MR January 2019

JANUARY 2019 | ISSUE NO. 1 | VOL. 30
THE
INNOVATORS
Those who think
outside the box
BOLD MOVES
AT MACY’S
PHLUID
CHALLENGES
RETAIL
NORMS
INSIDER’S GUIDE
TO FLORENCE
8 MUST-BUY
STREETWEAR
BRANDS
REINVENT
YOURSELF
Every now and then your brand
needs a makeover. We share tips
from those who did it right!

Talliaorange.com 1.800.336.9363

JANUARY 2019
CONTENTS
DEPARTMENTS
Editor's Letter 6
The key to successful brand reinvention is instinct.
Guest Editorial 8
Marc Weiss examines three trends pushing reinvention in the
industry today.
Ones To Watch 10
Four brands on the rise you should consider adding to your store.
Scene 12
An insider's guide to eating, drinking, sleeping and partying in one
of the world's most fabulous cities.
Fashion 70
A look at how to style some of the market's trendiest, must-have items.
28
34
12
42
FEATURES
The Big Picture 27
The stats say it all and upscale
menswear will do just fine in
2019.
Street Where? 28
Fashion experts on why streetwear
cannot be ignored.
Art of Reinvention 32
Industry consultants reveal
how menswear companies can
reinvent themselves in today's
era of disruption.
Bold Moves 34
A new team at Macy's is making
waves.
Sharing Spaces 38
As WeWork continues to expand,
it's entering into the retail game.
Gender Studies 40
Retail veteran Rob Smith provides
community and inclusion
for an underserved demographic.
Tailored in Transit 42
Retailers and manufacturers
struggle with a continuing
conundrum.
Getting Personal 46
Menswear execs reveal how
they're changing their businesses,
and their lives, in 2019.
Marketing in 2019 50
Social media tips to help you
grow your business.
Fancy Footwork 52
A look at the latest trends
in luxury dress shoes and
sneakers.
Most Wanted 54
Some of the best and most
unique accessories the market
has to offer.
Sea Change 80
A father and son's relationship
is reinvented.
2

JANUARY 2019
THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE
EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
CREATIVE DIRECTOR STEPHEN M.VITARBO STEPHEN.VITARBO@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
FASHION DIRECTOR STEPHEN GARNER STEPHEN.GARNER@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER VICTORIA BEALL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR RITA GUARNA RITA.GUARNA@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
ADVERTISING
GROUP PUBLISHER SHAE MARCUS SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
DIRECTOR OF SALES MONICA DELLI SANTI
NATIONAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KAREN AZZARELLO
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KRISTIN DAUSS, JESSICA SALERNO
PRODUCTION
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION CHRISTINE HAMEL
DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING SERVICES JACQUELYNN FISCHER
GRAPHIC DESIGNER, ADVERTISING SERVICES VIOLETA MULAJ
ACCOUNTING AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK
ADVISORY BOARD
LIZETTE CHIN PRESIDENT MEN’S FASHION, UBM/INFORMA
BLAIR DELONGY VP OPERATIONS, JOHN CRAIG/CURRENTS
LINDSAY MORTON GAISER VP/GMM, ANDRISEN MORTON
DURAND GUION GROUP VP, MACYS INC
DONNY HUBBARD OWNER, HUBBARD CLOTHING
WILL LEVY PRESIDENT, OAK HALL
JIM MURRAY PRESIDENT, AK RIKKS
BRUCE PASK MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, BERGDORF GOODMAN/NEIMAN MARCUS
WAINSCOT MEDIA
CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN
PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN
VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, TOM FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL
SUBSCRIPTIONS
FOR SUBSCRIPTION/CIRCULATION INQUIRIES, CALL: 201-573-5541.
OFFICES
EDITORIAL OFFICE 1120 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS, FOURTH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10036
CORPORATE OFFICE 110 SUMMIT AVENUE, MONTVALE, NJ 07645
MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FOUR TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 110 SUMMIT AVENUE,
MONTVALE, NJ 07645. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 110 SUMMIT
AVENUE, MONTVALE, NJ 07645. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 110 SUMMIT AVENUE,
MONTVALE, NJ 07645; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT SHAE MARCUS AT 856.797.2227 OR SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM.
COPYRIGHT © 2018 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 30, ISSUE 1. ©2019
4

Craftsmanship and natural materials
Platinum-plated writing implements with barrels made from dark brown
Grenadilla wood segments, separated by gleaming platinized rings. Available in Fountain Pen
with 18-karat bicolor gold nib, Rollerball, Ballpoint and Pencil. Sophisticated
leather accessories combine elegant design with maximum functionality.
For More Information Please Visit www.Graf-von-Faber-Castell.com • Faber-Castell USA, Inc • Sheila@fabercastell.com

EDITOR'S LETTER
PAUSE AND REFLECT
Reinventing your business via instinct, not rules.
It’s hardly surprising that in today’s era
of reinvention, everyone’s an expert. I get
dozens of emails daily from PR companies
pitching “authorities” who, for free press,
will happily pontificate on every conceivable
aspect of the business. The problem, of
course, is that in our fast-changing retail
universe, no expert or rule book can tell
us how best to buy, present, advertise, sell,
markdown and ultimately get rid of the
excessive amount of goods our industry still
produces. (May I suggest Delivering Good
and Soles for Souls, two wonderful nonprofits
that help the less fortunate?)
I love what Simon Graj from Graj
& Gustavsen advises in this issue about
reinventing your brand: “It’s not about
learning the ‘right’ approach to brandbuilding;
it’s now about observing, listening
and acting on intuition. People are no
longer buying ‘stuff;’ they’re not listening to
marketing messages promoting things they
don’t need. They’re looking for solutions, for
products and experiences that enhance their
lives. If you’re authentic, it’s a good time to be
in this business. If you’re just selling stuff, it’s
not....”
In this, MR’s Reinvention Issue, we
examine the reinvention process from many
perspectives: department store, specialty
store, real estate, retail technology, social
media, tailored clothing, luxury streetwear,
accessories and more.
Our department store case study is
Macy’s. In an era when small is the new
big and artisanal trumps mass produced,
it’s amazing how seamlessly this retail giant
has incorporated the current zeitgeist into a
reinvented business model. Read how Macy’s
president Hal Lawton and top menswear
merchant Mark Stocker are investing in
the future, making numerous changes that
include adding exclusive product, in-store
shops for unique fast-turning items, new
technology including virtual and augmented
reality and a distorted penetration of men’s
fashion with new adjacencies to connect
sportswear and tailored clothing. (It’s
unfortunate that Wall Street appears not
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority,
it’s time to pause and reflect.” —MARK TWAIN
to appreciate intelligent investments in
the future that, of course, affect
current margins but are already
boosting sales.)
Our specialty store
focus is The Phluid
Project, an inclusive
approach to genderneutral
fashion and
community; our nonfashion
close-up is
WeWork, a
phenomenon
that reminds
us how quickly
a simple idea
can change
our world.
Check out our in-depth analysis of tailored
clothing (an admittedly tough business in
today’s casual era but fabric innovation,
made-to-measure and replenishment
programs are boosting sales for many)
and luxury streetwear, which has quickly
grown from a niche underground category
to a mainstream industry. (But once
mainstream, is it still cool? Read our feature
and find out!)
Also in this reinvented (and redesigned)
MR: a lot more of Stephen Garner’s
fabulous fashion, Cristiano Magni’s
Florence (where to eat/drink/shop/stay
while at Pitti Uomo), Nick Hilton’s poignant
essay on fixing a family rift, industry execs
on personal reinvention and much more.
Please let us know what you like, hate, want
to read next, etc. Although our look has
changed, our mission remains to educate,
entertain and inspire; we can’t do it without
your wisdom, experience and ideas!
And speaking of such, I conclude
with another Mark Twain quote that
epitomizes what so many of us believe
in our gut but have yet to act upon:
“Twenty years from now, you’ll be
more disappointed by the things
you did not do than by the things
you did. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor.
Catch the trade winds in
your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.”
6

The finest fabrics
for custom tailoring
since 1948
See us at the Designer Forum NY and Chicago Collective
HMS International - www.hmsfabrics.com | Huddersfield Fine Worsteds UK - www.hfwltd.com | Gladson Ltd. - www.gladsonltd.com

GUEST EDITORIAL
FORGET
THE
STATUS
QUO!
It’s time for retailers to
reexamine, rethink, and redo!
By Marc Weiss, Management One
Reinvention today is based on three trends
in retail: speed, convenience and scarcity.
Speed to market of new fashion. Speed and
scarcity driving the elevated streetwear
market. Through drops and launches,
vendors create demand via scarcity of
product. We’re witnessing the beanie baby
phenomenon on steroids, where customers
are paying crazy prices, significantly higher
than retail. Granted, a good portion of
this is resold on the Internet. Through e-
commerce, shopping becomes convenient.
Scarcity is created by vendors limiting
delivery. Comme Des Garcons precludes
oversaturation by limiting their accounts’
open-to-buy each season, just one example
of how vendors are in control. But those
retailers with hustle, who are fast to these
prized vendors, are generating huge
increases and capturing market share.
What’s interesting to me is how so many
of the top luxury men’s stores completely
missed this opportunity. Their customers
are snapping up these coveted products at
cool new stores and websites that appeal to
the new wave of hip and youthful wealth.
One of our retailer clients in its seventh
year, coming into the business with no
experience, is crushing it. They did it
by rolling the dice on what became “it”
brands, through great storytelling, and with
knowledgeable and caring sales associates.
They were not afraid of a $700 sneaker
or a $300 T-shirt, and neither are their
customers.
Speed and hustle involve a willingness
to gamble without fear of failure. Not all
collaborations work; some pop-ups are
We’re witnessing the beanie baby phenomenon on steroids,
where customers are paying crazy prices, significantly higher than retail.
better than others. Butch Blum, a longtime
successful retailer and now consultant,
offers the following: “My experience with
pop-ups has been mixed. The shops that
seem to work best are the ones located
close to the store’s main entrance. A broad
assortment of goods is important, as is a
good supply of inventory to replenish bestsellers.”
One notable success story: Kith
was founded in 2011, by 2017 was sharing
a look book with Bergdorf Goodman and
now has a store within Bergdorf’s. They
know how to capitalize on each other’s
markets, both demographically and psychographically.
Understanding the crossover
in product and customer following is
critical. To best accomplish this type of
collaboration, you need to be a strong,
consistent storyteller on social media.
It goes without saying that today’s
customers want convenience and new goods
all the time. Expectations have changed: the
Internet has trained us to shop 24.7.365.
Studies have proven the longer the lead-time
on delivering goods, the lower the sellthrough
and profit. A few deliveries a year
does not give your customers reason to visit
you regularly. Thanks to Nike and Adidas,
young male customers are being trained
earlier and earlier to want new goods. Ask
any 16-year-old what’s on Nike’s next quick
strike launch and he or she will respond
with color and style. These are your next
generation customers, in stores and online.
In sum, reinvention as an art form is a
willingness to embrace and adapt to change,
not fear it. Risk aversion steers you toward
the status quo, even as the status quo is
tumbling downhill.
8

SPRING SUMMER 2019 COLLECTIONS
Our unique design approach made
Bertigo ® shirts the embodiement of
elegance and european flair, fit for the
modern man.
This season, discover, besides an
impressive display of beautiful shirts,
masterfully created by international
Designer Yaniv Bitton, discover our
line of carefully crafted Blazers.
Their sophisticated fits and tasteful
color combinations, carry further the
spirit of the brand, bringing European
and American esthetics closer.
We have applied our expertise of
patterns and colors to a large line of
polo shirts and swim trunks, created
with the same obsession for quality
and elegance that made us a
landmark of the 21st century
menswear world.

ONES TO WATCH
NEW
THREADS
These four brands on the rise are
serving up creatively designed
product you should consider
adding to your store. By Stephen Garner
CASABLANCA
Here is a brand to put on your radar when thinking of adding newness
to your store: Casablanca.
This up-and-coming Parisian menswear brand has officially launched
with a new après-sport concept by French Moroccan creative director
Charaf Tajer. The debut collection, dubbed Casablanca Tennis Club, is
the brand’s spring/summer 2019 collection, which is available now.
For Tajer, who is known for his involvement with French brand
Pigalle and Parisian hot spot Le Pompon, Casablanca is effortless elegance
that epitomizes his interpretation of new luxury. The Moroccan city of
Casablanca, where Tajer’s parents met and where he spent his summers as
a boy, evokes childhood memories of what vacations and getaways feel like.
Manufactured in Casablanca and designed between Paris and
Casablanca, the debut collection consists of T-shirts ($60 retail), silk
shirts ($625), terrycloth tracksuits ($450) and tailored suits ($890).
Retailers to pick the brand up in its first season include Maxfield,
Alchemist, Browns, Ssense and United Arrows, to name a few.
FLITELESS
With more than 40 years of footwear experience
behind them, industry veterans Johan Ringdal,
Anders Sverdrup-Dahl and Paul Fleming, whom
you may know from Swims, have come together to
launch a new project destined to disrupt the dress
shoe market.
The now two-year-old footwear brand, dubbed
Fliteless, solves a common problem of the modern
working professional: commuting to and from
work in sneakers to avoid the discomfort of dress
shoes. Fliteless provides the solution by combining
the technology and bounce of a running shoe with
the elegance of a classic dress shoe.
“Fliteless is all about comfort and wellness—we’ve
even dubbed one of our customer personas ‘the exathlete-turned-dealmaker,’”
says Fleming. “At our core,
we believe the modern guy should be able to walk
around in complete comfort in his business shoes.”
And these shoes seem to be striking a chord with
retailers and consumers alike. Fliteless has already found
success with menswear stores across the U.S. including
Andrew Davis, The Rogue, Pinstripes, Circa 2000 and
more. Retail price ranges from $280 to $380.
10

