World Traveller January 2019

INSPIRED BY 

ISSUE 129 | JANUARY 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

HONG KONG 

BERLIN 

NORWAY 

US ROAD TRIP 

Produced in Dubai Production City 

Idyllic Indian Ocean 

From over-ocean villas in the Maldives to 

natural wonders in Mauritius, we dive into the 

Indian Ocean’s treasured islands

Welcome note 

For globetrotters like us, the start of a new year calls for a 

new roster of destinations to visit and mind-blowing travel 

experiences to relish, and this issue is packed with ideas that 

are sure to earn a place on your wish list. 

Managing Director 

Victoria Thatcher 

Editorial Director 

John Thatcher 

General Manager 

David Wade 

Managing Editor 

Faye Bartle 

faye@hotmediapublishing.com 

Content Writer 

Habiba Azab 

Art Director 

Kerri Bennett 

Senior Designer 

Hiral Kapadia 

Senior Advertising Manager 

Mia Cachero 

mia@hotmediapublishing.com 

Regular readers will notice that, in the spirit of 

new beginnings, World Traveller has undergone 

a revamp to make way for even more travel tips 

and inspiration from those in-the-know. Our cover 

story (p26) whisks you away to the Indian Ocean, 

shining a light on everything from brand spanking 

new Maldives resorts (get there before the rest), to 

where to walk among giant tortoises in Seychelles, 

and pampering spa havens in Sri Lanka. 

Drawing on our insider intelligence, dnata 

Travel’s resident globetrotter Emily Williams tells 

us which destinations are trending right now (p8) 

while our woman on the ground in Berlin helps 

you get under the skin of this achingly cool capital 

in her long weekend guide on p66. 

We hope you like our new direction, and we 

invite you to share your own travel stories with 

us. Turn to p82 to see how you can carry on the 

conversation on our digital channels. 

Happy travels, 

Faye Bartle 

Win! 

Find out how you can 

win a three-night stay 

at Gili Lankanfushi, 

Maldives 

on p83 

FIVE THINGS 

WE LEARNED 

THIS ISSUE: 

1 

Atlantis Paradise 

Island in the Bahamas 

is home to the world's 

largest open-air marine 

habitat, p10 

2 

Thanks to the new 

Maputo-Catembe 

Bridge, you can 

now reach Southern 

Mozambique in an easy 

90-minute drive (as 

opposed to a bumpy 

five-hour ride) from the 

airport, p21 

3 

If you’re travelling longhaul 

with kids, outsmart 

jetlag by booking an 

overnight or late-night 

flight, p22 

4 

Berlin is nine times 

the size of Paris, 

but home to just 3.5 

million people – that’s 

five million less than 

London, p66 

Production Manager 

Muthu Kumar 

INSPIRED BY 

Photography credits: 

Getty Images and Phocal Media 

Reproduction in whole or in part 

without written permission from 

HOT Media Publishing is strictly 

prohibited. All prices mentioned 

are correct at time of press 

but may change. HOT Media 

Publishing does not accept 

liability for omissions or errors in 

World Traveller. 

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 

COVER IMAGE 

Jumeirah Vittaveli 

Find us at… 

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com 

FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine 

INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller 

TWITTER @WT_Magazine 

5 

In Hong Kong, 

Peking duck 

spring rolls now 

come stuffed with 

healthy kale, p44 

worldtravellermagazine.com 3

Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi 

Contents 

January 2019 

29 

MALDIVES 

regulars 

8 15 22 26 84 

TRENDING 

DESTINATIONS 

From wild Tasmania 

to the dramatic 

landscapes of the Isle 

of Skye – four places to 

head to now 

GLOBETROTTER 

New Year travel goals 

to aim for; fresh places 

to stay; mood-boosting 

nature trips; and mustsee 

urban wonders 

THE KNOWLEDGE 

How to avoid jet lag 

when travelling with a 

toddler in tow – by the 

nomad parents who've 

mastered it 

COVER FEATURE 

Say hello to your Indian 

Ocean paradise... we've 

rounded up the very best 

ways to do Maldives, 

Seychelles, Mauritius 

and Sri Lanka 

SUITE DREAMS 

Bookworms need look 

no further than the 

Virginia Woolf Suite 

at University Arms, 

Cambridge 


CONTENTS 

features 

44 50 

MELTING POT 

ROADS TO 

Neon-lit skyscrapers RECOVERY 

pierce the clouds and An eye-opening drive 

big-brand names light through America’s soulstirring 

canyonlands 

up the sky – this is 

modern Hong Kong 

56 

BARKING GLAD 

Taking the reins 

on a family dogsledding 

adventure in 

northeastern Norway 

50 

US ROAD TRIP 

weekends 

64 66 

REASONS TO VISIT A LONG WEEKEND 

DUBAI CREEK 

IN BERLIN 

Check out the new What to see and do in 

wave of openings at the this achingly cool and 

historic heart of the city creative capital 

72 

STAYCATIONS 

Enjoy a well-deserved 

weekend away at these 

luxurious hotels 

78 

TRAVEL OFFERS 

Take advantage of our 

exclusive deals for 

your next adventure 

6 worldtravellermagazine.com

Inspiration. Expertly crafted. 

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the 

Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. 

The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants 

and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 

17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular 

Meeting Spaces. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

TRENDING DESTINATIONS 

Tasmania 

The island of Tasmania is witnessing a surge in popularity. This wild 

corner of Australia has beautiful (and quiet) beaches, abundant nature and 

wildlife, the purest air, cleanest water and an emerging cultural scene. Stay 

in the beautiful port capital of Hobart, an ideal base to explore, and home 

to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA). 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 See the diverse range of wacky art at world-renowned MONA 2 Bask in the beauty of the 50km-long Bay of Fires 

3 Meet and greet a Tasmanian Devil at the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo 



Porto 

Two hours north of Lisbon, Porto emerges from the banks of the Rio Douro 

like a pop-up book of colourful, historic buildings. With its fashionable 

hotels, local chefs picking up a growing constellation of Michelin stars, 

beautiful beaches and charismatic locals, January (with its mild weather 

and affordable rates) is a great time to experience all Porto has to offer. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Visit the arts block of Rua Miguel Bombarda for your fill of contemporary art and design 

2 Admire the old houses of Miragaia 3 Taste classic Portuguese cuisine by Porto-born Chef Rui Paula at DOP 



Bahamas 

Home to the ‘original’ Atlantis hotel, Atlantis Paradise Island in the Bahamas 

features the world's largest open-air marine habitat, a 141-acre water park, 

11 incredible pools, five miles of stunning beaches, and a Tom Weiskopfdesigned 

18-hole, oceanfront golf course. There’s no bad time to visit the 

Bahamas – go island hopping and marvel at its famous pink sand beaches. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Grab a conch salad and listen to rake ’n’ scrape bands at the ‘Fish Fry’ in Arawak Cay, Nassau 

2 Snorkelling at Andros Great Barrier Reef 3 Soak up the sun on pristine pink sand beaches 


Words by Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter 


Isle of Skye 

The Scottish Highlands are on the radar, boosted by rumours of the prequel 

to Game of Thrones filming on the Isle of Skye. Already a popular location for 

film and TV crews, be sure to visit the iconic stone structure known as the 

Old Man of Storr and the beautiful ‘Fairy Pool’ waterfalls. It's cold in January, 

but the weather lends the dramatic landscapes an even more magical vibe. 

HIGHLIGHTS 1 Follow guides to mountains, sea-cliffs, and canyons for a thrilling outdoor adventure 2 See an acclaimed collection 

of dinosaur fossils at the Staffin Dinosaur Museum 3 Take a boat tour to see basking sharks at sea, the world’s second largest fish 


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A NEW WATERFRONT 

DESTINATION 

AT PALM JUMEIRAH 

The Pointe at Palm Jumeirah. 

The Pointe is a vibrant new waterfront destination located at the tip of 

Palm Jumeirah with scenic views of Atlantis The Palm. Spend the day 

with family and friends strolling along the promenade, satisfying your 

taste buds with cuisine from across the world, watching the latest 

big-screen blockbusters or simply relaxing, unwinding and pampering 

yourself. Visit The Pointe and indulge in a unique experience. 

@thepointepalm | www.thepointe.ae

JANUARY 

Globetrotter 

Be informed, be inspired, be there 

HIGH SOCIETY 

Open your eyes to the mediaeval 

architecture and nature-filled walking 

trails of picturesque Sintra, a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site, which historically 

was a popular holiday spot among 

Portugal’s elite – hence the exquisite 

palaces, mansions and decorative 

gardens amid the rolling hills. Embrace 

the grandeur by staying at Tivoli Palácio 

de Seteais (pictured), an 18th-century 

Portuguese palace-turned-hotel, which 

can send you on a host of adventures, 

including a horse-drawn carriage ride 

along the charming cobblestone streets 

to taste traditional pastries at centuryold 

pâtisserie Casa Piriquita. 

World Traveller 15

GLOBETROTTER 

NEW YEAR 

TRAVEL GOALS 

Make a meaningful start to your 

year in travel by embarking on 

a holiday that gives back 

Emirates One&Only 

in Wolgan Valley, Australia 

1 

Do a digital 

detox in 

Boracay 

Break free from 

a digital rut at 

Mandala Spa & 

Resort Villas 

in central 

Philippines, 

which is 

surrounded by 

tropical gardens 

and just a short 

walk from the 

stunning beach. 

Stay in the 

Digital Detox 

Villa, where 

television and 

Wi-Fi is strictly 

banned, so you 

can unplug and 

spend your 

days nourishing 

yourself with 

healthy food and 

taking part in 

yoga classes. 

16 worldtravellermagazine.com 

2Join a writer’s 

retreat in 

Sierra Nevada 

If you plan on 

penning your own 

masterpiece soon, 

then Casa Ana’s 

creative writing 

retreat provides 

all the inspiration 

you need to get 

started. Located in 

the Sierra Nevada 

mountains of 

southern Spain, 

it holds four 

writing retreats 

each year (March, 

June, August, and 

November) so 

you can focus on 

your prose in quiet 

surroundings, 

glean advice from 

the professional 

mentors and take 

part in group 

reading and 

critiquing sessions. 

3Go wild in 

Wolgan 

Valley 

Stay at Emirates 

One&Only in 

Wolgan Valley, 

Australia, and 

you can make 

a hands-on 

contribution to 

protecting the 

valley and its 

wildlife. Join the 

conservation 

team as they 

journey into the 

Blue Mountains 

to care for 

Carne Creek and 

Wolgan River 

– important 

habitats for 

native wildlife. 

Learn about key 

issues impacting 

the local wildlife 

and take part 

in tree planting, 

wildlife surveys, 

feral animal 

monitoring and 

wombat surveys, 

among other 

activities, as 

you admire the 

scenery. 

4 

Cook up 

a storm in 

Oxfordshire 

Tucked away in 

the picturesque 

countryside, 

the Belmond 

Le Manoir aux 

Quat’Saisons 

cookery school, 

by chef Raymond 

Blanc OBE, 

will show you 

the secrets 

of creating 

show-stopping 

cuisine. There 

are courses for 

all skill levels 

and, once you’ve 

downed tools 

in the kitchen, 

you can retire 

to one of the 

manor house’s 

32 individuallydesigned 

hotel 

rooms. 

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa 

Belmond Le Manoir aux 

Quat’Saisons 

5 

Nurture 

your soul 

in Bali 

Get back in 

touch with the 

important stuff 

with the eightday/seven-night 

spiritual journey 

programme 

at Maya Ubud 

Resort & Spa. 

Your itinerary 

will include 

trips to nearby 

temples, a visit 

to a Balinese 

healer and a 

stroll through 

the verdant rice 

paddies to gain 

a deeper insight 

into the Balinese 

philosophy of 

life, with lots of 

spa pampering 

in-between.

GLOBETROTTER 

NEW HOTELS 

FRESH 

STAYS… 

1 

DUBAI 

Mandarin Oriental 

Jumeira, Dubai 

Inside scoop: This Jeffrey 

Wilkes designed property offers the 

best of both worlds, having bagged 

itself a coveted spot along Jumeirah 

Beach, placing you just steps away from 

the seafront and just a short drive away 

from icon-packed Downtown Dubai 

(in fact, it’s now the closest beachfront 

resort). Scheduled to open in Q1 2019, 

the hotel’s California-style aesthetic has 

us reaching for our overnight bag. 

The rooms and suites: You can choose 

from a city or beach view, and most 

guestrooms have a private balcony. 

We say book a room overlooking the 

pool and out towards the sea for the 

dreamiest views. 

The food: There are six restaurants 

and lounges to discover, with signature 

venues including the Warayakiya-style 

Japanese restaurant and Portuguese 

poolside eatery Tasca. 

The spa: Be pampered in the spa with a 

locally-inspired treatment and unwind 

in the dedicated hammam-style suite. 

Also nearby: It’s just five minutes to 

thriving beach community La Mer, 

where you can go to shop, grab a bite 

to eat and hurl yourself down the slides 

at Laguna Waterpark. 

2 3 4 

JOHANNESBURG 

The Houghton 

Keen golfers will be 

lured from the city 

to the ’burbs by this 

luxurious property, 

due to its proximity 

to the Jack Nicklaus 

signature golf 

course (it’s literally the front garden). 

The resort has a club-like vibe – expect 

the staff to call you by your first name 

– with plenty of ways to stay fit and 

healthy, including 7.9km of illuminated 

jogging paths. 

MAURITIUS 

C Mauritius 

We're lapping up 

the tropical vibes 

of C Mauritius in 

Palmar – the first 

opening for the 

cool new sister 

brand of Constance 

Hotels & Resorts. Warm and stylish, 

with incredible views of the lagoon and 

beach, it’s ideal for those who prefer 

an all-inclusive stay. (The hotel is in its 

soft opening stage and will be fully 

operational in March.) 

