Avizandum ( July 2018 )

How to successfully pair Lovebirds....pg38
Do’s and Don’ts...pg22
Vol. 30 No. 07 • July 2018
Handrearing
Macaws
THE WESTERN LONG-
BILLED CORELLA
Musings from an
Aviculturist
THE SPOTTED
TURTLEDOVE
(Streptopelia chinensis)
Pionus Parrots
Pg. 04
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Finch Eggs:
Incubation and Fertility Pg. 24
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Breeding birds is not an easy task and the challenges facing today’s breeders are many. Obviously
the aim of any breeding aviary is the production of chicks at as high a number as possible. Many
breeders are now handrearing these chicks, which is not a simple straight forward task. Baby birds
are very fragile creatures, and successful handrearing relies on very specific adherence to a few
basic principles. The aim of this pamphlet is to outline and summarize these principles, as well as
give guidelines on the feed that Aviproducts has developed to assist in successful handrearing.
Diet
It is important to note that there are different nutritional requirements between birds of different
species and at different ages. To cater for these differences, Avi-Plus has the following range of premium quality handrear formulas available.
• Handrear Phase 1 (Hatch to day 10-14): highly digestible to allow maximum absorption in the newly hatched chick with its immature digestive
system. High fat and nutrient levels allow for the rapid growth at this age and for good fat storage.
• Handrear Phase 2 (2 weeks to Fledging): is rich in highly digestible protein, fat in the form of palm oil and additional critical amino acids that
help in the first stage of feather formation.
• Handrear Finisher (6 weeks to weaning): growth rate has now slowed down, with a resultant decrease in protein requirements. Finisher allows
for this by slightly dropping the protein levels while still maintaining adequate fat levels for final stage development.
• Handrear Macaw (Hatch to Weaning): Macaws have a higher fat requirement compared to other species. High levels of fat are provided by
palm oil, amino acids. Vitamins and minerals are also added.
• Handrear Parakeet (2 weeks to Weaning): developed specifically for parakeets so as to support their unique requirements of protein, energy,
vitamins and amino acids.
Feed Preparation
To mix Avi-Plus handrear formulas, start with boiling water that has been allowed to cool to about 50°C. Mix the formula according to the guidelines
below (table 1) and stir well to remove any lumps. Because we cannot guarantee how our products are stored once leaving the factory, ALWAYS
ENSURE PRODUCT FRESHNESS BY TASTE AND SMELL BEFORE FEEDING. If you are at all concerned about the quality of the food do not use it.
• Allow the feed to cool to between 40 and 45°C and feed.
• Never use formula below 40°C as this may slow the rate of digestion and cause souring of the food in the crop and possible infection and crop
stasis.
• Feed that is fed too hot may cause crop burn.
Table 1: Formula to Water mix ratio (by volume) according to age
Product
1&2
days
3-5
days
6-10
days
10-14
days
14-21
days
28-42
days
Phase 1 1:6 1:5 or 6 1:5 - - - -
Phase 2 - - - 1:4 1:4 1:3 -
>42
days
Finisher - - - - - - 1:3
Macaw - - - 1:4 1:4 1:3 1:3
Parakeet - - - 1:4 1:3 or 4 1:3 1:3
Feed Instructions
• Frequency of feeding. A routine for each chick should be established to allow the crop to almost empty between feeds. This prevents food from
remaining in the crop for too long and going sour/fermenting. Crops MUST be allowed to empty completely at least once a day.
• Volume of feed. Feed 10 – 12% of the chick’s current body weight (up to 15% in smaller species). Feeding more than 15% may damage crop
muscles, which will result in slow emptying. Overfeeding may also result in regurgitation and possible aspiration of food into the airway.
• Completely balanced diet: Avi-Plus handrear formulas are designed to be the ONLY source of food so Do NOT ADD any additional vitamin/
mineral/amino supplements. There may however be specific requirements for certain species eg. Caiques do better with pureed fruit added
to the formula. In these instances ensure that additions to the formula are made in the correct proportions.

Bristle Worms...pg22
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S.A.’s only monthly magazine for keepers and breeders of pet and aviary birds. Since 1989
July
Volume 30 | Number 07 | 2018
04
14
18
24
32
42
10
22
38
Features
PIONUS PARROTS
As with all parrots one should consider their right to flight; this
natural function is so important to the general well being and
mental stability.
PBFD SCARE FOR WILD PHILIPPINE COCKATOOS
PASSES
In 2016, for the first time ever, the results of screening for
Circovirus came back positive for 14 out of 26 samples from
Philippine Cockatoo chicks hatched in the wild population on
Rasa Island, in the Narra district of Palawan, the world’s most
important population of this critically endangered species.
THE WESTERN LONG-BILLED CORELLA
These are very playful parrots and love to play on the ground
rolling around with each other like puppies at play. Or lie on
their backs balancing a pine cone or ball.
EGGS (INCLUDING CLEAR EGGS & EGG REPAIR)
Most of the time, a hen is stimulated to lay her eggs because
she mated with a male. Sometimes, however, a hen may be
stimulated to lay eggs even if no successful mating took place.
HANDREARING MACAWS
In this article we will cover all the import aspects you need to
know when it comes to handrearing these incredible parrots
and hopefully these techniques will help to incease your
success with Macaw chicks!
MUSINGS FROM AN AVICULTURIST
The cockatoos, macaws and amazons were outside playing
and resting rather than indoors in a shelter where the weather
was warmer and the wind was absent. How could parrots
tolerate such low levels?
Other Articles
SPOTTED TURTLEDOVE
DO’S AND DON’TS FOR LIVING WITH PARROTS
HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY PAIR LOVEBIRDS
TOGETHER
Regulars
03 Editorial
48 Bird Shop
53 Avian Vet Directory
54 Advertisers’ Index
56 Clubs & Associations
10
18
38
02 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

F
eeding ourselves has never been easier.
We can hit the drive-through, order
delivery, buy pre-made meals or dine
out. We don’t even need to wash or chop
produce — we can buy a pre-made salad
complete with dressing and toppings. Why
then do we sometimes choose to go out of our
way to download or search for a recipe, shop
for the ingredients and then spend a couple
hours preparing it in the kitchen? It boils down
to satisfaction. A homemade meal, even one
where the dish might not come out “Picture
perfect,” is immensely satisfying because of
the effort put into it — literally allowing us to
eat the “fruits of our labour.” In this example,
you might say we are exhibiting signs of contra
freeloading behaviour. Contra-what?
“Working” To Get Food
Contrafreeloading is an observed behaviour
in which an animal, when offered a choice
between provided food or food that requires
effort to obtain, prefers the food that requires
effort. Animal psychologist Glen Jensen is
credited as coining the term in 1963, and it is
based on his study of rats that were given a
choice to eat either straight from a food bowl or
from a food dispenser that required stepping on
a pedal to release the food. Jensen discovered
that the rats went for the pedal more than the
bowl. Over the years, similar studies have
been done on a plethora of animals, including
birds, and the results were similar to that of the
rats — most animals prefer to “work for food.”
Armed with this knowledge, it might be time to
assess not just what you feed your bird, but
the way you feed your bird. Is your bird’s food,
including treats, always offered in the bowl,
conveniently located within beak’s reach? If the
answer is yes, consider switching up the way
you feed. To get you started, do so research on
some alternative foraging methods which will
allow you birds to do some work for the food
which ultimately makes them happier birds!
Moving on from foraging we have allot of
readers asking how can they determine the
age of their bird. Lets take a look at a few
guidelines. Determining the age of a bird can
be very difficult and varies widely between
different species. This post will outline some
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basic clues you can look for to determine if a
bird is truly as young as a seller may claim. Of
course, the only way you can guarantee you’re
getting young birds is to buy them when they
still have their juvenile colouring or to buy from
trusted breeders who put closed leg rings on
their young.
Feather Condition
Young birds are generally slicker and “newer”
looking than old ones. This is a lot more obvious
in parrots than finches, but still a good place to
start. Some finches fade in colour as they get
older. This is especially prevalent in Gouldian
finches, but it applies to most other species to
varying degrees. Of course, you have no way
of knowing whether the bird is old, really young
(and doesn’t yet have adult feathers) or just
didn’t have striking colours to begin with.
Legs and Nails
Darker legs, flaky leg skin and overgrown
toenails may indicate that the bird is quite old.
Breeders who apply steel leg rings to their
birds can make things easier, as they are
sometimes engraved with the bird’s year of
birth. Unlike plastic leg rings, it’s difficult (but
not impossible) to replace or alter a steel ring
once the bird has reached maturity. Rings that
identify year based on colour can still be useful,
but you need to trust that the breeder has kept
good records and is presenting them honestly.
General Activity
Older birds like to relax and don’t move around
as much. I have lovebirds in their late teens
that spend 20 hours a day in their nest box.
Having said that, some young birds are also
lazy, but they’re probably sick and shouldn’t be
purchased anyway.
Beak Colour
Some birds, particularly parrots, will have
their beaks change colour as they get older.
Lorikeet beaks will start black and turn from
reddish brown, to red, to a maroon colour over
the course of their lives. Eclectus parrot males
will have their beak turn from orange to a light
yellow as they begin to get old.
Happy reading and happy birdkeeping!
The Avizandum Team
Issue Colour Adverts Bird Shop
August 2018 20 June 2018 25 June 2018
September 2018 20 July 2018 25 July 2018
October 2018 20 August 2018 25 August 2018
avizandum magazine
volume 30 | number 07
July 2018
Senior Editor
David Dennison
Managing Editor
Rolf Dennison
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A great green macaw
(Ara ambiguus)
Photographed at Tracy Aviary in Salt Lake City, Utah
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 03

PARROTS
“I have been privileged to
work with this wonderful
genus for over twenty five
years, and hopefully in years
to come there will be others
just as committed to this
enchanting genus, who will
be allowed to give sanctuary
and safeguard to this most
interesting type of parrot.”
Pionus Parrots
John Stoodley
As with all parrots one should consider
their right to flight; this natural
function is so important to the general
well being and mental stability. The Blueheaded
Pionus menstruus was the first to
arrive in our collection and started a 25-
year way of life for me.
Our first Pionus breeding was a single
Bronze-winged Pionus chalcopterus raised
in 1973. Unfortunately its nest mate was
found dead in the nest box, mutilated by its
parents. It was a first breeding and was the
start of well over 500 pionus chicks raised
at the sanctuary.
The lesson learned from the loss of the
mutilated youngster was that each pair
needed a territory secure from other parrots
and parakeets. In a bank of flights double
wire between pairs will give the security
needed, preventing physical contact which
will lesson aggression between neighbors
04 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

and reduce wife beating.
We also learned that the nest box should be positioned away from
other parrots, which means it should not be hung up on the partition
since the movement made by neighboring birds climbing on the wire
will unsettle the hen. She may even be reluctant to use the nest box;
however if she is bold and does lay the distractions will bring her off
her eggs to confront the offender, the eggs being chilled and warmed
so many times that a poor hatch is inevitable.
The nest box should be large enough to accommodate in addition
to the hen bird, four or sometimes six chicks, who by the time they
fledge the nest, will be almost the size of the parent birds. In the
confines of a small nest box the male when feeding the young can
feel threatened by the vibrant chicks and may attack both hen and
chicks.
Since observing these two points we have never lost another pionus
chick in the nest box from parental attack.
Three to six eggs generally make up a clutch; a good diet is essential
in order to raise strong chicks whereas poor diet will lead to failure
and disappointment.
If one wishes to market youngsters they should be close wrung with
coded letters or numbers, which means proper records need to be
kept; it is important to be responsible.
Chicks of top quality must be our aim; too many offered for sale have
been stunted, and have poor bone structure. Parent raised stock
must be encouraged if we are to preserve this enchanting genus true
to type as nature intended.
When we first started to breed Pionus parrots the diet for most
captive parrots was sunflower seed, peanuts, and the occasional
piece of fruit. No wonder eggs were few and what were laid were
infertile or dead embryos resulted. Only when we became inventive
and completely moved away from conventional diet did fertility
improve and the number of live chicks increase.
Each genus of parrots kept was carefully studied, its diet compared
to that of its wild counterpart. We found that most of the parrots we
were working with enjoyed meat, taking beef and rabbit raw; this we
fed for some years as part of their diet, but as the collection became
larger it had to be discontinued for hygiene reasons.
Our aim was to formulate a feed that all our parrots would find
interesting and enjoyable; it must contain all the nutrients necessary
for good health and high fertility, yet would allow them to eat their
fill without becoming obese. At that time the only commercial feeds
available to us were chicken feeds and game bird pellets, both of
which were too high in carbohydrates for parrots. Those that were
given a choice would leave the pellets in preference to almost
anything else in the feed pots.
We formalized a diet for our birds and over the 20 years have more
or less adhered to it, our breeding success being a clear indication
of its value.
When we first introduced our formula the pulses were heated, and
put through the mill together with other ingredients; in later years the
pulses have been just sprouted, and fed uncooked in their whole
state.
Within the Pionus genus of seven species and several subspecies
there is some variation in food preferences.
The Tumultuosus - The plum-crowned
A bird of high altitude has an enormous appetite for green plant food.
Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus)
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 05

The sad fact in many cases is that
husbandry is just not good enough. Our
own birds are kept free of ascarids, but
on their going to an establishment where
floors are contaminated their chances of
survival are slim. Spillage of stale food,
unclean perches and foul water containers
all add up to problems. Wild caught birds
and those from clean aviaries just cannot
survive.
Anyone fortunate enough to keep these
little gems in an outdoor aviary will know
they will eat every edible growing shoot.
When kept in a sterile flight, generous
supplies of twigs and greens such as
watercress, land cress, mustard and
cress, and green onions will be essential
for condition required to induce breeding.
These delightful parrots will be a test of
avian management, susceptible as they
are to aspergillus.
When raising young their nesting material
must be changed frequently, to prevent
fungal infection of adults and young.
The thick down covering newly hatched
youngsters indicates that they come from
altitude.
Some years ago I was privileged to meet
the co-author of a wonderful book, Birds
of the High Andes, Jon Fjldsa, who had
seen the Plum-crowned parrot at heights of
Speckle-faced Parrot. Photo by Omar Dias.
3300m along the Andean slopes.
Also an inhabitant of the heights is Pionus
sordidus the Coral-billed parrot, recorded
up to 2400m. Their young also carry a
heavy down. Within a few days of hatching
their mandible takes on a coral pink hue,
hence their nickname Coral-bill. This parrot
is not as difficult to maintain as the Plumcrown,
but it cannot tolerate second rate
accommodation. Pionus Parrots are fairly
well known in captivity; aviculturists enjoy
these inquisitive small parrots. During the
period of my interest in the bird, which is
about twenty five years, there have been
many thousands imported both into Europe
and the U S A; of these birds there is only a
fraction still alive in captivity. Their expected
life span exceeds twenty years, so what
has become of these captured birds? They
leave behind very few descendants to
justify the taking of them from their natural
habitat.
The young we breed at the sanctuary go
whenever possible into breeding situations,
the surplus into the pet market. Perhaps
a handful of people will breed from them
successfully; by success I mean a good nest
of parent reared youngsters each season.
Of the other birds I feel the interest wanes,
and the birds are not given the care these
delightful parrots deserve. Winter seals the
fate of so many tender tropical birds. One
would not consider buying a tropical plant
and keeping it outside during a severe cold
winter, yet all too often parrots are left with
little protection from the elements.
The few survivors in poor condition just
lack the vigor to reproduce.
Birds to be put up for breeding should have
their gender determined before occupying
a breeding unit.
The endoscope and other non-invasive
methods of establishing gender have been
a godsend, thus avoiding non-producing
attachments being formed. During our
early years we had six senilis males put
up as three pairs; fortunately following
surgical sexing females were introduced,
making six White-crowned males happy
fathers. Senilis are very prolific breeders
and wonderful parents.
In nature they enjoy a large range right
down to sea level, and are often observed
in small flocks; these hardy parrots are
ideal for beginners. During the breeding
Bronze-winged Parrot. Photo by Klaus Rudolph.
Speckle-faced Parrot.
06 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

season I find them fearless, defending
their nest with great courage. The pleasure
gained from these parrots well rewarded us
for the great effort we had to make to get
these bachelor boys to realize that family
life could be fun.
The Menstruus or the Blue
headed
Has the largest range of the group and
many people start with this hardy beautiful
parrot. We have been fortunate to have
several colour variations; care must be
taken not to exaggerate and try to create
sub species, as birds vary somewhat like
humans. The young Menstruus often
develop red forecrowns when they first
feather, however this molts out before one
year is out.
Pionus Maximiliani also has an enormous
range; this somewhat plain coloured parrot
needs to be seen in good light to appreciate
its beauty. I find them to be the quiet bird
of the group; their young often show more
blue than the parent birds; this however
molts during the first year.
Pionus chalcopterus The
Bronze-winged parrot
Their territory overlaps with the seiloides;
the Bronze-winged carries so many colours
and shades, viewed in differing lights its
magnificence fills the eye; it is a ready
breeder; in breeding condition the eye
rings are deep red.
Pionus seniloides, another Pionus of the
Andes: its habitat is north of the Plumcrowned;
I feel this dull coloured parrot is
close to the Plum-crown.
I cannot help feeling it may be a subspecies;
geographical distribution makes
them neighbors, lending substance to my
theory.
Pionus fuscus the Dusky parrot
Their distribution includes Southern
Venezuela, Guiana, North-West Brazil.
Small distribution in North-Eastern
Colombia.
The somewhat hawklike appearance and
its varied colour makes it a great favorite
of mine. Many specimens have a beautiful
colour variation on the breast and lower
abdomen. Also the white or cream colour
about the head varies a great deal.
The bonding of Pionus parrots appears
strong, but I have had a Plum- crown male
take a second wife in the same season
following the death of his long time partner.
Our parrots go to nest fairly early in the
year, sometimes during February. Since
they are housed in buildings with heat and
light control, outside weather conditions
are of little consequence.
Those that are kept in outside aviaries
can frustrate their owners; at the merest
suggestion of extended day light females
tend to lay, whereas males can be up to a
month behind their hens in condition.
To eliminate wasted eggs the nest box
entrance can be sealed up for the winter;
when the male is in peak condition and
displaying to his mate the nest box can be
opened up.
Courtship is much the same as with
other South American parrots; the male
becomes aggressive; if he can attack his
neighbors he will. This is where the double
wire partitions between pairs eliminates the
possibility of birds losing mandibles and
toes.
In a high density situation the male can
set about the hen, driving her from pillar to
post in his attempt to keep her away from
other nearby males. She may hide in the
nest box to keep out of harm’s way, and
although mating has not taken place she
may well lay eggs. With or without eggs a
bullied hen can sit the summer in the nest
box.
If the flight is large then clipping one of the
male’s wings will slow him down, giving the
female an advantage; but in the smaller
modern day aviaries where birds hop from
perch to perch there is little to be gained;
rather if flights are screened it will give the
privacy needed, and the isolation usually
takes the heat out of the situation.
The dedicated aviculturist will keep records
of when each egg is laid; this is especially
important where there are several birds
setting their eggs. We all learn by our
mistakes and if the eggs are not candled
the hen could be sitting on clear eggs or
dead embryos weeks beyond the normal
25 to 26 days incubation period, which is
not only frustrating but wasteful.
During the time the hen is setting her eggs
and later caring for her brood she will for
go her daily shower, but as soon as the
chicks are feathered she will once again
The Dusky parrot
First SA TurquoiseBlue
from Beeding program
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 07

enjoy a mist spray. No Pionus parrot should
be denied the delights of water spray;
not only will it keep feathers in excellent
condition but birds and owner will derive
great pleasure from the occasion. To me it
is as pleasing as watching a group of small
children splashing in a pool.
The Dusky parrot
Food consumption will rocket once eggs
hatch. Food fresh and clean should be
available to the parent birds from first light
till dark. The babies will want breakfast
before 5 am in England during our long
summer days. If this is beyond the services
of the establishment then dry seed or some
fruit should be given before dusk, to take
care of early morning demand. Lack of
food can cause abandonment of the young
or an attack on them. Once the young have
fledged they seldom go back into the nest
box to roost. They need to be fed by the
parent birds for a few days or perhaps a
week or two depending on progress.
In a large aviary the male bird may tolerate
the close presence of the fledglings and
continue to feed them when they beg for
food. If the birds have only a small aviary the
young can be put into a cage hung against
the aviary so the parents can continue to
feed the youngsters through the bars, but
be sure the youngsters have a food supply
of their own, to encourage them to self
feed. In this method one feels that some
degree of safety can be accomplished.
Leaving the young with the parent birds
from egg until they are flighted will cover
a period of about twelve weeks plus the
weaning time after the young leave the
nest.
Few pairs will come into breeding condition
again after such a long stint; they usually
go into a moult and try again next year. If
however the eggs or very young chicks
are taken from the nest to be raised away
from the parents, they sometimes can be
persuade to nest again.
Speckle-faced Parrot.
Photo by Eduardo
Nogueira.
At the sanctuary we are very careful to
see that all our breeding birds have the
opportunity to raise one nest of chicks
each season. No bird is used as an egg
machine. Our Pionus are now three or four
generations captive bred, and while the
operative word is ‘captive’ our aim is to
keep our birds in a stress free environment.
I have been privileged to work with this
wonderful genus for over twenty five years,
and hopefully in years to come there
will be others just as committed to this
enchanting genus, who will be allowed to
give sanctuary and safeguard to this most
interesting type of parrot.
08 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

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GALVANISED FLAT SHEET METAL
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www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 09

DOVES
“ Aviary birds will select
natural sites in growing
shrubs or dried brush, or,
may use artificial sites if
these are made available. “
SPOTTED TURTLEDOVE
(Streptopelia chinensis)
By Danny Brown
B.Sc (Hons)
Other names:
Length:
Adult Weight:
- Lace neck Dove,
- Indian Dove,
- Spotted Dove,
- Turtle Dove
- 300-330mm,
- 150-200 grams
Description
The cock and Hen have a pale grey
crown and forehead. The chin is a
paler grey while the throat and upper
breast has a pinkish shading with grey on
the under parts. The sides of the neck are
black with white spots and forms a rear half
collar around the neck.
The back and wings are brown with paler
edges and a darker enteral strip to each
feather giving it a streaked and scalloped
appearance. The under tail covert feathers
go from a white to grey whereas the tail is
black and white tipped. The leading edge of
the wing is a bluish to grey colour.
Eyes vary from a yellowish to an orange
colour and the bill is a grey-brown colour.
Lastly the legs and feet are dull red in
colour.
Sexing
Both sexes are similar in appearance,
although, cocks may have a bolder,
coarser head. Vent sexing may be used in
this species (see Barbary Dove).
Hatchlings
10 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

