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A trip down the Bayou of Life in the Crescent City as seen through the eyes of a lifelong N'Awlins resident …

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– Since 1944 –<br />

Living On<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />

T I M E<br />

Passing Moments As Seen From Life’s Bayou<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

First Edition<br />

~ 2018 ~


Copyright Information<br />

____________________________________<br />

This is a work of fiction. Any references to historical events, real people,<br />

or real locales are used fictitiously. Other names, characters, places, and<br />

incidents are the product of the author’s imagination, and any resemblance<br />

to actual events, locales, or persons, living or dead, is entirely coincidental.<br />

Copyright 2018 Richard A. Caire<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored<br />

in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means –<br />

electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without<br />

the prior written permission of the author. The only exception is brief<br />

quotations in critical articles or reviews.<br />

First Edition: 2018<br />

ISBN-13: 978-1720365907<br />

ISBN-10: 1720365903<br />

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1<br />

RAC<br />

Printed in the United States of America


Living On <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>Time</strong><br />

________________________________________________________<br />

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

EDITOR<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

WRITER<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

LEAD DESIGNER<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

GRAPHICS EDITOR<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

PHOTO ARTIST<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

GRAPHIC ARTIST<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

COVER ART & DESIGN<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

EDITORIAL MANAGER<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

CONSULTANT<br />

Allan Lane Casteix<br />

COPY EDITOR<br />

Richard A. Caire<br />

INTERNS<br />

Needed Only When In-Hospital<br />

SPECIAL THANKS<br />

Adelard A. Caire, Rita McCabe Caire, Douglas Caire, Mary Lee McLean,<br />

Megan Silea, Allan Lane Casteix, C. Samuel Hopkins, Linda Craig


Table Of Contents<br />

_________________________________________________________<br />

(<br />

The French Quarter ............................................001<br />

The CBD & Mid-City Area .......................................025<br />

Cemeteries ...................................................055<br />

Uptown & Carrollton ...........................................097<br />

Lake Pontchartrain & West End ..................................121<br />

Metairie & Jefferson Parish ......................................149<br />

About the Author ..............................................186<br />

The Mighty PimpMobile ........................................187<br />

To Be Continued ...............................................189


Prologue & Introduction<br />

Shown here is a window display for an antiques shop on<br />

Magazine Street in Uptown <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. Once upon a time,<br />

each was bright and shiny, and did useful things. Now they’re only<br />

‘vapors of history’ that make people say ‘Oh, how nice!,’ while serving<br />

no purpose higher than colorful knick-knacks or ‘accent pieces’ on<br />

a mantel shelf or coffee table. They’re ‘the good stuff ’ that kids find<br />

after a flood. That’s not a criticism, tho’ — it’s just the way life works.<br />

What’s innovative, new, and useful today eventually comes to rest on<br />

the banks of Life’s Bayou, where each becomes its own oxbow item.<br />

All these pieces and their places had their moments – now they’re<br />

gone. The events presented herein may be likened to images locked<br />

in amber, their contents preserved forever in time. They’re as brief<br />

as the sunrise that glowed, then vanished; the unexpected moment<br />

of magic which, tho’ gone, remains locked in memory; or those<br />

dissimilar objects and events which once created the juxtaposed linkages<br />

that have now dissolved. These magical events happen everywhere –<br />

they’re just more special when they happen in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />

I’m glad you’ve joined me on this trip down Life’s Bayou.<br />

Let’s get in our pirogue and push off from the bank …<br />

Allons!


7


The French Quarter<br />

__________________________________________<br />

If it’s not here, you don’t need it.<br />

001


French Quarter Morning – 17 September 1991<br />

This morning in this alleyway brought to mind many possibilities<br />

for a movie script. Some were mundane; others, quite dramatic.<br />

The key to the green door always unlocked a mystery. A completely<br />

unlinked association (except in the pathways of memory) is that a local artist<br />

with the stage name of Eskew Reeder (pron. ‘SQ Rita’) once had a hit<br />

tune called ‘Green Door.’ His stage persona and costumes would later<br />

become the model for one Richard Penniman (a/k/a ‘Little Richard’).<br />

(The history is strong in this one, Luke.)<br />

When people outside <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> think of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, their<br />

first thought is usually of the French Quarter. If they’ve never been<br />

to the city, they don’t know about Café du Monde or Morning Call.<br />

That means they also don’t know about the simple joy of beignets<br />

(say ‘ben-YAYs’) with coffee and chicory. They also don’t know those<br />

so-close-to-being-fun moments trying to direct that finely powdered<br />

confectioner’s sugar onto the beignets. It’s more fun on a windy day.<br />

(Pro tip: Don’t wear dark clothing.)<br />

Interesting though all of that may be, it’s not part of this scene.<br />

It would have been nice to ask the residents what they knew about<br />

this building and its past, but that would have meant waking them.<br />

Better to just appreciate the moment.<br />

The Zeitgeist was strong that morning in this alleyway, and sights<br />

like this are what make the French Quarter special. You won’t find this<br />

kinda stuff on any other Bayou. Stick with me and I’ll tell you a bit more<br />

… let’s begin our journey, yes?<br />

002


003


Spider Lilies – 11 December 1991<br />

In a small area next to Jax Brewery was something I can only<br />

describe as an ‘accidental garden.’ It may have been planted and tended,<br />

but it gave the appearance of being a collection of plant life that arose<br />

spontaneously in place.<br />

At first, I didn’t see much to the arrangement. Looking more closely,<br />

it became obvious this was a Study In Life and Death in one grouping.<br />

The lily at far left was in full bloom; the one at top right was in its dotage,<br />

and the one at bottom right was past its ‘Best When Used By’ date. That<br />

created an entirely different context for what, on its surface, appeared to<br />

be nothing more than a few accidental flowers growing next to a former<br />

brewery in the French Quarter.<br />

The light was low, and provided the conditions for a triple exposure.<br />

This happens only in our imagination, yes? Yes, but …<br />

004


005


Jackson Square – 12 December 1991<br />

This was the vision that greeted me on a pre-Christmas visit to<br />

the French Quarter to view the premier iconographic elements there,<br />

St. Louis Cathedral and Andrew Jackson on his horse. Both are woven<br />

deeply into the threads of the city’s history. It’s probably not possible<br />

to grow up in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> and remain unaware of these works.<br />

Even if it’s just a quick visit to the Quarter, you’ll see them as you look for<br />

a parking spot. If you’re at Morning Call or Café du Monde,<br />

you’ll see them. Walking around Jackson Square admiring the<br />

work of the local artists, or sitting to have your caricature done?<br />

You’ll see them. They’re the subjects of paintings, drawings, jewelry,<br />

photography, or any other medium you choose. They’ve been done –<br />

and overdone. They’ll continue to be done. They’re on the list of things<br />

you take for granted when you grow up with them.<br />

Even though The Presbytère and The Cabildo bracket<br />

St. Louis Cathedral, they don’t demand the same degree of attention.<br />

One reason may be that their size isn’t as imposing. The more relevant<br />

reason may be that the Cathedral has deeper, more personal, roots<br />

in the community. People don’t get married at The Cabildo or at<br />

The Presbytère, but they do at the Cathedral. Christenings take place<br />

there, as does the Red Mass for the legal community. Jackson Square.<br />

View once, remember many …<br />

006


007


Assemblage des Antiquités – 11 December 1991<br />

On a side street next to what used to be Jax Brewery (a/k/a ‘Jackson<br />

Brewing Company’) was a long line of what are generally referred<br />

to as ‘antique’ automobiles. I imagine they were part of a parade or<br />

celebration later that day. Since they were parked, I didn’t need to<br />

worry that they’d move, or complain about the sun being in their eyes.<br />

Jax Brewery by this time was no longer the brewery that I knew and<br />

remembered from the days when I played music in the French Quarter.<br />

I could walk to my car after the club closed and take in the ‘smellstream’<br />

floating on the morning air. The mixed aromas of French bread baking,<br />

coffee roasting, and the unmistakable smell of beer brewing commingle<br />

to establish an olfactory memory that stays with you long beyond the<br />

time of its creation.<br />

The brewery which once operated at this location had become<br />

a retail mall. Tower Records and Bookstar now occupied the space where<br />

once beer-making equipment stood. Ice cream was dispensed from cold<br />

marble slabs, and sandwiches were eaten in the shadows of history.<br />

Joni Mitchell anticipated things like this early on when she wrote the line:<br />

“You don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone … ”<br />

008


009


Rex – 01 September 1991<br />

Remember ‘Silver Streak,’ with Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor?<br />

Yes? Good. Remember the scene where they walk into the cell and<br />

Richard Pryor tells everyone that “We bad. That’s right. We bad.”<br />

In a nutshell, that’s the attitude presented by Rex, The King of Chairs.<br />

He rules the domain of this antique shop and his small square of<br />

sidewalk. The cow skull is just for good measure in case his status is<br />

challenged by The Lesser Chairs.<br />

True, it could be argued this is only a big chair with a cow skull<br />

on its seat, and it needs a bit of ‘fixin’ up.’ That would be right, but<br />

it wouldn’t be N’Awlins … That. Would. Be. Boring.<br />

The chair and skull create a sense of ‘otherworldliness’ designed<br />

to make viewers curious enough to become enchanted by other items<br />

on display outside or, if they’re brave enough – beyond the door, in the<br />

Mystical Depths Of The Inky Shadows. That’s where the magic lives.<br />

010


011


A Perfectly Good Baby – 03 July 1990<br />

What was your first response when you viewed this image?<br />

Mmm-hmm. That’s what I suspected. It’s not the kind of thing<br />

you see every day, is it? It’s the sort of juxtaposition that creates a<br />

‘Whaaa... ?’ response. At first glance, it looks like someone has abandoned<br />

a baby in its stroller, yes? Yes.<br />

This July day, I had lunch at Buster’s restaurant and was walking off<br />

a plate of red beans, rice, and sausage. Buster was a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> legend<br />

and a stand-up kind of guy. People down on their luck could walk into<br />

his restaurant and say to him ‘Buster, I’m hungry, but I don’t have no money’ –<br />

he’d fix them a plate of food and tell them to ‘catch me up later.’<br />

An apocryphal Buster legend tells of the time he was attacked from<br />

behind and struck in the head with a hatchet while getting in his car<br />

one night. He put a beatdown on the perp, bloodied him up, put him<br />

in the back seat, drove him to the French Quarter police station,<br />

and drove himself to Charity Hospital – with the hatchet in his head<br />

the entire time. True or not, it’s a great story.<br />

Back to the baby carriage: Walking closer and doing a quick<br />

check to ensure there was no ‘Baby On Board,’ I concluded it had<br />

been abandoned by a homeless person. The blue plastic bag held<br />

a random collection of unwashed clothing and other paraphernalia<br />

(no, not that kind of paraphernalia). Having taken a few images for<br />

posterity, it became necessary to resume the Post-Prandial Walkabout<br />

so the meal and its calories didn’t relocate to the waistband …<br />

012


013


St. Louis Cathedral & Presbytère<br />

– 21 November 1991 –<br />

Flanking the opposite side of St. Louis Cathedral from the Cabildo<br />

and fronting on Jackson Square is the Presbytère. It dates to the same<br />

reconstruction period as the Cabildo, which followed the fires of 1788<br />

and 1794. The Presbytère was designed to be a virtual visual and<br />

architectural ‘bookend’ to the Cabildo.<br />

Although the structure was originally known as the Casa Curial<br />

(Ecclesiastical House), its name derives from the fact that it was constructed<br />

on the site of the residence, or presbytère, of the Capuchin monks.<br />

The address of The Presbytère is 751 Chartres St., Jackson Square.<br />

If you want to go inside, it’ll set you back $6 for adults and $5 for seniors,<br />

students, and active military. Children 12 and under are admitted free.<br />

A day like this is perfect for visiting Jackson Square, The Cabildo,<br />

and The Presbytère. Look closely at the items near the cast iron fencing<br />

and you’ll see the materials set out by an artist to be ready for the<br />

arrival of the crowd. When you need a break, there’s coffee and chicory<br />

not too far away … I think you’ll find some beignets there, too.<br />

014


015


Exact Change Only – 15 August 1991<br />

Canal Street and Carondelet Street. A rainy afternoon. Hot, muggy,<br />

sweaty, and messy. The street car you’ve been waiting for finally arrives.<br />

You look forward to boarding, to getting out of the constant drizzle.<br />

You need to have Exact Change Only. That’s NORTA’s rule. NORTA<br />

is the abbreviation for the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Regional Transit Authority.<br />

They set the rules; they decide who rides – and doesn’t. The young<br />

couple counting their change before boarding may be among the lucky<br />

ones. They may get to board the streetcar. They may be able to sit for<br />

a while until they arrive at their stop. They may be able to relax a bit –<br />

but that all depends on whether they have Exact Change Only.<br />

Out of view in this image is a display window for what was once<br />

one of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>’ larger and better-known booksellers, Siler’s Books.<br />

Its windows featured nicely-lettered signs next to displays of books.<br />

There was only once anything in their window was out of character. It<br />

was a hand-lettered sign displayed on an easel; quite well-done, with a<br />

steady hand on the brush. There was only one problem with it, and it<br />

caused it to miss its target audience. What was that problem, you ask?<br />

The sign’s simple message told viewers to ‘Learn To Read.’<br />

016


017


The Assistant Operator – 07 November 1991<br />

Streetcars. Ya love ’em or ya hate ’em. They rock and sway from<br />

side to side and go a-trundlin’ down the tracks, making a dull metallic<br />

‘click-click’ as steel wheels roll over steel rails. Occasionally, a driver<br />

thinks he can beat a streetcar to the crossing – and loses. Best of all is the<br />

whiff of ozone every time the catenary goes ‘POOF!’ I know – ozone is<br />

a poisonous gas. Your point is … ? It’s part of the Streetcar Experience.<br />

You know the drill: “Ya pays yer money and takes yer chances.” Remember to<br />

ask for a transfer when you board, okay?<br />

This particular pre-Christmas evening near the Riverwalk saw<br />

the streetcar known as ‘The Red Lady’ parked at its station.<br />

Never having imaged this car, its immobility was welcome.<br />

A lack of passengers was more than I could have hoped for.<br />

The interior of the car was open and visible, with no riders blocking the<br />

view. The only occupants of the ‘Red Lady’ were its Operator and a<br />

civilian ‘advisor,’ who was quite unshy about providing advice that was,<br />

more than likely, unneeded. I didn’t intrude on their training session.<br />

Even tho’ it was still a month and change away from Christmas,<br />

it was the right time to be at the Riverwalk. I would have regretted<br />

missing this opportunity.<br />

018


019


French Market Christmas Garlic<br />

– 12 December 1992 –<br />

A December morning at the French Market in 1992 was made<br />

just a little bit brighter by the sight of netting filled with garlic pods<br />

and tied off with a bright red Christmas ribbon. Who wouldn’t like to<br />

find a stockingful of garlic with their name on it? Why, garlic is good<br />

with everything. Use it in oyster dressing. Put some in turkey soup made<br />

the day after Christmas. Cut off the tops and drizzle a bit of olive oil<br />

over the pods before sprinkling them with salt and putting ’em in the<br />

oven to slow-roast. Buy some right now. Buy plenty – then buy about<br />

a half-dozen more as gifts. It’s the gift that keeps on giving, isn’t it?<br />

Christmas garlic – it’s another of the unique <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> sights you’ll<br />

never see anywhere else.<br />

020


021


Le Chat Noir – 12 November 1991<br />

While not strictly in the French Quarter, the Bywater District of<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> is, as it’s said, ‘close enough for jazz.’<br />

