Sundowner: Spring/Summer 2019

SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Lone ranging
SOLO TRAVEL IS ON THE RISE BUT THERE’S
NO NEED TO ALWAYS GO IT ALONE
BOTSWANA
NIRVANA
A PARADISE FOR
ANIMAL LOVERS
PLACES
TO GO
2019’S EIGHT HOTTEST
TRAVEL DESTINATIONS
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 3

S/S 2019 £4
A PARADISE FOR
ANIMAL LOVERS
2019’S EIGHT HOTTEST
TRAVEL DESTINATIONS
14
50
72
DEAR TRAVELLER
Happy new year and welcome to the latest issue
of Sundowner. Animals abound in this edition
of the magazine – in the upcoming pages, you’ll
spy species from mighty mountain gorilla to
adorable Adélie penguin.
Experiencing wildlife in its natural habitat is
one of travel’s greatest rewards. As I read reports
such as the WWF’s most recent, which states
that humanity has wiped out 60 per cent of
mammals, birds, fish, and reptiles since 1970,
my desire to conserve our world’s wildlife is
reaffirmed anew.
Every holiday you undertake with us
contributes funds to A&K Philanthropy
and its excellent animal conservation and
local community benefit programmes. It’s a
simple and easy way to help protect animals
including rhino and leopard, and benefit
local communities, while you enrich your life
through experiential holidays.
Wishing you happy (animal sighting-filled)
travels in the year to come.
Founder, Chairman and CEO,
Abercrombie & Kent Group
Follow me on Instagram @geoffrey_kent
Front cover: Exploring a bamboo
forest in Kyoto, Japan
Editor: Alicia Deveney
Deputy editor: Faye Wiltshire
Design: Debbie Edkins & Louise Maggs
Contributors: Ian Belcher, Janet
Brice, Graeme Bull, Ianthe Butt, Katy
Calderwood, Nina Caplan, Nick Curtis,
Jane Dunford, Sacha Harrison, Jan
Masters, Joe Meredith, Penelope Rance,
Amanda Springer, James Treacy, Philippa
Turner, Sue Watts, Charlotte Wells
Sundowner is Abercrombie & Kent’s
magazine, St George’s House,
Ambrose Street, Cheltenham, Glos,
GL50 3LG. Advertising enquiries to:
gbradvertising@abercrombiekent.co.uk
SUNDOWNER SPRING/SUMMER 2019
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Lone ranging
SOLO TRAVEL IS ON THE RISE BUT THERE’S
NO NEED TO ALWAYS GO IT ALONE
BOTSWANA
NIRVANA
PLACES
TO GO
CONTENTS SPRING/SUMMER 2019
4 BUSH TELEGRAPH
All the latest from A&K and the wide world
of travel
6 IN THE KNOW
The most exciting hotel openings
68
8 48 HOURS IN MATERA
A weekend in 2019’s European Capital of
Culture offers ancient culture and fine food
10 THE HOTTEST PLACES
TO TRAVEL IN 2019
A&K’s experts choose the best places to
explore in the year to come
14 DOG DAY AFTERNOON
In Botswana, Sue Watts discovers that every
(wild) dog has its day
18 OPEN FOR BUSINESS
How hurricane-affected Caribbean islands
are bouncing back
20 TIME TO WINE AND DINE
Nina Caplan is driven to delight in Victoria
and South Australia’s vineyards
24 DUE SOUTH
Our top 10 reasons why now is the time to
visit Adelaide and South Australia
28 ALOHA HAWAII
An island by island guide to the US’s 50th state
32 MEET THE GUIDE
Having conquered Africa, the world’s top
safari guide, Garth Hovell, is turning his
attention further afield
34 ANOTHER SIDE OF SPAIN
In search of Iberian idiosyncrasies,
Penelope Rance takes a tour of Andalusia
38 YEE-HAW!
Our favourite five places to play cowboy
40 FAMILY TIES
Keen to bond with her niece, Jane Dunford
heads to Costa Rica to have an adventure
28
42 BEACH BABES
The European boltholes that combine the
advantages of a villa with all the perks of a hotel
44 GRAND DESIGNS
Ianthe Butt details five head-turning hotel
properties that aren’t simply raising the bar –
they’re reinventing it
48 JORDAN’S SOUTHERN STAR
How new flights to Aqaba are opening up
this Middle Eastern country’s Golden Triangle
50 PUMA PURSUITS
Jan Masters ventures into the wilds of
Patagonia in search of elusive big cats
54 PARTY OF ONE
With the support of an escorted tour group,
Japan is the ideal place to fly solo
56 ANIMAL ATTRACTION
An African safari veteran, Nick Curtis is still
blown away by Tanzania’s wildlife
60 ALTERNATIVE INCA TRAILS
Finding the path less-travelled in Peru
62 OUR FAVOURITE VILLAS FOR 2019
40 sumptuous retreats and dream hideouts
66 POLE POSITION
Paying tribute to the first explorers, who
braved the Southern Ocean 200 years ago
68 ACCESS SOUTH-EAST ASIA
How to enjoy VIP hospitality in the region,
with a little help from us
72 THE JOURNEYMEN AND WOMEN
Take a tour through India with our experts
78 A TO Z OF SRI LANKA
Experiences on the teardrop island that span
the alphabet
82 THE WATER’S EDGE
How A&K Philanthropy is helping more than
40,000 people in two countries access clean,
safe drinking water
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 3

HAPPY BIRTHDAY,
A&K AT HARRODS
The A&K boutique at Harrods is
celebrating its 10th birthday this February.
We will be marking the occasion and the
continued partnership between the two
luxury brands with exciting events and an
exclusive offer that’ll be worth waiting for…
Bush
TELEGRAPH
NEWS FROM A&K AND THE WIDE WORLD OF TRAVEL
18 SUMMERS
You have 18 summers with your
children before they’re too cool to want
to travel with their mum and dad. You
want to make every single holiday count
with your kids – summers, half terms,
Christmas breaks. Every. Single. One.
We know that, and get that the key to
successful, safe, and educational family
travel is a sprinkling of sympathetic,
knowledgeable expertise and advice.
Understanding this, A&K is pleased
to announce the appointment of 10
dedicated family specialists, who have
undergone a specialised training
programme. Booking holidays that can
cater to any age just got a whole lot
easier. Amanda Springer, programme
manager, said: “Thanks to both personal
and professional experience, the team
understands the unique requirements
of families, with young children,
families with teenagers, and extended
families, and will recommend tours,
accommodation and experiences
tailored to each family, taking
into account safety requirements,
education, and fun. I’m delighted to
lead this talented team of specialists
who will enhance the A&K family
holiday experience.” To speak to a
family specialist, call 01242 903 401.
AND THE WINNER IS…
A&K was proclaimed ‘Best Luxury Tour
Operator’ for the third time at the annual News
UK Travel Awards. This plaudit is voted for by
the readers of The Times, The Sunday Times and
The Sunday Times Travel Magazine – and we
were pleased and proud to have been people’s
choice yet again. And we’ve had success with
the critics too, winning ‘World’s Leading Luxury
Safari Company’ and ‘Africa’s Leading Luxury
Tour Operator’ for the ninth year in a row at the
World Travel Awards – dubbed ‘the Oscars of
the travel industry’ by The Wall Street Journal.
Here’s to a 10th.
WINNER
BEST LUXURY TOUR OPERATOR
2 0 1 8
Africa's Leading
Luxury Tour Operator
4 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

FLYING HIGH
THE NEW AIR ROUTES & ADDITIONAL SERVICES
THAT WE’RE MOST EXCITED ABOUT
Vietnam on Qatar’s radar
qatar airways has launched direct flights to Da Nang – linking
London to the beautiful coastal city via the hub of Doha. This will
be the third Vietnamese city on the airline’s global network.
Carnival capital is calling
The first low-fare direct flight between London Gatwick and
Brazil could be taking off in spring 2019. norwegian has
announced plans for this new route following the success of its
London to Buenos Aires, Argentina, route, which was launched
earlier this year.
Five new routes per year from Stansted
london stansted is planning to introduce 25 direct new
routes over the next five years. Passengers could soon be flying
nonstop to holiday destinations in the Far East, India, North
America, and the Middle East.
Turkish delight with Istanbul
to Sydney flights
turkish airlines is putting Australia back on its route map, with
the airline’s head confirming plans to launch flights to Sydney next
year. Turkish Airlines Chairman lker Aycı said the Star Alliance
member planned to begin flying to Sydney by June 2019. “It’s
going to happen,” he said. It’s believed the route could be flown by
the airline’s new Boeing 787s, which will also see the debut of an
all-new Business Class seat and a strong focus on privacy.
easyJet heads East
Passengers should benefit from the announcement that
singapore airlines will join the Worldwide by easyjet global
connections service. The move, which will also include low-cost
subsidiary Scoot, will connect easyJet customers with South-East
Asia through Singapore Airlines via Milan Malpensa airport and
with Scoot through Berlin Tegel.
Rule Britannia
Spring over to Osaka
Fly directly into Osaka, the food capital of Japan, when
british airways launches its new flight in the spring. As
the country prepares to host the Rugby World Cup, be
the first to board the Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner service
which takes off in April 2019. The flight will depart
Heathrow Terminal 5 and land into Osaka’s Kansai
International Airport, bringing the number of daily
flights between the UK and Japan up to 32 per week.
Japan Airlines will also offer a code share on the new
service, giving customers the chance to earn and redeem
Avios loyalty points across the network.
Summer route to Kos
british airways will be launching a new route to
the Greek island of Kos – just in time for the school
holidays. The service will start this summer and
operate from Gatwick.
New look for centenary year
british airways staff will be wearing new uniforms designed
by Savile Row’s Ozwald Boateng to commemorate the airline’s
centenary in 2019. Boateng will follow in a long line of prestigious
fashion names from Hardy Amies to Julien MacDonald in
designing the new look. “It is important for me to create something
that makes all of British Airways’ 32,000 uniform-wearing
employees across the world excited,” said Boateng.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 5

in the KNOW
Here’s our scoop on the most exciting hotel openings
THE FARMSTEAD AT ROYAL MALEWANE
Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa
Hats off to the tastemakers behind The Royal Portfolio, which
includes The Silo and La Residence. Making any stay in the bush
even more elegant is their new property: The Farmstead at Royal
Malewane in Greater Kruger. They have reimagined a safari
lodge, that also delivers on style and substance. The guiding
teams are world class and the animals you are likely to see
are some of Africa’s best. There are different accommodation
options including The Farmhouse, a wonderful, exclusive hire,
three-and-a-half bedroom villa with its own chef, housekeeper,
and butler, as well as a private safari vehicle with ranger and
tracker. There’s a great chance of spotting the Big Five, as well
as specialist safari trips such as wildlife photography and
bushwalks. For an incredible family and friends getaway,
the Farmstead can be booked exclusively for up to 14 guests.
IKOS ARIA
Kos, Greece
Kos is going to get cosier when the 19-hectare, stylish IKOS
Aria opens on the mountainous Greek island in May 2019.
The Infinite Lifestyle brand hotel will feature eight restaurants
offering a world of flavour – everything from the Mediterranean
to the Orient. The kids won’t have time to stop here, whether
they are in the supervised club, in one of the pools, or engaging
in activities including paddleboarding, yoga, tennis, and football.
For the romantic touch, the IKOS Deluxe Collection will provide
a complimentary spa treatment, an exclusive swimming pool
and beach bar area, as well as high levels of service at both the
beach and pool, including snacks, cocktails and, perhaps most
importantly, a bottle of Taittinger on arrival.
6 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH
Montecito, California, US
Beach lovers rejoice! In 2019, you’ll be able to stay on one of
the world’s most beautiful beaches. Whether you choose to take
in the Los Angeles lifestyle first and then head 129 kilometres
north-west, or whether you prefer to make this your start and
end point, Rosewood Miramar Beach is simply spectacular. Set
in the idyllic seaside community of Montecito, this coastal retreat
oozes style, grace, and glamour. Come here simply to see and be
seen, or to rejuvenate with early morning yoga and sunset sandy
walks on Miramar Beach. There’s lively and entertaining dining
available or more intimate, romantic tables in the convivial
Manor House. The views over the Pacific Ocean are intoxicating.
Be prepared to book your next trip before you even leave...
FUTANGUE HOTEL & SPA
Lake Ranco, Northern Patagonia, Chile
We love the idea of an everyday escape at Futangue. This
privately owned park, a 90-minute flight from Santiago, lies on
the shores of Chile’s Lake Ranco. Here you can easily go off-grid
if you choose, with over 100 kilometres of wilderness trails to
select from and activities such as biking, kayaking, fly-fishing.
Or simply turn everything off including your mind for a few
hours in the hotel’s spa. The landscape here is beautiful, with
waterfalls, mountains, forests, rivers, and lakes, as well as more
unusual lava fields and hot springs to explore. This area is also
one of the most important biodiversity hot spots on the planet,
with some of the best-preserved examples of the Valdivian
rainforest right on the hotel’s doorstep.
ON OUR RADAR: OTHER HOT HOTEL OPENINGS
Billed as the first all-inclusive resort in the Florida Keys, the adult-only luxury resort of Bungalows Key Largo opens in 2019. With stunning sunsets on tap
from Sunset Cove, this is tropical Florida chic. Personal and personalised – it’s a dream holiday getaway. For a more indoor-outdoor tropical environment,
the Alila Villas Koh Russey in Cambodia is an ecological escape, with beachfront swimming pool as well as couples’-only alcoves for complete privacy.
Wilderness Safaris has notched up another environmental success story for spring 2019, this time in Rwanda, with its plastic-free camp Magashi in the
country’s Akagera National Park. Small and intimate, this private concession offers excellent safaris and is a homage to Rwandan culture and heritage.
Combine a stay here with a trip to Bisate for the unmissable gorilla-trekking experience.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 7

48 HOURS IN
MATERA
SPEND TWO DAYS IN MATERA, EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2019, AND DISCOVER AN
ANCIENT CITY OF STONE AND LABYRINTHINE CAVE DWELLINGS, SAYS A&K'S PHILIPPA TURNER
DAY 1
11.00
Arrive in Puglia, hop in a hire car and drive to
the hilltop town of Matera. One of the oldest
inhabited cities in the world, it is made up of
cave dwellings, or sassi, shaped out of soft tufa
rock. It will become clear that the caves are
pivotal to Matera’s lifestyle when you park up
at a hotel embedded in the ancient stone.
12.45
Drop your bags and leave your car at the gate:
Matera is all about walking around. Stroll
down the city’s cobbled streets lined with
honeycomb-like caves. Today you can explore
art galleries, cafés and baroque palaces carved
into the hillside. With or without the sassi,
Matera is UNESCO-credited, and rightly so,
for its medieval sleepy squares and sweeping
biblical views. Stop for lunch at Osteria al
Casale for local specialties such as homemade
bean soup and pizza with spicy sausage and
turnip tops.
15.30
You can work off lunch walking up the
Sasso Caveoso to Museo della Sculptura
Contemporanea. Housed in the 16th-century
Palazzo Pomarici, its rough-hewn chambers,
courtyards and Italian sculptures are worth
the climb. On the way down, duck into Casa
Cava, the world’s only underground cultural
centre, before heading back to your hotel to
relax and get ready for dinner.
18.45
Amble down to the Duomo Café in the
Cathedral square for an aperitivo at sunset.
After soaking up the evening ambience,
walk to Il Terrazzino where we’ve reserved
a front-row table overlooking the city,
gloriously lit up at night. Dine on handmade
orecchiette with creamy mozzarella.
8 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

DAY 2
09.00
After a leisurely breakfast, it’s time to head to
Parco della Murgia Materana, a national park
reminiscent of Jerusalem. Here you will find
over 100 Rupestrian churches dug into the
rockscape. Before you set off, stop in at
Il Forno di Gennaro, a family-run bakery
for straight-out-of-the-oven tomato focaccia.
It’s perfect picnic fare which will keep you
fuelled throughout the day.
11.30
Head to the Crypt of Original Sin, around
a 40-minute drive away from the national
park, where you can see caverns containing
eighth-century frescoes. After spending some
time here, you’ll feel like a refreshing snack.
Drive back to town and make a pit stop at
I Vizi degli Angeli for the prettiest
lavender-flavoured gelato.
14.30
There’s plenty of time for a spa session at your
hotel. If you’re still up for exploring, it’s an
hour’s drive to Martina Franca, a picturesque
town with whitewashed lanes, winding
alleyways and airy piazzas. After lingering
a while in this charming spot, head back to
Matera to change for dinner.
19.30
It’s your last night, so why not celebrate at one
of the town’s uber glam restaurants, Baccanti?
Overlooking a picturesque gorge, dine on veal
cheek with aglianico wine sauce under the glow
of soft candlelight. Nightcap? Head to Area 8,
a creative watering hole and discreet celeb hot
spot. Sip on thyme-infused negronis on the
terrace backed by the sounds of a DJ.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your
next European city break, call our travel
specialists on 01242 547 703.
left to right:
Matera skyline; Parco della Murgia Materana;
scenic courtyard in the Sassi district
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 9

WHERE TO explore
IN 2019
FROM AN OLD FAVOURITE SHINING BRIGHT ONCE
MORE TO AN IDYLLIC ISLAND, BUSTLING METROPOLISES,
AND REMOTE REGIONS, THESE HOT DESTINATIONS ARE
A&K EXPERT-ENDORSED AND SET TO BE THE NEXT BIG
THING. CONSIDER YOURSELF CLUED-UP
RWANDA
Luxury travel has arrived in Rwanda. Known as the ‘Land of
a Thousand Hills’, the country is home to more than a third
of the world’s remaining mountain gorilla. Environmentally,
this is one of the cleanest countries in the world. Combined
with a reduction in fees and several luxury hotel openings,
there’s never been a better time to visit.
HOTEL NEWS: One&Only Nyungwe House, located on the
edge of the Nyungwe Forest in the mountainous south-west,
has just opened. Within the lush green expanse of a working
tea plantation, One&Only Nyungwe House offers an exciting
window to Africa’s fascinating wildlife and culture. One&Only
Gorilla’s Nest is set to open in April 2019, near the village of
Kingi. From its vantage point on the foothills of the Virungas,
guests will be able to explore the habitat of mountain gorilla.
Due to open in March 2019 is Wilderness Safaris’ Magashi
Camp. Designed to help ensure the protection of the savanna
ecosystem and shoebill and black rhino species, this is a
wonderful opportunity to experience Rwanda beyond its
gorilla families. Singita Kwitonda Lodge is set to open in
August 2019 on the edge of Volcanoes National Park.
Located on a breathtaking 32-hectare plot, this lodge
puts gorilla trekking within easy reach.
An A&K eight-night, tailor-made holiday to Rwanda starts
at £6,695 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
10 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

ZIMBABWE
There’s never been a better time to visit Zimbabwe. A renewed
hope is evident amid a changing political landscape and this
spirit of optimism is attracting a fresh wave of tourism. ‘Zim’
is home to five different UNESCO World Heritage Sites and
the glorious natural attractions of Victoria Falls, the Zambezi
River and Hwange – the country’s largest game reserve.
The country is more vibrant than ever with a burst of exciting
hotel reopenings to boot.
HOTEL NEWS: Bumi Hills Safari Lodge on Lake Kariba
recently completed a £2.3 million upgrade. The lake-view
rooms were reconfigured, ensuring wonderful vistas over
Kariba. The accommodation was consolidated from 20 down
to 10 lake-view rooms and two premium rooms, making this
an intimate resort. Other improvements include lake cruise
boats and pontoons. These have been added to improve
the exceptional game viewing and sunset cruises. Singita
Pamushana Lodge in Zimbabwe’s Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve
reopened in May 2018 after a complete refurbishment. A pair
of two-bedroom suites were added, bringing its total offering
to eight suites and a private five-bedroom villa. Nature is
omnipresent: the lodge is set among towering trees, atop a
mountain, overlooking a lake in the remote reaches of the
pristine wildlife reserve.
An A&K 12-night, tailor-made holiday to Zimbabwe starts
at £6,715 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
PERU
Known for its ancient ruins, spectacular scenery and colonial
architecture, Peru has added cuisine to its international appeal.
The vibrant restaurant scene is home to some of the world’s
most influential chefs. Virgilio Martinez Véliz and Mitsuharu
Tsumura’s establishments in Lima and Cusco are a must
for visiting foodies. But some of Peru’s most beautiful hikes
begin just outside the city. In the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz
has become northern Peru’s centre for outdoor activities.
Huascarán National Park, covering nearly 340,000 hectares,
is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site and home of
some of South America’s most gorgeous scenery and glaciers
with 25 trekking routes and 102 mountaineering spots. And
last but not least, in 2019, the Dakar Rally will take place in
only one country for the first time in its history, with Peru the
sole host nation for the event.
HOTEL NEWS: Lake Titicaca has a new hotel – Amantica
Lodge lies on the small island of Amantani. Composed of
just two suites, it has been designed around the spectacular
panoramas, allowing guests to gaze over the calm waters to
the Peruvian mountains beyond. And in those picturesque
Peruvian Andes, the Belmond Andean Explorer is taking
relaxation to new lengths next year. After debuting its first
spa-on-wheels earlier this year in Scotland, the hotel and
leisure company is adding another spa to the sleeper train that
traverses the picturesque Peruvian Andes. The train’s spa car,
Picaflor (Spanish for hummingbird) is set to debut in March.
The spa-on-wheels will specialise in treatments inspired by
ingredients local to the region.
An A&K nine-night, tailor-made holiday to Peru starts at
£3,295 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
car hire, accommodation, and selected excursions)
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 11

ITALY
It’s hard to beat the mixture of history, architecture, food,
and people in the home of the Renaissance. The year to come
marks the 500-year anniversary of the death of one of the
Rebirth’s most preeminent figures – Leonardo da Vinci. In
honour of this quincentenary, there are events and exhibitions
scheduled throughout the country all year. Another cultural
happening of note, this year the European Capital of Culture
baton passes to the Puglian city of Matera – the first southern
Italian metropolis to be recognised in this way.
HOTEL NEWS: The Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group has taken
over management of an existing resort on the shores of Lake
Como. The property will be rebranded as Mandarin Oriental,
Lake Como, in spring 2019 following a refurbishment of
facilities. It will feature 76 spacious rooms and suites housed
in nine villas, dating from the 19th century. Hotel Eden Rome
has just opened after a 17-month renovation and is in one of
the city’s most-loved spots, ideally placed by the Spanish Steps
and Villa Borghese. In Puglia, the one to watch is the Masseria
Torre Maizza hotel, which was recently taken over by Rocco
Forte. In Florence, the Hotel Savoy is being modernised and
will reopen in April this year.
An A&K nine-night, tailor-made holiday to Italy starts at
£3,045 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
TURKEY
Turkey is a cultural marvel – where east meets west. It’s a
richly historical land with some of the best cuisine you’ll ever
taste and stunning scenery, from the Taurus Mountains to the
beaches of Bodrum. New hotel openings have brought it back
to the top of the agenda after a recent downturn.
HOTEL NEWS: Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum has teamed
up with pioneering name in healthcare, the Mayo Clinic.
Their programme is set to open in 2019, further highlighting
travellers’ appetite for wellness holidays. The Mayo Clinic is
ranked the number one hospital in the US, and the wellness
programme will focus on preventive practices, designed to
inspire a more balanced lifestyle. Guests will have the choice of
tailor-made experiences from one-day assessments to five-day
retreats. The new Six Senses Kaplankaya enjoys a stunning
position on the Aegean coast, surrounded by olive groves
and cypress trees. This is a perfect destination for families
wanting to take advantage of activities, classes, and cultural
trips, while also delivering relaxation and luxury in its spa and
dining experiences. Aman’s Amanruya once again opens its
doors in its secluded spot on the scalloped Aegean coastline.
The isolated resort, a scenic 30-minute drive from the bustling
town of Bodrum, rests in seclusion on 24 hectares of forested
hillside. It overlooks its own private bay – a rare privilege on
the Bodrum Peninsula.
An A&K seven-night, tailor-made holiday to Turkey starts
at £2,965 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
12 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

