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£4.50 JULY/AUGUST 2018<br />
JULY/AUGUST 2018<br />
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM<br />
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Editor’s letter<br />
IN ASSOCIATION WITH<br />
For this issue of Creative HEAD, editor Amanda and her team took a<br />
step back and invited us, the NEW generation of hairdressers, to take over.<br />
Brave? Most definitely, as this is an industry first. Foolish? Well... we’ll see!<br />
But seriously, the five of us feel very privileged to be such a big part of this issue.<br />
Across its pages, we’ll be taking charge and discussing the big issues we feel are impacting<br />
our generation of stylists (social media has A LOT to answer for), putting questions to a hair<br />
hero (OMG - Angelo Seminara!), getting career guidance from business guru Ken West (legend),<br />
and trying to convey who we are to you lovely lot with our own curated and edited pages.<br />
We hope you enjoy reading our efforts as much as we enjoyed working on them, and we’ll cross<br />
our fingers that this illustrates that while many complain about the young apprentices and stylists<br />
coming into hairdressing today, we are actually a passionate, creative and hard-working<br />
bunch who are dealing with challenges that just didn’t exist for previous generations.<br />
We also want to prove just why hairdressing is the best career to get stuck into...<br />
See you on the other side!<br />
The Generation Z Team x<br />
The new editors of Creative HEAD<br />
(Quick! Someone lock Amanda in the beauty<br />
cupboard, we fancy doing this again next issue!)<br />
creativeheadmag.com<br />
creativeheadmagofficial<br />
@creativeheadmag
<strong>July</strong>/August<br />
WHAT’S INSIDE<br />
88<br />
FASHION<br />
Casey Coleman and<br />
Jodie Austen explore<br />
avant-garde and editorial<br />
56<br />
GENERATION Z<br />
Five up-and-coming stylists discuss the<br />
difficulties and delights of starting out<br />
96<br />
FREE INSIDE<br />
MISTER QUARTERLY<br />
SCENE<br />
Revlon Professional<br />
Style Masters<br />
International Final<br />
hits Barcelona and<br />
Coterie: In Session<br />
returns to London<br />
ON THE COVER<br />
Hair by Percy & Reed<br />
at the L’Oréal Colour<br />
Trophy Grand Final.<br />
Photography by<br />
Ambra Vernuccio<br />
EDITOR<br />
AMANDA NOTTAGE<br />
DEPUTY EDITOR<br />
BETH DAVIE<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
NICK JABBAL<br />
DIGITAL DESIGNER<br />
EVA VESTMANN<br />
CHIEF SUB EDITOR<br />
ADAM WOOD<br />
STAFF WRITER<br />
ANNA SAMSON<br />
CONTRIBUTOR<br />
DEBORAH MURTHA<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
LAURA TUCKER<br />
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE<br />
DAVID HAMMOND<br />
ONLINE AND<br />
DIGITAL EDITOR<br />
ALISON ROWLEY<br />
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER<br />
JENNY LE<br />
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR<br />
JOANNA ANDERSEN<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
CATHERINE HANDCOCK<br />
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The Dyson Supersonic<br />
Professional edition.<br />
Re-engineered for you.<br />
#dysonprohair
A healthy return<br />
With the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional<br />
edition, you’ve got styling stealth to keep hair in its<br />
best health. Discover how...<br />
Blasting air at high temperatures towards hair is going to have an impact<br />
– that’s just a fact. You spray and smooth heat protectors over strands to<br />
shield as best you can, but the regular use of heated styling tools is going<br />
to mean heat-damaged hair. And that’s before any accidental mishaps, like<br />
hair being sucked into the filter.<br />
But what if your hair dryer, the piece of styling kit you rely on most, could<br />
actually help keep hair strong and healthy? That has to be something your<br />
client would love, right? The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional<br />
edition has been engineered to dry hair quickly while also minimising<br />
damage. It’s time for a science lesson...<br />
When hair is washed or wet, the hair strands absorb water and swell,<br />
increasing in diameter by up to 16 per cent. As this happens, the outer<br />
cuticle layer becomes slightly rougher, making it more susceptible to<br />
damage and breakage. To keep this at a minimum, it’s vital that hair is<br />
dried quickly yet gently, using the right combination of heat and air flow.<br />
Hair regains its dry strength and the cuticle can return to its normal shape.<br />
The engineers at Dyson examined healthy and damaged hair using<br />
electron microscopes and light chambers to understand how light reflects<br />
from the hair. Their research showed that with extreme heat, the structures<br />
within the hair become damaged. The result? Weaker hair that’s less shiny<br />
as light scatters off the hair rather than reflecting evenly.<br />
That’s why they created Intelligent Heat Control. While some hair dryers<br />
can reach very high temperatures and cause extreme heat damage to hair,<br />
the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition has a glass bead<br />
thermistor that measures the temperature 20 times a second. Yes, 20.<br />
The microprocessor intelligently controls the patented double-stacked<br />
heating element, avoiding extreme heat.<br />
It also uses Dyson’s patented Air Multiplier technology. Sounds<br />
impressive, and it is – the volume of the air drawn into the motor is<br />
amplified by three, producing a high pressure, high velocity jet of air. That<br />
focused jet is angled at 20° to deliver controlled, precise drying and styling.<br />
For super-shiny hair, the Supersonic doesn’t work alone. It has three,<br />
super-strong magnetic attachments that control the air flow and help<br />
you keep frizz and flyaways at bay. You’ll love the re-engineered Dyson<br />
Professional concentrator with a wider and thinner nozzle, while the<br />
Smoothing Nozzle quickly removes excess water and dries hair smooth<br />
with a gentle touch. And with texture so on-trend right now, the Dyson<br />
Diffuser will be a firm favourite. Simulating natural drying, it helps to reduce<br />
frizz and deliver gorgeously defined curls.<br />
Science class dismissed. Now, choose your nozzle and get styling...<br />
Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week<br />
S/S18. Models styled using the Dyson<br />
Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition
#dysonprohair<br />
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
We’re feeling<br />
Supersonic<br />
You spoke, they listened. Say hello to the<br />
Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional<br />
edition, re-engineered and ready for your salon<br />
You have exacting standards. As a professional hair stylist, your tools<br />
need to be perfect, extensions of your hands to enable you to craft,<br />
to thrill. With your client, perfection is an obsession – in your salon,<br />
backstage, on shoots. That’s something you have in common with a<br />
Dyson engineer…<br />
More than two years ago, teams of Dyson engineers worked with<br />
renowned hair stylists to develop a bespoke-designed hair dryer for<br />
professionals. As with any piece of technology, Dyson’s engineers<br />
are never satisfied. You spoke; they listened. Those teams absorbed<br />
all the feedback stylists had from the salon front line, and they set<br />
themselves a new task – making the Supersonic truly superb for the<br />
demands of everyday salon use.<br />
This is a premium hair dryer re-engineered for your needs, day in<br />
and day out.<br />
You’ll find an improved filter, built to handle all the super-hold<br />
hairspray your team can mist. And what makes this extra clever is<br />
that it’s magnetic, removable and washable (you even get a tailored<br />
cleaning brush to help you do the job – and your dryer has a little light<br />
to prompt you when it needs a clean).<br />
Magnetic attachments are now even stronger, so you won’t knock<br />
them off when blow-styling hair at 60mph. You also get a wider and<br />
thinner nozzle that focuses air flow for laser-focused precision styling<br />
and, with cool grip edges, you won’t burn your fingers either.<br />
Flexibility? Naturally – with an even longer cable (it’s now 3.3<br />
metres) you can manoeuvre yourself around your client with ease.<br />
This is all on top of the fabulous fundamentals – inside each<br />
Dyson Supersonic is powerful Dyson digital motor V9 that’s six-times<br />
faster than other hair dryer motors,* and hidden in the handle for<br />
better balance. Fused with its clever Air Multiplier technology, the<br />
Supersonic produces a high-velocity jet of controlled air. Buckle up –<br />
this is faster drying combined with precision styling.<br />
But there’s no shouting over the din of your dryer – those Dyson<br />
engineers think of everything. Acoustically tuned and boasting a Quiet<br />
Mark, you can actually enjoy a conversation with your client and your<br />
team won’t be battling against a relentless wall of noise every hour<br />
of their working day. Oh, and let’s be totally honest here, it also looks<br />
really cool. Get the #dysonprohair hashtag ready, because you’ll want<br />
to share.<br />
Ultimately, we know you pride yourself on offering exceptional client<br />
experiences every time someone is in your chair. Let Dyson help you<br />
deliver exactly that…<br />
“This little beauty packs such a<br />
punch. A big, big plus for me is<br />
the increased magnet strength –<br />
it’s twice as strong as before”<br />
Dylan Bradshaw<br />
Dylan Bradshaw, Dublin<br />
Most Wanted Exceptional Stylist<br />
winner 2016 and 2017<br />
Dyson ambassador<br />
“It’s a must-have for all<br />
professional stylists. The 3.3<br />
metre cable gives me so much<br />
more mobility. Trust me. You need<br />
it in your kit”<br />
Larry King<br />
Larry King Salon, London<br />
Dyson ambassador<br />
*tested against 20 bestselling hair dryers as at February 2017
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
Stand up guys<br />
It’s easy to keep all your Dyson<br />
Supersonic hair dryer Professional<br />
editions in one place with the magnetic<br />
presentation stand. And just think what<br />
an impact it will have on clients when<br />
they see your Dyson Supersonic hair<br />
dryer Professional editions all lined up.<br />
No wonder Larry King has one at each<br />
work station at his salon...<br />
#dysonprohair
Ready for take-off<br />
The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is<br />
the destination; behind it, there’s an incredible journey…<br />
Most hair dryers are, in the eyes of leading engineers, dumb things – noisy, heavy,<br />
non-ergonomic and delivering heat damage to hair. The team at Dyson, squirrelled<br />
away in its labs in the Cotswolds, were convinced there was a better, more<br />
intelligent way. And that way takes a lot of work – £56m was spent on building hair<br />
science labs and conducting painstaking research before a single hair dryer was<br />
sold. Over four years, 103 Dyson engineers, including scientists and stylists, looked<br />
at everything from air flow dynamics to hair’s cellular structure, completing tests<br />
using nearly 1,625km of hair. A total of £75m has been spent to craft and then reengineer<br />
the Dyson Supersonic and the Professional edition.<br />
Advanced scanning electron microscopes let Dyson scientists look at single<br />
strands of human hair in high definition after testing. Why? To understand the<br />
structure of hair and which elements cause splits, holes and other damage. Tensile<br />
tests measures the strength and elasticity of each hair strand before and after drying<br />
and styling, by stretching the strand until it breaks. Healthy hair remains strong<br />
and elastic while damaged hair is easier to break. Thermal cameras allow Dyson<br />
engineers to understand the temperature of the airflow coming out of the machine,<br />
ensuring it’s consistent throughout, even when pushed close to your client’s head or<br />
to a brush. The Real Imaging Test Algorithm machine – known as RITA by the Dyson<br />
techs – provides a range of image settings specifically designed to highlight key hair<br />
stress characteristics and features, such as strand alignment, flyaways and frizz.<br />
Particle Image Velocimetry allowed Dyson engineers to measure the speed of<br />
the jet and visualise its shape. Get a deeper understanding of the jet structure and<br />
turbulence, and you can optimise the airflow. Aero-acoustic engineers listened to<br />
the sound of the Supersonic. By refining the design, those engineers have created<br />
a tone that we humans can’t even hear.<br />
It took 582 prototypes until those Dyson perfectionists were satisfied. The Dyson<br />
Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is number 583. Patience is a virtue...<br />
“No gimmicks; this had to perform. The Supersonic was<br />
the most difficult project we’ve worked on – I thought this<br />
machine wasn’t going to make it at least eight times – but<br />
our technology level increases all the time. We’ve reinvented<br />
everything you’re used to seeing with a hair dryer”<br />
Stephen Courtney<br />
Concept director, Dyson
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
Please take care<br />
of this hair (dryer)<br />
The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is a<br />
precisely-engineered machine that’s premium<br />
perfection. Please add a little TLC…<br />
Some stylists are obsessive when it comes to maintaining their kit bags. Everything<br />
has its place; some items have a history, being by your side at seminal moments.<br />
There are regular rituals to be observed to ensure prime performance from your<br />
most investment-heavy pieces. Just as you painstakingly oil your beloved scissors,<br />
and cleanse the hair and dust from your hard-bristled brushes, you can now add<br />
another little ritual to ensure your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition,<br />
an investment in itself, performs at its very best in the toughest of conditions –<br />
from broom cupboard-sized rooms backstage at Fashion Week to the busiest of<br />
Saturdays in a high street salon. We all need a moment of calm, and maintenance<br />
of your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition can provide you with a little<br />
retreat, a chance to think. This hair dryer is highly-tuned and its technology must<br />
be kept free from dust and the residue from the dozens of products used everyday.<br />
Invest in a Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition and in the box you’ll find<br />
everything you need; alongside those snappy magnetic attachments, you’ll see a<br />
spare filter cage, a C-shaped filter cleaning brush, a filter cage wrap and details on<br />
how best to tend to your new machine. A flashing white light even tells you when it<br />
needs a freshen-up if you forget.<br />
Once a week, take a moment to clean your filter. It snaps off in a second, and<br />
a little shower under a warm tap works wonders. When using that clever brush,<br />
slide it over the filter cage and rotate to dislodge any sticky residue or pesky hair<br />
clippings. Once clean, pop the cage back on and it’s ready to start all over again.<br />
Perfect your filter<br />
know-how – see the<br />
video at dyson.co.uk/<br />
professionalhaircare<br />
#dysonprohair
Endorsed by stylists<br />
Dyson wanted professional stylists to be frank. “Don’t be nice or we’ll never improve,”<br />
said the engineers. Dozens of hairdressers around the globe told them exactly what they<br />
thought… and Dyson took those comments on board, and re-engineered the Supersonic<br />
to deliver for you, every day<br />
“It’s acoustically tuned so<br />
you have to be careful what<br />
you say now, because<br />
everyone can hear you!<br />
It’s so well balanced you<br />
can finally break up with<br />
your chiropractor. And we<br />
know hair stylists never clean<br />
their filters. Now we have<br />
no excuses. It’s removable<br />
and magnetic”<br />
Jen Atkin<br />
Celebrity stylist<br />
Dyson ambassador<br />
“My clients deserve the best<br />
so it’s important we set the<br />
standards, so they know we’re<br />
giving proper thought to the<br />
hair they wear every day.<br />
Take a Dyson Supersonic<br />
hair dryer Professional edition<br />
for two weeks, and you’ll<br />
be converted”<br />
Dylan Bradshaw<br />
Dylan Bradshaw, Dublin<br />
Most Wanted Exceptional Stylist<br />
winner 2016 and 2017<br />
Dyson ambassador<br />
“Dyson engineers have<br />
made subtle improvements<br />
to what is already an<br />
incredible machine, making<br />
it the perfect tool for a<br />
professional stylist. Hair<br />
health is really important to<br />
me and I love knowing that<br />
I can trust it to protect my<br />
clients’ natural shine. It never<br />
leaves my side!”<br />
Larry King<br />
Larry King Salon, London<br />
Dyson ambassador<br />
The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is available now.<br />
Are you ready to go Supersonic? For an exclusive stylist price (once you’ve been<br />
confirmed as a stylist) call Dyson on 0800 3457788 (UK) / 01 4757109 (IRL).<br />
To find out more, visit dyson.co.uk/professionalhaircare #dysonprohair
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM<br />
SPRING<br />
S U M M E R<br />
2018<br />
01_Runway_Covers_GW4.indd 1 22/01/2018 11:39<br />
CLUB<br />
creativeheadmag.com/club<br />
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RUNWAY<br />
FOR JUST<br />
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HEAD magazine – and<br />
supplements including<br />
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Power Book – delivered<br />
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WIN a Celeb Luxury goody bag,<br />
worth £131.75!<br />
Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for<br />
you, too! Club members have the chance to win a Celeb Luxury goody bag<br />
that includes all of the above PLUS Celeb Luxury Gem Lites Colorwash in<br />
Ruby, Flawless Diamond and Brown Tahitian Pearl. To be in with a chance of<br />
winning, simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link<br />
to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD members<br />
will receive an email on 1 <strong>July</strong>!<br />
FOR<br />
CREATIVE<br />
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MEMBERS<br />
ONLY<br />
*For the fi rst 25 new members to sign up between 1 <strong>July</strong> and 31 <strong>July</strong> 2018.<br />
Subject to availability and no cash equivalent will be offered.