I was collecting images in the Bywater of subjects to be posted<br />

on a now-defunct site called DeadSofa.com. It featured pictures of sofas<br />

and other furnitures, and told fictional tales about how they became<br />

‘street dwellers.’ Exactly where this house was located is lost to memory,<br />

but that’s irrelevant. What’s relevant is the unanticipated entry of<br />

Le Chat Noir. That day, the old phrase ‘If it wasn’t for bad luck,<br />

I wouldn’t have no luck at all’ was far off in the distance.<br />

Almost ready to press the shutter, what to my wondering eyes should<br />

appear but Le Chat Noir. I don’t know where this cat came from,<br />

but it had added just the right amount of ‘creep factor’ and implied<br />

‘I Got Your Bad Luck Right Here.’<br />

It made old blues lyrics go on ‘autoplay,’ where a line like<br />

‘I got a black cat bone’ precedes ‘I got a mojo too’ before going on to brag<br />

about having a ‘Black John the Conqueroo’ and finishes by telling the listener<br />

‘I’m gonna mess with you.’ Where else but in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> would a little<br />

black cat cause that kind of response? See how creepy Life’s Bayou can<br />

be if you get out of the boat … ? Stay in the boat. Stay. In. The. Boat …<br />

and remember to press the shutter release, okay?<br />

022


023


024


The CBD & Mid-City<br />

__________________________________________<br />

Where Excitement Rules The Day<br />

025


Bus Stop Truth – 31 May1999<br />

Such a nice day it was … slightly cool, light breeze, blue skies,<br />

feathery clouds – what’s not to like? On my way down the Bayou to<br />

the French Quarter, I noticed this innocuous yet insightful little sign<br />

speaking Bus Stop Truth. Look at the construction of the bus stop.<br />

There’s nothing to keep vehicles from splashing water and everything<br />

it contains onto the waiting riders. That’s what Tide’s talkin’ about.<br />

Simple. Direct. Buy Tide. You’ll need it. You know you will.<br />

After a suitable amount of time spent admiring a simple message<br />

simply delivered, I composed the image. The background was a perfect<br />

complement to the day, the sign, and the lighting.<br />

The tall building in the background of this image was called<br />

the Plaza Tower on Howard Avenue. Conceived by the man<br />

referred to as the Father of Downtown Development, Sam J. Recile,<br />

Plaza Tower opened in 1969, becoming the tallest building in the<br />

state of Louisiana. Forty-five stories tall and designed by the architect<br />

Leonard Spangenberg, Jr., it rose to a height of five hundred and ten<br />

feet. That, in turn, required a change in the zoning height restrictions<br />

in order to allow its construction. The original plans called for it to<br />

house offices, penthouse apartments, restaurants, a bank, a health club,<br />

a heliport, and (wait for it) … an observation deck.<br />

So far as I’m aware, the structure is still in place, but it’s now called<br />

Crescent City Towers. Developer Joe Jaeger bought the building in<br />

2014, but no plans for redevelopment have been revealed yet.<br />

This simple little bus stop sign couldn’t have asked for a better or<br />

more historic background element … it just works.<br />

026


027


The Dog-Faced Boy – 21 June 1993<br />

This was in the side yard of a shop on Esplanade Avenue where<br />

I got my hair cut. After a few visits, I got to know Jules, the proprietor,<br />

and asked about the Dog-Faced Boy. It was originally a jockey statue,<br />

but that was no longer true. It had now become a ‘VouDou.’<br />

Jules said he originally placed it in the yard as an intact jockey statue.<br />

After a few days, its head was knocked off. He reattached it. The next<br />

day, it was off again. He reattached it. The following day was a repeat<br />

of the day before – head in the grass, no longer attached.<br />

Now Jules upped his game and moved into Unknown Territory.<br />

He attached a dog skull to the jockey’s body. The next day, the statue<br />

was intact. The day after that also showed no damage. The statue was<br />

never touched again once Jules attached the ‘Big Magic’ dog skull.<br />

If you need strong ju-ju to keep away the baddies, find yourself<br />

a handy dog skull. Attach it just like this. Think how much scarier this<br />

would have been with a Rottweiler skull starin’ down the bad guys …<br />

028


029


Drunk Callin’ – 26 June 1995<br />

Yeah, you right. Who hasn’t had the dubious pleasure of being<br />

awakened in the wee hours of the morning by the Drunk Caller?<br />

Being ‘drunk-dialed’ by a complete stranger is bad enough, but you can<br />

put a ‘Bayou Blasting’ on a stranger. You might be a bit more diplomatic<br />

if it’s someone you know.<br />

This now-‘retro’ pay phone on North Broad Street displayed the<br />

Primary Indicator someone had been Drunk Callin’ from the location<br />

– an empty beer bottle. It could have been put there by someone other<br />

than the caller, but I wouldn’t bet on that.<br />

There’s a quasi-redemptive quality to this booth, tho’ – it’s relatively<br />

clean. There’s no grafitti, no ‘For A Good <strong>Time</strong>’ numbers, and no rude<br />

comments advising complete strangers about where to go and what to<br />

do with certain body parts.<br />

The only important question left unsolved in this case is the one of:<br />

Was that beer a Dixie or a Falstaff … ?<br />

030


031


Lee’s Hair Styles – 08 November 1998<br />

You want to know what those white ‘X’ marks on the glass are,<br />

don’tcha? Those were left behind when the duct tape was removed after<br />

a hurricane. Which hurricane? Don’t know; probably one of too<br />

many to count. Evidently no damage was done because the glass and<br />

the security tape are still intact, and so are the burglar bars and gridding.<br />

If you look closely, a speaker and what may be an early version of<br />

a security camera are above the sign. The words on the window say<br />

there are ‘Barbers On Duty.’ There may be, but the place looked pretty<br />

tight to me. There are stretches of Life’s Bayou where security is needed.<br />

Not too far away from Lee’s is a place most <strong>New</strong> Orleanians<br />

‘of a certain age’ will remember: ‘Seafood City’ at 1826 North Broad.<br />

Lee’s, like Seafood City, wasn’t ‘very pretty,’ but both got the job done.<br />

It’d be great to have some crawfish about now …<br />

032


033


Bad Dog – 08 November 1998<br />

A few blocks further away from the ‘Drunk Calling’ phone is this<br />

welcoming communications device conveniently located next to a sign<br />

warning the caller of a Bad Dog. No indication of the species or the size<br />

– just that the dog is ‘Bad.’ Ambiguity is sometimes a good thing.<br />

Imagine, if you will, making a call to report a mugging, or to<br />

whisper ‘sweet nothings’ in someone’s ear, the whole time dealing with<br />

the background sound of an animal whose sole reason for existing is to<br />

threaten your existence. Okay, that’s a bit dramatic, maybe even over the<br />

top, but hey, it could happen! After all, no one will ever take a ‘Bad Dog’<br />

sign seriously if they only see an ‘attack chihuahua’ barking at ’em.<br />

There’s also the possibility there’s no dog at all. The sign could<br />

have been put there in order to make annoying people think twice<br />

about using the phone booth as their convenient all-day loiter spot.<br />

Could this be street-level ‘PsyOps’ … ? We’ll never know.<br />

034


035


If The Oyster Won’t Come To Baby<br />

– 12 September 1989 –<br />

At 2000 hours on a Saturday, 26 September 2015, The Pearl Oyster<br />

Bar & Restaurant, at 119 St. Charles Avenue, <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, LA closed.<br />

No drama, no fanfare. Just POOF! Gone …<br />

As I stood in front of The Pearl Oyster Bar and Restaurant this<br />

day, The Pearl’s unforgettable sign still brightened this section of the<br />

Bayou on St. Charles Avenue near Canal Street. As I was about to press<br />

the shutter release, what appeared but a man and his little boy walking<br />

toward The Pearl. I still wonder if that little boy chowed down on his<br />

first dozen ‘erstas’ with crackers, ketchup, horseradish, and lemon juice.<br />

My best memories of The Pearl are the times I ate there after playing<br />

music with Bat, Henri, Eddie, David, and Charlie. In later years, I’d stop<br />

there for a ‘breakfast po’boy’ and coffee on the way home after playing<br />

at the club on Bourbon Street.<br />

The Pearl’s traditional menu included staples like gumbo,<br />

crab cakes, and roast beef sandwiches – but it wasn’t until you ordered<br />

one of their hot pastrami sandwiches on rye with a dill pickle wedge –<br />

and a Barq’s root beer – that you appreciated what they did with food.<br />

Good night, Ms. Marie, wherever you are.<br />

036


037


Kolb’s – Memories of Fine Dining<br />

– 12 September 1989 –<br />

This is a ‘bookend’ to the previous image. After The Pearl,<br />

I moved over to frame up the sign at Kolb’s Restaurant, formerly the<br />

premier German restaurant in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. The original attraction<br />

was this sign, the boarded-up windows, and the light fixtures, with<br />

perspective leading to the Southern Savings building located, to use a<br />

term, ‘down da Bayou.’<br />

The gentleman with the cart had been pushing it in the street while<br />

I was framing up the shot. It was only as he drew nearer to Kolb’s and<br />

The Pearl that he moved his cart onto the sidewalk. That was probably<br />

a lot safer and a good deal easier than pushing it in the street.<br />

Kolb’s was well-known to most people in the city. This man was<br />

known only to himself. He may have been a regular at Ozanam Inn on<br />

Camp Street, or a new arrival in town from places unknown. Whatever<br />

his origin, he wheeled his worldly possessions in the shopping cart.<br />

There may be an analogy to be made between the boards at Kolb’s<br />

and the boarded-up opportunities leading to this man’s presence in <strong>New</strong><br />

<strong>Orleans</strong> that day. I can’t craft one. Sometimes the WordWell runs dry.<br />

This is one of those times.<br />

038


039


Canal Street – 13 June 1992<br />

This image began life as a ‘grab shot’ I took on my way to<br />

somewhere else in June of 1992. I took it to record a piece of the<br />

city I knew wouldn’t be there forever. You know what it’s like trying<br />

to remember what ‘used to be there’ once it’s gone, yes? Yes.<br />

This was taken as a ‘remember when’ memory-jogging image.<br />

Only later did I notice it was more than a ‘grab shot.’ In the<br />

background, almost unnoticed, was a pivot point in the city’s and<br />

the nation’s conjoined histories. The old Woolworth’s building had<br />

been the location for the first locally-organised lunch counter sit-in.<br />

Year: 1960. Month: September. Date: 9th. Location: Woolworth’s,<br />

1031 Canal Street at North Rampart Street. After a demonstration<br />

starting at 1030, it was shut down by a sit-in at the lunch counter<br />

at 1230. Fast forward: October, 2014 – the demolition of Woolworth’s<br />

took place to make way for a $70 million luxury apartment complex.<br />

I wonder if people in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> today still remember this<br />

Woolworth’s, its lunch counter, that ‘long ago and far away’ day,<br />

and the history that was played out then upon its stage.<br />

040


041


Every Panel Tells A Story, Don’t It?<br />

– 12 August 1994 –<br />

On the way home from downtown, the drive down Poydras Street<br />

took me directly in front of the former Maylie’s Restaurant. It opened in<br />

1876 as Maylie & Esparbe, Inc., making it one of the oldest restaurants<br />

in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. After Maylie’s closed, the building later became a<br />

Smith & Wollensky steakhouse which, in its turn, also closed.<br />

A wee bit of Maylie’s later history: After the restaurant’s main<br />

building fell victim to street widening in the late ’50s, all that was left<br />

was the two-story frame building, the bar, the dining room of sixty seats,<br />

and the first floor kitchen. The image at right shows a small detail<br />

of how it looked about eleven years after its closure in 1983.<br />

The ‘hurricane only’ panels were now at the end of their useful life.<br />

The most interesting parts of the exterior were the separate ‘panel’<br />

areas created by the windowing, the transoms, and the lamp glass.<br />

Since they provided ready-made frame segments, it was easy to create a<br />

‘two-fer.’ The ‘picture-in-picture’ paneling allowed insertion of many<br />

other images of the city – almost a reflection of the later life and times<br />

of Maylie’s over the years. Not exactly a one-to-one representation,<br />

but it’s all <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> in each panel. Life’s Bayou keeps on flowin’ …<br />

042


043


The Feasting – 05 March 1994<br />

Delgado Community College isn’t exactly what would be considered<br />

Mid-City or the CBD, but it’s close enough for government work.<br />

It sits across Marconi Drive from City Park on City Park Avenue,<br />

and it had this outside sculpture exhibition presented by its students.<br />

I don’t know what the design specs for this project were,<br />

but they appear to have given students pretty wide latitude. This piece,<br />

even while remaining a mystery, is one I really like. It has a great<br />

‘Rohrschach’ quality in the form of the ‘bird’ or ‘beast’ – whatever it’s<br />

supposed to be. The surface appears to have been crazed by fire, either<br />

naturally-occurring or artifically applied. It’s a great textural effect.<br />

The accompaniments (side dishes?) on the ‘table’ fit the mysterious<br />

mood created by the central ‘ju-ju’ figure. Any threads of commonality<br />

seem to have gone missing, but that’s not a problem. In any<br />

‘waking dream’ piece, logical linkage is always the first casualty.<br />

The student who created this had a keen eye – and an understanding of<br />

what it means to be from the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> stretch of the Bayou …<br />