DUBAI 

Zabeel House by Jumeirah, 

The Greens 

Inspired by New 

York loft living, 

the rooms and 

apartments of this 

hip hotel are decked 

out with SMEG mini 

bar fridges, espresso machines and the 

like. Taste Pan-Asian cuisine at Ah Lah, 

dip a toe in the outdoor pool, and take 

advantage of the free bike, skateboard 

and rollerblade rental to explore the 

parks and lakes nearby. 


GLOBETROTTER 

THE POWER OF NATURE 

Doctors in Shetland can now prescribe nature to their patients to help treat stress and 

other conditions. Make sure the time you spend in nature is well topped up with a few 

days' respite at these wonderfully lush hotels around the globe… 

FAR-FLUNG 

FOREST 

Big Sur, California 

Tucked amid the forests of 

California’s rugged central 

coast is Ventana Big Sur, 

where you can watch the 

sun set over the ocean, 

explore the rolling hills and 

navigate the hiking trails 

with a local guide. Rest 

your head at its Redwood 

and Canyon Glampsites 

(only accessible by foot), 

which puts you in the thick 

of it all in a safari-style 

canvas tent, sharing stories 

by the light of the fire. 

SHORT-HAUL 

BEACH 

The Amalfi Coast 

Surrounded by luscious 

bougainvillea and lovingly 

cultivated olive groves 

and fruit orchards, Hotel 

Santa Caterina invites you 

to experience the charm 

of this classically beautiful 

destination. This historic 

villa, perched on the cliffs, 

offers direct access to a 

private stretch of sand (via 

elevators carved into the 

rock face) where you can 

unwind, soak up the sun 

and swim in the heated 

seawater pool (open from 

mid-April to October). 

ON YOUR DOORSTEP 

DESERT 

The Dubai desert 

The allure of the golden 

dunes never fades and 

the private oasis of Al 

Maha, a Luxury Collection 

Desert Resort & Spa, 

Dubai, nestled deep in the 

Dubai Desert Conservation 

Reserve, takes the breath 

away whether you’re a 

newbie or a regular. Post 

desert safari, you can gaze 

at the seemingly endless 

stretch of sand towards the 

Al Hajar Mountains from 

your suite’s private pool. 

Redwood and Canyon Glampsites, Ventana Big Sur 

Credit: Ventana Big Sur, An Alila Resort 


EXCEPTIONAL, INDIGENOUS, EXPERIENCE. 

Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming 

wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure 

with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more. 

HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION 

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 971 4 832 9900 

OR VISIT THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/ALMAHA

feeling like a VIP 

that’s Kilban’s 

marhaba effect 

The difference is the staff. So caring. 

I’m just an ordinary traveller but 

marhaba makes me feel like a VIP. 

With people like this, there is only 

one way you can go—up, up and up! 

Kilban 

Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet & 

greet services in Dubai and Bahrain. 

Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, 

marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport 

something to look forward to. 

You can also relax in style, no matter what your airline or 

class of travel, at our lounges in Dubai and Bahrain. 

Find your marhaba effect at marhabaservices.com 

meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service

GLOBETROTTER 

Louvre Abu Dhabi 

There are now regular nonstop 

flights zipping between 

Abu Dhabi and Barcelona, 

Spain, thanks to Etihad 

Airways, which launched its 

inaugural flight there at the 

end of November 2018. The 

new route (just shy of eight 

MUST-SEE SIGHTS 

Urban wonders 

The Roman Colosseum and Great 

Wall of China may already be on 

your must-see list, but how many 

of the new wave urban wonders 

are on your radar? Hilton Hotels & 

Resorts has recently unveiled the 

Seven Urban Wonders of the World, 

crowdsourced via influencers and 

rated by criteria such as architecture, 

activities available and, of course, 

Instagrammability. Here’s what made 

the cut… 

Louvre Abu Dhabi for its impressive 

installations. Sydney Opera House for 

its cultural contribution to the city and 

picture-perfect viewpoint, looking out 

towards Sydney Harbour Bridge. 

Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, for its 

foodie, flea market appeal. 

Camden Market, London, due to 

its rebellious and exciting persona. 

The Bund, Shanghai with its milelong 

stretch of waterfront and real 

life ‘museum of buildings’. Temple 

Street Night Markets, Hong Kong, 

as a vibrant showcase for culture, 

food, and craft. Albertina, Vienna, 

for its history, art galleries and 

museums. Indeed, Albertina is 

one the city’s most photographed 

buildings, commanding more than 

70,000 Instagram posts. 

TOP BUY 

The MCM Traveler Cabin 

Trolley in Visetos, Dhs6,400, 

is the perfect size for a 

long weekend away and its 

compartmentalised interior 

makes packing easy too. 

Just zip it up and go! 

ON OUR 

RADAR 

Design enthusiasts will want 

to be among the first to stay 

in the new-look NIKA Private 

Residence at Velaa Private 

Island, which has been 

reimagined by interior 

designer Patricia 

Urquiola. The beach 

retreat, which 

sleeps up to 10, has 

a natural tone with 

raffia, wood and earthy 

textiles creating warmth. 

Thanks to the opening of the 

Maputo-Catembe Bridge, 

the largest suspension bridge 

in Africa, the wilderness of 

Southern Mozambique 

just got a whole lot 

more accessible. 

Stay at White Pearl 

Resort, where ocean 

safaris, game drives 

and swimming with 

wild dolphins are among the 

adventures to be had. 

Gordon Ramsay is turning 

up the heat with the newlyopened 

Hell’s Kitchen 

at Caesars Palace 

Bluewaters 

Dubai. Serving 

up an experiential 

and immersive 

culinary experience, 

its coveted address 

on Dubai’s newest island 

destination adds to the allure. 

Fans of Four Seasons will be 

keen to read this new tome, 

which takes you behind the 

scenes by sharing the 

stories of the authentic 

service and savoir faire 

of its people, illustrated 

by Ignasi Monreal. 

Four Seasons: The 

Art of Hospitality. 

Assouline Publishing, 

assouline.com 

World Traveller 21

KNOW-HOW 

The Knowledge 

HOW TO... 

Help kids beat jet lag 

With their two-year-old in tow, AJ Ratani and Natasha Sandhir travelled to 31 countries in 

just short of nine months. Not surprisingly, they learned a lot about travelling with a toddler 

Before you travel… 

We always plan to align our son's 

sleep schedule to the destination. For 

example, in Spain, their culture is to 

enjoy dinner much later than we do 

in the US, so we’ll do the same when 

we’re there. This gives our child the 

opportunity to mix with the locals 

and taste the local cuisine, rather than 

having to eat at an empty restaurant or 

just grab a snack and go to bed at the 

same time they would back home. 

When you’re travelling somewhere 

and know the time difference will be 

significant, it’s a good idea to start 

preparing a day or so in advance. Even 

though it can make for a crazy day 

or two, depending on whether you’re 

gaining or losing hours, wake your child 

up a couple of hours’ earlier or later 

than normal and have them go to bed 

earlier or later as well. This will help with 

the transition. 

Booking the best flight time… 

If you know the flight will be long, we 

prefer to book overnight or late-night 

flights. We have found that our son will 

be tired and typically falls asleep on the 

flight and (hopefully) sleeps until our 

destination. It also allows us to get some 

sleep as well, and we aren't stressed 

out trying to entertain and manage him 

during the flight. For shorter flights, we 

typically try to book one which departs 

after 11am. We try and avoid short 

flights that start around our son’s usual 

bedtime because that can be disruptive 

to his sleep. 

When you’re flying at night… 

We typically try to replicate as much of 

what we do at home. For example, we 

will put our son into his pyjamas and 

read him his books before he goes to 

sleep. And then, when we say "good 

night", we tell him it's time to go to sleep. 

Is there a noticeable difference 

in jet lag when flying East to 

West and West to East? 

We personally prefer flying East to West 

over West to East. That's because when 

you fly West you gain hours and hence 

can get to your destination during the 

day. This means the family just needs to 

stay up until the evening to lessen the 

effects of jet lag. You are so exhausted 

having stayed up that you will go to 

sleep easily and adapt to the time 

change much easier. 

If your plans fail, just go with 

the flow… 

If all of what you’ve planned for goes 

out of the window, then you simply 

must go with the flow regardless of 

what happens. As the saying goes, kids 

will be kids, so try not to get frustrated 

if your child can't go to sleep at an ideal 

time. Your best bet in that situation is to 

stay up with them and let them adjust 

over two or three days. To give you an 

example, when we flew from Dubai to 

Beijing we arrived around midnight, 

but it was only 8pm in Dubai. Our son 

wasn’t tired at all and it was useless 

to try to force him to go to sleep – we 

knew from experience that it will just 

end up in frustration for us all. Instead, 

we stayed up and went to bed when he 

was tired. For us, that meant going to 

sleep at 4am. However, we made sure to 

wake up by 11am, to start our day. Yes, 

we were tired, but it meant everyone 

would go to sleep earlier that night. 

Within a day or two, we had all adjusted, 

our child included. 

You can read more about AJ and 

Natasha’s globetrotting adventures 

at 2idiotstravel.com 


Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. 

Renew for the journey ahead. 

A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient 

healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest. 

The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, one Dead Sea treatment room boasting 

the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two Private Luxury Spa Suites. 

Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from 

the results-oriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion. 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE 

T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

The view from 

Jumeirah Al 

Naseem 

STAY DIFFERENT WITH JUMEIRAH 

Beach breaks 

It's time to hit the sand! Let our handy guide point 

you towards your perfect beach holiday in Dubai 

You could just find a resort by the sea, or you 

could stay at a true icon of luxury… 

Frequently voted one of the world's most luxurious hotels, 

the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab commands attention along 

Dubai's coast. And while it's a given that you'll want to visit 

the architectural gem while on a trip – if only to admire it up 

close – staying there is something every discerning traveller 

should vow to do at least once in his or her life. Ask anyone who 

has been lucky enough to check in and they'll admit that the 

experience is impressive from the very start. Upon arrival, you 

are discreetly escorted to your duplex suite which, due to the 

property's smart design, has wow views of your unique location 

and beyond through floor-to-ceiling windows. The beach 

experience is as luxurious as you'd expect, and at the exclusive 

Burj Al Arab Terrace you'll find Scape restaurant (specialising 

in Californian-style cuisine), a dreamy infinity pool and cosy 

cabanas. Of course, there's plenty more at the property to 

entice, including the acclaimed Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara, 

and a chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce to ferry you around town. 

You could just stay on the beach, or upgrade to a 

place that has its own luxury beach club… 

Unwind in your very own pocket of beach bliss at Jumeirah 

Al Naseem, the latest property to open at Madinat Jumeirah. 

All the rooms and suites have postcard-worthy views towards 

Burj Al Arab or the Arabian Gulf, and expansive terraces that 

edge the sandy beach. But the best bit, in our opinion, is the 

lure of Summersalt beach club, which has launched a new 

Japanese fusion pop-up concept, Umi Shio, created by Japanese/ 

Argentinian chef Cristian Goya. Blending the artful craft of 

Japanese cooking, with the delicious flavours of South America, 

dishes are designed for sharing and feature authentic Japanese 

and South American ingredients such as miso, yuzu, truffle 

and lime in abundance. Open for lunch and dinner, it also 

serves a delicious selection of Japanese-inspired drinks to sip 

while admiring the view. And if you thought you'd reached peak 

relaxation throughout the day, bear in mind that Talise Spa is 

just a hop, skip and a buggy ride away. We rate the Hot Sea Shell 

massage, which helps banish tension and stress. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X JUMEIRAH 

You could just stay at a hotel with spacious rooms, or 

you could stay somewhere with Royal Residences… 

While we're spoilt for choice when it comes to spacious suites in 

Dubai, there comes a time in life when you want to squirrel yourself 

away from the rest. If you're not keen on seeing another soul while 

you're away (aside from your nearest and dearest), then a private 

villa holiday fits the bill nicely. The Jumeirah Zabeel Saray Royal 

Residences set the bar high when it comes to exclusive beach 

breaks. Set amid lush tropical gardens and a dreamy lagoon pool, 

the Ottoman era inspired villas have their own private sun terrace, 

private swimming pool and stretch of soft sand. You'll also have 

access to your own private garden while a fully-equipped kitchen 

means you don't have to decamp to a restaurant – simply call upon 

the personalised butler service to take care of all your needs. 

You could just stay at a family hotel, or you could stay 

at a family hotel that's fresh from a stylish refurb… 

Back on the scene following a six month refurbishment, and 

celebrating its 20 th anniversary this year, Jumeirah Beach Hotel 

is a firm favourite among families. Throw open the doors of your 

family Garden Suite and step out onto the private terrace for some 

salty sea air, splash around in the swimming pools, build sandcastles 

with the kids, and swap stories over dinner at Pan Asian restaurant 

Beachcombers. What's more, all guests get complimentary access to 

Wild Wadi Waterpark. 

To find out more, visit jumeirah.com 

Burj Al Arab Terrace 

SHOP AT SOUK 

MADINAT JUMEIRAH 

For an Arabian bazaar 

style shopping experience, 

browse the barrows and 

stalls of Souk Madinat 

Jumeirah. Each is 

brimming with treasured 

mementoes that deserve a 

space in your suitcase. 

MADINAT JUMEIRAH 

VIA ABRA 

Soak up the beauty of 

Madinat Jumeirah and 

see the authentic Arabian 

architecture from all 

angles by setting off on a 

20-min abra tour along the 

meandering waterways. 

Camera at the ready! 

PAI THAI 

First-timers are sure 

to be impressed by this 

award-winning Thai 

restaurant. A short abra 

ride delivers you to this 

ambient venue, where 

a feast of aromatic 

dishes await. 

Madinat Jumeirah 

YOUR 

FIRST TIME 

DO 

SEE 

EAT 

BEEN THERE, 

DONE THAT 

EMBARK ON A DEEP- 

SEA FISHING TRIP 

Try something new on 

the water thanks to the 

dedicated Water Sports 

Centre – the thrilling deepsea 

fishing excursion is 

sure to take you out of 

your comfort zone for a 

trip to remember. 

