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Inside<br />
Moto Guzzi<br />
Special<br />
Booming Italian let<br />
loose in Somerset<br />
Truly Matchless<br />
Super-rare 750cc twin on the road<br />
Continental<br />
lifestyle<br />
Reader’s lifelong passion<br />
for Enfield’s sweet 250<br />
FEBRUARY 2018 | modified triumph 650 | team obsolete | enfield continental | matchless 45 | wasp motorcycles | vintage trikes | fit electronic ignition | sunbeam project | <strong>issue</strong> #457<br />
PLUS<br />
20 pages of<br />
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World<br />
News<br />
B r i t a i n ’ s b i g g e s t - s e l l i n g c l a s s i c b i k e m a g a z i n e<br />
subtle sensation<br />
Stealth<br />
Triumph<br />
Beautiful TT replica hides cunning<br />
upgrades for our modern world<br />
Britain’s forgotten 1000cc twin<br />
160mph Trident outfit ¤ Salon Moto Legende<br />
Vintage trikes tear up Brooklands<br />
Swiss JAP Special ¤ 50 years of Wasp<br />
Inside Team Obsolete<br />
Workshop<br />
Project Sunbeam<br />
Electronic Dominator<br />
Enfield frame<br />
Feb 2018 UK Jan 24-Feb 20<br />
£4.30 USA $9.99
The<br />
<strong>issue</strong><br />
Two fingers on the<br />
clutch? You’d want<br />
more than that on<br />
an earlier Jota...<br />
Sound<br />
The<br />
speed<br />
of<br />
words: Phillip Tooth.<br />
Photography: tim keEton<br />
Velocity is intoxicating, but when it’s combined with a noise that sounds<br />
like a portent of the world’s end, it can only be one thing – a Laverda Jota<br />
70<br />
71
laverda jota<br />
1<br />
2<br />
T<br />
o say that the Jota comes with a<br />
reputation is a massive understatement.<br />
When it was launched in 1976, it was the<br />
fastest road bike that money could buy.<br />
While the Ducati GT I owned at the time<br />
was good for about 115mph and my Le Mans’ top speed<br />
was closer to 130, the legendary Jota was the first overthe-counter<br />
production road bike to top 140mph. It<br />
didn’t matter if it was too heavy and that you had to<br />
bully it round bends, or that you<br />
needed two hands to pull in the<br />
clutch lever, the Jota blew the best<br />
from Japan into the weeds, and<br />
deafened them in the process.<br />
Laverda’s 981cc triple had<br />
launched itself from the Breganze<br />
factory in 1973 with the uninspiring<br />
model name 3C (Tre Cilindri). With<br />
a bore and stroke of 75 x 74mm and<br />
featuring the usual chain-driven<br />
double overhead cams with two<br />
valves per cylinder, designer<br />
Some advertising lines are just hype – but not this one<br />
Luciano Zen went his own way<br />
with a 180° crankshaft. Because the middle piston was<br />
at top dead centre when the outer pistons were at<br />
bottom dead centre, the 3C wasn’t as smooth as a 120°<br />
triple like a Triumph Trident, but it certainly wasn’t<br />
rough – and the power pulses gave the exhausts a brutal<br />
bark. Laverda claimed 80bhp at 7250rpm and a top<br />
speed of 137mph... but you could take those figures with<br />
a large grind of black pepper.<br />
It was British importer Slater Brothers who unleashed<br />
the Beast of Breganze. Richard and Roger Slater had<br />
‘the Jota blew the best from Japan<br />
into the weeds – and deafened<br />
them in the process’<br />
On the gas with the<br />
fastest bike of its<br />
generation<br />
been campaigning a 3C in production racing with some<br />
success. Fork triple clamps from the SFC750 endurance<br />
racer twin were used to give a shorter rake. The engine<br />
delivered extra punch, thanks to a factory cam and<br />
pistons designed for the endurance racers that first<br />
appeared at the Bol d’Or, and the silencers lost their<br />
baffles while the collector pipe was a bit bigger. Those<br />
mods were enough for another 8-9bhp at peak revs, and<br />
that meant harder acceleration. In 1975 Slater Brothers<br />
built a small number of these<br />
racers for the road, and called<br />
them the 3CE (‘E’ for England).<br />
Tested at the Motor Industry<br />
Research Association track, the<br />
latest Laverda recorded a mean<br />
average speed of 133.3mph.<br />
The Breganze factory had also<br />
been busy, upgrading the 3C with<br />
Laverda’s own cast wheels, triple<br />
Brembo discs and a tail fairing to<br />
produce the 3CL for the 1976<br />
season. This was to be the bike<br />
that the Slater Brothers would use<br />
as the basis for the Jota, a name that music-loving Roger<br />
chose after hearing Spanish folk dance songs with a<br />
three/four beat – and they didn’t hang about.<br />
Available from January 1976, the Jota’s engine was<br />
factory-built to Slater’s 3CE specification. The<br />
transmission featured a lower first gear ratio (9.51:1<br />
instead of the 3CL’s 11.24:1) and closer ratios for the<br />
other four, which made the Jota racetrack-ready and a<br />
great bike to ride on fast, open roads. Claimed<br />
maximum power was now 90bhp at 7600rpm. And that<br />
