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World Traveller December 2018

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INSPIRED BY<br />

ISSUE 128 | DECEMBER <strong>2018</strong> | COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />

Mexico calls<br />

Dreamy days in Riviera Maya<br />

Produced in Dubai Production City<br />

ISTANBUL<br />

INNSBRUCK<br />

EDINBURGH<br />

ABU DHABI


SEASON’S GREETINGS<br />

SEASON’S GREETINGS<br />

jaresortshotels.com @jatheresort @jatheresort


JA Jingle<br />

ALL THE WAY<br />

Get ready to ho ho ho and spend a<br />

magical festive season with us<br />

Christmas Tree Lighting: 13 th Dec | 6pm – 8pm<br />

Winter Wonderland: 13 th Dec – 9 th Jan 2019 | 4pm – 10pm<br />

Christmas Eve Dinner: 24 th Dec | 7pm – 11pm<br />

Christmas Lunch: 25 th Dec | 12.30pm – 3.30pm<br />

Sunset Pool Party: 28 th Dec | 7pm – 11pm<br />

New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner: 31 st Dec | 7pm till late<br />

New Year’s Resolution Brunch: 1 st Jan | 11am – 3.30pm<br />

Eastern Christmas Dinner: 6 th Jan | 6pm – 11pm<br />

For bookings or more information please contact us on:<br />

+971 4 814 5604 | restaurant.reservation@jaresorts.com<br />

SEASON’S GREETINGS


WELCOME<br />

NOTE<br />

THIS<br />

MONTH’S<br />

TRAVEL<br />

COMPANIONS<br />

As another year draws to a close – how time flies! – the places we've<br />

visited and the people we've met along the way have shaped us,<br />

which is what makes travelling such a valuable experience.<br />

The <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> team has ticked a fair few travel goals off<br />

the list, from a family-friendly holiday in Seminyak to a luxurious<br />

Managing Director<br />

Victoria Thatcher<br />

Editorial Director<br />

John Thatcher<br />

General Manager<br />

David Wade<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Faye Bartle<br />

faye@hotmediapublishing.com<br />

Content Writer<br />

Habiba Azab<br />

Art Director<br />

Kerri Bennett<br />

Senior Designer<br />

Hiral Kapadia<br />

Senior Advertising Manager<br />

Mia Cachero<br />

mia@hotmediapublishing.com<br />

Production Manager<br />

Muthu Kumar<br />

INSPIRED BY<br />

summer city break in the UK capital and a solo adventure to<br />

vibrant Thailand. We've enjoyed sharing a selection of our best<br />

travel stories – and those of our contributors – with you, and we<br />

hope that we have provided plenty of food for thought when it<br />

comes to organising your next trip.<br />

If you're looking to get away for holidays, turn to page 21<br />

where our travel insider Emily Williams highlights the best<br />

places to welcome in the New Year. If Edinburgh appeals, be<br />

sure to read our locals' guide (page 26), in which three insiders<br />

reveal the must-see sights and experiences. If you prefer to stay<br />

closer to home, our mini guide to Abu Dhabi (page 58), inspired<br />

by UAE National Day, highlights everything we love about the<br />

capital, including a few new discoveries. See you in 2019!<br />

Happy travels,<br />

Faye Bartle<br />

Find us at…<br />

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com<br />

FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine<br />

INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller<br />

TWITTER @WT_Magazine<br />

p22 Toro Toro's<br />

RICHARD SANDOVAL<br />

shares his best eats<br />

p24 Interior designer and<br />

author LEYLA ULUHANLI<br />

opens her travel journal<br />

p26 GARETH DAVIES<br />

tells us how to explore<br />

Edinburgh on foot<br />

Photography credits:<br />

Getty Images and Phocal Media<br />

Reproduction in whole or in part<br />

without written permission from<br />

HOT Media Publishing is strictly<br />

prohibited. All prices mentioned<br />

are correct at time of press<br />

but may change. HOT Media<br />

Publishing does not accept<br />

liability for omissions or errors in<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>.<br />

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876<br />

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494<br />

COVER IMAGE<br />

Hotel Esencia<br />

Win!<br />

Find out how you can<br />

win a three-night stay<br />

at Reethi Faru Resort<br />

in Maldives, on<br />

page 79<br />

p63 MICHELLE KARAM<br />

of Travel Junkie Diary,<br />

shares her great escapes<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 3


CONTENTS<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

19<br />

Velaa Private Island<br />

REGULARS<br />

8 15 21 22<br />

TRAVEL GOALS<br />

GLOBETROTTER<br />

TRENDING DESTINATIONS<br />

CHEF’S TOP TABLES<br />

From the Abu Dhabi desert to<br />

Wild travel experiences, feel-<br />

dnata Travel’s Emily Williams<br />

Richard Sandoval transports us<br />

a frosted lake in Hangzhou and<br />

good breaks and new adventures<br />

selects the best places to<br />

to his favourite restaurants in<br />

the forests of Karnataka<br />

on your doorstep<br />

welcome in the New Year<br />

Miami, Mexico City and New York<br />

24 26 80<br />

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED<br />

Interior designer and author Leyla<br />

Uluhanli shares the trips that<br />

inspire her, in work and in life<br />

THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO EDINBURGH<br />

Three insiders share the best arts and<br />

culture spots, foodie delights and mustsee<br />

sights of this vibrant city<br />

SUITE DREAMS<br />

Get into the bohemian vibe of the<br />

Left Bank at the boutique Hotel<br />

Montalembert in Paris<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 5


CONTENTS<br />

40<br />

Istanbul<br />

32<br />

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER<br />

Ancient temples, mystic caves, weird<br />

critters: Mexico’s Riviera Maya serves<br />

up surreal, unforgettable adventures<br />

FEATURES<br />

40<br />

GOLDEN TIMES<br />

In revisiting Istanbul, Nick Redman<br />

finds himself reunited<br />

with his old flame<br />

48<br />

SNEAK PEAK<br />

With futuristic architecture and<br />

mountains all around, Innsbruck is a<br />

city break and a ski holiday in one<br />

WEEKENDS<br />

58 63 64 73<br />

A LONG WEEKEND<br />

IN ABU DHABI<br />

We shine a light on the UAE<br />

capital’s enduring appeal<br />

MY GREAT ESCAPES<br />

Michelle Karam, founder<br />

of Travel Junkie Diary, shares<br />

her best adventures<br />

STAYCATIONS<br />

Enjoy a well-deserved<br />

weekend away at these<br />

luxurious hotels and resorts<br />

READER OFFERS<br />

Take advantage of<br />

our exclusive deals for<br />

your next adventure<br />

6 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


Inspiration. Expertly crafted.<br />

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel,<br />

is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for<br />

a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites,<br />

over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams,<br />

a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities,<br />

as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.<br />

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai<br />

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW<br />

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com


8 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


TRAVEL GOALS<br />

THE EMPTY QUARTER,<br />

ABU DHABI<br />

The world's largest sand desert, on the outskirts of the<br />

emirate, is the place to live out your Arabian dreams.<br />

Journey to Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, which<br />

appears like a mirage amid the dunes, but don’t be fooled<br />

by the stillness of the landscape. This luxurious oasis is<br />

an adventure-seeker’s playground, offering thrilling fourwheel<br />

drives across the shifting sands, the chance to fly<br />

down the dunes on a sandboard, or saddle-up an Arabian<br />

stallion for a gallop along the winding trails. Sequester<br />

yourself away in a Royal Pavilion Pool Villa, set in a<br />

secluded spot, with golden hues as far as the eye can see.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 9


10 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />

TAKE ME THERE


TRAVEL GOALS<br />

WEST LAKE, HANGZHOU<br />

This serene freshwater lake in Hangzhou is<br />

mesmerising at any time of year but in the winter,<br />

when the snow falls, it is transformed into a<br />

wonderland of icy delights. The magical dusting is<br />

a novel draw for locals, who eagerly await a seasonal<br />

deluge of snowflakes, although the lake's classic<br />

beauty means it can become crowded at the best of<br />

times. Avoid the throngs by venturing out early in the<br />

morning. Simply walking or biking around the bank<br />

is the best way to appreciate its allure, including the<br />

picturesque gardens dotted with pavilions. No wonder<br />

the city once captured the heart of Marco Polo.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 11


12 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />

TAKE ME THERE


TRAVEL GOALS<br />

KOLLUR, KARNATAKA<br />

A vehicle weaves its way along the track that bisects the<br />

dense forest of this small temple-town situated at the<br />

foot of the Western Ghats, a UNESCO <strong>World</strong> Heritage<br />

Site. Usually 50 shades of green, this infrared photograph<br />

(taken by drone) washes the landscape with a purple haze,<br />

highlighting the array of hues of the foliage. It’s a popular<br />

spot for hikers. Indeed, there are many trails established<br />

in the national parks and sanctuaries of Karnataka, where<br />

groups led by a Forest Department guide are offered an<br />

education in the area’s rich flora and fauna, with the option<br />

to stay overnight in the rest houses of the jungle.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 13


DECEMBER<br />

Globetrotter<br />

Be informed, be inspired, be there<br />

THE MOST<br />

DELIGHTFUL STAY<br />

Inspired by the new Mary<br />

Poppins Returns film, The<br />

Kensington hotel in London<br />

is offering parents some<br />

well-deserved respite with<br />

its new Imperial Nannies<br />

package. Check into a top<br />

suite and you'll be matched<br />

with a multilingual au pair<br />

who’ll swoop in to look after<br />

your children for 12 hours a<br />

day, complete with a carpet<br />

bag full of surprises and fun<br />

excursions included. It’s<br />

practically perfect in every<br />

way. Available to book from<br />

21 Dec <strong>2018</strong> to 31 Mar 2019.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 15


GLOBETROTTER<br />

THE ANIMAL KINGDOM<br />

Be a wild one<br />

Tick these amazing animal experiences<br />

off your bucket list…<br />

Anantara Golden<br />

Triangle Elephant<br />

Camp & Resort<br />

THAILAND<br />

Walking with elephants<br />

If you’ve always dreamed<br />

of walking with elephants,<br />

Anantara Golden Triangle<br />

Elephant Camp & Resort,<br />

located on a jungle ridge<br />

in the Golden Triangle in<br />

northern Thailand, will deliver<br />

an encounter to remember.<br />

Home to a herd of rescued<br />

elephants, you can take part<br />

in the Walking with Giants<br />

experience, which includes<br />

two hours spent with the<br />

majestic mammals in their<br />

natural surroundings with their<br />

mahouts (keepers) and a vet<br />

or biologist. Wander with them<br />

through the jungle and learn<br />

more about their habitat and<br />

habits, or simply enjoy their<br />

peaceful presence.<br />

INDIA<br />

Step into The Jungle Book<br />

Would-be Mowgli’s can trek<br />

deep into the jungle that<br />

inspired the original The<br />

Jungle Book thanks to Taj<br />

Safaris’ dedicated Wildlife<br />

Escape. Be among the first<br />

to venture into the recently<br />

re-opened jungles of Central<br />

India: the aforementioned<br />

Baghvan in Pench National<br />

Park, Mahua Kothi in<br />

Bandhavgarh National Park,<br />

Pashan Garh in Panna National<br />

Park and Banjaar Tola in Kanha<br />

Mahua Kothi in<br />

Bandhavgarh<br />

National Park. Take an early<br />

morning four-wheel drive tour<br />

with a resident naturalist to<br />

spot the wildlife that inspired<br />

Rudyard Kipling’s characters,<br />

including the famous Sher<br />

Khan – the Royal Bengal Tiger<br />

– followed by high tea at the<br />

lodge and evenings spent<br />

around the campfire listening<br />

for animal calls. Available at all<br />

Taj Safari lodges in India.<br />

STRETCH YOUR PAWS<br />

If you rarely leave home without your canine companion, a glamorous trip to Monaco<br />

may just win you over. The tourism board has unveiled bespoke itineraries for pooches<br />

and their owners, with seven of its nine hotels offering dog-friendly services and<br />

packages. From Monacair’s direct helicopter transfers from Nice airport (it takes just<br />

seven-minutes, so is ideal for restless pets) to Hotel de Paris, which welcomes you with<br />

a plush dog bed, food and toys, and the decadent pet-friendly menu at Le Méridien<br />

Beach Plaza, your fur baby will be chasing his tail with excitement.<br />

16 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


Wellness Haven at Saray Spa.<br />

Renew for the journey ahead.<br />

A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient<br />

healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest.<br />

The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, one Dead Sea treatment room boasting<br />

the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two Private Luxury Spa Suites.<br />

Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from<br />

the results-oriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion.<br />

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE<br />

T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com


GLOBETROTTER<br />

ESCAPE TO THE<br />

MOUNTAINS<br />

Why these destinations are peaking…<br />

SKIING IN<br />

AZERBAIJAN<br />

Now until March is ski<br />

season in Azerbaijan.<br />

You’ll find the best<br />

resorts at Shahdag<br />

and Gabala but, for<br />

more challenging<br />

pistes, try the black<br />

runs at Tufandag<br />

Resort. Stay at Qafqaz<br />

Tufandag Mountain<br />

Resort Hotel, which<br />

has a rope-way<br />

passing by that’ll take<br />

you straight to the<br />

mountain ski centre.<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

IN HATTA<br />

Thrill-seekers can get<br />

their kicks at Meraas'<br />

new Hatta Wadi Hub,<br />

where you can test<br />

your skills at ziplining,<br />

mountain biking, wall<br />

climbing and even<br />

axe throwing, among<br />

other activities before<br />

braving the shoots at<br />

Hatta Drop-in (Asia’s<br />

first water jump park).<br />

Stay the night by<br />

glamping at Hatta<br />

Damani Lodges.<br />

STARGAZING<br />

IN OMAN<br />

There’s a mega meteor<br />

shower this month.<br />

To view the shooting<br />

stars, head to Alila<br />

Jabal Akhdar in the<br />

Al Hajar Mountains,<br />

where astronomer<br />

Mike Dalley is<br />

hosting stargazing<br />

masterclasses leading<br />

up to and during the<br />

peak of the big event.<br />

The best days to see<br />

it are 14 and 15 Dec at<br />

around 2am.<br />

NEW OF NOTE<br />

Bluewaters Dubai<br />

What’s it all about? The site of the<br />

world’s largest observation wheel,<br />

Ain Dubai, this oasis off the coast of<br />

Dubai Marina has opened the drawbridge<br />

to visitors.<br />

What’s the vibe? For a small island,<br />

it has an edgy urban buzz, with<br />

residences, hotels, and plenty of shops<br />

and restaurants to keep you busy, all<br />

connected by pedestrian-friendly areas.<br />

How do I get there? By car, boat or foot.<br />

There’s a direct road line to Sheikh Zayed<br />

Road, pedestrian access from The Beach<br />

opposite JBR, and an RTA-operated water<br />

taxi service.<br />

How shall I explore? Head to shopping<br />

and dining hub The Wharf to check out<br />

the eclectic mix of cafés, restaurants and<br />

bistros. Next, stroll along Central Avenue,<br />

which borders the landside of The Wharf,<br />

before heading to North Walk and Wharf<br />

Avenue, which edge the waterfront,<br />

circling Ain Dubai Plaza beneath the<br />

observation wheel.<br />

Can I stay there? For sure. The island’s<br />

trio of non-gaming resorts – Caesars<br />

Palace Bluewaters Dubai, The Residences<br />

at Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai<br />

(serviced apartments) and Caesars Resort<br />

Bluewaters Dubai – offer a luxurious<br />

experience. Dine at Gordon Ramsay's<br />

Hell’s Kitchen, be pampered at Qua Spa,<br />

and chill at private beach club Cove Beach.<br />

A MALDIVIAN MILESTONE<br />

Velaa Private Island is celebrating its<br />

fifth anniversary this month, with a<br />

wow line-up of activities and events,<br />

including sports tournaments and a<br />

party taking place on 20 <strong>December</strong>,<br />

featuring Czech violincellist Tereza<br />

Kovalova and a gourmet food journey<br />

courtesy of Chef Gaushan de Silva.<br />

Happy Anniversary!<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 19


GLOBETROTTER<br />

US$18.7<br />

BILLION<br />

THE AMOUNT<br />

THAT’S EXPECTED<br />

TO BE SPENT ON<br />

WELLNESS TRIPS<br />

BY THOSE IN MENA<br />

IN 2022, AN 11.8%<br />

GROWTH<br />

ON 2017*<br />

Kneipp path hydrotherapy treatment area,<br />

Clinique La Prairie<br />

A RESORT ON<br />

OUR RADAR<br />

Family-friendly staycation<br />

favourite, JA Jebel Ali<br />

Golf Resort, has been<br />

renamed as JA The<br />

Resort, Jebel Ali Beach,<br />

Dubai. Home to three<br />

properties – JA Beach<br />

Hotel, JA Palm Tree Court<br />

and JA Lake View Hotel<br />

(opening in September<br />

2019) – there’s plenty<br />

to keep you occupied,<br />

including an 800-metre<br />

private beach, four<br />

landscaped swimming<br />

pools, over 16 restaurants<br />

and bars, and the David<br />

Leadbetter Golf Academy<br />

where you can learn this<br />

coaching master’s simple<br />

philosophy for teaching<br />

the golf swing.<br />

Feel-good trips<br />

Replenish your end-of-year energy reserves with a restorative<br />

break away at these leading wellbeing destinations…<br />

FOR A WINTER BOOST:<br />

Team mind-clearing scenery<br />

with a holistic approach<br />

to wellbeing at Clinique<br />

La Prairie Switzerland. Its<br />

Winter Boost Program,<br />

available until March 2019,<br />

helps combat the winter<br />

blues with five nights of<br />

expert pampering, including<br />

daily winter infusions and<br />

deep tissue massages.<br />

FOR THE SLEEP-DEPRIVED:<br />

Not catching enough zzz’s?<br />

The new Bedtime Rituals &<br />

Sleeping Therapy stay package<br />

at Mandarin Oriental, Milan can<br />

help you get a good night’s<br />

rest. Unwind with the inroom<br />

Oriental Sleeping Ritual<br />

massage and, with a spritz<br />

of your sleep-inducing pillow<br />

spray, settle in for a stretch of<br />

undisturbed shut-eye.<br />

FOR FAMILIES: The spa<br />

town of Druskininkai in<br />

Lithuania, known for its<br />

mineral waters, curative<br />

mud and squeaky clean<br />

air, takes a family-friendly<br />

approach to wellbeing,<br />

with yoga for kids, lots of<br />

nature-based experiences<br />

and child-friendly facilities,<br />

such as the steam bath at<br />

Druskininkai Aquapark.<br />

Featuring handy to-do and packing lists, curated<br />

itineraries, space for travel notes and full colour<br />

world maps to doodle on, the cross-grain lambskin<br />

Smythson Off the Beaten Track Travel Journal is a<br />

great stocking filler for adventurers. smythson.com<br />

*Source: GWI’s Global Wellness Tourism Economy report<br />

20 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


TRENDING<br />

DESTINATIONS<br />

Party hats on: dnata Travel’s resident<br />

globetrotter Emily Williams knows<br />

the best places to welcome in 2019<br />

Travelling to Scotland’s historic capital<br />

has never been easier with the launch of<br />

direct flights from Dubai to Edinburgh<br />

with Emirates. In winter, when the nights<br />

are longer, the city bursts into life with<br />

festive market stalls and a torch-lit<br />

procession that kicks off its famous<br />

Hogmanay celebrations for New Year’s<br />

Eve, culminating in a vivid finale that<br />

illuminates Edinburgh Castle. Turn to<br />

page 26 to read our locals’ guide.<br />

The weather is perfect in Hong<br />

Kong in <strong>December</strong>, the last month of<br />

its traditional high season, making it<br />

a great time to go hiking in the hills<br />

and valleys. Its dramatic city skyline<br />

attracts visitors to see its spectacular<br />

countdown to the New Year, which<br />

concludes with a dazzling pyrotechnic<br />

dragon dancing across the sky.<br />

New York City transforms into a<br />

magical winter wonderland at this time<br />

of year. Take a walk through Central Park<br />

where the frozen lake becomes an ice<br />

rink – you can even go sledging there.<br />

More than one million people gather at<br />

Times Square for its atmospheric New<br />

Year’s Eve celebrations. A boat ride<br />

on New York Harbour is an alternative<br />

experience, offering the best view of the<br />

firework display at the Statue of Liberty.<br />

It’s summer in Sydney and therefore<br />

a great time to enjoy the beach life<br />

with the locals. To fully appreciate the<br />

scenery, try the coastal walk from the<br />

beaches of Bondi to Coogee. Due to<br />

its location, Sydney is one of the first<br />

major world cities where the clock<br />

strikes midnight to mark the New Year<br />

and the firework display at the iconic<br />

Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney<br />

Opera House is sure to impress.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 21


FOOD<br />

CHEF’S TOP TABLES<br />

Chef, restaurateur and TV personality Richard Sandoval heads restaurants across the<br />

globe, including Dubai's Pan-Latin favourite Toro Toro<br />

On my<br />

wish list…<br />

Gaggan, in Bangkok. Chef<br />

Anand Gaggan is known for<br />

his experiential progressive<br />

Indian tasting menu and for<br />

offering his guests a warm<br />

Thai welcome. It was recently<br />

voted 'Asia's Best<br />

Restaurant'.<br />

KYU<br />

Miami<br />

I really like this place, an upscale<br />

Asian-American eatery employing<br />

sustainable cooking techniques in<br />

the heart of eclectic Wynwood in<br />

Miami. The chef, Michael Lewis,<br />

is well travelled and he uses those<br />

experiences to influence his woodgrilled<br />

cuisine. Here, he applies the<br />

Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi<br />

– the art of finding perfection in<br />

something imperfect.<br />

FAVOURITE DISH: Tuna tataki<br />

with fermented chili and citrus.<br />

MÁXIMO BISTROT<br />

Mexico City<br />

Chef Eduardo García’s Máximo<br />

Bistrot, which he runs alongside<br />

his wife, showcases local<br />

ingredients from farms around<br />

Mexico City, including the famed<br />

floating gardens of Xochimilco.<br />

Their devotion to all things local<br />

extends to the furniture, while the<br />

menu (the likes of crab soup with<br />

creole corn) changes daily based on<br />

what's in season and available.<br />

FAVOURITE DISH: Deep-water<br />

prawn with chicatana.<br />

ELEVEN<br />

MADISON PARK<br />

New York<br />

In a city where dining trends<br />

change frequently, Eleven<br />

Madison Park is always among<br />

the top tables – it's the current<br />

holder of the 'Best Restaurant in<br />

North America' title. It serves an<br />

8-10 course, modern European<br />

seasonal tasting menu that draws<br />

inspiration from New York to add<br />

a touch of the inventive.<br />

FAVOURITE DISH: Smoked<br />

sturgeon cheesecake with caviar.<br />

COME DINE WITH ME...<br />

Toro Toro, a play on the Spanish word for bull, sets the stage for an artful blend of Pan-<br />

Latin flavours and features amazing cuts of beef cooked in our churrasco grill. I invite you<br />

to sample my unique spin on South and Central American ingredients and flavours, as<br />

you taste your way through an array of savoury small plates.<br />

22 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


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PERSONALITY<br />

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED<br />

LEYLA<br />

ULUHANLI<br />

The interior designer and author<br />

lays open her travel journal<br />

I consider myself very lucky to have<br />

grown up in the ancient city of Baku.<br />

Some of my earliest memories are<br />

of the grand architecture of the old<br />

palaces and sacred mosques. I also had<br />

the chance to experience the exquisite<br />

décor of some of the best private<br />

homes in the city. In many ways, the<br />

city continues to speak to me now and<br />

is largely reflected in my work.<br />

I constantly draw inspiration<br />

from the amazing spirit, people and<br />

architecture of Moscow, where I live.<br />

I love working on interiors projects<br />

there, especially in the older parts of<br />

the city, filled with historic buildings<br />

so deeply intertwined with the lives of<br />

artists, poets and actors.<br />

I spent eight years capturing the<br />

mosque photography for my book,<br />

visiting a selection of world-renowned<br />

mosques and discovering their<br />

intricate patterns and ornaments.<br />

Córdoba in Spain impacted me the<br />

most – its Grand Mosque is an exquisite<br />

and rare gem of Moorish architecture.<br />

The materials and patterns used for<br />

the decoration are out of this world,<br />

and the place presents an amazing<br />

example of a harmonious union<br />

between East and West.<br />

I’m a citizen of the world, so I don’t<br />

have a favourite destination, but I love<br />

the sea and the ocean. These places<br />

bring me calm and bliss, allowing me<br />

to recharge and get ready for my next<br />

work marathon.<br />

A place that’s still on my wish<br />

list is Polynesia. It’s somewhat of a<br />

childhood dream to visit an exotic<br />

place so far away; something you have<br />

only seen or read about in books. Plus,<br />

it seems like a great vacation spot.<br />

Leyla’s book, Mosques: Splendors of<br />

Islam, published by Rizzoli New York,<br />

is out now<br />

Photo © Cristina Mittermeier<br />

24 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


LOCALS’ GUIDE<br />

THE LOCALS' GUIDE TO<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Revel in the history, culture and creative energy<br />

that gives Scotland’s capital its vibrant character<br />

26 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


LOCALS’ GUIDE<br />

STEP TO IT<br />

Gareth Davies runs<br />

Edinburgh Expert<br />

Walking tours,<br />

taking visitors<br />

under the skin<br />

of the city<br />

edinburghexpert.com<br />

Historic Victoria Street. Photograph<br />

© VisitScotland / Kenny Lam<br />

Visitors are often surprised to learn that<br />

Edinburgh’s New Town is more than 250<br />

years old. They are even more intrigued<br />

when I tell them that the Old Town was<br />

largely rebuilt in the 19th century, so much<br />

of it is more recent than the New Town.<br />

But that’s Edinburgh. It's a city of contrasts<br />

that’s very different throughout the year, so<br />

there’s always an element of the unexpected.<br />

The site was first settled around 3500<br />

years ago and much of the city’s layout harks<br />

back to earlier times with narrow lanes,<br />

cobbled backstreets and bridges that can<br />

be a challenge to navigate – something the<br />

guidebooks don’t prepare you for. Although<br />

I've walked some of the streets hundreds of<br />

times, I still notice new features, and can<br />

find new stories to tell.<br />

The areas I most enjoy showing off are<br />

around the New Town. Many visitors never<br />

look beyond the Royal Mile and Old Town,<br />

so this feels like a whole other side of the<br />

city that people don't expect – it has its own<br />

character and style, a host of history and<br />

culture and some fantastic Georgian-era<br />

architecture. It’s something of a hidden<br />

gem, hiding in plain sight.<br />

My favourite stop-offs? The Scottish<br />

Parliament building, due to its weirdly<br />

wonderful sense of style, as well as<br />

Advocate's Close, one of the narrow lanes<br />

off the Royal Mile, for its spectacular views,<br />

mixture of ancient and modern buildings,<br />

and stories of the historical figures who<br />

have lived there. There's so much to see and<br />

talk about on that single alleyway.<br />

If you have more time, head north of the<br />

New Town to Stockbridge to check out its<br />

independent shops, cafés and restaurants,<br />

before making your way along the Water of<br />

Leith to the historic Dean Village to view<br />

its picturesque 17th-century buildings.<br />

South of the Royal Mile is George Square<br />

and Bristo Square, home to some of the<br />

historic buildings of Edinburgh University,<br />

including the iconic Old College quad<br />

designed by Edinburgh's greatest architects,<br />

Robert Adam and William Playfair.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 27