A THEATRE SHOW 

With an impressive line-up 

of live performances, from 

foot-tapping musicals to 

ballet, Madinat Theatre 

is a draw card for fans of 

the arts. Showing in Jan 

is Blackouts & Charles 

Nguela (31 Jan) – a hi-tech 

acrobatics, dance and 

illusions show. 

SHIMMERS 

Seasoned visitors 

can make the most of 

the winter weather at 

Shimmers. Savour bites 

by Greek Chef Yiannis 

Katsikas, and sink your 

toes into the sand while 

admiring the never-getsold 

view of Burj Al Arab. 

FULL MOON YOGA 

AT TALISE SPA 

The full moon is said to 

have a powerful effect on 

our mood and energy. Feel 

the benefits by taking part 

in this 90-minute yoga 

session under the stars, 

and stretch to a soundtrack 

of waves lapping the shore. 

JUMEIRAH AL QASR 

You couldn't wish for a 

better introduction to 

warm Arabian hospitality 

than at this luxurious hotel, 

which is designed in the 

style of a Sheikh’s summer 

residence. The rooms are 

newly refurbished – we rate 

the Arabian Deluxe suites, 

which fit up to two adults 

and two children, with 

scenic views of the gardens 

and waterways. 

SPA 

SLEEP 

GET HOLLYWOOD- 

STYLE HEALTHCARE 

Need more than a 

massage? Visit the DNA 

Health Clinic at Talise 

Spa to explore your 

DNA profile and genetic 

blueprint for tips on 

slowing down the ageing 

process, along with bioaesthetic 

treatments to 

help you look your best. 

JUMEIRAH DAR 

AL MASYAF 

These summerhouses can 

go under the radar, but 

their tranquil setting amid 

the gardens, waterways, 

and private beach make 

them a gem if you're 

seeking something a bit 

different from the norm. 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 


IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN 

Hello paradise! 

Each one idyllic but uniquely 

charmed, the Indian Ocean’s 

big hitting holiday islands 

make for the ultimate escape, 

if only for a long weekend 

(although it's a fact you’ll wish 

for more when it’s time to 

pack your bags). But which of 

these islands is ideal for you? 

Awash with history and 

with outdoor adventures 

on tap, Mauritius has 

much to complement its 

spectacular scenery, while 

in the Seychelles you can 

hike lush trails and snorkel 

over colourful sea life in 

the space of an afternoon. 

Culturally vibrant Sri Lanka, 

offers abundant UNESCO 

World Heritage sights and 

an ever-expanding list of 

luxury resort hotels. And 

then there’s the Maldives, 

home to the over-the-water 

villa, sugar-white beaches 

and sunsets so beautiful your 

heart melts. 

Across the next 10 pages 

we’re going to take you to 

paradise. What better way to 

ease yourself into 2019? 


CREATE 

SPECIAL 

MOMENTS 

WITH US. 

Standing tall in the heart of 

Dubai Marina, featuring 

incomparable panoramic views 

of the city, combine the best 

of all worlds with luxurious 

accommodation, three 

contemporary dining 

destinations and a blissful 

caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa. 

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES 

KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET 

DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE 

T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM 

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites 

@marriottharbour


Maldives 

I've heard that some resorts are more than an hour's seaplane 

flight from Malé. Which ones are close to the airport? 

Despite being a mere four-hour flight from the 

UAE, some Maldives resorts are remote enough 

to require a further scheduled domestic flight 

or, more commonly, a seaplane taxi, which will 

likely stop at one or two other resorts along the 

way to your own island escape. This can mean 

your actual travel time clocks in at over five 

hours or more, so if you’re intent on squeezing 

in every possible moment in paradise, you 

should consider a resort that doesn’t require 

you to take to the sky once more. One such 

place is Jumeirah Vittaveli, which lies atop the 

ocean only 20 minutes (via a transfer aboard 

a motorised catamaran) from the airport. This 

is a place that adds a splash of wow factor to 

many of its offerings: the first ice rink in the 

Maldives and the newly opened Private Ocean 

Retreats with Slide (yes, a slide, which winds 

down from the upstairs balcony into the ocean). 

Also just 20 minutes in a speedboat from Velana 

International Airport (commonly referred to as 

Malé International Airport) is Gili Lankanfushi. 

A self-styled eco resort, the dwellings here 

were built from sustainably-sourced materials 

while not compromising on luxury. Of them, 

our firm favourites are the Crusoe Residences: 

two-storey, over-the-water villas stood a 

brief boat ride away from the main island. 

Having recently removed the wraps from a 

two-year renovation, Baros Maldives is ripe for 

rediscovery – and only 20 minutes by speedboat 

from the airport. Enhancements to this muchloved 

Maldives stalwart (it welcomed its first 

guests in 1973) include the all-new Baros Suites, 

just two standalone villas which come with huge 

private pools and stunning sea views as standard. 



I want to stay somewhere brand spanking new. 

Which places have just opened? 

Kudadoo Maldives 

Comprising only 15 villas – all of them on stilts 

over the ocean – the feeling of exclusivity at 

this all-inclusive resort extends to being able 

to have Dream Island, a neighbouring slice of 

sand owned by Kudadoo, all to yourself. 

LUX* North Malé Atoll 

Taking bookings now for a February 1 

opening is LUX* North Malé Atoll. Out go the 

thatched-roof villas common to resorts and 

in come white-washed penthouses. Swish. 

Kudadoo Maldives 


Water babies take note: Meaning 'Secret 

Water Island', Sirru Fen Fushi boasts one of 

the largest lagoons in the Maldives and a 

huge, 200-metre-long swimming pool. Rest 

assured it won't stay secret for long. 

Joali Maldives 

Why slum it in a villa that has only one 

swimming pool when you can have two? 

Here, two-pool villas are available on the 

beach or over the water. 


OUR FAVOURITE 

'ONLY IN THE 

MALDIVES' MOMENTS 

LUX* North Malé Atoll 

Joali Maldives 

1Snorkelling or diving 

are the obvious ways 

to familarise yourself 

with Maldives' enchanting 

underwater world, but there 

are a few more unique ways 

to do so. It's home to the 

world's first underwater spa 

(Huvafen Fushi Maldives); 

underwater bungalow 

(Conrad Maldives Rangali 

Island); and underwater 

nightclub (Niyama Private 

Islands Maldives). 

2Dining is a big deal in 

Maldives, with some 

resorts even flying in 

Michelin-starred chefs to 

rustle up one-night-only 

dinners for guests. Yet a 

dining experience you'll 

cherish for reasons beyond 

what's on your plate is a 

sandbank dinner – you'll 

dine by flaming torches on 

a private slice of sand just 

for two. Heart melting. 

3Dolphins aren't 

known for being shy, 

but in Maldives they 

go beyond offering the 

odd tantalising glimpse 

to staging a fully-fledged, 

almost choreographed 

show at sea. Myriad resorts 

lay on a sunset dolphin 

cruise and it's an absolute 

must-do. 



Our favourite... jaw-dropping dwellings 

Be the host with the most by inviting your 

entire crew to stay in the eight-bedroom The 

Great Beach Residence – the largest of the 

eight Amilla Beach Villa Residences at Amilla 

Fushi. This two-story Miami-style abode has 

a huge living room overlooking the beach and 

ocean, two pools and sun terraces, a kitchen 

stocked with all your favourite food, and your 

very own beach buggy and fleet of bikes 

parked outside for exploring the island. 

If Velaa Private Island exudes exclusivity, 

its Romantic Pool Residence defines it. 

Suspended above a lagoon, this one-bedroom 

villa, replete with a spa and slice of cottonsoft 

beach, is spied upon by the sunset only, 

The impeccably designed villas at Park Hyatt 

Maldives Hadahaa (pictured) draw your eye in 

an instant, but its over-the-ocean villas (14 in 

all) take your breath away too. You'll love being 

sprawled in their semi-submerged sun bed before 

taking the short step into the fish-filled lagoon. 

Away from the ocean, the sunrisefacing 

Jungle Reserve at Soneva Fushi 

plots you amid dense greenery. But don't 

worry should they forget you're there – it 

houses a full kitchen, cellar, library, spa 

suite, gym, sauna and steam facilities. 

Of a similar size is the lavish Royal Residence 

at JA Manafaru. Accessed via a pond-lined 

courtyard, the residence's two-storey interior 

houses three bedrooms, a spa room, and a 

first-floor living room; an elevated position 

to make the most of stunning sea views by 

day and the star-filled sky at night, for which 

the in-room telescope comes in handy. 

Outside, two pools fringed by greenery and 

sun-kissed decking lead out to a private 

stretch of beach, for your feet only. 



Our 

favourite... 

resorts for 

families 

The iconic One&Only 

Reethi Rah (pictured 

left) resort caters as 

well as anywhere in the 

Maldives to both kids and 

adults alike, with dedicated clubs 

for all ages (four-nine; nine-11, and 

12 and up) manned by certified (and 

fun) counsellors. Not only does the 

kids' club at Kanuhura offer ageappropriate 

activities to two groups, 

but if your kids are aged below 12 and 

share your room, they stay and eat for 

free. Looking for a social spot? The 

retro-fun vibes at Finolhu make it a 

great choice for young families (onebedroom 

villas fit two adults and two 

children under 12), with the Oceaneers’ 

Club for tots to teens ensuring little 

islanders have a blast. 

I’m worried we’ll get bored staying on the same 

island. How can I see more of the Maldives? 

For a start, unless you're averse to 

just about every type of watersport 

imaginable, or tire quickly of seeing 

stunning sunsets, star-filled skies and 

frolicking dolphins, it's unlikely you'll 

get bored. However, there are options 

available that allow you to see far 

beyond one resort and to explore barely 

touched Maldivian atolls. Soneva in 

Aqua (pictured) is one such luxury, a 

two-bedroom 23-metre yacht that's 

yours to share with a dedicated (to you 

only) team comprised of a captain, sous 

chef, Mr. Friday (that'll be your personal 

butler) and, on request, a dive master, 

massage therapist and astronomer. 

Another indulgence of note is the 

glass-bottomed spa tub in the master 

bedroom that offers a glimpse of the 

vibrant marine life below. 

If you love to dive (and who 

wouldn't in the Maldives' crystalline 

and temperate waters?) then the 

Four Seasons Explorer should make 

it to the top of your wish list. It's a 

three-deck catamaran that offers up 

to 22 guests an all-inclusive, three-, 

four- or seven-night cruise through a 

UNESCO biosphere reserve. Daily diving 

schedules are planned for you by a 

vastly experienced onboard dive team, 

and include visits to wrecks and an 

after-dark voyage into moonlit waters. 

I want a romantic break 

without the kids (sorry, 

kids). Where do you 

recommend? 

The boutique Milaidhoo Island offers 

not only heart-tugging scenery but 

does so with nary a toddler in sight – the 

booking policy here allows for children 

aged nine or over only. 

Then there's Hurawalhi Island Resort, 

which is for adults only and houses 

Insta-worthy features like the world's 

largest all-glass undersea restaurant 

(pictured). if you don't fall in love all 

over again in these stunning surrounds, 

it's probably time to get the lawyers in... 


Seychelles 

BEST FOR... feeling you have paradise all to yourself 

The aptly named JA Enchanted Island Resort has a mere 10 

Creole-style colonial villas spread across a beautiful private 

island just off the coast of Mahé. However, if that sounds like 

nine too many, you can book the entire island for yourself 

(and invite up to 24 fortunate friends). Thinking your budget 

probably won't stretch that far? One-of-kind villas hidden 

amongst the greenery are the Enchanted Signature Villa (two 

bedrooms and direct access to the beach) and the bigger still 

Owner's Signature Villa (two bedrooms and direct access to 

not one but three beaches). Mesmerizing views of the brilliant 

blue sea accompany each dip in your private infinity pool. 



Opposite: JA Enchanted 

Island Resort 

This page, clockwise from 

top: Anse Georgette; North 

Island; sign leading the way 

to Aldabra giant tortoises 

BEST FOR... walking among 

giant tortoises 

A helicopter transfer from 

Mahé, Fregate Island 

Private is home to just 16 

discreet villas but some 

2,000 or more Aldabra 

giant tortoises, which roam 

free across the forestthick 

island. A resident 

conservationist will teach 

your kids how to make 

them move by scratching 

their backs. The island's 

myriad other natural 

charms extend to organic 

ingredients grown in the 

resort's own plantation 

and used extensively in 

inventive menus. 

BEST FOR... a royally 

good honeymoon 

British royals William and 

Kate lost their hearts to 

the Seychelles on more 

than one occasion, heading 

there first for a holiday 

at the remote Desroches 

Island (now the Four 

Seasons Resort Seychelles 

at Desroches Island) and 

again for their honeymoon, 

swapping islands for the 

stunning, 11-villa North 

Island. Hollywood royalty 

followed suit – George 

Clooney and his wife Amal 

celebrated their nuptials at 

the same resort. 

BEST FOR... beautiful 

beaches that rival any 

in the world 

Those iconic images of 

outsized granite boulders 

set on golden sands? 

That'll be Praslin, the 

second largest island in the 

Seychelles, but number one 

when it comes to the best 

beaches. You can debate 

long and hard about which 

of Anse Georgette or Anse 

Lazio beaches is the single 

best (both are routinely 

voted into the world's top 

10), but we say Anse Lazio 

for snorkelling and Anse 

Georgette for sunsets. 


Mauritius 

The west and south west 

Why stay here? 

The verdant valleys and pristine swathes 

of beach make this region the island's 

most diverse and, in our opinion, its 

most scenic. In line with the topography, 

the tourist attractions range from the 

Chamarel Coloured Earths (a natural 

phenomenon comprised of seven 

distinctly coloured sands) to swimming 

with wild dolphins. 

In the history books 

The storied mountain of Le Morne 

(fleeing slaves scaled it to build small 

settlements, before tragically choosing 

to jump when faced with recapture) 

is a UNESCO World Heritage Site 

and a defining symbol of the island. 

