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A trip down the Bayou of Life in the Crescent City as seen through the eyes of a lifelong N'Awlins resident …
A trip down the Bayou of Life in the Crescent City as seen through the eyes of a lifelong N'Awlins resident …
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– Since 1944 –<br />
Living On<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
T I M E<br />
Passing Moments As Seen From Life’s Bayou<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
First Edition<br />
~ 2018 ~
Copyright Information<br />
____________________________________<br />
This is a work of fiction. Any references to historical events, real people,<br />
or real locales are used fictitiously. Other names, characters, places, and<br />
incidents are the product of the author’s imagination, and any resemblance<br />
to actual events, locales, or persons, living or dead, is entirely coincidental.<br />
Copyright 2018 Richard A. Caire<br />
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored<br />
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means –<br />
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without<br />
the prior written permission of the author. The only exception is brief<br />
quotations in critical articles or reviews.<br />
First Edition: 2018<br />
ISBN-13: 978-1720365907<br />
ISBN-10: 1720365903<br />
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1<br />
RAC<br />
Printed in the United States of America
Living On <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>Time</strong><br />
________________________________________________________<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
EDITOR<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
WRITER<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
LEAD DESIGNER<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
GRAPHICS EDITOR<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
PHOTO ARTIST<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
GRAPHIC ARTIST<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
COVER ART & DESIGN<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
EDITORIAL MANAGER<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
CONSULTANT<br />
Allan Lane Casteix<br />
COPY EDITOR<br />
Richard A. Caire<br />
INTERNS<br />
Needed Only When In-Hospital<br />
SPECIAL THANKS<br />
Adelard A. Caire, Rita McCabe Caire, Douglas Caire, Mary Lee McLean,<br />
Megan Silea, Allan Lane Casteix, C. Samuel Hopkins, Linda Craig
Table Of Contents<br />
_________________________________________________________<br />
(<br />
The French Quarter ............................................001<br />
The CBD & Mid-City Area .......................................025<br />
Cemeteries ...................................................055<br />
Uptown & Carrollton ...........................................097<br />
Lake Pontchartrain & West End ..................................121<br />
Metairie & Jefferson Parish ......................................149<br />
About the Author ..............................................186<br />
The Mighty PimpMobile ........................................187<br />
To Be Continued ...............................................189
Prologue & Introduction<br />
Shown here is a window display for an antiques shop on<br />
Magazine Street in Uptown <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. Once upon a time,<br />
each was bright and shiny, and did useful things. Now they’re only<br />
‘vapors of history’ that make people say ‘Oh, how nice!,’ while serving<br />
no purpose higher than colorful knick-knacks or ‘accent pieces’ on<br />
a mantel shelf or coffee table. They’re ‘the good stuff ’ that kids find<br />
after a flood. That’s not a criticism, tho’ — it’s just the way life works.<br />
What’s innovative, new, and useful today eventually comes to rest on<br />
the banks of Life’s Bayou, where each becomes its own oxbow item.<br />
All these pieces and their places had their moments – now they’re<br />
gone. The events presented herein may be likened to images locked<br />
in amber, their contents preserved forever in time. They’re as brief<br />
as the sunrise that glowed, then vanished; the unexpected moment<br />
of magic which, tho’ gone, remains locked in memory; or those<br />
dissimilar objects and events which once created the juxtaposed linkages<br />
that have now dissolved. These magical events happen everywhere –<br />
they’re just more special when they happen in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
I’m glad you’ve joined me on this trip down Life’s Bayou.<br />
Let’s get in our pirogue and push off from the bank …<br />
Allons!
7
The French Quarter<br />
__________________________________________<br />
If it’s not here, you don’t need it.<br />
001
French Quarter Morning – 17 September 1991<br />
This morning in this alleyway brought to mind many possibilities<br />
for a movie script. Some were mundane; others, quite dramatic.<br />
The key to the green door always unlocked a mystery. A completely<br />
unlinked association (except in the pathways of memory) is that a local artist<br />
with the stage name of Eskew Reeder (pron. ‘SQ Rita’) once had a hit<br />
tune called ‘Green Door.’ His stage persona and costumes would later<br />
become the model for one Richard Penniman (a/k/a ‘Little Richard’).<br />
(The history is strong in this one, Luke.)<br />
When people outside <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> think of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, their<br />
first thought is usually of the French Quarter. If they’ve never been<br />
to the city, they don’t know about Café du Monde or Morning Call.<br />
That means they also don’t know about the simple joy of beignets<br />
(say ‘ben-YAYs’) with coffee and chicory. They also don’t know those<br />
so-close-to-being-fun moments trying to direct that finely powdered<br />
confectioner’s sugar onto the beignets. It’s more fun on a windy day.<br />
(Pro tip: Don’t wear dark clothing.)<br />
Interesting though all of that may be, it’s not part of this scene.<br />
It would have been nice to ask the residents what they knew about<br />
this building and its past, but that would have meant waking them.<br />
Better to just appreciate the moment.<br />
The Zeitgeist was strong that morning in this alleyway, and sights<br />
like this are what make the French Quarter special. You won’t find this<br />
kinda stuff on any other Bayou. Stick with me and I’ll tell you a bit more<br />
… let’s begin our journey, yes?<br />
002
003
Spider Lilies – 11 December 1991<br />
In a small area next to Jax Brewery was something I can only<br />
describe as an ‘accidental garden.’ It may have been planted and tended,<br />
but it gave the appearance of being a collection of plant life that arose<br />
spontaneously in place.<br />
At first, I didn’t see much to the arrangement. Looking more closely,<br />
it became obvious this was a Study In Life and Death in one grouping.<br />
The lily at far left was in full bloom; the one at top right was in its dotage,<br />
and the one at bottom right was past its ‘Best When Used By’ date. That<br />
created an entirely different context for what, on its surface, appeared to<br />
be nothing more than a few accidental flowers growing next to a former<br />
brewery in the French Quarter.<br />
The light was low, and provided the conditions for a triple exposure.<br />
This happens only in our imagination, yes? Yes, but …<br />
004
005
Jackson Square – 12 December 1991<br />
This was the vision that greeted me on a pre-Christmas visit to<br />
the French Quarter to view the premier iconographic elements there,<br />
St. Louis Cathedral and Andrew Jackson on his horse. Both are woven<br />
deeply into the threads of the city’s history. It’s probably not possible<br />
to grow up in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> and remain unaware of these works.<br />
Even if it’s just a quick visit to the Quarter, you’ll see them as you look for<br />
a parking spot. If you’re at Morning Call or Café du Monde,<br />
you’ll see them. Walking around Jackson Square admiring the<br />
work of the local artists, or sitting to have your caricature done?<br />
You’ll see them. They’re the subjects of paintings, drawings, jewelry,<br />
photography, or any other medium you choose. They’ve been done –<br />
and overdone. They’ll continue to be done. They’re on the list of things<br />
you take for granted when you grow up with them.<br />
Even though The Presbytère and The Cabildo bracket<br />
