UJ #7 - Peruvian Amazon

PHOTOGRAPHIC REPORT
THE GREEN ANDES OF TARAPOTO
PERUVIAN
AMAZON
A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
Connecting with Nature and Good Stories
INTERVIEW WITH KURT HOLLE
FORESTRY ENGINEER AND CO-FOUNDER OF RAINFOREST
EXPEDITIONS
AMAZONIAN ART
FROM MISSIONS TO THE URBAN JUNGLE
/1

INDEX
14
EXECUTIVE EDITOR ULTIMATE JOURNEYS
GERARDO SUGAY
CONTENT EDITOR
MARÍA EUGENIA DE ALIAGA / KM CERO
DIEGO GUERRERO / LIMA TOURS
EDITOR
RODRIGO CABRERA / KM CERO
COORDINATOR
GERALDYNE LONGORIA / KM CERO
ART DIRECTOR
KM CERO
PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR
CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ / KM CERO
GRAPHIC DESIGN
MIGUEL SANTAYA
INFOGRAPHS
SANDRA FLORIÁN
WRITERS
IÑIGO MANEIRO
PAOLA MIGLIO
DIEGO OLIVER
TRANSLATION AND CORRECTION OF TEXT
ALEJANDRA ARRARTE
24
A TROPICAL FOREST FOR
TRAVELLERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS
ERNESTO BENAVIDES
RODRIGO CABRERA
ENRIQUE CASTRO-MENDÍVIL
CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ
MARINA GARCÍA BURGOS
IÑIGO MANEIRO
HEINZ PLENGE
KM CERO ARCHIVES
LIMA TOURS ARCHIVES
PROMPERU ARCHIVES
PROTECTED AREAS OF THE
PERUVIAN AMAZON
Info graph
36

48
6/ Editorial
8/ Updates
BIRDS OF THE AMAZON
Special
INDEX
12/ 10 Things in the Amazon not
to be missed
14/ Photographic Report /
The Green Andes of Tarapoto
Valleys and Rivers of the East
24/ A Tropical Forest for Travellers
Tourism in the Peruvian Jungle
Not long ago, Peru’s jungle was
an unknown place. Now it offers
something for everyone.
56
36/ Kurt Holle
Forestry Engineer, co-founder
of Rainforest Expeditions, and
consultant
“Yes the jungle is definitely ‘in’ as
a place that evokes excitement
and a desire to visit.”
44/ Protected Areas of the Peruvian
Amazon
Info graph
48/ A Journey through the Amazon
Spend various days travelling on
an exclusive cruise ship, discovering
one of the grandest rivers
in the world.
54/ Birds of the Amazon
Info graph
56/ Cacao Pride
Walking through the countryside
here, one can almost breathe in
the tranquility and pride: Peru’s
cacao producers are finding
success around the world.
76
66/ The Human Jungle
Over thousands of years, the
people of the Amazon adapted
to one of the most complex
ecosystems on the planet. This
living area is a focal point of some
of humankind’s most pressing
issues.
74/ Peru’s Native Amazonian
Communities
I am Peru.
76/ Amazonian Art
From missions to the urban jungle.
84/ Agenda
66
86/ Expatriate
/5

EDITORIAL
Dear reader:
The best way to feel the Amazon: up close and personal.
The Amazon jungle is the largest and dazzling rainforest in the world. Its territory mainly spans Central and
Northern South America and epitomizes the main lungs of our planet. This extensive ecosystem is considered
one of the places with the broadest biodiversity on Earth. The Amazon rainforest is a huge fluvial
system that converges on the majestic Amazon River, the largest river by discharge of water in the world. The
headwaters of this impressive river are located in Peru and join our Andean and jungle areas. The Amazon rainforest
is one of the New Seven Natural Wonders of the World.
This seventh edition of “ULTIMATE JOURNEYS - Travel in Peru” focuses on the treasures and charms the Peruvian
Amazon jungle has been keeping for thousands of years. It also includes an interesting interview with Kurt
Holle, a renowned expert in business and nature in Peru, who has become acutely aware of the importance of
not altering wildlife and the Amazonian native communities.
One of the highlights of this edition is the article on Tarapoto, located in the San Martín Region. Its protected
areas, dense jungle, and cocoa and coffee plantations reveal a fantastic tourism and economic potential. The
matchless quality of these products is the result of a huge human effort and the excellent conditions provided
by nature.
The Amazon jungle offers many activities. To start with, you can navigate the largest river by discharge of water
on the planet, exploring it on board of deluxe cruises that ensure a unique experience; discover its delightful and
exotic gastronomy; appreciate a unique cultural heritage that includes a wealth of artistic expressions, dances,
customs and legends that shape the festive lifestyle of the local residents.
As a supplement to these activities, there are several ecological lodges that offer a genuinely natural experience
that allows enjoying a variety of activities such as hiking; catching piranhas; watching birds, mammals, reptiles
and many endemic animals of the jungle; experiencing the entire variety of native plants, or simply contemplating
a unique landscape.
The impressive nature and unrivaled splendor of the Peruvian Amazon rainforest comes to life in this edition. Our
purpose is to convey all this magic and make you fall in love with this natural wonder.
Enjoy a happy reading and a good learning experience!
Your friends from Lima Tours
OHSAS 18001
BUREAU VERITAS
Certification

UPDATES
UPDATES
Heinz Plenge
MANU NATIONAL PARK IS THE MOST BIO-DIVERSE PLACE IN
THE WORLD
After installing 60 hidden cameras throughout Manu National
Park, the Red TEAM-Network has obtained over 20 thousand
images of diverse land species, making Manu the most biodiverse
place in the world. The National Service for Protection
of Natural Areas (SERNANP) confirmed that various hidden
cameras were placed from the Pakitza area to the Cocha
Cashu Bio-Station during the dry season (May to September).
The images captured were evaluated and classified before
being added to the Wild Life Image Analysis System, and
subsequently released to compare populations of terrestrial
vertebrates across the globe. The data collected by the Red
TEAM-Network can be found at www.teamnetwork.org. Manu
National Park remains one of the most globally recognized and
diverse protected natural areas, boasting not only a variety of
flora and fauna, but also an amazing array of ecosystems.
Ernesto Benavides
REVAMPING THE JORGE CHAVEZ INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT FOR BETTER AEROPLANE RECEPTION
Lima Airport Partners, who operates the Jorge Chavez
International Airport, have initiated the implementation
of seven new airplane parking spaces (PEA),
with the goal of bettering the airport’s infrastructure
and yielding a higher operational efficacy, for the
benefit of its users and the growing demand on the
Jorge Chavez Airport. “The construction of the new
PEAs will not only function to augment the airport’s
capacity, but it will also give us more flexibility in
assigning the PEAs, which, in turn, will benefit airlines
that operate domestic flights,” declared Sabine
Trenk, central manager of the LAP Operations. The
construction of the new PEAs will come to a conclusion
in May of next year.
Christian Declercq

FIEXPO LATINOAMERICA - LIMA, PERU
FIEXPO LATINOAMERICA is the International Fair for
the MICE Market that promotes Latin American and
Caribbean destinations. The two-day event brings
together qualified buyers from key source markets
and selected suppliers from the main Meetings and
Incentives destinations in the region, through a program
of pre-scheduled, one-on-one meetings. FIEX-
PO will take place from the 1st to the 3rd of June, in
Lima, Peru.
Fiexpo
XVIII CENTURY ‘LA QUINTA DE PRESA’ MANSION
UNDERGOES RESTAURATION
The Ministries of Culture, International Commerce, and
Tourism have allied with the World Monument Fund
Peru to restore and re-value the infamous Quinta de
Presa mansion in Lima’s Historical Center of Rimac.
During the XIX Century, the house was bought by the
Carrillo de Albornoz family, who remained the owners
for many years, until it was eventually purchased by
the state in 1920. In 1932, Luis Sanchez Cerro turned
the mansion into the Republican Guard headquarters,
and finally in 1972, the INC declared the building a
Historical Monument.

UPDATES
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC DECLARES MACHU PICCHU A TOURIST
DESTINATION FOR 2015
Internationally recognized magazine National Geographic has chosen
the Incan citadel as the best travel destination of 2015. The publication
sent information and a photo gallery to its millions of subscribers,
along with an image of an Andean woman holding her small daughter.
The gallery depicts a selection of 21 gorgeous images of the World
Wonder, along with the caption: “Located in the Peruvian Andes, Machu
Picchu was hidden from the world for hundreds of years. Explore
the well preserved Incan ruins through a photo gallery compiled by
National Geographic.”
PARACAS CONVENTION CENTER TO COMMENCE
CONSTRUCTION IN MARCH OF 2015
The Paracas district in Ica has a defined tourism and commerce
development plan, due to its huge public and private
investment potential. With that in mind, the district will commence
the construction of the first convention center in the
area, in March of this year. In addition, there is an integral plan
to revamp the El Chaco zone in attempt to bring in more tourists.
Paracas’ Municipal Director, José Tipacti, announced
that “The convention center, which will be able to hold 1,500
people, requires a S/. 10 million investment, which is being
obtained through the Copesco Plan.”
Enrique Castro – Mendívil
PERU RECEIVED AN IMPORTANT RECOGNITION FROM THE WORLD
TRAVEL AWARDS 2014
The World Travel Awards (WTA) 2014 has recognized Peru as the
Best Culinary Destination in the World for the third year in a row. In
addition, Peruvian website peru.travel. has been declared the Best
Travel Website. Minister of the SECTOR Magali Silva claims that
“receiving this kind of flattery not only puts us in the global spotlight,
it also stimulates us. It invites us to continue with the hard work in
order to gain further achievements and to turn Peru into one of the
most important travel destinations in the world. Our government
aims to receive 4 million tourists a year by 2016, and this can help
us get to that goal.”
Ananay Hotels

CUSCO’S BELMOND HOTELS ARE INCLUDED IN THE LIST OF BEST
HOTELS IN CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA
The American edition of the Condé Nast Traveler magazine included
three of Peru’s Belmond Collection hotels in their list of Central
and South America’s Best Hotels. The Belmond Hotel Río Sagrado,
Belmond Hotel Monasterio, and Belmond Palacio Nazarenas
– numbers two, five, and eleven, respectively – were recognized in
the Readers Choice Awards list of the most luxurious, outstanding,
and highest-quality hotels in the world. The list included a total of 30
luxury hotels, 14 of which are located in Peru.
Belmond Hotel Monasterio
WE INVITE YOU TO DISCOVER OUR
COLLECTION OF EXCEPTIONAL
TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN THE WORLD’S
MOST REMARKABLE LOCATIONS.
INDIVIDUAL, INSPIRED, AND IMAGINATIVE,
THE WORLD OF BELMOND IS A WORLD
LIKE NO OTHER.
QUINTA SAN BLAS BY ANANAY HOTELS
The Quinta San Blas Hotel can be found in the heart of San Blas
– the infamous artisan neighborhood of Cusco – three blocks from
Cusco’s Plaza de Armas. This charming boutique hotel is located
within a restored Republican mansion that boasts stone patios,
18 Deluxe rooms, 2 Premium Suites, central heating, hot water,
comfortable beds, and all the perks of modern technology. It is the
perfect place for travellers who look for unique, magical lodgings,
and high-quality service. San Blas is one of the oldest neighborhoods
in Cusco. The ancient Inca temples to the thunder god,
formerly located in the neighborhood, were replaced with what is
recognized as the oldest church in the city. These days, the bohemian
neighborhood offers its visitors great art, original handcrafts,
antiques, delicious food, and culture.