Scottish National Portrait Gallery interior views<br />

© Keith Hunter & National Galleries of Scotland<br />

Literary fans can<br />

sip a brew at The Elephant<br />

House tea and coffee shop<br />

in the historic quarter,<br />

which authors including J.K.<br />

Rowling and Ian Rankin<br />

have used as a<br />

writing den<br />

ON THE<br />

FRINGE<br />

Shona McCarthy,<br />

chief executive<br />

of the Edinburgh<br />

Festival Fringe<br />

Society, talks art<br />

and culture<br />

1The Edinburgh Fringe Festival,<br />

which takes place every August,<br />

brings together acts and audiences<br />

from all over the world to create an<br />

international melting pot of arts and<br />

culture, from theatre and comedy to<br />

circus, opera, children's shows and<br />

spoken word performances. There’s<br />

nothing quite like wandering through<br />

the city when the Fringe is on and<br />

soaking up the electric atmosphere.<br />

2The impact of the festival is<br />

felt keenly through the year,<br />

with many Fringe artists and<br />

companies adding to a thriving local<br />

creative scene that has transformed<br />

the city into a bucket-list<br />

destination for anyone who<br />

is passionate about the arts.<br />

There are events all year<br />

round, from the Edinburgh<br />

International Science<br />

Festival in April through to<br />

Hogmanay, which rounds<br />

off the annual cultural<br />

offering at the turn of the<br />

New Year – it's always a hive of activity.<br />

3<br />

There are lots of amazing<br />

galleries featuring all kinds of<br />

art and exhibitions, both past<br />

and present. Some favourites include<br />

the Scottish National Portrait Gallery<br />

and the Scottish National Gallery. The<br />

former tells the story of Scotland and<br />

its people with portraits of historical<br />

figures such as Mary Queen of Scots<br />

and Robert Burns, while the National<br />

Gallery has an outstanding fine art<br />

collection, including masterpieces<br />

by Botticelli, Rembrandt, Monet and<br />

Van Gogh, among many others.<br />

The Elephant House<br />

Photo © VisitScotland / Kenny Lam<br />

4The National Museum of<br />

Scotland is another must-see,<br />

with fascinating permanent<br />

exhibits from nature, science, art,<br />

design, fashion and more. Here, you<br />

can find out more about the history<br />

of the area, from pre-history to the<br />

present day, in the Scottish galleries.<br />

5<br />

People often talk about there<br />

being a sense of an artistic<br />

community in the city, one that is<br />

not bound by geography or nationality,<br />

but can give a real sense of belonging<br />

in a different way. What better reason<br />

to visit Edinburgh this winter?<br />

WORDS BY OLIVIA CUTHBERT<br />

28 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


LOCALS’ GUIDE<br />

TRADITIONAL<br />

TASTES<br />

Matthew Korecki,<br />

owner of popular<br />

family-run<br />

restaurant New<br />

Chapter, unravels<br />

the foodie scene<br />

Local flavour<br />

There’s a huge number of independent<br />

restaurants in Edinburgh. People<br />

here tend to seek out hidden gems<br />

– the tucked-away places that serve<br />

incredible food with personalised<br />

service – rather than going for what they<br />

already know with chain restaurants.<br />

New and noteworthy<br />

The restaurant scene is growing rapidly,<br />

with new venues opening every week, so<br />

the quality of the produce, dishes and<br />

service is constantly on the rise. There<br />

has also been an uplift in the number<br />

of dining destinations serving fantastic<br />

global cuisine, be it Swedish, Hungarian,<br />

Nepalese, Filipino or Caribbean food.<br />

Scottish classics<br />

Our elegant sister restaurant Otro,<br />

in the West End, is very popular with<br />

those who want to taste Scottish<br />

ingredients. The Kilted Lobster in<br />

Stockbridge is perfect if you’re in the<br />

mood for seafood, and if you needed<br />

convincing, all profits go towards the<br />

Cooking Up A Storm project to fight food<br />

poverty. For fine dining, I recommend<br />

Restaurant Martin Wishart on The<br />

Shore for a Michelin-star experience.<br />

Quirky cuisine<br />

The Full Moon Dinners at the Secret<br />

Herb Garden on Old Pentland Road are a<br />

magical experience where diners eat in a<br />

beautiful greenhouse by the light of the<br />

moon. Six By Nico on Hanover Street is a<br />

great option too, with themed six-course<br />

tasting menus that change every six<br />

weeks, serving wonderfully creative food.<br />

Market fare<br />

For coffee and cake, The Stockbridge<br />

Market is always a treat. For street food,<br />

head to The Pitt in Leith, which has great<br />

vibes and innovative street food vendors<br />

serving amazing bites every weekend.<br />

Secret Herb<br />

Garden's Full<br />

Moon Dinners<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 29


WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA EASTERN MANGROVES<br />

Life on the edge<br />

For an urban escape in a lush lagoon setting,<br />

Anantara Eastern Mangroves leads the way<br />

Situated on the outskirts of<br />

central Abu Dhabi, along a scenic<br />

stretch of protected mangroves,<br />

this coveted hotel is ideal for those<br />

who want to team outdoor pursuits<br />

with a spot of city sightseeing.<br />

It’s just a 10-minute drive from<br />

downtown, yet Anantara Eastern<br />

Mangroves feels a world away from the<br />

hustle and bustle of the city, with its<br />

waterfront location lending a tranquil vibe.<br />

Make the most of the views by booking<br />

a suite with a view of the lagoons so you<br />

can soak up the surrounds from your<br />

private balcony. Plump for an Anantara<br />

Mangroves Pool Suite, which can<br />

accommodate up to two adults and one<br />

child, and you'll wake up to lush lagoon<br />

views. Make the most of the winter sun<br />

by unwinding on your private terrace<br />

before taking a dip in your plunge pool.<br />

If you’ve got energy to burn, take<br />

a kayak out to explore the mangrove<br />

reserve. Guided tours are available to<br />

ensure you don't miss a thing – herons,<br />

foxes and turtles can usually be spotted.<br />

Stand-up paddleboarding is also on<br />

offer, and there’s a promenade bordering<br />

the waterway (the city’s old corniche)<br />

that’s ideal for jogging and cycling.<br />

A FIVE-STAR SPA<br />

Dedicated spa-goers are sure to be<br />

impressed by the traditional treatments<br />

on offer at Anantara Spa, which is<br />

especially well-known for its signature<br />

hammam rituals. Inspired by the ancient<br />

Turkish bathing tradition, the journey<br />

begins on the warm stone, with time to<br />

bask in the heat, followed by a body buff<br />

with a traditional kese mitt to prep the<br />

skin for receiving the hydrating suds.<br />

After rinsing, you’ll receive a<br />

circulation-pepping scrub followed by<br />

a purifying clay mask. Even your hair<br />

and scalp are given the royal cleansing<br />

30 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


Pachaylen<br />

Anantara Spa<br />

A room with a mangrove view<br />

treatment, with a pressure point face and<br />

head massage to lull you into a deep sense<br />

of relaxation. An olive foam massage and<br />

coffee body polish followed by a cooling<br />

rinse complete this blissful 60-minute<br />

pamper session. However, we highly<br />

recommend that you upgrade with a full<br />

body massage using argan infused oil for<br />

an additional full hour of relaxation.<br />

ALL IN GOOD TASTE<br />

Another draw card is the hotel’s dining<br />

credentials. Its popular Thai restaurant,<br />

Pachaylen, invites you to taste authentic<br />

cuisine in a refined setting. A traditional<br />

kim player sets the tone as contemporarystyled<br />

delights, such as aromatic curries<br />

and spicy salads, are brought to your<br />

table. If you’re unsure what to choose,<br />

simply go with the enduring favourites<br />

of tom yam soup and pad Thai noodles.<br />

For sunset views, head to Impressions<br />

on the rooftop, which serves signature<br />

drinks from 7pm to 2am daily. And if<br />

you’re keen to boost your cooking skills,<br />

you can take part in a Spice Spoons<br />

Middle Eastern and Thai cooking class,<br />

which will take you to Al Mina Fish<br />

Market and the vegetable market across<br />

the road to shop for fresh ingredients.<br />

Back at the resort, a top chef will guide<br />

you with step-by-step instructions<br />

for preparing delicious dishes, giving<br />

you a new skill to take back home.<br />

To find out more, call +971 2 656 1000<br />

or visit anantara.com<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 31


32 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


MEXICO<br />

Take me to to the river<br />

Ancient temples, mystic caves, weird<br />

critters (in the water and on the menu:<br />

Mexico’s Riviera Maya serves up surreal<br />

unforgettable adventures – mere footsteps<br />

from the Caribbean’s most dreamily<br />

relaxing beaches, says Ed Grenby<br />

this is where they were beheaded,<br />

their lifeblood cascading down the<br />

steps of the pyramid in front of you.’<br />

I’ve been to the Caribbean a few<br />

‘And<br />

times – hell, I’m the kind of loser<br />

who even goes off on those half-day historic tours of<br />

dockyards and distilleries and other such thrillers – but<br />

I’ve never heard those words from a tour guide before.<br />

That, I suppose, is because I’ve never been to<br />

Mexico’s Riviera Maya before, contenting myself<br />

instead with circuits of Barbados, Antigua and<br />

Jamaica (‘... and this is where the barrels would<br />

be stored before bottling and labelling ...’).<br />

This year, though, looking for something a little more<br />

exciting – a little less ‘barrel warehouse’, you might say<br />

– I strayed one swipe further down the ‘Caribbean’ page<br />

of the tour operator’s website, and ended up here,<br />

on the eastern edge of Mexico, where the sacrificial<br />

altars of the ancients and the otherworldly natural<br />

wonders of the Yucatan are bordered with beaches<br />

that are every bit as good as Barbados’s and are<br />

washed by the self-same calm Caribbean Sea.<br />

And, truth be told, I didn’t leave those beaches for<br />

the first four days of my fortnight. Well, why would I?<br />

Cloud-soft sand shelved at a perfect 10-degree angle into<br />

waters as warm as a mother’s welcome; and, even with<br />

my shades on, the sea’s blue and the sand’s white and the<br />

fringing forest’s green were literally, squintingly dazzling.<br />

Frigate birds soared and searing-yellow kiskadees<br />

chirped, their high, ringing song as exuberant as the<br />

frigates’ flight. Sea turtles, too, showed their appreciation<br />

of the place, their nests bulging in the sand; and behind<br />

the beach, around my hotel’s two elegantly understated<br />

aquamarine swimming pools, iguanas lazed on the<br />

paths, lordly and unmoving, as if to say, ‘My kind<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 33


MEXICO<br />

has been around since the dinosaurs,<br />

hombre. You can make way for me.’<br />

I wanted my adventure to have a big<br />

dollop of ‘easy’, and Hotel Esencia delivered<br />

on both. It’s a sprinkling of cool, white,<br />

slightly hacienda-style houses and lawns<br />

carved from the jungle, but the luxury<br />

and quiet good taste have a raffish edge.<br />

So there is discreet abstract art and posh<br />

coffee-table books, but also driftwood<br />

bannisters and hammocks slung beneath<br />

the thatched, open-walled palapa huts,<br />

while elegant lamps hang seductively<br />

from trees beside wild coconuts.<br />

The location is Xpu-Ha (amazingly, just<br />

an hour’s drive down the coast from noisy<br />

Cancuń); the ‘X’, I eventually work out, is<br />

pronounced ‘sh’, like the shhhushing of<br />

the wavelets. It’s so hypnotically perfect<br />

that even the daily deposit of algae on the<br />

sand seems appealing once I learn that it’s<br />

actually sargasso (sounds so much more<br />

romantic than ‘seaweed’, no?). But when,<br />

accidentally up early one morning, I see<br />

the sargasso being carefully, cossetingly<br />

hand-cleared from the beach by hotel<br />

staff, I know I’m going to have to look a<br />

little further afield if I want any of the<br />

‘edge’ I’d abandoned Barbados for.<br />

A quick coach trip to Cobá, however,<br />

and I’ve got edge by the bucketful (it’s<br />

here the lifeblood did its cascading thing).<br />

An important Mayan city from the 1st<br />

century AD to the 15th, it’s now a cluster of<br />

stone ruins looming enigmatically from<br />

the middle of a million miles of jungle.<br />

The biggest is the pyramid of devotion<br />

to honey (Why did he get such kudos?<br />

Because the stuff was an important<br />

ingredient in Mayan cement, apparently.<br />

Though once you’ve tasted the local honey,<br />

rich and intense, no explanation for its<br />

status is needed. In fact, it’s a wonder<br />

they ever built anything above one storey<br />

without licking it into ruin.) Incredibly,<br />

you’re allowed to climb the pyramid, and<br />

the experience is unforgettable – not so<br />

much for the views (an infinite ocean of<br />

green treetops) as for the hairs-on-theback-of-your-neck<br />

tingle of knowing that<br />

others once looked down exultantly from<br />

the same spot, but for them it wasn’t<br />

the pride of summiting the 120 steps,<br />

but the eye-bulging, ecstatic madness<br />

of the decapitator or willing decapitee.<br />

Even weirder than the weirdness,<br />

though, is the fact that (given the<br />

weirdness) it’s so pleasant here. The site<br />

is too big to navigate on foot, so people<br />

hire bikes or get chauffeured around on<br />

passenger trikes by their guides, and<br />

the atmosphere is more weekend cycle<br />

in the park than lingering echo of ritual<br />

murder. A five-minute pedal down a<br />

shady path is Cobá’s poc-ta-poc court,<br />

where matches of the Mayans’ get-theball-through-the-hoop-using-only-yourhips<br />

game could go on for days before<br />

reaching their climax with, obviously,<br />

the sacrifice of the winning coach. And<br />

instead of horror, all I can think of is<br />

whether England's coach Gareth Southgate<br />

would be prepared to go all the way and<br />

get his trademark waistcoat bloody.<br />

So the adventure comes pretty easy<br />

round these parts, but the easy can be<br />

adventurous, too. Even international<br />

luxury hotel brands have a dash of<br />

local fizz in their DNA here, and the<br />

Rosewood, where I’m staying next, is<br />

essentially a vast mangrove lagoon that<br />

just happens to have a few (also fairly<br />

vast) rooms scattered around it.<br />

In mine, the cheapest category, as well<br />

as the (count ’em!) indoor bathroom,<br />

outdoor bathroom, walled garden, roof<br />

terrace, sun deck and plunge pool, there’s<br />

a lovely little wooden boat dock on stilts<br />

above the lagoon, where you can see<br />

nothing but jungle and convince yourself<br />

you’re an intrepid explorer. Indeed, if<br />

you sit still there for 30 seconds, you’ve<br />

got a pretty decent chance of spotting<br />

cormorants, iguanas, raccoons, turtles<br />

and, if you’re really lucky, baby crocodiles<br />

(they’re ‘taken somewhere safe’ when<br />

34 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


Opening pages: a<br />

colourful trajinera floats<br />

down a canal. This<br />

page, clockwise from<br />

top left: enjoying an ice<br />

This page: The view from the<br />

cream; Toltec temple<br />

historic area of Candelaria<br />

ruins in Tula; Rosewood<br />

Mayakoba Riviera Maya<br />

Opposite: Contemporary art<br />

in Iglesia de Santa Clara<br />

MEXICO<br />

‘Caves lead off it in all directions, with sweet little bats roosting on<br />

the roofs, and even sweeter little turtles pottering in their waters’<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 35