St. Louis Cathedral, they don’t demand the same degree of attention.<br />
One reason may be that their size isn’t as imposing. The more relevant<br />
reason may be that the Cathedral has deeper, more personal, roots<br />
in the community. People don’t get married at The Cabildo or at<br />
The Presbytère, but they do at the Cathedral. Christenings take place<br />
there, as does the Red Mass for the legal community. Jackson Square.<br />
View once, remember many …<br />
006
007
Assemblage des Antiquités – 11 December 1991<br />
On a side street next to what used to be Jax Brewery (a/k/a ‘Jackson<br />
Brewing Company’) was a long line of what are generally referred<br />
to as ‘antique’ automobiles. I imagine they were part of a parade or<br />
celebration later that day. Since they were parked, I didn’t need to<br />
worry that they’d move, or complain about the sun being in their eyes.<br />
Jax Brewery by this time was no longer the brewery that I knew and<br />
remembered from the days when I played music in the French Quarter.<br />
I could walk to my car after the club closed and take in the ‘smellstream’<br />
floating on the morning air. The mixed aromas of French bread baking,<br />
coffee roasting, and the unmistakable smell of beer brewing commingle<br />
to establish an olfactory memory that stays with you long beyond the<br />
time of its creation.<br />
The brewery which once operated at this location had become<br />
a retail mall. Tower Records and Bookstar now occupied the space where<br />
once beer-making equipment stood. Ice cream was dispensed from cold<br />
marble slabs, and sandwiches were eaten in the shadows of history.<br />
Joni Mitchell anticipated things like this early on when she wrote the line:<br />
“You don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone … ”<br />
008
009
Rex – 01 September 1991<br />
Remember ‘Silver Streak,’ with Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor?<br />
Yes? Good. Remember the scene where they walk into the cell and<br />
Richard Pryor tells everyone that “We bad. That’s right. We bad.”<br />
In a nutshell, that’s the attitude presented by Rex, The King of Chairs.<br />
He rules the domain of this antique shop and his small square of<br />
sidewalk. The cow skull is just for good measure in case his status is<br />
challenged by The Lesser Chairs.<br />
True, it could be argued this is only a big chair with a cow skull<br />
on its seat, and it needs a bit of ‘fixin’ up.’ That would be right, but<br />
it wouldn’t be N’Awlins … That. Would. Be. Boring.<br />
The chair and skull create a sense of ‘otherworldliness’ designed<br />
to make viewers curious enough to become enchanted by other items<br />
on display outside or, if they’re brave enough – beyond the door, in the<br />
Mystical Depths Of The Inky Shadows. That’s where the magic lives.<br />
010
011
A Perfectly Good Baby – 03 July 1990<br />
What was your first response when you viewed this image?<br />
Mmm-hmm. That’s what I suspected. It’s not the kind of thing<br />
you see every day, is it? It’s the sort of juxtaposition that creates a<br />
‘Whaaa... ?’ response. At first glance, it looks like someone has abandoned<br />
a baby in its stroller, yes? Yes.<br />
This July day, I had lunch at Buster’s restaurant and was walking off<br />
a plate of red beans, rice, and sausage. Buster was a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> legend<br />
and a stand-up kind of guy. People down on their luck could walk into<br />
his restaurant and say to him ‘Buster, I’m hungry, but I don’t have no money’ –<br />
he’d fix them a plate of food and tell them to ‘catch me up later.’<br />
An apocryphal Buster legend tells of the time he was attacked from<br />
behind and struck in the head with a hatchet while getting in his car<br />
one night. He put a beatdown on the perp, bloodied him up, put him<br />
in the back seat, drove him to the French Quarter police station,<br />
and drove himself to Charity Hospital – with the hatchet in his head<br />
the entire time. True or not, it’s a great story.<br />
Back to the baby carriage: Walking closer and doing a quick<br />
check to ensure there was no ‘Baby On Board,’ I concluded it had<br />
been abandoned by a homeless person. The blue plastic bag held<br />
a random collection of unwashed clothing and other paraphernalia<br />
(no, not that kind of paraphernalia). Having taken a few images for<br />
posterity, it became necessary to resume the Post-Prandial Walkabout<br />
so the meal and its calories didn’t relocate to the waistband …<br />
012
013
St. Louis Cathedral & Presbytère<br />
– 21 November 1991 –<br />
Flanking the opposite side of St. Louis Cathedral from the Cabildo<br />
and fronting on Jackson Square is the Presbytère. It dates to the same<br />
reconstruction period as the Cabildo, which followed the fires of 1788<br />
and 1794. The Presbytère was designed to be a virtual visual and<br />
architectural ‘bookend’ to the Cabildo.<br />
Although the structure was originally known as the Casa Curial<br />
(Ecclesiastical House), its name derives from the fact that it was constructed<br />
on the site of the residence, or presbytère, of the Capuchin monks.<br />
The address of The Presbytère is 751 Chartres St., Jackson Square.<br />
If you want to go inside, it’ll set you back $6 for adults and $5 for seniors,<br />
students, and active military. Children 12 and under are admitted free.<br />
A day like this is perfect for visiting Jackson Square, The Cabildo,<br />
and The Presbytère. Look closely at the items near the cast iron fencing<br />
and you’ll see the materials set out by an artist to be ready for the<br />
arrival of the crowd. When you need a break, there’s coffee and chicory<br />
not too far away … I think you’ll find some beignets there, too.<br />
014
015
Exact Change Only – 15 August 1991<br />
Canal Street and Carondelet Street. A rainy afternoon. Hot, muggy,<br />
sweaty, and messy. The street car you’ve been waiting for finally arrives.<br />
You look forward to boarding, to getting out of the constant drizzle.<br />
You need to have Exact Change Only. That’s NORTA’s rule. NORTA<br />
is the abbreviation for the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Regional Transit Authority.<br />
They set the rules; they decide who rides – and doesn’t. The young<br />
couple counting their change before boarding may be among the lucky<br />
ones. They may get to board the streetcar. They may be able to sit for<br />
a while until they arrive at their stop. They may be able to relax a bit –<br />
but that all depends on whether they have Exact Change Only.<br />
Out of view in this image is a display window for what was once<br />
one of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>’ larger and better-known booksellers, Siler’s Books.<br />
Its windows featured nicely-lettered signs next to displays of books.<br />
There was only once anything in their window was out of character. It<br />
was a hand-lettered sign displayed on an easel; quite well-done, with a<br />
steady hand on the brush. There was only one problem with it, and it<br />
caused it to miss its target audience. What was that problem, you ask?<br />
The sign’s simple message told viewers to ‘Learn To Read.’<br />
016
017
The Assistant Operator – 07 November 1991<br />
Streetcars. Ya love ’em or ya hate ’em. They rock and sway from<br />
side to side and go a-trundlin’ down the tracks, making a dull metallic<br />
‘click-click’ as steel wheels roll over steel rails. Occasionally, a driver<br />
thinks he can beat a streetcar to the crossing – and loses. Best of all is the<br />
whiff of ozone every time the catenary goes ‘POOF!’ I know – ozone is<br />
a poisonous gas. Your point is … ? It’s part of the Streetcar Experience.<br />
You know the drill: “Ya pays yer money and takes yer chances.” Remember to<br />
ask for a transfer when you board, okay?<br />
This particular pre-Christmas evening near the Riverwalk saw<br />
the streetcar known as ‘The Red Lady’ parked at its station.<br />
Never having imaged this car, its immobility was welcome.<br />
A lack of passengers was more than I could have hoped for.<br />
The interior of the car was open and visible, with no riders blocking the<br />
view. The only occupants of the ‘Red Lady’ were its Operator and a<br />
civilian ‘advisor,’ who was quite unshy about providing advice that was,<br />
more than likely, unneeded. I didn’t intrude on their training session.<br />
Even tho’ it was still a month and change away from Christmas,<br />
it was the right time to be at the Riverwalk. I would have regretted<br />