Newly hatched chicks are covered in a
long, thick sand-coloured down that is
paler on the underside. The eyes open at
around 3-4 days old and are grey with a
brown inner ring.
Distribution and Habitat
The Spotted Turtledove has been
introduced to Australia and exists as feral
populations in several areas. It is found
mainly in eastern and south eastern coastal
and subcostal urban and agricultural
areas from north Queensland to Adelaide,
South Australia. A population also exists in
Western Australia, around Perth and some
wheat belt towns.
Its natural range extends from India east
to China, South-East Asia, the Philippines,
Borneo, the Moluccas and Timor. In its
natural habitat it is found in areas of urban
dwellings, villages, cultivated paddocks
and dry forest.
Subspecies
Two subspecies exist in the wild in Australia,
however their status as pure specimens in
Australian aviculture is somewhat suspect.
Both subspecies have been introduced into
this country and exist in feral populations.
In some areas they may be regarded as a
pest.
S. c. chinensis from China and Burma
occurs in its purest form around Melbourne.
S. c. tigrina from Bangladesh, Indonesia
and the Philippines occurs in its purest form
in Queensland particularly around lnnisfail.
The nominate subspecies has grey under
tail coverts and a bluish edge to the wing
whilst S. c. tigrina has white under tail
coverts and a light grey edge to the wing.
may show little fear towards humans.
Aviary birds can be successfully
maintained, and bred, on a diet of
commercially available small seed mixes
(Finch, Budgerigar or Small Parrot mix)
supplemented with green feed. Little, if any,
live food is eaten even when offered and
is not considered essential. Chicken starter
crumbles will also be taken.
Breeding
Breeding occurs throughout the year with
a peak of activity occurring from July to
February. This pattern is evident in both
wild and captive birds.
Courtship involves a display flight and
bowing display. The display flight is carried
out by the cock bird and in this display he
flies steeply upwards with a clap of wings,
reaches an apex and then glides down
again. The bowing display is characteristic
of this group and involves the cock bird
inflating his neck and breast feathers,
bowing forward to display the expanded
neck patch and calling at the culmination
of each bow.
As with all members of this group, the
cock bird will usually select the nest site
and advertise it to the hen by sitting in
the chosen area and wing-twitching whilst
Housing
The Spotted Turtledove is considered
compatible with finches, quail, small
parrots and other pigeon and dove species.
It can be flighty if housed without an area of
retreat, and this may disrupt other species
in the same area. It can be housed in open
parrot-style aviaries and lightly planted
enclosures. Open floor areas should be
provided for foraging and sunbathing.
This species will often feed
alongside roads and paths
and may show little fear of
humans.
This species may be housed as single
pairs or in a colony.
Feeding
In the wild, this species will feed on the
ground taking, primarily, foods made
available by people or their altered habitats.
Garden plants, weed seeds, bread, scraps,
and animal feeds are the primary dietary
components of these birds in Australia,
and in their native habitat. This species will
often feed alongside roads and paths and
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 11

Both sexes are similar in appearance although cocks may have a bolder, more coarse head. Vent sexing may be used in this species.
uttering a low advertising call. If the hen is
satisfied with the site then she will join the
cock and share nest building. If unsatisfied,
she will fly away from the nest to another
site with the cock in hot pursuit.
The nest is a platform of twigs, leaves,
grass and often pine needles and is usually
placed at a height of 2-4 metres, but up to
20 metres has been recorded. The nest is
often encrusted with droppings even after
recently being built. Nests are usually built
in shrubs and trees but artificial structures
such as cavities in houses and telegraph
poles may be used. Aviary birds will select
natural sites in growing shrubs or dried
brush, or, may use artificial sites if these
are made available.
Two glossy white eggs are laid measuring
29 x 23mm and are incubated by both
sexes. Occasionally both parents will
incubate together and this will occur
throughout the brooding period as well.
Wild birds may use a distraction display to
draw intruders away from the nest site.
Upon hatching, the chicks weigh between
5-8 grams. They will have quill feathers
showing from around 5 days of age and
the wing feathers emerge at 6 days of age.
At 9 days of age, majority of the feathers
have emerged and feathering is relatively
complete at 15 days old. Fledging occurs
at this time but feather growth continues
until 35 days old when full juvenile plumage
is completed. Juveniles resemble duller
adults with the neck markings absent until
3-6 months of age. The fledglings are
considered as independent at 3-4 weeks.
Mutations
No established mutations of this species
are available but, fawn, pied and reverse
pied specimens can occur occasionally.
Hybrids
This species will readily hybridise with
other members of the Streptopelia group,
producing fertile young. Consequently birds
of this type should be housed separately
whenever possible.
Status in Aviculture
The captive status of the Spotted Turtledove
is low, primarily due to its “pest” status in
most capital cities where it occurs.
It can be housed in open parrot-style
aviaries and lightly planted enclosures.
Open floor areas should be provided
for foraging and sunbathing.
12 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

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Other Countries R37.82 (excl. VAT)
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www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 13

NEWS
A colour-marked Philippine Cockatoo released
on Dumaran Island.Photo by Peter Widmann/
KFI.
PBFD scare for wild Philippine Cockatoos
passes - conservation action continues
with heightened vigilance
Figure 1. Evolution of the
foraging population of Philippine
Cockatoos in Panacan, Palawan.
Photo by Peter Widmann/KFI.
Dr. David Waugh
Correspondent,
Loro Parque
Fundación
14 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

The extremely concerning results were
reflected in the faces of the Philippine
Cockatoo Conservation Program
(PCCP) directors, Peter Widmann,
Indira Lacerna-Widmann, and their team
members. In 2016, for the first time ever,
the results of screening for Circovirus
came back positive for 14 out of 26
samples from Philippine Cockatoo chicks
hatched in the wild population on Rasa
Island, in the Narra district of Palawan. The
world’s most important population of this
critically endangered species. Circovirus
is the causative organism of Psittacine
Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD), a
highly contagious and debilitating disease
affecting parrots. On top of all the other
threats to the Philippine Cockatoo, to have
PBFD run rampant in the wild population
could be catastrophic, especially given that
the number of wild individuals is estimated
to be 1,120 at best and perhaps no more
than 650.
For the past two decades the Loro
Parque Fundación has been the principal
supporter of the PCCP, and since the year
2000, the project has included the regular
sampling and screening of wild hatchlings
for Circovirus within each breeding season,
at all project sites. Testing was initiated with
a UK-based commercial laboratory, and
more recently has been done together with
the DNA Barcoding Lab at the University of
the Philippines, Diliman. All cockatoos had
tested negative over the years, and even in
2016 the hatchlings from all other project
sites tested negative. Worryingly, in the
images from the agarose gels of the Rasa
Island samples the faint but distinct bands
at about 700bp (base pairs, a measure of
the length of a DNA fragment) indicated the
detection of viral DNA.
In cases such as this, best practice dictates
the repeat testing of samples to rule out
false positives, and therefore positive
samples were again DNA-sequenced
at the University of the Philippines and
at FirstBase Asia in Malaysia. It was
with great relief that the results from
these two independent testing sites all
came back negative for presence of the
virus. However, to add another layer of
confidence, later in the year the PCCP
team re-sampled all cockatoos maintained
in captivity, some of which were intended
for translocation, as well as obtaining
samples from domestic budgerigars in the
same area. All results of the cockatoos
were again negative. Nevertheless, all the
budgerigar samples tested positive which
gives a clear indication of potentially high
risk of infection of wild parrot populations
in Palawan, should they get in contact with
infected domesticated psittacines. A survey
by the PCCP team of pet birds in Panacan,
on the main island of Palawan adjacent to
Rasa, revealed that at least one household
maintains budgerigars in an outside aviary,
in a location well within wild cockatoo
foraging areas.
In response to these findings, the PCCP
has initiated a strategy to minimise the
future threat of PBFD. The first step
has been to inform Palawan Council
for Sustainable Development (PCSDS)
and the Department of Environment and
Natural resources (DENR), and the former
A Philippine Cockatoo chick from Rasa
Island, sampled for virus screening. Photo
by Peter Widmann/KFI.
Philippine Cockatoos
feeding on horseradish
tree fruits. Photo by Peter
Widmann/KFI.
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 15

The PCCP team: dedicated to the survival of the Philippine Cockatoo. Photo by Peter Widmann/KFI.
Student group in their cockatoo costumes at the Katala Festival.Photo by Peter
Widmann/KFI.
convened a technical working group to
discuss the options to include the collecting
of more samples from pet parrots in shops,
registered pet owners with registration and
also parrots at the Palawan Wildlife Rescue
and Conservation Centre. The PCSDS has
indicated its interest in a thorough PBFD
study in the entire Palawan province.
Meanwhile, the PCCP team has been
receiving advice on improved sampling and
screening protocols, and procedures to
avoid contamination between populations.
Other measures include the increase of
permitted samples at each project site, the
intensive sampling of pet parrots in Narra,
the collection of full blood samples instead
of feather samples, the storage of samples
in absolute ethanol instead of EDTA
Image of an agarose gel showing the faint bands (circled in red) indicating viral DNA. Photo by Peter Widmann/KFI.
16 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

preservative, and increased advocacy to regional authorities to
highlight the severity of the matter.
More cockatoos from Rasa Island are foraging on the main
island of Palawan. This is evident from the increased counts
(Figure 1). The largest foraging flocks are routinely observed
crossing from and to Rasa at the narrowest point to Palawan
main island, with exit counts of up to 203 birds in July. Flocks
of up 102 birds have frequented a foraging area in the coastal
plains close to Rasa, feeding on fruits of Horseradish Tree. In
addition, a relatively stable roosting site of cockatoos in the
centre of Panacan village has accommodated up to 111 birds in
the month of August.
The most recent complete breeding season of 2017 produced
the highest number of breeding pairs, eggs laid, hatchlings and
fledglings, in Rasa Island since the start of the project almost
twenty years ago. This was due to the heavy rains at the end
of 2016 which resulted in an abundant food supply. Forty-seven
pairs reproduced, resulting in 96 hatchlings and a record of 90
cockatoos fledged, of which 85 could be leg-banded.
These were the excellent results to give a big boost to the 11th
Katala Festival held in Narra at the end of June. As in previous
years, this was very much a community event, but also with
the participation of officials from the local government and
agencies. Activities included tours to Rasa Island, a guided tour
to the cockatoo roost site where 90 cockatoos were recorded,
and an introduction to bird-watching for 489 students from
six local schools. The schools were also very much engaged
in several competitions with environmental content, not least
to show off their Philippine Cockatoo costumes. A Katala Fun
Day was also organised at another project site, the island of
Pandanan. However, the best news from that site was the
highest roost count since the inception of the project, with 254
individuals recorded. Further good news is that the project team
members found no wildlife being kept as pets during visits to 63
households. The households were visited by the team to inform
residents on wildlife laws.
Adult wild Philippine Cockatoo.Photo by Peter Widmann/KFI.
Map of the
Philippine
Cockatoo
Conservation
Program sites.
Photo by Peter
Widmann/KFI.
At another project site on the larger island of Dumaran, four
of seven cockatoos were released from the aviary in the Omoi
Cockatoo Reserve at the end of January. The remaining three
birds were released three days later, after making sure that at
least two previously released birds were in the vicinity. Aside from
having coloured leg-bands, they were also temporarily colourcoded
on the wing coverts to facilitate individual identification.
One bird had to be recaptured by mid-May and kept in the aviary
because it had lost weight below 250g, but it could be released
again by the end of May. By August all seven cockatoos had
connected to the wild flock and were observed at the roost site.
In addition, three of the four cockatoos released in 2015/16
were observed regularly, often foraging together with the wild
flock. Throughout the entire period the wardens were patrolling,
and no illegal activities were reported from any month.
These and many more successes of the project will continue.
The PCCP directors and team members have total dedication
to the recovery of the Philippine Cockatoo, and will put all their
effort and expertise into the exclusion of PBFD as an additional
threat. The project is also supported by partners donors Chester
Zoo, ZGAP (Zoological Society for the Conservation of Species
and Populations) and Beaval Nature.
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 17

COCKATOO
“The recently
discovered South
African Turquoise
displays a clear
orange forehead.”
THE WESTERN
LONG-BILLED CORELLA
Compiled by
Perry Webb of
Billabong Birds
Member of Animal
Interest Alliance
Trust
Cacatua Pastinator
Description
A
medium sized, white bird with a
small crest. It is slightly more offwhite
than the Eastern Slender-bill. It
also has less red on its face and lores, and
does not exhibit the distinctive red chevron
on the throat which makes the tenuirostris
so beautiful. It has a yellow wash under
the tail coverts and under the wings and a
grey-blue bare eye patch. Weight is about
600 to 700 grams and is of a chunkier build
than the Eastern slender –bill and is also
about 100 grammes heavier.
To many people this is an ugly bird but you
soon change your mind once you get to
know them, with their sense of humour and
clownish behaviour and their great love of
human company they are a pleasure to
have in the aviary.
These are very playful parrots and love to
play on the ground rolling around with each
other like puppies at play. Or lie on their
backs balancing a pine cone or ball.
To quote Rosemary Low; - “Perhaps no
other parrot combines intelligence and
humour to produce such a unique and
appealing personality.”
Distribution
These birds are restricted to the south
western part of Western Australia in two
distinct small populations. Preferred habitat
is open forest country and along wooded
water courses and farmland where trees
have been maintained.
Food in the wild consists of seeds, roots,
and bulbs of various local and introduced
grasses and ground plants. A favourite food
is the onion grass bulb which is excavated
with their long bill. They feed in flocks so
grain and crop damage can be a problem
in agricultural areas.
Population of this bird is low but is improving
since receiving protected status. The main
cause of mortality is being shot by humans.
These birds have adapted well to large
scale agricultural development and
therefore, have come into conflict with man.
Which always bodes ill for wild creatures,
by the 1920s the population had decreased
to such an extent that only two small
populations were left one on Lake Muir ,
SSE of Perth and a larger one between
Moora and Geraldton.
Since the 1930s the population has
gradually increased with an Eastward
movement following agricultural
development.
18 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

Food in the wild consists of
seeds, roots, and bulbs of
various local and introduced
grasses and ground plants.
A favourite food is the
onion grass bulb which is
excavated with their long
bill.
One source gave the total of wild
populations at only 2000 birds in 1980.
However the range and population is now
slowly increasing.
In the aviary as in the wild, this is a very
rare bird and has been available in South
Africa only over the past few years due
to being imported from the USA and New
Zealand.
Rarity, unfortunately, makes them
expensive however serious collectors
should give serious consideration to
preserving this bird for posterity.
Breeding
Breeding takes place from September
to November and the average clutch is
three eggs with brooding by both parents.
Brooding starts when the second egg is
laid, the chicks hatch between 23 and
24 days. Eggs are laid on a bed of wood
chips and in the aviary, they will use an
ordinary “amazon” boot shaped box or a
log, whatever happens to be handy.
Eve Daw owned a pair which in 2005
produced 14 chicks!
These are gregarious birds and it is not
uncommon to find more than one active
nest in a tree. The hens form pair bonds
from two years old with males being active
in seeking partners from between three
and five years.
They form long term pair bonds but will take
on another partner if the mate dies during
the breeding season. They have even been
known to pair up with galahs on occasion
after the death of a mate, although, no
mixed progeny have been noted in the wild.
Divorce and permanent swoping of partners
is not unknown but does not appear to
be a common occurrence. This amounts
to about 15% of breeding pairs, which is
higher than that of galahs which is about
8%. This behaviour however bodes well for
the aviarist as cock birds will happily accept
a new partner if the original hen dies, my
two pairs exhibit no mate aggression.
In The Aviary
I own two pairs; the one pair which grew up
together shows no aggression at all.
The other pair which were introduced when
he was four years old and she was nine
years old will squabble occasionally, but
she gives as good as she gets and there
Divorce and permanent swoping
of partners is not unknown
but does not appear to be a
common occurrence.
does not appear to be a dominance
problem as there would be with be with
other types of cockatoo, she sees herself
as a full partner and never shows any fear
of him. They bred for the first time in his
fifth year.
When they were first introduced he had
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 19

een on his own in the aviary for four
years and because of his rarity was treated
as a pet. As most people familiar with
cockatoo behaviour know this time period
would mitigate against putting a hen with
mature cockatoo cock bird because of
his aggressive tendencies, however the
Pastinator does not appear to have this
problem. This pair spends most of their
time apart during the day but do sleep
cuddled up together during the middle of
the day and at night.
They take well to captivity but need robust
toys with which to play, such as rope
perches and hanging chains. The aviary
should be about three metres high, two
metres wide and at least 4.5 metres long to
give them ample room to fly.
As they are ground feeders, aviaries
with concrete floors will need a sand box
for them to dig in. If your aviaries have
ground floors precautions need to be
taken to ensure that they are unable to dig
themselves out under the wire.
They have trumpeting cry which they
use when having a “mad half hour” in the
morning and afternoon. But do not scream
and screech like the Triton and umbrella
cockatoos. So are fairly neighbour friendly
as long as you have good neighbours. As
far as talking goes they are great mimics
and use many words.
In the aviary as in the wild this is a very rare bird and has been available in South Africa
only over the past few years being imported from the USA and New Zealand.
They are intriguing aviary subjects and are
an asset to any aviary.
Incubation
Incubation and hatching needs to be done
at a low humidity of about 42% rh. And at a
temperature of 37.3 degrees Celsius. The
chicks hatch after 24 days and are very
strong and gain weight rapidly with no crop
problems whatsoever. They can be fed
either on Avi Products hand rearing formula
or Katee Babybird.
Chicks need to be fed every 2 hours for
the first 4 days and then every 4 hours for
the next 4 to 5 weeks. Once the crop starts
to slow down then they can be placed on
3 feeds per day. After which they wean in
about a month.
Breeding takes place from September to November and the average clutch is three eggs
with brooding by both parents.
They metabolise their food at a rapid rate
and after day 4 when on four hourly feeds
they can be fed 11% to12. % of body
weight at each feed otherwise they remain
unsatisfied and may not gain weight rapidly.
As with all cockatoo chicks exercise care
not to overstretch the crop because of the
chicks greed, as this can lead to sour crop
problems. This is very easy to do when
spoon- feeding, it is safer to use a syringe
as the quantity fed can be more easily
controlled.
20 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 21

BIRDKEEPING
Do’s and Don’ts
by Liz Wilson
For Living With Parrots
Part I: The “Don’ts”
Sun Conure
In this first of a two-part article, I will
discuss the things to avoid when
cohabiting with parrots and other avian
species. My next article will discuss the
“Do’s.” This is a simplified list and things are
catalogued haphazardly, not in any order
of importance. I should also comment that
this is a perfect list for a perfect world. I,
for one, have not avoided all the negatives,
nor have I achieved all the positives. But
what is the point of life, if we don’t keep
trying?
18 DON’Ts:
1. Use Any Brand of Non-Stick Cookware.
Despite all the warnings and publicity,
fumes released from overheated nonstick
cookware are still killing companion
birds of all species. Non-stick coatings like
Teflon appear in other things as well, such
as hair driers and space heaters. Pet bird
owners need to be extremely vigilant about
this, and talking directly with the various
companies prior to purchase can help.
2. Tolerate Behaviours That No One Else
Can Stand.
I am horrified by the number of parrot
owners who acknowledge, often with great
pride, that their parrots have behaviour
problems that no one else would tolerate.
It is as if they wear this as a badge of
courage or something. However, since
many parrot species are extremely longlived,
this means these owners are setting
them up for failure in their next home. What
kind of legacy is that? Serious problem
behaviours need to be resolved, not
ignored or tolerated.
3. Respond to Behaviours You Don’t Want
By Paying Attention to the Parrot.
It is a sad reality that most pet bird owners
ignore their parrots when they are being
good and yell at them when they are bad.
So the parrots’ bad behaviours are being
rewarded with attention. And why exactly
wouldn’t these bad behaviours continue?
4. Get Any Species of Bird If You Are an
Obsessive Neat Freak.
Birds are messy creatures, period. Even
tiny soft-billed birds like canaries and
finches toss seed around, and every bird
sheds feathers and feather dander. Neat
freaks need not apply!
5. Don’t Get a Parrot If You Live In Housing
That Allows NO PETS.
People who smuggle parrots into “No Pet”
housing end up teaching their parrots to be
loud by trying to shut them up every time
they make a peep, dooming the parrots
22 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

to losing their homes. Quiet pets include
fish and reptiles so people in such housing
should consider them instead.
6. Get a Parrot Just Because Parrots Can
Talk.
While a talking parrot can be amusing,
human language will not justify how much
work parrots are. Babies learn to talk too,
but that’s hardly a reason for starting a
family! Radios can provide human speech
if that is all that is needed, and they are
much less demanding.
7. Don’t Expect Your Parrot to Talk.
Some species of parrots have a reputation
for talking ability but that does not mean
that every individual bird in that species
will talk, as many don’t. If talking ability is
that important to you, consider a parrot that
already talks. But parrots that talk in one
environment may not in another, so there
are no guarantees. And again, please
reconsider getting a pet parrot if talking
ability is really your only reason for wanting
one.
8. Get a Bird of Any Species Just Because
It Is Beautiful.
As with talking ability, beauty alone will
not counter balance the negative aspects
to bird ownership. If beauty is your sole
motivation for wanting a bird, please
stick to pictures; they are so much less
problematic.
9. Get a Parrot Species That Produces
a Lot of Powder, Such As a Cockatoo,
African Grey or Cockatiel, If You or a
Family Member Has Respiratory Allergies.
These so-called powder-down species
can produce respiratory problems even
without allergies. Do not take the chance.
The human’s — and the parrot’s — future
depends on it.
10. Get A Bird If You or A Family Member Is
Sensitive To Noise.
As previously mentioned, birds make
noise. If you (or a family member) values
silence, perhaps a picture will work for you
as well. I’ve been asked countless times
how to get a talking/chirping/babbling bird
to shut up. Radios come with ‘off’ switches.
Birds do not.
11. You Are Already Strapped Financially.
Even small birds need large and expensive
cages and that is just the beginning of the
financial outlay. When considering the cost
of food, toys and avian veterinary medicine,
birds are expensive to maintain properly.
12. Get A Parrot If You’re Already Too Busy
.
Parrots are social creatures, and they need
daily interaction, if only for a few minutes at
a time, several times a day. If you haven’t
the time to provide that, then don’t get one.
13. Don’t Cut Corners on the Price of Toys,
Food and Cages.
As stated earlier, parrots are expensive. If
you can’t afford to do it right, don’t get a
parrot.
14. Get a Large Parrot If You Live In a
Small Space.
If you cannot give a pet parrot the space
it needs, then don’t get one. Large parrots
and extremely active smaller species
require large cages and if you haven’t the
room, don’t get one. Period.
15. Sleep with Your Parrot.
Appalling though it sounds, numerous pet
parrots (as well as infants) are suffocated
yearly when sleeping alongside humans.
There is no excuse to run this risk.
16. All-Over Petting.
As far as an adult parrot is concerned,
“all-over petting” is sexual foreplay. This
needs to be avoided for obvious reasons,
as sexual stimulation can lead to serious
problems for owner and bird.
17. Get a Long-Lived Species like A
Parrot When YouWon’t Commit to a Long-
Standing Relationship.
Unlike shorter-lived companion animals
like dogs and cats, many pet parrots can
live a long time. Even a canary can live for
20 years and 50- to 60-year lifespans are
common with larger parrot species, such as
Amazon parrots, cockatoos and macaws.
They need a long-term commitment from
us. I recently encountered a young woman
who was looking for a home for her 4-yearold
Amazon parrot because she was going
to college. Hello? The possibility of college
didn’t exist four years ago?
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18. Get A Parrot If There’s Even One
Person In Your Household Who Is Not
Supportive Of The Idea.
Parrots can be aggravating companions
even for those of us who love them. To
bring such an intelligent, sentient creature
into a home where others do not welcome
it is incredibly selfish and totally unfair. How
would you like it if someone did that to you?
Some species of parrots
have a reputation for
talking ability but that
does not mean that every
individual bird in that
species will talk, as many
don’t.
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 23