ROME<br />

36 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


MEXICO<br />

Left: Ik Kil sinkhole<br />

This page: Indo-Pacific<br />

sailfishes hunt sardines<br />

in Yucatán<br />

‘Frigate birds soared and searing-yellow kiskadees chirped,<br />

their high, ringing song as exuberant as the frigates’ flight’<br />

they grow bigger than a metre, says a<br />

hotel-staffer mysteriously, and I can’t<br />

help suspect that’s ‘safe’ as in ‘safe from<br />

not being made into a handbag’).<br />

I don’t even have to leave this heaven<br />

for my next adventure. Pretty much<br />

every mouthful I’ve consumed on this<br />

trip has been exciting (zinging ceviche...<br />

flavour-burst fish tacos... I could go on.<br />

And did), but nothing prepared me for the<br />

Rosewood’s breakfast huevos rancheros<br />

with its side of toasted grasshoppers.<br />

‘They’re just like corn,’ the waiter<br />

reassures me. Which might be true if corn<br />

had little faces and legs and antennae. But<br />

I fear that not eating them would make<br />

me a species traitor in the unceasing<br />

war that wages here between mosquito<br />

and man. Even after finishing off the<br />

bowlful (they’re crispy-crunchy and<br />

kind of moreish), I’ve probably nibbled<br />

a lot less insect than the insects have<br />

nibbled of me over the past few days.<br />

The only thing more ubiquitous than<br />

mozzies is cenotes, the water-filled caverns<br />

and sinkholes that pockmark this part<br />

of Mexico. They range from bath-size to<br />

2km-wide; some sitting at the side of the<br />

road for anyone to dive into, others built<br />

up into sprawling theme parks. But what<br />

they all have in common is alluringly<br />

cool, enticingly clear, bewitchingly blue<br />

and irresistibly swimmable water.<br />

My favourites are Ik Kil (big, busy, but<br />

outrageously Insta-genic, with vines<br />

that hang down into the water from the<br />

jungle above); the complex clustered<br />

together as Rió Secreto (don wetsuits,<br />

hard hats and miners’ lanterns, for<br />

a guided walk/wade/swim/scramble<br />

through an underground river system);<br />

and Gran Cenote. Here, beautiful kids<br />

from the nearby towns laze and flirt on<br />

the hammocks and greenswards, and<br />

steps descend into a sinkhole. Caves<br />

lead off it in all directions, with sweet<br />

little bats roosting (upside down, of<br />

course) on the roofs, and even sweeter<br />

little turtles pottering in their waters.<br />

It’s a lovely and intriguing swim, but<br />

hire a snorkel for a few pesos and you<br />

can have your mind thoroughly blown.<br />

Like an iceberg, it transpires that what<br />

you can see of the caverns above water is<br />

a mere fraction. Beneath the surface is<br />

an uncanny underworld, an otherworld,<br />

a netherworld, where the stalactites you<br />

saw drooping from the roof are now<br />

stalagmites rising from the floor, or<br />

columns holding up the roof (or is it the<br />

floor?). Through some trick of the eerily<br />

suffusing blue light, or the crystallineclear<br />

water, or the refractions of sound<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 37


