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INSPIRED BY<br />
ISSUE 128 | DECEMBER <strong>2018</strong> | COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />
Mexico calls<br />
Dreamy days in Riviera Maya<br />
Produced in Dubai Production City<br />
ISTANBUL<br />
INNSBRUCK<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
ABU DHABI
SEASON’S GREETINGS<br />
SEASON’S GREETINGS<br />
jaresortshotels.com @jatheresort @jatheresort
JA Jingle<br />
ALL THE WAY<br />
Get ready to ho ho ho and spend a<br />
magical festive season with us<br />
Christmas Tree Lighting: 13 th Dec | 6pm – 8pm<br />
Winter Wonderland: 13 th Dec – 9 th Jan 2019 | 4pm – 10pm<br />
Christmas Eve Dinner: 24 th Dec | 7pm – 11pm<br />
Christmas Lunch: 25 th Dec | 12.30pm – 3.30pm<br />
Sunset Pool Party: 28 th Dec | 7pm – 11pm<br />
New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner: 31 st Dec | 7pm till late<br />
New Year’s Resolution Brunch: 1 st Jan | 11am – 3.30pm<br />
Eastern Christmas Dinner: 6 th Jan | 6pm – 11pm<br />
For bookings or more information please contact us on:<br />
+971 4 814 5604 | restaurant.reservation@jaresorts.com<br />
SEASON’S GREETINGS
WELCOME<br />
NOTE<br />
THIS<br />
MONTH’S<br />
TRAVEL<br />
COMPANIONS<br />
As another year draws to a close – how time flies! – the places we've<br />
visited and the people we've met along the way have shaped us,<br />
which is what makes travelling such a valuable experience.<br />
The <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> team has ticked a fair few travel goals off<br />
the list, from a family-friendly holiday in Seminyak to a luxurious<br />
Managing Director<br />
Victoria Thatcher<br />
Editorial Director<br />
John Thatcher<br />
General Manager<br />
David Wade<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Faye Bartle<br />
faye@hotmediapublishing.com<br />
Content Writer<br />
Habiba Azab<br />
Art Director<br />
Kerri Bennett<br />
Senior Designer<br />
Hiral Kapadia<br />
Senior Advertising Manager<br />
Mia Cachero<br />
mia@hotmediapublishing.com<br />
Production Manager<br />
Muthu Kumar<br />
INSPIRED BY<br />
summer city break in the UK capital and a solo adventure to<br />
vibrant Thailand. We've enjoyed sharing a selection of our best<br />
travel stories – and those of our contributors – with you, and we<br />
hope that we have provided plenty of food for thought when it<br />
comes to organising your next trip.<br />
If you're looking to get away for holidays, turn to page 21<br />
where our travel insider Emily Williams highlights the best<br />
places to welcome in the New Year. If Edinburgh appeals, be<br />
sure to read our locals' guide (page 26), in which three insiders<br />
reveal the must-see sights and experiences. If you prefer to stay<br />
closer to home, our mini guide to Abu Dhabi (page 58), inspired<br />
by UAE National Day, highlights everything we love about the<br />
capital, including a few new discoveries. See you in 2019!<br />
Happy travels,<br />
Faye Bartle<br />
Find us at…<br />
ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com<br />
FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine<br />
INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller<br />
TWITTER @WT_Magazine<br />
p22 Toro Toro's<br />
RICHARD SANDOVAL<br />
shares his best eats<br />
p24 Interior designer and<br />
author LEYLA ULUHANLI<br />
opens her travel journal<br />
p26 GARETH DAVIES<br />
tells us how to explore<br />
Edinburgh on foot<br />
Photography credits:<br />
Getty Images and Phocal Media<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part<br />
without written permission from<br />
HOT Media Publishing is strictly<br />
prohibited. All prices mentioned<br />
are correct at time of press<br />
but may change. HOT Media<br />
Publishing does not accept<br />
liability for omissions or errors in<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>.<br />
Tel: 00971 4 364 2876<br />
Fax: 00971 4 369 7494<br />
COVER IMAGE<br />
Hotel Esencia<br />
Win!<br />
Find out how you can<br />
win a three-night stay<br />
at Reethi Faru Resort<br />
in Maldives, on<br />
page 79<br />
p63 MICHELLE KARAM<br />
of Travel Junkie Diary,<br />
shares her great escapes<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 3
CONTENTS<br />
<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
19<br />
Velaa Private Island<br />
REGULARS<br />
8 15 21 22<br />
TRAVEL GOALS<br />
GLOBETROTTER<br />
TRENDING DESTINATIONS<br />
CHEF’S TOP TABLES<br />
From the Abu Dhabi desert to<br />
Wild travel experiences, feel-<br />
dnata Travel’s Emily Williams<br />
Richard Sandoval transports us<br />
a frosted lake in Hangzhou and<br />
good breaks and new adventures<br />
selects the best places to<br />
to his favourite restaurants in<br />
the forests of Karnataka<br />
on your doorstep<br />
welcome in the New Year<br />
Miami, Mexico City and New York<br />
24 26 80<br />
A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED<br />
Interior designer and author Leyla<br />
Uluhanli shares the trips that<br />
inspire her, in work and in life<br />
THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO EDINBURGH<br />
Three insiders share the best arts and<br />
culture spots, foodie delights and mustsee<br />
sights of this vibrant city<br />
SUITE DREAMS<br />
Get into the bohemian vibe of the<br />
Left Bank at the boutique Hotel<br />
Montalembert in Paris<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 5
CONTENTS<br />
40<br />
Istanbul<br />
32<br />
TAKE ME TO THE RIVER<br />
Ancient temples, mystic caves, weird<br />
critters: Mexico’s Riviera Maya serves<br />
up surreal, unforgettable adventures<br />
FEATURES<br />
40<br />
GOLDEN TIMES<br />
In revisiting Istanbul, Nick Redman<br />
finds himself reunited<br />
with his old flame<br />
48<br />
SNEAK PEAK<br />
With futuristic architecture and<br />
mountains all around, Innsbruck is a<br />
city break and a ski holiday in one<br />
WEEKENDS<br />
58 63 64 73<br />
A LONG WEEKEND<br />
IN ABU DHABI<br />
We shine a light on the UAE<br />
capital’s enduring appeal<br />
MY GREAT ESCAPES<br />
Michelle Karam, founder<br />
of Travel Junkie Diary, shares<br />
her best adventures<br />
STAYCATIONS<br />
Enjoy a well-deserved<br />
weekend away at these<br />
luxurious hotels and resorts<br />
READER OFFERS<br />
Take advantage of<br />
our exclusive deals for<br />
your next adventure<br />
6 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
Inspiration. Expertly crafted.<br />
Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel,<br />
is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for<br />
a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites,<br />
over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams,<br />
a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities,<br />
as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.<br />
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai<br />
jwmarriott.com/DXBJW<br />
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
8 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
TRAVEL GOALS<br />
THE EMPTY QUARTER,<br />
ABU DHABI<br />
The world's largest sand desert, on the outskirts of the<br />
emirate, is the place to live out your Arabian dreams.<br />
Journey to Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, which<br />
appears like a mirage amid the dunes, but don’t be fooled<br />
by the stillness of the landscape. This luxurious oasis is<br />
an adventure-seeker’s playground, offering thrilling fourwheel<br />
drives across the shifting sands, the chance to fly<br />
down the dunes on a sandboard, or saddle-up an Arabian<br />
stallion for a gallop along the winding trails. Sequester<br />
yourself away in a Royal Pavilion Pool Villa, set in a<br />
secluded spot, with golden hues as far as the eye can see.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 9
10 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />
TAKE ME THERE
TRAVEL GOALS<br />
WEST LAKE, HANGZHOU<br />
This serene freshwater lake in Hangzhou is<br />
mesmerising at any time of year but in the winter,<br />
when the snow falls, it is transformed into a<br />
wonderland of icy delights. The magical dusting is<br />
a novel draw for locals, who eagerly await a seasonal<br />
deluge of snowflakes, although the lake's classic<br />
beauty means it can become crowded at the best of<br />
times. Avoid the throngs by venturing out early in the<br />
morning. Simply walking or biking around the bank<br />
is the best way to appreciate its allure, including the<br />
picturesque gardens dotted with pavilions. No wonder<br />
the city once captured the heart of Marco Polo.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 11
12 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />
TAKE ME THERE
TRAVEL GOALS<br />
KOLLUR, KARNATAKA<br />
A vehicle weaves its way along the track that bisects the<br />
dense forest of this small temple-town situated at the<br />
foot of the Western Ghats, a UNESCO <strong>World</strong> Heritage<br />
Site. Usually 50 shades of green, this infrared photograph<br />
(taken by drone) washes the landscape with a purple haze,<br />
highlighting the array of hues of the foliage. It’s a popular<br />
spot for hikers. Indeed, there are many trails established<br />
in the national parks and sanctuaries of Karnataka, where<br />
groups led by a Forest Department guide are offered an<br />
education in the area’s rich flora and fauna, with the option<br />
to stay overnight in the rest houses of the jungle.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 13
DECEMBER<br />
Globetrotter<br />
Be informed, be inspired, be there<br />
THE MOST<br />
DELIGHTFUL STAY<br />
Inspired by the new Mary<br />
Poppins Returns film, The<br />
Kensington hotel in London<br />
is offering parents some<br />
well-deserved respite with<br />
its new Imperial Nannies<br />
package. Check into a top<br />
suite and you'll be matched<br />
with a multilingual au pair<br />
who’ll swoop in to look after<br />
your children for 12 hours a<br />
day, complete with a carpet<br />
bag full of surprises and fun<br />
excursions included. It’s<br />
practically perfect in every<br />
way. Available to book from<br />
21 Dec <strong>2018</strong> to 31 Mar 2019.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 15
GLOBETROTTER<br />
THE ANIMAL KINGDOM<br />
Be a wild one<br />
Tick these amazing animal experiences<br />
off your bucket list…<br />
Anantara Golden<br />
Triangle Elephant<br />
Camp & Resort<br />
THAILAND<br />
Walking with elephants<br />
If you’ve always dreamed<br />
of walking with elephants,<br />
Anantara Golden Triangle<br />
Elephant Camp & Resort,<br />
located on a jungle ridge<br />
in the Golden Triangle in<br />
northern Thailand, will deliver<br />
an encounter to remember.<br />
Home to a herd of rescued<br />
elephants, you can take part<br />
in the Walking with Giants<br />
experience, which includes<br />
two hours spent with the<br />
majestic mammals in their<br />
natural surroundings with their<br />
mahouts (keepers) and a vet<br />
or biologist. Wander with them<br />
through the jungle and learn<br />
more about their habitat and<br />
habits, or simply enjoy their<br />
peaceful presence.<br />
INDIA<br />
Step into The Jungle Book<br />
Would-be Mowgli’s can trek<br />
deep into the jungle that<br />
inspired the original The<br />
Jungle Book thanks to Taj<br />
Safaris’ dedicated Wildlife<br />
Escape. Be among the first<br />
to venture into the recently<br />
re-opened jungles of Central<br />
India: the aforementioned<br />
Baghvan in Pench National<br />
Park, Mahua Kothi in<br />
Bandhavgarh National Park,<br />
Pashan Garh in Panna National<br />
Park and Banjaar Tola in Kanha<br />
Mahua Kothi in<br />
Bandhavgarh<br />
National Park. Take an early<br />
morning four-wheel drive tour<br />
with a resident naturalist to<br />
spot the wildlife that inspired<br />
Rudyard Kipling’s characters,<br />
including the famous Sher<br />
Khan – the Royal Bengal Tiger<br />
– followed by high tea at the<br />
lodge and evenings spent<br />
around the campfire listening<br />
for animal calls. Available at all<br />
Taj Safari lodges in India.<br />
STRETCH YOUR PAWS<br />
If you rarely leave home without your canine companion, a glamorous trip to Monaco<br />
may just win you over. The tourism board has unveiled bespoke itineraries for pooches<br />
and their owners, with seven of its nine hotels offering dog-friendly services and<br />
packages. From Monacair’s direct helicopter transfers from Nice airport (it takes just<br />
seven-minutes, so is ideal for restless pets) to Hotel de Paris, which welcomes you with<br />
a plush dog bed, food and toys, and the decadent pet-friendly menu at Le Méridien<br />
Beach Plaza, your fur baby will be chasing his tail with excitement.<br />
16 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
Wellness Haven at Saray Spa.<br />
Renew for the journey ahead.<br />
A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient<br />
healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest.<br />
The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, one Dead Sea treatment room boasting<br />
the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two Private Luxury Spa Suites.<br />
Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from<br />
the results-oriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion.<br />
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE<br />
T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
GLOBETROTTER<br />
ESCAPE TO THE<br />
MOUNTAINS<br />
Why these destinations are peaking…<br />
SKIING IN<br />
AZERBAIJAN<br />
Now until March is ski<br />
season in Azerbaijan.<br />
You’ll find the best<br />
resorts at Shahdag<br />
and Gabala but, for<br />
more challenging<br />
pistes, try the black<br />
runs at Tufandag<br />
Resort. Stay at Qafqaz<br />
Tufandag Mountain<br />
Resort Hotel, which<br />
has a rope-way<br />
passing by that’ll take<br />
you straight to the<br />
mountain ski centre.<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
IN HATTA<br />
Thrill-seekers can get<br />
their kicks at Meraas'<br />
new Hatta Wadi Hub,<br />
where you can test<br />
your skills at ziplining,<br />
mountain biking, wall<br />
climbing and even<br />
axe throwing, among<br />
other activities before<br />
braving the shoots at<br />
Hatta Drop-in (Asia’s<br />
first water jump park).<br />
Stay the night by<br />
glamping at Hatta<br />
Damani Lodges.<br />
STARGAZING<br />
IN OMAN<br />
There’s a mega meteor<br />
shower this month.<br />
To view the shooting<br />
stars, head to Alila<br />
Jabal Akhdar in the<br />
Al Hajar Mountains,<br />
where astronomer<br />
Mike Dalley is<br />
hosting stargazing<br />
masterclasses leading<br />
up to and during the<br />
peak of the big event.<br />
The best days to see<br />
it are 14 and 15 Dec at<br />
around 2am.<br />
NEW OF NOTE<br />
Bluewaters Dubai<br />
What’s it all about? The site of the<br />
world’s largest observation wheel,<br />
