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Smorgasboarder_Edition_45

Jye Gudenswager of Gen 4 Surfboards, Smorgasboarder Podcast, Fight for the Bight, road fuel recipes, surfboards, Fuzzeilear and more

Jye Gudenswager of Gen 4 Surfboards, Smorgasboarder Podcast, Fight for the Bight, road fuel recipes, surfboards, Fuzzeilear and more

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local roadtripping, overseas surf travel, surfboards & more<br />

issue<br />

<strong>45</strong><br />

AUTUMN 19<br />

f r e e<br />

SURF MAG<br />

fourth<br />

generation<br />

Jye Gudenswager of Gen4 Surfboards<br />

on keeping 80 years of Australian surfing<br />

legacy in the family<br />

listen up!<br />

Bigger, longer conversations<br />

and more salty tales online<br />

at smorgasboarder.com.au/<br />

podcast/<br />

#fightforthebight continues...<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout


Surf Shop<br />

G E R R I N G O N G , N S W<br />

Celebrating<br />

40 YEARS<br />

I N - H O U S E<br />

C A F E<br />

c<br />

“Australia’s Largest IndependEnt Surf Shop”<br />

HUNDREDS OF SWIM<br />

+ FASHION BRANDS<br />

1,000+<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

S.U.P<br />

EXPERTS<br />

DEMO<br />

150+B O A R D S


smorgasboarder<br />

torquay paddle-out courtesy of EdSloanePhoto<br />

foreword<br />

Community. Family. Sisterhood, Brotherhood... Many<br />

loaded words are all-too-flippantly bandied about in<br />

conversation about the groups we identify with, but<br />

what does that identification really mean in practice?<br />

As an example, you may hear someone say they<br />

identify as a surfer, part of this ‘surfing family’, but do<br />

they truly feel the others bobbing out back and eyeing<br />

the same incoming waves are their soul-sisters and<br />

brothers and others?<br />

Community suggests a level of mutual care and<br />

respect - at the most basic level, at least a shared<br />

interest or common characteristic - but how often do<br />

people who consider themselves part of communities<br />

contribute positively to build or grow it?<br />

A shining example of the perfect trigger for community<br />

creation is the Fight for the Bight. (For more in-depth<br />

coverage, see our last edition’s 14-page article,<br />

and listen to Jimmy Ellis’ ear-opening interview<br />

with Peter Owen of the Wilderness Society on the<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> Podcast). In protest against the<br />

potential environmental threats facing the southern<br />

Australia coastline and beyond, numerous groups<br />

have launched their own actions, including paddleouts,<br />

protests, social and traditional media and much,<br />

much more.<br />

It’s been absolutely amazing to see individuals and<br />

different organisations spreading the word wherever<br />

and however they can, and simply taking action.<br />

We couldn’t be more proud to watch it happen, and<br />

play our own tiny part from up here in the warm North<br />

ourselves. While we’d like to make a point of thanking<br />

and acknowledging all those we know of that are<br />

currently involved - see page 12 for more - there is still<br />

one more important thing we can do - to simply band<br />

together.<br />

Alone, protests, podcasts and posters can do so much.<br />

But when we start actively engaging in each others’<br />

content, sharing each others’ struggles, and genuinely<br />

supporting each others’ efforts, then it becomes a<br />

real fight, not just a collection of isolated skirmishes.<br />

So, share posts, share podcasts, spread flyers, share<br />

tweets... We’re in this together and this is one time NOT<br />

to keep a secret.<br />

On a smaller, more personal ‘family’ note, we’re super<br />

excited to welcome previous contributor, writer and<br />

photographer Alex Benaud into the <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong><br />

fold! It’s a tiny team here, that hasn’t changed too much<br />

since day one almost 10 years ago - which is why it’s a<br />

really big deal for us, and worth announcing.<br />

We’re so looking forward to Alex’s travels and tales<br />

in the years to come and we hope you’ll enjoy them<br />

too! You can read all about his recent travels, starting<br />

on page 26, and even listen to him on the mic on the<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> Podcast on smorgasboarder.com.au,<br />

iTunes, Spotify and BuzzSprout. Enjoy.<br />

Get involved, get active, get reading, get doing...<br />

Let’s keep it all moving and let’s make it happen!<br />

Cheers!<br />

3


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Photo: Lime Light Creative Studios


ladies first<br />

Kelia Moniz may be one of<br />

the most stylish, beautiful<br />

and elegant female surfers<br />

ever to slide across the<br />

ocean’s surface. Poised<br />

with natural beauty and a<br />

charming charisma, she<br />

is loved and adored by<br />

many around the globe. A<br />

two time world champion<br />

longboarder, she belongs<br />

to one of the most well<br />

respected surf families<br />

in Hawaii. Recently we<br />

caught up with Kelia to<br />

talk about family and<br />

from the beginning of the<br />

conversation it was easy<br />

to understand how much it<br />

meant to her. It was almost<br />

like she was talking about<br />

them for the first time.<br />

words: alex benaud<br />

photo: cait miers<br />

@caitmiersphotography


smorgasboarder<br />

ALEX - So Kelia I wanted to ask you a bit about<br />

your family and what it was like growing up with<br />

four brothers?<br />

KELIA - Having four brothers was one of the<br />

most amazing childhood experiences that anyone<br />

could have. I feel so lucky to have four brothers<br />

especially as we are all really close in regards to<br />

age difference. My mum had my baby brother Seth<br />

when my oldest brother was still only five years old,<br />

so it was hectic having five children all under the<br />

age of six, life was crowded, it was amazing.<br />

My mum homeschooled us so we were always at<br />

home together and when we started surfing our<br />

parents never really had time to teach us. My dad<br />

was working full time and my mum was busy taking<br />

care of the usual motherly duties and we kind of<br />

just taught each other how to surf. It was fun, I just<br />

really loved watching my brothers do what seemed<br />

like they were born to do. I learned so much<br />

from them and was able to get a lot of waves too<br />

(laughs).<br />

ALEX - You have mentioned before your father was<br />

never really someone that pressured you and your<br />

siblings into becoming professional surfers, which<br />

can cause a lot of people to burn out really quickly<br />

and lose complete love for the sport…<br />

KELIA - I think it’s really easy for parents to<br />

obviously have aspirations for their children and<br />

want to see them succeed at a rapid pace, however<br />

I think in your early years it’s important to just be<br />

a kid and learn to love something for yourself and<br />

not because of someone else’s expectations. My<br />

parents were the furtherest thing from being pushy,<br />

which allowed me to learn to love it myself, hate it<br />

a little bit and learn to love it all over again, which I<br />

think can relate to all sorts of journeys in life.<br />

ALEX - At 18 you moved away from home, first to<br />

L.A. and then to Brooklyn, what was it like being<br />

away from Hawaii?<br />

KELIA - Just before moving from L.A. to New<br />

York I was about to move back home to Hawaii<br />

but I ended up meeting my husband and moving<br />

in with him for a few years. I loved it, one of<br />

the most exciting cities in the world and I have<br />

lots of incredible friends living there. It was like<br />

experiencing the best of both worlds, there’s so<br />

much culture, fashion and lots of other amazing<br />

things in New York, but I knew I always had Hawaii<br />

to come back to when I wanted to slow things<br />

down and disconnect.<br />

ALEX - So when you were living in Brooklyn,<br />

Montauk was your local surf spot, a bit different to<br />

the warm waters of Hawaii?<br />

KELIA - Well I never surfed there in the winter,<br />

because I don’t know why I would do that to myself<br />

when I could be in Hawaii (laughs). I surfed in<br />

Montauk mostly during the summer months. It was<br />

unbelievable. The surf culture is really vibrant, there<br />

are lots of fun waves, nothing over the top and it’s<br />

perfect for longboarding.<br />

In this day and age it’s easy for professional<br />

athletes to get caught up in their own success,<br />

abandoning their principals and values that<br />

helped them achieve their dreams… Not Kelia<br />

Moniz. She is the perfect example for younger<br />

generations to follow. Kelia has remained<br />

humble and grounded, not forgetting where she<br />

came from and who helped her get to where she<br />

is today.<br />

7


smorgasboarder<br />

scan this!<br />

to get into listening at smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast/<br />

issue<br />

forty-five<br />

autumn 2 0 1 9<br />

03 foreword<br />

12 controversy - fight for the bight<br />

17 stuff<br />

20 fourth generation - Gen4<br />

26 overseas trips<br />

36 roadtrip 2<br />

55 surfboards<br />

64 grassroots<br />

surf businesses<br />

67 aloha barry<br />

cover photo<br />

Mitch Parkinson by<br />

Simon "Swilly" Williams,<br />

Courtesy of Gen4 Surfboards<br />

WINNER<br />

BEST NON-DAILY<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

QUEENSLAND MULTIMEDIA<br />

AWARDS 2013<br />

FINALIST<br />

BEST NON-DAILY<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

QUEENSLAND MULTIMEDIA<br />

AWARDS 2017<br />

want to get your hands on a copy?<br />

there’s three ways to score yourself a<br />

copy of smorgasboarder.<br />

1) subscribe - the mag is still free - you<br />

just pay for delivery. 4 editions per year -<br />

$25 annual subscription (Aus and NZ)<br />

2) call in to one of the businesses<br />

featured in this mag - they’ll have some<br />

free copies. If they're not, they won't.<br />

3) download or read it online at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> is published by Huge C Media PTY<br />

LTD ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at<br />

time of going to press. The publication cannot accept<br />

responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or<br />

unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.<br />

The opinions and words of the authors do not<br />

necessarily represent those of the publishers. All rights<br />

reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly<br />

prohibited without prior permission.<br />

listen up!<br />

the<br />

smorgasboarder<br />

podcast:<br />

full-length interviews and<br />

conversations<br />

enjoy an intimate listen-in with<br />

alex and dave, as they have<br />

interesting chats with interesting<br />

people about surfing, surfboard<br />

building and completely unrelated<br />

things.<br />

available on:<br />

iTunes/Apple Podcasts<br />

Spotify<br />

Buzzsprout<br />

(search for smorgasboarder and<br />

remember to hit subscribe)<br />

or listen on our website<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au for<br />

additional links and show notes<br />

10<br />

advertising<br />

tami argaman<br />

tami@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0466 439 330<br />

editorial<br />

alex benaud<br />

alex@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0423 950 235<br />

bald barista<br />

dave swan<br />

dave@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 3<strong>45</strong> 201<br />

new zealand<br />

jiff morris<br />

jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz<br />

0220 943 913<br />

south australia<br />

jimmy ellis<br />

james@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0410 175 552<br />

design<br />

the team at horse & water creative<br />

mark, kate, helen, taylah<br />

mark@horseandwater.com.au<br />

accounts<br />

louise gough<br />

louise@smorgasboarder.com.au


smorgasboarder<br />

#fightforthebight<br />

words: jimmy ellis<br />

oil<br />

&<br />

water<br />

DON’T MIX<br />

The #fightforthebight has continued since our last issue in<br />

December. Surfers, environmentalists, local governments, Aussies,<br />

Kiwis and our readers abroad have continued to talk and share<br />

their opinions on the issues of seismic testing and drilling for oil in<br />

The Great Australian Bight.<br />

12


smorgasboarder<br />

For an in-depth discussion on the Fight, go to<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />

surfer: ben druitt<br />

photo: sam logan<br />

@mindfulocean<br />

13


smorgasboarder<br />

closeup version<br />

of the last image.<br />

photo: sam logan<br />

@mindfulocean<br />

photo: oj annett, drone photography victoria<br />

14<br />

photo: greenpeace au


smorgasboarder<br />

My third and final concern would be a spill. It would<br />

destroy and devastate most of southern Australia,<br />

wiping out industries that sustain families, people’s<br />

recreational and commercial livelihoods.<br />

Fifteen local governments across Victoria and<br />

South Australia have now passed motions which<br />

express majority opposition to oil drilling in the<br />

Great Australian Bight.<br />

Federal member for Mayo Rebekah Sharkie,<br />

Peter Owen WSSA and Bunna Lawrie Mirning<br />

Elder spoke to the media in front of thousands<br />

of surfers who paddled out at Victor Harbour on<br />

March 3rd to signify their opposition to ‘Equinor’s<br />

ocean oil plans.<br />

Australian is warming up its vocal chords and<br />

saying NORWAY X to big oil plans. Even the Earth<br />

Hour main event at the huge WOMADelaide festival<br />

was all about the Fight for the Bight. And funnily<br />

enough on the recent Australian Red Hot Chili<br />

Peppers tour, surfing front man Anthony Kiedis took<br />

to the stage with a self-made #fightforthebight<br />

t-shirt.<br />

Thanks go out to the thousands of surfers who<br />

attended and paddled out across 4 states in protest<br />

against big oil in the Bight in places like Cresent<br />

Head, Yamba, Manly, Alexandra Headlands,<br />

Wollongong, Torquay, Apollo Bay, Warrnambool,<br />

Cape Bridgewater, Victor Harbour, Robe, Cactus<br />

Beach, Mosmon WA, Streaky Bay, Melbourne,<br />

Hobart and Perth.<br />

With Greenpeace and Damian Cole looking for<br />

surfers to join a paddle out for Sydney Harbour and<br />

surrounding beaches, it begs the question, ‘Could<br />

this be you?’ Pay it forward ’Straayans…<br />

People have promoted The Bight’s ecological<br />

significance through hosting films such as<br />

Nevertown and Operation Jeedera. And for that we<br />

give thanks to surfers and community members<br />

of Streaky Bay, Port Lincoln, Sailsbury, Port Fairy,<br />

Portland, Melbourne and Glenelg. Opposition is<br />

also mounting in South Australia’s South East and<br />

Limestone Coast, where a 10-year moratorium for<br />

LNG fracking was introduced in 2018.<br />

I previously asked 3rd generation Streaky Bay<br />

local Josiah Schmucker to chime in on the<br />

#fightforthebight. He was up late typing this the<br />

night before surfing the 30-40 foot Mavericks swell<br />

in November.<br />

“Since the whole oil drilling and risk of a spill<br />

became so prevalent in my neck of the woods, I<br />

have been a lot more interested in the situation, but<br />

I have always been slightly against oil as I believe<br />

there are more efficient - or at least a lot greener -<br />

means of travel.<br />

“Three major points that come to mind when I hear<br />

about drilling for oil in The Bight are firstly: the<br />

risk heavily outweighs the reward. We don’t need<br />

the oil because we should be looking at cleaner,<br />

greener and renewable resources. I recently read in<br />

three different articles that oil is also a constantly<br />

regenerated liquid in the earth so there is no need<br />

for new oil rigs anywhere if we wish to continue<br />

using oil for its different purposes.<br />

“We don’t need the jobs it would provide, no one<br />

in the area is out of work or struggling so there’s<br />

not a need for the extra work. Which also raises<br />

a question for me whether an American, Asian or<br />

English based company is going to employ that<br />

many people from South Australia.<br />

15


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: EdSloanePhoto<br />

“My third and final concern would be a spill.<br />

It would destroy and devastate most of southern<br />

Australia, wiping out industries that sustain<br />

families, people’s recreational and commercial<br />

livelihoods. It would destroy millions of species<br />

of sea life and destroy one of the most beautiful<br />

places I have ever been and am lucky enough to<br />

call home.<br />

photo: EdSloanePhoto<br />

“Thank you sincerely for giving me the opportunity<br />

to share my opinion. I hope people in areas that<br />

this issue doesn’t directly affect can understand<br />

our concern and get behind us on protecting an<br />

amazing part of Australia where we enjoy surfing,<br />

photo: steve ryan<br />

photography<br />

fishing and living.”<br />

The #fightforthebight alliance has grown with<br />

surfers support from around the world. Tens of<br />

thousands of people are signing their name in<br />

opposition to this oil venture. If this issue is news to<br />

you, read the article in issue 44 of <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong>,<br />

sign online at www.fightforthebight.org.au/<br />

statement, and write to your local MP. Australians<br />

have until March 26th to write to NOPSEMA (the<br />

federal decision maker for this industry) to express<br />

their concern. The link can be found on the website<br />

above.<br />

Why risk it. #fightforthebight<br />

16


smorgasboarder<br />

stuff<br />

road trippin'<br />

“sometimes the most scenic<br />

roads in life are the detours<br />

you didn't mean to take.”<br />

The Key to enjoying the sports you love are to:<br />

1. Progress and Improve 2. Engage and Understand,<br />

and 3. Wherever possible, make it your life. Be it Surf,<br />

Snow, Skate or Bike, if you can ever incorporate these<br />

activities into a ‘Roadie’, you will usually have the time<br />

of your life. Be it with your family, friends, you and your<br />

partner, or a combination of all of these … a wagon full<br />

of gear, toys included, and a few essential ‘bits and<br />

pieces’ to make the whole equation work, will make<br />

your trip away, a time to remember.<br />

Here are a few products that NZSHRED stock, that<br />

you might want to throw in the wagon before you<br />

head away:<br />

1: take that smell away<br />

As anyone who’s ever been holed<br />

up in wagon full of folks, post or pre<br />

activity, there is usually a plethora<br />

of smells to entertain the nostrils.<br />

To bring things back to a workable<br />

medium, a Sexwax Airfreshener<br />

hanging from the rear vision mirror can<br />

adequately mask the invasive scent of<br />

snowboard boots or a wet wettie.<br />

2: see where you’re going<br />

There are a lot of good sunnies out there, and Electric<br />

is the newest in the NZShred stables. You just can’t go<br />

past the Wingman or the Knoxville<br />

to shield your eyes from that early<br />

morning or sunset glare.<br />

3: know your gear is all<br />

secure<br />

There is nothing more secure<br />

than that feeling your kit is all<br />

safe and sound. Be it a DAKine<br />

Low Roller bag for snow<br />

or an Ocean & Earth Barry<br />

Basic surf bag for your board -<br />

- be comfortable knowing the bag<br />

around your prized snowboard or<br />

surfboard has it comfortably housed<br />

and protected. It means you’ll enjoy yourself and<br />

know you will be able to do this all again.<br />

4: something, if nothing is happening<br />

In the old days, folks had a<br />

‘pack of cards’, modern days<br />

are ‘an app’ or something of the<br />

like … to be fair, there is nothing<br />

better than a choice book to<br />

read, digest or peruse. A couple<br />

of options to have for flicking<br />

through, are: ‘Cabin Porn’ -<br />

Klein & Leckart, ‘Confessions<br />

of an Eco Warrior’ - Dave<br />

Foreman or ‘Let My People<br />

Go Surfing’ - Yvon Chouinard<br />

NZ Shred<br />

nzshred.co.nz<br />

17


stuff<br />

natural drinking straws<br />

Stroh is a 100% natural drinking straw made from<br />

wheat stalks. These are truly the most sustainable<br />

straws on the market. Not only are they sustainable<br />

but with their natural golden glow, they also make a<br />

gorgeous addition to a drink. Once finished the straws<br />

can be added to the compost, nourishing the land<br />

from which they came. Perfect for progressive ocean<br />

friendly venues.<br />

stroh.com.au<br />

board traction for the 21st century<br />

Looking for a wax free traction solution? Contribute<br />

to a more sustainable planet with RSPro traction<br />

products.<br />

No more mess or missing waves while you’re waxing<br />

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front foot deck grip where a greater level of traction is<br />

required.<br />

rspro.com.au<br />

seagull milk<br />

"Say goodbye to gross slippery<br />

sunscreen!<br />

"Frustrated with using sunscreen<br />

that leaves your hands and body<br />

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or sporting performance? What about<br />

it getting all over the wax before<br />

heading out for a surf?<br />

"Seagull Milk is an innovative<br />

sunscreen that addresses these issues<br />

and doesn't leave an awful, gross<br />

smell. Instead our customers liken it to<br />

a vanilla milkshake!"<br />

Australian owned and made, this<br />

premium Broad Spectrum formulation is<br />

made from 100% Mineral Active Ingredients, completely<br />

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Resistant and free from petroleum based chemicals.<br />