13

THE GREEN ANDES OF TARAPOTO
LOCATED IN THE SAN
MARTIN DEPARTMENT,
TARAPOTO HAS BECOME
ONE OF THE MORE
APPEALING JUNGLE
DESTINATIONS FOR
TRAVELLERS AND TOUR
OPERATORS. ITS GREAT
LOCATION, GEOGRAPHY,
CLIMATE, AND
ACCESSIBILITY ARE ONLY
SOME OF ITS ALLURE.
BOASTING AMAZING
FORESTS AND NATURAL
WONDERS, AS WELL AS
A CITY FULL OF FUN AND
FESTIVE INITIATIVES, THIS
LIVELY PLACE BRINGS
TOGETHER PEOPLE FROM
ALL OVER THE WORLD.
By
Iñigo Maneiro
Photos
Christian Declercq
Río Huallaga, entry
point to the extensive
Amazon river system.

THE GREEN ANDES
OF TARAPOTO
Valleys and Rivers of the East
/15

THE GREEN ANDES OF TARAPOTO
Tarapoto’s diverse attractions
make it one of Peru’s
destinations with the most
potential in future tourism
development.
Next Page: Beautiful waterfalls –
like those of Pucayaquillo – are
common in the areas where the
east Andes meet the Peruvian
rainforest.
MANY LOCAL
TOUR AGENCIES
OFFER
OPPORTUNITIES
TO EXPLORE
TARAPOTO
Tarapoto is surrounded by three valleys, each of
which has its own personality. One takes us to
Chazuta, the main ceramic producing village in
the San Martin region, and as well as one of the best
organic chocolate production sites. This lush valley
runs along the Mayo and Huallaga Rivers.
The second valley is ample and full of light, with a
landscape defined by crop fields and pastures. It
takes us up the north Interoceanic Highway to the
villages of Lamas and Moyobamba. Lamas was established
years ago, during colonization, and is currently
made up of various Quechua-speaking Amazonian
communities who belong to the Lama group.
These people live in adobe houses, and work with
colorful clays. Meanwhile, Moyobamba is known for
its excellent gardens, which exhibit a wide variety
of plants collected from every corner of the forest
- the stars of the collection being the incredible assortment
of orchids.
The third valley is more hidden, as it is flanked by a
magnificent and imposing mountain range called Escalera,
which houses a number of a gorgeous waterfalls
and a variety of diverse fauna. Many local tour
agencies offer opportunities to explore this remarkable
protected area. The beautiful, fresh Cumbaza River
flows down the valley, surrounded by boulders
and sandy beaches. Within the valley lay three small
villages, all named after saints: San Pedro, San Antonia,
and San Roque. Every Sunday, these villages
converge and hold small, excellent food fairs.
The three valleys come together in Tarapoto, as do
some of the most important highways in Northern
Peru. One of these highways is the aforementioned
Interoceanic, which goes from Paita – in Piura – to
Yurimaguas, where the Paranapura River opens into
the Huallaga River; from the Pacific coast, to the
Amazon jungle. Another highway begins in Lima and
leads through the Andes, past the central jungles of
Tingo Maria and Jauja, arriving in Tarapoto.
Tarapoto is one of the most appealing cities in the country,
thanks to its location, accessibility, great weather,
pristine nature, and friendly locals. People come from all
over the world to enjoy this incredible place and many
now call it home. There are Italians who run restaurants
and a cigar factory; French doctors who offer alternative
therapies using sacred plants; Spanish people who
run lodges in the thick of the forest; people from Lima
who liven up the city’s night life with their fun bars and
music halls; Germans who run yoga centers; American
retirees who have moved to the jungle to enjoy their
freedom; Greek people who manage Buddhist centers;
natives from 15 different ethnic groups. Tarapoto is a
unique cosmopolitan world within the amazing world
that is the jungle.

17

THE GREEN ANDES OF TARAPOTO

The Huallaga River, on the limit of the Cerro Escalera protected area, towards the Cordillera Azul National Park.
/19

THE GREEN ANDES OF TARAPOTO
THE VALLEYS
COME TOGETHER
IN TARAPOTO, AS
DO SOME OF THE
MOST IMPORTANT
HIGHWAYS IN
NORTHERN PERU
These smiling
Peruvian women
work to protect
and maintain their
artisanal traditions.

XXXXXXXXXXXX
/21

THE GREEN ANDES OF TARAPOTO
Above: Entry to the
Shilcayo cacaoplantation
island.
Below: Toads and
insects. The Huallaga
River is known for
its wide-variety of
amphibian species.
(Ameerega trivittata on
the right).
TARAPOTO IS ONE OF
THE MOST APPEALING
CITIES IN THE
COUNTRY THANKS
TO ITS LOCATION,
ACCESSIBILITY, GREAT
WEATHER, PRISTINE
NATURE, AND
FRIENDLY LOCALS

23

A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
UNTIL RECENTLY, THE AMAZON WAS STILL AN UNKNOWN
WORLD. HOWEVER, WITH THE CONSTRUCTIONS OF NEW
AIRPORTS AND HIGHWAYS, THE JUNGLE HAS BECOME
INCREASINGLY ACCESSIBLE. AS A RESULT, PERU’S
TOURISM INDUSTRY HAS IMPROVED THE QUALITY OF
THEIR AMAZONIAN TOURS, AND EXCITING OPTIONS LIKE
SWIMMING WITH PINK DOLPHINS OR EXPLORING FOREST
CANOPIES ARE NOW AVAILABLE TO VISITORS.
By
Diego Oliver
Photos
Christian Declercq
The Peruvian Amazon makes up 60% of the
country’s territory. This huge region is covered in
an infinite green that – thanks to heavy rainfall
and powerful rivers – has come to house the most
vital ecosystem in the world. Previous to the construction
of Iquitos and Madre de Dios’ respective airports,
the Amazon was only accessible by river or by land
and each journey was a costly odyssey. Now a days,
thanks to better infrastructure and more accessible
protected areas, the travel industry has managed to
bring tourism to the Amazon in a sustainable way,
allowing for travelers to experience and enjoy some of
the most sublime paradises on earth.
Some of the most original tours in the industry are
the cruise ships that navigate the Amazon River
and its tributaries, departing from either Nauta or
Iquitos. These exclusive vessels cruise the waters
for an average of five days, allowing for passengers
to experience the jungle in a unique way. Boasting
luxurious restaurants under the direction of experienced
chefs, these ships invite guests to relax in
cozy, elegant rooms. Passengers can spend their
evenings listening to the myths of the jungle, as recounted
by their local guides, while enjoying a refreshing
cocktail from the well-stocked bar. During
the day, they have the opportunity to partake in a
variety of adventures, as small motor boats or canoes
depart daily to explore shallower waters and
immerse travellers in surrounding nature.
Collpa El Chuncho: The macaws eat the clay
from this natural deposit to clean their digestive
systems.

A Tropical
Forest for
Travellers
Tourism in the Peruvian Jungle
/25

A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
Diversity of flora and fauna
in the Peruvian Amazon.
Blue-crowned trogon
(Trogon curucui), Shansho
(Opisthocomus hoazin),
and river otters (Pteronura
brasiliensis).
Next Page: Tres Chimbadas
Lake, where trees reign.
THE PERUVIAN
AMAZON HOUSES
25,000
PLANT SPECIES,
240 MAMAL
SPECIES,
806 BIRD
SPECIES,
180 REPTILE
SPECIES,
and 362
ANPHIBIAN
SPECIES
The Pacaya Samiria National Reserve – located in
the Loreto region – is Peru’s largest protected area,
and has become known for its incredible transformation
after each rainy season, when the reserve
becomes flooded, allowing for fish and wildlife to
swim between the trees. Visitors can explore the
tranquil waters on canoes, and observe a number
of animals – including groups of river otters hunting
for snacks, and large paiche fish, which can grow
to be two and a half meters long. In the dry season,
visitors can walk along the beaches and take in the
overwhelming beauty. With any luck, they’ll get the
chance to witness the hatching of baby charapa
and taricaya turtles.
One of the more surreal moments a visitor might
have while visiting the Loreto jungle is swimming
with pink dolphins. These fairytale creatures – usually
found in the Yanayacu River – are the biggest
river dolphin species, growing close to 2.5 meters
long. Interestingly, only adult males grow into the
pink color that these animals are famous for. In the
dry season, they generally inhabit the larger rivers.
In the rainy season, however, these beautiful creatures
move through the flooded forests. Females
usually stay in these tranquil areas, as they provide
the ideal setting for nursing and raising newborn
calves.

27

A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
Red howler monkeys (Alouatta seniculus).

Luxury
as you
Deserve
Enjoy your trip with a unique and exclusive VIP
service that we can offer
Luxury Executive Charter Flights Air Medical Evacuation Fixed Base Operator (FBO)
reservas@atsaperu.com + (511) 575 – 1702 wwww.atsaperu.com
/29

A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
CONSERVATION:
THERE ARE A
TOTAL
OF 10
MILLIONs
HECTARS OF LAND
THROUGHOUT
15
PROTECTED
AREAS WITHIN THE
PERUVIAN AMAZON
The Tucan Suites in the city
of Tarapoto offer refreshing,
personalized service.
Then there are the nocturnal activities, during
which the jungle reveals a completely different
side of itself. During these activities – be it a walk
through the forest, or a boat ride – one has the
opportunity to see the creatures of the night: ants,
spiders, centipedes, caymans, and snakes. Night
is also when the majestic black panthers come
out to hunt; however, these felines are usually so
stealth, that they are rarely seen.
Meanwhile, in the jungle of San Martin, near the city
of Tarapoto, travelers can enjoy learning about the
variety of ecosystems that exist along the Huallaga
River: the dry tropical forest, the cloud forest, and
the Amazonian plains. Tours in this area include: the
exploration of different rivers, lagoons, canyons,
and waterfalls, a visit to the Chazuta community,
and a tour through coffee and cacao plantations.
If one is interested in fishing, the Amazon Rivers
can be very generous. Little has been said for sport
fishing in the Amazon, a region that provides almost
three thousand species – many of which are
exclusive to the area. Visitors can fish dorados, payaras,
and tucunares, always respecting the catch
and release practice. The journey takes travellers to
peaceful lagoons, where they will camp in secluded
malocas. This way, one avoids scaring off the wildlife
with their arrival, and can just wake up with the
dawn and fish the unsuspecting prey.
It is precisely in the earliest moments of the morning
that the jungle seems more alive than ever. Dawn
appears to unleash animal wildness. Monkeys howl
and screech in the distance. Deer, capibara, and
sloths slowly awaken. This is perhaps the best
time to explore. Almost all established lodges have
hiking trails that tourists can wander in hopes to
observe local fauna. In southern Peru’s Tambopata
reserve, one can take a short hike to one of the
various clay-licks, where hundreds of macaws congregate
in a frenzy to lick the clay – a way to clean
the stomach – and chat before the day unfolds.
The plants are the foundation of the food chain,
nurturing the creatures of the Amazon – big and
small. While most flora fights for light, the ceiba tree
revels in the sunlight as the tallest in the jungle,
growing up to 40 meters high. In both Peru’s northern
jungle and southern Madre de Dios jungle,
visitors have the incomparable privilege of floating
above the canopy on a series of hanging bridges
that connect the tallest trees, and provide an amazing
perspective of the jungle’s dense, green forests.
These canopy walks take tourists through a
rarely seen world of monkeys, birds, insects, and
other species who spend their days far from the
ground, in a cloud of green leaves famous for being
‘the lungs of planet earth.

