Sundowner: Spring/Summer 2019
Lone ranging: solo travel is on the rise but there's no need to always go it alone. Botswana nirvana: a paradise for animal lovers. Places to go: 2019's eight hottest travel destinations.
Lone ranging: solo travel is on the rise but there's no need to always go it alone.
Botswana nirvana: a paradise for animal lovers.
Places to go: 2019's eight hottest travel destinations.
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SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
Lone ranging<br />
SOLO TRAVEL IS ON THE RISE BUT THERE’S<br />
NO NEED TO ALWAYS GO IT ALONE<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
NIRVANA<br />
A PARADISE FOR<br />
ANIMAL LOVERS<br />
PLACES<br />
TO GO<br />
<strong>2019</strong>’S EIGHT HOTTEST<br />
TRAVEL DESTINATIONS<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 3
S/S <strong>2019</strong> £4<br />
A PARADISE FOR<br />
ANIMAL LOVERS<br />
<strong>2019</strong>’S EIGHT HOTTEST<br />
TRAVEL DESTINATIONS<br />
14<br />
50<br />
72<br />
DEAR TRAVELLER<br />
Happy new year and welcome to the latest issue<br />
of <strong>Sundowner</strong>. Animals abound in this edition<br />
of the magazine – in the upcoming pages, you’ll<br />
spy species from mighty mountain gorilla to<br />
adorable Adélie penguin.<br />
Experiencing wildlife in its natural habitat is<br />
one of travel’s greatest rewards. As I read reports<br />
such as the WWF’s most recent, which states<br />
that humanity has wiped out 60 per cent of<br />
mammals, birds, fish, and reptiles since 1970,<br />
my desire to conserve our world’s wildlife is<br />
reaffirmed anew.<br />
Every holiday you undertake with us<br />
contributes funds to A&K Philanthropy<br />
and its excellent animal conservation and<br />
local community benefit programmes. It’s a<br />
simple and easy way to help protect animals<br />
including rhino and leopard, and benefit<br />
local communities, while you enrich your life<br />
through experiential holidays.<br />
Wishing you happy (animal sighting-filled)<br />
travels in the year to come.<br />
Founder, Chairman and CEO,<br />
Abercrombie & Kent Group<br />
Follow me on Instagram @geoffrey_kent<br />
Front cover: Exploring a bamboo<br />
forest in Kyoto, Japan<br />
Editor: Alicia Deveney<br />
Deputy editor: Faye Wiltshire<br />
Design: Debbie Edkins & Louise Maggs<br />
Contributors: Ian Belcher, Janet<br />
Brice, Graeme Bull, Ianthe Butt, Katy<br />
Calderwood, Nina Caplan, Nick Curtis,<br />
Jane Dunford, Sacha Harrison, Jan<br />
Masters, Joe Meredith, Penelope Rance,<br />
Amanda <strong>Spring</strong>er, James Treacy, Philippa<br />
Turner, Sue Watts, Charlotte Wells<br />
<strong>Sundowner</strong> is Abercrombie & Kent’s<br />
magazine, St George’s House,<br />
Ambrose Street, Cheltenham, Glos,<br />
GL50 3LG. Advertising enquiries to:<br />
gbradvertising@abercrombiekent.co.uk<br />
SUNDOWNER SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
Lone ranging<br />
SOLO TRAVEL IS ON THE RISE BUT THERE’S<br />
NO NEED TO ALWAYS GO IT ALONE<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
NIRVANA<br />
PLACES<br />
TO GO<br />
CONTENTS SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
4 BUSH TELEGRAPH<br />
All the latest from A&K and the wide world<br />
of travel<br />
6 IN THE KNOW<br />
The most exciting hotel openings<br />
68<br />
8 48 HOURS IN MATERA<br />
A weekend in <strong>2019</strong>’s European Capital of<br />
Culture offers ancient culture and fine food<br />
10 THE HOTTEST PLACES<br />
TO TRAVEL IN <strong>2019</strong><br />
A&K’s experts choose the best places to<br />
explore in the year to come<br />
14 DOG DAY AFTERNOON<br />
In Botswana, Sue Watts discovers that every<br />
(wild) dog has its day<br />
18 OPEN FOR BUSINESS<br />
How hurricane-affected Caribbean islands<br />
are bouncing back<br />
20 TIME TO WINE AND DINE<br />
Nina Caplan is driven to delight in Victoria<br />
and South Australia’s vineyards<br />
24 DUE SOUTH<br />
Our top 10 reasons why now is the time to<br />
visit Adelaide and South Australia<br />
28 ALOHA HAWAII<br />
An island by island guide to the US’s 50th state<br />
32 MEET THE GUIDE<br />
Having conquered Africa, the world’s top<br />
safari guide, Garth Hovell, is turning his<br />
attention further afield<br />
34 ANOTHER SIDE OF SPAIN<br />
In search of Iberian idiosyncrasies,<br />
Penelope Rance takes a tour of Andalusia<br />
38 YEE-HAW!<br />
Our favourite five places to play cowboy<br />
40 FAMILY TIES<br />
Keen to bond with her niece, Jane Dunford<br />
heads to Costa Rica to have an adventure<br />
28<br />
42 BEACH BABES<br />
The European boltholes that combine the<br />
advantages of a villa with all the perks of a hotel<br />
44 GRAND DESIGNS<br />
Ianthe Butt details five head-turning hotel<br />
properties that aren’t simply raising the bar –<br />
they’re reinventing it<br />
48 JORDAN’S SOUTHERN STAR<br />
How new flights to Aqaba are opening up<br />
this Middle Eastern country’s Golden Triangle<br />
50 PUMA PURSUITS<br />
Jan Masters ventures into the wilds of<br />
Patagonia in search of elusive big cats<br />
54 PARTY OF ONE<br />
With the support of an escorted tour group,<br />
Japan is the ideal place to fly solo<br />
56 ANIMAL ATTRACTION<br />
An African safari veteran, Nick Curtis is still<br />
blown away by Tanzania’s wildlife<br />
60 ALTERNATIVE INCA TRAILS<br />
Finding the path less-travelled in Peru<br />
62 OUR FAVOURITE VILLAS FOR <strong>2019</strong><br />
40 sumptuous retreats and dream hideouts<br />
66 POLE POSITION<br />
Paying tribute to the first explorers, who<br />
braved the Southern Ocean 200 years ago<br />
68 ACCESS SOUTH-EAST ASIA<br />
How to enjoy VIP hospitality in the region,<br />
with a little help from us<br />
72 THE JOURNEYMEN AND WOMEN<br />
Take a tour through India with our experts<br />
78 A TO Z OF SRI LANKA<br />
Experiences on the teardrop island that span<br />
the alphabet<br />
82 THE WATER’S EDGE<br />
How A&K Philanthropy is helping more than<br />
40,000 people in two countries access clean,<br />
safe drinking water<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 3
HAPPY BIRTHDAY,<br />
A&K AT HARRODS<br />
The A&K boutique at Harrods is<br />
celebrating its 10th birthday this February.<br />
We will be marking the occasion and the<br />
continued partnership between the two<br />
luxury brands with exciting events and an<br />
exclusive offer that’ll be worth waiting for…<br />
Bush<br />
TELEGRAPH<br />
NEWS FROM A&K AND THE WIDE WORLD OF TRAVEL<br />
18 SUMMERS<br />
You have 18 summers with your<br />
children before they’re too cool to want<br />
to travel with their mum and dad. You<br />
want to make every single holiday count<br />
with your kids – summers, half terms,<br />
Christmas breaks. Every. Single. One.<br />
We know that, and get that the key to<br />
successful, safe, and educational family<br />
travel is a sprinkling of sympathetic,<br />
knowledgeable expertise and advice.<br />
Understanding this, A&K is pleased<br />
to announce the appointment of 10<br />
dedicated family specialists, who have<br />
undergone a specialised training<br />
programme. Booking holidays that can<br />
cater to any age just got a whole lot<br />
easier. Amanda <strong>Spring</strong>er, programme<br />
manager, said: “Thanks to both personal<br />
and professional experience, the team<br />
understands the unique requirements<br />
of families, with young children,<br />
families with teenagers, and extended<br />
families, and will recommend tours,<br />
accommodation and experiences<br />
tailored to each family, taking<br />
into account safety requirements,<br />
education, and fun. I’m delighted to<br />
lead this talented team of specialists<br />
who will enhance the A&K family<br />
holiday experience.” To speak to a<br />
family specialist, call 01242 903 401.<br />
AND THE WINNER IS…<br />
A&K was proclaimed ‘Best Luxury Tour<br />
Operator’ for the third time at the annual News<br />
UK Travel Awards. This plaudit is voted for by<br />
the readers of The Times, The Sunday Times and<br />
The Sunday Times Travel Magazine – and we<br />
were pleased and proud to have been people’s<br />
choice yet again. And we’ve had success with<br />
the critics too, winning ‘World’s Leading Luxury<br />
Safari Company’ and ‘Africa’s Leading Luxury<br />
Tour Operator’ for the ninth year in a row at the<br />
World Travel Awards – dubbed ‘the Oscars of<br />
the travel industry’ by The Wall Street Journal.<br />
Here’s to a 10th.<br />
WINNER<br />
BEST LUXURY TOUR OPERATOR<br />
2 0 1 8<br />
Africa's Leading<br />
Luxury Tour Operator<br />
4 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
FLYING HIGH<br />
THE NEW AIR ROUTES & ADDITIONAL SERVICES<br />
THAT WE’RE MOST EXCITED ABOUT<br />
Vietnam on Qatar’s radar<br />
qatar airways has launched direct flights to Da Nang – linking<br />
London to the beautiful coastal city via the hub of Doha. This will<br />
be the third Vietnamese city on the airline’s global network.<br />
Carnival capital is calling<br />
The first low-fare direct flight between London Gatwick and<br />
Brazil could be taking off in spring <strong>2019</strong>. norwegian has<br />
announced plans for this new route following the success of its<br />
London to Buenos Aires, Argentina, route, which was launched<br />
earlier this year.<br />
Five new routes per year from Stansted<br />
london stansted is planning to introduce 25 direct new<br />
routes over the next five years. Passengers could soon be flying<br />
nonstop to holiday destinations in the Far East, India, North<br />
America, and the Middle East.<br />
Turkish delight with Istanbul<br />
to Sydney flights<br />
turkish airlines is putting Australia back on its route map, with<br />
the airline’s head confirming plans to launch flights to Sydney next<br />
year. Turkish Airlines Chairman lker Aycı said the Star Alliance<br />
member planned to begin flying to Sydney by June <strong>2019</strong>. “It’s<br />
going to happen,” he said. It’s believed the route could be flown by<br />
the airline’s new Boeing 787s, which will also see the debut of an<br />
all-new Business Class seat and a strong focus on privacy.<br />
easyJet heads East<br />
Passengers should benefit from the announcement that<br />
singapore airlines will join the Worldwide by easyjet global<br />
connections service. The move, which will also include low-cost<br />
subsidiary Scoot, will connect easyJet customers with South-East<br />
Asia through Singapore Airlines via Milan Malpensa airport and<br />
with Scoot through Berlin Tegel.<br />
Rule Britannia<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> over to Osaka<br />
Fly directly into Osaka, the food capital of Japan, when<br />
british airways launches its new flight in the spring. As<br />
the country prepares to host the Rugby World Cup, be<br />
the first to board the Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner service<br />
which takes off in April <strong>2019</strong>. The flight will depart<br />
Heathrow Terminal 5 and land into Osaka’s Kansai<br />
International Airport, bringing the number of daily<br />
flights between the UK and Japan up to 32 per week.<br />
Japan Airlines will also offer a code share on the new<br />
service, giving customers the chance to earn and redeem<br />
Avios loyalty points across the network.<br />
<strong>Summer</strong> route to Kos<br />
british airways will be launching a new route to<br />
the Greek island of Kos – just in time for the school<br />
holidays. The service will start this summer and<br />
operate from Gatwick.<br />
New look for centenary year<br />
british airways staff will be wearing new uniforms designed<br />
by Savile Row’s Ozwald Boateng to commemorate the airline’s<br />
centenary in <strong>2019</strong>. Boateng will follow in a long line of prestigious<br />
fashion names from Hardy Amies to Julien MacDonald in<br />
designing the new look. “It is important for me to create something<br />
that makes all of British Airways’ 32,000 uniform-wearing<br />
employees across the world excited,” said Boateng.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 5
in the KNOW<br />
Here’s our scoop on the most exciting hotel openings<br />
THE FARMSTEAD AT ROYAL MALEWANE<br />
Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa<br />
Hats off to the tastemakers behind The Royal Portfolio, which<br />
includes The Silo and La Residence. Making any stay in the bush<br />
even more elegant is their new property: The Farmstead at Royal<br />
Malewane in Greater Kruger. They have reimagined a safari<br />
lodge, that also delivers on style and substance. The guiding<br />
teams are world class and the animals you are likely to see<br />
are some of Africa’s best. There are different accommodation<br />
options including The Farmhouse, a wonderful, exclusive hire,<br />
three-and-a-half bedroom villa with its own chef, housekeeper,<br />
and butler, as well as a private safari vehicle with ranger and<br />
tracker. There’s a great chance of spotting the Big Five, as well<br />
as specialist safari trips such as wildlife photography and<br />
bushwalks. For an incredible family and friends getaway,<br />
the Farmstead can be booked exclusively for up to 14 guests.<br />
IKOS ARIA<br />
Kos, Greece<br />
Kos is going to get cosier when the 19-hectare, stylish IKOS<br />
Aria opens on the mountainous Greek island in May <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
The Infinite Lifestyle brand hotel will feature eight restaurants<br />
offering a world of flavour – everything from the Mediterranean<br />
to the Orient. The kids won’t have time to stop here, whether<br />
they are in the supervised club, in one of the pools, or engaging<br />
in activities including paddleboarding, yoga, tennis, and football.<br />
For the romantic touch, the IKOS Deluxe Collection will provide<br />
a complimentary spa treatment, an exclusive swimming pool<br />
and beach bar area, as well as high levels of service at both the<br />
beach and pool, including snacks, cocktails and, perhaps most<br />
importantly, a bottle of Taittinger on arrival.<br />
6 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH<br />
Montecito, California, US<br />
Beach lovers rejoice! In <strong>2019</strong>, you’ll be able to stay on one of<br />
the world’s most beautiful beaches. Whether you choose to take<br />
in the Los Angeles lifestyle first and then head 129 kilometres<br />
north-west, or whether you prefer to make this your start and<br />
end point, Rosewood Miramar Beach is simply spectacular. Set<br />
in the idyllic seaside community of Montecito, this coastal retreat<br />
oozes style, grace, and glamour. Come here simply to see and be<br />
seen, or to rejuvenate with early morning yoga and sunset sandy<br />
walks on Miramar Beach. There’s lively and entertaining dining<br />
available or more intimate, romantic tables in the convivial<br />
Manor House. The views over the Pacific Ocean are intoxicating.<br />
Be prepared to book your next trip before you even leave...<br />
FUTANGUE HOTEL & SPA<br />
Lake Ranco, Northern Patagonia, Chile<br />
We love the idea of an everyday escape at Futangue. This<br />
privately owned park, a 90-minute flight from Santiago, lies on<br />
the shores of Chile’s Lake Ranco. Here you can easily go off-grid<br />
if you choose, with over 100 kilometres of wilderness trails to<br />
select from and activities such as biking, kayaking, fly-fishing.<br />
Or simply turn everything off including your mind for a few<br />
hours in the hotel’s spa. The landscape here is beautiful, with<br />
waterfalls, mountains, forests, rivers, and lakes, as well as more<br />
unusual lava fields and hot springs to explore. This area is also<br />
one of the most important biodiversity hot spots on the planet,<br />
with some of the best-preserved examples of the Valdivian<br />
rainforest right on the hotel’s doorstep.<br />
ON OUR RADAR: OTHER HOT HOTEL OPENINGS<br />
Billed as the first all-inclusive resort in the Florida Keys, the adult-only luxury resort of Bungalows Key Largo opens in <strong>2019</strong>. With stunning sunsets on tap<br />
from Sunset Cove, this is tropical Florida chic. Personal and personalised – it’s a dream holiday getaway. For a more indoor-outdoor tropical environment,<br />
the Alila Villas Koh Russey in Cambodia is an ecological escape, with beachfront swimming pool as well as couples’-only alcoves for complete privacy.<br />
Wilderness Safaris has notched up another environmental success story for spring <strong>2019</strong>, this time in Rwanda, with its plastic-free camp Magashi in the<br />
country’s Akagera National Park. Small and intimate, this private concession offers excellent safaris and is a homage to Rwandan culture and heritage.<br />
Combine a stay here with a trip to Bisate for the unmissable gorilla-trekking experience.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 7
48 HOURS IN<br />
MATERA<br />
SPEND TWO DAYS IN MATERA, EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE <strong>2019</strong>, AND DISCOVER AN<br />
ANCIENT CITY OF STONE AND LABYRINTHINE CAVE DWELLINGS, SAYS A&K'S PHILIPPA TURNER<br />
DAY 1<br />
11.00<br />
Arrive in Puglia, hop in a hire car and drive to<br />
the hilltop town of Matera. One of the oldest<br />
inhabited cities in the world, it is made up of<br />
cave dwellings, or sassi, shaped out of soft tufa<br />
rock. It will become clear that the caves are<br />
pivotal to Matera’s lifestyle when you park up<br />
at a hotel embedded in the ancient stone.<br />
12.45<br />
Drop your bags and leave your car at the gate:<br />
Matera is all about walking around. Stroll<br />
down the city’s cobbled streets lined with<br />
honeycomb-like caves. Today you can explore<br />
art galleries, cafés and baroque palaces carved<br />
into the hillside. With or without the sassi,<br />
Matera is UNESCO-credited, and rightly so,<br />
for its medieval sleepy squares and sweeping<br />
biblical views. Stop for lunch at Osteria al<br />
Casale for local specialties such as homemade<br />
bean soup and pizza with spicy sausage and<br />
turnip tops.<br />
15.30<br />
You can work off lunch walking up the<br />
Sasso Caveoso to Museo della Sculptura<br />
Contemporanea. Housed in the 16th-century<br />
Palazzo Pomarici, its rough-hewn chambers,<br />
courtyards and Italian sculptures are worth<br />
the climb. On the way down, duck into Casa<br />
Cava, the world’s only underground cultural<br />
centre, before heading back to your hotel to<br />
relax and get ready for dinner.<br />
18.45<br />
Amble down to the Duomo Café in the<br />
Cathedral square for an aperitivo at sunset.<br />
After soaking up the evening ambience,<br />
walk to Il Terrazzino where we’ve reserved<br />
a front-row table overlooking the city,<br />
gloriously lit up at night. Dine on handmade<br />
orecchiette with creamy mozzarella.<br />
8 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
DAY 2<br />
09.00<br />
After a leisurely breakfast, it’s time to head to<br />
Parco della Murgia Materana, a national park<br />
reminiscent of Jerusalem. Here you will find<br />
over 100 Rupestrian churches dug into the<br />
rockscape. Before you set off, stop in at<br />
Il Forno di Gennaro, a family-run bakery<br />
for straight-out-of-the-oven tomato focaccia.<br />
It’s perfect picnic fare which will keep you<br />
fuelled throughout the day.<br />
11.30<br />
Head to the Crypt of Original Sin, around<br />
a 40-minute drive away from the national<br />
park, where you can see caverns containing<br />
eighth-century frescoes. After spending some<br />
time here, you’ll feel like a refreshing snack.<br />
Drive back to town and make a pit stop at<br />
I Vizi degli Angeli for the prettiest<br />
lavender-flavoured gelato.<br />
14.30<br />
There’s plenty of time for a spa session at your<br />
hotel. If you’re still up for exploring, it’s an<br />
hour’s drive to Martina Franca, a picturesque<br />
town with whitewashed lanes, winding<br />
alleyways and airy piazzas. After lingering<br />
a while in this charming spot, head back to<br />
Matera to change for dinner.<br />
19.30<br />
It’s your last night, so why not celebrate at one<br />
of the town’s uber glam restaurants, Baccanti?<br />
Overlooking a picturesque gorge, dine on veal<br />
cheek with aglianico wine sauce under the glow<br />
of soft candlelight. Nightcap? Head to Area 8,<br />
a creative watering hole and discreet celeb hot<br />
spot. Sip on thyme-infused negronis on the<br />
terrace backed by the sounds of a DJ.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your<br />
next European city break, call our travel<br />
specialists on 01242 547 703.<br />
left to right:<br />
Matera skyline; Parco della Murgia Materana;<br />
scenic courtyard in the Sassi district<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 9
WHERE TO explore<br />
IN <strong>2019</strong><br />
FROM AN OLD FAVOURITE SHINING BRIGHT ONCE<br />
MORE TO AN IDYLLIC ISLAND, BUSTLING METROPOLISES,<br />
AND REMOTE REGIONS, THESE HOT DESTINATIONS ARE<br />
A&K EXPERT-ENDORSED AND SET TO BE THE NEXT BIG<br />
THING. CONSIDER YOURSELF CLUED-UP<br />
RWANDA<br />
Luxury travel has arrived in Rwanda. Known as the ‘Land of<br />
a Thousand Hills’, the country is home to more than a third<br />
of the world’s remaining mountain gorilla. Environmentally,<br />
this is one of the cleanest countries in the world. Combined<br />
with a reduction in fees and several luxury hotel openings,<br />
there’s never been a better time to visit.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: One&Only Nyungwe House, located on the<br />
edge of the Nyungwe Forest in the mountainous south-west,<br />
has just opened. Within the lush green expanse of a working<br />
tea plantation, One&Only Nyungwe House offers an exciting<br />
window to Africa’s fascinating wildlife and culture. One&Only<br />
Gorilla’s Nest is set to open in April <strong>2019</strong>, near the village of<br />
Kingi. From its vantage point on the foothills of the Virungas,<br />
guests will be able to explore the habitat of mountain gorilla.<br />
Due to open in March <strong>2019</strong> is Wilderness Safaris’ Magashi<br />
Camp. Designed to help ensure the protection of the savanna<br />
ecosystem and shoebill and black rhino species, this is a<br />
wonderful opportunity to experience Rwanda beyond its<br />
gorilla families. Singita Kwitonda Lodge is set to open in<br />
August <strong>2019</strong> on the edge of Volcanoes National Park.<br />
Located on a breathtaking 32-hectare plot, this lodge<br />
puts gorilla trekking within easy reach.<br />
An A&K eight-night, tailor-made holiday to Rwanda starts<br />
at £6,695 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
10 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
ZIMBABWE<br />
There’s never been a better time to visit Zimbabwe. A renewed<br />
hope is evident amid a changing political landscape and this<br />
spirit of optimism is attracting a fresh wave of tourism. ‘Zim’<br />
is home to five different UNESCO World Heritage Sites and<br />
the glorious natural attractions of Victoria Falls, the Zambezi<br />
River and Hwange – the country’s largest game reserve.<br />
The country is more vibrant than ever with a burst of exciting<br />
hotel reopenings to boot.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: Bumi Hills Safari Lodge on Lake Kariba<br />
recently completed a £2.3 million upgrade. The lake-view<br />
rooms were reconfigured, ensuring wonderful vistas over<br />
Kariba. The accommodation was consolidated from 20 down<br />
to 10 lake-view rooms and two premium rooms, making this<br />
an intimate resort. Other improvements include lake cruise<br />
boats and pontoons. These have been added to improve<br />
the exceptional game viewing and sunset cruises. Singita<br />
Pamushana Lodge in Zimbabwe’s Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve<br />
reopened in May 2018 after a complete refurbishment. A pair<br />
of two-bedroom suites were added, bringing its total offering<br />
to eight suites and a private five-bedroom villa. Nature is<br />
omnipresent: the lodge is set among towering trees, atop a<br />
mountain, overlooking a lake in the remote reaches of the<br />
pristine wildlife reserve.<br />
An A&K 12-night, tailor-made holiday to Zimbabwe starts<br />
at £6,715 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
PERU<br />
Known for its ancient ruins, spectacular scenery and colonial<br />
architecture, Peru has added cuisine to its international appeal.<br />
The vibrant restaurant scene is home to some of the world’s<br />
most influential chefs. Virgilio Martinez Véliz and Mitsuharu<br />
Tsumura’s establishments in Lima and Cusco are a must<br />
for visiting foodies. But some of Peru’s most beautiful hikes<br />
begin just outside the city. In the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz<br />
has become northern Peru’s centre for outdoor activities.<br />
Huascarán National Park, covering nearly 340,000 hectares,<br />
is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site and home of<br />
some of South America’s most gorgeous scenery and glaciers<br />
with 25 trekking routes and 102 mountaineering spots. And<br />
last but not least, in <strong>2019</strong>, the Dakar Rally will take place in<br />
only one country for the first time in its history, with Peru the<br />
sole host nation for the event.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: Lake Titicaca has a new hotel – Amantica<br />
Lodge lies on the small island of Amantani. Composed of<br />
just two suites, it has been designed around the spectacular<br />
panoramas, allowing guests to gaze over the calm waters to<br />
the Peruvian mountains beyond. And in those picturesque<br />
Peruvian Andes, the Belmond Andean Explorer is taking<br />
relaxation to new lengths next year. After debuting its first<br />
spa-on-wheels earlier this year in Scotland, the hotel and<br />
leisure company is adding another spa to the sleeper train that<br />
traverses the picturesque Peruvian Andes. The train’s spa car,<br />
Picaflor (Spanish for hummingbird) is set to debut in March.<br />
The spa-on-wheels will specialise in treatments inspired by<br />
ingredients local to the region.<br />
An A&K nine-night, tailor-made holiday to Peru starts at<br />
£3,295 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
car hire, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 11
ITALY<br />
It’s hard to beat the mixture of history, architecture, food,<br />
and people in the home of the Renaissance. The year to come<br />
marks the 500-year anniversary of the death of one of the<br />
Rebirth’s most preeminent figures – Leonardo da Vinci. In<br />
honour of this quincentenary, there are events and exhibitions<br />
scheduled throughout the country all year. Another cultural<br />
happening of note, this year the European Capital of Culture<br />
baton passes to the Puglian city of Matera – the first southern<br />
Italian metropolis to be recognised in this way.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: The Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group has taken<br />
over management of an existing resort on the shores of Lake<br />
Como. The property will be rebranded as Mandarin Oriental,<br />
Lake Como, in spring <strong>2019</strong> following a refurbishment of<br />
facilities. It will feature 76 spacious rooms and suites housed<br />
in nine villas, dating from the 19th century. Hotel Eden Rome<br />
has just opened after a 17-month renovation and is in one of<br />
the city’s most-loved spots, ideally placed by the Spanish Steps<br />
and Villa Borghese. In Puglia, the one to watch is the Masseria<br />
Torre Maizza hotel, which was recently taken over by Rocco<br />
Forte. In Florence, the Hotel Savoy is being modernised and<br />
will reopen in April this year.<br />
An A&K nine-night, tailor-made holiday to Italy starts at<br />
£3,045 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
TURKEY<br />
Turkey is a cultural marvel – where east meets west. It’s a<br />
richly historical land with some of the best cuisine you’ll ever<br />