The edit<br />
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY<br />
FIGURES REVEAL<br />
SHARP DROP IN<br />
APPRENTICESHIPS<br />
SINCE THE INTRODUCTION of the<br />
Trailblazer apprenticeships last May, there<br />
has been a decline in the number of new<br />
apprentices across all sectors. Overall, there<br />
has been a loss of more than 75,000 on those<br />
starting their programmes between August<br />
2017 and January 2018, compared with the<br />
same period in the previous year.<br />
The data was released by the Department<br />
for Education and further revealed that<br />
there are currently just under 5,000 learners<br />
on hairdressing Trailblazer or framework<br />
apprenticeship programmes, compared with<br />
more than 8,000 hairdressing apprenticeship<br />
starts at NVQ Level 2 in the last academic year.<br />
Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, said:<br />
“It is difficult to tell whether hairdressing<br />
apprenticeships are also down compared<br />
with previous years because the drop has<br />
coincided with the changeover to the new<br />
Trailblazer standards, as well as changes to<br />
apprenticeship funding. However, there is a lot<br />
of ground to make up if the current number of<br />
starts are to reach last year’s levels.”<br />
Much has been made of the apprenticeship<br />
levy as the main reason for the drop in<br />
apprenticeship numbers, but Hellen Ward,<br />
chair of the hair professional Trailblazer,<br />
believes it’s more complicated than that as the<br />
levy only applies to businesses with a payroll<br />
bill of £3m or more a year – so very few salons<br />
would fall into the group.<br />
Keith Mellen, director at Anne Veck, has<br />
found the new hairdressing Trailblazer to<br />
be much better than the old standard of<br />
apprenticeships. He said: “The old framework<br />
didn’t work – for years salon owners had been<br />
saying it didn’t produce job-ready hairdressers,<br />
so it is a vast improvement. The old framework<br />
had become unpopular throughout the<br />
industry because of the fall in standards at<br />
NVQ Level 2.”<br />
MEET THE<br />
FINALISTS!<br />
Discover who made<br />
the Most Wanted and<br />
The It List Grand Final<br />
from page 44<br />
Judgement day<br />
for Most Wanted<br />
and The It List<br />
YOU ENTERED in your hundreds, but only a select few made it onto the<br />
2018 Most Wanted and The It List Awards shortlists. Each category was<br />
judged by its own panel of experts from inside and outside the industry,<br />
which saw a throng of names in hair, fashion, publishing and business– roll<br />
up to knuckle down and assess what was without doubt the toughest two<br />
days of judging – EVER. These included session stylists Nicola Clarke and<br />
Ken O’Rourke, The Daily Telegraph’s Sonia Haria and Vogue’s Jessica Diner,<br />
fashion designer Harry Evans and make-up artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis.<br />
The Grand Final takes places on 3 September at the Natural History<br />
Museum in Kensington. Tickets are sold out, but there’s a waiting list<br />
you can join. We hope to see you on the big night! See page 44 or visit<br />
creativeheadmag.com for more information<br />
SHE<br />
Loves!<br />
"Summer is in full swing, so we need to talk<br />
about leave-in conditioners, which are vital<br />
if clients are going to the beach as the sun<br />
and salt water will dry the hair. Not only<br />
does Innoluxe Elixir v2 work as a leave-in<br />
conditioner and a primer, it also acts as a<br />
top-up to the in-salon treatment"<br />
Tegan Robertson, Not Another Salon,<br />
part of the generation z team<br />
20
#CHedit<br />
MAZELLA & PALMER HOSTS<br />
FIRST GOLDWELL EVENING<br />
MEMBERS OF THE Goldwell salon business networking club – The HUB – were treated to an<br />
up-close-and-personal evening with the Mazella & Palmer International Creative Team.<br />
Taking place at Soho Hotel in London, guests were given a unique insight into the<br />
inspiration behind the cutting and colouring techniques for some of Mazella & Palmer’s most<br />
iconic collections, featuring video concepts and live model demonstrations. The showcase was<br />
led by Dove Palmer, who until recently has been travelling the world to teach hairdressers<br />
more about Mazella & Palmer’s concept ‘Not just how to cut hair but why’.<br />
CREATIVE HEAD EVENTS: JOIN US!<br />
Every year, the Most Wanted and The It List entries raise the bar to new heights and 2018’s feats of<br />
creativity, business nous and pure skill left the judges in awe, we can’t wait for the Grand Final – see<br />
page 44 for more! We can barely contain our excitement for Featured Artist Live on 16 <strong>July</strong>, where<br />
super stylist Nick Irwin and photography powerhouse Rankin will be letting you into their world, turn to<br />
page 50. Have you heard the news? Big Hair Do is back – mark Wednesday 26 September in your<br />
diaries and if you haven’t registered to take part, what are you waiting for? Only 100 salons can do the<br />
Do, so head online to register pronto – the opportunity to make A LOT of retail sales, attract new clients<br />
and re-engage existing ones awaits, all wrapped up in one mega nationwide party – see pages 48-49!<br />
Linton & Mac launches Future Talent programme<br />
THE AWARD-WINNING Scottish salon,<br />
Linton & Mac, has unveiled its Future<br />
Talent programme to champion young team<br />
members and help them to flourish. The<br />
programme aims to ensure all salon trainees<br />
and assistants receive the support and training<br />
they need to succeed in hairdressing.<br />
Jen Linton and Joanna MacDonald, codirectors<br />
of Linton & Mac, said: “From the<br />
moment we opened our doors, we were<br />
dedicated to finding great assistants. Our aim<br />
is to keep them driven and passionate, as well<br />
as excited and motivated.”<br />
The younger members are initially matched<br />
to a ‘buddy’ – a trained stylist – for three<br />
months, where they shadow them to watch<br />
and learn everything that they do. Once the<br />
assistant is ready, they are given their own<br />
column on a Saturday where they can offer<br />
blow-dry and styling appointments.<br />
MY month<br />
AHEAD<br />
What JuLY/AUGUST<br />
has in store for...<br />
SAM WILLIAM<br />
HILL<br />
CUT & GRIND<br />
I’m doing one-to-one<br />
classes in fading and<br />
I am also attending a<br />
Menspire course, as well as<br />
cutting hair at bike shows and<br />
car shows as it’s something I<br />
enjoy doing. I’m also trying to<br />
get some friends together for<br />
a shoot showcasing a variety<br />
of styles, from long to really<br />
short. I would love to look<br />
more into techniques with the<br />
guys from Slate as they’re<br />
doing courses at Cut & Grind.<br />
TOM DODD<br />
SPIRIT HAIR COMPANY<br />
It’s been a busy few<br />
months, what with<br />
planning my wedding<br />
and entering various<br />
competitions. I have been in<br />
contact with a really amazing<br />
hairdresser who is keen to<br />
produce a collection with<br />
me in August that’s going to<br />
help to build my hairdressing<br />
platform. I am also attending<br />
various schools to encourage<br />
young people to get into this<br />
incredible industry.<br />
ON THE MOVE<br />
Gary Halliday is the new creative<br />
director at Andrew Jose Salon. A<br />
regular at Dazed and Vogue and<br />
who recently worked on a Renee<br />
Zellweger biopic of Judy Garland,<br />
Judy, said: “As a session stylist<br />
it’s like I’ve been a solo artist for<br />
the past two decades and now<br />
I’ve joined a band!”<br />
Meanwhile, Andrew Barton has<br />
been named creative director at<br />
Headmasters. Andrew will lead,<br />
coach and inspire the existing<br />
Headmasters Artistic Team, as<br />
well as create signature looks<br />
and services for the group.<br />
22
MAKE YOUR HAIR GROWTH<br />
THE LEAST OF YOUR WORRIES<br />
You have<br />
over 100,000 hairs<br />
growing at any time...<br />
...a healthy head of hair<br />
should therefore be<br />
a handful<br />
60% of women in the UK experience hair<br />
growth disruptions leading to thin and<br />
wispy hair.<br />
Salon Formula Hair Growth+ by Nourkrin ®<br />
is a scientifically researched hair growth food<br />
supplement developed to help support the<br />
normal healthy hair growth.<br />
AVAILABLE AT:
Styling continues<br />
to be made easy<br />
by ghd with the<br />
launch of its new<br />
Oval Dressing Brush.<br />
Years in the making,<br />
this has nylon bristles<br />
for a sleek finish with<br />
minimal static.<br />
RRP £20<br />
01924 423400<br />
ghdhair.com<br />
As blonde shades continuing<br />
to dominate in summer, the<br />
new Redken Blondage range<br />
is right on time. The shampoo<br />
and conditioner feature<br />
new ultra-violet pigments to<br />
combat brassiness.<br />
RRP FROM £15.50<br />
020 8762 4000<br />
redken.co.uk<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel has introduced the Série Expert<br />
Blondifier haircare range for extra hair TLC. Formulated<br />
with Açaí Polyphenol from the superfood açaí berry the<br />
range helps to revive blonde hair.<br />
IN-SALON SERVICE; RRP FROM £12.50<br />
0800 0304034<br />
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk<br />
Irresistible products consumers will want<br />
to snap up, selected by the Layered team<br />
Colour-treated hair can suffer in the sun, but luckily<br />
you can help your clients bring it back to its former<br />
glory with the JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock.<br />
This one simple treatment provides a host of wonderful<br />
benefits for even the most<br />
lacklustre hair. Formulated with<br />
peptides, this advanced formula<br />
leaves hair feeling stronger and<br />
nine-times more resistant to<br />
breakage – even when wet.<br />
It also provides incredible shine,<br />
smoothness and a hit of volume<br />
too. Use it at the backwash as<br />
the ultimate add-on, then let<br />
clients take it home and<br />
keep up the good work.<br />
RRP £17.45<br />
0845 0712326<br />
joicoeurope.com<br />
Let the sunlight in with<br />
new Colorsmetique Intense<br />
Blonde from Revlon<br />
Professional’s Revlonissimo.<br />
The formula lifts up to five<br />
levels for brighter blondes.<br />
IN-SALON SERVICE<br />
020 73917440<br />
revlonprofessional.com<br />
Add a flush of<br />
blush tones<br />
to modernise<br />
blonde shades.<br />
Schwarzkopf<br />
Professional’s<br />
BLONDME<br />
Blush Wash<br />
comes in<br />
four romantic<br />
shades for<br />
minimal<br />
commitment in-salon<br />
toning, or to maintain<br />
delicate shades<br />
between salon visits.<br />
RRP £17.25<br />
0800 526741<br />
schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk<br />
Get ready for a colour<br />
revolution from Affinage.<br />
The Creative Colour<br />
Thickener allows you to<br />
customise the viscosity of<br />
your colouring and lightening<br />
products, without<br />
impacting on formula.<br />
DON’T<br />
THROW<br />
AWAY<br />
OLD HAIR<br />
EXTENSIONS –<br />
Remi Cachet has<br />
teamed up with Matter<br />
of Trust to recycle them,<br />
whatever<br />
the brand!<br />
For details, visit<br />
remicachet.com<br />
IN-SALON SERVICE<br />
01794 527111<br />
affinage.com<br />
Fight urban pollution with Alfaparf<br />
Milano’s newly-enhanced Semí Dí<br />
Lino line-up, featuring its new Urban<br />
Defence Pro complex, which shields<br />
hair from environmental pollutants<br />
for prolonged results.<br />
RRP FROM £10.95<br />
LISA.MARANGON@<br />
ALFAPARFGROUP.IT<br />
alfaparfmilano.com<br />
Offering beautiful, bespoke<br />
care to partner with TIGI<br />
Copyright©olour, the new<br />
customisable Copyright Care<br />
line-up is perfect for that<br />
personal touch.<br />
RRP FROM £16<br />
0344 8440944<br />
tigicopyright.com<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
#CHedit<br />
STOCK<br />
OPTIONS<br />
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO<br />
STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS<br />
AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS<br />
LAUNCH OF<br />
THE SUMMER<br />
Building on the success of its groundbreaking<br />
entry into hair tools, Dyson<br />
has listened to feedback from real<br />
stylists across the globe and<br />
re-engineered its iconic Supersonic<br />
hair dryer to unveil a better-thanever<br />
Professional edition. Features<br />
include a removable, washable filter<br />
cage (with its very own brush!) to<br />
keep your finely-tuned machine<br />
hair and residue free; a professional<br />
concentrator nozzle that’s wider<br />
and thinner for precision styling<br />
(magnetic, of course – and with a<br />
hold that’s twice as strong – and now<br />
with cool grip edges) and a longer<br />
cable to freely move around your<br />
client as you need. That’s all on top<br />
of that revolutionary Dyson digital<br />
motor V9 in the handle, giving you a<br />
better balance, and Intelligent Heat<br />
Control that helps keep hair strong<br />
and healthy. Tested in salons and<br />
backstage at Fashion Week, the Dyson<br />
Supersonic hair dryer Professional<br />
edition means business – treat your<br />
kit bag and invest, because the future<br />
of drying is here.<br />
FOR ENQUIRIES AND PRICES<br />
CALL 0800 345 7788<br />
dyson.co.uk/professionalhaircare<br />
Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week S/S18. Models styled<br />
using the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition<br />
IT’S ALL ABOUT... SUMMER<br />
Beach towels at the ready!<br />
The new milk_shake Sun &<br />
More collection contains UV<br />
filters, Vitamin E and natural<br />
fruit oils to protect hair<br />
from being ravaged by the<br />
sun and sea.<br />
RRP FROM £14.19<br />
01392 365177<br />
milkshakehaircare.co.uk<br />
Bumble and bumble’s much-loved<br />
Surf Spray has enjoyed a summery<br />
upgrade. It’s available in two new<br />
scents – Malibu Beach’s coconut<br />
vibes or Montauk Dunes for fresh<br />
florals. Now clients just need a<br />
beach to go with it...<br />
RRP £23<br />
0800 0884167<br />
bumbleandbumble.co.uk<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
25
BOOST YOUR<br />
BUSINESS WITH<br />
£15,000<br />
IS THE AMOUNT GALLAGHER & HORNER IN GLASGOW MADE IN ONE YEAR FROM SMARTBOND, THE REVOLUTIONARY<br />
BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. THE SALON BELIEVES THE TECHNOLOGY AND INNOVATION SMARTBOND<br />
OFFERS IS SECOND TO NONE AND, BY INTEGRATING THE SERVICE INTO EVERY COLOUR PRICE, IT HAS INCREASED SALON<br />
PROFITS. THE TEAM BELIEVES THAT SMARTBOND HAS REVOLUTIONISED THE SALON’S COLOURING METHODS AND THE<br />
OFFERING CONTINUES TO COMPLEMENT THE SALON’S CORE VALUES AND PRINCIPLES. CLIENTS ARE OVERWHELMINGLY<br />
POSITIVE, TOO. SALON OWNER BRIAN GALLAGHER SHARES SOME OF HIS TOP TIPS ON SELLING SMARTBOND IN-SALON…<br />
1 Motivate your staff members and develop their understanding of the Smartbond technology and how it works by attending one of L’Oréal<br />
Professionnel’s seminars and having in-salon demonstrations. Then, why not organise workshops in-house to get your team fully onboard?<br />
2 Use the standalone treatment in the salon continually. Why not use it as a preparatory treatment for new clients who have endured stress on their<br />
hair? The results we have seen are truly remarkable and it has quadrupled the number of standalone treatments in our salon, as well as our profi t.<br />
3 Integrate the price of Smartbond into every colour service. We were honest with clients and we made them aware of this during their consultation.<br />
We believe that once a client experiences the benefi ts of Smartbond, they are happy to pay an additional £10 for their colour service.<br />
THE FIX<br />
Need inspiration? Why not have a go at creating<br />
this summer look by @alfi ehair at @headmastersuk<br />
using new Instant Highlights:<br />
Step 1: Apply 15 meches using Instant Highlights in<br />
the #instalights technique.<br />
Step 2: Tone with DIA Richesse 7.31 at the roots<br />
blending into a mix of DIA Richesse .24<br />
and clear throughout the lenths and ends.<br />
Step 3: Use Smartbond throughout.<br />
Don’t forget to share your Instant<br />
Highlights creations using<br />
@lorealpro #lorealprouk<br />
#instanthighlights #smartbond<br />
RETAIL REHAB<br />
Coming soon, L’Oréal<br />
Professionnel Série<br />
Expert Blondifier is a<br />
bespoke colour care<br />
solution to revive<br />
blonde hair. Enriched<br />
with Açaí Polyphenol,<br />
an antioxidant found<br />
in the açaí berry, Série<br />
Expert Blondifier is<br />
perfect for any blonde<br />
who wants fresh<br />
colour, shine<br />
and radiance.<br />
26<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
Be a<br />
COLOUR<br />
ADDICT<br />
SUMMER SOLUTIONS FOR<br />
ALL OF YOUR CLIENTS<br />
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
With summer now in full swing, your clients will be<br />
looking to you to work your magic and give them the<br />
perfect summer-fresh hair – and that’s where L’Oréal<br />
Professionnel comes in. From the time-seeker to the<br />
loyal colour clients and the daring festival fanatics,<br />
there is a summer look for everyone. Offer your<br />
time-seeking clients new Instant Highlights,<br />
providing up to six levels of lift in as little as 30<br />
seconds. Give your faithful coloured clients a<br />
summer boost they wish for with the INOA Suprême<br />
ammonia-free range. It creates multi-dimensional<br />
results to soften their features, enhance their skin<br />
tone and cover up to 100 per cent of white hair.<br />
Not forgetting those clients of yours who are more<br />
creative and daring. This summer, show off your<br />
creativity with #COLORFULHAIR Flash Pro Hair<br />
Make-Up giving you the perfect opportunity to<br />
create endless colour combinations instantaneously,<br />
whatever the occasion…<br />
*May last longer depending on the porosity of the hair<br />
FLASH<br />
#COLORFULHAIR Flash is available in eight fun-filled<br />
shades and is compatible with all hair bases. Just<br />
like applying eyeshadow, the product coats the hair<br />
in pigmented colour and then washes out in just one<br />
shampoo.* Pre-lightening is not required either, it’s the<br />
ideal opportunity to express your creativity in salon<br />
and create a #COLORFULHAIR Flash look for every<br />
occasion! And don’t forget Tecni.ART – the perfect styling<br />
partner to keep the fabulous looks you create in check.<br />
DO THIS NOW<br />
1) Create a summer service menu catering to all of<br />
your clients’ essential summer needs, such as Speedy<br />
Highlights, The Summer Boost, The Flash Touch…<br />
2) Why not partner with local events such as fetes,<br />
festivals or barbecues and have a #COLORFULHAIR<br />
Flash bar? It’s a perfect way to promote your salon…<br />
3) Get creative and share your finished looks across<br />
social media and with L’Oréal Professionnel, too,<br />
by including @lorealpro #lorealprouk<br />
Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – call 0800 030 4034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
27
#LCT18<br />
L’ORÉ A L<br />
COLOUR<br />
TROPHY<br />
28
#LCT18<br />
“I’ve been travelling<br />
the world with<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel<br />
for 16 years, and<br />
every country looks<br />
up to you – British<br />
stylists and colourists!”<br />
BEATRICE DAUTZENBERG,<br />
MANAGING DIRECTOR OF<br />
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL<br />
PRODUCTS DIVISION,<br />
UK & IRELAND<br />
British colourists showed how they’re shaping the future of the industry with a masterful display of skill and<br />
creativity at the 2018 L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. This year’s competition drew to a spectacular close<br />
as salons from all over the UK showed off their techniques and creative vision for fashion-led looks. And what<br />
a display it was! From cherry-red hair stains to outfit-coordinating shades of deep purple, punchy peach and<br />
canary yellow, bright, bold, look-at-me colour absolutely rules 2018 – proof, as if it were needed, that colour is<br />
the most exciting element in hairdressing right now.<br />
29
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY WINNER<br />
TREVOR SORBIE,<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
L’ORÉ A L<br />
COLOUR<br />
TROPHY<br />
THE<br />
2018<br />
winners<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel has never<br />
wavered from delivering the Colour<br />
Trophy every year for 63 years (it’s the<br />
longest-running live hair competition in<br />
the world). It has been a driving force<br />
for gaining respect and recognition for<br />
British colourists and colour trends – a<br />
hallowed proving ground for the most<br />
seasoned colourists in the country,<br />
and also a great place for spotting<br />
red-hot new talent. This year’s winners<br />
prove that British colourists are the<br />
most creative, skilful and downright<br />
exciting in the world. The looks they<br />
created for men and women were<br />
superb and will set high street colour<br />
trends in 2018 and beyond. Bravo!<br />
30
#LCT18<br />
L’ORÉAL STAR AWARD WINNER<br />
TAYLOR CLAYTON SPICER,<br />
PAUL EDMONDS<br />
L’ORÉAL AFRO<br />
AWARD WINNER<br />
RICK ROBERTS SALON<br />
L’ORÉAL MEN’S IMAGE<br />
AWARD WINNER<br />
THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER<br />
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY<br />
SECOND PLACE<br />
CHARLIE MILLER,<br />
STAFFORD STREET<br />
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY<br />
THIRD PLACE<br />
JAMIE STEVENS,<br />
CLAPHAM<br />
31
L’ORÉ A L<br />
COLOUR<br />
TROPHY<br />
image<br />
21ST CENTURY<br />
Three exceptional hair teams in one spectacular show: L’Oréal Professionnel explored<br />
how we capture beauty within an ever-changing, media-driven world<br />
THE MOVING IMAGE<br />
DARK | LIGHT BY PERCY & REED<br />
Inspired by hair in its moving<br />
form, the team played with scale<br />
as well as a variety of unusual<br />
materials. There were bursts of<br />
primary colours on ankle-length<br />
feathered headdresses, braids and<br />
dreadlocks wrapped in thread and<br />
bubble-wrap, and a McQueenesque<br />
antler creation that was<br />
dripping in crystals. The showstopping<br />
look was a giant globe of<br />
a wig, featuring candy-floss texture<br />
and wisps of neon snaking through<br />
pastel pink.<br />
32
#LCT18<br />
THE INSTANT IMAGE BY KEN PICTON<br />
Inspired by the on-the-fly editing and<br />
trend-hungry tendencies of the selfie<br />
generation, the audience witnessed a<br />
millennial mermaid with emerald green<br />
lengths pose for aerial pictures in the<br />
centre of the runway, before being<br />
joined by a dreamy pastel afro that<br />
was proudly #nofilter. Social media<br />
techniques were exaggerated for<br />
the stage, with festival-ready braids<br />
supersized and tonal tuning recreated<br />
IRL with super-saturated colours.<br />
THE EDITORIAL IMAGE BY BROOKS & BROOKS<br />
Taking the audience behind the lens, Brooks &<br />
Brooks emulated a live set, with sculptural, minimal<br />
looks emerging to the sound of shutters and camera<br />
flashes. Their palette was strictly pastel, composed<br />
