terrace restaurant. 

Its décor changes with the seasons: 

this spring, festooned with silk blooms, 

it became a jungle of fuschia orchids 

and passion flowers. @dallowayterrace 

Kew's Royal Botanic Gardens 

Dalloway Terrace at The Bloomsbury Hotel 

THE MUSEUM 

The British Museum’s Great Court is an 

Instagram star in its own right. When 

the sun shines, the domed glass roof 

shimmers – casting geometric shadows 

across the exquisitely curvaceous 

courtyard. How to capture it best? 

Head to the upper floor gallery area, 

and coincide your visit with the Manga 

exhibition (23 May - 29 August) for 

some seriously striking shots. 

@britishmuseum 

THE RESTAURANT 

You’ll recognise Sketch’s bubblegum 

pink décor and marshmallow-esque 

banquettes as soon as you step 

through the door – but The Gallery 

(a brasserie) is just one part of this 

Mayfair Insta-sensation. Even the 

bathrooms – eerie, egg-shaped pods – 

are irresistibly snappable. 

@sketchlondon 

THE GARDEN 

With their exotic flowers, immaculate 

lawns, and towering trees, Kew’s Royal 

Botanic Gardens always look great on 

the ’gram – and this summer (from 13 

April) they’ll be more gorgeous than 

ever. Dale Chihuly, the world’s most 

celebrated glass artist, will be taking 

over the gardens with his delicate-yetdazzling 

creations. @kewgardens 

THE ICON 

Tower Bridge has straddled the River 

Thames for 125 years, and it has never 

looked better. The angle’s up to you: 

a cross-water panorama from London 

Bridge? A downward-facing shot from 

the glass walkway? A selfie from St 

Katharine Docks? Just try and squeeze 

the Shard into the frame too. 

@towerbridge 


Ramadan Kareem 

For Iftar with a difference, join us at the newly opened 

Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra which will host 

a unique Indian 10-course set menu. 

Available from sunset until 8.30pm. 

T +971.4.414.3000 

jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

masalalibrarydxb

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Gros Piton in 

Southern St. Lucia 

Postcards 

Stories from journeys 

far and wide 

CALIFORNIA p36 

HOLLAND p42 

ST LUCIA p48 


CALIFORNIA 

With retro good looks and bunk space for 

two, an Airstream trailer is the hippest way to 

holiday in California. Hotels? Who needs ’em? 

Jenni Doggett hits cruise control 


CALIFORNIA 

fter 250km, turn left.’ 

California’s epic scale 

has rendered my satnav 

redundant. But at least we don’t have 

to worry about making it to the hotel in 

time: my friend Sergio and I are touring 

the Golden State with accommodation 

in tow. Our home for the fortnight 

is a classic Airstream trailer, one of 

those shiny aluminium bullets (don’t 

call them caravans) that have graced 

the highways of America since 1931. 

As well as 90-odd years of history, the 

space-age-silver trailer comes with a 

glamorous Hollywood pedigree: name 

an A-lister and they probably own one 

— Hanks, Pitt, McConaughey, Depp et al 

have all fallen for its vintage-Americana 

looks and freedom-of-the-open-road 

mythology. The film-star version is 

probably a bit more substantial than 

ours, mind: Sergio and I have booked 

the smallest model available, a 5.5m 

‘Bambi’, along with a muscular fourwheel 

drive to tow it. Truth be told, our 

Bambi looked a little ignoble beside a 

truck almost twice its length, but I’d 

been assured that, for a first-time RV 

driver like me, it’s manageable, cosy 

and maintains a sheen of cool in spite 

of its size and resemblance to a toaster. 

So, at a rental lot on the outskirts of 

San Francisco, we receive a quick briefing 

on how to hook up the power and empty 

the tanks, then we’re off, leaving the city 

at rush hour, me terrified of Downtown’s 

famously treacherous gradients. 

Hunched like a tense crow, I grip the 

steering wheel, barely reaching double- 


CALIFORNIA 

digit speeds for the first few kilometres. 

Urban rush hour aside, the US is 

built for these beasts, and once we 

get across the Golden Gate and out of 

the metropolis my confidence swells. 

The gears are automatic, the roads 

broad and the locals forgiving. 

We’d chosen the state for our 

Airstream adventure partly because 

this is where Wally Byam founded the 

company in 1931, partly because nowhere 

else in America says, ‘Go west, young 

man... Head out on the highway... This 

land is your land... Wherever you lay 

your hat, that’s your home...’ and all 

the rest of it quite like California. 

And then there’s the variety. California 

comes with a range of terrain that 

makes it a road-trip dream: temperate 

rainforests, alpine mountains and vast 

tracts of desert, as well as the more 

clement Pacific coast stretching south 

from Los Angeles. We haven’t made too 

much of a plan — the whole point of an 

RV is that you’re not tied to a schedule or 

itinerary, so you can pull over and stay any 

place that calls to you — but we do decide 

at the outset to reject the iconic Route 

101 in favour of a loop heading north to 

the Redwoods and the wilderness that 

we could experience in our Airstream in 

a way we never could staying in a hotel. 

It’s pretty civilised to start with. Vivid 

red Budweiser and Coca-Cola trucks 

coast past, the commercial lifeblood of 

America flowing along the country’s 

vast asphalt arteries. We lumber by 

hilly vineyards and quaint country 

towns — Philo, Boonville, Cloverdale 

— full of wholesome homemade-pie 

shops and hand- painted signs. Streets 

bristle with wooden porches, hanging 

flowers and palpable civic pride, and 

we pass scores of eccentric emporia: 

the Here’s Hair Salon, Independence 

Guns and Ammo, the Love In It Co-op 

(a medical herb dispensary). We snack 

‘ 

THE SMITH 

RIVER RASPS 

PAST, AND 

SMALL STREAMS 

CHUCKLE AWAY 

UNDER FALLEN 

TRUNKS 

’ 

on punnets of two-dollar honestybox 

cherries from local farms. 

Keen to plug in for our first night 

while it’s still light, we’ve reserved a 

spot in an almost empty campground in 

Manchester, Mendocino County. Early 

May is the perfect time to travel here: 

the parks are quiet and we’re pretty 

much alone. At reception we’re issued 

with a camp map and allotted a site 

number. These places are seamlessly 

managed, and navigation is easy — we 

circle Sunshine Drive and turn off 

Happy Kamping Way — but still with 

a proper dose of nature: the narrow 

gravel track peters out at our parking 

spot between towering tinselly firs. 

While I build a fire and crack open 

some Californian red, Sergio hooks 

us up to the mains. The campground 

is well catered for, with electricity, 

water, pump-out, shower block and a 

bear box to protect food supplies. The 

cleverly conceived Airstream interior 

we’d so carefully packed, however, has 

rearranged itself into a Jackson Pollock 

of ketchup and socks. It takes time to 

get used to living in such a small space, 

but as the trip progresses we learn 

how best to seal, wedge and stuff our 

possessions to minimise the carnage. 

Every day we devise new ways to make 

do with our resources: I discover that 

black pants make a passable eye mask for 

sleeping through those early sunrises. 

The next morning, however, we hit 

serious trouble, with our 4WD’s engine 

emitting a sulky grunt followed by 

silence. Our neighbours convene around 

the stubbornly unresponsive motor 

and various theories are advanced. I’m 

worried we forgot to flip a connection and 

drained the batteries, but our advisory 

panel kindly demurs. ‘You know what’s 

wrong?’ says Glen, a wry glint flickering. 

