Sheep magazine Archive 2: issues 10-17

Cultural THIEVERY
Whilst plagiarism is widely discussed amongst graphic designers and
musicians, cultural appropriation is hardly mentioned. The term is
commonly used to describe the appropriation of cultural elements
without permission, usually elements from a marginalised culture that are
appropriated by a dominant culture.
A well-known example in the USA is the American brand Urban Outfitters
which in 2009 designed a ‘Navajo’ range of items, using patterns
‘inspired’ by Navajo textiles. The Navajo are a Native American tribe in
the USA, and the company did not consult with the tribe beforehand, ask
their permission, or share the profits that were made from the products.
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Photograph: unknown
Jaclyn Roessel, who grew up learning to weave on a Navajo reservation,
said, ‘I wonder whether they understand that Navajo is even ... a living
culture ... and that there are women today who wear outfits with these
designs on them because they mean something.’
Initially the brand refused to change the name or its products, but after
increased pressure from social media in 2011, Urban Outfitters pulled its
‘Navajo’ products from the shelves.
The appropriation of ‘black’ music stylings like blues and reggae by
mainstream popular white musicians for financial gain is well-known. The
difference between ethno-musicologists like Ry Cooder, Bob Brozman, Taj
MID-AUGUST 2016