taste and stunning scenery, from the Taurus Mountains to the<br />
beaches of Bodrum. New hotel openings have brought it back<br />
to the top of the agenda after a recent downturn.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum has teamed<br />
up with pioneering name in healthcare, the Mayo Clinic.<br />
Their programme is set to open in <strong>2019</strong>, further highlighting<br />
travellers’ appetite for wellness holidays. The Mayo Clinic is<br />
ranked the number one hospital in the US, and the wellness<br />
programme will focus on preventive practices, designed to<br />
inspire a more balanced lifestyle. Guests will have the choice of<br />
tailor-made experiences from one-day assessments to five-day<br />
retreats. The new Six Senses Kaplankaya enjoys a stunning<br />
position on the Aegean coast, surrounded by olive groves<br />
and cypress trees. This is a perfect destination for families<br />
wanting to take advantage of activities, classes, and cultural<br />
trips, while also delivering relaxation and luxury in its spa and<br />
dining experiences. Aman’s Amanruya once again opens its<br />
doors in its secluded spot on the scalloped Aegean coastline.<br />
The isolated resort, a scenic 30-minute drive from the bustling<br />
town of Bodrum, rests in seclusion on 24 hectares of forested<br />
hillside. It overlooks its own private bay – a rare privilege on<br />
the Bodrum Peninsula.<br />
An A&K seven-night, tailor-made holiday to Turkey starts<br />
at £2,965 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
12 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
JAPAN<br />
Japan will host the <strong>2019</strong> Rugby World Cup, and while there are<br />
12 match venues, our eyes are fixed on Osaka and the Higashi<br />
Osaka Hanazono – the country’s oldest rugby stadium. Japan’s<br />
third largest city is famous for its top-notch museums, cool<br />
urban parks, and rich food scene. British Airways will fly<br />
direct to the city from 31 March – in plenty of time for<br />
kick-off in the first match at Hanazono: Italy versus<br />
Namibia on 22 September. Direct flights into this southern<br />
city will open regions such as Setouchi’s seven prefectures<br />
and 350 islands. While best-known for Hiroshima and its<br />
Peace Memorial Museum, Setouchi is gaining traction as a<br />
destination and can easily be accessed from Osaka. Setouchi<br />
city’s winding hillside alleys and historic architecture<br />
thankfully survived the war.<br />
BED DOWN: Hotel Cycle is a former maritime warehouse<br />
that’s been converted into a complex with amazing restaurants<br />
and a bike shop. A design haven for cycle lovers and loathers,<br />
it is located at the start of the 72-kilometre Shimanami Kaido<br />
cycle path that connects the mainland, Honshu, with seven<br />
islands in the Seto Inland Sea via a series of striking bridges.<br />
A&K’s 14-night Discover Japan suggested itinerary starts at<br />
£4,445 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
BRAZIL<br />
Both 2016 and 2017 were tough on Brazil. The Olympics<br />
brought both positive and negative attention: Zika scare<br />
stories, economic downturn and far-reaching government<br />
turmoil put tourists off. But Brazil is on the up again and is<br />
abuzz with new luxury hotel openings from the bustling streets<br />
of São Paulo to the white-sand beaches of Rio de Janeiro.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: Four Seasons Hotel São Paulo is due to open<br />
at the end of 2018 in one of São Paulo’s fastest-growing and<br />
most desirable areas, Nações Unidas. Also expected to open<br />
around the end of 2018, with a fantastic location in front<br />
of Rio’s Leblon Beach, is Hotel Janeiro. There are also new<br />
charterable boats on the Amazon. Trips on these vessels can be<br />
transformed into a culinary journey. Top Brazilian chefs travel<br />
aboard with guests, creating high-end food with anything<br />
that can be foraged from the forest. Additionally, adventurous<br />
travellers are now able to visit the restricted indigenous<br />
territories of Brazil. One of the last villages remaining distinct<br />
from the Western world, visits to Kayapo Camp are exclusive<br />
to A&K and available for just two months each year. Hike with<br />
Kayapo warriors, and enjoy boat safaris on the lookout for<br />
tapir, great river otter, deer, jaguar, and puma.<br />
A&K’s 10-night Classic Brazil suggested itinerary starts at<br />
£4,695 per person (based on two sharing, includes flights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
INDIA<br />
India overflows with heritage, culture, and history and <strong>2019</strong><br />
is a very important year for this colourful country. It marks<br />
150 years since the birth of Mahatma Gandhi; 90 years<br />
since Mother Teresa arrived in Calcutta to help the sick<br />
and the country’s poorest people; and 200 years since the<br />
birth of Queen Victoria, Empress of India. After a period of<br />
restoration, the dome of the Taj Mahal will be uncovered in<br />
early <strong>2019</strong>, making Agra one of the places to be.<br />
HOTEL NEWS: New for spring <strong>2019</strong> is Taj Rishikesh Resort &<br />
Spa. The resort sits high up – 35 kilometres above Rishikesh<br />
– allowing for incredible views of the surrounding mountains<br />
as well as access to a private white-sand bank on the shore of<br />
the River Ganges. As the mighty river curves around the hotel,<br />
the 81 rooms, including 47 villas, and public areas overlook<br />
the Ganges and the pristine forest beyond. Utilising the rich<br />
expertise of the Yoga Masters of Rishikesh, this property will<br />
offer the very best of yoga and meditation in its 800-squaremetre<br />
Jiva Spa. Jaagir Lodge Dudhwa is the latest opening from<br />
The Ultimate Travelling Camp, a luxury camping experience<br />
set in Terai which borders India and Nepal. This area is still not<br />
on most travellers’ radars, and allows visitors to discover four<br />
different national parks, with the chance to see some amazing<br />
wildlife including tiger, one-horned rhino, leopard, wild<br />
elephant, sloth bear, civet, and many more.<br />
A&K’s eight-night Classic Northern India suggested itinerary<br />
starts at £2,835 per person (based on two sharing, includes<br />
flights, transfers, accommodation, and selected excursions)<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 13
EVERY<br />
DOG HAS<br />
ITS DAY<br />
IT MAY BE ELEPHANT, LION AND RHINO THAT DRAW<br />
PEOPLE TO THE OKAVANGO DELTA, BUT IT’S THE<br />
‘PAINTED’ DOGS THAT DRIVE SUE WATT WILD AS<br />
SHE GOES BEYOND THE BIG FIVE IN BOTSWANA<br />
photographer: Will Whitford<br />
A NEW LUXURY BEACH RESORT HAS OPENED ITS<br />
DOORS IN A REMOTE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO IN<br />
THE BAY OF BENGAL. WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER<br />
CHRIS CALDICOTT DISCOVERS WHY THE TAJ<br />
EXOTICA ANDAMANS IS WORTH THE JOURNEY<br />
14 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
BOTSWANA<br />
As dusk falls over the Delta, I’m transfixed by an<br />
enormous elephant heading straight towards me. He<br />
comes so close I can see the dense lashes shielding his<br />
reddish-brown eyes, the wiry hairs on his trunk and myriad<br />
scratches on his tusks. I swear I could reach out and touch him<br />
without taking a single step forward – yet he has no idea that<br />
I’m here.<br />
Neither do the other 20 bull elephant slurping and splashing<br />
around the muddy waterhole. That’s because I’m safely tucked<br />
away in a hide, a semi-submerged container with windows<br />
just above ground-level, and I’m watching all this unseen.<br />
Mesmerised, we stay here for an hour.<br />
It’s one of many magical Big Five encounters I get to<br />
experience in Botswana’s famous Okavango Delta. Traditionally,<br />
the term referred to the five most dangerous animals to hunt –<br />
elephant, rhino, Cape buffalo, leopard and lion – but today, it<br />
denotes the most popular wildlife species to tick off (by spotting<br />
not shooting) while on safari, the ones that pull in the crowds.<br />
Here in the Delta, though, there are no crowds.<br />
Our first stop is Sable Alley in Khwai Private Reserve, a<br />
25-minute bush flight from Maun, the gateway town to the<br />
Okavango. With an emphasis on affordable luxury, it’s part<br />
of Natural Selection’s portfolio of small, owner-run camps,<br />
brimming with character.<br />
The 12 stylish tented rooms and the main lounge and dining<br />
area all overlook a pan frequented by elephant and hippo, which<br />
often wander through the unfenced camp. Its soothing, natural<br />
ambience is complemented by high thatch roofs over the main<br />
open building, plenty of comfy sofas and chairs, carvings and<br />
crafts, and wooden decking leading to the swimming pool.<br />
Bordering Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park in<br />
northern Botswana, Khwai Private Reserve is a former hunting<br />
concession. Wildlife here was understandably skittish but after a<br />
couple of years of habituation, the animals now realise that guests<br />
here shoot with cameras, not guns. There are few camps in the<br />
reserve, which spans 2,000 square kilometres of woodlands, rivers<br />
and open floodplains, and it feels as if you have it all to yourself.<br />
On our first game drive, we meet Nicholas, a beautiful<br />
11-month-old leopard. He’s lying by a termite mound in shady<br />
mopane woodland, waiting patiently for mum Nicky to return<br />
from hunting. Nicky is apparently one cool, laid-back cat and has<br />
passed this on to her son. Totally chilled, he raises his head to see<br />
us then flops down again and continues snoozing.<br />
Later, we find two tiny lion cubs with their mum lying in the<br />
shade in the afternoon sun. Balls of tawny fluff with furry white<br />
bellies, they’re just two months old and are utterly adorable. Full<br />
of naughty curiosity, one cub strays too far in our direction so<br />
mum picks him up in her mouth and carries him back to safety.<br />
On game drives along the Sable Alley channel, we come across<br />
hippo wallowing in the water. Giraffe, zebra, impala, kudu,<br />
waterbuck and reedbuck amble along the plains. Famously the<br />
most aggressive and unpredictable of the Big Five, grumpy Cape<br />
buffalo caked in dried mud glare at us as we pass.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 15
FULL OF NAUGHTY CURIOSITY, ONE CUB STRAYS TOO FAR IN OUR DIRECTION<br />
SO MUM PICKS HIM UP IN HER MOUTH AND CARRIES HIM BACK TO SAFETY<br />
The Delta’s cold, clear nights are ideal for stargazing and a<br />
night at Natural Selection’s Skybeds is the perfect way to do<br />
this. An intimate, rustic camp deep in the bush, it has just three<br />
‘rooms’ – five-metre-high wooden towers like treehouses, open<br />
to the elements with the starlit sky for a ceiling.<br />
Our two-hour drive from Sable Alley includes that<br />
mesmerising encounter at the elephant hide, and we arrive<br />
at Skybeds in time for sundowners. Sipping G&Ts in the bar<br />
treehouse, we realise that elephant have joined us, drinking their<br />
own sundowner at a waterhole just beyond camp. Dinner is<br />
cooked over the campfire, then we head to bed on the top floor<br />
of our tower, snuggling up under thick duvets and that fabulous<br />
twinkling sky. But sleep doesn’t come easy – I’m too busy taking<br />
in the cosmos and counting shooting stars.<br />
Our next Delta destination is Chief ’s Island in Moremi Game<br />
Reserve, a half-hour flight away. Renowned for its high density of<br />
wildlife, the largest island in the Delta was once the royal hunting<br />
ground of local ruler Chief Moremi, who gave it to the reserve in<br />
the 1970s.<br />
Our home on this beautiful and bountiful island is Sanctuary<br />
Chief ’s Camp overlooking the Piajio floodplains in the private<br />
Mombo concession. Chief ’s exudes relaxed luxury: it’s all cream<br />
and wood décor with sumptuous leather sofas and chairs in the<br />
lounge under a high thatch roof and sunbeds shaded by calico<br />
umbrellas surrounding the pool. Chief ’s 12 spacious suites<br />
have private plunge pools and all the mod-cons you need, from<br />
Nespresso coffee machines and aircon to well-stocked mini-bars<br />
and wifi.<br />
The island certainly lives up to its reputation as a predator<br />
paradise. On game drives, we see hardly any other vehicles but<br />
plenty of lion, either alone or in prides of up to ten, prowling the<br />
plains or sleeping in the afternoon sun. We come across a huge<br />
dark-maned male lying by the track. As he gets up, he roars then<br />
stalks towards a herd of impala. The tension in the air is palpable<br />
but the antelope defiantly stand their ground, rooted to the spot<br />
as their predator walks past.<br />
On one drive, we spot a black rhino waddling gracelessly<br />
across the plain. She’s huge and prehistoric-looking, and<br />
she’s very special. Mary was brought from South Africa in<br />
an extensive relocation programme with Botswana Rhino<br />
Conservation. Secrecy surrounds the exact number translocated<br />
to Botswana, where rhino were once extinct. Our guide tells us<br />
that she’s “heavily pregnant and, unusually for a black rhino,<br />
always calm”. I’m very thankful we saw her.<br />
But it’s not all about the big beasts. On a mokoro, a traditional<br />
dug-out canoe, we glide blissfully along a lily-strewn channel<br />
spotting tiny frogs clinging on to grasses and dragonflies<br />
fluttering all around us. It’s a classic Okavango scene as the<br />
floodwaters arrive from Angola. We head back as the sun sets,<br />
reflected perfectly in the mirror-like waters.<br />
And for all the thrill of the Big Five, the animal I really love<br />
to watch is the wild dog. The following morning, we leave at a<br />
chilly 6am, aiming to reach their den before they go hunting.<br />
We find these super-efficient killing machines snuggled up<br />
together against the cold, with sated bellies and blood-stained<br />
faces. There are 10 in the pack, their huge saucer-shaped ears<br />
popping up now and then amid their palette of unique brown,<br />
white, gold and black patterned hides – no wonder these canines<br />
are known as ‘painted’ dogs.<br />
These fascinating, family-focused beasts may not be in the<br />
exclusive clique of the Big Five, but they’ve long intrigued me<br />
and my time in their company was truly special.<br />
Once again, effortlessly, the Delta delivers…<br />
previous page, from left: A wild dog; leopard on the prowl;<br />
Sanctuary Chief ’s Camp<br />
opposite, clockwise from top left: Wild dog; a lioness with her cub;<br />
a rhino in the bush; giraffe; sunset over the Delta; cruising up to Chief’s Camp<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
A&K’s 11-night Classic Botswana itinerary starts at £5,695 per<br />
person (based on two sharing, includes flights, private transfers,<br />
accommodation and selected excursions). For more information,<br />
call our Africa travel specialists on 01242 547 702.<br />
16 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
BOTSWANA<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 17
OPEN FOR<br />
BUSINESS<br />
OVER A YEAR AFTER TWO MAJOR HURRICANES MADE LANDFALL<br />
IN THE CARIBBEAN, HOTELS ARE REOPENING AND THE ISLANDS<br />
ARE BOUNCING BACK, SAYS A&K’S AMANDA SPRINGER<br />
Furious storms are nothing new in these islands<br />
but 2017’s hurricane season was unparalleled in the<br />
Caribbean. Hurricanes Irma and Maria were both<br />
Category 5 strength (top of the Saffir-Simpson scale<br />
of hurricane intensity) and 2017 was only the second<br />
season on record when two of these storms hit. Many<br />
islands were battered and damaged, but that doesn’t<br />
mean you should stay away – quite the opposite. Around<br />
70 per cent of the islands were unaffected by Irma and<br />
Maria, and tourism revenue coming into one island<br />
helps the whole region. The countries that were affected<br />
are now rebuilding and reopening, as swiftly as possible,<br />
to tourists.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your next Caribbean holiday,<br />
call our beach travel specialists on 01242 547 780.<br />
18 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
ANGUILLA<br />
Irma swept across this tiny British dependency on 6 September 2017.<br />
More than a year later, the island has mostly recovered. Over 70 per<br />
cent of the island’s villas and 95 per cent of restaurants have reopened.<br />
Most luxury hotels are welcoming guests including Four Seasons<br />
Resort and Residences, which required repairs due to storm damage,<br />
and Belmond Cap Juluca, which closed before the storms for a $121<br />
million refurbishment. Malliouhana (below) will debut 17 new rooms in<br />
early <strong>2019</strong> – including Turtle Beach-front villas.<br />
ANTIGUA & BARBUDA<br />
The dual-island nation had two blasts of the hurricane season.<br />
Barbuda, the smaller island with a population of just 2,000, was the<br />
worst hit of all the Caribbean nations – Irma’s eye passed over it on 5<br />
September. Antigua, however, only sustained minor damage. Jumby<br />
Bay Island (above), Curtain Bluff, Carlisle Bay (left) and Hermitage<br />
Bay – to name but a few – are all open as normal.<br />
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS<br />
Hurricanes Irma and Maria joined forces to inflict notable damage<br />
on the BVIs, with Virgin Gorda hit very hard. The islands were still<br />
reeling from the impact of Irma when Maria passed through. On<br />
these devastated islands, full power was only restored in spring 2018.<br />
Long-term reconstruction is underway and a few of the resort islands<br />
are reopening. Richard Branson’s Necker Island resumed welcoming<br />
guests in October 2018. Rosewood Little Dix Bay (below), which<br />
sustained significant damage, is slated to reopen in late <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
ST BARTS<br />
This tiny French overseas collective was slammed by Irma on<br />
6 September, with beach hotels sustaining the most damage.<br />
Many buildings on the island are concrete so have been rebuilt<br />
with exceptional speed. Eden Rock on St Jean Bay and<br />
Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France (above) saw Saint Barthelemy<br />
reopened in time for Christmas.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 19
I REALISED IT WOULD BE POSSIBLE TO GO<br />
FROM MELBOURNE TO ADELAIDE THROUGH<br />
WINE REGIONS I BARELY KNEW<br />
20 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
AUSTRALIA<br />
Time to<br />
WINE AND DINE<br />
STOPPING TO TASTE THE VERY BEST THAT<br />
VICTORIA AND SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAVE TO<br />
OFFER, NINA CAPLAN ALLOWS HERSELF TO<br />
BE DRIVEN TO DELIGHT IN THEIR VINEYARDS<br />
There are two great things about road tripping in<br />
Australia: the lack of complications – no borders or<br />
language changes – and the wondrous sense of freedom.<br />
There’s so much to see, and you are in control of how and when<br />
you see it. Plus, the horizons are so broad and the landscape<br />
so beautiful, you feel as if you’ve removed blinkers you never<br />
realised you were wearing.<br />
I’ve travelled the Great Ocean Road, the spectacular coastal<br />
drive between Victoria and South Australia, before; this time<br />
I decided to see what lay inland, away from that distractingly<br />
lovely shoreline, and the answer, happily, was wine. These<br />
regions are less famous than the Yarra or Clare Valleys, but their<br />
lack of renown has nothing to do with quality. I realised it would<br />
be possible to drive from Melbourne to Adelaide through wine<br />
regions I barely knew, stopping at the excellent restaurants that<br />
seem to grow like vines in grape territory, and discover a whole<br />
new Australia while I was at it. And when I say “drive”, obviously<br />
I mean “be driven”. Who wants to be behind the wheel when<br />
there’s tasting to do?<br />
From Melbourne’s fabulous QT hotel in the CBD, I went<br />
south-west, to Geelong, the little city right on the bay, to dine at<br />
Igni, a superb restaurant that prides itself on its tasting menu,<br />
invented daily according to what producers have supplied that<br />
morning. I also stopped at Geelong Cellar Door, a cosy spot<br />
with an open fire that specialises in local wines – which you can<br />
also take away.<br />
If you’re wondering what to try, Wines by Farr is a good label<br />
to look for, since they, unusually for an Aussie winery, don’t<br />
welcome visitors: the wines are so good, and quantities so small,<br />
they don’t need to. Or try Lethbridge wines, which are also<br />
superb – although you can visit Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis,<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 21
just 30 minutes drive north, and if you ring in advance they’ll<br />
prepare a platter lunch to accompany their vintages.<br />
Geelong is a great jumping-off point, not into the bay but into<br />
the vineyards that benefit from its cooling influence. There are<br />
plenty to choose from: Leura Park Estate; Jack Rabbit Vineyard,<br />
which has a restaurant with panoramic views; Oakdene, where<br />
the owner’s offbeat artistic sensibility shows in artworks dotted<br />
round the premises, and you taste the wines in what looks like<br />
a house tipped on its head; and Scotchmans Hill, from which<br />
winemaker Robin Brockett claims you can see all the way to<br />
Melbourne, although I’m not sure why you would particularly<br />
want to. Better to admire the vines from the old-style<br />
farmhouse, in between sampling platters of nibbles, and tasting<br />
their excellent wines.<br />
Another way to enjoy the scenery is on the Q Train, a<br />
crazy notion to show off the view and the local produce via a<br />
decommissioned locomotive brought down from Queensland.<br />
A six-course tasting menu is served in First Class; dishes arrive<br />
on a tiered tray of the kind more usually seen in hotels serving<br />
afternoon tea, and local wines are served as the train slides past<br />
the birdlife of Port Phillip Heads Marine National Park and the<br />
scenic waters of Swan Bay.<br />
Under no circumstances should anyone travelling this<br />
route miss out on Brae – that is, unless they hate great food<br />
and wine. Dan Hunter made his name at the Royal Mail Hotel<br />
(still worth a stop for his successor Robin Wickens’ restaurant<br />
– and the largest privately owned wine cellar in the Southern<br />
Hemisphere), but has since moved to Birregurra and created<br />
a gastronomic marvel in a former farmhouse. Here, he and<br />
his team mill their own flour and grow their own produce.<br />
The multi-course menu in the restaurant, from which you can<br />
look outward onto gum trees or inward to the busy kitchen, is<br />
an exceptional blend of local ingredients, witty presentation<br />
and a broad overview on what’s needed to create a worldclass<br />
restaurant. There are six rooms, all with record players,<br />
baths overlooking the countryside, and the best mini-bar I’ve<br />
ever seen: half bottles from makers like Bill Downie, whose<br />
recherché wines are hard to find even in big cities.<br />
Drive across the invisible border into South Australia and the<br />
land changes subtly: first there’s the Blue Lake, a volcanic crater<br />
near Mount Gambier filled with water that turns turquoise in<br />
the summer (I was there in winter and it’s pretty blue then, too);<br />
then the Naracoorte Caves, a series of grottos discovered in 1859<br />
by Reverend Tenison-Woods, who claimed they were Australian<br />
evidence of the Biblical flood. The caves are filled with the bones<br />
of dinosaurs and other prehistoric creatures that fell into these<br />
hollows and were trapped and preserved, including marsupials,<br />
lion and gargantuan kangaroo, and the eerie lighting and<br />
dramatic rock formations make for a memorable experience of<br />
the land that nurtures the vines above.<br />
The third place to see the differences between this patch of<br />
Australia and every other region is in the glass. The distinctive<br />
red soil of Coonawarra makes a great home for cabernet<br />
sauvignon in particular. There’s plenty of tasty proof, at Redman<br />
Wines, Katnook Estate, Wynns – the longest-serving winery,<br />
with an interesting mini-museum and the original train station,<br />
long defunct, on their property – and Raidis Estate, where a<br />
young couple are making great wines in an informal setting that<br />
bodes well for the next generation of cabernet lovers.<br />
And nobody goes hungry in Coonawarra, either. There’s<br />
terrific food overlooking the vines at Hollick Estate or in town at<br />
Pipers of Penola, a fine-tuned little place with a fabulous list of<br />
local bottles.<br />
Then it’s on to McLaren Vale, where Chester Osborn of<br />
d’Arenberg wines has built a showplace for his products that’s<br />
as oddball as he is: a giant Rubik’s Cube among the vines filled<br />
22 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
AUSTRALIA<br />
with experiences from sensory chambers to 180-degree filmic<br />
views of the vineyards, to an opportunity to blend your very<br />
own d’Arenberg. And when the craziness gets too much (even<br />
the toilets have bonkers decoration), you can nip across to their<br />
old-fashioned restaurant, d’Arrys Verandah, for a superb lunch<br />
made from local ingredients.<br />
Everybody is talking about the Cube, but a quieter McLaren<br />
Vale experience that nobody should miss is feeding kangaroo<br />
at Woodstock Wine Estate. Their wines are excellent too, but<br />
there’s nothing quite like entering an enclosure where young<br />
roos bound up for bottled milk, while a friendly emu looks on<br />
wondering what all the fuss is about.<br />
If you have time on the gorgeous drive to the Adelaide<br />
Hills, Yangarra Estate Vineyard has a tasting room like a well<br />
upholstered living room and a selection of wines made from<br />
southern Rhône varieties that could give the vignerons of<br />
Châteauneuf du Pape a run for their money. Nip east before<br />
you drive west into Adelaide for lunch at Bird in Hand winery,<br />
where the food is excellent, there are back vintages open to try,<br />
and the birds in question – rose-breasted cockatoos, or galahs –<br />
hop around the vines as if they own the place.<br />
previous page: d'Arenberg Cube<br />
clockwise from top left: Blue Lake, near Mount Gambier; Woodstock<br />
Wine Estate; autumn in Adelaide Hills; Bird in Hand Winery; d’Arenberg Cube<br />
Dead Arm shiraz vertical masterclass<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your driving tour of Southern<br />
Australia’s wineries, call our Australasia travel specialists on<br />
01242 547 826.<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
The QT Melbourne is slap-bang in the middle of the city’s CBD. This<br />
old cinema has been transformed into an industrial chic boutique<br />
hotel. There’s a buzzing rooftop bar, a Japanese knife store operated<br />
by tenth-generation sword makers, and the walls are dressed with<br />
specially commissioned artworks. Located on the famed Great<br />
Ocean Road, in the village of Apollo Bay, Captains at the Bay is an<br />
11-room seaside retreat that has the beach in easy reach. Formerly an<br />
agricultural outpost built by a German immigrant in the 19th century,<br />
The Barn in Mount Gambier is set in two hectares of manicured, English<br />
gardens and is ideal for making hay during a stay. Constantly enticing<br />
epicureans, The Louise is a slice of contemporary luxe in Barossa<br />
Valley’s shiraz vine-lined hillside. Guests rave about the outstanding<br />
restaurant and 15 suites with outdoor rainshowers in most. The Mayfair<br />