JAPAN
Japan will host the 2019 Rugby World Cup, and while there are
12 match venues, our eyes are fixed on Osaka and the Higashi
Osaka Hanazono – the country’s oldest rugby stadium. Japan’s
third largest city is famous for its top-notch museums, cool
urban parks, and rich food scene. British Airways will fly
direct to the city from 31 March – in plenty of time for
kick-off in the first match at Hanazono: Italy versus
Namibia on 22 September. Direct flights into this southern
city will open regions such as Setouchi’s seven prefectures
and 350 islands. While best-known for Hiroshima and its
Peace Memorial Museum, Setouchi is gaining traction as a
destination and can easily be accessed from Osaka. Setouchi
city’s winding hillside alleys and historic architecture
thankfully survived the war.
BED DOWN: Hotel Cycle is a former maritime warehouse
that’s been converted into a complex with amazing restaurants
and a bike shop. A design haven for cycle lovers and loathers,
it is located at the start of the 72-kilometre Shimanami Kaido
cycle path that connects the mainland, Honshu, with seven
islands in the Seto Inland Sea via a series of striking bridges.
A&K’s 14-night Discover Japan suggested itinerary starts at
£4,445 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
BRAZIL
Both 2016 and 2017 were tough on Brazil. The Olympics
brought both positive and negative attention: Zika scare
stories, economic downturn and far-reaching government
turmoil put tourists off. But Brazil is on the up again and is
abuzz with new luxury hotel openings from the bustling streets
of São Paulo to the white-sand beaches of Rio de Janeiro.
HOTEL NEWS: Four Seasons Hotel São Paulo is due to open
at the end of 2018 in one of São Paulo’s fastest-growing and
most desirable areas, Nações Unidas. Also expected to open
around the end of 2018, with a fantastic location in front
of Rio’s Leblon Beach, is Hotel Janeiro. There are also new
charterable boats on the Amazon. Trips on these vessels can be
transformed into a culinary journey. Top Brazilian chefs travel
aboard with guests, creating high-end food with anything
that can be foraged from the forest. Additionally, adventurous
travellers are now able to visit the restricted indigenous
territories of Brazil. One of the last villages remaining distinct
from the Western world, visits to Kayapo Camp are exclusive
to A&K and available for just two months each year. Hike with
Kayapo warriors, and enjoy boat safaris on the lookout for
tapir, great river otter, deer, jaguar, and puma.
A&K’s 10-night Classic Brazil suggested itinerary starts at
£4,695 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
INDIA
India overflows with heritage, culture, and history and 2019
is a very important year for this colourful country. It marks
150 years since the birth of Mahatma Gandhi; 90 years
since Mother Teresa arrived in Calcutta to help the sick
and the country’s poorest people; and 200 years since the
birth of Queen Victoria, Empress of India. After a period of
restoration, the dome of the Taj Mahal will be uncovered in
early 2019, making Agra one of the places to be.
HOTEL NEWS: New for spring 2019 is Taj Rishikesh Resort &
Spa. The resort sits high up – 35 kilometres above Rishikesh
– allowing for incredible views of the surrounding mountains
as well as access to a private white-sand bank on the shore of
the River Ganges. As the mighty river curves around the hotel,
the 81 rooms, including 47 villas, and public areas overlook
the Ganges and the pristine forest beyond. Utilising the rich
expertise of the Yoga Masters of Rishikesh, this property will
offer the very best of yoga and meditation in its 800-squaremetre
Jiva Spa. Jaagir Lodge Dudhwa is the latest opening from
The Ultimate Travelling Camp, a luxury camping experience
set in Terai which borders India and Nepal. This area is still not
on most travellers’ radars, and allows visitors to discover four
different national parks, with the chance to see some amazing
wildlife including tiger, one-horned rhino, leopard, wild
elephant, sloth bear, civet, and many more.
A&K’s eight-night Classic Northern India suggested itinerary
starts at £2,835 per person (based on two sharing, includes
flights, transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 13

EVERY
DOG HAS
ITS DAY
IT MAY BE ELEPHANT, LION AND RHINO THAT DRAW
PEOPLE TO THE OKAVANGO DELTA, BUT IT’S THE
‘PAINTED’ DOGS THAT DRIVE SUE WATT WILD AS
SHE GOES BEYOND THE BIG FIVE IN BOTSWANA
photographer: Will Whitford
A NEW LUXURY BEACH RESORT HAS OPENED ITS
DOORS IN A REMOTE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO IN
THE BAY OF BENGAL. WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER
CHRIS CALDICOTT DISCOVERS WHY THE TAJ
EXOTICA ANDAMANS IS WORTH THE JOURNEY
14 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

BOTSWANA
As dusk falls over the Delta, I’m transfixed by an
enormous elephant heading straight towards me. He
comes so close I can see the dense lashes shielding his
reddish-brown eyes, the wiry hairs on his trunk and myriad
scratches on his tusks. I swear I could reach out and touch him
without taking a single step forward – yet he has no idea that
I’m here.
Neither do the other 20 bull elephant slurping and splashing
around the muddy waterhole. That’s because I’m safely tucked
away in a hide, a semi-submerged container with windows
just above ground-level, and I’m watching all this unseen.
Mesmerised, we stay here for an hour.
It’s one of many magical Big Five encounters I get to
experience in Botswana’s famous Okavango Delta. Traditionally,
the term referred to the five most dangerous animals to hunt –
elephant, rhino, Cape buffalo, leopard and lion – but today, it
denotes the most popular wildlife species to tick off (by spotting
not shooting) while on safari, the ones that pull in the crowds.
Here in the Delta, though, there are no crowds.
Our first stop is Sable Alley in Khwai Private Reserve, a
25-minute bush flight from Maun, the gateway town to the
Okavango. With an emphasis on affordable luxury, it’s part
of Natural Selection’s portfolio of small, owner-run camps,
brimming with character.
The 12 stylish tented rooms and the main lounge and dining
area all overlook a pan frequented by elephant and hippo, which
often wander through the unfenced camp. Its soothing, natural
ambience is complemented by high thatch roofs over the main
open building, plenty of comfy sofas and chairs, carvings and
crafts, and wooden decking leading to the swimming pool.
Bordering Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park in
northern Botswana, Khwai Private Reserve is a former hunting
concession. Wildlife here was understandably skittish but after a
couple of years of habituation, the animals now realise that guests
here shoot with cameras, not guns. There are few camps in the
reserve, which spans 2,000 square kilometres of woodlands, rivers
and open floodplains, and it feels as if you have it all to yourself.
On our first game drive, we meet Nicholas, a beautiful
11-month-old leopard. He’s lying by a termite mound in shady
mopane woodland, waiting patiently for mum Nicky to return
from hunting. Nicky is apparently one cool, laid-back cat and has
passed this on to her son. Totally chilled, he raises his head to see
us then flops down again and continues snoozing.
Later, we find two tiny lion cubs with their mum lying in the
shade in the afternoon sun. Balls of tawny fluff with furry white
bellies, they’re just two months old and are utterly adorable. Full
of naughty curiosity, one cub strays too far in our direction so
mum picks him up in her mouth and carries him back to safety.
On game drives along the Sable Alley channel, we come across
hippo wallowing in the water. Giraffe, zebra, impala, kudu,
waterbuck and reedbuck amble along the plains. Famously the
most aggressive and unpredictable of the Big Five, grumpy Cape
buffalo caked in dried mud glare at us as we pass.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 15

FULL OF NAUGHTY CURIOSITY, ONE CUB STRAYS TOO FAR IN OUR DIRECTION
SO MUM PICKS HIM UP IN HER MOUTH AND CARRIES HIM BACK TO SAFETY
The Delta’s cold, clear nights are ideal for stargazing and a
night at Natural Selection’s Skybeds is the perfect way to do
this. An intimate, rustic camp deep in the bush, it has just three
‘rooms’ – five-metre-high wooden towers like treehouses, open
to the elements with the starlit sky for a ceiling.
Our two-hour drive from Sable Alley includes that
mesmerising encounter at the elephant hide, and we arrive
at Skybeds in time for sundowners. Sipping G&Ts in the bar
treehouse, we realise that elephant have joined us, drinking their
own sundowner at a waterhole just beyond camp. Dinner is
cooked over the campfire, then we head to bed on the top floor
of our tower, snuggling up under thick duvets and that fabulous
twinkling sky. But sleep doesn’t come easy – I’m too busy taking
in the cosmos and counting shooting stars.
Our next Delta destination is Chief ’s Island in Moremi Game
Reserve, a half-hour flight away. Renowned for its high density of
wildlife, the largest island in the Delta was once the royal hunting
ground of local ruler Chief Moremi, who gave it to the reserve in
the 1970s.
Our home on this beautiful and bountiful island is Sanctuary
Chief ’s Camp overlooking the Piajio floodplains in the private
Mombo concession. Chief ’s exudes relaxed luxury: it’s all cream
and wood décor with sumptuous leather sofas and chairs in the
lounge under a high thatch roof and sunbeds shaded by calico
umbrellas surrounding the pool. Chief ’s 12 spacious suites
have private plunge pools and all the mod-cons you need, from
Nespresso coffee machines and aircon to well-stocked mini-bars
and wifi.
The island certainly lives up to its reputation as a predator
paradise. On game drives, we see hardly any other vehicles but
plenty of lion, either alone or in prides of up to ten, prowling the
plains or sleeping in the afternoon sun. We come across a huge
dark-maned male lying by the track. As he gets up, he roars then
stalks towards a herd of impala. The tension in the air is palpable
but the antelope defiantly stand their ground, rooted to the spot
as their predator walks past.
On one drive, we spot a black rhino waddling gracelessly
across the plain. She’s huge and prehistoric-looking, and
she’s very special. Mary was brought from South Africa in
an extensive relocation programme with Botswana Rhino
Conservation. Secrecy surrounds the exact number translocated
to Botswana, where rhino were once extinct. Our guide tells us
that she’s “heavily pregnant and, unusually for a black rhino,
always calm”. I’m very thankful we saw her.
But it’s not all about the big beasts. On a mokoro, a traditional
dug-out canoe, we glide blissfully along a lily-strewn channel
spotting tiny frogs clinging on to grasses and dragonflies
fluttering all around us. It’s a classic Okavango scene as the
floodwaters arrive from Angola. We head back as the sun sets,
reflected perfectly in the mirror-like waters.
And for all the thrill of the Big Five, the animal I really love
to watch is the wild dog. The following morning, we leave at a
chilly 6am, aiming to reach their den before they go hunting.
We find these super-efficient killing machines snuggled up
together against the cold, with sated bellies and blood-stained
faces. There are 10 in the pack, their huge saucer-shaped ears
popping up now and then amid their palette of unique brown,
white, gold and black patterned hides – no wonder these canines
are known as ‘painted’ dogs.
These fascinating, family-focused beasts may not be in the
exclusive clique of the Big Five, but they’ve long intrigued me
and my time in their company was truly special.
Once again, effortlessly, the Delta delivers…
previous page, from left: A wild dog; leopard on the prowl;
Sanctuary Chief ’s Camp
opposite, clockwise from top left: Wild dog; a lioness with her cub;
a rhino in the bush; giraffe; sunset over the Delta; cruising up to Chief’s Camp
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
A&K’s 11-night Classic Botswana itinerary starts at £5,695 per
person (based on two sharing, includes flights, private transfers,
accommodation and selected excursions). For more information,
call our Africa travel specialists on 01242 547 702.
16 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

BOTSWANA
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 17

OPEN FOR
BUSINESS
OVER A YEAR AFTER TWO MAJOR HURRICANES MADE LANDFALL
IN THE CARIBBEAN, HOTELS ARE REOPENING AND THE ISLANDS
ARE BOUNCING BACK, SAYS A&K’S AMANDA SPRINGER
Furious storms are nothing new in these islands
but 2017’s hurricane season was unparalleled in the
Caribbean. Hurricanes Irma and Maria were both
Category 5 strength (top of the Saffir-Simpson scale
of hurricane intensity) and 2017 was only the second
season on record when two of these storms hit. Many
islands were battered and damaged, but that doesn’t
mean you should stay away – quite the opposite. Around
70 per cent of the islands were unaffected by Irma and
Maria, and tourism revenue coming into one island
helps the whole region. The countries that were affected
are now rebuilding and reopening, as swiftly as possible,
to tourists.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your next Caribbean holiday,
call our beach travel specialists on 01242 547 780.
18 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

ANGUILLA
Irma swept across this tiny British dependency on 6 September 2017.
More than a year later, the island has mostly recovered. Over 70 per
cent of the island’s villas and 95 per cent of restaurants have reopened.
Most luxury hotels are welcoming guests including Four Seasons
Resort and Residences, which required repairs due to storm damage,
and Belmond Cap Juluca, which closed before the storms for a $121
million refurbishment. Malliouhana (below) will debut 17 new rooms in
early 2019 – including Turtle Beach-front villas.
ANTIGUA & BARBUDA
The dual-island nation had two blasts of the hurricane season.
Barbuda, the smaller island with a population of just 2,000, was the
worst hit of all the Caribbean nations – Irma’s eye passed over it on 5
September. Antigua, however, only sustained minor damage. Jumby
Bay Island (above), Curtain Bluff, Carlisle Bay (left) and Hermitage
Bay – to name but a few – are all open as normal.
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Hurricanes Irma and Maria joined forces to inflict notable damage
on the BVIs, with Virgin Gorda hit very hard. The islands were still
reeling from the impact of Irma when Maria passed through. On
these devastated islands, full power was only restored in spring 2018.
Long-term reconstruction is underway and a few of the resort islands
are reopening. Richard Branson’s Necker Island resumed welcoming
guests in October 2018. Rosewood Little Dix Bay (below), which
sustained significant damage, is slated to reopen in late 2019.
ST BARTS
This tiny French overseas collective was slammed by Irma on
6 September, with beach hotels sustaining the most damage.
Many buildings on the island are concrete so have been rebuilt
with exceptional speed. Eden Rock on St Jean Bay and
Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France (above) saw Saint Barthelemy
reopened in time for Christmas.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 19

I REALISED IT WOULD BE POSSIBLE TO GO
FROM MELBOURNE TO ADELAIDE THROUGH
WINE REGIONS I BARELY KNEW
20 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

AUSTRALIA
Time to
WINE AND DINE
STOPPING TO TASTE THE VERY BEST THAT
VICTORIA AND SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAVE TO
OFFER, NINA CAPLAN ALLOWS HERSELF TO
BE DRIVEN TO DELIGHT IN THEIR VINEYARDS
There are two great things about road tripping in
Australia: the lack of complications – no borders or
language changes – and the wondrous sense of freedom.
There’s so much to see, and you are in control of how and when
you see it. Plus, the horizons are so broad and the landscape
so beautiful, you feel as if you’ve removed blinkers you never
realised you were wearing.
I’ve travelled the Great Ocean Road, the spectacular coastal
drive between Victoria and South Australia, before; this time
I decided to see what lay inland, away from that distractingly
lovely shoreline, and the answer, happily, was wine. These
regions are less famous than the Yarra or Clare Valleys, but their
lack of renown has nothing to do with quality. I realised it would
be possible to drive from Melbourne to Adelaide through wine
regions I barely knew, stopping at the excellent restaurants that
seem to grow like vines in grape territory, and discover a whole
new Australia while I was at it. And when I say “drive”, obviously
I mean “be driven”. Who wants to be behind the wheel when
there’s tasting to do?
From Melbourne’s fabulous QT hotel in the CBD, I went
south-west, to Geelong, the little city right on the bay, to dine at
Igni, a superb restaurant that prides itself on its tasting menu,
invented daily according to what producers have supplied that
morning. I also stopped at Geelong Cellar Door, a cosy spot
with an open fire that specialises in local wines – which you can
also take away.
If you’re wondering what to try, Wines by Farr is a good label
to look for, since they, unusually for an Aussie winery, don’t
welcome visitors: the wines are so good, and quantities so small,
they don’t need to. Or try Lethbridge wines, which are also
superb – although you can visit Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis,
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 21

just 30 minutes drive north, and if you ring in advance they’ll
prepare a platter lunch to accompany their vintages.
Geelong is a great jumping-off point, not into the bay but into
the vineyards that benefit from its cooling influence. There are
plenty to choose from: Leura Park Estate; Jack Rabbit Vineyard,
which has a restaurant with panoramic views; Oakdene, where
the owner’s offbeat artistic sensibility shows in artworks dotted
round the premises, and you taste the wines in what looks like
a house tipped on its head; and Scotchmans Hill, from which
winemaker Robin Brockett claims you can see all the way to
Melbourne, although I’m not sure why you would particularly
want to. Better to admire the vines from the old-style
farmhouse, in between sampling platters of nibbles, and tasting
their excellent wines.
Another way to enjoy the scenery is on the Q Train, a
crazy notion to show off the view and the local produce via a
decommissioned locomotive brought down from Queensland.
A six-course tasting menu is served in First Class; dishes arrive
on a tiered tray of the kind more usually seen in hotels serving
afternoon tea, and local wines are served as the train slides past
the birdlife of Port Phillip Heads Marine National Park and the
scenic waters of Swan Bay.
Under no circumstances should anyone travelling this
route miss out on Brae – that is, unless they hate great food
and wine. Dan Hunter made his name at the Royal Mail Hotel
(still worth a stop for his successor Robin Wickens’ restaurant
– and the largest privately owned wine cellar in the Southern
Hemisphere), but has since moved to Birregurra and created
a gastronomic marvel in a former farmhouse. Here, he and
his team mill their own flour and grow their own produce.
The multi-course menu in the restaurant, from which you can
look outward onto gum trees or inward to the busy kitchen, is
an exceptional blend of local ingredients, witty presentation
and a broad overview on what’s needed to create a worldclass
restaurant. There are six rooms, all with record players,
baths overlooking the countryside, and the best mini-bar I’ve
ever seen: half bottles from makers like Bill Downie, whose
recherché wines are hard to find even in big cities.
Drive across the invisible border into South Australia and the
land changes subtly: first there’s the Blue Lake, a volcanic crater
near Mount Gambier filled with water that turns turquoise in
the summer (I was there in winter and it’s pretty blue then, too);
then the Naracoorte Caves, a series of grottos discovered in 1859
by Reverend Tenison-Woods, who claimed they were Australian
evidence of the Biblical flood. The caves are filled with the bones
of dinosaurs and other prehistoric creatures that fell into these
hollows and were trapped and preserved, including marsupials,
lion and gargantuan kangaroo, and the eerie lighting and
dramatic rock formations make for a memorable experience of
the land that nurtures the vines above.
The third place to see the differences between this patch of
Australia and every other region is in the glass. The distinctive
red soil of Coonawarra makes a great home for cabernet
sauvignon in particular. There’s plenty of tasty proof, at Redman
Wines, Katnook Estate, Wynns – the longest-serving winery,
with an interesting mini-museum and the original train station,
long defunct, on their property – and Raidis Estate, where a
young couple are making great wines in an informal setting that
bodes well for the next generation of cabernet lovers.
And nobody goes hungry in Coonawarra, either. There’s
terrific food overlooking the vines at Hollick Estate or in town at
Pipers of Penola, a fine-tuned little place with a fabulous list of
local bottles.
Then it’s on to McLaren Vale, where Chester Osborn of
d’Arenberg wines has built a showplace for his products that’s
as oddball as he is: a giant Rubik’s Cube among the vines filled
22 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

AUSTRALIA
with experiences from sensory chambers to 180-degree filmic
views of the vineyards, to an opportunity to blend your very
own d’Arenberg. And when the craziness gets too much (even
the toilets have bonkers decoration), you can nip across to their
old-fashioned restaurant, d’Arrys Verandah, for a superb lunch
made from local ingredients.
Everybody is talking about the Cube, but a quieter McLaren
Vale experience that nobody should miss is feeding kangaroo
at Woodstock Wine Estate. Their wines are excellent too, but
there’s nothing quite like entering an enclosure where young
roos bound up for bottled milk, while a friendly emu looks on
wondering what all the fuss is about.
If you have time on the gorgeous drive to the Adelaide
Hills, Yangarra Estate Vineyard has a tasting room like a well
upholstered living room and a selection of wines made from
southern Rhône varieties that could give the vignerons of
Châteauneuf du Pape a run for their money. Nip east before
you drive west into Adelaide for lunch at Bird in Hand winery,
where the food is excellent, there are back vintages open to try,
and the birds in question – rose-breasted cockatoos, or galahs –
hop around the vines as if they own the place.
previous page: d'Arenberg Cube
clockwise from top left: Blue Lake, near Mount Gambier; Woodstock
Wine Estate; autumn in Adelaide Hills; Bird in Hand Winery; d’Arenberg Cube
Dead Arm shiraz vertical masterclass
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your driving tour of Southern
Australia’s wineries, call our Australasia travel specialists on
01242 547 826.
WHERE TO STAY
The QT Melbourne is slap-bang in the middle of the city’s CBD. This
old cinema has been transformed into an industrial chic boutique
hotel. There’s a buzzing rooftop bar, a Japanese knife store operated
by tenth-generation sword makers, and the walls are dressed with
specially commissioned artworks. Located on the famed Great
Ocean Road, in the village of Apollo Bay, Captains at the Bay is an
11-room seaside retreat that has the beach in easy reach. Formerly an
agricultural outpost built by a German immigrant in the 19th century,
The Barn in Mount Gambier is set in two hectares of manicured, English
gardens and is ideal for making hay during a stay. Constantly enticing
epicureans, The Louise is a slice of contemporary luxe in Barossa
Valley’s shiraz vine-lined hillside. Guests rave about the outstanding
restaurant and 15 suites with outdoor rainshowers in most. The Mayfair
Hotel on Adelaide’s King William Street has a gleaming, and gargoyletopped
Art Deco façade, but don’t let that scare you away. This sleek,
170-room hotel recently had a $55 million refurb and has upped
Adelaide’s accommodation game as a result. AD
clockwise from top: The QT Melbourne; The Louise vineyards; The Mayfair;
The Louise Appellation dining; Captains at the Bay
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 23