FINCHES
“Several physiological changes
are occurring as the chick hatches
(see Anatomy), and assisting the
hatch may interrupt these and lead
to weakening of the chick. In most
cases, assisting a hatch does more
harm than good. If, however, you feel
strongly that your chick is in need of
assistance during hatching, call your
avian veterinarian for advice.”
Eggs (Including Clear
Eggs & Egg Repair)
Introductory Information
Most of the time, a hen is stimulated
to lay her eggs because she
mated with a male. Sometimes,
however, a hen may be stimulated to lay
eggs even if no successful mating took
place. Occasionally, a hen will even lay
eggs if no male is present in her enclosure:
she may pair off with another hen, or simply
lay eggs without any stimulation from any
mate at all. Of course fertile eggs will only
result from a successful mating with a male,
but, the point is, that sometimes hens will
lay eggs even without the possibility of any
of them being fertile.
That being stated, if you have a malefemale
pair of finches who has completed
their nest and mated, you will most likely be
seeing eggs arrive in the nest soon. Once
a pair has copulated, a small percentage of
sperm from the male’s ejaculate is stored
in special “sperm storage tubules” in the
female’s reproductive tract. She may store
sperm there for up to about 16 days and
release some of it as she ovulates. This
helps to ensure that sperm is available to
fertilize her ova when she is ready to lay her
eggs. It also allows her to produce multiple
fertile eggs days after the last mating took
place. The important implication of this
is realising that a hen pulled from a cage
with multiple males in it may be carrying
the sperm of different cock birds for about
two weeks (contrary to popular belief, even
“monogamous” species will engage in
By Graeme Hyde
By Isidro Martinez
extra-pair copulations). Therefore, if you
have a specific mating pair in mind (Hen
“X” with Cock “Y”) and want to produce
offspring from this pair alone, you will need
to keep other cocks away from Hen “X” for
at least a 16 days before introducing Cock
“Y” to her for breeding purposes.
Once you have witnessed the pair mating,
you should expect to see eggs in the nest
within approximately 5-7 days. Finch eggs
are laid once a day, usually daily and
usually during the early morning hours,
until a clutch anywhere from 3-8 eggs is
produced (4-6 eggs most commonly). It
would be wise to keep track of the date
that each egg is laid (as well as the date
on which incubation begins) for monitoring
24 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

purposes, as explained later. Of course,
make sure you are feeding an adequate
diet and providing a constant source of
calcium (such as a cuttle bone) to reduce
the risk of complications such as egg
binding.
Parental Care of Eggs
Fertile eggs can survive for about one
week before incubation commences. If
incubation does not begin within a week of
an egg being laid, its hatchability decreases
significantly. Parent finches normally begin
incubating their clutch after the 3rd-4th egg
is laid, although some pairs will wait until
the clutch is complete to begin incubation.
You will know incubation has begun when
at least one of the birds is sitting on the
eggs, not only during the day, but also
at night. Usually both parents share the
responsibility of incubation during the day.
At night the hen alone usually incubates,
although the cock may sleep next to her.
Remember to record the date at which
incubation begins, so you will be able to
monitor the progress of the eggs. Please
note that many pairs will not incubate their
eggs unless at least three eggs are present
in their nest.
Once incubation has begun, it should not
be ceased (or the embryos will die). Eggs
may be left unattended for brief periods of
time (up to about 15-30 minutes), however,
while the parent birds stretch their wings,
or take a break to eat and drink. Parents
instinctively know to gently rotate the
eggs beneath them periodically as they
incubate, which allows the embryos to
develop properly. In addition to warmth,
eggs require a certain humidity to survive.
This can be accomplished by providing
the parents with a bath (a shallow dish or
bowl of water) so that they may moisten the
eggs with their damp bellies after bathing.
Incubation generally takes 12-16 days,
depending on the species. The Species
section has incubation times for each
species listed separately.
Unfortunately parents do not always care
for their eggs correctly. Some birds will
accidentally puncture an egg (see below
for methods of egg repair), and if the
damage is bad enough, consume the egg.
This is why it is important to clip the birds’
toenails before they breed, and one of the
reasons to provide them with safe nesting
materials. Other pairs suffer from other
parenting problems: overzealous nest
building may result in a nest with such a
shallow entrance that eggs are accidentally
knocked out (“tossed”) and fall to the floor
as the parents exit the nest. If these eggs
break, the parent birds may eat them.
Other overzealous nest builders may build
a nest on top of an existing clutch, burying
the eggs. Both of these problems can be
solved by limiting the amount of nesting
material available to your birds (if they seem
to be the type suffering from this problem).
Zebras are notorious for overstuffing their
nests with nesting material; the nest should
not be filled any higher than a half inch
below the entrance to the nest. If your pair
seems to suffer from “disappearing eggs,”
one of the above-mentioned scenarios is a
likely culprit. Clipping toenails and limiting
access to nesting materials should help
prevent the disappearance of eggs from
the nest.
If the parents do not seem attentive to
the eggs, it may be wise to place the
eggs under the care of foster parents or
to incubate them artificially, as described
below.
Performing Nest Checks
Finches, especially breeding finches,
should not be disturbed unnecessarily.
Hovering about and tampering with their
nest makes most finches very nervous and
my cause them to abandon their nest and
eggs. Some finches, however, will tolerate
occasional nest inspections, with some
pairs tolerating nest checks better than
others. Generally, the more domesticated
the species, the more tolerant they tend to
be. Zebras and society finches, for instance,
usually allow nest inspections, while other
more nervous species are better off left
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 25

alone. If you have had a pair abandon
their nest and eggs in the past, you should
probably not risk nest inspections with that
pair in the future.
That stated, occasional nest checks,
when done correctly, can help you gain
information about the status of the eggs.
If you have set up the breeding cage with
an external nest box that has a hinged top,
you will be able to perform the easiest and
least intrusive nest checks. Nests placed
inside of the enclosure are more difficult
to get to, so use your best judgment about
whether or not inspecting those nests is
worth risking the pair abandoning their
eggs.
Ideally, you should only inspect a nest when
both of the birds are outside of it. Hopefully
the nest is eye level to you so that you can
simply peer inside to see if eggs have been
laid yet, and if so, how many have been
laid. Try to avoid the temptation of hovering
about a breeding pair’s cage. The more
privacy you can give your birds, the better.
I recommend glancing into the nest from a
distance (if possible) once per day while
you are providing the birds with fresh food
and water. Record the dates that you see
each egg laid, and record the date that you
notice the pair begin incubation.
If you need to reach into the nest for any
reason (such as candling eggs for fertility
as described below), make sure to wash
your hands first, to be very gentle with the
eggs, and to make the nest check as short
as possible.
Candling Eggs
Egg Candling to accurately tell if an egg
is fertile or not, you must candle it. This is
a somewhat delicate procedure in which
a small light source (such as a small
flash light or an “egg candler” like the one
pictured to the right) is held up to an egg
on or after the fifth day of incubation to see
if any growth is evident. This is part of the
reason why keeping track of the incubation
start date is important. Do not attempt to
candle eggs if this is your birds’ first clutch
or if your birds have a tendency to abandon
their eggs upon being disturbed.
Candling eggs in a nest. If you are going
to candle, make sure you wash your hands
thoroughly. You should also make sure the
light source you are using is clean; good
hygiene is a must when handling eggs. The
candler should have a low-wattage (

egg as it grows larger. You should candle
all of the eggs on day 5 and again on day
10 of incubation, to see if the eggs have
developed further or if any embryos have
died within the egg. If the eggs are still
viable on day 10, you should see darkness
(the chick) covering most of the inside of
the egg.
Infertile Egg or Fertile Egg
Infertile or “clear” eggs will appear empty
except for a yellow yolk and the air pocket.
Occasionally, an embryo will die at an early
stage of life and nothing but a thin blood
ring will be visible within the egg. Wait a
few days and re-candle these eggs to be
sure that they are not developing. Some
breeders chose to eliminate these eggs,
but doing so may run the risk of causing the
parents to abandon the nest. Leaving at
least 3-4 eggs in the clutch will encourage
the pair to return to incubation, but there
is usually no harm in leaving infertile eggs
in the nest. You may wish to remove them
a few days after any fertile eggs have
hatched. If all of the eggs are clear, and
remain clear when they are re-candled a
few days later, they may be discarded. The
pair will probably want to start a new clutch,
but you should first address the reason that
their eggs are clear before you let them
attempt another clutch (see below).
To see what the inside of a fertile finch egg
looks like at 5 days of incubation, see the
image below:
See how it appears with lights off.
Candling eggs
Fertile Eggs: From Formation to Hatching
A cock and hen copulate and the cock
passes his ejaculate to the hen who stores
some of his sperm in her reproductive tract.
When the hen ovulates, some sperm is
released. A spermatozoa only has a very
short window of time to fertilize the ova,
as albumen (“egg white”) will be deposited
soon, which blocks entry of the sperm. The
fertilized ova (which has already begun
its development into an embryo) travels
through the reproductive tract of the hen,
first receiving the added albumen, then the
inner and outer shell membrane, followed by
water and electrolytes, and finally the shell.
The shell is created by calcium deposition
around the forming egg within the uterus.
The fertilized ova takes approximately 4
hours to travel to the uterus. Once in the
uterus, calcification of the egg’s shell takes
approximately 20 hours. This is why a hen
can only lay one egg per 24 hour period.
About 15 minutes after the first egg is
laid, the hen ovulates again and the
process is repeated. This is why the
hen lays a single egg at about the same
time each morning until her clutch is
complete.
Finches are never considered “pregnant,”
nor do they “carry eggs.” Once the ova
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 27

If an egg is viable, you will be able to see a network
of small red blood vessels, and possibly see the
developing embryo.
Egg CandlerTo accurately tell if an egg is fertile or
not, you must candle it. This is a somewhat delicate
procedure in which a small light source (such as a small
flash light or an “egg candler” is held up to an egg on
or after the fifth day of incubation to see if any growth is
evident.
is fertilized and the egg is formed, it is laid
and the embryo’s development is paused
until incubation begins. Complications can
occur at the time of egg laying, such as
“egg binding,” a condition where the hen
has formed the egg but cannot pass it. Egg
binding is a serious condition which should
be addressed immediately to save the life
of the egg bound hen (see Complications
& Troubleshooting). If the hen lays all of
her eggs successfully, the pair will begin to
incubate them (some pairs begin incubation
after the third or fourth egg is laid while
others wait until the clutch is complete).
Assuming that the embryo is genetically
fit, that the egg it is growing within contains
adequate nutrition, that the egg is being
incubated properly with the proper humidity,
and that no bacteria, fungi, or viruses have
infiltrated the egg, the embryo will resume
development. At about day 5 it should be
just large enough to be visualized during
candling. By day 12-16 (depending on the
species) the chick will be ready to hatch.
If the chick has positioned itself correctly
within the egg, it will use its small egg tooth
to pip a tiny hole near the larger end of the
egg (where the air sac is). The chick will
slowly rotate its way around, pipping as it
goes, until the “top” of the egg is freed and
the chick emerges. Normally chicks need
no assistance in doing this, and it is usually
in the chick’s best interest that you do not
interfere with a normal hatching process.
The chick may take from a half hour to well
over 24 hours to complete the hatching
process, depending on the species. The
parents usually discard of the egg shell
by consuming it. To learn more about the
further development of hatched chicks,
refer to Young (Hatchlings to Maturity).
Clear & Unhatched Eggs
If an egg fails to hatch, one of two things
must have happened: either the egg was
never fertilized in the first place, or the egg
was fertilized, but the embryo died before it
was able to hatch. Each of these scenarios
has many possible causes.
First consider the case of the unfertilized
(“clear”) egg. One suggested cause of
unfertilized eggs is sexual inexperience.
If birds are young or simply new to
breeding, it may be possible that they do
not yet understand all of the necessary
motions that must occur for copulation to
be successful. Another possible cause
is inappropriate pairing of birds. If you
accidentally paired two hens together,
or if you paired incompatible birds of the
opposite sex (which did not bond), they
will not mate nor produce fertile eggs.
Other poor husbandry practices may also
inhibit a pair from successfully copulating,
including: not supplying a proper nest, not
providing stable perches (for those birds
which mate on a perch), not furnishing
the enclosure with adequate visual
barriers between pairs, disturbing the
birds or aviary excessively, pairing birds
which are too young or too old to breed,
incorrect photoperiod (for birds housed
indoors), poor nutrition, and improper
temperature, humidity, and so forth (correct
environmental cues are important for
stimulating many species to breed). Most
of these problems can be overcome by
improving one’s husbandry practices.
Unfortunately, however, other causes of
infertile eggs still remain which may not be
as easy (or even possible) to fix, as they
are due to defects in the birds themselves.
Although rare, sterility or infertility is a
problem for some birds, both male and
female, and may be due to genetic causes
(as is the case with heavily inbred birds and
most hybrids or “mules”), environmental
causes (excessive heat, for instance), age,
or disorders (such as infection or tumours
of the reproductive organs). Additionally,
any physical handicap which impairs
a bird’s ability to copulate will prevent
successful fertilization of eggs. Examples
of such disadvantages include lameness,
obesity, and loss of toes.
Sometimes eggs are mistaken for infertile
when in fact they were fertilized but
suffered from early embryonic death. The
most common causes of early embryonic
death are incorrect temperature, jarring of
the egg, and lethal genetic traits. In most
cases, early embryonic death cannot be
visualized by candling of the egg. Instead,
an egg necropsy should be performed to
determine if the egg was infertile or if it in
fact suffered from early embryonic death.
The presence of a white blastodisc is
indicative of an infertile egg, whereas the
presence of a blastoderm and/or a blood
28 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

ing (as pictured to the right) is indicative
of early embryonic death. Your avian
veterinarian should be able to perform the
necropsy at your request. Breeding birds
in a temperate environment and refraining
from shaking the nest and eggs will help
to ensure that early embryonic death does
not occur. If you suspect that genetics are
at fault, you might try to pair your birds with
new (unrelated) mates.
Embryos do not always die during the early
stage of their development. They may
also die during the middle of incubation,
usually due to nutrient deficiencies. In fact,
eggs which are laid by a hen experiencing
vitamin deficiency (as is the case with
hens fed only unsupplemented seed diets)
are expected to die in the middle third of
incubation. Minor nutritional deficiencies
will become magnified as the breeding
season continues and the hen’s body
stores become even more depleted.
Although bacterial or fungal infections may
also cause an embryo to perish at this
stage of development, they are more often
responsible for late embryonic death.
In addition to infection, late embryonic
death may also be due to improper
incubation (lack of proper temperature
and/or humidity) or a genetic abnormality
(mainly malpositioning at the time of
hatch). Providing the parents with a clean
nest, a clean cage, and only fresh, clean
nesting material will help to prevent the
introduction of pathogens to the eggs.
It is also important that the parents be
healthy at the time of breeding, and that
no sick birds or fomites are allowed to
come into contact with the parents or
eggs. Hygiene and proper quarantine
procedures are essential to successful
breeding. Additionally, birds should be bred
in an area which is free of toxins: nicotine,
carbon monoxide, herbicides, insecticides
and even some antibiotics given to parent
birds can all lead to embryo fatality. If pairs
are being treated with medication, wait until
they are finished with the regimen to breed
them.
Infertile or “clear” eggs will appear empty
except for a yellow yolk and the air pocket.
Occasionally, an embryo will die at an early
stage of life and nothing but a thin blood ring
will be visible within the egg.
Complications can occur at the time of egg laying, such as “egg
binding,” a condition where the hen has formed the egg but can
not pass it. Egg binding is a serious condition which should be
addressed immediately to save the life of the egg bound hen
In cases where eggs were fertilized but
failed to hatch, an egg necropsy and
culture of the contents should be performed
by an experienced avian veterinarian to
determine the probable cause, enabling
you to make any needed adjustments to
your breeding program to prevent further
unhatched eggs. If a pattern of embryonic
death is witnessed (e.g. 1/4 or 1/16 of the
eggs die) and no other cause is found,
suspect lethal genetic combinations. Also
be aware that fertility and hatchability of
the eggs varies with the age of the parents.
Egg Repair
Fertile eggs with small puncture holes
or thin cracks may be candidates for egg
repair. The sooner you repair the egg after
it has been damaged, the better. Before
handling any egg, always wash and dry
your hands. Eggs which have had their
shell compromised are very susceptible
to entry by pathogens which can kill
a developing embryo. Good hygiene,
therefore, is a must. Apply a very small
amount of nontoxic Elmer’s white glue
to a clean Q-tip and spread it gently and
thinly over the crack or hole. (Surgical glue
may be substituted for Elmer’s). If the hole
is too large to cover in this way, you may
use a combination of Elmer’s glue and
non-dyed tissue paper to patch the hole.
Be very careful to only cover the smallest
area possible with the glue, so that the
rest of the egg shell can still breathe. If
you clog too many of the tiny pores within
the eggshell, the chick will suffocate. Allow
the thin layer of glue covering the crack
or hole to dry between coats, as several
coats may be needed. Once the crack or
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 29

and embryonic death. Instead, alternate
between rotating eggs 180 degrees, and
then counter-rotating them 180 degrees
during the next turning. Always be gentle
and slow when turning eggs. Automatic
egg turners may be purchased to fit most
commercial incubators and egg sizes,
and are preferable to manual turning of
the eggs. If you are hand turning eggs, I
find that it helps to use a nontoxic, finepoint
marker to label one side of the egg
with an “X” with an arrow pointing right and
the other side with an “O” and an arrow
pointing left.
On the fifth day of incubation, you may be able to witness the embryo’s heart beating.
Candling eggs which have been incubated longer than 5 days will show increased
development: the blood vessels may appear larger and cover a larger area, and
eventually the chick will fill up most of the space within the egg
Lastly, egg and incubator hygiene is a
must. First, always wash your hands prior
to handling eggs. Second, do not get
eggs wet as this may remove the naturally
protective cuticle which surrounds them.
Third, clean and disinfect the incubator
before and after each batch of eggs is
placed within it. Lastly, clean and disinfect
water trays (within incubators which have
them) daily.
hole is sealed sufficiently, allow the glue
to dry and replace the egg in the nest. Hot
dripped beeswax or paraffin wax may be
used in place of glue (multiple coats are
not needed, and it “dries” [cools] more
quickly than Elmer’s glue). If possible, try to
complete the egg repair procedure within
a half hours’ time so that the egg may be
returned to incubation quickly. In a few
days, candle the egg to see if the chick is
still developing or if it appears to have died.
Please be aware that chicks which survive
egg repair may need assistance during
the hatching process, depending on the
location of the glue or wax seal. If the seal
is in the way of the pipping area, you may
need to help the chick pip through it.
Artificial Incubation of Eggs
First and foremost, please understand
that incubation of an egg is a very delicate
and precise process. Embryos will only
develop within a very narrow temperature
range: at higher temperatures within this
range, they develop more quickly, and
at lower temperatures within this range,
they develop more slowly. Temperatures
outside of the range (by as little as a single
degree Celsius) will result in embryo death.
If an embryo develops too quickly, it may
be too weak to hatch. If it does hatch, it
will probably die because embryos which
develop too quickly tend to suffer from a
greater incidence of physical deformities
(such as curled toes and scissor bills) and
still have exposed yolk sacs at the time
of hatch (under normal circumstances,
the remainder of the yolk sac is drawn
into the body prior to hatch and serves
as an energy source for the first hours of
life). If an embryo develops too slowly,
on the other hand, it may suffer from a
delayed hatch and an abnormal physical
appearance. Therefore an embryo must be
incubated at just the right temperature in
order to develop correctly.
Temperature is not the only essential
parameter in incubation, however.
Humidity is also very important, and is most
critical during the first third of incubation. If
humidity is too low, an embryo will become
dehydrated, possibly resulting in kidney
failure and stunted growth. Likewise, if
humidity is too high, the air cell in the egg
will be small (if it becomes too small, the
embryo will die late in incubation) and
any chick which does hatch may have an
exposed yolk sac among other physical
abnormalities. Exposed yolk sacs at the
time of hatch are problematic because
they leave the chick more susceptible to
infection; if a chick hatches with an exposed
yolk sac, it should be rushed to your avian
veterinarian for immediate correction.
The third critical factor in incubating eggs
is turning them. Doing this is necessary
to prevent the contents of the egg from
sticking to the inside of the shell. During
natural incubation, parent birds will turn the
eggs on average once every 35 minutes.
For artificial incubation, turning the eggs an
odd number of times between five and eight
times a day should suffice. Not turning often
enough may lead to embryo death (either
early or late) among other complications.
Additionally, eggs should not be rotated in
the same direction each time, as this may
lead to internal tearing of the membranes
With incubation requirements being so
precise, it is impractical to attempt to build
your own incubator at home. Simply stated,
placing eggs under a lamp or attempting
to hold them in the palm of your hand will
not work. Instead, purchase a commercial
incubator. Because such a purchase needs
to be made well in advance (in order to
purchase, receive, set up, and test that the
incubator is functioning prior to using it), it
may be advisable to invest in an incubator
before you set your birds up to breed. This
way, you will have a backup plan in case
eggs need to be rescued or maintained
until a foster pair can be acquired.
Commercial incubators should be
purchased with temperature and humidity
measuring devices (preferably two of each
so that they may be standardized against
each other), an automatic egg turner,
and humidity control (usually water pans
located within the incubator). If you can find
one, look for an incubator that is a “forced
air incubator.” Incubators of this type move
hot air around, distributing it throughout
the inside of the incubator, creating a more
evenly heated environment. At least one
finch enthusiast has had good success
with the Turn-X incubator, as documented
on eFinch.comExternal Site.
Once you have received and set up your
incubator, let it run for at least 30 days prior
to placing any eggs inside of it. This will
allow the temperature and humidity inside
of the incubator to stabilize, as well as to
allow you to make sure that it is functioning
properly. You may wish to leave it running
30 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

throughout the entire duration of the
breeding season, so that it will be primed
and ready in the event that eggs must be
unexpectedly rescued or incubated for any
other reason. Below you will find a table
summarizing the parameters for incubating
finch eggs, as well as a table for calculating
relative humidity inside of an incubator
using wet bulb readings (based on a dry
bulb reading of 37.5° C [99.5° F]).
Incubator Settings
Parameter Value
Temperature 37.5° C
Humidity 50-60% (wet bulb reading of 28.5°
C to 30.5° C)
# Of Turns per Day (if manual) 5 or 7
Incubation Length Varies per species (12-
16 days on average, see Specific Species)
Calculating Humidity from Wet Bulb
Readings (with Dry Bulb at 37.5° C)
Wet Bulb Approximate %
Humidity
28° C 48
29° C 53
30° C 58
31° C 63
32° C 68
33° C 73
34° C 79
35° C 85
36° C 91
37° C 97
Once eggs are due to hatch (the egg has
undergone drawdown or the chick has
pipped), cease turning the eggs. This
usually occurs 24-48 hours prior to the end
of incubation (in other words, if a species
is known to have a 16-day long incubation
period, stop turning the eggs on day 14 or
15). The chick will rotate itself 360° within
the egg, cutting as it goes until it opens
the top of the egg and emerges. This may
take many hours. Do not attempt to assist
a hatch unless you repaired an egg and
the site of repair is in the way of the chick’s
pip or cutting area. Several physiological
changes are occurring as the chick hatches
(see Anatomy), and assisting the hatch may
interrupt these and lead to weakening of
the chick. In most cases, assisting a hatch
does more harm than good. If, however,
you feel strongly that your chick is in need
of assistance during hatching, call your
avian veterinarian for advice.
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 31