of gentle mint greens, airy pinks and powder purples,<br />
with hair wrapped in elastic and contained within<br />
frayed muslin sheets blasted with hairspray. Each<br />
porcelain pose the models struck was accompanied<br />
by studio shots of the hair, taken prior to the<br />
presentation and blown up two storeys high on<br />
the dazzling video screens behind them.<br />
33
#CHedit<br />
Darcie and Olli<br />
IT LIST RISING STAR AND GENERATION<br />
Z TEAM MEMBER, DARCIE HARVEY,<br />
QUIZZES COLLEAGUE OLLI HULL<br />
ON WHY HE EMBRACED A CAREER<br />
IN HAIRDRESSING!<br />
Olli Hull<br />
Age: 24<br />
Salon: Brooks & Brooks<br />
DARCIE HARVEY: What got you started on the road to hair?<br />
OLLI HULL: I studied art at university but after graduating I was<br />
disheartened by the lack of career options. I wanted a job I could<br />
apply my creativity to. My mum is a hairdresser, and suggested I<br />
learn a trade. She said: “If you’re going to do it, do it properly.” So<br />
I moved to London, joined Brooks & Brooks and never looked back.<br />
DH: What have you loved about it so far?<br />
OH: It was scary just packing up my life and moving to<br />
London, I had no idea if I was making the right decision.<br />
But when I was up on that stage at Creative HEAD’s<br />
Salon Smart, presenting my own model and talking<br />
about what I’d created, it felt amazing – it’s something<br />
I never thought I’d have the confidence to do. I found a<br />
new medium for art – the hair replaced the canvas!<br />
DH: That’s pretty impressive! What’s your secret to<br />
accomplishing so much in such a short time?<br />
OH: Staying humble and being able to take criticism on the chin. I’ve<br />
never come away from something think ‘that was perfect’ because<br />
there is always room for improvement. It’s important to listen to your<br />
peers and not take things too personally.<br />
DH: So what about the future? What are you doing in 10 years?<br />
OH: So much has happened in such a short period of time, I only<br />
started hairdressing 18 months ago! It’s hard to know what the<br />
future holds, but it’s exciting, and I’m enjoying the journey.<br />
Something I’d really be proud to achieve would be to create<br />
a collection that completely infused my art with hair.<br />
DH: Have you got a dream job you’d love to do?<br />
OH: Ooh, to hold an exhibition with the hair as the<br />
artwork. Each piece would be created with hair.<br />
My collection would be on the walls, while the<br />
models walk among the guests, displaying the<br />
hair for what it is – walking works of art.<br />
34
NEW TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE<br />
PROFESSIONAL.<br />
PERSONAL.<br />
PERFECT.<br />
CREATE BESPOKE HAIRCARE FOR YOUR CLIENTS FOR PERSONAL HAIR PERFECTION
EVERY CLIENT IS<br />
UNIQUE.<br />
SO IS THEIR<br />
HAIR<br />
AS CLIENTS BECOME MORE DEMANDING, IT’S MORE IMPORTANT<br />
THAN EVER TO PROVIDE A TRULY CUSTOMISED SALON EXPERIENCE<br />
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
TIGI Copyright Care is a new, 100 per cent professional, premium brand that delivers<br />
personalised, perfect results every time, with truly customised in-salon care services<br />
and revolutionary products that celebrate your artistry and copyright your client’s look.<br />
Designed to complement TIGI copyright©olour, new TIGI Copyright Care enables<br />
you to go beyond beautiful bespoke colour with hair diagnosis and a new customised<br />
care and create regime for professional, personal, perfect results every time.<br />
Developed by TIGI in close collaboration with International artistic director Anthony<br />
Mascolo and the TIGI Creative Team, TIGI Copyright Care is the result of extensive<br />
global research into emerging cultural trends and consumer preferences. The<br />
founding principle of TIGI is to inspire hairdressers, empowering them to progress<br />
their work, build their teams, develop client loyalty and ultimately grow their business.<br />
That’s why TIGI Copyright Care is supported by first-class education, social media,<br />
digital and visual assets and absolute commitment to the professional hairdresser.<br />
“Just like TIGI copyright©olour range, we want<br />
you to excite and inspire your clients with<br />
personalised, perfect results every time. Each<br />
client’s hair is different. With TIGI Copyright<br />
Care you can go beyond the creation of<br />
beautiful, bespoke colours to also offer truly<br />
customised, in-salon care services to celebrate<br />
your artistry and ‘copyright’ every client’s look”<br />
ANTHONY MASCOLO
INTRODUCING<br />
THE NEW<br />
PARTNER<br />
TO COPYRIGHT<br />
©OLOUR<br />
GOING BEYOND BEAUTIFUL BESPOKE COLOUR WITH<br />
A NEW CUSTOMISED CARE AND CREATE RANGE FOR<br />
PROFESSIONAL, PERSONAL, PERFECT RESULTS EVERY TIME<br />
TIGI Copyright Care extends the colour consultation process to include hair diagnosis,<br />
enabling hairdressers to prescribe a personalised colour service and a customised care<br />
regime. And, because haircare starts in the salon, but continues in the client’s home,<br />
TIGI has created a personalised routine that clients can follow between salon visits – it's<br />
a personal touch that will make clients come back for more, ensuring their hair looks<br />
and feels sensational and in excellent condition all the time.<br />
MEET SOME OF THE STAND-OUT PRODUCTS:<br />
SOS RECOVERY TREATMENT<br />
Infused with marine protein complex, this professional only in-salon treatment<br />
penetrates hair fibre at the core for dramatic results, restoring your clients’ hair to<br />
virgin strength in just five minutes.*<br />
IN-SALON TREATMENTS<br />
Following your client hair diagnosis, boost your in-salon client treatment with an<br />
intense level of repair, smooth, or shine – you can offer 28 custom combinations<br />
from just four products! One scoop of the nourishing Treatment Base + six pumps of<br />
any combination of Shine, Smooth or Repair booster is a simple way to customise<br />
treatments for hair that is less damaged.<br />
TAKE-HOME TREATMENTS<br />
Copyright Treatment Boosters offer an added intense level of repair, smooth or shine<br />
to your clients' hair. Use in the salon as a backbar treatment and retail to your clients<br />
for at-home usage, helping them to maintain their colour and condition between salon<br />
visits and for you to increase retail sales.<br />
SHAMPOOS & CONDITIONERS<br />
All shampoos and conditioners are infused with TIGI’s Colour Care Complex – a unique<br />
blend of coconut oil, 18 MEA lipids and keratin.<br />
*When used as a system, reduction in breakage versus non-conditioning shampoo
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
SHOWCASE YOUR<br />
EXPERTISE<br />
TIGI Copyright Care has been created<br />
to inspire you and your clients,<br />
making you the expert you want to<br />
be. Bespoke in-salon services have<br />
been created to drive your business<br />
and support your retail sales with<br />
individually created aftercare packages<br />
to encourage your clients to invest<br />
in their hair.<br />
In addition, TIGI wants to help you<br />
to create a dialogue with your clients<br />
with a suite of Copyright Care digital<br />
assets that will make life easier for you<br />
and the team, so you can continue to<br />
service your clients while meeting your<br />
marketing objectives.<br />
You should also check out the TIGI<br />
Copyright Digital Consultation Tool,<br />
developed exclusively for stylists. It’s a<br />
web-based consultation tool that will<br />
provide you and the salon team with<br />
the most personal consultation service,<br />
allowing you to recommend the perfect<br />
colour and care for your clients.<br />
For further information about any<br />
of the digital assets, including the<br />
TIGI Copyright Digital Consultation<br />
Tool, call 0344 8440944 or email<br />
eu.customerservice@tigi.com
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE<br />
PROFESSIONAL. PERSONAL. PERFECT.<br />
FIND OUT MORE<br />
tigicopyright.com<br />
TIGICOPYRIGHT TIGIPROFESSIONAL /TIGIPROFESSIONAL<br />
Call 0344 8440944 to arrange a meeting with a TIGI account manager
#CHedit<br />
Inside<br />
story<br />
ANNE VECK BICESTER<br />
It was while on a trip to Namibia that Anne Veck discovered Ilana’s Hair<br />
Gallery, all built from recycled, reconstituted materials, furniture and iron<br />
work. A year later, and Anne is unveiling her new Bicester salon, inspired<br />
by Ilana’s and with a commitment to being green. The result is an industrial,<br />
stripped-back warehouse feel, while still airy, well-lit and welcoming. And<br />
it’s been a family aff air, with everything built by Anne, her two brothers Eric<br />
and Sylvain, partner Keith and nephew Phil. Got a wreck? Turn to Veck –<br />
Anne and her brothers made the reception desk, styling stations, the colour<br />
table, retail display, colour bar, cupboards… you name it! Coff ee table,<br />
magazine racks and selfi e wall – all from recycled pallets and cable drums.<br />
Elsewhere, the new interior walls, plumbing and electricals are by 100%<br />
Salons, while Revlon Professional contributed to the branding. The focal<br />
feature is the round colour table in the centre of the salon, made from a<br />
huge old cable drum. It’s a space for clients to sit and read, work and chat.<br />
“Clients love it and it’s become the communal hub of the salon,” says Anne.<br />
HOT BUYS<br />
LOUNGE LOVER<br />
Do you have a habit of changing<br />
your mind, keen to keep things<br />
mixed up? Then the Lounge<br />
waiting seats from Salon Ambience<br />
are perfect. Available in single,<br />
double and triple place seats,<br />
they can be combined to create<br />
a number of different scenarios.<br />
PROMOTIONAL PRICE<br />
FROM £259 (RRP £499)<br />
UNTIL 31 AUGUST<br />
07554 990965<br />
salonambience.com<br />
now open<br />
PAUL EDMONDS LONDON<br />
BATTERSEA POWER STATION<br />
Part of an exciting new development, the salon<br />
has eschewed a reception desk in favour of a<br />
drinks bar, alongside a blow-dry bar for express<br />
hair and nails services.<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
35
THE SECRET OF…<br />
ADJUSTING YOUR USP IN AN<br />
EVOLVING LANDSCAPE<br />
SOCIAL MEDIA<br />
DISTRACTION OR BUSINESS DRIVER?<br />
CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR IS CHANGING.<br />
BUSINESSES NEED TO ENSURE WHAT THEY<br />
ARE OFFERING IS INTERESTING AND UNIQUE<br />
TO STAY AHEAD OF THE COMPETITION. THE<br />
EXPERTS AT MINDBODY SHARE THREE WAYS<br />
TO DEVELOP YOUR OFFERING…<br />
YOUR TICKET TO THE FUTURE<br />
Technology is integrated into the<br />
way people live. Recent research<br />
by MINDBODY found that more<br />
than three-quarters of those aged<br />
between 18 to 24 use technology as<br />
part of their daily wellness routines.<br />
Getting to grips with technology<br />
and incorporating the latest<br />
advances into your business is a<br />
great way of keeping things fresh.<br />
BYE-BYE 9 TO 5<br />
Flexible working is on the rise and<br />
tweaking your offering to refl ect<br />
this change in clients’ schedules<br />
could have a huge impact on your<br />
business. MINDBODY revealed<br />
almost half of respondents said<br />
they have no preferred time to get<br />
treatments, suggesting peak times<br />
are becoming a thing of the past.<br />
THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX<br />
There are thousands of salons<br />
across the UK, so make yours<br />
different to drive footfall. Get creative<br />
and think about services or offerings<br />
that can really add value, in addition<br />
to your standard cut and colour.<br />
IN ASSOCIATION WITH<br />
For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY,<br />
visit uk.mindbodyonline.com<br />
WHEN IT COMES to followers on social<br />
media, is less really more? Young stylists are<br />
facing unprecedented pressure to cultivate<br />
an impressive online portfolio, from the very<br />
beginning of their training. With less time to<br />
spare, and their attention pulled in multiple<br />
directions, where should their focus be?<br />
“Social media plays havoc with young<br />
hairdressers,” asserts Tom Dodd, hair<br />
stylist at Spirit Hair Design and one of the<br />
Generation Z team that’s taken over this<br />
issue of Creative HEAD. “Everyone sees<br />
these amazing hairstyles and think they can<br />
get a look so easily. When something isn’t<br />
possible it gives you a bad name or implies<br />
that you’re not a good hairdresser.”<br />
“I find younger hairdressers feel the<br />
pressure because they’re not only trying to<br />
learn how to run a column, they’re learning<br />
how to adapt themselves to different<br />
situations with different types of people,”<br />
says Dale Hollinshead, owner of Hazel<br />
& Haydn. “They also feel the pressure to<br />
showcase their work on Instagram to gain<br />
new clients. Of course they feel it takes time<br />
away from their actual job, but it’s now, in a<br />
way, part of their job.”<br />
It’s not just unrealistic expectations that<br />
young stylists have to tackle nowadays, but<br />
time. When building a column, how much of<br />
this precious commodity should be spent on<br />
social media? Andy Heasman, international<br />
creative director for Rush, detailed the<br />
brand’s approach to posting: “Our team<br />
members are allowed to take before and<br />
after images or progress pictures of their<br />
clients’ hair, but cannot post until they are<br />
on their break or finished for the day. We are<br />
all-for showcasing the incredible work of<br />
our younger team, however, being active on<br />
social media during working hours on the<br />
salon floor is prohibited. The clients are our<br />
number one priority.”<br />
Mathew Watt, owner and director of<br />
Mathew Watt Hair, takes a similar view.<br />
“The experience is always the number one<br />
priority,” he says. “When we have clients<br />
booked in that are looking for a big change,<br />
or someone whose look we know is going<br />
to create a good image, I book out an extra<br />
10 minutes at the end of the appointment so<br />
the team can get that image.”<br />
The pressure on established salons is high<br />
as it is, but the impetus on emerging artists<br />
to race ahead in a crowded market, vying for<br />
attention and followers, concerns some salon<br />
directors. “It is a great tool for attracting<br />
staff and showcasing our work, but I feel<br />
that many users are prioritising followers<br />
and likes as a tool for recognition and we will<br />
never insist our team use it this way,” notes<br />
Sally Brooks, co-owner of Brooks & Brooks.<br />
Social media is becoming something<br />
of a necessary evil – to not have a strong<br />
presence online is a real problem to any<br />
business. But in salons, where time is<br />
very much money and hands are always<br />
occupied, snapping away can be more of<br />
a hindrance than a help. Is it possible to<br />
strike a balance?<br />
Darcie Harvey, Brooks & Brooks<br />
Instagram is a gift and a curse for hairdressers. Yes, it is<br />
an easy way to build your platform and connect with other<br />
creatives, however it is no longer a fun app that you use for your<br />
own pleasure. We are now expected to constantly keep everyone updated – which<br />
can be hard when you are running a fully-booked day of clients. For example, I<br />
had a beautiful client with a classic one length bob come in late (halfway through<br />
her appointment) but she still wanted to leave on time. So, tight for time, I put my<br />
head down and did a haircut I was proud of. It would have been the perfect content<br />
for social media and I felt the “Insta-pressure”. What do I put fi rst? My client or<br />
Instagram? The answer is obvious; if the client enjoys her experience, she will come<br />
back and that will be the appropriate opportunity to take a picture.
VIVISCAL <br />
GROWTH<br />
SUPPLEMENTS<br />
PROUD SPONSORS OF
#BusinessEdit<br />
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WHAT MAKES ALFAPARF<br />
MILANO UNIQUE?<br />
It’s a brand that’s true to its<br />
word. Born in the fashion<br />
capital of Milan, it offers<br />
amazing creativity, blended<br />
with technical innovation.<br />
With beautiful packaging<br />
that is very Italian,<br />
everything is supported<br />
by a purpose-built cut and<br />
colour programme. Also,<br />
we offer one of the largest<br />
professional colour ranges<br />
in the world – every second<br />
a woman leaves a hair salon<br />
wearing our colour.<br />
ANYTHING NEW ON THE WAY?<br />
Yes, we’ve just launched<br />
Detoxifying Mud with<br />
activated carbon, designed<br />
to remove toxic substances<br />
caused by pollution. It<br />
transforms hair after just<br />
one application and is<br />
excellent for people living<br />
in major cities. Every year,<br />
we have no fewer than six<br />
major launches supported by<br />
strong marketing materials<br />
and point of sale items to<br />
help explain the technology<br />
and drive sales.<br />
WHAT’S THE INNOVATION<br />
YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF?<br />
Our three patents-pending<br />
and award-winning<br />
Pigments line. Think of<br />
a pure colour pigment<br />
line of ultra-concentrated<br />
colours that can be used to<br />
create colour by adding it<br />
to any alkaline and acidic<br />
hair product! Pigments<br />
enhances any colour, turn<br />
styling mousse into a copper<br />
mousse for example, or<br />
simply add it to a conditioner.<br />
THe generation z team quiz a hair hero!<br />
Angelo Seminara<br />
Tom Dodd Where do you turn for inspiration when you're struggling for ideas?<br />
I have to be honest, the answer to this question is simple but I don’t want this to sound arrogant at<br />
all. I have a high level of curiosity and so I don’t run out of ideas – it’s just the way my brain works.<br />
Having too many ideas can in itself be a problem. It’s a bit like having an external hard drive that collects<br />
information all day long. The hard part is letting go of the wrong ideas. I can’t sleep at night for them all.<br />
It’s very important to test out ideas and develop them for their own sake, though, and this way they can<br />
become a base for something better.<br />
Darcie Harvey Can you give an example of a moment in your career that changed the<br />
way you approached things?<br />
I like this question! Yes, it was probably during a really diffi cult time when I was sure that I was<br />
completely right but was actually very wrong. This has happened at many moments during my career,<br />
from managing a team to packing my session bags, and each time it’s a lesson that helps you become<br />
better, and each time it changes my view on how I approach things. Really there are lots of these<br />
moments. You have to be very open-minded and go with the fl ow. When you see a change, instead<br />
of worrying about it, just try it – that is what changes your view. This can be exciting and it certainly<br />
benefi ts you in the future.<br />
Sam william Hill Who has been the biggest influence on your career?<br />
In hairdressing, Trevor Sorbie MBE has been my mentor, and I look up to the incredible Leonard of<br />
Mayfair – but Generation Z might not know who he is!<br />
Tegan Robertson What has been your biggest mistake and how did you recover from it?<br />
This is diffi cult. Oh, I worked on a book once and it nearly killed me! I worked for three months – literally<br />
day and night. I was creating content, shooting many leading models like Lara Stone and working<br />
at that high level of concentration and output meant that I just didn’t switch off, 24/7 for 12 weeks.<br />
That sort of thing really messes you up psychologically as it was so exhausting. I wasn’t alone as the<br />
photographer literally collapsed on the couch at the end of the shoot! It was a constant challenge every<br />
minute to make the book – it was a great experience but I’m not sure I’ll ever quite recover from it!<br />
Harry Wiffen If you could change one thing in the hair industry, what would it be?<br />
I would probably start thinking much more in ecological terms, such as being more sustainable. I would<br />
like us to think twice about what we use, how we use it, even how we get to work and basically to reuse<br />
more things. On the products side, I want to see more coming out that are truly organic and that don’t<br />
affect our health. Also, I would like hairdressers to share enivronmentally-friendly ideas to help spread<br />
them across the industry. The UK is the best country for sharing ideas and it would be good to see this<br />
happen, for the environment and for the industry.<br />
38 CREATIVE HEAD
#BusinessEdit<br />
Protect your<br />
salon from<br />
cyberattacks<br />
IS YOUR SALON safe from cyberattacks?<br />
Recent government figures show that 43<br />
per cent of UK businesses were victims of a<br />
cyberattack in the past 12 months, rising to<br />
72 per cent for larger companies.<br />
“Cybercriminals can damage, destroy or<br />
breach your salon computer system, often to<br />
commit financial fraud,” explains Hilary Hall,<br />
chief executive of the NHF.<br />
“Take a backup of your data on a regular<br />
basis,” says Hilary. “Make sure your virus<br />
software is up-to-date and your firewall is<br />
switched on.”<br />
Look out for fake emails (a type of attack called<br />
phishing) that ask for bank details and so on.<br />
Warning signs include poor spelling, dodgy logos<br />
and suspicious email addresses.<br />
“Password protect all your data and make<br />
sure remote devices can be locked or tracked if<br />
stolen. And ensure all your salon staff know how<br />
to guard against cyberattacks,” says Hilary.<br />
SALONS STRUGGLING TO<br />
ATTRACT THE BEST STAFF<br />
Recent government figures show that<br />
record numbers of people aged 16-64 are<br />
now in work – the highest number since<br />
records began in 1971. “This means there<br />
are 116,000 fewer people looking for work<br />
than a year ago,” says NHF chief executive<br />
Hilary Hall. “And salons are telling us that<br />
it is becoming more of a struggle to recruit<br />
qualified staff and apprentices.”<br />
To find out more about an initiative to fight<br />
the recruitment crisis in the hair industry,<br />
visit choosehair.co.uk<br />
NHF BACKS CALL FOR VAT REFORM<br />
A NEW NHF survey about VAT has attracted a huge response from salon<br />
owners who say reforms are needed to ensure fairness.<br />
“A common complaint is that salons that employ staff are far more likely<br />
to have to pay VAT than those who have chair renters,” says Hilary Hall,<br />
chief executive of the NHF. “This is because salons with employees are<br />
treated as a single business and are far more likely to reach the £85,000<br />
threshold than salons with self-employed chair renters who pay their tax<br />
individually. A further bugbear is that salons who pay VAT also have to<br />
charge their clients VAT.”<br />
The results of the NHF survey will be passed to government, which is<br />
currently looking into thresholds. “There will be no changes until 2020,” explains<br />
Hilary, “but in the meantime, the NHF is making strong recommendations to<br />
