Boker Barbers Corner | BUSA Edition 2017 / 2018

28
BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN
SHAVING WITH A FORGED BLADE
I. Preparation of Skin and
Beard hair
Before shaving, skin and
beard hair must be prepared
carefully. This saves both
the skin and the blade at the
same time. For this purpose,
it is best to shave right after
a hot shower or apply a hot,
wet towel to one's face for
several minutes. Then splash
the skin with warm water.
If desired, the skin can also
be treated with shaving oil
before the water. Next, apply
the thickly beaten foam with
the brush. The soap should be
left on for at least 2 minutes.
II. Preparing the Razor
While the shaving soap
softens the beard, there is
enough time to strop the
straight razor, as described
in the chapter "Stropping &
Care" (see page 45), on a
suspended or mounted strop.
III. Shaving with the Grain
It may be necessary now to
re-apply soap with the wet
brush. The foam has to be
kept wet for the duration of
the entire shave. The handle
of the razor is folded back so
that the blade is exposed and
forms roughly a right angle
with the handle. The handle is
wedged between middle and
ring finger and points away
from the back of the hand.
Now push the blade over the
skin along the grain – the
direction in which the beard
grows – with gentle pressure.
The angle should lie between
20° and 45°, the exact value
depends on feeling and
experience. Beginners should
first shave the “easy” parts,
like cheeks, and shave the rest
of their face with the shaving
method they have used up to
now. With more practice and
skill, they can slowly expand
the shave to the other areas of
the face.
CAUTION: The elbow stands
wide apart and not in the center
of your own attention. If you
bump into something with the
elbow you will often get a
painful cut.
IV. Shaving Against the Grain
After shaving with the grain,
you can change the shaving
direction to against the grain
for a deeper and more thorough
shave if desired, and if your
skin can handle it. To do so,
wet the skin again and apply
soap.
V. After Care of Skin and
Razor
After the shave, first rinse
skin with cold, clear water.
This closes the pores of the
skin and any small cuts. The
razor is dried and oiled as
described in the chapter “Care
& Stropping” (see page 44).
Depending on your preference,
you can apply an aftershave or
facial lotion.