missing this opportunity.<br />
018
019
French Market Christmas Garlic<br />
– 12 December 1992 –<br />
A December morning at the French Market in 1992 was made<br />
just a little bit brighter by the sight of netting filled with garlic pods<br />
and tied off with a bright red Christmas ribbon. Who wouldn’t like to<br />
find a stockingful of garlic with their name on it? Why, garlic is good<br />
with everything. Use it in oyster dressing. Put some in turkey soup made<br />
the day after Christmas. Cut off the tops and drizzle a bit of olive oil<br />
over the pods before sprinkling them with salt and putting ’em in the<br />
oven to slow-roast. Buy some right now. Buy plenty – then buy about<br />
a half-dozen more as gifts. It’s the gift that keeps on giving, isn’t it?<br />
Christmas garlic – it’s another of the unique <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> sights you’ll<br />
never see anywhere else.<br />
020
021
Le Chat Noir – 12 November 1991<br />
While not strictly in the French Quarter, the Bywater District of<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> is, as it’s said, ‘close enough for jazz.’<br />
I was collecting images in the Bywater of subjects to be posted<br />
on a now-defunct site called DeadSofa.com. It featured pictures of sofas<br />
and other furnitures, and told fictional tales about how they became<br />
‘street dwellers.’ Exactly where this house was located is lost to memory,<br />
but that’s irrelevant. What’s relevant is the unanticipated entry of<br />
Le Chat Noir. That day, the old phrase ‘If it wasn’t for bad luck,<br />
I wouldn’t have no luck at all’ was far off in the distance.<br />
Almost ready to press the shutter, what to my wondering eyes should<br />
appear but Le Chat Noir. I don’t know where this cat came from,<br />
but it had added just the right amount of ‘creep factor’ and implied<br />
‘I Got Your Bad Luck Right Here.’<br />
It made old blues lyrics go on ‘autoplay,’ where a line like<br />
‘I got a black cat bone’ precedes ‘I got a mojo too’ before going on to brag<br />
about having a ‘Black John the Conqueroo’ and finishes by telling the listener<br />
‘I’m gonna mess with you.’ Where else but in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> would a little<br />
black cat cause that kind of response? See how creepy Life’s Bayou can<br />
be if you get out of the boat … ? Stay in the boat. Stay. In. The. Boat …<br />
and remember to press the shutter release, okay?<br />
022
023
024
The CBD & Mid-City<br />
__________________________________________<br />
Where Excitement Rules The Day<br />
025
Bus Stop Truth – 31 May1999<br />
Such a nice day it was … slightly cool, light breeze, blue skies,<br />
feathery clouds – what’s not to like? On my way down the Bayou to<br />
the French Quarter, I noticed this innocuous yet insightful little sign<br />
speaking Bus Stop Truth. Look at the construction of the bus stop.<br />
There’s nothing to keep vehicles from splashing water and everything<br />
it contains onto the waiting riders. That’s what Tide’s talkin’ about.<br />
Simple. Direct. Buy Tide. You’ll need it. You know you will.<br />
After a suitable amount of time spent admiring a simple message<br />
simply delivered, I composed the image. The background was a perfect<br />
complement to the day, the sign, and the lighting.<br />
The tall building in the background of this image was called<br />
the Plaza Tower on Howard Avenue. Conceived by the man<br />
referred to as the Father of Downtown Development, Sam J. Recile,<br />
Plaza Tower opened in 1969, becoming the tallest building in the<br />
state of Louisiana. Forty-five stories tall and designed by the architect<br />
Leonard Spangenberg, Jr., it rose to a height of five hundred and ten<br />
feet. That, in turn, required a change in the zoning height restrictions<br />
in order to allow its construction. The original plans called for it to<br />
house offices, penthouse apartments, restaurants, a bank, a health club,<br />
a heliport, and (wait for it) … an observation deck.<br />
So far as I’m aware, the structure is still in place, but it’s now called<br />
Crescent City Towers. Developer Joe Jaeger bought the building in<br />
2014, but no plans for redevelopment have been revealed yet.<br />
This simple little bus stop sign couldn’t have asked for a better or<br />
more historic background element … it just works.<br />
026
027
The Dog-Faced Boy – 21 June 1993<br />
This was in the side yard of a shop on Esplanade Avenue where<br />
I got my hair cut. After a few visits, I got to know Jules, the proprietor,<br />
and asked about the Dog-Faced Boy. It was originally a jockey statue,<br />
but that was no longer true. It had now become a ‘VouDou.’<br />
Jules said he originally placed it in the yard as an intact jockey statue.<br />
After a few days, its head was knocked off. He reattached it. The next<br />
day, it was off again. He reattached it. The following day was a repeat<br />
of the day before – head in the grass, no longer attached.<br />
Now Jules upped his game and moved into Unknown Territory.<br />
He attached a dog skull to the jockey’s body. The next day, the statue<br />
was intact. The day after that also showed no damage. The statue was<br />
never touched again once Jules attached the ‘Big Magic’ dog skull.<br />
If you need strong ju-ju to keep away the baddies, find yourself<br />
a handy dog skull. Attach it just like this. Think how much scarier this<br />
would have been with a Rottweiler skull starin’ down the bad guys …<br />
028
029
Drunk Callin’ – 26 June 1995<br />
Yeah, you right. Who hasn’t had the dubious pleasure of being<br />
awakened in the wee hours of the morning by the Drunk Caller?<br />
Being ‘drunk-dialed’ by a complete stranger is bad enough, but you can<br />
put a ‘Bayou Blasting’ on a stranger. You might be a bit more diplomatic<br />
if it’s someone you know.<br />
This now-‘retro’ pay phone on North Broad Street displayed the<br />
Primary Indicator someone had been Drunk Callin’ from the location<br />
– an empty beer bottle. It could have been put there by someone other<br />
than the caller, but I wouldn’t bet on that.<br />
There’s a quasi-redemptive quality to this booth, tho’ – it’s relatively<br />
clean. There’s no grafitti, no ‘For A Good <strong>Time</strong>’ numbers, and no rude<br />
comments advising complete strangers about where to go and what to<br />
do with certain body parts.<br />
The only important question left unsolved in this case is the one of:<br />
Was that beer a Dixie or a Falstaff … ?<br />
030
031
Lee’s Hair Styles – 08 November 1998<br />
You want to know what those white ‘X’ marks on the glass are,<br />
don’tcha? Those were left behind when the duct tape was removed after<br />
a hurricane. Which hurricane? Don’t know; probably one of too<br />
many to count. Evidently no damage was done because the glass and<br />
the security tape are still intact, and so are the burglar bars and gridding.<br />
If you look closely, a speaker and what may be an early version of<br />
a security camera are above the sign. The words on the window say<br />
there are ‘Barbers On Duty.’ There may be, but the place looked pretty<br />
tight to me. There are stretches of Life’s Bayou where security is needed.<br />
Not too far away from Lee’s is a place most <strong>New</strong> Orleanians<br />
‘of a certain age’ will remember: ‘Seafood City’ at 1826 North Broad.<br />
Lee’s, like Seafood City, wasn’t ‘very pretty,’ but both got the job done.<br />
It’d be great to have some crawfish about now …<br />
032
033
Bad Dog – 08 November 1998<br />
A few blocks further away from the ‘Drunk Calling’ phone is this<br />
welcoming communications device conveniently located next to a sign<br />
warning the caller of a Bad Dog. No indication of the species or the size<br />
– just that the dog is ‘Bad.’ Ambiguity is sometimes a good thing.<br />
Imagine, if you will, making a call to report a mugging, or to<br />
whisper ‘sweet nothings’ in someone’s ear, the whole time dealing with<br />
the background sound of an animal whose sole reason for existing is to<br />
threaten your existence. Okay, that’s a bit dramatic, maybe even over the<br />
top, but hey, it could happen! After all, no one will ever take a ‘Bad Dog’<br />
sign seriously if they only see an ‘attack chihuahua’ barking at ’em.<br />
There’s also the possibility there’s no dog at all. The sign could<br />
have been put there in order to make annoying people think twice<br />
about using the phone booth as their convenient all-day loiter spot.<br />