the government, with our preferred solution being to significantly raise the VAT<br />
threshold to £500,000, which would benefit most salons.<br />
“We also believe the VAT rate should be reduced for labour-intensive<br />
industries such as hairdressing which have high staff costs and little scope<br />
for claiming back VAT on product sales. This system is already used in some<br />
EU member states.”<br />
THE NHF’S RECOMMENDATIONS ALSO INCLUDE:<br />
• Tiered rates of VAT: for example, 10 per cent for turnover of £85,000 to<br />
£100,000; 13 per cent for £100,000 to £150,000 and so on<br />
• Making better use of the existing flat rate VAT scheme, with VAT paid at<br />
13 per cent on a turnover of less than £150,000<br />
• VAT at 20 per cent for labour-intensive industries once they reach £85,000<br />
turnover – but only on the portion above £85,000, not the full amount<br />
PARENTAL LEAVE – DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT<br />
A RECENT SURVEY carried out for the government found that many parents<br />
don’t really understand shared parental leave (SPL) and don’t know that it’s a<br />
legal right. SPL allows eligible couples to share up to 52 weeks’ leave after the<br />
baby’s birth.<br />
“It’s good salon practice to have clear maternity, paternity and SPL leave<br />
policies in place,” says NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. “But be careful,<br />
you may face a discrimination claim if you pay an employee more than the<br />
statutory minimum maternity pay but stick to the statutory rates for SPL.<br />
To stay on the safe side, treat all your staff the same.”<br />
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
39
n target<br />
Your targeted toolbox to help build your<br />
salon business bigger and better, in association<br />
with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel<br />
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons<br />
employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK<br />
RETAIL REGENERATION<br />
It can be diffi cult to get retail sales to improve<br />
in the salon – stylists often say they’re not<br />
comfortable ‘selling’ products to the client in<br />
the chair. But our reader panel reported higher<br />
monthly retail growth compared with the annual<br />
trend, so how are salons working to boost<br />
fi gures? Anne Pileggi at Hairworks noted that<br />
her salon incentivised staff on retail “at certain<br />
times of the year, when we have new things in<br />
such as summer and Christmas promotions”,<br />
and this has had a positive effect. Fiona Bell<br />
at Clinton James, like all of our panel, sends<br />
staff on training courses and adds: “We offer<br />
commission-based incentives and competitions<br />
as well. Staff like the ‘random’ incentives as it’s<br />
not the big retail sellers who win all the time.”<br />
Reader panel salons report retail<br />
as a percentage of annual turnover as:<br />
7.29%<br />
Has retail grown in past year?<br />
YES 29%<br />
STABLE 22%<br />
NO 49%<br />
Most popular retail products<br />
1. CARE 2. STYLING<br />
3. SPECIALIST (ie thinning)<br />
AVERAGE MONTHLY RETAIL TURNOVER<br />
11.9%<br />
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND (EX. VAT)<br />
£45.83<br />
NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR<br />
9.5% OF BUSINESS<br />
(May 2018)<br />
“We are trying a new<br />
system – everyone gets<br />
£500 commission as long<br />
as they hit targets. If they<br />
go under by £100 we<br />
reduce it by £10 and so<br />
on – the details go up on<br />
a white board and it seems<br />
to motivate more”<br />
PAUL DAVIES, TOP TO TOE<br />
ARE YOU<br />
ON TARGET?<br />
Business in May compared<br />
with April?<br />
GROWING<br />
100%<br />
Business in May compared with<br />
May last year?<br />
May last year?<br />
DECLINING<br />
7%<br />
STABLE<br />
7%<br />
GROWING<br />
86%<br />
*SaloniQ fi gures for May 2017 to May 2018<br />
There has been an<br />
increase in the<br />
average retail bill for<br />
the month of May in<br />
2017 and 2018:<br />
SNAPSHOT<br />
The average retail bill in<br />
May 2018 was<br />
£3.21,<br />
an increase of 23 per<br />
cent on last year.<br />
HOW HEALTHY HAS SALON RETAIL<br />
LOOKED IN THE PAST YEAR*?<br />
The Average Care Factor<br />
– which measures how many<br />
clients purchase products in<br />
salon – for 2018 is<br />
8.6<br />
0.3 lower than last year<br />
Retail percentage<br />
compared with<br />
services is<br />
5.7%<br />
WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM<br />
40<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
BUSINESS BUILDER<br />
Retail sales have the potential to<br />
significantly boost your bottom line, so<br />
make it a priority for your business this<br />
summer. Holiday season is a great time<br />
to sell handy travel-sized add-ons to<br />
clients to generate some extra revenue,<br />
such as Osmo’s brand new 100ml Super<br />
Silver No Yellow Mask (£2.99 ex VAT),<br />
which is exclusive to Salon<br />
Services. It’s the<br />
perfect conditioning<br />
treatment for ash<br />
blondes. It’s also a<br />
great trial size for<br />
anyone new to the<br />
Osmo range.<br />
TEACH<br />
ME!<br />
Sun, chlorinated water and<br />
styling for occasions can all<br />
dry out hair and fade colour<br />
over the summer months,<br />
so make sure you’re<br />
equipped to offer clients<br />
rejuvenating services<br />
and treatments to restore<br />
luscious locks. Sally Salon<br />
Services’ Express Colour<br />
Correct & Restore course<br />
(£100) will give you complete<br />
understanding of the practical<br />
and theoretical aspects of<br />
colour correction, as well as<br />
the skills required to correct<br />
common colour issues.<br />
#BusinessEdit<br />
ASK ME<br />
ANYTHING<br />
THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE<br />
EVERY BRANCH OF SALON<br />
SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE<br />
TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!<br />
All prices listed are exclusive of VAT<br />
THE SERVICE STATION<br />
In association with<br />
Innovative launches, expert advice and business<br />
boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!<br />
ON RIGHT NOW<br />
Throughout the month of <strong>July</strong>, Sally Salon<br />
Services customers – both online and in<br />
store – will receive a free Action Camera<br />
when they spend £100 on one of the following<br />
brands: ASP, BaByliss PRO, Barnum, Gellish,<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel, Maria Nila, OPI, Salon<br />
Systems, Schwarzkopf Professional, TIGI,<br />
Wella Professionals or XP. The<br />
offer excludes mix and match<br />
between brands and is limited<br />
to one camera per customer/<br />
transaction.<br />
WELL-GROOMED<br />
BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT<br />
COMING SOON to a Salon Services near you:<br />
new Oster clippers. Sally Salon Services is excited<br />
to be adding two new Oster clippers to its website<br />
this <strong>July</strong> – the Pro Power Clipper and the mXpro<br />
Clipper. Both products have high-powered motors<br />
to provide efficient and top-tier<br />
trims on both wet<br />
and dry hair.<br />
Meet Sheree Rankin,<br />
store manager at Salon<br />
Services’ Oswald Street<br />
store in Glasgow<br />
Q: With summer now<br />
in full swing, more and<br />
more clients want to<br />
know how to get perfect<br />
beach waves, but what<br />
is the best way to show<br />
them how to do this?<br />
A: “Relaxed, flattering and<br />
easy to maintain beach<br />
waves are a summer staple.<br />
I keep a mannequin head<br />
in the store, with a range<br />
of curling tools and wands<br />
on hand so that I can<br />
demonstrate the best way<br />
to use each tool to create<br />
different looks. Wands are<br />
client-friendly and tend to<br />
be the best for achieving<br />
flowing waves, using a<br />
downward motion, but you<br />
can also use straighteners<br />
to achieve the same effect,<br />
by holding them vertically<br />
and twisting.<br />
“Also, don’t forget to<br />
stock up on heat protector<br />
sprays to counter the<br />
drying effects of the sun<br />
for in-salon retail.”<br />
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
41
#BusinessEdit<br />
GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS<br />
EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION<br />
How can we be clear about our<br />
goals with our bosses and gain<br />
mutual respect and support, without<br />
them getting worried and thinking<br />
we're going to fly the nest?<br />
The Generation Z team<br />
KEN'S DIAGNOSIS<br />
AS PART OF THE culture of 3•6•5 we have a<br />
code of behaviour called Guidelines to Greatness.<br />
One of these is “Find out what people want and help them<br />
to achieve it.” We also believe in balance and that “what<br />
works for both will last, and what works for one will end as<br />
soon as there is a viable alternative.”<br />
I understand that as a young person with long-term<br />
goals, these may not involve your current salon or current<br />
employer, but sharing these goals should not necessarily<br />
affect your current position. Okay, if someone came and<br />
told me that they planned to move to<br />
Australia in three months’ time, I might<br />
be reticent to invest in an expensive<br />
course. But if a stylist shared that<br />
their long-term goal was to have<br />
their own salon, I would think about<br />
how this passion could be<br />
harnessed to benefit us<br />
both while that stylist<br />
was part of my team.<br />
I would also think how<br />
this passion could be<br />
part of my own long-term<br />
vision to grow my brand<br />
with the best possible<br />
people. A salon has to be<br />
owned or managed by people with a similar set of ideals<br />
and a desire for success.<br />
As I said earlier, if part of my role as a salon owner is to<br />
“find out what people want and help them to achieve it”,<br />
why can’t this be done together? I remember the mistakes<br />
I made as a young salon owner and wish I could have<br />
found the right mentor to work with.<br />
Often people want to take a more creative path and<br />
get involved with session work or platform work. Again,<br />
this passion can be used to benefit any salon. Imagery is<br />
an important part of marketing for any salon and imagery<br />
produced ‘in house’ says far more about the creativity<br />
of a salon than library or manufacturer supplied imagery.<br />
Talking of manufacturers, most of them have art teams<br />
nowadays. These can be used to promote brands at<br />
events such as trade shows, or to promote brands in<br />
salons. If you get involved with high-quality brands,<br />
for example one of the brands that my own company<br />
distributes is Paul Mitchell, it is often looking for<br />
talented, creative people, and provides education and<br />
opportunities to benefit both parties. The only thing I<br />
would add is that stylists often love to be involved with<br />
this type of work because it can be fun and exciting.<br />
However, at the end of the day, such involvement must<br />
be used to benefit and grow their own columns, to<br />
educate and grow their salon colleagues and to enhance<br />
the marketing of the salon in which they work.<br />
Share your dreams and goals, often they can become<br />
the dreams and goals of others. Together everyone<br />
achieves more.<br />
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU'D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?<br />
Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag<br />
42<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
2018<br />
TEAM AWARDS<br />
2018 FINALISTS<br />
BEST SALON TEAM<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Blue Tit, London<br />
Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester<br />
Review, Hampshire<br />
Sixth Sense Salon, Birmingham<br />
SJ Forbes, Surrey<br />
BEST LOCAL SALON<br />
Category sponsor<br />
/ ALL-STAR<br />
ROLL CALL<br />
JUDGING THIS YEAR’S ENTRIES WAS<br />
CRAZY-TOUGH, SO WHO CUTS THE<br />
MOST WANTED MUSTARD? LADIES<br />
AND GENTS, HERE’S WHO’S HOT…<br />
@creativeheadmag #MWIT18<br />
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George’s Hairdressing, Leicester<br />
Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester<br />
Porters Barbers, London<br />
Pure Hair, Surrey<br />
Saks, Aberdeen<br />
BEST SALON<br />
EXPERIENCE<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Cut & Grind, Covent Garden<br />
Hare & Bone, London<br />
Not Another Salon, London<br />
Radio, Kings Cross<br />
Stil, London<br />
BEST NEW SALON<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Nashwhite, Stratford-upon-Avon<br />
Nicola Clarke at John Frieda, London<br />
Radio, Kings Cross<br />
Skyler London, London<br />
The Social, London
MALE GROOMING<br />
SPECIALIST<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Michael Francos, D&J Ambrose<br />
Matthew Gavin, Ruffians<br />
Kevin Luchmun, Kevin Luchmun<br />
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CREATIVE TALENT<br />
Category sponsor<br />
INDIVIDUAL AWARDS<br />
2018 FINALISTS<br />
HAIR TREND<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Sam Burnett, Hare & Bone<br />
Efi Davies, Toni&Guy<br />
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Kevin Kahan, Kevin Kahan<br />
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AWARD FOR<br />
INNOVATION<br />
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IT’S<br />
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AND THE IT LIST<br />
GRAND FINAL<br />
Andrew Barton<br />
Sam Burnett, Hare & Bone<br />
Zoë Irwin, Taylor Taylor London<br />
Adam Reed, Percy & Reed<br />
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BUSINESS THINKER<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Tim Binnington for The Manta<br />
Syd Hayes for #SydPin<br />
Robert Masciave for eBlade scissors<br />
Steve McManus for Hairtribe<br />
Stewart Roberts for Haircuts 4 Homeless<br />
SESSION STYLIST<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Katy Grimshaw, Spectrum One<br />
Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon<br />
Skyler McDonald, Skyler London<br />
Sally Montague, Sally Montague Hair Group<br />
Caroline Sanderson, Ego Hair Design<br />
COLOUR EXPERT<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Clayde Baumann, D&J Ambrose<br />
Sarah Black, Linton & Mac<br />
Claire Bonney, Radio<br />
Casey Coleman, CHAIR<br />
Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon<br />
Syd Hayes<br />
Larry King<br />
James Pecis<br />
Adam Reed<br />
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HAIR ICON<br />
Category sponsor<br />
Duffy<br />
Sally Brooks<br />
Nicola Clarke<br />
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SOLD OUT<br />
WAITING LIST ONLY CALL 01434 610940<br />
03.09.18<br />
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM<br />
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event<br />
2018
2018<br />
THIS<br />
IS US<br />
AMBITIOUS, REVOLUTIONARY AND 100 PER<br />
CENT FEARLESS – MEET THE INCREDIBLY<br />
TALENTED IT LIST 2018 SHORTLIST!<br />
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creativeheadmag.com/theitlist<br />
THE RISING STAR<br />
ELLIOT FORBES<br />
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THOMAS FORDE<br />
CUT & GRIND<br />
OLIVER HULL<br />
BROOKS & BROOKS<br />
JORDAN MASSARELLA<br />
NASHWHITE<br />
ISAAC VERRALL<br />
PERCY & REED<br />
THE FASHIONISTA<br />
JODIE AUSTEN<br />
THE PEACHY STUDIO<br />
JACK BAKER<br />
BAD APPLE HAIR<br />
KIERON FOWLES<br />
REGIS UK<br />
MADS SUNE LUND CHRISTENSEN<br />
JOSH WOOD ATELIER<br />
CHAD MAXWELL<br />
THE ENTREPRENEUR<br />
PHIL BENTON<br />
DOUCE<br />
ROB CZLAPKA<br />
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MESART
FINALISTS<br />
THE VISIONARY<br />
JAMIE BENNY<br />
HARE & BONE<br />
GRACE DALGLEISH<br />
BROOKS & BROOKS<br />
RIA KULIK<br />
THE HAIRBANK<br />
JESSICA NEIL<br />
KH HAIR<br />
JAKE UNGER<br />
HOB SALONS<br />
THE IT GUY<br />
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IN COLLABORATION WITH<br />
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FIND YOUR STOCKIST AT FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM
THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS<br />
Mr. Q<br />
welcomes you…<br />
One of the most popular sections of this year’s Salon<br />
Smart was the barbers’ discussion with Matt Robinson,<br />
Tom Chapman, Andrew Cannon and Jonathan Andrew<br />
about the business and perception of modern men’s<br />
grooming. So we decided to take an even longer look –<br />
turn to page 14 for more. We also have a roundup from<br />
London Fashion Week Men’s, as well as a new collection<br />
from Joey Power. Plenty to see you through the summer…<br />
YOU NEED<br />
TO MEET…<br />
LIAM HAMILTON<br />
Hamilton’s Elite Barbershop, Redruth;<br />
founder, Armour to Barber<br />
GET SMART<br />
WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER<br />
1.<br />
Grooming Specialist. Turn to page<br />
Party… at the Most Wanted<br />
Awards Grand Final on<br />
3 September with host Katherine<br />
Ryan, where we reveal our Male<br />
44 of Creative HEAD for more!<br />
creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted<br />
2.<br />
londonschoolofbarbering.com<br />
3.<br />
Book a course… at the new<br />
academy in Manchester from<br />
London School of Barbering. We<br />
recommend the NVQ 3 Masters<br />
advanced course, where you’ll cut<br />
up to six haircuts daily on clients.<br />
Be inspired… by reliving all of<br />
the action from The Coterie’s<br />
Evolution of Man, sponsored by<br />
American Crew and with insight<br />
from Robin James (left), Bora<br />
Esen, Colin Petrie, Mark Maciver<br />
and journalist Jessica Bumpus.<br />
creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie<br />
Describe yourself in five words:<br />
Loyal, determined, ambitious,<br />
adaptable, passionate.<br />
What’s exciting you about<br />
British barbering and male<br />
grooming right now?<br />
The fact that most people in the<br />
industry will go out of their way to<br />
help others, whether it be to help<br />
with a charity, organisation or to pass<br />
on their skills and knowledge.<br />
Everything changed for me…<br />
When I was at secondary school<br />
I never really bothered with my<br />
hair until I changed barbers and<br />
I was told there were all sorts of<br />
possibilities and styles available. I<br />
rocked a flat top for a few months –<br />
but we don’t need to dwell on that!<br />
The barber who inspired me is…<br />
There are many barbers who have<br />
inspired me over the years but one<br />
sticks out. He’s a hairdresser, stylist,<br />
barber, educator, businessman and a<br />
lovely bloke too. Adam Sloan does<br />
so much work for charity and the<br />
future of barbering.<br />
Who else should we get<br />
to know…<br />
James Williams for his amazing work<br />
with his autism awareness campaigns.<br />
Tom Chapman for his tireless effort<br />
with male mental health awareness –<br />
all while flying all over the world to<br />
educate barbers.<br />
You might not know this<br />
about me…<br />
I served with the Coldstream<br />
Guards for 21 years and left just<br />
before my full 22 years due to a<br />
mental illness and injury.<br />
Say hello to me…<br />
on Instagram @armourtobarber,<br />
@hamiltonsbarbers, or on Facebook<br />
at Armour To Barber and Hamilton’s<br />
Elite Barber Shop.<br />
ON THE COVER<br />
Hair by Joey Power. Colour by Andrea Reiss, assisted by Dammy<br />
Ogunleye courtesy of Ena Salon. Photography by Andrew Gilbert.<br />
04 Mister Quarterly
NEW GROOM ROOM<br />
Eighty8, Rayleigh<br />
A freshly renovated space across two fl oors, Essex barber shop Eighty8 is housed in a<br />
vibrant, contemporary space designed by Art by H. There’s a real gallery vibe, with the<br />
shop hosting abstract art against black-tiled frames, neon signage and MC Escher-inspired<br />
tiled walls. Against the simple and modernist black surfaces you’ll fi nd Takara Belmont<br />
furniture – and Eighty8 will also be home to a bespoke training facility.<br />
MEET THE ELITE<br />
Alan Beak from Ruger (above, left) and Hard Grind’s Colin<br />
Petrie (above, right) are the new members of the American<br />
Crew Elite 2018 for the UK and Ireland. The title recognises<br />
individuals who contribute to the brand as infl uencers, session<br />
and stage stylists, educators and creatives, as well as ‘best<br />
practice’ barbers and represents exceptional practice in men’s<br />
grooming. Colin and Alan join a line-up that includes Baldy<br />
(Baldy’s Barbers), Matt Robinson (Mr Robinson’s Barbershop),<br />
Bora Esen (Porters Barbers), Sam Wall (Hidden Heights<br />
Studio), Dan Rix (The Master Barber’s Shop) and Paul Meekin<br />
(Paul Meekin Hair).<br />
BBA CROWNS<br />
BARBER OF<br />
THE YEAR<br />
Jay Kizito Byrne of Dog House<br />
Barbers in Birmingham<br />
(pictured) is the BBA British<br />
Barber of the Year, following a<br />
live final held in a boxing ring at<br />
Barber UK at the NEC. He wins<br />
the BBA belt and takes away<br />
prize money of £2,000 as well<br />
as £500-worth of BBA grooming<br />
products. “I felt a sense of relief<br />
after coming so close last year,”<br />
said Jay. “I wasn’t leaving<br />
without that belt!”<br />
56%<br />
Want<br />
PRIME NUMBERS supported by<br />
OF UK WOMEN have visited a barber shop at some point in the past two years, compared<br />
with 32 per cent of women admitting to visiting a barber shop in the previous two years. New<br />
research carried out by The Bluebeards Revenge has discovered that more women are visiting<br />
barber shops than ever before. Demands for much shorter, sharper hair styles is one of the<br />
reasons given for this rise, with 81 per cent of women who visited a barber shop in the past<br />
24 months citing edgier cuts as reasons for their regular appointments. Meanwhile, a whopping<br />
61 per cent stated the excessive costs of a hair salon as a key reason for switching to a barber.<br />
to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk<br />
Mister Quarterly 05
HAIR / SKIN / SHAVE<br />
#LIFELIVEDTRUE<br />
BAXTEROFCALIFORNIA.COM<br />
@BAXTEROFCA
MY SO CAL LIFE<br />
EMPOWER YOUR CLIENTS TO MAKE THEIR UNIQUE MARK ON THE<br />
WORLD WITH BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA – THE LIFESTYLE BRAND YOU<br />
NEED TO TAP INTO THE GROWING MILLENNIAL MARKET<br />
Los Angeles is a place for dreamers – people whose identities<br />
have been formed by their instincts, their journeys and the city<br />
they call home. The City of Angels offers a way of life few would<br />
turn down: sun-baked days riding the waves and balmy nights<br />
relaxing on rooftop terraces while the city twinkles below you.<br />
What if you could bring some of that So Cal vibe into your salon<br />
or barber shop? Baxter of California is the epitome of living the<br />
LA dream and the brand is bringing the city’s spirit and culture<br />
straight to the UK so that you can brighten up your clients’ days<br />
with a range of hair, shave, skin, body and lifestyle products.<br />
When it comes to purchasing power, millennials hold the key and<br />