ADELAIDE
FLINDERS RANGES
TOP 10 REASONS TO VISIT
ADELAIDE
AND SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
KANGAROO
ISLAND
FLEURIEU
PENINSULA
BAROSSA VALLEY
ADELAIDE
ADELAIDE HILLS
MCLAREN VALE
The understated, and by many undiscovered, gem of Australia, Adelaide is idyllically located
between white-sand beaches and green rolling hills. This compact, accessible city is the
gateway to more than 200 vineyards, all within an hour’s drive. With impeccable foodie
credentials, Adelaide has a vibrant market precinct and scattering of quirky bars lining the
famous laneways. But lovely as it is, there’s more to South Australia than its capital – and if
you need convincing, here are our top reasons why you should visit…
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to discuss your next
holiday to Adelaide and South Australia, call
our travel specialists on 01242 547 826.
1
STAY IN TRUE LUXURY
A heritage-listed Art Deco building, the Mayfair Hotel
displays all the class of its London namesake. Rubbing
shoulders with Adelaide’s burgeoning laneway bars and
incredible restaurants, you’ll be rewarded for venturing
out from its tastefully decorated rooms – but if you’d rather
stay put, the Mayfair’s 13th-floor Hennessey Bar is stunning.
The elegant décor, from marble bar to glittering chandelier,
spills out on to a stylish deck and balcony, allowing you to
enjoy Adelaide’s Mediterranean climate.
WATCH WILDLIFE IN THE HILLS
If touring gently rolling hills, historic villages, and country roads lined with grapevines
appeals, read on. An easy 30-minute drive east of the city is the cool countryside of
the Adelaide Hills. Kick off the day with an excellent breakfast and panoramic views
at Mount Lofty, before meeting kangaroo, koala, wallaby, emu, Tasmanian devil, and
wombat at Cleland Wildlife Park. Of the nearly 50 wineries in the region, our favourite
is Penfolds Grange for a tour and to dine at their cellar door.
24 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019
2

3
HIT THE BEACH
The picturesque Fleurieu Peninsula is home
to fantastic surf beaches and pretty harbour
villages. Just a 45-minute drive south of
Adelaide, you can laze on the sand, or if you’re
feeling active, fish, snorkel, and scuba dive.
At the historic river port town of Goolwa,
Australia’s longest river, the Murray, meets
the sea. Keep an eye out for seal and penguin,
which frequent the coast. And if you haven’t yet
had your fill, the charming McLaren Vale has
over 65 wineries open for tastings.
WINE AND DINE IN
THE BAROSSA
The lovely Barossa valley is South Australia’s most
famous wine region, with more than 150 wineries
and around 80 cellar doors. Seppeltsfield Wines offers
the chance to taste a tawny fortified vintage from the
year you were born, straight out of the barrel – an
experience enjoyed by HRH Prince Charles and
the Duchess of Cornwall when they visited. A&K
recommends a hot-air balloon ride to take in an aerial
view of the vineyards. For the more active, a cycling
tour will help build up a thirst.
4
IMAGE: SEPPELTSFIELD WINES
5
SLEEP AMID THE VINES
We highly recommend a stay at The Louise, a winery
hotel set on a hill and surrounded by spreading grape
vines as far as the eye can see. There are just 15 suites,
each with its own terrace, allowing you to take in
the view while sampling world-class local wines. The
hotel’s Appellation Restaurant is well worth a visit,
attracting international acclaim with its locally sourced
produce. The daily chef ’s tasting menu is our favourite.
WORDS: JAMES TREACY
HOP OVER TO KANGAROO ISLAND
Known to locals as KI, this wildlife haven seems like something out of a
storybook. With just 4,000 people living on the island, there’s plenty of scope
to find a patch of wilderness and get under the skin of this incredible place.
For the active visitor, a trip through the rock formations and a hike along the
spectacular new KI Wilderness Trail – a three-hour walk along the coast –
are a must. With the Southern Ocean on one side, on the other you can spot
abundant wildlife including kangaroo, koala and many birds.
6
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 25

EXPERIENCE A SHORE THING
Sitting on the clifftop, surrounded by sand dunes, boutique hotel Southern
Ocean Lodge is the stuff of (sweet) dreams – and a favourite haunt of the
rich and famous. The Great Room serves as the lobby, with exhilarating
views of the Southern Ocean crashing against the rocks below. The open
bar and wine cellar allow you to continue your South Australian wine
odyssey in comfort. An eco-friendly design, the lodge runs on rainwater,
solar power, and compost recycling. Rooms are effortlessly cool, and the
Osprey Pavilion is our top choice. Don’t miss the Kangas and Kanapes
experience – sunset drinks surrounded by kangaroo in their natural habitat.
7
8
GET OUT IN THE OUTBACK
Remember the sweeping landscapes of the film Australia, starring Nicole
Kidman? You can experience the red desert in person at Arkaba Conservancy
in the Flinders Ranges. A four-and-a-half-hour drive, or quick flight north
of Adelaide, this former sheep station is an elegant 1850s homestead and
wildlife sanctuary set across 24,000 hectares, offering guests an all-inclusive
experience in its five elegant rooms. Each day, 4x4 safaris allow you to get
close to the wildlife and learn about award-winning conservancy projects. If
you’re feeling adventurous, you can book a guided walk and sleep in campsite
swags for two nights. Hot water is solar-generated at the homestead, with no
appliances in rooms, and a decanter of rainwater on bedside tables.
EAT AT AUSTRALIA’S
BEST RESTAURANT
Scottish chef Jock Zonfrillo, winner of MasterChef
Australia, is an odd champion for the Aboriginal food
revolution. Nonetheless, Orana has been named Australia’s
Restaurant of the Year at the Good Food Guide Awards.
Sitting in the centre of Adelaide’s Rundle Street, the intimate
dining spot focuses on native Australian ingredients and
traditional cooking methods. Orana means “welcome” in
some Aboriginal languages, and Zonfrillo has spent years
researching with the Aborigines. Everything cooked in the
restaurant is foraged by the chef ’s team, keeping the menu
in line with the seasons.
9
IMAGE: MATTHEW TURNER
10
TOUR WITH A LOCAL
Adelaide is small and compact, and with a friendly welcome
guaranteed, you’ll soon feel at home in its European-style
streets and lush green spaces. One way to accelerate the process
is to take an electric pedicab tour run by knowledgeable locals,
exploring the city’s intricate laneway networks, parks, cafés, and
boutiques. Lasting from one to two hours, let your guide know
what you’d like to see, and they’ll tailor the experience for you.
26 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

RAPID BAY, FLEURIEU PENINSULA
WELCOME TO OUR BACKYARD.
Paradise awaits on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island, the Eyre Peninsula and the Fleurieu
Peninsula, where coastlines stretch hundreds of miles and the only footprints you’ll spot are
your own. Of course, our locals will be more than happy to show you around. Follow the lead of
dolphins and sea lions to crystal-clear coves with snow-white sand, then reward your wonder
with world-famous seafood and legendary local wine. Soak up the best of Adelaide and unearth
the raw beauty of South Australia in 2019. Visit abercrombiekent.co.uk or call 01242 547 826.

aloha
Hawaii
WHETHER YOU’RE TRAVELLING WITH FAMILY OR FRIENDS,
HONEYMOONING, OR SEEKING ADVENTURE, ONE OF HAWAII’S ISLANDS
WILL PROVE THE PERFECT DESTINATION, SAYS A&K'S CHARLOTTE WELLS
Sandy beaches, surf competitions, movie
blockbuster backdrops – the state of Hawaii
has it all, but it is also a haven of escape
and holiday bliss. A place with a distinctive
personality, it’s defined by its island culture,
unique nature, and looming volcanoes.
The 143 islands of Hawaii make up an
archipelago spanning 2,400 kilometres. Hawaii
will celebrate its 60th anniversary as a US state
in 2019, but it is far from a typical American
destination. The only state comprised of islands,
Hawaii has its own time zone and a diverse ethnic
mix – ranging through European, Polynesian,
American, Asian, Japanese, and Chinese.
Looking back a few decades, Hawaii was
synonymous with huge, faceless hotels focused
solely on US travellers looking to emulate Elvis
Presley’s lifestyle. Nowadays, visitors are savvier
and more international, seeking luxury and
adventure, cultural experiences, and a chance to
discover the natural world. Accommodation here
has had to step up to cope with demand.
Hawaii offers so much that it can be hard to
decide which island to choose, and how to spend
your time. So here’s a guide to the best bits of its
largest landmasses, and how to go about making
the most of a trip here. Hawaii is a place to
treasure – absorb the culture, the landscape,
the sun, the memories. Every island will delight
you in its own unique way.
ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: KATY CALDERWOOD
28 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

HAWAII
Kauai
GOOD FOR: ADRENALIN JUNKIES AND THRILL SEEKERS
Kauai is the oldest, northernmost, and fourth largest of Hawaii’s
main islands. You may recognise it as the backdrop for films
including Jurassic Park, Blue Hawaii, South Pacific and The
Descendants. This location is all about natural beauty and is
commonly known as the ‘Garden Island’. While there is surfing to
be done on its laid-back Na Pali, Kauai’s main attractions are its
landscapes – unspoilt rainforests, deep valleys, and awe-inspiring
cliffs dominate the scenery.
It’s an island for the outdoorsy and the active, with much of
it only accessible by sea or air. The Waimea Canyon or ‘Grand
Canyon of the Pacific’ may not be as large as its Arizona cousin,
but it is unique to the area. It’s 22 kilometres long, 1,600 metres
wide and 1,100 metres deep, showcasing waterfalls, and inland
and ocean vistas, and offers beautiful hikes into Kōke‘e State Park.
For other outdoor activities, kayaking down the island’s only
navigable river, the Wailua, is an excellent few hours of exercise;
or try to spot bird species such as frigate, booby and Laysan
albatross from the Daniel K Inouye Kilauea Lighthouse on the
island’s northernmost tip. In the right season and if you’re lucky,
humpback whale also pass this point, but even without seeing a
whale, a trip here is never wasted thanks to the spectacular views
of the surrounding peninsula and sea.
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:
• Take an overnight adventure into the Waimea Canyon and enjoy
two days of swimming, relaxing, and exploring petroglyphs and
unique flora and fauna.
Oahu
GOOD FOR: FAMILIES SEEKING FUN, SUN, AND SURF
Oahu is the ‘Gathering Island’, a melting pot of culture, sport,
nature, and family-friendly activities. The birthplace of Barack
Obama combines the Orient and the Occident, the modern and
the ancient. This ‘heart of Hawaii’ has the largest population of
the islands and is home to Honolulu, the state capital, a bustling
metropolis of shops and cultural highlights. Here you can visit the
Honolulu Museum of Art, ‘Iolani Palace, the Kawaiaha‘o Church,
and the Bishop Museum, helping you to understand more about
the heritage of this beautiful island and its sometimes sad history.
A visit to Pearl Harbor is a poignant and powerful reminder of
tragic times in World War II, as well as a commemoration of those
who lost their lives.
Oahu is more than its history, though, and Kualoa Ranch offers
activities for families including zip-lining, mountain biking, and
ATV drives, horse riding, and kayaking against the backdrop of
movie sets from Jurassic Park, Lost, Godzilla, 50 First Dates and
You, Me and Dupree. For even more active adventures, there are
remote hikes to be taken on the Leeward Coast and up to Kaena
Point for birdwatching and perhaps whale spotting. Or for surf
lovers, this is the place to be for the annual Vans Triple Crown
surf competition.
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:
• Explore the best of Oahu with a local insider revealing hidden
gems from remote beaches to authentic local culture.
• Enjoy serious big game fishing off the coast aboard a private
yacht charter, with family or friends.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 29

Lanai and Molokai
GOOD FOR: HONEYMOONERS AND HISTORY BUFFS
SEEKING OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK EXPERIENCES
Lanai
The smaller island of Lanai has only 3,200 inhabitants and the
grandly named Lanai City may be more of a village, but don’t be
fooled. Lanai has many a claim to fame. Known for its historical
industry, the ‘Pineapple Island’ was bought by James Dole (founder
of what is now the Dole Food Company). Dole bought Lanai
in 1922, creating an island-wide pineapple plantation – its final
pineapple was harvested in 1992.
Although one of the most remote, rural, and private islands,
Lanai now has another famous owner. In 2012, Oracle founder
Larry Ellison bought 97 per cent of Lanai for a record $600
million, wanting to make it the “first economically viable,
100 per cent green community”.
Whether he can achieve this remains to be seen and the island
remains divided into two distinct parts – luxury resort tourism
and low-key escapism. In the south, five-star resorts and golf
courses dominate an idyllic honeymoon destination – around
here, head for romantic sundowners and sunsets over Hulopoe
Bay, exciting cruises around Manele Bay to see spinner dolphin
at play, and exhilarating hikes to Puu Pehe, known fondly as
‘Sweetheart Rock’.
In contrast, head north for a more active adventure, where 643
kilometres of Lanai’s roads are dirt track, accessible only by 4x4
vehicles. The deserted beaches here will delight you, including
Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach) or, for a more horticultural trip, seek
out Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Lanai is also famed for
its sea cliffs, not as high as those of Molokai, but dramatic and
disconcerting nevertheless. These rocky edifices rise from 105
metres around Kaumalapau Harbor to 300 metres along the
coast and the sea stacks offshore at Nänähoa have to be seen to
be believed.
Molokai
Oh, Molokai – an island of discovery and delight. But it’s
somewhere most tourists to Hawaii simply don’t reach. There’s not
much there, no amenities to speak of – just a few local cafés for the
islanders (and those who make the extra effort to visit). But those
tourists who do come here are well rewarded.
Famed for its lack of infrastructure, Molokai is nature
undiscovered and a step back in time to the ‘old Hawaii’. The
residents, numbering around 7,500, are mostly native Hawaiian
and have a strong affiliation to the area’s heritage and history.
This area was once shunned and was used as a leper colony in
the 1800s within the confines of Kalaupapa National Historical
Park. Nowadays this park is only accessible by mule or on foot, but
it’s worth a visit to understand its history and see its flora and
fauna. Many of these species are federally listed as threatened and
endangered and here you may also spot monk seal, humpback
whale, and green sea turtle. At the edge of the park are the North
Shore Pali Cliffs – the tallest sea cliffs in the world – with views
over the Pacific.
For something unique on Molokai, a visit to Hoolehua Post
Office is great fun. Here, you can head to the Post-a-Nut counter
and mail a free coconut back to friends and family. Let them
experience a taste of the exotic, just like you.
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:
• Enjoy a challenging canoe trip to Molokini. Take part in a
stunning, yet rigorous, paddle and then jump in for truly
spectacular snorkelling.
• Island hop on a 50-minute flight from Kahului to Molokai,
passing over stunning views of west Maui’s rugged terrain.
previous page: Na Pali coast, Kauai; Waimea Canyon, Kauai
left to right: Sweetheart Rock, Lanai; beach off the Road to Hana,
Maui; lava flow off the coast of Big Island
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:
• Experience a relaxing and romantic catamaran sail as the sun sets
over beautiful Lanai.
• Ride through the hills surrounding Koele on horseback following
a ranch hand who will share the history of Lanai and the best
vistas to appreciate its beauty.
30 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

HAWAII
Maui
GOOD FOR: HONEYMOONERS AND THOSE
SEEKING AUTHENTICITY ON THE ISLANDS
Maui is the ‘Valley Isle’, boasting local charm, community spirit,
and activities that will keep you enjoying the Hawaii countryside
and outdoors all day long. The second largest Hawaiian island,
it prides itself on breathtaking scenery, lunar landscapes, and
bamboo forests, alongside its beachside opportunities for whale
watching, luau experiences, and excellent local cuisine including
Hawaii’s must-eat shave ice.
There are two sides to Maui that should both be experienced.
The first and the most touristy is the Road to Hana – an 84-
kilometre stretch that connects the town of Hana with Kahului.
With a 40 kilometre per hour speed limit on most of the route,
it’s a perfect way to spend time, meandering past waterfalls, sea
cliffs, rainforests, and beaches, and navigating hairpin bends. It’s
a testing drive (and sometimes called ‘the Divorce Highway’), but
it gives a lot back to those making the effort. Stopping off at the
many roadside stalls means you can experience an authentic side
to Maui – peruse flowers and lei, pineapples, banana bread, and
local jewellery – and then take a break at the Pools of Oheo for a
refreshing dip.
Artisan products are big business in Maui – and a visit to the
O’o Farm in Kula guarantees coffee lovers an experience of passion
and pride. This is coffee produced from seed to cup and is well
worth a detour. Craft beer should be sampled at Maui Brewing
in Kihei and the spirits on the island are very powerful – Ocean
Organic Vodka draws its strength from the deep ocean water used
in its production, while liquors from Hali’imaile Farm are locally
produced from the field to the bottle – something the owners are
rightly proud of.
It’s with good reason that Condé Nast Traveller has named Maui
the best island in Hawaii for more than 20 years.
Island of Hawaii
GOOD FOR: FAMILY HOLIDAYS WITH ACTIVE TEENAGERS
The ‘Big Island’ of Hawaii is also its youngest – and it really does
have it all. Several of the world’s climate zones are found here as
well as cosmopolitan bustle, natural beauty, and tourist bounty,
plus gastronomical excellence. If it comes to choosing a Hawaiian
island holiday and you don’t know where to start, this is probably
the one for you.
For a relaxing, break, there’s golf, luxury resorts and well-being
spas, authentic Hawaiian paniolos (cowboys), and home-grown
coffee to get you through every fun-packed day. In the main city
of Hilo, you can buy anything you could desire, and this vibrancy
lends itself to farmers’ markets, art museums, street-side cafés for
people-watching, shops, and even a rainforest zoo.
But there is also so much more. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
is simply unmissable. Here are three of the state’s most stunning
volcanoes – two of which are active. Mauna Loa is the world’s
tallest volcano, while its little sister Kīlauea sits 2,743 metres lower.
This is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, with bubbling
lava and molten magma. Part of the same park is the world’s tallest
mountain (when measured from its seabed base), Mauna Kea.
The area’s geology is fascinating, even for amateur enthusiasts.
For those that can bear to tear themselves away from the
volcanoes, the black sand of Punalu‘u Beach in the south and
the nearby volcanic, geothermal baths are worthy of a visit,
as are the views from Waipi‘o Valley Lookout, from where
you can see the tropical beauty of the Valley of the Kings.
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:
• Be guided off-the-beaten path for an amazing blend of nature,
culture, and a little history around the Big Island’s most
awe-inspiring sites, and greet the day from the top of Mauna Kea.
• Take a scenic sunset cruise aboard a state-of-the-art catamaran
then strap on your snorkel gear and dive in.
• Get up close to gentle manta ray, when you snorkel in the waters
off the beautiful island of Kona – the only place this can be done
in the islands.
• Enjoy a private, curated beach experience from a traditional
luau to an intimate ceremony on Kona.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, advice on which island is right for you,
or to book your holiday to Hawaii, call our North America travel
specialists on 01242 547 717.
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:
• Soar above the traffic and twists of the road to Hana by
helicopter, passing over Haleakala volcano as well.
• Learn some new moves during a luau experience and participate
in traditional cultural dances followed by an authentic meal.
• Visit from December to March and view humpback whale passing
by from the comfort of your ocean-facing hotel room.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 31

MEET THE GUIDE
GARTH HOVELL
FOR 25 YEARS, A&K’S GARTH HOVELL HAS BEEN ONE OF AFRICA’S TOP GUIDES, IN DEMAND
BY THE MOST DISCERNING. HE TELLS ALICIA DEVENEY HOW HE’S NOW GOING GLOBAL
Named ‘Top Safari Guide’ at the 2018 Wanderlust World
Guide Awards, Garth Hovell is the real deal, with guests
calling him “the best – hands down”. Born in the Eastern
Highlands of what was then Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), the
43-year-old caught the wildlife bug early.
Aged five, he went to boarding school in Melsetter National Park
(since renamed Chimanimani), and was fascinated by the wardens.
“I would watch these guys who seemed so connected with nature
and the environment around them, and I just knew I wanted to be
like them,” Hovell remembers. Animal encounters were the norm
in the wild school grounds. “One day, I was running along a road
sloping up a hill with my head down and I heard a snort. I looked
up and there was an eland bull standing above me on the road. It
jumped right over my head and ran off into the bush,” he recounts
with glee.
During the school holidays, Hovell’s miner parents – who
moved to Botswana when Garth was 10 years old – took the
wildlife-obsessed boy to national parks all over East Africa.
And even when his parents couldn’t travel, Hovell wasn’t sitting
at home. Expat family friends would take Garth with them on
holiday. “Everyone knew I loved the outdoors and that I was
handy around a camp. A good kid to have around on safari,” he
laughingly recounts.
Upon leaving school aged 17, Hovell and his classmates were
all faced with the choice of university or an apprenticeship. For
the hands-on teenager, the decision was obvious, and he moved
to Victoria Falls to work towards his safari guide qualifications.
When he passed his Guide’s Proficiency Exam in 1998, he was the
youngest person ever to attain what was then the world’s most elite
guiding credential. “That year, 32 of us took the exam and only
three of us passed,” Hovell says with pride. The culmination of a
four-year apprenticeship, passing this exam licensed him to walk
unaccompanied with a rifle in any national park in Zimbabwe.
But as the political situation in the landlocked country
deteriorated and tourist numbers declined, Zimbabwe’s elite
guiding fraternity scattered. Thanks to the reputation they enjoyed,
they were highly sought-after all over Africa, and the world. Many,
including Hovell, who had moved to Zambia, set up training and
licence schemes, running guiding qualifications throughout the
continent. “I was on the Guiding Examiners’ Committee for the
South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks,” he says.
While working in Zambia, Hovell started to spread his wings.
“The season was short, and in the off-season I was guiding all
over the world. I worked in Australia, Russia, Malaysia; I did two
32 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

seasons in Ranthambore in India.” As well as tracking tiger, one of
Hovell’s favourite animals for its sheer power, size, elegance, and
majesty, it was in India where Garth met Lindsay, a Californian
whom he would later marry and return with to Zambia.
At around this time Hovell’s reputation as a guide came to the
attention of Abercrombie & Kent founder Geoffrey Kent. “Geoff
was looking for someone to conduct a VIP safari trip. He needed
a top guide and apparently my name came up a few times.” This
A&K safari would be the first of many and Hovell cites Kent as one
of his greatest influences. “Geoff is creative and brave. He thinks
outside the box. I learnt a lot from him.”
Another influential figure in Hovell’s career was Howard G.
Buffett, on whose advice Garth bought a decent camera and started
to hone his photography skills. He now acts as his guiding clients’
personal photographer, chronicling their journeys from South
America and Russia to Garth’s home territory of West Africa.
Clients hail him as an “excellent photographer” as well as praising
his “flawless guiding”.
Although lauded as a safari specialist, Hovell is now something
of a global expert – credit for which he gives to his parents, and
National Geographic magazine.
“When we moved to Botswana,
my parents bought hundreds of
National Geographics dating back
to the 1950s from another family.
We didn’t have a TV so that’s
how I entertained myself. I’ve
spent a lifetime learning about
the natural world.”
Aided by technological advances
and the proliferation of private jets,
Hovell is now able to lead
pan-African, pan-South American,
and pan-Asian trips with A&K from
his base in the UK’s Cotswolds. “In
the old days, you would go on safari for six weeks and maybe do
one country. Nowadays you can see six countries in two weeks.”
Does that mean that people are simply dipping into countries? Not
at all, he says: clients who travel with A&K want to be educated
and the role of the private guide is to impart in-depth knowledge.
Is there anywhere he hasn’t been, anything he hasn’t seen?
“I’ve been to Borneo several times and still never seen a clouded
leopard. And I haven’t really explored West Africa.”
Does he have a favourite destination? “Asia, and Central and
South America for their monumental archaeological sites; I’ve
been to Easter Island eight or nine times and seeing the moai
sculptures still wows me; but for sheer diversity of large mammals,
you can’t beat Africa.” For first-time Africa visitors, where would
Hovell recommend? “Africa has a way of getting under your skin,
it’s an evolution. First-timers go to Kenya and Tanzania. Then
Botswana and South Africa. And then, they start to go off-thebeaten
track.”
Has he ever been frightened for himself or his guests? “Sure –
not that they ever knew it,” he laughs. As he recounts campfire tales
of charging elephant protecting their young and other near-misses,
including saving a guest from a collision with the one car driving
along the one road in a remote desert, it becomes clear why truly
great private guides are so valued. “Guest safety is paramount. My
clients want to go to far-out places, often with their kids. And that’s
why I’m there: to be their safety net.”
When he passed his Guide’s
Proficiency Exam in 1998, he was
the youngest person ever to attain
the elite guide credential
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 33