Could this be street-level ‘PsyOps’ … ? We’ll never know.<br />
034
035
If The Oyster Won’t Come To Baby<br />
– 12 September 1989 –<br />
At 2000 hours on a Saturday, 26 September 2015, The Pearl Oyster<br />
Bar & Restaurant, at 119 St. Charles Avenue, <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, LA closed.<br />
No drama, no fanfare. Just POOF! Gone …<br />
As I stood in front of The Pearl Oyster Bar and Restaurant this<br />
day, The Pearl’s unforgettable sign still brightened this section of the<br />
Bayou on St. Charles Avenue near Canal Street. As I was about to press<br />
the shutter release, what appeared but a man and his little boy walking<br />
toward The Pearl. I still wonder if that little boy chowed down on his<br />
first dozen ‘erstas’ with crackers, ketchup, horseradish, and lemon juice.<br />
My best memories of The Pearl are the times I ate there after playing<br />
music with Bat, Henri, Eddie, David, and Charlie. In later years, I’d stop<br />
there for a ‘breakfast po’boy’ and coffee on the way home after playing<br />
at the club on Bourbon Street.<br />
The Pearl’s traditional menu included staples like gumbo,<br />
crab cakes, and roast beef sandwiches – but it wasn’t until you ordered<br />
one of their hot pastrami sandwiches on rye with a dill pickle wedge –<br />
and a Barq’s root beer – that you appreciated what they did with food.<br />
Good night, Ms. Marie, wherever you are.<br />
036
037
Kolb’s – Memories of Fine Dining<br />
– 12 September 1989 –<br />
This is a ‘bookend’ to the previous image. After The Pearl,<br />
I moved over to frame up the sign at Kolb’s Restaurant, formerly the<br />
premier German restaurant in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. The original attraction<br />
was this sign, the boarded-up windows, and the light fixtures, with<br />
perspective leading to the Southern Savings building located, to use a<br />
term, ‘down da Bayou.’<br />
The gentleman with the cart had been pushing it in the street while<br />
I was framing up the shot. It was only as he drew nearer to Kolb’s and<br />
The Pearl that he moved his cart onto the sidewalk. That was probably<br />
a lot safer and a good deal easier than pushing it in the street.<br />
Kolb’s was well-known to most people in the city. This man was<br />
known only to himself. He may have been a regular at Ozanam Inn on<br />
Camp Street, or a new arrival in town from places unknown. Whatever<br />
his origin, he wheeled his worldly possessions in the shopping cart.<br />
There may be an analogy to be made between the boards at Kolb’s<br />
and the boarded-up opportunities leading to this man’s presence in <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> that day. I can’t craft one. Sometimes the WordWell runs dry.<br />
This is one of those times.<br />
038
039
Canal Street – 13 June 1992<br />
This image began life as a ‘grab shot’ I took on my way to<br />
somewhere else in June of 1992. I took it to record a piece of the<br />
city I knew wouldn’t be there forever. You know what it’s like trying<br />
to remember what ‘used to be there’ once it’s gone, yes? Yes.<br />
This was taken as a ‘remember when’ memory-jogging image.<br />
Only later did I notice it was more than a ‘grab shot.’ In the<br />
background, almost unnoticed, was a pivot point in the city’s and<br />
the nation’s conjoined histories. The old Woolworth’s building had<br />
been the location for the first locally-organised lunch counter sit-in.<br />
Year: 1960. Month: September. Date: 9th. Location: Woolworth’s,<br />
1031 Canal Street at North Rampart Street. After a demonstration<br />
starting at 1030, it was shut down by a sit-in at the lunch counter<br />
at 1230. Fast forward: October, 2014 – the demolition of Woolworth’s<br />
took place to make way for a $70 million luxury apartment complex.<br />
I wonder if people in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> today still remember this<br />
Woolworth’s, its lunch counter, that ‘long ago and far away’ day,<br />
and the history that was played out then upon its stage.<br />
040
041
Every Panel Tells A Story, Don’t It?<br />
– 12 August 1994 –<br />
On the way home from downtown, the drive down Poydras Street<br />
took me directly in front of the former Maylie’s Restaurant. It opened in<br />
1876 as Maylie & Esparbe, Inc., making it one of the oldest restaurants<br />
in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. After Maylie’s closed, the building later became a<br />
Smith & Wollensky steakhouse which, in its turn, also closed.<br />
A wee bit of Maylie’s later history: After the restaurant’s main<br />
building fell victim to street widening in the late ’50s, all that was left<br />
was the two-story frame building, the bar, the dining room of sixty seats,<br />
and the first floor kitchen. The image at right shows a small detail<br />
of how it looked about eleven years after its closure in 1983.<br />
The ‘hurricane only’ panels were now at the end of their useful life.<br />
The most interesting parts of the exterior were the separate ‘panel’<br />
areas created by the windowing, the transoms, and the lamp glass.<br />
Since they provided ready-made frame segments, it was easy to create a<br />
‘two-fer.’ The ‘picture-in-picture’ paneling allowed insertion of many<br />
other images of the city – almost a reflection of the later life and times<br />
of Maylie’s over the years. Not exactly a one-to-one representation,<br />
but it’s all <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> in each panel. Life’s Bayou keeps on flowin’ …<br />
042
043
The Feasting – 05 March 1994<br />
Delgado Community College isn’t exactly what would be considered<br />
Mid-City or the CBD, but it’s close enough for government work.<br />
It sits across Marconi Drive from City Park on City Park Avenue,<br />
and it had this outside sculpture exhibition presented by its students.<br />
I don’t know what the design specs for this project were,<br />
but they appear to have given students pretty wide latitude. This piece,<br />
even while remaining a mystery, is one I really like. It has a great<br />
‘Rohrschach’ quality in the form of the ‘bird’ or ‘beast’ – whatever it’s<br />
supposed to be. The surface appears to have been crazed by fire, either<br />
naturally-occurring or artifically applied. It’s a great textural effect.<br />
The accompaniments (side dishes?) on the ‘table’ fit the mysterious<br />
mood created by the central ‘ju-ju’ figure. Any threads of commonality<br />
seem to have gone missing, but that’s not a problem. In any<br />
‘waking dream’ piece, logical linkage is always the first casualty.<br />
The student who created this had a keen eye – and an understanding of<br />
what it means to be from the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> stretch of the Bayou …<br />
044
045
Popp Fountain – 15 September 1992<br />
Designed by the Olmsted Brothers in the late 1920s, Popp Fountain<br />
was dedicated in 1934. Rebecca Grant Popp donated $25,000 for<br />
a memorial to honor her husband, John F. Popp. The WPA added the<br />
tile walkways and landscaping; the art deco fountainhead was designed<br />
by Enrique Alférez.<br />
By the 1970s, though, Popp Fountain and the surrounding area had<br />
been neglected for a long time, and it showed. The area was unfenced,<br />
and there was no water supply to the fountain. This is how it appeared<br />
in City Park in 1992. It wasn’t a pretty sight to behold, but there were<br />
still hints of its former beauty if you looked. That, however, all changed<br />
for the better with the passage of time.<br />
Popp Fountain in City Park underwent significant restoration, and<br />
the 12 acres around the fountain are now fenced in. The fountain’s<br />
waters now flow again, and the Arbor Room has been added.<br />
The outstanding renovation of Popp’s Fountain in City Park is one of<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>’ success stories – and it was done up very right.<br />
046
047
The Whole Nine Yards – 21 October 1992<br />
Imagine being the gunner standing at this window. Imagine the<br />
Focke-Wulf 190s or Me-109s coming at you, bright flashes flickering<br />
from wing guns and nose cannon. Imagine maneuvering your weapon<br />
in a space about six feet wide, with another gunner so close behind<br />
that you can touch him. Imagine doing all this wearing heavy clothing<br />
and gloves. It’s cold at 36,000 feet.<br />
Those were some of the thoughts I had looking through this window<br />
on a day with none of those threats. I’m still amazed it was so cramped.<br />