Christian Declercq
Al desviarse unos minutos de las carreteras del valle puede tener encuentros inolvidables.
/31

A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
White caiman (Caiman crocodilus) on the banks of the Tambopata River.

O x y g e n E n h a n c e d T o u r i n g
“The oxygen enriched cabin is effective in preventing altitude sickness.
Passengers will feel great cruising even this high across the highplateau”.
says onboard medical advisor Dr. Dante Valdivia
Cima Clinic in Cuzco
"La cabina enriquecida con oxígeno es eficaz para prevenir el mal de altura. Los pasajeros
pueden estar seguros de sentirse bien incluso en las zonas más altas del Altiplano".
comentó el médico asesor a bordo Dr. Dante Valdivia
Clínica Cima en Cuzco
Alleviates altitude sickness symptoms including shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue and nausea.
Alivia los síntomas de altitud como la dificultad en la respiración, dolores de cabeza, fatiga y náuseas.
A higher concentration of oxygen will provide a more relaxing journey.
Una mayor concentración de oxigeno ayudará al pasajero en tener un viaje más placentero
Oxygen departure valve
Válvulas de salida de oxígeno
Driver Panel
12v o 24v Solenoid Valve
Válvulas de 12v o 24v
40sch Flowmeter
Flujometro de 40sch
Oxygen Cylinders
Cilindros de Oxígeno
40psi Pressure regulator
Regulador de presión de 40psi
Low pressure Oxygen line under bus
Línea de Oxigeno de baja presión debajo del bus
The additional Oxygen in BusO2, creates a special
environment 1000m / 3280 ft lower than the actual altitude
El oxígeno adicional en el Bus, crea un ambiente
especial 1000m más abajo que la altura real.
For more information, please contact your Lima Tours
Specialist or write us to: inbound@limatours.com.pe
www.limatours.com.pe
Para más información, favor contáctese con su especialista
de Lima Tours o escribanos a: inbound@limatours.com.pe
/33

A TROPICAL FOREST FOR TRAVELLERS
Above: Inkaterra Hacienda Concepción in Madre de Dios.
Below and next page: Pumarinri Lodge in San Martín.

TAMBOPATA LUXURY PROGRAM
3D/2N
DAY 1
• Arrive to Madre de Dios, assistance and transfer to
Reserva Amazonica Hotel.
• Lunch, followed by a hike through the Lodge’s forest trails.
• Navigate down the Madre de Dios River.
• Welcome cocktail and dinner.
• Presentation about the wildlife in the area.
DAY 2
• Early morning excursion to see the sunrise over the Madre de Dios River.
• Breakfast and day planning. You can choose from a wide-variety of
activities that the lodge offers, like: Inkaterra Canopy, a visit to the
Sandoval Lagoon, jungle hikes, or a visit to the Gamitana Gorge,
among others.
• Presentation about Amazon issues.
• Lunch and dinner included.
DAY 3
• Breakfast and checkout.
• Boat transfer to the city of Puerto Maldonado.
• Visit the butterfly garden.
• Transfer to the airport.
IQUITOS PROGRAM
4D/3N
DAY 1
• Arrive in Iquitos, assistance and boat transfer to your chosen lodge.
• Lunch and a hike through the forest.
• Dinner and a musical presentation.
DAY 2
• Bird watching
• Breakfast and a boat excursion in search of pink and gray dolphins.
• Visit to the Yagua native community where you will watch a blowpipe
demonstration and then have the chance to purchase items made
by the community members.
• Lunch at the lodge, followed by a visit to the Indiana village.
• Dinner and rest.
DAY 3
• Visit the Explornapo Lodge and the Sucusari Reserve.
• Breakfast, followed by a trip to a hanging bridge.
• Lunch at the lodge followed by a walk through the ethno-botanical
gardens.
• You will have the rest of the day to relax
DAY 4
• Breakfast, followed by a hiking or boating excursion.
• Transfer to Iquitos by boat.
TARAPOTO PROGRAM
3D/2N
DAY 1
• Reception and transfer to hotel.
• Welcome juice.
• Free afternoon to enjoy the pool.
• Dinner.
DAY 2
• Breakfast.
• Depart to the Huallaga Canons, stopping at the most beautiful
and interesting places along the way.
• Hike through the rainforest to the Pucayaquillo Waterfalls, and
then to the Pumarinri Lodge.
• Lunch.
• Spend the afternoon enjoying the Lodge’s pools.
• Return to Tarapoto.
• Dinner.
DAY 3
• Breakfast.
• Journey through the jungle until arriving at the Ahuashiyacu
Waterfalls, located in the Cerro Escalera Reserve.
• Return to the hotel for lunch.
• Afternoon transfer to airport for departure.
For more information contact: inbound@limatours.com.pe.
/35

INTERVIEW
Interview with
Iñigo Maneiro
Photos
Christian Declercq
Next Page: The
jungle’s trees provide
homes for a variety
of animal species.
Both the trees and
animals are currently
threatened due to
deforestation.
Marina García Burgos
Kurt Holle
Forestry Engineer, co-founder of Rainforest Expeditions, and consultant
TODAY, RAINFOREST EXPIDITIONS HAS TWO ECO-LODGES AND AN INVESTIGATION CENTER IN THE TAMBOPATA
NATIONAL RESERVE. THE FIRST COMPANY IN PERU TO JOIN FORCES WITH AN INDIGENOUS GROUP, RAINFOREST
EXPEDITIONS WENT INTO BUSINESS WITH MADRE DE DIOS’ INFIERNO COMMUNITY EIGHTEEN YEARS AGO. TOGETHER,
THEY RUN THE POSADA AMAZONAS LODGE, WHICH IS CURRENTLY OWNED BY THE COMMUNITY. WHOSE MEMBERS
OVERSEE THE ADMINISTRATION, LOGISTICS, HUMAN RESOURCES, AND OPERATIONS, WHILE RAINFOREST EXPEDITIONS
COLLABORATES WITH THEM TO MANAGE THE MARKETING AND SALES ASPECTS OF THE BUSINESS.
Is the jungle “in”?
Yes the jungle is definitely ‘in’ as a place that evokes
excitement and a desire to visit. Its always been considered
a difficult place to invest because at the end
of the day, it’s a hard place to understand. It never
ceases to amaze me how little people actually know
about the Amazon. It’s a hugely misunderstood place.
If people understood two or three basic things about
the jungle, it would resolve a lot of the issues that they
face living there. In reality the issues are more results
of misunderstanding than wrongdoing.
From a touristic point of view, why do you think
the jungle is ‘in’?
Because the exotic and remote always attract, and
the Amazon still offers both these qualities. People like
the fact that its not oversaturated with tourism, that
there are places that maintain their personality, that
there is wildlife. It is not the same as walking a paved
path in a natural reserve, like those in the United States
and Europe. The wildness still exists, and it’s more
accessible than ever.
What kinds of investment possibilities do you
see in the Amazon?
I think that the Amazon is a very tricky place for business,
as businesses exist and are conceived today.
The world and the economy demand volume and
homogeneousness, and the jungle is not reliable for
either of these things. It can only provide small volumes,
and in diverse ways. Those are, in fact, its strengths
– diversity more than volume. Either way, making
its reality work within the constructs of modern economies
is challenging.
Nonetheless, talking about postmodern, internet-tied
tendencies, there are a series of business models that
give the Amazon a chance. These models are based
on small quantities of select products – products that
come with stories, which have to do with preservation,
with the indigenous world, and with nature. These
things add value to the products and services that
we can offer here in the Amazon. Twenty years ago, it
was impossible to export large quantities of things –
for example, 500 units of chocolate – or to think that

Rodrigo Cabrera

CHRONICLE / CRÓNICA

an indigenous group from the middle of the Brazilian
jungle could have a distribution chain that ends in New
York City. Today, that’s all become possible. We just
have to put proper value to the product so we can
justify the difficulty that comes with getting it out there.
Besides tourism and high-value business, what
is the certified wood market like?
Wood certification is still ways away from becoming a
global solution. And what we are dealing with here in
the Amazon is just that: small-scale solutions, when
what we need to be doing is coming up with big-scale
solutions.
In terms of wood certifications, the initial problem is
that only 5% of all the wood that comes from Peru
is actually certified. Further more, certified wood also
comes with an array of ecological problems that are
hard to solve – like with shihuahuaco, a huge tree that
can be found dispersed throughout the jungle. This
tree takes 20 years until its ready to harvest for wood,
but it takes at least 100 years until it’s fulfilled its ecological
role within the forest. One example is its relationship
with macaws. The shihuahauco tree houses
these birds in its trunk holes, which only form after
many years. These holes see hundreds of generations
of macaw nests, and some macaws only lay one egg
at a time, each of which already has a low survival
rate. So, considering all these factors, we have to see
what’s going to happen to the macaw population in
the next few years. And they’re only one of the many
species that depends on this tree.
You’ve previously mentioned that “the future will
bring successful tales of sustainability.”
Lets use “a connection to nature” instead. I’ll give you
a few small-scale examples. ORG by Vio, created by
Violeta Villacorta, is a high-fashion brand based on the
aesthetics, tradition, and production by various indigenous
communities. Pats, owned by Peruvian Gerry
Cooklin, makes wooden furniture and housewares
using every square inch of each tree that gets cut down
for production, so that nothing gets wasted, and thus,
the product has an added value. Dilwyn Jenkins, who
recently passed away, had spent the last 35 years
working with the Ashaninka native group in the central
jungle, packaging coffee and cacao that was then
sent to the UK to produce high-quality chocolates. He
worked to directly connect the Ashaninkas to the market,
rather than to work through brokers in hopes to
achieve a larger amount of product. This makes the
value of the product much greater. Everything is done
on a small scale; nonetheless everything has been
working for years and is demanding much thought in
today’s global situation.
Do these contemporary business models take
indigenous intellectual property into account?
Or do they use natives as marketing opportunities?
It’s not about having indigenous people participate
solely in the most basic part of the production chain.
Rather, it’s about having them participate in other, higher-up
aspects as well, like distribution.
The tours you offer include the exploration and
learning of nature, but the indigenous communities
located in the areas are not integrated into
the experiences you offer.
This is something very Peruvian. In Ecuador, for example,
there are various agencies that are run by indigenous
peoples, and they include cultural aspects within
their programs. The Achuares do this very successfully
in Kapawi, the Quechuas do this with Napo Wildlife
Center Lodge, and the Secoyas with Remolino…
I think that in Peru, we get so much more to work
with from nature – in terms of activities – than, say,
Ecuador. Jungle tourism in Peru offers more of an environmental
experience. Even if one goes to a Matsiguenga
community – like, Shipetiari – one has to focus
at least 50% of their time on nature alone, because it’s
spectacular.
When one thinks about business in the jungle,
are they looking at the Amazon specifically, or
are they trying to adapt production and extraction
models from the coast and mountains, to
the jungle?
The Amazon is just starting to be looked at for what
it is, but it’s still not enough. The idea is to start to
look at it from within. We need to start listening to the
people of the Amazon, and understanding what the
jungle is and how it functions. Certain things are being
done. The Amazonian Interregional Council (CIAM) is
supporting the departments of the Amazon presenting
unified platforms that work to adapt to the local
realities and to investment projects. Indigenous orga-
“IN TERMS
OF WOOD
CERTIFICATIONS,
THE INITIAL
PROBLEM IS THAT
ONLY A 5% OF ALL
THE WOOD THAT
COMES FROM
PERU IS ACTUALLY
CERTIFIED”
Previous page: An
example of being
in business with
nature: the Posada
Amazonas Lodge,
located within
the Tambopata
National Reserve.
/39