‘In this corner of the Caribbean,<br />

life-changing experiences can<br />

be got cheap as well as easy’<br />

and sightlines, you feel you’ve travelled<br />

upside-down through the looking glass to<br />

the sort of inverted augmented alternate<br />

reality that Hollywood spends billions<br />

of FX dollars to create – but for just $5.<br />

In this corner of the Caribbean, lifechanging<br />

experiences can be got cheap<br />

as well as easy, it seems. Moving on to<br />

my next hotel, the more mid-market Tui<br />

Sensatori, I alternate my days between<br />

watching from my beach lounger as<br />

pelicans patrol the airspace in perfect<br />

three-bird formations, like pimped-up<br />

fighter planes; and taking the kind of<br />

coach tours that could give coach tours<br />

a good name. On one to Tulum, I find<br />

there are, in fact, three overlapping<br />

Tulums: the ruined Mayan city (less<br />

dramatic than Cobá, but sited on the<br />

most delectable little beach – sightseeing<br />

really couldn’t be any more effortless);<br />

the tourist strip (a boho hamlet of<br />

boutique hotels, beach clubs, juice bars<br />

and yoga joints; and, just offshore, the<br />

turtles’ Tulum. It’s an ancient underwater<br />

place of congregation for these beautiful<br />

beasts, and for the equally elegant manta<br />

rays that accompany them, but easily<br />

discoverable thanks to the unearthly<br />

noises that arise from it. (Could they<br />

form some strange sub-aquatic ‘song’?<br />

Nope, it’s the sound of a dozen excited<br />

turtle fans trying to say ‘So agelessly<br />

graceful!’ to each other, but it comes out<br />

through their snorkels as ‘Urrrggghhh!’)<br />

Meanwhile, just a few kilometres up<br />

the coast lurks the adventure for which<br />

I’ve been steeling myself all fortnight, the<br />

ultimate won’t-find-this-in-the-Windies<br />

escapade. Whale sharks are among<br />

the world’s largest predators, as big as<br />

buses but still distinctly, unnervingly<br />

shark-shaped (because they are, in fact,<br />

sharks). I’ve always desperately wanted<br />

to/not wanted to swim with them, and<br />

here, in the open ocean out beyond Isla<br />

Mujeres (that’s ‘Isle of the Dead’) you can.<br />

So in the Margarita-hued light of dawn,<br />

as the returning fishermen are enjoying<br />

a 6am brew on the docks, we take their<br />

places in the boats and head out. And an<br />

hour later we’ve found our leviathan; the<br />

snorkels and flippers go on, and we go in.<br />

Whoever started calling them ‘gentle<br />

giants’ had obviously never floated in the<br />

water in front of one (and certainly wasn’t<br />

a zooplankton, several million of which<br />

they devour every day). With that Jaws<br />

dorsal fin, that machete-sharp tail, that<br />

constant swaying, swaggering, menacing<br />

movement through the water, they’re<br />

unmistakably sharks. And it doesn’t<br />

matter how many times your guide tells<br />

you they can’t swallow anything bigger<br />

than their golf-ball-sized throats: when<br />

these 10-metre monsters swim towards<br />

you, their great mouths wide open, a<br />

word bubbles unbidden to the surface<br />

of your mind, and the word is Jonah.<br />

Then they swim, unfussed, right<br />

past you, and suddenly they’re the<br />

peaceful, placid, curious creatures<br />

you’ve heard about. Fear dissolves and<br />

all that’s left is wide-eyed, humbled<br />

wonder – and an afternoon on the beach<br />

with a brew and a burrito, gazing out<br />

across a couple of thousand kilometres<br />

of warm water towards Barbados,<br />

feeling rather pleased with yourself.<br />

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com<br />

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Syndication<br />

38 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


MEXICO<br />

This page:<br />

Beach Suite at<br />

Hotel Esencia<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 39


40 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


ISTANBUL<br />

GOLDEN<br />

In revisiting Istanbul, Nick Redman is reunited with his old flame<br />

TIMES<br />

Left: The Grand Bazaar<br />

This page: silhouette of<br />

the Blue Mosque<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 41


ISTANBUL<br />

Right: interior of the<br />

Blue Mosque<br />

‘Like a photograph emerging in a darkroom tray, the<br />

spiritual gloom developed into magnificence’<br />

Beyond the windows it looked<br />

like a light show put on just<br />

for us, as we waited to be<br />

seated at Mürver, a busy<br />

new rooftop restaurant in<br />

Istanbul. Illuminated white and sodiumorange<br />

across the dark mouth of the Golden<br />

Horn, the skyline monuments sparkled:<br />

Topkapı Palace, Hagia Sophia, and the Blue<br />

Mosque, its six minarets spearing the night<br />

sky. We got a corner table at the back. This<br />

place was dinner-reservation gold, be it<br />

your first night ever in the old Ottoman<br />

capital, or your first night back, as it was<br />

for my other half and me late last spring.<br />

The soft funk sounds, flash-fire open<br />

kitchen and de rigueur filament bulbs<br />

made Mürver feel sweepingly self-assured.<br />

Marinated sea-bass starters arrived, a<br />

tangy delight; then courgette fritters,<br />

kicky with chilli. The maîtresse d’, upon<br />

my asking about moving to a window<br />

table when the crowd thinned, said, ‘It<br />

won’t,’ with a satisfied smile, as if nothing<br />

had changed since the city’s big-money,<br />

pre-crunch, pre-coup millennial times.<br />

I had to smile, too. So it was still<br />

irresistanbul! Istanbul, the city I’ve<br />

adored for three decades or more, living<br />

and working there first, as a sybaritic<br />

twentysomething. I’d love to say nothing<br />

had changed, but that would be to ignore<br />

the endless posters of President Erdogăn we<br />

saw lining the freeway from the airport, as<br />

he geared up for another power-enhancing<br />

election. For Turks, a lot has changed.<br />

And for tourists? Here again after<br />

more than two years, we needn’t have<br />

worried: the same effusive welcome that<br />

is practically the Turks’ moral duty; the<br />

same great-value food; the same kamikaze<br />

taxi drivers, sadly, too, with their allergy to<br />

safety belts. We were glad we had chosen<br />

to stay in Sultanahmet, where Byzantium<br />

and Constantinople rose and fell, and<br />

where Christianity yielded to Islam, 600<br />

or so years ago. I found reassurance in its<br />

historic continuity: it looked as stunning<br />

as it always had, just untroubled now by<br />

tourists and touts. At dusk, the two of us<br />

strolled the sleepy streets, past leafy trees<br />

and gaily painted clapboard facades, more<br />

Tyrolean than Turkish. It was as if we’d hit<br />

on an undiscovered Euro weekend hotspot.<br />

The Four Seasons Hotel Sultanahmet<br />

was a tranquil essay in polished-wood<br />

floors, geometric kilims and corridors of<br />

Ottoman tiles, patterned with tulip petals<br />

and circular bursts of colour, like firework<br />

finales. The lobby had the perfume of<br />

lilies, a safe embrace. From our balcony<br />

I looked down at the garden, where<br />

jasmine plaited itself in thick columns up<br />

the turmeric-coloured enfolding walls,<br />

looking like cypress in the low light.<br />

Inhaling the iron smell of geraniums, I<br />

was back, oddly, in a flash: to June 2001,<br />

a heady evening here with friends, the<br />

summer before the Twin Towers fell.<br />

The world has mended and come apart<br />

since. It always will. In Istanbul, tourists<br />

were trickling back, said a hotel waiter,<br />

pouring drinks by an oil lamp’s flicker.<br />

‘This is an old city,’ he told us, as we<br />

devoured yoghurt-smothered Iskender<br />

kebab on puffy flatbread, zingy on the<br />

tongue with tomato sauce and hot chilli<br />

flakes. ‘Over thousands of years it has<br />

had so many punches. We have been<br />

sad, but people are returning again.’<br />

Istanbul felt no scarier than Paris, I<br />

thought, as we stepped out to mingle with<br />

those people next day. In the balmy air<br />

we wandered among horse chestnuts in<br />

bloom before the Blue Mosque, fountains<br />

playing, the muezzin’s call wailing to its<br />

crescendo. Loudly chattering Turkish<br />

schoolkids milled about smoke-laced<br />

carts selling blackened corn-on-the-cob.<br />

The queue was reassuringly healthy<br />

for the Hagia Sophia, its buttresses and<br />

ballooning domes squeezing out the sky.<br />

It seemed more magnificent than I’d ever<br />

known it, almost not of this planet, as if it<br />

had crash-landed from outer space millions<br />

of years ago and, over the ages, grown rusty<br />

and dusty, as civilisations rose around it.<br />

Such was the awe it was built to instil: first<br />

as a church in the 6th century, and again,<br />

after almost a millennium, when saved<br />

from failing Byzantine dilapidation in 1453<br />

by the conquering Ottomans, who restored<br />

it as a mosque. Inside, like a photograph<br />

emerging in a darkroom tray, the spiritual<br />

gloom developed into magnificence,<br />

daylight angling in with stage-beam<br />

precision from windows on high.<br />

We performed the ‘Say, “cheese”’<br />

honours for three Romanians in the<br />

grounds of Topkapı Palace, which rang<br />

with the chip-chip of masons repairing<br />

the low stone walls. The inscrutable<br />

residence for generations of sultans was<br />

a paradise garden of blood-red rose beds<br />

and carpets of pansies, monastic cedars<br />

throwing shadows across the lawns. It<br />

filled the senses like distilled nostalgia.<br />

Chambers shone with centuries<br />

of splendour, from mother-of-pearl<br />

grandfather clocks (one a gift from Queen<br />

Victoria to Abdul Hamid II) to a 300-yearold<br />

ceremonial suit of armour, dripping<br />

with chains like something from Michael<br />

Jackson’s tour wardrobe circa 1993. But on<br />

this cloudless day, Topkapı was for outside<br />

indulgence. As waiters at Konyalı restaurant<br />

42 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 43


44 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />

This page, clockwise<br />

from top left: Turkish<br />

cheese pide; ample<br />

spices on sale in the<br />

city's Spice Bazaar;<br />

a traditional Turkish<br />

kebab; boza being<br />

poured into a glass


ISTANBUL<br />

‘Ooh, that Bosphorus view, and the blue Golden<br />

Horn flowing to meet it, scored with the white<br />

trails of ferries moving at the speed of swans’<br />

Credit: Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing<br />

removed the cloches on our kebab lunch<br />

plates, we lazed sultan-style on the terrace,<br />

catching rays, letting our senses lead us.<br />

Ooh, that Bosphorus view, and the blue<br />

Golden Horn flowing to meet it, scored<br />

with the white trails of ferries moving<br />

at the speed of swans. Way north, in the<br />

direction of the Black Sea, traffic caught<br />

sunlight, tiny silver beads traversing<br />

the Bosphorus Bridge, the unlikely front<br />

line of the failed 2016 coup. Behind it<br />

all rose the LA-style skyline of new-rich<br />

Istanbul – steely and blue-glassy, aspiring<br />

optimistically to heydays ahead.<br />

We took a night taxi, seeking the<br />

delectations of the modern city in Bomonti,<br />

inland from the Bosphorus shores. The<br />

city unspooled: a futuristic galaxy. Brutal<br />

apartment blocks filled canyons, glittering<br />

as they rolled off into the hills. We sped<br />

above it all, across high flyovers like<br />

fat spaghetti tangles, spotted with red<br />

taillights, and could only gawp admiringly<br />

at Istanbul’s sheer indefatigable grandeur.<br />

‘You made it,’ called Hatice, looming to<br />

greet us as we stepped into Kilimanjaro.<br />

She’d already texted a snap of herself<br />

with her Italian beau, taken at the table<br />

moments before – possibly in case we<br />

didn’t recognise our friend, two years<br />

after she’d left London to resettle here.<br />

The pair had invited us so as to big-up<br />

Bomonti, their home turf, a kilometre or<br />

so north of Taksim Square. It was named<br />

after two Swiss brothers who brewed hops<br />

here around the dawn of the 20th century,<br />

when Istanbul was Constantinople. Their<br />

factory, once closed and broken-windowed,<br />

has been resurrected for the unfailingly<br />

effervescent millennials of Istanbul, and<br />

Kilimanjaro is one of several hedonistic<br />

joints filling its bare-brick warehouse<br />

spaces and sprawling courtyards.<br />

With lots of straw-sucking, couplesyflirting<br />

going on, Kilimanjaro could have<br />

been in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District<br />

or Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin. Its centrepiece<br />

was a huge ‘aviary’ basket structure that<br />

followed the looping Grand-Prix curves of<br />

the bar below, full of spotlit bottles, perched<br />

like songbirds among dangling potted<br />

plants. Such a surprise stunner in a reborn<br />

corner! All the while, ’70s funk of the James<br />

Brown school came courtesy of a speccily<br />

serious DJ, as plates of crispy-skin chicken<br />

thighs circulated with waiters’ pirouettes,<br />

threatening drinkers’ Armani garb.<br />

We talked until late, about this and that;<br />

about how, if ever a city deserves good<br />

times, it is Istanbul, with inclusivity in its<br />

marrow. I recalled the borscht of snowy<br />

nights, in 1987, at Rejans, a nocturnal nook<br />

in a dodgy Beyoğlu backstreet originally<br />

opened by anti-Bolshevik exiles, musicians<br />

sawing away in its minstrel’s gallery, late.<br />

I lamented its long-ago folding.<br />

'It’s been relaunched', said Hatice.<br />

'Next time you come, we’ll go.'<br />

Next morning dawned more dispiritingly,<br />

cacophonous with irascible gulls, and<br />

hangover-grey due to a grim downpour<br />

off the foggy Bosphorus. A comfort-food<br />

kind of day. Benoit was waiting, as he’d<br />

promised, with brollies outside the Spice<br />

Bazaar, beyond the moored ferries of<br />

Eminönü, gateway to Old Istanbul. The<br />

Belgian expat lays on culinary walks to<br />

help visitors discover the part of the city I’d<br />

overlooked in the past, always questing after<br />

the new. This area was a commercial whirl<br />

in late Roman imperial times – and with<br />

Benoit, we uncovered a traditional Istanbul<br />

as vibrant as I’d recalled it years ago.<br />

We breakfasted first, on seeded simit<br />

bread rings, with the rain coursing about<br />

the drainpipes of an atmospheric han — a<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 45


This page: Opposite: the view from Sail boats Four<br />

Seasons Hotel docked Sultanahmet in Sausalito(in<br />

the foreground) This page: The coastal<br />

route linking San Francisco<br />

to Big Sur<br />

46 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


ISTANBUL<br />

storeyed, arcaded Ottoman storage depot,<br />

of which few remain. It was a workers’ cafe,<br />

family-run for generations, by emigrants<br />

from Erzincan, a town way east, near the<br />

border with Armenia. A daub of molasses<br />

tingled the tastebuds, black, sticky and<br />

prune-like, brought from the Black Sea,<br />

where it is a centuries-old method of<br />

preserving apples in winter. Coffee sacks<br />

piled in a nearby alley told of wider, older<br />

trade links, stamped with destinations<br />

from ‘Yemen’ to ‘Etiyopya’, ‘Sumatra’ to<br />

‘Hindistan’. Moving deeper, we brushed<br />

past spice dens dustily pungent with<br />

oregano and coriander, wild orchid roots<br />

dangling like sacrificial skeins of teeth.<br />

We ate lamb’s neck soup in a corner<br />

place, scrunched on low stools like picnic<br />

gnomes, then cheesy pizza-style pide<br />

at Mavi Haliç Pidecisi, where the cookproprietor<br />

let us dispatch our own off<br />

a large wooden paddle into the oven’s<br />

roar. We had lamb kebabs still sizzling<br />

from their bed of red charcoal at Osmanlı<br />

Kebapçısı, a classic concern as queued-for<br />

as a trendy New York food truck. At Altan<br />

Sekerleme sweet shop (founded 1865)<br />

we sucked sugared almonds in Smartie<br />

colours, offered freely for the tasting from<br />

stoppered jars. It was very Turkish: these<br />

sensory rituals, the sweetness of strangers.<br />

Another curiosity was Sevda Gazozcusu,<br />

its walls lined with shelves of retro<br />

Turkish fizzy drinks: a collector’s new<br />

trend, would you believe, said Benoit.<br />

Darkness was descending over the<br />

city. We ended up sipping boza, Turkey’s<br />

“In traditional the rainy-day warmer, we drove<br />

made of<br />

fermented millet, sugary and creamy<br />

past<br />

– slightly<br />

vast<br />

custardy.<br />

stretches<br />

At this elegant<br />

of<br />

establishment, seascape. Vefa Bozacısı, At night,<br />

served by<br />

white-clad waiters, we could have been<br />

we<br />

in Florence<br />

sat five<br />

or Madrid<br />

storeys<br />

amid the stained<br />

up<br />

mirrors among and worn floor thousandyear-old<br />

tiles. Spooning it<br />

trees”<br />

up, I fell through the time tunnel, through<br />

decades, to my first winter, January<br />

1986, when I would order it on ferries<br />

crossing the bitter, sleety Bosphorus<br />

after work. I got a familiar warm feeling<br />

inside: Istanbul, and the pleasurable<br />

glow of going back to find a city as sweet<br />

and seductive as ever I’d known it.<br />

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 47


48 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


INNSBRUCK<br />

You don’t have to slope off into the wild to get<br />

your downhill fix. With Hapsburg heritage, futuristic<br />

architecture and mountains all around, Innsbruck is<br />

an atmospheric Austrian city break and ski holiday in<br />

one, says Sean Newsom<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 49


Opening pages, from left:<br />

heading downhill in the<br />

mountains; the city centre<br />

of Innsbruck, as seen from<br />

the Town Hall's roof terrace<br />

These pages:<br />

Hungerburgbahn railway<br />

station<br />

So there I was, walking the<br />

streets of Innsbruck in my<br />

ski boots, feeling ridiculous.<br />

Everyone else was dressed<br />

for shopping, or for morning<br />

lectures at the city’s university. I was in<br />

lemon-yellow boots, silver helmet and<br />

bilious-green jacket, shouldering a bright<br />

red pair of skis. Normally, when I’m heading<br />

for the slopes, that’s perfectly acceptable.<br />

But on this particular Austrian morning I<br />

was a lump of hard, shiny plastic bobbing<br />

in a sober sea of overcoats. It felt as if I’d<br />

just fallen out of a giant box of Lego.<br />

Then I arrived at Zaha Hadid’s<br />

Hungerburgbahn railway station, and<br />

everything changed. It’s slap-bang in<br />

the middle of town, only 250m from the<br />

Rococo splendour of the Hofburg palace,<br />

the Hapsburg dynasty’s home-fromhome<br />

whenever they visited Innsbruck.<br />

But in just 30 minutes its sleek, chic<br />

funicular railway, followed by a couple of<br />

cable cars, had whisked me to an altitude<br />

of 2,256m. When I stepped out of the top<br />

station, it was into a raw white wilderness.<br />

On my left was a knuckle of rock,<br />

punching its way to the summit of the<br />

Hafelekarspitze at 2,334m. On my right...<br />

well, I couldn’t see what was on my right,<br />

because a tearing wind had whipped the<br />

snow into a thick cloud. Thank heavens<br />

I’d booked a guide, Sebastian, because<br />

the only way I was going to find the piste<br />

was if I followed him footstep by footstep.<br />

Provided, of course, the wind would let me.<br />

There was one gust I’ll never forget.<br />

It seemed to be testing me, like a finger<br />

waggling a loose tooth, checking if it<br />

was ready to be torn free. My whole body<br />

shuddered in its grip. My mind, too. Just<br />

down there, half an hour ago, I’d been<br />

standing outside Manna Delikatessencafe<br />

on the Maria-Theresien-Strasse, wondering<br />

if there was time for a slice of Apfelstrudel<br />

mit Vanillesauce before the ride up the<br />

mountain. Now I was hunkered down in a<br />

snowdrift, trying not to be blown off an Alp.<br />

Of course, any day of skiing mixes the<br />

wild and the refined, as you flit between<br />

the comfort of your hotel or chalet and<br />

sub-zero mountain slopes. But nowhere<br />

is the contrast sharper than in Innsbruck.<br />

This is a city, not a ski resort, and it isn’t<br />

near the Alps, it’s in the middle of them –<br />

crammed onto the last sizeable patch of flat<br />

ground before the road to Italy heaves itself<br />

over the Brenner Pass. Look down almost<br />

any street, and see a proud procession of<br />

exquisite Baroque, Renaissance or Gothic<br />

buildings – with the view finishing in a<br />

wall of snow and rock. It’s a place where the<br />

most civilised of human endeavours and<br />

the most rugged of nature’s wildernesses<br />

are constantly jostling for precedence.<br />

That means that, unlike a typical ski<br />

trip, where time spent away from the snow<br />

seems ‘wasted’, here it feels as if you’re<br />

getting a terrific city break thrown in for<br />

free. On the way to rent some boots and<br />

skis, my walk took me underneath an 18thcentury<br />

triumphal arch that left my jaw well<br />

and truly dropped – in a way that nothing<br />

in, say, Meŕibel ever had. The arch is a<br />

sober monument, given it commemorates<br />

a wedding, not a war: between the future<br />

Austrian emperor, Leopold, and Maria<br />

Luisa of Spain, in 1764. But served up with<br />

a backdrop of Alps, it’s both incongruous<br />

and magnificent – like Innsbruck itself.<br />

On another break from the slopes<br />

the next day, I ran my hands over the<br />

cool orange marble of the columns at<br />

the Hofkirche, a church whose modest<br />

exterior hides an extraordinarily exuberant<br />

mausoleum, designed in the early 16th<br />

50 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


INNSBRUCK<br />

‘Zaha Hadid’s Hungerburgbahn railway station is slapbang<br />

in the middle of town, only 250m from the Rococo<br />

splendour of the Hofburg palace’<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 51