Founder Josh Apitz is currently a 2019 Qld Young<br />

Achiever Award Finalist for Seagull Milk. Support his<br />

and many others passion for cleaner, safer oceans.<br />

Josh donates part proceeds of every tube sold to<br />

Take3forthesea who address plastic pollution in our<br />

waters. www.seagullmilk.com<br />

formatt<br />

Imagine a freestanding surfboard rack that you can<br />

assemble in 30 seconds without tools, screws or a<br />

degree in Engineering. Designed and created in Australia<br />

by craftsman and ocean lover Kyal Demmrich. Minimal<br />

design aesthetic with a smart interlocking assembly<br />

means just about anyone with any board can now have<br />

the perfect rack. So, sort out your garage or keep your<br />

prized possessions safe and accessible.<br />

Check out the range online which includes the Q21 (yep,<br />

holds up to 21 boards) as well as the Q8 (you guessed it,<br />

holds up to 8) coming soon.<br />

formattboardrack.com.au<br />

18


smorgasboarder<br />

stuff<br />

real surf<br />

"Real Surf can be found on the sunny (windy) shores<br />

of Lyall Bay, Wellington. We pride ourselves on being<br />

a core store, run by surfers for surfers. Here you can<br />

find a huge range of quality surfboards, wetsuits and<br />

accessories, along with a full ding repair service and<br />

rentals for those without equipment. We're open 7 days<br />

a week with a friendly and experienced team ready to<br />

help with your next purchase. REAL SURF is NZs #1<br />

Core Surf Store."<br />

realsurf.co.nz<br />

an empty ocean road<br />

Is a definitive history charting the early development of surfing<br />

and surfing culture in the South Island of New Zealand written<br />

by someone who was there, Kaikoura surfer and writer Ian<br />

Surgenor. Engaging, eloquent and a grassroots account,<br />

it’s packed with detail, good yarns, humour and over 250<br />

photographs depicting the people, places and events of those<br />

early years. Thoroughly researched over 20 years, it is a must<br />

for any surfer’s personal library.<br />

Purchase online at:<br />

kaikoura-museum.co.nz/product/an-empty-ocean-road/<br />

coastal sports kaikoura<br />

For that next surf adventure that goes further than your<br />

local coffee shop. The cold water specialists that want to<br />

get you further out there for longer.<br />

Not just your average surf shop, Coastal Sports, NZ.<br />

"We’re more about the journey than the end. Rain, sun or<br />

snow, be ready for what nature wants to throw at you.<br />

Same location for 15 years."<br />

Call on +64 3 319 5028<br />

coastalsports.co.nz<br />

pedal and paddle<br />

Autumn in The Paradise Coast, Whangamata, is the<br />

perfect time to visit. Warm water - deserted beaches -<br />

crisp deep swells and awesome trails to explore.<br />

Truly an amazing place to visit.<br />

Pedal and paddle will send you in the right direction<br />

with the right equipment. Simple fun.<br />

pedalandpaddle.co.nz<br />

19


smorgasboarder<br />

fourth<br />

generation<br />

With over 80 years of Australian surfing legacy<br />

built into his genes, Jye Gudenswager is the<br />

founder of Gen4 Surfboards and has plied his<br />

trade with some of the biggest brands in the<br />

surfboard manufacturing industry of today.<br />

While utilising the highest technology available,<br />

Gen4 aims to offer consumers the possibility to<br />

purchase high quality sleds at a wholesale price.<br />

This new age thinking mixed with Jye’s unique<br />

family history in surfboard design could possibly<br />

see Gen4 change the way we buy our next<br />

surfboard.<br />

The name Gen4 Surfboards originates from Jye<br />

being the fourth generation of his family to be<br />

a pioneer in surfboard design. A tradition that<br />

began with Jye’s great grandfather Frank Adler<br />

who built some of the first plywood surfboards<br />

know as ‘toothpicks’ during the 1940s. Frank was<br />

followed into the surfing world by his son-in-law<br />

Ken who owned a string of well-known surf stores<br />

throughout the East Coast of Australia such as<br />

Adler Surf Centre and Ken Custom Surfboards<br />

before owning San Juan Surfboards in Byron Bay.<br />

Jye’s father is also a four-time Queensland surfing<br />

representative who competed for Snapper Rocks<br />

board riders club throughout the 1980s and ‘90s.<br />

words: alex benaud<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation, listen at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />

20


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: alex benaud<br />

21


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: Simon “Swilly” Williams, courtesy of Gen4 Surfboards<br />

22


smorgasboarder<br />

Being a Snapper Rocks Board Rider since he<br />

can remember, Jye has grown up in such an elite<br />

surfing community with the likes of Joel Parkinson<br />

and Mick Fanning to call on for advice when it<br />

comes to board design.<br />

“Yeah, well I was pretty much born into it, I even<br />

have photos of myself at the age of two going<br />

on surf trips with the team. Growing up with Joel<br />

and Mick being around town has had a massive<br />

influence on me as a shaper, because whenever I<br />

was surfing I was always checking out their gear.<br />

With them being so dialled in with their equipment,<br />

you know it was what worked, so it’s pretty helpful<br />

to have people like them to call on for advice.”<br />

Jye has practised his craft with some of the best in<br />

the business when it comes to surfboard design.<br />

Still only 26, he already has over 10 years of<br />

invaluable experience working with some of the<br />

biggest names in the industry.<br />

“Originally my first job was with Shaping Co. back<br />

in the day when I was 13. I just swept the floors and<br />

cleaned up (laughs). Just before I turned 17 I began<br />

working with JS Industries where I started to FCS<br />

and glass at an outsourcing factory. I then glassed<br />

for SuperBrand Surfboards which was followed<br />

by a move to Sydney where I shaped for Chilli<br />

Surfboards. When I returned to Coolangatta I started<br />

working with Mayhem and Pyzel, with whom I still do<br />

a bit of work to this day, shaping and glassing about<br />

50 surfboards a week for those two.<br />

“It’s been great growing up working with the high<br />

profile names, I have learned so much from those<br />

guys. For instance I remember watching Darryl<br />

Bulger, who is an amazing shaper, when I was 17 or<br />

18. I watched him shaping boards for the JS team<br />

but it’s not until now that I realise how much I have<br />

learnt from people like him.”<br />

Working on his own designs since the age of<br />

14, Jye finally decided to go out on his own and<br />

create Gen4 Surfboards. Jye’s concept at Gen4<br />

is to produce high performance surfboards for<br />

consumers at a fraction of the cost.<br />

“It’s pretty hard to do but we want to steer away<br />

from stores if we can. Basically that way we are<br />

able to sell online for a wholesale price. Just to<br />

make it cheaper for everyone, not having to pay<br />

distributor costs and all the add-ons which don’t<br />

necessarily need to be there.<br />

23


smorgasboarder<br />

“We still use all the same materials as the top guys<br />

like the foam, cloth and the resin is all of the highest<br />

standard available. We don’t really have a massive profit<br />

margin but we figured if we were selling to stores, the<br />

profit margin would stay the same anyway. So that’s<br />

where we want our consumers to look at buying online<br />

by creating a big following through social media so<br />

people see our boards and know they're just as good as<br />

the big names, but with a more affordable price tag.”<br />

With professional surfers such as Mitch Parkinson<br />

and Ellie-Jean Coffey among Jye’s team riders, there’s<br />

not much need for proof that Gen4 are producing<br />

high quality sticks. Jye mainly specialises in high<br />

performance surfboards but also insists that Gen4<br />

caters for every type of surfer.<br />

“We mainly make high-performance surfboards but<br />

we also make fishes and hybrid style boards. Our fish<br />

designs are constructed with the capabilities to surf<br />

like a performance board, because if you’re not a great<br />

surfer, we still want you to be improving instead of<br />

just being stuck in the same spot. It offers the average<br />

surfer an opportunity to progress easily into our more<br />

high-performance models.<br />

“We have the ‘Allstar’, which is our high-performance<br />

for when the waves are pumping. We have the ‘Black<br />

Magic’, which is our all round performance board<br />

which is basically our go to board for the whole team,<br />

it just goes in everything. They all froth off it and it<br />

is probably our most popular model. Another of our<br />

popular models is the ‘Hybrid’, which is a combination<br />

of one of our fish models the ‘Bull’ and the ‘Black<br />

Magic’ model, we just joined them together, which<br />

gives you heaps of foam up the front and the tail of the<br />

‘Black Magic’ so it’s still really responsive. Finally, we<br />

have the ‘Bull’ our fish model, and the ‘Little Secret’<br />

which has a little secret to it (laughs).”<br />

With aspirations to become one of the biggest<br />

surfboard brands in the world, Jye is certainly heading<br />

in the right direction. With over 80 years of family<br />

knowledge behind him mixed with the passion,<br />

determination and love that Jye pours into his<br />

surfboard design, we wouldn't put it past him.<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation, listen at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />

24


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: courtesy of Gen4 Surfboards<br />