1: High, wide,<br />
handsome –<br />
and very fast<br />
2: Pumper<br />
Dell’Ortos feed<br />
in the fun juice<br />
3: Adjustable<br />
handlebars and<br />
Japanese clocks<br />
are quality touches<br />
4: Just so as you<br />
know what’s<br />
overtaking you<br />
5: Looks like a<br />
silencer – but looks<br />
can be deceptive...<br />
was enough for a two-way average of 137.80mph, with a best<br />
one-way of a benchmark-setting 140.04mph.<br />
Those first Jotas were available in either red or green paint for<br />
the tank and side panels, with a black frame. Silver was the<br />
colourscheme for 1977, with gold an option the following year,<br />
when the Ceriani suspension was replaced by Marzocchi.<br />
Laverda’s official orange race livery and a silver frame graced the<br />
Jota in 1979. For 1980 the cylinder head was redesigned, the<br />
exhaust headers were increased to 36mm diameter and the<br />
clutch got extra plates. There were more changes in 1981, when<br />
the Series II Jota got a bigger-output alternator (up from a barely<br />
adequate 140W supplied by Bosch to an impressive 240W<br />
thanks to Nippon-Denso). The transistorised ignition was<br />
moved to the left side of the crankshaft, and the primary<br />
chaincase grew a bulge as big as mamma’s pasta pot to hide it.<br />
Almost as important, the clutch cable was replaced by a<br />
hydraulic system. The big news for 1982 was a new 120° crank,<br />
but a year later the Jota was replaced by the RGS.<br />
I’d have been happy to throw my leg over any Jota, but the<br />
pick of the bunch has to be the 1981 orange-and-silver version<br />
that owner Terry Sage wheels out of his garage before handing<br />
me the ignition key. Before hitting the starter, I used to openand-close<br />
the twistgrip on my Le Mans so that the pumper carbs<br />
would squirt neat petrol into the combustion chambers. The<br />
Jota also wears pumper Dell’Ortos, but Terry does things<br />
differently. “Just pull back the choke lever a bit and press the<br />
button. It’ll fire immediately, then ease the choke right off.”<br />
The Jota’s soon ticking over reliably. It’s my first surprise.<br />
This Jota is full of surprises. The second is that I can plant<br />
both feet on the ground. The seat height might be a crotchstretching<br />
32in, but the nose of the seat and the rear of the tank<br />
are both slim. I think it was journalist Peter Watson who<br />
described the Jota’s Brevettato ace bars as ‘adjustable to 27<br />
different configurations, none of them comfortable’ – and I still<br />
laugh whenever I see a Jota and think of him. Yet as soon as I set<br />
off, I feel completely at home, easing through rush-hour traffic<br />
and out of the city as if I’d owned this Jota as long as my Duke.<br />
After a quick blast along a dual carriageway, I change down<br />
23<br />
4<br />
5<br />
73
1 laverda jota<br />
into third entering a village and rumble through with<br />
rock-steady needles recording 30mph and 2000rpm on<br />
the Japanese clocks. Read that again: third gear, 30mph,<br />
2000rpm. I didn’t believe it, either – and had to play<br />
with the gearbox to make sure that I was right. Wasn’t<br />
the Jota meant to be a right pain in the neck – and<br />
wrists, and clutch hand – to ride slowly, and only come<br />
into its own when you were thundering across England<br />
at speeds close to twice the legal limit?<br />
But when I crack on, the Jota begins to reveal its true<br />
nature. The engine growls, the exhausts boom and as the<br />
needle swings past 6000 my guts tell me that things are<br />
getting exciting. The Jota can be safely revved to 8500,<br />
but with 500rpm in hand that’s still 60 in first, nearly 90<br />
in second and 110 in third. Two more gears to go...<br />
You don’t ‘think’ a Jota through bends. At 236kg<br />
(522lb) with a gallon of super unleaded, it weighs the<br />
same as my old GT – but most of that weight is carried<br />
much higher. Stay focused. Get your braking done early<br />
and pitch it into the corner. Winding on the throttle<br />
helps to pick the Jota up again and throws it out of the<br />
apex. You’ll have to use muscles you forgot you had, but<br />
it feels good. Who needs a gym when you’ve got a Jota?<br />
On fast sweepers the steering is faultless. You can<br />
relax at 70mph with the engine turning over at a lazy<br />
4000rpm, or cross continents at the ton and still only be<br />
using 5700rpm. Gears snick effortlessly into engagement<br />
and the hydraulic clutch feeds the power in smoothly.<br />
Brake and clutch levers were set up by Ricardo Oro’s<br />
workshop in Breganze, so they are as good as you can<br />
get, but after riding for four hours the thumb muscle on<br />
my left hand was aching and I didn’t like the front brake.<br />
Although it was powerful enough, it had as much feel as<br />
squeezing a pick-axe handle. And the lever was too far<br />
from the handlebar for the span of my dainty paw.<br />