INNSBRUCK<br />

‘It’s so quaintly perfect, it feels like you’ve<br />

wandered onto a postcard’<br />

century as the final resting place of the<br />

Emperor Maximilian I. Then, at the<br />

Ferdinandeum – Innsbruck’s unmissable<br />

museum of history and art – I rediscovered<br />

the work of local hero Albin Egger-<br />

Lienz. The most underrated of Austrian<br />

artists, his anguished paintings explore<br />

the hard, plain lives of mountain folk,<br />

in an earthy palette of ochres. Hanging<br />

alongside work by Egon Schiele and Oskar<br />

Kokoschka, they are an eye-popping<br />

introduction to early-20th-century angst.<br />

There was even time for Kaffee und<br />

Kuchen, courtesy of Café Sacher. Here,<br />

in a branch of the famous Viennese<br />

coffee shop, they celebrate the afternoon<br />

ritual of coffee and cake with a slice of<br />

Sachertorte, a sandwich of chocolate<br />

sponge and apricot jam, encased in<br />

thick, shiny chocolate icing. The first<br />

time I tried it, years ago in the Austrian<br />

capital, it seemed much more dry and<br />

formal – like the army officers who used<br />

to eat it, I imagined. But that was before I<br />

learned to smother it in whipped cream.<br />

Admittedly, Innsbruck is no match for<br />

Vienna when it comes to Austrian culture.<br />

But that’s not the point. There are no<br />

mountains in Vienna. And it’s the mix of<br />

the two that creates one of winter’s most<br />

compelling short breaks. Stay in one of the<br />

city-centre hotels, less than 15 minutes’<br />

drive from the airport, and you’ll have<br />

plugged yourself into the same network of<br />

connections the locals use. Like tentacles,<br />

the lifts, roads and railway lines reach up<br />

into every mountain, and together they<br />

serve up every snowy pastime imaginable.<br />

So, for example, you could spend a<br />

morning wading through the wedding-cake<br />

interiors of the Hofburg palace – then ride<br />

bus line J up to the village of Igls. As well as<br />

a small ski area, it’s home to Innsbruck’s<br />

Olympic bobsleigh track, and if you’re<br />

feeling reckless you can hitch a ride on one<br />

of its four-man sleds (olympiaworld.at).<br />

Acceleration is instantaneous, the top speed<br />

115kph. It feels like you’ve been strapped to<br />

a bullet and fired out of the barrel of gun.<br />

Or you could catch a train from the<br />

Hauptbahnhof to Seefeld, and a rather<br />

more sedate version of the Alps. I went<br />

the next morning, hoping to soothe my<br />

still-frazzled nerves – and deliver you to<br />

an absurdly pretty village of wooden eaves<br />

and spa hotels, where cross-country skiing<br />

trails weave through the forest. Don’t<br />

commit to a whole day, though. Skiing<br />

on the flat is exhausting. Plan instead to<br />

spend the afternoon mucking about on<br />

the outdoor curling rinks, where they<br />

play an easy, uncomplicated version of<br />

the Olympic sport, beneath a tiny-onion<br />

domed church. It’s so quaintly perfect, it<br />

feels like you’ve wandered onto a postcard.<br />

Meanwhile, the skiers in your group will<br />

be arguing about which of Innsbruck’s nine<br />

local ski areas to try. For most, the essential<br />

stop is the Stubai Glacier, which is where<br />

I took my hire car on the third day. It’s a<br />

good hour from the city centre – but on a<br />

sunny day it’s worth every wiggle of road,<br />

because there are few better pockets of easy,<br />

intermediate-friendly skiing in the Alps. It’s<br />

not just the fact that the pistes are so wide,<br />

steady and gentle that makes it a blast; it’s<br />

the quality of the snow. Up there, the lift<br />

system tops out at an eye-watering 3,170m,<br />

and the season runs from mid-September<br />

until June. It’s the perfect place to warm up<br />

your ski legs and rebuild your confidence.<br />

By the end of the day, I was skiing so fast<br />

I thought my hair would catch fire.<br />

But that was nothing compared with my<br />

52 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


INNSBRUCK<br />

This page: The view from the<br />

historic area of Candelaria<br />

Opposite: Contemporary art<br />

in Iglesia de Santa Clara<br />

This page, clockwise<br />

from top left: a<br />

tempting slice of<br />

Sachertorte; festive<br />

time in Innsbruck<br />

city centre; lording<br />

over Nordkette, the<br />

mountain at the heart<br />

of Innsbruck;<br />

Hofburg palace<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 53


This page:<br />

cable cars high over<br />

Stubai Glacier<br />

54 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


INNSBRUCK<br />

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing<br />

experience beneath the Hafelekarspitze<br />

the next morning. That walk along<br />

the ridge I mentioned earlier was just<br />

the overture. Sebastian, my guide and<br />

guardian angel, somehow got me through<br />

it, and together we wobbled on for five<br />

minutes until the path dropped down to<br />

a gap between the crags – and I caught<br />

my first sight of the view south.<br />

Holy Mother of Mountain Scenery: I’d<br />

never seen anything like it. It wasn’t so<br />

much the distance that made it special.<br />

It was the sense of depth. Sealing the<br />

horizon, 30km away, was the central<br />

spine of the Alps – the one that forms<br />

the border with Italy and snakes all the<br />

way to Mont Blanc. Immediately beneath<br />

my boots, plunging down toward the<br />

city limits, was the steepest slope I’ve<br />

ever attempted – and there, in a deep<br />

gutter of green, spread the streets of<br />

Innsbruck, glinting in the sunshine.<br />

‘Is this the only way down?’ I asked.<br />

I’d heard that this area, the Nordkette,<br />

was steep, but after my ego-boosting<br />

day on the Stubai Glacier, I thought I<br />

needed a challenge. Now I wasn’t so<br />

sure. What if I fell? By the look of it, I<br />

wouldn’t stop rolling until I was back<br />

in the Maria-Theresien-Strasse, lying<br />

outside Manna Delikatessencafe.<br />

‘There is another route,’ said<br />

Sebastian. ‘But it’s steeper.’<br />

Then I realised something. I wasn’t<br />

scared anymore. Those powerful gusts<br />

of wind had been shocking at first, but a<br />

couple of days of art galleries and Gothic<br />

architecture had sharpened my appetite<br />

for adrenaline. And knowing what<br />

(largely edible) delights were awaiting<br />

me back down in town, I steeled myself.<br />

‘Ready?’ asked Sebastian, after I’d clicked<br />

into my skis. I nodded, and we were off.<br />

An hour later, I was back on the streets<br />

of Innsbruck once again a lone skier in<br />

a sea of busy city folk. But this time, I<br />

didn’t feel ridiculous, I felt victorious.<br />

There was snow on my boots and a smile<br />

as wide as the Nordkette plastered across<br />

my face. I could have hugged every one<br />

of them. Instead, I went to Manna’s<br />

and ordered some apple strudel.<br />

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 55


worldtravellermagazine.com<br />

Your passport to the Middle East's first fully<br />

bookable travel inspiration website<br />

Extend your journey with <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> magazine<br />

by heading online to read more inspirational and<br />

exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute<br />

hotel and holiday features<br />

Dream Read Click Book


CHECK IN Globetrotter<br />

Weekends<br />

Staycations and short-haul escapes<br />

NATURAL ATTRACTION<br />

Lush forest, sandy beaches and natural mangroves – it’s<br />

Ajman but not as you know it. Indeed, this tiny emirate is a<br />

draw card for nature fans, with the coastal destination of Al<br />

Zorah home to a rich ecosystem. Its protected wetlands are<br />

dominated by mangroves – ideal for kayaking – that support<br />

an impressive variety of species of birds and fish, including<br />

the native pink flamingo. The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah<br />

(pictured) is a luxurious base from which to explore. Simply<br />

ask the concierge about the ways to take a closer look at the<br />

area’s verdant bounty.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 57


MINI BREAK<br />

Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Yamm Villa Resort<br />

YOUR GUIDE TO: ABU DHABI<br />

As the UAE celebrates its 47th National Day, we shine a light on the capital’s enduring appeal<br />

Anchored by its island city, Abu Dhabi is<br />

a curious blend of contrasts that draws<br />

visitors from around the globe. From<br />

its historic heartland out to the golden dunes<br />

of the Empty Quarter, culture and heritage<br />

reign supreme, with iconic landmarks such as<br />

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and Louvre Abu<br />

Dhabi on the must-see list for many. However,<br />

it’s also a place for adventure seekers to get<br />

their thrills and spills, with exciting theme<br />

parks and plenty of outdoor adventures to<br />

enjoy. Even if you've visited many times before,<br />

there's a wave of newness to entice you back,<br />

from the newly-renovated Qasr Al Hosn to the<br />

billion dollar Warner Bros. <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi.<br />

Let our top picks inspire you to rediscover all<br />

the best bits…<br />

Jumeirah at Saadiyat<br />

Island Resort<br />

CONTRIBUTOR CLAIRE MALCOLM<br />

58 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


ABU DHABI<br />

GET OUTDOORS<br />

Yas Links<br />

Golfing greats<br />

The emirate is home to some great greens (and<br />

browns). For some of the best scenery, however, we<br />

suggest you play a round at Yas Links, the city’s only<br />

links course that benefits from a stunning coastal<br />

setting. Just don't let the gorgeous views distract you<br />

from your game. yaslinks.com<br />

Desert ranger<br />

A desert safari is a must, and Arabian Adventures<br />

is the pick of a number of locally-based companies<br />

to offer this and other fun desert experiences. It's<br />

the rare visitor who turns down an opportunity to<br />

embark on their Desert Rose Dinner Safari, which<br />

will take you on a thrilling four-wheel drive across<br />

the dunes to a traditional Bedouin style camp where<br />

a delicious dinner awaits. Plus, you'll have the chance<br />

to ride a camel and test your sandboarding skills.<br />

arabian-adventures.com<br />

#<br />

travelgoals<br />

Culture, in<br />

musical form,<br />

is the modus<br />

operandi of the<br />

hugely popular<br />

annual Abu Dhabi<br />

Classics concert<br />

series that runs<br />

from September<br />

to April. Featuring<br />

world-class artists<br />

and orchestras,<br />

concerts take<br />

place in the<br />

opulent setting<br />

of the Emirates<br />

Palace auditorium,<br />

on Saadiyat<br />

Island, and at Bin<br />

Hamoodah Fort in<br />

Al Ain<br />

CULTURE CLUB<br />

A mosque stop<br />

When a whistle-stop visit is the reality, Sheikh Zayed<br />

Grand Mosque is a must-see. A place of worship for<br />

up to 40,000, the exquisite structure features 82<br />

domes and 1,000 pure white columns adorned with<br />

floral designs inlaid with semi-precious stones. A<br />

guided tour is imperative for insightful snippets<br />

about its architecture and design features, including<br />

the world’s largest handmade carpet. szgmc.gov.ae<br />

History lesson<br />

Swap large-scale sights for an altogether quainter<br />

experience at the open-air Abu Dhabi Heritage<br />

Village. Built to resemble a desert oasis community,<br />

take a gentle wander around the traditional barasti<br />

(dried palm frond) huts housing various exhibits,<br />

see local artisans in action and get a potted history<br />

of the emirate.<br />

Storytime at the fort<br />

The former home of the emirate’s ruling family, and<br />

originally a coral stone watchtower marking the<br />

city’s first settlement, Al Hosn recently underwent a<br />

multi-million-dollar renovation to transform it into<br />

a cultural destination comprising the historic Qasr<br />

Al Hosn Fort, the Cultural Foundation, the National<br />

Consultative Council building, and the House of<br />

Artisans. The museum traces the city’s development<br />

from a fishing and pearling settlement to the<br />

modern metropolis it is today. alhosn.ae<br />

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque<br />

Animal magic<br />

On, below and above the smooth surface of the desert<br />

sands lies a teeming mass of wildlife. The impressive<br />

Al Ain Zoo, which celebrated its 50 th anniversary in<br />

<strong>2018</strong>, is all about education and conservation. Visit its<br />

sprawling facility and you’ll easily spend a good few<br />

hours observing more than 4,000 animals. Its highly<br />

regarded breeding programme includes a growing<br />

Arabian sand cat community and the endangered<br />

dama gazelle. alainzoo.ae<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 59


MINI BREAK<br />

Warner Bros. <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi<br />

SAY YAS TO FUN<br />

Park life<br />

Entertainment hub Yas Island is the place to go for<br />

some fast fun, with a cluster of theme parks and<br />

hi-octane attractions for thrill seekers of all ages.<br />

New on the scene is Warner Bros. <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi,<br />

which boasts six immersive lands including<br />

DC’s Metropolis and Gotham City, as well as<br />

Cartoon Junction, Bedrock, Dynamite Gulch<br />

and Warner Bros. Plaza. There's a 29-strong<br />

roster of rides, plus interactive familyfriendly<br />

attractions and live entertainment<br />

populated by fan-favourite characters such<br />

as Scooby-Doo, Wonder Woman and Tom<br />

and Jerry. wbworldabudhabi.com<br />

Pedal to the metal<br />

This entertainment nirvana is also home to the<br />

5.55-kilometre Hermann Tilke-designed Yas Marina<br />

Circuit, which hosts the annual Formula 1 Etihad<br />

Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix in November. But don’t<br />

fret that you’ve just missed the main event, as the<br />

circuit hosts a full programme of year-round on-track<br />

activities, headlined by in-demand driving experiences<br />

behind the wheel of an Aston Martin GT4 or singleseater<br />

Formula 3000. yasmarinacircuit.com<br />

#<br />

travelgoals<br />

For boho chic<br />

vibes and Far<br />

Eastern cuisine,<br />

head to the newlyopened<br />

Buddha-<br />

Bar Beach at The<br />

St. Regis Saadiyat<br />

Island Resort, Abu<br />

Dhabi. Direct from<br />

Paris, this day-tonight<br />

destination<br />

is the ‘in’ place to<br />

unwind and when<br />

it comes to the<br />

food, the ceviche<br />

is a clear winner<br />

Pack your bucket and<br />

spade and head to the<br />

city’s newest beachfront<br />

community A’l Bahar,<br />

situated along the corniche,<br />

which is packed with shops,<br />

entertainment, and reasons<br />

to get active – the inflatable<br />

AquaFun waterpark is our<br />

top pick for families<br />

Louvre Abu Dhabi<br />

ART ICONS<br />

Inside the Louvre<br />

Named in Time magazine’s list of the greatest places<br />

of <strong>2018</strong>, Louvre Abu Dhabi is a cultural showstopper.<br />

Having recently celebrated its one-year anniversary<br />

this art icon, located within the Saadiyat Island<br />

Cultural District, recently unveiled 11 new acquisitions<br />

in its permanent galleries and is hosting an exhibition<br />

of archaeological masterpieces and important<br />

Islamic art from Saudi Arabia and the UAE until 16<br />

February 2019. Its exceptional collection of artworks,<br />

artefacts and on-loan pieces is all wrapped up inside<br />

an architectural work of art – Jean Nouvel’s futuristic<br />

floating silver dome. louvreabudhabi.ae<br />

Creative flair<br />

Manarat Al Saadiyat, a multi-gallery and performance<br />

space that hosts the annual Abu Dhabi Art show, is<br />

another gem the Saadiyat Island Cultural District.<br />

Check out the new Photography Studio, which hosts<br />

community-driven photography exhibitions alongside<br />

a year-round calendar of activities and programmes.<br />

There’s also a Drop In Studio for people of all ages to<br />

create their own artworks, with sessions lasting<br />

for up to two hours. manaratalsaadiyat.ae<br />

Solo artist<br />

A growing cadre of independent galleries<br />

are also expanding the scene, including<br />

new kid on the block Warehouse 421, tucked<br />

away in the port area, which is an advocate<br />

for emerging talent within the local creative<br />

community. It hosts a cool line-up of exhibitions,<br />

including Hundred Best Arabic Posters 100/100, which<br />

is running until 20 January 2019. warehouse421.ae<br />

Life is a roller coaster<br />

Speed demons of all ages are also bound to have<br />

Ferrari <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi on their bucket list. Home to<br />

