UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

Christian Declercq
Christian Declercq
PLATEAUX AND VALLEYS
Negro Mayo is an extensive plateau some 4,200 metres
above sea level. It contains lakes that are home
to many species of Andean birds, including flocks of
flamingoes that settle here after their long migratory
flight. There are also communities of herders looking
after their flocks of alpaca and sheep. The petrified forest
of Huanca Huanca, consisting of conical rock formations
just 200 metres from the highway, is the start
of another steep descent in to the Chalhuanca valley,
in Apurimac.
You can stay overnight in Chalhuanca if you want to
have enough time to enjoy the cultural and natural diversity
of this long trip to the full. Chalhuanca is the half
way point between Nasca and Cusco, it is warm and
there are several places to stay. The next day we continue
on the way to Abancay, but first we go to Yacca
to see the old hacienda and enjoy the country food,
as well as another diversion to the colonial bridge at
Pachachaca. Abancay has an excellent climate and
an old tradition of immigration from Italy, hence the
popularity of home-made pasta among local families.
This has produced a particular type of regional cuisine,
which you can try in the city.
Leaving Abancay we begin a long climb within sight of
the impressive Mount Ampay. Then through the pass
and into the extensive and beautiful Curahuasi valley.
We take the turn-off to Cachora, which takes us to
Choquequirao and an interesting archaeological site:
Saywite, just off the road. Curahuasi produces the
best aniseed and linseed in Peru; you can buy them
from stalls along the road.
We will follow the River Apurimac as far as the bridge
at Cunyac, on the boundary with the Department of
Cusco. In the warm Limatambo valley we visit the ruins
at Tarawasi, the plains of Anta and take the turn-off to
Urubamba. Cusco awaits with a festive and cosmopolitan
atmosphere, as well as its extraordinary historic
and archaeological riches. This is where you can
spend a second night before continuing to the jungle.
Our route continues on the road to Puno. It includes
the beautiful churches on the Andean Baroque Trail:
Left: Contrast to other
Andean camelids, vicuñas
and guanacos are not
domesticated. Pampa
Galeras Barbara d’Achille
National Reserve is their
largest refuge in Peru.
Right: Petrified forest of
Huanca Huanca in Negro
Mayo, 4,200 m.a.s.l.
Ernesto Benavides
Christian Declercq
Left: During the colonial period, the Yacca estate
was one of the best sugar producers in the area.
The old hacienda can be visited today.
Right: Inca stone at Saywite, bearing more than
200 carved images, was probably the centre of a
water cult. It is 2.30 metres high and 4 metres in
diameter.
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