044


045


Popp Fountain – 15 September 1992<br />

Designed by the Olmsted Brothers in the late 1920s, Popp Fountain<br />

was dedicated in 1934. Rebecca Grant Popp donated $25,000 for<br />

a memorial to honor her husband, John F. Popp. The WPA added the<br />

tile walkways and landscaping; the art deco fountainhead was designed<br />

by Enrique Alférez.<br />

By the 1970s, though, Popp Fountain and the surrounding area had<br />

been neglected for a long time, and it showed. The area was unfenced,<br />

and there was no water supply to the fountain. This is how it appeared<br />

in City Park in 1992. It wasn’t a pretty sight to behold, but there were<br />

still hints of its former beauty if you looked. That, however, all changed<br />

for the better with the passage of time.<br />

Popp Fountain in City Park underwent significant restoration, and<br />

the 12 acres around the fountain are now fenced in. The fountain’s<br />

waters now flow again, and the Arbor Room has been added.<br />

The outstanding renovation of Popp’s Fountain in City Park is one of<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>’ success stories – and it was done up very right.<br />

046


047


The Whole Nine Yards – 21 October 1992<br />

Imagine being the gunner standing at this window. Imagine the<br />

Focke-Wulf 190s or Me-109s coming at you, bright flashes flickering<br />

from wing guns and nose cannon. Imagine maneuvering your weapon<br />

in a space about six feet wide, with another gunner so close behind<br />

that you can touch him. Imagine doing all this wearing heavy clothing<br />

and gloves. It’s cold at 36,000 feet.<br />

Those were some of the thoughts I had looking through this window<br />

on a day with none of those threats. I’m still amazed it was so cramped.<br />

This air show was presented by the ‘Confederate Air Force’ (which was<br />

later changed to become the ‘Commemorative Air Force.’)<br />

The B-17 carried a ‘useful bombload’ at a service ceiling of 36,000<br />

feet for ten hours, with a top speed of at least 200 mph. Other details:<br />

Armament of twelve .50 caliber machine guns, a maximum bomb<br />

load of 20,000 pounds, and a fuel load of 2,780 gallons (3,600 gallons<br />

with bomb bay tanks). The rumor is that those twenty-seven-foot-long<br />

ammunition belts for the .50s gave us our term ‘the whole nine yards.’<br />

This air show was at <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>’ Lakefront Airport, the eastern<br />

counterpoint to Moisant International Airport. Joining the B-17 on<br />

the tarmac that day were a B-24, an A-1 ‘Skyraider,’ and too many others<br />

to remember. If one happened to have a spare $300 with him,<br />

a flight around the city in these craft could be had. If only …<br />

048


049


Tubaville – 04 April 1999<br />

Technically, this isn’t the CBD or Mid-City area of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />

It’s the window of a pawn shop on either Jackson Avenue or Louisiana<br />

Avenue at Magazine Street. The instruments and the building reflected<br />

in the glass each display the endpoint of high use and low maintenance.<br />

That, tho’, isn’t necessarily a bad thing.<br />

The tubas, trombones, and other instruments in the pawn shop<br />

once upon a time made the thing that people call ‘a joyous noise’ in<br />

the course of their existence. Now they sit silently, waiting for new futures<br />

playing old music.<br />

The house may once have been the site of grand parties or funeral<br />

wakes. My first experience with an in-home wake came when I was<br />

eight or so. The deceased’s coffin rested on two two-by-fours laid across<br />

sawhorses in the front room. What appeared to my young eyes to be<br />

hundreds of votive candles were placed throughout the front room, taking<br />

the place of electric lights. Veiled ladies dressed in black sat and wept,<br />

or remembered shared life experiences with the deceased. It’s just how<br />

things are done – Life and Death, holding hands as they drift together<br />

down Life’s Bayou toward the waiting Gulf …<br />

Tubas are heavy instruments. They’re also bulky. Carrying one<br />

in a parade can’t be a lot more fun than carrying the bass drum.<br />

The tuba’s heavier, but the bass drum’s bulkier. It projects out in front<br />

of you and its weight pulls you forward as you walk. Try doing that<br />

marching in formation sometime – don’t ask how I know these things.<br />

Every now and then, I wonder if any of those instruments were<br />

owned by someone who lived in that house.<br />

050


051


Do Not Park – 22 September 1992<br />

It would be wonderful if the location of this sign and this building<br />

in the CBD was remembered but, alas and alack, that memory is no<br />

more. What remains is this round-corner edging brickwork – and<br />

The Mysterious Sign.<br />

When you look at the old brick buildings of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,<br />

their corners are of the ‘must-be-right, can’t-be-wrong’ right-angle<br />

school. Squared-off. Precise. Angular. Geometric. Their shape is<br />

based on one of the Platonic solids (also called the regular solids,<br />

or regular polyhedra). There are five solids: the cube, dodecahedron,<br />

icosahedron, octahedron, and tetrahedron. Be grateful the cube won.<br />

Imagine your house built as a dodecahedron.<br />

This ostensibly simple column probably took them no longer to<br />

construct than its square-cornered cousins. The rounded edging would<br />

have been specified by the architect. It’s always a matter of making<br />

a tasteful choice, isn’t it?<br />

Surprise, and a bit of disappointment, enters into the picture when<br />

y’ think of how many buildings could have benefited from softer lines<br />

with the use of this round-edged bricking.<br />

Meanwhile, the question of what to not park in front of has been<br />

forcibly erased from the signage. It will remain forever unanswered.<br />

Someone was aggravated enough by this directive to use a chisel as their<br />

‘removal tool of choice.’<br />

052


053


Author’s Note:<br />

This section does not display many of the more well-known ‘tourist’ cemeteries.<br />

It concentrates on those cemeteries I grew to know fairly well over time.<br />

Holt Cemetery quickly became my favorite <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> cemetery.<br />

The unifying theme of all cemeteries is remembrance.<br />

This is done well in all of them shown here.<br />

054


Cemeteries<br />

__________________________________________<br />

“And therefore<br />

as a stranger give it welcome.<br />

There are more things<br />

in heaven and earth, Horatio,<br />

than are dreamt of in your philosophy.”<br />

Hamlet, Act I, Scene 5<br />

055


Better Keep It Clean – 24 January 1991<br />

This is the sight that greeted me on my first visit to Holt Cemetery.<br />

I liked it. Simple. Direct. The message had immediate clarity, much<br />

like that of the Talking Heads’ lyrics to ‘Life During Wartime’:<br />

“This ain’t no party / This ain’t no disco / This ain’t no fooling around”…<br />

It was also effective, as the graves at Holt were always well-maintained.<br />

It wasn’t unusual to see people removing old wooden coping or markers<br />

and replacing them with new ones – which led to many conversations …<br />

On this afternoon, a gentleman was in the bed of his truck throwing<br />

old coping into a dumpster. We talked for a bit, and he mentioned<br />

two roosters that lived on the property. I told him the groundskeeping<br />

crew had named them ‘Big George’ and ‘Little George.’ He looked<br />

at me incredulously for a second or so before saying “But that can’t be!<br />

MY name is George!” Every visit to Holt had its own special moment.<br />

The people I met at Holt were gracious and provided context<br />

to the inscriptions on many of the markers that are otherwise inscrutable.<br />

Their assistance gave me greater understanding of – and appreciation<br />

for – the people and histories interred there. Unlike most cemeteries,<br />

Holt doesn’t fit neatly into that ‘City Of The Dead’ category – it’s still<br />

a celebration-in-progress of the lives that are remembered there.<br />

056


057


Litanie des Saintes – 09 December 1993<br />

Of all the images I’ve taken at Holt Cemetery, this is my favorite.<br />

It’s difficult to pick just one that stands out more than the rest, but<br />

this one made the cut. Simple in its composition, sincere in its expression,<br />

it displays a bit more ‘staying power’ than most remembrances in the<br />

cemetery. In Holt’s unique ‘Land of Dreams,’ it has a special place.<br />

Tie up the pirogue; let’s walk the banks of Life’s Bayou for a second.<br />

The marker may look more like a cricket bat than a memorial<br />

with a cross at top, but to think that would be to make a mistake.<br />

The arms of its cross long ago broke off to give the impression of a<br />

‘handle’ at top. Look closely; a remnant of the painted text that once<br />

read from left to right across the bar still appears in truncated form.<br />

The headless statues are enigmatic. They display no name for<br />

a particular saint or person. Like many in the graves without markers,<br />

they too have become the Unknowns. They are also the Unknowables,<br />

having become anonymized by <strong>Time</strong>.<br />

Visible but out of focus at the very bottom is a decaying ribbon<br />

barely attached to a broken vase once used to hold artificial flowers.<br />

All are sun-bleached by exposure over time. The text on the marker<br />

will eventually disappear, and the anonymization will become complete.<br />

For those moments I was in its presence, a small remnant of individuality<br />

still flickered across the wood. Sic transit gloria mundi …<br />

058


059


The Holt Indian – 09 May 1999<br />

This Indian may no longer be on display at Holt. It was always<br />

to the immediate right of the entry to the cemetery proper, and to<br />

the right side of a bust of an individual named Bras-Coupé, the<br />

literal translation of which is ‘cut-off arm.’ That was the fictional name<br />

of a slave named Squire who lived in Louisiana until his death in 1837.<br />

He was an entertainer, and his master allowed him to travel. After<br />

many attempts to escape, he was captured in 1834 by a planters’<br />

patrol, which amputated his right arm as punishment. He continued<br />

to run away, and eventually organized a gang of escaped slaves and<br />

sympathetic whites (almost unheard of in the 1830s). They robbed<br />

stores, merchants, and plantations. He survived being shot by hunters<br />

in 1837, but a former ally named Francisco García bludgeoned<br />

him to death with a club in order to claim a reward for $2,000.00.<br />

That’s the short version of the story.<br />

Unfortunately, it does nothing to identify this person in full<br />

buckskins. I like to think it’s Bras-Coupé before his arm was removed.<br />

Could that be right? I don’t know – and the statues aren’t telling.<br />

060


061


Bishop C. M. Grace – 21 November 1992<br />

This marker for Bishop C. M. Grace is one of the very few<br />

professionally-made marble headstones at Holt Cemetery. It’s also one<br />

of the most opaque information sets of all the markers on the property.<br />

The text gives the deceased’s name, his dates of birth and death,<br />

and a memorialization that reads as code. “Marvelous, Magnetic,<br />

Majestic, Uncle Louie Loves Pa All Is Well.”<br />

What does it all mean? Who is Uncle Louie? Could ‘Pa’ be an<br />

abbreviation for ‘Pennsylvania’ … ? The term ‘cryptic’ is applicable<br />

to this marker. It’s one of those things first acknowledged as ‘curious’<br />

when seen, but which later creeps around the edge of the subconscious,<br />

looking for meaning and finding none. It reads unlike any Bible verse<br />

the departed may have liked in life, and points toward no answer.<br />

This will, for me, always remain one of Holt’s Great Secrets.<br />

Remember those annoying commercials from the T&V that yell out<br />

“But WAIT! There’s MORE!” … ? No. There’s not. Turn the page.<br />

062


063


A Seed Of Ham – 02 January 1993<br />

“Hammurabi Sendeth You A Stone” … so reads the inscription that<br />

bends beneath the arc of the tiny white marker on the grave of<br />

Rev. John Washington, Sr., not too distant from the front gate of<br />

Holt Cemetery. The marker says he was “A Decendent Of San<br />

Bernardo Settlement.” I make no claim to understand that reference.<br />

Family members and relatives probably know the meaning.<br />

The empy rectangle under the inscriptions could indicate an<br />

image or representation of the deceased to be viewed once displayed.<br />

<strong>Time</strong>, however, has removed it from view. Another element worth noting<br />

is the empty sheared rectangle under the ‘Hammurabi’ inscription.<br />

There are a few other elements on Rev. Washington’s grave.<br />

At top right – but not included in this image – is a small concrete pyramid<br />

of three (or four) levels. It bears the All-Seeing Eye on a side which faces<br />

the marker shown here. Its pyramidal form is rotated so as to be at<br />

a 45° angle to the corner of the cement top. The marker shown<br />

is surprisingly small, perhaps only 5 inches or so in height. Like that of<br />

Bishop Grace, those who know them know the cryptology.<br />

064


065


Art Smith’s Place, Holt Cemetery<br />

– 09 September 1993 –<br />

Holt Cemetery is one of the lesser-known jewels in the crown<br />

of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. A potter’s field established in 1879, it’s next to Delgado<br />

Community College at 527 City Park Avenue. Holt is unique when<br />

compared with other <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> cemeteries – its burials take place<br />

below-ground, not in above-ground tombs. Ownership of the plot<br />

stays with the family so long as the plot is properly maintained.<br />

The site shown here was maintained by a gentleman named<br />

Art Smith, a truly unique person. I saw Art from time to time when<br />

I visited Holt. We’d talk for a few minutes before getting back to our<br />

separate reasons for being there.<br />

During one conversation, I asked Art about the Xeroxed images<br />

under Visqueen in assorted picture frames around the site. I asked first<br />

if the lady in the pictures was his wife. Art said no, those were pictures<br />

of his mother. I next asked if the gentleman in the frames was his father.<br />

He said no, those were pictures of himself. Being more than a bit<br />

confused, I pointed out that we were standing there talking, and<br />

asked why he had framed images of himself on the grave. His answer<br />

was classic Art: “Well, I just wanted to see how it’ll look before I go in it.”<br />