the world’s fastest rollercoaster – the Formula Rossa,<br />

which hits 240km/h in under five seconds – as well<br />

as the 1.5-kilometre-long Flying Aces rollercoaster,<br />

featuring the world’s largest inverted loop and steepest<br />

incline. But it also has a host of (ahem) gentler rides to<br />

try. ferrariworldabudhabi.com<br />

60 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


ABU DHABI<br />

SET TO SHOP<br />

Gallery goals<br />

Abu Dhabi’s plush malls are a shopper’s delight. If<br />

designer labels are your kryptonite then The Galleria,<br />

Al Maryah Island, is sure to rob you of your selfcontrol.<br />

We say give in and go try on some of the<br />

wearable riches from the many luxury fashion, watch<br />

and jewellery brands housed here, including Van Cleef<br />

& Arpels, Richard Mille and Mulberry. thegalleria.ae<br />

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi<br />

Fashionable finds<br />

The concept boutique scene is also hotting up with a<br />

small but tempting collection of independent retailers<br />

selling quirky, cool and collectible items. Fashionled<br />

Minbart in the Al Raha Beach community stocks<br />

pieces from up-and-coming local, regional and<br />

international designers, while Bits & Pieces in the Al<br />

Mushrif district is a repository of unique colourful<br />

homeware, décor and kitchen trappings.<br />

To the souk<br />

The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri is a contemporary take on<br />

the Arabian bazaar, with a touch of European influence<br />

thrown in for good measure. The waterside setting<br />

includes abras to ferry you along the man-made canal,<br />

a plethora of water-facing dining options, plus shops<br />

and pop-up stalls selling everything from jewellery<br />

and accessories to perfumes. Follow your nose to<br />

Amouage to stock up on oud-based fragrances, pick up<br />

a cashmere pashmina or three at Toshkhana, or treat<br />

yourself to some handcrafted jewellery at Exquisite<br />

Antiques Gallery. soukqaryatalberi.com<br />

The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri<br />

#<br />

travelgoals<br />

If you’re keen<br />

to try authentic<br />

Emirati cuisine, we<br />

rate Al Fanar at<br />

The Ritz-Carlton<br />

Abu Dhabi Grand<br />

Canal’s Venetian<br />

Village. Bring your<br />

appetite and feast<br />

on dishes including<br />

fish biryani and<br />

a hearty chicken<br />

thereed (where a<br />

flavourful stew is<br />

ladelled on top of<br />

thin Arabic bread)<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi<br />

Located at the heart of the city, along the corniche, The<br />

St. Regis Abu Dhabi is famous for its Superior Sea View<br />

rooms. Take a load off at Nation Riviera Beach Club,<br />

which boasts its own private stretch of sand, and be<br />

sure to squeeze in some pampering at Remède Spa.<br />

Jumeirah at Etihad Towers<br />

Overlooking the Arabian Gulf and the city’s<br />

cosmopolitan corniche, the 69-storey Jumeirah at<br />

Etihad Towers has views to write home about. The<br />

suites here rank among the finest in the city: even<br />

their bathrooms afford widescreen views of Abu Dhabi.<br />

There are multiple dining outlets to enjoy, a pristine<br />

private beach and the award-winning Talise Spa.<br />

Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort<br />

Just a short stroll away from the sweeping protected<br />

beachfront, this contemporary resort is brimming<br />

with natural attractions, with mangroves, dolphins<br />

and turtles on the doorstep. Catch a sunrise yoga<br />

session, take a dip in one of three infinity swimming<br />

pools and observe Hawksbill turtles on the sand during<br />

the nesting season. Plus, it’s a stone’s throw from the<br />

emirate’s leading cultural attractions.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 61


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI<br />

Roads of Arabia © Department of Culture<br />

& Tourism – Abu Dhabi<br />

Cross the<br />

cultural<br />

bridge<br />

Don’t miss this critically acclaimed<br />

exhibition at Louvre Abu Dhabi,<br />

which delves into the rich history<br />

of the Arabian Peninsula<br />

Art and culture fans have yet another<br />

reason to visit the UAE capital over<br />

the coming months, thanks to Louvre<br />

Abu Dhabi’s Roads of Arabia: Archaeological<br />

Treasures of Saudi Arabia exhibition, which<br />

explores the fascinating story of the Arabian<br />

Peninsula through archaeological and cultural<br />

artefacts from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia<br />

and the UAE.<br />

One of the most renowned Saudi exhibitions<br />

internationally, it was originally conceived<br />

through a cooperation between the Saudi<br />

Commission for Tourism and National<br />

Heritage and the Musée du Louvre in Paris,<br />

where it was first presented in 2010. Now<br />

back in the region following a 14-stop tour of<br />

Europe, the US and Asia and, the exhibition has<br />

been enriched by a selection of rare pieces from<br />

the emirates.<br />

It explores five chapters in the history of<br />

the Arabian Peninsula, from early prehistoric<br />

settlements to the social and economic<br />

developments between the 14th and 16th<br />

centuries that set the stage for the modernday<br />

region. Visitors can view important<br />

archaeological pieces from the UAE, including<br />

a pearl found in Umm Al Quwain dating from<br />

5500-5300 BCE (loaned by Umm Al Quwain<br />

Museum), which are displayed alongside<br />

significant artefacts from KSA, including a<br />

door of the Kaaba dating to 1355 (loaned by the<br />

National Museum in Riyadh), among many<br />

others. Bolster your knowledge through a<br />

series of film screenings curated by Emirati<br />

artist Hind Mezaina (taking place each<br />

Saturday from 5 to 26 January), as well as<br />

talks and poetry performances designed to<br />

provide a richer insight.<br />

The exhibition is taking place until<br />

16 February 2019. Entry is free upon<br />

purchasing a ticket to the museum.<br />

To find out more, call +971 600 56 55 66<br />

or visit louvreabudhabi.ae<br />

62 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


1 2<br />

TRAVEL NOTES<br />

My Great Escapes<br />

6<br />

Travel writer and photographer<br />

Michelle Karam, founder of Travel<br />

Junkie Diary, shares her best adventures<br />

traveljunkiediary.com,<br />

@traveljunkiediary<br />

3<br />

5<br />

1. Maldives moments. One of the most beautiful Maldivian<br />

island resorts I’ve visited is Joali on Muravandhoo Island in<br />

the Raa Atoll, 45 minutes by seaplane from Male. It embraces<br />

creativity, with a fantastic collection of art and sculptural<br />

pieces to discover. 2. Ocean views in Madeira. I spent a<br />

week in Madeira with my family exploring the mountains, the<br />

ocean, the cuisine and the wonderful history that the region<br />

has to offer. This picture was taken at Belmond Reid's Palace,<br />

which is perched atop a cliff and has a view to take your breath<br />

away. 3. Finding the magic in Finland. You can fall in love<br />

with a place because of how it makes you feel, and Finland is<br />

where I found nature in the most magical way: sleeping in an<br />

aurora cabin under the stars and waking up to the sound of<br />

snow falling onto the rooftop. 4. Desert dreams. The UAE<br />

desert comes alive at sunrise and is one of the most beautiful<br />

places to photograph. I strongly advise you wake up early<br />

to experience the majesty of the dunes. 5. Family time in<br />

Lisbon. Lisbon is one of my favourite European cities. I spent<br />

two weeks there with my family, staying at Avani Avenida<br />

Liberdade. My daughter and I were going to spend the day<br />

beside the pool but it started raining without warning. As we<br />

began to laugh, my husband took this picture. 6. Home to<br />

Lebanon. A misunderstood country filled with nature, lakes,<br />

beaches, history, mountains and great food, Lebanon will<br />

always be my home. Seeing the Faqra Roman ruins is a must,<br />

as learning about the area’s rich history and culture is all part<br />

of the journey.<br />

4<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 63


WORLD TRAVELLER X AL MAHA, A LUXURY COLLECTION DESERT RESORT & SPA, DUBAI<br />

STAYCATION<br />

Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, Dubai<br />

Adopt the Bedouin way of life at this luxury resort in Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve<br />

THE SUITES<br />

You can get a real feel for the local culture<br />

inside these suites, which pay homage to<br />

the desert surroundings and are styled<br />

with Arabian artefacts and antiques.<br />

Each one features an infinity style<br />

private pool that overlooks the golden<br />

dunes. Grab the binoculars from your<br />

room, head out onto the deck and wait<br />

for wildlife, such as gazelle and Arabian<br />

oryx, to wander into view.<br />

DINING & SPA<br />

Al Diwaan invites you dine alfresco on<br />

the veranda for a breathtaking view<br />

of the reserve. Sample indigenous<br />

delicacies before heading upstairs to<br />

Hajar Terrace Bar for drinks. Indulgence<br />

of the pampering kind calls at Timeless<br />

Spa, which specialises in Middle Eastern<br />

and South East Asian aromatherapy<br />

traditions. Still the mind with a session<br />

in the therapy bath.<br />

THE ACTIVITIES<br />

Archery, nature walks, desert drives,<br />

wildlife safaris, falconry, horse riding<br />

and camel trekking are just some of the<br />

thrilling ways to explore. Set off with a<br />

field guide who can offer an insight into<br />

the conservation projects in place as<br />

you search for telltale footprints. Sand<br />

gazelle, the Arabian red fox and Arabian<br />

oryx are among the four-legged friends<br />

who roam the area.<br />

To find out more, call +971 4 832 9900 or visit marriott.com<br />

64 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


EXCEPTIONAL, INDIGENOUS, EXPERIENCE.<br />

Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming<br />

wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure<br />

with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.<br />

HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION<br />

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 971 4 832 9900<br />

OR VISIT THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/ALMAHA


WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA<br />

STAYCATION<br />

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa<br />

Fabled charm meets top-tier luxury at this desert dream getaway<br />

THE ROOMS<br />

Encapsulating the heart and soul of<br />

Arabia, swing open the doors of your<br />

room or suite to reveal an enchanting<br />

desert backdrop. Go wild by booking the<br />

Terrace Room, which offers a panoramic<br />

view of the expansive Palm Grove and<br />

towards the golden dunes where wildlife<br />

such as gazelle, geckos, cornucopias and<br />

the endangered Arabian oryx wander free<br />

in their natural habitat.<br />

THE FOOD<br />

Foodies can embrace the holiday spirit<br />

thanks to the 10-day festive fiesta (from<br />

20-30 <strong>December</strong>) at four of the main<br />

restaurants. Highlights include the<br />

festive brunch at Al Forsan, with its huge<br />

buffet and fun kids' area; the festive tree<br />

lighting on 7 Dec, complete with carols<br />

and traditional bites; and the spectacular<br />

New Year's Gala Dinner at Al Hadheerah,<br />

complete with firework display.<br />

THE ACTIVITIES<br />

The weather is perfect at this time of<br />

year – ideal for ticking all those active<br />

pursuits off your wish list. Improve your<br />

stroke in the infinity pool, embark on a<br />

thrilling dune drive, or explore the local<br />

landscape on a fat bike. Horse and camel<br />

riding is also available – go at sunset for<br />

the best views. At the end of an actionpacked<br />

day, wind down in an outdoor<br />

cabana with a pampering spa treatment.<br />

To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com<br />

66 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


YOUR ULTIMATE DESERT ESCAPE.<br />

Nestled among the dunes, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is the world’s favourite<br />

choice for dream desert getaways.<br />

This oasis of tranquility combines rustic charm with top-tier hospitality and luxury<br />

to bring to life an authentic desert experience.<br />

Book directly with the hotel or through the hotel website<br />

and save on existing offers and special discounts<br />

BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA<br />

Dubai,United Arab Emirates<br />

T:+971 4 809 6194, bas.reservations@meydanhotels.com<br />

babalshams.com<br />

/babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel


WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MÉRIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT<br />

STAYCATION<br />

Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort<br />

Ramp up the fun factor on an all all-inclusive break at this family-friendly resort in Fujairah<br />

THE ROOMS<br />

Nestled between the ocean and the<br />

mountains, this popular beach resort<br />

is a draw card for fun seekers. Wake<br />

up to the sounds of waves lapping the<br />

shore and the marvellous sight of the Al<br />

Hajar mountain range, the highest in<br />

the Arabian Peninsula. The Penthouse<br />

Bedroom Suite has more than enough<br />

space for larger broods, accommodating<br />

up to nine people in style.<br />

THE FOOD<br />

Home to eight dining venues, your<br />

taste buds are in for an adventure, too.<br />

You can sink your teeth into delicious<br />

grills at the newly-refurbished Gonu as<br />

the fresh ocean breeze washes over you.<br />

Alternatively, head to Views Restaurant<br />

for a delicious east-meets-west fusion<br />

buffet and live music or, for a taste of the<br />

exotic, simply reserve your table at the<br />

elegant Indian restaurant Swaad.<br />

THE ACTIVITIES<br />

For some adrenaline-pumping fun, get<br />

warmed up for the resort’s own obstacle<br />

course, the Al Aqah Challenge. Featuring<br />

the first-of-its-kind rope course tower<br />

on the East Coast, you can take part in<br />

five activities under the watchful eye of<br />

the expert instructors. From zooming<br />

through the air on the zip lines to scaling<br />

the climbing wall, it’s sure to bring out<br />

your competitive side.<br />

To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com<br />

68 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI<br />

STAYCATION<br />

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai<br />

Celebrate the festive season at the world's tallest five-star hotel<br />

THE ROOMS<br />

Having transformed itself into a festive<br />

wonderland, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is<br />

a fitting place to spend the holidays, with<br />

ample space to welcome guests. Its 1,608<br />

guestrooms and suites have luxurious<br />

finishings – think marble bathrooms with<br />

oversized tubs – with views of the glittering<br />

skyline or Dubai Water Canal. Families can<br />

book a suite and spread out in two separate<br />

living and sleeping areas.<br />

THE FOOD<br />

There are 15 award-winning restaurants<br />

and bars at the property, each serving<br />

up a festive treat. Marvel at life-sized<br />

gingerbread house at the entrance of La<br />

Farine Café & Bakery, before having a cosy<br />

afternoon tea. Join the Festive Wanderlust<br />

brunch on 25 Dec, which promises a merry<br />

time with 11 live stations, or ring in 2019<br />

with a six-course menu at Prime68, as<br />

fireworks illuminate the night's sky.<br />

THE ACTIVITIES<br />

The hotel is close to many of Dubai's top<br />

attractions, but there are lots of perks<br />

that'll tempt you to linger at the property.<br />

Take a dip in the sparkling outdoor<br />

swimming pool or, for a spot of pampering,<br />

head to the opulent Saray Spa, which has 17<br />

treatment rooms and the UAE's only Dead<br />

Sea floatation pool. Try The Saray Golden<br />

Hammam, which includes a decadent skin<br />

massage using 24-karat gold.<br />

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />

70 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


Festive Celebrations<br />

at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai.<br />

Elevate your festivities to new heights at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai,<br />

your ultimate dining destination. Make this festive season extra special<br />

for you and your loved ones with impeccable dishes, fun entertainment<br />

and memorable experiences.<br />

FESTIVE MARKET AND EXCITING MENUS<br />

MERRY FAMILY CELEBRATIONS<br />

AFTERNOON TEA IN A LIFE-SIZE GINGERBREAD HOUSE<br />

AWARD-WINNING TURKEY TAKEAWAY<br />

EPIC NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTIES<br />

Indulge in award-winning cuisine this Festive Season, one dish at a time.<br />

For more information, call +971 4 414 3000<br />

or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai<br />

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T + 971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />

jwmarriottmarquisdubai | jwdubaimarquis | jwmarriottmarquisdubai | #jwmmfestive


NEW YEAR,<br />

NEW DEALS!<br />

Welcoming in a new year is the perfect<br />

time for a new experience. Book a<br />

trip to one of our top destinations<br />

like New York City, Edinburgh,<br />

Hong Kong or Sydney.<br />

Book at dnatatravel.com<br />

call 800 DNATA (36282) or<br />

speak to us in-store<br />

Download our app<br />

| Follow us on


INSPIRED BY<br />

Reader offers<br />

Great deals to get you packing<br />

THE HOLIDAYS ARE COMING<br />

Whether you're hoping to see some<br />

winter snow, or want to spend the<br />

festive break on a tropical island like<br />

Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort<br />

(page 75), we've got a deal for you…<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 73