Baxter of California is your way to appeal to this group, who are<br />
more likely to buy into a lifestyle than a one-dimensional brand.<br />
But we don’t just want to tell you what Baxter of California is<br />
all about, we want to show you. The ‘Life Lived True’ campaign<br />
showcases the spirit of Baxter of California, and the men it<br />
portrays are true Angelenos who have incorporated Baxter’s<br />
grooming essentials into their daily lives.<br />
MEET TODD<br />
Todd lives in Venice Beach<br />
where he teaches surf lessons<br />
and fire dancing. His day<br />
starts with a morning surf<br />
session and some beard<br />
maintenance, combing<br />
through Grooming Cream<br />
to keep it smooth and soft.<br />
After his day in the ocean,<br />
Todd uses Grooming Cream<br />
on his tapered undercut to<br />
add moisture back in and to<br />
keep his waves weightless.<br />
He also uses Clay Effect<br />
Style Spray to add hold,<br />
texture and definition to his<br />
long hairstyle.<br />
MEET HENRY<br />
Henry lives in Korea Town<br />
and teaches skate school. His<br />
other hobbies include painting<br />
and fishing. Already a selfprofessed<br />
‘boss’, he is working<br />
to one day become a chief<br />
executive. For his Dreaded<br />
Pompadour hairstyle, Henry<br />
uses his own dreads to<br />
tie up the top and smooths both<br />
the dreads and his hairline<br />
with Soft Water Pomade. This<br />
controls frizz and adds shine.<br />
He uses Hydro Salve Hand<br />
Cream throughout the day to<br />
keep his hard-working hands<br />
soft and supple.<br />
08 Mister Quarterly
PROMO<br />
MEET AUSTIN<br />
Austin is into extreme sports, including surfing, skating and<br />
snowboarding, and is a huge fan of chick flicks. Like Austin,<br />
his hard part fade is anything but boring. To style this haircut<br />
he uses Clay Pomade when his hair is towel dried and combs it<br />
into place. Austin also uses the revitalising Shave Tonic to help<br />
maintain healthy skin and freshens up with the Alcohol and<br />
Aluminium Free Deodorant. The formula tackles odour as it<br />
detoxifies and conditions the skin.<br />
MEET GIL<br />
Gil’s morning ritual starts with a shower and hot tea. He loves<br />
food, fashion and women. His Viking hairstyle shows he isn’t a<br />
man-bun sort of guy. In the shower, Gil uses the moisturising<br />
Italian Lime & Pomegranate Cleansing Bar and washes his hair<br />
using Daily Fortifying Shampoo. After towel-drying his hair,<br />
Gil applies Hard Water Pomade for shine and all-day control.<br />
Help clients to lead a life lived true with Baxter of California. To find out more and to become a stockist, visit baxterofcalifornia.com/contact<br />
Mister Quarterly 09
ON THE SHELF<br />
BOYS’ TOYS<br />
THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP<br />
R+Co’s new Waterfall<br />
Moisture + Shine lotion<br />
delivers hydration without<br />
excess weight, ideal<br />
for fine hair. Use on<br />
wet or dry hair to<br />
tame flyaways and<br />
moisturise ends.<br />
RRP £25<br />
01442 248104<br />
randco.com<br />
The<br />
Bluebeards<br />
Revenge Hair Gel<br />
is a multipurpose<br />
wonder and 50p from<br />
each tub sold is donated to<br />
The Lions Barber Collective.<br />
RRP £9.99<br />
bluebeards-revenge.co.uk<br />
The new Supra ZR II<br />
clipper from Andis now<br />
has a removable battery<br />
pack and 50 per cent<br />
more run time.<br />
£255<br />
01635 279824<br />
andis.com<br />
TIGI<br />
Bed<br />
Head for<br />
Men has three<br />
new products,<br />
Dense Up Style<br />
Building Shampoo,<br />
Press Up Body Building<br />
Styling Foam and Thick-Up<br />
Line Grooming Cream.<br />
RRP £10.50<br />
bedheadformen.com<br />
From short, sculpted styles to messy Tone<br />
mid-lengths, the new Fudge<br />
and<br />
Professional Mineral Paste has<br />
tighten<br />
a salt-infused formula for a<br />
shaved skin<br />
tactile, hydrated hold that<br />
with Astringent<br />
lasts all day.<br />
Foam from Reuzel.<br />
RRP £12.95<br />
It blends witch hazel,<br />
020 7845 6333<br />
rosemary and aloe vera to<br />
fudgeprofessional.<br />
moisturise and soothe.<br />
com<br />
RRP £12.99<br />
01392 365177<br />
reuzel.co.uk<br />
September brings the BaByliss<br />
PRO cordless Super Motor<br />
Clipper, with Japanese<br />
steel blades and a high<br />
torque pivot motor.<br />
£135<br />
0370 5133191<br />
babylisspro<br />
.co.uk<br />
Love that So Cal vibe?<br />
Now’s your chance to<br />
bring a bit of it to your shop<br />
with Baxter of California. The<br />
Los Angeles brand does it all, from<br />
hair and shaving to skin, body<br />
and lifestyle.<br />
RRP from £9<br />
baxterofcalifornia.<br />
com<br />
Engineered in the US, the WAHL<br />
Limited Edition Cordless Magic<br />
Clip features a ‘stagger<br />
tooth’ blade for a<br />
smoother cut.<br />
£104.99<br />
wahl.co.uk<br />
10 Mister Quarterly
PROMO<br />
STRONG<br />
STUFF<br />
IT’S TIME TO TAKE<br />
CONTROL, WITH<br />
TIGI BED HEAD<br />
FOR MEN<br />
Male grooming habits are<br />
changing. Men are becoming<br />
more experimental with their<br />
style, customising longer looks<br />
to suit their daily activities,<br />
whether that’s going to the gym<br />
or a day at the office. TIGI Bed<br />
Head for Men has three new<br />
products that are perfect for<br />
the creation of fuller-looking<br />
styles and ideal for men with<br />
fine hair needing texture and<br />
control without weight. The<br />
clever ingredient in these three<br />
products is caffeine, known<br />
for its stimulating properties,<br />
as well as key vitamins, biotin<br />
and niacin for healthy hair.<br />
DENSE UP<br />
STYLE BUILDING<br />
SHAMPOO<br />
This shampoo is powered<br />
by Bed Head for Men<br />
Uploader Technology<br />
to create lift, texture<br />
and control without the<br />
‘fluffiness’ men hate<br />
about freshly washed<br />
hair. The technology<br />
creates flexible bonds<br />
between hair fibres to<br />
style as it’s washed. If<br />
hair starts to flop, clients<br />
just push it back and<br />
bonds are reactivated.<br />
PRESS UP<br />
BODY BUILDING<br />
STYLING FOAM<br />
Men’s ranges don’t<br />
often include a foam or<br />
mousse, but the experts<br />
at TIGI predict that<br />
this will soon become an<br />
essential for men with<br />
fine hair. This styling<br />
foam helps build body,<br />
lasting up to 24 hours.<br />
Providing texture,<br />
control and a weightless<br />
hold, it makes even<br />
freshly washed hair easy<br />
to style.<br />
THICK-UP<br />
LINE GROOMING<br />
CREAM<br />
This cream gives<br />
flexible hold with a<br />
natural finish, helping<br />
build body, texture and<br />
control without adding<br />
weight. It features<br />
Bed Head for Men<br />
Uploader Technology<br />
to create flexible bonds<br />
between the hair fibres,<br />
guaranteeing great lift<br />
and longevity – perfect<br />
for men with curly or<br />
wavy hair.<br />
To achieve the best results with the new Bed Head for Men products, connect with<br />
TIGI Education support for new courses on the cuts and products, as well as step-by-steps<br />
for you and your client. Download the TIGI App 24/7 for always-on education<br />
For more information, visit bedheadformen.com. Follow on Twitter @tigipro, Instagram @tigiprofessional, @bedheadbytigi, and Facebook TigiProfessional and BedHeadbyTIGI<br />
Mister Quarterly 11
#TRENDING<br />
DRIVING FORCE<br />
FROM THE GREAT OUTDOORS TO ITALO DISCO AND ICONIC MULLETS, MR Q REPORTS BACK FROM<br />
SOME OF THE STANDOUT SHOWS AT LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S S/S19<br />
Images courtesy of American Crew, British Hair, Fudge Professional and R+Co<br />
ICEBERG<br />
John Vial for American Crew<br />
John Vial is making mullets mainstream<br />
once more with his take on the iconic ’80s<br />
look for Iceberg. The collection fused a love of<br />
Formula One and Italo disco with dance, football<br />
and London attitude – quite the mix. It was also<br />
an ode to the past with one eye on the future;<br />
something the hair summed up nicely in its mix<br />
of ’80s skinheads and point cut, disconnected<br />
mullets. To help him create the looks,<br />
John Vial had on hand American Crew’s<br />
Alternator, Spray Gel and Tech Series<br />
Flexible Hold Mousse.<br />
Stay cool.<br />
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN<br />
Brendan O’Sullivan for British Hair<br />
Raeburn’s React Now collection was a call to action to pay<br />
attention to our changing society and environment. In keeping<br />
with this theme, Brendan O’Sullivan for British Hair and his<br />
creative team kept the hair clean and back from the face, then<br />
gelled to achieve a wet look. Coloured stripes were added in<br />
silver, white and red, tying into tones within the collection.<br />
WOOD WOOD<br />
Jan Przemyk for AOFM using R+Co<br />
‘The Outside’ was the title of the<br />
latest show from the Danish design<br />
duo. “We created a hair texture that<br />
reflected being caught in the rain<br />
and leaving your hair to dry without<br />
touching it, so there was a lot of<br />
movement but little volume,” said<br />
Jan Przemyk. Hair was dampened<br />
with R+Co One Prep Spray, then a<br />
misting of R+Co Rockaway Salt Spray<br />
or Spiritualized Dry Shampoo Mist.<br />
Looks were finished with the R+Co<br />
Trophy Shine + Texture Spray.<br />
LIAM HODGES<br />
Matt Mulhall for Fudge Professional<br />
Tattooed hillbillies had made it in Sin<br />
City at Liam Hodges, where models<br />
were given a messed-up mullet and a<br />
flash-trash attitude. To make the men<br />
look like they’d just emerged after a<br />
heavy night in Vegas, lead stylist Matt<br />
Mulhall misted hair then applied a<br />
generous amount of Fudge Professional<br />
Vinyl Pomade from the roots through<br />
to the ends. Next, he pulled the hair<br />
back using palms to flatten. Sides were<br />
secured with barrettes and Fudge<br />
Professional Skyscraper Extra hairspray.<br />
12 Mister Quarterly
ESSENTIAL<br />
PICKING MY FAVOURITE AMERICAN CREW PRODUCTS<br />
FROM SUCH AN EXTENSIVE RANGE IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT,<br />
BUT I MUST SAY MY WINNING COMBO RIGHT NOW<br />
IS THE BOOST POWDER TEAMED WITH THE CREAM<br />
POMADE. I FEEL THE BOOST POWDER IS FAR<br />
MORE DIVERSE THAN OTHER POWDERS<br />
AND CAN BE WORKED INTO THE ROOT FOR<br />
STYLING, BUT ALSO FOR FINISHING LOOKS.<br />
THE NEW CREAM POMADE IS A GREAT<br />
ALTERNATIVE TO CLASSIC WATER OR<br />
GREASE-BASED POMADES<br />
COLIN PETRIE, HARD GRIND<br />
MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR<br />
YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO<br />
KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH<br />
Get the look Sam Wall<br />
(@mrsamwall), UK winner<br />
of American Crew’s All-<br />
Star Challenge, created<br />
and shot with brand<br />
founder David Raccuglia.<br />
Sam used American Crew<br />
Light Hold Texture Lotion<br />
to wet hair before cutting<br />
the sides and back, and<br />
connecting the top using a<br />
feathered razor. Hair was<br />
blow-dried using Control<br />
Foam, before applying<br />
Boost Spray into the<br />
roots and finishing with<br />
Grooming Cream.<br />
#MrQCrewCloseUp<br />
AND THE WINNER IS…<br />
The global winner of the American Crew All-<br />
Star Challenge is Vitaly Pimenov from Russia!<br />
He was chosen from 15 finalists in the annual<br />
competition that recognises the best men’s<br />
hair stylists. The award and prize of $10,000<br />
was presented by David Raccuglia, founder of<br />
American Crew, pictured above left with Vitaly.<br />
AMERICAN CREW ON THE ROAD WITH HARLEY-DAVIDSON<br />
It’s a match made in heaven – an iconic<br />
motorcycle brand and a world-renowned<br />
men’s hair brand have come together to<br />
celebrate their shared heritage. American<br />
Crew has announced it’s working<br />
with Harley-Davidson to craft unique<br />
experiences and events for consumers<br />
worldwide. “This collaboration with<br />
Harley-Davidson is a milestone in the life<br />
of American Crew,” said David Raccuglia,<br />
founder of American Crew. “We’re looking<br />
forward to connecting the brands through<br />
our shared values of freedom and selfexpression.”<br />
To kick-start the partnership,<br />
American Crew and Harley-Davidson shot<br />
an advertising campaign, Style for the Road,<br />
in Marfa, an art hub in Texas. A short fi lm<br />
has also been produced.<br />
Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com<br />
AmericanCrewUK<br />
Mister Quarterly 13
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
QUALITY<br />
not QUANTITY<br />
MALE GROOMING IS BOOMING AND BARBER SHOPS ARE THE SECOND MOST COMMON<br />
HIGH STREET OPENINGS – BUT IS IT ALL A CAUSE FOR CELEBRATION?<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
With an influx of new<br />
barber shops opening on<br />
high streets up and down<br />
the country, there have<br />
been rumblings of dissent<br />
in the barber community.<br />
Not, as you might<br />
imagine, about the hike in<br />
competition. Instead, the<br />
artists and craftsmen of the<br />
trade are worried about a<br />
dilution of key skills and<br />
talents, resulting in more<br />
dissatisfied customers<br />
and a distrust for the<br />
profession. “There are a<br />
lot more shops popping<br />
up, you see it all the time,”<br />
says Mark Maciver, AKA<br />
SliderCuts. “It’s safe to<br />
assume the quality of work<br />
is not consistent.”<br />
It’s a topic that sparked<br />
real debate during the men’s<br />
grooming panel at Salon<br />
Smart. The panel, featuring<br />
Most Wanted 2017 Male<br />
Grooming Specialist Jonathan<br />
Andrew, Matt Robinson of<br />
Mister Robinson’s Barbershop,<br />
the Lions Barber Collective’s<br />
founder Tom Chapman and<br />
Ruffians’ Andrew Cannon. The difference<br />
between the pre-boom landscape and the<br />
current high street is enormous – “It’s not<br />
much of a comparison at all. We’ve left our<br />
comfort zone,” Matt noted. “But where is<br />
the standard?”<br />
According to research conducted by<br />
Armour to Barber (a skills organisation for<br />
ex-servicemen) and grooming brand The<br />
Bluebeards Revenge, 83 per cent of those<br />
working in the industry believe that the<br />
sector will continue to flourish. However,<br />
63 per cent of the 1,001 respondents did not<br />
believe that the industry currently has<br />
enough quality barbers to cope with<br />
rising consumer demand. A mixture<br />
of reasons as to this squeeze were<br />
identified, such as the ‘conveyor<br />
belt’ system of too much pressure to<br />
complete cuts quickly (64 per cent<br />
of respondents) and inadequate<br />
training by colleges (33 per cent).<br />
This worries Tom Chapman<br />
the most. “There are independent<br />
barbering academies where you<br />
can train 12 weeks to the shop<br />
floor,” he says.<br />
Mark adds: “It’s not necessarily<br />
a lack of talent, but maybe<br />
they’re not focusing on barbering<br />
as a craft. They’re just looking at it<br />
solely as a business opportunity.<br />
On the plus side there are more people coming<br />
into the industry, talented people, who are<br />
taking it seriously. On the other there are<br />
those who are just looking to capitalise on a<br />
trend and make a quick buck.”<br />
When it comes to something as personal<br />
as barbering, why is there this ‘conveyor<br />
belt’ approach? At what point did ‘under 10<br />
minutes’ become the right amount of time for a<br />
personalised cut or style?<br />
Looking to make real change to the situation<br />
is the British Barbers’ Association, which<br />
announced in April that it had been chosen<br />
SliderCuts (inset) and with boxer Anthony Joshua<br />
14 Mister Quarterly
to lead the global alliance for Barbering and<br />
Men’s Grooming standards. The Men’s Global<br />
Grooming Alliance is a mix of barbering<br />
associations and leading male grooming<br />
companies from countries such as Australia,<br />
Canada, India, New Zealand, South Korea<br />
and the US – a move which implies that these<br />
concerns are widespread. The initiative aims<br />
to encourage the sharing of standards, updates<br />
on grooming trends, the latest technical<br />
guidance and codes of good practice.<br />
While many shops have their own niche<br />
and appeal, for the uninitiated it might be<br />
hard to discern what constitutes a quality<br />
establishment – especially if a customer is new<br />
to the area and hasn’t yet found ‘The One’.<br />
Jim Shaw from essensuals is realistic:<br />
“I don’t think this is something we can<br />
change, but what we can do is make sure we<br />
Jonny Long<br />
Jim Shaw<br />
continue to offer an experience instead of just<br />
a haircut, that we always have the latest and<br />
most professional products to help our clients<br />
recreate their style at home, and to ensure<br />
stylists are trained to the highest standards.”<br />
Barber shops are more than just a place<br />
to get a haircut. They are a meeting place, a<br />
space for sharing ideas and thoughts that will<br />
maybe never go beyond the chair. “Boosting<br />
confidence and competence in our barbers<br />
and creating a space where our clients feel<br />
welcome, relaxed and genuinely valued has<br />
been really important to us,” Natalie Angold<br />
at Ruffians Shoreditch explains.<br />
“We believe that you should build a clientele<br />
that grows organically rather than churning<br />
out the cuts like a conveyer belt and relying<br />
Ruffians<br />
on walk-ins. Otherwise it<br />
suppresses the morale and<br />
creativity of our barbers, but<br />
these small changes mean<br />
having happy customers and<br />
happy barbers.”<br />
The past decade has seen<br />
an unprecedented rise in<br />
men’s grooming, with no sign<br />
of slowing down – in 2017,<br />
barbering was the fastestgrowing<br />
profession in the<br />
US, according to Forbes.<br />
So how should barbers be<br />
staying ahead of the curve?<br />
The answer, inevitably,<br />
comes down to training and<br />
recruitment. Finding those<br />
who have the drive, the<br />
potential and – importantly<br />
– the patience to make an<br />
excellent barber proves to<br />
be the biggest challenge.<br />
Jonny Long from<br />
Lockonego, is cautiously<br />
optimistic: “I feel that once<br />
things settle down the cream<br />
will rise and the rest will<br />
fall. Regulation is something<br />
that has been spoken about<br />
for years and I feel that<br />
the industry does well in<br />
regulating itself, so natural<br />
order will take place,” he<br />
says. “Education is out there;<br />
it’s a case of the salon owners<br />
and the barbers themselves<br />
getting the training to master<br />
the trade that can make you a<br />
good living if done right.”<br />
Corrado Tevere at Radio<br />
Hair, which includes a men’s<br />
grooming branch called<br />
Manifesto, agrees that it’s<br />
down to the owners: “They<br />
should keep the quality<br />
control, and make sure staff<br />
are consistently trained.”<br />
There has been enormous<br />
growth and exposure of<br />
barbering recently, and new<br />
challenges to face up to. It’s<br />
now a fashionable career<br />
choice, but those in it for the<br />
lifestyle alone will soon find<br />
themselves staring down the<br />
barrel of uncompromising<br />
standards from their peers.<br />
Mister Quarterly 15
T O T A L<br />
UTILITY<br />
BEGINNING A NEW CHAPTER AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF EIGHTY8,<br />
JOEY POWER LAUDS SUITABILITY, EXPRESSION AND INDIVIDUALITY<br />
WITH HIS NEW COLLECTION ‘UTILITY’<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW GILBERT<br />
16 Mister Quarterly
Hair by Joey Power. Colour by Andrea Reiss, assisted by Dammy Ogunleye courtesy of Ena Salon. Make-up by<br />
Ciara McCarthy. Clothing by Kervin Marc. Styling by Joey Power, assisted by Georgina Gilbert. Production by AKAcreate<br />
Mister Quarterly 17
SHOP TALK<br />
POLE POSITION<br />
HARD GRIND<br />
HAIRCUTS, COFFEE AND APPAREL – THESE SCOTTISH BARBERS<br />
OFFER SO MUCH MORE THAN A SHORT BACK AND SIDES<br />
Barbering wasn’t always on the cards<br />
for Colin Petrie but, luckily for us, he<br />
discovered his natural flair for the<br />
profession while travelling the world as a<br />
musician. “When we were on tour in Canada<br />
and Japan we were away from home for a<br />
long time and didn’t know any salons so I<br />
started cutting hair,” he explains.<br />
Fusing together his new-found talent with<br />
experience in streetwear retail, he opened<br />
Hard Grind in Dundee. “I created a lifestyle<br />
store where you could shop for apparel, get<br />
coffee or a milkshake and get a haircut.<br />
It’s like a little shopping mall experience<br />
but honed for a certain kind of style.” And<br />
within just six months, Colin had opened<br />
a second shop in Aberdeen.<br />
Hard Grind’s appeal is down to its<br />
authenticity and unique voice, which<br />
resonates with customers. “We are very<br />
real,” says Colin. “The art is from my own<br />
collection. The jukebox is from my house<br />
and there are a couple of things here from<br />
my old kitchen. If I was going to live and<br />
breathe the shop, I wanted it to be my home<br />
from home.”<br />
And despite phenomenal popularity, Colin<br />
is conscious that he needs to hold on to<br />
the personal feel that resonates with Hard<br />
Grind’s customers. “Big investors came in<br />
very quickly and wanted to franchise.<br />
I wouldn’t say I am a control freak but I’m<br />
very passionate about the brand and I don’t<br />
chase money, it’s not what drives me. I<br />
think if you build something real and true,<br />
people will respond to that.”<br />
Now Colin has been announced as a<br />
member of American Crew’s Elite Team,<br />
a partnership that couldn’t be more<br />
perfect. “American Crew blew my mind.<br />
It’s at the forefront of barbering and has<br />
just announced a big campaign with<br />
Harley-Davidson, which is so up my street,”<br />
he laughs.<br />
18 Mister Quarterly
"It's me!"<br />
OUR<br />
FEATURED ARTIST<br />
IN JULY IS<br />
ASHLEIGH HODGES<br />
The former It List It Girl on her love of music and books, how she’s<br />
pushing her avant-garde skills and who’s joining her for a dinner party…<br />
"... and then<br />
it's our turn!"<br />
OUR FEATURED ARTISTS<br />
IN AUGUST ARE<br />
RANKIN AND NICK IRWIN<br />
Rankin, the legendary photographer, shares<br />
his insight on how to take a perfect portrait,<br />
and we explore his enduring creative<br />
relationship with session stylist, Nick Irwin<br />
HEAD ONLINE NOW!<br />
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION
THE BIG IDEA<br />
GHD X<br />
LULU GUINNESS<br />
BRITISH STYLE ICONS Lulu Guinness and ghd have<br />
teamed up to battle breast cancer. Adding to the brand’s timehonoured<br />
tradition of support, the ghd x Lulu Guinness collection<br />
features Lulu’s iconic lip print on the ghd gold styler and ghd air<br />
hairdryer, with £10 from every purchase going straight to Breast Cancer<br />
Now. In the past 14 years ghd collaborations with global breast cancer<br />
charities have raised more than £10 million. “I spent a lot of time looking<br />