Looking ahead to next year, Fleming and
his team are rolling out a new digital POS unit
which allows the brand’s wholesale partners to
capture missed sales opportunities’ “Our retailer
partner can pocket a sizable commission off
MSRP without having to own every SKU, and
the customer will receive his purchase directly to
his home in two to four business days,” explains
Fleming. “Essentially, we’re trying to think
differently not just in our design process, but
also in ways to evolve the business model for the
benefit of our retail partners by adding a new
revenue stream.”
TOM ÀDAM
Hailing from Paris, this under-the-radar brand is
serving up chic and sustainable underwear and
swimwear for men. Using natural materials in
refined silhouettes that stretch beyond seasonal
trends, Tom Àdam incorporates textiles sourced
and developed in collaboration with artisans
around the world.
“We ensure that every phase of the brand
development, construction and production process is flawless and
refined to the smallest details,” says Tom àÀdam Vitolins, creative
director. “Imperative to our brand is the slowing down of the mass
production of men’s underwear market, with outstanding craftsmanship
and the best materials out there.”
While Vitolins is doing his part to minimize waste in this market
segment, he and his team are working hard to develop new sustainable
ways to create beautiful undergarments men will want. “Quality of
the product, attention to detail, and of course the sustainability side of
manufacturing process keep our customers coming back,” adds Vitolins.
The brand’s most popular item is its swim short, which retails for
€150, with its boxer short (€65) and brief (€45) coming in close behind.
At the moment, Tom Àdam’s only U.S. presence is at LA retailer Blend/
Stories, but the brand is hoping to gain traction in the States having
built quite a presence in Europe.
CAMERON BATES
Originally from North Carolina and now based in New York, Cameron
Bates launched his eponymous label at a young age, infusing the
streetwear brand with energy that attracts a like-minded audience of
driven young men.
“I take great pride in making a high-quality product,” says Bates.
“The material, cut and weight of the finished garment all play a role
in how the customer perceives each style. That is the entry point of
interest, but what sells them is getting to know who I am as a person
and as a designer. I allow the consumer to be a part of the world that I
create. Each style is an invitation into who I am, how I think and feel.
The consumer needs to understand this to fully understand the brand.”
The designer streetwear brand landed at Atlanta retailer ATTOM,
which also has a location in Switzerland, for its debut season and is
poised to open 10 to 15 more doors moving into the fall/winter 2019
collection. Bates’ strongest pieces are his outerwear, which ranges
from coaches jackets to tactile vests. Retail prices range from $125 to
$695.
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
11

SCENE
EXPLORE
An insider's guide
to eating, drinking,
sleeping, shopping
and partying in this
most fabulous city!
By Cristiano Magni
If you are bitten by the Pitti virus, you know
very well that symptoms include long hours
standing, chatting and shaking hands at the
Fortezza. The most debilitating symptom,
though, is perhaps one’s inability to explore
the crevices of this magical city you have
traveled so long to get to and are so excited
to be in, yet have only scraped the initial
tourist-filled surface of. Fret not, though, as
we have the antidote! Welcome to a curated
guide to the Florence one wouldn’t normally
get the chance to stumble upon—filled with
unusual and, for some, still secretive go-to
destinations adored by locals.
* Please note that, in the interest of your time,
I have limited the scope of my tour to the
historic center.
Let’s start with places to stay. If you are
traveling on a budget and all you need is an
immaculately clean room walking distance
from La Fortezza, try La Dimora degli
12

HIDDEN FLORENCE
Angeli, a small inn just steps from the
Duomo.
If you can splurge, anything from
Westin to the Helvetia & Bristol to the
Savoy and all the way to the Portrait will
certainly not disappoint. An all-time classic
compromise is the 4-star Antica Torre
di Via Tornabuoni. This elegant tower
partially overlooks the Arno and serves a
scrumptious buffet-style breakfast—and if
you’re anything like me and would rather
skip lunch than stand for a long time in the
Pitti cafeterias, this key advantage is not to
be overlooked. Other worthy nominees in
this same category are Hotel Spadari and
Room Mate Isabella Hotel. If you want to
make the best of your Florentine nights and
wake up as late as possible (Anyone? No?
Just me? ), try Hotel Cellai, a charming
boutique venue located in a newly restored
19th century townhouse, only 10 minutes
walking distance from Fortezza da Basso.
One golden rule applies across the board,
regardless of where you choose to stay:
Book early!
If your mind doesn’t immediately dart
to the deliciousness of Italian cuisine when
you think of traveling to Italy, you might
need to reevaluate your priorities. Fasten
your taste buds and keep reading.
Among the top Florentine restaurants of
the moment is Osteria dell’Enoteca (Via
Romana, 70r), where you can personally
handpick the wine from a curated cellar
under the guidance of an expert sommelier.
No matter your choice, you won’t regret it.
Another dining experience not to be
missed is offered by Cibrèo (Via Andrea
del Verrocchio, 5r), serving since 1979
authentic seasonal cuisine alla Toscana.
Two doors down and owned by the same
chef, Fabio Picchi, is its Tuscan-Japanese
fusion version, Ciblèo. If you love a rustic
ambiance, Trattoria 13 Gobbi (Via del
Porcellana, 9r) is going to be your top
pick—just be sure to get their mouthwatering
rigatoni sauce. Another oldschool
trattoria I discovered in my college
years that I ritually visit every time since
is Cammillo (Borgo San Jacopo, 57r). It is
a classic go-to spot that combines Tuscan
delicacies (including gluten-free options,
evviva!) with wonderfully moderate prices.
If you are lucky enough to be able to
step out from Fortezza for lunch (if that’s
you, teach me your secrets), try Luisa
Via Roma’s Floret. With its gorgeous
terrace seating, this spot offers very clean
organic recipes in addition to delicious
cleansing juices. Another little favorite of
mine (especially on a tight schedule) is
Essenziale (Piazza di Cestello, 3r). Order
From left: The beautiful Duomo shines in the
Florence sky. The library junior suite at Antica
Torre di Via Tornabuoni. Santa Maria Novella
perfume workshop offers fabulous scents.
chef Simone Cipriani’s tasting menu ad
occhi chiusi. You’ll be assisted by one waiter
for orders and drinks, while the cooks will
explain each dish to you. For the true steak
connoisseurs, indulge in a carnivorous
feast at Buca Lapi (Via del Trebbio, 1 r).
Founded in 1880, it is the oldest restaurant
in Florence. Everything screams perfection
at Frescobaldi (Piazza della Signoria, 31),
from the sophisticated décor to the menu.
To top it off, just a few steps away, inside the
recently opened Gucci Garden, you can
find an all-day museum restaurant, opened
by chef Massimo Bottura, that mixes Italian
dishes with international inflections.
If you are on the go and like to jump
from one place to another like a social
butterfly, then small bites and to-die-for
drinks served up in an all Italian setup,
may be what you are looking for. Start at
the new Manifattura Tabacchi (Piazza di
San Pancrazio, 1), mixing ambience with
sublime cocktails. Just steps from Ponte
Vecchio, in Piazza dei Rossi, 1, is Le Volpi
e l’Uva, one of the city’s best wine bars to
seek out vintages from small producers
and delicious stuzzichini. Mad Souls &
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
13

SCENE
Spirits turns mixology into an art with
itsunique combinations and unconventional
concoctions—try the carrot jam with
bourbon and egg whites—all in a small,
minimalistic space. A classic staple is The
Fusion Bar (Vicolo dell’Oro, 3), nested
inside the Gallery Hotel Art, never failing
to impress its devotees with sophisticated
cocktails and elegant ambiance. The exclusive
first speakeasy bar in Florence, Rasputin,
may be hard to spot as the only clue you are
given is the street name, Piazza Santo Spirito.
I will give you a quick tip (sshh!), and trust
me, your feet will thank me: When you see
a tiny entrance with a two-seater wooden
pew, a crucifix on the wall and tea lights
glimmering in the doorway, stop and enter.
Inside this gothic extravaganza, you can
find 1930s furnishings and Prohibition-era
cocktails. Social media fanatics be warned,
photography is not allowed inside! In
addition to the classic Coquinarius (Via
delle Oche, 11r), which is arguably one
of the best wine bars in Florence, I would
encourage you to try, for a totally different
experience, Kawaii, a tiny minimal bar
famous for its saké and Japanese whiskey
(Borgo San Frediano, 8r).
Yes, I know, it’s easy to fall into the
charm of luxurious five-course meals and
extravagant wines, but you cannot have a
full Florentine experience unless you taste a
panini—easy, simple and delicious. Perfect
for a quick stop or for a lunch on the go, i
Fratellini, in Via dei Cimatori, 38r, is only
64 square feet, yet has been around since
1875. A useful address for a snack after a
visit to the Uffizi is Ino (Via dei Georgofili
3r/7r), a gourmet sandwich bar that uses
ingredients sourced from all over Italy.
Bakery by day and wine bar by night,
the Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, Via dei
Tavolini, 18r, is adored by locals. Waiting
is well worth it if you find a line outside of
Il Vinaino, Via Palazzuolo, 124, one of the
most popular “street food” places, which
offers some of the best truffle-based plates
in town. Order a glass of vino della casa
(house wine) at the vegetarian-friendly
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli, in Piazza dell’Olio,
15, and don’t forget to make your way
to the cellar, where you can taste their
unforgettable ribollita.
Speaking of delicatezze fiorentine, il
Trippaio di Sant’Ambrogio in Piazza
Lorenzo Ghiberti, located inside the
famous market, offers the best lampredotto
sandwich in town. If you feel full, take the
opportunity to get your digestive system
going with a 10-minute walk across the
Arno to Piazzale Michelangelo, a square
up a hill with stunning views of the city.
For all the romantics out there, you cannot
miss the nearby Giardino del Bobolino,
the smaller, quainter version of the adjacent
public park Boboli Gardens.
If you are a shopaholic, guard your
wallet! These places are sure to tempt your
addictions. The Scuola del Cuoio (School
of Leather), in Via S. Giuseppe 5r, offers
glimpses into the craft of leather making.
Older masters and young apprentices cut
and transform the leather into all different
pieces. You can personalize your purchases
with gold initials that will be embossed
on the spot. Giovanni Baccani’s The Blue
Shop is a dream for all home décor lovers.
Founded in 1903, this fourth-generation
artisan shop still preserves its early 20th
century furnishings, and sells chandeliers,
frames, lamps and typical artifacts of the
Florentine handicraft tradition. Another
family-run business is the book shop of
Alberto Cozzi, who makes bindings for
From left: Inside the elegant restaurant Buca Lapi .
The team extraordinaire at Manifattura Tabacchi.
handmade books, gildings and engravings
created with the tools of the trade inherited
from his grandfather. In you’re thinking
fashion, and fawn at the idea of having a
suit or dress sewn by expert tailors, pick
your fabric among the miles of textiles that
Via De’ Pecori’s Casa dei Tessuti has been
offering since 1929. Last but certainly not
least is my favorite shopping spot: the grand
Santa Maria Novella perfume workshop.
The oldest pharmacy in Europe, it produces
and sells lotions, drugs and perfumes
according to the medieval recipes of the
Dominican friars in the 1300s.
Thousands of pages would still
not suffice to round up all the magical
hidden artistic gems Florence has to
offer. Considering that, after all, this is
not technically a vacation, I will share a
“quick art ritual.” After an inevitable first
night aperitivo at Procacci, I go straight to
Palazzo Strozzi, located in the namesake
Piazza, and enjoy its major exhibitions. No
matter how busy I am, I always find the
time to go see the Brancacci Chapel, in
the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine,
famous for its 1400s glorious painting cycle
designed by Masolino da Panicale and his
protégée Masaccio. Before heading back
to the train station on my way to Milan, I
never miss the contemporary art exhibits at
Museo Novecento, in Piazza Santa Maria
Novella. If you are either too early or…too
late for your train (guilty!), a last stop at
the train station’s luxury bakery VyTA can
offer one final glimpse of Florentine beauty
before you embark on your next journey.
Are you ready to enjoy hidden
Florence? Pick your favorite spots and, uno
due, tre, via!
14

Italy
@NYMENS

Directory
0909
booth 466
export@0909.it
www.0909.it
40 COLORI
booth 432
info@italplus.com
www.40colori.com
U.S. CONTACT
ESP Showroom
elizabeth@espshowroom.com
A.F.G. 1972 - FONTANELLI
booth 1142
nipal@nipal.eu
www.nipal.eu
ADESI-Cashmere
booth 1138
sisto@adesitex.it
U.S. CONTACT
GC Fashion Group Inc.
gcfashiongroup@gmail.com
ANDREA BOSSI/ ITALWEAR
booth 1128
info@andreabossi.com
www.andreabossi.com
U.S. CONTACT
Tarcisio Paciocco
italwear@msn.com
ARCURI TIES
booth 1018
info@arcuricravatte.it
www.arcuricravatte.it
U.S. CONTACT
Marcello Tarantino
marcellotarantino@sympatico.ca
BAGUTTA
booth 1028
showroom@cit-spa.it
www.bagutta.net
U.S. CONTACT
Fo.ri Showroom
jacopo@jacopofoti.com
BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO
booth 1040
belts@rsadvnet.it
www.belts-parma.it
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
2 | ITALY@NYMENS
BERWICH
booth 1030
amministrazione@berwich.com
www.berwich.com
U.S. CONTACT
Fo.ri Showroom
jacopo@jacopo.me
BRESCIANI 1970
booth 1117
info@bresciani.it
www.bresciani.it
U.S. CONTACT
Micahel Ford
mikerdford@yahoo.com
CALABRESE 1924
booth 1114
info@calabrese1924.com
www.calabrese1924.com
CROCLUX
booth 1141
lapcinture@gmail.com
www.pelletterialap.it
U.S. CONTACT
Milford Leathers
stefania@milfordleathers.com
DALMINE 1952
booth 1020
dalmine@robertson1770.com
www.dalmine.com
DI BELLO by FONTANI
booth 1002
alice@lineafontani.it
www.fontanifirenze.it
U.S. CONTACT
Nick Xhumba
dibello@dibello.com
DOLCEPUNTA
booth 1103
monica@dolcepunta.it
www.dolcepunta.it
U.S. CONTACT
Fuori Porta
nicola@fuoriportanyc.com
ESEMPLARE
booth 1032
gianni.gai@esemplare.it
www.esemplare.it
U.S. CONTACT
Fo.ri Showroom
jacopo@jacopofoti.com
FeFè
booth 1009
info@fefeglamour.it
www.fefeglamour.it
FERRANTE
booth 1042
fabio@ferrante.it
www.ferrante.it
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
FILIPPO DE LAURENTIIS
booth 1105
amministrazione@ferrantebrands.it
www.filippodelaurentiis.it
U.S. CONTACT
Fuori Porta
nicola@fuoriportanyc.com
FRAY
booth 1013
info@fraycamiceria.com
www.frayitaly.com
U.S. CONTACT
Giovanni Vasta
italianlifestyl_2013@libero.it
GALLIA
booth 1007
commerciale@gallia.it
www.gallia.it
INGRAM - REPORTER
booth 1145
itcpromotion@inghirami.com
www.ingram1949.com/it
U.S. CONTACT
Roman Gershengorn
Roman.Gershengorn@ballin.com
ITALO FERRETTI
booth 1022
info@italoferretti.it
www.italoferretti.com
U.S. CONTACT
Pino Tricase
pinotri@aol.com
MANDELLI
booth 1121
e.mandelli@mandelli-milano.it
www.mandelli-milano.it
MARCHESI DI COMO
booth 1129
raffaella.carraro@carraro-srl.com
www.abbey-neckwear-ltd.qc.quebecx.ca
U.S. CONTACT
Jin Frati
jin@abbeyties.com