Ain Dubai, this oasis off the coast of<br />
Dubai Marina has opened the drawbridge<br />
to visitors.<br />
What’s the vibe? For a small island,<br />
it has an edgy urban buzz, with<br />
residences, hotels, and plenty of shops<br />
and restaurants to keep you busy, all<br />
connected by pedestrian-friendly areas.<br />
How do I get there? By car, boat or foot.<br />
There’s a direct road line to Sheikh Zayed<br />
Road, pedestrian access from The Beach<br />
opposite JBR, and an RTA-operated water<br />
taxi service.<br />
How shall I explore? Head to shopping<br />
and dining hub The Wharf to check out<br />
the eclectic mix of cafés, restaurants and<br />
bistros. Next, stroll along Central Avenue,<br />
which borders the landside of The Wharf,<br />
before heading to North Walk and Wharf<br />
Avenue, which edge the waterfront,<br />
circling Ain Dubai Plaza beneath the<br />
observation wheel.<br />
Can I stay there? For sure. The island’s<br />
trio of non-gaming resorts – Caesars<br />
Palace Bluewaters Dubai, The Residences<br />
at Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai<br />
(serviced apartments) and Caesars Resort<br />
Bluewaters Dubai – offer a luxurious<br />
experience. Dine at Gordon Ramsay's<br />
Hell’s Kitchen, be pampered at Qua Spa,<br />
and chill at private beach club Cove Beach.<br />
A MALDIVIAN MILESTONE<br />
Velaa Private Island is celebrating its<br />
fifth anniversary this month, with a<br />
wow line-up of activities and events,<br />
including sports tournaments and a<br />
party taking place on 20 <strong>December</strong>,<br />
featuring Czech violincellist Tereza<br />
Kovalova and a gourmet food journey<br />
courtesy of Chef Gaushan de Silva.<br />
Happy Anniversary!<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 19
GLOBETROTTER<br />
US$18.7<br />
BILLION<br />
THE AMOUNT<br />
THAT’S EXPECTED<br />
TO BE SPENT ON<br />
WELLNESS TRIPS<br />
BY THOSE IN MENA<br />
IN 2022, AN 11.8%<br />
GROWTH<br />
ON 2017*<br />
Kneipp path hydrotherapy treatment area,<br />
Clinique La Prairie<br />
A RESORT ON<br />
OUR RADAR<br />
Family-friendly staycation<br />
favourite, JA Jebel Ali<br />
Golf Resort, has been<br />
renamed as JA The<br />
Resort, Jebel Ali Beach,<br />
Dubai. Home to three<br />
properties – JA Beach<br />
Hotel, JA Palm Tree Court<br />
and JA Lake View Hotel<br />
(opening in September<br />
2019) – there’s plenty<br />
to keep you occupied,<br />
including an 800-metre<br />
private beach, four<br />
landscaped swimming<br />
pools, over 16 restaurants<br />
and bars, and the David<br />
Leadbetter Golf Academy<br />
where you can learn this<br />
coaching master’s simple<br />
philosophy for teaching<br />
the golf swing.<br />
Feel-good trips<br />
Replenish your end-of-year energy reserves with a restorative<br />
break away at these leading wellbeing destinations…<br />
FOR A WINTER BOOST:<br />
Team mind-clearing scenery<br />
with a holistic approach<br />
to wellbeing at Clinique<br />
La Prairie Switzerland. Its<br />
Winter Boost Program,<br />
available until March 2019,<br />
helps combat the winter<br />
blues with five nights of<br />
expert pampering, including<br />
daily winter infusions and<br />
deep tissue massages.<br />
FOR THE SLEEP-DEPRIVED:<br />
Not catching enough zzz’s?<br />
The new Bedtime Rituals &<br />
Sleeping Therapy stay package<br />
at Mandarin Oriental, Milan can<br />
help you get a good night’s<br />
rest. Unwind with the inroom<br />
Oriental Sleeping Ritual<br />
massage and, with a spritz<br />
of your sleep-inducing pillow<br />
spray, settle in for a stretch of<br />
undisturbed shut-eye.<br />
FOR FAMILIES: The spa<br />
town of Druskininkai in<br />
Lithuania, known for its<br />
mineral waters, curative<br />
mud and squeaky clean<br />
air, takes a family-friendly<br />
approach to wellbeing,<br />
with yoga for kids, lots of<br />
nature-based experiences<br />
and child-friendly facilities,<br />
such as the steam bath at<br />
Druskininkai Aquapark.<br />
Featuring handy to-do and packing lists, curated<br />
itineraries, space for travel notes and full colour<br />
world maps to doodle on, the cross-grain lambskin<br />
Smythson Off the Beaten Track Travel Journal is a<br />
great stocking filler for adventurers. smythson.com<br />
*Source: GWI’s Global Wellness Tourism Economy report<br />
20 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
TRENDING<br />
DESTINATIONS<br />
Party hats on: dnata Travel’s resident<br />
globetrotter Emily Williams knows<br />
the best places to welcome in 2019<br />
Travelling to Scotland’s historic capital<br />
has never been easier with the launch of<br />
direct flights from Dubai to Edinburgh<br />
with Emirates. In winter, when the nights<br />
are longer, the city bursts into life with<br />
festive market stalls and a torch-lit<br />
procession that kicks off its famous<br />
Hogmanay celebrations for New Year’s<br />
Eve, culminating in a vivid finale that<br />
illuminates Edinburgh Castle. Turn to<br />
page 26 to read our locals’ guide.<br />
The weather is perfect in Hong<br />
Kong in <strong>December</strong>, the last month of<br />
its traditional high season, making it<br />
a great time to go hiking in the hills<br />
and valleys. Its dramatic city skyline<br />
attracts visitors to see its spectacular<br />
countdown to the New Year, which<br />
concludes with a dazzling pyrotechnic<br />
dragon dancing across the sky.<br />
New York City transforms into a<br />
magical winter wonderland at this time<br />
of year. Take a walk through Central Park<br />
where the frozen lake becomes an ice<br />
rink – you can even go sledging there.<br />
More than one million people gather at<br />
Times Square for its atmospheric New<br />
Year’s Eve celebrations. A boat ride<br />
on New York Harbour is an alternative<br />
experience, offering the best view of the<br />
firework display at the Statue of Liberty.<br />
It’s summer in Sydney and therefore<br />
a great time to enjoy the beach life<br />
with the locals. To fully appreciate the<br />
scenery, try the coastal walk from the<br />
beaches of Bondi to Coogee. Due to<br />
its location, Sydney is one of the first<br />
major world cities where the clock<br />
strikes midnight to mark the New Year<br />
and the firework display at the iconic<br />
Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney<br />
Opera House is sure to impress.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 21
FOOD<br />
CHEF’S TOP TABLES<br />
Chef, restaurateur and TV personality Richard Sandoval heads restaurants across the<br />
globe, including Dubai's Pan-Latin favourite Toro Toro<br />
On my<br />
wish list…<br />
Gaggan, in Bangkok. Chef<br />
Anand Gaggan is known for<br />
his experiential progressive<br />
Indian tasting menu and for<br />
offering his guests a warm<br />
Thai welcome. It was recently<br />
voted 'Asia's Best<br />
Restaurant'.<br />
KYU<br />
Miami<br />
I really like this place, an upscale<br />
Asian-American eatery employing<br />
sustainable cooking techniques in<br />
the heart of eclectic Wynwood in<br />
Miami. The chef, Michael Lewis,<br />
is well travelled and he uses those<br />
experiences to influence his woodgrilled<br />
cuisine. Here, he applies the<br />
Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi<br />
– the art of finding perfection in<br />
something imperfect.<br />
FAVOURITE DISH: Tuna tataki<br />
with fermented chili and citrus.<br />
MÁXIMO BISTROT<br />
Mexico City<br />
Chef Eduardo García’s Máximo<br />
Bistrot, which he runs alongside<br />
his wife, showcases local<br />
ingredients from farms around<br />
Mexico City, including the famed<br />
floating gardens of Xochimilco.<br />
Their devotion to all things local<br />
extends to the furniture, while the<br />
menu (the likes of crab soup with<br />
creole corn) changes daily based on<br />
what's in season and available.<br />
FAVOURITE DISH: Deep-water<br />
prawn with chicatana.<br />
ELEVEN<br />
MADISON PARK<br />
New York<br />
In a city where dining trends<br />
change frequently, Eleven<br />
Madison Park is always among<br />
the top tables – it's the current<br />
holder of the 'Best Restaurant in<br />
North America' title. It serves an<br />
8-10 course, modern European<br />
seasonal tasting menu that draws<br />
inspiration from New York to add<br />
a touch of the inventive.<br />
FAVOURITE DISH: Smoked<br />
sturgeon cheesecake with caviar.<br />
COME DINE WITH ME...<br />
Toro Toro, a play on the Spanish word for bull, sets the stage for an artful blend of Pan-<br />
Latin flavours and features amazing cuts of beef cooked in our churrasco grill. I invite you<br />
to sample my unique spin on South and Central American ingredients and flavours, as<br />
you taste your way through an array of savoury small plates.<br />
22 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
CREATE<br />
SPECIAL<br />
MOMENTS<br />
WITH US.<br />
Standing tall in the heart of<br />
Dubai Marina, featuring<br />
incomparable panoramic views<br />
of the city, combine the best<br />
of all worlds with luxurious<br />
accommodation, three<br />
contemporary dining<br />
destinations and a blissful<br />
caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.<br />
DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES<br />
KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET<br />
DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE<br />
T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM<br />
Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites<br />
@marriottharbour
PERSONALITY<br />
A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED<br />
LEYLA<br />
ULUHANLI<br />
The interior designer and author<br />
lays open her travel journal<br />
I consider myself very lucky to have<br />
grown up in the ancient city of Baku.<br />
Some of my earliest memories are<br />
of the grand architecture of the old<br />
palaces and sacred mosques. I also had<br />
the chance to experience the exquisite<br />
décor of some of the best private<br />
homes in the city. In many ways, the<br />
city continues to speak to me now and<br />
is largely reflected in my work.<br />
I constantly draw inspiration<br />
from the amazing spirit, people and<br />
architecture of Moscow, where I live.<br />
I love working on interiors projects<br />
there, especially in the older parts of<br />
the city, filled with historic buildings<br />
so deeply intertwined with the lives of<br />
artists, poets and actors.<br />
I spent eight years capturing the<br />
mosque photography for my book,<br />
visiting a selection of world-renowned<br />
mosques and discovering their<br />
intricate patterns and ornaments.<br />
Córdoba in Spain impacted me the<br />
most – its Grand Mosque is an exquisite<br />
and rare gem of Moorish architecture.<br />
The materials and patterns used for<br />
the decoration are out of this world,<br />
and the place presents an amazing<br />
example of a harmonious union<br />
between East and West.<br />
I’m a citizen of the world, so I don’t<br />
have a favourite destination, but I love<br />
the sea and the ocean. These places<br />
bring me calm and bliss, allowing me<br />
to recharge and get ready for my next<br />
work marathon.<br />
A place that’s still on my wish<br />
list is Polynesia. It’s somewhat of a<br />
childhood dream to visit an exotic<br />
place so far away; something you have<br />
only seen or read about in books. Plus,<br />
it seems like a great vacation spot.<br />
Leyla’s book, Mosques: Splendors of<br />
Islam, published by Rizzoli New York,<br />
is out now<br />
Photo © Cristina Mittermeier<br />
24 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
LOCALS’ GUIDE<br />
THE LOCALS' GUIDE TO<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Revel in the history, culture and creative energy<br />
that gives Scotland’s capital its vibrant character<br />
26 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
LOCALS’ GUIDE<br />
STEP TO IT<br />
Gareth Davies runs<br />
Edinburgh Expert<br />
Walking tours,<br />
taking visitors<br />
under the skin<br />
of the city<br />
edinburghexpert.com<br />
Historic Victoria Street. Photograph<br />
© VisitScotland / Kenny Lam<br />
Visitors are often surprised to learn that<br />
Edinburgh’s New Town is more than 250<br />
years old. They are even more intrigued<br />
when I tell them that the Old Town was<br />
largely rebuilt in the 19th century, so much<br />
of it is more recent than the New Town.<br />
But that’s Edinburgh. It's a city of contrasts<br />
that’s very different throughout the year, so<br />
there’s always an element of the unexpected.<br />
The site was first settled around 3500<br />
years ago and much of the city’s layout harks<br />
back to earlier times with narrow lanes,<br />
cobbled backstreets and bridges that can<br />
be a challenge to navigate – something the<br />
guidebooks don’t prepare you for. Although<br />
I've walked some of the streets hundreds of<br />
times, I still notice new features, and can<br />
find new stories to tell.<br />
The areas I most enjoy showing off are<br />
around the New Town. Many visitors never<br />
look beyond the Royal Mile and Old Town,<br />
so this feels like a whole other side of the<br />
city that people don't expect – it has its own<br />
character and style, a host of history and<br />
culture and some fantastic Georgian-era<br />
architecture. It’s something of a hidden<br />
gem, hiding in plain sight.<br />
My favourite stop-offs? The Scottish<br />
Parliament building, due to its weirdly<br />
wonderful sense of style, as well as<br />
Advocate's Close, one of the narrow lanes<br />
off the Royal Mile, for its spectacular views,<br />
mixture of ancient and modern buildings,<br />
and stories of the historical figures who<br />
have lived there. There's so much to see and<br />
talk about on that single alleyway.<br />
If you have more time, head north of the<br />
New Town to Stockbridge to check out its<br />
independent shops, cafés and restaurants,<br />
before making your way along the Water of<br />
Leith to the historic Dean Village to view<br />
its picturesque 17th-century buildings.<br />
South of the Royal Mile is George Square<br />
and Bristo Square, home to some of the<br />
historic buildings of Edinburgh University,<br />
including the iconic Old College quad<br />
designed by Edinburgh's greatest architects,<br />
Robert Adam and William Playfair.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 27
Scottish National Portrait Gallery interior views<br />
© Keith Hunter & National Galleries of Scotland<br />
Literary fans can<br />
sip a brew at The Elephant<br />
House tea and coffee shop<br />
in the historic quarter,<br />
which authors including J.K.<br />
Rowling and Ian Rankin<br />
have used as a<br />
writing den<br />
ON THE<br />
FRINGE<br />
Shona McCarthy,<br />
chief executive<br />
of the Edinburgh<br />
Festival Fringe<br />
Society, talks art<br />
and culture<br />
1The Edinburgh Fringe Festival,<br />
which takes place every August,<br />
brings together acts and audiences<br />