Worked for him, works for me … Art’s place was never the same from<br />

one visit to the next because he was always finding new objects to display<br />

– like these chairs …<br />

066


067


Black Beauty – 13 September 1992<br />

In Loving Momory of Willie Jerome Clark<br />

Born April 7,1966 / Died September 7, 1992<br />

Lays In Peace beside his Ralatives.<br />

So reads the memorialization written in black Sharpie on a papiermaché<br />

marker that’s perhaps a foot or so high and would probably<br />

remain intact for a month or two before being reduced by the elements<br />

to its constituents and returned to the earth. This marker was placed<br />

to remember the 26-year-old victim of a shooting. The pencilled text<br />

inside the continent of Africa reads as follows:<br />

On Sept 7, 1992 a 26 year old man was sian in the 1400 block of Milton St.<br />

of multiple gun wound in the St Bernard Development. Shortly after 9pm office found<br />

my son lying face up in between two building my Ralative at the scene identified my<br />

son Willie Jerome Clark III to my acknowledge my son was rob I was told he was<br />

fighting with one person when the other persons took his life. Shot him in his head he<br />

die instantly. I Willie mother Lateefah Imani Ahmad Polk hurt for my child very<br />

much, that he was taking that way. But God know best and now he lay in peace and<br />

in my deepest memberance as a mother, my concern is I pray to God they get these<br />

kind of people off the street for the sake of other victim, so they would be safe to walk<br />

and live and don’t have to fear their lifes in these matter upon this earth from monster<br />

thinking people who rob others of their lifes.<br />

By Lateefah Imani Ahmad Polk<br />

In concern of her son Willie Jerome Clark<br />

068


069


She Is Go – 02 December 1993<br />

There are many markers in Holt Cemetery. Most of them, with<br />

the exception of marble government-issue military service markers<br />

and some others made of stone, are usually made of organic materials<br />

like plywood, barge board, papier maché, and occasionally flat-poured<br />

concrete, the memorialization written with a fingertip.<br />

This marker for a lady named Lilly Bell is one of the more poignant<br />

and durable markers at Holt. It’s also difficult to photograph because<br />

there are usually flowers held by a wire frame that obstructs the text.<br />

On this day, the text was fully visible. Flowers were there, but no frame.<br />

The sentiment is heartfelt. The marker’s sturdy construction<br />

shows a great deal of time, thought, and effort was put into ensuring<br />

it would be as good as it could be. The ruled lines ensure the text is<br />

evenly spaced and on the same line; the ball-and-stick letterforms<br />

ensure ease of reading. The spelling is phonetic, as it’s pronounced.<br />

The dates for some are missing, but that’s true of many markers at<br />

Holt. I’d like to think this marker survived Katrina’s visit to the city<br />

in 2005. Maybe it did. A lot of pirogues capsized during that time,<br />

but y’ have to keep paddlin’ as long as you’re in it … let’s push off again.<br />

070


071


Dorthy Jagkson – 13 September 1993<br />

Toward the back of the circular drive of Holt Cemetery is a plain,<br />

unassuming marker. The name impressed into its concrete is that of<br />

Miss Dorthy Jagkson. The shape of the marker, tho’, is what makes<br />

it memorable. It’s formed in the shape of a Gingerbread Man –<br />

or Gingerbread Lady, as it were. The spelling, although unusual, may be<br />

the way her last name was really spelled. It may also be the way it was<br />

pronounced, with letters pressed deep into the form while it was still wet.<br />

No matter the spelling or the pronunciation, this undated little<br />

headstone is one of the single most charming pieces of Headstone As<br />

Art on the property. Its stubby little ‘arms’ appear to give a welcoming<br />

hug to the occupant whose name it displays. Its ‘cookie-cutter’ shape<br />

implies the person memorialised may have been somewhat young.<br />

It does, after all, give the distinct impression of a small and friendly<br />

‘person’ who wants to reach out, grab your hand, and play with you.<br />

See how that ‘anthropomorphic’ thing works? There I go, projecting<br />

all sorts of human qualities onto an inanimate object. Don’t laugh –<br />

you’re going to do the same thing. Yes you will. I know you will.<br />

You’re doing it even as you read this. So there. Let’s paddle on<br />

down the Bayou now, shall we?<br />

072


073


Jessie ‘Ooh Poo Pah Doo’ Hill<br />

– 25 November 1997 –<br />

Among <strong>New</strong> Orleanians who came of age – so to speak – in the<br />

1960s, there are probably only a handful who never heard of Jessie Hill<br />

or ‘Ooh Poo Pah Doo.’ What were the lyrics to ‘Ooh Poo Pah Doo’?<br />

Who knew? Who cared? It was funky; it was cool. It was mos’ scoscious,<br />

the Party <strong>Time</strong> Music of Life’s Bayou. Its lyrics, if known, were usually<br />

those that said ‘And I won’t stop tryin’ / ’til I create a disturbance in your mind.’<br />

Any other lyrics were just lagniappe.<br />

The afternoon I came upon Jessie’s marker, it looked almost new.<br />

The shape and coloration that make it distinctive obviously took<br />

a good deal of time and planning. It was relatively pristine then,<br />

but wouldn’t stay that way for long.<br />

Jessie’s marker was 180 degrees from the position seen here.<br />

The background in that direction was a wire hurricane fence.<br />

I repositioned it to provide a background with the marker bright and<br />

front-lit instead of shadowed and back-lit. It was rotated, photographed,<br />

and rotated back to its original position. No problem. The background<br />

was now right for the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> funk legend who’s probably still<br />

creating a disturbance in someone’s mind somewhere …<br />

074


075


Bong Son, ’67 – 11 November 1993<br />

Garden of Memories on Airline Highway in Metairie, LA was<br />

the site of the first visit to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> by the VietNam Moving Wall<br />

exhibition in 1993. It opened to hundreds, and eventually thousands,<br />

of attendees. The drive to the event was along the Avenue of Flags,<br />

each bearing a service member’s name. To say a visit to the Wall is a<br />

moving experience is to engage in the highest form of understatement.<br />

Attendees could visit a tent maintained by the local chapter of<br />

VietNam Veterans of America (‘VVA’). There, they could look up names<br />

of service members and locate that section of the Wall bearing the name<br />

they sought. The name I checked doesn’t appear on the Wall.<br />

It takes a long time to walk the length of the Wall, even the reduced<br />

scale version on display. No section of the Wall lacked messages or<br />

memorabilia. The VVA provided paper and crayon for rubbings.<br />

Almost every foot of the ground behind a low line of twine guiding<br />

foot traffic along the path was covered with messages, flag, ribbons, and<br />

patches. The patch here represents the First Cavalry Division, First<br />

Squadron, Ninth Cavalry Regiment, or ‘First of the Ninth.’ The regiment<br />

was organized on 21 September 1866 in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, Louisiana, and<br />

mustered between September 1866 and 31 March 1867. The dedication<br />

patch is for the Battle of Bong Son in 1967 and a Trooper named Ty.<br />

076


077


Truth In Advertising – 12 December 1999<br />

The rarest form of humor is the unexpected humor which reveals<br />

a truth that, once exposed, is realized as having been obvious the whole<br />

time. That it’s not, wasn’t, and isn’t is even better. It’s the most inside of<br />

inside jokes, and probably generates more ‘Duh!’ moments than any other<br />

type of humor. The best part is that, once revealed, the connection can<br />

never be reversed. There’s a saying that tells us “The mind, once stretched by<br />

a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions” – and that’s especially true<br />

in this case. You can’t unthink it.<br />

This sign near the gates of Greenwood Cemetery tells all who view<br />

it that it’s an ‘Exit Only.’ One thing is quite certain about a cemetery:<br />

it functions only as an exit – never an entry.<br />

I don’t think too many visitors make this subtle connection.<br />

If the cemetery’s owners do, I applaud their perpetuation of one of the<br />

best-kept inside jokes in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> by leaving the sign exactly where<br />

it is. Life’s Bayou needs a little bit of humor, too …<br />

078


079


Talking With Jesus<br />

(On The Atomic Telephone)<br />

– 17 November 1992 –<br />

It’s not every day that you see a carefully-made tiled mosaic on the<br />

wall of a cemetery facing a bus stop. That’s one more egg in the casket<br />

of ‘Things That Make <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Special.’<br />

This pay phone ‘two-fer’ and the Mosaic Wall are at the corner<br />

of Canal Street at City Park Avenue. Cypress Grove is the cemetery<br />

immediately behind the plastered wall.<br />

The ‘Atomic Telephone’ comes into being because this mosaic<br />

of Jesus is in the vicinity of a two-pay-phone stand. That brought to<br />

mind a tune recorded in 1952 by The Spirit of Memphis Quartet titled<br />

‘The Atomic Telephone’. It only took one listen for me to be hooked.<br />

It captured the spirit of the time without invoking a fear of Imminent<br />

Nuclear Death while hiding under a school desk covering your head.<br />

If you’d like to read a bit more, here’s the discography information:<br />

http://www.crossrhythms.co.uk/articles/music/Spirit_Of_<br />

Memphis_Quartet_Tracing_the_history_of_a_classic_gospel_<br />

group/39430/p1/<br />

Although it’d be nice if this were larger, it’s easy to see how that would<br />

increase the Degree of Difficulty by at least an order of magnitude.<br />

Weight would increase, and securing it would become problematic.<br />

That being the case, let’s just enjoy the time, thought, and effort<br />

an unknown someone devoted to the creation of a very mysterious but<br />

nicely-turned-out piece of work for those who only stand and wait …<br />

080


081


Steadfast – 21 April 1993<br />

From the ‘Atomic Telephone’ outer wall of Cypress Grove Cemetery,<br />

let’s move to an ‘inside-the-walls’ memorialisation of Henrietta Sides,<br />

the wife of John Davidson. Her statue, like many others in cemeteries<br />

everywhere, shows her with her right hand resting on an anchor.<br />

What, you ask, does it mean? Did she die at sea? Possibly – but that’s<br />

only one interpretation; there are others. Need some examples?<br />

To early Christians, the anchor was a disguised cross, and also<br />

a marker guiding the way to secret meeting places. In most sea-faring<br />

areas, it can be an occupational symbol or represent Saint Nicholas,<br />

the patron saint of seamen. An anchor with a broken chain represents<br />

the cessation of life. Conversely, the anchor by itself is a representation of<br />

the hope that life goes on after death. It can also represent steadfastness<br />

in faith or the grave of a seafarer. So many symbols, so little time – and<br />

this simple anchor is only one of them.<br />

If you suspected that this might just be a double exposure, then<br />

pat yourself on the back – it is, it is!<br />

082


083


St. Expedite, Save Me Now – 07 October 1992<br />

It’s something as regular as the Change of Seasons: GothiKids<br />

performing ‘Junior VouDou’ on Hallow’een in cemeteries across<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. That, tho’, was not the case this day. This was only a<br />

‘trial run’ before their Big Day.<br />

How easily can you verify their activity on Hallow’een? Ma chér,<br />

all you got to did is walk tru’ any cemetery picked at random and look<br />

for a trail of smashed vegetables, burnt offerings, and wax candles that<br />

have the initials of the intended victim scratched into the forehead area.<br />

The ‘FauxDou’ isn’t why the GothiKids do this – they do it so<br />

they can talk a young female child into lettin’ them have their way in a<br />

spooky setting. Without going into greater detail, let’s ask the question<br />

made famous by one Miss Tina Turner: ‘What’s Love Got To Do With It?’<br />

Ablosutely nothing.<br />

This small collection of Toys From The Dark Side was discovered<br />

a few days prior to All Soul’s Day at the entrance to the Maunsel White<br />

tomb in Cypress Grove Cemetery. The partially burned red wax skull<br />

bears the initials ‘J.R.E.’ scratched into it; the St. Expedite candle is<br />

slightly used, but still contains wax. The eggplants and oranges weren’t<br />

worth including. In matters of things ‘voudou,’ St. Expedite wasn’t<br />

a major player, but historic accuracy wasn’t needed for the evening’s<br />

‘festivities.’ If you encounter these ones, ask if they’ve ever ‘performed’<br />

at the tomb of Marie LaVeaux …<br />

084


085


Birds Of The Cross – 27 November 1994<br />

This is a single-vault tomb in Greenwood Cemetery. It possesses<br />

some of the most unique ironwork I’ve seen used for any entombment.<br />

The most puzzling part of the construction is what appears to be two<br />

nesting places for birds. Could I be wrong about their purpose? Sure.<br />

Until a reliable source of information about their real purpose is found,<br />

I’ll continue to refer to them as birdhouses.<br />

The crosses are traceable to Church symbology, but different artistic<br />

renderings are applied to their three separate instances. A small cross<br />

with pointed arms sits on an iron ball atop the larger metal crosses.<br />

The birdhouse crosses are almost Escher-esque in their style. Large iron<br />

bands encircle the perforated crosses where, over time, some of the arc<br />

sections have broken off, as seen at right.<br />

There was no nameplate or other family name identifier that could<br />

be found for this vault. For now, it’ll have to remain one of the great<br />

Unsolved Mysteries of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> …<br />

086


087


The Final Muster – 27 September 1998<br />

The most distinctive and easily-viewable monument in Metairie<br />

Cemetery is the statue of General Albert Sidney Johnston atop his<br />

horse, ‘Fire Eater.’ It’s one of two works by the sculptor Alexander Doyle<br />

at the tumulus of the Army of Tennessee, Louisiana Division. The statue<br />

at the base of the tumulus represents a Confederate officer about to<br />

read the roll of those soldiers killed during the Civil War. It symbolically<br />

represents all Confederate soldiers. Burials continued in the Army of<br />

Tennessee Tumulus until December 30th, 1929, when the last Civil War<br />

survivor was buried.<br />

The most distracting elements for anyone taking pictures of<br />

the tumulus and its statuary elements are the wires in the background.<br />

They’ve been removed here, but they’re easily viewable there.<br />

For quite a long span of time, I knew almost nothing about the<br />

Army of Tennessee or the Louisiana Division. There’s a lot of history<br />

to be learned about these units. In another part of Metairie Cemetery,<br />

the tumulus for the Army of Northern Virgina hosts a statue of<br />

General Thomas ‘Stonewall’ Jackson.<br />

When you visit the tumuli, bring your camera with you – and plan to<br />

spend quite a bit of time in Photoshop making your images wire-free.<br />

Life’s Bayou doesn’t have an app for that … well, not yet.<br />

088


089


The Bird Reconsiders – 21 July 2001<br />

The Army of Northern Virginia tumulus displays this statue<br />

of General Thomas ‘Stonewall’ Jackson on a 38-foot-high column.<br />

Like General Johnston, he’s not buried within the tumulus, but in<br />

Lexington, Virginia. The bird has no historical connection I’m aware<br />

of to the history it sits atop. Sometimes it’s best to not overthink things<br />

too much; just take in the time and the place.<br />

090


091


The Light Of Wonder<br />

– 05 November 1992 –<br />

The text displayed reads that it’s dedicated to Santa Maria di<br />

Odigitria, Piana dei Greci. I know nothing about this individual, but<br />

a bit of research produced the following information, taken from the site<br />

whose URL appears below:<br />

http://sicilia.indettaglio.it/eng/comuni/pa/pianadeglialbanesi/pianadeglialbanesi.html<br />