34 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019
of Spain

SPAIN
IN SEARCH OF IBERIAN IDIOSYNCRASIES SCATTERED ALONG THE ROAD LESS
TRODDEN, PENELOPE RANCE TAKES A TOUR OF ANDALUSIA IN THE
COMPANY OF A&K REGIONAL EXPERT SIMON BUTLER-MADDEN
Hidden between the Costas and Córdoba, there is so
much more to southern Spain than a city break or
fly-and-flop beach holiday. A journey around
Andalusia unlocks a treasure trove of delights overlooked on
a standard Spanish sojourn. I am lucky enough to be escorted
by A&K expert Simon Butler-Madden, who opens the doors to
Seville, Córdoba, and Granada – and beyond, to the monuments
of the Muslim occupation and an unspoiled countryside of
pretty villages, rolling fields, and farms where fighting bulls are
bred and olive oil pressed, spread out beneath the white peaks of
the Sierra Nevada.
CÓRDOBA AND CASTLES
Our tour starts in Córdoba, once an important Roman city
set on the River Guadalquivir. At its heart is the Mezquita, a
cathedral built within a mosque. “Miraculously, unlike most
mosques in Andalusia, it was neither destroyed nor converted
into a church, but rather became incorporated into the Christian
monument,” says Simon. “In the 16th century, they built this late
Gothic, early Baroque Christian cathedral in the middle of the
mosque’s forest of arches.”
For an unparalleled view of the Mezquita, we walk over
another historic monument, the Roman pedestrian bridge
across the river, then enter the maze of whitewashed streets
and private patios with their famous flowers that make up the
Jewish Quarter.
After exploring CÓrdoba, we drive out of the city to the ruins
of the Palace of Medina Azahara which, until its destruction
in the 11th century, was alleged to be the most magnificent
building in Moorish Spain. A 24-kilometre detour takes us to
Almodovar del Río where, Simon promises, the beautifully
preserved castle is one of the most spectacular in the country.
THE ROAD THROUGH THE HILLS
Rather than following the herd on the charge to Granada,
we take a day to drive through the Subbética Córdobesa,
a landscape of rolling hills covered in olive trees. The road
leads south, through the town of Montilla, famed for its
sherry-style wines, which A&K can arrange for guests to
sample in a traditional winery.
Of late, Simon has favoured a pit-stop at Zuheros, a typical
village in the mountains, surmounted by a castle. “It’s a
marvellous place for walking up into. Next to Zuheros runs the
railway line once used to carry olive oil, which has been turned
into a walking and cycling track.” We hire bikes in Zuheros and
wheel 20 kilometres to Cabra, where our driver picks us up.
Cabra’s medieval centre, churches, and palaces merit an
exploratory stroll before we follow the pilgrims’ route to the
Hermitage of the Virgen de la Sierra. From here the road leads
to Priego de Córdoba, where A&K can organise a private visit
to an olive oil mill, and a walk through orchards harbouring
1,000-year-old trees.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 35

THE GLORIES OF GRANADA
In Granada, Simon sidesteps the cathedral in favour of the
exquisite Chapel of the Kings, created as the tomb of King
Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in tribute to their reconquest of
Moorish-occupied Spain.
But this city is famous above all
else for the Alhambra, the most intact
Moorish palace in the world. “It is
genuine Arabic architecture and the
tile-work is superb,” enthuses Simon.
“Built in the 14th and 15th centuries,
its highlight is the Court of the Lions,
with a fountain supported on six lions,
surrounded by columns, patios, and
reflecting pools.” Above the Alhambra
is the Generalife, originally a hunting
lodge and now the site of an early
20th-century reconstruction of
medieval Moorish gardens.
Across the valley sits Albaicín, an
Arab town preserved as a UNESCO
Heritage Site. “This is a perfect
Moorish town unchanged since 1492,
its tiny streets and alleys running up the hill,” reveals Simon.
“The streets smell like Marrakesh, with shops selling leather
goods from Morocco, and shisha cafés.” From the streets, we
take in sweeping views over the valley to the Alhambra, backed
by the snow-capped Sierra Nevada.
To the south is the Alpujarras, where we spend a day
exploring mountains, valleys, and villages – including Lanjarón,
famed for its mineral springs – which in the 16th century saw
the last resistance of the Moorish inhabitants.
UP INTO THE MOUNTAINS
The road to Seville takes us through a succession of villages,
among them Órgiva, where potteries still produce Alhambrastyle
tiles. We head along the dramatic Poqueira canyon, first
to Pampaneira, capital of the Sierra Nevada National Park, then
IT TOOK THE
MOORS SEVEN
YEARS TO CONQUER
SOUTHERN SPAIN.
THEN IT TOOK THE
CHRISTIANS SEVEN
CENTURIES TO
GET IT ALL BACK
up to Trevélez, the highest town in Spain at nearly 1,400 metres,
lauded for hams cured in the pure mountain air. At every turn
spectacular views, bubbling streams, or remote farmsteads
delight. “The English writer Gerald Brenan lived here in the
1930s and he was a great lover of Spain,”
says Simon, recommending the author’s
book South From Granada as holiday
reading. “You can still see the unspoiled
countryside fabled by Brenan in his
writing today.”
A second day en route to Seville is
spent in some of Andalusia’s enchanting
white villages. We stop in Ronda, atop
a cliff, and traverse the dramatic gorge
of El Tajo. One side of the town is little
changed since the time of the reconquest,
while on the other stands the oldest
bullring in Spain, dating from the
18th century.
Continuing through the ancient
landscape of the Serranía de Cádiz
mountains, we come to Ubrique, nestling
among forests of cork oak and indigenous
pinsapo pine. For centuries renowned for its fine leather goods,
the town still supplies fashion’s most famous names.
SEVILLE, A CITY OF TWO PEOPLES
“The Moors arrived in 712, and by 720, they had conquered
southern Spain. It took about seven years, and it took the
Christians seven centuries to get it all back.” Simon’s history
lesson underlines how large Arab heritage looms in Seville.
We begin at the Giralda, originally a minaret, and now the bell
tower of the cathedral. Commissioned in 1171, it is the twin of
the minaret of the Koutoubia in Marrakesh.
Another product of Seville’s dual heritage is the Alcázar, the
oldest functioning royal palace in Europe, built for the kings of
Castile after the reconquest. “But its origins go back to Moorish
times, in combination with more recent Arab architecture
36 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

SPAIN
called Mudejar, created by Muslim craftsmen living in a then-
Christian part of Spain,” says Simon.
We wander through the Santa Cruz district, its squares and
alleyways fragrant with orange blossom and jasmine, before
stopping at the Maria Luisa Park, created at the end of the
19th century and containing the Plaza de España, a massive
neo-Moorish structure with fountains and soaring spires,
used as a location for the 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia.
Often overlooked are the University, originally the Royal
Tobacco Factory, where, points out my guide, Bizet’s Carmen
worked; and the Palacio de las Dueñas, the Seville residence of
the Dukes of Alba, private entrance to which can be negotiated
on request by A&K.
Later we drive to Jerez de la Frontera, where, avoiding the
tourist traps, we sample sherry at the family-run Bodegas
Lustau, which dates back to 1896. Jerez is also famous for the
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, run by the Domecq
clan, with twice-weekly displays of dressage and country riding.
We end with a visit to the Doñana National Park, one of the
most impressive wetland wildlife reserves in Europe. Here A&K
can line up a tour with a professional naturalist, exploring areas
closed to the public. Simon suggests one last look at the green
hills of Andalusia from the Sierra Norte, and I cannot resist.
This is a land less travelled, and is all the better for it.
CÓRDOBA
SEVILLE
ANDALUSIA
GRANADA
previous page: Puente Nuevo Bridge over the Tajo Gorge, Ronda
from left to right: Medina Azahara, Córdoba; Trevélez in the Sierra Nevada;
Doñana National Park; Plaza de España, Seville; the Alhambra, Granada
DOÑANA
NATIONAL
PARK
JEREZ
SUBBÉTICA
CORDOBESA
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information on how to arrange a guided tour of
Andalusia, or to book your next Spanish adventure,
contact our Europe travel specialists on 01242 547 703.
SEVILLE
RONDA
ÓRGIVA
SIERRA DE CÁDIZ
MOUTAINS
SIERRA NEVADA
NATIONAL PARK
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 37

FIVE PLACES
TO PLAY
COWBOY
GRAB YOUR STETSON AND MOUNT UP – IT’S TIME TO MAKE LIKE
JOHN WAYNE AND HARRY THEM STEERS. A&K’S EXPERTS PICK THE
MOST AUTHENTIC WILD WEST EXPERIENCES ON OFFER
Cowboy fever has hit us hard – vast lands, big skies and outdoor
pursuits never seemed so appealing, and when you can get
off-grid without compromising on comfort, there’s every reason
to indulge. It’s not just the US that champions the cowboy. You can canter
through the Argentine pampas on horseback, watch high-speed barrel
racing in Calgary, or embrace a rustic ranch in Chilean Patagonia offering
one of the most authentic gaucho experiences out there. So, saddle up
for the ride of your life: from southern Australia’s rust-red Outback to
the sweeping desert plains of Arizona, here are five places where you can
round ’em up and head ’em out.
CÓRDOBA
ARGENTINA
Play out your cowboy fantasy on a working cattle farm in Argentina’s
stunning Córdoba region. Overlooking the foothills of the Sierra Chicas,
rippling pampas and infinite plains, Estancia Los Potreros oozes true
estancia life.
Dating back to the 16th century, this ranch-cum-organic farm has
been run by the Anglo-Argentine Begg family for four generations. The
farm was originally used to breed mules for the Bolivian mines. Today
you’ll see herds of Aberdeen Angus cattle and over 100 Peruvian Paso
horses as well as a number of sure-footed Criollo cattle.
Slip on your poncho to go steaming through the pampas or track
further afield to see rural homesteads and small communities. It’s also an
excellent choice for a family holiday. Children can roam around (safely)
in the 2,500-hectare working farm and swim in waterfall pools.
Back at the ranch, it couldn’t get more authentic than working
alongside the gauchos. Guests can try their hands at lassoing cattle and
rounding up the herd.
After days in the great outdoors, unwind in a hammock with a good
book. In the land of superlative steak and wine, food is a real highlight.
Gather around the wooden dining table for home-cooked empanadas,
sizzling asados, and the finest Malbec.
CALGARY
ALBERTA, CANADA
Every July, over a million visitors head to Calgary in Alberta to watch
‘The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth’. It’s a strong statement, but one
that’s entirely justified. The famed Calgary Stampede is where you can
go full Billy the Kid or Butch Cassidy – chuckwagon racing, horse riding
shows, one of the largest rodeos in the world, you name it. The event lasts
for 10 days but even after one, you’ll come out having learned how to
dress, act, and eat like a cowboy.
From sheep-shearing competitions to steer wrestling, there’s something
for everyone. You’ll need to reserve tickets to the most popular events
such as barrel racing, where women gallop on horseback at full-speed
around a series of barrels.
From as early as 6am, visitors amass for all-you-can-eat pancakes
loaded with bacon and maple syrup. Then there’s everything from
the obligatory steak to indulgent mac and cheese throughout the day.
Don’t forget to take home a legendary white cowboy hat, traditionally
bequeathed on visiting dignitaries including the Duke and Duchess
of Cambridge.
SCOTTSDALE
ARIZONA, US
It’s not just about Stetsons and leather chaps. For a taste of real-deal
cowboy life, head to Scottsdale, where you can sign up to cowboy
college. Here you can channel the rough ’n’ tough cattle wranglers whose
traditions continue on the ranches dotted throughout Arizona’s plains.
38 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

acacia trees and you’ll no doubt see emu or a family of red kangaroo.
Go for a bush walk Crocodile Dundee-style or join a field guide in the
evening to track nocturnal creatures. Guests also have the opportunity to
camp out under the shooting stars.
Highlights include a private flight over the Wilpena Pound, where you
can take in the mighty scope of its natural amphitheatre, and trips to the
scenic Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges. Sip on sundowners on the top of
a mountain ridge and return to your Outback lodge to dine on delicious
bush tucker.
PATAGONIA
CHILE
There’s no internet or a bar of phone signal here – just Patagonia’s
reverberating wilderness. It takes a boat ride and an hour’s drive on a dirt
road to get to Estancia Mercedes, a family ranch offering a true dose of
gaucho life. Chilean poet Pablo Neruda said, “he who does not know the
Chilean forests, does not know the planet”, and staying here among the
mountains, fjords, sea, and pines, that quote could not resonate more.
Expect authenticity – helping to lasso cattle and searching for herds
in the mountains. You can also enjoy outdoor pastimes, galloping on
horseback along ancestral trails or seeking out waterfalls for a quiet dip.
Or hike through native forest to the Cerro Mirador lookout point where
you can see ever-blue views of the Almirante Montt Gulf.
The main highlight, though, is joining the gauchos for the day,
rounding up cattle in the countryside. This is far from the tourist set up.
Head out into the wild, eyes peeled for roaming herds, and drive them
back to the corral with the help of steely dogs. After a hard day’s work,
share stories around the fire with your new cowboy family while tucking
into flamed steak and local wine.
At one of these ranches, wild-west fans can learn the ropes under
expert tutelage, riding Western style, practising horsemanship as well as
rope and wrangling techniques. Swing a lasso like a pro and master the
art of shoeing, then show off your skills at the gymkhana, jumping fences
and cantering around barrels – guaranteed family fun. Highlights include
cattle roundups and children’s camp specials that will have your Sundance
Kids reading animal body language and driving mini horse-carts. You’ll
also have the opportunity to ride out into the wide open spaces of the
prairie and camp out if you’re feeling more adventurous.
After days of working cattle, retreat to Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort
& Spa. Guests come here to lap up this desert oasis with waterways,
gondolas, and every bell and whistle – the flowering cacti and expansive
swimming pools are the perfect antidote to ranch work. You can knead
out any muscle ache in the spa.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your authentic cowboy experience,
call our travel specialists on 01242 547 760.
ARKABA
SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA
Australia’s Wild, Wild West can be explored from Arkaba, a former
sheep-station-turned stylish homestead set among 24,000 hectares of
private conservancy. On the edge of the eye-catching Flinders Ranges,
the landscape is a natural playground for adventurers, or anyone looking
to reconnect with nature. Drink in amber-coloured mountains and
golden plains, so expansive you could spend days exploring the
500 million-year-old red rock, fossils, and Aboriginal artwork.
While you can’t herd livestock any more at Arkaba, the removal of
sheep means that wildlife here gathers en masse, including the rare
yellow-footed wallaby and elusive quoll. Walk out among the creeks and
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 39

LOOKING FOR A BONDING EXPERIENCE THAT WILL BRING YOU CLOSER TO YOUR YOUNG
RELATIVES? TRY AN ADVENTURE IN COSTA RICA FOR FUN AND THRILLS ALL ROUND,
RECOMMENDS JANE DUNFORD
A
light mist hangs in the early morning air as our raft
navigates the curves of Rio Blanco. All around, tropical
foliage cascades down towards the water – and with
no one else in sight, we feel like true explorers on a jungle
adventure through an undiscovered land.
As we round a bend, our small group draws a collective
breath as our guide points to the riverside – there on the bank,
just a couple of metres away, a crocodile sunbathes, its mouth
ajar, looking like something out of the Jurassic period.
My niece Georgia snuggles a little closer to me, but she’s
mesmerised – and not for the first time on this Costa Rica
trip. We’re two days in and the animal kingdom has already
impressed, with everything from spider monkey to giant iguana
and colourful toucan. This tiny Central American country
(about the size of Denmark at 121 kilometres by 290 kilometres)
is home to an incredible five per cent of the world’s biodiversity
– and with some of the most enlightened conservation policies
on the planet, it certainly packs a punch when it comes to
brilliant wildlife experiences.
With its volcanic landscape, lush rainforests, and Caribbean
and Pacific coastlines, it’s a natural playground, but the tourism
infrastructure is impressive too – amazing lodges and hotels as
well as decent roads. So for anyone travelling with children it
strikes a perfect balance between comfort, safety, and adventure.
I don’t have children of my own and wanted somewhere
special to take my 12-year-old niece for an alternative family
holiday, somewhere she would remember forever.
Costa Ricans use the phrase “pura vida” (pure or simple life)
as a greeting and our week was to be an immersion in nature, a
bonding experience far from life back home.
A direct British Airways flight from London to the capital San
José, which launched mid-2016, makes travelling with children
much easier – and we spend a day exploring the museums and
Botanical Gardens.
But the real fun starts when we hit the road north – driving
through valleys of cloud forest, where waterfalls splash close to
the roadside and signs warn of monkey and raccoon-like coati
crossing. “It feels like we’re in The Jungle Book,” says Georgia,
wide-eyed as the dramatic scenery unfolds.
It’s a landscape that lends itself to countless activities – from
zip-wiring to canopy bridge tours, from white-water rafting
to scuba diving. We hike around soaring Arenal Volcano near
La Fortuna – and soak afterwards in the soothing waters of a
thermal spa under the stars. We venture north into the pristine
forests near the border with Nicaragua, enjoying kayaking river
trips and day and night walking safaris where we spot sloth and
the cartoon-like tree frog with its bulging orange eyes and feet.
Experiencing it all with a child in tow enhances the sense
of wonder – and as auntie/niece bonding time it couldn’t have
been better. A family holiday doesn’t have to mean one with
your own children – whether it’s a niece, nephew, grandchild,
or godchild who accompanies you, a Costa Rica holiday can’t
fail to be magical.
FAMILY-FAVOURITE ACTIVITIES
THE RAINFOREST AND SOUTH PACIFIC
Don’t miss a stay on the stunning Osa Peninsula, one of the
wildest and most remote areas of the country and home to
Corcovado National Park (recommended for children aged six
and over). Lapa Rios eco-lodge, high on a hillside overlooking
the ocean, makes a wonderful base, with beautiful bungalow
accommodation. From here it’s easy to explore the coast and
go dolphin watching (common, bottle-nosed, or spotted), as
well as whale watching in September and November. Children
can learn about rainforest conservation at Lapa Rios too, and
plant a tree with their name on it. The 400-hectare protected
national park has plenty of kid-friendly hiking trails, and the
lodge will provide junior-sized hiking boots. For a true cultural
immersion, families can visit Carbonera School on the edge of
the park, meeting schoolchildren and perhaps enjoying a song
or game of football. Energetic older children can learn to surf
on many beaches like Playa Pan Dulce, or kayak through the
picturesque mangroves.
TREE-TOP TOURS AND NIGHT WALKS
Around Arenal, an active volcano in north-western Costa
Rica, and Monteverde, an area to the south known for its
cloud forest, hanging bridges and trails, getting up close to
the rainforest is easy. Special naturalist guides lead small groups
on impressive Sky Walks through the canopy, 1,600 metres
off the ground, with the chance to spot countless bird species,
monkey and sloth, as well as learn about the ecosystem and its
flourishing plant and animal life. It’s full immersion in the sights
and sounds of the jungle – a winning experience for kids of
all ages.
For an alternative, heart-pounding journey, try zip-wiring
through the treetops and watch the jungle flash by as you whizz
along cables over canyons, flying between trees, with incredible
views in all directions.
After sunset, both Monteverde and Arenal are perfect places
for ground-level night tours. It’s an active time for varied
fauna, with diurnal animals seeking out places to sleep and the
nocturnal creatures waking up.
40 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

GEORGIA’S TAKE:
YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY
I loved Costa Rica, it was a great
experience – particularly seeing
animals up close in their natural
environment. My favourite part
was the river safari. It was very
relaxed and peaceful, even if we saw
crocodiles! I learnt a lot from our
guide. Afterwards we ground cacao
and made our own hot chocolate.
RIVER-BASED FUN
Criss-crossed by many rivers, Costa Rica has boating adventures
for all ages. For older children the thrill of white-water rafting
on fast-flowing Pacuare River, which runs to the Caribbean,
might appeal (ages 14 and up). The river gorge, flanked by steep
green walls, traverses virgin rainforest and is one of the best
places in the world for white-water adventures with dozens of
exciting rapids. There are plenty of options for more leisurely
raft floats (suitable for ages six and up), perhaps Balsa River in
Arenal or Penas Blancas near Nicaragua’s border.
Corobici in the Guanacaste region in the north-west is a
favourite too, the river bordered by tropical dry forest with
mahogany and ceiba trees. Whichever you choose there will be
wildlife aplenty from exotic birds to Jesus Christ lizard – named
for its ability to run on water – as well as morpho butterflies and
caiman.
Larger boats are used for cruises in some areas, such as Caño
Negro wildlife reserve – an important wetland area in the north
and an incredible place for wildlife-spotting in comfort.
WILDLIFE CLOSE-UPS
Any animal-loving child will be in their element at the Asis
Wildlife Refuge in Arenal. As well as getting up close to the
wildlife and hearing their stories, there’s an option to volunteer.
From learning about their diet and helping prepare food and
feeding them, to helping clean or repair enclosures, it offers a
unique insight into the animal world – with everything from
rescued snake to monkey and toucan or hawk.
The Tortuguero National Park on the Caribbean, famed for
turtle that nest here, is another must-visit. Green sea turtle,
leatherback and hawksbill can all be spotted here during the
summer months (especially green turtle from July to October).
Guides take visitors to the beaches at night to watch these
mesmerising creatures crawling onto the sand to dig nests and
lay their eggs – or if you’re lucky you might even see baby turtle
hatching and scuttling to the sea. Memories that will last forever.
SEA ADVENTURES
While land-based activities won’t fail to impress, the ocean
offers yet more brilliant family fun. From a catamaran or sailing
boat, the lushness of the coast is even more striking – and there
are pristine white coves and incredible coral reefs, rich with
marine life, to explore beneath the waves. The Gulf of Nicoya,
an inlet on the Pacific Ocean, is known for its enchanting
landscape, and places like Tortuga Island with transparent
waters that are home to giant schools of fish are snorkelling
heaven. The Gulf of Papagayo, off the north-western coast,
is another top spot with secluded beaches and great diving
and snorkelling.
The Pacific Coast is a surfing mecca with options for
all levels and ages. Stay at Lapa Rios or the Four Seasons
Papagayo for lessons with the pros – and wonderfully luxurious
accommodation at the end of a day on the water.
opposite: River-kayaking adventure
above: Jane and her niece Georgia
on a hike
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
A&K’s 12-night Active Costa Rica itinerary starts at £4,570 per
person (based on two sharing, includes flights, private transfers,
accommodation and selected excursions). For more information,
call our Latin America travel specialists on 01242 547 701.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 41