from all over the world to create an<br />
international melting pot of arts and<br />
culture, from theatre and comedy to<br />
circus, opera, children's shows and<br />
spoken word performances. There’s<br />
nothing quite like wandering through<br />
the city when the Fringe is on and<br />
soaking up the electric atmosphere.<br />
2The impact of the festival is<br />
felt keenly through the year,<br />
with many Fringe artists and<br />
companies adding to a thriving local<br />
creative scene that has transformed<br />
the city into a bucket-list<br />
destination for anyone who<br />
is passionate about the arts.<br />
There are events all year<br />
round, from the Edinburgh<br />
International Science<br />
Festival in April through to<br />
Hogmanay, which rounds<br />
off the annual cultural<br />
offering at the turn of the<br />
New Year – it's always a hive of activity.<br />
3<br />
There are lots of amazing<br />
galleries featuring all kinds of<br />
art and exhibitions, both past<br />
and present. Some favourites include<br />
the Scottish National Portrait Gallery<br />
and the Scottish National Gallery. The<br />
former tells the story of Scotland and<br />
its people with portraits of historical<br />
figures such as Mary Queen of Scots<br />
and Robert Burns, while the National<br />
Gallery has an outstanding fine art<br />
collection, including masterpieces<br />
by Botticelli, Rembrandt, Monet and<br />
Van Gogh, among many others.<br />
The Elephant House<br />
Photo © VisitScotland / Kenny Lam<br />
4The National Museum of<br />
Scotland is another must-see,<br />
with fascinating permanent<br />
exhibits from nature, science, art,<br />
design, fashion and more. Here, you<br />
can find out more about the history<br />
of the area, from pre-history to the<br />
present day, in the Scottish galleries.<br />
5<br />
People often talk about there<br />
being a sense of an artistic<br />
community in the city, one that is<br />
not bound by geography or nationality,<br />
but can give a real sense of belonging<br />
in a different way. What better reason<br />
to visit Edinburgh this winter?<br />
WORDS BY OLIVIA CUTHBERT<br />
28 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
LOCALS’ GUIDE<br />
TRADITIONAL<br />
TASTES<br />
Matthew Korecki,<br />
owner of popular<br />
family-run<br />
restaurant New<br />
Chapter, unravels<br />
the foodie scene<br />
Local flavour<br />
There’s a huge number of independent<br />
restaurants in Edinburgh. People<br />
here tend to seek out hidden gems<br />
– the tucked-away places that serve<br />
incredible food with personalised<br />
service – rather than going for what they<br />
already know with chain restaurants.<br />
New and noteworthy<br />
The restaurant scene is growing rapidly,<br />
with new venues opening every week, so<br />
the quality of the produce, dishes and<br />
service is constantly on the rise. There<br />
has also been an uplift in the number<br />
of dining destinations serving fantastic<br />
global cuisine, be it Swedish, Hungarian,<br />
Nepalese, Filipino or Caribbean food.<br />
Scottish classics<br />
Our elegant sister restaurant Otro,<br />
in the West End, is very popular with<br />
those who want to taste Scottish<br />
ingredients. The Kilted Lobster in<br />
Stockbridge is perfect if you’re in the<br />
mood for seafood, and if you needed<br />
convincing, all profits go towards the<br />
Cooking Up A Storm project to fight food<br />
poverty. For fine dining, I recommend<br />
Restaurant Martin Wishart on The<br />
Shore for a Michelin-star experience.<br />
Quirky cuisine<br />
The Full Moon Dinners at the Secret<br />
Herb Garden on Old Pentland Road are a<br />
magical experience where diners eat in a<br />
beautiful greenhouse by the light of the<br />
moon. Six By Nico on Hanover Street is a<br />
great option too, with themed six-course<br />
tasting menus that change every six<br />
weeks, serving wonderfully creative food.<br />
Market fare<br />
For coffee and cake, The Stockbridge<br />
Market is always a treat. For street food,<br />
head to The Pitt in Leith, which has great<br />
vibes and innovative street food vendors<br />
serving amazing bites every weekend.<br />
Secret Herb<br />
Garden's Full<br />
Moon Dinners<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 29
WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA EASTERN MANGROVES<br />
Life on the edge<br />
For an urban escape in a lush lagoon setting,<br />
Anantara Eastern Mangroves leads the way<br />
Situated on the outskirts of<br />
central Abu Dhabi, along a scenic<br />
stretch of protected mangroves,<br />
this coveted hotel is ideal for those<br />
who want to team outdoor pursuits<br />
with a spot of city sightseeing.<br />
It’s just a 10-minute drive from<br />
downtown, yet Anantara Eastern<br />
Mangroves feels a world away from the<br />
hustle and bustle of the city, with its<br />
waterfront location lending a tranquil vibe.<br />
Make the most of the views by booking<br />
a suite with a view of the lagoons so you<br />
can soak up the surrounds from your<br />
private balcony. Plump for an Anantara<br />
Mangroves Pool Suite, which can<br />
accommodate up to two adults and one<br />
child, and you'll wake up to lush lagoon<br />
views. Make the most of the winter sun<br />
by unwinding on your private terrace<br />
before taking a dip in your plunge pool.<br />
If you’ve got energy to burn, take<br />
a kayak out to explore the mangrove<br />
reserve. Guided tours are available to<br />
ensure you don't miss a thing – herons,<br />
foxes and turtles can usually be spotted.<br />
Stand-up paddleboarding is also on<br />
offer, and there’s a promenade bordering<br />
the waterway (the city’s old corniche)<br />
that’s ideal for jogging and cycling.<br />
A FIVE-STAR SPA<br />
Dedicated spa-goers are sure to be<br />
impressed by the traditional treatments<br />
on offer at Anantara Spa, which is<br />
especially well-known for its signature<br />
hammam rituals. Inspired by the ancient<br />
Turkish bathing tradition, the journey<br />
begins on the warm stone, with time to<br />
bask in the heat, followed by a body buff<br />
with a traditional kese mitt to prep the<br />
skin for receiving the hydrating suds.<br />
After rinsing, you’ll receive a<br />
circulation-pepping scrub followed by<br />
a purifying clay mask. Even your hair<br />
and scalp are given the royal cleansing<br />
30 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
Pachaylen<br />
Anantara Spa<br />
A room with a mangrove view<br />
treatment, with a pressure point face and<br />
head massage to lull you into a deep sense<br />
of relaxation. An olive foam massage and<br />
coffee body polish followed by a cooling<br />
rinse complete this blissful 60-minute<br />
pamper session. However, we highly<br />
recommend that you upgrade with a full<br />
body massage using argan infused oil for<br />
an additional full hour of relaxation.<br />
ALL IN GOOD TASTE<br />
Another draw card is the hotel’s dining<br />
credentials. Its popular Thai restaurant,<br />
Pachaylen, invites you to taste authentic<br />
cuisine in a refined setting. A traditional<br />
kim player sets the tone as contemporarystyled<br />
delights, such as aromatic curries<br />
and spicy salads, are brought to your<br />
table. If you’re unsure what to choose,<br />
simply go with the enduring favourites<br />
of tom yam soup and pad Thai noodles.<br />
For sunset views, head to Impressions<br />
on the rooftop, which serves signature<br />
drinks from 7pm to 2am daily. And if<br />
you’re keen to boost your cooking skills,<br />
you can take part in a Spice Spoons<br />
Middle Eastern and Thai cooking class,<br />
which will take you to Al Mina Fish<br />
Market and the vegetable market across<br />
the road to shop for fresh ingredients.<br />
Back at the resort, a top chef will guide<br />
you with step-by-step instructions<br />
for preparing delicious dishes, giving<br />
you a new skill to take back home.<br />
To find out more, call +971 2 656 1000<br />
or visit anantara.com<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 31
32 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
MEXICO<br />
Take me to to the river<br />
Ancient temples, mystic caves, weird<br />
critters (in the water and on the menu:<br />
Mexico’s Riviera Maya serves up surreal<br />
unforgettable adventures – mere footsteps<br />
from the Caribbean’s most dreamily<br />
relaxing beaches, says Ed Grenby<br />
this is where they were beheaded,<br />
their lifeblood cascading down the<br />
steps of the pyramid in front of you.’<br />
I’ve been to the Caribbean a few<br />
‘And<br />
times – hell, I’m the kind of loser<br />
who even goes off on those half-day historic tours of<br />
dockyards and distilleries and other such thrillers – but<br />
I’ve never heard those words from a tour guide before.<br />
That, I suppose, is because I’ve never been to<br />
Mexico’s Riviera Maya before, contenting myself<br />
instead with circuits of Barbados, Antigua and<br />
Jamaica (‘... and this is where the barrels would<br />
be stored before bottling and labelling ...’).<br />
This year, though, looking for something a little more<br />
exciting – a little less ‘barrel warehouse’, you might say<br />
– I strayed one swipe further down the ‘Caribbean’ page<br />
of the tour operator’s website, and ended up here,<br />
on the eastern edge of Mexico, where the sacrificial<br />
altars of the ancients and the otherworldly natural<br />
wonders of the Yucatan are bordered with beaches<br />
that are every bit as good as Barbados’s and are<br />
washed by the self-same calm Caribbean Sea.<br />
And, truth be told, I didn’t leave those beaches for<br />
the first four days of my fortnight. Well, why would I?<br />
Cloud-soft sand shelved at a perfect 10-degree angle into<br />
waters as warm as a mother’s welcome; and, even with<br />
my shades on, the sea’s blue and the sand’s white and the<br />
fringing forest’s green were literally, squintingly dazzling.<br />
Frigate birds soared and searing-yellow kiskadees<br />
chirped, their high, ringing song as exuberant as the<br />
frigates’ flight. Sea turtles, too, showed their appreciation<br />
of the place, their nests bulging in the sand; and behind<br />
the beach, around my hotel’s two elegantly understated<br />
aquamarine swimming pools, iguanas lazed on the<br />
paths, lordly and unmoving, as if to say, ‘My kind<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 33
MEXICO<br />
has been around since the dinosaurs,<br />
hombre. You can make way for me.’<br />
I wanted my adventure to have a big<br />
dollop of ‘easy’, and Hotel Esencia delivered<br />
on both. It’s a sprinkling of cool, white,<br />
slightly hacienda-style houses and lawns<br />
carved from the jungle, but the luxury<br />
and quiet good taste have a raffish edge.<br />
So there is discreet abstract art and posh<br />
coffee-table books, but also driftwood<br />
bannisters and hammocks slung beneath<br />
the thatched, open-walled palapa huts,<br />
while elegant lamps hang seductively<br />
from trees beside wild coconuts.<br />
The location is Xpu-Ha (amazingly, just<br />
an hour’s drive down the coast from noisy<br />
Cancuń); the ‘X’, I eventually work out, is<br />
pronounced ‘sh’, like the shhhushing of<br />
the wavelets. It’s so hypnotically perfect<br />
that even the daily deposit of algae on the<br />
sand seems appealing once I learn that it’s<br />
actually sargasso (sounds so much more<br />
romantic than ‘seaweed’, no?). But when,<br />
accidentally up early one morning, I see<br />
the sargasso being carefully, cossetingly<br />
hand-cleared from the beach by hotel<br />
staff, I know I’m going to have to look a<br />
little further afield if I want any of the<br />
‘edge’ I’d abandoned Barbados for.<br />
A quick coach trip to Cobá, however,<br />
and I’ve got edge by the bucketful (it’s<br />
here the lifeblood did its cascading thing).<br />
An important Mayan city from the 1st<br />
century AD to the 15th, it’s now a cluster of<br />
stone ruins looming enigmatically from<br />
the middle of a million miles of jungle.<br />
The biggest is the pyramid of devotion<br />
to honey (Why did he get such kudos?<br />
Because the stuff was an important<br />
ingredient in Mayan cement, apparently.<br />
Though once you’ve tasted the local honey,<br />
rich and intense, no explanation for its<br />
status is needed. In fact, it’s a wonder<br />
they ever built anything above one storey<br />
without licking it into ruin.) Incredibly,<br />
you’re allowed to climb the pyramid, and<br />
the experience is unforgettable – not so<br />
much for the views (an infinite ocean of<br />
green treetops) as for the hairs-on-theback-of-your-neck<br />
tingle of knowing that<br />
others once looked down exultantly from<br />
the same spot, but for them it wasn’t<br />
the pride of summiting the 120 steps,<br />
but the eye-bulging, ecstatic madness<br />
of the decapitator or willing decapitee.<br />
Even weirder than the weirdness,<br />
though, is the fact that (given the<br />
weirdness) it’s so pleasant here. The site<br />
is too big to navigate on foot, so people<br />
hire bikes or get chauffeured around on<br />
passenger trikes by their guides, and<br />
the atmosphere is more weekend cycle<br />
in the park than lingering echo of ritual<br />
murder. A five-minute pedal down a<br />
shady path is Cobá’s poc-ta-poc court,<br />
where matches of the Mayans’ get-theball-through-the-hoop-using-only-yourhips<br />
game could go on for days before<br />
reaching their climax with, obviously,<br />
the sacrifice of the winning coach. And<br />
instead of horror, all I can think of is<br />
whether England's coach Gareth Southgate<br />
would be prepared to go all the way and<br />
get his trademark waistcoat bloody.<br />
So the adventure comes pretty easy<br />
round these parts, but the easy can be<br />
adventurous, too. Even international<br />
luxury hotel brands have a dash of<br />
local fizz in their DNA here, and the<br />
Rosewood, where I’m staying next, is<br />
essentially a vast mangrove lagoon that<br />
just happens to have a few (also fairly<br />
vast) rooms scattered around it.<br />
In mine, the cheapest category, as well<br />
as the (count ’em!) indoor bathroom,<br />
outdoor bathroom, walled garden, roof<br />
terrace, sun deck and plunge pool, there’s<br />
a lovely little wooden boat dock on stilts<br />
above the lagoon, where you can see<br />
nothing but jungle and convince yourself<br />
you’re an intrepid explorer. Indeed, if<br />
you sit still there for 30 seconds, you’ve<br />
got a pretty decent chance of spotting<br />
cormorants, iguanas, raccoons, turtles<br />
and, if you’re really lucky, baby crocodiles<br />
(they’re ‘taken somewhere safe’ when<br />
34 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
Opening pages: a<br />
colourful trajinera floats<br />
down a canal. This<br />
page, clockwise from<br />
top left: enjoying an ice<br />
This page: The view from the<br />
cream; Toltec temple<br />