Hotel on Adelaide’s King William Street has a gleaming, and gargoyletopped<br />
Art Deco façade, but don’t let that scare you away. This sleek,<br />
170-room hotel recently had a $55 million refurb and has upped<br />
Adelaide’s accommodation game as a result. AD<br />
clockwise from top: The QT Melbourne; The Louise vineyards; The Mayfair;<br />
The Louise Appellation dining; Captains at the Bay<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 23
ADELAIDE<br />
FLINDERS RANGES<br />
TOP 10 REASONS TO VISIT<br />
ADELAIDE<br />
AND SOUTH<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
KANGAROO<br />
ISLAND<br />
FLEURIEU<br />
PENINSULA<br />
BAROSSA VALLEY<br />
ADELAIDE<br />
ADELAIDE HILLS<br />
MCLAREN VALE<br />
The understated, and by many undiscovered, gem of Australia, Adelaide is idyllically located<br />
between white-sand beaches and green rolling hills. This compact, accessible city is the<br />
gateway to more than 200 vineyards, all within an hour’s drive. With impeccable foodie<br />
credentials, Adelaide has a vibrant market precinct and scattering of quirky bars lining the<br />
famous laneways. But lovely as it is, there’s more to South Australia than its capital – and if<br />
you need convincing, here are our top reasons why you should visit…<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to discuss your next<br />
holiday to Adelaide and South Australia, call<br />
our travel specialists on 01242 547 826.<br />
1<br />
STAY IN TRUE LUXURY<br />
A heritage-listed Art Deco building, the Mayfair Hotel<br />
displays all the class of its London namesake. Rubbing<br />
shoulders with Adelaide’s burgeoning laneway bars and<br />
incredible restaurants, you’ll be rewarded for venturing<br />
out from its tastefully decorated rooms – but if you’d rather<br />
stay put, the Mayfair’s 13th-floor Hennessey Bar is stunning.<br />
The elegant décor, from marble bar to glittering chandelier,<br />
spills out on to a stylish deck and balcony, allowing you to<br />
enjoy Adelaide’s Mediterranean climate.<br />
WATCH WILDLIFE IN THE HILLS<br />
If touring gently rolling hills, historic villages, and country roads lined with grapevines<br />
appeals, read on. An easy 30-minute drive east of the city is the cool countryside of<br />
the Adelaide Hills. Kick off the day with an excellent breakfast and panoramic views<br />
at Mount Lofty, before meeting kangaroo, koala, wallaby, emu, Tasmanian devil, and<br />
wombat at Cleland Wildlife Park. Of the nearly 50 wineries in the region, our favourite<br />
is Penfolds Grange for a tour and to dine at their cellar door.<br />
24 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
2
3<br />
HIT THE BEACH<br />
The picturesque Fleurieu Peninsula is home<br />
to fantastic surf beaches and pretty harbour<br />
villages. Just a 45-minute drive south of<br />
Adelaide, you can laze on the sand, or if you’re<br />
feeling active, fish, snorkel, and scuba dive.<br />
At the historic river port town of Goolwa,<br />
Australia’s longest river, the Murray, meets<br />
the sea. Keep an eye out for seal and penguin,<br />
which frequent the coast. And if you haven’t yet<br />
had your fill, the charming McLaren Vale has<br />
over 65 wineries open for tastings.<br />
WINE AND DINE IN<br />
THE BAROSSA<br />
The lovely Barossa valley is South Australia’s most<br />
famous wine region, with more than 150 wineries<br />
and around 80 cellar doors. Seppeltsfield Wines offers<br />
the chance to taste a tawny fortified vintage from the<br />
year you were born, straight out of the barrel – an<br />
experience enjoyed by HRH Prince Charles and<br />
the Duchess of Cornwall when they visited. A&K<br />
recommends a hot-air balloon ride to take in an aerial<br />
view of the vineyards. For the more active, a cycling<br />
tour will help build up a thirst.<br />
4<br />
IMAGE: SEPPELTSFIELD WINES<br />
5<br />
SLEEP AMID THE VINES<br />
We highly recommend a stay at The Louise, a winery<br />
hotel set on a hill and surrounded by spreading grape<br />
vines as far as the eye can see. There are just 15 suites,<br />
each with its own terrace, allowing you to take in<br />
the view while sampling world-class local wines. The<br />
hotel’s Appellation Restaurant is well worth a visit,<br />
attracting international acclaim with its locally sourced<br />
produce. The daily chef ’s tasting menu is our favourite.<br />
WORDS: JAMES TREACY<br />
HOP OVER TO KANGAROO ISLAND<br />
Known to locals as KI, this wildlife haven seems like something out of a<br />
storybook. With just 4,000 people living on the island, there’s plenty of scope<br />
to find a patch of wilderness and get under the skin of this incredible place.<br />
For the active visitor, a trip through the rock formations and a hike along the<br />
spectacular new KI Wilderness Trail – a three-hour walk along the coast –<br />
are a must. With the Southern Ocean on one side, on the other you can spot<br />
abundant wildlife including kangaroo, koala and many birds.<br />
6<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 25
EXPERIENCE A SHORE THING<br />
Sitting on the clifftop, surrounded by sand dunes, boutique hotel Southern<br />
Ocean Lodge is the stuff of (sweet) dreams – and a favourite haunt of the<br />
rich and famous. The Great Room serves as the lobby, with exhilarating<br />
views of the Southern Ocean crashing against the rocks below. The open<br />
bar and wine cellar allow you to continue your South Australian wine<br />
odyssey in comfort. An eco-friendly design, the lodge runs on rainwater,<br />
solar power, and compost recycling. Rooms are effortlessly cool, and the<br />
Osprey Pavilion is our top choice. Don’t miss the Kangas and Kanapes<br />
experience – sunset drinks surrounded by kangaroo in their natural habitat.<br />
7<br />
8<br />
GET OUT IN THE OUTBACK<br />
Remember the sweeping landscapes of the film Australia, starring Nicole<br />
Kidman? You can experience the red desert in person at Arkaba Conservancy<br />
in the Flinders Ranges. A four-and-a-half-hour drive, or quick flight north<br />
of Adelaide, this former sheep station is an elegant 1850s homestead and<br />
wildlife sanctuary set across 24,000 hectares, offering guests an all-inclusive<br />
experience in its five elegant rooms. Each day, 4x4 safaris allow you to get<br />
close to the wildlife and learn about award-winning conservancy projects. If<br />
you’re feeling adventurous, you can book a guided walk and sleep in campsite<br />
swags for two nights. Hot water is solar-generated at the homestead, with no<br />
appliances in rooms, and a decanter of rainwater on bedside tables.<br />
EAT AT AUSTRALIA’S<br />
BEST RESTAURANT<br />
Scottish chef Jock Zonfrillo, winner of MasterChef<br />
Australia, is an odd champion for the Aboriginal food<br />
revolution. Nonetheless, Orana has been named Australia’s<br />
Restaurant of the Year at the Good Food Guide Awards.<br />
Sitting in the centre of Adelaide’s Rundle Street, the intimate<br />
dining spot focuses on native Australian ingredients and<br />
traditional cooking methods. Orana means “welcome” in<br />
some Aboriginal languages, and Zonfrillo has spent years<br />
researching with the Aborigines. Everything cooked in the<br />
restaurant is foraged by the chef ’s team, keeping the menu<br />
in line with the seasons.<br />
9<br />
IMAGE: MATTHEW TURNER<br />
10<br />
TOUR WITH A LOCAL<br />
Adelaide is small and compact, and with a friendly welcome<br />
guaranteed, you’ll soon feel at home in its European-style<br />
streets and lush green spaces. One way to accelerate the process<br />
is to take an electric pedicab tour run by knowledgeable locals,<br />
exploring the city’s intricate laneway networks, parks, cafés, and<br />
boutiques. Lasting from one to two hours, let your guide know<br />
what you’d like to see, and they’ll tailor the experience for you.<br />
26 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
RAPID BAY, FLEURIEU PENINSULA<br />
WELCOME TO OUR BACKYARD.<br />
Paradise awaits on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island, the Eyre Peninsula and the Fleurieu<br />
Peninsula, where coastlines stretch hundreds of miles and the only footprints you’ll spot are<br />
your own. Of course, our locals will be more than happy to show you around. Follow the lead of<br />
dolphins and sea lions to crystal-clear coves with snow-white sand, then reward your wonder<br />
with world-famous seafood and legendary local wine. Soak up the best of Adelaide and unearth<br />
the raw beauty of South Australia in <strong>2019</strong>. Visit abercrombiekent.co.uk or call 01242 547 826.
aloha<br />
Hawaii<br />
WHETHER YOU’RE TRAVELLING WITH FAMILY OR FRIENDS,<br />
HONEYMOONING, OR SEEKING ADVENTURE, ONE OF HAWAII’S ISLANDS<br />
WILL PROVE THE PERFECT DESTINATION, SAYS A&K'S CHARLOTTE WELLS<br />
Sandy beaches, surf competitions, movie<br />
blockbuster backdrops – the state of Hawaii<br />
has it all, but it is also a haven of escape<br />
and holiday bliss. A place with a distinctive<br />
personality, it’s defined by its island culture,<br />
unique nature, and looming volcanoes.<br />
The 143 islands of Hawaii make up an<br />
archipelago spanning 2,400 kilometres. Hawaii<br />
will celebrate its 60th anniversary as a US state<br />
in <strong>2019</strong>, but it is far from a typical American<br />
destination. The only state comprised of islands,<br />
Hawaii has its own time zone and a diverse ethnic<br />
mix – ranging through European, Polynesian,<br />
American, Asian, Japanese, and Chinese.<br />
Looking back a few decades, Hawaii was<br />
synonymous with huge, faceless hotels focused<br />
solely on US travellers looking to emulate Elvis<br />
Presley’s lifestyle. Nowadays, visitors are savvier<br />
and more international, seeking luxury and<br />
adventure, cultural experiences, and a chance to<br />
discover the natural world. Accommodation here<br />
has had to step up to cope with demand.<br />
Hawaii offers so much that it can be hard to<br />
decide which island to choose, and how to spend<br />
your time. So here’s a guide to the best bits of its<br />
largest landmasses, and how to go about making<br />
the most of a trip here. Hawaii is a place to<br />
treasure – absorb the culture, the landscape,<br />
the sun, the memories. Every island will delight<br />
you in its own unique way.<br />
ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: KATY CALDERWOOD<br />
28 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
HAWAII<br />
Kauai<br />
GOOD FOR: ADRENALIN JUNKIES AND THRILL SEEKERS<br />
Kauai is the oldest, northernmost, and fourth largest of Hawaii’s<br />
main islands. You may recognise it as the backdrop for films<br />
including Jurassic Park, Blue Hawaii, South Pacific and The<br />
Descendants. This location is all about natural beauty and is<br />
commonly known as the ‘Garden Island’. While there is surfing to<br />
be done on its laid-back Na Pali, Kauai’s main attractions are its<br />
landscapes – unspoilt rainforests, deep valleys, and awe-inspiring<br />
cliffs dominate the scenery.<br />
It’s an island for the outdoorsy and the active, with much of<br />
it only accessible by sea or air. The Waimea Canyon or ‘Grand<br />
Canyon of the Pacific’ may not be as large as its Arizona cousin,<br />
but it is unique to the area. It’s 22 kilometres long, 1,600 metres<br />
wide and 1,100 metres deep, showcasing waterfalls, and inland<br />
and ocean vistas, and offers beautiful hikes into Kōke‘e State Park.<br />
For other outdoor activities, kayaking down the island’s only<br />
navigable river, the Wailua, is an excellent few hours of exercise;<br />
or try to spot bird species such as frigate, booby and Laysan<br />
albatross from the Daniel K Inouye Kilauea Lighthouse on the<br />
island’s northernmost tip. In the right season and if you’re lucky,<br />
humpback whale also pass this point, but even without seeing a<br />
whale, a trip here is never wasted thanks to the spectacular views<br />
of the surrounding peninsula and sea.<br />
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:<br />
• Take an overnight adventure into the Waimea Canyon and enjoy<br />
two days of swimming, relaxing, and exploring petroglyphs and<br />
unique flora and fauna.<br />
Oahu<br />
GOOD FOR: FAMILIES SEEKING FUN, SUN, AND SURF<br />
Oahu is the ‘Gathering Island’, a melting pot of culture, sport,<br />
nature, and family-friendly activities. The birthplace of Barack<br />
Obama combines the Orient and the Occident, the modern and<br />
the ancient. This ‘heart of Hawaii’ has the largest population of<br />
the islands and is home to Honolulu, the state capital, a bustling<br />
metropolis of shops and cultural highlights. Here you can visit the<br />
Honolulu Museum of Art, ‘Iolani Palace, the Kawaiaha‘o Church,<br />
and the Bishop Museum, helping you to understand more about<br />
the heritage of this beautiful island and its sometimes sad history.<br />
A visit to Pearl Harbor is a poignant and powerful reminder of<br />
tragic times in World War II, as well as a commemoration of those<br />
who lost their lives.<br />
Oahu is more than its history, though, and Kualoa Ranch offers<br />
activities for families including zip-lining, mountain biking, and<br />
ATV drives, horse riding, and kayaking against the backdrop of<br />
movie sets from Jurassic Park, Lost, Godzilla, 50 First Dates and<br />
You, Me and Dupree. For even more active adventures, there are<br />
remote hikes to be taken on the Leeward Coast and up to Kaena<br />
Point for birdwatching and perhaps whale spotting. Or for surf<br />
lovers, this is the place to be for the annual Vans Triple Crown<br />
surf competition.<br />
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:<br />
• Explore the best of Oahu with a local insider revealing hidden<br />
gems from remote beaches to authentic local culture.<br />
• Enjoy serious big game fishing off the coast aboard a private<br />
yacht charter, with family or friends.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 29
Lanai and Molokai<br />
GOOD FOR: HONEYMOONERS AND HISTORY BUFFS<br />
SEEKING OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK EXPERIENCES<br />
Lanai<br />
The smaller island of Lanai has only 3,200 inhabitants and the<br />
grandly named Lanai City may be more of a village, but don’t be<br />
fooled. Lanai has many a claim to fame. Known for its historical<br />
industry, the ‘Pineapple Island’ was bought by James Dole (founder<br />
of what is now the Dole Food Company). Dole bought Lanai<br />
in 1922, creating an island-wide pineapple plantation – its final<br />
pineapple was harvested in 1992.<br />
Although one of the most remote, rural, and private islands,<br />
Lanai now has another famous owner. In 2012, Oracle founder<br />
Larry Ellison bought 97 per cent of Lanai for a record $600<br />
million, wanting to make it the “first economically viable,<br />
100 per cent green community”.<br />
Whether he can achieve this remains to be seen and the island<br />
remains divided into two distinct parts – luxury resort tourism<br />
and low-key escapism. In the south, five-star resorts and golf<br />
courses dominate an idyllic honeymoon destination – around<br />
here, head for romantic sundowners and sunsets over Hulopoe<br />
Bay, exciting cruises around Manele Bay to see spinner dolphin<br />
at play, and exhilarating hikes to Puu Pehe, known fondly as<br />
‘Sweetheart Rock’.<br />
In contrast, head north for a more active adventure, where 643<br />
kilometres of Lanai’s roads are dirt track, accessible only by 4x4<br />
vehicles. The deserted beaches here will delight you, including<br />
Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach) or, for a more horticultural trip, seek<br />
out Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Lanai is also famed for<br />
its sea cliffs, not as high as those of Molokai, but dramatic and<br />
disconcerting nevertheless. These rocky edifices rise from 105<br />
metres around Kaumalapau Harbor to 300 metres along the<br />
coast and the sea stacks offshore at Nänähoa have to be seen to<br />
be believed.<br />
Molokai<br />
Oh, Molokai – an island of discovery and delight. But it’s<br />
somewhere most tourists to Hawaii simply don’t reach. There’s not<br />
much there, no amenities to speak of – just a few local cafés for the<br />
islanders (and those who make the extra effort to visit). But those<br />
tourists who do come here are well rewarded.<br />
Famed for its lack of infrastructure, Molokai is nature<br />
undiscovered and a step back in time to the ‘old Hawaii’. The<br />
residents, numbering around 7,500, are mostly native Hawaiian<br />
and have a strong affiliation to the area’s heritage and history.<br />
This area was once shunned and was used as a leper colony in<br />
the 1800s within the confines of Kalaupapa National Historical<br />
Park. Nowadays this park is only accessible by mule or on foot, but<br />
it’s worth a visit to understand its history and see its flora and<br />
fauna. Many of these species are federally listed as threatened and<br />
endangered and here you may also spot monk seal, humpback<br />
whale, and green sea turtle. At the edge of the park are the North<br />
Shore Pali Cliffs – the tallest sea cliffs in the world – with views<br />
over the Pacific.<br />
For something unique on Molokai, a visit to Hoolehua Post<br />
Office is great fun. Here, you can head to the Post-a-Nut counter<br />
and mail a free coconut back to friends and family. Let them<br />
experience a taste of the exotic, just like you.<br />
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:<br />
• Enjoy a challenging canoe trip to Molokini. Take part in a<br />
stunning, yet rigorous, paddle and then jump in for truly<br />
spectacular snorkelling.<br />
• Island hop on a 50-minute flight from Kahului to Molokai,<br />
passing over stunning views of west Maui’s rugged terrain.<br />
previous page: Na Pali coast, Kauai; Waimea Canyon, Kauai<br />
left to right: Sweetheart Rock, Lanai; beach off the Road to Hana,<br />
Maui; lava flow off the coast of Big Island<br />
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:<br />
• Experience a relaxing and romantic catamaran sail as the sun sets<br />
over beautiful Lanai.<br />
• Ride through the hills surrounding Koele on horseback following<br />
a ranch hand who will share the history of Lanai and the best<br />
vistas to appreciate its beauty.<br />
30 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
HAWAII<br />
Maui<br />
GOOD FOR: HONEYMOONERS AND THOSE<br />
SEEKING AUTHENTICITY ON THE ISLANDS<br />
Maui is the ‘Valley Isle’, boasting local charm, community spirit,<br />
and activities that will keep you enjoying the Hawaii countryside<br />
and outdoors all day long. The second largest Hawaiian island,<br />
it prides itself on breathtaking scenery, lunar landscapes, and<br />
bamboo forests, alongside its beachside opportunities for whale<br />
watching, luau experiences, and excellent local cuisine including<br />
Hawaii’s must-eat shave ice.<br />
There are two sides to Maui that should both be experienced.<br />
The first and the most touristy is the Road to Hana – an 84-<br />
kilometre stretch that connects the town of Hana with Kahului.<br />
With a 40 kilometre per hour speed limit on most of the route,<br />
it’s a perfect way to spend time, meandering past waterfalls, sea<br />
cliffs, rainforests, and beaches, and navigating hairpin bends. It’s<br />
a testing drive (and sometimes called ‘the Divorce Highway’), but<br />
it gives a lot back to those making the effort. Stopping off at the<br />
many roadside stalls means you can experience an authentic side<br />
to Maui – peruse flowers and lei, pineapples, banana bread, and<br />
local jewellery – and then take a break at the Pools of Oheo for a<br />
refreshing dip.<br />
Artisan products are big business in Maui – and a visit to the<br />
O’o Farm in Kula guarantees coffee lovers an experience of passion<br />
and pride. This is coffee produced from seed to cup and is well<br />
worth a detour. Craft beer should be sampled at Maui Brewing<br />
in Kihei and the spirits on the island are very powerful – Ocean<br />
Organic Vodka draws its strength from the deep ocean water used<br />
in its production, while liquors from Hali’imaile Farm are locally<br />
produced from the field to the bottle – something the owners are<br />
rightly proud of.<br />
It’s with good reason that Condé Nast Traveller has named Maui<br />
the best island in Hawaii for more than 20 years.<br />
Island of Hawaii<br />
GOOD FOR: FAMILY HOLIDAYS WITH ACTIVE TEENAGERS<br />
The ‘Big Island’ of Hawaii is also its youngest – and it really does<br />
have it all. Several of the world’s climate zones are found here as<br />
well as cosmopolitan bustle, natural beauty, and tourist bounty,<br />
plus gastronomical excellence. If it comes to choosing a Hawaiian<br />
island holiday and you don’t know where to start, this is probably<br />
the one for you.<br />
For a relaxing, break, there’s golf, luxury resorts and well-being<br />
spas, authentic Hawaiian paniolos (cowboys), and home-grown<br />
coffee to get you through every fun-packed day. In the main city<br />
of Hilo, you can buy anything you could desire, and this vibrancy<br />
lends itself to farmers’ markets, art museums, street-side cafés for<br />
people-watching, shops, and even a rainforest zoo.<br />
But there is also so much more. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park<br />
is simply unmissable. Here are three of the state’s most stunning<br />
volcanoes – two of which are active. Mauna Loa is the world’s<br />
tallest volcano, while its little sister Kīlauea sits 2,743 metres lower.<br />
This is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, with bubbling<br />
lava and molten magma. Part of the same park is the world’s tallest<br />
mountain (when measured from its seabed base), Mauna Kea.<br />
The area’s geology is fascinating, even for amateur enthusiasts.<br />
For those that can bear to tear themselves away from the<br />
volcanoes, the black sand of Punalu‘u Beach in the south and<br />
the nearby volcanic, geothermal baths are worthy of a visit,<br />
as are the views from Waipi‘o Valley Lookout, from where<br />
you can see the tropical beauty of the Valley of the Kings.<br />
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:<br />
• Be guided off-the-beaten path for an amazing blend of nature,<br />
culture, and a little history around the Big Island’s most<br />
awe-inspiring sites, and greet the day from the top of Mauna Kea.<br />
• Take a scenic sunset cruise aboard a state-of-the-art catamaran<br />
then strap on your snorkel gear and dive in.<br />
• Get up close to gentle manta ray, when you snorkel in the waters<br />
off the beautiful island of Kona – the only place this can be done<br />
in the islands.<br />
• Enjoy a private, curated beach experience from a traditional<br />
luau to an intimate ceremony on Kona.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, advice on which island is right for you,<br />
or to book your holiday to Hawaii, call our North America travel<br />
specialists on 01242 547 717.<br />
MAKE IT MEMORABLE WITH A&K:<br />
• Soar above the traffic and twists of the road to Hana by<br />
helicopter, passing over Haleakala volcano as well.<br />
• Learn some new moves during a luau experience and participate<br />
in traditional cultural dances followed by an authentic meal.<br />
• Visit from December to March and view humpback whale passing<br />
by from the comfort of your ocean-facing hotel room.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 31
MEET THE GUIDE<br />
GARTH HOVELL<br />
FOR 25 YEARS, A&K’S GARTH HOVELL HAS BEEN ONE OF AFRICA’S TOP GUIDES, IN DEMAND<br />
BY THE MOST DISCERNING. HE TELLS ALICIA DEVENEY HOW HE’S NOW GOING GLOBAL<br />
Named ‘Top Safari Guide’ at the 2018 Wanderlust World<br />
Guide Awards, Garth Hovell is the real deal, with guests<br />
calling him “the best – hands down”. Born in the Eastern<br />
Highlands of what was then Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), the<br />
43-year-old caught the wildlife bug early.<br />
Aged five, he went to boarding school in Melsetter National Park<br />
(since renamed Chimanimani), and was fascinated by the wardens.<br />
“I would watch these guys who seemed so connected with nature<br />
and the environment around them, and I just knew I wanted to be<br />
like them,” Hovell remembers. Animal encounters were the norm<br />
in the wild school grounds. “One day, I was running along a road<br />
sloping up a hill with my head down and I heard a snort. I looked<br />
up and there was an eland bull standing above me on the road. It<br />
jumped right over my head and ran off into the bush,” he recounts<br />
with glee.<br />
During the school holidays, Hovell’s miner parents – who<br />
moved to Botswana when Garth was 10 years old – took the<br />
wildlife-obsessed boy to national parks all over East Africa.<br />
And even when his parents couldn’t travel, Hovell wasn’t sitting<br />
at home. Expat family friends would take Garth with them on<br />
holiday. “Everyone knew I loved the outdoors and that I was<br />
handy around a camp. A good kid to have around on safari,” he<br />
laughingly recounts.<br />
Upon leaving school aged 17, Hovell and his classmates were<br />
all faced with the choice of university or an apprenticeship. For<br />
the hands-on teenager, the decision was obvious, and he moved<br />
to Victoria Falls to work towards his safari guide qualifications.<br />
When he passed his Guide’s Proficiency Exam in 1998, he was the<br />
youngest person ever to attain what was then the world’s most elite<br />
guiding credential. “That year, 32 of us took the exam and only<br />
three of us passed,” Hovell says with pride. The culmination of a<br />
four-year apprenticeship, passing this exam licensed him to walk<br />
unaccompanied with a rifle in any national park in Zimbabwe.<br />
But as the political situation in the landlocked country<br />
deteriorated and tourist numbers declined, Zimbabwe’s elite<br />
guiding fraternity scattered. Thanks to the reputation they enjoyed,<br />
they were highly sought-after all over Africa, and the world. Many,<br />
including Hovell, who had moved to Zambia, set up training and<br />
licence schemes, running guiding qualifications throughout the<br />
continent. “I was on the Guiding Examiners’ Committee for the<br />
South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks,” he says.<br />
While working in Zambia, Hovell started to spread his wings.<br />
“The season was short, and in the off-season I was guiding all<br />
over the world. I worked in Australia, Russia, Malaysia; I did two<br />
32 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
seasons in Ranthambore in India.” As well as tracking tiger, one of<br />
Hovell’s favourite animals for its sheer power, size, elegance, and<br />
majesty, it was in India where Garth met Lindsay, a Californian<br />
whom he would later marry and return with to Zambia.<br />
At around this time Hovell’s reputation as a guide came to the<br />
attention of Abercrombie & Kent founder Geoffrey Kent. “Geoff<br />
was looking for someone to conduct a VIP safari trip. He needed<br />
a top guide and apparently my name came up a few times.” This<br />
A&K safari would be the first of many and Hovell cites Kent as one<br />
of his greatest influences. “Geoff is creative and brave. He thinks<br />
outside the box. I learnt a lot from him.”<br />
Another influential figure in Hovell’s career was Howard G.<br />
Buffett, on whose advice Garth bought a decent camera and started<br />
to hone his photography skills. He now acts as his guiding clients’<br />
personal photographer, chronicling their journeys from South<br />
America and Russia to Garth’s home territory of West Africa.<br />
Clients hail him as an “excellent photographer” as well as praising<br />
his “flawless guiding”.<br />
Although lauded as a safari specialist, Hovell is now something<br />
of a global expert – credit for which he gives to his parents, and<br />
National Geographic magazine.<br />