MACAWS
Handrearing Macaws
By Rick Jordan and Mark Moore
From A guide to… Macaws as Pet
and Aviary Birds
When it comes to breeding Macaws
an essential key to their success
is the handrearing process. The
handrearing process can be a difficult
task as young chicks are very valnuarbale
to stress and sickness. In this article we
will cover all the import aspects you need
to know when it comes to handrearing
these incredible parrots and hopefully
these techniques will help to incease your
success with Macaw chicks!
Before pulling baby macaws from the nest,
you will need some nursery equipment
and supplies. Depending on the age of
the chicks, you might need a brooder to
keep them warm, syringes or spoons to
administer food, some type of hand feeding
formula, bedding disinfectants, medical
supplies and paper towels.
Choose a hand rearing diet that has
been proven safe and effective for baby
Macaws. There are several commercially
manufactured brands that are dependable,
or you may opt to make your own from a
favourite recipe. The formula may be the
most important ‘equipment’ in the nursery.
Every baby bird is different. Some of
them adjust to being fed by a human in
only a minute or two and others may take
days to get used to formulas and feeding
methods. This is often age-dependant -
younger birds adjust faster. Some babies
accept and like a syringe, while others may
do better if spoon-fed. Be sure to have all
the necessary equipment on hand before
bringing a baby into the nursery.
Remember there is no substitute for
experience! If you don’t know how to feed a.
baby macaw, get some lessons by working
for a breeder or someone who feeds baby
macaws on a regular basis. The table
details suggested items that you should
have available before attempting to brood
and feed a baby Macaw.
Feeding Response
The term ‘feeding response’ refers to the
action of bobbing the head and accepting
32 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

food being offered to a baby parrot. Macaws
generally have a very strong feeding
response when they are healthy and
their brooding environment is maintained
correctly.
Most baby macaws will respond at feeding
time when touched anywhere on the head
or beak. The proper way to trigger the
response necessary for proper feeding
and swallowing is to gently touch the fleshy
pads located on the sides of the upper and
lower mandibles. Right-handed feeders
may find it easier to use the forefinger
and thumb of the left hand to solicit the
response, while feeding with the right hand.
Birds that respond to feeding are usually
swallowing correctly.
The first-time handfeeder attempting to
feed a baby macaw may be surprised at
the vigorous feeding response exhibited.
Macaws often jump toward the syringe
when touched, and honk and vocalise
loudly. Older birds will spread their wings
in an attempt to keep the other babies from
competing for formula. This is all quite
normal and usually signifies that a baby
bird is doing well.
The difference between a response, and
The first time formula is offered to a parent-started macaw chick, it can be fairly thick
in consistency. There is no need to feed thin formula unless you are dealing with a
dehydrated bird.
one that is frantic and desperate, should be
obvious to an experienced hand feeder. In
many cases a baby macaw in trouble will
already be thin or losing weight, or may
not be digesting food properly. This causes
them to become very hungry all the time
and they lunge desperately for food when
approached or touched. If there are signs
of illness, it is time to visit the veterinarian.
Frantic feeding responses are a sign of
trouble. As mentioned, it can be a sign
of illness, but it can also be an indication
that the formula is not well balanced. Baby
macaws that feel hungry, even if they have
a full crop, act very differently to those that
are feeling well and satisfied. Starving
macaws may approach feeding time or
any human touch with ‘frantic violence’, a
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 33

sign that the bird is not getting sufficient
nutrition. Strangely enough, birds that
are starving or are deficient in nutrition
may also have slow-digesting crops. This
adds to the desperation the bird feels
and causes it to lunge frantically, or even
attempt to hurt siblings that might compete
for the syringe full of food. If it is suspected
that a baby bird is starving (even though
being fed regularly)it may be wise to have a
veterinarian perform a bacterial culture and
analysis to see if some bacteria is slowing
digestion.
Baby macaws that are pulled from the parental nest to be handled are a bit easier to
handle. Depending on the age hand feeding begins, the crop is often already large
enough to hold food for several hours, thus reducing the frequency of feeding and the
stress levels on the aviculturist.
First Feeds
Incubator-hatched chicks
When is an incubator-hatched baby
macaw ready to accept food for the first
time? When it is strong enough to stand
up and solicit food by exhibiting a feeding
response. Newly hatched chicks do need
some recovery time after the struggle of
hatching, but most are ready to eat within
hours of emerging from the warm fingers
on the fleshy pads of the beak a indicating
it is ready to eat.
Usually the first few times a baby macaw
is fed, the formula is offered as a diluted,
thin mix. The extra water helps to hydrate
the baby and keeps the digestive tract
moving properly. Feeding extremely thick
food at such a young age will often cause
crop stasis. Adding a drop or two of water
to the crop contents until it is digested may
sure help to offer move things along, but
be cautious when feeding water to a newly
hatched baby. Make sure to offer thin
formula or water one drop at a time, and
allow the baby to swallow before adding
more. It is very easy to aspirate liquids into
the lungs of a new chick.
Special ‘day one’ formulas are available.
These usually contain extra vitamins and
perhaps digestive enzymes. They are great
for the first few days and help the chicks to
gain strength but should not be fed on longterm
basis. Too many vitamins can be just
as dangerous as not enough.
Macaws often jump toward the syringe when touched, and honk and vocalise loudly.
Older birds will spread their wings in an attempt to keep the other babies from competing
for formula.
Incubator-hatched macaw chicks may
need to be fed every hour for the first 10-
12 times. As they gain strength, the formula
can be thickened slightly to slow digestion
times. For the first two days, expect to be
feeding every 2-3 hours on an 18-hour
schedule. Long periods of time where there
is no food in the digestive system of a chick
causes dehydration and eventually crop
stasis. Monitoring weight is the easiest way
to assess if the chick is doing well. After
the first day, baby Macaws should not lose
weight-they should gain each day, even if
only a gram or two.
34 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

Plastic Clip
Bird Rings
When is an incubator-hatched baby macaw ready to accept food for the first time? When
it is strong enough to stand up and solicit food by exhibiting a feeding response. Newly
hatched chicks do need some recovery time after the struggle of hatching, but most are
Article by Ginger
Wolnik
ready to eat within hours of emerging from the warm fingers on the fleshy pads of the
beak a indicating it is ready to eat.
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As days progress, the crop will grow to hold
more food at each feeding. This is normal
and eventually helps to reduce the number
of times a baby needs to be fed.
Parent-hatched chicks
Baby macaws that are pulled from the
parental nest to be handled are a bit easier
to handle. Depending on the age hand
feeding begins, the crop is often already
large enough to hold food for several hours,
thus reducing the frequency of feeding and
the stress levels on the aviculturist. The
first time formula is offered to a parentstarted
macaw chick, it can be fairly thick
in consistency. There is no need to feed
thin formula unless you are dealing with a
dehydrated bird.
Formulas
Over the years food formulas for baby
macaws have changed dramatically.
During the 1970s and ‘80s many breeders
created their own formulas, often using the
types of foods they fed to the parent birds.
Homemade slurry may have included
primate chow as a base, with added
human baby foods, peanut butter, other nut
butters, vitamins, water, fruits, vegetables,
or basically anything an adult bird might
choose to feed to its young. These
ingredients were blended smoothly enough
to go through a syringe with ease. Although
often unbalanced, many homemade
formulas did prove to be effective and baby
macaws were successfully reared.
As aviculture became a worldwide
endeavour, the need for some
standardisation of formulas evolved.
Several commercial parrot food companies
became interested and began to research
the nutritional needs of baby macaws and
other parrots. Eventually commercial hand
rearing formulas became available and
helped to revolutionise the industry.
Today, most people who hand rear
parrots use some type of commercially
manufactured rearing diet. It is easier and
provides scientifically researched nutrition
rather than guess work. Some commercial
diets do have their issues periodically since
they are manufactured in large processing
plants. Sometimes extra vitamins or some
other ingredient may be added by mistake.
Observing the chicks to make sure they
are growing correctly is the best defence
against any variables.
Protein and Fat Levels
What is proper nutrition for a baby macaw?
Experience has shown us that macaws fed
from day one (hatch) grow best on formulas
with a crude protein of 18-22% and fat
levels of 12-22%. Baby macaws that have
the advantage of being parent-fed for a few
weeks will do well on lower levels while
incubator-hatched chicks grow best on
middle to high-range levels. Commercial
diets usually try to stay in the lower ranges
so as not to exceed tolerances. Therefore
most breeders add a little fat and protein
to these instant diets by stirring in some
peanut butter or other high-fat, high-protein
foods. Be cautious whenever adjusting
formulas for baby parrots, however, as
excessive protein or vitamins can be
dangerous and cause severe long-term
health issues.
Formulas with excessive protein amounts
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www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 35

means allowing them to interact with birds
of their kind or, if no other macaws are
available in the nursery, encourage them to
play with other parrots such as cockatoos
or Amazons. This seems to be more
important in the later growth stages, before
and during the weaning stage. In reality, it
has made many nursery chores easier as
the older macaws will often teach younger
birds how to wean and eat from a bowl.
The final result is that the birds are more
stable. They do not crave human attention
24 hours a day, and they know how to play
with toys and keep themselves busy rather
than screaming or pulling out feathers to
obtain human attention.
Group or clutch socialisation is somewhat
common now and it will probably prove to
be effective in reducing the number of pet
birds that simply cannot adjust to a captive
life. Fears that a ‘bird-socialised’ parrot
would bite or be obnoxious have proven
to be unwarranted. In fact, this new way
of socialising baby macaws is producing
more stable birds that function well as
pets, and still know how to breed, given the
opportunity.
Every baby bird is different. Some of them adjust to being fed by a human in only a
minute or two and others may take days to get used to formulas and feeding methods.
This is often age-dependant - younger birds adjust faster
fed over an extended period can cause
birds to grow long limbs and thin bodies.
Healthy baby macaws do not look like this.
In fact, parent-fed baby macaws are often
rounded, fat babies with shorter limbs and
wings.
Monitoring body weight as chicks develop
is a good way to judge the effectiveness of
a formula. Baby birds should gain weight
daily through their growth time, up until
the beginning of the weaning process,
when most healthy baby parrots are
about 15-20% heavier than their parents.
Genetics also play a valuable role in size,
so an overall health assessment is more
important than eventual body weight.
Socialisation
In the past decade, the proper socialisation
of young parrots has become the subject
of many unofficial studies and a few good
magazine articles. It seems that the old
way of spoiling baby parrots and treating
them like ‘puppies’ does not necessarily
help them adapt to a life in captivity as
adult birds. In fact, some species of parrots
become so altered by this anthropomorphic
socialization that they grow up neurotic or
nervous and may not even know they are
birds at all. Isolation was used in the past to
make baby macaws enjoy or crave human
interaction. They were handfed individually
and separated from all other parrots in the
nursery for weaning. This was supposed to
make them more human-like and increase
their ability and willingness to mimic the
human voice. It may have worked, but
when some pet macaws were placed in a
breeding situation, they did not know what
to do. Also, some pet birds became very
frustrated when they were left alone all day
with no human interaction because they
had become accustomed to being fussed
over.
The current attitude towards socialisation
for young parrots is to make sure that they
interact with other parrots as they mature
and wean. Raising baby Macaws today
means allowing them to be birds and act
like birds. Proper or accepted socialisation
As with any animal husbandry, the
processes used are often part of a
learning curve. We now know that juvenile
socialisation is important and we have
become aware of the need for enrichment
in a companion parrot’s life as well.
Preventing future behavioural problems
This subject is certainly one of true debate.
What makes a pet parrot so neurotic or
fearful that it plucks its own feathers out or
chews them to shreds? Although macaws
are not really known for this type of activity
as adults, there are a few that fall into
the habit, and breaking that cycle can be
very difficult. It seems that cockatoos and
some African species are more prone to
becoming plucking or mutilating parrots
than Macaws.
Many of the behavioural issues we see
in pet parrots these days are actually
caused by the current environment, and
not necessarily by the way in which they
were reared. In fact, many parent-reared
or partially parent-reared pet birds are just
as prone to these undesirable behaviours
as handfed birds. To fully eliminate these
behaviours in pet parrots will require work
by the breeders, hand rearing experts, and
ultimately the pet owners themselves.
Building confidence in the birds we
produce can be difficult, but it seems to be
a key factor in behavioural issues. Fearful
(insecure) birds often become biting or
36 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

Before pulling baby macaws from the nest, you will need some nursery equipment
and supplies. Depending on the age of the chicks, you might need a brooder to keep
them warm, syringes or spoons to administer food, some type of hand feeding formula,
bedding disinfectants, medical supplies and paper towels.
screaming companion birds. Biting or
screaming birds then get abandoned and
sent back into the system through some
type of rescue operation or volunteer. Over
and over, the bird is subjected to situations
where humans are ‘trying’ to make it
happy and resolve behavioural issues.
The lucky ones are returned to breeders
and allowed to live out their lives without
the daily expectations of being the perfect
companion.
This is not to say that all pet birds should
be recycled back into a breeding situation,
only that we, as professionals, need to
recognise if this is the best solution for
the problem. Birds are all individuals
and, although they will exhibit some
innate behaviours, much of what they do
and how they react is learned from their
many experiences with humans, their
environment and interactions with other
birds. A bird that is not a good pet for one
person may be the perfect companion for
someone else-after several attempts to
find the right situation, someone has got to
step up and make the right decisions.
Preparing baby macaws for their future life
in captivity is an important task for which
we, unfortunately, do not have all the
answers. Our new ways of socialisation
have certainly helped to reduce behavioural
issues-an indication that we are on the right
path-but owners and companions need
some education as well. We cannot expect
any parrot to behave the way we want it
to behave without providing it with some
guidance. There is no substitute for a welltrained,
properly socialised, companion
parrot, and although ‘training’ is sometimes
considered a bad word, it is exactly what is
needed. Pet parrots need to know what to
expect of us and what we expect of them
because this builds confidence in the bird.
Well-adjusted companion birds are those
that know what you want them to do when
you issue a command such as ‘step up’.
They are also willing to play and entertain
themselves when you are not around.
Birds such as this evolve through a system
of juvenile ‘games’ and interactions with
other birds and humans. They have to be
taught how to play and they must learn to
trust their human keepers.
Punishment is not acceptable-at least not
the punishment we normally associate
with training our own children. A system of
rewards works best for training parrots, and
we call this ‘positive reinforcement’. If they
have a favourite food or a favourite perch,
or even a favoured activity such as dancing
to loud music, use this as a reward. Pet
owners must know ahead of time that
when they acquire a parrot it will require
some work and invested time to become
the stable, well-behaved companion they
expect. Some of this work can begin
with the breeders as well. Breeders must
educate themselves as to the best methods
to build confidence in young parrots and
begin to introduce them to situations and
training that will benefit their future life in
captivity.
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www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 37

LOVEBIRDS
How to successfully pair
Lovebirds together.
Tony Silva
When we talk about animals it is
not very common to think about
“long-lasting love”. We, humans,
think that that kind of feeling is only meant
to be for superior beings, but not for
animals.
Nevertheless, some species can stay with
the same partner for a long time and even
a life time. The majority of those “faithful”
animals are birds, but, there are also some
mammals that share their lives with their
partners; for example, elephants, wolves
and killer whales. Otters are an interesting
example of this phenomenon as they do
everything with their partner: they live,
travel, chase, play and some of them even
sleep together holding “hands”.
In case of Lovebirds, they are gregarious
animals that live in pairs within flocks with
a clear hierarchical structure. In nature,
many of the different mutations present in
lovebirds bred in captivity do not exist –at
most we can see dark-factored lovebirds–.
They are the true image of an ancestral
bird.
The Need of Living in Pairs.
As we already mentioned in numerous
occasions, lovebirds have a strong
reproductive instinct. Breeding gives
meaning to their lives and that is one of
the problems breeders face every single
breeding season. Immediately after finishing
one clutch they just want to start breeding
again, then as summer starts they want to
keep going. Their instinct is so powerful that
only we can control how many times they
breed so their health is not affected.
As we are not going to free them so that
nature can control their reproductive
instinct, it then becomes our duty to make
their lives as similar as possible to the life
they could have had as wild birds. We
have to make sure that they can develop
the three vital functions inherent to every
lovebird: feeding, socializing and breeding.
Assuming that all the animals we keep in
captivity are well-nourished, we will then
38 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

focus in the other two basic functions. As
we already said, socializing is crucial. It is
vital that they interact with their environment
and other birds of the same species. To
make this possible, we will provide them
with a nice big space and the company of
other lovebirds.
There are two types of combinations that even if at first
they do not present any incompatibility, they would not
be interesting for us as one of them will make “cover” the
other.
Let’s Focus On The Next Function:
Reproduction.
It is very common for new owners to
ask about having a single lovebird as a
pet because they do not want to have a
pair that would end up breeding. Some
breeders’ advice about this matter would
be to get two lovebirds of the same sex so
they can socialize without breeding.
Lovebirds, as the word indicates, are the
birds of love. Place yourself in front of an
aviary of lovebirds and you will witness the
beauty of their life in the colony.
Technical Details: Mating.
No doubt, the best pairs are those that find
each other spontaneously. When breeding
in an aviary, we will witness that, little by
little, they will start separating from their
parents and start eating by themselves.
When they are about 60 days old, lovebirds
start looking for a mate. As soon as they
establish a strong bond with their mate,
they become completely independent from
their parents and siblings.
Breeders do not always do the right thing;
sometimes we are responsible of not letting
them choose their pair so they end up with
one of our choice.
In my case, when two lovebirds choose to
be together and I check that their genetics
and mutations are compatible, they stay
together.
Nevertheless, in many occasions, breeders
want to get certain offspring so we need a
male of a specific mutation to mate with a
female of another specific mutation.
As we already mentioned in numerous occasions, lovebirds have a strong reproductive
instinct. Breeding gives meaning to their lives and that is one of the problems breeders
face every single breeding season.
In this case, contrary to what I said before,
we would need to use a cage; although,
it would be for a short period of time. The
time they would need to spend in the cage
would depend on the age of the lovebirds.
That is to say, a young male and female
would need very little time to mate, but two
adults will take longer. In the case of the
adults, it would be even advisable to keep
them in the cage until they breed for the
first time.
We would also need to use a cage if we
want two adults (or one adult and a younger
one) to mate. We need to take our time as
it is not a good idea to rush in this situation.
The best will be to use a breeding cage
with a divider. We will place the male in one
side and the female in the other until we
notice that they start interacting with each
other, especially the female. Females are
more dangerous in this kind of situation, so
if one of them gets hurt, it would probably
be the male. We use two cages to let them
see each other for a while. When it comes
to placing them together, do not place
the male in the females cage. It is always
advisable to do it the other way around,
placing the female in the cage of the male.
Females are very territorial and they will
feel they are being invaded.
We will not have any problems if we just
keep them in the cage, and we limit their
interaction with other lovebirds. This way
we will be sure that they will end up mating.
Regardless of whether we use a cage,
or an aviary for breeding, we may come
across a pair of our choice that does not
bond. This case is not very usual, but it
happens. There are more chances for this
to happen in the aviary than in the cage.
Being in the cage they will get used to
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 39

As we are not going to free them so nature controls their reproductive instinct, it is our duty to make their lives as similar as possible to
the life they could have had as wild birds.
each other sooner or later. In the aviary it
is better to choose another pair for them
until they are completely independent from
each other.
Technical Details: Incompatibility.
There are not many incompatibilities when
it comes to pairing lovebirds, but we will
point out the most notorious.
Although it seems logical, the first thing we
should check is whether the pair is a male
and a female or not. To determine their sex
the safest method is DNA sexing.
The male and female must be of the
same species. We keep seeing many
hybrids, some of them are even sterile.
This is something we should avoid at all
costs. Also, having lovebirds of different
species breeding in the same aviary it
is not advisable even if we see that their
coexistence is possible. Unfaithfulness,
nests invasions, attacks to other offsprings
and quarrels were some of the problems
I faced when I first started breeding
personatus and roseicollis in the same
aviary. But, with that being said, some
breeders have even exchanged chicks
from different species without problems.
Other incompatibilities that may arise are
related to the mutations of the male and
female. There are two main mutational
incompatibilities that we should avoid.
If both the male and female, of a pair,
are Ino and both have two Dark Factors.
Ino mutation can cause the chicks to be
weaker and the two Dark Factors can affect
the structure of the feathers.
In both cases, chicks will have the same
mutation as their parents, Ino mutation in
the first example and two Dark Factors in
the second.
Some breeders doubt whether Ino
mutation can cause any weakness to the
chicks. In fact, this will depend on how
many ancestors of the chicks have the
same mutation and also will depend on
the species; for example the Agapornis
Roseicoillis is the species less prompt to
suffer this condition.
There are two types of combinations
that even if at first they do not present
any incompatibility, they would not be
interesting for us as one of them will “cover”
the other. For instance, if we have an Ino
lovebird that is also Marbled or Dilute
we will not be able to notice these last
mutations, or at least not completely. There
are also some unaesthetic combinations
like Marbled and Dilute mutations together.
As both mutations reduce the eumelanin
the resulting colour would be dull.
Technical Details: Recommended
Combinations.
As we mentioned before, there are
combinations that may not be incompatible,
but which results would not be very
convenient. A good example would be the
combination of a Blue male with a Green
40 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

Assuming that all the animals we keep in captivity are well-nourished, we will then focus
in the other two basic functions. As we already said, socializing is crucial. It is vital that
they interact with their environment and other birds of the same species.
Opaline Ino female. If this pair does not
carry those mutations, all the offspring will
be green. All will carry the mutations, but
they will look the same.
That is why, before making a pair, it is
very important to know what the offspring
will look like so we can choose our pair
correctly. Knowing their mutations is
crucial.
This is always the case with recessive
mutations. For example, a Marbled
Orange-faced lovebird will not be a good
combination for a pair that has not got the
same mutations.
Once we have taken into account all these
considerations, all we need to do is to
provide them with their nests in autumn
until late spring. We will then witness, how
females choose a nest, males protect them
and, how life goes on.
Regardless of whether we use a
cage or an aviary for breeding,
we may come across with a pair
of our choice that does not bond.
This case is not very usual, but it
happens.
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 41