historic area of Candelaria<br />
ruins in Tula; Rosewood<br />
Mayakoba Riviera Maya<br />
Opposite: Contemporary art<br />
in Iglesia de Santa Clara<br />
MEXICO<br />
‘Caves lead off it in all directions, with sweet little bats roosting on<br />
the roofs, and even sweeter little turtles pottering in their waters’<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 35
ROME<br />
36 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
MEXICO<br />
Left: Ik Kil sinkhole<br />
This page: Indo-Pacific<br />
sailfishes hunt sardines<br />
in Yucatán<br />
‘Frigate birds soared and searing-yellow kiskadees chirped,<br />
their high, ringing song as exuberant as the frigates’ flight’<br />
they grow bigger than a metre, says a<br />
hotel-staffer mysteriously, and I can’t<br />
help suspect that’s ‘safe’ as in ‘safe from<br />
not being made into a handbag’).<br />
I don’t even have to leave this heaven<br />
for my next adventure. Pretty much<br />
every mouthful I’ve consumed on this<br />
trip has been exciting (zinging ceviche...<br />
flavour-burst fish tacos... I could go on.<br />
And did), but nothing prepared me for the<br />
Rosewood’s breakfast huevos rancheros<br />
with its side of toasted grasshoppers.<br />
‘They’re just like corn,’ the waiter<br />
reassures me. Which might be true if corn<br />
had little faces and legs and antennae. But<br />
I fear that not eating them would make<br />
me a species traitor in the unceasing<br />
war that wages here between mosquito<br />
and man. Even after finishing off the<br />
bowlful (they’re crispy-crunchy and<br />
kind of moreish), I’ve probably nibbled<br />
a lot less insect than the insects have<br />
nibbled of me over the past few days.<br />
The only thing more ubiquitous than<br />
mozzies is cenotes, the water-filled caverns<br />
and sinkholes that pockmark this part<br />
of Mexico. They range from bath-size to<br />
2km-wide; some sitting at the side of the<br />
road for anyone to dive into, others built<br />
up into sprawling theme parks. But what<br />
they all have in common is alluringly<br />
cool, enticingly clear, bewitchingly blue<br />
and irresistibly swimmable water.<br />
My favourites are Ik Kil (big, busy, but<br />
outrageously Insta-genic, with vines<br />
that hang down into the water from the<br />
jungle above); the complex clustered<br />
together as Rió Secreto (don wetsuits,<br />
hard hats and miners’ lanterns, for<br />
a guided walk/wade/swim/scramble<br />
through an underground river system);<br />
and Gran Cenote. Here, beautiful kids<br />
from the nearby towns laze and flirt on<br />
the hammocks and greenswards, and<br />
steps descend into a sinkhole. Caves<br />
lead off it in all directions, with sweet<br />
little bats roosting (upside down, of<br />
course) on the roofs, and even sweeter<br />
little turtles pottering in their waters.<br />
It’s a lovely and intriguing swim, but<br />
hire a snorkel for a few pesos and you<br />
can have your mind thoroughly blown.<br />
Like an iceberg, it transpires that what<br />
you can see of the caverns above water is<br />
a mere fraction. Beneath the surface is<br />
an uncanny underworld, an otherworld,<br />
a netherworld, where the stalactites you<br />
saw drooping from the roof are now<br />
stalagmites rising from the floor, or<br />
columns holding up the roof (or is it the<br />
floor?). Through some trick of the eerily<br />
suffusing blue light, or the crystallineclear<br />
water, or the refractions of sound<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 37
‘In this corner of the Caribbean,<br />
life-changing experiences can<br />
be got cheap as well as easy’<br />
and sightlines, you feel you’ve travelled<br />
upside-down through the looking glass to<br />
the sort of inverted augmented alternate<br />
reality that Hollywood spends billions<br />
of FX dollars to create – but for just $5.<br />
In this corner of the Caribbean, lifechanging<br />
experiences can be got cheap<br />
as well as easy, it seems. Moving on to<br />
my next hotel, the more mid-market Tui<br />
Sensatori, I alternate my days between<br />
watching from my beach lounger as<br />
pelicans patrol the airspace in perfect<br />
three-bird formations, like pimped-up<br />
fighter planes; and taking the kind of<br />
coach tours that could give coach tours<br />
a good name. On one to Tulum, I find<br />
there are, in fact, three overlapping<br />
Tulums: the ruined Mayan city (less<br />
dramatic than Cobá, but sited on the<br />
most delectable little beach – sightseeing<br />
really couldn’t be any more effortless);<br />
the tourist strip (a boho hamlet of<br />
boutique hotels, beach clubs, juice bars<br />
and yoga joints; and, just offshore, the<br />
turtles’ Tulum. It’s an ancient underwater<br />
place of congregation for these beautiful<br />
beasts, and for the equally elegant manta<br />
rays that accompany them, but easily<br />
discoverable thanks to the unearthly<br />
noises that arise from it. (Could they<br />
form some strange sub-aquatic ‘song’?<br />
Nope, it’s the sound of a dozen excited<br />
turtle fans trying to say ‘So agelessly<br />
graceful!’ to each other, but it comes out<br />
through their snorkels as ‘Urrrggghhh!’)<br />
Meanwhile, just a few kilometres up<br />
the coast lurks the adventure for which<br />
I’ve been steeling myself all fortnight, the<br />
ultimate won’t-find-this-in-the-Windies<br />
escapade. Whale sharks are among<br />
the world’s largest predators, as big as<br />
buses but still distinctly, unnervingly<br />
shark-shaped (because they are, in fact,<br />
sharks). I’ve always desperately wanted<br />
to/not wanted to swim with them, and<br />
here, in the open ocean out beyond Isla<br />
Mujeres (that’s ‘Isle of the Dead’) you can.<br />
So in the Margarita-hued light of dawn,<br />
as the returning fishermen are enjoying<br />
a 6am brew on the docks, we take their<br />
places in the boats and head out. And an<br />
hour later we’ve found our leviathan; the<br />
snorkels and flippers go on, and we go in.<br />
Whoever started calling them ‘gentle<br />
giants’ had obviously never floated in the<br />
water in front of one (and certainly wasn’t<br />
a zooplankton, several million of which<br />
they devour every day). With that Jaws<br />
dorsal fin, that machete-sharp tail, that<br />
constant swaying, swaggering, menacing<br />
movement through the water, they’re<br />
unmistakably sharks. And it doesn’t<br />
matter how many times your guide tells<br />
you they can’t swallow anything bigger<br />
than their golf-ball-sized throats: when<br />
these 10-metre monsters swim towards<br />
you, their great mouths wide open, a<br />
word bubbles unbidden to the surface<br />
of your mind, and the word is Jonah.<br />
Then they swim, unfussed, right<br />
past you, and suddenly they’re the<br />
peaceful, placid, curious creatures<br />
you’ve heard about. Fear dissolves and<br />
all that’s left is wide-eyed, humbled<br />
wonder – and an afternoon on the beach<br />
with a brew and a burrito, gazing out<br />
across a couple of thousand kilometres<br />
of warm water towards Barbados,<br />
feeling rather pleased with yourself.<br />
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />
+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com<br />
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Syndication<br />
38 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
MEXICO<br />
This page:<br />
Beach Suite at<br />
Hotel Esencia<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 39
40 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
ISTANBUL<br />
GOLDEN<br />
In revisiting Istanbul, Nick Redman is reunited with his old flame<br />
TIMES<br />
Left: The Grand Bazaar<br />
This page: silhouette of<br />
the Blue Mosque<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 41
ISTANBUL<br />
Right: interior of the<br />
Blue Mosque<br />
‘Like a photograph emerging in a darkroom tray, the<br />
spiritual gloom developed into magnificence’<br />
Beyond the windows it looked<br />
like a light show put on just<br />
for us, as we waited to be<br />
seated at Mürver, a busy<br />
new rooftop restaurant in<br />
Istanbul. Illuminated white and sodiumorange<br />
across the dark mouth of the Golden<br />
Horn, the skyline monuments sparkled:<br />
Topkapı Palace, Hagia Sophia, and the Blue<br />
Mosque, its six minarets spearing the night<br />
sky. We got a corner table at the back. This<br />
place was dinner-reservation gold, be it<br />
your first night ever in the old Ottoman<br />
capital, or your first night back, as it was<br />
for my other half and me late last spring.<br />
The soft funk sounds, flash-fire open<br />
kitchen and de rigueur filament bulbs<br />
made Mürver feel sweepingly self-assured.<br />
Marinated sea-bass starters arrived, a<br />
tangy delight; then courgette fritters,<br />
kicky with chilli. The maîtresse d’, upon<br />
my asking about moving to a window<br />
table when the crowd thinned, said, ‘It<br />
won’t,’ with a satisfied smile, as if nothing<br />
had changed since the city’s big-money,<br />
pre-crunch, pre-coup millennial times.<br />
I had to smile, too. So it was still<br />
irresistanbul! Istanbul, the city I’ve<br />
adored for three decades or more, living<br />
and working there first, as a sybaritic<br />
twentysomething. I’d love to say nothing<br />
had changed, but that would be to ignore<br />
the endless posters of President Erdogăn we<br />
saw lining the freeway from the airport, as<br />
he geared up for another power-enhancing<br />
election. For Turks, a lot has changed.<br />
And for tourists? Here again after<br />
more than two years, we needn’t have<br />
worried: the same effusive welcome that<br />
is practically the Turks’ moral duty; the<br />
same great-value food; the same kamikaze<br />
taxi drivers, sadly, too, with their allergy to<br />
safety belts. We were glad we had chosen<br />
to stay in Sultanahmet, where Byzantium<br />
and Constantinople rose and fell, and<br />
where Christianity yielded to Islam, 600<br />
or so years ago. I found reassurance in its<br />
historic continuity: it looked as stunning<br />
as it always had, just untroubled now by<br />
tourists and touts. At dusk, the two of us<br />
strolled the sleepy streets, past leafy trees<br />
and gaily painted clapboard facades, more<br />
Tyrolean than Turkish. It was as if we’d hit<br />
on an undiscovered Euro weekend hotspot.<br />
The Four Seasons Hotel Sultanahmet<br />
was a tranquil essay in polished-wood<br />
floors, geometric kilims and corridors of<br />
Ottoman tiles, patterned with tulip petals<br />
and circular bursts of colour, like firework<br />
finales. The lobby had the perfume of<br />
lilies, a safe embrace. From our balcony<br />
I looked down at the garden, where<br />
jasmine plaited itself in thick columns up<br />
the turmeric-coloured enfolding walls,<br />
looking like cypress in the low light.<br />
Inhaling the iron smell of geraniums, I<br />
was back, oddly, in a flash: to June 2001,<br />
a heady evening here with friends, the<br />
summer before the Twin Towers fell.<br />
The world has mended and come apart<br />
since. It always will. In Istanbul, tourists<br />
were trickling back, said a hotel waiter,<br />
pouring drinks by an oil lamp’s flicker.<br />
‘This is an old city,’ he told us, as we<br />
devoured yoghurt-smothered Iskender<br />
kebab on puffy flatbread, zingy on the<br />
tongue with tomato sauce and hot chilli<br />
flakes. ‘Over thousands of years it has<br />
had so many punches. We have been<br />
sad, but people are returning again.’<br />
Istanbul felt no scarier than Paris, I<br />
thought, as we stepped out to mingle with<br />
those people next day. In the balmy air<br />
we wandered among horse chestnuts in<br />
bloom before the Blue Mosque, fountains<br />
playing, the muezzin’s call wailing to its<br />
crescendo. Loudly chattering Turkish<br />
schoolkids milled about smoke-laced<br />
carts selling blackened corn-on-the-cob.<br />
The queue was reassuringly healthy<br />
for the Hagia Sophia, its buttresses and<br />
ballooning domes squeezing out the sky.<br />
It seemed more magnificent than I’d ever<br />
known it, almost not of this planet, as if it<br />
had crash-landed from outer space millions<br />
of years ago and, over the ages, grown rusty<br />
and dusty, as civilisations rose around it.<br />
Such was the awe it was built to instil: first<br />
as a church in the 6th century, and again,<br />
after almost a millennium, when saved<br />
from failing Byzantine dilapidation in 1453<br />
by the conquering Ottomans, who restored<br />
it as a mosque. Inside, like a photograph<br />
emerging in a darkroom tray, the spiritual<br />
gloom developed into magnificence,<br />
daylight angling in with stage-beam<br />
precision from windows on high.<br />
We performed the ‘Say, “cheese”’<br />
honours for three Romanians in the<br />
grounds of Topkapı Palace, which rang<br />
with the chip-chip of masons repairing<br />
the low stone walls. The inscrutable<br />
residence for generations of sultans was<br />
a paradise garden of blood-red rose beds<br />
and carpets of pansies, monastic cedars<br />
throwing shadows across the lawns. It<br />
filled the senses like distilled nostalgia.<br />
Chambers shone with centuries<br />
of splendour, from mother-of-pearl<br />
grandfather clocks (one a gift from Queen<br />
Victoria to Abdul Hamid II) to a 300-yearold<br />
ceremonial suit of armour, dripping<br />
with chains like something from Michael<br />
Jackson’s tour wardrobe circa 1993. But on<br />
this cloudless day, Topkapı was for outside<br />
indulgence. As waiters at Konyalı restaurant<br />
42 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 43
44 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong><br />
This page, clockwise<br />
from top left: Turkish<br />
cheese pide; ample<br />
spices on sale in the<br />
city's Spice Bazaar;<br />
a traditional Turkish<br />
kebab; boza being<br />
poured into a glass
ISTANBUL<br />
‘Ooh, that Bosphorus view, and the blue Golden<br />
Horn flowing to meet it, scored with the white<br />
trails of ferries moving at the speed of swans’<br />
Credit: Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing<br />
removed the cloches on our kebab lunch<br />
plates, we lazed sultan-style on the terrace,<br />
catching rays, letting our senses lead us.<br />
Ooh, that Bosphorus view, and the blue<br />
Golden Horn flowing to meet it, scored<br />
with the white trails of ferries moving<br />
at the speed of swans. Way north, in the<br />
direction of the Black Sea, traffic caught<br />
sunlight, tiny silver beads traversing<br />
the Bosphorus Bridge, the unlikely front<br />
line of the failed 2016 coup. Behind it<br />
all rose the LA-style skyline of new-rich<br />
Istanbul – steely and blue-glassy, aspiring<br />
optimistically to heydays ahead.<br />
We took a night taxi, seeking the<br />
delectations of the modern city in Bomonti,<br />
inland from the Bosphorus shores. The<br />
city unspooled: a futuristic galaxy. Brutal<br />