INTERVIEW
THE IDEA IS TO
START TO LOOK AT
IT FROM WITHIN.
WE NEED TO START
LISTENING TO THE
PEOPLE OF THE
AMAZON, AND
UNDERSTANDING
WHAT THE JUNGLE
IS AND HOW IT
FUNCTIONS
Agriculture, illegal
mining, and logging
are threatening the
jungle’s natural
protected areas.
nizations, like AIDESEP, have much more power today
than they did 20 years ago. If you look closely, there
are a lot of extraction projects that have been paralyzed
because of environmental concerns. It’s not true
that they aren’t heard; I would actually argue that it’s
quite the opposite. If you compare the political pull of
a person like myself with that of an indigenous person,
theirs is probably double mine. Is it enough? No. But
it’s more.
Are highways the solution?
Let me start my stating that everything is a big misunderstanding.
In Peru, 80% of the Amazonian deforestation
lies 20 kilometers from a highway. It is scientifically
proven. Like the laws of gravity. And although
this is an unchangeable fact, deforestation is not. In
places like California and Florida, you can drive down
highways that traverse through the heart of a national
park that remains perfectly conserved. How can we
change this Peruvian reality in order to build highways
that don’t lead to deforestation? Firstly, we can’t imagine
a future based on the past - based on how things
have been done previously. Peru’s future can be different.
So, what can be done?
We have to make sure that the government does
its job. It has to protect the land surrounding the
highways, and impede outside occupation. People
arrive to the jungle from all over the country, with all
kinds of ideas. There are those who are more reasonable,
and then those who think “God has given us
these thousands of hectares and we are going to fill
them with rice and maize.” These invaders arrive with
certificates from the Ministry of Agriculture. The certificates
are anachronistic; they come from a time when
the government was trying to promote migration into
the jungle. If you put in a highway, put a moratorium
against land-ownership certificated for the land surrounding
the highway. No one is going to go traipsing
into the jungle. People stay close to the highways.
Is the government taking illegal mining and logging
seriously?
There are three different problems. Illegal mining is
being taken seriously, but illegal logging isn’t. Its much
more complicated than mere deforestation, and much
more ecologically impactful. And the agricultural problem
is never taken seriously. If one had to rate the
three in terms of damage to the ecosystem, illegal
mining would be first, followed by agriculture, and
then logging. Looking at superficial damage, however,
Rodrigo Cabrera
agriculture comes first, then logging, and then mining.
And if they’re rated in terms of how easily they can
be solved, agriculture comes first, then logging, and
mining comes last, as it is the most difficult to resolve.
Is carbon offsetting an option?
In the case of carbon offsetting, I think that the ‘reforestation
credits’ require too much investment for
small amounts of land, and thus, they have little potential
for long-lasting, positive impact. What’s being
talked about now is basically the opposite: carbon
credits for avoiding deforestation. In this case, the focus
wouldn’t be on reforestation, it would be on conservation.
The problem is that it doesn’t factor into the
Kyoto Protocol, and so it’s harder to get politicians to
back it, and to get money for it.
Don’t you feel that the Amazon is often viewed in
a negative and problematic perspective, and it is
necessary to make an effort to show the success
stories instead?
Sometimes I feel that the environmentalists are spot
on in terms of recognizing and denouncing the pro-

lems that the jungles faces, but that they lack hope.
We often focus so much on the negative, that we forget
the positive. I, for one, am hopeful because I feel
that these are not unsolvable problems, and that not
everything humans do is negative. We are capable of
incredibly powerful actions. In Peru, for example, there
are two that come to mind: The Natural Protected
Area Law and the Indigenous Landownership Law. If
you compare a NPA with what happens outside of it,
the difference is abysmal. The deforestation within a
NPA is less than 1% - a number that the forest itself is
capable of recuperating. In the case of Manu National
Park, the maquisapa monkey and river otter populations
have grown 55% since Manu was declared a
national park. Within the indigenous territories, the situation
is similar. There is ten times less deforestation
in these areas than in the surrounding areas. Peru’s
current situation gives further proof. It’s surpassing the
international recommendations of how much territory
a mega-diverse country like itself should keep protected.
Many of the big issues that the world is beginning
to face – climate control, CO 2
absorption,
fresh-water reserves, genetic banks for new
medicine – they all involve the Amazon. Is Peru
conscious of the value its rainforest holds?
I don’t think Peru is conscious of this yet, and I don’t
even think that humankind is clear about the interconnectedness
between the Amazon and other, far-away
places. If there’s an impact here, it’s going to be felt in
the far corners of the world – the air, the climate, the
water. In order for Peru to have the power to negotiate,
the Amazon needs to be valued both internally and
externally.
What kinds of new tourism proposals are you
seeing in the rainforest?
Both Madre de Dios, with its lodges, and Loreto, with
its cruises, will continue to grow. They are both very
competitive destinations: they boast gorgeous forests
(less so in Loreto), they are both airport accessible,
and they are both high-quality products. They’re
going to raise the standards of jungle tourism. That’s
not to say that there aren’t other destinations that are
IN PERU,
80%
OF THE AMAZONIAN
DEFORESTATION LIES
20
kilometers
FROM A HIGHWAY. IT
IS SCIENTIFICALLY
PROVEN
/41

Chrisitian Declercq
INTERVIEW

Billinghurst Bridge, over the Madre de Dios River. It unites the Puente Inambari-Puerto Maldonado section of the southern Interoceanic Highway.
/43

45

CHRONICLE / CRÓNICA
BOTH MADRE DE
DIOS, WITH ITS
LODGES, AND
LORETO, WITH ITS
CRUISES, WILL
CONTINUE TO GROW.
THEY ARE BOTH
VERY COMPETITIVE
DESTINATIONS: THEY
BOAST GORGEOUS
FORESTS (LESS SO
IN LORETO), THEY
ARE BOTH AIRPORT
ACCESSIBLE, AND
THEY ARE BOTH
HIGH-QUALITY
PRODUCTS. THEY'RE
GOING TO RAISE
THE STANDARDS OF
JUNGLE TOURISM
Above: Tambopata
Research Center,
Rainforest Expeditions.
Below: Alto Purus National
Park as seen from above.
gaining popularity, like Tarapoto in the central jungle.
Manu isn’t quite there yet. The most interesting thing
the park has to offer are the ACCA biological stations
and the Matsiguenga lodges, the rest is a bit stuck.
What about the Interoceanic Highway that crosses
the jungle from the Pacific?
In terms of access, they’re great. Maybe something
will be established in the cloud forest between Cusco
and Puerto Maldonado, maybe in Iñapari, where there
are wonderfully conserved forests, and who knows if
the access to Manu will increase because of the Interoceanic
Highway. The South Interoceanic Highway’s
impact is hard to predict. But it’s going to cause trouble
if it leads to deforestation. Unless we learn to eliminate
the impact of the deforestation that comes as a
byproduct of highway building, the results for tourism
are always going to be negative.
What’s the next big thing in Amazonian tourism?
Previously remote areas are going to be made accessible
thanks to aviation - like the small planes that
are used for African safaris. And there are going to
be opportunities to experience radical and extreme
adventures.
Iñigo Maneiro
SPECIAL TAMBOPATA
PROGRAM
5D/4N
DAY 1
- Arrive at the Puerto Maldonado Airport, transfer to
the Tambopata port.
- Transfer on the Refugio Amazonas boat.
- Box-lunch.
- Dinner.
- Nighttime caiman searching.
DAY 2
- Breakfast.
- Visit to the canopy tower.
- Canoe or catamaran trip through the lake.
- Boat transfer to Tambopata Research Center.
- Box Lunch.
- Walk along the Tambopata River
- Dinner.
- Presentation about the Macaw Project.
- Overnight at the Tambopata Research Center.
DAY 3
- Excursion to the clay-lick.
- Breakfast.
- Walk through the flooded forest.
- Lunch.
- Visit to the Pond platform.
- Dinner.
- Night hike.
- Overnight at the Tambopata Research Center.
DAY 4
- Second excursion to the clay lick.
- Breakfast.
- Walk through the Terra Firme forest
- Lunch.
- Aguajal walk.
- Dinner.
- Overnight at the Tambopata Research Center.
DAY 5
- Breakfast.
- Boat transfer from the Tambopata Research Center
to the Tambopata Port.
- Transfer to the Puerto Maldonado Airport.
For more information contact: inbound@limatours.com.pe.

47

A JOURNEY THROUGH THE AMAZON
Delfin Amazon Cruises
THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE JUNGLE
DEPENDING ON WHAT ONE WANTS TO DISCOVER. SOME
TAKE THE URBAN ROUTE, OTHERS CHOOSE TO EXPLORE A
HIDDEN LODGE, AND THEN THERE ARE THOSE WHO SEARCH
OUT CONSTANT ADVENTURE. ON THIS TRIP, WE HAVE THE
PRIVILEGE OF BEING ROCKED TO SLEEP TO THE SOUNDS OF
THE JUNGLE AND AWAKENING TO THE SUNLIGHT BOUNCING
OFF THE STILL WATERS, AS WE EXPLORE THE AMAZON ON A
CRUISE SHIP.
By
Paola Miglio
They say that there is a jungle for everyone, and
a journey for every type of traveller. Amongst
the options, we find the Amazon cruises that
navigate the rivers for days, allowing for passengers
to discover some of the jungle’s best-kept
secrets. Some aim for luxury experiences, inviting
passengers to enjoy their surroundings in ultimate
splendor from the moment they set foot on the
vessel. Others are more specialized, leading groups
on bird watching and fauna observing tours. Depending
on what one decides, they can spend their
time swimming with dolphins, walking through the
canopies of the trees, investigating local species,
visiting a number of lagoons, fishing for piranha, or
just relaxing on the boat, enjoying the scenery. The
options are as varied as they are tempting.
THE RIVER DOLPHIN
The charm of the Delfin I – offering four rooms – and
its larger sibling the Delfin II – offering 12 rooms – is
that within the luxury, passengers are made to feel
at home. On this journey, we have the pleasure of
experiencing a voyage on the smaller, more intimate
Delfin. The decor is exquisite, with is warm, earthy
tones and wood. The rooms are ample and inviting,
and two of the four suites offer private verandas
and plunge-pools overlooking the river. The delicate,
gourmet meals are prepared daily, and incorporate
fresh, local Amazonian ingredients. If pas-
Luxury vessels for exploring the
Amazon River.