EUROPE’S BEST
BEACH BOLTHOLES
Whether it’s the desire for peace or the chance to loll
by the pool undisturbed, there are plenty of reasons
to choose a holiday in a villa. You could be a family
wanting quality time under one roof or a group of friends seeking
the ultimate jaunt – either way, combining the villa with the perks
of a hotel can really up the ante.
From all-singing, all-dancing resorts with every facility under
the sun to romantic whitewashed hotels with sought-after privacy,
here is our European roundup of the fabulous beach villas that tick
every box.
Best for wellness
THE MARBELLA CLUB, SPAIN
The low-down
The Marbella Club may have been around for 60-odd years, but
its charm remains irresistible. Stay here for a seamless blend of
restorative wellness in true Andalusian style. Talk to a life coach
who can orchestrate a tailor-made healing menu. Nutritionists,
naturopaths and personal trainers are also on hand to advise on
various detox, fitness, and de-stress programmes.
The villa
To take wellness to the next level, bunk down in Villa El Cortijo
(inset below), a two-floor home away from home. Rooms feel
fresh with sophisticated neutral tones, four-poster beds, paisley
throws, and deep bath tubs. Flop by the outdoor pool and enjoy
dinners on the terrace. If you’re with the family, children can
zip off and enjoy anything from gazpacho making lessons to
flamenco classes.
Best for families
PINE CLIFFS RESORT, PORTUGAL
The low-down
Overlooking the sweeping gold sands and rust-red rock of the Algarve, Pine Cliffs Resort
offers more than just a dose of sun, sand, and sea. A village-sized kids’ club complete with
two playhouse pirate ships (inset above) offers guaranteed excitement. It caters for toddlers
to teens and everyone in between. Sporting types can make use of the Annabel Croft Tennis
Academy as well as golf for both parents and children.
The villa
If you’re a large family or even two families together, you can enjoy doing as little or as much
as you want. The Retreat Villa (above) sleeps up to eight people, and comes complete with
an outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, and open-plan living room. The hotel chef can whip up celebratory
dinners or prepare outdoor barbecues so you don’t have to lift a finger.
42 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

Most romantic
THE GRACE SANTORINI, GREECE
The low-down
Sleek, chic, and deliciously romantic, the Grace Santorini (right) is
an all-white escape carved into the clifftops. Framed by minimalist
lines with a charcoal-beige colour palette, gazing over the sea-filled
caldera will keep you hypnotised for days. When the evening sets
in, take to the Champagne Lounge for legendary sunset views.
The villa
Hole up in this two-bedroom villa for undisputed privacy or a
romantic escape. Arrive to a pre-stocked fridge of goodies and a
seven-choice pillow menu. There’s a private swimming pool (inset
right) with gorgeous sea views, and your very own spa complete
with a hammam, Jacuzzi, and treatment room. Guests get first
dibs at the restaurant or can request a private chef to cook fresh
fish dinners. The on-call concierge can arrange island hopping by
helicopter or boat trips on the sparkling Aegean Sea.
WORDS: SACHA HARRISON
All bells & whistles
FORTE VILLAGE RESORT, SARDINIA
The low-down
There’s a reason why Forte Village Resort is repeatedly voted
World’s Leading Resort. Aside from the sweeping views of the
south-western Sardinian coastline, its five-star service stands
unrivalled. Think dinner orchestrated by Gordon Ramsay followed
by Andrea Bocelli for the evening’s entertainment. Stand out
facilities include an award-winning kids’ club complete with
Barbie VIP packages and an AcquaPark, as well as Versace and
Alberta Ferretti boutiques and an on-site Mahiki nightclub.
The villa
Villa Aurora reveals a contemporary chic space with polished
oak floors and alabaster walls. Sliding glass doors look out to
1,000 square metres of immaculate lawns and tropical gardens.
Lounge on the teak wood sundeck or under the shade of the
bougainvillea-covered pergola. A private chef and butler remain
at your disposal should you wish.
Most glamorous
BORGO EGNAZIA, ITALY
The low-down
Planted on Puglia’s Adriatic coast, Borgo Egnazia’s white tufo stone
walls resemble a gleaming citadel (inset left). Lap up celeb-worthy
service with local advisors on hand should you want to hire a bike,
make a spa reservation, or learn how to make orecchiette. Il Borgo,
the village-like square, offers buzzing restaurants and live music
at night, while sun worshippers can make use of the two beach
clubs nearby.
The villa
Villas here have names like Meravigliosa and Magnifica, befitting
their grandeur. The best bit is that you don’t have to share your
swoon-worthy pool with another soul, and you can enjoy citrus
gardens and private courtyards in peace. For ultimate glamour,
the owner’s seven-bedroom villa, Padronale (left), spreads over
500 square metres with ancient olive trees. Its enviable rooftop
terrace, lit by candles at night, is the perfect place for a nightcap.
The villa also comes with an on-hand masseuse, butler, and
local advisor.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
To book your next European beach and villa holiday, call our
travel specialists on 01242 546 611 or 01242 547 705.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 43

GRAND
DESIGNS
ESCHEWING COOKIE-CUTTER ARCHITECTURE AND COULD-BE-ANYWHERE
SURROUNDINGS, THE CLEVEREST HOTELS ARE PUSHING THE ENVELOPE WITH
EVER MORE CREATIVE SPACES TO STAY. IANTHE BUTT LOOKS AT FIVE
HEAD-TURNING PROPERTIES WHICH HAVE REINVENTED THE BAR
THE END-OF-THE-EARTH ONE: FOGO ISLAND INN, NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA
IN A NUTSHELL: A remote island retreat off the north-east
coast of Newfoundland famed for its showstopping criss-cross
architecture, created by Todd Saunders.
THE DESIGN BUZZ: Fogo Island Inn is a real celebration of
its rugged fishing village surroundings and traditional culture.
The area’s original settlers weren’t allowed to build permanent
structures, meaning they created wooden buildings which rested
gently on the coastal landscape using wooden legs or ‘shores’.
Similar columns can be seen supporting Saunders’ minimalist
structure, which is clad in locally sourced black spruce and was
constructed in collaboration with a host of resident craftspeople
and artisans.
THE VIBE: Natural history. Rough-hewn woods and earthy
colour palettes provide a backdrop for stylish furniture, flickering
fireplaces and snug nooks to hole up in. It’s the kind of place to
let creativity run amok, write a novel, or paint the ever-shifting
scenery; 29 rooms have spectacular views of the iceberg-studded
North Atlantic Ocean. Plus there are hot tubs and a sauna on
the roof, an art gallery, mini-cinema, and restaurant helmed by
Jonathan Gushue, which focuses on hyper-local ingredients
and, of course, fresh seafood.
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Hike the island’s ancient trails; go
fishing; try your hand at boat-building; and daytrip to Oliver’s
Cove or the Little Fogo Islands. Also spy on more of Saunders’
handiwork – he’s designed a number of artists’ studios on
the island.
44 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

THE OUT-THERE ONE:
SHIPWRECK LODGE, NAMIBIA
IN A NUTSHELL: In what looks like a surreal Dalí canvas, washed up in the striking
Skeleton Coast desert are ten shipwreck-inspired timber cabins and a restaurantlounge,
all with wood-burning fires and decked out with nautical curios.
THE DESIGN BUZZ: The sustainable-whizzkids at Namibian studio Nina Maritz
Architects were responsible for the bold rooms. Sustainably sourced timber panels
were prefabricated using laser cutters in Windhoek, before travelling a bumpy 10
hours overland and assembled on-site. As the lodge’s concession spans a 25-year
period, a leave-no-trace ethos was adopted, should it need to be dismantled in
future. Recycled plastic insulation and beechwood – rather than metal – nails were
used in the build, and electricity is solar and wind-generated.
THE VIBE: Otherwordly; each ‘boat’ is a snug haven, with slanted windows
which let in panoramas of oryx skittering over sand dunes and crow cawing
over the gunmetal-coloured waves of the distant Atlantic Ocean. The architecture
might be inspired by the area’s notoriety as a treacherous spot for sailors,
evidenced by the shipwrecks which line the shore, but interiors by Melanie van
der Merwe – antique chests, marine-hued velvets, and battered books – create
a cosseting atmosphere. She’s chosen to shine a spotlight on Namibian crafts:
bespoke furniture made by Namibian carpenters at Wild Wood; glittering
chandeliers and grape-like strings of beads created from upcycled old bottles
by Kabo Craft; and placemats made by underprivileged women as part
of a social enterprise in Windhoek.
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Visit real-life shipwrecks; lunch surrounded
by the unusual ‘wax-drip’ rock formations of the Clay Castles; search for
desert-adapted elephant and giraffe; or hang out with millions of seal at
Möwe Bay.
THE ADVENTUROUS ONE:
SHINTA MANI WILD, CAMBODIA
IN A NUTSHELL: The latest opening from hotel hitmaker
Bill Bensley, 15 custom-designed tents nestled in the southern
Cambodian wilderness, in a valley between Phnum Bokor and
Kirirom National Parks.
THE DESIGN BUZZ: Arrival is unconventional – after a road
or helicopter trip, guests can whizz along a 380-metre zip-line
through the treetops, into the landing bar – setting the tone for
a fun stay. “Too many hospitality projects take themselves too
seriously,” says Bensley, “and what is the point of that? I want
folks to laugh, learn, and remember where they have been.”
(Jeep transfers are available for those who don’t fancy an Indiana
Jones-style entrance.) Plush tents, constructed in ecofriendly
materials, are raised from the forest floor to help minimise
impact, and perch over rushing rivers and waterfalls –
meaning not only astonishing views, but natural cooling too.
THE VIBE: Wild at heart, with heart. While Bensley has said
interiors are a take on what a Cambodian safari might have
looked like if accompanied by Jackie O – think sofas adorned with
bright wildlife-pattern prints, deep iron bathtubs, and artefacts
sourced from flea markets and antiques fairs – and there’s a luxe
spa and forest-to-table cuisine. The project took shape as a way to
help protect the surrounding river valley from poaching, mining,
and logging, and supports local community projects.
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Take a boat along winding waterways;
join Wildlife Alliance Rangers checking camera traps; and go
foraging with the chef.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 45

THE ARTY ADAPTIVE REUSE ONE:
THE SILO, CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA
IN A NUTSHELL: A 1920s grain silo on the V&A Waterfront
reimagined as a luxe hotel atop a groundbreaking art museum,
masterminded by hoteliers The Royal Portfolio and Thomas
Heatherwick Studios.
THE DESIGN BUZZ: A real skyline gamechanger, at first glance
what’s most striking are the rows of statement pillowed glass
windows which bulge, bubble wrap-like, popping out a metre past
the historic building’s façade. These upper floors, in the former
grain elevator portion, house the hotel’s 28 rooms. What’s inside is
just as impressive, a soaring atrium with the central silos hollowed
out in mesmerising grain shapes and the Zeitz Museum of
Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA), the silo structures creating
natural divisions for gallery space in the building’s lower levels.
THE VIBE: Bejewelled industrial. Liz Biden wanted to “balance
the stark style of the architecture with aspects of classic glamour”.
This translates to scores of Egyptian crystal chandeliers, intricate
fabrics by Ardmore, velvet sofas in playful, opulent tones set
against concrete walls hung with contemporary art, plus historical
touches – the original grain hoppers sit in the lobby. Private
basement gallery the Vault holds biannual exhibitions, while
just downstairs at MOCAA (the first-ever museum dedicated to
modern African art) there are colourful images which explore
counter narratives by Athi-Patra Ruga (who’s just had his first
solo show at London’s Somerset House), and dream-like abstract
nudes by Banele Khoza.
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Scramble up Table Mountain; enjoy
killer mountain and ocean views from the rooftop pool; have
a romantic dinner at the Granary Café; or visit the adorable
penguin at Boulders Beach.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information on the best – and most interesting – hotels
in the world, and how to combine them with an A&K holiday,
call our travel specialists on 01242 547 760.
46 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

THE IMMERSED-IN-NATURE ONE: ARCTIC TREE HOUSE HOTEL, FINLAND
IN A NUTSHELL: Eye-catching cube-shaped cabins on stilts
by Studio Puisto Architects Ltd, in the heart of a pine forest
in Rovaniemi.
DESIGN BUZZ: The 32 woodland cabins are a riff on käpylehmä,
a traditional Finnish toy – a pine cone cow – often created by
children using pine cones and sticks for legs. The shingle-clad
timber structures appear frozen atop Syväsen hill, between
towering trees and rugged boulders, with the north-facing wall of
each constructed completely of glass to allow the snaking glow of
the Northern Lights to take centre stage.
THE VIBE: Cosy arctic mysticism. Decor was chosen to help
create a “safe, nest-like space”, with a riot of tactile throws
and furry cushions, caramel woods, and chrome touches. At
snowflake-shaped restaurant Rakas, chef Jonathan Guppy serves
up smart, seasonal Lappish cuisine with a twist, with dishes such
as wild reindeer in lingonberry sauce, potatoes with pine-infused
butter, and cloudberry baked Alaska.
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Come face to face with Santa Claus
at subterranean festive-themed Santa Park, just next door;
take a Finnish sauna in the Arctic Forest Spa; or travel across
the snow-covered landscape pulled by a team of huskies.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 47

JORDAN’S
SOUTHERN STAR
NEW FLIGHTS TO AQABA MAKE IT EASY TO COMBINE JORDAN’S ANCIENT SITES, DIVE-WORTHY
COASTLINE AND DRAMATIC DESERT. IAN BELCHER EXPLORES THE POSSIBILITIES
It’s a gloriously unexpected moment. I’m riding a camel
alongside Bader, my Bedouin guide, under a dark dawn sky
still frescoed with a wafer-thin moon and sprinkle of stars.
As we pad across the cold sand, the colour returns to the vast
grey landscape – a sudden stroke of deep ochre paint.
Fittingly, given that the palette evolves into a rich burnt
orange with the passage of the sun, I’m in one corner of Jordan’s
Golden Triangle: an intoxicating mix of tropical ocean, ancient
architecture and widescreen, bone-dry wilderness.
From this winter, you can see Bader, his camel and the
seductive trinity of attractions far more easily thanks to the
launch of economy flights into the southern city of Aqaba. The
relaxed Red Sea port with its relentless
sunshine, beaches and coastal mountains
makes a fabulously convenient base for
day-trips – or longer excursions – to
the Rose City of Petra and desert of
Wadi Rum.
There’s no need to hurry. I enjoy a
gentle couple of days among Aqaba’s
colourful locals, including blue and white
striped surgeon fish, purple tangs and
wafer-thin crown butterfly fish with vivid
scarlet daubs across their flanks.
Jordan’s 27 kilometres of coastline may be compact, but
snorkelling in the Aqaba Marine Park (a very acceptable 20˚C
in mid-winter) reveals several exotic denizens from the Red
Sea’s 2,148 species of fish. I hover alongside coffee and cream
lionfish with ethereally beautiful yet venomous spinal spikes,
before swimming through shimmering blizzards of silversides,
an experience straight out of Blue Planet.
Their home isn’t too bad either. The Yamanieh Reef, easily
accessible from the Berenice Beach Club, has over 200 flavours
of coral. I drift over waving cream sponges, delicate sea fans, and
‘I COULDN’T
LIVE ANYWHERE ELSE,’
WHISPERS MAHMOUD.
‘THE DESERT IS
MY HEART’
a neon green brain that’s both gorgeous and slightly alarming.
“Some corals have lived here for thousands of years,” boasts
Mohamed Abd El-latif Ali, the dive centre manager. “They’re
older than Jordan’s famous archaeology.”
They may well be, but Petra, the country’s most celebrated
historical site, is equally compelling – even if its beauty is
man-made. The UNESCO-listed Nabatean city with over 2,000
caves, tombs and temples cut into soft sandstone cliffs a couple
of millennia ago, is popular. Hugely popular. With local hotels
often booked up far in advance, Aqaba, less than two hours’
drive away, offers a viable alternative for anyone hoping to visit
without months of pre-planning.
Indeed the journey, cutting through
a dramatic and brutal landscape of
volcanic peaks, adds to the excitement.
The final descent into the folds of
the Shara mountains, followed by a
kilometre-long walk through the Siq,
the vertiginous cleft in the rocks, further
whets the appetite.
Even though I’ve seen Petra’s Treasury
via everything from Tintin’s adventures
to Indiana Jones’s, it’s still a showstopper.
The perfectly preserved façade
underlines how the Nabatean traders, after accumulating wealth
and travel miles, returned home to recreate striking foreign
designs from Greek columns and capitals to Egyptian obelisks.
To bring the almost overwhelming volume of architecture
to life, I have an expert A&K guide. Khaled Twaissi, who has
spent 39 years unravelling Petra’s secrets, shows me the grand
sights – the Monastery, Royal Tombs, Street of Façades – but
also the tiny but telling features: a circumcised fertility symbol
(at first glance I thought it was a spaceship), Greek graffiti and
the ceramic-lined royal water supply – ordinary mortals made
48 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

do with a sandstone canal. The devil is in the detail. Or in the
desert. My final stop, Wadi Rum, is relentlessly spectacular, and
relentlessly harsh.
I experience it in the safe hands of Mahmoud Zawaideh.
The Bedouin guide, raised among the sun-burnished cliffs
and multi-hued dunes with a sheikh for a grandfather, uses a
contemporary ship of the desert: a 4x4 Toyota Hilux.
We roam across interplanetary landscapes – inspiration for
film directors from David Lean and Ridley Scott to Michael Bay
– study ancient petroglyphs, and the towering slash of a valley
where TE Lawrence is said to have spent shady days among the
forces of the Arab Revolt.
The tour ends with tea beneath the pillowy dusk outline of
the Rum mountains. “I couldn’t live anywhere else,” whispers
Mahmoud. “The desert is my heart.”
Although only 45 minutes from Aqaba, I’d strongly
recommend staying in one of Wadi Rum’s camps. Not just for
the lamb, roasted in a traditional zarb earth oven, or for the
billion-tog duvet of stars, but for that sunrise camel ride. Yes, my
mount might have interrupted the immense poetic silence with
a mighty burp. Yes, I may have been serenaded by the timeless
ring of Bader’s mobile phone. But that magnificently abrupt
brushstroke of wilderness paint, followed by the eye-popping
speed of the sunrise – from sliver to burning orb in 60 seconds –
will remain with me to the end of my days.
from top: Wadi Rum; Black Rock Jetty, underwater in Aqaba; Dead Sea;
Petra’s Treasury; Aqaba Gulf at night
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your trip to Aqaba and Jordan,
contact our Middle East travel specialists on 01242 547 703.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 49

I WANT TO SEE A PUMA SO BADLY THAT
I THINK I MUST BE IMAGINING THINGS
WHEN SUDDENLY, I CATCH A GLIMPSE OF
A SANDY-COLOURED ANIMAL
50 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

PATAGONIA
PURSUITS
LEAVING BEHIND THE BUZZING STREETS OF
SANTIAGO, JAN MASTERS VENTURES INTO THE
WILDS OF PATAGONIA IN SEARCH OF ELUSIVE BIG
CATS, AND FINDS A SALVE FOR THE SOUL AMID
EMPTY LANDSCAPES AND JAGGED MOUNTAINS
When I try to pinpoint Patagonia on a giant globe, I’m
reminded just how far south it is, because I have to
lie on the floor to locate it. It really is a case of next
stop Antarctica. An untamed wilderness, geographically isolated
by the Andes, ice fields and oceans, it lies at the southern end of
Chile, extending into Argentina to the east. For me, it has always
conjured a sense of romantic drama. Of electric blue glaciers and
gauchos galloping across windswept grasslands.
Of condors wheeling over jagged peaks, and
empty roads that pursue endless horizons. So
when it comes to taking a holiday that offers a
truly meaningful break from urban stress, it is to
Patagonia I decide to head – or more specifically,
the Torres del Paine National Park, which has
been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1978.
Chile has recently created five new national
parks, preserving vast tracts of Patagonia and
representing the culmination of 25 years of work
by the late US philanthropist Doug Tompkins,
founder of The North Face and Esprit brands,
and his wife, Kristine McDivitt Tompkins, CEO
of Tompkins Conservation. Her recent handover
of over 400,000 hectares is considered to be the
largest donation of private land to a government.
With the Chilean president pledging another
three and a half million hectares, the country is
cementing its place as one of the global leaders
in conservation. And as the country has recently
marked 200 years of independence, it’s attracting
tourist attention like never before.
Any trip from London to Chilean Patagonia
is likely to be bookended with a stopover in the
increasingly cosmopolitan capital of Santiago, so
I spend a couple of days exploring. Each barrio
(district) has its own character and there are
museums, markets, buzzing bars, restaurants and
grand buildings aplenty, all lying in a valley with
the Andes as a towering backdrop.
Hotel Lastarria is my base, a boutique hotel in
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 51

the bohemian neighbourhood of Lastarria with easy access
to the city’s attractions. Built in 1927, its air of classical elegance
is offset with contemporary interiors. And with only 14 rooms,
this refurbished mansion still feels homely. The Deli Lounge
serves breakfast, tasty plates and snacks, and delicious wines,
and overlooks a quaint courtyard with a small pool. A shout out
here to the staff, who go the extra mile to make sure you’re
well looked after.
One of my favourite excursions is a tour of street art with a
genuine Chilean artist. Forget random graffiti, the San Miguel
barrio is home to the Museo a Cielo Abierto (the Open Air
Museum) where artists are selected to create murals that not only
enhance the properties but help with the ongoing rejuvenation
of the area. Another district well worth checking out is Barrio
Yungay, which is awash with historic and eclectically painted
houses and shops.
For a day out of the city, the impressive Santa Rita Winery,
only a 45-minute drive away, has plenty to offer beyond its
award-winning wines. The old estate house is now the grand
Casa Real Hotel and you can take a carriage ride around its
manicured gardens. There’s also an Andean Museum and the
Dona Paula Restaurant on site, and no trip is complete without
a wine tasting in the atmospheric cellars.
After my short stay, the call of the wild can no longer be
silenced, so I board my plane south to Punta Arenas, a threeand-a-half-hour
flight that skims the snaking Andes. There
follows another four and a half hours by vehicle to my ultimate
destination in the heart of the Torres del Paine, Explora Patagonia.
Here, it’s all about luxury served up in the heart of the
wilderness, and the lodge offers everything from great food and
wines to an indoor pool and open-air Jacuzzis. But it’s the setting
that’s a revelation. Lying on Lake Pehoé, picture windows frame
the Salto Chico waterfall and the Paine Massif ’s soaring torres
– three granite towers that give the park its name. Sustainably
managed, this is a hotel that minimises your eco footprint while
maximising the ‘ahhh’ factor after a long day’s exploring.
Let the adventures commence. I’m here in winter, which runs
from June to early September. Summer is predictably more
popular but all seasons have their charm – and changeable
weather. There’s a saying in Patagonia: “If you don’t like the
weather, just wait ten minutes.” I wrap up well for my first
morning trek around Nordenskjold Lake to see the Cuernos del
Paine, jagged columns of rock resembling horns. The water is so
glassy, it reflects the surrounding spectacular peaks perfectly. All
around are guanaco, an animal so synonymous with Patagonia, it’s
become the poster-child of the region. Related to the camel, it has
a long fluffy neck and lashes straight out of a mascara ad.
The sheer number of guanaco tells us one thing. There are no
puma in the vicinity. Good news for the guanaco, less so for me,
because part of my mission is to spot these big cats that venture
further down the mountains in winter. I am told by the guides
that we could be lucky and see one anywhere on our travels, and
that in said moment, we should remain calm, keep a respectful
distance and listen to our guides for safe instruction. Fingers
crossed, then.
Explora offers more than 40 daily excursion options that meet
differing fitness and experience levels, with some following parts
of the W circuit, a renowned trail that requires at least five days
of trekking if you were to go the whole 80 kilometres. Horse
riding with the gauchos is also a must, no matter your level of
experience. Once kitted out with a must-wear helmet, you can
take a gentle amble among skipping hare and strutting flamingo
or go flat out over the pampas.
A great hike is to Lago Grey. Crossing the hanging bridge
over the Pingo River and traversing a lenga forest, we reach the
shores of the Lake Grey, where too-blue-to-be-true icebergs break
off from the Grey Glacier in the distance. Another is around
Lake Sarmiento, a picturesque panorama of tranquillity. But as
inspiring as all this is, I still want to see a puma, and so far, nada.
The guides tell me a great chance to see one is on the Aonikenk
trek in the eastern part of the park, so I optimistically walk
through early morning snow. Halfway through the hike, we stop
to view a cave with 4,000-year-old paintings left by the indigenous
Aonikenk people. Fascinating, but puma count: zero.
52 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