PET BIRDS
Musings from an aviculturist
by Tony Silva
My body shivered incessantly. The wind was making my
already dried lips chap and the ground was covered in
a fresh layer of snow. As I walked, the snow became
compacted as I moved from aviary to aviary. The cockatoos,
macaws and amazons were outside playing and resting rather
than indoors in a shelter where the weather was warmer and
the wind was absent. How could parrots tolerate such low
levels? Many may be surprised to learn that most aviculturists
across Europe have aviaries with both an indoor shelter and a
corresponding outdoor section, which the birds access through
a chute that can be closed to contain them in either side. It is
not uncommon for parrots to experience weather that is -10ºC
in winter. Kaj Herse in Denmark, for example, has a massive
aviary containing Australian parrots ranging from Budgerigars
(Melopsittacus undulatus) to Red-tailed Black Cockatoos
(Calyptorhynchus banksii). The birds remain outside year
round. During a recent visit he also showed me his Amazons,
which range from the common Mexican Red-head (Amazona
viridigenalis) to the rare Red-tailed (Amazona brasiliensis).
They all shared one common denominator: the birds had a
“Breeding parrots is not just
having two birds of opposite sex
together. It requires that many
factors be considered, that both
their physical and biological
needs be met and that the
aviculturist show the necessary
commitment to achieve success.”
42 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

shelter but were exposed to the prolonged
bitter cold without any detrimental effect.
Parrots cannot be abruptly moved from a
warm to a cold room. Rather they need to
adapt. This transition allows a thicker layer
of down and feathers to develop. Their diet
will also require a higher fat level. This fat
provides the calories their bodies need to
survive the cold.
Red-Tailed Black
Cockatoo Bird
In subtropical areas aviculturists tend
to become extremely nervous when the
mercury drops even slightly. If the birds
are protected from the wind and rain, have
been outdoors sufficiently long to allow
their bodies to adapt to the climatic change
and receive the proper diet, they will not be
adversely affected by the cold.
Heat stroke is in my opinion much deadlier.
Across parts of the Asia and the Middle East
the summers can be brutal. The birds then
struggle to survive in the stagnant heat.
They must have sufficient water to remain
hydrated, an ability to cool their core body
temperature and shade. Fog misters are
an excellent means of cooling birds, but
pans for bathing should also be available.
Good air flow is also vital. I can recall
visiting an aviculturist in Arizona during an
extremely hot day. The birds were panting
heavily, sat on the aviary floor and looked
lethargic. They were approaching a critical
temperature threshold. As I scanned the
aviaries I realized how many things were
wrong: The water pans were in the sun,
causing the water to become excessively
hot and deter bathing and drinking, and the
air was stagnant. Solid partitions between
the aviaries thwarted airflow. I quickly
grabbed a hose, turned it on and waited
for the water to cool and then sprayed the
birds. I reacted because to me the birds
were suffering.
As cage birds, parrots are extremely
tolerant. They can survive decades on
a deficient diet, extremely cold and very
high temperatures and even the inability to
bathe, but these stressors compromise the
body. They make the risk of illness escalate
exponentially.
Budgies in aviary.
I often become red faced with anger when
I see someone feeding their Lories seed.
Some species can eat dry seeds, but
these are the minority. All species require a
nectar. They can be fed a dry food, though
in my opinion such diets invariably lead to
health issues. When someone asks me
about feeding a dry food exclusively my
response is always the same: Do you want
your birds to live 5 or 30 years?
Diet is one of the most important factors
that an aviculturist can control. On a good
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 43

diet, parrots can prove long-lived. They
will reproduce for many years. On a poor
diet, breeding results will be poor and as
the female´s body loses condition, results
will wane progressively until either she is
dead or no longer reproduces. A good diet
is NOT feeding the birds a bowl of seeds
and occasionally cucumber, sugarcane
or apple. A healthy diet contains a large
component of vegetables, including
cooked carrots, pumpkin and American
sweet potatoes, all an excellent source
of beta carotene; steamed beets and
broccoli; a large assortment of greens,
including edible weeds like dandelion; hot
peppers (which are rich in vitamin A); peas,
corn (not the sweet varieties), pea pods;
etc. Fruit can be added, but only in small
amounts. Select either tropical fruits likes
papaya, guava or mango, for example,
or heirloom varieties that are not sweet. I
stress the importance of vegetables over
fruit because wild parrots have not evolved
to eat excessively sweet, ripe fruit, which
in the wild are the target of fruit eating
mammals and other frugivorous birds; to
avoid the competition the parrots eat the
fruits, pods and seeds green. Eating these
items green exposes the birds to many
toxins, which the plants produce to deter
predation before the seeds reach their
optimum germination state, but the parrots
evacuate these by eating bark and soil.
The diet of parrots can contain other dietary
components. These include sprouting
seeds and grains, pulses (which need to be
boiled or sprouted and then lightly boiled
to destroy toxic compounds) and whole
grain bread or the so-called bird breads.
Egg food is also used by many European
breeders and can consists of boiled egg,
grated carrot, chopped endive or other
greens, whole bread crumbs and wheat
germ or any of these and a commercial
egg food preparation. When feeding these
highly perishable foods care must be taken
to avoid spoilage. When you have this
concern, feed the commercial egg foods
dry. Germinating grains and seeds are an
excellent food but they can also be deadly
as a result of bacterial blooms if they are
not well washed.
Many aviculturists on Facebook contact
me asking why their birds do not breed. In
most cases it is because their diet is below
even an acceptable standard. Look at your
diet in detail before you start questioning
why your birds are not breeding.
Nesting box sizes are another point worth
discussing. Wild parrots select small, deep
and dark cavities. Whether they nest in a
tree hole, the ground or a cliff face, they
always look for a small entrance and dark
cavity to deter predation.
This point can be placed into perspective
with an example from a friend in Florida.
He maintains a pair of Major Mitchell´s
Cockatoo (Cacatua Lophochroa
leadbeateri) in a covered lanai. The pair
was given what he thought was a beautiful
nest— a cavity large enough for a person
to fit inside. He was shocked when the pair
nested in a ceramic vase nestled between
plants. The vase was small and met the
security requirements of the pair. I have
seen many macaws excavate a hole in the
floor of a walk in aviary rather than nest in
a large drum available.
For almost all parrots, provide a nest that
is not very large in terms of width and
length but with a great depth. This depth is
important because it provides a dark nest
bottom. Many pairs that break their eggs
will cease to do so when such a deep nest
is offered.
Nests with a small width and length and
a great depth are also preferred by many
species. When offered they are often the
key to inducing breeding. As an example,
we have a pair of Senegal Parrots
(Poicephalus senegalus) that just nested
in a nest 25 cm square and 90 cm deep.
They had been offered by their previous
owner a nest 30 cm square and 35 cm
deep. They did not even bother looking
inside. Within a few months of coming to
me they had started nesting. This is not
because I waved some miraculous wand.
It was because I made the nest attractive.
In the wild nesting parrots typically have
stained beaks, head and chest feathers;
the feathers become stained from coming
into contact with tree sap and tannins.
This staining signifies they are actively
preparing the nest. They simply do not find
a suitable cavity and being laying. They
find a cavity and then spend weeks or even
months preparing it for nesting. They chew
the entrance, inner walls, extend the depth
and then kick out the chips of wood they
have chewed. This is why pairs in captivity
evict so much shavings, the common
nesting substrate. To kick out the shavings
is a simple process, but to prepare a nest
requires effort. This task is performed by
both sexes. As they spend time inside
the nest, the darkness begins to induce
gonadal development.
I have always added chunks of wood to
the nest. My objective is to add sufficient
wood to reach the nest entrance. This
focuses the attention of the pair towards
nest preparation. In cockatoos I believe
that it distracts the male from focusing
on the female to nest preparation. This
is important to deter male to female
aggression, injuries and even murder. The
wood also has an irresistible attraction,
which is often sufficiently great to induce
nesting in a pair that would have otherwise
not done so.
I do add shavings to a nest— but only if
the pair has eggs or young. The shavings
then keep the eggs from rolling around and
the nest hygienic from the droppings of the
young.
The diet of parrots can contain other dietary components. These include sprouting seeds
and grains, pulses (which need to be boiled or sprouted and then lightly boiled to destroy
toxic compounds) and whole grain bread or the so-called bird breads.
My nests are either made from wood or
metal, the latter with a wooden floor. I
detest the use of pots— a common nesting
receptacle in parts of Asia. Pots must be
cleaned every other day if they are to be
used, but most aviculturists are not so
inclined. They then become a fetid sewage
receptacle. The chicks, when examined,
44 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

often have deformed nails from the faeces
adhering to their nails.
Major Mitchell’s Cockatoos. Nesting box sizes are another point worth discussing. Wild
parrots select small, deep and dark cavities. Whether they nest in a tree hole, the ground
or a cliff face, they always look for a small entrance and dark cavity to deter predation.
Parrots are chewers. In no species is this
more evident than in Yellow-tailed Black
Cockatoos (Zanda funereus). They will
literally demolish a thick perch in a week.
This may be the extreme but all species
chew wood. This is why I recommend
wooden perches. I am saddened when
I visit an aviculturist and I see metal,
cement or PVC perches exclusively. In my
collection we have one PVC perch in each
flight cage but this is intended to maintain
the structure of the all wire, elevated cages;
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 45

it is not intended for perching, though they
are often used for this. The birds always
have two wooden perches, which are
placed much higher to make them more
attractive for perching. These perches
are replaced as necessary. The chewing
is natural and when perches containing
leaves and bark are provided they act as
enrichment.
Wild parrots are always interacting with
their environment. They will chew leaves,
bark, and play with stones, insects and
much more. They just do not sit perched
all day, except when feeding or drinking. It
is thus not acceptable to expect them to do
so in a cage. They must be kept busy. This
can be achieved by offering enrichment.
Branches, pods, seeds, coconuts and much
more can serve to keep them entertained.
This enrichment deters aggression and
feather plucking or mutilation.
Nests with a small width and length and a great depth are also preferred by many
species. When offered they are often the key to inducing breeding.
When readers contact me about their
plucking parrot and I ask for a photo,
almost always the image shows a barren
cage, often with a plastic oil metal perch
and occasionally with plastic toys. These
artificial items are never the same as
natural enrichment. Toys can complement
enrichment but I do not believe that they
can substitute enrichment.
Some months ago an avicultural author
visited my collection. As we walked
around, he stopped in front of a cage
containing a newly acquired pair of Blueeyed
Cockatoos (Cacatua ophthalmica).
He commented that I should remove the
“litter” from their cage or they would not
breed. By litter he was referring to pieces
of unhusked coconuts, palm seeds and
pinecones. My response was terse: “Thank
you”. At the end of the tour I walked into a
holding room. It contained three Blue-eyed
Cockatoo chicks that had been produced
by the pair he had looked at earlier in the
day. I mentioned their parents and ended
the visit to the baby room with: “I suppose
they did not read your book”.
This pair had in fact ignored each other on
arrival. It was clear that their focus was not
on each other. I then worked to make them
notice each other´s presence. I placed their
food inside whole green coconuts. The two
worked together or alone to reach their
food. They took notice of one another and
this resulted in them breeding.
Quaker Parrots. Parrots cannot be abruptly moved from a warm to a cold room. Rather
they need to adapt. This transition allows a thicker layer of down and feathers to develop.
Their diet will also require a higher fat level. This fat provides the calories their bodies
need to survive the cold.
Breeding parrots is not just having two birds
of opposite sex together. It requires that
many factors be considered, that both their
physical and biological needs be met and
that the aviculturist show the necessary
commitment to achieve success.
46 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 47

The Bird Shop
e-mail : adverts@dennisonpublishing.co.za / website : www.avizandum.co.za
Advertise now!
All birdkeepers can advertise for FREE on the internet and in the Bird Shop section of Avizandum.
Please note, however, that if your advert is more than a 100 words, we reserve the right
to ask you to pay an amount of R80. Email adverts@dennisonpublishing.co.za to submit your advert.
Codes used in our classified adverts
s/s = surgically sexed c/b = closed banded/rung m/c = micro chipped
h/r = hand raised DNA/s = DNA sexed 1-0 = one male
0-1 = one female 2-2 = two pairs 0-1-5 = no males, one female, five unsexed
Adverts are placed subject to the following conditions:
1. Advertisers must give their full name and address which need not necessarily be published
2. We cannot accept responsibility for errors received by telephone or faxes that are not perfectly legible
3. We accept no responsibilty for goods or services advertised and we reserve the right to refuse to place advertisements
4. No responsibilty will be taken for ommission of advertisements, for any errors in advertisements or results due to such errors
PLEASE TAKE NOTE OF THE DEADLINE DATES FOR ADVERT SUBMISSION NOTED ON PAGE 3 OF THIS PUBLICATION.
BUDGIES & COCKATIELS
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-2 Grey Cockatiels (2015 to
early 2017); 0-2 Whiteface Grey Cockatiels (2015
to early 2017); 0-2 Fallow Cockatiels; 0-1 Dominant
Silver Grey or Whiteface Cockatiel; 1-1 bror
normal Whiteface Cockatiels. Contact Gideon on
0832335144 / parrots@chilliapple.za.net
For sale/Te koop: 1-1-1 brpr Cockatiels (Handreared).
Contact Gen on 0824486690 / gen7409@
gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 (2017) white face split ino
x (2017) white face pied (unrelated) R400.00;
1-1 (2017) white face split ino x (2017) white face
cinnamon pearl (unrelated) R400.00. Transport and
case on buyers account. Cobus 0735332297 (Stella
area).
Wanted/Gesoek: 2-0 Albino Cockatiels. Contact
Christelle on 0763124438 / lperasmus63@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: 9 Cockatiels Pairs and young
ones R150.00 each. Contact Willem on 0825542736
(Drummond, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-20 kokketiele (baie mooi en
verskeie kleure, Billike pryse). Kontak Rico Nel. 083
562 6762. (Ottosdal)
COCKATOOS
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Galah Cockatoos R12 000.00.
Contact 0643110652 (BASED IN DURBAN).
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 lesser sulphur crested (C/B,
U/R, young) R14 000.00; 0-1 lesser sulphur crested
(C/B, young) R8000.00; 0-0-1 Medium sulphur
crested PET (C/B, H/R) R10 000.00. Contact Ricky
0829514554 or Alvin 0829512429 / mpbirds11@
gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Galah (8yr old, c/b, s/s) R10
000.00; 1-0 Ducorps Cockatoo (sings, dances)
R4000.00. Contact Zaheeda on 0832525371 /
zaheeda.kadir@kznhealth.gov.za (Durban)
For sale/Te koop: Pair of Galahs (8 years old, rung)
R12 000.00. Contact Sandra on 0643110652 /
sandrakisten@yahoo.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-2 Medium Sulphur Crested
(h/r, 1 male 8 Months old, other male and female
3 months old) R9000.00. 0219032337 (Kuilsriver).
For sale/Te koop: 2-0 Mat Umbrellas R9000.00
each. Vernon Worthmann 0828064861 (Wartburg,
KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 BRPR Galahs R12000.00.
Contact van der merwe on 0833572637 /
merwedav@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Palm cockatoos; Major Mitchel’s;
Moluccan; Umbrella; Slender bills; Galahs; Lesser
sulphur crested. Perry 082087309865 / perryw@
mweb.co.za
For sale: 1-1 lesser sulph/crested cockatoos
(young pair, U/R, C/B) R14000.00; 0-1 lesser sulph/
crested (young, C/B) R8000.00. Please contact:
Alvin 0829512429, Rob 0398001553 or email:
mpbirds11@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Breeding M S C Cockatoo
(perfect condition) R12 000.00. Contact Chris
Parsons on 0828734223 / info@bmbirds.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Lessor Sulphur Crested
Cockatoo (in Excellent Condition) R25 000.00 for
the pair Call or Whatsapp Zaheer 082 648 3866
(KZN, Stanger).
Wanted/Gesoek: Baby Cockatoo. Contact Chanel
on 0823184140 / sterretjie.debeer.cdb@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 10-10 Brpr Galahs, with records.
Contact Martin van Niekerk on 0839452691 /
martinvanniekerk@icloud.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Galah Cockatoos (Mature
pair, S/S, C/B) R12 000.00 p/p; 1-0 Galah
Cockatoos (Mature, S/S, C/B) R5 500.00 each; 1-1
Lesser Sulpher Cockatoo (Mature, bonded, S/S)
R13 000.00 p/p. Contact Willem on 0825542736
(Drummond, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Goffin Cockatoo (2017)
R3500.00. Contact Phillip 083 349 1378. (Pretoria).
For sale/Te koop:
1-0 Moluccan Cockatoo (h/r)
Contact Belinda on 0620445114 / lood@brickit.
co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Moluccan Cockatoo (h/r)
With Large Cage. Contact Belinda on 0620445114
/ loodkil@live.co.za
CONURES
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-2 Peach Head Conures (Born
2018). Phone Rod 0835365800 (Howick, KZN).
48 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

For sale/Te koop: 2-0 Br Blue throated R750.00
each; 5-5 brpr Pineapples (c/b, s/s) R1000.00 p/p;
1-1 Brpr Blue/cin x Blue cin R900.00 p/p. Vernon
Worthmann 0828064861 Wartburg KZN
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 mature blue throated Conure
R2000.00. Contact Stella, Durban Tel 0723439866.
To swop/Te ruil: 1-0 mature Sun Conure for mature
female or for sale R1300.00. Contact marshall
on 07670487557 / marshallchetty4@gmail.com
(Phoenix)
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Peach Fronted Conure
(2017 or 2018). Contact Carol on 0827779325 /
greenreflect@mweb.co.za
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 Rose-headed rosiefrons.
Contact Terry 0833094690.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Maroon Belly Conures (2017,
S/S) R4500.00; 1-1 Mitred Conures (mature, 5
yrs, S/S) R5000.00; 1-1 Wagler Conures (mature,
+-7yrs) R3800.00; 1-1 Pearly Conures (mature,
+-8yrs) R4500.00; 1-1 brpr Dusky Conures (8 yrs)
R3500.00. Contact esbc on 0766526435
For sale/Te koop: 2-0 Normal/Cinnamon/poss.
Opaline Green Cheek Conures R500.00; 0-2
Cinnamon Green Cheek Conures R500.00; 2-0
Sun Conures (mature) R1250.00; 0-1 Jenday
Conure (mature) R1000.00. Contact Dricus at
oerlemansdricus@gmail.com.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Mature Blue & Gold Macaws;
1-1 brpr Mitred Conures; 1-1 brpr Finch Conures;
1-1 brpr Sun Conures; 2-2 Pineapple Conures; 1-1
Quakers Albino/blue; 1-1 Quakers Lutino/Green; 1-1
Quakers Blue/Green. Must go together. Don’t have
time for them anymore. Please no time wasters.
Contact Jaco on 0726267672 / j.paulsen66@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: 3-3 Crimson Bellied Conures
(2018, unrelated) R8000.00 per pair. Contact Josh
0825798244.
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Senegal; 0-1 Black Cap
Conure. Contact MD de klerk on 0745845422 /
smdek01@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop:
2-1 red breasted yellow sided Conures (2017,
surgically sexed) R750.00 each. Contact Viv on
whatsapp on 0834170858 (South Coast, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1-2 Pineapple Conures (2017)
R600.00 each or R2500.00 for the lot. (All related,
partially hand-reared, quite tame). Whatsapp Braam
Muller at 0782143300. No calls please.
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Black Capped Conure.
Contact Christelle on 0763124438 / lperasmus63@
gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Jenday Conures (2017,
S/S, C/B) R1 250.00 each; 1-1 brpr Green Cheek
Conures (S/S, N/B) R900.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Sun
Conures (S/S, C/B) R3 000.00 p/p; 0-2 Pineapple
Conure (2017, S/S, C/B) R750.00 each. Contact
Willem on 0825542736 (Drummond, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-4 Queens (over 12 weeks
now, H/R, will be DNA sexed within the next week
or 2) R20 000.00 each. Contact Regardt Marcus on
0827730395 / sinwolf1@gmail.com
Opsoek na/Wanted: 1-0 Fiery shoulder Conure; 0-1
Blacktail Conure. Kontak Rico Nel. 083 562 6762.
(Ottosdal)
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-7 yellow sided Conures
(c/b, 2017) R550.00 each; 0-0-4 turquoise green
cheek (c/b, 2017) R550.00 each. Contact Bilal on
0723786429 / bmsdocrat@gmail.com
DOVES, FINCHES & SOFTBILLS
For sale/Te koop: Excellent quality pied diamond
doves R600.00 p/p neg. Birds is ringed with
year rings. Contact Andre on 0825229831 /
aschonken80@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-2 Pearl head silver bills. Contact
Leon De jager on 0791462500 / leoncarskwt@
gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: I am looking for a pair of Black
Headed Nuns; White Headed Nuns; Chestnut
Munia; Five Colour Munia; Strawberry. Any pairs
and will pay transport. Contact Gary Bircher on
0826532908 / gary@gpsec.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Violet Turaco (bird is in
beautiful condition, about 4 years old) R4000.00 or
nearest cash offer. Please phone 0780733667
For sale/Te koop: 2-2 Star Finches (Cocks Pied)
R400.00 p/p; 1-0-1 Red Headed Parrot Finches
R400.00 for both;
1-1 Black headed normal Gouldians R350.00.
Outdoor aviary bred. Contact Dave Grant on 082
924 1644 / grad0124@gmail.com (Johannesburg).
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Red and Yellow Barbet also
willing to swop a male bird for a hen. Contact
Gerhard De Bruyn on 0748295805 / gerhard@
gerharddebruyn.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Red-Throated Twinspots
(Peter Twinspots) R1200.00; 1-1 Cuban Grass
quits (Cuban Finches) R600.00; 1-1 Plum-Headed
Finches (Cherry Finches) R400.00; 1-1 Red Head
Star Finches R400.00; 2-0 Pied Red Head Star
Finch Males R250.00 each; 1-0 Double-Barred
Finch (Owl/Bicheno Finch) R250.00. All birds 2017
outdoor bred. Henry: 0662364049.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Red factor (Banded)
R500.00. Contact Willem on 0825542736
(Drummond, KZN)
Wanted/ Gesoek: Grasvinke (mannetjies los of per
paar) Klein duif soorte. Contact Antonn on 079 979
8065 / j3henn@hotmail.com (Weskaap asb.)
GAMEBIRDS, PHEASANTS & WATERFOWL
For sale/Te koop: Ringed Teal Ducks R600.00
each; White Pintail Ducks R600.00 each. Contact
Siep or Annemarie on 0837737871 0761496398 /
botesanne@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 4-4 pairs Shamo game fowl (large
breed). Various colors R300.00 per pair. Contact me
on 076 078 9323.
For sale/Te koop: 2 Jong swane, besig om te
verkleur na wit. Skakel Lena by 0832351997.
Wanted/Gesoek: Indian wandering whistling ducks;
Golden female pheasant. Contact Guillaume
Pretorius on 0833908724 / gppret@icloud.com
(Brentwood Park)
For sale/Te koop: 5-5 GOLDEN PHEASANTS
R1000.00; 3-3 BLACK TROATED YELLOW
GOLDEN PHEASANTS R1100.00; 1-1 ANCONA
R500.00; 1-1 MOTLLED LEGHORN R500.00; 0-1
EXCHEQUER LEGHORN R300.00; 0-1 SPANISH
WHITE FACE R300.00. CALL JACO 0825769344.
For sale/Te koop: 7-7 Ring-necked Pheasants
R600.00 per pair; 1-3 Sebrights R800.00; Pekin
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 49