Off limits to hikers for decades, 

you can now ascend it as part of a 

guided hike operated by Yanature 

(trekkingmauritius.com). The soulstirring 

views from the top are your 

instant reward. 

Get active 

The steady winds that blow in this 

direction make for excellent kitesurfing 

conditions. Ion Club (ion-club.net) 

rents out the necessary equipment and 

offers a complete kitesurfing tuition 

programme to beginners. 

Where to stay 

In the shadow of Le Morne is the 

wonderful LUX* Le Morne, whose allinclusive 

packages help take the stress 

out of having to decide between luxury 

temptations aplenty. 


Main image: Monkeys 

at Black River Gorges 

National Park 

Inset: Food at Shanti 

Maurice 

The north and 

north west 


Home to Grand Baie, the island's 

tourism has a bounty of hotels, beautiful 

(although often crowded) beaches and 

entertainment, if you like your beach 

breaks served with a little bit of buzz, 

this is the part of the island for you. 


When in Mauritius, you'll see abundant 

references to the legend of Paul and 

Virginie, the island's own Romeo 

and Juliet, whose love fell victim to a 

shipwreck, which crashed against rocks 

on the north end of Mauritius, drowning 

Virginie and leaving Paul to die of grief. 

Get active 

The north has a monopoly on the 

island's best dive spots, which range in 

depth from 13 metres onwards. If you've 

packed your underwater camera, the 

Grand Baie Aquarium site is chockful 

of colourful sea life. 

Where to stay 

The first boutique hotel on the island, 

20 Degrees Sud benefits from a 

sheltered private beach and a tranquil 

setting within a coconut grove. 


The east and north east 


This is arguably where you'll find the 

island's most celebrated stretches 

of beach, hugging the shoreline or 

encircling entire, tiny off-shore islands 

– yours to visit for the day by boat. It's 

also home to a clutch of superb hotels. 


A 2017 study revealed that sand grains 

taken from a beach on the east of 

Mauritius were far older than than the 

island itself and evidence of a drowned 

'microcontinent', which scientists have 

since termed a prehistoric Atlantis. 

Get active 

For a bird's eye view of the beauty 

Mother Nature has mapped out below, 

head into the clear blue skies strapped 

to a parasail. Viator (viator.com) will get 

you up, up and away... 

Where to stay 

This is where the island's Grand Dame, 

the recently refurbished One&Only 

Le Saint Géran, stands proud on a 

private peninusla. As it was before its 

temporary closure, the service here is 

practically faultless. 

The south and 

south east 


The south's landscape is defined by its 

many sugar cane fields and colonialstyle 

plantation houses. It's less 

developed and the beaches can be a 

touch more dramatic than elsewhere: 

think raging waves crashing into rocks. 


The fishing village of Mahébourg here 

bore witness to the only Napoleonic 

naval victory over the English in 1810, 

a victory now inscribed on Paris' Arc 

de Triomphe. 

Get active 

A great way to explore the south is from 

the saddle of a quad bike. Quad Biking 

Mauritius (quadbikingmauritius.com) 

offers multiple tours across the rugged 

terrain, one of which includes stopping 

off to swim in a waterfall. 

Where to stay 

Set aside the rolling waves. Shanti 

Maurice Resort & Spa has the 

supersized (and super private) Luxury 

Double Suite Pool Villa, which sleeps 

four adults and four children. 


I WANT TO... STAY SOMEWHERE STYLISH 

Tri didn't need to look beyond the natural to 

create its luxury design hotel. Crafted entirely 

from recycled jak wood and local granite, the 

villas here also feature 'living' roofs, planted 

with native creepers, water grass, and dwarf 

bamboo. The pick of them is the secluded 

Lake Villa, so named for affording guests 

uninterrupted views over Lake Koggala. 

Sri Lanka 



I WANT TO... EXPLORE 

WORLD HERITAGE SIGHTS 

Sri Lanka has more than its 

fair share of these (eight 

in all) but unless you can 

enjoy a leisurely two weeks 

driving slow roads to see 

each one, you're best to 

concentrate your efforts 

on the Ancient City of 

Sigiriya, home to a dramatic 

rock fortress atop which 

are the remains, colourful 

frescoes among them, of a 

palace constructed by King 

Kasyapa in the 5th century. 

From here, the Ancient City 

of Polonnaruwa and The 

Dambulla Cave Temple are 

within easy reach. 

I WANT TO... GO WILD 

Sri Lanka has the world's 

largest concentration of 

elephants, the epicentre of 

which is Minneriya National 

Park, northeast of Colombo, 

where they gather on the 

banks of the Minneriya & 

Kaudulla Reservoir. Jeep 

safari tours of the park are 

available daily. 

Clockwise from 

top: Sigiriya; mother 

elephant tending 

to her offspring; 

Anantara Peace 

Haven Tangalle 

Resort; tea pickers 

gather leaves 

I WANT TO... HIT THE SPA 

FOR A WHOLE WEEKEND 

Head, then, to Anantara 

Kalutara, where in a doublestorey 

tropical spa you 

can try a unique Ceylontea 

inspired treatment. 

Double down on the bliss 

by transferring to sister 

property Anantara Peace 

Haven Tangalle Resort, on 

Sri Lanka's south coast. Its 

award-winning serene spa 

offers bespoke treatments. 

I WANT TO... TRAVERSE 

TEA PLANTATIONS 

Ceylon Tea Trails is a 

luxurious 'tea' bungalow 

resort (each bungalow has 

its own chef and butler) 

plotted amid tea-blanketed 

hills and gardens, which a 

resident 'tea planter' will 

lead you through. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA 

Find your balance 

Make a fresh start on a wellness retreat at 

this private pool villa resort in Salalah and enjoy 

a transformative travel experience 


Stretch out 

with yoga on 

the beach 

If you’ve pledged to improve your health this year, enrolling 

in a wellness retreat may give you the nudge you need to 

get started, and we know a great option on your doorstep. 

Nestled between a private beach and a freshwater lagoon, 

Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is offering health buffs 

an à la carte style retreat experience in serene surroundings. 

What’s more, the Balance Wellness by Anantara programme 

can be tailored to suit your individual needs, so whether you 

want to clean up your diet or build more activity into your 

day, you can feel confident that you are getting the most 

from the experience. Upon arrival, you’ll sit down with a 

consultant to discuss your goals. Depending on how long 

you’re staying (there are three-, five- and seven-day packages 

available), you’ll be asked to pick from a mood-boosting 

combination of nourishing meals, energy-pumping activities 

and rejuvenating spa therapies, and your wellbeing expert 

will draw you up a bespoke itinerary. 

NOURISH YOURSELF 

Staying full-board is part of the package, taking the 

stress out of planning what to eat and where. Sit down to 

a nourishing menu of healthy food created by renowned 

Italian vegan chef Valeria Agnelutto. Designed to detoxify 

and energise the system while delivering maximum 

flavour, dishes include Italian pasta e fagioli and chickpea 

burgers with rosemary and parsley and veggie mayo. The 

three-course meals also include delicious starters such 

as avocado tartare with cucumber and dates and raw 

tiramisu for dessert. Plus, each dish comes with a detailed 

nutritional breakdown and is accompanied by vitaminpacked 

raw juice. 

The chickpea 

burger is a 

healthy choice 

Kick-start the 

detox process in 

the hammam 

head, to harmonise the entire body. If you're staying for the 

long haul, you’ll also be able to take advantage of additional 

discounts on all spa and wellness treatments. 

BE PAMPERED 

Aside from your prescribed pampering treatments, a 

highlight of the wellness programme is experiencing the 

resort’s luxury hammam. Drawing on centuries of Arabian 

wellness, the ancient ritual starts with a muscle-relaxing 

steam bath in preparation for a black soap cleansing and 

kessa mitt exfoliation to sweep away impurities. Once you’re 

steamed and scrubbed, a Moroccan rhassoul treatment richly 

nourishes and rehydrates, leaving the skin silky soft. Other 

healing therapies to try include the kundalini massage and 

shirodhara: a unique ayurvedic therapy focusing on the 

FEEL MORE ENERGISED 

Get your body moving with activity sessions that beat 

boring gym workouts into submission. Take part in yoga 

and go hiking in the beautiful mountainous coast of Salalah 

to get your circulation pumping and discover a renewed 

passion for being in the great outdoors. Your consultant 

can advise on easy ways to build more activity into your 

everyday life once you're back at home so you’ll continue to 

feel the effects for months to come. 

To find out more, call +968 2322 8222 or visit anantara.com 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

HONG KONG p44 

US ROAD TRIP p50 

NORWAY p56 

Postcards 

Stories from journeys 

far and wide 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

The night market on 

Temple Street 


World Traveller

HONG KONG 

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 

Neon-lit skyscrapers pierce 

the clouds and big-brand 

names light up the sky 

— modern Hong Kong is 

a powerhouse. But just 

as potent is its passion 

for tradition: local young 

designers ply past skills and 

hip new chefs use ancient 

ingredients. It’s a ravishing 

recipe of old and new. 

Nick Redman tucks in 

In Hong Kong, ducking off a steep 

side street in SoHo around midnight, 

through an unmarked door, I fell 

headlong for the Old Man. 

Looking like Grandma’s living room, 

the Old Man is one of the coolest spots 

in Hong Kong right now — according 

to the trendy couple beside me. It 

certainly felt pretty special, from 

the drinks, to the design, to a giant 

mosaic of Ernest Hemingway’s hirsute 

chops on high. Chatter swirled about 

tropical-print stools as I scanned the 

novel menu, its strange concoctions 

each a salute to his stories. 

Taxiing to my hotel in the muggy 

early morning, I could see why Honkers 

has fallen for Hemingway. What a 

fitting figurehead for the city, both 

man and metropolis so transient and 

restless, creative and repressed. 

A marriage made in heaven (after 

all, he loved the city the one time he 

came). Hong Kong’s certainly had its 

relationship issues: a British colony 

relinquished in 1997, now under China’s 

wing. Western no more, yet not mainland 

Eastern either. Has anything homegrown 

sprouted in between? In pictures it 

looks possibly more thrusting than ever, 

worldly and confident; a stunning pinup. 

Having fancied a close-up for a long 

time, I boarded a plane and booked into 

Hong Kong’s great grande-dame hotel, 

the Peninsula. (It turned out Hemingway 

had been here, too — in ’41, with his 

war-journo bride, Martha Gellhorn, 

on a ‘honeymoon’, which he spent 

cavorting, while she was off reporting.) 

The hotel was 90 years old last year, an 

icon of the Kowloon district, standing 

tall and timeless, while all around the 

city works, frantically, on its identity. 

Glamorous new hotels fizz into the sky 

like fireworks in this town, most recently 

(at a respectful remove east from the 

Peninsula’s patch) the Kerry, resplendent 

with Turkish onyx interiors in liquid 

sweeps, mimicking the harbour before it; 

and the Murray, an update of a ’60s office 

block in Central, still with the iconic 

recessed windows, plus a roof lounge, 

Popinjays, overlooking jungly slopes, 

named for the parrots that fly around it. 

The Peninsula itself was reassuringly 

sumptuous, a comfort blanket in a 

territory figuring out the future, made 

to cocoon first-timers like me. Under 


HONG KONG 

chandeliers, potted ferns stood about like 

‘ 

plumed Tiller Girls. Guests contemplated 

I 

the towering scones of its afternoon tea 

in the lobby. In its ’50s French restaurant, 

Gaddi’s, I raised a glass to Gable, Gardner 

and stars who’d been here before me. And 

after dark I got the bigger picture, in the 

top-floor lounge, Felix, a ’90s-retro zone 

of gauzy Starck drapes and Barbie-ish 

furniture. Across the waters of Victoria 

Harbour, lit by the fireflies of red junks 

on tourist duty, was Hong Kong Island, 

a nightscape of skyscrapers pushing 

kaleidoscopic product placements on the 

horizon. Panasonic, Prudential, Bank of 

America, Merrill Lynch. I felt like a transit 

passenger in the Lost Land of Brands. 

In search of a more local impression, the 

next day I took the Star Ferry from Kowloon 

to the island for the funicular railway to the 

Peak. It felt touristy (I became an expert on 

Melbourne, eavesdropping on the sevenminute 

ascent), but the city explained itself 

more clearly as I saw last night’s view back 

over the waters. Kowloon lay north, the 

Peninsula the size of a Monopoly piece; 

the New Territories stretched beyond, 

fading, somewhere, to China. Below lay the 

view known from postcards: the towers 

of commerce splayed by perspective, like 

monster shocks of quartz. It was sensational 

but remote. And robotic on closer 

inspection — Hong Kong seemed to move 

without much actual human motion: on 

escalators under the plinths of skyscrapers; 

along travelators through endless malls; 

or in its trademark red-and-white taxis, 

pouring across flyovers, like torrents of tiny 

kiddies’ sweets off a factory conveyor belt. 

I needed to find my feet — which is 

where Wanderlust Walks stepped in. Alex, 

the German expat behind it, recommended 

a ‘street art’ stroll as the way to taste 

home-grown Hong Kong — and what she 

didn’t know about the city’s emerging 

talent you could daub on a dumpling. 

Around Tai Ping Shan, a tram ride 

from Central, the street walls were a blast 

of psychedelic cartoons, the fruit of the 

city’s big spray-can art festival, HK Walls. 

We wandered alleys, past a Bruce Lee 

mural here (signed Xeva, South Korea), 

a scarlet strumpet there (Neil Wang, 

Hong Kong). A challenge to authority? 

INHALED A HONG 

KONG THAT COULD 

ONLY HAVE SEEPED 

UP THROUGH THE 

CRACKS BETWEEN 

EAST AND WEST 

’ 

A boredom with bland brands? Whatever, 

it was potent. I inhaled a Hong Kong 

that could only have seeped up through 

the cracks between East and West. 