a compilation of this season's
hottest trends by renowned
luxury italian brands.
All made in Italy
MARCO DE LUCA BOSSO
booth 1137
demapelle@libero.it
www.marcodelucabosso.it
U.S. CONTACT
GC Fashion Group Inc.
gcfashiongroup@gmail.com
MONTECHIARO - IMPULSO - LORENZONI
booth 1029
customerservice@montechiarousa.com
www.montechiarousa.com
MORA 1962
booth 1046
info@mora1962.it
www.mora1962.it
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
myths
booth 374
m.dorlando@myths.it
www.myths.it
NAPOLEONE ERBA
booth 1011
bomboi@napoleoneerba.com
www.napoleoneerba.com
U.S. CONTACT
Giovanni Vasta
italianlifestyl_2013@libero.it
ORAZIO LUCIANO
booth 1109
pino@oraziolucianonapoli.com
www.orazioluciano.com
ORTIGNI 1930
booth 1125
info@sutoris.it
www.ortigni.it
PANIZZA 1879
booth 1146
info@panizza1879.com
www.panizza1879.com
U.S. CONTACT
Roberto Dorfzaun
rdorfzaun@gmail.com
PAOLO ALBIZZATI
booth 1043
tatiana@paoloalbizzati.com
www.paoloalbizzati.com
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
PAOLO SCAFORA NAPOLI
booth 1102
info@paoloscaforanapoli.it
www.paoloscaforanapoli.it
PAOLO VITALE HANDMADE IN ITALY
booth 1108
commerciale2@paolovitale.it
www.paolovitale.it
PAURI & CASATI
booth 1119
camiceriasartorialemilano@gmail.com
www.casati-milano.it
U.S. CONTACT
Massimo Pauri
massimopauri@verizon.net
PIERO GABRIELI MADE IN ITALY
booth 1010
palazzosartoriale@gmail.com
www.palazzosartoriale.com
RATTà
booth 1107
ratta.luciano@gmail.com
www.ratta1989.it
RIFUGIO - HANDMADE LEATHER JACKETS - NAPOLI
booth 1012
info@alfredorifugio.com
www.alfredorifugio.com
U.S. CONTACT
Nico Albanese
nicoonthe5@gmail.com
SANT'ANDREA
booth 1003
marchesi@saintandrews.it
www.saintandrews.it
U.S. CONTACT
Luciano Moresco
moresco@saintandrews.it
SEM
booth 1131
info@semcreazioni.it
www.semcreazioni.it
U.S. CONTACT
Stefano Massa
sm@nonsolomoda.ch
SILVIO FIORELLO
booth 1044
info@silviofiorello.com
www.silviofiorello.com
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
SINCLAIR
booth 1039
sinclair@sinclair.it
www.sinclair.it
TACCALITI
booth 1038
g.taccaliti@giovannitaccaliti.it
www.taccaliti.com
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
TARDIA
booth 1045
tardia@tardia.it
www.tardia.it
U.S. CONTACT
Jodina Trading
jodina@msn.com
TIKI NAPOLI
booth 1135
giorgio.robustelli@gmail.com
www.tiki.it
U.S. CONTACT
GC Fashion Group Inc.
gcfashiongroup@gmail.com
TINTORIA MATTEI - CALIBAN
booth 1033
michela.petrali@giemmebrandscorporate.it
www.giemmebrandscorporate.it
U.S. CONTACT
Gruppo Mattei
michela.petrali@gruppomatteinc.com
VILLA DELMITIA
booth 1106
info@villadelmitia.com
www.villadelmitia.com
WALKING STICKS
booth 433
info@walking-stick.eu
www.walking-sticks.eu
ZABEO CASHMERE
booth 1111
zabeo.cashmere@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/zabeo
ITALY@NYMENS | 3

Outerwear
italian clothing and outerwear
combine artisanal construction
with luxurious fabrics.
MANDELLI
sinclair
DI BELLO by FONTANI
0909 A.F.G. 1972-FONTANELLI
NAPOLEONE ERBA
Feel the difference.
4 | ITALY@NYMENS

RIFUGIO - handmade leather
jackets - NAPOLI
SANT' ANDREA REPORTER TARDIA
sem ESEMPLARE Piero Gabrieli made in italy orazio luciano
VILLA DELMITIA Rattà myths MARCO DE LUCA BOSSO
ITALY@NYMENS | 5

Knitwear
MORA 1962 ADESI-CASHMERE DALMINE 1952
ZABEO CASHMERE
MONTECHIARO
LORENZONI
6 | ITALY@NYMENS

italiAN KNITWEAR IS SUPPLE AND
LUXURIOUS. your customers will
appreciate the difference.
Filippo De Laurentiis
IMPULSO
ferrante
Berwich
Experience it for yourself.
ITALY@NYMENS | 7

Shirts
GALLIA Taccaliti caliban
BAGUTTA FRAY ANDREA BOSSI /ITALWEAR
8 | ITALY@NYMENS

the shirt is the palETTE
from which you build
great overall style.
tintoria Mattei
INGRAM
PAURI & CASATI
Stand out from the crowd.
ITALY@NYMENS | 9

Neckwear
italian neckwear is
the world standard
for quality and style.
40 COLORI MARCHESI DI COMO DOLCEPUNTA
SILVIO FIORELLO ARTURI TIES FeFè
Italo Ferretti
PAOLO ALBIZZATI
CALABRESE 1924
Tie it all together.
10 | ITALY@NYMENS

Accessories
unique and beautiful items
from italy offer instant appeal.
PAOLO VITALE handmade in italy BELTS+DI PIAZZA STEFANO BRESCIANI 1970
tiki napoli
CROCLUX
PANIZZA 1879
It's the details that count.
ITALY@NYMENS | 11

Footwear
footwear from italy is the final
touch for every wardrobe.
ORTIGNI 1930 PAOLO SCAFORA NAPOLI WALKING STICKS
Complete your look.

2019 LUXURY MENSWEAR
BY THE NUMBERS
The stats say it all: Upscale menswear stores are doing just fine, thank you! By Karen Alberg Grossman
Yes, reinvention is critical and technology plays a role, but America’s upscale menswear
merchants have not abandoned their winning formula: spectacular product + unparalleled
service = the ultimate shopping experience!
PROFILE OF A LUXURY
MENSWEAR STORE
AVERAGE # OF
YEARS IN BUSINESS:
59
AVERAGE
AVERAGE STORE
SIZE: 5166
SQUARE FEET
# OF
ACTIVE CUSTOMERS:
8400
AVERAGE %
MENSWEAR
TO STORE:
61%
MOST EXPENSIVE SUIT: $8416
AVERAGE SALE:
$900
AVERAGE
SUIT TICKET: $1940
% MENSWEAR
VOLUME ONLINE: 2.5%
SOURCE: STOREOWNER SURVEY CONDUCTED BY MR IN FOURTH QUARTER 2018
BREAKDOWN
OF
MENSWEAR
BUSINESS BY
CATEGORY
53% Tailored
clothing•
furnishings
OPERATING
STATISTICS
60%
Initial markup:
23%
Markdowns:
31% Sportswear
6% Footwear
10% Accessories•
grooming•gifts
51%
Gross margin:
Sales per sq ft: $1000
THE BIG PICTURE | MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
27

LUXURY STREETWEAR
STREET WHERE?
Fashion experts and retailers on why not to ignore streetwear.
By Stephen Garner Photography by Tom Sloan at Lalaland Artists for Farfetch
We can’t seem to escape the influence of
streetwear. The category that traditional
retailers love to hate is not going
anywhere. In fact, the market segment’s
influence shows no signs of slowing
down.
Some may say its symbolic high point
came back in 2017 when streetwear
darling Supreme sold a stake that
reportedly valued the company at $1
billion to the private-equity firm Carlyle
Group. It was a staggering valuation for a
company known for selling hoodies and
T-shirts, and for drawing lines of devoted
teenagers to its store for weekly drops.
But the success of Supreme, and
streetwear in general, makes sense
when you consider changes in fashion
and culture. The rise of casual styles
and stretch fabrics used across all
classifications reflects a demand for
comfort. This, coupled with Millennials
and Gen Z shoppers, who represent a
dominant share of fashion consumers,
is helping to propel streetwear to the
inevitable climax we’re in now.
“It’s gone beyond a trend; the market
has adapted to the reality of how men
dress,” maintains Robert Nowill, global
content and style editor at Farfetch.
“Sneakers, sportswear, hoodies, bomber
jackets —these aren’t trend items. They
are mainstays in most men’s wardrobes.
They’re not going anywhere. That said,
over the last couple of seasons we’ve also
seen designers offsetting these more
casual pieces with elevated, sophisticated,
tailored fashion.”
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director
for Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman
Marcus, tends to agree with this notion.
“Streetwear, or ‘athletic-inspired
sportswear’ as I like to call it, is less
of a trend and more of a wardrobe
component. I think it’s great for the
customer to have flexible boundaries
for what defines a specific category. Kim
Jones at Dior Men’s and Riccardo Tisci
at Burberry are adding both tailoring
and athletic influences for a more robust
assortment. This mix of high and low,
tailored and casual—it makes for a
more compelling store and shopping
experience.”
“Streetwear is here to stay,” adds
Roopal Patel, fashion director at Saks
Fifth Avenue. “This category has been
part of the menswear wardrobe for
decades and continues to grow and
evolve. Hoodies, sweatpants, tracksuits
and sneakers have always existed, but
now these items have been elevated and
are part of the man’s everyday wardrobe.”
So, who is buying this “stuff ” anyway?
“Overall, it’s a young men’s game when it
comes to luxury streetwear,” says Michael
Fisher, vice president and creative
director of menswear at trend forecasting
agency Fashion Snoops. “Guys in their
teens to early 30s are driving the trend. I
think the interesting thing is how young
guys are driving the reintroduction of
street-centric collections from the ’90s,
like Perry Ellis America, or unexpected
8 BRANDS DRIVING THE STREETWEAR MARKET
Customers are flocking online and in-store to devour every last piece from these brands.
Off White ■ Balenciaga ■ Versace ■ Gucci ■ John Elliott ■ Fendi ■ Stone Island ■ Aimé Leon Dore
collaborations like Palace Ralph Lauren
(with Palace skateboards) and Tommy
Hilfiger x Kith.”
Farfetch is seeing a larger customer
base for the streetwear items it sells. “It’s
not just Millennials, though they are a key
demographic for these kinds of products,”
adds Nowill. “More broadly, it’s men
with a Millennial mindset, regardless of
their age or where they live: They have an
interest in design, they care about the way
they look, and they don’t want to dress
like their parents did.”
Patel shares this sentiment. “The
beauty of streetwear is that it’s accessible
to everyone,” she says. “From the 15-yearold
high school student, to the 30-year-
28

MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
29

LUXURY STREETWEAR
old entrepreneur, to the 45-year-old dad,
streetwear doesn’t have an age limit.”
This brings us all back to Supreme
– the true godfather of streetwear.
This brand can be seen on high
school students to 45-year-old dads as
mentioned above. But what other brands
are developing this new wave of athleticinspired
sportswear? “Virgil Abloh and
Off White, in my opinion, have driven
this category for quite some time, even
more than Kanye West,” says Fisher.
“These days, I continue to look to Kith
for the most excitement in this category.
Ronnie Fieg (owner and creator of Kith)
continues to dazzle us each season with
collaborations with partners like Greg
Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and even
Versace. Also, its brick-and-mortar retail
experience can’t be beat. I would imagine,
going forward, that even more of the
classic ’90s all-American brands will look
for ways to build on the nostalgia of their
glory days.”
For Farfetch, the brands that are
dominating its streetwear business run
the gamut. “We’ve seen success from
revered labels like Balenciaga, Raf Simons
and Undercover to emerging names like
Ader Error, Vyner Articles and GmbH,”
says Nowill. “The brands that have most
captured the attention of our customers
are the ones with a truly original point of
view.”
Moving into fall 2019, stores looking
to dabble in this hype-driven category
can start by adding sneakers. Every buyer
we spoke to about streetwear for this
story mentioned how sneakers are driving
this customer to come into the store and
make a purchase – whether it’s on the
newest “ugly dad sneaker” or for fresh
interpretations of classic hi-tops. Other
easy additions include graphic T-shirts
or oversized sweatshirts. But what’s most
surprising, according to Fisher, is the
resurgence of classic menswear shapes
like the car coat reimagined in relaxed
silhouettes with nontraditional fabrics
and prints, adding newness to all levels of
streetwear.
30