There was time for some cornering photos before we<br />
headed home, and that meant turning around in the<br />
road a half-mile from the bend. We were in the middle of<br />
the country and there was only one house, so I didn’t<br />
think we would disturb anyone, but I was making the<br />
fifth turn when an old woman came out and said<br />
politely: “You are making an awful lot of noise. Can you<br />
please do that somewhere else?” Pointing out that I was<br />
only using half-throttle wasn’t the way to respond, so I<br />
apologised and we moved on. The Jota legend lives.<br />
‘It’s special’<br />
Terry Sage bought and fixed up a<br />
crash-damaged 1976 Laverda 3CL<br />
when he was 19. “I’d been riding<br />
the 3CL for four years, but I really<br />
wanted a Jota. When I saw a<br />
secondhand orange-and-silver one<br />
at Three Cross Motorcycles in 1985<br />
I had to have it.” Terry was working<br />
as a steel erector at the time: “I was<br />
earning good money, but it cost<br />
£3500 so I had to go to the bank<br />
and get ticked up to the eyebrows.”<br />
He was still running his Jota in<br />
1998, but was being left behind by<br />
his mates who were all riding<br />
modern supersports. So he sold the<br />
big triple and bought a Ducati 748.<br />
“I realised I’d made a mistake as<br />
soon as I sold it,” says Terry. He<br />
chopped in the 748 against a 996,<br />
then a 999 and finally 1098S – but<br />
he still hankered after a Jota. “I<br />
know it was loud, heavy and slow<br />
compared to modern sports bikes,<br />
but it was something special.”<br />
He bought another Jota, but had<br />
top-end oil feed problems. Ged<br />
Shorten at GCS found that the six<br />
long studs which fix the cam<br />
bearings, cylinder head and barrel to<br />
the crankcase had been fitted<br />
upside down. As they were<br />
tightened, some of the threads had<br />
been ripped from the crankcase.<br />
The studs are 9mm diameter and fit<br />
in a 10mm hole. Oil is pumped up<br />
the gap to feed the cam bearings<br />
but now the lubricant was simply<br />
returning to the sump.<br />
After the crankshaft was rebuilt<br />
by Keith Nairn of Laverda Scozia,<br />
Ged repaired the crankcase and<br />
rebuilt the engine using Omega<br />
ceramic coated pistons.<br />
With the Jota properly sorted,<br />
Terry is enjoying the good times<br />
again. “My friends all admit that she<br />
can get a move on for an old girl!”<br />
‘The engine growls, the exhausts<br />
boom, the needle swings past<br />
6000... things get exciting’<br />
The legend lives on –<br />
and Phillip survived<br />
the experience, too<br />
74
going native<br />
The Bravest Indians<br />
The recent revival of the Indian marque has brought it back into the<br />
spotlight, so here’s a reminder of its first incarnation. We look at<br />
some of the legendary models that forged the famous firm’s identity<br />
words & Photographs: phillip tooth<br />
▲ 1905 Camelback<br />
On May 24, 1901 Oscar Hedstrom sent a telegram to George Hendee to<br />
tell him that the first Indian was finished. Six days later he was riding the<br />
prototype around Springfield before towing his friend Brooks Page, who<br />
was on a bicycle, up a long hill. Hedstrom’s engine had a capacity of<br />
260cc and was fitted into a bicycle frame, with chain drive and a top<br />
speed of 25mph. The first production Indian was assembled at the<br />
Springfield factory and was on the road in May 1902, with a total of 143<br />
built that year. Three years later a bigger single-cylinder engine rated at<br />
2.25hp was offered, with a bore and stroke of 67 x 82.5mm adding up to<br />
a capacity of 290cc. When this 1905 red Indian (a colour option to the<br />
standard Royal Blue) was first pedalled into life, there was a spring fork<br />
and a twistgrip control to the carburettor. Production rocketed to 1181 in<br />
that year. Speed had increased dramatically and a tuned version covered<br />
the flying mile at 52mph. That was really flying...<br />
▲ 1912 Hedstrom Racer replica<br />
Headline news in 1906 was the addition of the 633cc V-twin racers to the<br />
catalogue, soon followed by the road version (still with a camelback tank).<br />
A single-loop cradle frame replaced the bicycle-style diamond frame in<br />
1909, and there was a coiled spring in a cartridge mounted horizontally<br />
above the mudguard to provide suspension for the forks (although the<br />
famous leaf-spring forks were introduced for the 1910 season. There was<br />
also a new 988cc F-head engine with a mechanical oil pump, and these<br />
engines were reduced to 585cc to make them eligible for the 1911 Isle of<br />
Man Senior TT, the first time the race was run over the Mountain course.<br />
With all-chain drive, a clutch and a two-speed gearbox the red Indians<br />
swept the board with a 1-2-3 finish. At the end of 1911, Indian held all 121<br />
American speed and distance records. For the motodromes, Hedstrom<br />