“Originally Piana degli Albanesi was called Hora, that means<br />

town. It was founded in 1488 by a group of Albanian refugees<br />

escaped to Turkish army. King John II of Spain allowed them<br />

to occupy that place and to preserve their Greek cult so that<br />

the small town had the name of Piana dei Greci. In the times it<br />

changed into Piana degli Albanesi. Since 1941 it rises on a hill;<br />

below it there is a basin that is the cradle of an artificial lake.<br />

The most important monuments are the Cathedral Church<br />

with Greek rite and dates back to 1590; the chiesa di Santa Maria<br />

Odigitria (Church of St. Mary Odigitria) built in 1644 according<br />

to architect Pietro Novelli’s plan; the chiesa di S. Giorgio (Church<br />

of St. George), the oldest of the town, and the chiesa di S. Vito<br />

(Church of St. Vito) with an imposing portal.”<br />

This was one of the nicest – and most interesting – sites seen that day.<br />

It became a magnet on almost every visit after the first. This image, as you<br />

may have guessed, is a double exposure.<br />

092


093


Perchance To Dream – 09 March 1996<br />

The family mausoleum of Charles T. Howard in Metairie Cemetery<br />

holds a most marvelous statue. On most visits, the iron doors were<br />

chained shut, allowing only a view through their bars. On this day,<br />

the chains were unlocked. Sometimes we’re the windshield, sometimes<br />

we’re the bug. This was a ‘windshield’ kinda day.<br />

A bit of research shows that Mr. Howard was born in Baltimore,<br />

MD. He organized and became First President of the Louisiana<br />

State Lottery Company in 1869, and lived on St. Charles Avenue.<br />

In 1877, he reigned as King of the Mardi Gras Krewe known as Rex.<br />

The craftsmanship of this statue always fascinated me. To be sure,<br />

Metairie Cemetery has many statues that are finely made – this one,<br />

though, has that “je n’est ce quoi” that sets it quite apart from the others.<br />

With luck, this mausoleum was elevated enough to be unaffected<br />

by the water from Katrina that flooded Metairie Cemetery as well as<br />

others in the vicinity.<br />

When you visit Metairie Cemetery, I hope the iron doors of this<br />

mausoleum will be open for you as they were that day for me.<br />

094


095


096


Uptown & Carrollton<br />

__________________________________________<br />

Where everything’s a half-hour away<br />

from everything else …<br />

097


Caire Bears – 02 September 1992<br />

Found on the porch of a store in the ‘Antiques Section’ of<br />

Magazine Street is this basket of Cute ’n Cuddlies. Without getting<br />

too deep into the weeds of psychological terminology with ‘projection’<br />

and ‘transference,’ let’s just agree this could be used for a ‘One Of These<br />

Is Not Like The Others’ test.<br />

The stuffed animals look fairly large here, but from the sidewalk, and<br />

in a basket on a raised porch, they weren’t that easy to spot. I should have<br />

asked for a single price to buy the basket and its contents, but noooooo.<br />

That’s the kind of thing that brings on an after-the-fact Dope Slap.<br />

Over time, I thought about what name each should have.<br />

You know, like the Seven Dwarfs. ‘Dopey,’ ‘Grumpy,’ ‘Sleepy’ and<br />

the rest are all taken. Nobody wants to be a copycat, right? After<br />

all these years, I’m still trying to come up with names for them.<br />

I’m considering naming one ‘Aqua Velva Man.’ The rest need to wait<br />

their turn. On Life’s Bayou, names are most often usually ‘nice-to-know,’<br />

not ‘need-to-know’ – except sometimes when they are.<br />

098


099


Phrenology – 06 June 1999<br />

Wow! Is this thing cool or what!? I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t make the<br />

transition to a real-life tattoo, what with those lines so close to the eye<br />

and all, but a grease pencil might work.<br />

Walking in the coffee-shop area above Jefferson Avenue on Magazine<br />

Street, this tiny head’s sightless eyes stared at passersby from its place<br />

on a rack in the display window. It’s nicely-done, tho’, and it’s almost<br />

a color match for that antique ‘Blue Willow’ pattern cup and saucer<br />

next to it.<br />

When you know a bit about the premise used to justify the<br />

pseudoscience called ‘Phrenology,’ it’s easy to understand why people<br />

are such easy prey for those one who make similar claims for worthless<br />

‘treatments’ today.<br />

The term ‘phrenology’ (phreno- “mind” + -logy “study of ”) dates to<br />

1815. It was applied to the theory of mental faculties (originated by<br />

Gall and Spurzheim) that led to the 1840s mania for reading personality<br />

clues in the shape of one’s skull and the ‘bumps’ of the head.<br />

Today’s concept of self-esteem (self- + esteem) began in the 1650s,<br />

and was popularized by phrenology, which assigned it a ‘bump.’<br />

Seems it’d be a bit of a bad day if your ‘Phrenologist’ said he couldn’t<br />

find a ‘bump’ for that. Why, that could positively ruin your self-esteem<br />

(How’d y’ like the irony of using ‘positively’ with ‘ruin’?). Fortunately, Phrenology<br />

is now on the ash-heap of History. Unfortunately, its successors are<br />

even dumber. Let’s move further on down the Bayou before it returns …<br />

100


101


3th Ward – 22 June 1993<br />

On Tchoupitoulas Street near Louisiana Avenue was an old Quonset<br />

hut, and on its doors were spraypainted testimonals to the world that<br />

these individuals had made their mark in life. Right there. On the door.<br />

With spray paint. See?<br />

Oh. You saw that street name, didn’t you? Tchoupitoulas. Right.<br />

You’re wondering how it’s pronounced, aren’t you? Hint: Not like it’s<br />

spelled. Does that help? No? Well okay, then. It’s pronounced like this:<br />

chop-a-TOOL-iss. It’s an Indian word that means ‘Tchoupitoulas.’<br />

Only kiddin’. Some people say its origin is French, because the Native<br />

Americans who lived on the river caught a mudfish the French called a<br />

‘choupic.’ (I’ve also seen that spelled as ‘choupique.’) My two cents says<br />

it lies with the Chapitoulas Indians, whose name means ‘river people.’<br />

If you’re wondering how to pronounce the name of that fish they caught,<br />

just say ‘shoo-peek.’<br />

There have been many spin-offs from the word ‘Tchoupitoulas,’ too.<br />

The music of the Wild Tchoupitoulas is one example. If you’re a foodie,<br />

you might want to look up a recipe for ‘Chicken Tchoupitoulas,’ which is<br />

Cajun Chicken with Bearnaise sauce. Now it’s up to you, Gentle Reader,<br />

to investigate all the other linguistic niceties that link to this fascinating<br />

yet mysteriously strange-sounding word.<br />

I’ll be heading further down the Bayou now …<br />

102


103


This Little Piggy - 17 September 1993<br />

A drive home in heavy late-afternoon traffic on Carrollton Avenue<br />

was all the reason I needed to pull into the parking lot of a Chinese<br />

restaurant for dinner. The food was always good, service quick, prices<br />

reasonable. I parked in front of this statue. It’s a ‘You can’t un-see this!’<br />

moment. I’d seen it many times before, but never noticed it except<br />

in passing. This day was different.<br />

I stopped to see what its huge right front paw rested on. It appeared<br />

to be a pig (or piglet) which was now departed and visiting the Great Pork<br />

Processing Facility In The Sky. Unless I’m mistaken, those sharp pointy<br />

things are piercing a defenceless little piglet. One can only surmise<br />

it parallels Monty Python’s ‘Norwegian Blue’ parrot, and is now<br />

‘pining for the fjords.’ The dragon’s expression says ‘Don’t mess with me!’<br />

What also comes to mind is a quote attributed to Genghis Khan, namely:<br />

“The greatest happiness is to vanquish your enemies, to chase them before you, to rob<br />

them of their wealth, to see those dear to them bathed in tears, to clasp to your bosom<br />

their wives and daughters.” Somehow, this statue of piglet and the dragon<br />

doesn’t seem to be too far out of context with that quote.<br />

I’d like to learn the Li’l Arfin’ Annie Secret Decoder meaning to this<br />

imagery. If you know, please feel free to share. Is piglet the loser of a<br />

dodgeball contest with the dragon, or maybe something more sinister?<br />

‘Enquiring minds … ’<br />

104


105


Sweets – 01 November 1992<br />

After driving up and down both sides of St. Charles Avenue looking<br />

for interesting sites, I saw one of the local produce trucks parked near<br />

the corner of Delachaise Street. That was a logical choice for a high<br />

volume business. It was a pipeline for people going to and leaving work<br />

at Touro Infirmary on Prytania Street a few blocks away. It was also<br />

one of many locations where trucks set up their mobile truck stands.<br />

The produce was good, the vendors helpful, and the prices reasonable.<br />

This didn’t start out as a picture of a young lady selecting produce,<br />

but once she walked into the frame, the improved composition was<br />

so noticeable I couldn’t not record the moment. It’s not too bad for a<br />

hand-colored Kodak TechPan 25 black-and-white photo, either.<br />

Being a good street marketer involves a bit of Salesmanship and<br />

Essential Hype. See those signs advertising ‘Santa Rosa Plums’?<br />

Makes ’em sound all ‘exotic’ and ‘unique,’ right? Well, slow down a<br />

minute, Clifford. You haven’t already figured out the translation of<br />

that ‘exotic’ name? Think. In Spanish (maybe it’s the same in Italian,<br />

too), it just means ‘Saint Rose.’ That’s straight up Airline Highway<br />

as you head toward Baton Rouge. ‘Santa Rosa’ is ‘Saint Rose.’ The farm<br />

was probably located on River Road. Does that give you an idea of<br />

how ‘exotic’ they are? What it means is: The produce is local. This was<br />

before the invasion of the ‘locavores,’ too. Remember: Think locally,<br />

act globally. Or something like that.<br />

106


107


Sail Away - 17 July 1991<br />

A warm July mid-afternoon at Audubon Park near the fountain<br />

inside the St. Charles Avenue entrance. It was a slow, lazy day made<br />

slower and lazier by the high temperature and humidity. In other words,<br />

a typical <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> summer day.<br />

Looking around and seeing nothing while seeing everything, I turned<br />

toward the fountain at the entrance and saw a young boy engrossed<br />

in the minutiæ of launching his boat. On that day and at that time,<br />

there was nothing more important to him than watching his boat cruise<br />

over the water of the pond. The simplicity of the event was like that of<br />

any other <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> summer afternoon.<br />

I hope this young boy had many opportunities to revisit this fountain<br />

and watch his boat go ’round. The memory of those days will stay<br />

with him, to be recalled at those times when life isn’t so uncomplicated<br />

as it was on this day.<br />

108


109


Waitin’ For A Bite – 22 August 1992<br />

When you drive to the back of Audubon Park, you’ll arrive at<br />

the part known as ‘The Fly.’ It’s a reference to that part of the park’s<br />

river viewing shelter that was shaped like a butterfly. Built in the ’60s,<br />

it was torn down in the ’80s.<br />

The Fly has wide-open green space, fields for recreational<br />

activity, a playground, and really great views of the Mississippi River.<br />

It’s open from 0500 until 2100 hours.<br />

If you’re looking for a terrific place to just relax, get a bit of sun,<br />

or do a bit of fishing, then this is the place for you. The guy who walked<br />

away and left his pole unattended appears to be taking a bit of a risk,<br />

but it’s his pole. Wait here … let me see if I can find him.<br />

You’ll excuse me if I pick up my pole and paddle downstream before<br />

he gets back … hurry up - hurry up. He’ll be back any minute now!<br />

110


111


The NORTA Fix-It-Up Shop<br />

– 17 September 1992 –<br />

No matter what you think you see in this photo, it’s not that. <strong>New</strong><br />

<strong>Orleans</strong> operates one of the nation’s largest systems of Vintage Trolleys.<br />

This is the NORTA Carbarn on Jeanette Street in the Carrollton area.<br />

They rebuild and repair every streetcar that rides the rails of the city.<br />

They also make by hand the majority of unique parts no longer available<br />

from the original manufacturer. After Katrina, the original fleet of<br />

thirty-five original heritage cars survived. They were used to gradually<br />

return the streetcar lines to operation.<br />

Car 29 is the Repair Car. It’s also the Sand Car, bringing sand to<br />

refill sand barrels along the Canal Line. Its ‘work car’ dashboard striping<br />

is gone, and it wears the same color scheme now as the St. Charles Ave.<br />

cars: a green body, red doors, and silver dashboard striping. Its home is<br />

still the Carrollton Station on Jeanette Street.<br />

The Carbarn is where the streetcars are kept operational.<br />

Without the skilled craftsmen who work their magic here, the steel<br />

wheels of the Perley Thomas cars – and others – would quickly come to<br />

a grinding halt.<br />

The things people take for granted are only able to be taken for<br />

granted because of the people who make the magic happen behind the<br />

scenes. Maybe I should ask them to look at this leak in the pirogue.<br />

I can ride the streetcar while they check it out. It’s just $1.25 – and a<br />

quarter for the transfer …<br />

112


113


Who’s Your Daddy? – 18 June 1993<br />

If there were music playing in the background, it would have to be<br />

Chuck Berry. He’d be singing a little-known tune called ‘Hey, Pedro.’<br />

There’s a line in that tune that fits: ‘The leetle girl, she dance good, no?’<br />