The Rivers of the Tropical Jungle
A Journey Through
the Amazon
/49

A JOURNEY THROUGH THE AMAZON
Delfin Amazon Cruises
THE EXCURSIONS
VARY DEPENDING
ON THE SEASON:
THE RAINY
SEASON IS FROM
DECEMBER TO
MARCH
sengers decide to go piranha fishing and make a
catch, they have the option of being served their fish
for dinner, cooked to golden perfection. The Delfin
I also boasts a open-air bar on its top floor, where
passengers can enjoy a refreshing beverage while
connecting to their surroundings. Due to its small
size, the ship offers personalized service.
Our journey begins at sunset as we depart from the
Nauta port towards the Pacaya Samiria National
Reserve. The adventures starts with an exploration
of Belluda Caño, where bromeliads, iguanas, parrots,
squirrel monkeys, and butterflies abound. We
then explore the Dorado River to look for dolphins,
followed by the Puinahua and Pacaya Rivers. We
boat around the Atun Poza Lake, stop for a visit to
the Puerto Miguel Community, go down the Yanapa
River, and finally arrive at the basin where the Amazon
River is born. The routes are subject to change
depending on the season.
LIFE IN THE AQUA
Aqua Expeditions has two ships: the Aria and the
Aqua. These luxury vessels are ample and modern,
offering journeys from four to seven days long.
There is a gourmet restaurant aboard the ship that
serves delicious food made with Amazonian ingredients,
as well as a small store where passengers
can buy amenities. The rooms are large and have
panoramic views of the river. The deck is a perfect
place to rest and reconnect with the surroundings.
Both ships have an out-door lounge, and the Aria, a
small gym. The journey is similar to that offered on
the Delfin I and II, and includes day-trips on smaller
boats, and jungle walks.
SCIENCE AND THE AMAZON ECO
The Amazon Eco is a different story. Rather than
luxury, this cruise ship focuses on specialized journeys
in a comfortable, remodeled vessel from the
days of the rubber-boom. Directed by Doctor Richard
Bodmer and his wife, Tula Fang – who also
own the Casa Morey in Iquitos – the Amazon Eco
offers adventures for passengers who want to immerse
themselves in nature and research. Some are
volunteers with Earthwatch, others are students,
and then there are those who are driven by personal
interest. The Amazon Eco collaborates with the
Durrell Institute of Conservation and Ecology (DICE),
the Operation Wallacea (OpWall), and the British
Schools Exploring Society (BSES).
THE ESTRELLA AMAZÓNICA
This luxury ship is the newest of its kind. Offering
ample, premium rooms with elegant details, and private
balconies that overlook the river, this 31-per-
Delfin Amazon Cruises
Marina García Burgos
Above: The cruise
ships are primarily
decorated with
wood in warm
colors.
Left: The cruise
invites guests
to enjoy boating
excursions through
rivers, and hiking
excursions through
the jungle.
Right: Aqua
Expeditions Cruise
ship.

Marina García Burgos
Their services allow for guests to relax and enjoy being submerged in nature.
DELFiN I Y II
Reservations: 065-262-721 / Lima: 719-0998 and
719-0999. Tours: Four days and three nights. Web:
www.delfinamazoncruises.com.
AQUA EXPEDITIONS
Reservations: 065-601-053 and 065-255-082. Tours:
Three or more nights. Web: www.aquaexpeditions.com.
AMAZON ECO
Reservations: 065-231-913. 200 Loreto Street, plaza
Ramón Castilla, Iquitos. The length of tours depends on
one’s selected route. Web: www.amazoneco.com.
THE ESTRELLA AMAZÓNICA
Contact: inbound@limatours.com.pe.
Delfin Amazon Cruises
/51

A JOURNEY THROUGH THE AMAZON
IF PINK DOLPHINS
ARE SPOTTED
DURING THE
JOURNEY, GUESTS
CAN REQUEST TO
HOP IN THE WATER
AND SWIM WITH
THEM. ASK THE
STAFF
son vessel makes journeying through the Amazon
a one-of-a-kind experience. The dining room, salons,
and observatory lounge all share the same
simple, elegant decor and warm tones. The meals
served on board are prepared with local ingredients,
and focus on recreating Amazonian cuisine
with a gourmet twist. Excursions are generally seven
days and seven nights long, but can be extended
if so desired.
International Expeditions
Above: The Estrella
Amazónica.
Right: The Delfin’s
conference room.
Next Page: The rooms
aboard the Delfin
are ample and offer
panoramic river views.
AMAZON CRUISE PROGRAM 5D/4N
DAY 1
Delfin Amazon Cruises
• Arrive at the Iquitos Airport.
• Transfer to the Nauta Port, where you will
board the cruise ship.
• Pink dolphin searching excursion.
• Dinner and meet the ship’s captain.
DAY 3
• Breakfast.
• Explore Atun Poza Lagoon – located
in the Pacaya Samiria National
Reserve – by boat.
• Boat trip down the Pacaya River.
• Dinner and rest.
DAY 5
• Breakfast, followed by a trip down the Yarapa
River – one of the Amazon tributaries.
• Visit to the Puerto Miguel Amazon Community.
• Disembark in Nauta and visit the Manatee
Rescue Center.
• Transfer to the Iquitos Airport.
DAY 2
• Breakfast and visit to the Yanallpa Private
Reserve.
• Excursion to Belluda Caño within the
Pacaya Samiria National Reserve.
• Walk though the rainforest and return to
the ship for lunch.
• Navigate the Dorado River.
• Dinner and rest.
DAY 4
• Breakfast, followed by fishing in
Lake Caro Curahuayte.
• Lunch, followed by a visit to the
Yarallpa Private Reserve.
• Farewell dinner.
For more information contact:
inbound@limatours.com.pe.

Delfin Amazon Cruises
/53

55

CACAO PRIDE
CACAO PRIDE
Touring the Cacao Trail in San Martin

OUR JOURNEY THROUGH SAN MARTIN, A RE-
DISCOVERED AREA OF PERU THAT IS ENJOYING
ITS NEWFOUND POPULARITY THANKS TO
THE AGRICULTURAL RECOVERY OF A GLOBAL
FAVORITE: CACAO.
By
Paola Miglio
Photos
Christian Declercq
The road has been difficult. The journey, intense.
Cacao spent many years as an overlooked,
secondary crop in the Peruvian
jungle – nearly invisible. The local varieties would
have been lost beneath the economic and social
strife that overtook this area of the country (armed
militia and drug-trafficking) if it weren’t for
the international involvement and pacification
process that began some years ago. Many of the
region’s farmers have now traded in their coca
plants for cacao. Today, the people and energy
of the San Martin region are tranquil. The faces
of the farmers reveal satisfied smiles. They have
overcome chaos, anguish, and fear, and now revel
in the success of their products throughout
Peru and the world.
We are going to traverse eight projects in three
days, across the San Martin region. Tarapoto will
be our base. The geography is not easy. Luckily,
the highways are in better condition than ever
before, and the scenery is stunning – painted a
million shades of green. We are accompanied by
a local guide who will take us through the area.
Travelling with a local is the best way to avoid
mishaps, as we are in the jungle, and the jungle
has its ways.
1. STRAIGHT TO JUANJUI
After driving three hours from Tarapoto, we arrive
in Juanjui, where we are greeted by the members
of the Cacaotera-Acopagro Agrarian Co-op, and
750 farmers from central Huallaga (Juanjui, Sa-
Drying cacao on the Huallaga Riverbank.
/57

CACAO PRIDE
loreto
rioja
moyobamba
Area: 1,791.2 ha
Cacao-farmers: 1,177
amazonas
Area: 1,024.8 ha
Cacao-farmers: 624
lamas
LAMAS
el dorado
TARAPOTO
Area: 2,404.1 ha
Cacao-farmers: 1,199
huallaga
PUCACACA
Area: 6,132.8 ha
JUANJUI
Cacao-farmers: 2,851
PAJARILLO
san martin
CHAZUTA
Area: 404.8 ha
Cacao-farmers: 329
PICOTA
Area: 2,653.6 ha
Cacao-farmers: 1,721
mariscal caceres
Area: 1,425.8 ha
Cacao-farmers: 912
bellavista
la libertad
tocache
Area: 8,304 ha
Cacao-farmers: 3,721
huanuco
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Source: Technoserve
posoa, Bellavista, Picota). They work with the cacao
clone CCN-51 - due to its heightened productivity, as
well as Trinitario clones, and the Amazonian Forastero
variety, all of which come together to produce the
cacao that they then sell to the world. The Co-op has
its laboratory and headquarters in Juanjui, and from
there, they offer consultancy, credit, and social support
to their farmers. Many wonder why the CCN-51
is used, since it can ruin plantations, contaminate
local cacao varieties, and compromise biodiversity.
However, it is important to understand that CCN-
51 helped many of these farmers and their families
re-establish peace in a time when the region was
overcome by terrorism and drug trafficking. Thanks
to the CCN-51 clone, these farmers were able to replace
their coca-plant crops without suffering from
grave economic blows. Now that the chaos has subsided,
farmers can make room for native varieties
and bring Amazonian cacao back into the limelight.
2. BENEATH THE BANANA PLANTATION
Our journey continues to Pajarillo where we will visit
the clone gardens of port Tarata - but first we must
cross the Huallaga River. We get out of the car and
watch as the other cars pull onto the ferry, between
the food vendors. It’s midday and the heat is unbearable,
but our appetite for adventure keeps us going.
After nearly two hours of transit, we arrive at an immense
banana plantation, where the tall bellaco banana
trees will provide shade for future cacao plants.
Here, farmers work with associated and integrated
crops in order to generate more benefits, and then

ALONG THE WAY, THERE
ARE OTHER CACAO
PLANTATIONS TO VISIT,
AND OTHER TOWNS THAT
PRODUCE AND SELL
CACAO PRODUCTS. SAN
MARTIN IS EXPERIENCING
A RENAISSANCE THANKS
TO ITS STAR PRODUCT.
The cacao process–
from its extraction to
its final product.
they pool together the fruit from their individual plots
in order to yield a greater volume. The neighboring
orange trees help us fight the heat – providing a cool
breeze and fresh juice – as we admire the drive of
working locals.
3. CHOCOLATE IN PUCACACA
Our first day is a long one. If you follow our path, we
recommend lots of patience. One can also break the
trip up and stop in any of the various cacao plantations
along the way. We’ve traveled all day, and
as night falls, we arrive at our final destination: the
town of Pucacaca – a 40-minute drive from Tarapoto.
Pucacaca is one of the places where raw cacao
comes to be transformed, and is also the location of
the Makao Peru headquarters. This company works to
/59