Down the road, English chef Jason 

Atherton had scented local promise, 

planting his restaurant, Aberdeen Street 

Social, in a striking piece of retro Hong 

Kong architecture called PMQ. I admired 

its modernism, pale in the gentle late sun, 

as Chinese banyans climbed the perimeter 

wall and diners lounged on the terrace. 

A rare survivor in this pull-it-down 

town, it was built in 1951 as quarters for 

young married police officers, and spared 

demolition when that closed in 2000. 

It’s a head-turner, the living spaces now 

brimming with cafes and pop-ups. 

One stood out, stacked with nostalgicwitty 

ceramics and camp-as-candy ‘Suzie 

Wong Night Club’-logo bags — the calling 

card of Goods of Desire, an indigenous 

star in the international city firmament 

of Prada and Versace. Douglas Young, the 

Hong Konger behind the brand, works 

in an atelier across town, in Kowloon’s 

Sham Shui Po — Garment District. The 

premises are easy to find, in the Jockey 

Club Creative Arts Centre — an artists’ 

colony in a converted nine-storey factory 

(you can sign up for a nose around). He 

was a chatty dynamo, his mission — to 

make the Hong Kong he loves tangible, 

what with Asian traditions ‘on the verge 

of extinction in a western-centric world’. 

‘There’s still relatively little study 

on Hong Kong culture — books, 

movies, music,’ he said. ‘I want to make 

things that address that imbalance, 

that young people want to buy.’ 

I adored his Angry Cat toys sticking up 


This page, clockwise 

from top left: Neon 

signs light the night 

sky; rainbow village 

basketball court; 

an office buiding's 

illuminated facade; 

Popinjay's at The 

Murray Hotel 

worldtravellermagazine.com World Traveller 47

XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

The Peninsula Hong Kong 


HONG KONG 

a middle finger — spoofing the classic 

golden waving lucky cats that spell good 

fortune in Asia. I had a wander around 

Sham Shui Po and the streets he strolls 

for inspiration. It was intoxicating, all 

gaudy tropical prints on cheap fabric 

rolls, shabby shopfronts shedding 

wizened lettering, and grimy Art Deco 

curves of wilting apartment balconies. 

Sham Shui Po was a whiff of a Hong 

Kong loved by generations, where street 

food adhered to methods decades old: 

at Kung Wo Beancurd Factory a noisy 

antediluvian drum of gloop whirled 

alarmingly, but the tofu pud was a silky 

treat, made to a recipe passed down 

through the business. I copied the 

regulars and stuck my face silently into 

my bowl, spooning up sweetness as 

ethereal as a cloud. By evening, south 

of Sham Shui Po, I was with the crowds 

of Mong Kok area; among love’s youngdreams 

feeding each other tubs of fish 

balls slathered in chilli sauce bought 

from kiosks lining the pavements. 

With prices requiring mere shrapnelchange, 

there was no need to know 

what you were ordering. Just point 

and devour (or discreetly discard). 

I knew where to take my brunch 

cravings next morning: to Kennedy 

Town, 25 minutes by tram from Central, 

on the western tip of Hong Kong Island 

where giddy-tall tenements meet 

tropic-blue sea. Here, tradition seemed 

content to co-exist with gentrification, 

evidenced by rents trailing many 

zeroes in estate-agent windows, the 

honeypot Lebanese-owned cafe, Catch, 

doing avocado every which way. 

I gave that one a miss for Cheung 

Heung, a cha chaan teng, or classic 

Hong Kong tea house. ‘It has been 

here at least 50 years,’ said Kevin, 

grandson of the owners, as I 

snapped the Formica fittings. 

The coconut tarts were hanging 

around for seconds, stuffed into paper 

bags for a patient fan base, queueing. 

‘Hong Kong original!’ said the man at the 

next table, pointing at my custard tart. 

‘If you find in China, it is imitation!’ 

‘ 

GLAMOROUS 

NEW HOTELS 

FIZZ INTO 

THE SKY LIKE 

FIREWORKS IN 

THIS TOWN 

’ 

In Hong Kong, imitation can be an 

amusing game. I loved the way the 

chef at trendy Mott 32, in Central, 

seemed to be having such fun with 

staples. His Peking duck spring 

rolls came stuffed with that healthy 

western obsession, kale, unexpectedly 

stunning. His bao buns seemed a 

thumbs-up to Spain (Hemingway 

would definitely have had those). 

Things were contrastingly hightemple-serious 

that last night, at Fish 

School: a Helsinki-goes-to-Hong Kong 

haunt in the San-Francisco-steep quarter 

of Sai Ying Pun. Counterbalancing the 

spare aesthetic of stone and timber, 

dishes were rich, the flavours engagingly 

alien. Only when Chris, the chef, whipped 

out his phone to show a photo of a 

bramble he’d picked that morning in the 

New Territories to adorn my pudding, 

did I realise: he’d been foraging. 

‘I like to work with the kind of 

stuff my mum used to get from the 

market,’ he said, with a sage’s poise, as I 

hoovered up a starter of glistening fish. 

It looked like dill-laced salmon but was, 

he told me, cobia, rolled in seaweed. ‘It’s 

local — caught in the South China Sea.’ 

With Fish School, the aim was 

to offer ‘a slice of what the city can 

provide’. That didn’t include one 

curious striped specimen in the fish 

tank. ‘It’s a knifejaw,’ he told me. ‘We 

put it on the menu, but nobody knew 

what it was, so we kept it as our pet.’ 

Some things it seems are still 

too local, even for the locals. 

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com 



ROADS TO RECOVERY 

After a 

tough year, 

Alex Allen feels 

the need for 

fresh horizons 

— and on a 

drive through 

America’s 

soul-stirring 

canyonlands, he 

discovers the 

widest in the 

world

US ROAD TRIP 

Opposite: Highway 163, 

crossing Monument Valley 

This page: Vermilion Cliffs 

National Monument 


T 

HE ONE THING YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT 

WATCHING THE SUNRISE IN ARIZONA’S MONUMENT 

VALLEY IS THAT IT’S COLD. BREATH-STEALINGLY, 

FINGER-STIFFENINGLY, FACE-ACHINGLY COLD. 

I was on my knees in the red dirt at 

the roadside, camera poised, trying to 

keep my hands from shaking. Behind 

me, Patsy Grandson, my Navajo guide, 

sat in the heated cab of our minivan. 

‘Here they come,’ she said, killing the 

engine and headlights. Ahead, emerging 

like ghosts from a glowing, ember-red 

landscape, were two, three, four, white 

horses. ‘Mustangs — on their way to 

water,’ said Patsy, as I sat paralysed, 

not by the cold, but by the sight. 

Here I was, in the most emblematic 

landscape of the American West, 

among those towering tombstonelike 

columns of rock immortalised 

by the movies, watching a string of 

its most iconic animals troop by. 

In fact, I was roughly at the halfway 

point of America’s ‘Grand Circle’ 

drive, a week-long loop that tours the 

shimmering deserts, unfathomable 

canyons and mountain-framed prairies 

of Nevada, Arizona and Utah, while 

ticking off six of the country’s most 

dramatic national parks along the way. 

I was also two months on from the end 

of my treatment for cancer, a period of 

time consumed by medical scrutiny, 

and scary, swallowed-down thoughts. 

I’d wanted to take a trip to shake off 

the mental tethers that had kept me 

grounded for more than a year of my 

late twenties, and to make the most 

of my freedom from routine hospital 

visits. I couldn’t think of anywhere 

more fitting to do so than out on my 

own, on America’s most epic road trip. 

I’d started in Las Vegas, giving 

myself just enough time to meet an old 

university friend. In November, the city 

was mad and sticky-hot — a psychedelic, 

24/7 circus, where even time seemed to 

have lost its grip on reality. It was fun 

to wander on a ‘weirdo-watch’, and get 

kitsched-out in Bonanza, ‘the world’s 

largest gift shop’ (they’re not joking), but 

when the day came to jump in my rented 

Jeep and head out of town, I was ready. 

I was on the road just after sunrise, 

the moon still visible as a perfect halfpill 

in a sky the blue of a motel pool. 

The mood was elation. As I streamed 

along towards my first checkpoint, 

across the Nevada-Arizona border in the 

city of Kingman, I could feel a weight 

lifting. With a local country-music 

radio station twanging from the stereo, 

and nothing ahead but desert, running 

to the suede-brown folds of distant 

mountains, I felt a rush of wonder 

and exhilaration close to a high. I was 

already hooked on the open road. 

Kingman flickered by like a ’50s film 

reel. It’s where an original section 

of Route 66 briefly splits from the 

thundering I-40 highway that overlaps 

it all the way from Oklahoma City 

to Barstow, California. This historic 

stretch, running from Kingman to Ash 

Fork, was a procession of chromedout 

diners, retro petrol stations and 

motels decorated in bubble-gum 


US ROAD TRIP 

Opposite: Arches 

National Park 

This page: Route 66 

motel sign 

shades of pink and blue. In Seligman, 

I pulled over for tacos at Delgadillo’s 

Snow Cap Drive-In — an eccentric, 

homespun place, with rusty old 

Chevrolets displayed outside. But the 

road wouldn’t wait. I had another 280km 

to go to my first overnight stop, and 

it was a biggie: the Grand Canyon. 

It is practically impossible to grasp, 

let alone convey in words, the scale of 

the Grand Canyon. It even defied the 

empirical capabilities of my camera. 

Every picture I took on the slow cruise 

east along the South Rim the next day, 

came out flat and inadequate. ‘Yeah, 

that’s what it looked like’ I could see 

myself telling blank-faced friends back 

home, ‘but, like, way bigger!’ In the end 

I realised the only thing to do was just 

commit as much to memory as I could: 

the low scud of rain clouds across the 

horizon; the flash of the Colorado River, 

just visible from certain angles; and the 

roaring silence of that big red hole. 

It was also an opportunity to slow 

down and take stock, to appreciate just 

how far from home I did feel — in a good 

way. For the last year and a half I’d been 

almost umbilically-linked to a hospital. 

But now the major ties had been cut, 

there was a catharsis in the gobbling-up 

of distance. And there was also a feeling 

— despite the unending scale of the 

region — of a comforting familiarity. 

The handful of people I’d had encounters 

with, gift-shop owners, petrol-station 

clerks, diner waitresses, had been 

chatty and open. Every little cottage 

or cottonwood-shaded farm I passed 

felt like somewhere I could stop for 

directions, and maybe a glass of iced tea 

on the porch. But then things changed. 

The Navajo Nation is the largest Native 

American territory in the US, covering 

a vast swathe of the ‘four corners’ area 

(encompassing Colorado, Utah, Arizona 

and New Mexico). And I had absolutely 

no idea I had crossed into it until I 

began to spot the signs: placards on 

municipal buildings carrying the Navajo 

‘ 

EMERGING LIKE 

GHOSTS FROM 

A GLOWING, 

EMBER-RED 

LANDSCAPE, 

WERE TWO, 

THREE, FOUR, 

WHITE HORSES 

’ 

Nation seal, vehicles bearing an insignia 

that at first I thought must belong to 

an environmental agency, but later 

discovered was the Navajo Nation police. 

And then, on reaching the Monument 

Valley area, I realised I was the only 

non-Navajo speaker in a chattering 

grocery store queue. It was a moment of 

wonderful, unexpected, bewilderment. 

Before I arrived, I’d imagined 

Monument Valley — as recognisably 

American as the Coca-Cola logo, or 


This page: A Navajo 

woman with a loom in 

Monument Valley 


US ROAD TRIP 

‘ 

IT IS PRACTICALLY 

IMPOSSIBLE TO GRASP, 

LET ALONE CONVEY IN 

WORDS, THE SCALE OF 

THE GRAND CANYON 

’ 

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing 

the red tab on a pair of Levi’s — as an 

over-commercialised film set. I was 

sure there’d be corny stagecoach rides, 

a fancy-dress cowboy to take selfies 

with, and hordes of tourists. Instead, 

the following morning, I found myself 

alone on Patsy’s minibus, as we rumbled 

to the valley entrance under a dawn sky 

still frosted with stars. I knew November 

was low season, but I didn’t think I’d get 

it all to myself. Yes, there was a visitors' 

centre and gift shop, and a modest 

fee for taking your car along the 27km 

scenic loop, but beyond that, the site 

was untouched by tarmac, mascots or 

hot-dog stands. ‘That’s just one of the 

advantages of not being a US national 

park,’ Patsy said with a wry chuckle, as 

we stopped to take in a panorama of 

buttes and cliffs washed in the amber 

light of sunrise. Monument Valley 

belongs to the Navajo, and is sensitively 

managed for the benefit of those who 

still live and farm on the valley floor. 

As part of the tour, which is the only 

way to get off and beyond the markedout 

loop road, we stopped at a small 

homestead that consisted of two prefab 

houses, a chicken coop, a basketball 

hoop and a mud-splattered truck. There 

was also a traditional earthen ‘hogan’ 

house, which Patsy ushered me into, 

where a Navajo woman sat spinning 

yarn on a creaking loom. As the two 

women chatted, I self-consciously 

browsed the jewellery displayed along a 

shelf. ‘That’s a nice one,’ Patsy reassured 

me, of the buffalo-pendant necklace 

I eventually chose. ‘The buffalo is 

symbolic of humbleness, a reminder to 

take only what you need.’ In truth, I’d 

bought it to be polite. But it would end 

up becoming a treasured souvenir. 

My next stop, the town of Moab, 

a day’s drive north into Utah, was 

a humble kind of place itself — 

particularly given its location, as the 

gateway to both Canyonlands and 

Arches National Parks. I bedded down 

for two nights, just long enough to 

cover the main sights. In Canyonlands 

I took my 4x4 off-road, rattling along 

sandy, snow-dappled tracks that 

led to plummeting overlooks. 

If I’d felt alone previously, it was 

nothing compared to what I experienced 

here. Whereas the Grand Canyon, 

and even Monument Valley, had had 

a sense of well-trodden familiarity, 

Canyonlands felt truly, eerily wild. 