Well, there we go again with that unending anthropomorphism thing.<br />

Sorry ’bout that.<br />

The little display window set-piece seen here was on Magazine<br />

Street in an area that once housed the noted architectural firm of<br />

Curtis & Davis. This was a block or two away from there, but that’s close<br />

enough for jazz.<br />

The window reflects the other buildings in the area, which adds just<br />

a bit more ‘mysterioso’ to the composition’s theme. It’s a game<br />

any number can play. Create your own storyline. Project it onto the<br />

characters in the setting. Assign each a history and a role. Shake well and<br />

bake at 350° until done. How the story ends is up to you.<br />

Oh – despite what your lyin’ eyes may have you believe,<br />

the dancing girl is absolutely dry. The only ‘water’ is what’s created<br />

courtesy of Photoshop.<br />

Let’s get back in our pirogue and paddle on down to the next block<br />

– I hear they just got a big batch of new stuff …<br />

114


115


On The Scene – 12 October 1992<br />

A late fall night in October of ’92 saw this house fire on Laurel<br />

Street develop quickly into one that brought out at least eight response<br />

vehicles from the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Fire Department. Pumper trucks,<br />

hook-and-ladders, snorkel trucks, and firefighters who had to bring the<br />

water to the base of the flames descended on the area. For more than<br />

two and one-half hours, they fought this blaze until finally bringing it<br />

under control. No other homes were damaged.<br />

When you consider that the average space between the old homes in<br />

Uptown <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> may be as little as ten feet, a fire in your neighbor’s<br />

home could also mean the loss of your home. This night, that outcome<br />

was prevented. It had nothing to do with luck – it had everything to do<br />

with knowledge and skill.<br />

There are some events on Life’s Bayou that are more memorable<br />

than many others …<br />

116


117


The Tchoupitoulas Water Tower<br />

– 19 May 1992 –<br />

This image was resurrected from an album submerged in<br />

approximately three feet of water during Hurricane Katrina.<br />

The negatives looked to be unsalvageable. Figuring there was nothing<br />

to lose by trying, I slowly opened each packet of film strips and laid<br />

them out to dry before trying to separate the four-frame sections.<br />

This is just one of the images that were able to be saved. It’s not perfect,<br />

and it clearly shows damage – but it still has an image.<br />

This water tower on St. Andrew Street not far from Jackson<br />

Avenue serviced the St. Thomas Development. Most people called it<br />

‘the Projects,’ and it was built in the first wave of public housing, between<br />

1938 and 1941. All of the buildings were two or three stories tall.<br />

Rent in the projects then was between $8.25 to $22.00 per month.<br />

The main source of revenue for <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> by the ’70s was tourism.<br />

That made projects like St. Thomas very desirable – and very pricey –<br />

real estate. The re-development of St. Thomas and other developments<br />

began well before Hurricane Katrina. St. Thomas’ replacement,<br />

known as River Gardens, had 182 units compared to its original 920.<br />

This tower was a landmark for the longest time. Another nearby<br />

landmark was the Glidden Paint Company building. Sara Mayo<br />

Hospital was only a few blocks away, as was the business that developed<br />

most of my film, Colorpix.<br />

Let’s get back in our pirogue and see where else our trip takes us …<br />

is it my turn to paddle?<br />

118


119


120


Lake Pontchartrain<br />

&<br />

West End<br />

__________________________________________<br />

Where the blue of the night<br />

meets the gold of the day …<br />

121


Sunrise At Low Tide – Date Unknown, 1996<br />

When I drove to Lake Pontchartrain this particular morning, I had<br />

no idea I’d see the lake at the lowest level I’d ever seen. The tide was out<br />

– way out, and items which were normally hidden were now viewable<br />

by one and all. Bring the whole family – and some popcorn.<br />

I parked in the Causeway Police lot, let them know I was on-site,<br />

and told them I wouldn’t be there long. They were cool with that.<br />

The ‘double-sun’ of the sunrise was an unexpectedly nice touch.<br />

If I count the reflection in the filter glass, there are three suns.<br />

(Why did I just flash on the ‘ST/TNG’ episode where Picard says<br />

‘There. Are. FOUR. Lights!’?)<br />

Had I been only a half-hour later, this scene would have disappeared.<br />

It didn’t take long for the tide to creep back in, enveloping the pilings<br />

and caressing the suddenly-exposed lake bottom in its wet embrace once<br />

again. Wait – can I say stuff like that … ? It sounds awfully – umm –<br />

‘racy.’ Tell ya what – you think about it, and I’m gonna step over here<br />

and get in the pirogue. Take your time – I’ll wait …<br />

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123


MV ‘Alexandria’ – 05 October 1994<br />

A balmy October day in 1994 and a drive around and through West<br />

End to see if anything new was there. Imagine, then, my surprise when<br />

I rounded the bend that leads to the entrance of Southern Yacht Club.<br />

As the distance shortened, I had to look once, then twice, then again to<br />

make sure I was seeing what I thought I was seeing and yes, I was …<br />

and it wasn’t even Mardi Gras.<br />

One of the things on my ‘I Won’t See That Today’ list was a pirate<br />

ship. Oh-oh. Color me wrong. My eyes fed me the correct data – now<br />

I had to act on it. I parked in the Southern Yacht Club’s lot (also known<br />

as the ‘Sudden Yat Club’) and walked to the boardwalk next to the ship.<br />

Yep, it was a genuine ship of sail, complete with masts and rigging, netting,<br />

and big ol’ anchor thingies. Look though I may, I saw nary a sail – until<br />

I accidentally looked in the right spot. That sort of thing happens when<br />

you’re non-nautical. Things that those familiar with the subject would<br />

spot right away go unnoticed by a novice who only knows a little bit<br />

about pirogues.<br />

A passer-by looked knowledgeable about boats, so I asked him about<br />

the pirate ship and why it was at SYC. He said the ship had been used<br />

in a movie featuring Tom Cruise, and was on the way back to its<br />

home port since filming was completed. He said it was powered by diesel<br />

engines and didn’t need to rely on the wind to get home. It’s good if<br />

someone’s around to provide answers to life’s little questions. That way,<br />

you can blame them later when someone tries to correct you.<br />

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125


Strawberries – 12 August 1992<br />

What can be said in here that the image doesn’t say for itself ?<br />

It’s one of the scenes that cross the field of vision briefly, lights up our<br />

eyes and, like the ‘Moving Finger,’ moves on to be seen no more.<br />

This brightly-colored sailboat bearing the name ‘Strawberries’<br />

on its stern swept gracefully past the spit of land projecting into<br />

Lake Pontchartrain from West End with what seemed an unusual<br />

accompaniment behind it.<br />

I thought a paper cup had fallen overboard and was being carried<br />

along by the wake. Looking closer, I saw a piece of string running from<br />

the stern, where it was tied, to a tiny plastic boat following it to the lake.<br />

By way of invalid comparison, it was a bit like watching a parent<br />

or older brother taking a younger family member into the world for<br />

the first time. Maybe Big Boat is taking Baby Boat out to show it what<br />

shrimp and crabs look like. It’s not often a sense of humor is seen<br />

‘in the wild,’ so to speak. This was both comforting and reassuring …<br />

and the only appropriate music here is 1979’s ‘The Kids Are Alright’ by<br />

The Who – but that was then, and this was now. That boat’s a lot bigger<br />

than this pirogue, too …<br />

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127


Ship Of Many Flags – 06 October 1992<br />

A sailboat in full dress with flags flying under a soft October sky in<br />

mid-afternoon light. Does it get any better than that?<br />

My knowledge of boats and boating is admittedly limited.<br />

The things I know about boating will fill a teacup, with room left over.<br />

That said, I know just two types of boats: Power boats and sailboats.<br />

I know, that’s an oversimplification and there are many subcategories<br />

and types. I only present observation and opinion. Knowing nothing<br />

about boats other than they’re big ‘floaty’ things, I can only look at ’em<br />

wide-eyed and say ‘Oooh!’<br />

The difference between power boats and sailboats for me<br />

is summarised as follows: Power boats are the ‘muscle cars’ of WaterWorld,<br />

and sailboats are the ultimate presentation of grace, style, and elegance.<br />

Power boats are the Ferraris, Maseratis, and Lamborghinis; sailboats are<br />

the Aston-Martins, Bentleys, and Rolls-Royces.<br />

There’s no right or wrong – just differences of type and function.<br />

It was just as good on the days when Al Copeland’s jet boat screamed<br />

over the Lake as it was on the days when sailboats bobbed on the waves<br />

to float in and out of the Harbor. Al’s jet boat was way cool, tho’.<br />

These are opinions only, and your mileage may vary.<br />

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129


Sailing Home – Date Unknown, 1993<br />

Although this image is undated, I’m reasonably sure it was<br />

taken in either late August or early September of 1993. Once again,<br />

‘The Point’ provides the best place for photographing boats as they enter<br />

and exit the harbor. While they may have been quite the speedy mode<br />

of transport on the open lake, when they headed into harbor they were<br />

restricted to the speed limit imposed on all boats in its jurisdiction.<br />

This sailboat seemed to glide across the water as if it weren’t there.<br />

The slight chop on the lake didn’t affect it as it continued its slow, graceful<br />

voyage at Viewing Procession speed until disappearing from view.<br />

For all my lack of knowledge about things nautical, I can still be<br />

impressed by the graceful lines of the craft themselves. Even though<br />

sailboats are sleeker and more graceful than their up-engined cousins,<br />

both types have their own beautiful lines. The ‘muscle boats’ are more<br />

aggressively designed, but are no less attractive – just different.<br />

Were it not for a childhood incident (which we won’t go into here)<br />

involving the <strong>New</strong> Basin Canal, an overpowered skiff, and a turn made<br />

at the wrong time with the wrong angle of attack, I may have had<br />

a different relationship with boating. As ‘The Wizard’ says at the end of<br />

‘Conan, The Barbarian,’ “But that is another story” … Now let’s get back<br />

to the pirogue and keep on movin’.<br />

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131


The Met Station – 01 October 1991<br />

The ‘met station.’ ‘Met’ is shorthand for ‘meteorological,’ and this<br />

was the weather station manned by the United States Coast Guard at<br />

West End. The facility has since relocated to the Metairie side of the<br />

17th Street Canal in Bucktown. Whether the old building still maintains<br />

any operational equipment or was converted to a showpiece for visitors<br />

is unknown, but it’s still in its old location.<br />

This structure was always a favorite of mine. Its lines are simple,<br />

stylish, and classic. The lighthouse at the top with its wooden railing<br />

around the walkway is a perfect accent piece.<br />

No visit to the lake was complete without driving a strip of asphalt<br />

where the Hong Kong restaurant (the first place I ate abalone) and<br />

Joe’s Crab Shack (Free Crabs Tomorrow!) did business. When the turn onto<br />

Lakeshore Drive made its gentle curve to the right (or left, depending on<br />

where you went), the Coast Guard met station was in view, even from<br />

the pirogue. It was always like seeing an old friend again.<br />

The USCG met station will be an iconic memory for all fortunate<br />

enough to see it. With luck, it will be maintained for years to come,<br />

if only as a reminder of ‘The Olden Days.’ The lighthouse will be<br />

quite helpful when paddlin’ the pirogue in late at night, y’ know …<br />

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133


The Moment In <strong>Time</strong> – 27 August 1991<br />

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135


Freedom – Date Unknown, 1992<br />

Crossing the levee at the end of Severn Avenue in Metairie and<br />

walking down to the lake on the batture side of the levee provides a great<br />

view of Lakeway Nr 1 and Nr 2. The silver film covering their glass<br />

reflects the sky and everything else around them. It also makes a great<br />

visual counterpoint to the darkening sky at sunset – as it did here.<br />

There’s something quite nice about a calm lake reflecting the<br />

surroundings on its glass-like surface. It’s great for ‘attitude adjustment.’<br />

If you’re recovering from a day in a cube farm or other high-pressure<br />

environment, visit the lake. It’s nice if you have time to change into<br />

comfortable clothes first, but it’s not mandatory.<br />

The Severn Avenue part of the lake is close to the Causeway that<br />

whisks people back and forth between the North and South shores.<br />

It’s relatively secluded, and doesn’t have the larger numbers of viewers<br />

found at West End or the Bonnabel launch sites. If you want a greater<br />

assurance you’ll be alone with your thoughts, this is the place to be.<br />

I didn’t plan to have the bike in this, but as luck would have it,<br />

a rider pulled up and parked directly in front of me before walking off<br />

to be with his thoughts. No ‘Do you mind?’ or ‘Sorry.’ He just parked and<br />

left. It couldn’t have worked out any better had I planned it this way.<br />

The pirogue stayed tied to its dock while I took in the moment …<br />

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137


The Storm Before The Calm<br />

– 15 September 1992 –<br />

Occasionally we do things that common sense tells us we shouldn’t<br />

do. This is an example of one of those ‘occasionallys.’<br />

The weather guys had been on-screen telling us repeatedly to stay<br />

home. ‘There’s a bad storm coming!’ Yeah yeah yeah. We’d heard it<br />

before, and usually it was all wind and no rain. That being the history<br />

of our WX guys, when they said this was going to be a bad storm,<br />

I put it in the category of Fred Sanford’s “This is the big one, Elizabeth!”<br />

and drove to West End. I shouldn’t have done that, y’ know.<br />

This was one of the times they were right. Once at West End and the<br />

Yacht Harbor, I knew by the number of boats secured in their slips that<br />

something was coming – not necessarily something good.<br />

The southeast wind picked up and rain hit the skin like BBs.<br />

Those signs told me I’d made a big error in judgment and it was<br />

time to leave. See? I can learn. It wasn’t easy paddlin’ the pirogue<br />

down Life’s Bayou that day, but it was a whole lot better than<br />

capsizing in the water, right?<br />

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139


Song At Sunset – 15 September 1992<br />

Parking at the end of Severn Avenue in Metairie and walking over<br />

the levee and down the batture brings you down to the edge of Lake<br />

Pontchartrain. Be careful, though. There’s a long strip of rough asphalt<br />

surfacing that runs parallel to the lake. It’s referred to as a ‘bike path.’<br />

Better it should be called ‘Attorney Alley’ or ‘Ankle Breaker.’ Walking on<br />

grass was a lot safer than taking the ‘bike path.’ Maybe it’s fixed now.<br />

Who’d expect to see a guy at the lake in late afternoon playing music<br />

while he kept the lake company? Sure, it’s a nice touch, but would you<br />

ever see this in Nebraska? Nuh-unh, Herbie. It’s a N’Awlins thing …<br />

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141


Oh, That’s A Good One! – 19 August 1993<br />

The pirogue pulled into a slip in the Municipal Yacht Harbor and<br />

I decided to walk around that section of Life’s Bayou. Big boats. Little<br />

boats. Boats with shiny Gelcoat finishes. Boats in need of a shiny Gelcoat<br />

finish. Pilings. Everywhere pilings. Pilings all over the place. Suddenly,<br />

this piling came into view. It had a Happy Little Dinosaur on top,<br />

and its tail was nailed to the piling. ‘Well, that’s just not right,’ I thought.<br />