developed an eight-valve engine but these rare beasts were for the<br />
chosen few. Mere mortals used a tuned F-head like this 1912 racer replica.<br />
1917 PowerPlus<br />
When a road tester arrived back at the Indian experimental department<br />
after a hard, fast ride Charlie Gustafson, who designed the new V-twin,<br />
and Frank Weschler, in charge after founders Hendee and Hedstrom had<br />
retired, stubbed out their cigarettes and walked out to meet him. “What<br />
does she go like?” asked Gustafson. “Man, this motor has power –<br />
plus!” replied the tester. The 998cc side-valve used the same 42° V-twin<br />
angle as the Hedstrom engine. Two years of rigorous testing were<br />
carried out before it would go into production in 1916, but to prove just<br />
how good the Powerplus was, Erwin ‘Cannonball’ Baker fitted a<br />
Powerplus engine to his 1914 Hedstrom chassis to attack the Three Flag<br />
record by setting the shortest time to ride from Canada to Mexico. He<br />
left Vancouver on August 24, 1916, reaching Tijuana on August 27 –<br />
1655 miles of treacherous roads in three days, nine hours, 15 minutes.<br />
“It’s a bear, a big, husky lick-all-comers machine!” Baker enthused. That<br />
rugged useability led to Indian supplying the US Army with nearly 50,000<br />
Powerplus motorcycles after America entered World War I.<br />
▲ 1917 PowerPlus Boardtrack<br />
Somehow, Charles Franklin managed to extract more power out of a<br />
Powerplus engine than Harley’s top tuners could squeeze out of their<br />
eight-valve engines. While the 1917 road bike now featured leaf springing<br />
front and rear, the earliest board track and dirt track bikes used a cut-down<br />
frame and were often raced in rigid form. Later there would be special<br />
Marion frames for the Powerplus racers. The tube that ran under the<br />
engine on the loop cradle frame was cut out, and the engine held in place<br />
with steel plates. It seemed like a backward step when these bikes were<br />
debuted at the 200-mile national championship race in Marion, Indiana in<br />
1919, but the pundits were proved wrong. A Daytona version of the<br />
Marion frame, complete with lowered top tube and headstock, was<br />
adopted in 1920. These frames are easily recognisable because the seat<br />
tube had to be bent into an S-shape in order to make the engine fit<br />
properly. The Daytona soon became the factory riders’ favourite bike, but<br />
there were plenty of farm boys and garage mechanics who raced<br />
stripped-down Powerplus cycles.<br />
ABOVE: Spring forks<br />
went on road bikes;<br />
racers were rigid<br />
both ends<br />
RIGHT: Rugged<br />
but tuneable<br />
Powerplus engine
going native<br />
xxxxxxxxx xxx xx xx<br />
xxxxx xxx xxxxx xx<br />
▲ 1930 Scout 101<br />
‘You can’t wear out an Indian Scout’ was the boast long before the 101<br />
was launched in the spring of 1928. Capacity had been hiked from the<br />
original 600 to 750cc for the 1927 Police Special, and it was this ’45 cubic<br />
inch’ engine that went into the 101. One of the best Indians ever, the new<br />
Scout was about 3in longer, 1in lower at the saddle and even had decent<br />
brakes. Big ‘balloon’ tyres were standard and handling exceptionally good.<br />
For 1931 there was a twistgrip-controlled oil pump to vary the delivery rate<br />
of lubricant. The 75mph 101 Scout was popular for amateur racing and<br />
Wall of Death. Despite the Depression, some 14,000 were sold before it<br />
was (unpopularly) replaced by the 203 Scout – a 750cc using the heavy<br />
Chief chassis – in 1932. The sporting image was regained with the 1934<br />
Sport Scout – a winner for Ed Kretz at the first Daytona 200-miler in 1937.<br />
▲ 1938 Type 438<br />
There was a new four-cylinder engine for the 1936 model year, but it was<br />
a flop. Called the ‘upside-down’ engine because the exhaust valves were<br />
now on the top, it looked ugly and the high exhaust pipe needed a steel<br />
guard to stop it burning the rider’s leg, so for 1938 the Model 438<br />
reverted to the original overhead inlet/side exhaust configuration. The<br />
cylinders were now cast in pairs – testing proved that eliminating some of<br />
the air gaps between cylinders allowed the heat to be pulled into the<br />
airstream more quickly. The aluminium cylinder heads were detachable<br />
with the valve mechanism fully enclosed and automatically lubricated.<br />
There was a streamlined muffler to keep things quieter on this 95mph<br />
motorcycle. Although a left-hand throttle and right-hand gearshift was<br />
standard, a right twistgrip and left gearshift was a factory option.<br />
ABOVE: Indian Big Chief<br />
was a response to the<br />
1200cc Harley<br />
▲ 1925 Big Chief<br />
For the 1920 season a radically different Indian was launched: the 600cc Scout, with semi-unit construction – the engine,<br />
primary drive, clutch and gearbox were locked together. The primary drive consisted of three helical gears, each on roller<br />
