UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

A MODERN PILGRIMAGE
Christian Declercq
Christian Declercq
Left: Starting point. The
trail starts at Piscacucho,
2,750 m.a.s.l.
Right: Canals at
Llaqtapata, next to the
trail.
Christian Declercq
We have had three gruelling days of climbing and
descending steep stone stairways and unpaved
tracks between 3,000 and 4,200 m.a.s.l. Nevertheless
it has been worth it. This trail is part of an enormous
network of roads amounting to approximately
50,000 kilometres, which once joined the remotest
parts of the continent to the city of Cusco and was
used to govern the empire. Information, armies and
workmen could be moved quickly around this network,
the central route of which is known as Qhapaq
Ñan, and the resources of the different parts of
their territory could be managed by the Incas.
Along the route are numerous ruined buildings, still
in an excellent state of preservation, that were used
for different purposes during the Inca Empire. Many
are small settlements hundreds of years old, located
in hard-to-reach places on hillsides, hilltops and
cliffs, which suddenly appear when the enshrouding
mist clears. The stone-paved road, complete
with irregular stairways, connects them all perfectly
through variations in altitude and difficult terrain.
The road starts in the Urubamba Valley, 82 kilometres
along the Quillabamba-Cusco railway line, at a
place called Piscacucho. From there it runs along
the left bank of the River Kusichaca as far as the
Llaqtapata ruins, which is thought to have been a
sort of resting place for groups heading to Machu
Picchu. The Vilcanota Mountains rise impressively
and the curve of the valley reminds us that thousands
of years ago a glacier passed this way. The
first camp site is at the village of Huayllabamba,
where walkers take hot tea to prepare them for the
chill of the night.
The second day starts very early. In contrast to
the first day, the trail now leads up a long, steep
stone stairway through cloud forest inhabited by
humming birds, other birds and spectacled bears,
which are difficult to spot but can appear when you
least expect them.“How much further?”, is a common
plea from hyperventilating walkers.“Not long
now”, say the guides, whose sense of distance is
certainly not like ours. The climb culminates at the
Warmihuañusca pass, 4,200 metres above sea level,
where your lungs seem smaller and your legs
weaker. Sparse vegetation is evidence of a lack of
oxygen, little grows except ichu, clumps of coarse
grass that are an essential part of the diet of llamas
and alpacas. When descending, you can see how
the land becomes greener. Queñual woods (Polylepis)
and flowers appear, together with humming
birds and as you approach the high jungle the scent
of herbs fills the air.
The trail is not easy. You have to be in good physical
condition, or have great strength of will. The third
day involves another climb as far as Runkuraqay