A MODERN PILGRIMAGE Christian Declercq Christian Declercq Left: Start<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t. The trail starts at Piscacucho, 2,750 m.a.s.l. Right: Canals at Llaqtapata, next to the trail. Christian Declercq We have had three gruell<strong>in</strong>g days of climb<strong>in</strong>g and descend<strong>in</strong>g steep stone stairways and unpaved tracks between 3,000 and 4,200 m.a.s.l. Nevertheless it has been worth it. This trail is part of an enormous network of roads amount<strong>in</strong>g to approximately 50,000 kilometres, which once jo<strong>in</strong>ed the remotest parts of the cont<strong>in</strong>ent to the city of Cusco and was used to govern the empire. Information, armies and workmen could be moved quickly around this network, the central route of which is known as Qhapaq Ñan, and the resources of the different parts of their territory could be managed by the Incas. Along the route are numerous ru<strong>in</strong>ed build<strong>in</strong>gs, still <strong>in</strong> an excellent state of preservation, that were used for different purposes dur<strong>in</strong>g the Inca Empire. Many are small settlements hundreds of years old, located <strong>in</strong> hard-to-reach places on hillsides, hilltops and cliffs, which suddenly appear when the enshroud<strong>in</strong>g mist clears. The stone-paved road, complete with irregular stairways, connects them all perfectly through variations <strong>in</strong> altitude and difficult terra<strong>in</strong>. The road starts <strong>in</strong> the Urubamba Valley, 82 kilometres along the Quillabamba-Cusco railway l<strong>in</strong>e, at a place called Piscacucho. From there it runs along the left bank of the River Kusichaca as far as the Llaqtapata ru<strong>in</strong>s, which is thought to have been a sort of rest<strong>in</strong>g place for groups head<strong>in</strong>g to Machu Picchu. The Vilcanota Mounta<strong>in</strong>s rise impressively and the curve of the valley rem<strong>in</strong>ds us that thousands of years ago a glacier passed this way. The first camp site is at the village of Huayllabamba, where walkers take hot tea to prepare them for the chill of the night. The second day starts very early. In contrast to the first day, the trail now leads up a long, steep stone stairway through cloud forest <strong>in</strong>habited by humm<strong>in</strong>g birds, other birds and spectacled bears, which are difficult to spot but can appear when you least expect them.“How much further?”, is a common plea from hyperventilat<strong>in</strong>g walkers.“Not long now”, say the guides, whose sense of distance is certa<strong>in</strong>ly not like ours. The climb culm<strong>in</strong>ates at the Warmihuañusca pass, 4,200 metres above sea level, where your lungs seem smaller and your legs weaker. Sparse vegetation is evidence of a lack of oxygen, little grows except ichu, clumps of coarse grass that are an essential part of the diet of llamas and alpacas. When descend<strong>in</strong>g, you can see how the land becomes greener. Queñual woods (Polylepis) and flowers appear, together with humm<strong>in</strong>g birds and as you approach the high jungle the scent of herbs fills the air. The trail is not easy. You have to be <strong>in</strong> good physical condition, or have great strength of will. The third day <strong>in</strong>volves another climb as far as Runkuraqay
27