25


smorgasboarder<br />

an irish odyssey<br />

dark, cold, grey and perfect.<br />

words and photos: alex benaud<br />

26


smorgasboarder<br />

O.s /<br />

overseas<br />

/ surf /<br />

trips<br />

not a soul in sight as an untouched left hand rolls into bundoran.<br />

27


smorgasboarder<br />

Sometimes a perfect wave can make<br />

you forget a lot of things, like a sharp<br />

reef, cold water and icy offshore winds.<br />

When you think of a surf trip what comes to mind?<br />

Empty, pumping waves, long left or right handers,<br />

warm water and an endless supply of beer to lap<br />

up with your best mates. You certainly don’t think<br />

wind, freezing temperatures, grey skies, 5mm<br />

wetsuits, booties, gloves and a hoodie to match.<br />

I’m talking about the northwestern tip of Ireland,<br />

yes that’s right, the land of leprechauns, four leaf<br />

clovers and Guinness, the place I chose to go on a<br />

surf trip.<br />

On my arrival to Ireland I was typically welcomed<br />

with bleak, cold and bitter weather, a change<br />

from the previous weeks that I’d spent basking<br />

in the Mediterranean sun. But I wasn’t here for<br />

the weather, I was here on a mission, to surf -<br />

something that the Mediterranean couldn’t quite<br />

offer me in the summer months.<br />

I made my way up the dramatic west coastline,<br />

awed by the beauty that was on offer from the<br />

ragged cliff edges to the long golden sand beaches<br />

that were contrasted by the lush, vibrant green<br />

mountains. The ‘image’ of Ireland that I had created<br />

in my head started to change with each passing<br />

kilometre. Finally I arrived at my home for the next<br />

two weeks, Bundoran.<br />

Bundoran, or as it is known in Irish Bun Dobhráin<br />

(which means the foot of the little water), is a small<br />

seaside town located in the northwestern region<br />

of Ireland. With countless reef and beach breaks<br />

in close proximity to be found, I couldn’t wait to<br />

get wet, even if the water temp was a meagre nine<br />

degrees!!!<br />

By the end of my first few days spent in this tiny<br />

seaside town, 20 thousand miles from where I lived,<br />

I could not have felt more at home. The locals were<br />

some of the most friendly I had ever come across<br />

in my time travelling. Not only were they more than<br />

happy to share their waves with blow-ins from the<br />

other side of the world, but they were equally as<br />

friendly out of the water, with plenty of Guinness<br />

drunken post-surf. The waves were consistent and<br />

aplenty, anything from short, hollow A-Frame reef<br />

breaks to long, mellow sand-bottom point rollers.<br />

Spoilt for choice, I surfed for as long as I could and<br />

as much as my body allowed me to stay in the cold<br />

water.<br />

Eventually all good things must come to and end,<br />

even if only temporary, and that was the case with<br />

the waves in Bundoran. They say to always take<br />

the positives from the negatives, so I thought about<br />

how I didn’t have to squeeze back into my soaking,<br />

icey 5mm wetsuit, which made me feel a lot better.<br />

Bundoran is not only home to some of the best<br />

waves in Ireland, but also home to some great<br />

mountains that can be found a short drive away<br />

from the town centre. One that stands out from<br />

the rest of the bunch for it’s interesting shape, is<br />

Benbulbin Mountain, which stands at 526 metres<br />

above sea level. Surrounded by local farms and<br />

flocks of wooly sheep, for what Benbulbin lacks in<br />

height it sure makes up for in sheer steepness. I<br />

completed the circuit in about two and a half hours<br />

however it was a gruelling two and a half hours,<br />

which made it even more satisfying when I returned<br />

to the safety of level ground.<br />

One last pint of Guinness as I watched the sun set<br />

over the Atlantic Ocean for the final time with the<br />

conquered Benbulbin Mountain glistening in all her<br />

beauty behind me, Ireland you had been good to<br />

me, more than good. I said my goodbyes to the<br />

friends I had made during my stay and swore I’d be<br />

back for more.<br />

28


smorgasboarder<br />

this is sort of like that saying ‘only<br />

a surfer knows the feeling’ kind of<br />

moment.<br />

29


smorgasboarder<br />

paradise<br />

It is affordable, it’s so close to Australia and New Zealand, there are<br />

peeling waves and most importantly, it is never crowded. There’s<br />

good reason why so many people are raving about this place.<br />

In Banyuwangi, East Java, there is an idyllic,<br />

secluded, crescent-shaped bay with stunning white<br />

sand surrounded by jungle and mountains. It will<br />

exceed all expectations. Its name is Pulau Merah<br />

or “Red Island” and we assure you, you will never<br />

forget it if you go.<br />

It offers uncrowded waves for beginners as well<br />

as intermediates and advanced surfers. The sandy<br />

bottom of the local break makes it less daunting<br />

for those trying surfing for the first time but rest<br />

assured, more challenging waves are just a little<br />

further along the beach. It really is perfect for<br />

surfers of all skill levels to enjoy together. Plus, the<br />

owners built Red Island Surf Camp on the beach so<br />

you literally have it all right there on your doorstep.<br />

Better still, if you choose to up the ante some more,<br />

the famous Alas Purwo National Park and G-land is<br />

only two hours away. G-Land is of course a serious,<br />

hectic, world class break renowned for its perfectly<br />

formed waves.<br />

Although Red Island is primarily a surf camp, you<br />

don’t need to spend all of your time surfing. You<br />

will have plenty of time to explore the beach, get a<br />

massage, play some volleyball, swim in the pool or<br />

simply relax in a hammock with a good book and<br />

listen to the waves washing on the white sandy<br />

beach.<br />

There is also heaps of others things to do if you<br />

can’t sit still for two seconds like climbing the Ijen<br />

Volcano, turtle sanctuary visits, coffee plantation<br />

tours, river rafting, tubing, fishing and dirt biking<br />

trips. There really is something for everyone,<br />

30


smorgasboarder<br />

O.s /<br />

overseas<br />

/ surf /<br />

trips<br />

whether it be seasoned pros or crew that have<br />

never surfed in their life, solo travellers, couples, a<br />

group of friends or families - all will be made to feel<br />

welcome so they get the most out of their stay.<br />

So, what’s the cost of paradise you might say?<br />

An arm and a leg? Hard to believe packages start<br />

from as little as $150 per person for a 3-night stay.<br />

You can even stay in your own private, traditional,<br />

hand-crafted bamboo and teak Javanese style<br />

bungalow, complete with private bathroom, air<br />

conditioning and fans for as little as $275 twin<br />

share for 3 nights. And that includes 3 meals per<br />

day! The accommodation is stylish and the food is<br />

exceptional.<br />

Check it all out at: redislandtravel.com<br />

31


smorgasboarder<br />

law of the jungle<br />

Mark Riley from Riley balsawood surfboards was<br />

pleasantly surprised when he arrived in Papua<br />

New Guinea late last year. He could not believe<br />

his eyes with the unspoilt natural beauty of this<br />

incredibly pristine country. Keen to surf, he was<br />

also interested to see how SAPNG’s (Surfing<br />

Association of Papua New Guinea) influence<br />

has helped the tourism trade and protected the<br />

environment, whilst giving back to the rightful<br />

owners of the reefs and waves.<br />

Mark has travelled extensively through Mexico,<br />

Central America and South America on and off for<br />

the past 20 years. He was drawn to the Americas<br />

because of the many great surfing spots. He has<br />

been back to South America every year since<br />

1996 and in that time started importing balsawood<br />

from Ecuador until he discovered better quality<br />

balsawood in Papua New Guinea.<br />

In 2012 Mark started importing this magic light<br />

wood into Australia from PNG but was yet to visit<br />

the country. Other than a holiday, he had no need<br />

initially as the Papua New Guineans were a delight<br />

to deal with. He eventually ventured over there in<br />

April 2017 and returned to Australia with a new<br />

found appreciation for the country.<br />

One of his reasons for visiting was to learn more<br />

about their unique surf management plan and the<br />

fact it presented the opportunity to surf uncrowded<br />

waves. The surf management plan has been around<br />

for over 27 years. It is based on a user pays ideal<br />

that has been in place for thousands of years.<br />

No matter whether you are a local to the area or a<br />

Papua New Guinean traveling across the country,<br />

or an overseas tourist, you are obliged to pay some<br />

sort of fee for using some else’s property. If you<br />

wanted to use a creek to wash or visit a waterfall,<br />

the same principles apply – you pay the land<br />

owners to use.<br />

PNG has complex family ownership rights in all<br />

villages… indeed anywhere where there’s land<br />

involved. Some plots of land have been fought<br />

over for thousands of years with multiple families<br />

claiming respective rights. So you can imagine<br />

when foreigners started arriving to surf their waves,<br />

the owners needed to be paid for the privilege.<br />

In the ‘80s Shaun Keane and his brother Nic were<br />

surfing the Northern islands off Kavieng. One of<br />

the villagers paddled out in their dugout canoe and<br />

asked them for a donation for their village. An hour<br />

later another canoe arrived and asked the same,<br />

whether this was the same canoe or another was<br />

never determined. However, what the incident did<br />

provoke was a light bulb moment that there needed<br />

to be a fair and equitable way of rightfully paying<br />

these villagers.<br />

SAPNG was established in 1990 by Andy Able<br />

and Shaun Keene to ensure some system and<br />

rules were put into place to help everyone achieve<br />

an amicable solution to ensure the reefs were<br />

protected and families were compensated.<br />

These days the system is very successful and has<br />

to date achieved its vision. When Mark recently<br />

visited Rubio Surf Camp he saw first-hand how the<br />

management plan is working.<br />

bookings<br />

When you book a surf trip, whether it is through a<br />

travel agent or a surf travel company or direct with<br />

a surf camp, even if you sail into a harbour, daily<br />

fees are required to be paid to the Association.<br />

The fee must be paid prior to arrival with any<br />

SAPNG endorsed surf operator or agent.<br />

If you arrive in Kavieng and are not booked in, you<br />

will need to contact NASA (Niu Ailan Surfriders<br />

Alliance) to check availability. If they are under<br />

their quota you may join the plan and surf in the<br />

permitted area.<br />

32


smorgasboarder<br />

O.s /<br />

overseas<br />

/ surf /<br />

trips<br />

where can you surf?<br />

The plan is divided into many different regions in<br />

PNG.<br />

• Vanimo SMP – Sandaun Province<br />

• Tupira SMP – Madang Province<br />

• Lovangai SMP – New Hanover – New Ireland<br />

Province<br />

• East Coast SMP – New Ireland Province<br />

• Central New Ireland SMP – New Ireland<br />

Province<br />

• Kavieng SMP – New Ireland Province<br />

If you are going to surf in different regions the<br />

necessary fees must be paid to the correct<br />

manager to ensure the money goes to the right<br />

family clan. You can transfer from one region to the<br />

other but you must pay the respective fees to the<br />

corresponding manager.<br />

costs<br />

who benefits from this?<br />

The families that live on and around these reef<br />

areas are the rightful owners. Commonly it is<br />

a woman who is the matriarch that handles all<br />

business transactions. She will have the final say<br />

on how they would like to receive their donation<br />

- it can come as a form of payment in the local<br />

currency or a product or service or even a payment<br />

of an electricity bill that will help the community<br />

with health, education or general living standards.<br />

The payments are made at the end and at the start<br />

of the surf season and will depend on the number<br />

of surfers that have visited the region.<br />

33


smorgasboarder<br />

munich<br />

words and photo: tami argaman<br />

Only a short 8 hour drive from Germany’s North<br />

Sea Beaches and in the centre of Bavarias 900 year<br />

old capital city you can see that true surfers don’t<br />

always need to wait for the perfect wave. In fact<br />

they don’t even need the beach or the ocean, only<br />

courage and (depending on gender and time of the<br />

year), some freeze-proof balls.<br />

“Eisbach” means Ice Creek, and describes what<br />

the wave feels like most of the year.<br />

If you ask people what they think of the popular<br />

spot, opinions vary.<br />

“When you see those skinny men with diving suits<br />

and their BRETTER (boards) on the BAHN (tram),<br />

only MüNCHNER (Munich locals) know where they<br />

are off to!” a fruit and veg stall owner says.<br />

Markus who lives and studies in Munich loves it.<br />

“The Eisbach Wave is awesome in summer, people<br />

take turns and drink beer while lining up. It doesn’t<br />

get dark till 10pm, so it’s always a bit of a party” he<br />

says.<br />

“In winter you need a killer wetsuit and loads of<br />

mulled wine afterwards to drink the pain away.”<br />

The never ending wave is located under a bridge.<br />

Whenever there are surfers, there’s an audience.<br />

Those who watch for a while can judge different<br />

styles and tell who stays on the wave for longer and<br />

who gets thrown off right away.<br />

Unfortunately it was -3 degrees when I last visited<br />

the Eisbach Wave. People still surfed (not me!).<br />

I had just arrived from 35 degrees in SE QLD<br />

without a proper jacket. End of the story: After<br />

10 minutes of watching the Ice Creek Surfers my<br />

survival instinct kicked in and I had to go to the<br />

closest Christmas market to skull 3 hot wines.<br />

“In winter you need a<br />

killer wetsuit and loads of<br />

mulled wine afterwards to<br />

drink the pain away.”<br />

34


smorgasboarder<br />

“You won’t want<br />

to leave our little piece<br />

of paradise”<br />

O.s /<br />

overseas<br />

/ surf /<br />

trips<br />

photo: Raglan Longboards<br />

photo: Stuart MacKenzie at stuartmackenzie.photoshelter.com<br />

photo: Stuart MacKenzie at stuartmackenzie.photoshelter.com<br />

raglan<br />

Raglan Holiday Park Papahua is situated on the<br />

West Coast of New Zealand’s North Island just a<br />

<strong>45</strong>-minute drive west of Hamilton or a two-hour<br />

drive south of Auckland. Whether you’re looking for<br />

world-class surf, scenic walking tracks, the chance<br />

to paddle board or kayak across to the pancake<br />

rocks, a day’s fishing or a round of golf, laidback<br />

Raglan offers the perfect escape from the hustle<br />

and bustle of everyday life.<br />

View their accommodation options at<br />

www.raglanholidaypark.co.nz -<br />

You can book online or email<br />

stay@raglanholidaypark.co.nz<br />

package: Book to stay for more than two nights at<br />

the Raglan Holiday Park between May 1st 2019 and<br />

October 1st 2019 and you will get one night FREE.<br />

(special conditions apply)<br />

35


smorgasboarder<br />

36


smorgasboarder<br />

r o a d t r i p 2<br />

And so it continues, this time through the lens and<br />

words of new smorgasboarder Alex Benaud.<br />

Everyone loves road trips, they’re exciting, unpredictable and offer proof that there still are<br />

places out there that haven’t been blown up by Instagram and Facebook. I recently packed up<br />