apartment blocks filled canyons, glittering<br />
as they rolled off into the hills. We sped<br />
above it all, across high flyovers like<br />
fat spaghetti tangles, spotted with red<br />
taillights, and could only gawp admiringly<br />
at Istanbul’s sheer indefatigable grandeur.<br />
‘You made it,’ called Hatice, looming to<br />
greet us as we stepped into Kilimanjaro.<br />
She’d already texted a snap of herself<br />
with her Italian beau, taken at the table<br />
moments before – possibly in case we<br />
didn’t recognise our friend, two years<br />
after she’d left London to resettle here.<br />
The pair had invited us so as to big-up<br />
Bomonti, their home turf, a kilometre or<br />
so north of Taksim Square. It was named<br />
after two Swiss brothers who brewed hops<br />
here around the dawn of the 20th century,<br />
when Istanbul was Constantinople. Their<br />
factory, once closed and broken-windowed,<br />
has been resurrected for the unfailingly<br />
effervescent millennials of Istanbul, and<br />
Kilimanjaro is one of several hedonistic<br />
joints filling its bare-brick warehouse<br />
spaces and sprawling courtyards.<br />
With lots of straw-sucking, couplesyflirting<br />
going on, Kilimanjaro could have<br />
been in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District<br />
or Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin. Its centrepiece<br />
was a huge ‘aviary’ basket structure that<br />
followed the looping Grand-Prix curves of<br />
the bar below, full of spotlit bottles, perched<br />
like songbirds among dangling potted<br />
plants. Such a surprise stunner in a reborn<br />
corner! All the while, ’70s funk of the James<br />
Brown school came courtesy of a speccily<br />
serious DJ, as plates of crispy-skin chicken<br />
thighs circulated with waiters’ pirouettes,<br />
threatening drinkers’ Armani garb.<br />
We talked until late, about this and that;<br />
about how, if ever a city deserves good<br />
times, it is Istanbul, with inclusivity in its<br />
marrow. I recalled the borscht of snowy<br />
nights, in 1987, at Rejans, a nocturnal nook<br />
in a dodgy Beyoğlu backstreet originally<br />
opened by anti-Bolshevik exiles, musicians<br />
sawing away in its minstrel’s gallery, late.<br />
I lamented its long-ago folding.<br />
'It’s been relaunched', said Hatice.<br />
'Next time you come, we’ll go.'<br />
Next morning dawned more dispiritingly,<br />
cacophonous with irascible gulls, and<br />
hangover-grey due to a grim downpour<br />
off the foggy Bosphorus. A comfort-food<br />
kind of day. Benoit was waiting, as he’d<br />
promised, with brollies outside the Spice<br />
Bazaar, beyond the moored ferries of<br />
Eminönü, gateway to Old Istanbul. The<br />
Belgian expat lays on culinary walks to<br />
help visitors discover the part of the city I’d<br />
overlooked in the past, always questing after<br />
the new. This area was a commercial whirl<br />
in late Roman imperial times – and with<br />
Benoit, we uncovered a traditional Istanbul<br />
as vibrant as I’d recalled it years ago.<br />
We breakfasted first, on seeded simit<br />
bread rings, with the rain coursing about<br />
the drainpipes of an atmospheric han — a<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 45
This page: Opposite: the view from Sail boats Four<br />
Seasons Hotel docked Sultanahmet in Sausalito(in<br />
the foreground) This page: The coastal<br />
route linking San Francisco<br />
to Big Sur<br />
46 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
ISTANBUL<br />
storeyed, arcaded Ottoman storage depot,<br />
of which few remain. It was a workers’ cafe,<br />
family-run for generations, by emigrants<br />
from Erzincan, a town way east, near the<br />
border with Armenia. A daub of molasses<br />
tingled the tastebuds, black, sticky and<br />
prune-like, brought from the Black Sea,<br />
where it is a centuries-old method of<br />
preserving apples in winter. Coffee sacks<br />
piled in a nearby alley told of wider, older<br />
trade links, stamped with destinations<br />
from ‘Yemen’ to ‘Etiyopya’, ‘Sumatra’ to<br />
‘Hindistan’. Moving deeper, we brushed<br />
past spice dens dustily pungent with<br />
oregano and coriander, wild orchid roots<br />
dangling like sacrificial skeins of teeth.<br />
We ate lamb’s neck soup in a corner<br />
place, scrunched on low stools like picnic<br />
gnomes, then cheesy pizza-style pide<br />
at Mavi Haliç Pidecisi, where the cookproprietor<br />
let us dispatch our own off<br />
a large wooden paddle into the oven’s<br />
roar. We had lamb kebabs still sizzling<br />
from their bed of red charcoal at Osmanlı<br />
Kebapçısı, a classic concern as queued-for<br />
as a trendy New York food truck. At Altan<br />
Sekerleme sweet shop (founded 1865)<br />
we sucked sugared almonds in Smartie<br />
colours, offered freely for the tasting from<br />
stoppered jars. It was very Turkish: these<br />
sensory rituals, the sweetness of strangers.<br />
Another curiosity was Sevda Gazozcusu,<br />
its walls lined with shelves of retro<br />
Turkish fizzy drinks: a collector’s new<br />
trend, would you believe, said Benoit.<br />
Darkness was descending over the<br />
city. We ended up sipping boza, Turkey’s<br />
“In traditional the rainy-day warmer, we drove<br />
made of<br />
fermented millet, sugary and creamy<br />
past<br />
– slightly<br />
vast<br />
custardy.<br />
stretches<br />
At this elegant<br />
of<br />
establishment, seascape. Vefa Bozacısı, At night,<br />
served by<br />
white-clad waiters, we could have been<br />
we<br />
in Florence<br />
sat five<br />
or Madrid<br />
storeys<br />
amid the stained<br />
up<br />
mirrors among and worn floor thousandyear-old<br />
tiles. Spooning it<br />
trees”<br />
up, I fell through the time tunnel, through<br />
decades, to my first winter, January<br />
1986, when I would order it on ferries<br />
crossing the bitter, sleety Bosphorus<br />
after work. I got a familiar warm feeling<br />
inside: Istanbul, and the pleasurable<br />
glow of going back to find a city as sweet<br />
and seductive as ever I’d known it.<br />
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />
+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 47
48 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
INNSBRUCK<br />
You don’t have to slope off into the wild to get<br />
your downhill fix. With Hapsburg heritage, futuristic<br />
architecture and mountains all around, Innsbruck is<br />
an atmospheric Austrian city break and ski holiday in<br />
one, says Sean Newsom<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 49
Opening pages, from left:<br />
heading downhill in the<br />
mountains; the city centre<br />
of Innsbruck, as seen from<br />
the Town Hall's roof terrace<br />
These pages:<br />
Hungerburgbahn railway<br />
station<br />
So there I was, walking the<br />
streets of Innsbruck in my<br />
ski boots, feeling ridiculous.<br />
Everyone else was dressed<br />
for shopping, or for morning<br />
lectures at the city’s university. I was in<br />
lemon-yellow boots, silver helmet and<br />
bilious-green jacket, shouldering a bright<br />
red pair of skis. Normally, when I’m heading<br />
for the slopes, that’s perfectly acceptable.<br />
But on this particular Austrian morning I<br />
was a lump of hard, shiny plastic bobbing<br />
in a sober sea of overcoats. It felt as if I’d<br />
just fallen out of a giant box of Lego.<br />
Then I arrived at Zaha Hadid’s<br />
Hungerburgbahn railway station, and<br />
everything changed. It’s slap-bang in<br />
the middle of town, only 250m from the<br />
Rococo splendour of the Hofburg palace,<br />
the Hapsburg dynasty’s home-fromhome<br />
whenever they visited Innsbruck.<br />
But in just 30 minutes its sleek, chic<br />
funicular railway, followed by a couple of<br />
cable cars, had whisked me to an altitude<br />
of 2,256m. When I stepped out of the top<br />
station, it was into a raw white wilderness.<br />
On my left was a knuckle of rock,<br />
punching its way to the summit of the<br />
Hafelekarspitze at 2,334m. On my right...<br />
well, I couldn’t see what was on my right,<br />
because a tearing wind had whipped the<br />
snow into a thick cloud. Thank heavens<br />
I’d booked a guide, Sebastian, because<br />
the only way I was going to find the piste<br />
was if I followed him footstep by footstep.<br />
Provided, of course, the wind would let me.<br />
There was one gust I’ll never forget.<br />
It seemed to be testing me, like a finger<br />
waggling a loose tooth, checking if it<br />
was ready to be torn free. My whole body<br />
shuddered in its grip. My mind, too. Just<br />
down there, half an hour ago, I’d been<br />
standing outside Manna Delikatessencafe<br />
on the Maria-Theresien-Strasse, wondering<br />
if there was time for a slice of Apfelstrudel<br />
mit Vanillesauce before the ride up the<br />
mountain. Now I was hunkered down in a<br />
snowdrift, trying not to be blown off an Alp.<br />
Of course, any day of skiing mixes the<br />
wild and the refined, as you flit between<br />
the comfort of your hotel or chalet and<br />
sub-zero mountain slopes. But nowhere<br />
is the contrast sharper than in Innsbruck.<br />
This is a city, not a ski resort, and it isn’t<br />
near the Alps, it’s in the middle of them –<br />
crammed onto the last sizeable patch of flat<br />
ground before the road to Italy heaves itself<br />
over the Brenner Pass. Look down almost<br />
any street, and see a proud procession of<br />
exquisite Baroque, Renaissance or Gothic<br />
buildings – with the view finishing in a<br />
wall of snow and rock. It’s a place where the<br />
most civilised of human endeavours and<br />
the most rugged of nature’s wildernesses<br />
are constantly jostling for precedence.<br />
That means that, unlike a typical ski<br />
trip, where time spent away from the snow<br />
seems ‘wasted’, here it feels as if you’re<br />
getting a terrific city break thrown in for<br />
free. On the way to rent some boots and<br />
skis, my walk took me underneath an 18thcentury<br />
triumphal arch that left my jaw well<br />
and truly dropped – in a way that nothing<br />
in, say, Meŕibel ever had. The arch is a<br />
sober monument, given it commemorates<br />
a wedding, not a war: between the future<br />
Austrian emperor, Leopold, and Maria<br />
Luisa of Spain, in 1764. But served up with<br />
a backdrop of Alps, it’s both incongruous<br />
and magnificent – like Innsbruck itself.<br />
On another break from the slopes<br />
the next day, I ran my hands over the<br />
cool orange marble of the columns at<br />
the Hofkirche, a church whose modest<br />
exterior hides an extraordinarily exuberant<br />
mausoleum, designed in the early 16th<br />
50 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
INNSBRUCK<br />
‘Zaha Hadid’s Hungerburgbahn railway station is slapbang<br />
in the middle of town, only 250m from the Rococo<br />
splendour of the Hofburg palace’<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 51
INNSBRUCK<br />
‘It’s so quaintly perfect, it feels like you’ve<br />
wandered onto a postcard’<br />
century as the final resting place of the<br />
Emperor Maximilian I. Then, at the<br />
Ferdinandeum – Innsbruck’s unmissable<br />
museum of history and art – I rediscovered<br />
the work of local hero Albin Egger-<br />
Lienz. The most underrated of Austrian<br />
artists, his anguished paintings explore<br />
the hard, plain lives of mountain folk,<br />
in an earthy palette of ochres. Hanging<br />
alongside work by Egon Schiele and Oskar<br />
Kokoschka, they are an eye-popping<br />
introduction to early-20th-century angst.<br />
There was even time for Kaffee und<br />
Kuchen, courtesy of Café Sacher. Here,<br />
in a branch of the famous Viennese<br />
coffee shop, they celebrate the afternoon<br />
ritual of coffee and cake with a slice of<br />
Sachertorte, a sandwich of chocolate<br />
sponge and apricot jam, encased in<br />
thick, shiny chocolate icing. The first<br />
time I tried it, years ago in the Austrian<br />
capital, it seemed much more dry and<br />
formal – like the army officers who used<br />
to eat it, I imagined. But that was before I<br />
learned to smother it in whipped cream.<br />
Admittedly, Innsbruck is no match for<br />
Vienna when it comes to Austrian culture.<br />
But that’s not the point. There are no<br />
mountains in Vienna. And it’s the mix of<br />
the two that creates one of winter’s most<br />
compelling short breaks. Stay in one of the<br />
city-centre hotels, less than 15 minutes’<br />
drive from the airport, and you’ll have<br />
plugged yourself into the same network of<br />
connections the locals use. Like tentacles,<br />
the lifts, roads and railway lines reach up<br />
into every mountain, and together they<br />
serve up every snowy pastime imaginable.<br />
So, for example, you could spend a<br />
morning wading through the wedding-cake<br />
interiors of the Hofburg palace – then ride<br />
bus line J up to the village of Igls. As well as<br />
a small ski area, it’s home to Innsbruck’s<br />
Olympic bobsleigh track, and if you’re<br />
feeling reckless you can hitch a ride on one<br />
of its four-man sleds (olympiaworld.at).<br />
Acceleration is instantaneous, the top speed<br />
115kph. It feels like you’ve been strapped to<br />
a bullet and fired out of the barrel of gun.<br />
Or you could catch a train from the<br />
Hauptbahnhof to Seefeld, and a rather<br />
more sedate version of the Alps. I went<br />
the next morning, hoping to soothe my<br />
still-frazzled nerves – and deliver you to<br />
an absurdly pretty village of wooden eaves<br />
and spa hotels, where cross-country skiing<br />
trails weave through the forest. Don’t<br />
commit to a whole day, though. Skiing<br />
on the flat is exhausting. Plan instead to<br />
spend the afternoon mucking about on<br />
the outdoor curling rinks, where they<br />
play an easy, uncomplicated version of<br />
the Olympic sport, beneath a tiny-onion<br />
domed church. It’s so quaintly perfect, it<br />
feels like you’ve wandered onto a postcard.<br />
Meanwhile, the skiers in your group will<br />
be arguing about which of Innsbruck’s nine<br />
local ski areas to try. For most, the essential<br />
stop is the Stubai Glacier, which is where<br />
I took my hire car on the third day. It’s a<br />
good hour from the city centre – but on a<br />
sunny day it’s worth every wiggle of road,<br />
because there are few better pockets of easy,<br />
intermediate-friendly skiing in the Alps. It’s<br />
not just the fact that the pistes are so wide,<br />
steady and gentle that makes it a blast; it’s<br />
the quality of the snow. Up there, the lift<br />
system tops out at an eye-watering 3,170m,<br />
and the season runs from mid-September<br />
until June. It’s the perfect place to warm up<br />
your ski legs and rebuild your confidence.<br />
By the end of the day, I was skiing so fast<br />
I thought my hair would catch fire.<br />
But that was nothing compared with my<br />
52 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