Fearful thoughts began to nag. Who 

would find me if I broke down? The 

wolves? The wildcats? Spooked, I 

sped back to the safety of town. 

In Arches, I was pleasantly surprised 

to find crowds. I tagged along with 

them around the wind-formed 

bridges and towers of rock, like a giant 

sculpture garden, and followed their 

cues on where to stop and gawp. It 

was nice to be part of a flock again. 

But it couldn’t last. I had a few more 

checkpoints to cross off on this greatesthits 

road trip: Capitol Reef, Bryce 

Canyon and Zion National Parks. 

Frankly, and frustratingly, there 

simply aren’t enough adjectives (or 

column inches) to describe all three 

in a way that comes close to doing 

them justice. Each is as memorable 

as the next, from Capitol Reef’s ghost 

town of Fruita, to Bryce Canyon’s 

forest of stalagmite-like ‘hoodoo’ 

rock formations. In the end, it was a 

final standout moment that swayed 

it for Zion — the one that left the 

deepest lasting impression. 

I was still on the fringes of the park 

when it happened. Up ahead, and to 

the left of the endlessly straight road, 

where the land rolled away in a series 

of undulating hills, I saw something 

moving. As I stopped and got out to 

take a closer look, the dry-cold wind 

bit at my face. Leaning on the fence 

post, I watched a herd of buffalo 

rumble towards me over the crest of 

a hill. There was something touching 

about the way they moved, heads 

bowed under their own weight, both 

formidable and vulnerable — living 

remnants of an older time, when they 

would have covered this landscape 

in their millions. This time, I didn’t 

bother to lift my camera. Just standing 

there and watching in silence as they 

thundered past, trailing a cloud of dust, 

was enough. After they’d disappeared, I 

turned back to the car. Like the buffalo, 

I too was pushing on, moving forward, 

trying to take only what I needed. 




XXXXXXXXXXXXX 


NORWAY 

Bridget Harrison takes 

the reins on a family 

dog-sledding adventure 

in northeastern Norway 


NORWAY 

y sister is 

kneeling in the 

snow with tears 

cascading down 

her cheeks. 

Nuzzling in 

the crook of 

her arm is 

the tawny black head of Neos. He’s 

looking up at her with quizzical honeycoloured 

eyes, wagging his tail. 

“You’re my new friend, aren’t you boy,” 

she whispers. He gives her face a fat lick. 

“I think Neos knows you are 

sad,” says Alexi, my son. 

“I’m not sad,” sobs my sister. 

“I couldn’t be happier.” 

It’s our first morning at Trasti & Trine, 

a two-acre homestead in Finnmark, 

northeastern Norway, and we have been 

in the dog yard since we got here an hour 

ago. It’s minus 5C, the snow is thick on 

the ground and the pale February sun 

is only just peeping above the horizon, 

but we’ve barely noticed the cold. 

We have 60 Alaskan huskies to get 

to know. Each is tethered to a wooden 

kennel bearing its name. Some lie in 

the snow, some are curled up inside 

their huts, just their snouts poking 

out. Others stand majestically on their 

kennel roofs. We work our way through 

them with head scratches, pats and 

paw shakes. Crocs, Bacon, Peso, Isma, 

‘ 

OUR TORCHES 

FLASH IN 

THE SILVERY 

DARKNESS AND 

THE STARS 

ABOVE US ARE 

AS BRIGHT 

AS LEDS 

’ 

Neos. We all find a favourite. I hope my 

sister is finding something more. 

Six months previously her beloved 

dog, Willow, died of cancer. The day the 

vet came to put Willow down I made a 

promise that, although my heartbroken 

sister was going to take a while to be 

ready for a new pet, we would go on a 

holiday that would be all about dogs. 

I’d been husky sledding before, but 

only for a couple of hours, and (as it often 

is) the trip was just one event in a list of 

snow-based activities. I had found it a 

rather impersonal experience with the 

dogs. When we got to the sled they were 

already harnessed up and ready to run. 

But Trasti & Trine, just outside the 

small coastal town of Alta, in a remote 

area of flat-topped mountains and 

snowy forests, offers something unique: 

a chance to stay on a homestead where 

you really get to know an entire pack 

of huskies — pet them, feed them, 

harness them. It’s run by Trine Lyrek, a 

warm-spirited and passionate musher 

who has competed in the Iditarod, the 

legendary 1,000-mile Alaskan husky race. 

As well as offering a range of 

sledding adventures, her yard is an 

active racing kennel. All the huskies 

here are elite athletes, but Trine has 

purposely bred them to be comfortable 

with strangers, starting when her 

puppies are born in the summer and 

visitors book to go hiking with them. 

The dogs are such a welcoming 

bunch, it’s hard to tear ourselves away 

from them — until someone mentions 

hot reindeer stew. It is waiting for us 

in the warmth of a rustic farmhouse. 

This is the domain of Trine’s husband, 

Johnny Trasti. He was a chef for the 

Norwegian prime minister (he has also 

cooked for President Putin) and now 

runs a Michelin-star-worthy restaurant, 

smokery and bakery on the homestead. 

All his cooking is based on local, 

organic ingredients: wild salmon, Arctic 

char and pike from the nearby Alta River; 

reindeer and elk from the mountains; 

lingonberries and cloudberries foraged 

from secret marshlands; king crab, 

scallops and cod from the nearby Barents 

Sea. People travel from all over Norway 

to enjoy his tasting menus based on the 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

This page, clockwise from top left: 

The tree-lined pathway leading to the 

Trasti & Trine homestead; owners Trasti 

& Trine share a joke; guests enjoy the 

winter sun; Johnny Trasti's inventive fish 

dish; inside the three-bedroom log cabin 


NORWAY 

seasons and take his cooking classes. 

We soon warm up, dunking homemade 

bread flavoured with birch sap into 

a rich, smoky broth. This is followed 

by a delectable cloudberry mouse. 

By now the Arctic darkness has 

descended and it’s time for our first 

sledding trip. Back in the yard and 

bundled up in heavy-duty snow gear, we 

are given the names of the huskies that 

we are to harness. They yelp and dance 

about in excitement, desperate to be 

chosen. My boys, aged seven and ten, are 

just as excited when they learn that they 

are getting their own sled, pulled by Crocs 

and Slipper, their very own dog team. 

My sister lovingly leads four dogs 

to her sled while my husband and I 

grapple four excited mutts to ours. 

Trine’s sled will lead with her team. 

Then it’s head torches on and we whoosh 

off in a line out of the homestead. 

Down snowy forest trails we speed, 

towards the white expanse of the 

frozen river. Our torches flash in the 

silvery darkness and the stars above us 

are as bright as LEDs. Out here in the 

wilderness the night is silent. As the 

dogs charge along, all we can hear is the 

scraping of our sled runners and the 

whoops of the boys ahead when they 

career round a corner or fly over a bump. 

It’s now minus 10c so Trine keeps our 

adventure to less than two hours, and 

just as our toes are going painfully numb 

we’re back at the homestead, sipping hot 

blackcurrant juice by a blazing outdoor 

fire. We finish the day tucking into a meal 

of cod tongue and scallops, followed by 

reindeer steaks and lingonberry tart. 

Guests sleep in rooms above the 

restaurant, or, as we did, you can stay 

in the cosy three-bedroom cabin, which 

has its own little sitting room with a 

log-burner. It’s a simple place, with pineclad 

walls and large windows. Best of 

all, exclaims my sister, is that her room 

under the eaves overlooks the dog yard. 

She drifts off to sleep happily listening 

to the huskies starting up a communal 

good-night howl before they are crossly 

shushed by Trine. Next morning I find 

her and Alexi in their pyjamas at her 

window, watching the dogs being given 

hunks of frozen fish for breakfast. 

Our breakfast is a perfectly curated 

buffet of local fare: slices of homesmoked 

wild salmon, salted lamb, 

reindeer tongue, foraged berries, 

wild mushrooms and scrambled 

eggs, along with homemade breads, 

jams, butter and kefir water. 

We have a day-long sledding trip 

booked and Trine suggests that we do 

a wide circuit down the frozen river 

— along forest and mountain trails — 

that will keep us near the homestead, 

in case the boys get cold or bored. 

She need not have worried: they are 

so thrilled at driving their own sled, 

they would be game for the Iditarod. 

At lunchtime we set up camp in a 

clearing, high on a wooded mountain 

path, where the last rays of the sun bathe 

us in golden light. We lay down reindeer 

skins on the snow and the boys help 

Trine to make a fire. She gives them each 

a sheath knife to whittle skewers for 

grilling hot dogs. We drink reindeer soup 

and make toast from Trasti’s bread in the 

flames. My sister disappears for a while. 

We find her up on the path, hanging 

out with the dogs. Neos’s head is in her 

lap again. Bacon is nuzzling her ear. 

On our way back we have a minor 

mishap. My sister slips off her sled just 

as we are heading down a bank on to 

the frozen river. She’s not hurt, just 

mortified, because before Trine can 

stop them the huskies pelt off down 

the trail, pulling the unmanned sled. 

Trine reassures us that the dogs know 

their way home and takes my sister in 

her sled. Then, a short while later up 

ahead on the trail we spot our errant 

huskies rolling about in the snow, 

waiting for us. They pant happily as 

we approach, as though they’ve just 

played a hilarious practical joke. 

That night, as we finish our last 

delicious supper, still laughing about the 

cheeky huskies, I doubt anything could 

have made this trip better. Then, just 

as we are tramping through the snow 

back to our cabin, the sky turns ablaze 

with green. Out of nowhere, the curling, 

iridescent fingers of the Northern Lights 

stretch out above the homestead. We stop 

and stare at the heavens in wonder. In 

the dog yard the pack begins a communal 

howl. My sister and I are both crying now. 



The Northern Lights 

over the Trasti & Trine 

homestead 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

‘ 

OUT OF 

NOWHERE, THE 

NORTHERN 

LIGHTS STRETCH 

OUT ABOVE THE 

HOMESTEAD 

’ 


worldtravellermagazine.com 

Your passport to the Middle East's first fully 

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Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine 

by heading online to read more inspirational and 

exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute 

hotel and holiday features 

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Weekends 

Staycations and short-haul escapes 

OLD KID ON 

THE BLOCK 

Abu Dhabi’s original urban 

block, Al Hosn, has re-opened 

to the public following 

conservation works. The 

oldest, most significant 

heritage site in the city, it 

comprises four interrelated 

components, including Qasr 

Al Hosn, which tells the story 

of the emirate's evolution 

from 18th-century fishing 

and pearling settlement to 

modern metropolis. View the 

exhibition at the Inner Fort 

before touring the Outer 

Palace, which shares the 

stories of the people who 

lived there, offering a glimpse 

into their everyday lives. 

© Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi. Photo by Roland Halbe 


WEEKENDS 

Reasons to go back to 

THE CREEK 

Rediscover the historic heart of the city thanks to the 

new wave of attractions and activities at Dubai Creek 

1Boutique stays 

Tucked away amid the 

rooftops and courtyards 

of a souk, Al Seef Hotel 

by Jumeirah is just like a 

traditional Arabian bayt 

(home). Spread across 

several clusters of buildings, 

the hotel transports you to 

old-world Arabia with its 

views along the ambient 

alleyways of the bazaar and 

of the waterway, all wrapped 

up in authentic design details, 

such as woven fabrics and 

wooden beams. 

2Shatter your 

illusions 

For a novel, 

Insta-friendly museum 

experience, check out the 

mind-bending Museum 

of Illusions in Al Seef. It's 

home to 80 quizzical 

exhibits, including the 

Alice in Wonderlandesque 

Ames Room, where 

you shrink or grow as you 

move through the space. 

Al Seef Hotel by Jumeirah 

Jameel Arts Centre 

3 

View a contemporary 

art gem 

The recently-opened 

Jameel Arts Centre, located 

at the tip of Al Jaddaf 

Waterfront, is home to 

curated commissions, 

projects and exhibitions 

drawn from regional and 

international artists. Even the 

gardens that punctuate the 

building are achingly artistic, 

designed by landscape 

architect Anouk Vogel and 

featuring rare plants. 

4Floating tours 

Docked on the Bur 

Dubai side of the 

creek, JA Bateaux Dubai 

offers a fresh perspective 

on the area's vibrant souks 

and aged dhows. Step 

aboard the Sundowner 

Cruise (from 5-6pm) and 

you can take in the sights 

from the outdoor deck. 

Or, there's the option to 

linger over a meal served 

to a classy soundtrack. 


long 

the 

weekend 

Berlin 

From a divided city 

to an achingly cool 

capital, Berlin hums 

with creative energy 

and exciting things 

to see and do, says 

resident Lara Brunt 

This page: Alexanderplatz 

and Television Tower 

Opposite from top: 

the Reichstag building; 

Provocateur 


LONG WEEKEND 

KNOWN FOR ITS CUTTING-EDGE CULTURE, 24-HOUR 

NIGHTLIFE AND FREE-SPIRITED VIBE, you’d be hardpressed 

to find a capital as cool as Berlin. 

Founded in the 13th century on the River Spree, Berlin 

has had a turbulent history. After the devastation of Hitler’s 

Third Reich, the Cold War left the city brutally divided into 

East and West by the Berlin Wall. Following reunification in 

1990, ample space and cheap rents lured creative types to 

Berlin and resulted in an explosion of art, music and culture. 

Today, Berlin offers history and hipsters at every turn. 

The central Mitte district is packed with enough attractions 

to keep you busy for days, including the World Heritagelisted 

Museum Island and Brandenburg Gate. 

Straddling the Spree, the hip ‘hoods of Kreuzberg 

and Friedrichshain are bustling with clubs, cafés and 

restaurants. Heading west, Tiergarten is dominated by the 

park of the same name, while upmarket Charlottenburg is 

home to Ku’damm, Berlin’s main shopping mile. And no trip 

to Berlin is complete without paying a visit to the splendid 

palaces of Potsdam on the outskirts of the city. 