‘It’s a Ford.’ (All-round mirth.) Twenty 

minutes and a squirt of something 

homemade later, we are on our way — 

with a glovebox full of numbers to call 

should we have any more problems. 

It’s clear from the affectionate, slightly 

covetous glances we receive on leaving, 

that the Airstream has successfully 

initiated us into the RV fraternity. 

We push on up the coast through Fort 

Bragg, Garberville and Eureka, as all 

the while the Pacific hurls itself angrily 

ashore in dark grey arcs on our left. We’re 

keen to get some distance covered, and 

still apprehensive of any manoeuvre 

more complicated than straight driving, 

so we barely stop on the first day, lapsing 

into a cruise-control trance. Gradually 

we relax, and life resolves itself into a set 

of simple priorities: where to sleep and 

find firewood, fill up and empty tanks. 

One of California’s main draws for us is 

that it has more national parks than any 

other state — not to mention hundreds 

more state parks, many of which you can 

stay in — and our next night is spent 

at the Redwood State Park RV Resort. 

We quickly ditch the trailer and head 

to nearby Stout Grove, which doesn’t 

have the biggest trees in the region, but 

is staggeringly, serenely beautiful. 

We wander by belt-high sword ferns, 

bright-yellow banana slugs and outsized 

sorrel. The wind builds a gentle 

snare-drum-roll high up in the canopy, 

animating the leaves then swishing 

away. The Smith river rasps past, and 

Credit: Jenni Doggett/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News licensing 


CALIFORNIA 

This page, clockwise from top left: 

leaving the city behind via Golden Gate 

Bridge; Lake Helen at Lassen Volcanic 

National Park; a burst of sun at Redwood 

National Park; parked under the stars 

at El Capitan State Beach; reading time 

aside a mountain lake 

GOLDEN 

GLOW 

Diwali (7 

November) 

is one of 


CALIFORNIA 

Panamint mountains 

small streams chuckle away under fallen 

trunks. Prehistoric moss is delicately 

draped over ancient branches. 

I stretch out on the sun-warmed 

pebbles at the water’s edge. Far removed 

from the bleeps and screens of city 

life, I feel myself slowly filling up with 

whatever it is that urban living siphons 

away — something atomic is soothed. 

Heading east, to Lassen Volcanic 

National Park, we become doubly grateful 

for having all our gear in tow. The 

weather here is rarely a polite British 

mist or mild bluster — it’s more extreme. 

The wind has teeth. In fact, there’s some 

question as to whether we will manage 

this stretch, blizzards having recently 

closed the roads, but we push on. We’re 

rewarded by a surreal hike through the 

snowy hydrothermal peaks. Steaming 

fumaroles and sulphur vents flank the 

path, spluttering mud pots and boiling 

springs mutter and pop as we pass. 

We suck fistfuls of snow and listen 

to indigo-crested pine jays ack-ack 

at each other from icy branches. We 

sleep soundly in the snug confines 

of our aluminium abode, wake with 

the sun blushing through panoramic 

windows, and feel ourselves slipping 

deeper into the landscape each day. 

Further south, at Lake Tahoe, our 

campsite has just opened for the season, 

so we have a grand sandy-beach view 

of the deepest lake in America all to 

ourselves. We’re seat-shaped and tetchy 

from too much driving, so we take a 

few days out, to kayak and stretch our 

legs, relishing the freedom to change 

our plans on a whim, and pitying 

those poor fools locked into their prebooked 

hotel regime. Tired of our own 

cooking, we eat at a restaurant called, 

unpromisingly, the Naked Fish — and 

feast on fresh local sushi, which turns 

out to be some of the best I’ve ever had. 

When we do hit the road again, we 

head towards Death Valley — with a 

stop en route, somewhat incongruously, 

at Walmart. I’d heard RVs are welcome 

to stay overnight in the grocery 

giant’s car parks for free (it’s known 

as Wallydocking, apparently), but 

seriously doubted the appeal — until I 

saw the Gardnerville branch, with its 

crisp, dramatic view across the whitetipped 

peaks of the Sierra Nevada. 

And sure enough, a row of enormous 

motorhomes were parked up neatly in 

the far corner of the lot. One owner, 

lazing in a deckchair, nods an unspoken 

assertion that this is the life. 

At the other end of the spectrum, 

there’s ‘boondocking’ — dry camping 

in the middle of nowhere, with no 

power hook-up — and we become more 

confident at it as the days pass. (We also 

become more dependent on it, as we 

realise how we’ve underestimated the 

distances involved out here: serpentine 

mountain roads with violent chicanes 

make for fun driving, but slow going, 

and the engine growls and strains.) In 

fact, of my two favourite nights, one was 

spent in an unbooked state-run ‘dry’ 

park we stumbled upon, and the other 

was in the open desert of Death Valley. 

If ever you doubted your mortality, 

the desert will soon put you right. The 

suffocating stillness and telephone poles 

all state that you do not belong here. 

There is an acrid scent of searing tarmac 

in the air, and our vision quivers as the 

temperature hits 38c. Death Valley is one 

of the lowest inland spots on Earth, and 

Furnace Creek (population: 24) is at an 

‘elevation’ of 60m below sea level. Even 

with its Visitor Centre, it’s intimidating; 

but as the afternoon passes, a breeze 

stirs up dust and brings some life to 

this airless place. We watch for a while 

as a pair of wild russet mares stand 

mirrored, bowing over a sleeping foal. 

Pulling off the road at dusk, we 

fall into our usual routine around 

the fire. But the Airstream has one 

last surprise for us. By accident, I 

discover that its internal showerhead 

can actually be pulled outside via a 

hatch — so we shower off the day’s 

dust in the middle of an empty desert. 

The sun fades fast over the venerable 

Panamint Mountains, grand marbled 

strata of cream and grey; countless 

stars form a celestial dot-to-dot; 

and, amazingly, I don’t have to leave. 

I get to stay here, to merge into it 

all. I don’t need a sat-nav to tell me 

I have reached my destination. 

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com 


CALIFORNIA 

‘ 

THE SUN FADES FAST 

OVER THE VENERABLE 

PANAMINT MOUNTAINS, 

GRAND MARBLED STRATA 

OF CREAM AND GREY 

’ 



This page and 

following pages: 

Fairy tale houses and 

adventure rides 

await at Efteling 

NETHERLANDS 

The author Maggie O’Farrell falls under the spell 

of a fairytale theme park, family-friendly cycle 

trails and a moated town 

W 

e are in the middle of breakfast when Red Riding Hood 

turns up. She skips — yes, skips — to the table, swinging 

her basket, and trills: “How are you today?” 

My youngest daughter stares, astonished, croissant in 

hand. She examines this vision, from the buckled shoes to the red cape, 

then she looks across the room to where a knight in full armour is engaging 

a table of children in a sword display. 

Such is life at Efteling, the Netherlands’ enormous fairytale 

extravaganza, 100km south of Amsterdam, where fantasy is to be imbibed 

with your daily bread. If, like me, the words ‘theme park’ make you shudder 

or, when paired with the word ‘Disney’, bring you out in hives, you might 

find this place more palatable. 

You won’t find any kitsch, bowdlerised renderings of folk tales. No 

singing rabbits or anthropomorphised deer. No overly gendered or cutesy 

messages are rammed home. Efteling is, instead, refreshingly loyal to its 

traditional storytelling roots. 