the van and travelled from Noosa Heads to Nambucca Heads.<br />

words and photos: alex benaud<br />

norries headland, cabarita<br />

37


main beach, yamba<br />

I surfed this little left hander on the main beach for a couple of<br />

hours with just myself and a local bodysurfer in the lineup.<br />

sunrise over woolgoolga beach


smorgasboarder<br />

With no particular time frame in mind, I<br />

wanted to make sure I made an effort to<br />

visit the ‘smaller’ destinations along the way<br />

With no particular time frame in mind, I wanted to<br />

make sure I made an effort to visit the ‘smaller’<br />

destinations along the way and it blew my mind<br />

how many little nooks and crannies go unnoticed<br />

when traversing this beautiful stretch of bitumen.<br />

In saying that I also managed to score some fun<br />

waves with minimal ‘friends’, spent most days<br />

lazing in the sun with not a soul in sight and<br />

camped to the sound of crickets and cicadas in the<br />

evenings.<br />

Usually when I head south from Noosa I tend to<br />

skip from the Sunshine Coast all the way to Tweed<br />

Heads. Brisbane isn’t quite the ideal place to make<br />

a stop if you’re looking to ‘get away from it all’ and<br />

most times I can’t muster up the surf stoke required<br />

to battle with the crowds of the Gold Coast.<br />

This time however was different as I had a few<br />

interesting interviews to undertake - see one<br />

Rooster and two Jye Gudenswager - both featured<br />

in this edition. Once conducted I was swiftly back<br />

on the road.<br />

Cabarita Beach, located 20 minutes south of<br />

Coolangatta, is a small coastal town with an<br />

estimated population of no more than 150,<br />

probably most recognisable to the surfing world as<br />

being home to one of the greatest aerial surfers on<br />

the planet, Chris ‘Chippa’ Wilson. Caba’s sleepy<br />

atmosphere makes it an ideal destination to stretch<br />

the legs, set up camp and prepare for the road<br />

ahead. I closed out the day with a fun session out<br />

the front surfing 2 foot peaks followed by a well<br />

deserved beer atop Norries Headland on sundown,<br />

it was almost like one of those ‘from where you’d<br />

rather be’ kind of moments.<br />

An early rise followed by the customary coffee at<br />

Coastal Visions Photography Cafe, a small family<br />

owned business that sell some beautiful, locally<br />

snapped photographs, a great way to see Cabarita<br />

in all her beauty. The coffee ain’t too bad either!<br />

Oil topped up, coolant checked and tank filled, it<br />

was time to move on. Destination - anywhere south<br />

of Byron Bay. Now with Ballina seemingly surfed<br />

only by men in grey suits, I decided to skip it all<br />

together, continuing further down until I reached<br />

Yamba.<br />

Driving into Yamba you can already feel the sense<br />

of relaxation taking over, it’s the kind of place where<br />

you would say ‘yep, this is the new home kids’. (I<br />

don’t have kids but I’m just presuming this is what<br />

I would say if I had them). Officially established<br />

as a World Surfing Reserve in 2007 Yamba and<br />

nearby Angourie leaves you spoilt for choice when<br />

deciding where to surf. Surrounded by untouched,<br />

nature filled national parks, bustling marine life and<br />

friendly locals, I couldn’t find a thing I didn’t like<br />

about the place.<br />

‘On the road again’, Yamba had further emphasised<br />

my idea of skipping the ‘big’ destinations on the<br />

map and choosing to turn off at the ones I’d never<br />

thought of visiting. One of those destinations is<br />

Woolgoolga. A short hour and a half dash down the<br />

Pacific Highway from Yamba will bring you to this<br />

little seaside town.<br />

39


smorgasboarder<br />

The area was once very prominent in banana<br />

growing but the steep decline in the face of<br />

competition from overseas and Queensland<br />

during the 1990s has since seen many plantations<br />

replaced with blueberries. Woolgoolga is also<br />

home to one of the largest Sikh populations in<br />

Australia, opening the very first Sikh temple in<br />

the country in 1969. The Indians migrated to<br />

Woolgoolga from Grafton to work on the banana<br />

farms during the Second World War. Anyway, the<br />

next time you visit Woolgoolga you’ll know the<br />

reason behind why there are so many Indians<br />

in such a random little town. For those of you<br />

who love curry, in September Woolgoolga hosts<br />

‘Curryfest’ which celebrates the Sikh community.<br />

Woolgoolga was such a cool little multi-cultural<br />

surf town, I surfed straight out the front of the<br />

surf life saving club, a short, punchy right hander<br />

that produced 2 foot waves which I shared with<br />

a few friendly locals. I slept in a nearby rest area<br />

provided for travellers passing through free of<br />

charge and even managed to squeeze in an early<br />

morning log before continuing my journey south.<br />

My final destination before reaching Nambucca<br />

Heads was Sawtell. One of, if not my favourite<br />

destination of the trip, there was something about<br />

Sawtell that stayed with me, maybe it was the<br />

perfect, offshore, 3 foot groundswell that I scored<br />

on the back beach… Maybe.<br />

Found just a stones throw south of Coffs Harbour,<br />

the modest, laid back little town is the perfect<br />

place to settle down for a few days that may<br />

(could) turn into weeks. The shops, boutiques,<br />

cafés and restaurants are shaded by enormous<br />

fig trees throughout the town, the beaches are as<br />

good as they get and the shape of the headland<br />

means that finding a wave out of the wind is<br />

easier done than said. With an abundance of<br />

creeks and rivers within the vicinity, Sawtell offers<br />

great fishing and the opportunity to practice<br />

other water sports, bush walks are aplenty and I<br />

found it was just a great alternative to the hustle<br />

and bustle of neighbouring Coffs Harbour.<br />

40


smorgasboarder<br />

hayden cervi<br />

at sawtell’s back beach<br />

41


sometimes on the road<br />

you strike it lucky<br />

photo: alex benaud<br />

smorgasboarder<br />

42


smorgasboarder<br />

43


smorgasboarder<br />

44


smorgasboarder<br />

h e r e<br />

c o m e<br />

t h e<br />

r o o s t e r<br />

words: alex benaud<br />

photos: leah light photography<br />

“One thing I do f#king know is I was born just a<br />

hillbilly kid in the hills of Tennessee and got an<br />

opportunity to move to the beach at an early age<br />

and decided from there my life path. Surfing and<br />

making surfboards.”<br />

Gregg Weber from Rooster Brand surfboards has<br />

certainly got some stories to tell, raised in the hills<br />

of Tennessee before moving to the East Coast<br />

where he surfed against CJ and Damien Hobgood<br />

on the NSSA, partied with Jay Adams in Hawaii,<br />

became the team glasser at Lost Surfboards for<br />

over 10 years and learned to screen print from<br />

Dogtown legend Skip Engblom. This is Rooster,<br />

a colourful character who has absorbed it all to<br />

become a talented, passionate and well respected<br />

craftsman with a no bullshit attitude.<br />

<strong>45</strong>


smorgasboarder<br />

Rooster began life in the shaping the bay as a 13<br />

year old grommet with WRV Surfboards who were<br />

at the time the biggest surfboard manufacturer on<br />

the East Coast of the United States.<br />

“I cleaned toilets, swept floors, took out the trash<br />

and rolled cigarettes for the glasser. Slowly I<br />

began to cut the cloth and dress the boards until<br />

eventually learning how to do everything by the age<br />

of 16 when I was sanding at least 10 boards a day.<br />

“After that I moved out to California competing on<br />

the NSSA surfing against guys like Chris Brown and<br />

other big names but then I realised that I probably<br />

wasn’t going to make the cut as a pro surfer.”<br />

Rooster turned his focus to surfboard<br />

manufacturing full time, drawing inspiration from<br />

some of the greats.<br />

“I was working in the big leagues influenced by<br />

people like Jim Fuller; who taught Biolos, Robert<br />

Manville, Tyler Hatzikian (Tyler Surfboards) and Matt<br />

Biolos himself.<br />

“I still talk to Matt all the time. I do a lot of<br />

consulting work for Lost. I was their team glasser<br />

for around 10 years. I have probably done more<br />

world title boards than some people have had<br />

hot dinners. I found a lot of work being not only a<br />

shaper but a glasser as well for all the big labels, all<br />

while pushing my own boards along on the side.”<br />

“When I first starting<br />

making boards I wanted<br />

to learn to do everything.<br />

I didn’t just want to be a<br />

glasser, or a sander or a fin<br />

guy. So I was really drawn<br />

towards guys like Timmy<br />

Patterson who weren’t just<br />

shapers but did the whole<br />

process by themselves.”<br />

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smorgasboarder<br />

With Rooster’s bread and butter being a glasser<br />

for Lost, he decided to move into his own ventures<br />

with the goal of becoming completely self sufficient.<br />

He eventually transferred to Tallebudgera, Gold<br />

Coast which is where he decided to establish<br />

Rooster Brand surfboards.<br />

“When I first starting making boards I wanted to<br />

learn to do everything. I didn’t just want to be a<br />

glasser, or a sander or a fin guy. So I was really<br />

drawn towards guys like Timmy Patterson who<br />

weren’t just shapers but did the whole process by<br />

themselves.”<br />

“I also never wanted to be pigeon holed for only<br />

being a performance board shaper. So I try to cover<br />

a broad spectrum of designs making retro, hybrid<br />

and experimental shapes. My performance boards<br />

are probably my biggest sellers but I am trying to<br />

keep an even balance.”<br />

Not only a surfboard shaper but a craftsman with<br />

many talents, Rooster also produces custom<br />

screen printed tees and skateboard designs.<br />

“Everything I do is 100% hand made at home. I<br />

have a screen printing factory as well. I learned to<br />

screen print from Skip Engblom back during my<br />

days living in Venice, he would just push me into<br />

the deep end with all the gear.”<br />

Mentored by some of the most well-known and<br />

respected figures in surfing’s history, Rooster is a<br />

man who knows what kind of work ethic is required<br />

to create a name for oneself. This quote from the<br />

man himself pretty much sums it up for us.<br />

“I don’t apologise for who I am nor any<br />

repercussions of others actions from<br />

lack of knowledge or respect. I’m not<br />

arrogant by any means, you are only as<br />

good as your last board in this fashion<br />

show. One thing I sure know is, I’m a<br />

father, husband, friend, brother. I AM A<br />

CRAFTSMAN.”<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation listen at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />

47


spiritual being<br />

With the soul of a philosopher, the hands of an artist, the<br />

knowledge of a walking encyclopedia, and the brain of an<br />

inventor and engineer fused into one, Mitchell Rae of<br />

Outer Island Surfboards is a creator of the highest order.<br />

words: dave swan and mark chapman<br />

“One of the things that really attracted me to Buddhism<br />

is that it’s technically speaking, not a religion at all. It’s a<br />

philosophy, a state of mind. It’s a viewpoint of the cosmos.”<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation, listen at smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />

48


A trip down the coast is never complete without a<br />

quick visit to Mitchell Rae’s Outer Island surfboard<br />

factory. We are undeniably slightly obsessed with<br />

his boards but we find Mitchell’s deep sense of<br />

spirituality equally fascinating.<br />

While he wouldn’t take credit for it himself,<br />

spending time with this well-respected shaper and<br />

artist is often like a visit to an enlightened spiritual<br />

figure (clad in boardies instead of a flowing robe, of<br />

course) – you’ll leave feeling like you’ve had some<br />

deep, mystical knowledge opened up to you…<br />

Whether it be technical discussions on surfboard<br />

building and materials, or how to tread lightly<br />

on the earth and stay on the right side of karma,<br />

Mitchell always excels as a guide to a world of<br />

complex concepts.<br />

When we last spoke, our conversation transcended<br />

mere foam and fibreglass to his love for Eastern<br />

philosophy and a recent trip with his partner to<br />

Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam. Mitchell picks up<br />

the story.<br />

“I’ve been interested to go to Burma, Myanmar as<br />

it is known now, for a long, long time. As it happens<br />

we did a week in each country, three weeks in<br />

three countries - the Temple Tour. I was aware<br />

of Buddhism in all three of those countries, but I<br />

hadn’t really examined it closely and so our daily<br />

routine was to hunt out the most relevant, biggest<br />

temples in the area where we were. Once we made<br />

it up into Myanmar, it was fabulous. Like Mandalay,<br />

there’s some incredible ancient Buddha’s there and<br />

it’s my opinion that all these ancient temples are<br />

built on high energy points of the planet in a similar<br />

fashion to the great pyramids, which go way back<br />

into antiquity.”<br />

To explain Mitchell’s views in a little more detail,<br />

Planetary Energetic Grid Theory proposes the earth<br />

is made up of various intersecting points forming a<br />

grid or matrix, equivalent to the acupressure points<br />

on our bodies. These grid points are said to be<br />

found at some of the strongest power places on the<br />

planet.<br />

“It’s been proven by certain scientific thought that<br />

there are energy grids on the planet. There’s ones<br />

that are all locked together at the polls and interact,<br />

there’s an energy field which looks a bit like a<br />

soccer ball, there’s another one which looks more<br />

like the latitude-longitude sort of mapping of the<br />

globe and another, which is more like all triangles,<br />

like a Buckminster Fuller geodesic dome.<br />

“Where these different energy grids intersect,<br />

there’s major power nodes and when you look<br />

at a map of the globe, at every one of those<br />

major power nodes, there’s a great pyramid from<br />

antiquity. So, it leads one to believe that there’s<br />

been a lot more knowledge for a very, very long<br />

time on this planet than what modern history gives<br />

credit for. And we still haven’t unlocked those<br />

mysteries at all.<br />

“On a smaller or on a more local scale, like in<br />

England, there’s been some volumes written<br />

about what they call the ley lines, which are of a<br />

similar nature following the lattice energy grids of<br />

the planet, and a lot of the great cathedrals and<br />

Stonehenge and various places of significance are<br />

located on these energised parts of the planet.<br />

“It’s my feeling that the same applies to all the great<br />

temples of Southeast Asia. By going and paying<br />

homage to these ancient Buddha’s and paying my<br />

respects, I’m also spending a lot of time at a really<br />

high energy zone of the planet, which I feel has<br />

some lasting impact on the molecular resonance<br />

over the human being, of the psyche as well, if you<br />

will.”<br />

Such comments possibly have your mind boggling<br />

and searching Google for topics such as Scared<br />

Geometry and the like, so I asked Mitchell to<br />

explain his line of thinking for the less learned like<br />

myself.<br />

“Well, I tend to think that Einsteinian theory has<br />

proved that we are made of energy. If you look at<br />

the building blocks of the universe, they’ve proved<br />

Einstein’s formulas that in reality, there’s kind of no<br />

such thing as solid matter. They’ve gone down to<br />

the building blocks that make everything - you’ve<br />

got atoms and then you go down to finer particles<br />

like and protons and neutrons and quarks when<br />

they get right down to the smallest particles,<br />

they now see they are in fact energy locked into<br />

a certain pattern. With a big enough microscope,<br />

they’re looking at these tiny particles and there’s<br />

actually no solid substance there, it’s all made of<br />

energy, which is what the great spiritual teachers<br />

have been saying for millennia.<br />

“Once you take that on board - that everything<br />

is made of energy including people and that<br />

energy according to Einstein is never lost, that<br />

it’s transmuted, it’s transformed - that opens up<br />

another whole viewpoint of humanity, people, the<br />

cosmos at large. So, going down that path, by<br />

immersing myself on the Temple Tour, it tends to<br />

really energise your spirit body because you know,<br />

it’s all energy, it’s all related. These are my personal<br />

viewpoints on it anyway.”<br />

Such core beliefs in turn serve to underline<br />

Mitchell’s approach to his handmade surfboards.<br />

“I’m kind of old school. I believe that when you<br />

shape a board by hand and you expose the<br />

surfboard to a lot of personal interaction, like even<br />

sanding them and glassing them by hand, all these<br />

things tend to instil the inanimate object with a<br />

certain amount of lasting energy.<br />

“That’s the difference with the path I’ve chosen<br />

making surfboards. I’ve made a conscious choice<br />

on several occasions to stay small and to make<br />

less boards and put more of myself into each one<br />

and I believe that suits my philosophy. It suits my<br />

viewpoint on life and surfboards.”<br />

49


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smorgasboarder<br />

subtlety of design<br />

words: dave swan<br />

If I was to confess of having a man crush on<br />

anyone, it would most likely be the Phantom - not<br />

the bloke with the purple jumpsuit who goes by<br />

the name of the Ghost Who Walks, I’m talking<br />

about the super-talented Chris Garrett of Chris<br />

Garrett Shapes and Phantom Surfboards. Creative,<br />

humble, insightful, genuine, accommodating – there<br />

is a plethora of superlatives that could be used to<br />

explain the man, friend is another.<br />

I recently caught him prior to heading overseas,<br />

and as we only had a few minutes, I had one<br />

question to ask of him. As simple as the question<br />

may have seemed on the surface, it was almost<br />

too difficult to put into words. I was seeking to<br />

understand the subtlety of design that sets his<br />

surfboards apart from so many others. His boards<br />

are almost indescribable until you see them in the<br />

flesh, or foam and fibreglass I should say. It is then<br />

on close inspection, you begin to see the “subtlety<br />

of design” that makes them such things of beauty,<br />

works of art. As eloquent as always, Chris had<br />

these few words to say.<br />

“You are too kind. I am just blessed to do what I do.<br />

Surfboard building is such a noble art.<br />

“I get a lot of satisfaction out of making and<br />

creating stuff. There is something about creating<br />

things out of foam and watching shapes evolve.<br />

It is addictive. I need it in my life. From a health<br />

perspective, it is possibly one of the most toxic<br />

things you can do. I shouldn’t be doing it. From a<br />

creative outlet point of view, I have to do it.”<br />

That’s Chris to a tee. He’s compelled to be an artist.<br />

“Commercially speaking my time could be<br />

better spent doing other things but I love making<br />

surfboards and when you enjoy something so<br />

much, you want to do more and more of it and I<br />

suppose that passion hopefully comes out in what<br />

I make. For nearly 40 years I’ve been fortunate<br />

enough to follow my heart and do what I like.<br />

Creating boards that match surfers to waves and<br />

making their dreams a reality, is a part of the stoke<br />

that drives my passion.<br />

“What’s most important to me is seeing or hearing<br />

of my clients enjoying themselves on my boards.<br />

That’s what I get a kick out of. That’s what I get<br />

out of the whole process. I like a close association<br />

with my clients, working on their boards, because<br />

I never had that close association when I was<br />

younger before I started shaping my own boards.<br />

I experienced that disconnect between what you<br />

want and what you get – that only comes with<br />

personal interaction.<br />

“Surfing to me is about that connection, it’s about<br />

community, it’s about friendship, purpose and<br />

enjoyment. That’s why I reckon I have one of<br />

the best jobs on the planet. It gives me a lot of<br />

fulfilment and enjoyment.”<br />

And that right there is one of the keys to great<br />

design. I recently read an article in Medium entitled<br />

The Subtle Art that Differentiates Good Designers<br />

from Great Designers and it reiterated this very<br />

point: ‘great designers think about the user, all<br />

the time. Like any other art, you don’t design<br />

something because it’s required. You design<br />

something because it fulfills the gap between needs<br />

and requirement.’<br />

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smorgasboarder<br />

road fuel<br />

3 quick, easy and<br />

healthy meals to cook<br />

whilst on the road<br />

When I pack for a road trip there’s one thing I<br />

don’t travel without, my portable cooking stove.<br />

Life on the road can be more expensive than<br />

you think, with small costs adding up to large<br />

sums. One of the ways I like to cut down on my<br />

costs is by cooking almost all of my meals on<br />

my little gas cooking stove. It’s not only cost<br />

effective but also offers you the opportunity to<br />

have complete control over what goes into your<br />

body, making you less susceptible to getting<br />

sick (nothing worse on a roady, trust me).<br />

So here are three of my favourite meals to<br />

prepare while on the road, they’re quick, easy<br />

and most importantly, healthy.<br />

coconut pancakes<br />

ingredients<br />

1 cup of tapioca flour<br />

1/4 cup of coconut flour<br />

1 tin of coconut milk<br />

6 eggs<br />

1/3 cup of olive oil (not butter, it burns)<br />

1 tablespoon of salt<br />

Simply mix all ingredients in a bowl to form a batter<br />

and cook over a medium heated pan. Now you’re<br />

thinking pancakes can’t be too healthy, but these<br />

ones are completely gluten free and have absolutely<br />

no added sugar. I generally top them with maple<br />

syrup and smashed macadamia nuts.<br />

Note - If you’re not a sweet tooth like me, these<br />

pancakes can be filled with shredded chicken, ham<br />

and or bacon to offer a tasty and savoury alternative.<br />

makes 6 large pancakes<br />

falafel wraps<br />

ingredients<br />

6 falafel rissoles<br />

2 tablespoons of tabouleh<br />

hummus<br />

sweet chilli sauce<br />

2 wraps<br />

zoodles<br />

ingredients<br />

1 punnet of zoodles<br />

8 cherry tomatoes<br />

2 rashes of bacon chopped into cubes<br />

1 spoon of goat’s cheese<br />

1 spoon of parmesan cheese<br />

Heat the falafel rissoles in a pan on medium heat<br />

for 4-5 minutes. Place all ingredients into a wrap<br />

and roll closed. Place closed wrap in the frying pan<br />

to toast for 3 minutes on each side.<br />

The falafel wrap is one of my favourite meals<br />

to cook, all ingredients can be found in any<br />

supermarket. It’s also completely vegetarian.<br />

Note - If you have the time and space on your<br />

hands, buy the falafel mix and make it by hand for a<br />

more authentic taste.<br />

serves 2<br />

Cook the bacon until it begins to brown in a frying<br />

pan, add in cherry tomatoes and zoodles. Cook<br />

for another 5 minutes, then move all contents<br />

into a bowl, topping with fresh goat’s cheese and<br />

parmesan cheese. A great alternative to regular<br />

spaghetti as there are no carbs, it’s light and can be<br />

made vegetarian friendly.<br />

Note - You may be thinking ‘where the hell do I get<br />

zoodles from’? Don’t stress, they can be found in<br />

almost every supermarket.<br />

serves 2<br />

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coconut pancakes<br />

zoodles<br />

falafel wraps<br />

53


smorgasboarder<br />

end of the road<br />

When you’re on the road for a few weeks your sense of adventure takes over, your curiosity<br />

grows and you find yourself wanting to go further, driven by the thought of discovery. I<br />

guess that’s why we humans travel, there really is no other feeling like the one travel can<br />

give you. Every person knows something that you don’t and that’s what should motivate us<br />

to experience new places and people for ourselves, not through the tips of our fingers.<br />