Our Berlin guide offers a curated list of the best things to 

see and do, and the hippest places to eat, shop and sleep. 

So, let’s start exploring… 

The number of hotels 

in the German capital 

has doubled in the last 

decade, with an eclectic 

mix of luxury and designled 

spaces that reflect 

the arty atmosphere 

of the city itself. 

Overlooking the 

Brandenburg Gate, Hotel 

Adlon Kempinski is Berlin’s 

most glamorous fivestar 

hotel. The 385-room 

hotel is sumptuous as 

you’d expect, with a two- 

Michelin-starred restaurant 

and a tri-level spa. 

In a former bank near 

the State Opera House, 

Hotel de Rome features 

four historic suites. Chill 

out in the subterranean 

spa and head to the 

rooftop terrace for 

impressive views. 

The 78-room Das Stue 

on the edge of Tiergarten, 

the city’s largest park, was 

once the Danish Embassy. 

Plump for a sprawling Stue 

suite with a freestanding 

silver tub, then indulge in 

Catalan chef Paco Pérez’s 

Michelin-starred cuisine. 

Next to Berlin Zoo, 

25hours Hotel Bikini 

STYLISH SLEEPS 

From historic properties to boutique hotels, 

discover the best places to bed down 

Berlin is an Instagrammer’s 

dream – think hammocks 

in the lobby and a hip 

rooftop lounge. Choose 

from rooms overlooking 

the animal enclosures, 

or the buzzing streets 

of West Berlin. 

A short stroll from 

the shops of Ku’damm, 

Provocateur has stylish 

rooms with lipstick-red 

or rich teal hues and 

plush velvet bedheads. 

Shimmy along lamp-lit 

hallways to the acclaimed 

restaurant serving 

French-Chinese fusion. 

On the banks of the 

Spree, the Hotel nhow 

Berlin is close to the city’s 

best nightlife. It boasts 

candy-coloured interiors 

by Egyptian-born designer 

Karim Rashid and roundthe-clock 

room service 

offering guitars and decks 

for post-clubbing parties. 

explore 

the wall 

Nearly 30 years since the 

fall of the Berlin Wall, 

explore one of the city’s 

darkest chapters 

THE EAST 

SIDE 

GALLERY 

Running for 

more than 

1.3km, this 

open-air gallery is the 

longest remaining stretch 

of the wall. It features 

around 100 murals painted 

by international artists soon 

after the wall came down 

commemorating the pain 

of separation and the joy of 

reunification. 

BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL 

Bypass Checkpoint Charlie 

– the old border crossing 

is now a tacky tourist 

trap – and instead visit 

this fantastic (and free) 

indoor-outdoor museum 

on Bernauer Strasse in 

Mitte. Alongside remnants 

of the wall, the moving 

monuments and exhibitions 

show the impact of division 

on daily life. 


etail 

therapy 

From fashion to furniture, 

Berlin’s shopping scene is 

as eclectic as the city itself 

KaDeWe 

Opened in 1907 and 

recently revamped by 

Pritzker Prize-winning 

architect Rem Koolhaas, 

KaDaWe is Berlin’s 

counterpart to Harrods. 

Spread over 60,000sqm, 

the department store 

stocks a dazzling array of 

luxury brands from around 

the world. Don’t miss the 

sixth-floor food hall, where 

you can shop for artisan 

cheese and chocolate, and 

dine at more than a dozen 

high-end food counters. 

Frau Tonis Parfum 

Bottle a bit of the 

city’s bohemian 

spirit at this 

sleek perfumery 

near Checkpoint 

Charlie. Founders 

Stefanie Hanssen 

and Christoph 

Niedermeier’s unique 

fragrances evoke the Berlin 

of the Roaring Twenties, 

including the best-selling 

Violet No.37 inspired by 

Marlene Dietrich. You 

can even get a customblended 

scent to match 

your style, or try your hand 

at creating your own. 

Andreas Murkudis 

In a former printing 

factory in the Tiergarten 

neighbourhood, this 

concept store showcases 

an eclectic edit of more 

than 300 brands in a 

gallery-like space. 

There’s a mix of established 

brands – think Dries 

Van Noten and Comme 

des Garçons – and 

freshly discovered 

designers that favour a 

minimalist aesthetic. 

ART GALLERIES 

Home to more than 400 

galleries, Berlin has one 

of the most exciting art 

scenes on the planet 

The epicentre of Berlin’s 

post-Wall contemporary 

art scene, Auguststrasse 

in Mitte is a great place 

to start your gallery hop. 

Stop by the KW Institute 

for Contemporary 

Art (kw-berlin.de) and 

me Collectors Room 

(me-berlin.com), two 

sprawling galleries 

showcasing local and 

international works, 

and pop into Clärchens 

Ballhaus to the see the 

beautiful 19th-century 

mirrored ballroom. 

Wander over to the 

Boros Collection 

(sammlung-boros. 

de); you’ll need to 

book in advance, but 

both the contemporary 

art collection and the 

building itself – a World 

War II bunker – warrant a 

visit. Opt for a group tour 

(Thursdays to Sundays) 

or a private viewing of the 

current exhibition, which 

features works by Andreas 

Eriksson and Guan Xiao. 

Then continue northwest 

to the Hamburger 

Bahnhof (smb.museum), 

one of the world’s 

largest museums for 

contemporary art. Housed 

in a former railway 

station, works range from 

Andy Warhol and Roy 

Lichtenstein to the German 

artist Joseph Beuys. 

Next, take public 

transport south to Blain 

Southern (blainsouthern. 

com) in the same former 

factory on Potsdamer 

Strasse as Andreas 

Murkudis’ concept store 

(see 'retail therapy'). The 

gallery’s roster of artists 

includes top names such 

as Lynn Chadwick, Wim 

Wenders and Bill Viola. 

Finish up at the nearby 

Urban Nation (urbannation.com), 

the world’s 

first major museum 

dedicated exclusively to 

street art and graffiti. 

COOL CAFÉS 

Coffee is serious business in Berlin, with third-wave 

roasters and independent cafés packed with laptoptoting 

locals. In Mitte’s gallery district, The Barn 

(thebarn.de) focuses on single-origin coffee, while the 

croissants are so popular you can only buy two at a 

time. Over in Friedrichshain, Silo Coffee (instagram. 

com/silocoffee) does a mean flat white, while in a redbrick 

former factory in Kreuzberg, Bonanza Roastery 

Café (bonanzacoffee.de) serves one of the smoothest 

cappuccinos in town. Their beans are also served at The 

Store (thestores.com), an über-cool concept store and 

café on the ground floor of Soho House in Mitte. 


Opposite from top: Artist at 

work; Hamburger Bahnhof; a 

flat white at The Barn 

This page from top: A dish by 

Horváth; Boxhagener Platz 

HOT TABLES 

LONG WEEKEND 

Once a culinary backwater, Berlin now 

boasts innovative restaurants and a 

constellation of Michelin stars 

RESTAURANT TIM RAUE Not far from Checkpoint 

Charlie, Tim Raue serves highly creative, Asianinfluenced 

fusion cuisine. Dishes such as wasabi 

langoustine and Peking duck three ways have earned 

the Berlin-born chef two Michelin stars. tim-raue.com 

COOKIES & CREAM Berlin is Europe’s vegan capital, 

and the city’s first meat-free fine diner has been 

awarded a Michelin star. Chef Stephan Hentschel 

works his magic on dishes such as mushroom ravioli 

with wild herbs and Parmesan dumplings with 

Périgord truffle stock. cookiescream.com 

HORVÁTH This cosy, wood-panelled restaurant in 

Kreuzberg is another of Berlin’s more unconventional 

Michelin-starred spots. Chef Sebastian Frank – named 

European Chef of the Year – serves imaginative twists 

on Austrian favourites. finesse. restaurant-horvath.de 

insider tips 

Domingos Ruiz 

Lepores, editor of 

Awesome Berlin 

(awesomeberlin. 

net), shares his 

top picks for... 

exploring the city: 

“I always take visitors to Dahlem, a leafy 

residential neighbourhood with the 

most beautiful houses in Berlin. Stop 

by the Domäne Dahlem, a small farm 

where you can buy homegrown fruits 

and vegetables. My favourite hidden 

gem is Gartenstadt Falkenberg in the 

far eastern neighbourhood of Grunau. 

This UNESCO World Heritage-listed 

modernist housing estate was designed 

by architect Bruno Taut, who also 

influenced the Bauhaus movement. 

And don’t leave Berlin without climbing 

the 285 steps of the Victory Column in 

Tiergarten for one of the best views of 

To market 

the city from above. 

TO MARKET 

Foodies should make a 

beeline for Markthalle 

Neun (markthalleneun. 

de), a 19th-century 

market hall in trendy 

Kreuzberg that focuses 

on regional farmers 

and artisan purveyors. 

Regular events include 

the hugely popular 

Street Food Thursday 

and Breakfast Market, 

which takes place every 

third Sunday. 

On Saturdays, 

head to Boxhagener 

Platz – aka Boxi – in 

the hip Friedrichshain 

neighbourhood for 

the weekly farmers’ 

market and explore 

the surrounding cafés 

and boutiques. On 

Sundays, Mitte’s 

Mauerpark market 

is a must for lovers 

of vintage and vinyl. 

If the sun is shining, 

stroll over to the 

amphitheatre for 

Bearpit Karaoke – 

easily one of the most 

entertaining afternoons 

you’ll ever have. 


Family first 

If spending more time with loved ones is at the top of your list this year, then 

it's high time to feel the family-friendly staycay vibes at Fairmont The Palm 


WORLD TRAVELLER X FAIRMONT THE PALM 

There are two main camps 

of people when it comes to 

organising family holidays: 

those who are open to going 

with the flow, and those who 

prefer to precision plan their stays. If you 

fall into the latter category, you’ll be cursed 

with a checklist as long as your arm that no 

doubt has to be carefully cross examined 

before committing to leaving the house 

with the little ones in tow. Common points 

that are non-negotiable include having an 

entertaining kids’ club, toddler-friendly 

swimming pool and plenty of space to spread 

out in. Thankfully, families are blessed with 

an impressive number of staycation options 

in the UAE, and Fairmont The Palm is on the 

radar as a top choice for parents in search of 

a fuss-free break away. 

Tucked along 

the trunk of Palm 

Jumeirah, the hotel’s 

island location lends 

a fun, vacation vibe 

– there’s something 

about feeling the salty 

sea breeze wash over 

you that screams 

“holiday”. Those of you 

with younger kids will 

agree that a speedy 

check-in is worth its weight in gold and the 

aptly named Fairmont Gold experience is 

like getting access to a secret hotel within a 

hotel. With it, you’ll be able to usher the kids 

straight past the main reception and up to 

the ninth floor where a private, lounge-style 

space awaits. Simply collect your key as your 

kids gulp down fresh juice and get stuck into 

their activity packs, and you’ll be in your 

room in a flash. 

Fairmont Gold Rooms come with one king 

bed or two queen beds, with cots available 

upon request, and interconnecting rooms 

available for larger broods. If you need more 

space still, you can upgrade to a suite, the 

pinnacle of which is the Deluxe Suite, which 

has a separate living room and dedicated 

dining space, as well as an adjoining butler’s 

pantry, large terrace and access to all the 

signature benefits, such as complimentary 

breakfast in the lounge and afternoon tea 

served from 2-4pm. 

‘ 

The hotel’s 

island location 

lends a fun, 

vacation vibe 

’ 

Adventure in spades 

If you’re eager to get out and enjoy the winter 

sunshine, the swimming pools and beach 

are enough to keep you busy for hours on 

end. You’ll find the family pools to the right 

of the hotel – the first you come across is 

the shallowest where kids are free to roam, 

under a watchful eye, without wandering 

out of their depth (our two-year-old couldn’t 

touch the bottom near the basketball hoop, 

but the rest of the pool was perfect for him). 

Just beyond this is the splash park where 

vibrant sprinklers invite water babies to play. 

The private beach (open from 6.30am to 

sunset, depending on the season) is reached 

via a short walkway which opens out to a 

stretch of soft sand and marked swimming 

area, with great views towards Dubai Marina 

and the Ain Dubai Ferris wheel. 

There are plenty of watersports available, 

from kayaking to sailing lessons and there’s 

also a cool line-up of fitness activities to 

try, such as PRAMA by 

Pavigym, which will put 

a hi-tech spin on your 

training session as you 

strive to stay in step with 

the interactive floor. If 

you need to occupy the 

children while you sweat 

it out, you can drop them 

at Fairmont Falcons Kids' 

Club (for ages 18 months 

to six years) where they 

can tackle the climbing 

wall, get absorbed in arts and crafts, play 

dress up or kick back with video games in the 

chillout zone. 

Dinner companions 

Family-friendly dining venues are easy 

to come by, with Flow Kitchen offering 

something to suit all tastes – the Friday 

family lunch is especially popular among 

guests of all ages. Blowfish does American 

style ‘grab and go’ dishes such as burgers and 

crazy shakes by the beach while the vibrant 

interiors of Little Miss India invite you to 

taste Indian cuisine. There are children’s 

menus available at the majority of venues, 

offering a healthy twist on the usual kidfriendly 

favourites, but if you don’t feel like 

leaving your room, the in-room dining is 

a great option (we’ve never seen our kids 

devour so much food in one sitting). Order 

glasses of milk for your pyjama-clad minimes 

so they can settle down to sleep while 

you sneak out onto the terrace to recount 

memories of the day. 

To find out more call +971 4 457 3388 

or visit fairmont.com/palm 

3 ACTIVITIES 

FOR BUSY BEES 

Fun at Fairmont 

Falcons Kids' Club 

The little ones will love the lineup 

of activities crafted by the 

in-house playmakers, along 

with books, toys and jigsaw 

puzzles to get stuck into. 

Friday family lunch 

at Flow Kitchen 

Taking place from 12.30pm- 

3.30pm, you can dine al 

fresco at this fun family buffet 

– the pick 'n' mix style sweetie 

counter will blow their minds. 