INNSBRUCK<br />
This page: The view from the<br />
historic area of Candelaria<br />
Opposite: Contemporary art<br />
in Iglesia de Santa Clara<br />
This page, clockwise<br />
from top left: a<br />
tempting slice of<br />
Sachertorte; festive<br />
time in Innsbruck<br />
city centre; lording<br />
over Nordkette, the<br />
mountain at the heart<br />
of Innsbruck;<br />
Hofburg palace<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 53
This page:<br />
cable cars high over<br />
Stubai Glacier<br />
54 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
INNSBRUCK<br />
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing<br />
experience beneath the Hafelekarspitze<br />
the next morning. That walk along<br />
the ridge I mentioned earlier was just<br />
the overture. Sebastian, my guide and<br />
guardian angel, somehow got me through<br />
it, and together we wobbled on for five<br />
minutes until the path dropped down to<br />
a gap between the crags – and I caught<br />
my first sight of the view south.<br />
Holy Mother of Mountain Scenery: I’d<br />
never seen anything like it. It wasn’t so<br />
much the distance that made it special.<br />
It was the sense of depth. Sealing the<br />
horizon, 30km away, was the central<br />
spine of the Alps – the one that forms<br />
the border with Italy and snakes all the<br />
way to Mont Blanc. Immediately beneath<br />
my boots, plunging down toward the<br />
city limits, was the steepest slope I’ve<br />
ever attempted – and there, in a deep<br />
gutter of green, spread the streets of<br />
Innsbruck, glinting in the sunshine.<br />
‘Is this the only way down?’ I asked.<br />
I’d heard that this area, the Nordkette,<br />
was steep, but after my ego-boosting<br />
day on the Stubai Glacier, I thought I<br />
needed a challenge. Now I wasn’t so<br />
sure. What if I fell? By the look of it, I<br />
wouldn’t stop rolling until I was back<br />
in the Maria-Theresien-Strasse, lying<br />
outside Manna Delikatessencafe.<br />
‘There is another route,’ said<br />
Sebastian. ‘But it’s steeper.’<br />
Then I realised something. I wasn’t<br />
scared anymore. Those powerful gusts<br />
of wind had been shocking at first, but a<br />
couple of days of art galleries and Gothic<br />
architecture had sharpened my appetite<br />
for adrenaline. And knowing what<br />
(largely edible) delights were awaiting<br />
me back down in town, I steeled myself.<br />
‘Ready?’ asked Sebastian, after I’d clicked<br />
into my skis. I nodded, and we were off.<br />
An hour later, I was back on the streets<br />
of Innsbruck once again a lone skier in<br />
a sea of busy city folk. But this time, I<br />
didn’t feel ridiculous, I felt victorious.<br />
There was snow on my boots and a smile<br />
as wide as the Nordkette plastered across<br />
my face. I could have hugged every one<br />
of them. Instead, I went to Manna’s<br />
and ordered some apple strudel.<br />
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call<br />
+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 55
worldtravellermagazine.com<br />
Your passport to the Middle East's first fully<br />
bookable travel inspiration website<br />
Extend your journey with <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> magazine<br />
by heading online to read more inspirational and<br />
exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute<br />
hotel and holiday features<br />
Dream Read Click Book
CHECK IN Globetrotter<br />
Weekends<br />
Staycations and short-haul escapes<br />
NATURAL ATTRACTION<br />
Lush forest, sandy beaches and natural mangroves – it’s<br />
Ajman but not as you know it. Indeed, this tiny emirate is a<br />
draw card for nature fans, with the coastal destination of Al<br />
Zorah home to a rich ecosystem. Its protected wetlands are<br />
dominated by mangroves – ideal for kayaking – that support<br />
an impressive variety of species of birds and fish, including<br />
the native pink flamingo. The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah<br />
(pictured) is a luxurious base from which to explore. Simply<br />
ask the concierge about the ways to take a closer look at the<br />
area’s verdant bounty.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 57
MINI BREAK<br />
Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Yamm Villa Resort<br />
YOUR GUIDE TO: ABU DHABI<br />
As the UAE celebrates its 47th National Day, we shine a light on the capital’s enduring appeal<br />
Anchored by its island city, Abu Dhabi is<br />
a curious blend of contrasts that draws<br />
visitors from around the globe. From<br />
its historic heartland out to the golden dunes<br />
of the Empty Quarter, culture and heritage<br />
reign supreme, with iconic landmarks such as<br />
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and Louvre Abu<br />
Dhabi on the must-see list for many. However,<br />
it’s also a place for adventure seekers to get<br />
their thrills and spills, with exciting theme<br />
parks and plenty of outdoor adventures to<br />
enjoy. Even if you've visited many times before,<br />
there's a wave of newness to entice you back,<br />
from the newly-renovated Qasr Al Hosn to the<br />
billion dollar Warner Bros. <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi.<br />
Let our top picks inspire you to rediscover all<br />
the best bits…<br />
Jumeirah at Saadiyat<br />
Island Resort<br />
CONTRIBUTOR CLAIRE MALCOLM<br />
58 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
ABU DHABI<br />
GET OUTDOORS<br />
Yas Links<br />
Golfing greats<br />
The emirate is home to some great greens (and<br />
browns). For some of the best scenery, however, we<br />
suggest you play a round at Yas Links, the city’s only<br />
links course that benefits from a stunning coastal<br />
setting. Just don't let the gorgeous views distract you<br />
from your game. yaslinks.com<br />
Desert ranger<br />
A desert safari is a must, and Arabian Adventures<br />
is the pick of a number of locally-based companies<br />
to offer this and other fun desert experiences. It's<br />
the rare visitor who turns down an opportunity to<br />
embark on their Desert Rose Dinner Safari, which<br />
will take you on a thrilling four-wheel drive across<br />
the dunes to a traditional Bedouin style camp where<br />
a delicious dinner awaits. Plus, you'll have the chance<br />
to ride a camel and test your sandboarding skills.<br />
arabian-adventures.com<br />
#<br />
travelgoals<br />
Culture, in<br />
musical form,<br />
is the modus<br />
operandi of the<br />
hugely popular<br />
annual Abu Dhabi<br />
Classics concert<br />
series that runs<br />
from September<br />
to April. Featuring<br />
world-class artists<br />
and orchestras,<br />
concerts take<br />
place in the<br />
opulent setting<br />
of the Emirates<br />
Palace auditorium,<br />
on Saadiyat<br />
Island, and at Bin<br />
Hamoodah Fort in<br />
Al Ain<br />
CULTURE CLUB<br />
A mosque stop<br />
When a whistle-stop visit is the reality, Sheikh Zayed<br />
Grand Mosque is a must-see. A place of worship for<br />
up to 40,000, the exquisite structure features 82<br />
domes and 1,000 pure white columns adorned with<br />
floral designs inlaid with semi-precious stones. A<br />
guided tour is imperative for insightful snippets<br />
about its architecture and design features, including<br />
the world’s largest handmade carpet. szgmc.gov.ae<br />
History lesson<br />
Swap large-scale sights for an altogether quainter<br />
experience at the open-air Abu Dhabi Heritage<br />
Village. Built to resemble a desert oasis community,<br />
take a gentle wander around the traditional barasti<br />
(dried palm frond) huts housing various exhibits,<br />
see local artisans in action and get a potted history<br />
of the emirate.<br />
Storytime at the fort<br />
The former home of the emirate’s ruling family, and<br />
originally a coral stone watchtower marking the<br />
city’s first settlement, Al Hosn recently underwent a<br />
multi-million-dollar renovation to transform it into<br />
a cultural destination comprising the historic Qasr<br />
Al Hosn Fort, the Cultural Foundation, the National<br />
Consultative Council building, and the House of<br />
Artisans. The museum traces the city’s development<br />
from a fishing and pearling settlement to the<br />
modern metropolis it is today. alhosn.ae<br />
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque<br />
Animal magic<br />
On, below and above the smooth surface of the desert<br />
sands lies a teeming mass of wildlife. The impressive<br />
Al Ain Zoo, which celebrated its 50 th anniversary in<br />
<strong>2018</strong>, is all about education and conservation. Visit its<br />
sprawling facility and you’ll easily spend a good few<br />
hours observing more than 4,000 animals. Its highly<br />
regarded breeding programme includes a growing<br />
Arabian sand cat community and the endangered<br />
dama gazelle. alainzoo.ae<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 59
MINI BREAK<br />
Warner Bros. <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi<br />
SAY YAS TO FUN<br />
Park life<br />
Entertainment hub Yas Island is the place to go for<br />
some fast fun, with a cluster of theme parks and<br />
hi-octane attractions for thrill seekers of all ages.<br />
New on the scene is Warner Bros. <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi,<br />
which boasts six immersive lands including<br />
DC’s Metropolis and Gotham City, as well as<br />
Cartoon Junction, Bedrock, Dynamite Gulch<br />
and Warner Bros. Plaza. There's a 29-strong<br />
roster of rides, plus interactive familyfriendly<br />
attractions and live entertainment<br />
populated by fan-favourite characters such<br />
as Scooby-Doo, Wonder Woman and Tom<br />
and Jerry. wbworldabudhabi.com<br />
Pedal to the metal<br />
This entertainment nirvana is also home to the<br />
5.55-kilometre Hermann Tilke-designed Yas Marina<br />
Circuit, which hosts the annual Formula 1 Etihad<br />
Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix in November. But don’t<br />
fret that you’ve just missed the main event, as the<br />
circuit hosts a full programme of year-round on-track<br />
activities, headlined by in-demand driving experiences<br />
behind the wheel of an Aston Martin GT4 or singleseater<br />
Formula 3000. yasmarinacircuit.com<br />
#<br />
travelgoals<br />
For boho chic<br />
vibes and Far<br />
Eastern cuisine,<br />
head to the newlyopened<br />
Buddha-<br />
Bar Beach at The<br />
St. Regis Saadiyat<br />
Island Resort, Abu<br />
Dhabi. Direct from<br />
Paris, this day-tonight<br />
destination<br />
is the ‘in’ place to<br />
unwind and when<br />
it comes to the<br />
food, the ceviche<br />
is a clear winner<br />
Pack your bucket and<br />
spade and head to the<br />
city’s newest beachfront<br />
community A’l Bahar,<br />
situated along the corniche,<br />
which is packed with shops,<br />
entertainment, and reasons<br />
to get active – the inflatable<br />
AquaFun waterpark is our<br />
top pick for families<br />
Louvre Abu Dhabi<br />
ART ICONS<br />
Inside the Louvre<br />
Named in Time magazine’s list of the greatest places<br />
of <strong>2018</strong>, Louvre Abu Dhabi is a cultural showstopper.<br />
Having recently celebrated its one-year anniversary<br />
this art icon, located within the Saadiyat Island<br />
Cultural District, recently unveiled 11 new acquisitions<br />
in its permanent galleries and is hosting an exhibition<br />
of archaeological masterpieces and important<br />
Islamic art from Saudi Arabia and the UAE until 16<br />
February 2019. Its exceptional collection of artworks,<br />
artefacts and on-loan pieces is all wrapped up inside<br />
an architectural work of art – Jean Nouvel’s futuristic<br />
floating silver dome. louvreabudhabi.ae<br />
Creative flair<br />
Manarat Al Saadiyat, a multi-gallery and performance<br />
space that hosts the annual Abu Dhabi Art show, is<br />
another gem the Saadiyat Island Cultural District.<br />
Check out the new Photography Studio, which hosts<br />
community-driven photography exhibitions alongside<br />
a year-round calendar of activities and programmes.<br />
There’s also a Drop In Studio for people of all ages to<br />
create their own artworks, with sessions lasting<br />
for up to two hours. manaratalsaadiyat.ae<br />
Solo artist<br />
A growing cadre of independent galleries<br />
are also expanding the scene, including<br />
new kid on the block Warehouse 421, tucked<br />
away in the port area, which is an advocate<br />
for emerging talent within the local creative<br />
community. It hosts a cool line-up of exhibitions,<br />
including Hundred Best Arabic Posters 100/100, which<br />
is running until 20 January 2019. warehouse421.ae<br />
Life is a roller coaster<br />
Speed demons of all ages are also bound to have<br />
Ferrari <strong>World</strong> Abu Dhabi on their bucket list. Home to<br />
the world’s fastest rollercoaster – the Formula Rossa,<br />
which hits 240km/h in under five seconds – as well<br />
as the 1.5-kilometre-long Flying Aces rollercoaster,<br />
featuring the world’s largest inverted loop and steepest<br />
incline. But it also has a host of (ahem) gentler rides to<br />
try. ferrariworldabudhabi.com<br />
60 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
ABU DHABI<br />
SET TO SHOP<br />
Gallery goals<br />
Abu Dhabi’s plush malls are a shopper’s delight. If<br />
designer labels are your kryptonite then The Galleria,<br />
Al Maryah Island, is sure to rob you of your selfcontrol.<br />
We say give in and go try on some of the<br />
wearable riches from the many luxury fashion, watch<br />
and jewellery brands housed here, including Van Cleef<br />
& Arpels, Richard Mille and Mulberry. thegalleria.ae<br />
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi<br />
Fashionable finds<br />
The concept boutique scene is also hotting up with a<br />
small but tempting collection of independent retailers<br />
selling quirky, cool and collectible items. Fashionled<br />
Minbart in the Al Raha Beach community stocks<br />
pieces from up-and-coming local, regional and<br />
international designers, while Bits & Pieces in the Al<br />
Mushrif district is a repository of unique colourful<br />
homeware, décor and kitchen trappings.<br />
To the souk<br />
The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri is a contemporary take on<br />
the Arabian bazaar, with a touch of European influence<br />
thrown in for good measure. The waterside setting<br />
includes abras to ferry you along the man-made canal,<br />
a plethora of water-facing dining options, plus shops<br />
and pop-up stalls selling everything from jewellery<br />
and accessories to perfumes. Follow your nose to<br />
Amouage to stock up on oud-based fragrances, pick up<br />
a cashmere pashmina or three at Toshkhana, or treat<br />
yourself to some handcrafted jewellery at Exquisite<br />
Antiques Gallery. soukqaryatalberi.com<br />
The Souk at Qaryat Al Beri<br />
#<br />
travelgoals<br />
If you’re keen<br />
to try authentic<br />
Emirati cuisine, we<br />