“When we moved to Botswana,<br />
my parents bought hundreds of<br />
National Geographics dating back<br />
to the 1950s from another family.<br />
We didn’t have a TV so that’s<br />
how I entertained myself. I’ve<br />
spent a lifetime learning about<br />
the natural world.”<br />
Aided by technological advances<br />
and the proliferation of private jets,<br />
Hovell is now able to lead<br />
pan-African, pan-South American,<br />
and pan-Asian trips with A&K from<br />
his base in the UK’s Cotswolds. “In<br />
the old days, you would go on safari for six weeks and maybe do<br />
one country. Nowadays you can see six countries in two weeks.”<br />
Does that mean that people are simply dipping into countries? Not<br />
at all, he says: clients who travel with A&K want to be educated<br />
and the role of the private guide is to impart in-depth knowledge.<br />
Is there anywhere he hasn’t been, anything he hasn’t seen?<br />
“I’ve been to Borneo several times and still never seen a clouded<br />
leopard. And I haven’t really explored West Africa.”<br />
Does he have a favourite destination? “Asia, and Central and<br />
South America for their monumental archaeological sites; I’ve<br />
been to Easter Island eight or nine times and seeing the moai<br />
sculptures still wows me; but for sheer diversity of large mammals,<br />
you can’t beat Africa.” For first-time Africa visitors, where would<br />
Hovell recommend? “Africa has a way of getting under your skin,<br />
it’s an evolution. First-timers go to Kenya and Tanzania. Then<br />
Botswana and South Africa. And then, they start to go off-thebeaten<br />
track.”<br />
Has he ever been frightened for himself or his guests? “Sure –<br />
not that they ever knew it,” he laughs. As he recounts campfire tales<br />
of charging elephant protecting their young and other near-misses,<br />
including saving a guest from a collision with the one car driving<br />
along the one road in a remote desert, it becomes clear why truly<br />
great private guides are so valued. “Guest safety is paramount. My<br />
clients want to go to far-out places, often with their kids. And that’s<br />
why I’m there: to be their safety net.”<br />
When he passed his Guide’s<br />
Proficiency Exam in 1998, he was<br />
the youngest person ever to attain<br />
the elite guide credential<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 33
34 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong><br />
of Spain
SPAIN<br />
IN SEARCH OF IBERIAN IDIOSYNCRASIES SCATTERED ALONG THE ROAD LESS<br />
TRODDEN, PENELOPE RANCE TAKES A TOUR OF ANDALUSIA IN THE<br />
COMPANY OF A&K REGIONAL EXPERT SIMON BUTLER-MADDEN<br />
Hidden between the Costas and Córdoba, there is so<br />
much more to southern Spain than a city break or<br />
fly-and-flop beach holiday. A journey around<br />
Andalusia unlocks a treasure trove of delights overlooked on<br />
a standard Spanish sojourn. I am lucky enough to be escorted<br />
by A&K expert Simon Butler-Madden, who opens the doors to<br />
Seville, Córdoba, and Granada – and beyond, to the monuments<br />
of the Muslim occupation and an unspoiled countryside of<br />
pretty villages, rolling fields, and farms where fighting bulls are<br />
bred and olive oil pressed, spread out beneath the white peaks of<br />
the Sierra Nevada.<br />
CÓRDOBA AND CASTLES<br />
Our tour starts in Córdoba, once an important Roman city<br />
set on the River Guadalquivir. At its heart is the Mezquita, a<br />
cathedral built within a mosque. “Miraculously, unlike most<br />
mosques in Andalusia, it was neither destroyed nor converted<br />
into a church, but rather became incorporated into the Christian<br />
monument,” says Simon. “In the 16th century, they built this late<br />
Gothic, early Baroque Christian cathedral in the middle of the<br />
mosque’s forest of arches.”<br />
For an unparalleled view of the Mezquita, we walk over<br />
another historic monument, the Roman pedestrian bridge<br />
across the river, then enter the maze of whitewashed streets<br />
and private patios with their famous flowers that make up the<br />
Jewish Quarter.<br />
After exploring CÓrdoba, we drive out of the city to the ruins<br />
of the Palace of Medina Azahara which, until its destruction<br />
in the 11th century, was alleged to be the most magnificent<br />
building in Moorish Spain. A 24-kilometre detour takes us to<br />
Almodovar del Río where, Simon promises, the beautifully<br />
preserved castle is one of the most spectacular in the country.<br />
THE ROAD THROUGH THE HILLS<br />
Rather than following the herd on the charge to Granada,<br />
we take a day to drive through the Subbética Córdobesa,<br />
a landscape of rolling hills covered in olive trees. The road<br />
leads south, through the town of Montilla, famed for its<br />
sherry-style wines, which A&K can arrange for guests to<br />
sample in a traditional winery.<br />
Of late, Simon has favoured a pit-stop at Zuheros, a typical<br />
village in the mountains, surmounted by a castle. “It’s a<br />
marvellous place for walking up into. Next to Zuheros runs the<br />
railway line once used to carry olive oil, which has been turned<br />
into a walking and cycling track.” We hire bikes in Zuheros and<br />
wheel 20 kilometres to Cabra, where our driver picks us up.<br />
Cabra’s medieval centre, churches, and palaces merit an<br />
exploratory stroll before we follow the pilgrims’ route to the<br />
Hermitage of the Virgen de la Sierra. From here the road leads<br />
to Priego de Córdoba, where A&K can organise a private visit<br />
to an olive oil mill, and a walk through orchards harbouring<br />
1,000-year-old trees.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 35
THE GLORIES OF GRANADA<br />
In Granada, Simon sidesteps the cathedral in favour of the<br />
exquisite Chapel of the Kings, created as the tomb of King<br />
Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in tribute to their reconquest of<br />
Moorish-occupied Spain.<br />
But this city is famous above all<br />
else for the Alhambra, the most intact<br />
Moorish palace in the world. “It is<br />
genuine Arabic architecture and the<br />
tile-work is superb,” enthuses Simon.<br />
“Built in the 14th and 15th centuries,<br />
its highlight is the Court of the Lions,<br />
with a fountain supported on six lions,<br />
surrounded by columns, patios, and<br />
reflecting pools.” Above the Alhambra<br />
is the Generalife, originally a hunting<br />
lodge and now the site of an early<br />
20th-century reconstruction of<br />
medieval Moorish gardens.<br />
Across the valley sits Albaicín, an<br />
Arab town preserved as a UNESCO<br />
Heritage Site. “This is a perfect<br />
Moorish town unchanged since 1492,<br />
its tiny streets and alleys running up the hill,” reveals Simon.<br />
“The streets smell like Marrakesh, with shops selling leather<br />
goods from Morocco, and shisha cafés.” From the streets, we<br />
take in sweeping views over the valley to the Alhambra, backed<br />
by the snow-capped Sierra Nevada.<br />
To the south is the Alpujarras, where we spend a day<br />
exploring mountains, valleys, and villages – including Lanjarón,<br />
famed for its mineral springs – which in the 16th century saw<br />
the last resistance of the Moorish inhabitants.<br />
UP INTO THE MOUNTAINS<br />
The road to Seville takes us through a succession of villages,<br />
among them Órgiva, where potteries still produce Alhambrastyle<br />
tiles. We head along the dramatic Poqueira canyon, first<br />
to Pampaneira, capital of the Sierra Nevada National Park, then<br />
IT TOOK THE<br />
MOORS SEVEN<br />
YEARS TO CONQUER<br />
SOUTHERN SPAIN.<br />
THEN IT TOOK THE<br />
CHRISTIANS SEVEN<br />
CENTURIES TO<br />
GET IT ALL BACK<br />
up to Trevélez, the highest town in Spain at nearly 1,400 metres,<br />
lauded for hams cured in the pure mountain air. At every turn<br />
spectacular views, bubbling streams, or remote farmsteads<br />
delight. “The English writer Gerald Brenan lived here in the<br />
1930s and he was a great lover of Spain,”<br />
says Simon, recommending the author’s<br />
book South From Granada as holiday<br />
reading. “You can still see the unspoiled<br />
countryside fabled by Brenan in his<br />
writing today.”<br />
A second day en route to Seville is<br />
spent in some of Andalusia’s enchanting<br />
white villages. We stop in Ronda, atop<br />
a cliff, and traverse the dramatic gorge<br />
of El Tajo. One side of the town is little<br />
changed since the time of the reconquest,<br />
while on the other stands the oldest<br />
bullring in Spain, dating from the<br />
18th century.<br />
Continuing through the ancient<br />
landscape of the Serranía de Cádiz<br />
mountains, we come to Ubrique, nestling<br />
among forests of cork oak and indigenous<br />
pinsapo pine. For centuries renowned for its fine leather goods,<br />
the town still supplies fashion’s most famous names.<br />
SEVILLE, A CITY OF TWO PEOPLES<br />
“The Moors arrived in 712, and by 720, they had conquered<br />
southern Spain. It took about seven years, and it took the<br />
Christians seven centuries to get it all back.” Simon’s history<br />
lesson underlines how large Arab heritage looms in Seville.<br />
We begin at the Giralda, originally a minaret, and now the bell<br />
tower of the cathedral. Commissioned in 1171, it is the twin of<br />
the minaret of the Koutoubia in Marrakesh.<br />
Another product of Seville’s dual heritage is the Alcázar, the<br />
oldest functioning royal palace in Europe, built for the kings of<br />
Castile after the reconquest. “But its origins go back to Moorish<br />
times, in combination with more recent Arab architecture<br />
36 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
SPAIN<br />
called Mudejar, created by Muslim craftsmen living in a then-<br />
Christian part of Spain,” says Simon.<br />
We wander through the Santa Cruz district, its squares and<br />
alleyways fragrant with orange blossom and jasmine, before<br />
stopping at the Maria Luisa Park, created at the end of the<br />
19th century and containing the Plaza de España, a massive<br />
neo-Moorish structure with fountains and soaring spires,<br />
used as a location for the 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia.<br />
Often overlooked are the University, originally the Royal<br />
Tobacco Factory, where, points out my guide, Bizet’s Carmen<br />
worked; and the Palacio de las Dueñas, the Seville residence of<br />
the Dukes of Alba, private entrance to which can be negotiated<br />
on request by A&K.<br />
Later we drive to Jerez de la Frontera, where, avoiding the<br />
tourist traps, we sample sherry at the family-run Bodegas<br />
Lustau, which dates back to 1896. Jerez is also famous for the<br />
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, run by the Domecq<br />
clan, with twice-weekly displays of dressage and country riding.<br />
We end with a visit to the Doñana National Park, one of the<br />
most impressive wetland wildlife reserves in Europe. Here A&K<br />
can line up a tour with a professional naturalist, exploring areas<br />
closed to the public. Simon suggests one last look at the green<br />
hills of Andalusia from the Sierra Norte, and I cannot resist.<br />
This is a land less travelled, and is all the better for it.<br />
CÓRDOBA<br />
SEVILLE<br />
ANDALUSIA<br />
GRANADA<br />
previous page: Puente Nuevo Bridge over the Tajo Gorge, Ronda<br />
from left to right: Medina Azahara, Córdoba; Trevélez in the Sierra Nevada;<br />
Doñana National Park; Plaza de España, Seville; the Alhambra, Granada<br />
DOÑANA<br />
NATIONAL<br />
PARK<br />
JEREZ<br />
SUBBÉTICA<br />
CORDOBESA<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information on how to arrange a guided tour of<br />
Andalusia, or to book your next Spanish adventure,<br />
contact our Europe travel specialists on 01242 547 703.<br />
SEVILLE<br />
RONDA<br />
ÓRGIVA<br />
SIERRA DE CÁDIZ<br />
MOUTAINS<br />
SIERRA NEVADA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 37
FIVE PLACES<br />
TO PLAY<br />
COWBOY<br />
GRAB YOUR STETSON AND MOUNT UP – IT’S TIME TO MAKE LIKE<br />
JOHN WAYNE AND HARRY THEM STEERS. A&K’S EXPERTS PICK THE<br />
MOST AUTHENTIC WILD WEST EXPERIENCES ON OFFER<br />
Cowboy fever has hit us hard – vast lands, big skies and outdoor<br />
pursuits never seemed so appealing, and when you can get<br />
off-grid without compromising on comfort, there’s every reason<br />
to indulge. It’s not just the US that champions the cowboy. You can canter<br />
through the Argentine pampas on horseback, watch high-speed barrel<br />
racing in Calgary, or embrace a rustic ranch in Chilean Patagonia offering<br />
one of the most authentic gaucho experiences out there. So, saddle up<br />
for the ride of your life: from southern Australia’s rust-red Outback to<br />
the sweeping desert plains of Arizona, here are five places where you can<br />
round ’em up and head ’em out.<br />
CÓRDOBA<br />
ARGENTINA<br />
Play out your cowboy fantasy on a working cattle farm in Argentina’s<br />
stunning Córdoba region. Overlooking the foothills of the Sierra Chicas,<br />
rippling pampas and infinite plains, Estancia Los Potreros oozes true<br />
estancia life.<br />
Dating back to the 16th century, this ranch-cum-organic farm has<br />
been run by the Anglo-Argentine Begg family for four generations. The<br />
farm was originally used to breed mules for the Bolivian mines. Today<br />
you’ll see herds of Aberdeen Angus cattle and over 100 Peruvian Paso<br />
horses as well as a number of sure-footed Criollo cattle.<br />
Slip on your poncho to go steaming through the pampas or track<br />
further afield to see rural homesteads and small communities. It’s also an<br />
excellent choice for a family holiday. Children can roam around (safely)<br />
in the 2,500-hectare working farm and swim in waterfall pools.<br />
Back at the ranch, it couldn’t get more authentic than working<br />
alongside the gauchos. Guests can try their hands at lassoing cattle and<br />
rounding up the herd.<br />
After days in the great outdoors, unwind in a hammock with a good<br />
book. In the land of superlative steak and wine, food is a real highlight.<br />
Gather around the wooden dining table for home-cooked empanadas,<br />
sizzling asados, and the finest Malbec.<br />
CALGARY<br />
ALBERTA, CANADA<br />
Every July, over a million visitors head to Calgary in Alberta to watch<br />
‘The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth’. It’s a strong statement, but one<br />
that’s entirely justified. The famed Calgary Stampede is where you can<br />
go full Billy the Kid or Butch Cassidy – chuckwagon racing, horse riding<br />
shows, one of the largest rodeos in the world, you name it. The event lasts<br />
for 10 days but even after one, you’ll come out having learned how to<br />
dress, act, and eat like a cowboy.<br />
From sheep-shearing competitions to steer wrestling, there’s something<br />
for everyone. You’ll need to reserve tickets to the most popular events<br />
such as barrel racing, where women gallop on horseback at full-speed<br />
around a series of barrels.<br />
From as early as 6am, visitors amass for all-you-can-eat pancakes<br />
loaded with bacon and maple syrup. Then there’s everything from<br />
the obligatory steak to indulgent mac and cheese throughout the day.<br />
Don’t forget to take home a legendary white cowboy hat, traditionally<br />
bequeathed on visiting dignitaries including the Duke and Duchess<br />
of Cambridge.<br />
SCOTTSDALE<br />
ARIZONA, US<br />
It’s not just about Stetsons and leather chaps. For a taste of real-deal<br />
cowboy life, head to Scottsdale, where you can sign up to cowboy<br />
college. Here you can channel the rough ’n’ tough cattle wranglers whose<br />
traditions continue on the ranches dotted throughout Arizona’s plains.<br />
38 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
acacia trees and you’ll no doubt see emu or a family of red kangaroo.<br />
Go for a bush walk Crocodile Dundee-style or join a field guide in the<br />
evening to track nocturnal creatures. Guests also have the opportunity to<br />
camp out under the shooting stars.<br />
Highlights include a private flight over the Wilpena Pound, where you<br />
can take in the mighty scope of its natural amphitheatre, and trips to the<br />
scenic Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges. Sip on sundowners on the top of<br />
a mountain ridge and return to your Outback lodge to dine on delicious<br />
bush tucker.<br />
PATAGONIA<br />
CHILE<br />
There’s no internet or a bar of phone signal here – just Patagonia’s<br />
reverberating wilderness. It takes a boat ride and an hour’s drive on a dirt<br />
road to get to Estancia Mercedes, a family ranch offering a true dose of<br />
gaucho life. Chilean poet Pablo Neruda said, “he who does not know the<br />
Chilean forests, does not know the planet”, and staying here among the<br />
mountains, fjords, sea, and pines, that quote could not resonate more.<br />
Expect authenticity – helping to lasso cattle and searching for herds<br />
in the mountains. You can also enjoy outdoor pastimes, galloping on<br />
horseback along ancestral trails or seeking out waterfalls for a quiet dip.<br />
Or hike through native forest to the Cerro Mirador lookout point where<br />
you can see ever-blue views of the Almirante Montt Gulf.<br />
The main highlight, though, is joining the gauchos for the day,<br />
rounding up cattle in the countryside. This is far from the tourist set up.<br />
Head out into the wild, eyes peeled for roaming herds, and drive them<br />
back to the corral with the help of steely dogs. After a hard day’s work,<br />
share stories around the fire with your new cowboy family while tucking<br />
into flamed steak and local wine.<br />
At one of these ranches, wild-west fans can learn the ropes under<br />
expert tutelage, riding Western style, practising horsemanship as well as<br />
rope and wrangling techniques. Swing a lasso like a pro and master the<br />
art of shoeing, then show off your skills at the gymkhana, jumping fences<br />
and cantering around barrels – guaranteed family fun. Highlights include<br />
cattle roundups and children’s camp specials that will have your Sundance<br />
Kids reading animal body language and driving mini horse-carts. You’ll<br />
also have the opportunity to ride out into the wide open spaces of the<br />
prairie and camp out if you’re feeling more adventurous.<br />
After days of working cattle, retreat to Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort<br />
& Spa. Guests come here to lap up this desert oasis with waterways,<br />
gondolas, and every bell and whistle – the flowering cacti and expansive<br />
swimming pools are the perfect antidote to ranch work. You can knead<br />
out any muscle ache in the spa.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your authentic cowboy experience,<br />
call our travel specialists on 01242 547 760.<br />
ARKABA<br />
SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA<br />
Australia’s Wild, Wild West can be explored from Arkaba, a former<br />
sheep-station-turned stylish homestead set among 24,000 hectares of<br />
private conservancy. On the edge of the eye-catching Flinders Ranges,<br />
the landscape is a natural playground for adventurers, or anyone looking<br />
to reconnect with nature. Drink in amber-coloured mountains and<br />
golden plains, so expansive you could spend days exploring the<br />
500 million-year-old red rock, fossils, and Aboriginal artwork.<br />
While you can’t herd livestock any more at Arkaba, the removal of<br />
sheep means that wildlife here gathers en masse, including the rare<br />
yellow-footed wallaby and elusive quoll. Walk out among the creeks and<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 39
LOOKING FOR A BONDING EXPERIENCE THAT WILL BRING YOU CLOSER TO YOUR YOUNG<br />
RELATIVES? TRY AN ADVENTURE IN COSTA RICA FOR FUN AND THRILLS ALL ROUND,<br />
RECOMMENDS JANE DUNFORD<br />
A<br />
light mist hangs in the early morning air as our raft<br />
navigates the curves of Rio Blanco. All around, tropical<br />
foliage cascades down towards the water – and with<br />
no one else in sight, we feel like true explorers on a jungle<br />
adventure through an undiscovered land.<br />
As we round a bend, our small group draws a collective<br />
breath as our guide points to the riverside – there on the bank,<br />
just a couple of metres away, a crocodile sunbathes, its mouth<br />
ajar, looking like something out of the Jurassic period.<br />
My niece Georgia snuggles a little closer to me, but she’s<br />
mesmerised – and not for the first time on this Costa Rica<br />
trip. We’re two days in and the animal kingdom has already<br />
impressed, with everything from spider monkey to giant iguana<br />
and colourful toucan. This tiny Central American country<br />
(about the size of Denmark at 121 kilometres by 290 kilometres)<br />
is home to an incredible five per cent of the world’s biodiversity<br />
– and with some of the most enlightened conservation policies<br />
on the planet, it certainly packs a punch when it comes to<br />
brilliant wildlife experiences.<br />
With its volcanic landscape, lush rainforests, and Caribbean<br />
and Pacific coastlines, it’s a natural playground, but the tourism<br />
infrastructure is impressive too – amazing lodges and hotels as<br />
well as decent roads. So for anyone travelling with children it<br />
strikes a perfect balance between comfort, safety, and adventure.<br />
I don’t have children of my own and wanted somewhere<br />
special to take my 12-year-old niece for an alternative family<br />
holiday, somewhere she would remember forever.<br />
Costa Ricans use the phrase “pura vida” (pure or simple life)<br />
as a greeting and our week was to be an immersion in nature, a<br />
bonding experience far from life back home.<br />
A direct British Airways flight from London to the capital San<br />
José, which launched mid-2016, makes travelling with children<br />
much easier – and we spend a day exploring the museums and<br />
Botanical Gardens.<br />
But the real fun starts when we hit the road north – driving<br />
through valleys of cloud forest, where waterfalls splash close to<br />
the roadside and signs warn of monkey and raccoon-like coati<br />
crossing. “It feels like we’re in The Jungle Book,” says Georgia,<br />
wide-eyed as the dramatic scenery unfolds.<br />
It’s a landscape that lends itself to countless activities – from<br />
zip-wiring to canopy bridge tours, from white-water rafting<br />
to scuba diving. We hike around soaring Arenal Volcano near<br />
La Fortuna – and soak afterwards in the soothing waters of a<br />
thermal spa under the stars. We venture north into the pristine<br />
forests near the border with Nicaragua, enjoying kayaking river<br />
trips and day and night walking safaris where we spot sloth and<br />
the cartoon-like tree frog with its bulging orange eyes and feet.<br />
Experiencing it all with a child in tow enhances the sense<br />
of wonder – and as auntie/niece bonding time it couldn’t have<br />
been better. A family holiday doesn’t have to mean one with<br />
your own children – whether it’s a niece, nephew, grandchild,<br />
or godchild who accompanies you, a Costa Rica holiday can’t<br />
fail to be magical.<br />
FAMILY-FAVOURITE ACTIVITIES<br />
THE RAINFOREST AND SOUTH PACIFIC<br />
Don’t miss a stay on the stunning Osa Peninsula, one of the<br />
wildest and most remote areas of the country and home to<br />
Corcovado National Park (recommended for children aged six<br />
and over). Lapa Rios eco-lodge, high on a hillside overlooking<br />
the ocean, makes a wonderful base, with beautiful bungalow<br />
accommodation. From here it’s easy to explore the coast and<br />
go dolphin watching (common, bottle-nosed, or spotted), as<br />
well as whale watching in September and November. Children<br />
can learn about rainforest conservation at Lapa Rios too, and<br />
plant a tree with their name on it. The 400-hectare protected<br />
national park has plenty of kid-friendly hiking trails, and the<br />
lodge will provide junior-sized hiking boots. For a true cultural<br />
immersion, families can visit Carbonera School on the edge of<br />
the park, meeting schoolchildren and perhaps enjoying a song<br />
or game of football. Energetic older children can learn to surf<br />
on many beaches like Playa Pan Dulce, or kayak through the<br />
picturesque mangroves.<br />
TREE-TOP TOURS AND NIGHT WALKS<br />
Around Arenal, an active volcano in north-western Costa<br />
Rica, and Monteverde, an area to the south known for its<br />
cloud forest, hanging bridges and trails, getting up close to<br />
the rainforest is easy. Special naturalist guides lead small groups<br />
on impressive Sky Walks through the canopy, 1,600 metres<br />
off the ground, with the chance to spot countless bird species,<br />
monkey and sloth, as well as learn about the ecosystem and its<br />
flourishing plant and animal life. It’s full immersion in the sights<br />
and sounds of the jungle – a winning experience for kids of<br />
all ages.<br />
For an alternative, heart-pounding journey, try zip-wiring<br />
through the treetops and watch the jungle flash by as you whizz<br />
along cables over canyons, flying between trees, with incredible<br />
views in all directions.<br />
After sunset, both Monteverde and Arenal are perfect places<br />
for ground-level night tours. It’s an active time for varied<br />
fauna, with diurnal animals seeking out places to sleep and the<br />
nocturnal creatures waking up.<br />
40 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
GEORGIA’S TAKE:<br />
YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY<br />
I loved Costa Rica, it was a great<br />
experience – particularly seeing<br />
animals up close in their natural<br />
environment. My favourite part<br />
was the river safari. It was very<br />
relaxed and peaceful, even if we saw<br />
crocodiles! I learnt a lot from our<br />
guide. Afterwards we ground cacao<br />
and made our own hot chocolate.<br />
RIVER-BASED FUN<br />
Criss-crossed by many rivers, Costa Rica has boating adventures<br />
for all ages. For older children the thrill of white-water rafting<br />
on fast-flowing Pacuare River, which runs to the Caribbean,<br />
might appeal (ages 14 and up). The river gorge, flanked by steep<br />
green walls, traverses virgin rainforest and is one of the best<br />
places in the world for white-water adventures with dozens of<br />
exciting rapids. There are plenty of options for more leisurely<br />
raft floats (suitable for ages six and up), perhaps Balsa River in<br />
Arenal or Penas Blancas near Nicaragua’s border.<br />
Corobici in the Guanacaste region in the north-west is a<br />
favourite too, the river bordered by tropical dry forest with<br />
mahogany and ceiba trees. Whichever you choose there will be<br />
wildlife aplenty from exotic birds to Jesus Christ lizard – named<br />
for its ability to run on water – as well as morpho butterflies and<br />
caiman.<br />
Larger boats are used for cruises in some areas, such as Caño<br />
Negro wildlife reserve – an important wetland area in the north<br />
and an incredible place for wildlife-spotting in comfort.<br />
WILDLIFE CLOSE-UPS<br />
Any animal-loving child will be in their element at the Asis<br />
Wildlife Refuge in Arenal. As well as getting up close to the<br />
wildlife and hearing their stories, there’s an option to volunteer.<br />
From learning about their diet and helping prepare food and<br />
feeding them, to helping clean or repair enclosures, it offers a<br />
unique insight into the animal world – with everything from<br />
rescued snake to monkey and toucan or hawk.<br />
The Tortuguero National Park on the Caribbean, famed for<br />
turtle that nest here, is another must-visit. Green sea turtle,<br />
leatherback and hawksbill can all be spotted here during the<br />
summer months (especially green turtle from July to October).<br />
Guides take visitors to the beaches at night to watch these<br />
mesmerising creatures crawling onto the sand to dig nests and<br />