PATAGONIA
Back in the van, returning to Explora, I scour the mountains
one last time. I want to see a puma so badly that I think I must
be imagining things when suddenly, I catch a glimpse of a
sandy-coloured animal way up high. A flash and he’s gone.
We stop the van and stay put in it to wait. And wait. Then he
comes back into view, zig-zagging down the rock face. Muscular
and powerful, he picks his way over rocks and pads across the
road ahead, looking back at us with piercing eyes. I return to the
hotel, suitably jubilant. Now if that doesn’t call for a pisco sour
in Explora’s cool bar, I don’t know what does.
previous page: A puma stalks the mountainside; riding with gauchos
above left: Guanaco against the mountains
clockwise from above: The bar at Explora Patagonia; murals in Santiago;
Lake Pehoé; Salto Chico waterfall; snowy pampas
photography: Jan Masters
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information on holidays to Patagonia, or to book your
next tailor-made Chilean adventure, call our Latin America
travel specialists on 01242 547 701.
WANT TO REALLY GET TO KNOW
SANTIAGO’S LOCALS?
A&K has created an experience that puts you at the heart of Chilean
life in a single evening. Dining with locals, usually at a private home,
you could be in the company of anyone from a local artist to a dynamic
young business couple.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 53

Party OF ONE
THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE SOLO TRAVEL: JOURNEYING ON YOUR OWN LEAVES YOU OPEN TO
NEW EXPERIENCES AND MAKES IT EASIER TO TUNE INTO YOUR SURROUNDINGS. AND JAPAN IS
THE IDEAL PLACE TO FLY SOLO, SAYS SACHA HARRISON
The idea of travelling solo was always so appealing; the
pure freedom, the new connections, my very own
meaningful experiences. When it came to booking, I
would often find myself on the verge, but would talk myself out
of it at the last minute. Questions tumbled in; what if I get lonely
or bored? Who would I talk to at dinner? Is this an odd thing to
do? I also questioned my safety – a very real concern, especially
for a lone female traveller.
That being said, one day I just woke up and booked a trip. The
first step to the most incredible journey on which I have ever
been – it was better than the most luxurious hotel and the most
exotic destination I had ever experienced. What made the trip
so special was the ability to design my own day, to develop new
relationships, and to make unforgettable memories that were
mine alone. It was hugely liberating and life changing in many
ways. Now I plan to travel solo every year. Next on my hit list: the
Land of the Rising Sun.
Japan is the perfect place for solo travel as there is so much
to see and do. From Tokyo’s neon skyline to Kyoto’s old-world
encounters, the country is a feast for the senses. Not to mention
the endless ramen and saké bars! Here are five reasons to travel
to Japan on a solo adventure.
FULL-THROTTLE TOKYO
Move over New York, this city really never sleeps, with its
bright neon lights, buzzing atmosphere, countless soba bars
and shopping meccas. If you want to make the most of Japan’s
capital city, dive into the deep end of its head-spinning culture.
Take a tour of Harajuku’s edgy youth-culture and hip cafés, or
visit Japan’s important Shinto shrines. You can even undergo
Samurai training, or learn how to make sushi at the world’s
largest fish market.
TRAINSPOTTING
We can’t list an iconic itinerary in Japan without talking about
the bullet train. The fastest locomotive in the world, you can
travel at 480 kilometres per hour from Tokyo to Nagoya in just
over an hour and a half – a hi-tech work of art. Don’t miss one of
the best views of Mount Fuji on the right-hand side. And while
the bullet train zips you out of the capital, the slower-paced train
to Takayama affords panoramic rural views of thick bamboo,
mist-swathed forests, and traditional villages.
SEE SHIRAKAWA-GO’S TRADITIONAL
GASSHO-ZUKURI HOUSES
Far from the bright lights of Tokyo, there’s a quiet magic to
behold in Japan’s rural regions. Shirakawa-go holds such charm,
untouched by modernity. Wander around the village, especially
fairytale-like in the snow, and see its clusters of thatched
gassho-zukuri houses, said to resemble the hands of Buddhist
monks. Stop to talk to farmers who raise silkworms throughout
the year, or take a walk around the lantern-lit rice paddies.
ANCIENT KYOTO AS YOU PLEASE
Once the country’s Imperial capital, the city evokes old-world
Japan with its kimono-wearing geishas, Zen temples, and the
feudal-era Nijo Castle with its original moats and stone walls.
You can easily tailor your day, perhaps learning how to make
traditional sweets in the 17th-century Nishiki market, or taking a
rickshaw ride around the lofty Sagano bamboo forest and buying
bamboo baskets from the local craft workshops. With so much to
do, explore the city as you please.
HIROSHIMA WITH AN EXPERT
Take the bullet train to Hiroshima, the site where the first atomic
bomb was droppedon 6 August 1945. Today you can still see
the ruins where this devastating attack took place. A specialist
guide is crucial in order to unravel the city’s poignant past with
true insight. Walk around the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park,
a legacy of the attack, detailing its history with pictures and
memorabilia. You can then take the ferry to Miyajima (‘Shrine
Island’), to see its floating red Torii Gate shrine.
SO HOW CAN YOU MAKE THE
MOST OF IT?
Take the pressure off with an escorted tour, offering experiences
that you may not be able to organise on your own. The time you
would usually spend thinking about getting from A to B could be
better used learning how to swing a Samurai sword or visiting a
fantastical Buddhist temple. And with no single supplements on the
first four places of our escorted Immersive Journeys, there’s never
been a better time to go it alone.
clockwise from top: Eating out in Tokyo; a typical gassho-zukuri house;
Torii Gate at Hakone shrine at Lake Ashi, near Hiroshima
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
A&K’s Journey through Japan: From Tokyo to Kyoto starts
at £6,740 (excludes flights). The first four solo places booked
won’t pay any single supplement. For more information,
call our escorted tours specialists on 01242 547 892.
54 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

abercrombiekent.co.uk | 55

NIMAL
TTRACTION
A VETERAN OF AFRICAN SAFARIS, NICK CURTIS IS STILL BLOWN AWAY BY THE
SHEER VARIETY AND ABUNDANCE OF THE WILDLIFE IN TANZANIA
There’s a theory that the most beautiful word in any
language is the one for butterfly. And a delightful
by-product of a stirring, four-day safari in the new
Sanctuary Kichakani Serengeti Camp in Tanzania is that
I learned that the Swahili for butterfly is kipepeo.
After he’d told us that, we charged our splendid A&K guide
Filbert Jacob with teaching us the Swahili word for all the
animals we saw. Not just thousands of nyumbu (wildebeest)
and pundamilia (zebra) making their ponderous, thunderous
migration across the vast Serengeti, but also kiboko (hippo),
several aggressive tembo (elephant, spoiling for a fight with each
other rather than us, thank goodness), and amazingly, six simba
wa kike (lionesses) drowsing in a tree.
56 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

TANZANIA
We parked breathtakingly close and watched them for a
good half hour from Filbert’s spanking new A&K Landcruiser.
Having previously been on safari in Zambia and Botswana, it
was delicious to experience once more the deep peace one gets
communing with the landscape of Africa and its inhabitants.
Although those previous trips had not prepared me for the varied
landscape – volcanic craters and boulders, hills and plains, jungle
and grassland – or the sheer vastness of the Serengeti. The name
means ‘endless’ in Swahili.
Sanctuary Kichakani is a mobile camp, which, mistakenly, calls
to mind a rough and ready caravanserai of vehicles and collection
of makeshift shelters, hastily erected one day and collapsed the
next, always on the move. Rather, the collection of 10 elegant
guest tents, the huge one containing the restaurant and lounge,
staff accommodation, kitchen, laundry, generator, and so on,
rotate between three locations in the Serengeti, where everything
is fully plumbed in on arrival (there’s running water to taps and
toilets, though the ‘bucket showers’ in each tent involve a steward
filling up a cistern). It takes three weeks to set up the camp in each
location, and a week to dismantle it.
Sanctuary Kichakani follows the course of the east to west
Great Migration of herbivores looking for food, and predators
looking for, well, herbivores. The location we stayed at was in
the elbow of a sunken river, where an unseen hippo burped out
his “haw-haw-haw” chortle during the garish sunset. We were
pretty impressed by that, the day we arrived. But late the following
afternoon, Filbert took us to a pond where 30, 40, maybe 50
hippo, ranging from tiny calves to humungous bulls, butted and
bellowed and splashed at one another, bathed in the golden light
of the low sun. To complete the experience, he handed us each a
chilled bottle of local Kilimanjaro beer.
I wasn’t prepared for the sheer number of animals we’d
encounter. In Botswana, we’d gone for hours without seeing
anything other than balletic red lechwe and colourful songbirds
– and don’t get me wrong, they were beautiful – and so our first
glimpse of a small lion pride was extraordinary, and the time a
leopardess and her almost-adult cub shadowed our vehicle was
heart-stopping. In Zambia, rangers brought us up close to a white
rhino, which was pretty amazing.
In Tanzania we tracked a distant dot that Filbert said was
a rhino, but otherwise we had an embarrassment of riches.
Countless zebra and wildebeest, travelling in an earnest,
purposeful line, or lowing and whinnying together as they
congregated in a flat, empty plain, too many of them to count.
There were huge groups of giraffe and water buffalo. I’d never seen
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 57

a Thomson’s gazelle or a hartebeest before, and here there were
scores of them.
We encountered several rambunctious bands of elephant,
and truculent herds of water buffalo. Shortly after we saw those
lionesses, we chanced upon three huge, bushy-maned adult
males sunning themselves on a volcanic rock. The small creatures
were no less beguiling. Here were jewelled lizards and birds,
and families of mongoose scampering out of our path. The only
downers on the wildlife front were the tsetse flies, which
seemed oblivious to insect spray, and able to bite through several
layers of clothing.
The quality of a safari is down to the guide, and Filbert, a burly
former accountant and father to a young daughter, was terrific:
funny, knowledgeable, easy-going, capable. When we sprung a
low puncture on the big Landcruiser, he changed it without a
blink, as we watched flamingo skimming a lagoon. We set out at
dawn most days, returning to camp for lunch on some occasions,
taking picnics on others. An alfresco lunch of cold chicken by
Gong Rock – a shard of lava that rings when struck with a stone
– atop a huge boulder, near to ancient Maasai paintings, and with
the scenery stretching for miles, will stay in my memory forever.
Meals back at camp were informal but the fare surprisingly
sophisticated – a chilled soup to start, followed by a sumptuous
buffet of salads, meatballs, chicken, and pork, and on one
occasion a barbecue of unfathomably tender Tanzanian beef
around the campfire. The bar was well stocked, not only with local
wine and beer and international spirits, but with books, games,
and sofas to lounge on. Bread and pastries at breakfast were
excellent, and the fruit out of this world.
On our first night, we were alone in camp, with the entire staff
of 22, at our disposal, which was a little overwhelming. And to be
honest, I never quite got used to the constant attention of our tent
steward, Rama, who walked us back to our tent at night, woke us
with fresh coffee and handmade biscuits each morning, and filled
up our bucket shower when we asked.
The tents themselves are a modern take on classic safari styling,
with lots of canvas, zips, and straps, and a veranda at the front for
a gin and tonic at sundown. There was also an outdoor washstand,
and I took great pleasure in shaving in the dying sunlight before
dinner. On our last day, as we waited to board the puddlejumping
plane for a series of short hops back to Arusha airport,
Filbert expressed regret that he hadn’t been able to find a duma
– a cheetah – the only animal I’d expressed a great desire to see. It
doesn’t matter. It gives us an excuse to go back.
58 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

TANZANIA
SOUTH-SIDE STORY
Safari-lovers go to Tanzania to see game, take a walk on
the wild side, and get back to nature. Tanzania’s north is
well known to tourists thanks to the Great Migration and
the millions of wildebeest that cyclically move around the
Serengeti and into Kenya’s Masai Mara. The upper part of
the country is home to the superlative-defying Ngorongoro
Conservation Area. Once a titanic volcano, the crater was
named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for being the largest
unbroken caldera. But there is a downside to this fame:
tourist-carrying vehicles sometimes have to queue to gain
entry to Ngorongoro, and in the Serengeti, there are over
130 lodges, hotels, and camps. For those seeking rawer,
wilder, and emptier Africa, southern Tanzania is extolled as
the real deal: authentic and off the tourist radar – closer to
the Africa of the great white hunters (and more palatably,
explorers) like Frederick Courteney Selous, who the Selous
Reserve is named after. This vast reserve, covering more than
50,000 square kilometres of south-east Tanzania, is twice
the size of Wales and the second largest conservation area
in all of Africa. There is an abundant population of hippo,
giraffe, cheetah, and leopard. It’s also home to the continent’s
largest population of wild dog. It was listed as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 1982, in recognition of its outstanding
universal value as one of the last remaining large tracts of
wilderness in Africa. To the west of Selous, Ruaha National
Park is little known, and at its heart runs the Ruaha river. It’s
larger than the Serengeti (20,260 square kilometres to the
Serengeti’s 14,763) and only receives six per cent of its visitors
(20,000 annually in comparison to 350,000). It’s famed for
its elephant and buffalo – who perform a mini-migration here
annually. There are also 570 species of birds and it’s home to
ten per cent of Africa’s total lion population, where they live in
super prides. AD
previous page, clockwise from top left: Wildebeest; tented luxury at Sanctuary
Kichakani Serengeti Camp; a lion; campfire views at Kichakani
clockwise from top left: The communal area at Kichakani; exterior view of the
tented camp; zebra; spot the cheetah
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your safari adventure in Tanzania,
contact our Africa travel specialists on 01242 547 702.
SELOUS
When to go:
From June to October, it’s
dry and warm (16-35°C);
November to December, it’s
spring in Selous and there
are short rains; November
to March, it’s the hottest
part of the season with
temperatures rising to
40°C; April to May, camps
are closed for the long rains.
Where to stay:
Azura; Siwandu;
Roho Ye Selous
RUAHA
When to go:
From June to November,
it’s dry and warm (high 20s
during the day); December,
Ruaha only has one annual
rain cycle and it happens
during this month; January
to March is springtime in the
park and migratory birds
return to breed; April to
May, camps are closed.
Where to stay:
Jongomero Camp;
Jabali Ridge
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 59

ALTERNATIVE
INCA TRAILS
WANT TO EXPERIENCE PERU’S MOUNTAINS WITHOUT TAKING ON
THE MADDING CROWDS? NEVER FEAR, SAYS A&K’S GRAEME BULL:
THERE’S MORE TO THE ANDES THAN MACHU PICCHU
You may have heard of the Inca Trail – a four-day hike over 42 kilometres,
which is on just about everyone’s travel bucket list. But while millions flock
to this very beaten track, trekking off-piste can be hugely rewarding. Visit
sites that rival Machu Picchu such as Choquequirao, Peru’s unsung citadel. or take
paths that lead you deep into the Andes without seeing another soul. Who needs
the Inca Trail? Here are five alternative hikes.
NOT SO LITTLE SISTER
Experienced hikers should revel in this lesser-known trail.
Referred to as Machu Picchu’s little sister, the hilltop complex
of Choquequirao dates back to the 15th century. Currently,
the site is only accessible to those willing to take a five-day
hike (60 kilometres) across steep canyon slopes, snowy
mountains and jungle terrain. Unlike its bigger sibling, only
64 kilometres away, which sees over a million visitors per year,
this archaeological site receives only a dozen or so people each
day, who can explore its stone terraces, green plazas and holy
temples in peace. And although Choquequirao hasn’t quite
reached the same iconic status as Machu Picchu, there’s talk of
a cable car for those who don’t want to trek. On the horizon,
there may also be a road connecting it to Machu Picchu. But
for now, hiking means that you can take in a marvellous Inca
site in rare solitude.
DURATION: Five days, or eight should you want to end at
Machu Picchu
BEST SUITED: Intrepid travellers
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 2,896m
A SAVAGE CHALLENGE
Those game for a challenge may want to consider the
Salkantay trek, which includes a mountain pass that reaches
just over 4,572m. You’ll be rewarded for your endeavours with
Salkantay’s raw peaks (Salkantay means ‘savage’) and a journey
along rocky pathways once trodden by the Incas.
En route you can meet Quechuan-speaking indigenous
communities tucked away in the mountain landscape. On your
last day, descend into tropical terrain where adrenalin junkies
can whizz over the jungle canopy on one of South America’s
longest zip lines. End at the Hydroelectrica station, a 45-minute
train journey to Machu Picchu Town. You could camp, but the
hot tubs and deep duvets at Mountain Lodges of Peru along the
trail will help you recuperate after days of adventure.
DURATION: Five days
BEST SUITED: Experienced hikers
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 4,633m
60 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

BEAUTY FOR ALL
One of the most stunning treks in Peru, the terrain on
the Ancascocha route varies from the exposed foothills
of the Andean peaks to the fabled Queuñas forest. With the
help of horses who’ll carry most of the load, the trek isn’t too
strenuous – a good one for adventurous families.
Trek up trails carved by the Incas and take in emerald
lagoons. You can explore traditional stone houses in remote
farming villages, and if you’re lucky you may see a condor or
two. A chef will whip up lunches alfresco and every evening
you’ll arrive at camp in time for happy hour.
DURATION: Three days
BEST SUITED: Those who like off-beat adventures
with perks
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 4,694m
A ROYAL VISIT
Follow the trail to Huchuy Qosqo or ‘Little Cusco’, believed to
be a royal estate of the Inca Emperor, Viracocha. Arrive at the
scenic Laguna Piuray, where horses will be waiting to carry
your bags. As you traverse the countryside and along mountain
passes, you’ll come across jewel-like lakes and plenty of
endemic flora and fauna. You won’t see many people, but you’ll
be confronted with wild Andean views and herds of curious
llama. Stop at an ancient quarry where the Incas cut stones
to build Huchuy Qosqo. After wandering the site with your
history guide and refuelling on deluxe picnic fare, you
can hitch a ride with our 4x4s that will take you down to
the Sacred Valley.
DURATION: Two days
BEST SUITED: Families and those short on time
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 4,450m
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to book your Andean adventure,
contact our Latin America travel experts on 01242 547 701.
WALK THROUGH HISTORY
Set off along rarely visited ancient Inca roads which wind
through rolling valleys and past high-altitude lakes. Pop into
villages where traditionally dressed farmers live a lifestyle
unchanged for centuries. Every night arrive at your campsite
set up with double beds and hot showers to soothe any aching
muscles, not to mention three-course dinners with your
favourite tipple and decadent picnics with wow-factor views.
If camping’s not your style, then Mountain Lodges Peru offer
post-hike cocktails and plush beds along the way. For those
who don’t want to miss out on trekking to Machu Picchu,
combine this route with a night in a Sacred Valley hotel. The
next day, take a train ride to the KM 104 trail, skipping most
of the crowds, and climb the final seven miles of the main Inca
route to Machu Picchu’s Sun Gate.
DURATION: Four days, or five if you want to end at
Machu Picchu
BEST SUITED: Those who like hiking with added luxury
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: Around 4,572m
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 61

A&K VILLAS'
FAVOURITES
FOR 2019
As with children, we know you shouldn’t play favourites, but sometimes it just can’t be helped… Infinity pools, moats, gyms, tennis courts,
voice-activated assistants, wine cellars, yoga pavilions, turrets, helipads, private cinemas – at A&K Villas, we know the features that really wow
our guests. And then there are some villas with a little something extra, a certain je ne sais quoi that our villas specialists fall for and ensures
that these rental properties are always on the tips of their tongues. Read on to discover which properties are our picks for 2019.
Le Mas des Papillons, France
BEST FOR: A RURAL ESCAPE
This 18th-century stone farmhouse-turned-villa shouts
quintessential rural France. White wooden shutters fling open to
Luberon landscapes and three hectares of manicured lawns, olive
groves, and avenues of lavender. Inside, the open-plan kitchen and
sitting room boast original wood beams offset by chic gunmetal
and tones of pale grey. Rustic meets contemporary country-style
in the five bedrooms, all fresh with omnipresent light. Lounge on
soft wicker sunbeds by the aquamarine pool and enjoy long, lazy
lunches in the shade of the patio.
62 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

Mas Mateu, Spain
BEST FOR: CELEBRATING THE RIGHT WAY
Mas Mateu is one for the elite. Within an 18th-century estate,
glass walls set in stone overlook the Catalonian countryside and
snow-capped Pyrenees. The residence is run by a legion of staff
complete with a chef and sommelier, who wouldn’t be out of place
in Michelin-starred restaurants. Sleeping 20, perfect for parties,
rooms boast vaulted ceilings, fireplaces, and private terraces.
Relax by the outdoor pool, in the spa and home cinema. Horse
riders will love the equestrian centre often used by the Spanish
Olympic team. Children can burn energy on the basketball court,
football field, and in the expansive grounds.
Podere San Giorgio, Italy
BEST FOR: CHARACTERFUL RETREATS
Once owned by nobility, Podere San Giorgio remains
the grandest of Sicilian villas, complete with a private
chef, concierge, and views of Mount Etna. Interiors
feel colonial-esque with terracotta tiles, striped sofas, a
large stone fireplace, and Aztec rugs. Eight old-world
bedrooms are decorated with antique furniture and
vintage ornaments. Hang by the outdoor pool reminiscent
of a Slim Aarons photograph, or take a stroll around
the private palm tree collection and orange groves. Play
a game of tennis or a spot of cricket, before the sauna
provides the perfect antidote to all that activity.
akvillas.com | 63