This isn’t to say that there isn’t a commercial side: there is and, good 

grief, it’s huge. The sun is out when we arrive and people are stolidly 

queueing for 45 minutes for the rides. There are river-rapid boats that circle 

you round and round while spraying you with water; rollercoasters that 


CANADA 

shuttle you upside down and round 

about; a ghost train; a haunted house... 

Just watching makes me feel dizzy, but 

my teenage son seizes his day pass and 

disappears, delighted. 

Much more my pace — and that of my 

six-year-old — is the little steam train 

that circles the perimeter of the park. 

We like it so much that we go twice, 

sitting behind the driver, a silver-haired 

woman, possibly in her sixties, who 

hefts coal into the furnace. The woman 

next to me has her grandson on her 

knee. She tells me that she lives near by 

and has been coming here all her life. 

“My parents took me,” she says, “then we 

took our children, and now I bring my 

grandchildren.” 

Efteling was originally, she says, 

the idea of a local priest who, after the 

war, wanted to establish a place where 

children could play. So the mayor 

designated an area of forest for a football 

pitch and a playground. “And then,” she 

continues, “in the Fifties they started 

making the fairytale scenes.” 

These scenes are the reason I’m here. 

Efteling’s Sprookjesbos (Fairytale 

Forest) sprang from the imagination 

of Anton Pieck. Even if the name 

means nothing to you, you will almost 

certainly be familiar with his work: his 

illustrations shape the way we think 

about folk tales. All those crowded, 

cross-beamed houses and luscious, 

toadstool-studded forests. There were 

‘ 

THE 

INSTALLATIONS 

ARE LIFE-SIZED, 

SO CHILDREN 

CAN WALK 

THROUGH 

SLEEPING 

BEAUTY'S 

SOMNOLENT 

PALACE 

’ 

several of his pictures on the walls of 

my nursery school and I also owned 

a copy of Arabian Nights that was 

illustrated by him. 

So I have come to walk through his 

Sprookjesbos with my children (except 

the eldest, who mystifyingly opts 

for further torture by rollercoaster). 

What happens is this: you walk along a 

winding path, through a thick fleece of 

oak trees and, just when you least expect 

it, you will come upon a scene. The 

house of the seven kids (young goats) 

with a becloaked wolf knocking at the 

door; Rapunzel in her tower, watching 

a mechanised witch ascend her plait; 

Geppetto’s shop, with dancing mice and 

leaping chisels; a donkey that excretes 

silver coins at the press of a button. 

It is, of course, utterly magical, but 

with that slightly sinister Pieck edge. 

The wolves have teeth, the dragon roars, 

the giant fish smells appropriately 

piscine. The installations are life-sized, 

so children can walk through Sleeping 

Beauty’s somnolent palace and gaze up 

at a sugary but lethal gingerbread house 

that just might swallow them up. 

What baffles me most about Efteling 

is that the people in our neighbouring 

forest lodges, at the buffet, on the steam 

carousel, are largely Dutch, with a light 

sprinkling of Belgians. How come more 

nationalities don’t visit? 

It is a question that returns again 

and again as we venture farther into 

Brabant, the low-lying, southernmost 

region of the Netherlands and the 

birthplace of Hieronymus Bosch and 

Vincent van Gogh. 

A day or so later we are in the middle 

of Heusden, a small, walled town on 

the River Meuse. “In order to stop 

cannonballs in their tracks,” our guide is 

saying, “all the streets were built with a 

slight curve in them.” We look and, sure 

enough, the long, narrow street has a 

slight kink at the end. Our guide points 

up to a high gable, where a cannonball 

remains embedded, a black pustule in 

the brick work. 

Heusden, once the locus of fierce 

and bloody battles, is today filled with 

autumn sunshine: dogs are slumbering 

in doorways and people are sitting in 

coffee houses. A few bicycles swish 


NETHERLANDS 


NETHERLANDS 

along the cobbles, past the hollyhocks 

and green-painted front doors. A more 

peaceful place would be hard to find, but 

Heusden’s strategic position on the river 

has meant a chequered past: first the 

Spanish invaded, then the French and 

then the Nazis. 

On a map the town looks like a 

cartographer’s doodle. Follow the Meuse 

inland and you’ll find wide, estuarial 

meanders until you come to a startling 

star-shaped blot in the middle of all that 

blue water. This is Heusden, constructed 

with defence in mind, ringed by moats 

and ravelins, trying in vain to keep out 

conquering armies. 

As we stand on the town walls, gazing 

over the moat, my husband says: “If 

this place was in Tuscany it would be 

mobbed.” He has a point. Heusden is 

remarkably beautiful and bafflingly 

empty. We take a boat up the Meuse, we 

wander the narrow streets, we admire 

the creaking sails of the windmill, 

we buy cloth mice at the toyshop, we 

have pancakes at the café, all the while 

encountering barely another tourist. 

It’s hard to imagine a more perfect 

place than Brabant for a family holiday. 

The landscape is straight from a 

Breugel painting, with flat fields, dykes, 

windmills and grazing cows. 

As well as Efteling, there is the 

newly opened holiday camp of Beeske 

Bergen Safari Park, where you can have 

breakfast on a terrace next to herds 

of impala and wildebeest, and briefly 

pretend you’re in Tanzania. The ranger 

who drives us around to see the giraffe 

calf and the lemurs, which have an 

entertaining penchant for climbing on 

anyone wearing a backpack, confirms 

that the park hardly gets any visitors 

further afield. “I don’t know why,” she 

says with a shrug. 

Did I mention the joy of family 

cycling? If, like us, you have exited the 

buggy years, a relaxing stroll around a 

historical town centre can be fraught. 

Children are not natural flâneurs and 

in the face of a city amble tend to stage 

early mutinies, citing exhaustion and/ 

or malnutrition. In the unusually 

punctuated town of ’s-Hertogenbosch, 

however, we hit on the solution: hire 

a cargo bike for the smallest child, a 

tandem for the other two, and off we go. 

Dutch streets are a cyclist’s dream. You 

‘ 

ON A MAP 

THE NOW 

PEACEFUL TOWN 

OF HEUSDEN 

LOOKS LIKE A 

CARTOGRAHER'S 

DOODLE 

’ 

can hire a bike pretty much anywhere, at 

any hour. In the pecking order of traffic, 

bicycles come a firm first, followed 

by scooters, then electric cars, with 

motorcars trailing shamefacedly behind. 

There are proper sectioned-off lanes, 

designated crossings, special traffic 

lights. Everybody, cycles, from newborns 

cocooned in slings on their pedalling 

parents’ chests, to octogenarians with 

their shopping. 

My husband and I get our fix of 

urban wanderings, albeit at a hugely 

accelerated pace. Our youngest child 

shrieks into the wind from her cargo 

cabin; the other two are zooming ahead 

on their tandem; nobody is wearing 

a helmet and I try not to watch as my 

middle child is steered gleefully close to 

the water’s edge by her brother. Canals, 

cathedrals, windmills, cottages, cattle 

and lock gates whizz past. Nobody 

complains about tired legs and nobody 

demands a compensatory ice cream, not 

even once. 

Several circuits of the town later, 

we lock up the bikes and take a boat 

around ’s-Hertogenbosch’s waterways, 

which thread themselves underneath 

the streets and buildings. The 14thcentury 

brick arches house colonies of 

slumbering bats and, as the boat slides 

along the dank water, flashes of blue sky 

appear down drains, plumblines of light 

reaching into the dark. 