bearings, all enclosed in an oil-tight alloy casing. Instead of a single camshaft to operate all four valves there were now two<br />
camshafts, each with a single-lobe cam to operate both inlet and exhaust valves of one cylinder through pivoted cam followers.<br />
Heads and barrels were cast in one piece. The double-loop cradle frame had a flat platform to mount the engine/transmission.<br />
But there were those who demanded more power. Enter the Chief, launched on Labor Day, September 1921. The 998cc<br />
engine delivered about 20hp, enough for brisk acceleration to a top speed of 65mph. But Harley had gone supersize with a<br />
1200cc engine in 1921. The Chief was more technically advanced, but Indian needed something bigger for the 1923 season –<br />
enter the 1200cc Big Chief. In November that year Hendee Manufacturing Company became Indian Motocycle [sic] Company.<br />
▲ 1925 Ace Sport<br />
What’s Ace got to do with Indian? Rather a lot. William Henderson, the<br />
technical brains behind the Henderson Four, had fallen out with Ignaz<br />
Schwinn, whose Excelsior company had taken over Henderson in 1917.<br />
Henderson found new backers and formed the Ace Motor Company in<br />
Philadelphia in 1919, with the first high-performance F-head Aces rolling<br />
out for the 1920 season. But then tragedy struck. In 1922 William was<br />
killed while test riding his latest creation, the very rapid Sporting Solo<br />
model Ace. Ace riders set new cross-country speed records and won<br />
numerous hillclimbs, but financial troubles were never far away. In<br />
December 1927 Indian purchased the Ace assets and marketed the<br />
1300cc Four as the Indian Ace, and up to 1935 all Indian Fours were<br />
essentially Ace, which were essentially Henderson...<br />
▲ 1929 Type 401<br />
While Indian initially produced the Ace virtually unchanged, the 1929<br />
Model 401 adopted more of the parent company’s trademark features.<br />
As well as deleting the Ace name, the tank became a compact teardrop<br />
design. Indian’s famous leaf-spring fork replaced the Henderson-Ace<br />
plunger type and a drum front brake was fitted, complementing the<br />
contracting-band rear. The 401 initially shared the Ace’s single downtube<br />
frame, but vibration <strong>issue</strong>s prompted a twin-tube design based loosely on<br />
the Scout models but using heavier tubing. The new frame was fitted to<br />
the Model 402, available from spring 1929, which also featured a fivebearing<br />
crank to replace the Ace’s three-bearing unit, along with a better<br />
oil pump, redesigned cylinder heads and alloy pistons. The 402 gained<br />
50lb, so riders needed all the available 30hp to stay with the old Ace.<br />
ABOVE: Military Chief<br />
boosted 1940<br />
production<br />
‘These 75mph bikes<br />
were painted in a drab<br />
olive with no hint of chrome’<br />
▲ 1940 Military CHief 340B<br />
Although the US Army selected Harley-Davidson for World War II, in 1940 Indian received an order for 5000 Chief sidecar<br />
outfits from the French army. When events overtook France, most were diverted to other forces, including the Polish Army,<br />
many ending up in Britain - some allegedly ending up at the bottom of the North Sea in torpedoed ships. These 75mph bikes<br />
were painted a drab olive with no hint of chrome, but at least the dispatch riders had the comfort of plunger rear suspension.<br />
41
going native<br />
▲ 1942 Scout 741B<br />
The British, Canadian, Australian and other Allied forces chose the Indian<br />
Model 741B to be used alongside BSA M20 and Norton 16H dispatch<br />
bikes. Designed in 1939, with a capacity of 500cc, the 741B was lighter<br />
and almost as fast as its bigger brother. It revved to almost 5000rpm and<br />
topped out at 65mph. Production ran through to 1944, with about 35,000<br />
made. After the war, many – like this 1942 model – were stripped of their<br />
army uniform and dressed for Civvy Street with a coat of fresh paint.<br />
▲ 1943 Type 841<br />
In 1941 the US Army offered Harley and Indian a $350,000 contract to<br />
build 1000 shaft-driven 750cc twins to rival the WWII BMW. Harley’s XA<br />
was a boxer, but Indian offered a transverse 745cc V-twin., using Sport<br />
Scout cylinders. Put through their paces in summer 1942, Army testers<br />
reckoned the low-centre-of-gravity 841 handled better than the H-D with<br />
a 70mph top speed. A tough call, but there could be only one victor... the<br />
Jeep. They were sold off as war surplus in 1944 for $500 each.<br />
▲ 1946 Chief<br />
If Indian couldn’t compete with Harley’s Knucklehead in the performance<br />
stakes, the 80mph Chief certainly could when it came to style. The big<br />
news for 1940 was the skirted fenders introduced by engineer and stylist<br />
George Briggs Weaver. Although not everyone was impressed with the<br />
look, there were others who thought the skirted fenders made the Chief<br />