THE<br />

FANTASTIC<br />

FOUR<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

1<br />

GEORGIA<br />

WINTER SKI GETAWAY<br />

4 nights starting from<br />

USD480 per person<br />

Includes: A 2-night stay in Tbilisi<br />

and 2 nights in Gudauri ski resort;<br />

4-star accommodation with daily<br />

breakfast; return airport transfers<br />

including a transfer from Tbilisi<br />

to Gudauri ski resort; city tours of<br />

Tbilisi and Mtksheta (the old capital<br />

of Georgia); and a day tour to the<br />

Ananuri-Kazbegi mountains.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 March 2019.<br />

2<br />

FRANCE<br />

CLUB MED ALL-INCLUSIVE<br />

SKI HOLIDAY<br />

4 nights starting from<br />

USD1,085 per person<br />

Includes: 4 nights at the<br />

4-star Club Med Grand Massif<br />

Samoens Morillon in a club<br />

room; daily breakfast, lunch,<br />

dinner and drinks; ski passes<br />

and ski lessons; entertainment;<br />

complimentary access to kids'<br />

club for ages 4-17.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 March 2019.<br />

3<br />

ICELAND<br />

WINTER ADVENTURES<br />

6 nights starting from<br />

USD2,315 per person<br />

Includes: Small group tour<br />

in comfortable tourist class<br />

accommodation with daily<br />

breakfast; 2 lunches and 2<br />

dinners; exploration of Iceland's<br />

glaciers and waterfalls; excursion<br />

in search of the dazzling displays<br />

of the Northern Lights; natural<br />

hot springs bathing; Golden<br />

Circle sightseeing; Lava caving;<br />

exploration of Reykjavik; and<br />

transportation throughout.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 March 2019.<br />

4<br />

FINLAND<br />

ULTIMATE ARTIC ADVENTURE<br />

7 nights starting from<br />

USD3,765 per person<br />

Includes: 6 nights in first class hotels;<br />

1 night in Glass Igloo; daily breakfast<br />

and 4 lunches; daily activities<br />

including King Crab Safari; Reindeer<br />

Farm with sledge drive; Snowshoes<br />

safari; visit to Artic Snow Hotel and<br />

dinner; Husky Farm visit with sledge<br />

drive; Rovaniemi and Santa Claus<br />

Village; Sampo Icebreaker cruise and<br />

ice swimming; Kemi Snow Castle<br />

visit; return airport transfers and<br />

transportation throughout.<br />

Valid from: 6 January to<br />

24 March 2019.<br />

74 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS<br />

THAILAND<br />

ANANTARA PHUKET LAYAN<br />

RESORT & SPA<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD765 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Sala<br />

Pool Villa with breakfast daily<br />

and return airport transfers.<br />

Offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 January 2019.<br />

AROUND<br />

THE<br />

WORLD<br />

Universal Studios Singapore<br />

UNITED KINGDOM<br />

MAYKENBEL LUXURY<br />

SERVICED APARTMENTS,<br />

LONDON<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD482 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />

Studio Apartment at 130 Queen's<br />

Gate and return airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 March 2019.<br />

Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Spa<br />

GERMANY<br />

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER<br />

JAHRESZEITEN, HAMBURG<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD810 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe<br />

Room Courtyard with breakfast<br />

daily and return airport transfers.<br />

Offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 March 2019.<br />

Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris<br />

Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort<br />

Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg<br />

FRANCE<br />

LE ROYAL MONCEAU,<br />

RAFFLES PARIS<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD1,110 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />

Studio Room with breakfast daily<br />

and return airport transfers.<br />

Offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

INTERCONTINENTAL<br />

PRAGUE HOTEL<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD260 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />

Classic Room with breakfast daily<br />

and return airport transfers.<br />

Offer: 15% discount on room<br />

rate and complimentary<br />

upgrade to Deluxe Room.<br />

Valid from: Now until 31 March 2019.<br />

MALDIVES<br />

OUTRIGGER KONOTTA<br />

MALDIVES RESORT<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD1466 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />

Beach Villa with private pool,<br />

breakfast and dinner daily and<br />

return seaplane transfers.<br />

Offer: 35% discount on room<br />

rate, complimentary upgrade to<br />

half board and 20% discount on<br />

seaplane transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

28 April 2019.<br />

SINGAPORE<br />

FAMILY FUN AT UNIVERSAL<br />

STUDIOS TM , SENTOSA<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD335 per person<br />

Includes: A 3-night stay at<br />

Orchard Hotel Singapore with<br />

breakfast daily; 1-day pass to<br />

Universal Studios Sentosa,<br />

including unlimited access to<br />

cutting-edge rides including<br />

Transformers The Ride, roller<br />

coasters and many more; and<br />

return transfers to Sentosa.<br />

Offer: 20% discount on the<br />

room rate.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

28 April 2019.<br />

TURKEY<br />

RITZ-CARLTON ISTANBUL<br />

3 nights starting from<br />

USD346 per person<br />

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe<br />

City View Room with breakfast<br />

daily and return airport transfers.<br />

Offer: 30% discount on room rate.<br />

Valid from: Now until<br />

31 January 2019.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 75


DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS<br />

WEEKEND<br />

ESCAPES<br />

Hilton Dubai Al Habtoor City<br />

Jumeirah At Saadiyat Island Abu Dhabi<br />

Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai<br />

UAE<br />

JUMEIRAH AT SAADIYAT ISLAND<br />

ABU DHABI<br />

1 night starting from USD341<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: Special rate.<br />

Includes: Stay in an Ocean Deluxe Room<br />

with breakfast and dinner and return<br />

airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until 24 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

ANANTARA EASTERN MANGROVES<br />

HOTEL & SPA<br />

1 night starting from USD194 per person<br />

Special offer: 15% discount on room rate.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Balcony Room<br />

with breakfast and dinner and return<br />

airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until 31 October 2019.<br />

(Book 7 days prior to arrival.)<br />

RADISSON BLU YAS ISLAND<br />

ABU DHABI<br />

2 nights starting from USD127<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: Special rate.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room<br />

with breakfast.<br />

Valid from: Now until 24 Decemeber <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

GRAND HYATT ABU DHABI HOTEL<br />

& RESIDENCES EMIRATES PEARL<br />

1 night starting from USD105<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: 20% discount on room rate<br />

and upgrade to next room category.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with<br />

breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until 30 September 2019.<br />

(Book by 31 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>).<br />

NIKKI BEACH RESORT & SPA DUBAI<br />

1 night starting from USD195<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Covet Room with<br />

breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until 24 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

HILTON DUBAI AL HABTOOR CITY<br />

1 night starting from USD100<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: 10% discount on room rate.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Guest Room with<br />

breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until 30 April 2019.<br />

(Book by 25 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>).<br />

OMAN<br />

THE CHEDI MUSCAT<br />

4 nights starting from USD1,122<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: 15% discount, a<br />

complimentary upgrade to next room<br />

category, 10% discount at the spa and a<br />

10% discount on food and beverage.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Serai Room with daily<br />

breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />

Valid from: Now until 31 January 2019.<br />

BAHRAIN<br />

SOFITEL BAHRAIN ZALLAQ<br />

THALASSA SEA AND SPA<br />

3 nights starting from USD321<br />

per person<br />

Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive<br />

an additional night free.<br />

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room<br />

with breakfast and daily and return<br />

airport transfers.<br />

Grand Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Residences<br />

Emirates Pearl<br />

Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq<br />

Thalassa Sea And Spa<br />

How to book<br />

By calling dnata on<br />

+971 4 316 6666<br />

By stepping into a dnata outlet<br />

or by visiting dnatatravel.com<br />

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and<br />

receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.<br />

76 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


THE PERFECT<br />

SKI HOLIDAY<br />

All-Inclusive by Club Med<br />

7 NIGHTS,<br />

ALL-INCLUSIVE<br />

+ FLIGHTS FROM<br />

AED8,899pp*<br />

All-Inclusive package includes:<br />

Premium Rooms Gourmet Cuisine Beverages Expert Childcare Over 60 sports Ski Lift Pass Ski Lessons<br />

...and so much more!<br />

Experience originality at Club Med Saint Moritz Roi Soleil nestled at the foot<br />

of the Swiss Alps – the birthplace of Alpine Skiing, an ideal choice for<br />

an All-Inclusive, hassle free skiing holiday.<br />

Find out more at www.dnatatravel.com<br />

To book call 800 DNATA (36282) or<br />

speak to us in-store<br />

Download our app<br />

| Follow us on<br />

*Terms & conditions applied. Price is per person based on two people staying seven nights at the 4* Club Med<br />

Saint Moritz Soleil Hotel on a all-inclusive basis, with return economy flights. Traveling between 01/12/<strong>2018</strong><br />

to 31/03/2019. Subject to availability.


DIGITAL<br />

Reethi Faru Resort<br />

Win a Maldives holiday!<br />

In need of a tropical island escape?<br />

We’re giving away a three-night<br />

stay at Reethi Faru Resort. Just<br />

a 45-minute seaplane ride away<br />

from Male International Airport,<br />

the lucky recipient will stay in<br />

a Jacuzzi Beach Villa on a halfboard<br />

basis, with a complimentary<br />

massage for two people and a<br />

diving activity thrown in. To enter,<br />

visit worldtravellermagazine.com<br />

Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara<br />

Happy<br />

GET CLICK<br />

Twiddling your thumbs<br />

between issues? Simply visit<br />

worldtravellermagazine.com<br />

for even more travel inspo, and<br />

carry on the conversation<br />

on our social channels<br />

Follow us on Instagram<br />

@dnataworldtraveller<br />

to double tap our dreamy<br />

destination shots and tag us<br />

in your images for a chance to<br />

feature on our wall.<br />

MINI BREAK<br />

Our handy guides to easy-toreach<br />

destinations perfect for<br />

a long weekend away<br />

Used up all your annual<br />

leave? There’s still time to<br />

squeeze in one last trip of the<br />

year. For inspiration, head<br />

straight to our weekends<br />

section for ideas on where to<br />

spend a your free days, as well<br />

as top hotels on home turf.<br />

Palazzo Versace<br />

Dubai<br />

Find us on Facebook<br />

@worldtravellermagazine<br />

and stay up to date with travel<br />

stories as we post them.<br />

Tweet with us<br />

@WT_Magazine<br />

– make the most of your<br />

280-character allowance<br />

by sharing your best travel<br />

moments with us.<br />

TRAVEL<br />

INSPIRATION AT<br />

YOUR FINGERTIPS<br />

An aerial view of Emirates<br />

Palace, by Seawings<br />

STAYCATIONS<br />

Hot hotels on your doorstep<br />

that’ll put you in a holiday<br />

state of mind<br />

Available on your desktop,<br />

tablet and smartphone<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 79


Suite dreams<br />

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a<br />

suite that has a character and style all of its own<br />

Signature Suite<br />

Hotel Montalembert, Paris<br />

Though renowned for its extravagant palace hotels, it's the boutique<br />

properties of Paris where guests really get to savour the vibe of the city.<br />

Styled to feel as though you're staying in your own apartment, albeit<br />

one housed at the top of a beautiful Haussmann-style building which<br />

dates to 1926, the Signature Suite at the wonderfully welcoming Hotel<br />

Montalembert is dressed in the finery you'd expect of Paris: heavy oak<br />

flooring, marble in the bathroom, silk curtains and Hermès’ detail.<br />

The walls are also adorned with paintings by French artist Jean-Pierre<br />

Bourquin, yet it's the framed real-life shot of Eiffel Tower that you<br />

won't be able to take your eyes off. Hotel Montalembert is a member of the<br />

Preferred Hotels & Resorts L.V.X. Collection.<br />

80 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>


Abu Dhabi boasts a treasure trove of culture, just waiting to be discovered.<br />

From its rich historic traditions to its vibrant, dynamic arts scene.<br />

From a wealth of spectacular sites which offer a window into the past, to<br />

a calendar of world-class events with contemporary vigour, tradition and<br />

heritage.<br />

Now, all of Abu Dhabi’s cultural heritage is in one place for you.<br />

Abu Dhabi Culture is an easy-to-use platform offering the full breadth and<br />

depth of Abu Dhabi’s cultural information, right at your fingertips.<br />

Explore every historic topic, keep up-to-date with every calendar event,<br />

browse our latest photography and videography libraries, or go exploring<br />

via the walk-throughs and interactive maps.

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