at different pink effects,” Lulu told Creative HEAD exclusively. “I just<br />
wanted something subtle – not what I’m usually known for! – and pretty.<br />
Making something hard, like a styler, into something soft was the<br />
challenge. This way you can own something pretty and still give back<br />
to Breast Cancer Now. Everyone does their own bit – I just want to<br />
bring something which distracts you if you’re going through<br />
a hard time, to bring a moment of joy when you need it.”<br />
And for every pouting selfie posted on Instagram with<br />
#KissThisCancer, tagging @ghdhair and<br />
@breastcancernow, ghd will donate an<br />
additional £1. Pucker up!<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
51
Ready<br />
for your<br />
close-up?<br />
Empower your clients and protect their tresses<br />
for picture-perfect blonde results with new<br />
Série Expert Blondifier by L’Oréal Professionnel<br />
52 CREATIVE HEAD
SUMMER IS WHEN blondes reign supreme. Whether it is golden,<br />
sun-kissed highlights, ash tones or a cool platinum, blondes come into their<br />
own as the weather heats up. However, the sun can dry out lighter strands<br />
faster than a British heatwave disappears. Throughout summer, blondes need<br />
to keep their hair well-maintained to prevent colour fading, dryness and lack of<br />
shine (not to mention the dreaded brassy tone blondes are prone to).<br />
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
If your blonde clients have concerns about losing colour radiance and<br />
dullness, L’Oréal Professionnel has a solution to help your clients empower<br />
and protect their blonde: new Série Expert Blondifier. A bespoke colour care<br />
solution for all blondes that launches in August, Blondifier provides<br />
in-salon solutions for photo-ready blondes and an aftercare range to help<br />
clients keep their blonde looking great all summer long.<br />
#EMPOWERYOURBLONDE<br />
IN THE SALON<br />
GIVE YOUR CLIENT THE PERFECT BLONDE<br />
The Blondifier range is set to become every blonde’s new<br />
best friend. Featuring new pigment boosters, it enables<br />
you to give your clients the shade of blonde they’ve been<br />
dreaming about.<br />
For the cool, light blonde, use the Cool Blonde Perfector,<br />
which contains purple pigments to neutralise undesired<br />
yellow undertones. For the warmer blonde client, use<br />
the Sun-Kissed Blonde Perfector, which contains blue<br />
pigments to neutralise undesired copper undertones.<br />
GIVE CLIENTS A BLONDE POWER SERVICE<br />
For a regular, affordable service, use a Blondifier booster<br />
with Blondifier masque. Make it bespoke by mixing the<br />
booster with Powermix Vitamino for an instant boost of<br />
colour radiance, or mix with Powermix Repair to help<br />
repair damaged hair.<br />
AT HOME<br />
DISCOVER THE CARE AT HOME RANGE<br />
Formulated with Açaí Polyphenol, a superfood antioxidant<br />
present in the açaí berry, the targeted formulation helps<br />
revive blonde hair and add shine. The new Série Expert<br />
Blondifier haircare range is perfect for those who need to<br />
give their hair that extra TLC (so all blondes, then!).<br />
The Cool Shampoo is enriched with violet brightening<br />
pigments to neutralise yellow tones and leave hair radiant.<br />
It is best for cool blondes to help their colour last longer.<br />
The Gloss Shampoo is for all blondes and gently cleanses<br />
the hair, emphasising blonde hair’s multi-dimensional<br />
shine. It also provides nourishment and helps smooth<br />
damaged strands.<br />
For extra conditioning and nourishment, recommend<br />
that clients with fine hair use the conditioner at every wash<br />
and the masque as a once-a-week treatment, the masque is<br />
also the perfect conditioner for clients with thick hair.<br />
For more information, speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager, call 0800 0304034<br />
or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk. #EMPOWERYOURBLONDE<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
53
ALL YOU<br />
NEED FOR<br />
HEALTHY<br />
HAIR<br />
IT BEGINS WITH A BLOW-DRY AND ENDS WITH HEALTHY<br />
HAIR – EVERY TIME. HOW? IT’S ALL IN THE HAIRBRUSH…<br />
WHEN THE PRESSURE’S ON and you’ve got to deliver a fabulous blow-dry, there’s only<br />
one brush you’ll ever need – Tangle Teezer. The secret to a good blow-dry lies in the hairbrush<br />
you use. Tangle Teezer’s founder, Shaun Pulfrey, has spent years working in busy salons,<br />
so he knows exactly what stylists are up against every day. This is why he created a range<br />
of blow-drying tools to help you master any look, quickly and effortlessly. Designed to work<br />
with low-heat hairdryers, Tangle Teezer brushes will not only leave clients with fabulouslooking<br />
hair, but their strands will be in much better condition, too – guaranteeing they<br />
will come back time and again. There are two types of Blow-Styling Tools you need in your<br />
kit bag arsenal: The Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool, for a sleek finish with natural volume,<br />
movement and shine; and The Blow-Styling Round Tool, for volume and root lift, with<br />
bounce and shine. Tangle Teezer Blow-Styling tools will help you to:<br />
• Increase the speed of your blow-dry as the tools help you take hair from wet to dry faster than<br />
ever, thanks to the bottle-shaped teeth that extract water quickly.<br />
• Give clients a healthier blow-dry as you use the hairbrushes with your hairdryer on a lower<br />
heat setting and lower speed, so the hair isn’t heat damaged.<br />
• Become an expert in blow-drying. Tangle Teezer blow-drys are like haircuts and the brand’s<br />
salon masterclasses teach you all the techniques to ace it.<br />
• Build confidence. No matter what client walks through the door, you’ll feel confident tackling<br />
all hair types.<br />
54<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
YOUR STEPS TO SMOOTHER HAIR<br />
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
STEP 1: DETANGLING<br />
Gently towel-dry the hair,<br />
blotting rather than rubbing.<br />
Use the Tangle Teezer Salon<br />
Elite brush at the ends and<br />
work your way up to the roots.<br />
STEP 2: SECTIONING<br />
Start at the nape and create<br />
horseshoe blow-drying<br />
sections, which measure the<br />
width of the Blow-Styling<br />
Smoothing Tool.<br />
STEP 3: PICK UP AT THE ROOT<br />
Place the Blow-Styling<br />
Tool at the root and pick<br />
up the section of hair,<br />
distributing it evenly<br />
through the tool.<br />
STEP 4: DRYING ROOTS<br />
TO MID-LENGTHS<br />
Hold a hairdryer a few inches<br />
away from the hair and follow<br />
it as it’s drawn through the<br />
teeth of the brush.<br />
STEP 5: DRYING THE ENDS<br />
Continue to follow the<br />
hair with the Blow-Styling<br />
Smoothing Tool through<br />
to the ends, creating some<br />
tension to smooth flyaways.<br />
STEP 6: VOLUMISING CROWN<br />
For smooth, sleek hair with<br />
root lift, pick the hair up<br />
at the crown at a 45-degree<br />
angle and follow the shape<br />
of the head.<br />
SHAUN’S<br />
TOP TIP!<br />
There’s no need to blast<br />
the hair at full heat and<br />
speed. Your blow-dry will<br />
be much smoother, sleeker<br />
and kinder to the hair if<br />
you lower the speed<br />
and the heat<br />
THE FINISHED LOOK!<br />
Big, bouncy and voluminous hair with plenty of movement.<br />
For more styling masterclasses from Tangle Teezer, call 020 7738 4458 or email sales@tangleteezer.com<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
55
IN ASSOCIATION WITH<br />
Millennials?<br />
SO last century. Meet<br />
Generation Z' These techsavvy,<br />
super-stimulated<br />
individualists represent the<br />
latest generation of stylists.<br />
Born in the mid-1990s and<br />
having lived the bulk of their<br />
lives online, we cut through<br />
the stereotypes to talk to<br />
the people behind the label<br />
- young hairdressers forging<br />
their own unique paths...<br />
56 CREATIVE HEAD
GENERATION Z<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
MEETS Gen Z<br />
In a quiet corner of East London we caught up with five Gen Z-ers - Darcie Harvey<br />
(Brooks & Brooks), Harry Wiffen (Trevor Sorbie), Sam william Hill (Cut & Grind), Tegan<br />
Robertson (Not Another Salon) and Tom Dodd (Spirit Hair Design) - to discuss their careers,<br />
the attitudes of older stylists and their thoughts about what it takes to make it today<br />
CREATIVE HEAD: How did you get into hairdressing?<br />
TEGAN ROBERTSON: I never really thought of hairdressing as<br />
a career. I think when you’re a creative type you’re pushed<br />
down certain paths at school – I was pushed into art,<br />
but then I found my way into fashion. I ended up going<br />
to university, hated it, got kicked out, and was like ‘what<br />
do I do with my life now?!’ But then I was watching my<br />
favourite film, The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the<br />
Desert, and noticed something. The reason I wanted to<br />
get into fashion was because my dream, from the age of<br />
about 10 years old, was to design drag queen costumes<br />
– but this time I started looking at the wigs and thought<br />
“Oh my gosh, their wigs are just as amazing… maybe I<br />
could do that?” It was a lightbulb moment. So, the next<br />
day I called up my favourite salon in London and got a job<br />
there the next week! My parents were just happy that I had<br />
a job and a potential career at this point. They are both<br />
very hands-on people – I’m from Zimbabwe and I think<br />
it’s a very African thing – and so they’ve always respected<br />
people who have a trade and work hard.<br />
HARRY WIFFEN: When I left school I didn’t have a clue<br />
what I wanted to do. I don’t feel like they really give you<br />
the option of doing hairdressing or really talk about it as<br />
much as other careers. Luckily, my brother was doing a<br />
hairdressing course at the time and he said I should give it<br />
a go. I went to college, hated it, quit (well, got kicked out,<br />
too!) and eventually moved to London. I finally got into a<br />
good salon where they are creative and I found my feet.<br />
SAM WILLIAM HILL: I used to hate getting my hair cut as a<br />
kid. I always kicked off! One day, as a teen, I passed this<br />
barber shop in Brighton where people were skating outside<br />
and playing cool music. I went inside and had a haircut and<br />
it was a really nice experience. So I thought: ‘Right, they’re<br />
wearing what they want, doing what they want, listening<br />
to what they want, I’ll give it a go.’ So I started looking into<br />
classic haircuts and decided that I wanted to do that.<br />
DARCIE HARVEY: With school I did really well grades-wise,<br />
so my mum wanted me to go to university. She was<br />
always saying ‘You can’t do hairdressing,’ even though<br />
I really wanted to. I’d read a newspaper article about<br />
how hairdressers were the happiest employees, and I<br />
just wanted to be happy in my career. So my mum said<br />
to me: ‘If you go to sixth form, work on your days off for<br />
a year, then I’ll let you do hairdressing.’ I went to school<br />
three days a week and then every day off and after school,<br />
I worked at a salon. I didn’t actually have a very nice<br />
experience there, so it did make me wonder if I actually<br />
wanted to be a hairdresser. Then my own hairstylist, one<br />
of the creative directors at a Toni&Guy salon, told me that<br />
I should go to a salon in central London, where it’s cooler<br />
and edgier, as I would enjoy it a lot more. If I’d have gone<br />
to university, I was looking at sociology, but hairdressing is<br />
people-focused and you can work your way up the ladder<br />
and get rewarded, which makes you happy. And my goal<br />
was always just to be happy.<br />
TOM DODD: I actually started out as a dog groomer – which<br />
is no reflection of my clients now! I got good grades at<br />
school too, but decided to go to animal college and<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
57
study animal care, behaviour, and grooming. But I wasn’t<br />
obsessed with it, and I began second-guessing myself.<br />
I did work as a dog groomer for about a year and a half<br />
once I’d got the qualifications, but I wasn’t enthusiastic.<br />
I’d had enough of being pooed on, scratched and bitten,<br />
so I just quit. I was probably unemployed for about a<br />
month and a half and I was really stuck. It was my mum<br />
who said that I could be good at hairdressing because<br />
I’m very social; I love talking to people and making them<br />
feel good. So I went to a salon for a trial to see if I’d like it.<br />
I absolutely fell in love with it – completely head over heels<br />
for hairdressing.<br />
CH: Many of you did not enjoy college, is there anything<br />
the industry can do to improve this?<br />
TR: I feel we really need to modernise the training process.<br />
There’s still a huge hierarchy in salons and far too often<br />
assistants are seen simply as cleaners. It’s a really oldfashioned<br />
way of training, and I think people need to see<br />
assistants for what they are: trainee hairdressers.<br />
CH: Have you had any regrets about choosing to become<br />
a hairdresser?<br />
TD: In the first salon I worked at it was very homely and<br />
I made friends for life. But then I went to another, less<br />
friendly salon. I got so distraught it almost made me want<br />
to give up. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to be in a job that made<br />
me feel that bad! I had to take myself out of there and take<br />
a couple of months off to decide if this was really what I<br />
wanted to do, but when I came back it all clicked again.<br />
It gave me the confidence to feel good about my goals.<br />
It’s important to build people up rather than drag them<br />
down or pit them against each other.<br />
DH: My only regret would be the age I started – I wish<br />
I’d started at 16, straight from school. From a money<br />
perspective, you can be paid an apprentice’s salary at<br />
16 and you can survive on that for four years, but when<br />
you’re in your twenties and you’re training for that long and<br />
not getting paid much money, it can be quite difficult!<br />
SWH: I don’t have any regrets really. I once went into a shop<br />
where it was obvious they felt they could get away with<br />
HW: While there are a few people who have made it through<br />
being self-taught, it’s so frustrating to see people who<br />
think they can just teach themselves and be okay at it too.<br />
Education about hair needs to be better. People work hard<br />
to get what they want, pushing themselves and constantly<br />
working to be where they want to be. It’s frustrating to feel<br />
like people look down on you, to think that hair’s just a<br />
basic career. There should be more young people teaching<br />
hairdressing as well. Sometimes at colleges, there are old<br />
people who are completely stuck in their ways. It would be<br />
worth bringing in new people who are actually doing new<br />
things. It’s an innovative industry and things are changing all<br />
the time.<br />
DH: It’s more of a social thing. I still have to explain what I<br />
do to people. When I say ‘I’m a hairdresser,’ they sort of<br />
go ‘Oh, alright’ because they think you just cut hair, when<br />
actually I do shoots, I do shows, I write articles, I work with<br />
celebrities. There’s just so much more to it.<br />
paying people next to nothing while they were training.<br />
Some salons can take advantage of you because you<br />
want to be there.<br />
HW: I would say it would be going to college at 16. I feel like<br />
it was a waste of time and I didn’t know that I could just<br />
go straight into a salon – a good salon – and be trained<br />
by them. I could have started sooner and been a stylist by<br />
Sophia Hilton once told me she<br />
always knew she'd be a successful<br />
hairdresser because she put the same<br />
amount of effort into scrubbing the<br />
skirting boards as she did a blow-dry"<br />
Darcie harvey<br />
58 CREATIVE HEAD
#GenerationZ<br />
now, but instead I’m just coming to the end of my training.<br />
I wasted time being in a place where I wasn’t taught<br />
properly, or listened to or understood.<br />
CH: Now that you’re on the shop floor, what has been the<br />
most difficult part of the journey to becoming a trainee?<br />
TR: There’s a lot of things that can be diffi cult to deal with.<br />
It’s slow, you work like a dog and you can get paid terribly.<br />
However, if you stick with it long enough, a whole lot of<br />
amazing opportunities will come your way.<br />
DH: I think you have to do those more menial jobs to be a<br />
good stylist. There’s always going to be a day where you<br />
don’t want to do something, or have an awful client, or<br />
someone will be really rude to you backstage at a show –<br />
you have to go through that to be able to handle anything.<br />
It’s a mentality thing, too; you have to do rubbish jobs to<br />
make you a hard worker. Sophia Hilton once told me she<br />
always knew she’d be a successful hairdresser because<br />
she put the same amount of effort into scrubbing the<br />
skirting boards as she did a blow-dry.<br />
All day long people come into the<br />
barber shop and say 'I want to do<br />
this!' because it's cool; but you soon see<br />
those people leave the industry because<br />
they don't actually like what they do"<br />
sam william hill<br />
TR: I think it’s also really hard to stay motivated and inspired<br />
when so often you’re not always treated in the best way.<br />
DH: Part of it is that people can’t take criticism on the chin.<br />
You do get knocked down quite a lot, particularly if you’re<br />
in a good salon – you’ll be told your work is no good.<br />
When you start your apprenticeship, you’re quite naïve so<br />
you’re going to make a lot of mistakes, but it moulds you<br />
as a person. People always say your salon is your second<br />
family because they bring you up so much and make you<br />
better – not just as a hairdresser, but personally.<br />
CH: Have you seen other young staff lose faith in<br />
hairdressing, and do you feel like there’s quite a high<br />
turnover at the moment?<br />
SWH: All day long people come into the barber shop and<br />
say ‘I want to do this!’ because it’s cool; but you soon see<br />
those people leave the industry because they don’t actually<br />
like what they do.<br />
HW: I’ve been at Trevor Sorbie for two-and-a-half years<br />
and there’s only three of us who made it all the way<br />
through, out of about 30 people. A lot of them came into<br />
hairdressing thinking it would be an easy career, but if<br />
you’re in the right place then it is hard and there is a lot<br />
of pressure. People last maybe six to eight months, until<br />
they realise how long it’s actually going to take; it’s not<br />
something you can do in a few weeks.<br />
TH: Defi nitely. Some people just look at the industry and<br />
think it’s easy, that it’ll be a sweet ride, just a 9 to 5 and<br />
that’s it. It’s not like that at all.<br />
SWH: In barbering, It’s more an issue of money making<br />
people leave. When you start out you’re probably only<br />
earning about £600 a month.<br />
CH: What advice would you give to managers and salon<br />
owners reading this?<br />
TD: Just be nice. It’s good to be strict, to have boundaries<br />
and high standards, but at the same time you need to<br />
nurture. I think a lot of people just remain uninvolved<br />
and give orders, but if you’ve got the time, spend it<br />
going through things with younger staff and help them<br />
to feel confi dent. Obviously, you don’t want them to<br />
become big-headed, but you want them to be confi dent<br />
enough to do their job well and enjoy it.<br />
TR: Make sure your staff are expressing themselves. Never<br />
limit their creativity and always treat them with respect.<br />
now gen z-ers, it's your turn...<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
59
60 CREATIVE HEAD
#GenerationZ<br />
DARCIE<br />
HARVEY<br />
NAMED THE RISING STAR AT THE IT LIST AWARDS 2017,<br />
DARCIE HARVEY LIVES AND BREATHES HAIRDRESSING.<br />
THE BROOKS & BROOKS ASSISTANT STYLIST IS<br />
DETERMINED TO MAKE HER MARK IN THE INDUSTRY<br />
“WHEN I STARTED hairdressing I wanted to do everything before knowing how<br />
to do it. And unfortunately, that is exactly what I did. I was always running before<br />
I could walk – or even crawl for that matter. I wanted to assist on all the shoots,<br />
help out at all the shows, but I had zero experience. So I knew I had to gain it.<br />
“Only a couple of months into training I gained contacts with photographers,<br />
make-up artists, stylists and models and started test shooting… before even<br />
knowing how to blow-dry. You can imagine just how those pictures turned out! It<br />
was a huge learning curve each time. With no knowledge, just hunger, I gradually<br />
gained experience, which then gave me knowledge, and led to me eventually<br />
getting the assisting opportunities I craved. I am privileged enough to work for<br />
Brooks & Brooks, where the opportunities for creative work are endless, but the<br />
best advice I have been given is to ‘rein it in’. I cannot tell you how many times<br />
in my career so far I’ve been told that! I’ve now learned that less is more,<br />
simple is stunning, and if your work is well executed it will speak for itself.<br />
“I love being surrounded by such a diverse team, where no matter the job, there<br />
will always be someone to ask for help. The highlight of my career so far? The<br />
show work! I’ll never get tired of that buzz of adrenaline you get when<br />
you are onstage, showcasing something you have put your blood,<br />
sweat and tears into. And just the whole process – finding a<br />
model, working out a technique, practising, sticking with it,<br />
making it your own and creating something you are really<br />
proud of. Of course, every time I do a job, I look back and<br />
think of all the things I would do differently, but we are all our<br />
own worst critics. The most important part of this is learning,<br />
and every time you do something, the next time it will be better.”<br />
2017<br />
CREATIVE HEAD 61
HARRY WIFFEN<br />
After nearly abandoning hairdressing at the age of 17, Essex boy Harry<br />
made a last ditch move to London and fell back in love with the<br />
industry thanks to an apprenticeship at Trevor Sorbie. Here's how<br />
he's working to make his boundary-breaking dreams a reality...<br />
“I WAS BORN and raised in Essex, and started a<br />
hairdressing apprenticeship at the age of 16 at a local<br />
hair salon. I then moved to London at 21 to fulfil my<br />
dream and train as a professional hair stylist – and I’ve<br />
literally just passed the vardering programme at Trevor<br />
Sorbie! Trust me when I say being an assistant is far<br />
from easy. It has lots of challenges as well as rewards.<br />
I was fortunate enough to assist at London Fashion<br />
Week, to travel to Madrid with Tom Connell to assist<br />
at Show Positivo, and to be the hair stylist for Quiz<br />
Clothing’s campaign shoot in Morocco.<br />
“Working in fast-paced environments like Fashion<br />
Week and at shows, it gets very intense. This is when<br />