lay their eggs – or if you’re lucky you might even see baby turtle<br />
hatching and scuttling to the sea. Memories that will last forever.<br />
SEA ADVENTURES<br />
While land-based activities won’t fail to impress, the ocean<br />
offers yet more brilliant family fun. From a catamaran or sailing<br />
boat, the lushness of the coast is even more striking – and there<br />
are pristine white coves and incredible coral reefs, rich with<br />
marine life, to explore beneath the waves. The Gulf of Nicoya,<br />
an inlet on the Pacific Ocean, is known for its enchanting<br />
landscape, and places like Tortuga Island with transparent<br />
waters that are home to giant schools of fish are snorkelling<br />
heaven. The Gulf of Papagayo, off the north-western coast,<br />
is another top spot with secluded beaches and great diving<br />
and snorkelling.<br />
The Pacific Coast is a surfing mecca with options for<br />
all levels and ages. Stay at Lapa Rios or the Four Seasons<br />
Papagayo for lessons with the pros – and wonderfully luxurious<br />
accommodation at the end of a day on the water.<br />
opposite: River-kayaking adventure<br />
above: Jane and her niece Georgia<br />
on a hike<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
A&K’s 12-night Active Costa Rica itinerary starts at £4,570 per<br />
person (based on two sharing, includes flights, private transfers,<br />
accommodation and selected excursions). For more information,<br />
call our Latin America travel specialists on 01242 547 701.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 41
EUROPE’S BEST<br />
BEACH BOLTHOLES<br />
Whether it’s the desire for peace or the chance to loll<br />
by the pool undisturbed, there are plenty of reasons<br />
to choose a holiday in a villa. You could be a family<br />
wanting quality time under one roof or a group of friends seeking<br />
the ultimate jaunt – either way, combining the villa with the perks<br />
of a hotel can really up the ante.<br />
From all-singing, all-dancing resorts with every facility under<br />
the sun to romantic whitewashed hotels with sought-after privacy,<br />
here is our European roundup of the fabulous beach villas that tick<br />
every box.<br />
Best for wellness<br />
THE MARBELLA CLUB, SPAIN<br />
The low-down<br />
The Marbella Club may have been around for 60-odd years, but<br />
its charm remains irresistible. Stay here for a seamless blend of<br />
restorative wellness in true Andalusian style. Talk to a life coach<br />
who can orchestrate a tailor-made healing menu. Nutritionists,<br />
naturopaths and personal trainers are also on hand to advise on<br />
various detox, fitness, and de-stress programmes.<br />
The villa<br />
To take wellness to the next level, bunk down in Villa El Cortijo<br />
(inset below), a two-floor home away from home. Rooms feel<br />
fresh with sophisticated neutral tones, four-poster beds, paisley<br />
throws, and deep bath tubs. Flop by the outdoor pool and enjoy<br />
dinners on the terrace. If you’re with the family, children can<br />
zip off and enjoy anything from gazpacho making lessons to<br />
flamenco classes.<br />
Best for families<br />
PINE CLIFFS RESORT, PORTUGAL<br />
The low-down<br />
Overlooking the sweeping gold sands and rust-red rock of the Algarve, Pine Cliffs Resort<br />
offers more than just a dose of sun, sand, and sea. A village-sized kids’ club complete with<br />
two playhouse pirate ships (inset above) offers guaranteed excitement. It caters for toddlers<br />
to teens and everyone in between. Sporting types can make use of the Annabel Croft Tennis<br />
Academy as well as golf for both parents and children.<br />
The villa<br />
If you’re a large family or even two families together, you can enjoy doing as little or as much<br />
as you want. The Retreat Villa (above) sleeps up to eight people, and comes complete with<br />
an outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, and open-plan living room. The hotel chef can whip up celebratory<br />
dinners or prepare outdoor barbecues so you don’t have to lift a finger.<br />
42 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
Most romantic<br />
THE GRACE SANTORINI, GREECE<br />
The low-down<br />
Sleek, chic, and deliciously romantic, the Grace Santorini (right) is<br />
an all-white escape carved into the clifftops. Framed by minimalist<br />
lines with a charcoal-beige colour palette, gazing over the sea-filled<br />
caldera will keep you hypnotised for days. When the evening sets<br />
in, take to the Champagne Lounge for legendary sunset views.<br />
The villa<br />
Hole up in this two-bedroom villa for undisputed privacy or a<br />
romantic escape. Arrive to a pre-stocked fridge of goodies and a<br />
seven-choice pillow menu. There’s a private swimming pool (inset<br />
right) with gorgeous sea views, and your very own spa complete<br />
with a hammam, Jacuzzi, and treatment room. Guests get first<br />
dibs at the restaurant or can request a private chef to cook fresh<br />
fish dinners. The on-call concierge can arrange island hopping by<br />
helicopter or boat trips on the sparkling Aegean Sea.<br />
WORDS: SACHA HARRISON<br />
All bells & whistles<br />
FORTE VILLAGE RESORT, SARDINIA<br />
The low-down<br />
There’s a reason why Forte Village Resort is repeatedly voted<br />
World’s Leading Resort. Aside from the sweeping views of the<br />
south-western Sardinian coastline, its five-star service stands<br />
unrivalled. Think dinner orchestrated by Gordon Ramsay followed<br />
by Andrea Bocelli for the evening’s entertainment. Stand out<br />
facilities include an award-winning kids’ club complete with<br />
Barbie VIP packages and an AcquaPark, as well as Versace and<br />
Alberta Ferretti boutiques and an on-site Mahiki nightclub.<br />
The villa<br />
Villa Aurora reveals a contemporary chic space with polished<br />
oak floors and alabaster walls. Sliding glass doors look out to<br />
1,000 square metres of immaculate lawns and tropical gardens.<br />
Lounge on the teak wood sundeck or under the shade of the<br />
bougainvillea-covered pergola. A private chef and butler remain<br />
at your disposal should you wish.<br />
Most glamorous<br />
BORGO EGNAZIA, ITALY<br />
The low-down<br />
Planted on Puglia’s Adriatic coast, Borgo Egnazia’s white tufo stone<br />
walls resemble a gleaming citadel (inset left). Lap up celeb-worthy<br />
service with local advisors on hand should you want to hire a bike,<br />
make a spa reservation, or learn how to make orecchiette. Il Borgo,<br />
the village-like square, offers buzzing restaurants and live music<br />
at night, while sun worshippers can make use of the two beach<br />
clubs nearby.<br />
The villa<br />
Villas here have names like Meravigliosa and Magnifica, befitting<br />
their grandeur. The best bit is that you don’t have to share your<br />
swoon-worthy pool with another soul, and you can enjoy citrus<br />
gardens and private courtyards in peace. For ultimate glamour,<br />
the owner’s seven-bedroom villa, Padronale (left), spreads over<br />
500 square metres with ancient olive trees. Its enviable rooftop<br />
terrace, lit by candles at night, is the perfect place for a nightcap.<br />
The villa also comes with an on-hand masseuse, butler, and<br />
local advisor.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
To book your next European beach and villa holiday, call our<br />
travel specialists on 01242 546 611 or 01242 547 705.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 43
GRAND<br />
DESIGNS<br />
ESCHEWING COOKIE-CUTTER ARCHITECTURE AND COULD-BE-ANYWHERE<br />
SURROUNDINGS, THE CLEVEREST HOTELS ARE PUSHING THE ENVELOPE WITH<br />
EVER MORE CREATIVE SPACES TO STAY. IANTHE BUTT LOOKS AT FIVE<br />
HEAD-TURNING PROPERTIES WHICH HAVE REINVENTED THE BAR<br />
THE END-OF-THE-EARTH ONE: FOGO ISLAND INN, NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA<br />
IN A NUTSHELL: A remote island retreat off the north-east<br />
coast of Newfoundland famed for its showstopping criss-cross<br />
architecture, created by Todd Saunders.<br />
THE DESIGN BUZZ: Fogo Island Inn is a real celebration of<br />
its rugged fishing village surroundings and traditional culture.<br />
The area’s original settlers weren’t allowed to build permanent<br />
structures, meaning they created wooden buildings which rested<br />
gently on the coastal landscape using wooden legs or ‘shores’.<br />
Similar columns can be seen supporting Saunders’ minimalist<br />
structure, which is clad in locally sourced black spruce and was<br />
constructed in collaboration with a host of resident craftspeople<br />
and artisans.<br />
THE VIBE: Natural history. Rough-hewn woods and earthy<br />
colour palettes provide a backdrop for stylish furniture, flickering<br />
fireplaces and snug nooks to hole up in. It’s the kind of place to<br />
let creativity run amok, write a novel, or paint the ever-shifting<br />
scenery; 29 rooms have spectacular views of the iceberg-studded<br />
North Atlantic Ocean. Plus there are hot tubs and a sauna on<br />
the roof, an art gallery, mini-cinema, and restaurant helmed by<br />
Jonathan Gushue, which focuses on hyper-local ingredients<br />
and, of course, fresh seafood.<br />
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Hike the island’s ancient trails; go<br />
fishing; try your hand at boat-building; and daytrip to Oliver’s<br />
Cove or the Little Fogo Islands. Also spy on more of Saunders’<br />
handiwork – he’s designed a number of artists’ studios on<br />
the island.<br />
44 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
THE OUT-THERE ONE:<br />
SHIPWRECK LODGE, NAMIBIA<br />
IN A NUTSHELL: In what looks like a surreal Dalí canvas, washed up in the striking<br />
Skeleton Coast desert are ten shipwreck-inspired timber cabins and a restaurantlounge,<br />
all with wood-burning fires and decked out with nautical curios.<br />
THE DESIGN BUZZ: The sustainable-whizzkids at Namibian studio Nina Maritz<br />
Architects were responsible for the bold rooms. Sustainably sourced timber panels<br />
were prefabricated using laser cutters in Windhoek, before travelling a bumpy 10<br />
hours overland and assembled on-site. As the lodge’s concession spans a 25-year<br />
period, a leave-no-trace ethos was adopted, should it need to be dismantled in<br />
future. Recycled plastic insulation and beechwood – rather than metal – nails were<br />
used in the build, and electricity is solar and wind-generated.<br />
THE VIBE: Otherwordly; each ‘boat’ is a snug haven, with slanted windows<br />
which let in panoramas of oryx skittering over sand dunes and crow cawing<br />
over the gunmetal-coloured waves of the distant Atlantic Ocean. The architecture<br />
might be inspired by the area’s notoriety as a treacherous spot for sailors,<br />
evidenced by the shipwrecks which line the shore, but interiors by Melanie van<br />
der Merwe – antique chests, marine-hued velvets, and battered books – create<br />
a cosseting atmosphere. She’s chosen to shine a spotlight on Namibian crafts:<br />
bespoke furniture made by Namibian carpenters at Wild Wood; glittering<br />
chandeliers and grape-like strings of beads created from upcycled old bottles<br />
by Kabo Craft; and placemats made by underprivileged women as part<br />
of a social enterprise in Windhoek.<br />
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Visit real-life shipwrecks; lunch surrounded<br />
by the unusual ‘wax-drip’ rock formations of the Clay Castles; search for<br />
desert-adapted elephant and giraffe; or hang out with millions of seal at<br />
Möwe Bay.<br />
THE ADVENTUROUS ONE:<br />
SHINTA MANI WILD, CAMBODIA<br />
IN A NUTSHELL: The latest opening from hotel hitmaker<br />
Bill Bensley, 15 custom-designed tents nestled in the southern<br />
Cambodian wilderness, in a valley between Phnum Bokor and<br />
Kirirom National Parks.<br />
THE DESIGN BUZZ: Arrival is unconventional – after a road<br />
or helicopter trip, guests can whizz along a 380-metre zip-line<br />
through the treetops, into the landing bar – setting the tone for<br />
a fun stay. “Too many hospitality projects take themselves too<br />
seriously,” says Bensley, “and what is the point of that? I want<br />
folks to laugh, learn, and remember where they have been.”<br />
(Jeep transfers are available for those who don’t fancy an Indiana<br />
Jones-style entrance.) Plush tents, constructed in ecofriendly<br />
materials, are raised from the forest floor to help minimise<br />
impact, and perch over rushing rivers and waterfalls –<br />
meaning not only astonishing views, but natural cooling too.<br />
THE VIBE: Wild at heart, with heart. While Bensley has said<br />
interiors are a take on what a Cambodian safari might have<br />
looked like if accompanied by Jackie O – think sofas adorned with<br />
bright wildlife-pattern prints, deep iron bathtubs, and artefacts<br />
sourced from flea markets and antiques fairs – and there’s a luxe<br />
spa and forest-to-table cuisine. The project took shape as a way to<br />
help protect the surrounding river valley from poaching, mining,<br />
and logging, and supports local community projects.<br />
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Take a boat along winding waterways;<br />
join Wildlife Alliance Rangers checking camera traps; and go<br />
foraging with the chef.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 45
THE ARTY ADAPTIVE REUSE ONE:<br />
THE SILO, CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA<br />
IN A NUTSHELL: A 1920s grain silo on the V&A Waterfront<br />
reimagined as a luxe hotel atop a groundbreaking art museum,<br />
masterminded by hoteliers The Royal Portfolio and Thomas<br />
Heatherwick Studios.<br />
THE DESIGN BUZZ: A real skyline gamechanger, at first glance<br />
what’s most striking are the rows of statement pillowed glass<br />
windows which bulge, bubble wrap-like, popping out a metre past<br />
the historic building’s façade. These upper floors, in the former<br />
grain elevator portion, house the hotel’s 28 rooms. What’s inside is<br />
just as impressive, a soaring atrium with the central silos hollowed<br />
out in mesmerising grain shapes and the Zeitz Museum of<br />
Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA), the silo structures creating<br />
natural divisions for gallery space in the building’s lower levels.<br />
THE VIBE: Bejewelled industrial. Liz Biden wanted to “balance<br />
the stark style of the architecture with aspects of classic glamour”.<br />
This translates to scores of Egyptian crystal chandeliers, intricate<br />
fabrics by Ardmore, velvet sofas in playful, opulent tones set<br />
against concrete walls hung with contemporary art, plus historical<br />
touches – the original grain hoppers sit in the lobby. Private<br />
basement gallery the Vault holds biannual exhibitions, while<br />
just downstairs at MOCAA (the first-ever museum dedicated to<br />
modern African art) there are colourful images which explore<br />
counter narratives by Athi-Patra Ruga (who’s just had his first<br />
solo show at London’s Somerset House), and dream-like abstract<br />
nudes by Banele Khoza.<br />
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Scramble up Table Mountain; enjoy<br />
killer mountain and ocean views from the rooftop pool; have<br />
a romantic dinner at the Granary Café; or visit the adorable<br />
penguin at Boulders Beach.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information on the best – and most interesting – hotels<br />
in the world, and how to combine them with an A&K holiday,<br />
call our travel specialists on 01242 547 760.<br />
46 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
THE IMMERSED-IN-NATURE ONE: ARCTIC TREE HOUSE HOTEL, FINLAND<br />
IN A NUTSHELL: Eye-catching cube-shaped cabins on stilts<br />
by Studio Puisto Architects Ltd, in the heart of a pine forest<br />
in Rovaniemi.<br />
DESIGN BUZZ: The 32 woodland cabins are a riff on käpylehmä,<br />
a traditional Finnish toy – a pine cone cow – often created by<br />
children using pine cones and sticks for legs. The shingle-clad<br />
timber structures appear frozen atop Syväsen hill, between<br />
towering trees and rugged boulders, with the north-facing wall of<br />
each constructed completely of glass to allow the snaking glow of<br />
the Northern Lights to take centre stage.<br />
THE VIBE: Cosy arctic mysticism. Decor was chosen to help<br />
create a “safe, nest-like space”, with a riot of tactile throws<br />
and furry cushions, caramel woods, and chrome touches. At<br />
snowflake-shaped restaurant Rakas, chef Jonathan Guppy serves<br />
up smart, seasonal Lappish cuisine with a twist, with dishes such<br />
as wild reindeer in lingonberry sauce, potatoes with pine-infused<br />
butter, and cloudberry baked Alaska.<br />
WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Come face to face with Santa Claus<br />
at subterranean festive-themed Santa Park, just next door;<br />
take a Finnish sauna in the Arctic Forest Spa; or travel across<br />
the snow-covered landscape pulled by a team of huskies.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 47
JORDAN’S<br />
SOUTHERN STAR<br />
NEW FLIGHTS TO AQABA MAKE IT EASY TO COMBINE JORDAN’S ANCIENT SITES, DIVE-WORTHY<br />
COASTLINE AND DRAMATIC DESERT. IAN BELCHER EXPLORES THE POSSIBILITIES<br />
It’s a gloriously unexpected moment. I’m riding a camel<br />
alongside Bader, my Bedouin guide, under a dark dawn sky<br />
still frescoed with a wafer-thin moon and sprinkle of stars.<br />
As we pad across the cold sand, the colour returns to the vast<br />
grey landscape – a sudden stroke of deep ochre paint.<br />
Fittingly, given that the palette evolves into a rich burnt<br />
orange with the passage of the sun, I’m in one corner of Jordan’s<br />
Golden Triangle: an intoxicating mix of tropical ocean, ancient<br />
architecture and widescreen, bone-dry wilderness.<br />
From this winter, you can see Bader, his camel and the<br />
seductive trinity of attractions far more easily thanks to the<br />
launch of economy flights into the southern city of Aqaba. The<br />
relaxed Red Sea port with its relentless<br />
sunshine, beaches and coastal mountains<br />
makes a fabulously convenient base for<br />
day-trips – or longer excursions – to<br />
the Rose City of Petra and desert of<br />
Wadi Rum.<br />
There’s no need to hurry. I enjoy a<br />
gentle couple of days among Aqaba’s<br />
colourful locals, including blue and white<br />
striped surgeon fish, purple tangs and<br />
wafer-thin crown butterfly fish with vivid<br />
scarlet daubs across their flanks.<br />
Jordan’s 27 kilometres of coastline may be compact, but<br />
snorkelling in the Aqaba Marine Park (a very acceptable 20˚C<br />
in mid-winter) reveals several exotic denizens from the Red<br />
Sea’s 2,148 species of fish. I hover alongside coffee and cream<br />
lionfish with ethereally beautiful yet venomous spinal spikes,<br />
before swimming through shimmering blizzards of silversides,<br />
an experience straight out of Blue Planet.<br />
Their home isn’t too bad either. The Yamanieh Reef, easily<br />
accessible from the Berenice Beach Club, has over 200 flavours<br />
of coral. I drift over waving cream sponges, delicate sea fans, and<br />
‘I COULDN’T<br />
LIVE ANYWHERE ELSE,’<br />
WHISPERS MAHMOUD.<br />
‘THE DESERT IS<br />
MY HEART’<br />
a neon green brain that’s both gorgeous and slightly alarming.<br />
“Some corals have lived here for thousands of years,” boasts<br />
Mohamed Abd El-latif Ali, the dive centre manager. “They’re<br />
older than Jordan’s famous archaeology.”<br />
They may well be, but Petra, the country’s most celebrated<br />
historical site, is equally compelling – even if its beauty is<br />
man-made. The UNESCO-listed Nabatean city with over 2,000<br />
caves, tombs and temples cut into soft sandstone cliffs a couple<br />
of millennia ago, is popular. Hugely popular. With local hotels<br />
often booked up far in advance, Aqaba, less than two hours’<br />
drive away, offers a viable alternative for anyone hoping to visit<br />
without months of pre-planning.<br />
Indeed the journey, cutting through<br />
a dramatic and brutal landscape of<br />
volcanic peaks, adds to the excitement.<br />
The final descent into the folds of<br />
the Shara mountains, followed by a<br />
kilometre-long walk through the Siq,<br />
the vertiginous cleft in the rocks, further<br />
whets the appetite.<br />
Even though I’ve seen Petra’s Treasury<br />
via everything from Tintin’s adventures<br />
to Indiana Jones’s, it’s still a showstopper.<br />
The perfectly preserved façade<br />
underlines how the Nabatean traders, after accumulating wealth<br />
and travel miles, returned home to recreate striking foreign<br />
designs from Greek columns and capitals to Egyptian obelisks.<br />
To bring the almost overwhelming volume of architecture<br />
to life, I have an expert A&K guide. Khaled Twaissi, who has<br />
spent 39 years unravelling Petra’s secrets, shows me the grand<br />
sights – the Monastery, Royal Tombs, Street of Façades – but<br />
also the tiny but telling features: a circumcised fertility symbol<br />
(at first glance I thought it was a spaceship), Greek graffiti and<br />
the ceramic-lined royal water supply – ordinary mortals made<br />
48 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
do with a sandstone canal. The devil is in the detail. Or in the<br />
desert. My final stop, Wadi Rum, is relentlessly spectacular, and<br />
relentlessly harsh.<br />
I experience it in the safe hands of Mahmoud Zawaideh.<br />
The Bedouin guide, raised among the sun-burnished cliffs<br />
and multi-hued dunes with a sheikh for a grandfather, uses a<br />
contemporary ship of the desert: a 4x4 Toyota Hilux.<br />
We roam across interplanetary landscapes – inspiration for<br />
film directors from David Lean and Ridley Scott to Michael Bay<br />
– study ancient petroglyphs, and the towering slash of a valley<br />
where TE Lawrence is said to have spent shady days among the<br />
forces of the Arab Revolt.<br />
The tour ends with tea beneath the pillowy dusk outline of<br />
the Rum mountains. “I couldn’t live anywhere else,” whispers<br />
Mahmoud. “The desert is my heart.”<br />
Although only 45 minutes from Aqaba, I’d strongly<br />
recommend staying in one of Wadi Rum’s camps. Not just for<br />
the lamb, roasted in a traditional zarb earth oven, or for the<br />
billion-tog duvet of stars, but for that sunrise camel ride. Yes, my<br />
mount might have interrupted the immense poetic silence with<br />
a mighty burp. Yes, I may have been serenaded by the timeless<br />
ring of Bader’s mobile phone. But that magnificently abrupt<br />
brushstroke of wilderness paint, followed by the eye-popping<br />
speed of the sunrise – from sliver to burning orb in 60 seconds –<br />
will remain with me to the end of my days.<br />
from top: Wadi Rum; Black Rock Jetty, underwater in Aqaba; Dead Sea;<br />
Petra’s Treasury; Aqaba Gulf at night<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your trip to Aqaba and Jordan,<br />
contact our Middle East travel specialists on 01242 547 703.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 49
I WANT TO SEE A PUMA SO BADLY THAT<br />
I THINK I MUST BE IMAGINING THINGS<br />
WHEN SUDDENLY, I CATCH A GLIMPSE OF<br />
A SANDY-COLOURED ANIMAL<br />
50 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
PATAGONIA<br />
PURSUITS<br />
LEAVING BEHIND THE BUZZING STREETS OF<br />
SANTIAGO, JAN MASTERS VENTURES INTO THE<br />
WILDS OF PATAGONIA IN SEARCH OF ELUSIVE BIG<br />
CATS, AND FINDS A SALVE FOR THE SOUL AMID<br />
EMPTY LANDSCAPES AND JAGGED MOUNTAINS<br />
When I try to pinpoint Patagonia on a giant globe, I’m<br />
reminded just how far south it is, because I have to<br />
lie on the floor to locate it. It really is a case of next<br />
stop Antarctica. An untamed wilderness, geographically isolated<br />
by the Andes, ice fields and oceans, it lies at the southern end of<br />
Chile, extending into Argentina to the east. For me, it has always<br />
conjured a sense of romantic drama. Of electric blue glaciers and<br />
gauchos galloping across windswept grasslands.<br />
Of condors wheeling over jagged peaks, and<br />
empty roads that pursue endless horizons. So<br />
when it comes to taking a holiday that offers a<br />
truly meaningful break from urban stress, it is to<br />
Patagonia I decide to head – or more specifically,<br />
the Torres del Paine National Park, which has<br />
been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1978.<br />
Chile has recently created five new national<br />
parks, preserving vast tracts of Patagonia and<br />
representing the culmination of 25 years of work<br />
by the late US philanthropist Doug Tompkins,<br />
founder of The North Face and Esprit brands,<br />
and his wife, Kristine McDivitt Tompkins, CEO<br />
of Tompkins Conservation. Her recent handover<br />
of over 400,000 hectares is considered to be the<br />
largest donation of private land to a government.<br />
With the Chilean president pledging another<br />
three and a half million hectares, the country is<br />
cementing its place as one of the global leaders<br />
in conservation. And as the country has recently<br />
marked 200 years of independence, it’s attracting<br />
tourist attention like never before.<br />
Any trip from London to Chilean Patagonia<br />
is likely to be bookended with a stopover in the<br />
increasingly cosmopolitan capital of Santiago, so<br />
I spend a couple of days exploring. Each barrio<br />
(district) has its own character and there are<br />
museums, markets, buzzing bars, restaurants and<br />
grand buildings aplenty, all lying in a valley with<br />
the Andes as a towering backdrop.<br />
Hotel Lastarria is my base, a boutique hotel in<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 51
the bohemian neighbourhood of Lastarria with easy access<br />
to the city’s attractions. Built in 1927, its air of classical elegance<br />
is offset with contemporary interiors. And with only 14 rooms,<br />
this refurbished mansion still feels homely. The Deli Lounge<br />
serves breakfast, tasty plates and snacks, and delicious wines,<br />
and overlooks a quaint courtyard with a small pool. A shout out<br />
here to the staff, who go the extra mile to make sure you’re<br />
well looked after.<br />
One of my favourite excursions is a tour of street art with a<br />
genuine Chilean artist. Forget random graffiti, the San Miguel<br />
barrio is home to the Museo a Cielo Abierto (the Open Air<br />
Museum) where artists are selected to create murals that not only<br />
enhance the properties but help with the ongoing rejuvenation<br />
of the area. Another district well worth checking out is Barrio<br />
Yungay, which is awash with historic and eclectically painted<br />
houses and shops.<br />
For a day out of the city, the impressive Santa Rita Winery,<br />
only a 45-minute drive away, has plenty to offer beyond its<br />
award-winning wines. The old estate house is now the grand<br />
Casa Real Hotel and you can take a carriage ride around its<br />
manicured gardens. There’s also an Andean Museum and the<br />
Dona Paula Restaurant on site, and no trip is complete without<br />
a wine tasting in the atmospheric cellars.<br />
After my short stay, the call of the wild can no longer be<br />
silenced, so I board my plane south to Punta Arenas, a threeand-a-half-hour<br />
flight that skims the snaking Andes. There<br />
follows another four and a half hours by vehicle to my ultimate<br />
destination in the heart of the Torres del Paine, Explora Patagonia.<br />
Here, it’s all about luxury served up in the heart of the<br />
wilderness, and the lodge offers everything from great food and<br />
wines to an indoor pool and open-air Jacuzzis. But it’s the setting<br />
that’s a revelation. Lying on Lake Pehoé, picture windows frame<br />
the Salto Chico waterfall and the Paine Massif ’s soaring torres<br />
– three granite towers that give the park its name. Sustainably<br />
managed, this is a hotel that minimises your eco footprint while<br />
maximising the ‘ahhh’ factor after a long day’s exploring.<br />