2.17-19 2019
theMART, Chicago
The buzz is true: The Chicago Collective
is the best menswear show this side of the
Atlantic. Listen, we were surprised too.
But we didn't just jump the line. Years of
planning, building and revamping have
established a show floor that works and
a vibe that keeps you coming back.
HERE’S WHY:
A NO BRAINER
We believe in working smarter, not harder. Navigable, hassle-free,
relaxing: we’ve got the best presentation and format anywhere. We
make your job easy, which means you’ve got more time to enjoy the
camaraderie of our tight-knit community. This is the show you actively
look forward to.
OPENING NIGHT PARTY
February 17th
6:00 p.m.
Marshall’s Landing
Presented By:
WE’RE IN WITH THE IN CROWD
All the brands you’re looking for? They’re here. From the major players
to the indie and emerging that you’ll want to be the first to discover,
Chicago Collective brings together over 350 exhibitors with the best
lines in contemporary, denim, outerwear, accessories and footwear.
Come explore.
OUR SHOW IS BEYOND FUN
Like, REALLY fun. In fact, this February we are partnering with Hudson
Jeans to bring you yet another epic Opening Night Party at Marshall’s
Landing. Plus, once you wrap each day you’re steps from world class
dining and exhilarating nightlife. So what are you waiting for?
#chicagocollective
chicagocollective.com

ANALYST OVERVIEW
THE ART OF
REINVENTION
A few of our smartest industry consultants
reveal how menswear companies
can reinvent themselves in today’s era
of disruption. By Karen Alberg Grossman
Eric Jennings,
E2 Brand Management
Robin Lewis,
The Robin Report
Simon Graj,
Graj & Gustavsen
Steve Pruitt,
Blacks Consulting
We all know that retailers and brands
are (or should be) in an accelerated
process of reinvention. What’s needed
for stores or brands to reinvent
themselves?
SIMON GRAJ, GRAJ & GUSTAVSEN: It’s no longer
about learning the right approach to brandbuilding;
it’s now about observing, listening
and acting on intuition. People are no
longer buying “stuff;” they’re not listening
to marketing messages for things they
don’t need. They’re looking for solutions,
for products and experiences that enhance
their lives. With the emergence of so many
new digitally derived brands, it’s much
harder for the big brands. Today, you have
to be a little bit of a rebel, an activist. If
you’re authentic, it’s a good time to be in this
business. If you’re just selling stuff, it’s not a
good time.
ROBIN LEWIS, THE ROBIN REPORT: Everything
starts with the consumer, which is now the
newly dominant next generation culture.
Using AI and machine learning, it’s now
possible to know, and even predict, what
each and every consumer wants (and will
want) when and where. (Think Amazon
and Stitchfix.) All channels of distribution
must be seamlessly integrated as one.
The physical platform (the store) must
promise a compelling experience and
personal touch, and anything BIG is a big
turnoff. Small, intimate, special, constantly
new and highly personalized—this is the
winning formula.
STEVE PRUITT, BLACKS CONSULTING: What’s
needed for reinvention: desire, brand
capital, strategy, financial capital.
ERIC JENNINGS, E2 BRAND MANAGEMENT:
Reinvention can produce great results if you
reinvent while still staying true to your core.
Deviating too much from your brand DNA
can alienate your customers and leave them
puzzled, which can hurt sales. As long as
brands remain true to what author Simon
Sinek calls their “WHY” (why they exist, or
their reason for being), then reinvention is
exciting and creates desire.
Some easy steps you can take:
32

■ Visuals—It doesn’t have to be
complicated! I’ve seen a fresh coat of paint
work wonders on many occasions. Visual
reinvention by creating breathtaking
displays and adding modern fixtures can
make a significant impact. Crisp visual
consistency online and in social media will
have significant impact too.
■ Technology—When incorporating
technology as a way to reinvent yourself,
keep in mind, it should create a showstopping
“wow” moment, or it should create
an invisible behind-the-scenes process that
helps your customers get exactly what they
want as quickly as possible. Today, capturing
and utilizing data is the name of the game.
Be sure you know what value you’re giving
your customers and communicate that to
them clearly. No one wants to appear too
“creepy.” People are willing to give up data
about themselves, as long as they see the
value given back to them.
■ Partnerships—An unexpected partnership
with like-minded brands and influencers
can up your “cool-factor” and create a whole
new perception of your brand. The Saks
Fifth Ave x Fox’s Empire partnership a while
back comes to mind; it had a lasting effect
on reinventing the Saks brand image for a
younger, hipper customer.
Who’s reinventing themselves well and
what are they doing right?
PRUITT: Gucci has got to be the greatest
turnaround in the last five years. Their
ownership is very smart, reinventing twice
in the past 20 years. They understand brand
capital as well as any company.
LEWIS: Walmart is changing at warp speed
in all the right ways, ironically even “debigging”
itself by acquiring a long tail of
small businesses and turning its physical
stores (supercenters first) into social
community gathering places with small
boutiques, parks, skating rinks and on
and on. Target, Kohl’s and Nordstrom all
understand they must do the same (in the
appropriate configuration for their models);
some are further along than others and
speed is of the essence.
GRAJ: One example: We’ve just developed
a new plus size women’s brand for Kohl’s.
They had the option to buy an existing
plus size brand but they opted to launch a
new one. We’ve announced it but have not
officially launched it but I think it will do
great: It’s a respectful destination space for
plus size women who have had few positive
shopping experiences in the past.
JENNINGS: Nordstrom did a great job
with its new men’s store in NYC. The
layout of the store is a bit quirky, and
the brand adjacencies are sometimes
dubious; however, it’s still quintessentially
Nordstrom. They added just enough new
and unexpected and paired that with the
great classification merchandising for which
they are known, so it all works. Moreover,
there always seems to be a broad range of
customers shopping: young and old, locals
and tourists, urban and classic.
Can you give any examples of failed
attempts and why they didn’t work?
PRUITT: The best example is Sears: It was a
bad strategy and was run by bankers, not
merchants.
ROBIN: I agree: Sears and Kmart because
they were run by a financier who didn’t
have a clue about how to reinvent them and
JCPenney under Ron Johnson circa 2012.
He had the perfect vision of what needed
to be done but his implementation was a
disaster because he refused to test his ideas
and he eliminated all promotional pricing
on Day One, thus alienating all of his core
consumers who fled the store and never
came back.
JENNINGS: Agree! JCPenney was built around
great sales and discounts; when they tried
to sell their customers on an everyday
fair price business model, it had a terrible
impact on their bottom line. Another good
example is Brioni, a business built around
classic, elegant Italian tailoring. When they
hired an edgy creative director and put
Metallica in their ad campaign, they strayed
too far from their core brand DNA.
Can you comment on the future of popup
shops, collaborations, product drops,
bloggers/influencers? What will have
the most impact on future shopping?
LEWIS: It’s no longer about siloed
distribution channels: The new point
of sale is consumers wherever they are.
Today’s consumers are channel- and
brand-agnostic. Marketing too is being
fragmented: We are “de-massifying”—no
more marketing to mass markets, which is
why even the advertising and publishing
industries are being squeezed. Most
importantly, physical stores and online sites
are no longer the only two distribution
points. All we have are “platforms”—and
Amazon’s platform is one on which any
product, brand, other retailer, essentially
anything and everything in the world can
operate.
GRAJ: I think there are many big opportunities
today. We’re in a moment of less inventory,
fewer SKUs but more raison d’être. I also
believe that art is the new fashion, food is
the new fashion, drinks are the new fashion.
There’s a new little shop downtown in the
Bowery called MaMaCha that’s a matcha
tea café and art gallery; the art changes
frequently so it’s a fun “selfie” experience
combined with a detox beverage.
PRUITT: The world is small. It’s all about both
spreading and sharing information. Popups,
collaboration, product drops, bloggers/
influencers are the execution of information
spreading and sharing. There will be more:
Just wait until AI and 5G technology gather
deeper followings....
JENNINGS: Pop-ups, collaborations, limited
product drops, and influencers are here to
stay because…they work! Not every brand
can do all of these options, so pick your
partnerships wisely. Make sure they push
the envelope enough to surprise and delight
your customers, while staying on-brand to
your core mission.
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
33

REINVENTION: DEPARTMENT STORE
34

BOLD MOVES
A visionary new team at Macy's is making waves. And sales gains.
By Karen Alberg Grossman
Like the Titanic, the world’s largest
department store had always seemed too
big to fail. Unfortunately, success in today’s
department store world has become
increasingly complicated: Small is the
new big, emerging brands are cooler than
broadly distributed labels, touch screens
trump human sellers and traditional rules
of retail are changing at lightning speed.
Fortunately, under the sage direction of
Macy’s chairman and CEO Jeff Gennette,
a new team of visionary top execs has
joined the ranks and the momentum is
already palpable. Here, MR chats with the
retailer's recently appointed president Hal
Lawton and top menswear merchant Mark
Stocker to learn how this iconic store is
reinventing itself.
Hal Lawton: Never More Relevant
Hal Lawton fell in love with retail (after
UVA business school and a four-year
stint at McKinsey) during his 10-year
tenure at Home Depot. There, he ran
both the online business and then the
merchandising operation; he left to run
“Exclusive product will ultimately
contribute 40 percent to our total mix.”
—Hal Lawton, president, Macy's
the Americas unit of eBay—a $35 billion
operation. Lawton joined Macy’s in
September 2017 with responsibility for
the full Macy’s brand: merchandising,
marketing, stores, operations, technology,
strategy, analytics and the website.
He describes himself as a disciple of
servant leadership: an inverted triangle
where empowering your frontline
leaders means they can better serve your
customers. “Our ultimate goal is to stay in
tune with (and ahead of) our customers,
so my job is to make sure we’re evolving
at the right pace and that everyone is
philosophically aligned so we can think
and act like one cohesive organization.”
Among the many new initiatives at
Macy’s, Lawton is most excited about:
■ The acquisition of the independently
owned Story boutique this past May,
and the prospect of Story impacting the
customer experience at Macy’s with the
addition of its founder Rachel Shechtman
to the Macy’s exec team. “We look forward
to bringing some version of Story into
Macy’s across a significant number of
doors. We believe stores need to get more
experiential, to create moments for their
customers and to give them a reason to
come back. We’re not counting on Story to
be the entire solution but it’s a piece of it.”
■ The rollout of Virtual
Reality and
Augmented Reality.
“We have the
nation’s largest
rollout right
now, in close
to 80 doors.
In our furniture
departments, for
example, customers can
touch and feel the furniture they
might want to buy and see how it will look
in their home. This also applies to our
beauty departments: An AR-enhanced
mirror can allow the viewer to see how
various shades will look on her. We’ve
also translated these types of experiences
into our app so that by using your camera
function (on an iPhone 7 or higher), our
furniture can appear in your living room."
■ The expanded use of RFID. “The vast
majority of product in our store will soon
be RFID-enabled, meaning our associates
can wave a wand and know what’s on
display and what percent of the stock
is backroom. Our associates check this
several times weekly. We measure our
stores on it; we hold our people accountable
for keeping that number low. This ensures
sizes and colors are available on the selling
floor and makes the experience for our
sellers far more efficient. We’re also excited
about other ways to use RFID in the future:
everything from theft detection to store
navigation.”
■ A consistently strong online
business: Macy’s invested
in its website early on
and can now boast 17
consecutive quarters
of double-digit
comps. Although
Lawton declines
to give figures
for in-store vs.
online sales (“It
makes no sense
since the two are
so intertwined…”),
Macys.com is
consistently ranked
among the top five or six
online retailers in the country.
■ Market@Macy’s: The Market@Macys
concept, for customers who love to
discover new brands and experiences,
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
35

REINVENTION: DEPARTMENT STORE
features a rotating selection of unique items.
At present (November, December, January),
Macy’s is showcasing a collaboration with
Facebook featuring cool product, from about
100 e-commerce brands across nine Macy’s
doors. In addition to adding excitement to
the selling floor, the concept helps emerging
brands reach new audiences.
■ More exclusive-to-Macy’s product that
will ultimately contribute 40 percent to
the mix including both private label and
exclusive product within national brands.
■ A new customer loyalty program that’s a
year old and going strong, especially since
its recently added bronze level program
allows non-Macy’s cardholders to get the
benefits.
Sums up Lawton, “We’re merging the
best of Macy’s history with new vision,
new technology and new initiatives for the
ultimate shopping experience. Our recipe
is grounded in a healthy and vibrant brick
& mortar business, a robust e-commerce
business and a fantastic global app. We’re
very happy with our store count (650
locations in 44 states plus more than 100
international locations via our website),
we’ve reported positive comps for the past
four quarters and we feel that Macy’s has
never been more relevant.”
Mark Stocker: Fashion Focus
Dressed in fashionably distressed jeans
and ultra-cool Nikes, the General Business
Manager for Men's and Kids at Macy's looks
very much like his new target customer:
“I’ve found that customers, especially young
customers, are not as brand loyal as they
are classification-focused.”
stylish, sophisticated, just a bit edgy. It’s a
refreshing change from the buttoned-up
look to which most retail execs ascribe
and a clear reflection of Mark Stocker’s
philosophy of life, boldly displayed on his
office wall: ‘Have the courage to live life the
way you want to!’
A Pittsburgh native, Stocker graduated
with a degree in finance, then worked in
banking and institutional securities. “I
liked but didn’t love it and was looking for a
career to love. My two years at Kaufmann’s
(Pittsburgh’s then preeminent department
store) filled that niche, followed by stints
at Gymboree and William-Sonoma. I then
joined Macy’s West as director of strategic
planning and moved to New York with the
My Macy’s initiative as national planning
manager.”
Stocker describes how insecure he first
felt with this position. “I’d never worked in
the field; I didn’t know anything about store
organization. But I was told that Macy’s
encourages execs with multiple experiences
to tackle new challenges. With 90 people
all over the country reporting to me, I
learned ‘on the job’ about communication,
delegation, empowerment. I relied on and
learned from my team which was the most
important lesson of all. I didn’t know if I
was doing it right but since the My Macy’s
localization initiative was brand new, no
one could say I was doing it wrong.…”
Insecurity overcome, Stocker is clearly
enjoying his role as menswear’s top
merchant. “We’ve taken the department
store menswear model and reinvented
it. We still cater to traditional consumers
but have added fashion-forward ones by
distorting the penetration of fashion. And
we’re taking some big risks, not just in
Herald Square but online and in many of
our doors. Younger customers in particular
are liking what they see, even in brands that
we’ve had for a number of years.”
Asked for examples, Stocker cites
Polo, Hilfiger, Calvin Klein. “The
risks we’re taking with exclusive
product from these brands is
paying back. We’ve got
to set ourselves apart,
even within brands
—Mark Stocker, GBM men’s and kids
the customer
knows well.”
In addition,
Stocker believes in
focus, in cutting back
assortments, sometimes by 20 to
30 percent. “It’s safer to take risks trying 10
different things but then you never get a
good read because the message is watered
down. When we stand behind something,
we do it in a really meaningful way. Instead
of 10, we’ll focus on three to five things that
help us connect with that new customer.
And the reaction has been strong: we’re
not walking customers; we’re bringing
in new ones!” Currently hot with Macy’s
customers, old and new: activewear, the
exclusive INC brand, classic categories
from Polo and open-sell shoes. “We’ve had
amazing results with an open-sell format
for men’s and kids’ shoes. We still have a
very well-developed dress shoe business but
we’re seeing the mix skew toward fashion
athletic. (Editor’s note: Stocker admits to
personally owning 55-60 pairs of sneakers,
forget all the dress shoes.…) We’re in Europe
with the fashion office a few times a year,
shopping collections and studying the retail
landscape. We can’t be stagnant in driving
our assortments: we’re constantly evolving
the mix and distorting the penetration
of fashion based, in part, on trends from
Europe interpreted for the U.S. market.”
With tailored clothing still a major focus
for Macy’s, Stocker sees much opportunity
to get even more out of it. “Tailored for
us is mostly a separates business with a
growing fashion component; many of our
clothing brands have added sportswear
to their collections. We’re working on the
right adjacencies, on incorporating tailored
pieces into an overall lifestyle.”
On the other hand, he’s shifted denim,
t-shirts and fleece to a classification
approach. “These categories used to be
merchandised by brand but this new
approach allows the customer to see
the full range of what we offer. We
do the same for men’s shoes: if
you want a black lace-up
dress shoe, you can go
to that section of the
shoe department
and see the entire
assortment.
I’ve found that
customers,
especially young
customers, are
not as brand
loyal as they
are classificationfocused.”
He offers
himself as an example of
this eclecticism: his wardrobe
runs the gamut from Polo and
Patagonia to All Saints and Scotch&Soda.
“I especially love the scarcity model: I try to
get my hands on things that few to no one
else might have.…”
Summing it up, Stocker declares that
“consumers are changing more rapidly than
ever. Our focus is to anticipate what they
want next and to ensure that Macy’s is the
first place they turn to to buy it.”
36