54


smorgasboarder<br />

9’1” x 22 1/2” x 3”<br />

Californian Lightweight model. Glassed in mustard resin tint, cut<br />

laps with gloss polish finish. Custom orders available and shipped<br />

Australia wide.<br />

NMC SURFBOARDS<br />

Barwon Heads, Victoria<br />

M: 0438 800 539<br />

Insta: @nmcsurfboards<br />

E: nmcsurf@bigpond.com<br />

6’2” x 20” x 2 1/2”<br />

Etc boards incorporate a skin of paulownia wood sandwiched<br />

between layers of fiberglass on the deck. This makes the boards<br />

incredibly strong and resistant to pressure dings yet maintains<br />

great flex characteristics. The board building process involves<br />

vacuum bagging which infuses resin deep into the eps core. The<br />

resultant board is lighter yet much stronger than traditional surfboard<br />

construction. Steve has a range of designs and custom builds are<br />

also available.<br />

ETC SURFBOARDS<br />

Insta: @etc_surfboards<br />

ETCSURFBOARDS.COM.AU<br />

CHRIS GARRETT SHAPES /<br />

PHANTOM SURFBOARDS<br />

M: 0424 <strong>45</strong>0 690<br />

E: phantomsurfboards@gmail.com<br />

CHRISGARRETTSHAPES.COM.AU<br />

Custom surfboards, contact Chris<br />

or see Board Culture at Mermaid<br />

Beach for stock boards<br />

55


smorgasboarder<br />

SQUARE PEG<br />

Made for good/<br />

barreling waves.<br />

Wide point and<br />

volume pushed<br />

forward to help<br />

paddle in early and<br />

extra rail for hold<br />

in the power. The<br />

perfect board for<br />

Indo wave season.<br />

Come see us<br />

about making one<br />

for your travel<br />

quiver.<br />

Signature Model 9’4”<br />

Inlay with transparent tint.<br />

Volan glassed, wet rub finish<br />

BROWNDOGG SURFBOARDS<br />

Leamington, Oak Flats 2529<br />

M: 0416 <strong>45</strong>5 985<br />

E: browndogg1@optusnet.com.au<br />

BLACK SQUARE SURFBOARDS<br />

M: 0407 604 753<br />

E: info@blacksquaresurfboards.com.au<br />

BLACKSQUARESURFBOARDS.COM.AU<br />

WORLD CLASS AUSTRALIAN MADE<br />

SURFBOARDS AT AFFORDABLE PRICES<br />

The Glider<br />

A longboard that rides different.<br />

Everything is in the name: GLIDER<br />

The board is not intended to stick to<br />

the wave, like the nose rider would. The<br />

glider uses all the rail and will give you<br />

this smooth fast and effortless feeling of<br />

“glid- ing” along the waves.<br />

Glassed with 2 layers on the bottom<br />

and three on the deck. Always made as<br />

a unique one of a kind art piece to keep<br />

it fresh. Available in 12’, 11’ and 10’ or<br />

you can order a custom.<br />

Custom Shortboards<br />

Hybrid & fishes<br />

Mals & Logs<br />

Full Repair Service<br />

DBURGE SURFBOARDS<br />

Factory 3/6 Kerta Rd<br />

Kincumber NSW 2251<br />

M: 0415 577 085<br />

DIVERSE SURFBOARDS<br />

Australia +61 419 246595<br />

Bali +62 812 37368771<br />

E: dave.verrall@gmail.com<br />

insta: diversesurf<br />

DIVERSESURF.COM.AU<br />

56


smorgasboarder<br />

THE XL TWIN 7’6” x 22 x 3<br />

Mild concave into twin channels. Long fluted fliers.<br />

Built to catch waves easily and be loose and nimble for a board it’s<br />

size. Add the trailer fin when the waves have more juice. Rusty resin<br />

done with cutlap sand double deck patch.<br />

Custom built with one set of hands for Roy @Brunswicksurf<br />

6’8” - 21 1 / 2” - 2 3 / 4”<br />

Single Fin Glider<br />

#customiseyourlife<br />

SJS SURFBOARDS<br />

Insta: @sjscustom<br />

Facebook: Scotty James Surfboards<br />

Insta: @darcysurfboards<br />

M: 0409 527 467<br />

E: darcy@darcysurfboards.com<br />

DARCYSURFBOARDS.COM<br />

H<br />

Y<br />

P<br />

E<br />

R<br />

F<br />

L<br />

E<br />

X<br />

5’3” x 20 1 / 4” x 2 3 / 8”<br />

Cyan Tint Twin Fin Running<br />

FCII Retro Keels<br />

Hyperflex is our own in-house design<br />

epoxy board technology. These are<br />

one of the lightest, fastest and most<br />

responsive boards on the market today.<br />

Traditionally there has been a trade off<br />

between flexibility and durability, but<br />

with the hyperflex technology you get<br />

the best of both worlds.<br />

The construction of these boards has<br />

been tested by our team over the past<br />

2 years and proven itself time and<br />

time again, being a go to in and out of<br />

competition.<br />

ENTITY SURFBOARDS<br />

1-2/1 Regmoore Close<br />

Culburra Beach NSW<br />

P: 0423 987 492<br />

E: entitysurfboards@gmail.com<br />

Insta: @entitysurf1<br />

ENTITYSURFBOARDS.COM.AU<br />

GEN4 SURFBOARDS<br />

E: hello@gen4surf.com<br />

Insta: @gen4surfboards<br />

Facebook: gen4surfboards<br />

GEN4SURF.COM.AU<br />

57


smorgasboarder<br />

BEFORE<br />

AFTER<br />

13 footer<br />

I reckon size matters when you want to get back in the water after a<br />

major knee operation. This is the board I made for Michael Yule – all<br />

13 foot of it. Made with two 9’8”s, I cut the tails off and glued them<br />

together with the right deck rocker before I started shaping.<br />

Restoration Specialists // Custom Surfboards //<br />

Surfboard Glassing // Anything Fibreglass or epoxy<br />

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGNS<br />

P: 02 4<strong>45</strong>6 4038<br />

M: 0427 767 176<br />

E: markrab88@gmail.com<br />

BUCKO’S SURF BOARD REPAIRS<br />

Unit 12 22/24, Arizona Rd<br />

CHARMHAVEN<br />

M: 0422 304 078<br />

E: buckossurfboardrepairs@outlook.com<br />

58


smorgasboarder<br />

9’4” nose rider log 23” x 2 3/4”<br />

Smooth easy turning stable nose rider<br />

CLEARWATER SURFBOARDS<br />

M: 0417 912 207<br />

E: stevedelrosso@yahoo.com.au<br />

Insta: @cwsurfboards<br />

WWW.CWSURFBOARDS.COM<br />

5’11” Phantom Model<br />

MCKILL SURFBOARDS<br />

M: 0478 154 <strong>45</strong>6<br />

E: mckillshapes@gmail.com<br />

Insta: @mckillsurfboards<br />

MCKILLSURFBOARDS.COM<br />

OKE SURFBOARDS<br />

1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC<br />

P: 03 9587 3553<br />

E: rory@okesurfboards.com<br />

OKESURFBOARDS.COM<br />

59


smorgasboarder<br />

6’6” x 20 1 / 2” x 2 3 / 4”<br />

Jim Pollard inspired channel<br />

bottom single fin<br />

4’10” x 19 1 / 4” x 2 1 / 4”<br />

This is my “twinkle toes”<br />

model with a mix of a retro<br />

twin outline, Modern rocker<br />

and concave, it’s the perfect<br />

option for the smaller summer<br />

days and long point breaks.<br />

Ideal wave size 1-4 ft.<br />

Also available with 2 channels<br />

for more speed and stability.<br />

HARVEST &<br />

JACK KNIGHT<br />

SURFBOARDS<br />

2/24 Christine Ave, Miami<br />

P: (07) 5576 5914<br />

E: hello@harvestsurfboards.com<br />

HARVESTSURFBOARDS.COM<br />

SHORTIE SURFBOARDS<br />

Insta: shortie__surfboards<br />

Facebook: shortie surfboards<br />

E: shortie_surfboards@hotmail.com<br />

P: 0421 948 007<br />

The CHOLO model is<br />

a small wave groveller<br />

to the BANTAM<br />

performance. It has<br />

the same rocker as<br />

the BANTAM but<br />

with wider points in<br />

nose and tail with a<br />

continuous curve.<br />

The medium round rail<br />

and single into slight<br />

double concave lends<br />

hand to powerless flat<br />

sections. There is also<br />

a slight S deck for<br />

added hidden volume.<br />

Great for small<br />

beachies and points<br />

in the 1’-4’ range.<br />

Available in PU and<br />

EPS/EPOXY.<br />

19” x 23’’ x 16 ½”<br />

Owner Operated Model, 9’4 to 10’2<br />

This model has a scooped out concave leading to a flat area for<br />

stablilty and roll in the tail, 50/50 rails. It is our go to log, it nose rides<br />

