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UJ #17 - Traditional Peru

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JULY | FESTIVITY OF THE VIRGEN DEL<br />

CARMEN OF PAUCARTAMBO<br />

Diego del Río<br />

<strong>Peru</strong>’s religious festivities are one of a kind. Formally<br />

honouring the people’s devotion in a jubilant affair,<br />

these events bring thousands of devotees together to<br />

rejoice in their shared faith and pay homage to their<br />

patron saints.<br />

The fiesta of the Virgen del Carmen, held in Paucartambo, is<br />

one of Cusco’s biggest celebrations. Unlike the pilgrimage<br />

of the Lord of Qoylloriti, where mysticism and physical<br />

demands prevail, this celebration brings the colonial town<br />

of Paucartambo to a joyous halt for four days.<br />

Diego del Río<br />

There are two stories behind the origin of the devotion<br />

for the Virgen del Carmen, both of which hail from the XVII<br />

IN 1985, PAUCARTAMBO’S VIRGEN DEL<br />

CARMEN TRAVELLED TO CUSCO DURING<br />

THE VISIT OF POPE JOHN PAUL II. THE<br />

IMAGE WAS CROWNED BY THE VERY<br />

POPE IN A CEREMONY PERFORMED<br />

IN THE ESPLANADE OF THE RUINS OF<br />

SACSAYHUAMAN.<br />

The small town<br />

of Paucartambo<br />

surrenders itself<br />

to the ‘Mamacha.’<br />

On the 15th of July, the town bells ring, marking the<br />

beginning of the festivities. That same night, during the<br />

qonoyo bonfire, the dancers from the Q’olqa, Chunchu, and<br />

Maqta dance troupes – who together represent purgatory –<br />

show off their dancing and acrobatic skills. Then, the other<br />

Diego del Río<br />

The anxious<br />

devotees<br />

eagerly wait<br />

for the Virgen<br />

del Carmen’s<br />

plinth to exit<br />

the church.<br />

Century. The first version recounts that an effigy of the<br />

Virgin was sent from Spain to the district of Kosñipata,<br />

so that the people of this area could adopt her as their<br />

patron. As it made its way, however, the effigy was set<br />

down in the town of Paucartambo, upon which the<br />

local landowners gathered with prayers and offerings,<br />

enticing her to stay. In the other version, the qollas or<br />

traders who traversed the route between Paucartambo<br />

and Kosñipata discovered the Virgin’s face in bas-relief<br />

within a clay pot. The image was then sculpted by local<br />

artists in remembrance of the discovery.<br />

48<br />

A saqra hiding<br />

out on a rooftop.

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