Bantams R400.00 per pair; Japanese Bantams
R400.00 per pair; Tennessee Red Quails R600.00
per pair; Mexican Speckled Quails R500.00 per
pair; 1-1 White Guinea fowl R400.00; 1-1 Brown
Leghorn R600.00. Call Jaco 0825769344.
For sale/Te koop: Stunning Pheasants and Geese
available. Trio Ringneck pheasants R1500.00;
Trio Golden Pheasants R1500.00; 1-3 Melanistic
pheasants R1800.00; 1-1 Hawaiian geese mature
R3500.00. Contact Nicci 0842306419 (KYALAMI
area)
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Green crested Turaco (4
years old) R2000.00; 0-1 Violet Turaco (2 years
old) R3000.00. Contact Deon 0824518039 / deon.
loots@gmail.com (Heidelberg Gauteng)
For sale/Te koop: 2-0 los Brazilian teal R350.00 elk.
Contact DAVID on 0793789130 / laborius1@lantic.
net
For sale/Te koop: 0-2 African Pygmy Goose
R6000.00 each. Contact Corrie on 0823769203 /
neelsverster007@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Kenya Crested Guineafowl
R2 000.00 per pair. Contact Deon Joubert on
0724700771 / deon.joubert@sasol.com
INDIAN RINGNECKS
To swap/Te ruil: 1-0 lutino Ringneck (2017, s/s,
with tattoo) to swop for lutino or albino or creamino
female. Contact Eliphas Makombe on 0798936383
/ eliphas@rugare.co.za (Vanderbijlpark)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Blue Ringnecks R850.00; 1-1
green female blue male R850.00. Contact Zaheeda
on 0832525371 / zaheeda.kadir@kznhealth.gov.za
For sale/Te koop 4-4 Lutino Ringneck (2017 s/s)
R2800.00 p/p; 2-2 Cream Eno Ringneck (2017
s/s) R3000.00 p/p; 2-2 Albino Ringneck (2017
s/s) R3000.00 p/p. Kontak Kobus 0833814221
(Potchefstroom)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Yellow Ringnecks (14”, in
perfect condition) R2500.00. Contact Sumeshni on
0725327696 / sparks9311@gmail.com
To swap/Te ruil: 0-1 Lutino (2016) To swop for
an Albino Ringneck. If you are interested please
contact me. Adrian 0725706363.
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Cobalt clear tail R1600.00.
Contact Lene on 0713631149 / lenelello@yahoo.
com
For sale/Te koop: All 2017 birds: 1-0 Grey green
Clear tail/poss. blue R1200.00; 1-0 Creamino
R1200.00. Contact Dricus Oerlemans at
oerlemansdricus@gmail.com.
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Violet turq Opaline (Breeding
cock, c/b, stunning bird) R10 000.00 not neg; 0-1
Cobalt pied (breeding hen, c/b) R1500.00 Airfreight
can be arranged. Contact Joe on 0845719952
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Blue/WHWT ringneck
(2017) R550.00. Adrian: 0725706363.
LORIES & LORIKEETS
To swap/Te ruil: 5-0 Dusky Orange Lorikeets (s/s,
c/b, proven and young); 5 -0 Yellow Bibbed Lorikeets
(s/s, c/b, proven and young); I will swop proven
and mature birds for young so that I can start from
scratch again, I lost my breeding hens with a swarm
of bees that moved into the nest boxes. Pictures on
request. Contact James Combrinck on 0827842905
/ jamesandmiche@edelnet.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Rainbow Lorikeet (late 2017
baby) R1 500.00. Contact Azhar on 0733777331 /
azrajah@gmail.com (Krugersdorp West Rand)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Swainsons lorikeet pair R
4000.00; 1-1 Green naped lorikeet pair R 4000.00;
1-0 Swainsons R 2000.00; 0-1 Green naped R
2000.00. All are s/s and mature birds. Contact
Stanley on 0833810930 / stanleyb287@gmail.com
LOVEBIRDS
For sale/Te koop: Love birds. Contact Matthew on
0846024420 / andrews.matthew870@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Cape Peninsula; Young Peach
Faced Love birds; various beautiful colours; Mature
Peach face love birds. Breeding pairs beautiful
colours. Contact Peter Harley on 0844553552 /
admin.djds@telkomsa.net
For sale/Te koop: Lovebirds verskeie kleure
R200.00 stuk. Kontak Edmund by 0722172079
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 young Cuban Amazon
R7000.00. Contact Imti on 0822616588 /
essackimtiaz@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Roseicollis - 2-2 lutino Opaline
R1000.00 per pair; 1 Green-red headed Opaline
R150.00; 1 Green-orange headed Opaline
R150.00; 2 Green-orange headed R100.00 each;
1 Violet turquoise R150.00. Fischers - 10 green
Fischer’s R100.00 each; 10 dec yellow Fischer’s
R150.00 each; 10 green nyassa R100.00 each. Call
Jaco 0825769344.
For sale/Te koop: Fischer lovebirds: 0-0-3 SF
violet / parblue (2018) - R450.00 each. Adrian:
0725706363.
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 albino of lutino masker; 0-1
Euwing of Euwing pied blackcheeck. Kontak Rico
Nel. 083 562 6762. (Ottosdal)
MACAWS
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Greenwing Macaw (well
bonded pair) R75 000.00; 2-0 Blue and Gold Macaw
(2 years old, excellent condition) R12 000.00 each.
Call or whatsapp Zaheer 082 648 3866
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Flighted Greenwing (1 year
old, H/R, C/B) R22 000.00; 0-1 Blue and Gold (1
year old, H/R, C/B) R10 000.00. Contact Ricky
0829514554 or Alvin 0829512429 / mpbirds11@
gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 certified breeding hybrid (over
10 years old). Contact Ricky 0829514554 or Alvin
0829512429 / mpbirds11@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Hahn’s Macaw R1500.00.
Contact George Nairn on 0397373980 / nairngm@
telkomsa.net
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Blue and Gold Macaw
(currently on 3 feeds per day, unsexed). R10
000.00. Phone 0833194627.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 paar Red Fronted Macaw
R25000.00 p/p; 2-2 pare Australiese Konings
R8000.00 p/p; 1-0 Illiger Macaw R3000.00 elk.
0823390360 / vpelser26@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Blue and Gold Macaw (fully
mature, 6 years old, in excellent condition and
beautiful feathering) R20 000.00. Please phone
Des 0833194627.
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 yellow collared (2016
or younger). Contact Julio on 0797115140 /
jscheepers48@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Blue & Gold (2016, c/b, s/s,
p/r) R10 500.00; 3-0 Blue & Gold (2017, c/b, s/s,
p/r) R9500.00 each; 2-0 Yellow nape (2017, c/b,
s/s, p/r) R3750.00 each; 1-0 Severe (2016, c/b, s/s,
p/r) R3500.00. Vernon Worthmann 0828064861
(Wartburg KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Blue and Gold Macaw (6
year old) R11000.00. Contact van der merwe on
0833572637 / merwedav@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1.1 volwasse paar blou en gouds
R40 000.00. Contact Neels on 0788259881.
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-3 Severe Macaws (P/R,
2017) R3000.00 each. Contact Steve Nieuwoudt
0827801196.
For sale/Te koop: 3 Illiger Macaw (3-5 months old,
hand-reared) R2000.00 each. Contact Johan de
Winnaar on 0727111710 / jjcdewinnaar@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Greenwing Macaw
R75 000.00; 2-0 Blue and Gold Macaw (2 years
old, excellent condition) R10 000.00 each. Call
or whatsapp Zaheer Ellahi 082 648 3866 (KZN,
Stanger).
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Mature Blue and Gold (has
been a pet her whole life, 16 years old) R18 000.00.
Contact Paul on 0614585392 / pplath05@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: 2-2 Mature Blue & Gold Macaws.
Call Clyde 0792533864 (Hillcrest, Durban).
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Blue & Gold (2 Feeds per
day, hand-reared, very good condition). Contact
Andre on 0826533496 / andb@absamail.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Mature Blue & Gold Macaws;
1-1 brpr Mitred Conures; 1-1 brpr Finch Conures;
1-1 brpr Sun Conures; 2-2 Pineapple Conures; 1-1
Quakers Albino/blue; 1-1 Quakers Lutino/Green; 1-1
Quakers Blue/Green. Must go together, don’t have
time for them anymore. Please no time wasters.
Contact Jaco on 0726267672 / j.paulsen66@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Stunning mature breeding
Blue and Gold Macaw (Hen flew away) R18 000.00.
Contact Nicci 0842306419.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Greenwing Macaws
(Gewaarborg microchip) R80 000.00. Neels
0788259881.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Scarlet Macaws (scruffy,
S/S) R 80 000.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Blue & Gold Macaws
(S/S, C/B) R 40 000.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Yellow Collard
Macaws (S/S, C/B) R 7 500.00 p/p. Contact Willem
on 0825542736 (Drummond, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-2 Blue and Gold (16 weke oud,
handmak). Contact Tinus Potgieter on 0828023727
/ thinus@unifrutti.co.za (Hoedspruit Limpopo)
For sale/Te koop: 4-4 brpr B&G Macaws; 3-3 brpr
Military Macaws; 2-2 brpr Scarlet Macaws; 4-4 brpr
Greenwing Macaws; 0-1 DYH Amazon (5 years); 6-6
brpr Eclectus; 3-3 brpr Orange wing Amazon; 4-4
brpr Blue Fronted Amazon; 1-0 Eclectus. Dr Tommy
Blunden/Dr Grey & Certificates. Contact Cornè
Barnard on 0784764400 / cbarnardconsulting@
gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-4 Blue & Gold Macaws (h/r,
c/b, 12 weeks, one feed a day). Contact Jan on
50 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

0795285295 / jan.gouws@kynoch.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Blue & Gold baby (2 Feeds
per day, hand-reared, very good condition) R
9500.00. Contact Andre on 0826533496 / andb@
absamail.co.za (Pretoria East)
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Blue and Gold Macaw (3
feeds per day) R9500.00. Contact Phillip 083 349
1378. (Pretoria area).
MISCELLANEOUS
For sale/Te koop: 1 GRUMBACH incubator (nondigital)
R20 000.00. Please phone Des: 083 319
4627 (Pretoria)
For sale/Te koop: 2-1 Black eared Marmosets.
DEAN 0825796924 (JHB)
For sale/Te koop: Red Rumps R300.00 each;
Budgies White R100.00 each; Budgies Yellow
R60.00 each; Kakarikis bond R400.00 each;
Kakarikis Yellow R500.00 each; Opaline Rosellas
R800.00 each; Ringneck R350.00 each. Contact
Siep or Annemarie on 0837737871 0761496398 /
botesanne@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Mist nets mesh size 2 and 3. Nets
are 10 metres X 2.5 metres, 4 pocket. R350.00 per
net. The nets can be sent countrywide via Aramex
or Post net for R99. Please contact philliptiedt@
telkomsa.net or phone 0813541272.
For sale/Te koop: Show Quality Pekin Bantams
available. Pairs of rare colours available most
of the time. Phone or WhatsApp 082 714 5811
for more info. Visit https://www.facebook.com/
pekinbantamsrsa/ and https://pekinbantamsrsa.
weebly.com/ for photos and info.
For sale/Te koop: Rottweiler pups big head 5 Weeks
old, 3 Males, 3 Females Next week all injections
R3000.00 per pup. Phone Koos 083 468 6354
(Klerksdorp,North West)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Marmoset Witoor
(Dragtig); 1-1 brpr Marmoset Wit- Swartoor
wyfie (Dragtig); 3-0 Witoor Marmoset; 1-1
Cottontops. Contact Cornè on 0784764400 /
cbarnardconsulting@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Self-Feeders. We specialize in
making safe and affordable self-feeders for birds,
dogs and cats. Our products are of a very high
standard and we deliver country wide. Please feel
free to contact us should you require a catalogue of
our latest range. Hannes Potgieter 079 922 9890 or
hannes.potgieter@vodamail.co.za.
For sale/Te koop: Sunflower seed available 40kg
bags R300.00 a bag. Contact muhammed on
0844072702 / muhammedaaqil25@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Voel boekhou program in
Afrikaans en engels beskikbaar. Kontak my vir
besonderhede 0845057575.
For sale/Te koop: New color Yellow Citroen
Canaries. Contact Gerrie on 0769825355 /
vanniekerkgh@gmail.com
INCUBATORS, various models, www.brinsea.co.uk
suitable for all fowl, parrots, ducks, quail, pheasants.
Contact Namibian/Angolan Agent, Sergio Lopes
+264-67-221686, lisboa@iway.na, +264-81 253
7000
Temperature controller microprocessor based with
PT100 resistance thermometer solid state relay
output PID CONTOL. Suitable for all your incubator
and brooder temperature needs accuracy 0.1
degree. FAN and heating elements also available.
Contact Leon on 082 901 8368
For sale: Buddy Digital Egg Monitors. This machine
is portable and gives you the heart rate on any
fertile egg. If you have chicks that are battling to
hatch, this monitor can help you save those chicks.
New stock arrived R4 500.00 VAT and courier incl.
For more information contact Phillip Lawrence on
058 303 3284 / 082 770 2670 (Bethlehem)
For sale: Incubator parts. Thermostats from
R169.00. Hydrometers, fans and thermometers.
Contact Russell on 083 285 4410
YouTube Business videos: Specialist bird breeders,
clubs and dealers can now use an exciting new
online way to market their birds and services.
Follow the international trend. Have a 3 to 7 minute
YouTube video made to market your birds or club.
No website development costs, no monthly hosting
costs, no monthly search engine optimisation
costs. All that you need is an e mail address and
a budget to pay for a once off YouTube Business
video production cost. Once the YouTube video is
completed it will be uploaded and work 24 / 7 - 365
days a year for you on a global basis. Production
time takes approximately 2 to 3 weeks and costs
range from R 8500. For more information contact
Eelco Meyjes at 082 457 4936 or e mail editor@
avitalk.co.za
For sale: Grumbach Incubators for Parrots,
Pheasants, Water-fowl and Reptiles. Hatchers,
Intensive Care Units and Brooders also available.
New computerised, digital, fully automatic Incubators
now available. Extremely accurate temperature and
humidity control. The only Incubator that can cool
down if the temperature in your bird room rises.
New digital, programmable Hatchers available.
Servicing and repairs undertaken. Spare Parts in
stock. Over 800 Grumbach Incubators in operation
in South Africa. Contact Phillip Lawrence on 058
303 3284 / 082 770 2670 (Bethlehem)
Unique new service in South Africa. Make sure
when next you attend a major convention you have
the best business card available. Have your own
PRIVATE COLLECTION DVD / video made of your
own special collection of exotic birds or bird farm.
Invest in a professionally made DVD / video to help
market your birds and breeding facilities both locally
and internationally. each; DVD takes approximately
3 to 6 months to make and should include at least
one breeding cycle to help demonstrate and give
credibility to your bird breeding skills. Costs include:
Research, Scriptwriting, Filming, Lighting, Editing,
Voice narration, Packaging and Music design.
Costs range from R45,000 and are determined
according the scale, locality, variety and number of
species and their required nesting and diets to be
filmed, plus the complexity of the film and editing
work needed ( e.g. 5 different bird species may
require 5 different diets and 5 different nesting
examples). The DVD’s are made by Eelco Meyjes,
who is the producer of the internationally acclaimed
DVD series Birdkeeping the South African way.
All DVD / Video production work is prequoted.
For more information on this exciting new service
contact Eelco Meyjes on 082 457 4936 or e mail
editor@avitalk.co.za
For sale: Entire exotic waterfowl farm on 2.2 ha plot
for sale. Owner relocating. Seventy (70) different
species including all 7 recognised Swan (Cygnus)
species. Other species include Ashy-headed,
Ruddy-headed Geese, European Eider, Pinkeared
Duck, Smew, Barrow’s & European Golden
Eye,Bufflehead, Teal, Shelduck and Whistling Duck
species. Approximately 300 birds in total. Incubator
room with incubators, hatchers. Indoor rearing room
R350
R350
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 51

Manufacturers of Stainless Steel
Avian Identification Rings for Parrots
* Solid (seamless) top grade, stainless steel rings
* Non-corrosive, indestructable, everlasting
*Narrow width with inside and outside edges
smoothed by machine
*No chaffing of leg or callous formation as seen with
inferior rings
*Neat deeply stamped, black, personalised initials
and numbering with optional year date
*Hand polished, professional finish
*Sizes from 5 to 16 mm ID
*Recommended by respected aviculturists
*Friendly service with speedy National
and International postal or courier dispatch
“By far the best rings I have seen in SA.
Every serious breeder should be using them.”
William Horsfield
Amazona Endangered Parrot Breeding Facility
LILLIAN DAVIS
Tel (031) 768 1111 / Fax (031) 768 1754
e-mail: Ltbird@eastcoast.co.za
with fibreglass rearing units as well as outdoor
rearing unit. Three large dams with 20 smaller
camps and ponds with circulating water through
biological filters. All camps well maintained with
indigenous trees and shrubs. Back-up generator
system for incubation and rearing units. Large,
4-bedroom (2 with en-suite bathrooms) thatched
roof house in the beautiful Magaliesberg area,
40 km from Rustenburg, North West province.
The house features a reception area, 2 lounges,
large modern kitchen, dining room, two studies,
bar, gymnasium, sewing room, as well as large
outdoor entertainment area, swimming pool and
lapa. Double garage and large workshop. Well
established garden with 30 different indigenous
tree and shrub species. Two equipped, permanent
boreholes. R4 500 000. Contact Louis Hartley on
083 630 3446 / l.har@mweb.co.za
Internationally acclaimed DVD series Birdkeeping
the South African way is a five part DVD series
filmed on TV broadcast material. Part 1 is a six part
overview of South African Birdkeeping. You will see
award winning Finch, Softbill and Parrot breeder
setups plus also see how aviculture contributes
to nature conservation as well as an example of
how surgical sexing is done. You will also see one
of Africa’s largest walk in aviaries. This DVD sells
for R245. Part 2 titled “The Finches of Africa” will
show you more than 70 of Africa and South Africa’s
finch species plus give you a valuable bird keeper’s
guide to help breed these magnificent finches. This
DVD sells for R285. Part 3 titled “Keeping Finches”
will show you the facilities of 4 prominent SA finch
breeders as well as more than 50 Australian, Asian,
European and African finch species. It also includes
the valuable bird keeper’s guide on how to breed
these wonderful birds. This DVD sells for R285.
Part 4 titled “Keeping and Breeding the African
Grey” has been widely acclaimed as the best DVD
in the world on this particular species. Not only is it
suitable for African Grey enthusiasts, but all parrot
owners will learn from it. Both pet owners as well as
professional breeders have raved about it. It also
includes a section on all the known colour mutations
in South Africa plus how the world’s first ALL RED
African Grey parrot was created. This DVD sells
for R285. Part 5 titled “Keeping and Breeding
Softbills” is a double disc DVD with a total running
time of 154 minutes. It will show you more than
85 softbill species and 3 of South Africa’s leading
softbill breeders - Mossie Webber, William Horsfield
and Graeme Hoffman-all share their phenomenal
expertise. This DVD sells for R365. All prices are
inclusive of VAT and postage. Orders can be sent to
Eelco Meyjes at editor@avitalk.co.za or phone 082
457 4936. These internationally acclaimed DVD’s
are also available from Avizandum and many of the
top bird shops in South Africa.
Looking for a needle in a haystack is what searching
for the Shelley’s crimsonwing finch is. The species
is one of the rarest finches in Africa. Visit the Rare
Finch Conservation Group Blog at http://rarefinch.
wordpress.com/.and find out what we are doing,
on an up-to-the-minute basis, to try and save this
species from probable extinction. You will also see
a 6 minute YouTube video clip of our internationally
acclaimed fund raising documentary “Searching
for Shelley’s finches amongst Africa’s Mountain
Gorilla’s”. This is what David Dennison had to say
about the new documentary, “We were treated to
the most fantastic 60 minutes of multidisciplinary
conservation effort that one can imagine ... this DVD
is worth every cent of its purchase price”. Support
finch conservation work. For more information
contact Eelco Meyjes on 082 457 4936
Nutribird and Orlux Bird Food & Supplements
(imported from Europe). The range consists
of pellets, dry softfood, honey egg softfood
(patee), hand-rearing formula, seeds, vitamins &
supplements, speciality diets for fruit and insect
eating birds such as ant eggs, insect mixes, fruit
mixes to cater for all bird species. The patee softfood
contains eggs, insects, shrimps, fish, berries, fruit,
honey, etc. Can be fed together with your current
softfood mixture or on its own. Excellent for daily
use. High in protein. Various seed mixes as used
at the Loro Parque Fundacion which are specially
developed for certain species such as Amazons,
Australian, African, Macaws, etc. Also available 5
litre Virukill. For more info visit www.versele-lega.
com and www.orlux.be / Preggy 074 533 4460
(Irene, Pretoria)
Aviary & Rearing Accessories: Large variety.
Stainless steel bowls (14cm-24cm); Swivel Feeders
only with 11 cm bowls; Nest boxes of all sizes made
from plywood; Catch Nets; Virukill-Avisafe 1 litre
and 5 litres, etc. Phone Preggy on 074 533 4460
(Irene)
Wanted: Ringnecks, Albino, Creamino. Birds must
be one year or older. Good prices will be paid if
you are interested in exporting Ringnecks or other
Australian birds, Rosellas, Turqs, Mulga, Splendid,
Red Rump mutations, Lories, Finches, fancy
pigeons, etc. Please e-mail us or call on the number
below, it may be possible to pick up birds and pay
for them locally for those not interested in exporting.
Contact avianzoo@hotmail.com or Sohail Fazal
+92 345 846 3666
Chickens for sale: Pekin Bantams (standard
& frizzled) in white, black, buff, lavender, blue,
partridge. Contact Mervyn on 072 445 1323 / 041
379 4430 (Port Elizabeth)
MONATI HANDREARING, SOFT and PELLETS
available at Breeders Prices in the Western Cape.
If you haven’t used it before and would like a free
sample to try please contact me. Price list available
on request. Free delivery in Cape Town and
surrounding areas. Contact Eddie Hughes on 082
555 0256 or 021 782 3792. E mail; eddiehughes@
telkomsa.net
Available: Parrot rings-As a PASA member you
can obtain unique rings in aluminium, brass and
stainless steel in different sizes at best prices. Egg
lights, open rings, applicators and date punches are
available at discount prices to members. Contact
the PASA Office at 082 418 1555, 09:00-13:00,
Monday-Friday / pvsa@aviculturesa.co.za / www.
aviculturesa.co.za (new applications welcome)
Beskikbaar: Papegaairinge-‘n PVSA lid kan hoë
kwaliteit ringe van verskillende groottes is in
aluminium, geelkoper en vlekvrye staal teen die
beste pryse bekom. Datumponsers, oop ringe,
tange en eiertoetsliggies is ook aan lede beskikbaar
teen afslagpryse. Kontak die PVSA Kantoor by 082
418 1555, Maandae-Vrydae, 09:00-13:00 / pvsa@
aviculturesa.co.za / www.aviculturesa.co.za (nuwe
aansluitings welkom)
Bird Services: Chickadee Bird Services-We do Bird
Baby-Sitting / Wing Clipping and Nails, Assessing
and Advising / Delivering of Pet Food and
Accessories. For best service, please call Michelle
on 082 944 0140 (Durban / Highway area
PARAKEETS & PARROTLETS
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Moustache R750.00. Contact
George Nairn on 0397373980 / nairngm@telkomsa.
net
For sale/Te koop: 3 Pairs green Parrotlets R400.00
a pair or R1000.00 to take all. Contact Johan 073
374 5530.
For sale/Te koop: 4-4 pare Rubino Rosellas
52 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