Let the adventures commence. I’m here in winter, which runs<br />
from June to early September. <strong>Summer</strong> is predictably more<br />
popular but all seasons have their charm – and changeable<br />
weather. There’s a saying in Patagonia: “If you don’t like the<br />
weather, just wait ten minutes.” I wrap up well for my first<br />
morning trek around Nordenskjold Lake to see the Cuernos del<br />
Paine, jagged columns of rock resembling horns. The water is so<br />
glassy, it reflects the surrounding spectacular peaks perfectly. All<br />
around are guanaco, an animal so synonymous with Patagonia, it’s<br />
become the poster-child of the region. Related to the camel, it has<br />
a long fluffy neck and lashes straight out of a mascara ad.<br />
The sheer number of guanaco tells us one thing. There are no<br />
puma in the vicinity. Good news for the guanaco, less so for me,<br />
because part of my mission is to spot these big cats that venture<br />
further down the mountains in winter. I am told by the guides<br />
that we could be lucky and see one anywhere on our travels, and<br />
that in said moment, we should remain calm, keep a respectful<br />
distance and listen to our guides for safe instruction. Fingers<br />
crossed, then.<br />
Explora offers more than 40 daily excursion options that meet<br />
differing fitness and experience levels, with some following parts<br />
of the W circuit, a renowned trail that requires at least five days<br />
of trekking if you were to go the whole 80 kilometres. Horse<br />
riding with the gauchos is also a must, no matter your level of<br />
experience. Once kitted out with a must-wear helmet, you can<br />
take a gentle amble among skipping hare and strutting flamingo<br />
or go flat out over the pampas.<br />
A great hike is to Lago Grey. Crossing the hanging bridge<br />
over the Pingo River and traversing a lenga forest, we reach the<br />
shores of the Lake Grey, where too-blue-to-be-true icebergs break<br />
off from the Grey Glacier in the distance. Another is around<br />
Lake Sarmiento, a picturesque panorama of tranquillity. But as<br />
inspiring as all this is, I still want to see a puma, and so far, nada.<br />
The guides tell me a great chance to see one is on the Aonikenk<br />
trek in the eastern part of the park, so I optimistically walk<br />
through early morning snow. Halfway through the hike, we stop<br />
to view a cave with 4,000-year-old paintings left by the indigenous<br />
Aonikenk people. Fascinating, but puma count: zero.<br />
52 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
PATAGONIA<br />
Back in the van, returning to Explora, I scour the mountains<br />
one last time. I want to see a puma so badly that I think I must<br />
be imagining things when suddenly, I catch a glimpse of a<br />
sandy-coloured animal way up high. A flash and he’s gone.<br />
We stop the van and stay put in it to wait. And wait. Then he<br />
comes back into view, zig-zagging down the rock face. Muscular<br />
and powerful, he picks his way over rocks and pads across the<br />
road ahead, looking back at us with piercing eyes. I return to the<br />
hotel, suitably jubilant. Now if that doesn’t call for a pisco sour<br />
in Explora’s cool bar, I don’t know what does.<br />
previous page: A puma stalks the mountainside; riding with gauchos<br />
above left: Guanaco against the mountains<br />
clockwise from above: The bar at Explora Patagonia; murals in Santiago;<br />
Lake Pehoé; Salto Chico waterfall; snowy pampas<br />
photography: Jan Masters<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information on holidays to Patagonia, or to book your<br />
next tailor-made Chilean adventure, call our Latin America<br />
travel specialists on 01242 547 701.<br />
WANT TO REALLY GET TO KNOW<br />
SANTIAGO’S LOCALS?<br />
A&K has created an experience that puts you at the heart of Chilean<br />
life in a single evening. Dining with locals, usually at a private home,<br />
you could be in the company of anyone from a local artist to a dynamic<br />
young business couple.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 53
Party OF ONE<br />
THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE SOLO TRAVEL: JOURNEYING ON YOUR OWN LEAVES YOU OPEN TO<br />
NEW EXPERIENCES AND MAKES IT EASIER TO TUNE INTO YOUR SURROUNDINGS. AND JAPAN IS<br />
THE IDEAL PLACE TO FLY SOLO, SAYS SACHA HARRISON<br />
The idea of travelling solo was always so appealing; the<br />
pure freedom, the new connections, my very own<br />
meaningful experiences. When it came to booking, I<br />
would often find myself on the verge, but would talk myself out<br />
of it at the last minute. Questions tumbled in; what if I get lonely<br />
or bored? Who would I talk to at dinner? Is this an odd thing to<br />
do? I also questioned my safety – a very real concern, especially<br />
for a lone female traveller.<br />
That being said, one day I just woke up and booked a trip. The<br />
first step to the most incredible journey on which I have ever<br />
been – it was better than the most luxurious hotel and the most<br />
exotic destination I had ever experienced. What made the trip<br />
so special was the ability to design my own day, to develop new<br />
relationships, and to make unforgettable memories that were<br />
mine alone. It was hugely liberating and life changing in many<br />
ways. Now I plan to travel solo every year. Next on my hit list: the<br />
Land of the Rising Sun.<br />
Japan is the perfect place for solo travel as there is so much<br />
to see and do. From Tokyo’s neon skyline to Kyoto’s old-world<br />
encounters, the country is a feast for the senses. Not to mention<br />
the endless ramen and saké bars! Here are five reasons to travel<br />
to Japan on a solo adventure.<br />
FULL-THROTTLE TOKYO<br />
Move over New York, this city really never sleeps, with its<br />
bright neon lights, buzzing atmosphere, countless soba bars<br />
and shopping meccas. If you want to make the most of Japan’s<br />
capital city, dive into the deep end of its head-spinning culture.<br />
Take a tour of Harajuku’s edgy youth-culture and hip cafés, or<br />
visit Japan’s important Shinto shrines. You can even undergo<br />
Samurai training, or learn how to make sushi at the world’s<br />
largest fish market.<br />
TRAINSPOTTING<br />
We can’t list an iconic itinerary in Japan without talking about<br />
the bullet train. The fastest locomotive in the world, you can<br />
travel at 480 kilometres per hour from Tokyo to Nagoya in just<br />
over an hour and a half – a hi-tech work of art. Don’t miss one of<br />
the best views of Mount Fuji on the right-hand side. And while<br />
the bullet train zips you out of the capital, the slower-paced train<br />
to Takayama affords panoramic rural views of thick bamboo,<br />
mist-swathed forests, and traditional villages.<br />
SEE SHIRAKAWA-GO’S TRADITIONAL<br />
GASSHO-ZUKURI HOUSES<br />
Far from the bright lights of Tokyo, there’s a quiet magic to<br />
behold in Japan’s rural regions. Shirakawa-go holds such charm,<br />
untouched by modernity. Wander around the village, especially<br />
fairytale-like in the snow, and see its clusters of thatched<br />
gassho-zukuri houses, said to resemble the hands of Buddhist<br />
monks. Stop to talk to farmers who raise silkworms throughout<br />
the year, or take a walk around the lantern-lit rice paddies.<br />
ANCIENT KYOTO AS YOU PLEASE<br />
Once the country’s Imperial capital, the city evokes old-world<br />
Japan with its kimono-wearing geishas, Zen temples, and the<br />
feudal-era Nijo Castle with its original moats and stone walls.<br />
You can easily tailor your day, perhaps learning how to make<br />
traditional sweets in the 17th-century Nishiki market, or taking a<br />
rickshaw ride around the lofty Sagano bamboo forest and buying<br />
bamboo baskets from the local craft workshops. With so much to<br />
do, explore the city as you please.<br />
HIROSHIMA WITH AN EXPERT<br />
Take the bullet train to Hiroshima, the site where the first atomic<br />
bomb was droppedon 6 August 1945. Today you can still see<br />
the ruins where this devastating attack took place. A specialist<br />
guide is crucial in order to unravel the city’s poignant past with<br />
true insight. Walk around the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park,<br />
a legacy of the attack, detailing its history with pictures and<br />
memorabilia. You can then take the ferry to Miyajima (‘Shrine<br />
Island’), to see its floating red Torii Gate shrine.<br />
SO HOW CAN YOU MAKE THE<br />
MOST OF IT?<br />
Take the pressure off with an escorted tour, offering experiences<br />
that you may not be able to organise on your own. The time you<br />
would usually spend thinking about getting from A to B could be<br />
better used learning how to swing a Samurai sword or visiting a<br />
fantastical Buddhist temple. And with no single supplements on the<br />
first four places of our escorted Immersive Journeys, there’s never<br />
been a better time to go it alone.<br />
clockwise from top: Eating out in Tokyo; a typical gassho-zukuri house;<br />
Torii Gate at Hakone shrine at Lake Ashi, near Hiroshima<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
A&K’s Journey through Japan: From Tokyo to Kyoto starts<br />
at £6,740 (excludes flights). The first four solo places booked<br />
won’t pay any single supplement. For more information,<br />
call our escorted tours specialists on 01242 547 892.<br />
54 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 55
NIMAL<br />
TTRACTION<br />
A VETERAN OF AFRICAN SAFARIS, NICK CURTIS IS STILL BLOWN AWAY BY THE<br />
SHEER VARIETY AND ABUNDANCE OF THE WILDLIFE IN TANZANIA<br />
There’s a theory that the most beautiful word in any<br />
language is the one for butterfly. And a delightful<br />
by-product of a stirring, four-day safari in the new<br />
Sanctuary Kichakani Serengeti Camp in Tanzania is that<br />
I learned that the Swahili for butterfly is kipepeo.<br />
After he’d told us that, we charged our splendid A&K guide<br />
Filbert Jacob with teaching us the Swahili word for all the<br />
animals we saw. Not just thousands of nyumbu (wildebeest)<br />
and pundamilia (zebra) making their ponderous, thunderous<br />
migration across the vast Serengeti, but also kiboko (hippo),<br />
several aggressive tembo (elephant, spoiling for a fight with each<br />
other rather than us, thank goodness), and amazingly, six simba<br />
wa kike (lionesses) drowsing in a tree.<br />
56 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
TANZANIA<br />
We parked breathtakingly close and watched them for a<br />
good half hour from Filbert’s spanking new A&K Landcruiser.<br />
Having previously been on safari in Zambia and Botswana, it<br />
was delicious to experience once more the deep peace one gets<br />
communing with the landscape of Africa and its inhabitants.<br />
Although those previous trips had not prepared me for the varied<br />
landscape – volcanic craters and boulders, hills and plains, jungle<br />
and grassland – or the sheer vastness of the Serengeti. The name<br />
means ‘endless’ in Swahili.<br />
Sanctuary Kichakani is a mobile camp, which, mistakenly, calls<br />
to mind a rough and ready caravanserai of vehicles and collection<br />
of makeshift shelters, hastily erected one day and collapsed the<br />
next, always on the move. Rather, the collection of 10 elegant<br />
guest tents, the huge one containing the restaurant and lounge,<br />
staff accommodation, kitchen, laundry, generator, and so on,<br />
rotate between three locations in the Serengeti, where everything<br />
is fully plumbed in on arrival (there’s running water to taps and<br />
toilets, though the ‘bucket showers’ in each tent involve a steward<br />
filling up a cistern). It takes three weeks to set up the camp in each<br />
location, and a week to dismantle it.<br />
Sanctuary Kichakani follows the course of the east to west<br />
Great Migration of herbivores looking for food, and predators<br />
looking for, well, herbivores. The location we stayed at was in<br />
the elbow of a sunken river, where an unseen hippo burped out<br />
his “haw-haw-haw” chortle during the garish sunset. We were<br />
pretty impressed by that, the day we arrived. But late the following<br />
afternoon, Filbert took us to a pond where 30, 40, maybe 50<br />
hippo, ranging from tiny calves to humungous bulls, butted and<br />
bellowed and splashed at one another, bathed in the golden light<br />
of the low sun. To complete the experience, he handed us each a<br />
chilled bottle of local Kilimanjaro beer.<br />
I wasn’t prepared for the sheer number of animals we’d<br />
encounter. In Botswana, we’d gone for hours without seeing<br />
anything other than balletic red lechwe and colourful songbirds<br />
– and don’t get me wrong, they were beautiful – and so our first<br />
glimpse of a small lion pride was extraordinary, and the time a<br />
leopardess and her almost-adult cub shadowed our vehicle was<br />
heart-stopping. In Zambia, rangers brought us up close to a white<br />
rhino, which was pretty amazing.<br />
In Tanzania we tracked a distant dot that Filbert said was<br />
a rhino, but otherwise we had an embarrassment of riches.<br />
Countless zebra and wildebeest, travelling in an earnest,<br />
purposeful line, or lowing and whinnying together as they<br />
congregated in a flat, empty plain, too many of them to count.<br />
There were huge groups of giraffe and water buffalo. I’d never seen<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 57
a Thomson’s gazelle or a hartebeest before, and here there were<br />
scores of them.<br />
We encountered several rambunctious bands of elephant,<br />
and truculent herds of water buffalo. Shortly after we saw those<br />
lionesses, we chanced upon three huge, bushy-maned adult<br />
males sunning themselves on a volcanic rock. The small creatures<br />
were no less beguiling. Here were jewelled lizards and birds,<br />
and families of mongoose scampering out of our path. The only<br />
downers on the wildlife front were the tsetse flies, which<br />
seemed oblivious to insect spray, and able to bite through several<br />
layers of clothing.<br />
The quality of a safari is down to the guide, and Filbert, a burly<br />
former accountant and father to a young daughter, was terrific:<br />
funny, knowledgeable, easy-going, capable. When we sprung a<br />
low puncture on the big Landcruiser, he changed it without a<br />
blink, as we watched flamingo skimming a lagoon. We set out at<br />
dawn most days, returning to camp for lunch on some occasions,<br />
taking picnics on others. An alfresco lunch of cold chicken by<br />
Gong Rock – a shard of lava that rings when struck with a stone<br />
– atop a huge boulder, near to ancient Maasai paintings, and with<br />
the scenery stretching for miles, will stay in my memory forever.<br />
Meals back at camp were informal but the fare surprisingly<br />
sophisticated – a chilled soup to start, followed by a sumptuous<br />
buffet of salads, meatballs, chicken, and pork, and on one<br />
occasion a barbecue of unfathomably tender Tanzanian beef<br />
around the campfire. The bar was well stocked, not only with local<br />
wine and beer and international spirits, but with books, games,<br />
and sofas to lounge on. Bread and pastries at breakfast were<br />
excellent, and the fruit out of this world.<br />
On our first night, we were alone in camp, with the entire staff<br />
of 22, at our disposal, which was a little overwhelming. And to be<br />
honest, I never quite got used to the constant attention of our tent<br />
steward, Rama, who walked us back to our tent at night, woke us<br />
with fresh coffee and handmade biscuits each morning, and filled<br />
up our bucket shower when we asked.<br />
The tents themselves are a modern take on classic safari styling,<br />
with lots of canvas, zips, and straps, and a veranda at the front for<br />
a gin and tonic at sundown. There was also an outdoor washstand,<br />
and I took great pleasure in shaving in the dying sunlight before<br />
dinner. On our last day, as we waited to board the puddlejumping<br />
plane for a series of short hops back to Arusha airport,<br />
Filbert expressed regret that he hadn’t been able to find a duma<br />
– a cheetah – the only animal I’d expressed a great desire to see. It<br />
doesn’t matter. It gives us an excuse to go back.<br />
58 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
TANZANIA<br />
SOUTH-SIDE STORY<br />
Safari-lovers go to Tanzania to see game, take a walk on<br />
the wild side, and get back to nature. Tanzania’s north is<br />
well known to tourists thanks to the Great Migration and<br />
the millions of wildebeest that cyclically move around the<br />
Serengeti and into Kenya’s Masai Mara. The upper part of<br />
the country is home to the superlative-defying Ngorongoro<br />
Conservation Area. Once a titanic volcano, the crater was<br />
named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for being the largest<br />
unbroken caldera. But there is a downside to this fame:<br />
tourist-carrying vehicles sometimes have to queue to gain<br />
entry to Ngorongoro, and in the Serengeti, there are over<br />
130 lodges, hotels, and camps. For those seeking rawer,<br />
wilder, and emptier Africa, southern Tanzania is extolled as<br />
the real deal: authentic and off the tourist radar – closer to<br />
the Africa of the great white hunters (and more palatably,<br />
explorers) like Frederick Courteney Selous, who the Selous<br />
Reserve is named after. This vast reserve, covering more than<br />
50,000 square kilometres of south-east Tanzania, is twice<br />
the size of Wales and the second largest conservation area<br />
in all of Africa. There is an abundant population of hippo,<br />
giraffe, cheetah, and leopard. It’s also home to the continent’s<br />
largest population of wild dog. It was listed as a UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site in 1982, in recognition of its outstanding<br />
universal value as one of the last remaining large tracts of<br />
wilderness in Africa. To the west of Selous, Ruaha National<br />
Park is little known, and at its heart runs the Ruaha river. It’s<br />
larger than the Serengeti (20,260 square kilometres to the<br />
Serengeti’s 14,763) and only receives six per cent of its visitors<br />
(20,000 annually in comparison to 350,000). It’s famed for<br />
its elephant and buffalo – who perform a mini-migration here<br />
annually. There are also 570 species of birds and it’s home to<br />
ten per cent of Africa’s total lion population, where they live in<br />
super prides. AD<br />
previous page, clockwise from top left: Wildebeest; tented luxury at Sanctuary<br />
Kichakani Serengeti Camp; a lion; campfire views at Kichakani<br />
clockwise from top left: The communal area at Kichakani; exterior view of the<br />
tented camp; zebra; spot the cheetah<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your safari adventure in Tanzania,<br />
contact our Africa travel specialists on 01242 547 702.<br />
SELOUS<br />
When to go:<br />
From June to October, it’s<br />
dry and warm (16-35°C);<br />
November to December, it’s<br />
spring in Selous and there<br />
are short rains; November<br />
to March, it’s the hottest<br />
part of the season with<br />
temperatures rising to<br />
40°C; April to May, camps<br />
are closed for the long rains.<br />
Where to stay:<br />
Azura; Siwandu;<br />
Roho Ye Selous<br />
RUAHA<br />
When to go:<br />
From June to November,<br />
it’s dry and warm (high 20s<br />
during the day); December,<br />
Ruaha only has one annual<br />
rain cycle and it happens<br />
during this month; January<br />
to March is springtime in the<br />
park and migratory birds<br />
return to breed; April to<br />
May, camps are closed.<br />
Where to stay:<br />
Jongomero Camp;<br />
Jabali Ridge<br />
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ALTERNATIVE<br />
INCA TRAILS<br />
WANT TO EXPERIENCE PERU’S MOUNTAINS WITHOUT TAKING ON<br />
THE MADDING CROWDS? NEVER FEAR, SAYS A&K’S GRAEME BULL:<br />
THERE’S MORE TO THE ANDES THAN MACHU PICCHU<br />
You may have heard of the Inca Trail – a four-day hike over 42 kilometres,<br />
which is on just about everyone’s travel bucket list. But while millions flock<br />
to this very beaten track, trekking off-piste can be hugely rewarding. Visit<br />
sites that rival Machu Picchu such as Choquequirao, Peru’s unsung citadel. or take<br />
paths that lead you deep into the Andes without seeing another soul. Who needs<br />
the Inca Trail? Here are five alternative hikes.<br />
NOT SO LITTLE SISTER<br />
Experienced hikers should revel in this lesser-known trail.<br />
Referred to as Machu Picchu’s little sister, the hilltop complex<br />
of Choquequirao dates back to the 15th century. Currently,<br />
the site is only accessible to those willing to take a five-day<br />
hike (60 kilometres) across steep canyon slopes, snowy<br />
mountains and jungle terrain. Unlike its bigger sibling, only<br />
64 kilometres away, which sees over a million visitors per year,<br />
this archaeological site receives only a dozen or so people each<br />
day, who can explore its stone terraces, green plazas and holy<br />
temples in peace. And although Choquequirao hasn’t quite<br />
reached the same iconic status as Machu Picchu, there’s talk of<br />
a cable car for those who don’t want to trek. On the horizon,<br />
there may also be a road connecting it to Machu Picchu. But<br />
for now, hiking means that you can take in a marvellous Inca<br />
site in rare solitude.<br />
DURATION: Five days, or eight should you want to end at<br />
Machu Picchu<br />
BEST SUITED: Intrepid travellers<br />
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 2,896m<br />
A SAVAGE CHALLENGE<br />
Those game for a challenge may want to consider the<br />
Salkantay trek, which includes a mountain pass that reaches<br />
just over 4,572m. You’ll be rewarded for your endeavours with<br />
Salkantay’s raw peaks (Salkantay means ‘savage’) and a journey<br />
along rocky pathways once trodden by the Incas.<br />
En route you can meet Quechuan-speaking indigenous<br />
communities tucked away in the mountain landscape. On your<br />
last day, descend into tropical terrain where adrenalin junkies<br />
can whizz over the jungle canopy on one of South America’s<br />
longest zip lines. End at the Hydroelectrica station, a 45-minute<br />
train journey to Machu Picchu Town. You could camp, but the<br />
hot tubs and deep duvets at Mountain Lodges of Peru along the<br />
trail will help you recuperate after days of adventure.<br />
DURATION: Five days<br />
BEST SUITED: Experienced hikers<br />
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 4,633m<br />
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BEAUTY FOR ALL<br />
One of the most stunning treks in Peru, the terrain on<br />
the Ancascocha route varies from the exposed foothills<br />
of the Andean peaks to the fabled Queuñas forest. With the<br />
help of horses who’ll carry most of the load, the trek isn’t too<br />
strenuous – a good one for adventurous families.<br />
Trek up trails carved by the Incas and take in emerald<br />
lagoons. You can explore traditional stone houses in remote<br />
farming villages, and if you’re lucky you may see a condor or<br />
two. A chef will whip up lunches alfresco and every evening<br />
you’ll arrive at camp in time for happy hour.<br />
DURATION: Three days<br />
BEST SUITED: Those who like off-beat adventures<br />
with perks<br />
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 4,694m<br />
A ROYAL VISIT<br />
Follow the trail to Huchuy Qosqo or ‘Little Cusco’, believed to<br />
be a royal estate of the Inca Emperor, Viracocha. Arrive at the<br />
scenic Laguna Piuray, where horses will be waiting to carry<br />
your bags. As you traverse the countryside and along mountain<br />
passes, you’ll come across jewel-like lakes and plenty of<br />
endemic flora and fauna. You won’t see many people, but you’ll<br />
be confronted with wild Andean views and herds of curious<br />
llama. Stop at an ancient quarry where the Incas cut stones<br />
to build Huchuy Qosqo. After wandering the site with your<br />
history guide and refuelling on deluxe picnic fare, you<br />
can hitch a ride with our 4x4s that will take you down to<br />
the Sacred Valley.<br />
DURATION: Two days<br />
BEST SUITED: Families and those short on time<br />
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: 4,450m<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to book your Andean adventure,<br />
contact our Latin America travel experts on 01242 547 701.<br />
WALK THROUGH HISTORY<br />
Set off along rarely visited ancient Inca roads which wind<br />
through rolling valleys and past high-altitude lakes. Pop into<br />
villages where traditionally dressed farmers live a lifestyle<br />
unchanged for centuries. Every night arrive at your campsite<br />
set up with double beds and hot showers to soothe any aching<br />
muscles, not to mention three-course dinners with your<br />
favourite tipple and decadent picnics with wow-factor views.<br />
If camping’s not your style, then Mountain Lodges Peru offer<br />
post-hike cocktails and plush beds along the way. For those<br />
who don’t want to miss out on trekking to Machu Picchu,<br />
combine this route with a night in a Sacred Valley hotel. The<br />
next day, take a train ride to the KM 104 trail, skipping most<br />
of the crowds, and climb the final seven miles of the main Inca<br />
route to Machu Picchu’s Sun Gate.<br />
DURATION: Four days, or five if you want to end at<br />
Machu Picchu<br />
BEST SUITED: Those who like hiking with added luxury<br />
MAXIMUM ALTITUDE: Around 4,572m<br />
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A&K VILLAS'<br />
FAVOURITES<br />
FOR <strong>2019</strong><br />
As with children, we know you shouldn’t play favourites, but sometimes it just can’t be helped… Infinity pools, moats, gyms, tennis courts,<br />
voice-activated assistants, wine cellars, yoga pavilions, turrets, helipads, private cinemas – at A&K Villas, we know the features that really wow<br />
our guests. And then there are some villas with a little something extra, a certain je ne sais quoi that our villas specialists fall for and ensures<br />
that these rental properties are always on the tips of their tongues. Read on to discover which properties are our picks for <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
Le Mas des Papillons, France<br />
BEST FOR: A RURAL ESCAPE<br />
This 18th-century stone farmhouse-turned-villa shouts<br />
quintessential rural France. White wooden shutters fling open to<br />
Luberon landscapes and three hectares of manicured lawns, olive<br />
groves, and avenues of lavender. Inside, the open-plan kitchen and<br />
sitting room boast original wood beams offset by chic gunmetal<br />
and tones of pale grey. Rustic meets contemporary country-style<br />
in the five bedrooms, all fresh with omnipresent light. Lounge on<br />
soft wicker sunbeds by the aquamarine pool and enjoy long, lazy<br />
lunches in the shade of the patio.<br />
62 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
Mas Mateu, Spain<br />
BEST FOR: CELEBRATING THE RIGHT WAY<br />
Mas Mateu is one for the elite. Within an 18th-century estate,<br />
glass walls set in stone overlook the Catalonian countryside and<br />
snow-capped Pyrenees. The residence is run by a legion of staff<br />
complete with a chef and sommelier, who wouldn’t be out of place<br />
in Michelin-starred restaurants. Sleeping 20, perfect for parties,<br />
rooms boast vaulted ceilings, fireplaces, and private terraces.<br />
Relax by the outdoor pool, in the spa and home cinema. Horse<br />
riders will love the equestrian centre often used by the Spanish<br />
Olympic team. Children can burn energy on the basketball court,<br />
football field, and in the expansive grounds.<br />
Podere San Giorgio, Italy<br />
BEST FOR: CHARACTERFUL RETREATS<br />
Once owned by nobility, Podere San Giorgio remains<br />
the grandest of Sicilian villas, complete with a private<br />