STYLE REFINED,
QUALITY UNMATCHED
RUNWELL CHRONO
This luxury men’s chronograph combines classic style with
versatile function. Fitted with a polished stainless steel case,
this 47mm Runwell Chrono features a black dial punctuated
with two sub dials and a calendar aperture. For work or play, it’s
a watch you can rely on to keep you on time and up to date.

REINVENTION
SHARE (AND
SHARE WE LIKE)
As WeWork continues to expand its physical footprint, it’s adding
brand extensions and fashion/retail collaborations. By Christopher Blomquist
WeWork is no longer wee. Launched a mere
nine years ago, this New York-based global
leader in shared, communal, aesthetically
pleasing office space has worked out very
well—and very quickly. In September
2018 it outpaced JPMorgan and became
the largest private tenant of office space in
Manhattan, where it now occupies more
than 5.3 million square feet across 50-plus
(and counting) locations. It also holds that
title in Washington, D.C. Ditto in London,
after landing in the British capital only four
years ago.
WeWork now has 268,000 members
in 287 sites worldwide and will soon be
present in 87 cities spanning 23 countries.
Like many a startup, the company is still
operating at a loss, mostly because it
continues to invest in further expansion. Its
reported first half revenues for 2018 were a
robust $763 million but overall losses came
to $723 million. Still, that hasn’t prevented
investors, such as Japan’s SoftBank, its
biggest one, from recently valuing it at $45
billion, making WeWork the second most
valuable U.S. startup after Uber.
WeWork, whose chief creative officer
happens to be former menswear designer
darling Adam Kimmel, has also been
making fashion-business headlines of late.
In October 2017 it announced that it was
acquiring the historic 676,000-squarefoot
Lord & Taylor Fifth Avenue flagship
building from Hudson’s Bay for $850
million and that the storied department
store would downsize its presence there to
just three floors. A little over eight months
later, Hudson’s Bay had a change of heart
and decided it would exit the building
entirely, leaving WeWork with 150,000
square feet of prime, empty real estate with
which to play. But rather than simply turn
it over to additional rentable office space,
WeWork has decided to stick with the
original plan of keeping it as retail space.
“WeWork is preserving the basement,
first and second floors for retail,” notes the
company’s website. “During business hours,
shoppers will once again walk through
the iconic entryway, where the brass and
bronze elements will be carefully restored.”
For now, WeWork is still very tightlipped
about exactly what—or even what
kind of—tenant might occupy the floors.
However, there’s a chance that the mystery
retailer could be, well, itself, as WeWork has
recently launched its own retail concept as
part of its seemingly limitless diversification
that now encompasses flexible living spaces
(WeLive), a wellness club (RiseByWe),
children’s schools (WeGrow), an app that
encourages people with shared interests
to socialize in real time (Meetup) and a
technology training bootcamp (Flatiron
School).
The new retail arm is named WeMrkt.
It debuted at the company’s 205 Hudson
Street location in Manhattan in June 2018
and has since extended to three more in
the city. “WeMrkt is our first premium
marketplace and it’s all about our members,
featuring more member products including
healthy snacks, office necessities, We
branded apparel and more,” the corporate
communications office explains. A panel of
judges chooses the store’s revolving monthly
selection at pitch nights wherein WeWork
member companies present their products,
which are assessed Shark Tank-style for
creativity and innovation, capability (aka the
sustainability of the business), impact and
appearance/packaging. While most of the 10
monthly winners have included foodstuffs
and other non-fashion items, the September
2018 WeMrkt did offer Blunt umbrellas
and co-branded WeWork hoodies, T-shirts
and trucker hats with Aviator Nation and
tote bags with Utility Canvas. The plan is to
expand the concept “both in the U.S. and
internationally in the coming months.”
WeWork has also crossed paths with
fashion by partnering with the women’s
subscription rental clothing service Rent
The Runway. The two announced in
October 2018 that the former had installed
drop-off boxes at 15 WeWork locations in
six US cities—and that the program would
most likely grow.
But even as it undergoes its own growth
and evolution, the heart—or at least roots—
of WeWork will always be its pioneering
reinvention of the workplace that gives
companies large or small the opportunity to
rent an office by the month. It’s an offer that
two of its longtime menswear-based tenants
say has generally served them well.
“I love WeWork; we’ve been working
out of a WeWork for four years,” says
Jacob Wood, a former Macy’s buyer who
launched Woodies Clothing, his online
direct-to-consumer menswear collection of
button-down shirts and chinos in 2014. Its
headquarters are at WeWork’s 175 Varick
Street building in New York. “Ultimately, I
wanted a collaborative space, where I could
meet new people, network with similar
companies and have a physical space to
38

meet new clients and host friends,” he adds.
Matteo Maniatty and Suwana Perry,
co-owners of the contemporary wholesaled
brand Descendant of Thieves, have
rented space in the WeWork building in
Manhattan’s Meatpacking District for six
years. They tell a similar story. “I think it’s
been beneficial because we’ve been able
to network with people who are not in
the business,” explains Perry. “We used an
accountant on our floor and a lawyer on
another. I think that makes you think out of
the box because you deal with people you
wouldn’t meet in a regular office because
it’s a shared space.” Maniatty adds that
they have used a fellow WeWorker graphic
designer and architect they befriended
in the building to help them design their
newly opened standalone store on Bleecker
Street and that, true to the communal spirit
of the space, some of the work was done via
barter. But not all their fellow tenants are
as open to networking onsite and prefer to
keep to themselves. “It’s what you put into
it that you get out of it, in terms of being
social,” says Maniatty.
The two also appreciate the flexibility
that their month-to-month lease provides,
which has allowed them to expand or
shrink their required space depending on
the size of their staff or the ever-changing
business climate. Being able to set up
temporary camp in a WeWork building
while traveling overseas is another huge
perk, they add.
Of course, no workplace will ever be 100
percent ideal, including WeWork.“I think
the negative is that being there makes your
brand look a little smaller and gives the
appearance that you are more of a startup,”
notes Maniatty. This is precisely why he’s
now conducting all sales appointments at
the store, where he can better express his
brand’s story and aesthetic vision.
Wood concurs: “As we grow a little too
big for WeWork, I’d love to have a standalone
office space/showroom where we can
brand everything and make the space our
own. Maybe by the time we’re ready for the
upgrade, WeWork will have a retail space
offering that will cater to my needs.”
Maybe—and most likely—this evergrowing
trailblazer will.
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
39

REINVENTION
40

CHALLENGING
TRADITION
Retail veteran Rob Smith provides community and inclusion
for an underserved demographic. By Stephen Garner
INCLUSION: one of the main driving
principles behind the opening of New York
City’s first gender neutral store last year.
Called The Phluid Project, this store stands for
something more than just clothes: It's about
creating an inclusive retail experience and
community hub for gender-nonconforming
and queer-identifying customers.
Retail veteran Rob Smith, who
served more than 20 years at Macy’s
along with stints at Victoria’s Secret and
Haddad Brands, opened the doors to his
3,000-square-foot store in NoHo in March
2018 to appeal to this underserved segment
within the burgeoning Gen Z market,
which is poised to contribute $143 billion in
spending power over the next four years.
This rising generation that Smith is
reaching out to has proven, in various
market studies and even just looking at
social media, to reject socially prescribed
labels. They overwhelmingly believe in
people’s right to define themselves, and in
the freedom to simply wear whatever clothes
make them feel good—regardless of gender.
According to research done by Smith,
56 percent of Gen Z and 46 percent of
Millennials don’t always buy clothes geared
specifically toward their own gender; they
choose to simply wear what makes them
comfortable and helps express their personal
style. And, according to the same research,
78 percent of young people say gender no
longer defines people as it once did.
“We are not just a store, we are a
movement, committed to challenging
the ethos of the traditions of the past that
inhibit freedom and self-expression,”
says Smith. “Our world is not defined by
binaries, and neither are we.”
So, if this store is genderless, how does
Smith make his seasonal buys, you ask?
Well, he reaches out to inclusive brands
and independent local designers that have
universal sizing standards. Brands like
Champion, Gypsy Sport, Dr. Martens,
Soulland, Kinfolk, Steve Madden, Fila,
Brand Black and State Bags are just a taste
of what is offered in the store across various
product categories like apparel, accessories,
beauty and gifts. Retail prices range from
$35 to $500.
“Our store is multifaceted, part retail,
part community space, part experiential
and completely gender-free,” maintains
Smith. “We will serve as a hub for the
community, creating a place to hang out,
have fun and share collective ideas.”
Smith does community engagement well,
hosting weekly events at the store ranging
from panel discussions on how to build a
brand, to information sessions on sexual
health and even traditional retail events like
trunk shows and charity fundraisers.
“Since most of us crave human
connection and dialogue, but have
lost some of that through social
media, I wanted to make
sure Phluid provides
ample seating for
reflecting and
socializing and
for special events
to create a
stronger sense
of community,”
says Smith.
“Additionally,
there is a
community space
in the lower level, fully
accessible to groups to
share ideas and experiences
in private, free of charge.”
Asked what brought him to open The
Phluid Project, Smith said, “The Phluid
Project is an opportunity for me to merge
my profession with my passion. I’ve spent
30 years in retail and the past decade
working with the Hetrick-Martin Institute,
empowering young people to live safe, open
and thriving lives as LGBTQ people. With
The Phluid Project, I’m able to wake up and
do what I love...innovating in fashion and
building a more connected and authentic
world.”
“I’ve always wanted to create spaces
for young people to really be themselves,”
maintains Smith. “As a kid I didn’t have
that, and I often think about how my
life might have been different if I had
the opportunity to explore my authentic
identity sooner. Even now I’m still in a
process of peeling back the layers of who I
thought I should be and finding out who I
really am. I want to give young people a safe
space to truly express themselves.”
Asked what inspires him the most,
Smith says, “I’m inspired by young people
who have the courage and strength to
live honestly and openly. The ‘Ph’ in
Phluid represents the balance of
masculine and feminine.
When this balance is
realized, we will see
our society reach
its full potential.
The space that
we have created
allows each
individual the
opportunity to
see what it feels
like for them,
knowing it will
continue to evolve
and change with each
day.”
Smith concludes: “As the world
continues to evolve, we should all strive
to be a part of that change. That doesn’t
just mean going along for the ride. It
means being an active agent of change
and a leader, moving things forward in a
significant and meaningful way.”
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
41