R3000.00 p/p; 3-3 pare Brown Rosellas R4000.00
p/p. 0823390360 / vpelser26@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Eastern Rosella mutation, wild
type split melanistic /cinammon x melanistic (c/b,
2017, unrelated) R20 000.00; 1-1 Eastern Rosella
mutation melanistic x rubino split melanistic (c/b,
2017, unrelated) R21 000.00. Visitors are welcome.
Frank Spahr 0446920251 or 0792539510 whatsapp
(Mossel Bay)
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Plumheads. Contact Dean on
0825796924 / Dean@globalcleaning.co.za (Jhb
area).
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Cinnamon Green Quaker
(young, hand tame bird, 2017, rung) R600.00.
Contact Andre de Villiers on 082 7818 295 / andre.
rheenendal@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Golden-mantled Rosella
(normal). Contact Terry 0833094690.
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Plumheads; 0-2 moustache.
Preferably mature/breeding birds. Contact Joe on
0825520870 / dom@global.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 4 blou quacker parakiete
R1200.00 stuk. Kontak Edmund by 0722172079
For sale/Te koop: 0-2 Alexandrine (2017) R1000.00
elk. 0845057575 (Bethal, Mpumalanga)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Mature Blue & Gold Macaws;
1-1 brpr Mitred Conures; 1-1 brpr Finch Conures;
1-1 brpr Sun Conures; 2-2 Pineapple Conures; 1-1
Quakers Albino/blue; 1-1 Quakers Lutino/Green;
1-1 Quakers Blue/Green;
Must go together. Don’t have time for them
anymore Please no time wasters. Contact Jaco on
0726267672 / j.paulsen66@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 2-2 Regent/ Rock Pebler normal
Parakeet. Will pay for transportation. Contact Ismail
on 0716765518 / ismailsuffla@gmail.com (Durban)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Opaline x golden rosella
(S/S, N/B) R2 000.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Golden x golden
Rosella (S/S, C/B) R1 800.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Mealy
rosella x Opaline rosella (S/S, N/B) R2 200.00 p/p;
1-1 brpr Rubino x Lutino Rosellas (S/S, Male C/B,
Female N/B) R3 500.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Kakarikis Pied
x Cinnamon (Banded) R1 500.00 p/p; 1-1 Kakarikis
Pied x Lutino (Mature, Banded) R1 500.00 p/p; 0-1
Sierra (2017, S/S, C/B) R2 500.00 each; 1-1 brpr
Turquoisines (2016, Female C/B and red breast,
male normal) R1 500.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Kakarikis Pied
(Banded, R2 500.00 p/p; 1-1 Rosa Bourkes (2017,
S/S, C/B) R1 350.00 p/p; 3-0 Red Rump (2017,
S/S, C/B) R300.00 each; 1-1 Goue Mantels x Lutino
(2017, S/S, C/B) R2 000.00 p/p; 1-0 Goue Mantel
(2017, S/S, C/B) R800.00 each. Contact Willem on
0825542736 (Drummond, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Blou kop Pionus. Contact
C bothma on 0834551153 / bothma10111@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: Celestial Parrotlets (available
for hand rearing); Green R250.00 each; Blue
R450.00 each. Contact Christelle on 0763124438
/ lperasmus63@gmail.com
Opsoek na/Wanted: 0-1 Rooi cinnamon pennant.
Kontak Rico Nel. 083 562 6762. (Ottosdal)
For sale/Te koop: 3-0 Golden Mantle Rosellas
Opaline/cinnamon/Ino (2017, DNA/s, c/b).
Groblersdal 072 552 0987
Wanted/Gesoek: 1 young common pair Rosella.
Contact sanjay on 0783278189 / sanjay.
premnand10@gmail.com
Wanted Quaker Parakeets: Young birds, all colours
and mutations (s/s, c/b, males and females) Contact
Frank 0824448971 (Durban)
PARROTS
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 Yellow Crowned Amazon
(MATURE); 0-1 Dusky Pionus. Contact esbc on
0766526435 / elgoog007@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Blue fronted (2015) R6000.00;
1-1 blue fronted (2017) R8000.00; 2-2 Vinaceous
Amazon R6000.00. Contact Wilna coetzee on
0825767697 / wilnac@lantic.net
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 double yellow headed (4.5
year old) R13000.00; 0-3 Orange winged (mature
breeding) R6000.00 the lot or R3000.00 for one;
3-0 Blue fronted (mature breeding, very good)
R9000.00 the lot or R4000.00 for one; 1-1 strong
double yellow headed (young, H/R, Flighted) R18
000.00 a pair; 1-0 Yellow naped (young, C/B, H/R)
R8000.00. Contact Ricky 0829514554 or Alvin
0829512429 / mpbirds11@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Mature flighted yellow
naped Amazon (with proof of age and maturity).
Contact Ricky 0829514554 or Alvin 0829512429 /
mpbirds11@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Orange wing Amazon
R1000.00. Contact George Nairn on 0397373980 /
nairngm@telkomsa.net
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Blue fronted Amazons
(bonded, 1 year old, vet checked and close banded).
R9000.00 Or to swap for a breeding pair Solomon
Electus. Call 0722109814.
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-2 African Grey babas (2
voedings, 9 weke oud). Contact Tinus Potgieter on
0828023727 / thinus@unifrutti.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 5-5 pare White fronted Amazon
R6000.00 p/p; 4-4 pare Rupels R3000.00 p/p; 2-2
pare Cape Parrot R4000.00 p/p; 1-1 paar Jardine
R2000.00 p/p; 0-3 Alexandrine R1500.00 elk; 1-1
paar Cuban Amazon R6000.00 p/p; 1-0 Cuban
Amazon R3000.00 elk; 1-0 Jardine R1000.00 elk;
1-1 paar Greater Jardine R4000.00 p/p; 1-1 paar
Kakarikis R2500.00 p/p; 1-1 paar Greenwing King
R10 000.00 elk; 1-0 Greenwing King R3000.00 elk;
1-0 Pileated R3000.00 elk; 1-0 black wing Jardine
R1500.00 elk. 0823390360 / vpelser26@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: African Grey babas met rooi
sterte (Hand grootgemaak) R2200.00 elk. Kontak
Rene 0823717249 (Pretoria)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Blue fronted Amazons; 1-1
Mealy Amazons. Dean 0825796924 (JHB)
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Blue Fronted Amazon R8
000.00; 0-0-1 African Grey kuiken R1 800.00.
Skakel Dirk van Schalkwyk 072 259 2904 of Ann
072 581 4352 (Kestell, Oos Vrystaat).
For sale/Te koop: 2-0 Br Black head Caiques
R3000.00 each; 1-0 Mat White cap Pionus R500.00;
1-3 White bellied Caiques (2017, c/b, s/s, p/r)
R5000.00 each. Vernon Worthmann 0828064861
(Wartburg KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 blue fronted Amazon’s
(3.5 year old) R12 000.00. Contact Stella on
0723439866 (Durban)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Bodini Amazons (c/b, vet
checked, hen layed 2017 for the first time) R14
000.00; 1-1 BRPR Yellow Crowned Amazons R14
000.00; 1-1 Yellow Naped Amazons (breeding
Bird Drinking
Nipples
AVIAN VET DIRECTORY
ORDER ONLINE
NOW
Phone us on 031 763 4054
OR
Email: sales@dennisonpublishing.co.za
NATIONAL
Dr Chris Kingsley.................... 082 780 8043
GAUTENG (JOHANNESBURG)
Dr. S. Le Goff (Edenvale)............011 453 8525
Dr T. Blunden (Boksburg).......... 011 893 2117
Dr. P. Yenketsamy (Bryanston).....011 706 1381
Dr P. Stapelberg (Radiokop)....... 011 475 8680
Dr C. de Kramer (K/dorp)......... 011 660 3110
GAUTENG (PRETORIA)
Dr D. Elliot (Onderstepoort)...... 012 529 8105
Dr. S. Steyn (Onderstepoort)......012 529 8105
Dr D. Greyling (Centurion)........ 082 778 8417
MPUMALANGA
Dr Q. Otto (Nelspruit).............. 013 790 0850
NORTH WEST
Dr A. Smit (Ottosdal)............... 018 571 0337
KWAZULU NATAL
Dr T. Kaldenberg (Kloof)........... 031 764 0588
Dr. Odendaal (Kloof)............... 031 764 0588
Dr. K. Easson (Dbn North)........ 031 563 6565/6
Dr. Oliver Tatham (pmb)...........033 342 4698
EASTERN CAPE
Dr P. Wood (East London)......... 043 735 1456
WESTERN CAPE
Dr R. Nischk (Parow)............... 021 558 1625
Dr Joubert (Blaauberg)............ 021 557 6197
Dr A. Coetzee (Yzerfontein)...... 078 417 4477
Dr D. de Beer (Paarl)............... 021 875 5063
Dr T. Dicks (Fish Hoek)............. 021 785 4482
Dr M. Barron (Diep River)......... 021 712 5103
Dr F. Goedhals (Strand)............ 021 854 7037
Dr. B. van Huysteen (Panorama). 012 930 6632
Dr. F. Graaff (Mossel Bay)..........044 695 1086
FREE STATE
Dr Marshall (Welkom).............. 057 392 2971
LIMPOPO
Dr. K. Coetzee (Phalaborwa)......015 781 7894
Dr. G.J. Scheepers (Phalaborwa).015 781 0653
This is a free directory offered by Avizandum.
If you know of any avian vets that should be
listed here, or if any of this information is
incorrect, please email us on
adverts@dennisonpublishing.co.za
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 53

E COETZEE
PHARMACY
72 York Street, George
tel 044 874 3188
fax 044 873 5216
STOCKISTS OF AVI-PRODUCTS,
FEEDS & SUPPLEMENTS
AND MEDICINE FOR BIRDS
Advertisers’ Index
Avi-Plus..............................................................C2
Bester Birds........................................................C4
Bird Drinking Nipples..........................................53
Coetzee Pharmacy............................................. 54
Easy Feeder........................................................35
E-Raticator .........................................................45
King Worms........................................................ 41
L&T Bird Farm.................................................... 52
Lumegen Laboratories....................................... 13
Marltons / Versele-Laga.....................................C3
Maxishare......................................................... 1, 9
Mesh4Birds.1,5,7,11,15,19,21,23,27,31,33,37,41,45,52,54
Natures Nest...................................................................27
New Lovebird book.............................................23
Nutripet...............................................................35
Plastic Clip Bird Rings........................................ 35
PVSA..................................................................47
SA Love Pets...................................................... 49
Shady Streams Mealworms............................... 51
The Fishkeeper...................................................01
Tomri Ringe........................................................ 52
Ultimate Exotics..................................................13
Wanted For Export..............................................33
Why Subscribe?................................................... 1
hen) R38 000.00. Contact Corinne Johnson on
0844681000 / johnsonccfam@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 3-3 Auropalliata Yellow Nape
pairs (2017, c/b, DNA sexed) R16 000.00 p/p; 2-0
Aur Nape extra (2017, c/b, DNA sexed) to swop 1
or sell for R7500.00; 1-1 Prolific brpr Auropalliata
Yellow Nape pair (They brake eggs) effective nest
box to catch included R25 000.00. Contact Esté
0833542152.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Double Yellow Headed
Amazons R17000.00. Contact Joelien on
0833722515 / joelien@snoetensnawel.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Orange wing Amazons
R4000.00; 0-1 Orange wing Amazon R2500.00;
1-1 Hans Macaw’s R4000.00; 1-1 African Grey Red
tail R5000.00; 1-1 African Grey Red tail R5000.00;
1-1 African Grey Red tail R5000.00. Contact Jan on
0832707164 / petsandpride@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 Black Headed Caique (‘16 or
‘17); 1-0 Suahelicus Cape Parrot (‘15 or ‘16); 0-1
Vinaceous Amazon Mature; 1-0 Red Bellied Parrot
Mature; 1-0 Green Wing Macaw (2 to 3 years old);
Please whatsapp if call is not answered. Contact
Cornelius on 0834085156
For sale/Te koop: African Grey (hand reared,
4 months old, tame and talkative) R2000.00.
Whatsapp 0780892580.
For sale/Te koop: White Belly Caiques (2017 pairs,
c/b, s/s, unrelated) R11 000.00 p/p. 0849524906.
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 mature or breeding Black
Wing Jardine. Contact Sumeshni on 0725327697 /
sparks@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Dusky Pionus (mature, p/r,
s/s, c/b) R3500.00; 1-1 Senegals mature (p/r, s/s,
c/b) R1800.00; 0-1 Black wing Jardine (4 yr, s/s,
a lot of red) R1500.00. (Perfect feather condition)
Contact Sumeshni on 0725327696 / sparks@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: Africa Grey (hand reared, 7 month
old, starting to speak) R2200.00 each. Contact Siep
on 0837737871 / botesanne@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 3-3 brpr Blue Fronted Amazons
R12 500.00; 1-1 brpr African Grey R6500.00; 0-0-
5 Blue Fronted Amazons (6 months old) R5000.00;
Or all Parrots with Cages and Nests for R65 000.00
neg. Large cage for Macaws, extra nests, mesh
for cages etc. Leslie van Deventer 0607822542 /
heinlezvd@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-0-0 Red Sided Eclectus
(2017, P/R) R3000.00. Contact Steve Nieuwoudt
0827801196.
For sale/Te koop: Red factor African Grey baby
(Hand-reared 12 weeks old) R3500.00. Please
phone 060 714 1551 (Durban based).
For sale/Te koop: Queen of Bavaria; Greys. Perry
082087309865 / perryw@mweb.co.za
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 mature White-bellied Caique
(yellow thighed). Contact Terry 0833094690.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Blue Fronted Amazons (1
yr old, unrelated, bonded pair, close banded)
R9000.00. Call 0722109814.
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-3 Blue fronted Parrots (2017,
Parent Reared, All in perfect condition) R 5400.00.
Western Cape transport can be arranged at buyers
cost. Contact Stevan Green on 0823236903 /
atthegreenhouse@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 white capped Pionus parrot
for urgent sale. Please make me an offer. Contact
MELLISSA on 0743725102 / mellissapillay6.mp@
gmail.com (situated in KZN South Coast).
For sale/Te koop: African Grey Parrot (10 week old,
hand reared, started to eat on its own) R1500.00.
Contact Yolanda Alberts on 0835229033 / wandaann@absamail.co.za
(springs area in Gauteng)
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Bronze Wing Pionus (Vet
checked, mature) R2500.00. Contact esbc on
0766526435 / elgoog007@gmail.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-1 White Crown Pionus; 2-0
Bronze Wing Pionus (2016/17); 1-0 Barbadensis
Amazon; 1-1 Double Yellow Amazon (2016/17); 1-0
Amboina King Parrot; 1-0 Yellow Crown (mature).
Contact esbc on 0766526435
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-0-5 Jong African Grey met rooi
sterte (ouderdom tussen 5-12 maande). Ek bied
R2000.00 / stuk. Contact on ruscioreanovidiu@
yahoo.com.
For sale/Te koop: 3-3 bonded pairs Congo Wild
caught African greys R5000.00 p/p. Kontak Stefan
0818060252.
For sale/Te koop: 2-2 Blue & Gold Macaws (checked
by C. Kingsley, mature, s/s); 1-1 Brpr Blue Fronted
Amazons; 1-0 Breeding Blue Fronted Amazon;
0-1 Blue Fronted Amazon (3 yr old s/s); 1-0 Blue
Head Pionus (s/s). Contact Clyde on 0792533864 /
handy.guyz@yahoo.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1-1 brpr Kakarikis (handreared);
0-0-1 Eclectus baby (on 3 feeds). Contact
Gen on 0824486690 / gen7409@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-1 Black wing Jardine baby
(currently 4 weeks old, talks very well) R1000.00.
Calls only during office hours 0845072692 (Durban,
KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Red Sided Eclectus baby (4
weeks old, green pin feathers, parents on view, 3
to 4 weeks old, 4 feeds per day) R2400.00. Calls
only during office hours 0845072692 (Durban, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 1-0 Blue Fronted Amazon (2
years old, hand-reared, DNA sexed, in excellent
condition) R6000.00. Call or whatsapp Zaheer
Ellahi 082 648 3866 (KZN, Stanger).
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-2 African Grey babas (5-6
weke oud) R1500.00. Contact Cobus Louw
0781201218 (Krugersdorp)
For Sale/Te koop: 0-3 breeding orange winged
amazon (mature) R6000.00 the lot; 4-0 blue
fronted amazon breeding (mature flighted)
R12000.00 the lot; 1-0 yellow naped amazon (1
year old C/B, P/R) R8000.00; 1-0 blue and gold
(mature, H/R, C/B) R12000.00 or will swop for
hen (blue and gold) or any other colour hen; 2-2
very good breeding pairs of blue fronted amazons
for R12000.00 a pair or R22000.00 for both pairs.
Wanted/Gesoek: 2-0 mature double yellow headed
amazon cocks. Contact: Ricky on 0829514554,
Alvin on 0829512429, Rob 0398001553 or email
mpbirds11@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Amazons; 1-1 brpr
Orange Wing (s/s, exc cond) R5000.00 neg.
Contact Morris on 0825172741 / morrisnaidoo09@
gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: African Grey Congo Redtail
babies (hand-reared, 7 weeks old) R2200.00 each.
Ismail 0849095189 (Durban)
54 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Pair lesser sulphur crested
cockatoo; 1-1 Pair Blue fronted Amazon; 1-1 Pair
Ghalas; 6-6 Pairs African Greys; 2-2 Pair Umbrella
cockatoos; 1 -1 Pair Camelot x Scarlet Macaw; 1
Ghala (Mature); 1 African Grey (+- 3 months old).
R215 000.00. Contact HENRIETTE on 0824164842
/ henriette.oost@yahoo.com
For sale/Te koop: Uitverkoping van Macaw en
Amazons boerdery - 2-2 brpr B&G Macaws R40
000.00 p/p; 7-7 brpr Blue fronted Amazons R15
000.00 p/p; 1-0 Volwasse Blue fronted Amazons
R7 500.00; 2-0 Blue fronted Amazons (2017) R5
000.00 elk. Melinda 0829293987.
For sale/Te koop: 6-6 brpr African Greys R6000.00
P/P; 2-2 brpr Timneh Greys R5000.00 P/P. Rede
vir verkoop: Staak stokperdjie. Contact Victor on
0828659077 (Pta) / victor@lewensverryking.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Solomon Eclectus (5
Year old, in perfect condition and close banded)
R8500.00. Call 0722109814.
For sale/Te koop: African Grey babies (about 12
weeks old) R1 600.00 each. Contact Diana on
0731534110 / dianajvr38@gmail.com (I am situated
near Middelburg Mpumalanga).
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Mature Blue & Gold Macaws;
1-1 brpr Mitred Conures; 1-1 brpr Finsch Conures;
1-1 brpr Sun Conures; 2-2 Pineapple Conures; 1-1
Quakers Albino/blue; 1-1 Quakers Lutino/Green; 1-1
Quakers Blue/Green. Don’t have time anymore for
them. Must go all together, Please no time wasters.
Contact Jaco on 0276267672 / j.paulsen66@gmail.
com
For sale/Te koop: 1-2 Blue headed Pionus (2018,
PR, related) R850.00 per bird, R2400.00 for the
group. Transport and case on buyers account.
Elaine 0836424105 (Stella area).
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr Blue fronted Amazons
R10000.00; 2-1 Blue fronted Amazons (2016
babies from above pair) R4000.00 each. Will
consider swapping above birds for Young Jardines
and Hahns Macaws. Contact Joshua Govender on
0825798244 / jsgovender@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-3 Blue Fronted Amazons at
R6000.00 each; 6-0 Blue Fronted Amazons at
R5000.00 each; 0-1 Orange Wing at R1500.00.
Contact Candice at 082 788 6206.
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 Solomon Eclectus (c/b, 2016,
or younger bird). Contact Julio on 0797115140 /
jscheepers48@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 volw Brpr Blue Fronted
Amazons R12 000.00. 0835579694 (Parys,
Vrystaat)
For sale/Te koop: 2-2 Blue Fronted Amazon
R15000.00 p/p; 3-3 Orange Wing Amazon R5000.00
p/p; 0-0-3 Orange Wing Amazon R2000.00 each;
1-1 White Fronted Amazon R7000.00 p/p; 1-1
Blue Headed Pionus R4000.00 p/p; 1-0 White
Belly Caique R5000.00; 1-1 Green-cheek Amazon
R12000.00 p/p; 15-15 African Grey R8000.00
p/p; 1-1 Lilac Crown Amazon R10 000.00 p/p; 1-1
Cuban Amazon R12000.00 p/p; 1-1 Red Fronted
Amazon R10000.00 p/p; 1-1 Blue Headed Mealy
Amazon R10000.00 p/p; 1-1 Galah R13000.00 p/p.
Ringnecks also available. All above are breeding
pairs. Reason for sell: Working in West Africa.
Contact Koos 083 468 6354 (Klerksdorp, North
West).
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0 volw red bellied parrot.
Contact Cornelius on 0834085156 / corneels@
fenceandgate.co.za
For sale/Te koop: Maximillian Pionus baby the
green and grey coloured ones. Contact Tharien on
0733092324 / tharienjansen@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Blue Fronted Amazons
(mature bonded, s/s, Male N/B, Female C/b) R15
000.00 p/p; 9-9 brpr African Greys (S/S, Banded) R6
000.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Timey Greys (S/S, Banded) R3
500.00 p/p; 1-1 brpr Senegals (S/S, N/B) R1 500.00
p/p; 1-0 Blue Fronted Amazons (mature, S/S, N/B)
R7 000.00 each; 1-0 Maximillian Pionus (mature,
S/S, C/B) R500.00 each; 1-1 White bellied Caiques
(Male 2014, Female 2017, S/S, C/B) R10 000.00
p/p; 1-0 White bellied Caiques (mature, 2014, S/S,
C/B) R5 000.00 each; 1-1 brpr Quaker green
(S/S, Male C/B, Female N/B) R1 000.00 p/p; 1-1
brpr Quaker blue x misty (S/S, C/B) R2 000.00 p/p;
1-0 Moustache (2017, S/S, C/B) R650.00 each.
Contact Willem on 0825542736 (Drummond, KZN)
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-2 African Grey (6 weke
oud) R1500.00 stuk. Contact Tinus Potgieter on
0828023727 / thinus@unifrutti.co.za (Hoedspruit
Limpopo).
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Lilacine Amazons R5000.00
p/p; 0-3 Double yellow headed Amazons R10
000.00 each; Blue fronted Amazons (unrelated
pairs) R7500.00 p/p; Yellow wing blue Fronted
Amazons (unrelated pairs) R12 000.00 p/p. Phillip
Lawrence 0827702670.
Wanted/Gesoek: African Grey Parrot (preferably a
baby). Contact KAREN on 0617787095 / karen@
kitchenstudio.com
For sale/Te koop: African Grey babas met rooi sterte
(Hand grootgemaak). Kontak Rene 0823717249
(Pretoria)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 BLUEFRONTED AMAZONS
(1 YR OLD, UNRELATED, BONDED PAIR, HEN
HAS ALOT OF YELLOW, BOTH CLOSE BANDED).
R9500.00 OR TO SWAP FOR A YOUNG TRITON
COCKATOO. CALL 0722109814.
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Solomon island Eclectus (PR,
2018, related) R6600.00 per pair. Contact Stella Tel
0723439866 (Durban)
1-1 Blue fronted Amazon’s (3 year old) R12500.00
per pair. Contact Stella Tel 0723439866 (Durban)
For sale/Te koop: 3-2 Blue Fronted Amazons (2016);
3-2 Blue Fronted Amazons (2017, H/R, DNA sexed)
R5 500.00 each. Contact Jose on 0829584161 /
jobefreitas@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Young pair of Oratrix Amazons for
sale R38 000.00. Contact Sandra on 0643110652 /
sandrakisten@yahoo.com
Wanted/Gesoek: 3-0 Black cap Caquies (c/b,
must be 2016 or 2017 birds). Contact Julio on
0797115140 / jscheepers48@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: Amazons - (2017, C/b, s/s, h/r).
2-2 Green Cheeks R10000.00 p/p; 3-2 Selvins.
R8000.00 p/p; 1-2 Red Lored R8000.00 p/p;
3-5 Blue Fronted R10000 p/p; 0-4 Yellow Crown
R4000.00 each; 0-1 Orange Wing R2000.00; 1-0
Double Yellow Head. R18000.00. 2016 Amazons
- 1-1 Lilac Crown. R8000.00 p/p; 2-2 Xanthops.
R20000.00 p/p. Caiques - 1-0 White Belly R4000.00
p/p; 3-3 Black Headed R6000.00 p/p. Pionus - 1-1
Bronze Wing. R7000.00 p/p; 2-0 Dusky. R2500.00
each; 3-0 Maximillian. R1500.00 each. Contact Lyn.
0658667388 or 0834684671 (Pretoria)
For sale/Te koop: Red factor African Grey baby
(Hand-reared 10 weeks old) R4000.00. Please
phone 060 714 1551 (Durban based.
For sale/Te koop: African Grey with Cage. The Parrot
is 5 years old. Contact Johann on 0813626947 /
nzbotha@telkomsa.net
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 brpr SOLOMAN ELECTUS
PARROTS (7 YR OLD) R8500.00. CALL
0722109814.
Wanted/Gesoek: 0-0-5 Jong African Grey met rooi
sterte (ouderdom tussen 5-12 maande). Ek bied
R1800.00 / stuk. Contact on ruscioreanovidiu@
yahoo.com.
For sale/Te koop: 3-3 Blue Fronted Amazones
(2017, s/s, c/b, h/r) R8 500.00 p/p; (Transport to
be arranged by buyer at buyer’s cost) Barend
(Harrismith) 058 6221001 / Sel: 083 2995290
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Bodini Amazons (c/b, vet
checked, hen layed 2017 for first time) R15 000.00;
1-1 BRPR Yellow crowned Amazons R15 000.00;
1-1 Yellow-naped Amazons (breeding hen) R40
000.00. Contact Corinne Johnson on 084 468 1000
/ johnsonccfam@gmail.com
For sale/Te koop: 0-0-2 African Grey babas (5-6
weke oud) R1500.00. Contact Tinus Potgieter on
0828023727 / thinus@unifrutti.co.za (Hoedspruit,
Limpopo)
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Yellow wing B/F Amazons
(c/b, s/s, 5yr old male with 7yr old proven breeding
hen) R18 000.00. Contact Ken Chiocchetti on
0796936908 / ken@coastlandsales.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 DY headed Amazons (2017,
c/b, s/s, unrelated) R20 000.00. Contact Ken
Chiocchetti on 0796936908 / ken@coastlandsales.
co.za
For sale/Te koop: 0-1 Red tailed African Grey
R2000.00. Call Seal 0836432630.
Wanted/Gesoek: 1-0-1 ECLECTUS RED SIDED.
Contact Andre on 082 958 5443 (Western Cape)
For sale/Te koop: 1-2 Red Lored Amazons
R8000.00 (p/r, c/b, s/s, h/r) Contact Lyn.
Stipinovich 0658667388 or 0834684671. (Pretoria,
Heatherdale).
For sale/Te koop: 3-0 Red Lored Amazon (p/r,
2017) R3500.00 each or swop for a female. Contact
Eliphas Makombe on 0798936383 / eliphas@
rugare.co.za
For sale/Te koop: 1-1 Blue fronted Amazons (rung,
s/s) R13000.00; 1-1 Mealy Amazons (8 years old,
rung, s/s) R10000.00. Great feather Condition.
Dean 0825796924 (JHB)
For sale/Te koop: King Red African Grey baby
(Hand-reared 8 weeks old) R6000.00. Please
phone 060 714 1551 (Durban based).
For sale/Te koop: African Grey with cage (not
sexed, prefer female, needs to go to loving home).
He comes with cage on wheels. Starting to talk
now, bout a year old. My neighbours complaining
bout him. R2500.00 not neg. Contact willem on
0813228324 / fwfservices@gmail.com
Wanted: Eclectus (Solomon, Vosmaeri, Red Sided)
Any Age; African Grey Babies; Any Caiques / Any
Age / Any Quantity. Contact Mac on 074 997 1180
(Call/SMS/Whatsapp) / salovepets@gmail.com
www.avizandum.co.za july 2018 55