chef, concierge, and views of Mount Etna. Interiors<br />
feel colonial-esque with terracotta tiles, striped sofas, a<br />
large stone fireplace, and Aztec rugs. Eight old-world<br />
bedrooms are decorated with antique furniture and<br />
vintage ornaments. Hang by the outdoor pool reminiscent<br />
of a Slim Aarons photograph, or take a stroll around<br />
the private palm tree collection and orange groves. Play<br />
a game of tennis or a spot of cricket, before the sauna<br />
provides the perfect antidote to all that activity.<br />
akvillas.com | 63
Villa Oaza, Croatia<br />
BEST FOR: WELLNESS WANDERERS<br />
When it comes to Villa Oaza, it’s not all location, location,<br />
location – although the accommodation places you in the<br />
heart of Hvar’s Old Town, moments from the promenade<br />
and marina. It’s so much more – from the Baroque façade<br />
of this 16th-century house to the refurbed interior, and<br />
lavender, jasmine, orange, and lemon blossom-filled gardens.<br />
The interior has been transformed into a lavish wellness centre<br />
with sauna, Jacuzzi, and massage room waiting to centre you<br />
after you’ve spent a long day exploring this long, slender island<br />
in the Adriatic. Stari Grad Plain is a UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site – its location is the home of olive groves planted by Greek<br />
colonists over 2,500 years ago.<br />
Simeroma, Crete<br />
BEST FOR: SUN WORSHIPPING IN STYLE<br />
Where else could the king of the gods, Zeus, have been<br />
born than the island of Crete? Set in the cerulean blue of<br />
the Aegean, Crete has retained its natural beauty, as well<br />
as its wealth of history. Elounda on the island’s northern<br />
coast is centred around a picture-postcard harbour from<br />
which you can sail to Spinalonga. Nearby is the subtle but<br />
luxurious rental, Simeroma. From the Steinway grand<br />
piano in the library to the artwork – both sculpture and<br />
pictorial – touches of classic style are never lacking.<br />
Wander through the ancient olive grove, play a match on<br />
the Davis-Cup-sized court, while away an hour on the<br />
croquet lawn or, of course, drink in the sun and sea views.<br />
A villa fit for a god, or king – or both.<br />
64 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
OUR<br />
FAVOURITE<br />
FAVOURITES<br />
GERMANY<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
Algarve<br />
Bordeaux<br />
Biarritz<br />
SPAIN<br />
Andalusia<br />
FRANCE<br />
Dordogne<br />
Provence<br />
Languedoc-<br />
Roussillon<br />
Catalonia<br />
Majorca<br />
Ibiza<br />
Côte d’Azur<br />
Corsica<br />
Sardinia<br />
Venice<br />
ITALY<br />
Lake Como<br />
Tuscany<br />
Umbria<br />
Rome<br />
Amalfi Coast<br />
Sicily<br />
CROATIA<br />
The Islands<br />
Split<br />
Puglia<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
GREECE<br />
Mykonos<br />
Santorini<br />
Crete<br />
Portugal<br />
Casa Florianne, Algarve, sleeps 10<br />
Villa Saranza, Algarve, sleeps 8+2<br />
Spain<br />
Can de la Roca, Majorca, sleeps 6<br />
Can Jardi, Majorca, sleeps 10<br />
Can Masta, Majorca, sleeps 8+2<br />
Casa Viva, Majorca, sleeps 6<br />
La Luna Rey, Majorca, sleeps 6+4<br />
La Maroma, Andalusia, sleeps 8<br />
Mas Mateu, Catalonia, sleeps 18+17<br />
Pedra d'Or, Majorca, sleeps 10<br />
San Mariana, Majorca, sleeps 16<br />
San Raffa, Majorca, sleeps 8+2<br />
Villa Estila, Majorca, sleeps 8+6<br />
Villa Jondal, Ibiza, sleeps 6<br />
Italy<br />
Borgo di Campioni, Tuscany, sleeps 10<br />
Casetta nel Chianti, Tuscany, sleeps 8<br />
L'Olivo, Umbria, sleeps 12<br />
La Limonaia, Tuscany, sleeps 16<br />
La Perla, Amalfi, sleeps 12<br />
Parco del Principe, Tuscany, sleeps 16<br />
Podere San Giorgio, Sicily, sleeps 16<br />
The Casina, Tuscany, sleeps 2<br />
Villa Cetinale, Tuscany, sleeps 23+4<br />
Villa Nereo, Tuscany, sleeps 14<br />
Croatia<br />
Plavi San, Dalmatian Coast, sleeps 8<br />
Villa Oaza, Hvar, sleeps 10<br />
France<br />
La Borie, Provence, sleeps 10<br />
La Maison du Chais, Bordeaux, sleeps 10<br />
Le Mas des Papillons, Provence, sleeps 9<br />
Le Mas des Roses, Provence, sleeps 14<br />
Le Mas des Trois Platanes, Provence, sleeps 15<br />
Les Terrasses, Côte d’Azur, sleeps 6+4<br />
Villa Jasmine, Côte d’Azur, sleeps 8+2<br />
Villa Mia, Côte d’Azur, sleeps 10+1<br />
Greece<br />
Simeroma, Crete, sleeps 12+4<br />
Villa Cien, Crete, sleeps 16<br />
Villa Iranai, Crete, sleeps 8<br />
Villa Kamari, Santorini, sleeps 6+2<br />
Villa Octavia, Crete, sleeps 6<br />
Zarassi Estate, Mykonos, sleeps 26+4<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT VILLAS<br />
For all villas holidays, we advise early booking. For more information,<br />
or to discuss a reservation, call our villas specialists on 01242 547 705.<br />
akvillas.com | 65
Pole position<br />
MARKING 200 YEARS SINCE MAN FIRST LAID EYES ON ANTARCTICA, SACHA HARRISON<br />
PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE EXPLORERS WHO FIRST BRAVED THE SOUTHERN OCEAN<br />
It is almost two centuries since Nathaniel Palmer, heading<br />
south on a sealing expedition, laid claim to the discovery of<br />
Antarctica, that beautiful but brutal landscape that has captured<br />
the imaginations of explorers ever since.<br />
Around the South Pole lies a frozen, wind-torn landscape of<br />
floating ice, oily gunmetal seas, and arresting snow-clad peaks.<br />
It’s one of the most severe yet stunning places on Earth, where<br />
no terrestrial mammals exist and marine creatures thrive freely. The<br />
fifth largest continent in the world, this southernmost landmass is<br />
virtually uninhabited by humans, save for a few hardy scientists and<br />
engineers holed up in stark research stations. A land so remote that<br />
it was only discovered in 1820.<br />
It was a big year for explorers during the height of nautical<br />
expeditions, when success lay in tales of derring-do. Nathaniel<br />
Palmer, a young American from Stonington, Connecticut, was<br />
preparing to venture to the ends of the Earth.<br />
Palmer first went to sea at the age of 14 as a sailor on a blockaderunner<br />
in the War of 1812. At a young age, he had all the makings<br />
of an ambitious explorer. In a time when the sealing industry<br />
dominated Stonington, he quickly became a skilled hunter, joining<br />
the fleet in search of rookeries that lay on the South Sea horizons.<br />
In the early days of his career, Palmer served as second mate<br />
onboard Hersilia, the first American ship to reach the South<br />
Shetland Islands.<br />
Together with his crew, he returned to Stonington with as many<br />
as 8,868 fur skins in one season. When the islands grew depleted,<br />
he looked to push his adventures further south.<br />
Success earned Palmer command of his first ship at the tender<br />
age of 21. His vessel? A 47-foot sloop named Hero with a mission<br />
to further scour the South Shetland Islands and their surrounds for<br />
new sealing territories.<br />
It was from the eerie caldera of Deception Island that he first<br />
caught sight of a swathe of polar coastline, later confirmed as the<br />
western tongue of the Antarctic Peninsula, “a snug Antarctic haven”<br />
known today as Palmer Land. Sailing across the wild stretch of<br />
the Drake Passage, he entered iceberg-studded waters where he<br />
identified Antarctica at 63°S in the Orleans Channel, but no furseal<br />
rookeries. As he travelled closer, he saw leopard seal dotted<br />
on the beaches, but an inhospitable shoreline and his duty to his<br />
crew compelled him to return home without setting foot on the<br />
untouched continent.<br />
Who exactly discovered Antarctica remains controversial to this<br />
day. Two other explorers, Fabian Gottliev von Bellingshausen, a<br />
Russian naval officer, and Captain Edward Bransfield, an English<br />
explorer, both reported Antarctic sightings earlier in the same year.<br />
Two centuries later and the frozen continent remains shrouded<br />
in mystery, but it is Palmer’s legacy that lives on. While the<br />
American explorer found the shore inaccessible, today Antarctic<br />
exploration is a much less hazardous experience. A far cry from<br />
Hero’s shallow draught, modern-day luxury cruisers come complete<br />
with high-end navigational equipment and eco-friendly technology.<br />
Not to mention butler service, private balconies, and expert<br />
naturalist guides.<br />
In what was once a hostile environment, intrepid travellers<br />
can experience Antarctica’s frozen beauty on a once-in-a-lifetime<br />
expedition. Follow in Palmer’s wake on an A&K Luxury Expedition<br />
Cruise. A special-edition voyage, Antarctica Discovery: Palmer’s<br />
Bicentennial Expedition, is setting sail aboard the luxurious<br />
Le Lyrial in January 2020.<br />
Weather and conditions allowing, the cruise will visit the blacksand<br />
beaches of Deception Island, peppered with penguin. Some<br />
of the most exciting marine biology research can be seen at Palmer<br />
Station, grafted into the rocky Anvers Island. Then venture all the<br />
way to wildlife-rich Marguerite Bay, the southernmost point of<br />
Palmer’s expedition. Located 66°S of the rarely-transited Antarctic<br />
Circle, discover an epic wilderness in the world’s final frontier.<br />
main: Adélie penguin<br />
clockwise from top left: On deck aboard Le Lyrial; Le Lyrial in Antarctica;<br />
a Le Lyrial cabin; a Zodiac excursion; Palmer Station; seal watching<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
A&K’s 14-night Antarctica Discovery: Palmer’s Bicentennial<br />
Expedition, departing 16 January 2020, starts at £16,070<br />
per person (based on two sharing a Classic Balcony<br />
Stateroom, excludes flights). For more information, call our<br />
luxury expedition cruising specialists on 01242 547 892.<br />
66 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 67
ACCESS<br />
SOUTH-EAST<br />
ASIA<br />
MINGLE<br />
WITH MONKS, TAKE TEA AMONG TEMPLES OR KICKBOX<br />
WITH THE MASTERS AS YOU DISCOVER THE BEST OF SOUTH-<br />
EAST ASIA, WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM A&K, SAYS JOE MEREDITH.<br />
ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: ALEXANDRA ROBERTSON<br />
South-east Asia is a place of spirituality and personality.<br />
Contrasts abound, with tranquil temples tucked away just a<br />
few streets from urban centres, and dense jungle giving way<br />
to gorgeous, golden coast. Countries such as Thailand are<br />
well-established as holiday destinations – Bangkok is the world’s<br />
most visited city by international tourists – whereas Laos and<br />
Myanmar are still on the up. This means, whether you’re drawn<br />
to the most popular sights or pursuing the path less travelled,<br />
there will be something here for you.<br />
A&K has in-country offices across South-east Asia, so we’re<br />
able to deliver a five-star experience first-hand. For something a<br />
little bit special, we’ll pull strings to give you access few others are<br />
privileged to. Fancy a private helicopter ride to secluded jungle<br />
temples? No problem. Want a masterclass in everything from<br />
martial arts to authentic cooking? It’d be our pleasure. Here is just<br />
some of what we can offer in this captivating region.<br />
Cultural highlights<br />
CAMBODIA | CIRQUE DU PHARE<br />
A gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage region of Angkor,<br />
Siem Reap offers ancient temples, vibrant nightlife and eclectic<br />
museums. For something a little more fast-paced than the city’s<br />
hypnotising Apsara dancers, Phare, The Cambodian Circus, is just<br />
the thing. The performing arts group combines folkloric theatre<br />
with gravity-defying circus skills for a crowd-pleasing spectacle.<br />
With A&K, you can enjoy the full VIP experience: a premium seat<br />
inside the circus tent and a one-hour show courtesy of Phare, all<br />
rounded off by an exclusive dinner with the performers and director.<br />
Note: Dinner is subject to the availability of the artists and director<br />
LAOS | HELICOPTER TO THE JARS OF GIANTS<br />
Scattered across the green valleys of Xiangkhoang Plateau lie<br />
hundreds of huge, ancient containers carved from stone. Collectively<br />
referred to as the Plain of Jars, this mysterious archaeological<br />
landscape has fascinated locals and historians for centuries. Little<br />
68 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
SOUTH-EAST ASIA<br />
is known about the civilisation which created it, though tall tales<br />
abound – including some pointing the finger at giants. We can<br />
arrange a scenic helicopter flight out from Luang Prabang or<br />
Vientiane to this unique site. Upon arrival, enjoy a guided tour by an<br />
expert, followed by a picnic arranged just for you. As you gaze out<br />
over the fantastical landscape, let your imagination run wild with<br />
the myths and legends surrounding these Laotian marvels.<br />
MYANMAR | CAPTURE THE MOMENT<br />
Myanmar is chock-full of attractions, from teetering stupas and<br />
Buddhist shrines to colourful markets and hilltop villages. But when<br />
it comes to travel photography, sometimes a selfie-stick and smart<br />
phone just won’t cut it. So you can capture this country at its best,<br />
we can arrange for a professional photographer to accompany you<br />
during a city excursion. Whether you’re in Yangon admiring the<br />
Shwedagon Pagoda, touring Bagan’s ancient temples or cruising<br />
along the Irrawaddy in Mandalay, the photographer will snap<br />
expertly framed, candid pictures for you to cherish. Alternatively,<br />
they can act as a photography instructor, helping you with the<br />
fundamentals and encouraging your own style.<br />
THAILAND | A MUAY THAI MASTERCLASS<br />
Both a contact sport and centuries-old martial art, Muay Thai is<br />
esteemed in Thai culture. It has steadily grown in popularity over the<br />
years, and you’ll now find gyms across the world offering lessons.<br />
If you fancy getting to grips with the basics, or know a thing or two<br />
and are ready to kick it up a level, where better to learn than the<br />
art’s heartland? In Thailand’s capital of Bangkok, A&K can arrange<br />
a private masterclass with an experienced trainer. You’ll leave with<br />
a deeper understanding and appreciation of this unique style of<br />
kickboxing (and feel as though you’ve had a thorough workout).<br />
Note: Maximum of two people per class<br />
Fabulous food<br />
MYANMAR | WINE AND DINE ON TEMPLE GROUNDS<br />
The ancient city of Bagan was once the capital of the Pagan<br />
Kingdom, a civilisation which ruled the Irrawaddy valley for<br />
centuries. Almost a millennium later, many of its towering temples<br />
and pagodas have stood the test of time – despite earthquakes<br />
doing their best to topple them. A tour around these honey and<br />
rose-hued buildings is guaranteed to be a magical experience, but<br />
one you’re likely to share with other tourists. For something a little<br />
more exclusive, we can arrange a private dining experience. While<br />
you dine beneath the stars with temples as your backdrop, you’ll be<br />
treated to a traditional Burmese music and dance performance.<br />
CAMBODIA | LEARN THE ART OF KHMER CUISINE<br />
Siem Reap is a vibrant base for tourists heading to the UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Sites of Angkor, the Khmer Empire’s most<br />
impressive legacy. In this gateway city, we can arrange a culinary<br />
experience with a chef for you to learn the art of traditional<br />
Cambodian cooking. Your first port of call is Phsar Leu, an authentic<br />
market showcasing a dazzling array of ingredients. Once you’ve<br />
collected the essentials, you’ll move to an outdoor kitchen for a<br />
private cooking session. Learn each step from a master of Khmer<br />
cuisine, rustle up something delicious, and then tuck in.<br />
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MYANMAR | A FLOATING FEAST<br />
The tranquil waters of Inle Lake are a perfect vantage point for<br />
taking in the sights of rural Myanmar – fishermen glide in slender<br />
boats trawling for their daily catch, the stilted houses of the Intha<br />
people dot the banks, and cloud-feathered mountains rise and fall<br />
on the horizon. It’s also a scenic place for a bite to eat. We can take<br />
you aboard two anchored boats – one a restaurant, and one its<br />
floating kitchen – where you can indulge in a multi-course feast with<br />
a view. Enjoy appetisers, a choice of mains and a dessert of the day,<br />
accompanied by Myanmarese beer or soft drinks. While you dine,<br />
you can watch the slow ebb and flow of life on Inle Lake.<br />
THAILAND | COOK THAI LIKE A PRO<br />
Thailand is famous for its flavourful food. Aromatic, colourful and<br />
often packing a punch of chilli-heat, it’s a fusion of regional and<br />
international influences which has become popular the world over.<br />
If you want to discover the secrets of cooking fine Thai cuisine<br />
yourself, A&K can help. In Bangkok’s Issaya Cooking Studio,<br />
award-winning chefs Ian Kittichai and Ben McRae can teach you<br />
to tell your tom yums from your som tams. The cooking class can<br />
cater to your specific interests, so whether you’re keen to master the<br />
classics, or into more maverick menus, these celebrity chefs will help.<br />
Sweet charity<br />
MYANMAR | MINGLE WITH MONKS<br />
Myanmar is home to hundreds of thousands of devout Buddhist<br />
monks and nuns. These saffron-robed acolytes aren’t ordained<br />
overnight. Instead, each aspiring monk (or bhikkhu) must prove<br />
themselves with years of rituals and monastic schooling. At the<br />
hilltop monastery of Kalaywa, the young novices – many of whom<br />
are orphans – study Buddhist scriptures. For a rare insight into their<br />
unique way of life, we can organise a visit, where you can sponsor<br />
the last meal of the day for the 1,200 monks-in-residence. Your<br />
donation covers the food provided and you can witness the beaming<br />
smiles and humility of the students as you help to serve their food.<br />
VIETNAM | LEND A HAND IN HO CHI MINH<br />
Take a detour from Ho Chi Minh’s tourist trail to witness something<br />
a little different. The Nhat Hong Centre for the Blind and Visually<br />
Impaired was set up by Catholic nuns to meet an urgent need.<br />
Children with visual impairments face an uphill struggle in<br />
Vietnam, with many unable to access education and facing a<br />
lifetime of challenges. This centre gives these vulnerable children<br />
an opportunity to learn, socialise, play and grow. During your A&K<br />
holiday, you can see the valuable work being done here for yourself<br />
– and even lend a hand. Afterwards, a dining-in-the-dark experience<br />
at Noir restaurant will give you a taste of life without sight.<br />
70 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
SOUTH-EAST ASIA<br />
previous page: Inle Lake fishermen;<br />
photography in Bagan<br />
Clockwise from left: Lake life on Inle,<br />
Myanmar; Buddist monks in Myanmar;<br />
Shwedagon Pagoda at dusk; the ruins of Koh<br />
Ker; dinner in the dark; tom yum soup<br />
Spirituality<br />
MYANMAR | A GOLDEN SUNSET AT SHWEDAGON<br />
The 99-metre-tall, gold-drenched stupa of Shwedagon Pagoda is<br />
an ancient icon of Myanmar. Guarded by two fearsome Chinthes<br />
– themselves a sight to behold – it’s a must-see during a visit here.<br />
While its gilded frame is impressive by day, seeing it shimmer in the<br />
light of 1,000 oil lamps at dusk is truly enlightening. During your<br />
A&K excursion to Shwedagon, work your way around the golden<br />
stupa, lighting the encircling oil lamps one by one. The stage is then<br />
set for the ultimate sunset spectacle. Sit back and drink in the view.<br />
Note: Available October to April<br />
CAMBODIA | BLESSING AND BIKING IN ANGKOR<br />
Although many Cambodians have swapped the pedal power of<br />
the bicycle for the horsepower of the motorbike, a cycle around<br />
Siem Reap still has its charms. In this hub of the Angkor region,<br />
we can organise an early-morning bike ride for you, taking in the<br />
picturesque countryside scenes, weaving by ancient city sights and<br />
enjoying the open air. The 40-minute cycle route will take you to<br />
a small pagoda near Bayon temple – famous for its ancient face<br />
towers. You’ll then take part in a traditional purification ceremony in<br />
which local monks offer a blessing said to bring peace and happiness<br />
to one’s life.<br />
CAMBODIA | HELICOPTER FLIGHT<br />
TO HIDDEN TEMPLES<br />
Around 120 kilometres away from the famous temple complex of<br />
Angkor Wat lies an older, lesser-known UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site. The ruins of Koh Ker spread across remote, forested plains<br />
in rural Siem Reap. This was briefly the capital city of the Khmer<br />
Empire, and its monuments, shrines and temples are fascinating<br />
relics of a once-powerful civilisation. A&K can whisk you away in<br />
a private helicopter for a scenic flight to Koh Ker. Continue on to<br />
Beng Mealea, one of the largest temple complexes in the Khmer<br />
empire, now mostly hidden within an overgrown forest.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to discuss your next tailormade<br />
adventure to South-East Asia, call our Asia travel<br />
specialists on 01242 547 895.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 71
“It was the best trip ever.<br />
India is exhausting but<br />
amazing: it surpassed all my<br />
expectations on every level.”<br />
KERRY GOLDS, A&K’S MANAGING DIRECTOR,<br />
TRAVELLED TO INDIA FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 2018<br />
THE<br />
JOURNEYMEN<br />
AND WOMEN<br />
2018 WAS THE YEAR FOR INDIA, WITH A&K’S TRAVELLING<br />
TEAM RETURNING BUZZING ABOUT THE SUB-CONTINENT.<br />
WE ASK, WHERE DID THEY GO AND WHY HAS IT FIRED THEM UP?<br />
FROM THE COUNTRY’S SPIRITUAL HEARTLAND TO ITS WILDLIFE<br />
RESERVES, TAKE A TOUR THROUGH INDIA WITH OUR EXPERTS<br />
72 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
INDIA<br />
Lisa Warner DIRECTOR OF MARKETING<br />
Where did you go?<br />
Delhi, Agra, Ranthambore, Jaipur, Shahpura, Jodhpur,<br />
and Udaipur.<br />
Why there?<br />
India has been a destination I’ve wanted to visit for years –<br />
I knew one trip would never be enough so decided to start<br />
with the Golden Triangle, leaving the south for future visits.<br />
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your<br />
destination(s) before you went?<br />
Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie. A very Indian novel<br />
that doesn’t so much teach you its history – it immerses you<br />
in it. It’s a great way to learn about India’s violent, tragic, and<br />
optimistic rebirth following Independence.<br />
What was in your suitcase?<br />
Flip flops and sunglasses on the way there. Indian textiles by<br />
the dozen on the way home.<br />
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made<br />
it so?<br />
Honestly, every place we stayed was outstanding, but if I<br />
had to pick one, then Sujan Rajmahal Palace in Jaipur was a<br />
highlight. A palace in a previous life, it boasts just 15 suites<br />
and rooms, all named after illustrious former guests, giving<br />
it an intimate, boutique feel. The interior design could<br />
have been overwhelming – with vibrant colours, heavily<br />
patterned wallpaper, and velvet furniture throughout – but it<br />
just works. They’ve combined the past and the present with<br />
incredible results and the personal, unobtrusive service was<br />
first-class.<br />
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite<br />
place and why?<br />
Udaipur – for all the reasons the guide books tell you. By<br />
Indian standards it’s relatively peaceful. Whether you wander<br />
the narrow streets, cruise the lake at sunset, or enjoy the view<br />
at dinner from any of the excellent lakefront restaurants, it’s a<br />
fabulously colourful and romantic city.<br />
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where<br />
did you eat it?<br />
We did a street food tour in Agra and the deep-fried, pipinghot<br />
parathas with vegetables and pickles from Ram Babu<br />
Paratha Bhandar were so good we went back for seconds.<br />
What were the best things you did while in India?<br />
A morning cycle-ride around Jaipur was incredible. An early<br />
start meant we avoided the traffic and had time to be part of a<br />
city just waking up – meandering through the flower market,<br />
going to temple with the locals, and enjoying a cup of chai on<br />
a rooftop overlooking the city walls. Other standouts were<br />
learning to make paratha during a cooking lesson in Delhi,<br />
hanging out with local ladies at lunch in a small rural village,<br />
joining a classroom full of children in time for their English<br />
lesson, spotting a sloth bear on safari... I could go on!<br />
What was the best experience you had?<br />
Clichéd but no less true: visiting the Taj Mahal. We took<br />
photos at sunset and returned the next morning for sunrise.<br />
On the advice of our guide, we sped past the camera-clicking,<br />
selfie-taking hordes and for five magical minutes we were<br />
completely alone inside the Taj Mahal. It was one of the few<br />
times in my life when using words like awe-inspiring,<br />
breath-taking, and jaw-dropping actually seemed justified.<br />
Did you bring anything back?<br />
A suitcase full of incredible scarves, throws, and bedspreads.<br />
I never normally bring anything back from holidays, except<br />
photos, but the fabrics were extraordinary so everybody<br />
I know is getting something from India this Christmas.<br />
Did you learn anything?<br />
That I only scratched the surface of what there is to learn<br />
about India’s diverse culture, faiths, history, and customs<br />
– hence the need to return. And that tiger are notoriously<br />
difficult to spot.<br />
How did the destination make its mark on you?<br />
Like every good travel experience, it gave me a lifetime of<br />
memories and a yearning to create more.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 73
Graeme Bull PRODUCT MANAGER<br />
Where did you go?<br />
Kolkata, Bawali, Delhi, Amritsar, Dharamshala,<br />
and Chandigarh.<br />
Why there?<br />
To discover more about West Bengal and its fascinating<br />
history, especially in reference to the UK. The stretch<br />
of countryside from Amritsar has always been an area of<br />
wonder for me and it didn’t disappoint.<br />
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your<br />
destination(s) before you went?<br />
No, but I have recently read The Silk Roads: A New History<br />
of the World by Peter Frankopan. It’s a great read for anyone<br />
wanting to travel east.<br />
What was in your suitcase?<br />
A suit for my meetings, but also a pair of flip flops for when I<br />
could go out and explore.<br />
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made<br />
it so?<br />
The Rajbari Bawali in Bawali, which is an hour and a half<br />
from Kolkata. This heritage hotel delivers something unique<br />
in India. Its history, location, and service made for quite<br />
an experience.<br />
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite<br />
place and why?<br />
The Langar at the Golden Temple in Amritsar. This<br />
volunteer-run, free kitchen serves up to 100,000 people each<br />
day. It was a humbling and amazing operation to witness.<br />
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where<br />
did you eat it?<br />
The food served at The Rajbari Bawali was amazing, but, out<br />
and about, I’m always happy with a good kati roll.<br />
What was the best experience you had?<br />
At St Paul’s Cathedral in Kolkata, I went through the archives<br />
and was able to see my great-grandmother’s baptism forms<br />
from 1885. This was signed by my great-great-grandparents,<br />
I had never seen their writing before and it was a real Who<br />