the most beautiful bike on the planet and today they are iconic Indian<br />
wear. Also new that year was a plunger-sprung frame, although the forks<br />
retained the leaf spring – that all changed in 1946, however. Indian had a<br />
new owner named Ralph Rogers; times were tough and the Chief was<br />
the only model produced that year, but it came with a new double-spring<br />
girder fork with a hydraulic shock absorber, basically a slimmer version of<br />
the fork developed for the military 841. The Indian head and war bonnet<br />
fender light was introduced for the 1947 model year, but Rogers’ business<br />
was struggling – he was developing a range of lightweight vertical twins<br />
to take on the Brits and finances were tight. The Chief wasn’t listed in<br />
1949, but returned in 1950 with new telescopic forks and a capacity hike<br />
to 1300cc. Three years later production of Indian motorcycles ended and<br />
the Roadmaster Chief was sent to the happy hunting grounds. But today<br />
the Chief and the Scout are back – big time. And you can even buy one<br />
with skirted fenders and that war bonnet light...<br />
▲ 1947 ‘Rainbow’ Chief<br />
In 1933 the Chief went to dry sump lubrication from the old total loss. A<br />
year later it lost the helical-gear primary drive, replaced by a cheaper and<br />
quieter four-row chain – Harley riders joked that the whine from the<br />
geared primary drive sounded like a built-in police siren. The 1935 Chief<br />
looked bang up to date with smooth ducktailed fenders and a striking<br />
Indian chief‘s head decal on the tank. Performance was improved with<br />
cylinder heads designed to increase midrange torque with a small<br />
sacrifice in top speed. But Harley had their own ideas, and in 1936<br />
launched the legendary 1000cc ohv ‘Knucklehead’. Indian’s response?<br />
A tank-top instrument panel and custom paint features – but these did<br />
become a useful selling point, with colour options running to practically<br />
anything the customer wanted. This was a side benefit of Dulux paint<br />
manufacturer E Paul duPont having taken over struggling Indian in 1930.<br />
In 1938 Rollie Free set stock class records at Daytona Beach with<br />
109.65mph for the Chief and 111.55mph for the Sport Scout.<br />
‘harley riders said The primary<br />
drive sounded like a siren’<br />
42
Workshop<br />
Spannering supremo<br />
Rick Parkington welcomes you<br />
to our Classic Workshop<br />
88<br />
Rick’s Fixes Your problems solved 92 Project bike Martinsyde cases 98 Wiring Pt2 Looms for beginners<br />
classicbike.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk
our classics 1?????????????<br />
Workshop<br />
Rick’s<br />
how to<br />
Make vintage bike grips<br />
You can adapt a regular handlebar grip like this...<br />
Fixes<br />
Solving the problems<br />
of the classic world<br />
1Here’s the problem – most handlebar grips have a closed end. If you<br />
have a vintage bike with inverted levers – or a more recent bike with<br />
handlebar weights – you need to make a neat cut.<br />
2<br />
A<br />
knife makes a mess of the job, but a wooden or nylon bar makes<br />
it easy to use a wad punch – the bar gives the necessary support<br />
of an ‘anvil’ against which the punch can do its work.<br />
If the bolt doesn’t fit<br />
the hole, it’s worth<br />
making one that does.<br />
“Clacka-tacka-tacka-tacka-tacka-tacka…”<br />
stammered the Sunbeam’s engine as I peeled off<br />
the main road into a lane. Oops, that doesn’t<br />
sound good. It’s engine speed… piston? Big end?<br />
It’s loud, so more likely piston, but (despite<br />
having opened up a bit to shake off a tailgating<br />
car) there’d been no sign of any seizure.<br />
I limped gently along, home still ten miles<br />
away… Try a hand-pumpful of oil. No<br />
difference, hmmm... I’d expect a splurge of cold<br />
oil to take the edge off a noisy big-end or<br />
piston. Try a bit of ignition retard; taking the<br />
punch out of the combustion usually quietens –<br />
or at least alters – rattles. Not this time...<br />
RICK’S patch<br />
Not as bad as it sounds<br />
A ride on Rick’s latest acquisition results in a noise that sends alarm bells ringing...<br />
‘it would be Just my<br />
luck to blow it up so<br />
soon after buying it’<br />
Who Is Rick?<br />
Rick Parkington<br />
has been riding<br />
and fixing classic<br />
bikes for decades.<br />
He lives and<br />
fettles in a fully<br />
tooled up shed in<br />
his back garden.<br />
My thoughts turned to the events I’ve<br />
booked the bike in for this year – and<br />
what I’d take instead. Just my luck to<br />
blow it up so soon after buying it;<br />
whatever the trouble it can be fixed,<br />
but it will take time and money.<br />
Spotting a lay-by, I pulled in for a<br />
quick look and bingo! The rocker<br />
support plate bolts had come loose, allowing<br />
the rockers to jump about on the head; the<br />
noise was that and the consequent slack in the<br />
