UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

CONTINENTAL JOURNEY
IGLESIAWASICHAY, AT
THE JESUIT CHURCH AT
MARCAPATA (BETWEEN
CUSCO AND PUERTO
MALDONADO). ITS
PURPOSE IS TO PROVIDE
NEW THATCH FOR THE
CHURCH ROOF EVERY
FOUR YEARS; BUT THE
TRADITION DATES
BACK TO PRE-HISPANIC
TIMES. IT LASTS 7 DAYS
AND PEOPLE FROM TEN
COMMUNITIES TAKE PART
Iñigo Maneiro
Iñigo Maneiro
Andahuaylillas, Huaroy Canincunca, which are worth
stopping to see. Urcos, together with the last church
mentioned, marks the end of the fourth stage of the
Southern Inter-Ocean Highway. The turn-off to Madre
de Dios and Brazil is just beyond it.
We start the climb to Abra Cuyuni, which provides impressive
views of the mountains and River Vilcanota.
Crossing the pass at 4,185 metres above sea level,
brings us to the Ocongate valley, from which we can
see Mount Ausangate, the highest peak in Cusco. The
Cuyuni roadhouse belonging to the concessionaire
responsible for maintaining the highway, is an excellent
place to stop for a coffee or coca-leaf tea, or to try the
local cheese. The road takes us the length of the valley,
with its small communities of farmers and herders. If
necessary, Ocongate is a good place to stay at the
Ausangate roadhouse, before the next stop in Quincemil.
The route then climbs to Abra Pirhuayani, at 4,735
metres above sea level the highest point on the whole
journey.
There follows a long descent into the Amazon jungle
through an infinity of different types of scenery. We
pass Marcapata with its adobe church, Inambari where
the road from Puno joins this one, and Quincemil, the
mid-point of this stretch of the Inter-Ocean Highway,
before stopping for the night at La Casona. Quincemil
is surrounded by cloud forest, rich in orchids and birds.
Our journey continues as far as Puerto Maldonado. We
continue to descend and the jungle becomes more
exuberant, until we reach the capital of the Department
of Madre de Dios. There are many lodges to choose
from close to the rivers, where we can experience different
aspects of biodiversity. We cross the longest
bridge in Peru and continue to Iñapari, passing small
villages of farmers who also survive from hunting, fishing
and gathering. We are in the heart of the jungle full
of enormous chestnut trees, which can only be found
in this part of the world, on the frontier between Peru,
Brazil and Bolivia.
Left: The highest point on the journey; from here the trail
descends towards the high jungle.
Opposite page: Quincemil, in the district of Camanti, is one
of the rainiest places on the planet and, thanks to that, one
of the most biodiverse.