rate Al Fanar at<br />
The Ritz-Carlton<br />
Abu Dhabi Grand<br />
Canal’s Venetian<br />
Village. Bring your<br />
appetite and feast<br />
on dishes including<br />
fish biryani and<br />
a hearty chicken<br />
thereed (where a<br />
flavourful stew is<br />
ladelled on top of<br />
thin Arabic bread)<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi<br />
Located at the heart of the city, along the corniche, The<br />
St. Regis Abu Dhabi is famous for its Superior Sea View<br />
rooms. Take a load off at Nation Riviera Beach Club,<br />
which boasts its own private stretch of sand, and be<br />
sure to squeeze in some pampering at Remède Spa.<br />
Jumeirah at Etihad Towers<br />
Overlooking the Arabian Gulf and the city’s<br />
cosmopolitan corniche, the 69-storey Jumeirah at<br />
Etihad Towers has views to write home about. The<br />
suites here rank among the finest in the city: even<br />
their bathrooms afford widescreen views of Abu Dhabi.<br />
There are multiple dining outlets to enjoy, a pristine<br />
private beach and the award-winning Talise Spa.<br />
Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort<br />
Just a short stroll away from the sweeping protected<br />
beachfront, this contemporary resort is brimming<br />
with natural attractions, with mangroves, dolphins<br />
and turtles on the doorstep. Catch a sunrise yoga<br />
session, take a dip in one of three infinity swimming<br />
pools and observe Hawksbill turtles on the sand during<br />
the nesting season. Plus, it’s a stone’s throw from the<br />
emirate’s leading cultural attractions.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 61
WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI<br />
Roads of Arabia © Department of Culture<br />
& Tourism – Abu Dhabi<br />
Cross the<br />
cultural<br />
bridge<br />
Don’t miss this critically acclaimed<br />
exhibition at Louvre Abu Dhabi,<br />
which delves into the rich history<br />
of the Arabian Peninsula<br />
Art and culture fans have yet another<br />
reason to visit the UAE capital over<br />
the coming months, thanks to Louvre<br />
Abu Dhabi’s Roads of Arabia: Archaeological<br />
Treasures of Saudi Arabia exhibition, which<br />
explores the fascinating story of the Arabian<br />
Peninsula through archaeological and cultural<br />
artefacts from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia<br />
and the UAE.<br />
One of the most renowned Saudi exhibitions<br />
internationally, it was originally conceived<br />
through a cooperation between the Saudi<br />
Commission for Tourism and National<br />
Heritage and the Musée du Louvre in Paris,<br />
where it was first presented in 2010. Now<br />
back in the region following a 14-stop tour of<br />
Europe, the US and Asia and, the exhibition has<br />
been enriched by a selection of rare pieces from<br />
the emirates.<br />
It explores five chapters in the history of<br />
the Arabian Peninsula, from early prehistoric<br />
settlements to the social and economic<br />
developments between the 14th and 16th<br />
centuries that set the stage for the modernday<br />
region. Visitors can view important<br />
archaeological pieces from the UAE, including<br />
a pearl found in Umm Al Quwain dating from<br />
5500-5300 BCE (loaned by Umm Al Quwain<br />
Museum), which are displayed alongside<br />
significant artefacts from KSA, including a<br />
door of the Kaaba dating to 1355 (loaned by the<br />
National Museum in Riyadh), among many<br />
others. Bolster your knowledge through a<br />
series of film screenings curated by Emirati<br />
artist Hind Mezaina (taking place each<br />
Saturday from 5 to 26 January), as well as<br />
talks and poetry performances designed to<br />
provide a richer insight.<br />
The exhibition is taking place until<br />
16 February 2019. Entry is free upon<br />
purchasing a ticket to the museum.<br />
To find out more, call +971 600 56 55 66<br />
or visit louvreabudhabi.ae<br />
62 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
1 2<br />
TRAVEL NOTES<br />
My Great Escapes<br />
6<br />
Travel writer and photographer<br />
Michelle Karam, founder of Travel<br />
Junkie Diary, shares her best adventures<br />
traveljunkiediary.com,<br />
@traveljunkiediary<br />
3<br />
5<br />
1. Maldives moments. One of the most beautiful Maldivian<br />
island resorts I’ve visited is Joali on Muravandhoo Island in<br />
the Raa Atoll, 45 minutes by seaplane from Male. It embraces<br />
creativity, with a fantastic collection of art and sculptural<br />
pieces to discover. 2. Ocean views in Madeira. I spent a<br />
week in Madeira with my family exploring the mountains, the<br />
ocean, the cuisine and the wonderful history that the region<br />
has to offer. This picture was taken at Belmond Reid's Palace,<br />
which is perched atop a cliff and has a view to take your breath<br />
away. 3. Finding the magic in Finland. You can fall in love<br />
with a place because of how it makes you feel, and Finland is<br />
where I found nature in the most magical way: sleeping in an<br />
aurora cabin under the stars and waking up to the sound of<br />
snow falling onto the rooftop. 4. Desert dreams. The UAE<br />
desert comes alive at sunrise and is one of the most beautiful<br />
places to photograph. I strongly advise you wake up early<br />
to experience the majesty of the dunes. 5. Family time in<br />
Lisbon. Lisbon is one of my favourite European cities. I spent<br />
two weeks there with my family, staying at Avani Avenida<br />
Liberdade. My daughter and I were going to spend the day<br />
beside the pool but it started raining without warning. As we<br />
began to laugh, my husband took this picture. 6. Home to<br />
Lebanon. A misunderstood country filled with nature, lakes,<br />
beaches, history, mountains and great food, Lebanon will<br />
always be my home. Seeing the Faqra Roman ruins is a must,<br />
as learning about the area’s rich history and culture is all part<br />
of the journey.<br />
4<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 63
WORLD TRAVELLER X AL MAHA, A LUXURY COLLECTION DESERT RESORT & SPA, DUBAI<br />
STAYCATION<br />
Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, Dubai<br />
Adopt the Bedouin way of life at this luxury resort in Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve<br />
THE SUITES<br />
You can get a real feel for the local culture<br />
inside these suites, which pay homage to<br />
the desert surroundings and are styled<br />
with Arabian artefacts and antiques.<br />
Each one features an infinity style<br />
private pool that overlooks the golden<br />
dunes. Grab the binoculars from your<br />
room, head out onto the deck and wait<br />
for wildlife, such as gazelle and Arabian<br />
oryx, to wander into view.<br />
DINING & SPA<br />
Al Diwaan invites you dine alfresco on<br />
the veranda for a breathtaking view<br />
of the reserve. Sample indigenous<br />
delicacies before heading upstairs to<br />
Hajar Terrace Bar for drinks. Indulgence<br />
of the pampering kind calls at Timeless<br />
Spa, which specialises in Middle Eastern<br />
and South East Asian aromatherapy<br />
traditions. Still the mind with a session<br />
in the therapy bath.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
Archery, nature walks, desert drives,<br />
wildlife safaris, falconry, horse riding<br />
and camel trekking are just some of the<br />
thrilling ways to explore. Set off with a<br />
field guide who can offer an insight into<br />
the conservation projects in place as<br />
you search for telltale footprints. Sand<br />
gazelle, the Arabian red fox and Arabian<br />
oryx are among the four-legged friends<br />
who roam the area.<br />
To find out more, call +971 4 832 9900 or visit marriott.com<br />
64 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
EXCEPTIONAL, INDIGENOUS, EXPERIENCE.<br />
Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming<br />
wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure<br />
with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.<br />
HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION<br />
FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 971 4 832 9900<br />
OR VISIT THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/ALMAHA
WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA<br />
STAYCATION<br />
Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa<br />
Fabled charm meets top-tier luxury at this desert dream getaway<br />
THE ROOMS<br />
Encapsulating the heart and soul of<br />
Arabia, swing open the doors of your<br />
room or suite to reveal an enchanting<br />
desert backdrop. Go wild by booking the<br />
Terrace Room, which offers a panoramic<br />
view of the expansive Palm Grove and<br />
towards the golden dunes where wildlife<br />
such as gazelle, geckos, cornucopias and<br />
the endangered Arabian oryx wander free<br />
in their natural habitat.<br />
THE FOOD<br />
Foodies can embrace the holiday spirit<br />
thanks to the 10-day festive fiesta (from<br />
20-30 <strong>December</strong>) at four of the main<br />
restaurants. Highlights include the<br />
festive brunch at Al Forsan, with its huge<br />
buffet and fun kids' area; the festive tree<br />
lighting on 7 Dec, complete with carols<br />
and traditional bites; and the spectacular<br />
New Year's Gala Dinner at Al Hadheerah,<br />
complete with firework display.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
The weather is perfect at this time of<br />
year – ideal for ticking all those active<br />
pursuits off your wish list. Improve your<br />
stroke in the infinity pool, embark on a<br />
thrilling dune drive, or explore the local<br />
landscape on a fat bike. Horse and camel<br />
riding is also available – go at sunset for<br />
the best views. At the end of an actionpacked<br />
day, wind down in an outdoor<br />
cabana with a pampering spa treatment.<br />
To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com<br />
66 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
YOUR ULTIMATE DESERT ESCAPE.<br />
Nestled among the dunes, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is the world’s favourite<br />
choice for dream desert getaways.<br />
This oasis of tranquility combines rustic charm with top-tier hospitality and luxury<br />
to bring to life an authentic desert experience.<br />
Book directly with the hotel or through the hotel website<br />
and save on existing offers and special discounts<br />
BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA<br />
Dubai,United Arab Emirates<br />
T:+971 4 809 6194, bas.reservations@meydanhotels.com<br />
babalshams.com<br />
/babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel /babalshamshotel
WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MÉRIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT<br />
STAYCATION<br />
Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort<br />
Ramp up the fun factor on an all all-inclusive break at this family-friendly resort in Fujairah<br />
THE ROOMS<br />
Nestled between the ocean and the<br />
mountains, this popular beach resort<br />
is a draw card for fun seekers. Wake<br />
up to the sounds of waves lapping the<br />
shore and the marvellous sight of the Al<br />
Hajar mountain range, the highest in<br />
the Arabian Peninsula. The Penthouse<br />
Bedroom Suite has more than enough<br />
space for larger broods, accommodating<br />
up to nine people in style.<br />
THE FOOD<br />
Home to eight dining venues, your<br />
taste buds are in for an adventure, too.<br />
You can sink your teeth into delicious<br />
grills at the newly-refurbished Gonu as<br />
the fresh ocean breeze washes over you.<br />
Alternatively, head to Views Restaurant<br />
for a delicious east-meets-west fusion<br />
buffet and live music or, for a taste of the<br />
exotic, simply reserve your table at the<br />
elegant Indian restaurant Swaad.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
For some adrenaline-pumping fun, get<br />
warmed up for the resort’s own obstacle<br />
course, the Al Aqah Challenge. Featuring<br />
the first-of-its-kind rope course tower<br />
on the East Coast, you can take part in<br />
five activities under the watchful eye of<br />
the expert instructors. From zooming<br />
through the air on the zip lines to scaling<br />
the climbing wall, it’s sure to bring out<br />
your competitive side.<br />
To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com<br />
68 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI<br />
STAYCATION<br />
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai<br />
Celebrate the festive season at the world's tallest five-star hotel<br />
THE ROOMS<br />
Having transformed itself into a festive<br />
wonderland, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is<br />
a fitting place to spend the holidays, with<br />
ample space to welcome guests. Its 1,608<br />
guestrooms and suites have luxurious<br />
finishings – think marble bathrooms with<br />
oversized tubs – with views of the glittering<br />
skyline or Dubai Water Canal. Families can<br />
book a suite and spread out in two separate<br />
living and sleeping areas.<br />
THE FOOD<br />
There are 15 award-winning restaurants<br />
and bars at the property, each serving<br />
up a festive treat. Marvel at life-sized<br />
gingerbread house at the entrance of La<br />
Farine Café & Bakery, before having a cosy<br />
afternoon tea. Join the Festive Wanderlust<br />
brunch on 25 Dec, which promises a merry<br />
time with 11 live stations, or ring in 2019<br />
with a six-course menu at Prime68, as<br />
fireworks illuminate the night's sky.<br />
THE ACTIVITIES<br />
The hotel is close to many of Dubai's top<br />
attractions, but there are lots of perks<br />
that'll tempt you to linger at the property.<br />
Take a dip in the sparkling outdoor<br />
swimming pool or, for a spot of pampering,<br />
head to the opulent Saray Spa, which has 17<br />
treatment rooms and the UAE's only Dead<br />
Sea floatation pool. Try The Saray Golden<br />
Hammam, which includes a decadent skin<br />
massage using 24-karat gold.<br />
To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />
70 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
Festive Celebrations<br />
at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai.<br />
Elevate your festivities to new heights at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai,<br />
your ultimate dining destination. Make this festive season extra special<br />
for you and your loved ones with impeccable dishes, fun entertainment<br />
and memorable experiences.<br />
FESTIVE MARKET AND EXCITING MENUS<br />
MERRY FAMILY CELEBRATIONS<br />
AFTERNOON TEA IN A LIFE-SIZE GINGERBREAD HOUSE<br />
AWARD-WINNING TURKEY TAKEAWAY<br />
EPIC NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTIES<br />
Indulge in award-winning cuisine this Festive Season, one dish at a time.<br />
For more information, call +971 4 414 3000<br />
or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai<br />
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T + 971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com<br />