Then I remembered it was only a rubber toy, not a real dinosaur.<br />

That made me feel all better. It’s a neat idea, tho’ – and it makes it easy<br />

to spot your slip among all those others without a dinosaur. It’s called<br />

‘Prior Planning’ …<br />

After that, I got back in the pirogue ’cos that was just too much<br />

excitement for me in one day. It’s a lot easier paddling down the Bayou<br />

– so I did.<br />

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143


Sunset Fishing – 15 September 1991<br />

The former fishing pier that was once used by many a visitor to<br />

Lake Pontchartrain for viewing, romancing, or just fishing was an<br />

ideal icon to use in any image. Backlit, frontlit, or lit from the side,<br />

it was always an instantly-reconizable icon to virtually every viewer.<br />

No ambiguity need apply.<br />

Depending on the time of year – or time of day – the type of visitor<br />

or user varied by purpose. Mid-day was the time of heaviest traffic.<br />

People gathered at the rail to watch jet ski acrobats perform aquatic<br />

escapades. If their performance was recorded by the viewers, that was<br />

a plus. Early morning was either no traffic or a few hardy souls arriving<br />

with fishing pole to hand and a tackle box full of lures at their side.<br />

Afternoon, whether early or late, was the time that late-day fishermen,<br />

romantic duos, or small families arrived at the pier to watch the<br />

sun sink below the horizon.<br />

This day had only one player in its ‘What Can You Catch?’<br />

Instant Winner contest that pitted Man against Fish. Fishermen made<br />

use of the bait and cleaning station, where there was a surface for scaling<br />

and gutting the catch, and a faucet for quick and easy clean-up of their<br />

hands and tools. I wasn’t there long enough to know if this fisherman<br />

went home with dinner or just an appetite. I hope it was dinner.<br />

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145


Pontchartrain Sunset, West End – 15 May 1993<br />

There was no pier like this in the ‘60s.<br />

There was only The Point (pron. ‘Da Pernt’).<br />

There was Lenfant’s and The Rockery, but …<br />

Dates asked why we were at The Point,<br />

and the universal reply was always:<br />

‘To watch the submarine races.’<br />

This pier is so much classier.<br />

146


147


148


Metairie<br />

&<br />

Jefferson Parish<br />

__________________________________________<br />

You hold it - I’ll light it …<br />

149


Girl, Did You Hear About – 17 September 1993<br />

Early one morning I wended my weary way to the Laundromat on<br />

Green Acres Road near Veterans Boulevard because my washer had<br />

seen fit to die over the weekend. That never happens at a good time.<br />

Bundling the Clothing Needing Cleaning, I drove to the laundromat,<br />

put everything in the washer, and went for a bit of a walkabout.<br />

Immediately adjacent to the laundromat were two other businesses.<br />

To the left was a gas station’s pay-inside operation. To the right was<br />

a ladies’ hair salon; further down was a restaurant that seemed to be<br />

under new management every other week.<br />

Peering into the closed salon, the chairs and hair dryers appeared<br />

to engage in a silent conversation of the kind held only by inanimate<br />

objects. Maybe it was the positioning of the dryers – I dunno. Either<br />

way, it was an image with furniture and équipages that were rapidly<br />

vanishing. It seemed fitting to memorialize them in a manner that<br />

suggested what may have gone on during business hours. Maybe the<br />

ladies were ‘Marge’ and ‘Vera,’ and the shop owner was named ‘Trudi.’<br />

So was born the Imaginary Conversation. The Extra Added Attraction<br />

was the reflection of the Mighty PimpMobile in the shop window’s glass.<br />

That’s what carried me to the laundromat, remember?<br />

A few clicks to record the moment, a quick dry and fold, and a return<br />

trip home on the Air-Soft Ride of the Mighty PimpMobile. Did you say<br />

the shape of the dryers may have been where ‘SNL’ got their inspiration<br />

for ‘The Coneheads’? I bet you did.<br />

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151


Aut, Not Science – 22 August 1992<br />

Found this interesting little accidental composition one morning<br />

on the way up Airline Highway to Norco and LaPlace. It was just past<br />

Power Boulevard and the Recycling Center. Oddly enough, what caught<br />

my eye wasn’t the huge truck tires. What I noticed was the corrugated<br />

metal wall displaying the letters ‘AUT.’<br />

I knew there would soon be an ‘O’ added to the first three letters,<br />

and this would just become boring. Best to get it while it was there.<br />

It lent itself easily to a really stupid question: Is it AUT – or Science?<br />

See? I said it was really stupid.<br />

Moving to the tires, we come upon another questionable set of<br />

letters. Do they spell ‘Used Tires’ or ‘Useds Tire’? That could have<br />

been avoided, y’ know. A bit more space, and the problem is gone.<br />

If they’d done that, tho’, it wouldn’t have caught the attention nearly as<br />

well. Maybe that ‘mistake’ was a purposeful error – like ‘Aut.’ Or not.<br />

We’ll never know. Oh - that ‘O’ at the end of ‘AUT’? It was never added.<br />

The sun’s gettin’ higher in the sky now, so let’s get back in the pirogue<br />

and paddle down Life’s Bayou into the shade of those trees. Right.<br />

Those ones over there … let’s go …<br />

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153


Contemplating The Abyss – 21 November 1995<br />

What was it Nietzsche said about the abyss? “Beware that, when fighting<br />

monsters, you yourself do not become a monster, for when you gaze long into the abyss,<br />

the abyss gazes also into you.”<br />

That seemed to be applicable to the situation this little Teddy bear<br />

found itself in when I happened upon the earth moving equipment it<br />

was attached to. This machine was used in the process of tearing up<br />

a parking lot and a few other things being replaced at a McDonald’s<br />

on Green Acres Road at Veterans Boulevard in Metairie, LA in ’95.<br />

If I let myself go ‘full anthropomorphic’ on this image, there are<br />

levels upon levels to be laid bare when it comes to symbolism and<br />

meaning – inherent or attributed. I appreciate the simple version of<br />

things. I choose to see a Teddy staring down at whatever lies below with<br />

a sense of child-like wonder, amazed he can be part of something so cool.<br />

I postulate he’s happy because the operator of the equipment wanted to<br />

show him what he does during the day. Maybe he sees a strand of beads<br />

left over from Mardi Gras. Wow … See what I mean about throttling<br />

back the anthropomorphism … ?<br />

A Zen koan tells us: “When one knows nothing about mountains and looks at<br />

a mountain, one sees a mountain. When one knows a little bit about mountains, one<br />

looks at a mountain and sees more than a mountain. When one knows all there is to<br />

be known about mountains, one looks at a mountain and sees a mountain.”<br />

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155


Gotta Be Here Somewhere – 17 September 1993<br />

Driving up Airline Highway one sunny morning, I saw something in<br />

the distance that looked interesting. The closer I got, the more interesting<br />

it became. When I was at the site, it became really interesting. For a brief<br />

moment after I exited the Mighty PimpMobile, I thought I was looking<br />

at a real, live, flesh-and-blood Human Being with his head stuck inside a<br />

transmission housing while perched on top of a metal pole. Talk about<br />

Gullible’s Travels …<br />

Once I realised what I was looking at, it was even more impressive –<br />

and incredible. There was no signage to indicate which company created<br />

the work. Usually those who make signs like this want their name in<br />

front of the public to attract more work, but there was nothing to see.<br />

It’s possible it was done entirely by the transmission shop personnel as an<br />

attention-getter. If it was, they did one helluva job making it believable.<br />

This is a real ‘trompe l’oeil’ …<br />

The ‘unknown’ was whether the overalls contained a mannequin<br />

form or were just stuffed with rags or batting. Just a quick thought about<br />

how long this had been in the weather and how well it still displayed<br />

makes me favor the mannequin. It has solidity and rigidity, making it<br />

easier to move than a set of overalls stuffed with rags. The other benefit<br />

to a mannequin is weather resistance. Rags or batting wouldn’t hold up<br />

to the constant exposure to wind, rain, or other outdoor phenomena.<br />

My money’s on the mannequin form. Big props to the creators of this<br />

great piece of advertising art. Ya did good, podnuhs …<br />

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157


The Industrial Spider – 17 September 1992<br />

On this bright, shiny September afternoon, I noticed activity taking<br />

place under the Power Boulevard I-10 overpass. Another flyover was<br />

being built above it, and I could see its hardhatted construction crew<br />

working there. Off to the side was a long greyish tube that rose up to the<br />

crew from the ground. Color me curious.<br />

I walked up the ramp past the Barricade of Cones that kept traffic<br />

off of the Power Blvd. ramp and looked over the edge. What lay below<br />

was magnificent. It was a concrete pumper with its stabilizers deployed.<br />

It resembled nothing so much as a trapdoor spider in its lair … waiting.<br />

This isn’t something that’s seen every day, especially when you’re<br />

in a pirogue on Life’s Bayou. Grabbing the EverReady Camera and<br />

steadying it on the railing, the pics were done in a matter of minutes.<br />

Late afternoon on a September day with an ‘Industrial Spider’ for<br />

company. Does it get any better?<br />

Okay. That’s enough reminiscin’ – grab a push pole, ’cos we’re<br />

gettin’ back on the Bayou …<br />

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159


One Dime, One Dance – 26 March 1995<br />

The car shows were something to behold. Elmwood Center was the<br />

place to be when the hoods went up and the paint would glisten in the<br />

sun. There were old cars, new cars, kit cars, vintage cars, motorcycles,<br />

three-wheelers, funny cars, and anything else your little automotive<br />

mind could wish for.<br />

One thing was always certain – there was always excellent<br />

workmanship on display to satisfy the most critical attendee. If anyone<br />

went home saying there wasn’t enough variety, they were in the<br />

‘Impossible To Please’ category and should never be taken seriously.<br />

This vehicle, with the lunch-counter jukebox atop its radiator, was<br />

one of the most interesting cars on view this day. The jukebox was<br />

labeled ‘For Display Only.’ No matter how many dimes you put in,<br />

you’d never hear a tune.<br />

For overall visual effect, the combination of chrome and paint under<br />

the bright noon-day sun was hard to beat. There were a few competitors,<br />

but none had that ‘little bit extra’ this one had. Step up and take a<br />

bow … you earned it. The most unexpected things come into view on<br />

Life’s Bayou sometime.<br />

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161


Going Down – 22 May 1999<br />

Once there was a building called the Security Homestead building.<br />

It was on Veterans Memorial Boulevard in Metairie, Louisiana, only<br />

a few blocks from where I lived. I first became aware something may<br />

be about to happen the day I saw the crane with a wrecking ball at the<br />

end of a long wire cable driving onto wooden platforms placed on the<br />

ground to keep its treads from sinking into the mud.<br />

As time went on, signs became increasingly obvious that the Grand<br />

Finale was rapidly approaching. If I was going to get any closeup<br />

images, I’d need permission from the site’s General Manager to be on<br />

the property. A quick visit to his on-site trailer got me the permission<br />

I needed. While I was there, I asked if they had considered performing<br />

an implosion. You know – like Jamie on ‘MythBusters’ – “Jamie want<br />

Big Boom!” He said that couldn’t be done because of the soil type in the<br />

location. If the building were brought down by implosion, the shock<br />

wave transmitted to adjacent properties through the soil would wreak<br />

havoc on their piping and water supply lines. Well, alright then …<br />

As demolition progressed, enough of the building was removed so<br />

the Inner Sanctum of its Central Core was now revealed. I suspect it<br />

housed the elevators in real life. The only way to capture that was from<br />

across the street, so I parked there. The structure in this picture was<br />

gone two days after this was taken. A Wreckin’ Ball waits for no one.<br />

Neither does our pirogue. What? I thought you tied it up. You didn’t?<br />

Okay – let’s start looking for it before it gets dark …<br />

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163


Be 18 Or Die – 10 May 1999<br />

Near the sharp ‘S’ curve of Jefferson Highway where Canton<br />

Restaurant, Bowl-A-Rama, and Jahncke Concrete’s yard used to be<br />

was a place called the Sport Palace. The cinderblock exterior wore<br />

a base coat of blue paint, and its artwork was painted over that.<br />

One afternoon I stopped to image some of them. After a few exposures<br />

were made, another part of the building was inspected to see the rest of<br />

the artworks.<br />

Whoa! As I turned the corner, I saw a sign in the door and knew it<br />

was going to be the image of the day. ‘Be 18 or Die’ … there’s not a lot of<br />

subtlety goin’ on in that message, is there? No sirree Bob …<br />

<strong>Time</strong> for a brief description of why this looks the way it does.<br />

The shutter release was pressed, a ‘click!’ was heard, and the exposure<br />

was under way. It was long, about two minutes. About halfway through<br />

the exposure, the door swung wide as a customer left the building.<br />

Oh-ohh! What’s that gonna do?<br />

Unexpectedly, the customer’s exit had provided a view of the interior<br />

and the vending machine’s lights inside. I could never have gotten that<br />

with the door closed. It would have been a sign that said ‘Be 18 or Die.’<br />

If I met him today, I’d shake his hand and say ‘Thanks.’<br />

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165


Metaire Shrimp – 10 June 1994<br />

Looking at that truck, I hear the words “Oh Grandma!, what big teeth you<br />

have!” Does that make sense? Probably not. It’s a subconscious response<br />

to a primal image. Big scary thing coming at me! As King Arthur said<br />

to his Knights in Monty Python’s ‘Quest for the Holy Grail’ when the<br />

Killer Rabbit wreaked havoc: “Run away! Run away!”<br />

Slipping back into the Real World again, this hugemongous truck<br />

was parked on Airline Highway in Metairie, LA. I was next door and,<br />

doing a quick read of the visuals, had to remind myself to not laugh<br />

until I (or the truck) was out of sight.<br />

So: What got the Laff-O-Matic running, you ask? It’s an inside joke<br />

kinda thing, but if you view what’s been stamped into the Big Chrome<br />

Bumper of the truck, you’ll read the words ‘Metaire Shrimp.’<br />

One tiny little problem … The letters in that Big Chrome Bumper<br />

should spell ‘METAIRIE SHRIMP.’ There are two ‘i’s in ‘Metairie.’<br />

That’s not gonna buff out easily, y’ know.<br />

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167


The LaSalle – 12 January 1994<br />

While driving through Elmwood Industrial Park one day, I spotted<br />

this old LaSalle in the side alley of an auto repair shop. Could I have not<br />

stopped to enquire about it … ? No.<br />

After a brief introductory period, I told the owner of the facility<br />

what had caught my attention and asked if I could view it up close and<br />

take a few photos of it while I was there. He didn’t have a problem<br />

with that, so I did and the rest, as they say, is history. Okay, okay –<br />

not well-known history, but let’s not be overly picky, awright … ?<br />

The LaSalle was an American luxury brand made and sold by the<br />

GM Cadillac division from 1927 through 1940. The concept for the<br />

LaSalle was developed by Alfred P. Sloan, and it was part of the plan to<br />

fill pricing gaps he saw in the GM pricing portfolio.<br />

Sloan created the LaSalle as a companion brand to Cadillac.<br />

They were manufactured by Cadillac, but were lower-priced models.<br />

Their marketing slot put them in the enviable position of being the<br />

second-most-prestigious marque in GM’s lineup.<br />

Following the lead of Cadillac, the LaSalle brand name came from<br />

that of a French explorer, René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle.<br />