CACAO PRIDE
Orquidea Chocolates:
one of the best-known
chocolate brands from
San Martin.
help low-income farming towns by purchasing organic
cacao directly from the farmers, and hiring people from
the communities to work in their small, well-equipped
factory. Makao produces chocolates of different percentages
(60%, 70%) and a variety of types, including:
chocolate with nibs, aji charapita, pecans, macambo,
and milk chocolate, among others.
4. DON MARCELINO
Day two brings a new journey. After driving for an
hour and a half from Tarapoto, we arrive in Morillo (in
the Chazuta district), where Marcelino Zumba owns a
plot of land. Marcelino is part of San Martin’s government
project, Proyecto Cacao. He has been working
with cacao for seven years, and has been using TAPS
fertilizer and synchronized pruning techniques since
2012, which he learned from cacao producer Edil
Sandoval Arevalo. Marcelino’s plot has everything:
ICS-95, hybrids, CCN-51, and a few native cacao
species that he treasures. This plot is an example of
the project that gives farmers guidance in fertilizers
and pruning, plague management, and crop health,
to promote better production. (Marcelino’s production
has increased 50% since 2012.)
5. THE JOY OF CHAZUTA
In the district of Chazuta, cacao production has improved
lives, including those of the women that make
up the Cacaotera Mishky Cacao Association, who
have developed a small factory where they produce
chocolate and cacao products. These 13 mothers
came together in 2003, after deciding to forgo coca
leaf cultivation and dedicate their time to cacao. Upon
our arrival, they welcome us singing songs they’ve
written in celebration of the cacao plant. Then, they
show us their work. Their products have gained national
and international recognition: the association
was just awarded a prize from the International Chocolate
Awards, and recognition from Paris’ Chocolate
Salon (France). The women are peaceful, confident,
and sweet. Their sweetness is reflected in each of
their products: marmalades, chocolate paste, chocolate
tablets of varying intensities, milk chocolate,
white chocolate, and macambo-fruit chocolate.
6. COFFEE AND CACAO IN LAMAS
We spend our last day in Lamas, a peculiar town famous
for its traditional garments and dances, and for
the giant, stone castle that sits overlooking the community.
Here, we find the Oro Verde Co-op, one of
the biggest and most developed organizations in the
area that makes cacao and coffee products for export.
Initially founded by 56 families, Oro Verde aims
to bring together small producers who are interested
in participating in fair-trade and organically certified
farming. The Co-op is currently made up by 1,200 families
– 70% of who are Chanca Lamistas, and 30%
of who have immigrated from Northern Peru. In addi-
THEIR PRODUCTS HAVE
GAINED NATIONAL
AND INTERNATIONAL
RECOGNITION: THE
ASSOCIATION WAS
JUST AWARDED A
PRIZE FROM THE
INTERNATIONAL
CHOCOLATE AWARDS,
AND RECOGNITION
FROM PARIS’
CHOCOLATE SALON
(FRANCE). THE WOMEN
ARE PEACEFUL,
CONFIDENT, AND SWEET.
THEIR SWEETNESS IS
REFLECTED IN EACH OF
THEIR PRODUCTS

tion to selling and exporting, Oro Verde also offers a
variety of products on site, including: organic coffee,
pure chocolate, honey, and an amazing, native, 72%
chocolate, produced by the Amazona brand, aptly
named Valle del Chanka.
7. LA ORQUÍDEA
Our next stop is at Mayo industries, where some of
San Martin’s most famous chocolate is made: Orquidea.
Mayo works with native communities and
has brought together small-time farmers interested
in cacao as a way of life. Their processing plant uses
advanced technology to make an assortment of different
types of chocolates: dark, pecan, kiwicha, coconut,
and milk – to name a few, as well as a line of
organic chocolates.
8. EXOTIC
The last stop on our cacao journey is Exotic, located
in Tarapoto’s main plaza. This small store, run
by Claudia Vásquez, sells gourmet sweets made
with chocolate from Chazuta. Aside from the variety
of well-made dark, milk, and fruit chocolates, Exotic
sells truffles with interesting fillings, like aji and lemon
– both of which amaze the palate in their own, unique
ways. We could not have asked for a better ending
to our journey.
The Orquidea Chocolate
plant in Tarapoto.
/61

63

NUEVAS MIRADAS
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For more infomation about how our collection of specialised travel
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PureQuest.com or email at info@PureQuest.com
ACTIVITY LEVEL
DAY 1 - ZAGREB
- Hands-on culinary course
DAY 2 - ZAGREB / ZAGORJE
- Fish & food market guided tour
- Štrukli cooking & wine tasting
- Hike through the Zagorje hills
- Traditional Zagorje village meal
DAY 3 - GORSKI KOTAR
- Hands-on foraging tips in Gorski
Kotar
- Tree planting
- Cycling through local villages
- Cooking demonstration of local
surprise specialties
DAY 4 - UČKA
- 2 hour hike of the Učka Nature Park
- ATV tour and wine-tasting in Istria
DAY 5 - OPATIJA
- Exploring Veliki Brijun Island by bike
- Cooking class in Opatija
DAY 6 - PAKLENICA
- Hiking, Paklenica National Park
- Visit Nin Saltworks Park
DAY 7 - ZADAR
- Prosciutto sampling
- Biking through the National Park Krka
DAY 8 - SPLIT
- Split gastro tour
- Pelješac wine & oyster tastings
DAY 9 - DUBROVNIK
- Sea kayaking along the Adriatic coast
- Cooking class & dinner, Konavle
ACTIVITY LEVEL
ALTITUDE:
max 3200 metres
Explore China’s icons, and yet to be
discovered treasures. Learn traditional Chinese
skills and gain new photography expertise!
China Multi-Sport
from the Great Wall to the Tiger Leaping Gorge
DAY 1 - BEIJING
- Visit Chinese Imperial Palace
- Visit the Hutongs
- Visit local family to learn kite-making
DAY 2 - GREAT WALL
- Hike the Mutianyu section
- Visit the Summer Palace
DAY 3 - XI´AN
- Visit the Terracotta Warriors
- Bike the Xi’an City Wall
- Visit Muslim Quarter
- Dumpling banquet
DAY 4 - JIUZHAIGOU
- Visit a Tibetan family for dinner
DAY 5 - JIUZHAIGOU
- Hike Jiuzhaigou National Park
- Small workshop on landscape
photography
- Visit Tibetan museum
DAY 6 - SONGPAN
- Horseback ride through
Songpan countryside
DAY 7 - CHENGDU
- Visit a local park to sample a
typical Chengdu weekend
- Watch a Sichuan Opera
DAY 8 - CHENGDU
- Volunteer at the Panda
Breeding Centre
- Visit Leshan Mountain
- Walk Jinli Street for a night
photography seminar
DAY 9 - LIJIANG
- Early morning Taichi practice
DAY 10/11
- TIGER LEAPING GORGE TREK
DAY 12 - SHAXI
- Visit Shaxi Ancient Town
- Visit Shibaoshan Grottoes
DAY 13 - DALI
- Visit local Dali villages
- Tour the lakeside by bike

CHINA
Fan Na // (+86) 10 8519 8851
fanna@purequest.com
CROATIA
Mirela // (+385) 1 4920 678
croatiasales@purequest.com
INDIA
Lokesh // (+91) 11 4279 5259
lokesh@purequest.com
PERU
Diego // (+51) 1 61 96 920
diego@purequest.com
/65

THE HUMAN JUNGLE
Heinz Plenge Pardo
OVER THOUSANDS OF YEARS, THE
PEOPLE OF THE AMAZON HAVE
ADAPTED TO ONE OF THE MOST
COMPLEX ECOSYSTEMS ON THE
PLANET. THIS LIVING AREA IS A FOCAL
POINT OF SOME OF HUMANKIND'S
MOST PRESSING ISSUES.
Text and photos by
Iñigo Maneiro
From an aerial perspective, the
Amazon looks like a green sea
littered with winding rivers of differing
widths. Occasionally a small village
appears, most of which is built with
locally sourced materials: palm fronds,
wood, roots and vines. Thin paths zigzag
through the village, connecting
houses and marking the way to fields
where things are grown, or trails that
lead to hunting and gathering grounds.
These communities are generally located
near rivers and ravines that facilitate
movement and allow for easy access
to water. From above everything
appears to be homogeneous. A uniformed
landscape in which only the enormous
Lupuna trees stand out.
The land, however, is not at all as unvarying
as it appears. The flora is lush
and diverse, formed by a wide variety
of species - unlike temperate forests,
which are much more uniformed.
Thus, plants must take advantage of
the limited resources that the jungle
provides. The diverse plants use their
individual root systems to extend to different
layers of the earth and absorb
the nutrients. Most have wide leaves
to better capture the limited amount of
An Aguaruna from the Chipe
community - Bagua.

The Human Jungle
Native Communities of the Amazon
/67

THE HUMAN JUNGLE
THE DIVISION
OF POWER IS
COMPLEX. THE
CHANNELS OF
REPRESENTATION
ARE NOT LIMITED
TO THE CHIEF OR
PRESIDENT OF THE
COMMUNITY
Above, right: Yine
Diamante Community
Comunal Amarakaeri
Reserve.
Above, left: Fishing
net used by the Isla de
los Valles community-
Manu National Park.
Below: Woman from
the Nomatsiguenga
community in Satipo.
sunlight that trickles in through the trees, and many
of them have straight, long trunks that take them as
close to the canopy as possible.
FAMILIES AND COMMUNITIES
Over thousands of years of living within this ecosystem,
Amazonian natives have learned to adapt to it.
They have discovered which plants to eat, and which
to use for medicine; they have grown to understand
the behaviors of different animals – how to hunt
them, and how to fish them; they have developed the
wisdom to gather the fruits, insects, and mushrooms
that form part of their daily diets. Amazonian communities
can identify over two thousand plant species
– many of which are still unknown in Western society,
and others that are used worldwide for both nutritional
and medicinal purposes.
Traditionally, individual family settlements are dispersed
throughout the community’s general area. This
way, the communities attempt to minimize their impact
on their surroundings, and help ensure enough
resources for all members of the populace. The dispersion
also makes for better sanitary conditions and
guarantees each family enough land to provide for
all their needs: building materials, medicinal plants,
land for crops and animals, hunting zones, access
to water, etc.
Within the family construct, there are strongly assigned
gender roles. The men hunt, clear and prepare
the land for planting, fish, gather food and firewood,
and raise their sons. Meanwhile, the women oversee
all domestic work, they educate their daughters,
work in the gardens, manage the medicinal plants,
and fish, gather, and raise the animals.
Most Amazonian tribes – like the Jíbaros – are patrilocal.
This means that when a young couple is wed,
they move into the bride’s parent’s house for the first
few years of their union, usually until their children
are already a few years old. Once they establish their
own nuclear family, they move out onto a new plot
of land, where they build their house and plant their
own crops.
POWER
Through the religious missions, and with the introduction
of Juan Velasco Alvarado’s Native Community
Law of 1974, the Amazonian communities were
given the rights to the occupation of their land in the
Peruvian Amazon. With help from these religious missionaries,
communities started establishing their first