tappets. After a few spanner tweaks, we<br />
completed the journey in (relative) silence.<br />
Back home, instead of simply reaching for the<br />
Loctite I had a closer look and the true cause of the<br />
problem became clear. One hole in the side plate is<br />
oversize and a loose fit on the bolt. Without the location<br />
of being a snug fit in the hole, the clamping force of the<br />
bolt will struggle to hold it from shifting and working<br />
loose. I made a shouldered bolt and hopefully that will<br />
be the last I hear of that problem.<br />
ILLUSTRATION: iain@1000words.fi<br />
3Lucky me, I have an arbor press which makes it simple, but a<br />
hammer would also do the job. It may be necessary to turn the<br />
punch after the first blow to ensure a clean cut all the away round.<br />
THE BIG FIX<br />
Do the maths<br />
Bob Covey emailed with what he called a<br />
‘simple’ question. “Rick, my BSA B44 is<br />
stripped for rebuild. It should have a<br />
compression plate, but I can’t find out<br />
what thickness it should be for the correct<br />
9.4:1 ratio. Do you know, or can you tell<br />
me how to work it out?”<br />
I don’t know – and I failed maths<br />
O-level twice before giving up. But thanks<br />
to mechanical problems like this, I’ve<br />
picked up a bit since.<br />
To work out the compression ratio, you<br />
need to know the volume of the<br />
combustion chamber at TDC, measured<br />
by tilting the engine and filling the plug<br />
hole to the bottom threads with a<br />
Higher-tuned Victor had a scary 11.4:1 compression ratio<br />
measured quantity of oil. This, added to<br />
the swept volume of the cylinder and<br />
divided by the combustion volume, will<br />
give you the ratio. For example, if the<br />
combustion volume is 100cc on a 500cc<br />
engine, 100 + 500 = 600. Divide that by<br />
100 and you get 6, or 6:1.<br />
4There we go – a nice, neat job that doesn’t look like it has been<br />
chewed out by mice. One other tip: hairspray makes a good<br />
lubricant for handlebar grips and sticks ’em in place when it dries.<br />
So can you adjust the equation to work<br />
out the combustion volume from the CR<br />
and the capacity? Suppose the 441cc BSA<br />
chamber was 50cc, then 491/50 gives a<br />
ratio of 9.82:1 – close. Trying again, I find<br />
52.5cc chamber volume would give a<br />
441cc engine a 9.4:1 ratio. The next thing<br />
is to work out by how much volume is<br />
increased by, say, a 1mm shim. The B44 is<br />
79mm bore, so using Pi x R sq x H, we<br />
can work out that a 79mm x 1mm<br />
cylinder has a volume of 0.49cc (which is<br />
hardly surprising since a 490cc Norton’s<br />
bore and stroke is 79 x 100).<br />
So, for instance, if Bob’s current volume<br />
is 51.52 (working out at 11.7:1) he would<br />
need a 2mm shim to correct it.<br />
I reckon my maths teacher should eat<br />
his cruel words…<br />
86<br />
87
ick’s fixes<br />
Workshop<br />
RICK answers your queries<br />
Studying studs Pt1<br />
Tony Dodsworth in Johannesburg is<br />
building a pre-unit 500cc Triumph<br />
for which he acquired a nice set of<br />
late Speed Twin crankcases, but<br />
there’s a catch: “None of my 500cc<br />
barrels fit them – but 650 barrels do!<br />
Any ideas what’s going on?”<br />
As it happens, Tony, yes. Because<br />
I ran into a similar problem building<br />
my Tribsa scrambler. The answer is<br />
to be found in Harry Woolridge’s<br />
excellent Triumph Speed Twin and<br />
Thunderbird Bible. Prior to 1956,<br />
the barrel stud spacing was different<br />
between 500 and 650 but from then<br />
it was standardised to the 650 pitch<br />
so pre-’56 500 barrels won’t fit.<br />
In my case I had mismatched<br />
cases – one pre-’56, one post – but in<br />
the 30-odd years since I bought<br />
them I only realised when I fitted<br />
cylinder base studs in the empty<br />
holes, having already rebuilt the<br />
bottom end. Luckily I had another<br />
bottom end with the right stud<br />
spacing – but that led to another<br />
problem. Although it appeared to be<br />
the ‘big-bearing’ crankcase I needed,<br />
it turned out to be the big-bearing<br />
casting – but machined for a smallbearing<br />
crank. I managed to<br />
machine it out OK, but it underlined<br />
the fact that although these engines<br />
all look the same, there are<br />
significant changes that need to be<br />
borne in mind.<br />
ABOVE: Barrels<br />
corroded to a<br />
head may require<br />
recourse to a press<br />
LEFT: Late 500cc<br />
Triumph<br />
crankcases share<br />
stud spacings with<br />
the 650, but early<br />
ones do not<br />
Studying studs pt2<br />
Tony Allanson has a particularly<br />
nasty problem to resolve. Corrosion<br />
has stuck his BSA A65 cylinder head<br />
fast onto its studs. After<br />
unsuccessfully trying a spanner on<br />
the crank nut with the combustion<br />
chamber filled with rope (via the<br />
plug hole), he has now removed the<br />
top end as a unit but is unsure where<br />