a dream and easily jams nice turns off the rear. 100% handshaped<br />

and made on the central coast NSW. $1300 comes with fin and tint<br />

or spray of your choice.<br />

ROOSTER BRAND<br />

Instagram, Facebook & Tumblr: roosterbrand<br />

E: roosterbrandltd@hotmail.com<br />

WWW.ROOSTERBRANDLTD.COM<br />

IMPRINT SURFBOARDS<br />

Central Coast, NSW<br />

E: imprintsurfboards@hotmail.com<br />

M: 0<strong>45</strong>1 220 800<br />

60


smorgasboarder<br />

Splinter<br />

9’1” x 22 3 / 4” x 3”<br />

70 Ltrs<br />

Lightweight Eco Board, made<br />

from Australian made recyclable<br />

EPS foam and Australian Grown<br />

Plantation Paulowina Timber.<br />

Built to last.<br />

Pity @carl_wri is in the way,<br />

not a bad sunset!<br />

ISLAND SURFBOARDS<br />

147 THOMPSON AVENUE, COWES VIC<br />

P: 03 5952 2578<br />

E: cowes@islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

225 SMITHS BEACH ROAD, SMITHS BEACH, VIC<br />

P: 03 5952 3443<br />

E: cowes@islandsurfboards.com.au<br />

ISLANDSURFBOARDS.COM.AU<br />

TREE TO SEA<br />

P: 0409 211 751<br />

E: info@treetosea.com.au<br />

TREETOSEA.COM.AU<br />

Zap<br />

6’2” x 21” x 2 5 / 8”<br />

Carsey<br />

5’8” x 20” x 2 1 / 2”<br />

twin fin<br />

twin fin with inlay<br />

by Carsey<br />

QUARRY BEACHSURFBOARDS<br />

75 David Street,<br />

Caversham, Dunedin NZ<br />

P: +64 3 <strong>45</strong>5 7414<br />

M: +64 27 518 8678<br />

E: grahamcarse@xtra.co.nz<br />

QBSURFBOARDS.COM<br />

THE DING KING / CLARK SURFBOARDS<br />

Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road, Hackham, SA<br />

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

M: 0422 443 789<br />

61


smorgasboarder<br />

fuzeillear<br />

words: tami argaman<br />

Fuzeillear aka Claire Matthews, is originally from<br />

England. Being an immigrant myself I asked her<br />

what she misses most about home.<br />

“What people normally escape from: Scraping the<br />

frost off your windscreen with a credit card and<br />

going to crap pubs.”<br />

I like her! Claire always enjoyed drawing, she did<br />

her first mural with some tiny brushes on a wall in<br />

Ocean Street, Maroochydore. It took her twice as<br />

long as the agreed time frame but she loved it and<br />

quickly found herself doing more wall art.<br />

You’d think that an artist would find it challenging,<br />

painting in large dimensions like that. Not Claire,<br />

her biggest struggle most of the time is nearby<br />

toilet access!<br />

“Give me a clean black wall with a toilet nearby and<br />

a place to park next door and I’ll love you forever.”<br />

she says.<br />

Most of Claire’s wall art features the beauty of flora<br />

and fauna. She got frustrated about how many<br />

people weren’t stoked about a tiger shark she once<br />

painted in Cairns because they see the animal as a<br />

menace.<br />

“Sharks are not a menace, they are vilified by<br />

Hollywood and the media and they need our<br />

protection.”<br />

I also asked Claire what she would like to tell the<br />

world. “Being kind is cool. Please don’t litter.”<br />

Agreed.<br />

“Do not be afraid of shadows, they bring depth to art, and life”<br />

62


smorgasboarder<br />

a grassroots history<br />

An Empty Ocean Road is a definitive history<br />

charting the early development of surfing and<br />

surfing culture in the South Island. Written by<br />

someone who was there, Kaikoura surfer and<br />

writer Ian Surgenor, it is an engaging, eloquent<br />

and grassroots account. Each region has its own<br />

chapter and is packed with detail, good yarns and<br />

humour. There are additional chapters covering<br />

other aspects of the sport including shark attacks,<br />

surfing vehicles and local legends. The book is<br />

rich with rare surfing imagery, including over 250<br />

photographs depicting the people, places and<br />

events of those early years.<br />

A perfect excuse for many surfing road trips,<br />

this book has been thoroughly researched over<br />

20 years. Ian was compelled to tell the stories<br />

that were glaringly missing from other so called<br />

histories of New Zealand surfing which mainly<br />

focussed on the North Island. These previously<br />

untold accounts of early surfers, innovative board<br />

shapers and intrepid adventurers, who pioneered<br />

surfing in the Mainland, are now captured for future<br />

generations to enjoy.<br />

Renowned surfing photographer and author Warren<br />

Hawke has called An Empty Ocean Road “an<br />

incredible history of South Island surfing both in a<br />

pictorial and written sense”.<br />

The allure of the ocean and the nostalgic notion<br />

of hitting the road to find unspoilt and uncrowded<br />

breaks are stronger now than ever. However, a<br />

number of our iconic surf breaks are currently under<br />

threat from various unnatural forces. This book is<br />

a timely reminder of the contribution surfing has<br />

made, and continues to make, to our free-spirited<br />

culture, the protection of our ocean environment<br />

and the economic development of many of our<br />

beloved coastal towns.<br />

An Empty Ocean Road – Surfing History of the<br />

Mainland was self-published by Ian Surgenor in<br />

December 2018. It was proudly printed in the South<br />

Island by Spectrum Print of Christchurch.<br />

It is available online at https://kaikoura-museum.<br />

co.nz/product/an-empty-ocean-road/<br />

For further details please phone Ian Surgenor on<br />

021 0877 9101 or email nedsandwalker@gmail.com<br />

63


smorgasboarder<br />

support the grassroots<br />

surf directory<br />

alkali adorn<br />

Beautifully handcrafted artisan jewellery with rustic unpolished silver,<br />

shells and precious stones to create one-of-a-kind pieces. Inspired<br />

by the surf and the natural wonders of the sea.<br />

Instagram: @alkaliadorn<br />

the surf emporium<br />

Clothing, wetsuits, surfboards, surfboard and wetsuit rentals.<br />

Open 7 days 9am – 5pm<br />

3 Wainui Rd, Raglan<br />

P: +64 7 282 0018 E: info@raglansurfemporium.com<br />

raglansurfemporium.com<br />

the board shop<br />

New Zealand’s Surf Specialists – The Board Shop has been at<br />

the cutting edge of hi-tech epoxy surfboard, longboard and SUP<br />

technology for over 20 years. Drop in or check them out online.<br />

49 Barrys Point Rd, Takapuna, Auckland<br />

P: +64 9 486 0930 | theboardshop.co.nz<br />

coolest spot in town<br />

A front row seat to beautiful Lyall Bay, Wellington’s top surf spot and<br />

the best brunch around!<br />

Located at Lyall Bay in Wellington. Opened 7am – 5pm<br />

maranuicafe.co.nz<br />

island surf shack<br />

Gear we carry: Carve sunnies, watches, clothing, boards & surf<br />

hardware, Ocean & Earth clothing & surf hardware, Maddog Boards<br />

& surfing hardware, Bear clothing, Bamboozld Bamboo Socks &<br />

Boxer shorts, Mexican Bajas , Sunbum sunscreen, ILoveEarth<br />

recyclable collapsible reusable coffee cups, Old Guys Rule Tees &<br />

accessories, Nepalese woollen yin yang jumpers & ponchos, Golden<br />

Breed, Hawaiian dashboard hula girls, coconut soy candles, Kombi<br />

giftlines and replicas, fun beach and hawaiian gift lines.<br />

150A Thompson Avenue, Cowes,<br />

P: 03 5952 1659<br />

Holloway Gallery<br />

“Anatomy of a Wave” by artist Col<br />

Chandler, Holloway Gallery is at Moffat<br />

Beach, QLD. We specialise in unique art<br />

to fill your home.<br />

Come in store or see us online.<br />

1 Roderick Street, Moffat Beach QLD<br />

p: 07 5491 5557<br />

hollowaygallery.com.au<br />

64


smorgasboarder<br />

the heart of the surf community<br />

your original surf shop - packed full of the best gear<br />

Celebrating great customer service along with the latest surf gear<br />

and fashion for 44 years and going strong.<br />

T7, 119 Princes Highway, Woolworths Centre, Ulladulla<br />

P: ​(02) 4<strong>45</strong>4 4904<br />

Instagram: @southernmansurf<br />

southernman.com.au<br />

goodtime surf skate and sail<br />

Caring for a surfer’s every need since 1971.<br />

Goodtime Surf Skate and Sail @goodtimesurfandsail<br />

29 Ipswich Rd, Woolloongabba 4102, QLD<br />

Car-park at rear of the store, off Gibbon St<br />

P: (07) 3391 8588 E: info@goodtime.com.au<br />

www.goodtime.com.au<br />

surfware australia<br />

So much surf gear in store you will be amazed!<br />

From surfboards to skateboards, wetties, surfwear and all the latest<br />

gadgets. SPECIAL FOR THIS ISSUE: 50% OFF LAST SEASON<br />

WETSUITS (INCLUDES VESTS, SPRINGSUITS & STEAMERS)<br />

2 Bulock Street, Caloundra Qld<br />

P: 07 5491 3620 surfwareaustralia.com<br />

surfing accessories<br />

We have Australia’s hottest new surfing accessories to keep you<br />

in the surf longer. Our innovative products can help you enjoy the<br />

surf and outdoors even more and provide you with protection and<br />

comfort as you follow your passion! Stockists of H2Odyssey webbed<br />

gloves and X-STING-WISH®IT. Organic sting relief.<br />

seeyououtthere.com.au<br />

tried and trusted blanks<br />

Family owned and run for the past 56 years, our consistency is the<br />

best in the world. Our blanks come in a multitude of different lengths,<br />

rockers and weights. We also have an extensive variety of timber<br />

stringers of varying widths. And we have all the shaping tools you<br />

need to make a board from scratch!<br />

5 Stewart Road, Currumbin Qld<br />

P: 07 5534 3777 burfordblanksaustralia.com.au<br />

for your culinary delights<br />

The Rivermouth General Store. Great coffee + speciality teas,<br />

gourmet food, fresh juices, smoothies, art, awesome vibe, surfing<br />

stories + the floor is worth reading.<br />

101 Sunpatch Parade, Tomakin Nsw<br />

Instagram: @therivermouth<br />

Facebook: The Rivermouth General Store<br />

65


smorgasboarder<br />

support the grassroots<br />

raglan longboards<br />

Quality surfboards Long or Short<br />

Short or Long term rentals<br />

Mickey T. custom shapes<br />

Full repair service.<br />

P: +64 7 825 0544<br />

raglanlongboards.co.nz<br />

standup paddle boarding nz<br />

South Island’s complete SUP centre.<br />

Lessons, hire, demo, training, sales.<br />

Unit 2, 1030 Ferry Road,<br />

Christchurch NZ<br />

P: +64 3 384 5086<br />

groundswell.co.nz<br />

up surf coaching trips<br />

Travel with like-minded surfers at your<br />

level, surf fun waves with video analysis<br />

of your sessions, improve your skills.<br />

Designed for intermediate/average surfers.<br />

Locations in NZ, Indo and more to come.<br />

upsurfcoaching.co.nz<br />

surfboards designed and shaped<br />

by mike jolly<br />

Full repair service. Rentals, surfing gear<br />

and good advice.<br />

122 Seaview Road, Piha Beach NZ<br />

P: +64 9 812 8723<br />

pihasurf@xtra.co.nz<br />

piha domain motor camp<br />

PIHA<br />

DOMAIN<br />

MOTOR CAMP<br />

Camp on the beach in front of the iconic<br />

Lion Rock, at one of NZ’s top surf breaks.<br />

Rates from $18 a night for tent sites.<br />

E: pihacamp@xtra.co.nz<br />

P: +64 9 812 8815<br />

preece’s surf shop<br />

Plenty of new and used surfboards,<br />

bodyboards, wetsuits, clothing and<br />

accessories. The only surf shop right on<br />

the coast. Open 7 days.<br />

159 Esplanade, Port Noarlunga Sth, SA<br />

P: 08 8386 0404<br />

preece-sthport-surf.com.au<br />

indo surf travel insurance<br />

The NEW Travel Insurance that also<br />

covers<br />

SURFBOARDS - even IN USE surfing!<br />

$25 Million Emergency Flights & Hospitals<br />

Price Beat Guarantee!<br />

indosurf.com.au<br />

sup centre<br />

Life’s better standing up. A one stop<br />

shop for everything SUP with the best<br />

brands, range, prices and expertise. With<br />

access to all the major SUP brands in NZ,<br />

through a nationwide delivery service.<br />

20 Melrose Street, Newmarket, NZ<br />

P: +64 9 520 3366<br />

supcentre.co.nz<br />

brunswick surf shop<br />

Chock full of awesome threads, sunnies,<br />

surf and skate accessories, Therapy,<br />

Matt Hurworth and RA Hand Shaped<br />

Surfboards to have the locals frothing.<br />

1/12 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads NSW<br />

P: 02 6685 1283<br />

brunswicksurf.com.au<br />

66


GREEN MACHINE<br />

OLD SCHOOL 6’10”<br />

SINGLE FIN FLEXTAIL<br />

WITH TAHITIAN LIME<br />

GLASS TINTS<br />

OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS<br />

P: 02 6655 7007<br />

info@outerislandsurfboards.com

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