How can it be that, for the most part, 

tourists will go to the thronged streets 

of Amsterdam, but no farther? That they 

are yet to discover what lies only a couple 

of hours south of that city? On my return 

I am seized with a near-evangelical urge 

to grip my friends by the arms and say: 

“Go to the Netherlands. Quick, before 

everyone else does.” 



Credit: Maggie O’Farrell/The Times/News Licensing 


This page: Heusden, 

designed with potential 

This invaders page: in Soft, mind 

colourful corals around 

Lizard Island 



ST LUCIA 

Local markets, spicy food and 

real people to mingle with: selfcatering 

in St Lucia is your key to 

getting a true taste of Caribbean 

life, says Liz Edwards 


ad it all been a terrible mistake? 

As I lay awake for too much 

of our first night on St Lucia, 

I couldn’t help wondering. Because 

although I had made sure that our 

cottage — cute and characterful on a 

former plantation estate — came with 

a kitchen, I had neglected to check it 

would actually have windows. We had 

bars for security, floaty curtains for 

modesty and mozzie nets for sanity. 

But amid dense greenery and without 

glass, our bedroom came with a megadecibel 

lullaby. In lieu of sleep, we had 

a drumbeat downpour, we had singing 

cicadas, we had countless croaks and 

ribbits and — bai-ee-ai — the full, 

fortissimo frog chorus. We all groaned 

together. But my husband was so cross 

— irate of the Caribbean — he couldn’t 

even relish his ‘I told you so’ moment. 

It had all made perfect sense to me 

back home. On European holidays, I’d 

reasoned, we loved the villa thing — 

stocking up at the market, chatting with 

the grannies over the shopping basket, 

hanging out with villagers in the nearest 

bar. This time we’d do all that, just in 

tropical temperatures in the Caribbean. 

And with less bling than Barbados and 

less edge than Jamaica, St Lucia would be 

the easiest, friendliest, safest Caribbean 

island for us to get a taste of local life. 

My husband was sceptical. He’d visited 

the mountainous island in a former 

life as a brochure writer and knew its 

strengths as the honeymoon favourite, 

all discreet service and petal-strewn 

romance. I’d convinced him we could 

find something more authentic than 

a hermetically sealed resort, make a 

more natural connection with the island 

than we would on a hotel excursion. 

We’d stay in the less-developed south, 

self-cater, self-drive, self-congratulate. 

And yet here we were, wishing for 

some of that lovely hermetic sealing. 

Predictably, as we emerged the next 

morning from our shrub-surrounded 

cottage into the sunlight, things looked 

brighter. We were staying on Balenbouche 

Estate, an old coffee plantation in the 

south of the island that’s now a hybrid 

of organic farm, heritage site and 

accommodation — ours was one of a 

handful of cottages dotted around the 

Deep South-y grounds. Broad lawns 

flowed between magnificent mango, 

banyan and flame trees; an old rum 

still sat here, a rustic cotton barn there; 

waterlily ponds ran alongside a path 

to one of the estate’s wild beaches. 

Hummingbirds and finches flitted; 

there were cats, dogs, cows and horses 

— and at the centre of it all were the 

lovely 19th century wooden plantation 

house and Uta Lawaetz, the hippy-fierce, 

Austrian-born woman who’s kept the 

place going since the 1980s, when her 

former father-in-law owned it. As we 

listened to her stories over breakfast 

on her breeze-cooled verandah that 

morning (our own cupboards still bare), 

it all began to feel rather romantic 

and heartwarming and natural. 

And things were about to look brighter 

still. An overseas supermarket is a 

thing of joy, isn’t it? Shopping becomes 

a brilliant treasure hunt for comedy 

brand names, unfamiliar packaging, 

what’s-that-for? ingredients, who’sthat-for? 

flavours. I love it, and I loved 

Massy Stores, 15 minutes’ drive east of 

the cottage. The big fruit ’n’ veg section 

was awash with all kinds of roots, sea 

moss and ‘Vel’s Mauby Bark’ (still no 

idea). We weren’t surprised to find a 

million barbecue and hot pepper sauces 

(we bought fearsome Viking, the local 

brand), but were taken aback to see 

Essential Waitrose olives, Bovril, Dorset 

Cereals and Branston Pickle. A cornflakes 

pack came with a recipe for Chicken 

Party Salad (very ’70s dinner party); 

Best of all, we found Alma at the 

till. Scanning the contents of our 

enthusiastically loaded trolley, she had 

plenty of time to let us pick her brains 

about St Lucian ways to spend our week. 

We should go to the Choiseul craft centre 

just beyond Balenbouche to buy straw 

hats and clay pots, she said; to Soufrière 

market for island- grown fruit, veg and 

herbs. She sucked her teeth when I asked 

if there was a less touristy alternative to 

the Sulphur Springs volcanic mud baths: 

‘Those baths keep me looking young. 

You might see me there this weekend!’ 

Tips noted, groceries decanted, it was 

— finally! — beach time. We’d already 


spotted a likely suspect; 10 minutes east 

of Balenbouche we nosed the car off the 

main road and down into Laborie (‘Labree’), 

a drowsy wee town that was big on 

its street names: Dame Pearlette Louisy 

Drive, Martin Luther King Street, Elvis 

Presley Boulevard. And the beach? You 

might not spot it in the brochures — one 

too many fondant-fancy houses on the 

lush hills around the bay, perhaps; no 

hotel staff to rake the sand — but it was 

no scrub. Half a dozen little motorboats 

bobbed prettily in the shallows, palms 

leant protectively over the sand from 

between fishing shacks and sea almond 

trees. We paddled, sandcastled and 

swam, the beach our own, frog chorus 

forgotten. Lunch — grilled-fish wraps 

— was a few metres away at palmthatched 

Salt Rush Café, where the 

only other customers were Stuart and 

Wendy from Alberta, house-sitting 

for a friend on the island and back 

here at Salt Rush for the fifth time in a 

fortnight. They’d been to the volcano, 

visited the botanic gardens, but were 

happier here contemplating the horizon. 

I asked Wilson, the guy in charge, if 

it was always this quiet. ‘Sometimes 

quieter in the day,’ he shrugged. ‘But 

it’ll be different this evening...’ 

‘ 

BROAD LAWNS 

FLOWED 

BETWEEN 

MAGNIFICENT 

MANGO, BANYAN 

AND FLAME 

TREES 

’ 

With that, Wilson had saved us a long, 

twisty drive in the dark. Friday evenings 

on St Lucia, as on other Caribbean islands, 

mean Fish Fry — time for a barbecuefuelled 

street party. A few towns do 

them; the one in Gros Islet sounded 

cheesy so I’d earmarked Anse la Raye, 

a 90-minute wiggle up the west-coast 

road, as St Lucia’s best local-tinged bet. 

But there was no need to go that far. 

Laborie’s monthly Fish Fry was tonight. 

And a very casual, community-spirited 

affair it was —with twerk-along sound 

systems turned up past 11. Even shouted 

conversation was tricky, so I did well 

to make out the verdict from Brad, my 

picnic-bench neighbour: ‘The fish is 

better at Gros Islet but you get lots of 

tourists! Laborie is for St Lucians!’ We 

ST LUCIA 

grazed on grilled fish, pork stew, 

savoury doughnut ‘bakes’. There was 

‘fig salad’, a mix of tuna and green 

banana — like that ancient Yellow 

Pages TV ad with the bloke ordering 

pizza for his pregnant wife — which 

actually tasted excellent (moral: never 

doubt the pregnant lady). At half-nine 

we called it a night; we’d had enough 

of the volume, though my husband 

found the silver lining: ‘Maybe the 

tinnitus will drown out the frogs.’ 