I would never have thought it had such a lineage – but it did. It also<br />

had a great grille. What I saw was a ‘period’ vehicle that could be used as<br />

a focal point for the cover of a fictional book that sounded all ‘dramatic’<br />

and ‘suspenseful’ – like the one you see as you look to your right …<br />

You won’t find that on any other Bayou ’cos we have an ‘Exclusive Use’<br />

deal on it. Let’s keep on paddlin’ …<br />

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169


<strong>Time</strong> Saver – 09 October 2005<br />

Ecclesiastes reminds us that, “To every thing, there is a season” but<br />

I don’t think that refers to Hurricane Season. This empty tilted gnomon<br />

points awkwardly at the sky after having been quite rudely treated by<br />

Hurricane Katrina.<br />

The earliest it was possible to return from evacuation in Baton Rouge<br />

was late September of ’05. This was the second trip back. After securing<br />

the apartment as much as possible with no door locks, it was time to see<br />

the other areas.<br />

This non-functioning sign on 17th Street in the Fat City area of<br />

Metairie once lit up a <strong>Time</strong>Saver parking lot. Even tho’ its fluorescent<br />

tubes were oddly intact, there was no power. Night was eerily reminiscent<br />

of the ‘Dawn Of Man’ nighttime sequence in Stanley Kubrick’s ‘2001:<br />

A Space Odyssey.’ Morning was always a welcome sight.<br />

At a once-lively-but-now-empty nightclub, there were cases of MREs<br />

and water passed out by the troops of Charlie Co., 1/108 Field Arty<br />

out of Philadelphia, PA. If MREs weren’t your idea of a hearty meal,<br />

they had cases of canned wienies in sauce – and they were magically<br />

self-heating, too. (Pro tip: Always take the MREs.)<br />

Katrina made my move out of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> take place about three<br />

years earlier than planned. The United Van Lines truck arrived early on<br />

the morning of 14 November 2005 to load what was left of my ‘stuff ’ and<br />

roll it up the highway to Memphis, TN.<br />

That was then. This is now. It’s time to grab that paddle and push<br />

off from the bank once again. Life’s Bayou is waitin’ – let’s get movin’ …<br />

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171


Versailles Motel – 20 July 2002<br />

Once one of the ‘In’ places to stay, and considered to be quite<br />

the ‘hoity-toity’ establishment by travelers, the Versailles Motel on<br />

Airline Highway transitioned from reality to memory in July of 2002.<br />

The demolition proceeded at what might be described as a ‘relaxed’<br />

pace, and crews never rushed to finalize the process. That may have<br />

been a bit of temporary job security for them.<br />

The Versailles’ architecture was a product of its time. Now, that<br />

time was up. It had been passed by. <strong>New</strong>er, better, and trendier places<br />

with nicer amenities made the Versailles obsolete. The end, as they say,<br />

had been nigh. Now ‘nigh’ had arrived.<br />

The walkway over the swimming pool area is indicative of the<br />

Versailles’ once-new architecture. A bit too much ‘Jetsons,’ not enough<br />

‘Star Trek.’ There was, tho’, something incongruously appealing<br />

about the presence of that little ‘Witch-On-A-Stick’ on the flagstone.<br />

The walkway’s reflection in the water as an ‘All-Seeing Eye’<br />

perfectly matched the overall feeling of surreality.<br />

Before getting too deep in the psychological weeds, let’s back away<br />

real slow and walk back to our pirogue where it’s safe. Don’t make any<br />

sudden moves, keep your hands where I can see ’em, and we’ll be headin’<br />

down Life’s Bayou again in a few seconds …<br />

172


173


KCS 4356 – 22 September 1992<br />

What could possibly be cooler than a locomotive? The answer to<br />

that is: Seeing a locomotive up close! Like this KCS engine bearing the<br />

number ‘4356.’<br />

The KCS maintenance facility on Cold Storage Road in Jefferson<br />

Parish was a great place to view trains. They were usually parked in the<br />

open. Even if they were moving, the track speed out of the repair shed<br />

was minimal.<br />

The day I spotted this engine waiting its turn to enter was a great<br />

opportunity to see things most people might just wonder about. I didn’t<br />

expect to see the two red coolers outside the door. They added a nice<br />

touch of the ‘everyday’ to the engine. Ham sandwiches, root beers …<br />

Even though this was the KCS yard, it wasn’t unusual to see a train<br />

bearing a Union Pacific or Burlington & Northern logo on its side. All of<br />

them were great, and there was always a shortage of either time or film.<br />

Sometimes, it was both.<br />

Over time, I came to know the yard’s Superintendent and shared<br />

some of the better images with him. He was the person who gave me<br />

the green light to be ‘on the yard.’ Without his permission, many of the<br />

afternoons spent there would have been only to enjoy the sights.<br />

It’s been nice visiting here again, but the time to move further down<br />

Life’s Bayou is upon us …<br />

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175


The Fix-It Bear – 22 November 1996<br />

Remember ‘Mister Bill’ on ‘Saturday Night Live’? Remember his<br />

nemesis, ‘Mister Hand’? If you put your ear real close to the page, you<br />

can almost hear this cute little bear saying ‘Oh noooooooooo Mister Dart!’.<br />

This dart board hung on a side wall of the Auto Tune garage on Airline<br />

Highway. The bear was the ‘Extra Added Attraction.’<br />

Every time I drove the Mighty PimpMobile to be brought back<br />

from the brink of Automotive Death, Rick and Darren always came<br />

through. Even when the PimpMobile reached the point of being<br />

‘in extremis,’ they were able to reach in and pull out a few more days<br />

of operable life. The bear saw it all as it happened. Hey! How’s that for<br />

some ‘personification’? Woo-hoo! Do the ‘happy dance’ … !<br />

Back to the subject: Driving past the shop one day, I brought<br />

Rick a picture of this dart board and its Fix-It Bear. He looked at it<br />

for a minute or so, and then said he didn’t remember it being there.<br />

That’s easy to understand, tho’ – he and Darren were usually too busy<br />

tending to the Mighty PimpMobile’s automotive needs.<br />

Their shop is closed now, and I like to think the dart board and its<br />

Fix-It Bear are in a comfortable villa with hot and cold running<br />

transmission fluid. If the Great Spirit of the Mighty PimpMobile<br />

is there too, life will indeed be good.<br />

Okay – enough ‘Memory Lane’ stuff. The pirogue’s not gonna<br />

paddle itself, you know. Let’s get started …<br />

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177


The Magic Hat – 10 December 2000<br />

What more needs to be said about this? Some people can handle<br />

Mardi Gras. Some people can’t. I have no idea which category whoever<br />

tossed this little hat onto the sign falls into. In case you’re curious:<br />

No. I didn’t take it home with me.<br />

Like Johnny Cash sang: ‘I hear that pirogue callin’, it’s callin’ ’round<br />

the bend … ’ That means it’s time to pick up the push pole, doesn’t it?<br />

Come on - we’re almost there.<br />

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179


We Live To Serve – 09 June 1992<br />

Why, yes! It IS a Vehicle Inspection Station! This one’s at a gas<br />

station somewhere in Metairie. The tag at bottom right in the picture<br />

is from a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> brake tag station. If you’re wondering why the<br />

difference, it’s because <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> didn’t allow the State to perform<br />

inspections or issue State tags in its jurisdiction. That meant you went to<br />

the Brake Tag Station on Jefferson Davis Parkway. If you wanted a tag,<br />

it was always helpful if the ‘inspector’ saw a $5 bill on the dashboard<br />

when he scraped off your old sticker. The State inspection stations<br />

were a bit more straight-forward. Your car passed, or it didn’t. If it<br />

passed, you were then issued a sticker good for a year. In <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,<br />

your ‘brake tag’ sticker was only good for six months.<br />

Here’s a little brain teaser: Given the information above, which<br />

tag is better to get? Would you rather get your tag in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,<br />

or anyplace else? That was the question drivers in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> asked.<br />

Their answer was usually to get ID showing they lived anywhere except<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> to get a reduced-rate, year-long State tag. Here’s another<br />

variable: This was before any emissions inspection was added to the list of<br />

tests cars had to pass. Imagine the joy …<br />

What’s that you say? Our pirogue passed, and now we have a<br />

brand-new State-issued Pirogue Tag good ’til next year? Well okay, then.<br />

Let’s get back on Life’s Bayou and start paddlin’ since we’re legal now …<br />

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181


Amtrak 4037 – 07 June 1995<br />

There’s something about trains … a sense of history, of freedom<br />

and adventure, a lingering attachment to their predecessors that helped<br />

tame the Wild West when they were called the ‘Iron Horse.’ The smell<br />

and feel, the look, and the sheer size of the locomotive and its caravan<br />

of cars combined to convey a sense of immense power and potential.<br />

This Amtrak train, Nr 4037, rested for the longest time on a spur in<br />

a side lot on Pepsi Avenue in Elmwood Industrial Park in Metairie, LA.<br />

It was massive when viewed up close. With its complement of boxcars<br />

in train, it was an impressive sight, even in its state of disrepair.<br />

There were more mornings and late afternoons than I can recall<br />

when I drove to get images of the engine, its cars, the wheels, or just<br />

the weathered surface textures of different materials of construction.<br />

There was always the uneasy feeling that Amtrak had thrown away a<br />

perfectly good train.<br />

A good friend has just given me news this engine has been moved to<br />

a site where it will hopefully be restored to its former status. The Society<br />

doing the restoration is currently restoring the steam train I used to play<br />

on in Audubon Park when it was across the street from Monkey Hill.<br />

If Nr 4037 can be brought back to life and generate motive power<br />

on its own, that will be the best of all possible worlds. Arlo Guthrie’s<br />

musical question may be asked by this one, too: ‘Good morning, America,<br />

how are you?’<br />

182


183


Face Full Of Pole – 25 July 2003<br />

Some days you’re the flier; some days you’re the pole. Or,<br />

to shamelessly mock an old ad for A Beer Which Shall Go Un-Named:<br />

‘When you’re out of Witch, you’re out of here!’<br />

And so, as the sun sinks slowly into the west and the witch slides<br />

slowly down the pole, we come to the end of our First Exciting Adventure<br />

down Life’s Bayou. We hope you’ve had as much fun on our journey<br />

as we’ve had sharing these small ‘Life Vignettes’ with you.<br />

Keep your eye to the skies for the arrival of a comet announcing our<br />

Next Big Adventure - Volume II. Please wait for the pirogue to come<br />

to a complete stop and leave your push pole in the ‘flat and locked’<br />

position before returning to the shore. Your business is appreciated,<br />

and we look forward to having you join us on our next trip. Thank you<br />

in advance for recommending our product to your family and friends …<br />

Merci, et bon chance, mon ami.<br />

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185


About The Author<br />

Richard A. Caire was born in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, LA in 1944, and has had many<br />

and varied life experiences, some of which are shared in this book.<br />

Richard worked briefly as a printer in the studio of Philip Sage, printing<br />

many editions of Sage’s images as well as the Knute Heldner family-authorized<br />

restrike edition of several drypoint copperplate etchings.<br />

During his ‘Chemical Years,’ he represented six major divisions of the<br />

Rochester Midland Corporation in the Louisiana, Mississippi, S. Alabama, and<br />

Florida panhandle territories. He was the Chemical Sales Manager and Trainer<br />

for Jim Walter Paper Company before joining the hazardous materials recycling<br />

firm of Marine Shale Processors in St. Rose, LA as Special Projects Manager.<br />

Richard joined Kinko’s as a typesetter and graphic designer in 1994. Kinko’s<br />

was later purchased by FedEx and renamed FedEx Kinko’s before evolving to<br />

become today’s FedEx Office. Moving to Memphis, TN after Hurricane Katrina,<br />

Richard retired from FedEx Kinko’s in 2006.<br />

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The Mighty PimpMobile<br />

At 230 inches long, the 1977 Lincoln Continental Mark V was the<br />

largest two-door coupe ever sold by Ford Motor Company.<br />

ENGINE: 460 CID 4V V-8<br />

Bore & stroke: 4.36 x 3.85 in. • Comp. ratio: 8.0:1<br />

Horsepower: 208 at 4000 RPM • Torque: 356 lb.-ft. at 2200 RPM<br />

Carburetor: Motorcraft 4350<br />

Wheelbase: 120.4” • Overall Length: 230.3” • Width: 79.7” Height: 53.0”<br />

Curb Weight: 4,838 lbs. • Track: (Front/Rear) 63.1”/62.6” • Luggage Capacity: 18.1 cu.ft.<br />

Fuel Capacity: 26.0 gallons<br />

Headroom: (Front/Rear; in inches) 37.5/37.1 • Shoulder Room: 60.4/59.0<br />

Hip Room: 55.4/54.3 • Leg Room: 42.3/34.0<br />

Top Speed: 111 mph (theoretical)<br />

Acceleration: 0- 60 mph - 12.7s<br />

Author’s Note: The Mighty PimpMobile was donated to the Salvation Army, where it<br />

was sent to the Steel Recycling Corporation of America to become new products.<br />

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Memory lane is so long … yet so short.<br />

There is no beginning.<br />

There is no end.<br />

There is only that moment<br />

when we look back<br />

or<br />

look ahead.<br />

– To Be Continued –<br />

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