This air show was presented by the ‘Confederate Air Force’ (which was<br />
later changed to become the ‘Commemorative Air Force.’)<br />
The B-17 carried a ‘useful bombload’ at a service ceiling of 36,000<br />
feet for ten hours, with a top speed of at least 200 mph. Other details:<br />
Armament of twelve .50 caliber machine guns, a maximum bomb<br />
load of 20,000 pounds, and a fuel load of 2,780 gallons (3,600 gallons<br />
with bomb bay tanks). The rumor is that those twenty-seven-foot-long<br />
ammunition belts for the .50s gave us our term ‘the whole nine yards.’<br />
This air show was at <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>’ Lakefront Airport, the eastern<br />
counterpoint to Moisant International Airport. Joining the B-17 on<br />
the tarmac that day were a B-24, an A-1 ‘Skyraider,’ and too many others<br />
to remember. If one happened to have a spare $300 with him,<br />
a flight around the city in these craft could be had. If only …<br />
048
049
Tubaville – 04 April 1999<br />
Technically, this isn’t the CBD or Mid-City area of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
It’s the window of a pawn shop on either Jackson Avenue or Louisiana<br />
Avenue at Magazine Street. The instruments and the building reflected<br />
in the glass each display the endpoint of high use and low maintenance.<br />
That, tho’, isn’t necessarily a bad thing.<br />
The tubas, trombones, and other instruments in the pawn shop<br />
once upon a time made the thing that people call ‘a joyous noise’ in<br />
the course of their existence. Now they sit silently, waiting for new futures<br />
playing old music.<br />
The house may once have been the site of grand parties or funeral<br />
wakes. My first experience with an in-home wake came when I was<br />
eight or so. The deceased’s coffin rested on two two-by-fours laid across<br />
sawhorses in the front room. What appeared to my young eyes to be<br />
hundreds of votive candles were placed throughout the front room, taking<br />
the place of electric lights. Veiled ladies dressed in black sat and wept,<br />
or remembered shared life experiences with the deceased. It’s just how<br />
things are done – Life and Death, holding hands as they drift together<br />
down Life’s Bayou toward the waiting Gulf …<br />
Tubas are heavy instruments. They’re also bulky. Carrying one<br />
in a parade can’t be a lot more fun than carrying the bass drum.<br />
The tuba’s heavier, but the bass drum’s bulkier. It projects out in front<br />
of you and its weight pulls you forward as you walk. Try doing that<br />
marching in formation sometime – don’t ask how I know these things.<br />
Every now and then, I wonder if any of those instruments were<br />
owned by someone who lived in that house.<br />
050
051
Do Not Park – 22 September 1992<br />
It would be wonderful if the location of this sign and this building<br />
in the CBD was remembered but, alas and alack, that memory is no<br />
more. What remains is this round-corner edging brickwork – and<br />
The Mysterious Sign.<br />
When you look at the old brick buildings of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,<br />
their corners are of the ‘must-be-right, can’t-be-wrong’ right-angle<br />
school. Squared-off. Precise. Angular. Geometric. Their shape is<br />
based on one of the Platonic solids (also called the regular solids,<br />
or regular polyhedra). There are five solids: the cube, dodecahedron,<br />
icosahedron, octahedron, and tetrahedron. Be grateful the cube won.<br />
Imagine your house built as a dodecahedron.<br />
This ostensibly simple column probably took them no longer to<br />
construct than its square-cornered cousins. The rounded edging would<br />
have been specified by the architect. It’s always a matter of making<br />
a tasteful choice, isn’t it?<br />
Surprise, and a bit of disappointment, enters into the picture when<br />
y’ think of how many buildings could have benefited from softer lines<br />
with the use of this round-edged bricking.<br />
Meanwhile, the question of what to not park in front of has been<br />
forcibly erased from the signage. It will remain forever unanswered.<br />
Someone was aggravated enough by this directive to use a chisel as their<br />
‘removal tool of choice.’<br />
052
053
Author’s Note:<br />
This section does not display many of the more well-known ‘tourist’ cemeteries.<br />
It concentrates on those cemeteries I grew to know fairly well over time.<br />
Holt Cemetery quickly became my favorite <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> cemetery.<br />
The unifying theme of all cemeteries is remembrance.<br />
This is done well in all of them shown here.<br />
054
Cemeteries<br />
__________________________________________<br />
“And therefore<br />
as a stranger give it welcome.<br />
There are more things<br />
in heaven and earth, Horatio,<br />
than are dreamt of in your philosophy.”<br />
Hamlet, Act I, Scene 5<br />
055
Better Keep It Clean – 24 January 1991<br />
This is the sight that greeted me on my first visit to Holt Cemetery.<br />
I liked it. Simple. Direct. The message had immediate clarity, much<br />
like that of the Talking Heads’ lyrics to ‘Life During Wartime’:<br />
“This ain’t no party / This ain’t no disco / This ain’t no fooling around”…<br />
It was also effective, as the graves at Holt were always well-maintained.<br />
It wasn’t unusual to see people removing old wooden coping or markers<br />
and replacing them with new ones – which led to many conversations …<br />
On this afternoon, a gentleman was in the bed of his truck throwing<br />
old coping into a dumpster. We talked for a bit, and he mentioned<br />
two roosters that lived on the property. I told him the groundskeeping<br />
crew had named them ‘Big George’ and ‘Little George.’ He looked<br />
at me incredulously for a second or so before saying “But that can’t be!<br />
MY name is George!” Every visit to Holt had its own special moment.<br />
The people I met at Holt were gracious and provided context<br />
to the inscriptions on many of the markers that are otherwise inscrutable.<br />
Their assistance gave me greater understanding of – and appreciation<br />
for – the people and histories interred there. Unlike most cemeteries,<br />
Holt doesn’t fit neatly into that ‘City Of The Dead’ category – it’s still<br />
a celebration-in-progress of the lives that are remembered there.<br />
056
057
Litanie des Saintes – 09 December 1993<br />
Of all the images I’ve taken at Holt Cemetery, this is my favorite.<br />
It’s difficult to pick just one that stands out more than the rest, but<br />
this one made the cut. Simple in its composition, sincere in its expression,<br />
it displays a bit more ‘staying power’ than most remembrances in the<br />
cemetery. In Holt’s unique ‘Land of Dreams,’ it has a special place.<br />
Tie up the pirogue; let’s walk the banks of Life’s Bayou for a second.<br />
The marker may look more like a cricket bat than a memorial<br />
with a cross at top, but to think that would be to make a mistake.<br />
The arms of its cross long ago broke off to give the impression of a<br />
‘handle’ at top. Look closely; a remnant of the painted text that once<br />
read from left to right across the bar still appears in truncated form.<br />
The headless statues are enigmatic. They display no name for<br />
a particular saint or person. Like many in the graves without markers,<br />
they too have become the Unknowns. They are also the Unknowables,<br />
having become anonymized by <strong>Time</strong>.<br />
Visible but out of focus at the very bottom is a decaying ribbon<br />
barely attached to a broken vase once used to hold artificial flowers.<br />
All are sun-bleached by exposure over time. The text on the marker<br />
will eventually disappear, and the anonymization will become complete.<br />
For those moments I was in its presence, a small remnant of individuality<br />
still flickered across the wood. Sic transit gloria mundi …<br />
058
059
The Holt Indian – 09 May 1999<br />
This Indian may no longer be on display at Holt. It was always<br />
to the immediate right of the entry to the cemetery proper, and to<br />
the right side of a bust of an individual named Bras-Coupé, the<br />
literal translation of which is ‘cut-off arm.’ That was the fictional name<br />
of a slave named Squire who lived in Louisiana until his death in 1837.<br />
He was an entertainer, and his master allowed him to travel. After<br />
many attempts to escape, he was captured in 1834 by a planters’<br />
patrol, which amputated his right arm as punishment. He continued<br />