That wasn’t the last we saw of 

Laborie, but we did explore other bits 

of the island, too. You’ll spot the twin 

Piton peaks on everything from beer 

labels to the masonic-looking national 

flag, but you’re probably not allowed 

to leave without seeing the west-coast 

icons in the pointy, jungle-clad flesh. 

Luckily they’re quite big, so we didn’t 

have to switchback too far up the 

west coast before they began sliding 

in and out of our windshield view. 

Petit Piton certainly looked pretty 

impressive looming up behind the 

seafront at Soufrière. Either we 

arrived too late to see its streetside 

market in full flow or it was having 

an off day (whereas Alma’s tip about 

Sulphur Springs, a few miles back, 

Opening pages: grilled 

prawn salad; climbing a 

tree against the backdrop 

of a fiery sunset 

This page: Petit Piton 

above Margretoute Bay 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

was a goodie — we shared its murky 30C 

waters with visitors and St Lucians, and 

left feeling soothed and smoothed). But 

one vendor did show me the Creole way 

to drink from a green coconut — the 

top machete’d off flat (no Piton-pointy 

whittling), and no straw. What price 

dignity when authenticity and singleuse 

plastics are at stake, I thought 

nobly, as it dribbled down my chin. 

But the best view of the Pitons came 

600m above sea level at Tet Paul, a 

community-run nature trail through an 

organic farm, where we learnt a bit of 

history, and a bit about local produce, 

medicinal plants and other exotic flora 

— but mainly gawped at the sight of 

both Pitons rearing up dramatically 

from the sea. The beer label hadn’t done 

them justice. But my husband still had 

amphibians on his mind: ‘They’re like 

giant toads emerging from a pond.’ 

The furthest north we got was 

Rodney Bay, where the topography 

was less crumpled, and life more 

obviously tourism-focused. The yachtfilled 

marina, especially, felt a world 

away from creaky Balenbouche and 

homespun Tet Paul, but it was another 

community enterprise that brought 

us here. Keen to get out on the water, 

I’d found Jus’ Sail, a company offering 

‘ 

HALF THE FUN WE HAD IN ST LUCIA 

WAS DRIVING THE TWISTY ROADS 

AND WAVING BACK AT GRANNIES 

LEANING GOSSIP-READY ON THEIR 

VERANDAH RAILS 

’ 

day charters on the restored Great 

Expectation, a historic Carriacou trading 

sloop; owners James and Pepsi also run 

a training scheme for local youngsters 

to help them out of unemployment. 

As a means of wrapping some 

heritage and social responsibility up 

in a rather lovely, lazy afternoon, their 

sunset cruise was hard to argue with. 

James, Pepsi and a scheme graduate, 

OB, chatted sailing, history and potent 

punches as we tacked across the bay, 

the boat tilting 45 degrees one way 

then 45 degrees the other. Pepsi said 

that out here they were often treated 

to a green flash, that optical effect as 

the sun finally slips over the horizon. 

That day, moody tufts of cloud framed 

the sinking sun — and hooray, a pop 

of green like a magician’s flourish. 

It was wonderfully relaxing; of course 

it was. But quite honestly, half the 

fun we had in St Lucia was driving its 

twisty roads, waving back at grannies 

leaning gossip-ready on their verandah 

rails. We’d crank up the country and 

western on the radio (St Lucians love 

it), stop at random roadside joints, and 

follow our noses down little tracks to 

Piaye and other empty beaches. We 

even found we’d grown fond of (or 

used to) Balenbouche’s eccentricities. 

We assumed the teeny tree frogs in 

the sink and the doorstop-like toad 

in the corridor were doing their bit 

to keep mozzie populations down. 

We supplemented our supermarket 

breakfast with mangoes collected from 

the lawn. We felt more immersed in 

the island’s nature than we would 

have in a pest-controlled, manicured 

resort. So maybe we could do without 

windows after all. No pane, no gain? 



Credit: Liz Edwards/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing 


ST LUCIA 

Opposite: taking a 

break, St Lucia style 

This page: a starfish 

lazes on Reduit Beach 


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activities on offer, such as watching a 

falcon and saluki take part in a thrilling 

faux hunt across the dunes. 


WEEKENDS 

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Choose from the Wow Suite 

or E Wow Suite featuring a DJ 

booth, cocktail bar, Jacuzzi, 

huge living spaces and, of 

course, panoramic floor to 

ceiling city vistas. 

City snapshot 

Keen photographers and 

guests of Four Seasons 

Hotel Amman can 

explore the city behind 

the lens in the company 

of former official palace 

photographer Zohrab 

Markarian. Join him for 

a tour of top landmarks 

including the Citadel, Old 

Souk, and 2,000-year-old 

Roman amphitheatre. He'll 

share his photography 

tips, and plenty of local 

insight, over a cup of 

Jordanian tea. 

Al Balad Theatre/ 

Raed Asfour 

Corner Suite, W Amman 

Street art scene 

Cultural graffiti art is popping up across the city, 

with blank canvas walls permanently transformed 

into vibrant artworks thanks to the annual Baladk 

Street & Urban Art Festival, which has been 

beautifying local communities since 2013. Check 

out talented local Jordanian artists and international 

guest graffitists as you wander through the capital’s 

neighbourhoods. al-balad.org 

Cook like granny 

Learn how to whip up a feast of 

Middle Eastern dishes, from falafel 

and kousa to mandi and more, at 

Beit Sitti cooking school in Jabal al 

Weibdeh, one of Amman’s oldest 

neighbourhoods. Established 

by three sisters to honour their 

grandmother’s culinary legacy, sign 

up for a cook and dine session with 

a four-course menu using seasonal 

vegetables and locally sourced 

produce. Be sure to pick up some 

pomegranate molasses and olive oil 

at the shop. beitsitti.com 


Running until 8 June 2019

long 

the 

weekend 

Paris 

Home to café-lined boulevards, 

vibrant culture and fabulous food, the 

City of Lights is in a league of its own 


THE LONG WEEKEND 

Long considered the epicentre of fashion, art, culture, 

gastronomy and romance, the French capital needs no 

introduction. From elegant boulevards and world-class 

museums to Michelin-starred cuisine and effortlessly 

chic locals, the city has an undeniable je ne sais quoi that 

beguiles even the most seasoned visitor. 

Split by the Seine into two halves – the Right and Left 

banks – Paris is further divided into 20 Arrondissements 

(districts), each with their own style and atmosphere. 

On the Right Bank, the upmarket 1st Arrondissement is 

home to iconic sights such as the Louvre and 17th-century 

Tuileries Garden, while the Champs-Elysées is the heart of 

the exclusive 8th Arrondissement. Spread across the 3rd 

and 4th Arrondissements, the Marais is one of the trendiest 

neighbourhoods in town. 

On the Left Bank lies the elegant 6th and 7th 

Arrondissements, where you’ll find historic pavement cafés 

and big-hitters like Musée d’Orsay, Musée Rodin and the 

Eiffel Tower. The 5th Arrondissement, meanwhile, is home 

to the Latin Quarter and the famous Sorbonne University. 