to go next, heat and penetrating oil<br />
having already failed.<br />
I think the only way to do this is<br />
with a press. The barrel will need to<br />
be supported on flat bars, upside<br />
down. Then I would use two pistondiameter<br />
pieces of aluminium (or<br />
wood) that can be bridged at the<br />
exposed end with a strong plate and<br />
see if the head can be pushed off<br />
that way.<br />
Hopefully, the even pressure<br />
would cause the head to throw in<br />
the towel – but if it’s stubborn,<br />
beware breaking off the cylinder<br />
flange. It may be necessary to have a<br />
thick plate laser cut and drilled to<br />
replicate the crankcase mouth so<br />
that the barrel can be bolted<br />
through all its holes for strength.<br />
Rick’s top tips<br />
Call that sturdy? Lever it out, mate!<br />
I’m not impressed with this new inverted lever, bought by a friend on the<br />
internet. Compared to an original it’s very spindly – little thicker than a<br />
teaspoon handle. You wouldn’t need to be Uri Geller to bend it – as you<br />
might discover under emergency braking...<br />
This is not what I call boxing clever<br />
My mate Bruce showed me a customer’s Monet Goyon gearbox that<br />
jumps out of gear. Despite being a matched pair, the machining was way<br />
out, with the selector shaft misaligned by 5mm! It’s all fixed now, but be<br />
aware – just because it’s original doesn’t necessarily mean it’s correct...<br />
88
ick’s fixes<br />
Taking a peak<br />
Pete Grogan emails from Australia,<br />
asking about the headlight peak<br />
he’s spotted on one of my bikes.<br />
“Was there any benefit in these or<br />
were they just cosmetic? I like the<br />
look and am trying to find one for<br />
my BSA Super Rocket,” he says.<br />
These peaks were an anti-dazzle<br />
accessory, first seen on acetylene<br />
lamps in the vintage era and<br />
re-introduced in the 1950s – despite<br />
the improbability of dazzling<br />
anyone with a 6v 30/24watt<br />
headlight bulb!<br />
Adding a bit of ‘bling’ to the<br />
front end, they regained popularity<br />
during the Rocker era. Very hard to<br />
find by the time I started looking, I<br />
managed to get the odd one here<br />
and there until I had one on every<br />
bike I owned – including a little one<br />
Workshop<br />
on my 98cc Excelsior. My dad<br />
regarded them as bolt-on junk that,<br />
if anything, slowed the bike down<br />
and I eventually gave in and<br />
stopped using them. But finding I<br />
had a couple left recently, I fitted<br />
them for old time’s sake.<br />
These days they are popular<br />
accessories for British classic cars of<br />
the ’50s and ’60s, which also used a<br />
7in headlight, so they fit just the<br />
same. They have a turned-up lip<br />
that clips in between the lamp glass<br />
and the rim, retained by the<br />
headlight W-clips – although the<br />
peak sometimes slips round to a<br />
jaunty angle, so I usually glue them<br />
in place with some silicone sealant.<br />
You can probably find them at<br />
car shows or online, but avoid ones<br />
for VW Beetles – the laid-back<br />
headlight position means the peak<br />
points down when fitted to a bike.<br />
Love them or hate<br />
them, headlight<br />
peaks have been<br />
around a long time<br />
RICK’s final word<br />
Signed and sealed<br />
Bill Hannah writes to suggest I retract my advice<br />
about machining pre-unit Triumph timing covers to<br />
accept an oil feed seal instead of the standard<br />
phosphor bronze bush (Fixes February). He says<br />
although this conversion is alleged to improve oil<br />
pressure, he has seen the seal lip ‘blow out’, resulting<br />
in zero pressure and a wrecked engine. The original<br />
bush, he points out, can wear but cannot fail<br />
completely, adding that if the cover has been cast<br />
off-centre, the hole will ‘daylight’ if machined,<br />
needing an ally-welded repair (see above).<br />
Well, I understand your concern, Bill, but this is<br />
not my experience. I had my first cover converted in<br />
the mid-’80s after finding that new bushes were no<br />
longer available. My casting was off-centre, causing<br />
the circlip groove to break though at one point but it<br />
worked perfectly for years on my Tribsa before<br />
getting ‘borrowed’ for a ’59 Thunderbird. It’s still on<br />
there and I have never even changed the seal since.<br />
In my feature on ‘Rockerbox’ a while ago, I<br />
passed on their warning about cheap pattern seals –<br />
apparently there have been some very flimsy ones on<br />
the market, and suspect these caused Bill’s problem.<br />
Triumph fitted garter seals to all big twins from ’63-<br />
on and I don’t remember hearing of any problems –<br />
even with the 750’s uprated oil pump. The seal<br />
conversion may not be an improvement but it’s an<br />
easy fix and I still can’t see anything wrong with it.<br />
RIDE WITH<br />
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