TAILORED CLOTHING
TAILORED IN
TRANSITION
Retailers and manufacturers struggle with
a continuing conundrum: how to sell more
suits in a casual world. By Karen Alberg Grossman
Despite much recent innovation in tailored
clothing (new comfort and performance
fabrics, speed to market, flexible sourcing,
customization, technology to enhance
both the design process and the shopping
experience), tailored clothing is still a
shrinking business. With wool prices up,
dress codes still casual and no compelling
new fashion direction (other than some
exaggerated styles on the runways),
maintaining unit sales is a challenge.
That said, merchants and manufacturers
focusing on niche businesses (occasion
dressing, made-to-measure, performance
fabrics) are reporting notable gains.
In fact, performance fabrics are in
particular demand of late due to the
rising price of wool. Says Ben Onorato
of www.honoursourcing.com, a Brand
Advancement Specialist, “Since reaching a
record high in September ’18, wool prices
have dropped somewhat, but they’re still
too high for the market to absorb or predict.
It’s time for retailers and manufacturers to
fully embrace blended, innovative textiles
that are engineered for performance and
comfort and better cater to today’s modern
consumer. Doing so could result in a 20-
30% cost savings, enabling companies to
maintain or even elevate their margins.”
Explains Mickey Solomon of HMS
International/Gladson Ltd., one of the
largest purveyors of men’s fabrics in the
U.S., “It’s tough to assess what will happen.
The last round was a double whammy:
Increased prices from Australia (the only
source for merino) plus the weakness
of the dollar meant wool prices went up
20-25 percent in a year! Still, our industry
has blinders on: We don’t appreciate what
a bargain wool is. After around 1970, all
worsted fabric (tropical or twill) was a set
price until about two years ago. Today, 50
years later, it’s only 10 percent higher. We’re
the quintessential example of deflation.”
(Editor’s note: According to Solomon, in
today’s totally free market, prices are elastic.
The Chinese have been the biggest buyers for
20 years, consuming 75 percent of the world’s
production of wool. Consumption by Italian
mill owners, by comparison, is tiny.)
While volume-priced retailers and
brands are increasing their penetration
of blended fabrics, luxury merchants are
hesitant, with customers accustomed to
pure wool. “The increased cost of wool
is scary!” admits Jeff Farbstein at Harry
Rosen. “It’s a big fight lately with our
vendors—merino and cashmere prices
are ridiculous! With China monopolizing
the market, there’s not much to be done
about it, but price increases are definitely
impacting sales.” Farbstein confides that
even made-to-measure, the fastest growing
segment of his clothing business, has
somewhat slowed, with flat sales this fall/
winter compared to six to seven percent
increases this past spring. That said, he’s
had considerable success with his new
Zegna shops and, at the other end of the
spectrum, opening price made-to-measure
from Amsterdam-based Munro, giving
Millennials their first taste of customization.
Also successful with his foray into entrylevel
made-to-measure, Scott Shapiro from
Syd Jerome Chicago sells Munro MTM
suits at about $1,000 (2/$1,995) while still
doing most of his business in luxury brands.
(His average suit ticket is $2,400; clients
spend up to $6,000 for Brioni.) “What
drives our clothing business is luxury,
inventory and slimmer models. Our guys
are noticing their suits look dated—coats
too long, pants too baggy—so they’re
shopping for something slimmer. We’ve
found that younger guys like custom, which
is why we brought in Munro. Sometimes it’s
about fit: We’ve got workout guys with a 44
chest, 30-inch waist and big biceps (which,
if they buy off the rack, ends up costing me
$400 worth of tailoring that I can’t charge
them for…). But often, the appeal of madeto-measure
with young guys is not the fit
but the touchscreen, allowing customers
to personalize lapels, buttons, linings and
more. Munro offers half-canvas, full-canvas
and bespoke, made in China or Italy.
They’ve done a good job!”
“The last round was a double whammy: Increased wool prices
from Australia (the only source for merino) plus weakness in
the dollar meant increases of 20-25 percent in a year!”
—Mickey Solomon, HMS/Gladson
According to Justin MacInerney at
Gladson, growth in made-to-measure is
also driven by limited model selection in
off-the-rack offerings. “If you want DB
models, three-piece suits or formalwear,
you won’t easily find it off-the-rack. That’s
why we’re undertaking a crusade to educate
consumers to try something different. Even
Men’s Wearhouse consumers are showing a
growing appetite for customization.”
Indeed. Men’s Wearhouse now offers
made-to-measure in both their Joseph
Abboud label ($895 and up for Abboud’s
canvas make, U.S. production, Italian piece
42

Suit by
BRUNELLO
CUCINELLI.
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
43

TAILORED CLOTHING
“Price increases are definitely impacting sales.” —Jeff Farbstein, Harry Rosen
goods; $395 and up for JOE, now with a oneweek
delivery option) and more recently in
their Kenneth Cole Awearness brand, crafted
in their exclusive temperature-regulating
fabric ($795 retail and up with a contribution
to war veterans with every suit purchase).
According to Tailored Brands, MTM is
clearly the fastest-growing component of their
business, with a good 20 percent geared to
wedding parties. Remarkably, almost a third
of Men’s Wearhouse’s customer base is now
Millennials.
BOLD MOVES BY
MANUFACTURERS
At the wholesale level, clothing makers
are doing what they can to jumpstart sales
and compete with a growing number of
direct sellers, both online and in homes and
offices. Says Michael Parker from Lanier,
“We all know at the macro level that men’s
tailored clothing is contracting. However,
we’re experiencing strong retail selling
over last year by bringing in great brands
at a great value.” At Paisley & Gray, Vince
Marrone says formalwear and fashion
separates remain top sellers; going forward,
they’re adding premium wool and limited
edition product to the roster. “What’s
needed is fun and excitement; our mission
is to create the unexpected.”
Notes John Tighe at Peerless, “Guys want
more performance in their clothing: stretch,
antimicrobial, stain-resistance. So we’re using
blends and/or natural stretch fibers in every
tier of the business even better. Other recent
initiatives include expanding our brand
portfolio (Hilfiger, Robert Graham), the full
takeover and update of Hart Schaffner Marx,
and the expansion of Tallia and TailoRed.
We’re also growing our replenishment
programs, offering state-of-the-art
analytics and increased capacity
in our Vermont warehouse.
Peerless has always excelled
in sourcing: As the world
continues to change—
tariffs, wage
increases, raw
material
prices—we’ve
become very
nimble and
disciplined in
our product
development
and
production.”
David
Schuster,
VP at Paul
Betenly, details
recent changes
that include:
ramping up
in-stock offerings,
adding more
casual, garmentwashed
items,
adding salespeople
to the team and
introducing full
lifestyle collections
for their Weekender
and Traveler series.
“By increasing our
in-stock position,”
says Schuster, “we can
grow our customer
base. Specialty store
merchants today
want to partner with
their vendors; our
investment in in-stock
“We’re using blends and/or natural stretch fibers
in every tier of the business even better.”
—John Tighe, Peerless
fashion reflects our commitment to
these partnerships.”
Also a believer in partnerships,
Geoff Schneiderman says Eleventy
is working with their upscale specialty
store accounts to open modern Eleventy
shop-in-shops or, in some cases,
adjacent stores. “We’ve done four
so far, and plan 10 to 20 more
in the next two years.” The
company is maintaining its
focus on sportcoats (about
40 percent of the mix); their
best-selling suede-trim knit
sportcoat still retails for $595,
a ticket that hasn’t changed
in the three years they’ve
been in business. The brand
is also reconfiguring its sizing
for U.S. customers. Admits
Schneiderman, “We go up to
a size 50 jacket and a 40 waist
pant but these sizes are rarely in
stock; we’re working to fix that!”
At Corneliani, style director
Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte
is honest about current
challenges. “I think brands
will become increasingly
powerless in terms of
influencing the way
people dress, and tailored
clothing is for sure the
most difficult category
to revitalize. For the
FW19 collection, we’ve
worked to lighten
our garments using
exclusive fabrics. We’re
focused on street-tailoring,
using different fabric technologies
for performance and comfort.
Our main missions are ‘service’
and ‘experience.’ Our new digital
platform and sales training
programs were launched last
year, our new store concept was
presented in Rome in July, and
44

new partnerships will create the ultimate
retail experience in key markets.”
Arnold Silverstone, creative director for
Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman, speaks
to the many ways his brands are evolving:
more focus on custom (including this year’s
launch of SID, Samuelsohn’s interactive
design technology); more categories and
diverse product offerings; a stronger focus
on digital (including marketing, design, and
storytelling to communicate sustainability,
social causes and corporate responsibility);
better flexibility in operations for faster turn
and service; and much research into new
technologies in everything from customer
touch points to fabrics to production.
“We want to differentiate ourselves as the
leader in value-priced luxury clothing,” he
concludes.
But are any of these moves enough
to inspire purchasing by customers who
no longer wear suits that often? Sums up
Tramonte at Corneliani: “Tailored clothing
will not disappear; it’s just a matter of how
it will evolve and how good we’ll be at
attracting a new consumer. What’s needed:
new fabrics (like jersey and technical),
comfortable shapes, and lots of storytelling to
communicate that wearing a suit is COOL!”
Although most U.S. retailers are still
fully invested in the slim suit models they’ve
been selling for the past several years,
designer Joseph Abboud suggests it’s time
to aggressively promote something new.
“Suits can’t get any shorter or skinnier!” he
observes. “To me, the shrunken suit looks
dated; it’s been post-peak for a while now
and guys popping out of their suits look
silly and uncomfortable. I believe in pleats,
in a little more fullness and flow but still
following a man’s body shape (and always in
classic menswear fabrics). In other words,
suits should be fluid but not the exaggerated
gender-fluid styles certain fashion runways
are promoting. I worry that these runway
designers are losing some brain cells; I don’t
think too many men are clamoring to dress
like women.…”
On left: Suit by
COLE HAAN.
Right: Coat and
sportcoat
by TALLIA
MR’s Top Tips to Increase Profits in Tailored Clothing
■ Invest in replenishment programs, especially for basics. Most vendors now offer them; it’s the best way to keep
inventory low and dollars open for fresh fashion.
■ Highlight one or two new fashion messages each season, in store and online. For fall 19, this could be DB’s,
performance fabrics, knit sportcoats. Don’t choose what everyone else is showing, rather what you truly love.
■ Integrate tailored pieces with sportswear wherever possible to communicate a modern way to dress.
■ Hire enthusiastic sellers, pay them well and give them a generous clothing allowance to wear the newest looks.
After all, these will be your ambassadors, in and out of the store.
■ Consider a focus on formalwear. Nothing brings up the average sale like wedding parties.
■ Train your sellers to be storytellers, to communicate the magic of each special brand.
■ Increase your penetration of MTM. Young guys are buying into the customization trend and young guys are your future.
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
45

ROUNDUP
REINVENTION
GETS PERSONAL
Menswear execs reveal how they’re changing their businesses,
and their lives, for 2019 and beyond.
Tom Kalenderian,
Barneys
“2019 will bring more
opportunities for us
to modernize the
business and focus on
what’s important to
the next generation
of consumers. As a
manager of an exciting
team of young, bright
stars of the future, I
see this equally as a
great time to get to
know them better and
understand what’s
important to them and
how I can best mentor
them with positive and
uplifting motivation.”
Kent Gushner,
Boyds Philadelphia
“This question is
coming to me one year
too late as we’ve just
finished reinventing
the store in terms of
construction, layout
and merchandising.
Therefore, I’d have to
say that 2019 will be
dedicated to ironing
out the wrinkles of
our new store and
continuing to focus on
modernizing, aligning
both the culture and the
organizational structure
with our new vision. As
for reinventing my life,
fortunately I don’t need
to: I’m happy with, and
grateful for, the life I
have.”
Lizette Chin,
UBM Fashion
“For me it’s not
about reinvention
and more about
evolving. Personally:
I’m trying to live my life
according to my favorite
meditation app, CALM:
‘May you be happy; may
you be healthy; may you
be safe; may you be at
peace.…’ Professionally:
My goal is to bring a
sense of community, fun
and commerce back to
our business. We need
it!”
Tom Ott,
Saks Off 5th
“I’m a runner and
sometimes think there’s
overlap between my
2019 goals for the Saks
Off 5th business and
my personal goals: to
push forward and reach
new milestones. It’s an
exciting time for Saks
Off 5th and the retail
market as a whole: The
challenge isn’t so much
reinvention, but rather
how we stay competitive
with more fashion
and trend coupled
with exceptional
value in key product
categories. In 2019,
Saks OFF 5TH will
launch new designers
and collaborations; I’m
truly excited to run with
them.”
Jeff Farbstein,
Harry Rosen
“We’re getting really
serious about the kind of
internet experience we
offer our customers on
our site. We can’t invest
much more in our stores
because we’ve renovated
them all already so all
money is now going
into our website. So
watch out! Our client
engagement online will
soon be comparable to
in-store.… As for my
personal mission: It’s to
do more hanging out
with young people. And
to perhaps read a book
from cover to cover,
something I haven’t
done in about 52 years.”
46

Dan Leppo,
EVP Menswear,
Bloomingdale’s
“Bloomingdale’s is
constantly reinventing
our business: Just when
you think you know
everything about us, we
change the whole store!
What I’m most excited
about are some great
new footwear brands
like Golden Goose; our
new ‘Wardrobe’ concept
featuring product from
K. Red, Moorer and
Altea; as well as the
exclusive launch of a
private label sportswear
brand. On a personal
level, I’m reinventing
myself as a 6-foot-tall 40
long. Maybe soft spoken
and patient while I’m
at it.…”
Arnold Silverstone,
Samuelsohn/Hickey
Freeman
“My focus has always
been my career and
family. In this next
chapter, I want to
give back to society
in appreciation of all
the blessings I’ve been
given. I’ve recently
gotten involved (both
financially and timewise)
with a few medical
research projects that
will hopefully have a
meaningful impact on
future lives. To witness
what some of these
scientists are doing is
really incredible.
I hope to find other
ways to inspire, teach
and give back in the
coming years, all while
continuing to search
for that next hot item,
special fabric or new
menswear concept.”
Raffi Shaya, Raffi
“From a business
perspective, we’re always
reinventing: that’s our
mantra. Since I’m now
closer to 100 than to
50, I try to enjoy every
day and spread positive
energy to others. My
holiday gift to MR
readers is this tip: Every
morning, take a very hot
shower followed by two
minutes of a very cold
shower. It’s an electric
shock, a wake-up call.
The increased blood
circulation will stimulate
your brain and keep
you young and happy
forever.”
George and Oscar
Feldenkreis,
Perry Ellis
International
George: “Having just
taken our company
private, we look forward
to reinventing the
business by investing
for long-term growth.
I also look forward to
hiring a few talented
top-level executives so
I can spend more time
writing my book and
traveling.”
Oscar: “After 13 very
stressful months, I look
forward to watching
ESPN without switching
channels to check stock
prices.”
Allison Basile,
Age of Wisdom
“Working in fashion,
we’re constantly
challenged to reinvent
ourselves. In 2019, I
will let go of the fear
of stepping outside
the lines when it
comes to design. I will
let emotions dictate
rationality when being
creative. I will adapt to
the motto of being ‘all
in’ as I approach the
backside of life. We’re
in the digital age where
time moves much
faster. Ideas need to
be expressed as they
evolve with less worry
about being perfect.
This year, personally and
professionally, will be all
about taking risks and
making bolder, more
vulnerable statements.”
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
47

