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UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

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TREKKING IN PERU<br />

Ana Paula Alb<strong>in</strong><br />

BASIC EQUIPMENT<br />

- SMALL BACKPACK<br />

- HEADLAMP<br />

- TREKKING SHOES<br />

- WARM AND<br />

WATERPROOF JACKET<br />

- THERMAL T-SHIRTS<br />

- CAP AND SUN<br />

GLASSES<br />

- SUNSCREEN<br />

Ana Paula Alb<strong>in</strong><br />

Ana Paula Alb<strong>in</strong><br />

SALKANTAY:<br />

THE GREAT DESCENT<br />

Salkantay is the second highest mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> Cusco,<br />

and its name, salqa, means wild. It is an impressive<br />

snow-covered peak and at 6,271 metres, it is visible<br />

throughout the first day of the trek. It is a long way off<br />

but looks close enough to touch dur<strong>in</strong>g the gentle<br />

ascent to Salkantaypampa (4,100 m.a.s.l. ), site of the<br />

first camp.<br />

This comes after leav<strong>in</strong>g Cusco on the Southern Inter-Ocean<br />

Highway towards Abancay and the coast,<br />

cross<strong>in</strong>g the pla<strong>in</strong>s of Anta, breadbasket of the Imperial<br />

City. You then reach the warmth of the River<br />

Apurimac valley and Limatambo. There is fruit, and<br />

archaeological sites such as Tarawasi and haciendas<br />

dat<strong>in</strong>g from the 16th Century. For example, Sondor<br />

and Mollepata. This is the start of the route from<br />

Salkantay, although some go as far as Soraypampa<br />

before start<strong>in</strong>g the trek.<br />

On the first night even the sky is closer. The camp site<br />

is on a rocky plateau surrounded by snow-capped<br />

mounta<strong>in</strong>s; it is spacious and adequately protected.<br />

The peaks loom among the stars and the universe<br />

of constellations form<strong>in</strong>g part of Andean cosmology<br />

can be seen. The follow<strong>in</strong>g day br<strong>in</strong>gs five hours of<br />

walk<strong>in</strong>g and the 4,600-metre Salkantaycasa pass. On<br />

the way up, the ichu grass is replaced by black rock<br />

formations and more and more snow.<br />

Through the pass seems like another world – a parallel<br />

universe. Mounta<strong>in</strong>s that stretch to the horizon,<br />

ever lower, greener and more exuberant. This is the<br />

start of the Amazon bas<strong>in</strong>. The Salkantay trek takes<br />

<strong>in</strong> part of the geographic area of the Machu Picchu<br />

Historic Sanctuary and the Choquequirao Regional<br />

Conservation Area. Three great routes lead<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>in</strong>to the jungle. Salkantay is the most direct, a long<br />

descent through a large number of different ecosystems.<br />

There are lodges and camp sites as the trail<br />

descends from snow to the heat of the forest, at the<br />

Cocalmayo thermal spr<strong>in</strong>gs and the zipl<strong>in</strong>es at Santa<br />

Teresa.<br />

Then ichu gives way to orchids and heliconias. From<br />

a multitude of birds to the spectacled bear and<br />

Cock-of-the-Rocks. From the white of the snow to<br />

the green of the vegetation. And between these extremes,<br />

the pygmy forest and high jungle. For that<br />

reason, and also because it covers a section of the<br />

Inca Trail, National Geographic <strong>Adventure</strong> Travel considers<br />

this one of the world’s twenty five best hikes.<br />

And wait<strong>in</strong>g for us at the end: adventures on the rivers<br />

and forest canopy, access from the west to Machu<br />

Picchu or the rail station to Aguas Calientes, 11<br />

kilometres further on, from which to ascend to the<br />

historic city. Deity and lord of the Inca universe.

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