Be pampered at 

Willow Stream Spa 

Unwind with a traditional 

Moroccan hammam and tipto-toe 

body scrub at this multiaward-winning 

spa. 


WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA 

STAYCATION 

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa 

Let this rustic Arabian oasis charm its way into your travel plans 

ROOMS & SUITES 

Designed in harmony with the 

surroundings, you'll feel at one with 

the dunes inside these abodes – from 

the Superior Room with its desert or 

courtyard views, to the Deluxe Suite, 

which fits families of four and has a 

terrace with a seating area ideal for 

gazing at those golden sunsets. The 

Junior Suites are decorated with rare, 

handcrafted Arabian furnishings. 

THE FOOD 

Enjoying a traditional meal underneath 

a blanket of stars makes for a 

memorable meal and Al Hadheerah 

more than delivers with its cosy seating 

and live entertainment. Head to Al 

Sarab Lounge for an elevated view of 

the landscape – the warm glow of the 

lanterns and soothing oud music add to 

the ambience. Masala is the place to go 

for delicious North Indian fare. 

WELLNESS 

Ensure you start 2019 looking and 

feeling your best with the three-hour 

Blissful Desert Rose Experience at 

Satori Spa, which includes a full-body 

exfoliation, tip-to-toe aromatherapy 

rub with rose oil, body wrap and 

soothing facial with scalp massage. Not 

only will you say "goodbye" to muscle 

tension, but you'll emerge a more 

radiant version of your former self. 

To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com 


YOUR DREAM DESERT EXPERIENCE IS ON OFFER 

AT 20% OFF BEST AVAILABLE RATE! 

Behind you lies the urban sprawl. Up front, the rolling dunes and the promise of a luxury desert getaway like no other. 

Here, luxury and relaxation are reinvented. And now, this dream desert experience comes with a great deal. 

 

PRICE FROM AED 1000 Superior King per room per night 

BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA 

Dubai,United Arab Emirates 

T:+971 4 809 6194, bas.reservations@meydanhotels.com 

babalshams.com 

/babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel

WORLD TRAVELLER X GLORIA HOTEL DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

Gloria Hotel Dubai 

Place yourself at the heart of new Dubai at this family-friendly, all suite property 

SUITES & APARTMENTS 

When you've a large family to 

accommodate on holiday, or are looking 

for a comfortable space where you can 

stay for longer in Dubai, these elegant 

suites and apartments may be the 

answer. The Grand Suite Sea View, for 

instance, has views of Palm Jumeirah, 

two bedrooms to spread out in, a cosy 

living room, and kitchenette for a 

happy, holiday home vibe. 

THE FOOD 

If you feel like a day off cooking, there 

are plenty of places to dine in the hotel. 

Feast on barbecue food on the rooftop 

at La Terrasse Tent, or step inside the 

main restaurant (it's open for breakfast, 

lunch and dinner) to dine à la carte in 

a stylish setting. For Lebanese food, 

Qutoof Restaurant is the place to go. 

Its enclosed terrace area comes in 

especially handy during the summer. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

Take a dip in the pool – lessons for kids 

are available – and keep up your fitness 

regime at the gym, which has a fab 

line-up of classes, such as martial arts 

and spinning. For pampering, head to 

Dreamworks Spa, where all manner of 

revitalising treatments are on offer, 

from soothing wraps to complexionboosting 

facials. Plus, all the attractions 

of new Dubai are on the doorstep. 

To find out more, call +971 4 399 6666 or visit gloria-hotels.com 


Discover the perfect blend of convenience, 

stylish comfort for pleasure and business. 

Email: info@2seasonshotels.com | Web: www.2seasonshotels.com 

Tel: +971 4 399 6666 | Fax: +971 4 381 8067 | P.O.Box: 502222, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai Internet City, UAE 

א א 

Unlimited Comfort

WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI 

STAYCATION 

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai 

Rise to the top at the world's tallest five-star hotel 

SUITES & APARTMENTS 

This lofty hotel has ample space to 

welcome guests. Its 1,608 guestrooms 

and suites have luxurious finishings 

– think marble bathrooms with rain 

showers and oversized tubs – and 

views of the glittering skyline or Dubai 

Water Canal. Families can book a suite 

and spread out in two separate living 

and sleeping areas. Room service is 

available around the clock. 

THE FOOD 

There are 15 award-winning restaurants 

and bars at the property, each serving 

memorable meals. Fans of delicious 

steak will want to head straight to 

Prime68, while Positano is the place to 

feast on handmade pasta and pizza. For 

something a bit different, try Japanese 

restaurant Izakaya – the resident Wasabi 

Girl (she has green hair) will prepare 

fresh wasabi at your table. 

THE ACTIVITIES 

The hotel is close to many top 

attractions, but there are lots of perks 

that'll tempt you to linger for longer at 

the property. Take a dip in the sparkling 

outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot 

of pampering, head to Saray Spa, which 

is home to the UAE's only Dead Sea 

floatation pool. Try the Saray Golden 

Hammam, which includes a decadent 

skin massage using 24-karat gold. 

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 


Service and detail that shape your journey. 

Immerse in the luxury of rich experiences at the JW Penthouse Suite and Marquis Penthouse Suite, 

spread across two levels of impeccably designed space with a touch of traditional Arabic design. 

Each 624sqm suite features two separate bedrooms with two separate living rooms. 

Additional benefits include complimentary airport transfers, private check-in and check-out 

and access to the award-winning Executive Lounge on the 37 th floor. 

Enjoy celebratory dining in more than 15 restaurants and bars, and pampering at the luxurious Saray Spa. 

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai 

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW 

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

1 

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breakfast daily; a full-day Nusa 

Penida Island tour with private 

boat charter and gondola 

cruise; half-day snorkelling 

tour around Nusa Lembongan, 

including private boat charter; 

return speedboat transfers 

to Lembongan; and return 

a i r por t t ra n sfers i n Ba l i. 


4 

NEW ZEALAND 

AUCKLAND TO 

WELLINGTON MULTISPORT 


USD1,625 per person 

Includes: Stay 4 nights in 

hotels; 1 night in a Maori 

village and 2 nights in lodges. 

Included in the package is: 

5 breakfasts; 2 lunches; 4 

dinners; cycling through 

Karangahake Gorge; a 

traditional hangi dinner; 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing 

hiking excursion; jet boat and 

kayaking along Whanganui 

River; and all transport 

between destinations. 

Validity: Now until 20 Apr 2019. 


DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS 

AROUND THE WORLD 

MALDIVES 

KURUMBA MALDIVES 



Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Superior 

Room with breakfast and dinner 

daily and return speedboat transfers. 

Offer: 30% discount on room rate 

and complimentary upgrade 

to half board. 


SEYCHELLES 

CONSTANCE EPHELIA 



Includes: 3 nights stay in a 

Junior Suite with breakfast 

and dinner daily and return 

airport transfers. 

Offer: 30% discount on the 

room rate. 


HUNGARY 

CORINTHIA HOTEL 

BUDAPEST 



Includes: Stay 3 nights 

in a Superior Room with 

breakfast daily and return 


Validity: Now until 

31 Mar 2019. 

Grand Hotel Vienna 

AUSTRIA 

GRAND HOTEL VIENNA 



Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Superior 

Room with breakfast daily and return 


Offer: 30% discount on room rate. 


UNITED KINGDOM 

THE PRINCIPAL EDINBURGH 

GEORGE STREET 



Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Standard 

Room with breakfast daily and return 




The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur 

Constance Ephelia 

THAILAND 

SIX SENSES KOH SAMUI 



Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Pool 

Villa with breakfast daily and return 

airport tansfers. 



Kurumba Maldives 

MALAYSIA 

THE RITZ-CARLTON, KUALA 

LUMPUR 



Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe 

Room with breakfast daily and 

return airport transfers. 



The Principal Edinburgh 

George Street 

Constance Belle Mare Plage 

MAURITIUS 

CONSTANCE BELLE MARE 

PLAGE 



Includes: Stay 4 nights in a 

Prestige Room Beach Front with 

breakfast and dinner daily and return 



Validity: Now until 28 Feb 2019. 


DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS 

WEEKEND ESCAPES 

Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai 

Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa 

UAE 

CAESARS PALACE 

BLUEWATERS DUBAI 

1 night starting from USD 

450 per person 

Special offer: 20% discount on 

room rate. 

Includes: Stay in a Resort Deluxe 

Room with breakfast and return 



SOFITEL DUBAI THE PALM 

RESORT & SPA 



Special offer: Special rate. 

Includes: Stay in a Luxury Room 

Sea View with breakfast and dinner 

and return airport transfers. 

Validity: Now until 31 Jan 2019. 

HYATT REGENCY DUBAI CREEK 

HEIGHTS 




the room rate and access to the 

club lounge. 

Includes: Stay in a Regency Room 

with breakfast and dinner and 



FAIRMONT BAB AL BAHR, 

ABU DHABI 

2 nights starting from USD 


Special offer: 20% off the room 

rate and upgrade to half board. 

Includes: Stay in a Fairmont View 

Room with breakfast and dinner 



WALDORF ASTORIA RAS 

AL KHAIMAH 



Special offer: Special rate. 

Includes: Stay in a Classic Room 

with breakfast and return airport 

transfers. 


OMAN 

ALILA JABAL AKHDAR 



Special offer: Complimentary 

upgrade to half board. 

Includes: Stay in a Suite Horizon 

View with breakfast and dinner 



SHANGRI-LA BARR AL JISSAH 

RESORT & SPA 




room rate. 

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room 

with breakfast and daily and 



Alila Jabal Akhdar 

Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi 

Waldorf Astoria Ras al Khaimah 

How to book 

By calling dnata on 

+971 4 316 6666 

By stepping into a dnata outlet 

or by visiting dnatatravel.com 

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata 

newsletter and receive more offers direct to your 

inbox. T&Cs apply. 


THROUGH 

THE LENS 

Sultan Qaboos Mosque 

in Sohar, Oman 

“This mosque had popped up 

in my Instagram feed a few 

times so I was determined to 

go and photograph it for my 

MasjidSeries project, which 

documents mosques around 

the world to portray Islam in 

a beautiful, positive light. Its 

architecture is very heavily 

influenced by Persian and 

Central Asian Islamic design, 

and the person in the shot 

reveals its scale – this isn't even 

the main door, it's just a side 

door! I enjoyed my visit so much 

that I ended up spending around 

four hours there and was able 

to pray Asr and Maghreb. It was 

the trip that made me fall in 

love with Oman.” 

Dubai-based investment 

banker turned photographer, 

Alamash Javed, loves to 

travel because “it helps open 

up my mind and appreciate 

the world” @aljvd; 

altamashjaved.com 

SEND US YOUR BEST 

TRAVEL PHOTOS 

in high-res jpeg format, along 

with a snippet of the stories 

behind them via email to 

faye@hotmediapublishing.com 

and you may end up being 

featured on this page 


DIGITAL 

Now win! 

BE OUR TRAVEL 

COMPANION 

Stay up-to-date with all that’s 

happening on our social channels 

and join in the conversation by 

sharing your experiences. Here’s 

where you can find us… 

@dnataworldtraveller 

Double tap our dreamy 

destination shots and tag 

us in your images for a chance to 

feature on our wall. 

@worldtravellermagazine 

Stay up to date with travel 

stories as we post them. 

@WT_Magazine 

Make the most of your 

280-character allowance 

by sharing your best travel 

moments with us. 

#dnataworldtraveller 

A 3-night stay at 

Gili Lankanfushi, Maldives 

We’ve teamed up with this eco hideaway to give away a threenight 

stay in a villa suite for two people, including daily breakfast 

and return transfers*. Just a 20-minute speedboat ride from Velana 

International Airport, this lush resort invites you to pamper 

yourself with a tension-busting massage, dine on Maldivian 

favourites, an grab a surfboard and tackle the waves (lessons 

are available in the lagoon) – there’s so much to discover. Visit 

worldtravellermagzine.com for details. *Terms & conditions apply. 

THE HOT LIST 

Let our travel news and round-ups, available exclusively on our website, 

inspire your next trip… 

1A dunk above 

the rest. Dip a toe 

into our selection 

of stunning rooftop 

swimming pools 

around the globe. 

2Bucket list 

trips. Our 

countdown of 

100 must-have travel 

experiences is still 

going strong. 

3Rooms with a 

view. Feast your 

eyes on these 

coveted rooms and 

suites with postcardworthy 

views. 


XXXXXXXXXXXXX 

Suite dreams 

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a 

suite that has a character and style all of its own 

Virginia Woolf Suite 

University Arms, Cambridge 

Fans of the celebrated British author will have 

plenty to write home about while staying in this 

sophisticated suite, which nods to the literary 

heroine with a library curated by Heywood Hill, 

one of London's leading bookshops, and a portrait 

of Woolf on the wall. Hints of Cambridge Blue, 

bespoke furniture and a statement chandelier 

enhance the property's quintessentially 

English heritage and the academic spirit of 

Cambridge (it has recently undergone a two-year 

refurbishment at the hands of Martin Brudnizki 

and John Simpson), so you don't have to look far 

to find your inspiration. 


Ronald Codrai © Department of Culture and Tourism - Abu Dhabi 

رونالد كودراي © دائرة الثقافة والسياحة - أبوظبي 

DISCOVER 

THE STORIES 

OF OUR NATION’S 

PROUD PAST. 

ABU DHABI’S 

LEGACY AND HISTORY. 

Qasr Al Hosn is the oldest and most significant building 

in Abu Dhabi. It includes the city’s first permanent 

structure, a coral and sea stone watch tower built to 

protect the settlement of Abu Dhabi established on the 

island in the 1760s. Qasr Al Hosn became home to the 

ruling family, a seat of government, and it now stands as 

our nation’s living monument, telling the story of 

Abu Dhabi and its people. 

Book your experience at qasralhosn.ae

World Traveller January 2019

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