Do You Think You Are? moment. My guide then showed me<br />
round the cathedral, so I could see where she actually would<br />
have been baptised.<br />
Did you bring anything back?<br />
Some jewellery. My partner is a jewellery designer and so I<br />
had to hit the bazaars.<br />
Did you learn anything?<br />
A lot about colonial history, Sikhism, Buddhism, and the<br />
Tibetan people.<br />
How did the destination make its mark on you?<br />
This is hard to define, but I think anyone who travels to India<br />
is indelibly changed by the experience.<br />
74 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
INDIA<br />
Brandon Clements<br />
SENIOR TRAVEL SPECIALIST, INDIAN SUB-CONTINENT<br />
Where did you go?<br />
I went on a whistle-stop, 24-hour tour of Mumbai’s lesser visited<br />
districts, then on to three national parks in the state of Madhya<br />
Pradesh, and I finished with two nights in the newly refurbished<br />
Oberoi Delhi before flying home.<br />
Why there?<br />
Being a bit of a wildlife enthusiast, I wanted to get an authentic<br />
tiger safari experience at the same time as exploring India’s central<br />
jungles, made famous by Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book.<br />
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your<br />
destination(s) before you went?<br />
I tend not to read much but I did watch a re-run of Tiger – Spy in the<br />
Jungle, a great BBC documentary predominantly filmed in Pench<br />
National Park a decade ago.<br />
What was in your suitcase?<br />
Essential were a mirrorless camera with zoom lens for the wildlife,<br />
my GoPro, horrendous camouflage safari shirt, and Keen sandals.<br />
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made it so?<br />
Taj Banjaar Tola – African-style safari tents with distinctly Indian<br />
décor set in the buffer zone of Kanha National Park. The tents are<br />
huge inside with all mod cons, a sundeck overlooking the river and<br />
pool, plus great staff, service, and cuisine.<br />
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite place<br />
and why?<br />
Pench National Park gave me my first tiger sighting in central India.<br />
We were the only jeep parked up overlooking a dry riverbed during<br />
a morning game drive. We were lucky enough to spend around an<br />
hour watching a tigress and her two cubs exploring their territory.<br />
The highlight was the two cubs<br />
play fighting each other and<br />
stalking prey, before resting with<br />
their mother underneath the<br />
shade of a large banyan tree.<br />
What was the best thing you<br />
ate on holiday, and where did<br />
you eat it?<br />
Everything on the street-food tour of Delhi – especially jalebi (an<br />
extremely rich dessert made by deep frying swirls of maida flour and<br />
afterwards drenching them in sugary syrup) purchased from Old<br />
Famous Jalebi Wala in Chandni Chowk. Kachori, a savoury snack<br />
made from stuffing spicy moong dal and vegetables into casings<br />
made from flour, deep frying, and then covering in a curry sauce<br />
– purchased from Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala in Chandni Chowk –<br />
was also incredible.<br />
What were the best things you did while in India?<br />
All the tiger safaris were amazing, and the wildlife-spotting was<br />
excellent. A Mumbai by Dawn tour was also a highlight, as was<br />
experiencing the luxury at the Oberoi Delhi – any hotel that plays<br />
chill-out music you can hear underwater as you swim gets a thumbs<br />
up from me.<br />
What was the best experience you had?<br />
Seeing a tiger kill on the final game drive of the trip.<br />
Did you bring anything back?<br />
A wooden carving of the Hindu god Ganesh, the remover of<br />
obstacles and difficulties. It’s come in very handy – I’m currently<br />
renovating my new house.<br />
Did you learn anything?<br />
Chai is always served very, very, very sweet; any brand of cold beer in<br />
40-degree, pre-monsoon heat tastes good; and tiger are sneaky.<br />
How did the destination make its mark on you?<br />
As with all trips to India, it left me wanting more. I’m already<br />
planning another trip next year to the Indian Himalaya and<br />
Andaman Islands.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 75
Rosanna Milburn<br />
INDIAN SUB-CONTINENT PRODUCT ASSISTANT<br />
Where did you go?<br />
Hyderabad, Hampi, Chikmagalur, Coorg, Kabini, Mysore,<br />
and Bengaluru.<br />
Why there?<br />
To experience the culture – everything from the amazing<br />
(and spicy) food and the ancient ruins of the UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site of Hampi, to witnessing the bustling<br />
local businesses of Bengaluru. I went on my first safari at<br />
Nagarhole National Park and saw a leopard within the first<br />
ten minutes. This is rare, particularly in monsoon season,<br />
but the park is great for spotting a variety of wildlife. These<br />
locations offer another side to India – a greener, more<br />
tranquil place that you usually don’t see on a first trip to<br />
the country.<br />
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your<br />
destination(s) before you went?<br />
No – as a former English literature student and a travel<br />
professional, this is shameful, I know.<br />
What was in your suitcase?<br />
My camera, GoPro, and chocolate (just in case).<br />
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made<br />
it so?<br />
Taj Falaknuma Palace [pictured below]. From the gold<br />
horse-drawn carriage to the rose-petal baths and personalised<br />
service, this hotel is all about luxury. As soon as you take<br />
your first step into the lobby, you’ll see amazing art. The hotel<br />
is filled with interesting objects – take a Champagne tour,<br />
guided by a historian, and you will see the grand 101-seater<br />
dining table and a unique ivory snooker table. Attention to<br />
detail here is next level. The outdoor dining area offers great<br />
views and is the perfect place to enjoy a jasmine cocktail.<br />
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite<br />
place and why?<br />
Hampi was my favourite destination. It’s perfect for those<br />
interested in history and architecture. Now a city in ruins, the<br />
capital was renowned for its stunning architecture, parts of<br />
which can still be seen and explored today.<br />
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where<br />
did you eat it?<br />
Mysore pak at a local sweet shop in Mysore.<br />
What were the best things you did while in India?<br />
Exploring the different temples of Hampi was really<br />
interesting. In Coorg, we visited Namdroling Monastery<br />
and got to witness the Tibetan Buddhist monks praying –<br />
a memorable sight. In Mysore we took a cooking class at a<br />
local home and made our own dosa. This was a really fun<br />
experience and a great opportunity to interact with a local<br />
family while enjoying chai tea.<br />
What was the best experience you had?<br />
I really enjoyed exploring Bengaluru and being immersed in<br />
its bustling atmosphere.<br />
Did you bring anything back?<br />
Coffee, incense sticks, and stacks of bangles from the local<br />
market in Mysore.<br />
Did you learn anything?<br />
Being my first trip to India, I learnt a lot about the culture,<br />
the mythology surrounding different monuments, and<br />
different religious beliefs.<br />
How did the destination make its mark on you?<br />
I loved India and enjoyed experiencing the culture. It has<br />
definitely made me want to go back again and see what else<br />
the country has to offer.<br />
76 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
INDIA<br />
Gabriele Niems PRIVATE CLIENT MANAGER<br />
Where did you go?<br />
Northern India.<br />
Why there?<br />
For the culture, people, spiritual experience, gorgeous hotels,<br />
and delicious food.<br />
Did you read anything (fiction or non-fiction) about your<br />
destination(s) before you went?<br />
No, but I re-watched The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel –<br />
a wonderful movie set in Rajasthan.<br />
What was in your suitcase?<br />
An alarm clock – we had a lot of early starts.<br />
Did you stay anywhere outstanding? If so, what made<br />
it so?<br />
The Taj Lake Palace – as the name suggests, this hotel is a<br />
palace built on the lake. I was upgraded to a Grand Royal<br />
Suite, which had a winter garden overlooking the lake.<br />
The best bit was the Jacuzzi, which was bigger than most<br />
apartments in Monte Carlo. On two sides, there were views<br />
of the lake – I didn’t emerge from that Jacuzzi for hours.<br />
Of all the places you visited – where was your favourite<br />
place and why?<br />
Jodhpur – the Blue City. The Mehrangarh Fort felt so<br />
spiritual and the view across the blue rooftops of the city was<br />
stunning. I visited the nearby Bishnoi village community<br />
– interacting with local farmers and pottery makers, and<br />
witnessing an opium ceremony were interesting. These<br />
memories will last a long time.<br />
What were the best things you did while in India?<br />
Feeding a cow with grass for protection; interacting with<br />
school children from a children’s home; and washing and<br />
feeding orphan elephant.<br />
What was the best experience you had?<br />
A behind-the-scenes tour of a Ganesh factory, where huge<br />
statues are built and painted by artists for the Ganesh<br />
Festival. Seeing Mumbai by dawn and watching the<br />
Koli women, the oldest residents of the city, buying and<br />
auctioning fish. Visiting a school project run by AKP in<br />
Udaipur – learning how teachers and underprivileged<br />
children learn and work together. Their principles and ethics<br />
should be an example to any Western school.<br />
Did you bring anything back?<br />
Besides lots of great memories, a wooden Ganesh.<br />
Did you learn anything?<br />
I learnt a lot about the culture and people and how they value<br />
life and interact with their surroundings.<br />
Did the destination make its mark on you?<br />
How could it not?<br />
What was the best thing you ate on holiday, and where<br />
did you eat it?<br />
The chilli-stuffed mushrooms at the Taj Lake Palace get<br />
my vote.<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information, or to create your own Indian adventure,<br />
call our India travel specialists on 01242 547 755.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 77
FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF AMERICAN NOVELIST<br />
MARK TWAIN WITH A JOURNEY TO SRI LANKA.<br />
ACCORDING TO TWAIN, THIS TEAR-SHAPED COUNTRY<br />
WAS ‘ALL HARMONIOUS, ALL IN PERFECT TASTE’.<br />
A Z<br />
TO<br />
OF SRI LANKA<br />
FROM RECEIVING A BLESSING UNDER THE WORLD’S OLDEST TREE<br />
AT ANURADHAPURA TO WATCHING MINIATURE ZEBU GRAZING<br />
ALONG THE SHORES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN, EXPERIENCES IN<br />
SRI LANKA SPAN A TRAVELLER’S ALPHABET FROM A TO Z
SRI LANKA<br />
AANURADHAPURA<br />
Receive a blessing at the world’s<br />
oldest recorded tree, the Jaya Sri<br />
Maha Bodhi, when you visit the UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site of Anuradhapura. The<br />
sacred fig tree, in Mahamewna Gardens, is<br />
said to come from a branch of the tree under<br />
which Buddha attained Enlightenment.<br />
Incredible to think it was planted in around<br />
288 BC. Today, Buddhists bring offerings<br />
and pay homage.<br />
BBENTOTA<br />
Coconut palms dominate the landscape of the beautiful<br />
beach at Bentota. This family-friendly shore on the west<br />
coast is renowned for its clean, fine sand lapped by the crystalline<br />
waters of the Indian Ocean. From November to April, Bentota<br />
Beach is ideal for wind-surfing, sailing and water skiing. Enjoy<br />
sunset walks along the sand. Travel to the<br />
nearby Kosgoda Sea Turtle Hatchery to<br />
gain an insight into the challenge<br />
of protecting turtles.<br />
CCULTURAL TRIANGLE<br />
Explore the sacred shrines of<br />
the Cultural Triangle, made up of<br />
the ancient cities of Anuradhapura,<br />
Polonnaruwa and Dambulla,<br />
renowned for its rock cave temple.<br />
This jewel in Sri Lanka’s crown is<br />
brimming with Buddhist temples<br />
and ancient cities, and capped by<br />
the World Heritage Sigiriya Rock<br />
Fortress. Be the first to stay at the<br />
luxurious Sigiriya Resort when it<br />
opens in 2020 and enjoy spectacular<br />
views of lakes and mountains.<br />
DDAMBULLA<br />
This great cave-temple complex<br />
includes the largest number<br />
of Buddha statues ever found in one<br />
place. The Dambulla Cave Temple, a<br />
UNESCO site, is still used by monks<br />
for meditation. Founded in the 1st century<br />
BC by King Valagamba, these numerous caves<br />
feature Hindu statues, sculptures,<br />
and frescoes that date back to<br />
the 12th century.<br />
EELEPHANT<br />
At Udawalawe National<br />
Park, the Sri Lankan<br />
elephant is the star of the show.<br />
There are more than 500 of<br />
these gentle giants in the park,<br />
roaming in herds of up to 30. Sri<br />
Lankan elephant are the largest of the<br />
three Asian subspecies. Elsewhere on<br />
the island, every year ‘the Gathering’<br />
occurs, when hundreds of elephant<br />
migrate to the shores of an ancient reservoir in<br />
Minneriya National Park.<br />
FFOOD<br />
Indulge in Sri Lanka’s rich melting-pot cuisine. Start your<br />
day with a traditional breakfast of hoppers, bowl-shaped<br />
pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk. Better<br />
still, why not learn how to make this local delicacy in a cooking<br />
class? Don’t leave without feasting on the ultimate street food of<br />
kottu roti along with green<br />
jackfruit curry and tangy<br />
gotu kola mallung (salad).<br />
GGALLE<br />
The walled trading<br />
port of Galle is a<br />
mix of the exotic with the<br />
colonial. The architecture of<br />
this UNESCO Heritage Site<br />
reflects its Dutch history and<br />
Sri Lankan tradition. Take the<br />
time to explore Galle Fort. A<br />
walled enclave surrounded on<br />
three sides by the ocean, this<br />
impressive fortress includes a<br />
fascinating maritime museum.<br />
Galle is the perfect place to<br />
pick up some spices or<br />
visit a nearby cinnamon<br />
plantation.<br />
HHAPUTALE<br />
Enjoy the ultimate<br />
cuppa on the actual<br />
tea estate started by Sir<br />
Thomas Lipton himself. From<br />
Dambatenne Tea Factory you<br />
can take a tuk-tuk to Lipton’s<br />
Seat lookout and gaze across the<br />
emerald hills to no fewer than<br />
seven different provinces. Stay<br />
on the southern edge of Hill Country, in Thotalagala, a beautifully<br />
restored 16th-century plantation bungalow.<br />
IINNINGS<br />
A legacy of British colonial rule, cricket is played everywhere<br />
in Sri Lanka from the beaches to the back streets of Colombo.<br />
The islanders are keen cricketers and even won the Cricket World<br />
Cup in 1996. Watch The Lions play an innings at grounds in the<br />
capital or in Galle, which had one of the world’s most picturesque<br />
pitches, bordered on two sides by the iridescent Indian Ocean.<br />
JJAFFNA<br />
Discover more about Sri<br />
Lankan’s Tamil culture with<br />
a visit to Jaffna. This intriguing<br />
place, off the beaten track, features<br />
attractive palm-shaded, old-world<br />
suburbs and beautiful temples<br />
and churches. The city, which is<br />
rebuilding itself after decades of war,<br />
emigration, and embargoes, is an<br />
ideal base for exploring the idyllic<br />
islands just to the west and trips<br />
along the coastline and lagoons<br />
of the surrounding peninsula.
O<br />
OYATE INGRISI KA-THA<br />
KARANNA<br />
PULU-WANDA?<br />
Do you speak English? Always a<br />
handy phrase whatever country<br />
you’re in. When you’re travelling<br />
through Sri Lanka, you can use the<br />
Sinhalese phrase: “Oyate ingrisi ka-tha<br />
karanna pulu-wanda?” The local<br />
people will appreciate it.<br />
KKANDY<br />
Retreat to the Sri Lankan Hill Country, home<br />
to the world-famous tea plantations which<br />
fringe the city of Kandy. One of its most popular<br />
events is the Esala Perahera, which takes place in<br />
July or August. The Perahera is held in honour of the<br />
Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha. The grand procession<br />
features elephant, rhythmic drummers, and dancers.<br />
LLION ROCK<br />
Why not climb<br />
to the top of<br />
Sigiriya Rock? The<br />
magnificent rock-top<br />
fortress is known as<br />
the ‘Lion Rock’. As<br />
you ascend, look out<br />
for the mirror wall,<br />
frescoes, and the great<br />
lion’s paw. Incredibly, this<br />
spectacular construction<br />
was commissioned by<br />
King Kashyapa I in the<br />
5th century. From the<br />
summit, take in<br />
panoramic views<br />
over the jungle and<br />
green rolling hills.<br />
MMINISTRY OF CRAB<br />
Ministry of Crab is one of Colombo’s top<br />
eateries, and number 25 on the list of<br />
Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Co-owned by former Sri<br />
Lankan cricket stars Kumar Sangakkara and Mahela<br />
Jayawardene, this is the place to eat lagoon crab.<br />
From quality ingredients to its prime location at the Old<br />
Dutch Hospital in Colombo, this knockout eatery has it<br />
all. Sample the chilli crab which uses a variety of Sri<br />
Lankan spices to create warmth and sweetness. You can<br />
even opt for a two-kilogram Crabzilla!<br />
NNUWARA ELIYA<br />
Known as ‘Little England’ for its picturesque landscape<br />
and cool climate, Nuwara Eliya was discovered by<br />
John Davy in around 1818. Road and rail approaches are<br />
dramatic as both routes hug the narrow mountain passes<br />
before making the steep climb down. The city, lying in the<br />
shadow of the country’s tallest mountain, Pidurutalagala,<br />
features colonial-era architecture.<br />
P<br />
PERADENIYA<br />
The fragrant walkways of the<br />
Royal Botanical Gardens in<br />
Peradeniya are bursting with its collection of<br />
rare orchids. It was here that the first leaves of<br />
tea, imported from China, were grown. You can<br />
stroll through the classic Avenue of Palms and see the<br />
Cannonball Tree planted by King George V in 1901.<br />
Q<br />
QUADRANGLE, POLONNARUWA<br />
Just north of the Royal Palace ruins in the ancient<br />
city of Polonnaruwa is the Quadrangle, a group of<br />
ruins raised on a stone bank and bounded by a wall. This<br />
concentrated collection of monuments includes the Vatadage,<br />
which is where it is thought the tooth relic of the Buddha was<br />
enshrined, and is surrounded by four well-preserved seated<br />
Buddha statues.<br />
R<br />
RESPLENDENT ISLAND<br />
Did you know Sri Lanka means ‘resplendent island’ in<br />
Sanskrit? Formerly known as Ceylon under British<br />
rule, it was only renamed in 1972, despite gaining<br />
independence in 1948. You can join locals for a day<br />
of celebration on 4 February each year to mark Sri<br />
Lankan National Day. The country comes together for<br />
flag-hoisting ceremonies, dances, military parades and<br />
cultural events.<br />
S<br />
STILT FISHING<br />
It’s mesmerising to watch the locals<br />
stilt fishing. Unique to Sri Lanka, the<br />
practice consists of sitting on a single pole<br />
and crossbar mounted in the shallows<br />
while wooden rods are used to catch the<br />
fish. Fishermen balance on the stilt and<br />
wait silently. Early morning and late<br />
afternoon are the optimum times<br />
to watch this spectacle.<br />
T<br />
TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH<br />
No visit to Kandy would<br />
be complete without a<br />
pilgrimage to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth.<br />
You can experience Thevava or ‘offering’ at the temple<br />
which houses Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist<br />
relic, a tooth of the Buddha. As monks carry out the<br />
ceremony to the sounds of drums, breathe in the heady<br />
scent of incense and jasmine which fills the inner<br />
sanctum. Remember to dress respectfully.<br />
80 | SPRING/SUMMER <strong>2019</strong>
SRI LANKA<br />
WORDS: JANET BRICE. ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: ALICIA DEVENEY<br />
U<br />
UNESCO<br />
Few countries are blessed with as many UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Sites as this gem in the Indian Ocean, making<br />
it perfect for a cultural odyssey. Its seven historic marvels are<br />
the sacred city of Anuradhapura, the ancient settlements of<br />
Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya, the Golden Temple of Dambulla, the<br />
old town of Galle, the magnificent temples and palaces of the<br />
royal city of Kandy, and the Sinharaja Forest Reserve.<br />
Y<br />
YALA<br />
This national<br />
park may be<br />
famous for having one of the<br />
highest leopard concentrations<br />
in the world, but you can also view<br />
elephant and sloth bear here. It’s estimated<br />
that more than 40 leopards live within the<br />
130,000 hectares of Yala, the country’s oldest<br />
park, which borders the Indian Ocean. Spotted<br />
deer, wild boar, buffalo, and flocks of migratory<br />
birds also call this slice of Sri Lanka home.<br />
V<br />
VIRGIN RAINFOREST<br />
The virgin rainforest of Sinharaja is the most<br />
biologically unique lowland forest in Sri Lanka,<br />
covering 11,187 hectares from east to west. This UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site is a great place for birdwatchers. You can<br />
see the Ceylon lorikeet, Layard’s parakeet, Ceylon blue magpie<br />
and the white-throated flowerpecker, among others.<br />
W<br />
WORLD’S END<br />
Early morning is the best<br />
time to visit the<br />
awe-inducing escarpment of World’s End. From your<br />
vantage point within the Horton Plains National Park in<br />
Nuwara Eliya you should see tea plantation villages in the valley<br />
below and views towards the coast. A trek to the sheer cliff, with<br />
a drop of about 1,200 metres, usually takes about three hours.<br />
X<br />
X MARKS THE SPOT<br />
X out of ten to anyone who knew the Romans visited<br />
Sri Lanka by accident. In 45 AD a ship was caught in a<br />
monsoon and landed in a natural harbour of Taprobane (as it<br />
was known to the ancient Greeks). Evidence of the landing can<br />
be seen in Jetavana Museum at Anuradhapura where Roman<br />
coins, found at the nearby monastery, are on display.<br />
Z<br />
ZEBU<br />
A familiar sight grazing in rural parts of Sri Lankan<br />
is the zebu. You can recognise this diminutive breed<br />
of cattle by the distinctive fatty hump on its shoulders. Well<br />
adapted to thrive in the intense heat and drought conditions,<br />
the zebu is the world’s smallest natural breed of cow. When fully<br />
grown, they measure less than one metre and are occasionally<br />
kept as pets by children.<br />
previous page: Sigiriya Lion Rock<br />
From A to Z: The Bodhi tree, Anuradhapura; turtle; Polonnaruwa;<br />
elephant; Galle Fort; Vallipuram Alvar Vishnu Kovil, Jaffna; Esala Perahera<br />
procession in Kandy; Lion Rock; rare orchid; stilt fisherman; view from top<br />
of Sigiriya Rock; Temple of the Tooth; Ceylon blue magpie; leopard<br />
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT<br />
For more information on visiting this gem of an island, or to<br />
book your very own A to Z of Sri Lanka’s many wonders, call<br />
our Indian Sub-continent travel experts on 01242 547 755.<br />
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 81
A&K PHILANTHROPY<br />
THE WATER’S EDGE<br />
AKP’s wells and straws are<br />
helping more than 40,000<br />
people across two countries<br />
Regular readers of these pages will<br />
know that water, and related hygiene,<br />
health and sanitation projects, are<br />
key in Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy’s<br />
efforts to improve the lives of residents in the<br />
diverse destinations we visit. Water may be a<br />
basic human right, but its effects go far beyond<br />
quenching thirst. Clean water is also crucial to<br />
preserving agriculture, ecosystems and cultural<br />
development. According to the United Nations,<br />
there are 633 million people in the world (one<br />
in 10) without access to clean drinking water.<br />
In Kenya and Cambodia, due to<br />
contaminated water, malnutrition and disease<br />
are the norm. Recognising that water is<br />
key to both society and the environment,<br />
Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy (AKP)<br />
operates clean water programmes in these<br />
countries. In Kenya’s Masai Mara and<br />
Cambodia’s Siem Reap, wells and straws<br />
are both playing a vital role. Together with<br />
local support on the ground, award-winning<br />
collaborators and generous donations, our bid<br />
to tackle water contamination continues.<br />
IN CAMBODIA<br />
More than half of the total deaths in Cambodia<br />
are due to water-borne illnesses, many in the<br />
country’s rural communities where locals can<br />
only access contaminated sources.<br />
Ten years ago, AKP started tackling the<br />
issue by building water wells for families in<br />
the rural villages of Siem Reap. Working with<br />
trusted local partners, we continue to install<br />
bio-sand filter wells as well as carrying out<br />
yearly spot checks to perform maintenance<br />
and ensure sustainability.<br />
By the latest count, our teams have built<br />
more than 1,200 wells, providing clean water<br />
to over 28,000 people and offering fresh new<br />
starts for Cambodian families.<br />
And it’s not just village communities that<br />
benefit from the wells. Livestock and farms<br />
flourish due to functioning, well-supplied<br />
irrigation systems.<br />
Want to get involved? If you’re on your way<br />
to Cambodia, request a visit to Siem Reap’s<br />
outer villages to experience our project<br />
first-hand and meet our local operatives.<br />
Learn how to install a bio-sand filtered well<br />
and witness their impact on both health and<br />
the environment.<br />
MEANWHILE, IN KENYA<br />
Many of the communities in Kenya’s Masailand<br />
share the same water as wildlife and cattle and<br />
hence are subject to a wide range of diseases.<br />
Inevitably it’s the most vulnerable who suffer<br />
the most – children are no strangers to the<br />
relentless struggle of being forced to miss<br />
school due to water-borne illnesses.<br />
In the Masai Mara 12 months ago, AKP<br />
joined forces with LifeStraw, inventors of a<br />
high-volume water purifier, whose straw-like<br />
filter successfully aids projects in over 64<br />
countries around the world. When it launched,<br />
the Safe Water for Schools project introduced<br />
sustainable access to clean water in the least<br />
invasive way, and brought safe drinking water<br />
to 7,078 students in 11 schools.<br />
LifeStraw’s hollow-fibre purification<br />
technology removes 99.9 per cent of bacteria,<br />
viruses and parasites. The purifiers themselves<br />
may not look impressive, but a single filter<br />
will serve 100 children per day for up to five<br />
years. In its lifetime, just one can produce up to<br />
100,000 litres of clean water.<br />
Our team also orchestrates follow-up visits,<br />
training and support so that communities can<br />
remain self-sufficient. A year later and AKP<br />
and LifeStraw are proud to be providing all<br />
schools around the Masai Mara with clean<br />
water, helping over 15,000 students reach their<br />
full potential.<br />
Heading to Kenya? Visit a local school where<br />
you can witness the operation in action, talk to<br />
the students and see our progress.<br />
| ABERCROMBIE & KENT PHILANTHROPY |<br />
If you would like to know more about Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy, please call us on 01242 547 760,<br />
or visit akphilanthropy.org to find out about other projects we are involved in.
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