CLUBS & ASSOCIATIONS
We would like to encourage any Club or Association that is not on this list to please contact us on 031 763 4054 or adverts@dennisonpublishing.co.za, so that we can place you on the
Avizandum’s list of “Clubs and Associations.” Listing on this page will be free of charge.
NATIONAL
SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL CAGE BIRD ASSOCIATION President
Peter Brummage 082 803 9346 Secretary Chris van der Linde 078
376 6961 / cvdlinde@netactive.vo.za
PARROT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION OF SA Elsabe Snyman 082
418 1555 / Lynette Vermeulen 0725337791 / pvsa@aviculturesa.co.za
BUDGERIGAR SOCIETY OF SA John Nel 081 569 1589 / bssa@
showbudgies.co.za / www.showbudgies.co.za
ASIATIESE PARKIET EN PAPEGAAI MUTASIE TELERS
VERENINGING Albert van Lingen 082 858 4172 / albert@dam-man.
co.za
DIE KAKARIKIE TELERS VEREENIGING VAN SUID AFRIKA
Voorsitter FRANCIOS VAN ZYL / Onder Voorsitter ANTHONY LUFF /
Sekratiris CHERYL LUFF SEL 0738636529
S A LOVEBIRDTELERSVERENIGING Vise Voorsitter: Karl Makram
082 379 3165 / salovebird@gmail.com / marleneto@telkomsa.net
INDIGENOUS BIRD BREEDERS RESEARCH GROUP
Neville Brickell (Director) 073 910 0414
SA SHOW POULTRY ORGANISATION / www.saspo.org.za /
GeorgeLuies@gmail.com / 072 435 4193
WATERFOWL ASSOCIATION OF SA 082 854 1181 /
henriettesutcliffe@yahoo.com
FINE FEATHERS BIRD CLUB (GAUTENG) (but with members
nationwide) Dries Louw 083 676 7060; Vice Chairman & Sec Wayne
& Santi Rundle 082 415 7481 / News Media Charlotte Metzer Tel 011
894 1967
THE GOULDIAN FINCH SOCIETY Secretary Russ Gillie 011 849 2737
/ Chairperson Gustav Schellack 060 970 5877 / admin@gouldian.co.za
SHOW POULTRY SA / www.poultryclubsa.co.za / 082 804 4158
UNIQUE CREATURES S.A. Chairman Mike van Wyk 076 978 8320 /
Secretary Sonja van Wyk 072 855 7381 / uniquecreatures.sa@gmail.
com
SOUTH AFRICAN FANCY PIGEON ASSOCIATION The Ringmaster
Mrs Netta Prince 041 365 7737 / 082 565 9022 / Safpa.Rings@axxess.
co.za
EASTERN CAPE / OOSKAAP
CACADU AVICULTURE ASSOCIATION (Port Elizabeth and
surrounds) Chairman: Nico Emmerich 076 371 6640 / nico.
emmerich1@gmail.com / Vice Chairman: Brendon Holmes 083 406
3168 / birdtrainers@gmail.com / Secretary: Rene Nedft cacadu.aa@
gmail.com
PORT ELIZABETH AND DISTRICT CAGE BIRD ASSOCIATION
Chairman: S. van Greunen 082 569 5858 / Secretary: Helena Granzier
072 436 7405
EAST CAPE BIRD CLUB Chairman: Marthinus Stolk 073 403 5768 /
Secretary: Andre Bower 083 448 1087
KAROO BIRD CLUB Somerset East, Cradock, Molteno, Middelburg,
Graaff-Reinet, Aberdeen, Jansenville, Pearston and Queenstown.
Chairman Gary Wiehahn 083 566 4896 / Secretary Johan van der
Merwe
GOULDVELDSE KOUVOËL VERENIGING Chairman Jan
Greyvenstein 082 339 2133 Secretary Hennie van der Merwe 083 344
1361 / henniefrill@gmail.com
EAST LONDON CAGE BIRD SOCIETY Chairman Hedley Sansom /
Secretary Debbie Sansom / eastlondoncagebirdsociety@gmail.com
FREE STATE / VRYSTAAT
FREE STATE POULTRY CLUB. Membership fees are R100 annually,
membership fees for under 16 years are R50.00. Everyone welcome.
Contact Ben Janse van Rensburg on 082 734 9028 / ben@sjsales.
co.za
BLOEMFONTEIN PTV: Chairman:Johan Myburgh 083 455 1283 /
jmyburgh@oldmutualpfa.com. Vice-Chairman: Charl Swart 082 789
5433 / crs@vodamail.co.za. Sekretarisse: Malene Niemand 083 641
2346 / papagaai175@gmail.com
KOSMOS (Harrismith) Marthen Scorgie Tel 058 622 1423 / 083 239
9130 / Fax 058 622 3409
KROONSTAD KROMBEK VOëLKLUB Raymond Hearn 056 213 2796
/ 084 524 4636 / Fax 056 213 2796 / ray.krd@gmail.com / Secretary
Sonja Nell 084 510 2168 / 056 212 6652
OOS-VRYSTAAT (Ficksburg) Johan Kotze Tel 051 933 9700 / 082 440
4402 / Fax 051 933 2126
ROSESTAD BIRD CLUB (Finches, Waxbills & Softbills, Pigeons)
Andre Berry 082 804 6878 / andreberry@telkomsa.net
ORANJE POULTRY CLUB E-mail: ljjl@mtnloaded.co.za /
083 306 9467
BLOEMFONTEIN OLD ENGLISH GAME CLUB 082 712 4770 /
babsvanee@telkomsa.net
HIGHVELD BORDER & FIFE FANCY CANARY SOCIETY Chairman
Theo Oates 082 412 1802 Secretary Chris van der Linde 078 376 6961
/ cvdlinde@netactive.co.za
REEF CAGE BIRD SOCIETY Chairman Ari du Toit 082 561 49 20
Secretary Helena Rautenbach 082 822 1489 / rautenbachhp@gmail.
com
VRYSTAAT BUDJIE VERENIGING Andre Scholtz (Chairman) 072 204
4791 / Jan Brits (Secretary) 083 378 8845 (Bothaville) / janbrits1353@
gmail.com
BLOEMFONTEIN KOUVOËL VERENIGING / Voorsitter Frik Nel 083
354 3080 / Sekretaris/Skou-sekretaris Johan Venter 082 899 3681 /
johan.venter@mangaung.co.za
GAUTENG
MAGALIES Frans Van Den Berg 081 354 9021 / 011763 2747 /
vdbergfj@telkom.co.za.
PRETORIA PAPEGAAI KLUB Charl Swanepoel, Tel 012 255 5993 /
082 337 8084 / Fax 012 555 5993 / charlswanepoel@absamail.co.za /
Secretary Willie Scheepers 083 253 3264 / Fax 012 542 1382
PRETORIA POULTRY CLUB / GeorgeLuies@gmail.com 082 654
8938
VAALDRIEHOEK POULTRY CLUB / martiebaden@webmail.co.za
082 400 8957
HONEYDEW VOËLKLUB (Peterweg, Roodepoort) Voorsitter:
Kobus Boshoff; O/Voorsitter: Kriek Badenhorst; Sekretaresse: Martie
Badenhorst Tel 010 222 0651 / 082 511 9090
GOULDIAN FINCH SOCIETY (Jhb) Secretary Russ Gillie 011 849
2737 / Chairperson Gustav Schellack 060 970 5877 / admin@gouldian.
co.za
VALKE VOËLTELERS KLUB (Vereeniging omgewing) Voorsitter:
Christo Valentine - 0837332935 / valentinechristo@yahoo.com /
Sekretaresse: Gavin Goold - 0832818589
CARLETONVILLE VOËLKLUB Voorsitter Nico Prinsloo 079 896 3247
/ nicoprinsl@gmail.com
KWA-ZULU NATAL
VRYHEID Chairman: Andre Barnard 034 980 9043 / 081 363 3136 |
Barnaaj@telkomsa.net / Secretary: Carel Muller 034 981 6306 / 073
300 0431 / Fax: 086 553 8899 / mullercf@mweb.co.za
ZULULAND AVICULTURAL SOCIETY (Richard’s Bay) Rob Sedice 083
461 5764 (Chairman) / Chris Knoetze 083 890 0108 (Vice-Chiarman)
/ Karin Knoetze 083 890 0040 (Secretary) / Jenny Timms 082 349
7054 (Treasurer) / Chuck & Kyla Lukan 082 555 5985 (Social media) /
Madalene Daly 083 375 4999 (Social) / www.zululandaviculturalsociety.
co.za / Facebook: Zululand Avicultural Society
NATAL & COAST POULTRY CLUB Tim Nixon 079 893 8610 /
featherston@iuncapped.co.za
PIETERMARIZBURG PARROT & ASIATIC BIRD CLUB, Contact
0822229690 or 0815608572.
PIETERMARITZBURG CANARY AND CAGE BIRD CLUB Chairman
Yogan Pillay 060 966 5199 / yoganp@cmh.co.za / Secretary RW
Ronne 072 375 9052
DURBAN FINCH BREEDERS Chairman: Peter Greeneway 083
537 2891 / Vice Chairman: Taffy Pelser 083 262 7531 taffy@
thunderauctioneers.co.za
DURBAN CANARY CLUB durbancanaryclub@gmail.com /
CHAIRMAN: NEIL ABBOT 082 907 1416 / CONTACT: STEWART
LETARD 082 796 9985
LIMPOPO
MOGOL (Ellisras) Jan van Breda Tel 014 763 5389 / 072 389 7419 Fax
014 763 5389 / janvbreda@hotmail.com / Secretary Jacoline Booyse
Tel & Fax 014 763 5038 / 084 583 5038 / booyserj@eskom.co.za
POULTRY CLUB SA / admin@poultryclubsa.co.za / 082 804 4158
BOSVELD VOËLVERENIGING (Modimolle) Voorsitter: Cois
Rigaard 082 822 8776 / crigaard@gmail.com / Fax 014 718 7639 /
Ondervoorsitter: Faan Heystek 073 212 0068
ZOUTPANSBERG VOËLTELERSVERENIGING Voorsitter Johnny
Gouws 072 576 1577 / gouwscreditconsultants@lantic.net /
Ondervoorsitter Tonie Becker 084 459 1682
MPUMALANGA
HOËVELD VOËLKLUB, Middelburg (Mpumalanga) Voorsitter Henry
Trigwell 072 104 8021 / henry.trigwell@gmail.com / Ondervoorsitter
Cois Minnaar 072 397 7917 / minnaar.cois@gmail.com / info@hvvk.
co.za
NELSPRUIT Dr P van Rensburg Tel & Fax 013 750 0433 / Secretary
Sylvia Otto Tel 013 744 1836 / qotto@xsinet.co.za
STANDERTON Neels Jooste 082 565 3309 / elandspoort.jooste@
gmail.com / Secretary Alet Higgens / alethiggens@gmail.com
MPUMALANGA POULTRY CLUB / E-mail: ermelo@scipwtb.co.za
083 299 2305
NORTHERN CAPE / NOORDKAAP
KLERKSDORP KANARIE KLUB Chairman Hennie Wiese 082 332
4210 Secretary Dries Wiese 076 279 7762 / wiesesmartie@gmail.com
POTCHEFSTROOM CANARY CLUB Chairman Derrick Warren 082
713 9549 Secretary Kappie van Wyk 082 713 95 49 / kappievw@gmail.
com
DIAMANTVELD VOËLKLUB (Kimberley) Voorsitter Arno Hattingh
083 468 6062 / arno.birds@gmail.com / Finansies Koos Fourie 083
650 7373 / koos.fourie@za.pwc.com / Piet Jacobs 082 821 9877 /
pj200birds@telkomsa.net
KATHU Flip Holtzhausen Tel 053 739 2120 / 083 304 0843 /
flip.holzhausen@kioltd.com / Secretary Len Vermeulen 083 285 1940 /
Fax 053 739 2951 / len.vermeulen@kioltd.com
UPINGTON Voorsitter: Ivon Joubert 072 383 6539 / Ondervoorsitter:
Ansa Luttig 082 443 9073 / Sekretaresse: Elmien Kruger 076 035 1740
/ Email: uptvoelklub@gmail.com
VRYBURG RIETHAAN POULTRY CLUB E-mail: janjnel@gmail.com
/ Tel 053 927 3411
NORTH WEST / NOORDWES
KOSH (Klerksdorp) Voorsitter/Veilingsvoorsitter: Stokkies Stokbroekx
082 704 4378 / stokkies.stokbroekx@gmail.com / Sec Martie Beneke
018 473 0841 / 082 413 8471 / janmar@gds.co.za
BRITS Coen Meyer Tel 012 2541038 / 082 715 2220 / bbole@mweb.
co.za / Sek Mev Grobler Tel & Faks 012 252 5636 / 083 535 4194
CAPE CAGE BIRD SOCIETY Chairman Dawie van Tonder
082 323 1862 Secretary Pierre van Tonder 076 754 6801 /
capecagebirdsociety@gmail.com
CAPETOWN BIRD CLUB Chairman Johan van Staden 082 558 7043
Secretary Graham Forsberg 082 818 1713 / graham.peter.forsberg@
gmail./com
SWD KANARIE KOUVOËL VERENIGING Chairman Bennie
Kleynhans 084 588 1010 Sectretary Suzanne Snyders 044 272 8034 /
bowlesdrukkers@absamail.co.za
POTCHEFSTROOM VOËLTELERSKLUB Jaap Wessels Tel 018 297
6907 / 083 367 6599 / Fax: 018 297 6907 jaapw@potch.co.za / Sek
Louw Erasmus Tel 018 290 5860
STELLALAND (Ottosdal) Voorsitter Hendrik Visser 082 332 6571 /
Sekretaris Keadie Jacobs 083 580 3231 / stellalandveilling@gmail.com
VERREWES (Lichtenburg) Fanie Klopper Tel 018 633 1108 / 083
632 7325 / Fax 086 669 0224 / krediteure@nwk.co.za / Sek Sampie
Pretorius / Tel & Fax 018 632 3513 / 084 628 6687 srpretorius@yahoo.
com
RUSTENBURG POULTRY CLUB Tonywigwam@mweb.co.za 082
788 6130
KALAHARI (Vryburg) Gerald van der Linde 082 493 4864 / mabulaf@
lantic.net / Dolf Cloete 082 660 3266 / dcloete@arc.agric.za
SCHWEIZER RENEKE Lourens Pienaar 082 773 3822 / Fax 053 963
1057
WESTERN CAPE / WESKAAP
BOLAND VOELKLUB Voorsitter Guy van Zyl 082 492 1253 / Sekretaris
Lionel Adams 084 042 2950
OOSTENBERG Voorsitter: Gerrie Buckley 084 432 6175 / gerriesa@
gmail.com / Sekretaris: Alex Rippenaar 082 893 5455 / alec.rippenaar@
muchasphalt.com
WESTERN CAPE POULTRY CLUB E-mail: naomidt@breede.co.za
/ 082 468 8826
OVERBERG Evert Kleinhans Tel 028 840 0941 / 084 293 2490 /
Fax 028 840 0941 / mardine@live.co.za
EDEN PARROT CLUB FOR EDEN DISTRICT Chairman Coennie
Basson 082 465 9393 / 044 873 2814 (H) (George) / Sec Gideon Swart
079 492 3889 / 044 803 1041 (W) gidswa@telkomsa.net
WP BREEDERS CLUB Chairman: Allen Burgess 0824445265 /
Secretary: Steven Bellingan 0829344749 / stevenbellingan10@gmail.
com
NAMIBIA
AVICULTURE ASSOCIATION OF NAMIBIA Chairperson Oosie
Oosthuizen +264 81 122 1742 / oosie@hemconamibia.com
NORTHERN REGIONAL CAGE BIRD ASSOC
BOKSBURG CANARY CLUB Chairman: Jose Batista 082 690 3431
Secretary Aletta Pedro 072 586 7398 / alet@universalflooring.co.za
DRIEHOEK CANARY CLUB Chairman Franki van Heerden 083
207 0040 Secretary Danie Henwood 072 991 4343 / dhenwood@
sanlam4u.co.za
GLOSTER & POSTER CANARY CLUB Secretary L Beirowski 082 553
0517 / leonieb@iemas.co.za
HIGHVELD AVICULTURAL SOCIETY Secretary J Shorter 084 587
2167 / shorter89@gmail.com
HONEYDEW BIRD CLUB Scretary M Badenhorst 082 511 9090 /
martie.badenhorst@gauteng.gov.za
INDABA NYONI CLUB Chairman Duncan Prinsloo Secretary Helena
Potgieter 082 775 6921 / helenapotgieter7@gmail.com
JACARANDA SHOW BUDGIE SOCIETY Secretary John Nel 081 569
1589 / nelja@telkomsa.net
PRETORIA CAGE BIRD CLUB Secretary CI Weyer 012 345 2617 /
liweyer@mweb.co.za
SASOL CAGE BIRD CLUB Secretary Mrs S Hugo 017 634 4897 /
hugos@secunda.co.za
SUIKERBOSRAND CANARY CLUB Secretary C vd Linde 011 818
2321 / cvdlinde@netactive.co.za
SA LOVEBIRD BREEDERS ASSOCIATION Chairman Albert van
Lingen 082 858 4172 / Vice-Chairman Karl Markram 082 379 3165 /
Secretary Ryan Day 083 634 3688 / salovebird@gmail.com
TRANSVAAL ROLLER CANARY SOCIETY Secretary T Marshall 011
972 7052 / angie@cargocarriers.co.za
THE GOULDIAN FINCH SOCIETY Secretary Russ Gillie 011 849 2737
/ Chairperson Gustav Schellack 060 970 5877 / admin@gouldian.co.za
TRANSVAAL ZEBRA FINCH SOCIETY SecretaryMarie Nortje 082
772 6108 / marie.nortje@mweb.co.za
WESTRAND BIRD CLUB Secretary S Veiera 084 699 2061 /
tarltonelectric@telkomsa.net
BUDGIE CLUBS IN SA
BUDGERIGAR SOCIETY OF SOUH AFRICA (BSSA) Ian Bleasdale
(president) ian.budgie@gmail.com Albert (chairman) 082 490 2251
BSSA@showbudgies.co.za John Nel (Administartor) 081 569 1589 /
nelja@telkomsa.net. www.showbudgies.co.za
AWEEBSA Assossiation for wild-type and exhibition Budgies in South
Africa) Secretary Suzanne Lucas 073 515 9175 / Chairman Johan
Lucas 083 334 9945 / Ring Co-Ordinator Rynier Burger 072 268 5000
CAPE PENINSULA BUDGERIGAR SOCIETY (W/Cape) Hicmet Jaffer
/ 083-897 1873 / hjaff1982@gmail.com
CAPE TOWN BUDGIE CLUB (W/Cape) LE Phillips 072 493 7019 /
lynedith.phillips@gmail.com
EAST LONDON BUDGIE SOCIETY (E/Cape) DM Kruger 083 255
3254 / elbs@showbudgies.co.za
EAST RAND BUDGIE SOCIETY (Gauteng) Dawid Gresse (Secretary)
/ 0837773867 / dawidg@andru.co.za
GAUTENG BUDGIE CLUB (Gauteng) Liza Kotzee 079 963 5569 /
Kotzee.aviaries@gmail.com
JACARANDA SHOW BUDGIE SOCIETY (Gauteng) J A Nel 081 569
1589 / nelja@telkomsa.net http://jsbs.showbudgies.co.za
KAROO BUDGIE CLUB (E/Cape) Jeanette Fouche (Secretary) 072
538 1571
NORTHERN CAPE BUDGIE SOCIETY (N/Cape) PR Holzhausen 071
610 0390 / prh@lantic.net
PREMIER BUDGIE CLUB (Gauteng) Russel Clements (Secretary) 083
264 3161 / 9024@worldonline.co.za
PMBBC (KZN) Chairman LO Sydenham 083 405 0359 / pops@
gracenet.co.za / Sec HK Sydenham 033 396 9407 / pops@gracenet.
co.za
REGAL BUDGERIGAR SOCIETY (Member of AWEBSA-Gauteng)
Chairman R.D. Ford 011 815 1447 / ford007@mweb.co.za / Sec
Marlene Emslie 083 231 1331 / marlene@sheernostalgia.co.za
SBC (Gauteng) Chaiman J Lucas 083 334 9945 / johanllucas91@
gmail.com / Sec SJ Lucas 073 515 9175 / suzieqzn@gmail.com
TYGERBERG BUDGIE CLUB (W/Cape) J Dunlop 074 200 9112 /
jdunlop@mweb.co.za
VAALDRIEHOEK BUDGIE KLUB (OFS) HJ Hein 082 495 9133 / estie.
hein@vodamail.co.za
VRYSTAAT BUDGIE VEREENIGING (OFS) Jan Brits 083 378 8845
/ janbrits1353@gmail.com / Andre Scholtz (Chairman) 072 204 4791
56 july 2018 www.avizandum.co.za

Breeding cage and aviary birds is complex and
demands a significant amount of expertise.
Specific food and care is necessary at
every stage, so our avian experts have
created a wide specialized range.
As a result of their expertise,
your cage and aviary bird can
also benefit from top quality
products.
Product
of
Belgium
For more information on the
Versele-Laga and Nutribird
product ranges, visit our
website at
www.versele-laga.com
Trade Enquiries:
Marltons Pet Products
helpdesk@marltons.co.za
www.marltons.co.za

Bester Birds
&
Animals cc
CC 87/05133/23
BLACK
FACED IBIS
BLACK IBIS
WAS R54000 PAIR
NOW R75000
GROUP OF 5
WAS R33000 PAIR
NOW R45000
GROUP OF 5
BLUE-
FRONTED
AMAZON
R9500
PER PAIR
BONDED
AFRICAN
GREYS
R15000
PER PAIR
FULLY ADULT
BONDED
Physical Address: 44 Simon Vermooten Road, Willow Glen, Pretoria
Postal Address: P O Box 72378, Lynwood Ridge 0040, Pretoria, Republic of South Africa
Tel: (012) 807-4192 Tel: (012) 807-2574 Fax: (012) 807-1429