to run away, and eventually organized a gang of escaped slaves and<br />
sympathetic whites (almost unheard of in the 1830s). They robbed<br />
stores, merchants, and plantations. He survived being shot by hunters<br />
in 1837, but a former ally named Francisco García bludgeoned<br />
him to death with a club in order to claim a reward for $2,000.00.<br />
That’s the short version of the story.<br />
Unfortunately, it does nothing to identify this person in full<br />
buckskins. I like to think it’s Bras-Coupé before his arm was removed.<br />
Could that be right? I don’t know – and the statues aren’t telling.<br />
060
061
Bishop C. M. Grace – 21 November 1992<br />
This marker for Bishop C. M. Grace is one of the very few<br />
professionally-made marble headstones at Holt Cemetery. It’s also one<br />
of the most opaque information sets of all the markers on the property.<br />
The text gives the deceased’s name, his dates of birth and death,<br />
and a memorialization that reads as code. “Marvelous, Magnetic,<br />
Majestic, Uncle Louie Loves Pa All Is Well.”<br />
What does it all mean? Who is Uncle Louie? Could ‘Pa’ be an<br />
abbreviation for ‘Pennsylvania’ … ? The term ‘cryptic’ is applicable<br />
to this marker. It’s one of those things first acknowledged as ‘curious’<br />
when seen, but which later creeps around the edge of the subconscious,<br />
looking for meaning and finding none. It reads unlike any Bible verse<br />
the departed may have liked in life, and points toward no answer.<br />
This will, for me, always remain one of Holt’s Great Secrets.<br />
Remember those annoying commercials from the T&V that yell out<br />
“But WAIT! There’s MORE!” … ? No. There’s not. Turn the page.<br />
062
063
A Seed Of Ham – 02 January 1993<br />
“Hammurabi Sendeth You A Stone” … so reads the inscription that<br />
bends beneath the arc of the tiny white marker on the grave of<br />
Rev. John Washington, Sr., not too distant from the front gate of<br />
Holt Cemetery. The marker says he was “A Decendent Of San<br />
Bernardo Settlement.” I make no claim to understand that reference.<br />
Family members and relatives probably know the meaning.<br />
The empy rectangle under the inscriptions could indicate an<br />
image or representation of the deceased to be viewed once displayed.<br />
<strong>Time</strong>, however, has removed it from view. Another element worth noting<br />
is the empty sheared rectangle under the ‘Hammurabi’ inscription.<br />
There are a few other elements on Rev. Washington’s grave.<br />
At top right – but not included in this image – is a small concrete pyramid<br />
of three (or four) levels. It bears the All-Seeing Eye on a side which faces<br />
the marker shown here. Its pyramidal form is rotated so as to be at<br />
a 45° angle to the corner of the cement top. The marker shown<br />
is surprisingly small, perhaps only 5 inches or so in height. Like that of<br />
Bishop Grace, those who know them know the cryptology.<br />
064
065
Art Smith’s Place, Holt Cemetery<br />
– 09 September 1993 –<br />
Holt Cemetery is one of the lesser-known jewels in the crown<br />
of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. A potter’s field established in 1879, it’s next to Delgado<br />
Community College at 527 City Park Avenue. Holt is unique when<br />
compared with other <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> cemeteries – its burials take place<br />
below-ground, not in above-ground tombs. Ownership of the plot<br />
stays with the family so long as the plot is properly maintained.<br />
The site shown here was maintained by a gentleman named<br />
Art Smith, a truly unique person. I saw Art from time to time when<br />
I visited Holt. We’d talk for a few minutes before getting back to our<br />
separate reasons for being there.<br />
During one conversation, I asked Art about the Xeroxed images<br />
under Visqueen in assorted picture frames around the site. I asked first<br />
if the lady in the pictures was his wife. Art said no, those were pictures<br />
of his mother. I next asked if the gentleman in the frames was his father.<br />
He said no, those were pictures of himself. Being more than a bit<br />
confused, I pointed out that we were standing there talking, and<br />
asked why he had framed images of himself on the grave. His answer<br />
was classic Art: “Well, I just wanted to see how it’ll look before I go in it.”<br />
Worked for him, works for me … Art’s place was never the same from<br />
one visit to the next because he was always finding new objects to display<br />
– like these chairs …<br />
066
067
Black Beauty – 13 September 1992<br />
In Loving Momory of Willie Jerome Clark<br />
Born April 7,1966 / Died September 7, 1992<br />
Lays In Peace beside his Ralatives.<br />
So reads the memorialization written in black Sharpie on a papiermaché<br />
marker that’s perhaps a foot or so high and would probably<br />
remain intact for a month or two before being reduced by the elements<br />
to its constituents and returned to the earth. This marker was placed<br />
to remember the 26-year-old victim of a shooting. The pencilled text<br />
inside the continent of Africa reads as follows:<br />
On Sept 7, 1992 a 26 year old man was sian in the 1400 block of Milton St.<br />
of multiple gun wound in the St Bernard Development. Shortly after 9pm office found<br />
my son lying face up in between two building my Ralative at the scene identified my<br />
son Willie Jerome Clark III to my acknowledge my son was rob I was told he was<br />
fighting with one person when the other persons took his life. Shot him in his head he<br />
die instantly. I Willie mother Lateefah Imani Ahmad Polk hurt for my child very<br />
much, that he was taking that way. But God know best and now he lay in peace and<br />
in my deepest memberance as a mother, my concern is I pray to God they get these<br />
kind of people off the street for the sake of other victim, so they would be safe to walk<br />
and live and don’t have to fear their lifes in these matter upon this earth from monster<br />
thinking people who rob others of their lifes.<br />
By Lateefah Imani Ahmad Polk<br />
In concern of her son Willie Jerome Clark<br />
068
069
She Is Go – 02 December 1993<br />
There are many markers in Holt Cemetery. Most of them, with<br />
the exception of marble government-issue military service markers<br />
and some others made of stone, are usually made of organic materials<br />
like plywood, barge board, papier maché, and occasionally flat-poured<br />
concrete, the memorialization written with a fingertip.<br />
This marker for a lady named Lilly Bell is one of the more poignant<br />
and durable markers at Holt. It’s also difficult to photograph because<br />
there are usually flowers held by a wire frame that obstructs the text.<br />
On this day, the text was fully visible. Flowers were there, but no frame.<br />
The sentiment is heartfelt. The marker’s sturdy construction<br />
shows a great deal of time, thought, and effort was put into ensuring<br />
it would be as good as it could be. The ruled lines ensure the text is<br />
evenly spaced and on the same line; the ball-and-stick letterforms<br />
ensure ease of reading. The spelling is phonetic, as it’s pronounced.<br />
The dates for some are missing, but that’s true of many markers at<br />
Holt. I’d like to think this marker survived Katrina’s visit to the city<br />
in 2005. Maybe it did. A lot of pirogues capsized during that time,<br />
but y’ have to keep paddlin’ as long as you’re in it … let’s push off again.<br />
070
071
Dorthy Jagkson – 13 September 1993<br />
Toward the back of the circular drive of Holt Cemetery is a plain,<br />
unassuming marker. The name impressed into its concrete is that of<br />
Miss Dorthy Jagkson. The shape of the marker, tho’, is what makes<br />
it memorable. It’s formed in the shape of a Gingerbread Man –<br />
or Gingerbread Lady, as it were. The spelling, although unusual, may be<br />
the way her last name was really spelled. It may also be the way it was<br />
pronounced, with letters pressed deep into the form while it was still wet.<br />
No matter the spelling or the pronunciation, this undated little<br />
headstone is one of the single most charming pieces of Headstone As<br />
Art on the property. Its stubby little ‘arms’ appear to give a welcoming<br />
hug to the occupant whose name it displays. Its ‘cookie-cutter’ shape<br />
implies the person memorialised may have been somewhat young.<br />
It does, after all, give the distinct impression of a small and friendly<br />
‘person’ who wants to reach out, grab your hand, and play with you.<br />