Madre de Dios as seen from the Shintuya community.
medical centers and schools. All of a sudden, the
dispersed local families began to settle around these
establishments – sometimes against their will. The
law of 1974 created the concept of legal recognition
of indigenous territories in Peru - establishing territorial
limits, formalizing land ownership, and bestowing
titles of propriety.
Upon being given ownership titles, the indigenous
communities developed more organized and defined
political and societal structures, with the objective of
defending their territory. Thus, certain members of
the community were appointed as chiefs, leaders,
and/or authorities.
Left:
Asháninkas
from the
Pakirentsa
community Alto
Purús National
Park.
Right: wood-fire
cooking in the
Cashinahua
Grau
community
- Alto Purús
National Park.
Within each community, there are different types of
authority. Generally, the directing board is composed
of a community president and his staff. Different tribes
that share commonalities – be it a river, an ethnicity,
or a territory – are then represented by their
respective presidents in a larger organization. These
organizations, in turn, come together to form part of
national organizations, like the Interracial Association
for Development in the Peruvian Jungle (Aidesep)
and the Confederation of Amazonian Nationalities of
Peru (Conap). These organizations represent almost
Peque-peque canoe navigating the Purús River - Alto Purús National Park.
/69

THE HUMAN JUNGLE
Right: Yine hunter – Manu
National Park.
Next page: Cashinahua in
Puerto Esperanza - Alto
Purús National Park.
Above, right: Petroglyph
in Satipo.
all of the 48 registered indigenous villages in the
Peruvian jungle. In addition, they form part of bigger
associations that deal with all countries sharing
the Amazon, like the Indigenous Organizations
of the Amazon Basin (Coica).
The division of power is complex. The channels of
representation are not limited to the chief or president
of the community. Natural born leaders, elders,
professors, medical workers, and shamans are all
hugely influential in these populations, and are important
players in negotiations and community politics.
Now more than ever, Amazonian populations are
facing a series of challenges stirring their lives and
the future of their people. The increase in population
is affecting the available food sources; precarious
health and education structures are clashing
with ecological and cultural realities; the influx of
Andean migrants has created territorial conflicts;
the construction of highways, the aggressive cattle-breeding
and hydrocarbon industries are all damaging
the environment. In addition, illegal mining,
drug trafficking, and deforestation are creating
social crisis, exploitation, and profound ecological
damage that in turn, affect the forests and rivers
that these populations depend on.
Then, there are the ‘un-contacted’ indigenous populations
that escaped to the most inaccessible
areas of the jungle during the rubber-boom of the
XIX and XX Centuries. These nomadic groups generally
inhabit the departments of Madre de Dios and
Ucayali, dedicating their time to hunting, fishing,
and gathering. Despite having protected land reservations
made available to them by the State, these
populations continue to suffer from religious missionary
pressure, and territorial invasion by loggers.
MYTHOLOGY, WORD-VIEW, AND SHAMANISM
The myths of the Amazon reflect one of the most
curious aspects of the Amazonian worldview. Unlike
the Western frame of mind, the people of the
Amazon often personify a wide variety of beings
and places – like plants, animals, caves, and waterfalls
– showing that humanity is not exclusively
human. The jungle is full of life, and this life takes
a variety of different forms. These myths also
function as a way of explaining and passing on the
knowledge people need to survive in the jungle. In
the original version of the Jempe myth, for example,
different tree types are explained and graded
on their firewood quality. The detailed characteristics
and behaviors of the various plant and animal
species are also described in the story, presumably
to be used as references for future generations.
This animistic worldview is shared by all of Peru’s
indigenous groups. Beyond just hunting, fishing,
farming, and gathering, the people of the jungle
understand and live with the spirit world, negotiating
with these spirits in hopes to be successful
in all areas of life. When a harakmbut goes out to
fish, he sings ancient songs – icaros – to flirt with
the mother of the animals and ask her permission to

MYTHOLOGY,
WORLD-VIEW, AND
SHAMANISM
In ancient times, the Shuar had no
knowledge of fire. They spent their
days cold, and would die from starvation.
Fire was jealously kept from
them by the Taketek, who did not
want to share it. One day, Jempe,
the hummingbird, took pity upon
the Shuar and approached the entrance
of the cave where the Taketek
lived, pretending to be dead.
The Taketek picked him up and set
him next to the fire. They observed
the hummingbird’s beautiful colors
– which grew increasingly more
beautiful as the heat began to dry
the bird. Jempe smoothed-down his
feathers with his beak and when the
Taketek weren’t looking, he flew up
and fluttered above the fire, lighting
his tail. Jempe quickly flew out of
the cave and as he fluttered through
the forest, he lit the old trunks aflame.
From that day on, the Shuar
were never cold, nor did they die
from starvation, and Jempe’s tail remained
split down the middle. (The
Shuar myth)
/71

This knowledge is often passed from parents to children
through long conversations as the sun rises,
or during walks through the jungle. The child learns
about morals and relationships, about the characteristics
of the plants and the animals, and about how
to build, fish, hunt, and gather.
THEIR WAY OF
SEEING THE WORLD
– HUMANIZING ALL
ASPECTS OF IT –
INVITES A MORE
SUSTAINABLE
WAY OF LIVING.
NATURE IS USED
FOR CULTURE, BUT
IS CONSIDERED
EQUALLY AS
IMPORTANT
hunt. When an aguaruna sings an anem to the mother
of the land, he is asking her to help his crops grow
strong and healthy. When a wachiperi sings the eshuwa
healing song, he is pleading with the spirits to
release the patient from their sickness. Within these
constructs, the shaman is considered the authority of
the spirit world, and allies with it for his work.
This way of viewing and relating to the world is hugely
important, allowing the indigenous people of the
jungle to exist in and manage an ecosystem that is
increasingly at risk, due to aggressive external practices
that are rapidly destroying forests and compromising
the quality of the water. In addition, it allows
for the preservation of essential knowledge regarding
plants, tree-saps, fibers, and a variety of products
that have proven to be useful for the entire world. The
people of the Amazon are the guardians of the area
that provides some of the biggest fresh-water sources,
that helps regulate the worlds temperatures, and
that absorbs the majority of the CO2 that otherwise
contributes to the destruction of the ozone.
Their way of seeing the world – humanizing all aspects
of it – invites a more sustainable way of living.
Nature is used for culture, but is considered equally
as important. Plants and animals are negotiated
with, spoken to, shared with, and sung to – they are
given importance and are respected, because at the
end of the day they are all people.
Above: Purús River as
seen from an airplane-
Alto Purús National Park.
Below: A Matsiguenga
healer in the Shepitiari
community – Manu
National Park.

73

75

AMAZONIAN ART
THE YEAR 2042 WILL MARK
THE 500-YEAR ANNIVERSARY
OF THE “DISCOVERY” OF THE
AMAZON RIVER BY FRANCISCO
DE ORELLANA AND HIS FELLOW
EXPLORERS. IT ALSO MARKS THE
DAY THAT SAW THE BEGINNING OF
A HUGE ARTISTIC PRODUCTION,
WHICH – OVER THE YEARS – HAS
HELPED US UNDERSTAND THE
COMPLEX SOCIAL PROCESSES
THAT HAVE PIERCED AMAZONIAN
SOCIETY. RELIGIOUS MISSIONARIES,
THE RUBBER BOOM, MODERNISM,
AND CONTEMPORARY LIFE ARE
CLEARLY DEPICTED ON THE CANVAS
– MODIFIED TIME AND AGAIN, AS
THESE ARTISTS TELL THE STORIES
OF THEIR LAND, NARRATING,
SHARING, AND DENOUNCING THEIR
HISTORY AND THEIR REALITIES.
By
Diego Oliver
Thanks to:
Christian Bendayán.
Alfredo Villar.
Elena Valera -
Facebook: https://www.
facebook.com/elena.
valeravasquez.92.
Juan Vásquez Amaringo -
Facebook:
“PABLO C. AMARINGOˮ
High Art Gallery & “USKO-
AYARˮ Amazonian School
of Painting.
Next Page:
Woman with a macaw and
orchids - César Calvo de
Araujo (1960).
Amazonian
Art
From missions to the urban jungle
Forty-one year old Christian Bendayán is one of the most influential painters from the Loreto
region, and perhaps the biggest current promoter of Amazonian art. Born in Iquitos,
he spent most of his life in the jungle city, but now resides in the country’s capital, Lima.
Bendayán’s work marks a shift in the representation of the Amazon from a more traditional
conglomeration of tribes, rivers, plants, and wild animals, to its modern reality as a concrete
island located in the middle of the jungle with all the chaos and social crisis one would expect
from an third-world metropolis. “I think that Amazonian painting today looks to expose
aspects of history that have been swept under the rug,” Bendayán says. The sunlight coming
through the window illuminates him as he sits in front of a drawing table. Behind him, there’s a
large, unfinished canvas with three seductive, bikini-clad women painted on it – an image that
wouldn’t have been accepted centuries ago.
The Peruvian Amazon has been populated for millions of years. The Kotosh were the first recorded
civilization, dating back to two million years BC. Hundreds of years later - around XIII
AD - Peru witnessed the existence of the Chachapoyas, who populated the Amazon’s high
and lowlands, leaving few archaeological traces. Today’s larger urban conglomerations are
generally located in the lowlands, where Spanish explorers and religious missionaries arrived
during colonization. Upon their arrival, the Spanish began trying to justify the unknown and misunderstood
using Western mythology –actually naming the Amazon after the Greek myth of
the Amazons – rather than attempting to understand the complex reality of the native peoples.
There are few visual records that depict the attempts of the Dominican Missionaries to convert
the natives. Francisco de Requena, who journeyed to establish the limits between Peru and
Brazil from 1779 to 1795, painted some of the best representations of the original interactions
with the ‘new world’. De Requena made beautiful watercolors showcasing the amazing landscapes
of the territory he was overseeing.
Almost a century later, when Peru was already recognized as an independent republic, numerous
scientists made their way over with expert recording artists, and together, they made
a hugely valuable registry of the Amazon’s environment. Among the scientists were Italy’s
Antonio Raimondi, Germany’s Alexander von Humboldt, and Austrian Charles Wiener. Shortly
after, in 1860, the Peruvian government made Iquitos the strategic port-town of the northern
Amazon, triggering perhaps the most tragic period in Amazon history.
The government saw the Amazon as an uninhabited territory. Natives were virtually invisible.
The jungle was a virgin area full of natural resources that were ready to be harvested for
the benefit of adventurous businessmen. All of a sudden, European families began to arrive
and settle in what is now known as Iquitos. And so began the rubber boom. In that time,

