UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru
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A MODERN PILGRIMAGE<br />
Above: The porters,<br />
mostly from the village<br />
of Huilloc, are enviably<br />
fit. They take the<br />
lead every day and<br />
are responsible for<br />
prepar<strong>in</strong>g the camp<br />
site and meals.<br />
Opposite page, left:<br />
Wiñay Wayna is 3.3<br />
kilometres from Machu<br />
Picchu and is the last<br />
archaeological site<br />
on the route to the<br />
sanctuary.<br />
Opposite page, right:<br />
Intipunku or the Gate<br />
of the Sun, is the first<br />
place from which you<br />
can see the citadel.<br />
Opposite page, below:<br />
Temple of the Sacred<br />
Stone.<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
pass, at 3,800 m.a.s.l., after a visit to the ru<strong>in</strong>s of<br />
the same name. And even if you leave first, the porters<br />
soon catch up. While you are pac<strong>in</strong>g yourself,<br />
breath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> time with each step, the guides overtake<br />
you easily, and <strong>in</strong>stead of tra<strong>in</strong>ers they wear<br />
rubber sandals called ojotas. Born and raised <strong>in</strong> the<br />
Andes around Cusco, they are perfectly adapted to<br />
the altitude and difficult trails of the zone. They carry<br />
the tents, rucksacks and food, the gas bottle and<br />
cooker, while you carry just your daysack.<br />
They are the heroes of the trail and companions<br />
with whom you develop a close relationship. The<br />
majority come from highland communities <strong>in</strong> Urubamba<br />
such as Huilloc, Soqma, Mism<strong>in</strong>ay or Pallta,<br />
where Andean traditions are still ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed. Their<br />
mother tongue is Quechua, the colours of their<br />
clothes dist<strong>in</strong>guish them from the people of other<br />
places, and their ma<strong>in</strong> occupations are farm<strong>in</strong>g and<br />
weav<strong>in</strong>g of elaborate fabrics. The men can work as<br />
porters on the Inca Trail and over the years have<br />
established certa<strong>in</strong> rules: the m<strong>in</strong>imum tariff is 40<br />
soles a day plus tips, and the law says that they<br />
cannot carry more than 20 kilos.<br />
The porters cover the second stage quickly because<br />
they have to get to Wiñay Wayna before the<br />
walkers, to set up the camp site. On the way, the<br />
visitors have the opportunity to explore places such<br />
as Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca, which is<br />
probably the best-preserved site on the route and<br />
<strong>in</strong>cludes stretches of stone-paved road beautifully<br />
built <strong>in</strong>to the mounta<strong>in</strong> side and a tunnel through<br />
the liv<strong>in</strong>g rock. And f<strong>in</strong>ally, after descend<strong>in</strong>g a stone<br />
stairway, you arrive at Wiñay Wayna.<br />
Wiñay Wayna, as we have said, is the last stop before<br />
Machu Picchu. The camps are set up on a large<br />
flat area adjacent to Inca terraced fields and the<br />
excitement of be<strong>in</strong>g close to one of the great marvels<br />
of the world is shared by everyone. The site is<br />
located at 2,650 m.a.s.l., the sun sets beh<strong>in</strong>d the<br />
mounta<strong>in</strong>s and Wiñay Wayna, an astonish<strong>in</strong>g settlement<br />
that conta<strong>in</strong>s dozens of perfectly designed terraces,<br />
is enveloped <strong>in</strong> the darkness. The tents are<br />
lit by lanterns and the travellers enjoy a f<strong>in</strong>al meal.<br />
The stars sh<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> the night sky. It is 8 o’clock <strong>in</strong> the<br />
even<strong>in</strong>g and time to get some sleep.<br />
Gett<strong>in</strong>g up on the small hours is hard, but the end<br />
of the trek is at hand. You dress, prepare your rucksack<br />
and have breakfast, and then the porters arrive<br />
one by one. It is an emotional moment. And then it<br />
is time to get started. Machu Picchu is not far away.<br />
The reason for the early start is to see the citadel at<br />
dawn, when it is still partially covered by mist and<br />
you can experience the mysticism of Andean culture.<br />
The trail descends and encourages the walkers<br />
to step out. And then, without realis<strong>in</strong>g it, you reach<br />
Intipunku (Gate of the Sun), the entrance to the citadel.<br />
Beh<strong>in</strong>d it, as if protected by the clouds, is the<br />
world’s best-known Inca citadel: Machu Picchu.<br />
THE PORTERS MOTHER<br />
TONGUE IS QUECHUA, THE<br />
COLOURS OF THEIR CLOTHES<br />
DISTINGUISH THEM FROM<br />
THE PEOPLE OF OTHER<br />
PLACES, AND THEIR MAIN<br />
OCCUPATIONS ARE FARMING<br />
AND WEAVING<br />
Christian Declercq