ROUNDUP
Richard Binder,
Mavi/34 Heritage
“Reinvention is the
perfect word for 2019.
We’re rolling out a
complete rebrand
touching all aspects of
34 Heritage; even our
showroom is getting a
makeover. As for me,
maybe I’ll actually get
some more sleep?!
#worklifebalance”
Jim Foley,
Woodbury Mens Shop
“Travel is the key to
reinvention. Getting
out of the store allows
me to experience new
places and cross paths
with new people. This
inspires me to focus
back on our product,
our technology and our
great team. Whether it’s
a trip to San Francisco,
Copenhagen, Fire Island
or Venice, I’m energized
when I get back home.”
Ken Giddon,
Rothmans
“In terms of business
reinvention, we’re giving
more responsibility
in 2019 to our female
colleagues. They just do
a better job! Personally,
I’m going to switch to
rooting for the Yankees;
all this Red Sox winning
is getting boring.
#never”
Larry Stemerman,
TailorByrd
“For TailorByrd,
we’re staying bright
and happy with new
cheerful prints. We’re
also expanding our
international sales
for 2019, which is my
mission both personally
and professionally.”
Gina Zangrillo,
Darien Sport Shop
“Our mission is to
surprise and delight
our customers with a
curated assortment of
the latest trends and
new brands.”
Erin Hawker,
agentry pr nyc
“In 2019, I hope to find
the time to take off my
hat!”
Geoff Schneiderman,
Eleventy
“I’m working hard
at improving the
connection between
our brand and better
independent stores.
This starts with the fact
that we don’t sell online
in North America: our
website asks customers
for a zip code so we
can direct them to the
nearest specialty store.
We never take this
business for granted and
truly appreciate every
order.”
Scott Ruerup,
Peter Millar
“We are fully immersed
in leading our
customers towards an
ever-evolving sense
of style by breaking
down perennial ideas
of apparel, reimagining
their purpose and
providing unique
value to one’s lifestyle
aspirations. As for
reinventing my life? It
seems my kids are doing
that for me.”
Rick and Jim Penn,
Puritan Cape Cod
“2019 marks our
centennial year so
we’re getting out of
our comfort zone.
Along with a new
rebranding campaign
and the completion of
a three-year renovation
of our Hyannis
flagship store, we’re
continually looking for
new opportunities to
stay relevant with our
customers and deliver
a memorable shopping
experience.”
Bruce Pask,
Bergdorf Goodman
“For me, reinvention
means continuing
on a path that values
expansive thinking and
boundless curiosity,
then following where
that leads.”
48

INTRODUCING THE
new
-mag.com
MR IS THE INDUSTRY’S HUB FOR
THE LATEST BREAKING MENSWEAR
NEWS AND FASHION TRENDS
While you are there, sign up for our
daily e-newsletter and your magazine subscription.
Follow us on social media at @
magonline

MARKETING
MARKETING
MATTERS
Social media tips for retailers in 2019. By Laurie Schechter
Unless you inhabit a planet other than
Earth, you know the enormous power
that social media wields in influence and
opinion. What should retailers be doing in
2019 to benefit?
Social media is a potent and
multifaceted tool to grow brand awareness
and sales. Unfortunately, there’s no silver
bullet or magic wand, no universal onesize-fits-all
handbook. There are, however,
general guidelines that can optimize your
foray into social media, whatever your level
of expertise. And trends to note for 2019.
GENERAL
GUIDELINES
BRAND IDENTITY: Step one is to pinpoint the
DNA of your brand or store, preferably in
one sentence. What is your mission? What
distinguishes you from your competition?
What do you do best?
BUYER PERSONA: Who is your target
customer? Best to define your audience
by age, gender, income, career, geographic
location. Are they homeowners, have kids?
What problems do they want solved and
most importantly, who are the top-paying,
most loyal members? Facebook’s Audience
Insights is an excellent tool for profiling
your brand audience.
ENGAGEMENT: While building the bottom line
is the ultimate goal, social media is, after all,
about networking. Building relationships and
brand footprint, establishing trust and brand
loyalty, and genuinely engaging with your
customer will ultimately lead to increased
sales. Valuable relationships thrive on quality
engagement. Do not buy likes, followers, an
audience. Do. Not. Ever. In fact, platforms
such as Instagram are actively closing out
these avenues altogether.
PLAN: The one constant in all retailing is
the known calendar—fixed events such
as holidays and annual sales. Sketch out a
yearly calendar that maps all events and
corresponding content. Pencil in the what,
where (which platform) and when (how
often you plan to post). Planning provides a
framework you can fill in with parties, flash
sales, charity initiatives, product launches,
etc. Establish a planning schedule at least
three months out.
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGEMENT TOOLS: These tools
are useful to schedule posts in advance,
engage on multiple platforms, follow and
unfollow, get detailed performance reports,
find influencers, etc. Regardless of the size
of your organization and whether or not
you have a dedicated marketing/social
media team, the ability to bring social
media responsibilities together into one
management system is invaluable. Free and
paid options are available from reputable
providers including Buffer, Hootsuite,
Sprout Social, Agorapulse, Sendible,
eClincher, Social Pilot, CoSchedule, Edgar,
Post Planner and Later.
MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE: There’s no reason
to be clueless as to what your audience
is loving and hating, liking and sharing,
clicking on and ignoring. Businesses have
analytical tools available everywhere—use
them to inform your strategy, content
creation and posting schedules.
SOCIAL MEDIA
TRENDS FOR 2019
REESTABLISHING TRUST: 2018 was a damaging
year for trust on social media. Fake
news, fake followers, data breaches came
together to erode social media’s credibility.
According to Edelman, “Sixty percent
of people no longer trust social media
companies.” Intimate and more personal
human interactions are trending over
celebrity influencers and media. Engaging
meaningfully with a passionate but smaller
community sharing valuable insights
holds more significant value. Twitter chats,
Facebook Groups (public, private and
secret), live Q&As and Facebook Live are
all useful methods. Live video particularly
50

gives a brand more opportunity to engage
an audience and build trust and loyalty.
Facebook’s enabling allows Facebook
Pages to join Groups (which is now in
beta), while a new feature, Watch Party—
which lets Facebook Groups users view,
comment and react to videos together—
reaffirms the company’s increased focus
on Groups and the power of video. Use
an easy-to-remember branded hashtag
to engage a focused following around a
substantive subject. Enlist UGC (usergenerated
content) to post and share using
that hashtag and make your audience an
engaged partner. Be transparent regarding
data collection and sponsored content.
Respond in a timely matter to customer
interactions, address problems, explain
manufacturing and pricing, own up to
mistakes.
STORYTELLING: Stories, Snapchat’s invention
of vertical, disappearing videos, is now
growing 15 times faster than feed-based
sharing. Facebook’s chief product officer
Chris Cox predicts Stories will soon
outpace feeds within the next year as the
predominant sharing method among
friends. The daily active users stats are
impressive. TechCrunch reports 150M
on Facebook Stories, 300M on Instagram
Stories, 450M on WhatsApp Status, 70M
on Facebook Messenger Stories and 191M
on Snapchat. That’s more than 1 billion
combined. The migration from text-based,
desktop-designed platforms to mobileonly
is important, allowing users to share
experiences of the moment and on the fly.
Notably, it seems that raw and real Stories
play better. Hootsuite estimates four out of
five major brands are currently on Stories.
Experiment with them, use them to create
how-tos, take your audience behind-thescenes,
or serve them with Q&As. Try
using AR (augmented reality), GIFs and
GIF stickers with the Stories cameras on
Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat. Not
happy with a Story disappearing in 24
hours? Use Instagram Highlights to keep
select Stories for as long as you want. Be
an early adopter of Stories on Facebook
since they haven’t yet caught on as heavily
there and Facebook plans a significant
investment including Stories Ads. Currently
being tested: a full rollout of 5- to 15-second
video ads.
MICROINFLUENCERS: The high cost and
ubiquity of Influencers with a capital “I”
(along with their impeded trust factor) has
made micro-influencers, those with 10,000
or fewer followers, the new favorites. They
come across as more honest and authentic
(another important buzzword) with more
engaged followings and, according to Social
Media Today, “are often considered experts
in their niche.” They can have a broad reach
or be local, depending on your business.
There’s an opportunity as well to make
them your exclusive brand ambassadors
assuming they’re independent of other
brand contracts.
MESSAGING AND CHATBOTS: WhatsApp,
Facebook Messenger, WeChat, QQ and
Skype combined boast nearly 5 billion
monthly active users, more than all the
traditional social networks worldwide.
Users are shifting from public to private
spaces, spending more time on messaging
than on sharing news on social. A
2018 Facebook survey of 8,000 people
found direct messaging with a company
increased a respondent’s confidence about
a brand. Messaging provides high-value
conversations. WhatsApp’s release of
its business API in August 2018 allows
businesses to respond to customers for free
within 24 hours. Build your own bot to
answer simple questions, link to your FAQs
page or allow for immediate conversation
with your customer to close a sale. Direct
messaging on Twitter or on Facebook
Messenger is an effective customer service
vehicle and another avenue for social media
campaign promotions.
There’s much more, of course, so stay
tuned to Marketing Matters in future issues
of MR magazine.
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
51

FOOTWEAR
FANCY
FOOTWORK
As sneakers continue to be
shaped by streetwear and
athletic influences, more retro
styles —like the hi-top —are
seeing a resurgence. As for
dress shoes, the double-monk
boot slip-on loafers are
having a moment.
By Stephen Garner
Clockwise from top right:
MAGNANNI; TO BOOT; BRUNO
MAGLI; NOAH WAXMAN
52

Clockwise from top right:
DIOR MEN’S; FILLING PIECES;
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN;
BALENCIAGA
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
53

ACCESSORIES
MOST WANTED
We’ve scoured the market for some of the best and most
unique accessories that will bring newness to your store.
Check out our guide for the hottest sunglasses, leather
goods, grooming products and ties. By Stephen Garner
Clockwise from top
right: VERSACE; GIORGIO
ARMANI; SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO; PERSOL;
CALVIN KLEIN
205W39NYC
54

R
Wood Underwear®
Underwear, Undershirts &
Lounge Wear for Men
woodunderwear.com
310.339.4355
info@woodunderwear.com
also on NuOrder.com
Made in Italy
LATEST STYLES WILL BE FEATURED AT THE LAS VEGAS SHOE SHOW FN PLATFORM AND THE CHICAGO COLLECTIVE IN FEB 2019
toscanausa.com | customercare@toscanausa.com | 1.718.457.8900

ACCESSORIES
Clockwise from top right: GREY NEW YORK GREY NEW ENGLAND bucket bag;
DUNHILL pouch; ETTINGER portfolio; TROUBADOUR weekender; TORINO belt;
MARK CROSS messenger bag; TRAFALGAR belt; DUCHAMP belt; CLOSED
notebook; DUCHAMP wallet
56

23K Gold Concorde with Blue Sky Flash Mirror SkyTec Lite Lens - CR169
Visit us on online. #MyRandolphs
WWW.RANDOLPHUSA.COM
MADE FOR THOSE WHO
SEE THINGS DIFFERENTLY.

ACCESSORIES
Left to right: DIPTYQUE candle; BEEKMAN 1802 milk peel;
MOLTON BROWN shower gel; BÁLLA body powder; HIMS
shampoo; POLISHED BY DR. LANCER moisturizer; SATURDAYS
NYC body soap. Front: SATURDAYS NYC shaving cream;
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE cologne
58

DON’T MISS AN ISSUE—
SUBSCRIBE TODAY AT
WWW.MR-MAG.COM/
SUBSCRIBE
Since 1990, retailers, designers,
menswear execs and fashion insiders
have turned to MR Magazine for
accurate information, insightful analysis,
innovative ideas and trend spotting, as
well as an inside look at the people who
drive the menswear business.
SUBSCRIBE
MR (USPS 7885) Published 4 times/year by Wainscot Media, 110
Summit Ave., Montvale, NJ 07645. Shae Marcus, Publisher; Karen
Alberg Grossman, Editor. Subscription Price: $34.00 US. Filing
Date: November 1, 2018; Issue Date for Circulation Data: December
2018. Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months:
Total # of copies: 17,477; Outside County paid/requested mail
subscriptions: 0; In- County paid/requested mail subscriptions:
11,116; Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter
sales, and other paid or requested distribution outside USPS: 0;
Requested copies distributed by other mail classes through the
USPS: 0. Total paid and/or requested circulation: 11,116; Outside
County nonrequested copies: 0; In-County nonrequested copies: 0;
Nonrequested copies distributed through the USPS by other classes
of mail: 0; Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 6,009.
Total nonrequested distribution: 6,009; Total distribution: 17,125;
Copies not distributed: 352; Total: 17,477; Percent paid and/ or
requested circulation: 64.9%; No. Copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date: Total # of copies: 15,000; Outside County
paid/requested mail subscriptions: 0; In-County paid/requested
mail subscriptions: 9,917; Sales through dealers and carriers, street
vendors, counter sales, and other paid or requested distribution
outside USPS: 0; Requested copies distributed by other mail classes
through the USPS: 0. Total paid and/or requested circulation: 9,917;
Outside County nonrequested copies: 0; In- County nonrequested
copies: 0; Nonrequested copies distributed through the USPS by
other classes of mail: 0; Nonrequested copies distributed outside
the mail: 4,925. Total nonrequested distribution: 4,925; Total
distribution: 14,842; Copies not distributed: 158 Total: 15,000;
Percent paid and/or requested circulation: 66.8%.
JOIN OUR ONLINE COMMUNITY!
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK
@MRMAGONLINE
SEE OUR PHOTOS ON INSTAGRAM
@MRMAGONLINE

ACCESSORIES
Left to right: TASSO
ELBA; RYAN SEACREST
DISTINCTION; TASSO
ELBA; THE TIE BAR.
Lapel flowers by
FLEUR’D PINS
60

CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR, ACCESSORIES
AND FOOTWEAR FOR MEN
CLASSIC TO LIFESTYLE BETTER MENSWEAR