Villa Oaza, Croatia
BEST FOR: WELLNESS WANDERERS
When it comes to Villa Oaza, it’s not all location, location,
location – although the accommodation places you in the
heart of Hvar’s Old Town, moments from the promenade
and marina. It’s so much more – from the Baroque façade
of this 16th-century house to the refurbed interior, and
lavender, jasmine, orange, and lemon blossom-filled gardens.
The interior has been transformed into a lavish wellness centre
with sauna, Jacuzzi, and massage room waiting to centre you
after you’ve spent a long day exploring this long, slender island
in the Adriatic. Stari Grad Plain is a UNESCO World Heritage
Site – its location is the home of olive groves planted by Greek
colonists over 2,500 years ago.
Simeroma, Crete
BEST FOR: SUN WORSHIPPING IN STYLE
Where else could the king of the gods, Zeus, have been
born than the island of Crete? Set in the cerulean blue of
the Aegean, Crete has retained its natural beauty, as well
as its wealth of history. Elounda on the island’s northern
coast is centred around a picture-postcard harbour from
which you can sail to Spinalonga. Nearby is the subtle but
luxurious rental, Simeroma. From the Steinway grand
piano in the library to the artwork – both sculpture and
pictorial – touches of classic style are never lacking.
Wander through the ancient olive grove, play a match on
the Davis-Cup-sized court, while away an hour on the
croquet lawn or, of course, drink in the sun and sea views.
A villa fit for a god, or king – or both.
64 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

OUR
FAVOURITE
FAVOURITES
GERMANY
PORTUGAL
Algarve
Bordeaux
Biarritz
SPAIN
Andalusia
FRANCE
Dordogne
Provence
Languedoc-
Roussillon
Catalonia
Majorca
Ibiza
Côte d’Azur
Corsica
Sardinia
Venice
ITALY
Lake Como
Tuscany
Umbria
Rome
Amalfi Coast
Sicily
CROATIA
The Islands
Split
Puglia
Dubrovnik
GREECE
Mykonos
Santorini
Crete
Portugal
Casa Florianne, Algarve, sleeps 10
Villa Saranza, Algarve, sleeps 8+2
Spain
Can de la Roca, Majorca, sleeps 6
Can Jardi, Majorca, sleeps 10
Can Masta, Majorca, sleeps 8+2
Casa Viva, Majorca, sleeps 6
La Luna Rey, Majorca, sleeps 6+4
La Maroma, Andalusia, sleeps 8
Mas Mateu, Catalonia, sleeps 18+17
Pedra d'Or, Majorca, sleeps 10
San Mariana, Majorca, sleeps 16
San Raffa, Majorca, sleeps 8+2
Villa Estila, Majorca, sleeps 8+6
Villa Jondal, Ibiza, sleeps 6
Italy
Borgo di Campioni, Tuscany, sleeps 10
Casetta nel Chianti, Tuscany, sleeps 8
L'Olivo, Umbria, sleeps 12
La Limonaia, Tuscany, sleeps 16
La Perla, Amalfi, sleeps 12
Parco del Principe, Tuscany, sleeps 16
Podere San Giorgio, Sicily, sleeps 16
The Casina, Tuscany, sleeps 2
Villa Cetinale, Tuscany, sleeps 23+4
Villa Nereo, Tuscany, sleeps 14
Croatia
Plavi San, Dalmatian Coast, sleeps 8
Villa Oaza, Hvar, sleeps 10
France
La Borie, Provence, sleeps 10
La Maison du Chais, Bordeaux, sleeps 10
Le Mas des Papillons, Provence, sleeps 9
Le Mas des Roses, Provence, sleeps 14
Le Mas des Trois Platanes, Provence, sleeps 15
Les Terrasses, Côte d’Azur, sleeps 6+4
Villa Jasmine, Côte d’Azur, sleeps 8+2
Villa Mia, Côte d’Azur, sleeps 10+1
Greece
Simeroma, Crete, sleeps 12+4
Villa Cien, Crete, sleeps 16
Villa Iranai, Crete, sleeps 8
Villa Kamari, Santorini, sleeps 6+2
Villa Octavia, Crete, sleeps 6
Zarassi Estate, Mykonos, sleeps 26+4
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT VILLAS
For all villas holidays, we advise early booking. For more information,
or to discuss a reservation, call our villas specialists on 01242 547 705.
akvillas.com | 65

Pole position
MARKING 200 YEARS SINCE MAN FIRST LAID EYES ON ANTARCTICA, SACHA HARRISON
PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE EXPLORERS WHO FIRST BRAVED THE SOUTHERN OCEAN
It is almost two centuries since Nathaniel Palmer, heading
south on a sealing expedition, laid claim to the discovery of
Antarctica, that beautiful but brutal landscape that has captured
the imaginations of explorers ever since.
Around the South Pole lies a frozen, wind-torn landscape of
floating ice, oily gunmetal seas, and arresting snow-clad peaks.
It’s one of the most severe yet stunning places on Earth, where
no terrestrial mammals exist and marine creatures thrive freely. The
fifth largest continent in the world, this southernmost landmass is
virtually uninhabited by humans, save for a few hardy scientists and
engineers holed up in stark research stations. A land so remote that
it was only discovered in 1820.
It was a big year for explorers during the height of nautical
expeditions, when success lay in tales of derring-do. Nathaniel
Palmer, a young American from Stonington, Connecticut, was
preparing to venture to the ends of the Earth.
Palmer first went to sea at the age of 14 as a sailor on a blockaderunner
in the War of 1812. At a young age, he had all the makings
of an ambitious explorer. In a time when the sealing industry
dominated Stonington, he quickly became a skilled hunter, joining
the fleet in search of rookeries that lay on the South Sea horizons.
In the early days of his career, Palmer served as second mate
onboard Hersilia, the first American ship to reach the South
Shetland Islands.
Together with his crew, he returned to Stonington with as many
as 8,868 fur skins in one season. When the islands grew depleted,
he looked to push his adventures further south.
Success earned Palmer command of his first ship at the tender
age of 21. His vessel? A 47-foot sloop named Hero with a mission
to further scour the South Shetland Islands and their surrounds for
new sealing territories.
It was from the eerie caldera of Deception Island that he first
caught sight of a swathe of polar coastline, later confirmed as the
western tongue of the Antarctic Peninsula, “a snug Antarctic haven”
known today as Palmer Land. Sailing across the wild stretch of
the Drake Passage, he entered iceberg-studded waters where he
identified Antarctica at 63°S in the Orleans Channel, but no furseal
rookeries. As he travelled closer, he saw leopard seal dotted
on the beaches, but an inhospitable shoreline and his duty to his
crew compelled him to return home without setting foot on the
untouched continent.
Who exactly discovered Antarctica remains controversial to this
day. Two other explorers, Fabian Gottliev von Bellingshausen, a
Russian naval officer, and Captain Edward Bransfield, an English
explorer, both reported Antarctic sightings earlier in the same year.
Two centuries later and the frozen continent remains shrouded
in mystery, but it is Palmer’s legacy that lives on. While the
American explorer found the shore inaccessible, today Antarctic
exploration is a much less hazardous experience. A far cry from
Hero’s shallow draught, modern-day luxury cruisers come complete
with high-end navigational equipment and eco-friendly technology.
Not to mention butler service, private balconies, and expert
naturalist guides.
In what was once a hostile environment, intrepid travellers
can experience Antarctica’s frozen beauty on a once-in-a-lifetime
expedition. Follow in Palmer’s wake on an A&K Luxury Expedition
Cruise. A special-edition voyage, Antarctica Discovery: Palmer’s
Bicentennial Expedition, is setting sail aboard the luxurious
Le Lyrial in January 2020.
Weather and conditions allowing, the cruise will visit the blacksand
beaches of Deception Island, peppered with penguin. Some
of the most exciting marine biology research can be seen at Palmer
Station, grafted into the rocky Anvers Island. Then venture all the
way to wildlife-rich Marguerite Bay, the southernmost point of
Palmer’s expedition. Located 66°S of the rarely-transited Antarctic
Circle, discover an epic wilderness in the world’s final frontier.
main: Adélie penguin
clockwise from top left: On deck aboard Le Lyrial; Le Lyrial in Antarctica;
a Le Lyrial cabin; a Zodiac excursion; Palmer Station; seal watching
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
A&K’s 14-night Antarctica Discovery: Palmer’s Bicentennial
Expedition, departing 16 January 2020, starts at £16,070
per person (based on two sharing a Classic Balcony
Stateroom, excludes flights). For more information, call our
luxury expedition cruising specialists on 01242 547 892.
66 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

abercrombiekent.co.uk | 67

ACCESS
SOUTH-EAST
ASIA
MINGLE
WITH MONKS, TAKE TEA AMONG TEMPLES OR KICKBOX
WITH THE MASTERS AS YOU DISCOVER THE BEST OF SOUTH-
EAST ASIA, WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM A&K, SAYS JOE MEREDITH.
ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: ALEXANDRA ROBERTSON
South-east Asia is a place of spirituality and personality.
Contrasts abound, with tranquil temples tucked away just a
few streets from urban centres, and dense jungle giving way
to gorgeous, golden coast. Countries such as Thailand are
well-established as holiday destinations – Bangkok is the world’s
most visited city by international tourists – whereas Laos and
Myanmar are still on the up. This means, whether you’re drawn
to the most popular sights or pursuing the path less travelled,
there will be something here for you.
A&K has in-country offices across South-east Asia, so we’re
able to deliver a five-star experience first-hand. For something a
little bit special, we’ll pull strings to give you access few others are
privileged to. Fancy a private helicopter ride to secluded jungle
temples? No problem. Want a masterclass in everything from
martial arts to authentic cooking? It’d be our pleasure. Here is just
some of what we can offer in this captivating region.
Cultural highlights
CAMBODIA | CIRQUE DU PHARE
A gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage region of Angkor,
Siem Reap offers ancient temples, vibrant nightlife and eclectic
museums. For something a little more fast-paced than the city’s
hypnotising Apsara dancers, Phare, The Cambodian Circus, is just
the thing. The performing arts group combines folkloric theatre
with gravity-defying circus skills for a crowd-pleasing spectacle.
With A&K, you can enjoy the full VIP experience: a premium seat
inside the circus tent and a one-hour show courtesy of Phare, all
rounded off by an exclusive dinner with the performers and director.
Note: Dinner is subject to the availability of the artists and director
LAOS | HELICOPTER TO THE JARS OF GIANTS
Scattered across the green valleys of Xiangkhoang Plateau lie
hundreds of huge, ancient containers carved from stone. Collectively
referred to as the Plain of Jars, this mysterious archaeological
landscape has fascinated locals and historians for centuries. Little
68 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

SOUTH-EAST ASIA
is known about the civilisation which created it, though tall tales
abound – including some pointing the finger at giants. We can
arrange a scenic helicopter flight out from Luang Prabang or
Vientiane to this unique site. Upon arrival, enjoy a guided tour by an
expert, followed by a picnic arranged just for you. As you gaze out
over the fantastical landscape, let your imagination run wild with
the myths and legends surrounding these Laotian marvels.
MYANMAR | CAPTURE THE MOMENT
Myanmar is chock-full of attractions, from teetering stupas and
Buddhist shrines to colourful markets and hilltop villages. But when
it comes to travel photography, sometimes a selfie-stick and smart
phone just won’t cut it. So you can capture this country at its best,
we can arrange for a professional photographer to accompany you
during a city excursion. Whether you’re in Yangon admiring the
Shwedagon Pagoda, touring Bagan’s ancient temples or cruising
along the Irrawaddy in Mandalay, the photographer will snap
expertly framed, candid pictures for you to cherish. Alternatively,
they can act as a photography instructor, helping you with the
fundamentals and encouraging your own style.
THAILAND | A MUAY THAI MASTERCLASS
Both a contact sport and centuries-old martial art, Muay Thai is
esteemed in Thai culture. It has steadily grown in popularity over the
years, and you’ll now find gyms across the world offering lessons.
If you fancy getting to grips with the basics, or know a thing or two
and are ready to kick it up a level, where better to learn than the
art’s heartland? In Thailand’s capital of Bangkok, A&K can arrange
a private masterclass with an experienced trainer. You’ll leave with
a deeper understanding and appreciation of this unique style of
kickboxing (and feel as though you’ve had a thorough workout).
Note: Maximum of two people per class
Fabulous food
MYANMAR | WINE AND DINE ON TEMPLE GROUNDS
The ancient city of Bagan was once the capital of the Pagan
Kingdom, a civilisation which ruled the Irrawaddy valley for
centuries. Almost a millennium later, many of its towering temples
and pagodas have stood the test of time – despite earthquakes
doing their best to topple them. A tour around these honey and
rose-hued buildings is guaranteed to be a magical experience, but
one you’re likely to share with other tourists. For something a little
more exclusive, we can arrange a private dining experience. While
you dine beneath the stars with temples as your backdrop, you’ll be
treated to a traditional Burmese music and dance performance.
CAMBODIA | LEARN THE ART OF KHMER CUISINE
Siem Reap is a vibrant base for tourists heading to the UNESCO
World Heritage Sites of Angkor, the Khmer Empire’s most
impressive legacy. In this gateway city, we can arrange a culinary
experience with a chef for you to learn the art of traditional
Cambodian cooking. Your first port of call is Phsar Leu, an authentic
market showcasing a dazzling array of ingredients. Once you’ve
collected the essentials, you’ll move to an outdoor kitchen for a
private cooking session. Learn each step from a master of Khmer
cuisine, rustle up something delicious, and then tuck in.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 69

MYANMAR | A FLOATING FEAST
The tranquil waters of Inle Lake are a perfect vantage point for
taking in the sights of rural Myanmar – fishermen glide in slender
boats trawling for their daily catch, the stilted houses of the Intha
people dot the banks, and cloud-feathered mountains rise and fall
on the horizon. It’s also a scenic place for a bite to eat. We can take
you aboard two anchored boats – one a restaurant, and one its
floating kitchen – where you can indulge in a multi-course feast with
a view. Enjoy appetisers, a choice of mains and a dessert of the day,
accompanied by Myanmarese beer or soft drinks. While you dine,
you can watch the slow ebb and flow of life on Inle Lake.
THAILAND | COOK THAI LIKE A PRO
Thailand is famous for its flavourful food. Aromatic, colourful and
often packing a punch of chilli-heat, it’s a fusion of regional and
international influences which has become popular the world over.
If you want to discover the secrets of cooking fine Thai cuisine
yourself, A&K can help. In Bangkok’s Issaya Cooking Studio,
award-winning chefs Ian Kittichai and Ben McRae can teach you
to tell your tom yums from your som tams. The cooking class can
cater to your specific interests, so whether you’re keen to master the
classics, or into more maverick menus, these celebrity chefs will help.
Sweet charity
MYANMAR | MINGLE WITH MONKS
Myanmar is home to hundreds of thousands of devout Buddhist
monks and nuns. These saffron-robed acolytes aren’t ordained
overnight. Instead, each aspiring monk (or bhikkhu) must prove
themselves with years of rituals and monastic schooling. At the
hilltop monastery of Kalaywa, the young novices – many of whom
are orphans – study Buddhist scriptures. For a rare insight into their
unique way of life, we can organise a visit, where you can sponsor
the last meal of the day for the 1,200 monks-in-residence. Your
donation covers the food provided and you can witness the beaming
smiles and humility of the students as you help to serve their food.
VIETNAM | LEND A HAND IN HO CHI MINH
Take a detour from Ho Chi Minh’s tourist trail to witness something
a little different. The Nhat Hong Centre for the Blind and Visually
Impaired was set up by Catholic nuns to meet an urgent need.
Children with visual impairments face an uphill struggle in
Vietnam, with many unable to access education and facing a
lifetime of challenges. This centre gives these vulnerable children
an opportunity to learn, socialise, play and grow. During your A&K
holiday, you can see the valuable work being done here for yourself
– and even lend a hand. Afterwards, a dining-in-the-dark experience
at Noir restaurant will give you a taste of life without sight.
70 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

SOUTH-EAST ASIA
previous page: Inle Lake fishermen;
photography in Bagan
Clockwise from left: Lake life on Inle,
Myanmar; Buddist monks in Myanmar;
Shwedagon Pagoda at dusk; the ruins of Koh
Ker; dinner in the dark; tom yum soup
Spirituality
MYANMAR | A GOLDEN SUNSET AT SHWEDAGON
The 99-metre-tall, gold-drenched stupa of Shwedagon Pagoda is
an ancient icon of Myanmar. Guarded by two fearsome Chinthes
– themselves a sight to behold – it’s a must-see during a visit here.
While its gilded frame is impressive by day, seeing it shimmer in the
light of 1,000 oil lamps at dusk is truly enlightening. During your
A&K excursion to Shwedagon, work your way around the golden
stupa, lighting the encircling oil lamps one by one. The stage is then
set for the ultimate sunset spectacle. Sit back and drink in the view.
Note: Available October to April
CAMBODIA | BLESSING AND BIKING IN ANGKOR
Although many Cambodians have swapped the pedal power of
the bicycle for the horsepower of the motorbike, a cycle around
Siem Reap still has its charms. In this hub of the Angkor region,
we can organise an early-morning bike ride for you, taking in the
picturesque countryside scenes, weaving by ancient city sights and
enjoying the open air. The 40-minute cycle route will take you to
a small pagoda near Bayon temple – famous for its ancient face
towers. You’ll then take part in a traditional purification ceremony in
which local monks offer a blessing said to bring peace and happiness
to one’s life.
CAMBODIA | HELICOPTER FLIGHT
TO HIDDEN TEMPLES
Around 120 kilometres away from the famous temple complex of
Angkor Wat lies an older, lesser-known UNESCO World Heritage
Site. The ruins of Koh Ker spread across remote, forested plains
in rural Siem Reap. This was briefly the capital city of the Khmer
Empire, and its monuments, shrines and temples are fascinating
relics of a once-powerful civilisation. A&K can whisk you away in
a private helicopter for a scenic flight to Koh Ker. Continue on to
Beng Mealea, one of the largest temple complexes in the Khmer
empire, now mostly hidden within an overgrown forest.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to discuss your next tailormade
adventure to South-East Asia, call our Asia travel
specialists on 01242 547 895.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 71

“It was the best trip ever.
India is exhausting but
amazing: it surpassed all my
expectations on every level.”
KERRY GOLDS, A&K’S MANAGING DIRECTOR,
TRAVELLED TO INDIA FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 2018
THE
JOURNEYMEN
AND WOMEN
2018 WAS THE YEAR FOR INDIA, WITH A&K’S TRAVELLING
TEAM RETURNING BUZZING ABOUT THE SUB-CONTINENT.
WE ASK, WHERE DID THEY GO AND WHY HAS IT FIRED THEM UP?
FROM THE COUNTRY’S SPIRITUAL HEARTLAND TO ITS WILDLIFE
RESERVES, TAKE A TOUR THROUGH INDIA WITH OUR EXPERTS
72 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

INDIA
Lisa Warner DIRECTOR OF MARKETING
Where did you go?
Delhi, Agra, Ranthambore, Jaipur, Shahpura, Jodhpur,
and Udaipur.
Why there?
India has been a destination I’ve wanted to visit for years –
I knew one trip would never be enough so decided to start
with the Golden Triangle, leaving the south for future visits.
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your
destination(s) before you went?
Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie. A very Indian novel
that doesn’t so much teach you its history – it immerses you
in it. It’s a great way to learn about India’s violent, tragic, and
optimistic rebirth following Independence.
What was in your suitcase?
Flip flops and sunglasses on the way there. Indian textiles by
the dozen on the way home.
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made
it so?
Honestly, every place we stayed was outstanding, but if I
had to pick one, then Sujan Rajmahal Palace in Jaipur was a
highlight. A palace in a previous life, it boasts just 15 suites
and rooms, all named after illustrious former guests, giving
it an intimate, boutique feel. The interior design could
have been overwhelming – with vibrant colours, heavily
patterned wallpaper, and velvet furniture throughout – but it
just works. They’ve combined the past and the present with
incredible results and the personal, unobtrusive service was
first-class.
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite
place and why?
Udaipur – for all the reasons the guide books tell you. By
Indian standards it’s relatively peaceful. Whether you wander
the narrow streets, cruise the lake at sunset, or enjoy the view
at dinner from any of the excellent lakefront restaurants, it’s a
fabulously colourful and romantic city.
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where
did you eat it?
We did a street food tour in Agra and the deep-fried, pipinghot
parathas with vegetables and pickles from Ram Babu
Paratha Bhandar were so good we went back for seconds.
What were the best things you did while in India?
A morning cycle-ride around Jaipur was incredible. An early
start meant we avoided the traffic and had time to be part of a
city just waking up – meandering through the flower market,
going to temple with the locals, and enjoying a cup of chai on
a rooftop overlooking the city walls. Other standouts were
learning to make paratha during a cooking lesson in Delhi,
hanging out with local ladies at lunch in a small rural village,
joining a classroom full of children in time for their English
lesson, spotting a sloth bear on safari... I could go on!
What was the best experience you had?
Clichéd but no less true: visiting the Taj Mahal. We took
photos at sunset and returned the next morning for sunrise.
On the advice of our guide, we sped past the camera-clicking,
selfie-taking hordes and for five magical minutes we were
completely alone inside the Taj Mahal. It was one of the few
times in my life when using words like awe-inspiring,
breath-taking, and jaw-dropping actually seemed justified.
Did you bring anything back?
A suitcase full of incredible scarves, throws, and bedspreads.
I never normally bring anything back from holidays, except
photos, but the fabrics were extraordinary so everybody
I know is getting something from India this Christmas.
Did you learn anything?
That I only scratched the surface of what there is to learn
about India’s diverse culture, faiths, history, and customs
– hence the need to return. And that tiger are notoriously
difficult to spot.
How did the destination make its mark on you?
Like every good travel experience, it gave me a lifetime of
memories and a yearning to create more.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 73

Graeme Bull PRODUCT MANAGER
Where did you go?
Kolkata, Bawali, Delhi, Amritsar, Dharamshala,
and Chandigarh.
Why there?
To discover more about West Bengal and its fascinating
history, especially in reference to the UK. The stretch
of countryside from Amritsar has always been an area of
wonder for me and it didn’t disappoint.
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your
destination(s) before you went?
No, but I have recently read The Silk Roads: A New History
of the World by Peter Frankopan. It’s a great read for anyone
wanting to travel east.
What was in your suitcase?
A suit for my meetings, but also a pair of flip flops for when I
could go out and explore.
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made
it so?
The Rajbari Bawali in Bawali, which is an hour and a half
from Kolkata. This heritage hotel delivers something unique
in India. Its history, location, and service made for quite
an experience.
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite
place and why?
The Langar at the Golden Temple in Amritsar. This
volunteer-run, free kitchen serves up to 100,000 people each
day. It was a humbling and amazing operation to witness.
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where
did you eat it?
The food served at The Rajbari Bawali was amazing, but, out
and about, I’m always happy with a good kati roll.
What was the best experience you had?
At St Paul’s Cathedral in Kolkata, I went through the archives
and was able to see my great-grandmother’s baptism forms
from 1885. This was signed by my great-great-grandparents,
I had never seen their writing before and it was a real Who
Do You Think You Are? moment. My guide then showed me
round the cathedral, so I could see where she actually would
have been baptised.
Did you bring anything back?
Some jewellery. My partner is a jewellery designer and so I
had to hit the bazaars.
Did you learn anything?
A lot about colonial history, Sikhism, Buddhism, and the
Tibetan people.
How did the destination make its mark on you?
This is hard to define, but I think anyone who travels to India
is indelibly changed by the experience.
74 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