And as the city celebrates the 130th anniversary of the 

Eiffel Tower and 350 years of the Paris Opera in 2019, 

there’s never been a better time to visit. Here’s how to do 

Paris in style… 

Paris is home to nearly 

a dozen ‘palace hotels’ – 

ultra high-end properties 

whose amenities surpass 

those of five-star hotels 

– including the Ritz Paris 

and the Peninsula Paris. 

The former is home to 142 

rooms resplendent with 

Louis XV furnishings and 

marble fireplaces, along 

with two Michelin-starred 

restaurants and the world's 

first Chanel spa. The latter, 

meanwhile, is just steps 

from the Champs Elysées 

with 200 sumptuous 

rooms and some of the 

best views in town from 

the top-floor restaurant. 

Hoping to join the 

elite club is the newly 

renovated Hotel Lutetia. 

the only grande dame 

on the Left Bank. The 

historic hotel features 184 

contemporary rooms, 

along with a subterranean 

spa, sun-lit swimming pool 

and brasserie overseen by 

three-Michelin-star chef 

Gérald Passedat. 

A perennial favourite of 

ours is Le Royal Monceau, 

Raffles Paris, which boasts 

stunning suites designed 

by Philippe Starck. 

Opposite: Eiffel Tower 

© Paris Tourist Office. 

This page top to bottom: 

Cafe culture © Paris Tourist 

Office; Hotel Lutetia 

STYLISH SLEEPS 

Find the perfect place to sleep 

in the French capital 

For those who crave a 

more intimate experience, 

Maison Armance 

recently opened in the 1st 

Arrondissement, feels like 

your own Parisian piedà-terre. 

There are just 20 

rooms with parquet floors 

and soothing shades of 

dusty pink or duck egg 

blue, while the top-floor 

lounge has dreamy views 

over the city’s rooftops. 

Moored on the Left 

Bank of the Seine, OFF 

Paris Seine is Paris's first 

boat hotel and a favourite 

with Instagrammers, 

thanks to its plunge pool 

(complete with inflatable 

gold swans). It is home to 

58 sleek rooms, but the 

buzzy poolside lounge-bar 

is the draw. 

best 

bistros 

Eat like a Parisian in a cosy 

neighbourhood bistro 

ASTAIR Opened last 

year in the Passage des 

Panoramas, this glamorous 

yet unpretentious spot 

– think rattan chairs, bowtied 

waiters and a smooth 

jazz soundtrack – boasts 

a menu by three-star chef 

Gilles Goujon. Aim for a 

cosy corner table. 

BENOIT Dating back to 

1912, this one-Michelinstarred 

spot looks 

like the quintessential 

Parisian bistro: crisp 

white tablecloths, red 

velvet chairs and polished 

woodwork. Enjoy classic 

French fare such as 

escargots swimming in 

garlic butter. 

MENSAE This modern 

bistro in the Belleville 

neighbourhood favours 

Scandi style over redchecked 

tablecloths, 

while Korean chef Jun-sik 

Cho’s menu is full of 

twists-on-classics. The 

prix fixé menus offer 

exceptional value. 


culture 

f ix 

Home to some 150 

museums, Paris is one 

of the undisputed arts 

capitals of the world. 

Of course you have to 

visit the Louvre; 15,000 

people file past the 

Mona Lisa every day, but 

you can beat the crowds 

by visiting during the 

late-night openings 

on Wednesdays and 

Fridays. Housing the 

largest collection of 

impressionist art in 

the world, the Musée 

d’Orsay is another 

must-see, while you can 

get your modern and 

contemporary art fix at 

the Centre Pompidou. 

Make time for smaller 

museums and galleries, 

such as the Jean Nouveldesigned 

Institut du 

Monde Arabe, which 

showcases treasures 

from the Arab world, 

and L’Atelier des 

Lumières, which features 

a new immersive 

digital exhibition on 

Vincent van Gogh. 

The Fondation Louis 

Vuitton, meanwhile, 

is currently exhibiting 

110 Impressionist 

masterpieces from 

the collection of English 

industrialist Samuel 

Courtauld (until June 17). 

HAUTE CUISINE 

L'Astrance Book well ahead 

for a table at chef Pascal 

Barbot’s two-Michelinstarred 

spot in the 16th 

Arrondissement, which 

seats just 25 diners. Then 

look forward to a tasting 

menu that combines 

modern French cuisine with 

influences from the Far East. 

astrancerestaurant.com 

Ducasse sur Seine One of 

France’s most iconic chefs has 

opened his latest restaurant 

on a sleek riverboat. Opt 

for lunch to see the sights, 

or float by night to see the 

lights, while you dine on 

classic dishes such as chilled 

lobster and pan-seared lamb. 

ducasse-seine.com 

Arpège Alain Passard has 

retained his three Michelin 

stars at this restaurant 

near the Musée Rodin for 

more than two decades. 

His vegetable-driven menu 

features produce from his 

own organic garden, with 

dishes like vegetable arlequin 

jardinière with argan oil 

semolina. alain-passard.com 

elegant 

arcades 

At the turn of the 19th 

century, Paris was 

home to more than 

200 passages couverts 

(covered arcades) 

lined with fashionable 

shops and cafés. Today 

around 20 remain, 

with many found in the 

2nd Arrondissement. 

Passage des 

Panoramas, off 

Boulevard Montmartre, 

should be your first 

stop. Home to philately 

shops and vintage 

postcard dealers, the 

city’s oldest arcade has 

been revitalised with the 

This page from 

top to bottom: 

Arpège; Galerie 

Véro-Dodat © 

Paris Tourist 

Office; Musée du 

Louvre © Paris 

Tourist Office. 

Opposite, 

from top: a flea 

market; Gang of 

Earlybirds 

opening of Astair [see Best 

Bistros]. Cross the road to 

Passage Jouffroy, where 

sunlight streams through 

the glass roof, and treat 

yourself to coffee and cake 

at Le Valentin. Continue on 

to the exquisitely restored 

Galerie Vivienne to admire 

the mosaic floor and browse 

high-end boutiques such 

as Jean-Paul Gaultier and 

Nathalie Garçon. Pop into 

nearby Galerie Colbert to 

marvel at its beautiful glass 

dome, then finish up in 

Galerie Véro-Dodat, which 

boasts a black-and-white 

tiled floor and Christian 

Louboutin boutique. 


THE LONG WEEKEND 

Words: Lara Brunt 

ask a local 

Lena 

Drevermann, 

blogger at 

Salut from Paris 

(salutfromparis. 

com), shares 

her top tips 

for exploring 

the city 

“The first piece of advice I'd give to 

visitors is to walk as much as you 

can (and wear trainers). The Metro 

is a great way to get around, but 

real Parisian life happens above 

ground. From stunning 19th-century 

Haussmann architecture and iconic 

sidewalk cafés to the latest street 

style – to discover the best of Paris, 

simply walk. 

The Belleville neighbourhood, 

meanwhile, is my favourite hidden 

gem in the city. The northeastern 

district is often overlooked, but 

can definitely compete with the 

famous Montmartre; the views over 

Paris are equally wonderful and the 

village style is super cute – without 

the crowds. For a memorable meal, 

book a table at Afaria, a Basque 

Country-influenced restaurant in 

the 15th Arrondissement. The tapas 

are excellent, but don’t miss their 

signature Magret de canard rôti.” 