jwmarriottmarquisdubai | jwdubaimarquis | jwmarriottmarquisdubai | #jwmmfestive
NEW YEAR,<br />
NEW DEALS!<br />
Welcoming in a new year is the perfect<br />
time for a new experience. Book a<br />
trip to one of our top destinations<br />
like New York City, Edinburgh,<br />
Hong Kong or Sydney.<br />
Book at dnatatravel.com<br />
call 800 DNATA (36282) or<br />
speak to us in-store<br />
Download our app<br />
| Follow us on
INSPIRED BY<br />
Reader offers<br />
Great deals to get you packing<br />
THE HOLIDAYS ARE COMING<br />
Whether you're hoping to see some<br />
winter snow, or want to spend the<br />
festive break on a tropical island like<br />
Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort<br />
(page 75), we've got a deal for you…<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 73
THE<br />
FANTASTIC<br />
FOUR<br />
1<br />
2<br />
4<br />
3<br />
1<br />
GEORGIA<br />
WINTER SKI GETAWAY<br />
4 nights starting from<br />
USD480 per person<br />
Includes: A 2-night stay in Tbilisi<br />
and 2 nights in Gudauri ski resort;<br />
4-star accommodation with daily<br />
breakfast; return airport transfers<br />
including a transfer from Tbilisi<br />
to Gudauri ski resort; city tours of<br />
Tbilisi and Mtksheta (the old capital<br />
of Georgia); and a day tour to the<br />
Ananuri-Kazbegi mountains.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 March 2019.<br />
2<br />
FRANCE<br />
CLUB MED ALL-INCLUSIVE<br />
SKI HOLIDAY<br />
4 nights starting from<br />
USD1,085 per person<br />
Includes: 4 nights at the<br />
4-star Club Med Grand Massif<br />
Samoens Morillon in a club<br />
room; daily breakfast, lunch,<br />
dinner and drinks; ski passes<br />
and ski lessons; entertainment;<br />
complimentary access to kids'<br />
club for ages 4-17.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 March 2019.<br />
3<br />
ICELAND<br />
WINTER ADVENTURES<br />
6 nights starting from<br />
USD2,315 per person<br />
Includes: Small group tour<br />
in comfortable tourist class<br />
accommodation with daily<br />
breakfast; 2 lunches and 2<br />
dinners; exploration of Iceland's<br />
glaciers and waterfalls; excursion<br />
in search of the dazzling displays<br />
of the Northern Lights; natural<br />
hot springs bathing; Golden<br />
Circle sightseeing; Lava caving;<br />
exploration of Reykjavik; and<br />
transportation throughout.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 March 2019.<br />
4<br />
FINLAND<br />
ULTIMATE ARTIC ADVENTURE<br />
7 nights starting from<br />
USD3,765 per person<br />
Includes: 6 nights in first class hotels;<br />
1 night in Glass Igloo; daily breakfast<br />
and 4 lunches; daily activities<br />
including King Crab Safari; Reindeer<br />
Farm with sledge drive; Snowshoes<br />
safari; visit to Artic Snow Hotel and<br />
dinner; Husky Farm visit with sledge<br />
drive; Rovaniemi and Santa Claus<br />
Village; Sampo Icebreaker cruise and<br />
ice swimming; Kemi Snow Castle<br />
visit; return airport transfers and<br />
transportation throughout.<br />
Valid from: 6 January to<br />
24 March 2019.<br />
74 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS<br />
THAILAND<br />
ANANTARA PHUKET LAYAN<br />
RESORT & SPA<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD765 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Sala<br />
Pool Villa with breakfast daily<br />
and return airport transfers.<br />
Offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 January 2019.<br />
AROUND<br />
THE<br />
WORLD<br />
Universal Studios Singapore<br />
UNITED KINGDOM<br />
MAYKENBEL LUXURY<br />
SERVICED APARTMENTS,<br />
LONDON<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD482 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />
Studio Apartment at 130 Queen's<br />
Gate and return airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 March 2019.<br />
Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Spa<br />
GERMANY<br />
FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER<br />
JAHRESZEITEN, HAMBURG<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD810 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe<br />
Room Courtyard with breakfast<br />
daily and return airport transfers.<br />
Offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 March 2019.<br />
Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris<br />
Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort<br />
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg<br />
FRANCE<br />
LE ROYAL MONCEAU,<br />
RAFFLES PARIS<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD1,110 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />
Studio Room with breakfast daily<br />
and return airport transfers.<br />
Offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
CZECH REPUBLIC<br />
INTERCONTINENTAL<br />
PRAGUE HOTEL<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD260 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />
Classic Room with breakfast daily<br />
and return airport transfers.<br />
Offer: 15% discount on room<br />
rate and complimentary<br />
upgrade to Deluxe Room.<br />
Valid from: Now until 31 March 2019.<br />
MALDIVES<br />
OUTRIGGER KONOTTA<br />
MALDIVES RESORT<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD1466 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a<br />
Beach Villa with private pool,<br />
breakfast and dinner daily and<br />
return seaplane transfers.<br />
Offer: 35% discount on room<br />
rate, complimentary upgrade to<br />
half board and 20% discount on<br />
seaplane transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
28 April 2019.<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
FAMILY FUN AT UNIVERSAL<br />
STUDIOS TM , SENTOSA<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD335 per person<br />
Includes: A 3-night stay at<br />
Orchard Hotel Singapore with<br />
breakfast daily; 1-day pass to<br />
Universal Studios Sentosa,<br />
including unlimited access to<br />
cutting-edge rides including<br />
Transformers The Ride, roller<br />
coasters and many more; and<br />
return transfers to Sentosa.<br />
Offer: 20% discount on the<br />
room rate.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
28 April 2019.<br />
TURKEY<br />
RITZ-CARLTON ISTANBUL<br />
3 nights starting from<br />
USD346 per person<br />
Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe<br />
City View Room with breakfast<br />
daily and return airport transfers.<br />
Offer: 30% discount on room rate.<br />
Valid from: Now until<br />
31 January 2019.<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 75
DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS<br />
WEEKEND<br />
ESCAPES<br />
Hilton Dubai Al Habtoor City<br />
Jumeirah At Saadiyat Island Abu Dhabi<br />
Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai<br />
UAE<br />
JUMEIRAH AT SAADIYAT ISLAND<br />
ABU DHABI<br />
1 night starting from USD341<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: Special rate.<br />
Includes: Stay in an Ocean Deluxe Room<br />
with breakfast and dinner and return<br />
airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until 24 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
ANANTARA EASTERN MANGROVES<br />
HOTEL & SPA<br />
1 night starting from USD194 per person<br />
Special offer: 15% discount on room rate.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Balcony Room<br />
with breakfast and dinner and return<br />
airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until 31 October 2019.<br />
(Book 7 days prior to arrival.)<br />
RADISSON BLU YAS ISLAND<br />
ABU DHABI<br />
2 nights starting from USD127<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: Special rate.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Standard Room<br />
with breakfast.<br />
Valid from: Now until 24 Decemeber <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
GRAND HYATT ABU DHABI HOTEL<br />
& RESIDENCES EMIRATES PEARL<br />
1 night starting from USD105<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: 20% discount on room rate<br />
and upgrade to next room category.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with<br />
breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until 30 September 2019.<br />
(Book by 31 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>).<br />
NIKKI BEACH RESORT & SPA DUBAI<br />
1 night starting from USD195<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: 20% discount on room rate.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Covet Room with<br />
breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until 24 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
HILTON DUBAI AL HABTOOR CITY<br />
1 night starting from USD100<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: 10% discount on room rate.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Guest Room with<br />
breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until 30 April 2019.<br />
(Book by 25 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>).<br />
OMAN<br />
THE CHEDI MUSCAT<br />
4 nights starting from USD1,122<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: 15% discount, a<br />
complimentary upgrade to next room<br />
category, 10% discount at the spa and a<br />
10% discount on food and beverage.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Serai Room with daily<br />
breakfast and return airport transfers.<br />
Valid from: Now until 31 January 2019.<br />
BAHRAIN<br />
SOFITEL BAHRAIN ZALLAQ<br />
THALASSA SEA AND SPA<br />
3 nights starting from USD321<br />
per person<br />
Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive<br />
an additional night free.<br />
Includes: Stay in a Superior Room<br />
with breakfast and daily and return<br />
airport transfers.<br />
Grand Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Residences<br />
Emirates Pearl<br />
Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq<br />
Thalassa Sea And Spa<br />
How to book<br />
By calling dnata on<br />
+971 4 316 6666<br />
By stepping into a dnata outlet<br />
or by visiting dnatatravel.com<br />
On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and<br />
receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.<br />
76 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
THE PERFECT<br />
SKI HOLIDAY<br />
All-Inclusive by Club Med<br />
7 NIGHTS,<br />
ALL-INCLUSIVE<br />
+ FLIGHTS FROM<br />
AED8,899pp*<br />
All-Inclusive package includes:<br />
Premium Rooms Gourmet Cuisine Beverages Expert Childcare Over 60 sports Ski Lift Pass Ski Lessons<br />
...and so much more!<br />
Experience originality at Club Med Saint Moritz Roi Soleil nestled at the foot<br />
of the Swiss Alps – the birthplace of Alpine Skiing, an ideal choice for<br />
an All-Inclusive, hassle free skiing holiday.<br />
Find out more at www.dnatatravel.com<br />
To book call 800 DNATA (36282) or<br />
speak to us in-store<br />
Download our app<br />
| Follow us on<br />
*Terms & conditions applied. Price is per person based on two people staying seven nights at the 4* Club Med<br />
Saint Moritz Soleil Hotel on a all-inclusive basis, with return economy flights. Traveling between 01/12/<strong>2018</strong><br />
to 31/03/2019. Subject to availability.
DIGITAL<br />
Reethi Faru Resort<br />
Win a Maldives holiday!<br />
In need of a tropical island escape?<br />
We’re giving away a three-night<br />
stay at Reethi Faru Resort. Just<br />
a 45-minute seaplane ride away<br />
from Male International Airport,<br />
the lucky recipient will stay in<br />
a Jacuzzi Beach Villa on a halfboard<br />
basis, with a complimentary<br />
massage for two people and a<br />
diving activity thrown in. To enter,<br />
visit worldtravellermagazine.com<br />
Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara<br />
Happy<br />
GET CLICK<br />
Twiddling your thumbs<br />
between issues? Simply visit<br />
worldtravellermagazine.com<br />
for even more travel inspo, and<br />
carry on the conversation<br />
on our social channels<br />
Follow us on Instagram<br />
@dnataworldtraveller<br />
to double tap our dreamy<br />
destination shots and tag us<br />
in your images for a chance to<br />
feature on our wall.<br />
MINI BREAK<br />
Our handy guides to easy-toreach<br />
destinations perfect for<br />
a long weekend away<br />
Used up all your annual<br />
leave? There’s still time to<br />
squeeze in one last trip of the<br />
year. For inspiration, head<br />
straight to our weekends<br />
section for ideas on where to<br />
spend a your free days, as well<br />
as top hotels on home turf.<br />
Palazzo Versace<br />
Dubai<br />
Find us on Facebook<br />
@worldtravellermagazine<br />
and stay up to date with travel<br />
stories as we post them.<br />
Tweet with us<br />
@WT_Magazine<br />
– make the most of your<br />
280-character allowance<br />
by sharing your best travel<br />
moments with us.<br />
TRAVEL<br />
INSPIRATION AT<br />
YOUR FINGERTIPS<br />
An aerial view of Emirates<br />
Palace, by Seawings<br />
STAYCATIONS<br />
Hot hotels on your doorstep<br />
that’ll put you in a holiday<br />
state of mind<br />
Available on your desktop,<br />
tablet and smartphone<br />
<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong> 79
Suite dreams<br />
Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a<br />
suite that has a character and style all of its own<br />
Signature Suite<br />
Hotel Montalembert, Paris<br />
Though renowned for its extravagant palace hotels, it's the boutique<br />
properties of Paris where guests really get to savour the vibe of the city.<br />
Styled to feel as though you're staying in your own apartment, albeit<br />
one housed at the top of a beautiful Haussmann-style building which<br />
dates to 1926, the Signature Suite at the wonderfully welcoming Hotel<br />
Montalembert is dressed in the finery you'd expect of Paris: heavy oak<br />
flooring, marble in the bathroom, silk curtains and Hermès’ detail.<br />
The walls are also adorned with paintings by French artist Jean-Pierre<br />
Bourquin, yet it's the framed real-life shot of Eiffel Tower that you<br />
won't be able to take your eyes off. Hotel Montalembert is a member of the<br />
Preferred Hotels & Resorts L.V.X. Collection.<br />
80 <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveller</strong>
Abu Dhabi boasts a treasure trove of culture, just waiting to be discovered.<br />
From its rich historic traditions to its vibrant, dynamic arts scene.<br />
From a wealth of spectacular sites which offer a window into the past, to<br />
a calendar of world-class events with contemporary vigour, tradition and<br />
heritage.<br />
Now, all of Abu Dhabi’s cultural heritage is in one place for you.<br />
Abu Dhabi Culture is an easy-to-use platform offering the full breadth and<br />
depth of Abu Dhabi’s cultural information, right at your fingertips.<br />
Explore every historic topic, keep up-to-date with every calendar event,<br />
browse our latest photography and videography libraries, or go exploring<br />
via the walk-throughs and interactive maps.