the skills you’ve learnt throughout your training really<br />
come to practice. And the feeling you get when it’s<br />
over – seeing your team’s work presented live in front<br />
of an audience – is breath-taking. I have also worked<br />
alongside session stylist Adam Szabo for magazines<br />
such as Pop and Under The Influence. Experiences,<br />
opportunities and projects like these are the reason<br />
I love what I do. Getting to meet other industry<br />
professionals, travelling to new places and bringing<br />
new ideas to life is what really inspires me as a stylist.<br />
“Although the hair industry involves a lot of creativity,<br />
I still feel like there are a lot of stigmas that need to be<br />
broken. As a young, open-minded creative, I want to<br />
smash gender norms, mix cultures, break boundaries<br />
and change the industry’s idea of beauty standards.<br />
“One particular look I created that really shows<br />
these ambitions was for Trevor Sorbie’s Assistant<br />
competition back in November 2016. I decided to<br />
produce a 1920s finger wave with a twist. Instead<br />
of your classic wave on a female model, I decided<br />
to create the look on a young teenage boy who was<br />
wearing a black latex skirt, had black painted nails<br />
and was sporting classic eye make-up. My aim was<br />
to break every rule, and challenge stigma around<br />
gender non-conformity. I’m really inspired by London’s<br />
diverse street style. People who challenge societal<br />
norms in the way they present themselves have<br />
always intrigued me. Most of my inspiration comes<br />
from outside of the hair industry really, including varied<br />
types of music, photography and fashion.<br />
“My aim is to work with other young creatives who<br />
are less known and make images that cause a rift.<br />
I want to shake up the industry. I also want to inspire<br />
others to be more open-minded in their work. Oh, and<br />
to take over the world!”<br />
62 CREATIVE HEAD
#GenerationZ<br />
Harry Wiffen<br />
CREATIVE HEAD 63
64 CREATIVE HEAD
Sam William Hill<br />
#GenerationZ<br />
SAM william<br />
HILL<br />
SAM WILLIAM HILL IS A GLOWING EXAMPLE OF UP-AND-<br />
COMING BARBERING TALENT. AFTER FINDING HIS FEET AT<br />
CUT & GRIND, THE MOST WANTED BEST NEW SALON OF<br />
2017, HIS DILIGENCE AND DEDICATION THROUGHOUT HIS<br />
TRAINING AND BEYOND HAS SEEN HIM EARMARKED<br />
AS A FUTURE STAR<br />
“You’ve really got to love what you do to make it in barbering. It’s long hours and<br />
it kills your shoulders, and you’re always learning new skills along the way. For<br />
me, the beginning was hard as I was completely new to the industry and young,<br />
having just turned 17. No-one seemed to want to give me a chance to help out<br />
and cut hair in their shop. It took travelling from Cambridge to London every<br />
day on the train and working for free to get my skills and passion across to any<br />
potential employers. I met Hari Efthymiades [founder of Cut & Grind] and he gave<br />
me the opportunity to be who I am today; a barber doing a job I really enjoy.<br />
“One thing I quickly learned is customer service is everything in this industry. You<br />
need to give the best you can. I get to meet so many different customers – having<br />
conversations about their hair in a relaxed atmosphere, sharing a beer – and then<br />
providing a service they will come back for. It’s a great feeling when you see your<br />
customers out and about, and seeing them with a haircut you’ve gave them is my<br />
favourite part by far. Since I started working in the industry, I’ve got to know so<br />
many people that support each other in what we do, going to barbering events<br />
and meeting up to watch each other work. I’ve also been asked by a few new<br />
barbers to train them – it’s great to think that they like my work enough to want<br />
to learn from me. I have a few people that inspire me: my boss Hari, of course;<br />
Instagram sensation @andrewdoeshair; Shane Nesbitt, which goes without saying;<br />
and Josh Lamonaca. Other people that inspire me outside of the hair world are<br />
tattooists Chris O’Day, @louis.loveless and @traphousetattooer, and the artist Matt<br />
McCormick. Some I know quite well, and I have the utmost respect for all of them.<br />
“In the distant future I’d love to have my own barber shop. Travelling and<br />
working in new countries has to come first though, as there’s so much I want to<br />
experience. Social media really helps as I’m able to reach out to other barbers<br />
around the world, to see how they work and learn from them, too.<br />
I am very happy in my job and it’s great being able to earn money doing<br />
something I love. I feel I have earned respect working at Cut & Grind from the<br />
very beginning of the shop’s life to where it is today. Hari gave me the chance<br />
to prove what I could do when I was very young, and I really appreciate the<br />
opportunities that have come my way as a result of him seeing my potential.”<br />
CREATIVE HEAD 65
66 CREATIVE HEAD
#GenerationZ<br />
TEGAN<br />
ROBERTSON<br />
Green hair, a wild laugh and infectious enthusiasm... Tegan Robertson has<br />
all three. This stylist found her second home at Not Another Salon<br />
“NOT A LOT of people realise this but I’m originally<br />
from Zimbabwe. I moved here at the awkward age<br />
of 14. Looking at my picture, most of you probably<br />
can’t imagine someone like me growing up in an<br />
environment like that and let me tell you, it wasn’t<br />
easy. I’ve always been wildly creative and to say<br />
‘eccentric’ is probably an understatement. I stood out,<br />
no-one really knew what to do with me and I didn’t<br />
really know what to do with myself. However, my<br />
parents have always been progressive and accepting,<br />
so they always encouraged me to be myself and be<br />
an individual. I grew up with the understanding that my<br />
uniqueness and my character made me special. I may<br />
not be good at spelling or running – or good at many<br />
things at all for that matter – but I always knew I was<br />
meant for great things.<br />
“The sad thing is that education on the whole is a<br />
one-size-fits-all system and for the most part, people<br />
like me get lost or pushed into corners. Having a<br />
wild imagination and, thanks to ADHD, an horrific<br />
attention-span, you can imagine I wasn’t top of the<br />
class. It’s much easier letting kids rot in the bottom<br />
set than it is to understand them. Not only that, but<br />
creative people like me have very few options at<br />
school or college. We’re pushed into an art class and<br />
if we can’t paint we’re pretty much useless.<br />
“This is how I fell into fashion. It was the only artistic<br />
alternative offered to people like me. To cut a long<br />
story short, I ended up being pushed into university<br />
and after two years I found myself kicked out, living at<br />
my parents’ house and at a loss with what to do.<br />
“One of the reasons I got into fashion was because<br />
I always wanted to make fabulous, over-the-top drag<br />
queen costumes. I applied to the coolest salon I could<br />
find and in two weeks I was working there.<br />
“All of a sudden I was an apprentice. The only<br />
thing I could liken it to is a tough fashion internship,<br />
similar to ones you see on TV shows. A modern<br />
apprenticeship in a good salon in London, for the<br />
most part, means a LOT of hard work. However,<br />
it is the most exciting and rewarding thing you<br />
can do. If there’s one word of advice I’d give to<br />
any young person in the industry, it would be<br />
not to wait around for opportunities. Most of<br />
the chances I’ve got have been by going to<br />
events and meeting people, even making<br />
friends on Instagram.<br />
“My dream would be to become a sort of<br />
hair personality, inspiring others with my<br />
passion. I think my big personality is<br />
one of my greatest gifts and I’d love to<br />
use it for something hair-related. I’m<br />
still not sure what that may be but<br />
I’m sure it’ll be fantastic.”<br />
CREATIVE HEAD 67
TOM DODD<br />
Spirit Hairdressing's Tom Dodd has music running through his veins, and hair<br />
at his very heart. With a clear focus on creating possibilities for the next<br />
generation of hairdressers, he outlines his plans to affect change with<br />
social media and a touch of Stevie Nicks...<br />
“I FEEL SO PROUD to be a part of this creative<br />
industry, where people can unleash their ideas. I have<br />
always been experimenting with creative ideas across<br />
fashion, music, art and hair. It really drives me to<br />
generate a vision, draw inspiration from everywhere,<br />
and finally create it. Experiencing that and seeing the<br />
results of that process from other people is what I love<br />
so much about hairdressing.<br />
“I also feel lucky to be building my career in the era<br />
of social media. There are so many platforms available<br />
to launch everyone’s work and it’s a great way for me<br />
to show my creations for the whole world to see.<br />
“I want to be an idol – for someone to look up to<br />
me and feel inspired when they see my work, that is<br />
my ultimate goal. I want to go into this industry with a<br />
fresh, new approach for the younger generations. To<br />
create innovative techniques and ideas that we can<br />
share and create from. I will not stop striving for this<br />
and pushing myself until the next generation are a<br />
powerhouse of talent and skill!<br />
“My role models are from all areas of the creative<br />
world, from hair to fashion and music. If I ever have<br />
a creative block or an issue with my visions, I’ll sit in<br />
a room, stick on some Lana Del Rey, Lady Gaga or<br />
Florence Welch and just immerse myself in their art.<br />
It really gives so much inspiration that I can bring into<br />
my own work. Another huge role model for me is John<br />
Galliano; his artistry in the fashion world is second<br />
to none and pushes me to think outside the box, to<br />
change things I wouldn’t dream of changing normally.<br />
“During my time in the ghd style squad, I worked<br />
on an incredible array of influence projects. These<br />
were created by the amazing Zoë Irwin, specifically<br />
to challenge our thinking and creative flow. Zoë has<br />
really broadened my thought processes when it<br />
comes to creating these different ideas<br />
for the projects; and has really built<br />
my confidence to go out and try<br />
things that I wouldn’t before. I<br />
managed to bag myself Fashion<br />
Week, platform work and much<br />
more; all thanks to ghd. I feel<br />
that the ghd style squad has really<br />
elevated me to a new level<br />
that I can take into my career.<br />
“Thanks to my love of<br />
music, it has always been a<br />
dream of mine to work with<br />
one of my many musical muses<br />
– Gaga, Lana, Florence, Marina<br />
Diamandis, or Stevie Nicks.<br />
To do their hair and<br />
create something based<br />
on our joint vision…<br />
well, I would I die<br />
a happy human!”<br />
68 CREATIVE HEAD
#GenerationZ<br />
CREATIVE HEAD 69
SQUAD GOALS<br />
TIME TO SAY ‘SO LONG’ TO THE 2017/18 GHD STYLE SQUAD, BUT BEFORE THEY<br />
MOVE ON WE TAKE A LOOK AT ALL THEY’VE ACHIEVED IN THE PAST YEAR<br />
IN AN INDUSTRY that’s all about new and next,<br />
a place on the ghd style squad is a sure-fire way<br />
of catapulting your career and making a name for<br />
yourself. The year-long programme for emerging<br />
hairdressing talent aims to help young stylists grow<br />
their skills in all aspects of the industry – from styling<br />
and product know-how to social media mastery and<br />
fashion history.<br />
The 2017/18 squad is currently preparing to don<br />
graduation gowns and head back out into the world,<br />
equipped with 12 months of experience, education<br />
and inspiration. Led by ghd education manager,<br />
Lorna Baker, and mentored by ghd UK brand<br />
ambassador, Zoë Irwin, the team has travelled the<br />
country, taken on new challenges and learned more<br />
than they could ever have dreamt possible.<br />
Highlights of the year have included furthering<br />
their knowledge with Zoë and being encouraged to<br />
70 CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
develop their creative processes through projects<br />
designed to help them research, study and dig deep<br />
into fashion influences. The team studied Jean-<br />
Michel Basquiat and Patti Smith through books,<br />
movies, exhibitions and more.<br />
Work from these projects – and the rest of the<br />
team’s year – will be presented in an end-of-year<br />
exhibition at ghd HQ, where press and industry<br />
players will check out their creations and have<br />
the chance to chat with the squad members about<br />
their time with the programme.<br />
“We’re so proud of our style squad,” says team<br />
leader, Lorna Baker. “Every year, we’re excited to<br />
hunt out the most talented young hairdressers<br />
in the country and help them grow. This year’s<br />
team have been incredible. They’ve risen to every<br />
creative challenge and produced work that’s pushed<br />
boundaries and made them think – we can’t wait to<br />
see where they go next.”<br />
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE<br />
CLASS OF 2017/18…<br />
Jemma Clemas, Seckingtons, Northampton<br />
Essi Karjalainen, D&J Ambrose, London<br />
Isaac Verrall, Percy & Reed, London<br />
Nicholas Campbell, Taylor Taylor London<br />
Tom Dodd, Spirit Hair Design, Dorset<br />
Amy Russell, Russell & Brown, Liverpool<br />
Molly Gibson, Richards Hairdressing, Great Wyrley<br />
Kerry September, freelance MUA, London<br />
Sophie Jones, Charles Worthington, London<br />
Daniele de Santis, Headmasters, Wandsworth<br />
Nicole Meer, Rush, Horsham<br />
Emma Mason, The Gallery Hair Cutters, Norwich<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
71
TALENT MEETS<br />
OPPORTUNITY<br />
STEP INTO THE SPOTLIGHT 2018/19 GHD STYLE SQUAD – NOW IS YOUR MOMENT!<br />
72 CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
AS ONE ghd style squad says goodbye, it’s time to<br />
welcome in a new team and get started on another<br />
year of education and opportunity.<br />
This year’s team was recruited through open<br />
auditions in Manchester and London, with hundreds<br />
of budding hair heroes heading through the doors<br />
to present their models. Each was tasked with<br />
producing a signature look that said something about<br />
their personal aesthetic.<br />
Judges included ghd brand ambassador Zoë Irwin;<br />
2017 Fame Team member and ghd brand warrior,<br />
Ria Kulik; and ghd global head of education Jo<br />
Robertson; as well as members of the ghd education<br />
team, Jordan Thomas; Amy Sontae; Dafydd Thomas;<br />
and Lorna Baker.<br />
Following the auditions, shortlisted stylists were<br />
asked to post an Instagram video of themselves<br />
recreating their favourite fashion week look, in order<br />
to check out their chops as camera-ready creatives<br />
and their industry know-how.<br />
So what’s in store for the new team? A year of<br />
money-can’t-buy opportunities, including priceless<br />
mentoring and training from Zoë Irwin and other<br />
industry leaders, opportunities to try new ghd<br />
products, fashion-led projects and many more<br />
amazing industry experiences.<br />
SAY HELLO TO TEAM 2018/19<br />
Claire McGowen, B-Fierce Hair and Makeup Studio, Glasgow<br />
Emma Collins, Melo Yelo, Hugh Campbell Hair Group, Limerick<br />
Izzy Twombley, H2O Hairdressing, Barrow Upon Soar<br />
Bekki Mooney, Star Salon, Liverpool<br />
Bradley Szekeres, Contemporary, Stokesley,<br />
Tom Beale-Burchell, Francesco Group, Knowle<br />
Bea Friend, Clipso, St Albans<br />
Pamela Cooney, Toni&Guy, Birmingham<br />
Conor Mclaughlin, HOB Salons, Loughton<br />
Katy Burgess, Headquarters Hair, Leatherhead<br />
George Waterfield, Georges, Leicester<br />
Rachel Gulliver, Watkins-Wright, Thirsk<br />
Karen Bradshaw, Headmasters, Soho<br />
Liberty Clark, Francesco Group, Cheltenham<br />
Yazz Nuttall, The Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port<br />
Mason Brock, Pkai Hair, Market Deeping<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
73
IT’S ALL IN<br />
the mix<br />
Halcyon days spent lounging<br />
in the sunshine is our idea<br />
of heaven, but dry, summerscorched<br />
hair is not. Luckily,<br />
JOICO has designed the<br />
perfect summer cocktail<br />
for every hair type<br />
A PERFECTLY BALANCED cocktail can be the<br />
best way to wind up a perfect summer’s day,<br />
and the balance is all in the ingredients. It’s<br />
the same for hair; the right mix of ingredients<br />
can keep hair looking healthy and vibrant for<br />
happy hair days, all summer long.<br />
Scorching summer days (fingers crossed) are<br />
when clients’ hair needs a little extra TLC to<br />
stop hair becoming dry and dehydrated, so<br />
make sure you’re on hand to steer them in<br />
the right direction. Help clients discover<br />
their perfect combination of moisturising,<br />
colour care and style and finishing<br />
products with a little help from JOICO.<br />
68<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
Colour care<br />
HELP CLIENTS PREVENT COLOUR FROM FADING AND KEEP<br />
THEIR HAIR SOFT, SMOOTH AND SHINY WITH THESE TIPS:<br />
1. Hats – not only protect your locks, but beautiful straw, floppy<br />
hats never go out of style.<br />
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
2. Hair needs protecting just like skin – advise clients to cover<br />
up with UV-protecting JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock<br />
Multi-Perfector or JOICO Blonde Life Brightening Veil.<br />
3. Treat your clients – encourage them to care for their<br />
coloured hair using JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock<br />
treatment or JOICO Blonde Life Brightening Masque for a<br />
daily dose of protection.<br />
Moisturise<br />
KEEP HAIR HYDRATED IN THE HEAT<br />
BY FOLLOWING THESE RULES:<br />
1. Drink up – advise clients to think of<br />
their hair like their skin. When they’re<br />
dehydrated, skin becomes dry and cracked,<br />
and the same goes for their hair.<br />
2. Nourish and nurture – help clients find<br />
their perfect hydrating match within the<br />
JOICO Moisture Recovery range and K-Pak<br />
Revitaluxe from the K-Pak range.<br />
Style and finish<br />
ONCE HAIR IS LOOKING HEALTHY, IT’S TIME FOR CLIENTS<br />
TO MAKE SURE THEIR STYLE DOESN’T LET THEM DOWN<br />
1. Hair Shake – this liquid-to-powder texturising finisher<br />
provides volume to any hair type. Its mouldable yet dry<br />
texture is perfect for adding definition and lift.<br />
2. Beach Shake – glamorous, beachy texture that won’t dry out<br />
hair the way some salt sprays can, it works best on medium to<br />
thick hair.<br />
3. Body Shake – provides perfectly imperfect volume and<br />
body for the hair – without any visits to the gym. It delivers<br />
a velvety matte finish.<br />
Get mixing the perfect summer hair cocktail for your clients with JOICO.<br />
To find out more, call 0845 0712326 or visit joicoeurope.com/joicosummer<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
75
*When using Neuro ® Prime. **When<br />
using Neuro ® Repair. ***When using<br />
Neuro ® Protect or Finish. Products<br />
were tested by an established,<br />
independent third-party<br />
laboratory. Results may vary.
GUILT-FREEHEATSTYLING<br />
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Salon-success.co.uk/neuro-liquid<br />
0845 659 0011
“ BECAUSE<br />
WHEN YOU<br />
KNOW WHO<br />
YOU ARE,<br />
YOU HAVE THE<br />
COURAGE TO DO<br />
ANYTHING YOU<br />
DREAM OF<br />
”<br />
78
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL<br />
Guy Tang #mydentity<br />
Evolve Together<br />
Now<br />
available<br />
in the UK,<br />
exclusively from<br />
Salon Success<br />
and Salon<br />
Services<br />
16pp_Mydentity.indd 1 26/06/2018 13:40<br />
AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN THE UK FROM SALON SUCCESS AND SALON SERVICES<br />
79
“I’ve struggled<br />
with my identity.<br />
Overcoming<br />
these challenges<br />
has made<br />
me stronger”<br />
Guy Tang<br />
With the launch of #mydentity in the UK, Guy Tang<br />
hopes to not only provide colourists with in-demand<br />
shades, but also empower them to create the colours<br />
they’ve always dreamed of
Scroll through Guy Tang’s Instagram feed and<br />
you wouldn’t think he’d ever suffered from<br />
an identity crisis. With 2.3 million Instagram<br />
followers, he’s a social media sensation.<br />
But growing up it was a different story. He<br />
didn’t know who he was, what he wanted<br />
to do in life, or what his purpose was. Then<br />
he found hair and he found direction.<br />
“I found my purpose. It was to make a<br />
difference; change the world by doing hair,”<br />
says Guy. “But more than that it was to be a<br />
friend, a #hairbestie, and inspire other stylists<br />
just like me to find their identity, because I had<br />
such a hard time finding mine.”<br />
From this grew #mydentity. “I created<br />
#mydentity because I wanted to customise<br />
colours that we all dream of – hues that are<br />
missing from today’s hair colour,” explains Guy.<br />
He wanted to create a range that brings back<br />
the fun and excitement in our industry. Most of all,<br />
he wanted to create a community that empowers<br />
the #hairbestie family, and enables all colourists<br />
and stylists to find their #mydentity, because<br />
“when you know who you are, you have the<br />
courage to do anything you dream”.<br />
With the support of millions of<br />
#hairbesties around the world, you<br />
can now create the most demanding<br />
hair shades of the season with Guy<br />
Tang’s #mydentity.<br />
It’s the first influencer brand<br />
created by the biggest social media<br />
superstar in the professional hair<br />
industry worldwide. And now it’s<br />
arrived on UK shores, with nearly<br />
50 new shades set to join the<br />
collection this summer!
#mydentity<br />
customised colours<br />
we all dream of<br />
The Guy Tang #mydentity collection features<br />
an assortment of pre-blended, completely<br />
customised colours designed with ultimate<br />
creativity in mind. These are shades that will<br />
enable you easily to recreate the hottest hair<br />
colour trends of the season, as well as natural,<br />
wearable, salon-sellable looks. Formulated<br />
using advanced Vibrariche Technology,<br />
#mydentity delivers vibrant, intense colour with<br />
double the shine – well, nobody wants dull hair,<br />
right? And because achieving fashion<br />
colours means pre-lightening, often to a pale<br />
level 10, #mydentity includes an exclusive<br />
keratin and argan seed oil blend – to ensure<br />
clients’ hair is protected and conditioned. But<br />
the special ingredient that gets Guy so excited<br />
is Miru-Style X-HP. It delivers extreme heat<br />
protection from thermal styling – up to 230˚C<br />
– helping to protect the beautiful colours you<br />
create from fading.
Clients should<br />
experience more<br />
than just another<br />
hair colour service.<br />
That’s why #mydentity is<br />
infused with Guy Tang’s<br />
favourite lavender<br />
fragrance. It smells<br />
so good!