See how that ‘anthropomorphic’ thing works? There I go, projecting<br />
all sorts of human qualities onto an inanimate object. Don’t laugh –<br />
you’re going to do the same thing. Yes you will. I know you will.<br />
You’re doing it even as you read this. So there. Let’s paddle on<br />
down the Bayou now, shall we?<br />
072
073
Jessie ‘Ooh Poo Pah Doo’ Hill<br />
– 25 November 1997 –<br />
Among <strong>New</strong> Orleanians who came of age – so to speak – in the<br />
1960s, there are probably only a handful who never heard of Jessie Hill<br />
or ‘Ooh Poo Pah Doo.’ What were the lyrics to ‘Ooh Poo Pah Doo’?<br />
Who knew? Who cared? It was funky; it was cool. It was mos’ scoscious,<br />
the Party <strong>Time</strong> Music of Life’s Bayou. Its lyrics, if known, were usually<br />
those that said ‘And I won’t stop tryin’ / ’til I create a disturbance in your mind.’<br />
Any other lyrics were just lagniappe.<br />
The afternoon I came upon Jessie’s marker, it looked almost new.<br />
The shape and coloration that make it distinctive obviously took<br />
a good deal of time and planning. It was relatively pristine then,<br />
but wouldn’t stay that way for long.<br />
Jessie’s marker was 180 degrees from the position seen here.<br />
The background in that direction was a wire hurricane fence.<br />
I repositioned it to provide a background with the marker bright and<br />
front-lit instead of shadowed and back-lit. It was rotated, photographed,<br />
and rotated back to its original position. No problem. The background<br />
was now right for the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> funk legend who’s probably still<br />
creating a disturbance in someone’s mind somewhere …<br />
074
075
Bong Son, ’67 – 11 November 1993<br />
Garden of Memories on Airline Highway in Metairie, LA was<br />
the site of the first visit to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> by the VietNam Moving Wall<br />
exhibition in 1993. It opened to hundreds, and eventually thousands,<br />
of attendees. The drive to the event was along the Avenue of Flags,<br />
each bearing a service member’s name. To say a visit to the Wall is a<br />
moving experience is to engage in the highest form of understatement.<br />
Attendees could visit a tent maintained by the local chapter of<br />
VietNam Veterans of America (‘VVA’). There, they could look up names<br />
of service members and locate that section of the Wall bearing the name<br />
they sought. The name I checked doesn’t appear on the Wall.<br />
It takes a long time to walk the length of the Wall, even the reduced<br />
scale version on display. No section of the Wall lacked messages or<br />
memorabilia. The VVA provided paper and crayon for rubbings.<br />
Almost every foot of the ground behind a low line of twine guiding<br />
foot traffic along the path was covered with messages, flag, ribbons, and<br />
patches. The patch here represents the First Cavalry Division, First<br />
Squadron, Ninth Cavalry Regiment, or ‘First of the Ninth.’ The regiment<br />
was organized on 21 September 1866 in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, Louisiana, and<br />
mustered between September 1866 and 31 March 1867. The dedication<br />
patch is for the Battle of Bong Son in 1967 and a Trooper named Ty.<br />
076
077
Truth In Advertising – 12 December 1999<br />
The rarest form of humor is the unexpected humor which reveals<br />
a truth that, once exposed, is realized as having been obvious the whole<br />
time. That it’s not, wasn’t, and isn’t is even better. It’s the most inside of<br />
inside jokes, and probably generates more ‘Duh!’ moments than any other<br />
type of humor. The best part is that, once revealed, the connection can<br />
never be reversed. There’s a saying that tells us “The mind, once stretched by<br />
a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions” – and that’s especially true<br />
in this case. You can’t unthink it.<br />
This sign near the gates of Greenwood Cemetery tells all who view<br />
it that it’s an ‘Exit Only.’ One thing is quite certain about a cemetery:<br />
it functions only as an exit – never an entry.<br />
I don’t think too many visitors make this subtle connection.<br />
If the cemetery’s owners do, I applaud their perpetuation of one of the<br />
best-kept inside jokes in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> by leaving the sign exactly where<br />
it is. Life’s Bayou needs a little bit of humor, too …<br />
078
079
Talking With Jesus<br />
(On The Atomic Telephone)<br />
– 17 November 1992 –<br />
It’s not every day that you see a carefully-made tiled mosaic on the<br />
wall of a cemetery facing a bus stop. That’s one more egg in the casket<br />
of ‘Things That Make <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Special.’<br />
This pay phone ‘two-fer’ and the Mosaic Wall are at the corner<br />
of Canal Street at City Park Avenue. Cypress Grove is the cemetery<br />
immediately behind the plastered wall.<br />
The ‘Atomic Telephone’ comes into being because this mosaic<br />
of Jesus is in the vicinity of a two-pay-phone stand. That brought to<br />
mind a tune recorded in 1952 by The Spirit of Memphis Quartet titled<br />
‘The Atomic Telephone’. It only took one listen for me to be hooked.<br />
It captured the spirit of the time without invoking a fear of Imminent<br />
Nuclear Death while hiding under a school desk covering your head.<br />
If you’d like to read a bit more, here’s the discography information:<br />
http://www.crossrhythms.co.uk/articles/music/Spirit_Of_<br />
Memphis_Quartet_Tracing_the_history_of_a_classic_gospel_<br />
group/39430/p1/<br />
Although it’d be nice if this were larger, it’s easy to see how that would<br />
increase the Degree of Difficulty by at least an order of magnitude.<br />
Weight would increase, and securing it would become problematic.<br />
That being the case, let’s just enjoy the time, thought, and effort<br />
an unknown someone devoted to the creation of a very mysterious but<br />
nicely-turned-out piece of work for those who only stand and wait …<br />
080
081
Steadfast – 21 April 1993<br />
From the ‘Atomic Telephone’ outer wall of Cypress Grove Cemetery,<br />
let’s move to an ‘inside-the-walls’ memorialisation of Henrietta Sides,<br />
the wife of John Davidson. Her statue, like many others in cemeteries<br />
everywhere, shows her with her right hand resting on an anchor.<br />
What, you ask, does it mean? Did she die at sea? Possibly – but that’s<br />
only one interpretation; there are others. Need some examples?<br />
To early Christians, the anchor was a disguised cross, and also<br />
a marker guiding the way to secret meeting places. In most sea-faring<br />
areas, it can be an occupational symbol or represent Saint Nicholas,<br />
the patron saint of seamen. An anchor with a broken chain represents<br />
the cessation of life. Conversely, the anchor by itself is a representation of<br />
the hope that life goes on after death. It can also represent steadfastness<br />
in faith or the grave of a seafarer. So many symbols, so little time – and<br />
this simple anchor is only one of them.<br />
If you suspected that this might just be a double exposure, then<br />
pat yourself on the back – it is, it is!<br />
082
083
St. Expedite, Save Me Now – 07 October 1992<br />
It’s something as regular as the Change of Seasons: GothiKids<br />
performing ‘Junior VouDou’ on Hallow’een in cemeteries across<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. That, tho’, was not the case this day. This was only a<br />
‘trial run’ before their Big Day.<br />
How easily can you verify their activity on Hallow’een? Ma chér,<br />
all you got to did is walk tru’ any cemetery picked at random and look<br />
for a trail of smashed vegetables, burnt offerings, and wax candles that<br />
have the initials of the intended victim scratched into the forehead area.<br />
The ‘FauxDou’ isn’t why the GothiKids do this – they do it so<br />
they can talk a young female child into lettin’ them have their way in a<br />
spooky setting. Without going into greater detail, let’s ask the question<br />
made famous by one Miss Tina Turner: ‘What’s Love Got To Do With It?’<br />
Ablosutely nothing.<br />
This small collection of Toys From The Dark Side was discovered<br />
a few days prior to All Soul’s Day at the entrance to the Maunsel White<br />
tomb in Cypress Grove Cemetery. The partially burned red wax skull<br />
bears the initials ‘J.R.E.’ scratched into it; the St. Expedite candle is<br />
slightly used, but still contains wax. The eggplants and oranges weren’t<br />