STYLISH 

SHOPPING 

Nous Founded in 2018 

by ex-Colette employees, 

this achingly cool 

boutique on posh Rue 

Cambon specialises in 

streetwear, exclusive 

watches and high-tech 

gadgets. You can also 

stock up on limited 

edition Adidas trainers. 

nous.paris 

L’Appartement Sézane 

For effortless French-girl 

style without breaking 

the bank, head to this 

millennial pink-hued 

showroom in the chic 

Grands Boulevards 

district. The cult fashion 

label is renowned for 

its laidback, feminine 

aesthetic – think boho 

dresses, silk shirts and 

rope-soled espadrilles. 

sezane.com 

Printemps This iconic 

department store on 

Boulevard Haussmann 

is the go-to place for 

luxury fashion, Swing 

by La Scent Room for 

exclusive perfumes, and 

MARVELLOUS 

MARKETS 

Trawling for treasures or stocking up on gourmet 

goodies in one of Paris’s many markets is a great 

way to spend a couple of hours. Founded in 1870, 

Marché aux Puces St-Ouen is the largest of the 

city’s famed flea markets. Open from Saturday to 

Monday, the sprawling market is a must-visit for 

art and design lovers, with more than 2,000 stalls 

selling antiques, mid-century furniture, paintings 

and bric-a-brac. Foodies, meanwhile, should 

make a beeline for Marché Bastille. Open from 

Thursday to Sunday, there are more than 150 

stalls piled high with local produce and seasonal 

specialities like truffles. For a quick lunch in 

between boutique hopping in the Marais, pop into 

Marché des Enfants Rouges (closed Mondays). 

Opened in 1615, the covered market has stalls 

serving multi-cuisine, ready-to-eat dishes. 

don’t miss the new 

food hall dedicated to 

French gastronomy. 

printempsfrance.com 

Gang of Earlybirds 

Founded by a former 

buyer at Lanvin, this hip 

boutique in the Marais 

stocks the best up-andcoming 

international 

designers such as 

Mara Hoffman and 

Simon Miller. The store 

features a carefully 

curated selection of 

women’s ready-towear, 

accessories 

and jewellery. 

gangofearlybirds.com 

Merci In the same 

neighbourhood, this 

sprawling three-level 

concept store is 

housed in a former 

factory and boasts 

an eclectic edit of 

homewares, men’s 

and women’s fashion, 

beauty products, 

stationery and more. 

Just look for the 

Insta-famous red 

Fiat parked out front. 

merci-merci.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI 

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI... 

Artistic inspiration 

Explore the UAE capital's eclectic arts scene, from contemporary gallery 

showcases to cultural pop-ups, and snapshots of history with a global perspective 

Photo: Project Warehouse by Festember 

1 

Project Warehouse. Yas 

Island welcomes back 

the popular Festember 

pop-up event with a vibrant 

celebration of contemporary 

culture covering art, cuisine, 

fashion and design, from 

15-18 May. Art themes for 

2019 range from female 

empowerment to rural 

Emirati populations with 

local and international artists 

taking part in the four-day 

event. Los Angeles-based 

artist Oliver Coreaux is flying 

in to handpaint a collection 

of luxury handbags and 

accessories with a visual 

collage comprised of text 

and symbols. 

2 

Louvre Abu Dhabi. 

The museum's first 

photography exhibition 

explores the development 

of this fascinating art form 

from its earliest beginnings. 

Entitled 'Photographs 1842 – 

1896: An Early Album of the 

World', the exhibition features 

250 images from across 

the globe including Saudi 

Arabia, Egypt, India and the 

Philippines. The works on 

show mainly originate from 

Musée du Quai Branly – 

Jacques Chirac’s collection, 

which includes some of 

the earliest photographs 

produced outside of Europe. 

3 

Warehouse421. A hub 

for regional talent, this 

Mina Zayed located 

gallery is showcasing six 

forms of writing as part 

of its Nomadic Traces: 

Journeys of Arabian Scripts 

exhibition. Works by nine 

GCC and Levantine artists 

are on show, including 'Yad' 

by Margherita Abi Hanna, 

which draws on the abstract, 

simple geometry of ancient 

Phoenician text to Khalid 

Mezaina's 'If Speech Is Silver' 

piece, featuring a trio of 

Musnad and Aramaic printed 

textiles with silver as the 

starting inspiration. 


worldtravellermagazine.com 

Your passport to the Middle East's first fully 

bookable travel inspiration website 

Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine 

by heading online to read more inspirational and 

exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute 

hotel and holiday features 

Dream Read Click Book

WORLD TRAVELLER X SONEVA 

Slide into 

paradise 

Jet off on an exclusive Eid Al- 

Fitr escape to Soneva Fushi and 

Soneva Jani in Maldives, where 

guests from the Gulf are in for 

a special treat 

Soneva Jani 

*Terms and conditions apply. 

BEST FOR FAMILIES: 

SONEVA FUSHI 

Embrace castaway style simplicity and 

kick off your shoes for an exquisite 

barefoot luxury experience at this 

tropical hideaway that sits jungle 

style within the Baa Atoll UNESCO 

Biosphere Reserve. Just 30-40 minutes 

via seaplane from the international 

airport, Soneva Fushi appeals to the 

whole family with its stellar line-up of 

activities, from manta ray snorkelling 

trips to dolphin cruises. There’s a full 

gamut of dining experiences to enjoy, 

from a meal prepared by a visiting 

Michelin-starred chef to a favourful 

Arabic spread enjoyed in the privacy of 

your villa. 

Soneva Children’s Camp is sure to 

entice little ones out of their shell 

by offering them the chance to try 

something new, from nighttime 

island safaris to coconut oil making, 

glassblowing and much more. Younger 

ones will adore the Den, where they 

can launch themselves into the weekly 

programme of activities designed to 

inspire the mind. 

BEST FOR GOURMANDS: 

SONEVA JANI 

Home of the famous over-water villas 

with water slides (you must have seen 

the incredible drone footage), Soneva 

Jani in the Noonu Atoll is a 45-minute 

seaplane flight from Malé International 

Airport, or a 60-minute speedboat ride 

from Soneva Fushi. 

This playful resort is an 

Instagrammers dream due to the 

sparkling sapphire-hued lagoon that 

surrounds it, and the view just got even 

more tantalising thanks to the variety 

of cuisines that are being served during 

Eid Al-Fitr. 

Soneva Fushi 

Sample Middle Eastern favourites, 

delve into Japanese flavours, or taste 

crab cooked to perfection at new 

restaurant, The Crab Shack, which has a 

dreamily romantic setting on the beach. 

Appetite satisfied, you’re free to take 

part in the many experiences on offer, 

from snorkelling with manta rays to an 

Ayurvedic treatments at the overwater 

Soneva Spa while the kids get busy at the 

Den and Soneva Children’s Camp. 

GCC residents can stay for seven nights 

and pay for just five (or four and pay for 

three), with lots of added extras included*. 

To find out more, visit soneva.com 


WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI 

STAYCATION 

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi 

Enjoy an exquisite stay at the Iconic Nation Towers in the heart of the Abu Dhabi Corniche 

THE ROOMS & SUITES 

A room with a breathtaking view is the 

hallmark of this landmark Corniche 

facing hotel, where each of its 283 rooms 

and signature suites drink in the iconic 

city skyline. Watch the sun rise and set 

from the signature Manhal Suite, or any 

one of the rooms with a view. A dedicated, 

on-call butler and stand-out design 

touches, such as standalone bath tubs, 

further elevate the experience. 