77

LA RUTA DEL BARROCO
AMERICO PINASCO, FOR
EXAMPLE, AFTER TRAINING IN THE
EUROPEAN SCHOOL, BECAME THE
FIRST PAINTER TO INCORPORATE
IMAGES OF NATIVES INTO HIS
PAINTINGS. THIS EVOLUTION
– ASIDE FROM BEING WELL
RECEIVED IN GALLERIES ABROAD
– BEGAN TO ALTER WESTERN
PERCEPTION OF THE AMAZON
Above: Iquitos’ Port - Otto Michael
(1898).
Below: Raudal Mirí in the Yapurá
River - Francisco Requena (1788).
the entire economy of the Iquitos was based
on the extraction and sales of rubber.
The demand was huge, and to supply the
need, hundreds of natives were enslaved
on their own land to harvest the tree sap.
“Nonetheless,” adds Bendayán, “rubber,
with all the barbarities that it brought, also
brought people who were interested in
creating cultural spaces, like the Alhambra
Theatre. Werner Herzog’s Fitzcarraldo
character is not that far off from the actual
immigrants who lived in Iquitos and dreamt
of turning the city into a cultural metropolis
- trumping even Brazil’s Manaus. But
with the fall of the rubber-based economy,
those dreams disappeared forever.”
The presence of the European immigrants
also brought with it new styles of formal
painting, and thus the foundations of a
modern artistic school of thought were
laid. Through this, artistic production of
the time – which was mainly landscape
oriented – transformed the tropical jungle
into almost European scenery. This was
the case for painters like Otto Michael, the
Victoria sisters (1900), Emilia Barcia Boniffatti
(1904-1986), and Américo Pinasco
(1906-1991). During this artistic stage,
formal painting excluded the presence of
natives, fauna, and flora, completely ignoring
– if not rejecting – environmental and
native cultural surroundings.
Soon enough, however, the 40’s arrived,
and with them, an unexpected twist in the
art world, as traditional European schools
of painting made room for modernism.
This shift marked a new focus for painters
like Américo Pinasco, Víctor Morey
Peña (1900-1965), César Calvo de Araujo
(1914-1970), among others. Pinasco,
for example, after training in the European
school, became the first painter to incorporate
images of natives into his paintings.
This evolution – aside from being well received
in galleries abroad – began to alter
Western perception of the Amazon.
“Artists developed an interpretation of
the light and shadow of the region. They
begin to use greens and violets, and in
Calvo and Pinasco’s cases, they incorporate
pinks and melon-tones for the skies.
Calvo had very truthful depictions of the
river currents, of how the waters of the
Amazon move - that they have a particular
swell; and he generated new ways
to construct the skies and atmospheres,”
explains Bendayán.
With the help and participation of these
artists, the Regional School of Fine Arts
was founded in 1960. Morey Peña was
appointed as director, and art deco and art
nouveau were established as the most representative
movements for the region. In
1965, however, Morey Peña was killed in

a tragic accident, and painter Ángel Chávez took his
place. Chávez arrived in the jungle from Trujillo, and
was already very well known for his innovative, defined
style. He generated much enthusiasm from his
students, putting together a team of artists – including
Nancy Dantas, Samuel Coriat and Fernando Rios -
who still to this day continue to produce strong work.
Nonetheless, the most interesting turn of events
came when members of the Iquitos School discovered
the Ucayali School of painting, which included
Hildebrando “Yando” Ríos (1940), Eduardo Meza Saravia
(1928-2001) y Pablo Amaringo (1938-2009). All
three men were sons of shamans, who worked with
the native hallucinogenic root – ayahuasca, and thus
the Ucayali school freely incorporated the Amazonian
spirit world into its paintings.
Yando Ríos introduced a unique depiction of the
darkness of the jungle, while Eduardo Meza Saravia
developed his own, psychedelic style, influenced
by witchcraft, the mythical world of the Amazon,
and Shipibo traditions. The most influential artist
of the school, however, was Pablo Amaringo, who
not only came from a family of shamans, but was
also one himself. Amaringo’s paintings showed different
worlds that he had encountered through his
ayahuasca journeys, making his art a sort of registry
of visions and meetings with divine entities.
ber of important institutions began to acquire his
work, and with the earnings, Amaringo established
his own school of painting called Usco Ayar. Hundreds
of students came through the school free of
cost to learn from Amaringo, and his style still remains
relevant in Amazonian art today.
The 90’s saw another interesting artistic evolutionary
moment, when paintings began to depict the Amazon
as an urban environment, rather than an exotic,
isolated place. Bendayán – probably the most important
painter from this new style – not only encourages
people to see the jungle in a different way through his
paintings, but has also paved the way for self-taught
street artists, inspiring them to give their work more
importance. These painters, previously hired by businesses
– like hair salons, barber shops, and small
grocery stores – to paint decorative murals, are now
making their art on canvases and taking them to galleries.
Some of these artists include: Julio Walter Guevara
Piero, Luis “LU.CU.MA” Cueva Manchego, Luis Zaquiray,
Miguel Saavedra, and José Asunción Araujo.
AMARINGO’S PAINTINGS
SHOWED DIFFERENT
WORLDS THAT HE HAD
ENCOUNTERED THROUGH
HIS AYAHUASCA JOURNEYS,
MAKING HIS ART A SORT OF
REGISTRY OF VISIONS AND
MEETINGS WITH DIVINE
ENTITIES
Above: Butterflies - Elena
Valera “Bahuan Jisbe” (2008).
Painter and needlewoman.
Uses the traditional Shipiboconibo
designs – or kene – to
incorporate the flora, fauna,
daily life, and customs of her
village.
Below: View of the San Joaquín
de Omaguas Village, Loreto -
Francisco Requena.
Next Page: Deep mysteries -
Pablo Amaringo (2002).
Amaringo’s work got the most attention after being
globally circulated in a book he published with Colombian
anthropologist Jose Eduardo Luna in 1991,
called Ayahuasca Visions. Immediately after, a num-
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81

AMAZONIAN ART
“I think that artists from the jungle have realized that they can
have a political role,” explains Bendayán. “I think that art production
today is a reaction to the government’s refusal to recognize
the issues – they are seen as distant, as if they aren’t part of Peru.
This attitude spawned a show called Green Power in 2011. And
perhaps the most precise political show that we have presented
this year is From their long cry, the Amazon was formed. At this
moment there is a general concern for the rights of the Amazonian
people – the right to own your land, to protect your traditions
and culture. There’s a strong concern to recuperate history, to recognize
the traumatic episodes and expose the hidden moments
– from the discovery of the Amazon, to the issues with rubber,
petroleum, wood, and coca.”
Indian line - Christian Bendayán (2011).
As Bendayán suggests, there is currently a tendency to revalue
local traditions in new ways. The “kenés” (traditional hand-drawn
graphic designs) done by Shipibo women, have become present
in contemporary art. Legends are being rescued and recognized
as the basis of Amazonian identity, rather than thought of as
whimsical, exotic myths. Amazonian art is taking off once again,
in a new, different, and transformative way.

83

AGENDA
AGENDA
MALI IN SITU: ABRAHAM CRUZVILLEGAS AND
HIS SELF-DESTRUCTION PROJECT 7: UNTYING
THE KNOT
The “MALI in situ” program returns with the
presentation of well-known Mexican artist,
Abraham Cruzvillegas, who has prepared
a special adaptation of his project Self-destruction
7: Untying the Knot. The artist has developed
a musical proposal that revolves around
a non-lineal fiction story: the travels of a pre-
Hispanic character from the Michoacan region
of what is now, the Valley of Lima. The exhibition
will run from the 28th of January, until the 8th
of March in the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI).
JOSS STONE IN LIMA
The British singer arrives in Lima’s Huaca
Pucllana on March 3rd, as part of her
Total World Tour.

SLASH IN LIMA
For lovers of rock and roll, legendary guitarist,
Slash, represents much more than Guns N’
Roses. For the first time ever, the British musician
– who’s real name is Saul Hudson – will be
playing in Lima, on the 9th of March.
JAMES BLUNT IN LIMA
S
ix years after his first concert in Lima, British pop
star James Blunt returns to perform a concert as a
part of his Moon Ladine album tour. Known for hits
like High, 1973, and Goodbye My Lover, Blunt will arrive
to impress yet again, on March 17th in the Amphitheatre
in Parque de la Exposicion.
PABLO MILANÉS RETURNS
C
uban musician and Latin Grammy winner, Pablo
Milanés returns to Peru to promote his newest album:
Renacimiento. The show will take place on
March 21st in the Gran Teatro Nacional. Concertgoers
will have the chance to enjoy hits from his latest album,
as well as classics like: El breve espacio en que no
estas, Yolanda, Ya ves, and Para Vivir.
LA SARITA AND UCHPA IN THE GRAN TEATRO NACIONAL
La Sarita and Uchpa are two of the bands that will
participate in the Rockumental concert in the Gran
Teatro Nacional on Thursday April 8th, delighting
concertgoers with their best rock fusion.
/85

EXPATRIATE
Gennaro Lettieri
“PERU: IT’S MY PARADISE. IT’S THE PERFECT MIX OF EVERYTHING”, SAYS GENNARO
LETTIERI, CEO OF THE TABACALERA DEL ORIENTE. TARAPOTO, SAN MARTIN.
By
Iñigo Maneiro
Iñigo Maneiro
Where have you lived?
I was born in Poggiomarino, Napoli (Italy). I
lived in Switzerland from ages 13-18, and
then moved to London, where I lived until I
was 28 years old.
What did you study and what did you
used to do?
I come from a family of home-fabric salespeople.
I speak four languages, and I studied
business at the European Business
School of London. After graduating, I worked
in London as an investment banker.
When and why did you come to Peru?
I was brought to Peru by life, in 2004. My
father and I were travelling through Mexico,
Venezuela, Colombia, and Peru with the
idea of finding somewhere to invest, since
Europe was growing increasingly competitive.
We decided to settle in Peru because of
the country’s situation in that time.
What attracted you to Tarapoto as opposed
to somewhere else?
When people ask me about my country or
about the countries I’ve visited, I always
respond saying that Peru has everything,
and that Tarapoto is a paradise thanks to
its people, its charm, the food, and the
weather. It offers the perfect balance of
work and quality living. Many people in
Europe have forgotten about themselves.
They have forgotten to enjoy special moments.
They live running from place to place,
often without knowing where to go, or
what to do. Tarapoto has taught me that life
can be simple and easy, without complications;
that we are the ones who complicate
our existence. When I arrived here my ‘inner
craftsman’ flourished. Making a cigar is a
long, meticulous, and artistic job that starts
with a seed in a field.
You own the only cigar company in
Peru. Why did you come into the world
of tobacco?
Because of passion. Because I dreamt of
making a product that allowed me to be involved
from the very beginning, and throughout
the whole, delicate process - which in
this case, can take many years. Besides,
the tobacco plant is native to Peru – as
confirmed by Cubans themselves – and we
haven’t even begun to take advantage of it.
What is a Peruvian cigar like?
It’s a medium-strength cigar with a complex
bouquet full of subtle hints. If you ask
me, it’s the best in the world. In reality, it’s
very appreciated amongst smokers and aficionados.
We continue to introduce it into
demanding markets, like England, that are
currently monopolized by Cuban producers.
Peruvian cigars are gaining popularity.
This year we will be introducing them into
Germany and the USA.
What’s your biggest challenge?
To be like a salmon, always swimming
against the current. On a macro level, the
world attitude right now is generally antitobacco,
and while this doesn’t really affect
cigar producers, it still worries us. Speaking
on a micro level, we feel as though being
here, in ‘paradise’, we are a bit isolated
from everything and it creates logistical
complications in terms of exporting product
and importing materials. We have to find
efficient ways to better diffuse our products.