UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

A MODERN PILGRIMAGE
Above: The porters,
mostly from the village
of Huilloc, are enviably
fit. They take the
lead every day and
are responsible for
preparing the camp
site and meals.
Opposite page, left:
Wiñay Wayna is 3.3
kilometres from Machu
Picchu and is the last
archaeological site
on the route to the
sanctuary.
Opposite page, right:
Intipunku or the Gate
of the Sun, is the first
place from which you
can see the citadel.
Opposite page, below:
Temple of the Sacred
Stone.
Christian Declercq
pass, at 3,800 m.a.s.l., after a visit to the ruins of
the same name. And even if you leave first, the porters
soon catch up. While you are pacing yourself,
breathing in time with each step, the guides overtake
you easily, and instead of trainers they wear
rubber sandals called ojotas. Born and raised in the
Andes around Cusco, they are perfectly adapted to
the altitude and difficult trails of the zone. They carry
the tents, rucksacks and food, the gas bottle and
cooker, while you carry just your daysack.
They are the heroes of the trail and companions
with whom you develop a close relationship. The
majority come from highland communities in Urubamba
such as Huilloc, Soqma, Misminay or Pallta,
where Andean traditions are still maintained. Their
mother tongue is Quechua, the colours of their
clothes distinguish them from the people of other
places, and their main occupations are farming and
weaving of elaborate fabrics. The men can work as
porters on the Inca Trail and over the years have
established certain rules: the minimum tariff is 40
soles a day plus tips, and the law says that they
cannot carry more than 20 kilos.
The porters cover the second stage quickly because
they have to get to Wiñay Wayna before the
walkers, to set up the camp site. On the way, the
visitors have the opportunity to explore places such
as Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca, which is
probably the best-preserved site on the route and
includes stretches of stone-paved road beautifully
built into the mountain side and a tunnel through
the living rock. And finally, after descending a stone
stairway, you arrive at Wiñay Wayna.
Wiñay Wayna, as we have said, is the last stop before
Machu Picchu. The camps are set up on a large
flat area adjacent to Inca terraced fields and the
excitement of being close to one of the great marvels
of the world is shared by everyone. The site is
located at 2,650 m.a.s.l., the sun sets behind the
mountains and Wiñay Wayna, an astonishing settlement
that contains dozens of perfectly designed terraces,
is enveloped in the darkness. The tents are
lit by lanterns and the travellers enjoy a final meal.
The stars shine in the night sky. It is 8 o’clock in the
evening and time to get some sleep.
Getting up on the small hours is hard, but the end
of the trek is at hand. You dress, prepare your rucksack
and have breakfast, and then the porters arrive
one by one. It is an emotional moment. And then it
is time to get started. Machu Picchu is not far away.
The reason for the early start is to see the citadel at
dawn, when it is still partially covered by mist and
you can experience the mysticism of Andean culture.
The trail descends and encourages the walkers
to step out. And then, without realising it, you reach
Intipunku (Gate of the Sun), the entrance to the citadel.
Behind it, as if protected by the clouds, is the
world’s best-known Inca citadel: Machu Picchu.
THE PORTERS MOTHER
TONGUE IS QUECHUA, THE
COLOURS OF THEIR CLOTHES
DISTINGUISH THEM FROM
THE PEOPLE OF OTHER
PLACES, AND THEIR MAIN
OCCUPATIONS ARE FARMING
AND WEAVING
Christian Declercq