THE FOOD 

Ramadan flavours headline the culinary 

offering in May, with the world's highest 

suspended suite the setting for Iftar in 

the Sky, offering a selection of traditional 

Arabian delicacies, a dedicated dessert 

room and inspiring live music. In 

addition, the Terrace on the Corniche will 

take you on a voyage of discovery across 

the region, with live cooking stations and 

traditional flavours. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

Find inner peace in the sanctuary of 

Remède Spa, with top to toe treatments 

for sublime rejuvenation. Try a bespoke 

facial in the expert hands of a Balinese 

trained therapist, or enjoy a signature 

customised massage featuring a choice 

of exquisite aromatherapy blends and 

luxurious products that guarantee a 

restorative all-over glow. You'll leave ready 

to face the world with renewed zeal. 

To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or visit stregisabudhabi.com 


An Exquisite Eid Al-Fitr Staycation 

Celebrate Eid al-Fitr with a family staycation to create lasting memories. Live exquisite in one of our 

Superior Rooms or for the ultimate level of luxury upgrade to a Signature Suite. Located at the vibrant 

heart of Abu Dhabi with a 200 metre stretch of pristine beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the 

Nation Riviera Beach Club at the finest address in the city. 

Superior Room from AED 650* includes: 

Complimentary upgrade to Sea View Room (subject to availability), AED 200 restaurant dining credit, 

breakfast and 4:00 pm late checkout. 

Signature Suites from AED 1200* includes: 

AED 400 restaurant dining credit, breakfast and 4:00 pm late checkout. 

Book one room and save 50% on the second room. 

Perfect for families, connecting rooms available (subject to availability) 

*All prices are in UAE Dirham and are exclusive of all applicable service charges, local fees and taxes. 

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi 

Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com 

©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates. 

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. 

@stregishotels

WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai 

Rise to the top at the world's tallest five-star hotel 

ROOMS & SUITES 

This lofty hotel has ample space to 

welcome guests. Its 1,608 guestrooms 

and suites have luxurious finishings 

– think marble bathrooms with rain 

showers and oversized tubs – and 

views of the glittering skyline or Dubai 

Water Canal. Families can book a suite 

and spread out in two separate living 

and sleeping areas. Room service is 

available around the clock. 

THE FOOD 

There are 15 award-winning restaurants 

and bars here, each serving memorable 

dining experiences including steakhouse 

Prime68, and Japanese restaurant 

Izakaya. The latest addition, Masala 

Library by Jiggs Kalra, will bowl you over 

with dishes derived from ancient and 

modern recipes and from every region 

of India. We heartily recommend you 

indulge in the great value tasting menu. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

The hotel is close to many top 

attractions, but there are lots of perks 

that'll tempt you to linger for longer at 

the property. Take a dip in the sparkling 

outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot 

of pampering, head to Saray Spa, which 

is home to the UAE's only Dead Sea 

floatation pool. Try the Saray Golden 

Hammam, which includes a decadent 

skin massage using 24-karat gold. 

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 


Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, 

is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for 

a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, 

over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, 

a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, 

as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

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On the website you can also sign up to the dnata 

newsletter and receive more offers direct to your 

inbox. T&Cs apply. 


Book at dnatatravel.com 

call 800 DNATA (36282) or 

speak to us in-store 

Download our app 

| Follow us on 

Holidays starting from US$1425.00 

Year round savings available, check 

with us.

THROUGH 

THE LENS 

Galata neighbourhood 

in Istanbul, Turkey 

"To me, Istanbul is one of the 

most beautiful cities in the 

world; there's always something 

interesting going on around you 

wherever you are. Even if you're 

visiting the same place twice, 

every time it'll look different 

than the day before. I was in 

a meeting when I witnessed 

this view and I couldn't resist; 

I stood up in the middle of 

the conversation to capture 

its enrapturing beauty. The 

originality of the photo is what 

makes it so special to me. Being 

such a magical city, Istanbul 

is filled with photographers in 

every nook and corner; finding 

a different angle to capture is 

always the most fulfilling." 

Lifestyle photographer, 

Zeyad Abouzeid, loves to 

travel because "travelling is 

not just about exploring new 

places around you, but also 

ones inside you." 

@zeyadabouzeid 

EMAIL US YOUR BEST 

TRAVEL PHOTOS 

in high-res jpeg format, along 

with the stories behind them to 

habiba@hotmediapublishing. 

com and you may end up 

being featured 

on this page 


Now win! 

DIGITAL 

BE OUR TRAVEL 

COMPANION 

Stay up-to-date with all that’s 

happening on our social channels 

and join in the conversation by 

sharing your experiences. Here’s 

where you can find us… 

@dnataworldtraveller 

Double tap our dreamy 

destination shots and tag 

us in your images for a chance to 

feature on our wall. 

@worldtravellermagazine 

Stay up to date with travel 

stories as we post them. 

@WT_Magazine 

Make the most of your 

280-character allowance 

by sharing your best travel 

moments with us. 

#dnataworldtraveller 

A two-night stay at Jumeirah Al 

Wathba Desert Resort & Spa 

Immerse yourself in Emirati tradition in Abu Dhabi’s desert 

hinterland at this sprawling 22,000sqm resort. Quintessential 

Jumeirah luxury is woven into a desert village aesthetic that 

exudes oasis vibes, from its 103 stone-walled rooms and villas 

to its destination spa, desert camp dining and backdrop of 

towering sand dunes. To find out more and to enter, visit 

worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply). 

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 

Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, 

inspire your next trip… 

1The Knowledge. 

Read our handy 

how-tos, from 

getting to grips with 

travel insurance to 

helping kids beat jet 

lag, and more. 

2Staycations. 

Take a peek 

inside these top 

hotels and resorts on 

your doorstep and 

then book your next 

mini break! 

3Insider Guides. 

Check out our 

in-the-know 

travel edits of some 

of the most popular 

holiday destinations 

on our radar. 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Suite dreams 

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a 

suite that has a character and style all of its own 

Diamond Suite 

Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo 

Swing open the shutters of this sparkling suite 

and drink in the views of Monaco's glamorous 

port and the rock. It's one of 12 Pierre-Yves 

Rochon designed Diamond Suites at the 

famous Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, which 

was built in the early 1900s, and epitomises the 

carefree elegance of France’s Belle Époque era. 

The 121 square metre abode can accommodate 

up to five people, with two bedrooms, a separate 

sitting room, and no less than two balconies, so 

everyone can enjoy the stunning vista. It's what 

Monaco dreams are made of. 


A Reflection of True 

Ramadan Hospitality. 

Experience this auspicious occasion at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel 

with three delectable Iftar options from sunset until 8.30pm 

AL FANOUS LOUNGE AT DUBAI BALLROOM 

Iftar buffet, AED 199 per person 

AWARD-WINNING KITCHEN6 

International Iftar buffet, AED 215 per person 

MASALA LIBRARY BY JIGGS KALRA 

Unique Indian Iftar set-menu, from AED 195 per person 

CORPORATE IFTARS 

Available upon request for exclusive hire 

and group inquiries of more than 50 people. 

For bookings below 50 guests, 

call +971.4.414.3000 or 

email jwmmrr@marriott.com 

For Corporate Iftars above 50 guests, 

call +971.4.414.2000 or 

email jwmarquis.dubai@marriott.com 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE 

T + 971 4 414 3000 I jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 

jwmarriottmarquisdubai I jwdubaimarquis 

jwmarriottmarquisdubai I #ramadanwithmarriott

World Traveller May 2019

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