INDIA
Brandon Clements
SENIOR TRAVEL SPECIALIST, INDIAN SUB-CONTINENT
Where did you go?
I went on a whistle-stop, 24-hour tour of Mumbai’s lesser visited
districts, then on to three national parks in the state of Madhya
Pradesh, and I finished with two nights in the newly refurbished
Oberoi Delhi before flying home.
Why there?
Being a bit of a wildlife enthusiast, I wanted to get an authentic
tiger safari experience at the same time as exploring India’s central
jungles, made famous by Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book.
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your
destination(s) before you went?
I tend not to read much but I did watch a re-run of Tiger – Spy in the
Jungle, a great BBC documentary predominantly filmed in Pench
National Park a decade ago.
What was in your suitcase?
Essential were a mirrorless camera with zoom lens for the wildlife,
my GoPro, horrendous camouflage safari shirt, and Keen sandals.
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made it so?
Taj Banjaar Tola – African-style safari tents with distinctly Indian
décor set in the buffer zone of Kanha National Park. The tents are
huge inside with all mod cons, a sundeck overlooking the river and
pool, plus great staff, service, and cuisine.
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite place
and why?
Pench National Park gave me my first tiger sighting in central India.
We were the only jeep parked up overlooking a dry riverbed during
a morning game drive. We were lucky enough to spend around an
hour watching a tigress and her two cubs exploring their territory.
The highlight was the two cubs
play fighting each other and
stalking prey, before resting with
their mother underneath the
shade of a large banyan tree.
What was the best thing you
ate on holiday, and where did
you eat it?
Everything on the street-food tour of Delhi – especially jalebi (an
extremely rich dessert made by deep frying swirls of maida flour and
afterwards drenching them in sugary syrup) purchased from Old
Famous Jalebi Wala in Chandni Chowk. Kachori, a savoury snack
made from stuffing spicy moong dal and vegetables into casings
made from flour, deep frying, and then covering in a curry sauce
– purchased from Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala in Chandni Chowk –
was also incredible.
What were the best things you did while in India?
All the tiger safaris were amazing, and the wildlife-spotting was
excellent. A Mumbai by Dawn tour was also a highlight, as was
experiencing the luxury at the Oberoi Delhi – any hotel that plays
chill-out music you can hear underwater as you swim gets a thumbs
up from me.
What was the best experience you had?
Seeing a tiger kill on the final game drive of the trip.
Did you bring anything back?
A wooden carving of the Hindu god Ganesh, the remover of
obstacles and difficulties. It’s come in very handy – I’m currently
renovating my new house.
Did you learn anything?
Chai is always served very, very, very sweet; any brand of cold beer in
40-degree, pre-monsoon heat tastes good; and tiger are sneaky.
How did the destination make its mark on you?
As with all trips to India, it left me wanting more. I’m already
planning another trip next year to the Indian Himalaya and
Andaman Islands.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 75

Rosanna Milburn
INDIAN SUB-CONTINENT PRODUCT ASSISTANT
Where did you go?
Hyderabad, Hampi, Chikmagalur, Coorg, Kabini, Mysore,
and Bengaluru.
Why there?
To experience the culture – everything from the amazing
(and spicy) food and the ancient ruins of the UNESCO
World Heritage Site of Hampi, to witnessing the bustling
local businesses of Bengaluru. I went on my first safari at
Nagarhole National Park and saw a leopard within the first
ten minutes. This is rare, particularly in monsoon season,
but the park is great for spotting a variety of wildlife. These
locations offer another side to India – a greener, more
tranquil place that you usually don’t see on a first trip to
the country.
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your
destination(s) before you went?
No – as a former English literature student and a travel
professional, this is shameful, I know.
What was in your suitcase?
My camera, GoPro, and chocolate (just in case).
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made
it so?
Taj Falaknuma Palace [pictured below]. From the gold
horse-drawn carriage to the rose-petal baths and personalised
service, this hotel is all about luxury. As soon as you take
your first step into the lobby, you’ll see amazing art. The hotel
is filled with interesting objects – take a Champagne tour,
guided by a historian, and you will see the grand 101-seater
dining table and a unique ivory snooker table. Attention to
detail here is next level. The outdoor dining area offers great
views and is the perfect place to enjoy a jasmine cocktail.
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite
place and why?
Hampi was my favourite destination. It’s perfect for those
interested in history and architecture. Now a city in ruins, the
capital was renowned for its stunning architecture, parts of
which can still be seen and explored today.
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where
did you eat it?
Mysore pak at a local sweet shop in Mysore.
What were the best things you did while in India?
Exploring the different temples of Hampi was really
interesting. In Coorg, we visited Namdroling Monastery
and got to witness the Tibetan Buddhist monks praying –
a memorable sight. In Mysore we took a cooking class at a
local home and made our own dosa. This was a really fun
experience and a great opportunity to interact with a local
family while enjoying chai tea.
What was the best experience you had?
I really enjoyed exploring Bengaluru and being immersed in
its bustling atmosphere.
Did you bring anything back?
Coffee, incense sticks, and stacks of bangles from the local
market in Mysore.
Did you learn anything?
Being my first trip to India, I learnt a lot about the culture,
the mythology surrounding different monuments, and
different religious beliefs.
How did the destination make its mark on you?
I loved India and enjoyed experiencing the culture. It has
definitely made me want to go back again and see what else
the country has to offer.
76 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

INDIA
Gabriele Niems PRIVATE CLIENT MANAGER
Where did you go?
Northern India.
Why there?
For the culture, people, spiritual experience, gorgeous hotels,
and delicious food.
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your
destination(s) before you went?
No, but I re-watched The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel –
a wonderful movie set in Rajasthan.
What was in your suitcase?
An alarm clock – we had a lot of early starts.
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made
it so?
The Taj Lake Palace – as the name suggests, this hotel is a
palace built on the lake. I was upgraded to a Grand Royal
Suite, which had a winter garden overlooking the lake.
The best bit was the Jacuzzi, which was bigger than most
apartments in Monte Carlo. On two sides, there were views
of the lake – I didn’t emerge from that Jacuzzi for hours.
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite
place and why?
Jodhpur – the Blue City. The Mehrangarh Fort felt so
spiritual and the view across the blue rooftops of the city was
stunning. I visited the nearby Bishnoi village community
– interacting with local farmers and pottery makers, and
witnessing an opium ceremony were interesting. These
memories will last a long time.
What were the best things you did while in India?
Feeding a cow with grass for protection; interacting with
school children from a children’s home; and washing and
feeding orphan elephant.
What was the best experience you had?
A behind-the-scenes tour of a Ganesh factory, where huge
statues are built and painted by artists for the Ganesh
Festival. Seeing Mumbai by dawn and watching the
Koli women, the oldest residents of the city, buying and
auctioning fish. Visiting a school project run by AKP in
Udaipur – learning how teachers and underprivileged
children learn and work together. Their principles and ethics
should be an example to any Western school.
Did you bring anything back?
Besides lots of great memories, a wooden Ganesh.
Did you learn anything?
I learnt a lot about the culture and people and how they value
life and interact with their surroundings.
Did the destination make its mark on you?
How could it not?
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where
did you eat it?
The chilli-stuffed mushrooms at the Taj Lake Palace get
my vote.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information, or to create your own Indian adventure,
call our India travel specialists on 01242 547 755.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 77

FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF AMERICAN NOVELIST
MARK TWAIN WITH A JOURNEY TO SRI LANKA.
ACCORDING TO TWAIN, THIS TEAR-SHAPED COUNTRY
WAS ‘ALL HARMONIOUS, ALL IN PERFECT TASTE’.
A Z
TO
OF SRI LANKA
FROM RECEIVING A BLESSING UNDER THE WORLD’S OLDEST TREE
AT ANURADHAPURA TO WATCHING MINIATURE ZEBU GRAZING
ALONG THE SHORES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN, EXPERIENCES IN
SRI LANKA SPAN A TRAVELLER’S ALPHABET FROM A TO Z

SRI LANKA
AANURADHAPURA
Receive a blessing at the world’s
oldest recorded tree, the Jaya Sri
Maha Bodhi, when you visit the UNESCO
World Heritage Site of Anuradhapura. The
sacred fig tree, in Mahamewna Gardens, is
said to come from a branch of the tree under
which Buddha attained Enlightenment.
Incredible to think it was planted in around
288 BC. Today, Buddhists bring offerings
and pay homage.
BBENTOTA
Coconut palms dominate the landscape of the beautiful
beach at Bentota. This family-friendly shore on the west
coast is renowned for its clean, fine sand lapped by the crystalline
waters of the Indian Ocean. From November to April, Bentota
Beach is ideal for wind-surfing, sailing and water skiing. Enjoy
sunset walks along the sand. Travel to the
nearby Kosgoda Sea Turtle Hatchery to
gain an insight into the challenge
of protecting turtles.
CCULTURAL TRIANGLE
Explore the sacred shrines of
the Cultural Triangle, made up of
the ancient cities of Anuradhapura,
Polonnaruwa and Dambulla,
renowned for its rock cave temple.
This jewel in Sri Lanka’s crown is
brimming with Buddhist temples
and ancient cities, and capped by
the World Heritage Sigiriya Rock
Fortress. Be the first to stay at the
luxurious Sigiriya Resort when it
opens in 2020 and enjoy spectacular
views of lakes and mountains.
DDAMBULLA
This great cave-temple complex
includes the largest number
of Buddha statues ever found in one
place. The Dambulla Cave Temple, a
UNESCO site, is still used by monks
for meditation. Founded in the 1st century
BC by King Valagamba, these numerous caves
feature Hindu statues, sculptures,
and frescoes that date back to
the 12th century.
EELEPHANT
At Udawalawe National
Park, the Sri Lankan
elephant is the star of the show.
There are more than 500 of
these gentle giants in the park,
roaming in herds of up to 30. Sri
Lankan elephant are the largest of the
three Asian subspecies. Elsewhere on
the island, every year ‘the Gathering’
occurs, when hundreds of elephant
migrate to the shores of an ancient reservoir in
Minneriya National Park.
FFOOD
Indulge in Sri Lanka’s rich melting-pot cuisine. Start your
day with a traditional breakfast of hoppers, bowl-shaped
pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk. Better
still, why not learn how to make this local delicacy in a cooking
class? Don’t leave without feasting on the ultimate street food of
kottu roti along with green
jackfruit curry and tangy
gotu kola mallung (salad).
GGALLE
The walled trading
port of Galle is a
mix of the exotic with the
colonial. The architecture of
this UNESCO Heritage Site
reflects its Dutch history and
Sri Lankan tradition. Take the
time to explore Galle Fort. A
walled enclave surrounded on
three sides by the ocean, this
impressive fortress includes a
fascinating maritime museum.
Galle is the perfect place to
pick up some spices or
visit a nearby cinnamon
plantation.
HHAPUTALE
Enjoy the ultimate
cuppa on the actual
tea estate started by Sir
Thomas Lipton himself. From
Dambatenne Tea Factory you
can take a tuk-tuk to Lipton’s
Seat lookout and gaze across the
emerald hills to no fewer than
seven different provinces. Stay
on the southern edge of Hill Country, in Thotalagala, a beautifully
restored 16th-century plantation bungalow.
IINNINGS
A legacy of British colonial rule, cricket is played everywhere
in Sri Lanka from the beaches to the back streets of Colombo.
The islanders are keen cricketers and even won the Cricket World
Cup in 1996. Watch The Lions play an innings at grounds in the
capital or in Galle, which had one of the world’s most picturesque
pitches, bordered on two sides by the iridescent Indian Ocean.
JJAFFNA
Discover more about Sri
Lankan’s Tamil culture with
a visit to Jaffna. This intriguing
place, off the beaten track, features
attractive palm-shaded, old-world
suburbs and beautiful temples
and churches. The city, which is
rebuilding itself after decades of war,
emigration, and embargoes, is an
ideal base for exploring the idyllic
islands just to the west and trips
along the coastline and lagoons
of the surrounding peninsula.

O
OYATE INGRISI KA-THA
KARANNA
PULU-WANDA?
Do you speak English? Always a
handy phrase whatever country
you’re in. When you’re travelling
through Sri Lanka, you can use the
Sinhalese phrase: “Oyate ingrisi ka-tha
karanna pulu-wanda?” The local
people will appreciate it.
KKANDY
Retreat to the Sri Lankan Hill Country, home
to the world-famous tea plantations which
fringe the city of Kandy. One of its most popular
events is the Esala Perahera, which takes place in
July or August. The Perahera is held in honour of the
Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha. The grand procession
features elephant, rhythmic drummers, and dancers.
LLION ROCK
Why not climb
to the top of
Sigiriya Rock? The
magnificent rock-top
fortress is known as
the ‘Lion Rock’. As
you ascend, look out
for the mirror wall,
frescoes, and the great
lion’s paw. Incredibly, this
spectacular construction
was commissioned by
King Kashyapa I in the
5th century. From the
summit, take in
panoramic views
over the jungle and
green rolling hills.
MMINISTRY OF CRAB
Ministry of Crab is one of Colombo’s top
eateries, and number 25 on the list of
Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Co-owned by former Sri
Lankan cricket stars Kumar Sangakkara and Mahela
Jayawardene, this is the place to eat lagoon crab.
From quality ingredients to its prime location at the Old
Dutch Hospital in Colombo, this knockout eatery has it
all. Sample the chilli crab which uses a variety of Sri
Lankan spices to create warmth and sweetness. You can
even opt for a two-kilogram Crabzilla!
NNUWARA ELIYA
Known as ‘Little England’ for its picturesque landscape
and cool climate, Nuwara Eliya was discovered by
John Davy in around 1818. Road and rail approaches are
dramatic as both routes hug the narrow mountain passes
before making the steep climb down. The city, lying in the
shadow of the country’s tallest mountain, Pidurutalagala,
features colonial-era architecture.
P
PERADENIYA
The fragrant walkways of the
Royal Botanical Gardens in
Peradeniya are bursting with its collection of
rare orchids. It was here that the first leaves of
tea, imported from China, were grown. You can
stroll through the classic Avenue of Palms and see the
Cannonball Tree planted by King George V in 1901.
Q
QUADRANGLE, POLONNARUWA
Just north of the Royal Palace ruins in the ancient
city of Polonnaruwa is the Quadrangle, a group of
ruins raised on a stone bank and bounded by a wall. This
concentrated collection of monuments includes the Vatadage,
which is where it is thought the tooth relic of the Buddha was
enshrined, and is surrounded by four well-preserved seated
Buddha statues.
R
RESPLENDENT ISLAND
Did you know Sri Lanka means ‘resplendent island’ in
Sanskrit? Formerly known as Ceylon under British
rule, it was only renamed in 1972, despite gaining
independence in 1948. You can join locals for a day
of celebration on 4 February each year to mark Sri
Lankan National Day. The country comes together for
flag-hoisting ceremonies, dances, military parades and
cultural events.
S
STILT FISHING
It’s mesmerising to watch the locals
stilt fishing. Unique to Sri Lanka, the
practice consists of sitting on a single pole
and crossbar mounted in the shallows
while wooden rods are used to catch the
fish. Fishermen balance on the stilt and
wait silently. Early morning and late
afternoon are the optimum times
to watch this spectacle.
T
TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH
No visit to Kandy would
be complete without a
pilgrimage to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth.
You can experience Thevava or ‘offering’ at the temple
which houses Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist
relic, a tooth of the Buddha. As monks carry out the
ceremony to the sounds of drums, breathe in the heady
scent of incense and jasmine which fills the inner
sanctum. Remember to dress respectfully.
80 | SPRING/SUMMER 2019

SRI LANKA
WORDS: JANET BRICE. ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: ALICIA DEVENEY
U
UNESCO
Few countries are blessed with as many UNESCO World
Heritage Sites as this gem in the Indian Ocean, making
it perfect for a cultural odyssey. Its seven historic marvels are
the sacred city of Anuradhapura, the ancient settlements of
Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya, the Golden Temple of Dambulla, the
old town of Galle, the magnificent temples and palaces of the
royal city of Kandy, and the Sinharaja Forest Reserve.
Y
YALA
This national
park may be
famous for having one of the
highest leopard concentrations
in the world, but you can also view
elephant and sloth bear here. It’s estimated
that more than 40 leopards live within the
130,000 hectares of Yala, the country’s oldest
park, which borders the Indian Ocean. Spotted
deer, wild boar, buffalo, and flocks of migratory
birds also call this slice of Sri Lanka home.
V
VIRGIN RAINFOREST
The virgin rainforest of Sinharaja is the most
biologically unique lowland forest in Sri Lanka,
covering 11,187 hectares from east to west. This UNESCO
World Heritage Site is a great place for birdwatchers. You can
see the Ceylon lorikeet, Layard’s parakeet, Ceylon blue magpie
and the white-throated flowerpecker, among others.
W
WORLD’S END
Early morning is the best
time to visit the
awe-inducing escarpment of World’s End. From your
vantage point within the Horton Plains National Park in
Nuwara Eliya you should see tea plantation villages in the valley
below and views towards the coast. A trek to the sheer cliff, with
a drop of about 1,200 metres, usually takes about three hours.
X
X MARKS THE SPOT
X out of ten to anyone who knew the Romans visited
Sri Lanka by accident. In 45 AD a ship was caught in a
monsoon and landed in a natural harbour of Taprobane (as it
was known to the ancient Greeks). Evidence of the landing can
be seen in Jetavana Museum at Anuradhapura where Roman
coins, found at the nearby monastery, are on display.
Z
ZEBU
A familiar sight grazing in rural parts of Sri Lankan
is the zebu. You can recognise this diminutive breed
of cattle by the distinctive fatty hump on its shoulders. Well
adapted to thrive in the intense heat and drought conditions,
the zebu is the world’s smallest natural breed of cow. When fully
grown, they measure less than one metre and are occasionally
kept as pets by children.
previous page: Sigiriya Lion Rock
From A to Z: The Bodhi tree, Anuradhapura; turtle; Polonnaruwa;
elephant; Galle Fort; Vallipuram Alvar Vishnu Kovil, Jaffna; Esala Perahera
procession in Kandy; Lion Rock; rare orchid; stilt fisherman; view from top
of Sigiriya Rock; Temple of the Tooth; Ceylon blue magpie; leopard
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information on visiting this gem of an island, or to
book your very own A to Z of Sri Lanka’s many wonders, call
our Indian Sub-continent travel experts on 01242 547 755.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 81

A&K PHILANTHROPY
THE WATER’S EDGE
AKP’s wells and straws are
helping more than 40,000
people across two countries
Regular readers of these pages will
know that water, and related hygiene,
health and sanitation projects, are
key in Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy’s
efforts to improve the lives of residents in the
diverse destinations we visit. Water may be a
basic human right, but its effects go far beyond
quenching thirst. Clean water is also crucial to
preserving agriculture, ecosystems and cultural
development. According to the United Nations,
there are 633 million people in the world (one
in 10) without access to clean drinking water.
In Kenya and Cambodia, due to
contaminated water, malnutrition and disease
are the norm. Recognising that water is
key to both society and the environment,
Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy (AKP)
operates clean water programmes in these
countries. In Kenya’s Masai Mara and
Cambodia’s Siem Reap, wells and straws
are both playing a vital role. Together with
local support on the ground, award-winning
collaborators and generous donations, our bid
to tackle water contamination continues.
IN CAMBODIA
More than half of the total deaths in Cambodia
are due to water-borne illnesses, many in the
country’s rural communities where locals can
only access contaminated sources.
Ten years ago, AKP started tackling the
issue by building water wells for families in
the rural villages of Siem Reap. Working with
trusted local partners, we continue to install
bio-sand filter wells as well as carrying out
yearly spot checks to perform maintenance
and ensure sustainability.
By the latest count, our teams have built
more than 1,200 wells, providing clean water
to over 28,000 people and offering fresh new
starts for Cambodian families.
And it’s not just village communities that
benefit from the wells. Livestock and farms
flourish due to functioning, well-supplied
irrigation systems.
Want to get involved? If you’re on your way
to Cambodia, request a visit to Siem Reap’s
outer villages to experience our project
first-hand and meet our local operatives.
Learn how to install a bio-sand filtered well
and witness their impact on both health and
the environment.
MEANWHILE, IN KENYA
Many of the communities in Kenya’s Masailand
share the same water as wildlife and cattle and
hence are subject to a wide range of diseases.
Inevitably it’s the most vulnerable who suffer
the most – children are no strangers to the
relentless struggle of being forced to miss
school due to water-borne illnesses.
In the Masai Mara 12 months ago, AKP
joined forces with LifeStraw, inventors of a
high-volume water purifier, whose straw-like
filter successfully aids projects in over 64
countries around the world. When it launched,
the Safe Water for Schools project introduced
sustainable access to clean water in the least
invasive way, and brought safe drinking water
to 7,078 students in 11 schools.
LifeStraw’s hollow-fibre purification
technology removes 99.9 per cent of bacteria,
viruses and parasites. The purifiers themselves
may not look impressive, but a single filter
will serve 100 children per day for up to five
years. In its lifetime, just one can produce up to
100,000 litres of clean water.
Our team also orchestrates follow-up visits,
training and support so that communities can
remain self-sufficient. A year later and AKP
and LifeStraw are proud to be providing all
schools around the Masai Mara with clean
water, helping over 15,000 students reach their
full potential.
Heading to Kenya? Visit a local school where
you can witness the operation in action, talk to
the students and see our progress.
| ABERCROMBIE & KENT PHILANTHROPY |
If you would like to know more about Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy, please call us on 01242 547 760,
or visit akphilanthropy.org to find out about other projects we are involved in.

Your family happiness is cherished at Elounda Gulf Villas
…In this small, welcoming corner of Crete, you will be inspired by elegance, pampered with care,
recharged by tranquility, sun-kissed by beauty, balanced by serenity…
This boutique villa hotel is family owned and
run. It is an award-winning member of Small
Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) and consists
of 18 stylish pool villas, five pool suites, 10 deluxe
suites and a beautiful stand-alone pool villa right
on the sea front.
All pool villas are ideal for families as they are
built for privacy and exclusivity. The spacious
terraces are ideal for children to play outdoors
and for parents to enjoy private dining, a spa
treatment, barbecue or spot of sun bathing.
The fully-equipped kitchens in all pool villas
make each one feel like “a home away from
home”.
The private Beach Club provides an excellent
opportunity for all guests to swim in the
turquoise waters, children to play on the sandy
beach, and mostly importantly, to lunch right
on the seafront at EGV Beach Restaurant.
Unforgettable moments.
The two à la carte restaurants, a lounge bar, an
Elixir Spa Gallery, a kids' and crèche club make
this luxurious boutique hotel one of a kind.
You can expect your dream holiday to become
a reality at Elounda Gulf Villas.
Yes, the key to this precious treasure is all
yours to enjoy…
T: 01242 546 611
www.abercrombiekent.co.uk