#mydentity<br />
The Collection<br />
PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR<br />
Breakthrough Miru-Style X-HP delivering<br />
extreme heat protection – up to 230˚C –<br />
to radically reduce the damaging effects<br />
of thermal styling<br />
Advanced Vibrariche technology for hair<br />
colour with 2x the shine<br />
Formulated with Guy’s favourite lavender<br />
fragrance<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
Mixing ratio 1:1. Processing time:<br />
30 minutes. For resistant greys, process up<br />
to 40 minutes<br />
DEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR<br />
Breakthrough Miru-Style X-HP delivering<br />
extreme heat protection – up to 230˚C –<br />
to radically reduce the damaging effects<br />
of thermal styling<br />
Advanced Vibrariche technology for hair<br />
colour with 2x the shine<br />
Formulated with Guy’s favourite lavender<br />
fragrance<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
Mixing ratio 1:2. Processing time:<br />
25 minutes. When looking for more opaque<br />
coverage, mix 1:1
DEMI-PERMANENT CRYSTAL CLEAR<br />
Use for a colour glossing treatment or<br />
to dilute or lessen deposit<br />
“The most versatile<br />
shade in my portfolio!”<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
COLOUR GLOSSING TREATMENT:<br />
Mixing ratio – 1:2. Processing time:<br />
5 to 25 minutes<br />
DILUTE OR LESSEN DEPOSIT:<br />
Incorporate desired amount – up to 50 per<br />
cent – into any demi-permanent formulation.<br />
Processing time: 5 to 25 minutes<br />
PERMANENT DARK SHADOWS<br />
Formulated with the lowest ammonia<br />
possible, it’s best for a shadow rootagé.<br />
Use it to smoke out permanent shades<br />
“For impactful colour<br />
and shadow rootagé”<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
DIRECT APPLICATION:<br />
Can be mixed with permanent or demipermanent<br />
developer (6v – 20v) for desired<br />
consistency. Processing time: 20 minutes<br />
ENHANCE ANY PERMANENT SHADE:<br />
Add into permanent formulation, no extra<br />
developer needed. Process according to<br />
permanent formulation
#mydentity<br />
The Collection<br />
X-PRESS TONERS<br />
Breakthrough Miru-Style X-HP delivering<br />
extreme heat protection – up to 230˚C –<br />
to radically reduce the damaging effects<br />
of thermal styling<br />
Advanced Vibrariche Technology for hair<br />
colour with 2x the shine<br />
Tone out any unwanted pigments in up to<br />
5 minutes<br />
A range of toning results that deliver the most<br />
control, with a depth of a level 8 deposit<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
1:2 ratio with 6vol developer for 5 minutes<br />
on damp hair<br />
#MAGNUM8 POWDER LIGHTENER<br />
Dust-free, violet powder that lifts<br />
up to 8 levels<br />
Fast-acting on-and-off scalp lift that delivers<br />
maximum control<br />
Provides superior condition during<br />
lifting process<br />
Formulated with Guy Tang’s favourite<br />
lavender fragrance<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
Mix 1:1 up to 1:3 with #mydentity Permanent<br />
Developer for desired consistency. On-scalp<br />
application up to 20vol. Off-scalp application<br />
up to 40vol. Apply to dry unwashed hair.<br />
Processing time: 20 to 45 minutes
#BIG9 CRÈME LIGHTENER<br />
Lifts up to 9 levels in a single application<br />
– no heat required<br />
Versatile formula for precise and global<br />
application techniques<br />
Delivers superior conditioning during the<br />
lifting process<br />
DEVELOPER COLLECTION<br />
Formulated with Guy Tang’s favourite<br />
lavender fragrance<br />
Available in a range of:<br />
6v Demi-Permanent Developer<br />
10v – 40v Permanent Developer<br />
For all your #mydentity colour needs<br />
Protective crème base soothes the scalp<br />
and reduces sensitivity<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE<br />
Mix 1:1 for global consistency, mix 1:1.5<br />
for precision foil or root retouch<br />
application. On-scalp up to 20 vol. Off-scalp<br />
application up to 40 vol. Processing time:<br />
20 to 45 minutes
SEDUCTION<br />
#Magnum8 + Permanent 20V<br />
Developer (1:2) on the roots<br />
#Magnum8 + Permanent 30V<br />
Developer (1:2) on the mid-lengths<br />
and ends<br />
58g Demi-Permanent Naked +<br />
Demi-Permanent 6V Developer<br />
(1:2) on the roots<br />
58g Demi-Permanent Naked 10 +<br />
Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2)<br />
on the mid-lengths and ends<br />
LET’S.<br />
GET.<br />
NAKED.<br />
Introducing the Naked Collection from<br />
#mydentity. A new collection of three<br />
demi-permanent shades that deliver<br />
cool tones with a warm reflection, giving<br />
a soft, powder-like reflection
TEMPTATION<br />
Backcomb balayage with #Magnum8 +<br />
Permanent 30V Developer (1:2)<br />
110g Demi-Permanent 6A + Demi-<br />
Permanent 6IG + 2g Demi-Permanent 6A +<br />
Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2)<br />
applied to backcombed areas<br />
Demi-Permanent Naked 8 +<br />
Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2)<br />
on mid-lengths<br />
Demi-Permanent Naked 10 +<br />
Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2)<br />
on mid-lengths<br />
58g Demi-Permanent Naked 10 + 55g<br />
Demi-Permanent Crystal Clear + Demi-<br />
Permanent 6V Developer (1:2) on the ends<br />
“Naked tones! Mix them with<br />
Rose Gold or Dusty Lavender<br />
and Silver Smoke to create<br />
beautiful Blush, Mauve and<br />
Taupe Naked tones, and<br />
customise them to make wearable<br />
shades for your client”<br />
Guy Tang
“I love the Midnight Rose series to create<br />
a rich, deep cool red colour. Great for<br />
intermixing with Dusty Lavender and rose<br />
colours for a different creative direction<br />
in tonality”<br />
Guy Tang<br />
MIDNIGHT ROSE<br />
Permanent 6MR (58g) mixed 1:1<br />
with Permanent Developer 20V<br />
at the rootagé<br />
Permanent 6MR (58g) mixed 1:1 with<br />
equal parts of Permanent Developer<br />
20V (29g) & Permanent Developer<br />
30V (29g) on the mid-lengths and<br />
through the ends<br />
BLUSH<br />
#Big9 Crème Lightener (50g) +<br />
#Magnum8 Powder Lightener<br />
(50g) mixed 1:2 with Permanent<br />
Developer 30V to pre-lighten<br />
Demi-Permanent X-PRESS Toner<br />
Misty Mauve (58g) mixed 1:2 with<br />
Demi-Permanent Developer 6V<br />
at the rootagé<br />
Demi-Permanent X-PRESS Toner<br />
Blush (58g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-<br />
Permanent Developer 6V on the<br />
mid-lengths<br />
Demi-Permanent X-PRESS Toner<br />
Blush (58g) + Demi-Permanent<br />
Crystal Clear (58g) mixed 1:2 with<br />
Demi-Permanent Developer 6V<br />
through the ends<br />
“#HairBesties, I love mixing the<br />
X-PRESS toners together to get<br />
different variations of tones”<br />
Guy Tang
“OMG #hairbesties!<br />
I love an ice gold tone”<br />
ICE GOLD<br />
The ice gold series gives a hybrid tonality<br />
that adds an iridescent cool reflection to a<br />
soft gold tonality. Great for toning blondes<br />
and lowlighting<br />
Guy Tang<br />
#Magnum8 mixed 1:2 with Permanent<br />
Developer 30V to pre-lighten. #Hairbesties,<br />
I used the Stardust Technique with<br />
backcombing placement<br />
Demi-Permanent 9IG (58g) + Demi-Permanent<br />
6IG (29g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent<br />
Developer 6V at the rootagé<br />
Demi-Permanent 9IG (58g) mixed 1:2 with<br />
Demi-Permanent Developer 6V on mid-lengths<br />
Demi-Permanent 9IG (58g) + Demi-Permanent<br />
Crystal Clear (58g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-<br />
Permanent Developer 6V through the ends<br />
SILVER SMOKE<br />
Demi-Permanent 6SS (58 g) mixed 1:2<br />
with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V at<br />
the rootagé<br />
“#HairBesties I love the #mydentity<br />
Silver Smoke and Dusty Lavender combo.<br />
It gives you this smoky, icy finish with<br />
so much dimension, so much movement!”<br />
Guy Tang<br />
Demi-Permanent 8DL (58 g) & Demi-<br />
Permanent 10DL (58 g) mixed 1:2 with<br />
Demi-Permanent Developer 6V on the<br />
mid-lengths<br />
Demi-Permanent 10SS (58 g) mixed 1:2<br />
with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V<br />
through the ends
"We asked<br />
ourselves;<br />
what do people<br />
not like about<br />
getting their<br />
hair done? And<br />
we've tried to<br />
tackle each of<br />
those things,<br />
one by one"<br />
The new Hershesons salon in<br />
London’s Fitzrovia turns<br />
the traditional salon concept<br />
on its head. Creative HEAD<br />
gets an exclusive look<br />
80 CREATIVE HEAD
#Hershesons<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
81
82 CREATIVE HEAD
#Hershesons<br />
AFTER 26 YEARS in Conduit Street,<br />
Hershesons has moved. The new flagship<br />
in nearby Berners Street looks, feels and<br />
behaves like nothing you’ve ever seen before:<br />
a 5,000sq ft multi-functional, stylish space<br />
(‘salon’ no longer seems the right word) that<br />
combines hair shop and blow-dry bar with<br />
‘best in class’ beauty services, as well as<br />
hangout cafe, work and social space. Once<br />
inside, why would anyone ever want to leave?<br />
“The old salon model is dead,” says creative<br />
director Luke Hersheson, who spent 12<br />
months working on the concept alongside<br />
design house gpstudio and architect<br />
Racheline Michaels. “Salons are no longer in<br />
tune with how people live their lives. So this<br />
is not a traditional salon – it’s a beauty space,<br />
a work space and a social space, wrapped into<br />
one. Customers can pick the services they<br />
want according to their needs and their time<br />
frame. Or she can just hang out and have a<br />
coffee. She can nip in for express services and<br />
work at the same time, or plant herself with<br />
us all day and have every treatment we offer,<br />
back-to-back. It’s a space that is built around<br />
our customer. It’s all about her and fitting in<br />
with her life.”<br />
Hair is, of course, what Hershesons is known<br />
for, and the cut, colour and styling services on<br />
offer are world-class, but even here there are<br />
details that break with the norm. The mirrors<br />
are retractable, for example, so clients don’t<br />
have to look at themselves while their colour<br />
processes; gowns, styled like dressing gowns,<br />
aren’t put on at reception – the stylist greets<br />
the client first so they can see what they’re<br />
wearing and make an informed judgment<br />
on lifestyle and personality. Not only that,<br />
clients get to sit where they want, like in a<br />
restaurant, rather than seats being arranged<br />
into cutting and colour sections.<br />
Speaking of restaurants, the new food and<br />
drink offering at Hershesons is another tour<br />
de force – a sunny cafe space at the front of<br />
the salon run by East London eatery Sans<br />
Pere offers a menu of healthy, wholesome<br />
treats alongside some seriously good coffee.<br />
The addition of Sans Pere elevates Hershesons<br />
into a day trip destination – a place where you<br />
can while away an afternoon with a freshly<br />
baked croissant after a blow-dry.<br />
“No-one ‘needs’ a handmade tartelette or a<br />
freshly filled matcha choux,” says Sans Pere<br />
founder Barney Goff. “But then, Sans Pere<br />
at Hershesons is not about necessity, nor is it<br />
about hedonism. It’s a place where you can<br />
enjoy life’s pleasures.”<br />
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Detail-obsessed Luke’s thoughtful touches<br />
mean that hanging out at Hershesons is<br />
positively encouraged: there are little nooks<br />
in which to chill or spend time on your<br />
laptop; power points to charge your phone are<br />
everywhere; there’s an abundance of plants<br />
(great for relaxation) and also ceramics from<br />
young, up-and-coming designers (great for<br />
inspiration); and an entire wall covered in<br />
Luke’s tear sheets (great for gazing at in awe).<br />
The new Hershesons is so much more<br />
than a place to go and get your hair cut. In<br />
a ground-breaking move, Luke has paired<br />
up with some stand-out independent beauty<br />
brands – Sunday Riley offers facials (a global<br />
coup); there’s a DryBy nail bar, the people for<br />
subtle nail art and long-lasting manicures<br />
and pedicures; Ministry of Waxing; Dr<br />
Barbara Sturm, for non-surgical cosmetic<br />
treatments; light therapy by The Light<br />
Salon; and brows by Suman Brows – to offer<br />
customers a 360-degree approach to their<br />
salon experience.<br />
“We wanted to bring in other brands that<br />
are really great at what they do,” explains<br />
Luke. “It was about finding other owner-run<br />
businesses to host that clients will want to<br />
visit in their own right, not just as add-ons.”<br />
The result feels like a wonderfully fresh<br />
and modern creative collaboration that<br />
buzzes with activity and positivity.<br />
“The vibe is of fun, interesting things going<br />
on all the time,” says Luke. “It’s not lots of<br />
people working in rows like in a traditional<br />
salon. By mixing things up and putting<br />
things in different and unexpected places,<br />
it completely changes the client experience.<br />
It’s interesting and it totally removes the<br />
intimidation factor.”<br />
Staff adore the new-look Hershesons, too.<br />
“They love that every chair has a full set<br />
of equipment, so they can work anywhere<br />
and everywhere – and they particularly<br />
love that it’s all on one floor,” says Luke.<br />
“Now colourists and stylists work together<br />
collaboratively, which creates a fantastic<br />
energy around the space.”<br />
Even the assistants’ uniforms have had an<br />
upgrade – gone are the old black uniforms;<br />
in come Reebok trainers and stripy J Brand<br />
tops, with denim jumpsuits on order.<br />
“If we were going to make a move, then<br />
it had to be to something considerably<br />
different,” says Luke. “When we found the<br />
space with this impressive glass frontage<br />
and everything on one floor, we just thought,<br />
let’s start from scratch.” Job done.
#Hershesons<br />
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Take a<br />
tour...<br />
Beauty brands are out on the<br />
floor alongside the hair team<br />
Good, strong coffee<br />
by Sans Pere<br />
Bathroom<br />
wallpaper<br />
by House of<br />
Hackney<br />
Plants and ceramic<br />
pieces create a restful<br />
atmosphere<br />
A stunning blue<br />
in the backwash<br />
area. Wherever<br />
you go, there are<br />
little surprises<br />
– like walking<br />
around your<br />
home, from room<br />
to room<br />
86
The mirrors, ever-so-slightly<br />
tilted for a more flattering<br />
reflection, are retractable<br />
#Hershesons<br />
The assistant team<br />
now dresses in<br />
J Brand and Reebok<br />
The office – situated at the rear of the space<br />
We did a lot of work on the<br />
lighting – everything’s dimmable<br />
via an app<br />
The new logo –<br />
designed by ACNE<br />
Relaxing spaces<br />
to while away<br />
the day<br />
CREATIVE HEAD<br />
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TWO<br />
88<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
TRIBES<br />
AFTER A MEETING OF MINDS AT THE COTERIE YEARS AGO, IT LIST VISIONARY 2017<br />
WINNER, CASEY COLEMAN, AND 2018 IT LIST FASHIONISTA FINALIST, JODIE AUSTEN, HAVE<br />
COLLABORATED TO EXPLORE CLASSIC STYLES AND THE CONTRAST BETWEEN EDITORIAL<br />
AND AVANT-GARDE, EXCLUSIVELY FOR CREATIVE HEAD. WELCOME TO NICE TO NICHE YOU<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEL BURNETT<br />
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90<br />
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AVANT-GARDE HAIR Casey Coleman. EDITORIAL HAIR Jodie Austen. MAKE-UP Gemma Howell. STYLING Claire Younger. MODELS Niamh Gray at<br />
Profile Models, Sophie Fisher at Established Models, Ceci Zhang at Mosaic Models, Marketa Figeczka. CONTRIBUTING BRAND Evo Hair at Dowal Walker PR.<br />
LOCATION Haus of Brooks in Bexhill. CREATIVE DIRECTION Jodie Austen. ART DIRECTION Lel Burnett. EXECUTIVE PRODUCER Joseph Taylor.<br />
2017<br />
2017<br />
WINNER<br />
THE VISIONARY<br />
TO SEE more from this shoot,<br />
visit creativeheadmag.com<br />
CREATIVE HEAD 91
A new<br />
England<br />
With a fashion-forward and genderfree<br />
approach, Simon Webster Hair<br />
focuses on accessibility and its Brighton<br />
community, using clients as models.<br />
This technical collection is inspired by<br />
Simon’s interest in subcultures and the<br />
brand’s tagline – style-music-fashion<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNY MCCRACKEN<br />
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HAIR SWH Team, Simon Webster Hair. MAKE-UP Xoë Kingsley.<br />
STYLING Greg Bailey. STUDIO The Brighton Studio<br />
SEE the shoot come alive<br />
at creativeheadmag.com<br />
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Scene<br />
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!<br />
Sophie Qureshi<br />
Rebecca Chang<br />
Smash<br />
& GRAB<br />
FRESH, RELEVANT and different – a genius onstage pairing<br />
of current It List It Girl Rebecca Chang and Most Wanted Hair<br />
Trend winner Sam Burnett delivered a creative tour de force at<br />
our 2018 Coterie: In Session event. The two stylists shared not<br />
only techniques and inspirational insight from their experiences<br />
at shoots and shows, but also perfectly demonstrated today’s<br />
easy fluidity between the salon and session worlds. Hosted by<br />
journalist and beauty expert Sophie Qureshi and taking place<br />
in an East London photographic studio, the event had a real<br />
on-set feel, with a packed-out audience able to see every detail.<br />
The crowd watched closely as Sam and Rebecca demonstrated<br />
everything from ’70s-inspired volume and texture to braiding<br />
techniques picked up from Eugene Souleiman, while Sophie<br />
fired questions about the opportunities and challenges of life<br />
backstage. They even rose to an on-the-spot challenge, with just<br />
six minutes to whip up a look, and the audience voted for their<br />
favourite creation with a show of hands. Both artists smashed<br />
it! And everyone left with a goody bag from sponsor BaByliss<br />
PRO, containing the tool-of-the-moment – a 38mm Titanium<br />
Expression tong.<br />
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Sam Burnett
START<br />
YOUR<br />
engines…<br />
UK finalist David Rae<br />
WITH ITS GAUDÍ-DESIGNED buildings and long, tree-lined<br />
streets that lead down to the sea, Barcelona is a hub of artistic<br />
expression. So it’s no surprise that the city was picked to host the<br />
10th annual Style Masters International Awards. Thousands of<br />
hairdressers gathered to support their countries at the event, which<br />
was hosted by Miquel García, global executive vice-president for<br />
artistic and education at Revlon Professional. The show saw live<br />
styling from finalists, with David Rae representing the UK and<br />
Maria Montes Campal of Spain taking home the trophy. Sam Wall<br />
flew the flag for the UK in the American Crew All-Star Challenge,<br />
but was pipped to the post by Vitaly Pimenov of Russia. And there<br />
was no shortage of inspiration too – from the aquatic beauty of<br />
the Eksperience segment and the launch of Glamsquad to the<br />
raw power and sharp barbering of the American Crew show, these<br />
hairdressers proved that they are truly masters of their craft.<br />
Debra Perelman, chief executive of Revlon<br />
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And the winners are…<br />
AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE:<br />
Vitaly Pimenov, Russia<br />
GLOBAL STYLE MASTERS AWARD:<br />
Maria Montes Campal, Spain<br />
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COLOR AWARD:<br />
Natalya Zheglova, Russia<br />
BEST STAGE PERFORMANCE AWARD:<br />
Mandy Lau Hoi Man, Hong Kong<br />
YOUNG TALENT AWARD:<br />
Jeneta Shekhovich, Russia<br />
Mandy Lau Hoi Man<br />
Natalya Zheglova<br />
Maria Montes Campal<br />
David Raccuglia (left)<br />
and Vitaly Pimenov<br />
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Jessica Bumpus<br />
From left: Bora Esen, Colin Petrie<br />
and Mark Maciver<br />
Robin James<br />
COTERIE<br />
crew<br />
WITH AN ELECTRIC atmosphere and<br />
packed-out room, The Coterie returned to<br />
London to deliberate on the ever-evolving male<br />
market and boy, was it an interesting evening.<br />
Freelance journalist and digital editor Jessica<br />
Bumpus, fresh from London Fashion Week<br />
Men’s, kicked off proceedings outlining the key<br />
trends from the S/S19 shows as well as shifts<br />
in the male aesthetic over the 12 seasons since<br />
the event’s inception. It was then time to get up<br />
close and personal with Robin James, founder<br />
of men’s style blog Man for Himself. Recently<br />
undertaking a barbering course himself,<br />
Robin spoke of plans to offer a studio space to<br />
barbers to give them a platform on his channel.<br />
Wrapping up proceedings was a trio of expert<br />
barbers; Mark Maciver AKA SliderCuts, Colin<br />
Petrie of Hard Grind, and Bora Esen, founder<br />
of Porters Barbers. A clear take home from<br />
the panel was offering ‘more’ and how barber<br />
shops aren’t only focused on the haircut, but<br />
also the experience and how the person sitting<br />
in their chair feels. Everyone left armed with<br />
goodies from sponsor, American Crew. Sorted!<br />
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I love that<br />
everything I<br />
need to run<br />
my business<br />
is in Timely<br />
DARIO COTRONEO<br />
Dario Salon, Sydney<br />
Kathryn Dartnell<br />
THE<br />
young<br />
ones<br />
FOR THE PAST 18 years, L’Oréal Professionnel has<br />
partnered with Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design<br />
to nurture new talent and celebrate the key links between<br />
fashion and hairdressing. This year, the L’Oréal Professionnel<br />
Portfolio Session Team, led by Kathryn Dartnell of<br />
Haringtons, returned to Granary Square to style the hair for<br />
the BA Fashion Show. The show saw graduates’ collections<br />
complemented by slick wet looks and intricate mini buns, as<br />
the future of fashion unfolded on the catwalk. Saloni Chotai,<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio manager, presented the<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel Designer of the Year Award to Paolina<br />
Russo; while Simon Valer Decef, René Scheibenbauer and<br />
Matilda Soderberg were runners up. The judging panel was<br />
made up of some of fashion’s great minds, including designer<br />
Richard Quinn, stylist Ibrahim Kamara and Central Saint<br />
Martins’ BA Fashion course leader, Sarah Gresty. It’s a brave<br />
new world out there.<br />
Find out why over<br />
32,000 stylists and<br />
therapists worldwide<br />
love Timely.<br />
gettimely.com<br />
CREATIVE HEAD
#LCT18 model @lorealpro<br />
#lorealprouk<br />
#BehindTheScenes prepping<br />
for our Trevor Sorbie<br />
brand shoot<br />
Waving up a<br />
storm on stage<br />
My dot-to-dot look<br />
In the<br />
frame<br />
Trevor Sorbie’s Vera Mai Ha (@mai_ha2)<br />
– the new L’Oréal Colour Trophy joint<br />
winner – snaps away<br />
Creating a look with tracing<br />
paper, inspired by designer<br />
Iris Van Herpen<br />
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us<br />
a snapshot of your world? Tweet<br />
us at @creativeheadmag now!<br />
On stage in Zurich<br />
creating dot-to-dot<br />
One of my favourite looks<br />
from our Unified collection<br />
Our winning #LCT18 look<br />
The right angle<br />
That winning feeling!<br />
#LCT18<br />
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