TRETORN
EDEN PARK
SOL
ANGELES
MOORE & GILES
A BOUT

BRANDS
An A-to-Z listing of emerging design talent,
sartorial influences, and eclectic points of
view for menswear.
With each new NY Men’s comes an influx of emerging design talent,
sartorial influences, and eclectic points of view for menswear. From
elevated contemporary and luxury brands to the latest trend-driven
fashion and denim, NY Men’s is an opportunity to access new apparel,
accessories and footwear brands in one curated marketplace.
This January marks the launch of N:OW at PROJECT in New York, a
progressive platform for culturally relevant brands. The show will also
emphasize MRKET, with newly expanded international pavilions like
Made in Italy and BRITS IN NEW YORK. Plus, January’s show will offer
brands and buyers the opportunity to connect and network with digital
tastemakers in the menswear space.
7 for all Mankind
Abbott NYC
Ace & Everett
Age of Wisdom
Alan Paine Knitwear
Alashan Cashmere
Alchemy Equipment
Alden
Alfred Sargent
Allsize Company AS
Amanda Christensen/
Wigens Hat Co.
Amedeo Ferrante SRL
Andrea Bossi/Italwear
Arcuri Ties
Arnau Shirtmaker
Arugaw
Aston Leather
Atlanta Mocassin
Atomic Mission Gear
Autumn Cashmere
Baade II
Bagutta
Barbour
Barker Shoes
Baroni
Bed Stu
Bellroy
Belts + di Piazza Stefano
Belvedere
Benson
Bentley Cravats Corp
Berragamo / Carrucci
Bertigo USA
Berwich
Bespoke Factory
Bills Khakis
Blank NYC
Blujacket
BMW Studio
BOCA MMXII
Bogner
Borsalino
Brackish
Brax Feel Good
Bresciani 1970
Calabrese 1924
Carmina Shoemaker
Cashmere Outfitters
Chelsey Imports
Christopher Lena
Chrysalis
City Sport Caps
Coat of Arms
Codis Maya
Confezioni Gallia SRL
Conhpol
Corrente
Dalmine 1952
Daniello
De Ma Pelle Italia SRL
Dents Heritage
Collection
Derek Rose
Desoto
Di Bello by Fontani
Dion Neckwear
DL1961 Premium Denim
Dolcepunta
Duno
EDEN PARK
Edward Armah
Edward Green
Emanuel Berg
Empire Clothing
Enrico Mandelli
En-Soi/Perre
ES
Ettinger
Eyebobs

WOLF & SHEPHERD

BRANDS
An A-to-Z listing of emerging design talent,
sartorial influences, and eclectic points of
view for menswear. (cont. from previous spread)
Fidelity Denim
Lacuna Homme
Fisher + Baker
Ledbury
Fliteless
Left Coast Tee
Fox Umbrellas
Lief Horsens
Foxy Lab
Linksoul
Frame
Liverpool
Fray
Loake Shoemakers
FTC Cashmere
Loft604
Fundamental Coast
Lords of Harlech
Gilded Age
Luerown
Gionfriddo International
M. Singer
g-lab Gmbh
Maglificio Mora SAS
Good Man Brand
Majestic International
Goorin Bros.
Marcello Sport
Grayers
Maurizi S.R.L.
Grenfell
Mavi
Gruppo Bravo
Mayser Headwear
Halsey 44
Mey Story
HESTRA
Meyer-MMX
SCHNEIDERS
SALZBURG
HAILLEY H
Hickey Freeman Co.
HiSO
Holston + Hayes
Hommard
Huffer
Hush Puppies
iDesign
Ingram
Inverni
Italian Trade Commission
J & M Est. 1850
JACHS NY
Jan Leslie
Jimmy Sales
John Smedley Limited
Johnston & Murphy
Johnstons of Elgin
Joseph Cheaney & Sons
Judger
Kenneth Cole
Productions
Kinross
Missani Le Collezioni/
BNR Leather
Mitchell Evan
Mizzen + Main
Mododoc
Moore & Giles
Myths
Naadam
Nipal SRL
Norwegian Wool
Opinion Privé
Original Paperbacks
Oxford Lads
P448
Pacific Silk
PAIGE
Pair of Thieves
Palazzo Sartoriale
Pantherella &
Scott Nichol
Paolo Albizzati
Paolo Vitale di
F.lli Forleo Srl

ROTHCO
Coming off of a successful launch in Las Vegas, N:OW
at PROJECT is a creative environment built for fashion
and culture enthusiasts. This incubator for inspiration
will highlight culturally relevant brands that drive fashion
forward, while remaining commercially viable.
N:OW will feature fashion forums and trend presentations
curated by WGSN, brand installations, food/beverage,
daily happenings and exclusive events.
For the complete schedule, please visit: ubmfashion.com

BRANDS
An A-to-Z listing of emerging design talent,
sartorial influences, and eclectic points of
view for menswear. (cont. from previous spread)
Paraboot
Parajumpers
Patrick Assaraf
Pattern SRL
Paul Betenly/Aristo
Peerless Clothing
Peter Barton
PHIL PETTER
Psycho Bunny
Raffi
Raga Man
Rails
Raleigh Denim Workshop
Ranger Station
Rapport London
Remy Leather
Retro Brand
RHE HatCo
Rhone
Richard Harris
Robert Talbott Footwear
Robert Zur
Rock Revival
Ross Graison
Rudsak Collection
S.M.N
Saint Andrews SPA
Santo Stefano
Di Italo Ferretti
Schneiders Salzburg
Seaward & Stearn
London
SEM SRL
Sepol
Serge Blanco
Sigotto
Silver Star
Silvio Fiorello
Sock It to Me
Sol Angeles
Southwick Clothes
STANTT
Stitch Note
Stolen Riches
Stone Rose
Strapped Los Angeles
Sutoris snc
Swet Tailor
SWISH & SWANK
T&T Tardia
Textile Project SRL
Tallia Orange
Tateossian
Tretorn
The British
Apparel Collection
The People Vs.
Tiglio
Tiki SRL
Torras Of Spain
Trands USA
Trask
Tretorn
Troubadour Goods
True Grit
Trybus Group
Tyler Boe
UGG
Ugo Vasare
Velvet by Graham
& Spencer
Villa Delmitia
Vince
Viyella
W. Kleinberg
Wilde Vertigga
Wolf & Shepherd
Wool & Co.
Yongzheng Tailor
Shop U.S.A.
Listing as of 12/12/18.
For an up-to-date listing,
visit ubmfashion.com.

JANUARY 20-22, 2019 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC
EVENTS & HAPPENINGS
SHOW HOURS
Sunday: 9-6 | Monday: 9-6 | Tuesday: 9-4
MRKET CLUBROOM
MRKET, Level 1, Hall 1A
MRKET Clubroom, Booth #845
A place to congregate outside the booth hosted by MR
Magazine, MRKET Clubroom is our custom experience
for the modern gentleman paying homage to the
legacy of the menswear community.
MRKET AMBASSADORS
MRKET, Level 1, Hall 1A
MRKET Photo Studio, Booth #857
Head over to the photo studio at MRKET Clubroom
and engage with some of menswear’s most dapper
enthusiasts as they style looks and create content
featuring the brands from the show floor.
Featured Ambassadors include:
Adam Gonon | adamgonon.com | @adamgonon
Men’s Style Pro | mensstylepro.com | @mensstylepro
The Cuff | thecuff.co | @thecuff.co
+ more
NEIGHBORHOODS
N:OW FORUMS
PROJECT, Level 1, Hall 1B,
N:OW Stage, Booth #108
Curated by WGSN, N:OW Forums set the stage for
what’s new, now and next in men’s fashion through
presentations and panel discussions.
COOL HUNTING X PROJECT
PROJECT, Level 1, Hall 1B
COOL HUNTING Space, Booth #403
PROJECT has teamed up with award-winning
publication COOL HUNTING to help you shop and
have a little fun along the way. The Cool Hunt is our
first-ever scavenger hunt designed to connect, make
discoveries, collect prizes, and more.
www.coolhunting.com | @coolhunting
THE COOL HUNT
PROJECT, Level 1, Hall 1B
COOL HUNTING Space, Booth #403
The Cool Hunt is on. Join us in a scavenger hunt for
brand discovery on the PROJECT floor. Head to the
COOL HUNTING space to pick up the curated map,
uncover helpful hints and learn how to mark down
your findings as you shop.
Elevated Contemporary Designer Collections
Contemporary Footwear for Men
A Curated Selection of Apparel,
Accessories, Home Goods and Apothecary
Research, Discover and Connect
with French Menswear Brands
Premium Denim for Men
A Community that Builds Together
and Drives What’s Next in Fashion
British Menswear Featuring Heritage
and Sartorial Apparel and Accessories
The Finest in Italian Apparel, Footwear and Accessories

Don’t just optimize your website.
Optimize your entire online presence
with BigFish.
bigfish
DIGITAL MARKETING
FOR LOCAL PONDS
BigFish is an integrated, digital local marketing system involving
more than 300 steps. We create videos for your business. We write
and publish articles about you online. We do reputation marketing
of your business. And we optimize everything for Google—all for
a price that’s less than many businesses pay for traditional SEO.
If you need more traffic to your website and more calls and visits
to your store or office, contact Shae Marcus about BigFish,
(856) 797-2227, shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com

FASHION
WEEKEND
ESCAPE
Whether you’re in the city
or at a bed-and-breakfast
just outside of town, these
looks reflect a modern,
relaxed style.
As rules for dressing continue to morph in
the menswear world, more and more athleticinfluenced
pieces have crept into our daily
wardrobes. Some may call it “streetwear,” but
this category is “everyday wear.” Now is the time
to be adventurous in your merchandise mix.
Escape from the norm and try something new.
By Stephen Garner
Photography by Zach Alston
Grooming by Chih Jen Hsueh
Fashion Assistant: Shane Reynolds
70

BOSS
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
71

FASHION
On Left: VERSACE;
On Right: FENDI
72

MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
73

FASHION
74

On Left: Jacket, Pants by
BRAND BLACK; Denim Jacket
by LEVI’S; Sneakers by FENDI
On Right: Jacket, Pants and
Sneakers by BRAND BLACK;
Shirt by MARNI
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
75

FASHION
On Left:Shirt and Pants
by NECESSITY SENSE;
Sneakers by MONCLER
On Right: Cardigan, Shirt,
and Trousers by NECESSITY
SENSE; Sweater by SUNSPEL;
Sneakers by GOLDEN GOOSE
76

MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
77

FASHION
78

On Left: Jacket and Trousers
by TODD SNYDER; Shirt by
NECESSITY SENSE; Sneakers
by GOLDEN GOOSE
On Right: Jacket by
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
COUTURE; Polo by ROWING
BLAZERS
MR MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019
79

FAMILY MATTERS
SEA CHANGE
A family legacy gone; a relationship reinvented. By Nick Hilton
You never want to tell anybody you’re
hearing “voices.” They’ll think you’re
exaggerating. Lying. Or nuts. But that’s what
happened.
Late one afternoon I saw my father
walking out on Sea Island beach. A steady,
determined gait, bent forward slightly.
Rumpled golf hat. Windbreaker. Worsening
macular degeneration and Parkinson’s
disease had not stopped him taking daily
walks, so it wasn’t surprising to see him
heading southward, toward the broad
expanse beyond the villas and the sea wall.
Among sprinting sandpipers, whirling
laughing gulls.
Some things are inexplicable. I got up
from where I sat, and walking at first, then,
remembering how fast he walked—a pace
to leave you behind—I jogged, then ran. To
catch up. Things with my father were, well,
fraught. I was not the Choate-Princeton-
Harvard Law son he’d been expecting; his
disapproval haunted me. Now there hung
between us an unapproachable subject:
the demise of our four-generation-old
manufacturing business. The disappearance
of a family legacy. On my watch.
Nevertheless I ran. Resenting the pace
he kept, a metaphor for how he lived.
Oblivious. Alone. As I came up behind him
I heard a voice. A voice? Come on. I’d made
futile attempts to make peace, to disentangle
a web of unconscious complications.
“Don’t,” the voice said. I swear. “Don’t say
anything!”
I didn’t. I came up alongside and he
turned to see me, his neck stiffened by the
Parkinson’s. He smiled. “Oh. Hey there,” he
said. “Hey Dad.”
We walked. The sun was low, a golden
light on the dunes and scrubby brush on the
shore, lighting my father’s 86-year-old face
with a soft flattering glow. We walked in
silence on the flat, dark sand.
He asked, “How’s Kenny Bates doing?
Do you see him?” Bates, a Scottish cloth
agent, sold to Norman early on, then paid
special attention to me, teaching me most
of what I knew about textiles. A bridge
between us. A friend to us both.
“Not so good.” I mentioned Kenny’s
worsening dementia. “Too bad,” Norman
said. Then, “What about Richard Grieco?
Southwick still going?”
We spoke about new trends, old
competitors, customers, suppliers. A
wisecracking, sarcastic humor we shared.
We laughed. No differences of opinion.
Nothing below the surface. No tension.
After a while he said, “Boy, it’s
wonderful that you’re doing so well with
your store. Really amazing. Langrock’s. The
English Shop. All gone. But you’re….”
“Thank you.”
Returning as the sun set I helped him
over the sea wall. I went to find my son;
Norman continued on his solitary way.
When I looked again he was out of sight.
My father died seven years later, at 93.
We never argued again. Not once, about
anything. We were friends. Strange to say
it: friends. Father and son. For five decades
we'd struggled to transform each other into
something neither of us could ever be. We'd
had different values, differing visions of the
future. I wanted him to be a different kind
of father; he would have me be a different
kind of son. Finally, none of it mattered. We
gave up trying to change one another; gave
up trying to change the future.
We had changed our past.
80

Memories are the one gift you give to yourself.
Elevate your stay with an intimate place to belong beyond your hotel room. The Ritz-Carlton Club Level is an
exclusive space with unique amenities and services where guests enjoy fine culinary presentations ideal for
families and business travelers. ritzcarlton.com/resortsofnaples
NAPLES____________
NAPLES GOLF__________
©
2017 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.