worth including. In matters of things ‘voudou,’ St. Expedite wasn’t<br />
a major player, but historic accuracy wasn’t needed for the evening’s<br />
‘festivities.’ If you encounter these ones, ask if they’ve ever ‘performed’<br />
at the tomb of Marie LaVeaux …<br />
084
085
Birds Of The Cross – 27 November 1994<br />
This is a single-vault tomb in Greenwood Cemetery. It possesses<br />
some of the most unique ironwork I’ve seen used for any entombment.<br />
The most puzzling part of the construction is what appears to be two<br />
nesting places for birds. Could I be wrong about their purpose? Sure.<br />
Until a reliable source of information about their real purpose is found,<br />
I’ll continue to refer to them as birdhouses.<br />
The crosses are traceable to Church symbology, but different artistic<br />
renderings are applied to their three separate instances. A small cross<br />
with pointed arms sits on an iron ball atop the larger metal crosses.<br />
The birdhouse crosses are almost Escher-esque in their style. Large iron<br />
bands encircle the perforated crosses where, over time, some of the arc<br />
sections have broken off, as seen at right.<br />
There was no nameplate or other family name identifier that could<br />
be found for this vault. For now, it’ll have to remain one of the great<br />
Unsolved Mysteries of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> …<br />
086
087
The Final Muster – 27 September 1998<br />
The most distinctive and easily-viewable monument in Metairie<br />
Cemetery is the statue of General Albert Sidney Johnston atop his<br />
horse, ‘Fire Eater.’ It’s one of two works by the sculptor Alexander Doyle<br />
at the tumulus of the Army of Tennessee, Louisiana Division. The statue<br />
at the base of the tumulus represents a Confederate officer about to<br />
read the roll of those soldiers killed during the Civil War. It symbolically<br />
represents all Confederate soldiers. Burials continued in the Army of<br />
Tennessee Tumulus until December 30th, 1929, when the last Civil War<br />
survivor was buried.<br />
The most distracting elements for anyone taking pictures of<br />
the tumulus and its statuary elements are the wires in the background.<br />
They’ve been removed here, but they’re easily viewable there.<br />
For quite a long span of time, I knew almost nothing about the<br />
Army of Tennessee or the Louisiana Division. There’s a lot of history<br />
to be learned about these units. In another part of Metairie Cemetery,<br />
the tumulus for the Army of Northern Virgina hosts a statue of<br />
General Thomas ‘Stonewall’ Jackson.<br />
When you visit the tumuli, bring your camera with you – and plan to<br />
spend quite a bit of time in Photoshop making your images wire-free.<br />
Life’s Bayou doesn’t have an app for that … well, not yet.<br />
088
089
The Bird Reconsiders – 21 July 2001<br />
The Army of Northern Virginia tumulus displays this statue<br />
of General Thomas ‘Stonewall’ Jackson on a 38-foot-high column.<br />
Like General Johnston, he’s not buried within the tumulus, but in<br />
Lexington, Virginia. The bird has no historical connection I’m aware<br />
of to the history it sits atop. Sometimes it’s best to not overthink things<br />
too much; just take in the time and the place.<br />
090
091
The Light Of Wonder<br />
– 05 November 1992 –<br />
The text displayed reads that it’s dedicated to Santa Maria di<br />
Odigitria, Piana dei Greci. I know nothing about this individual, but<br />
a bit of research produced the following information, taken from the site<br />
whose URL appears below:<br />
http://sicilia.indettaglio.it/eng/comuni/pa/pianadeglialbanesi/pianadeglialbanesi.html<br />
“Originally Piana degli Albanesi was called Hora, that means<br />
town. It was founded in 1488 by a group of Albanian refugees<br />
escaped to Turkish army. King John II of Spain allowed them<br />
to occupy that place and to preserve their Greek cult so that<br />
the small town had the name of Piana dei Greci. In the times it<br />
changed into Piana degli Albanesi. Since 1941 it rises on a hill;<br />
below it there is a basin that is the cradle of an artificial lake.<br />
The most important monuments are the Cathedral Church<br />
with Greek rite and dates back to 1590; the chiesa di Santa Maria<br />
Odigitria (Church of St. Mary Odigitria) built in 1644 according<br />
to architect Pietro Novelli’s plan; the chiesa di S. Giorgio (Church<br />
of St. George), the oldest of the town, and the chiesa di S. Vito<br />
(Church of St. Vito) with an imposing portal.”<br />
This was one of the nicest – and most interesting – sites seen that day.<br />
It became a magnet on almost every visit after the first. This image, as you<br />
may have guessed, is a double exposure.<br />
092
093
Perchance To Dream – 09 March 1996<br />
The family mausoleum of Charles T. Howard in Metairie Cemetery<br />
holds a most marvelous statue. On most visits, the iron doors were<br />
chained shut, allowing only a view through their bars. On this day,<br />
the chains were unlocked. Sometimes we’re the windshield, sometimes<br />
we’re the bug. This was a ‘windshield’ kinda day.<br />
A bit of research shows that Mr. Howard was born in Baltimore,<br />
MD. He organized and became First President of the Louisiana<br />
State Lottery Company in 1869, and lived on St. Charles Avenue.<br />
In 1877, he reigned as King of the Mardi Gras Krewe known as Rex.<br />
The craftsmanship of this statue always fascinated me. To be sure,<br />
Metairie Cemetery has many statues that are finely made – this one,<br />
though, has that “je n’est ce quoi” that sets it quite apart from the others.<br />
With luck, this mausoleum was elevated enough to be unaffected<br />
by the water from Katrina that flooded Metairie Cemetery as well as<br />
others in the vicinity.<br />
When you visit Metairie Cemetery, I hope the iron doors of this<br />
mausoleum will be open for you as they were that day for me.<br />
094
095
096
Uptown & Carrollton<br />
__________________________________________<br />
Where everything’s a half-hour away<br />
from everything else …<br />
097
Caire Bears – 02 September 1992<br />
Found on the porch of a store in the ‘Antiques Section’ of<br />
Magazine Street is this basket of Cute ’n Cuddlies. Without getting<br />
too deep into the weeds of psychological terminology with ‘projection’<br />
and ‘transference,’ let’s just agree this could be used for a ‘One Of These<br />
Is Not Like The Others’ test.<br />
The stuffed animals look fairly large here, but from the sidewalk, and<br />
in a basket on a raised porch, they weren’t that easy to spot. I should have<br />
asked for a single price to buy the basket and its contents, but noooooo.<br />
That’s the kind of thing that brings on an after-the-fact Dope Slap.<br />
Over time, I thought about what name each should have.<br />
You know, like the Seven Dwarfs. ‘Dopey,’ ‘Grumpy,’ ‘Sleepy’ and<br />
the rest are all taken. Nobody wants to be a copycat, right? After<br />
all these years, I’m still trying to come up with names for them.<br />
I’m considering naming one ‘Aqua Velva Man.’ The rest need to wait<br />
their turn. On Life’s Bayou, names are most often usually ‘nice-to-know,’<br />
not ‘need-to-know’ – except sometimes when they are.<br />
098
099
Phrenology – 06 June 1999<br />
Wow! Is this thing cool or what!? I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t make the<br />
transition to a real-life tattoo, what with those lines so close to the eye<br />
and all, but a grease pencil might work.<br />
Walking in the coffee-shop area above Jefferson Avenue on Magazine<br />
Street, this tiny head’s sightless eyes stared at passersby from its place<br />
on a rack in the display window. It’s nicely-done, tho’, and it’s almost<br />
a color match for that antique ‘Blue Willow’ pattern cup and saucer<br />
next to it.<br />
When you know a bit about the premise used to justify the<br />
pseudoscience called ‘Phrenology,’ it’s easy to understand why people<br />
are such easy prey for those one who make similar claims for worthless<br />
‘treatments’ today.<br />
The term ‘phrenology’ (phreno- “mind” + -logy “study of ”) dates to<br />
1815. It was applied to the theory of mental faculties (originated by<br />
Gall and Spurzheim) that led to the 1840s mania for reading personality<br />
clues in the shape of one’s skull and the ‘bumps’ of the head.<br />
Today’s concept of self-esteem (self- + esteem) began in the 1650s,<br />
and was popularized by phrenology, which assigned it a ‘bump.’<br />
Seems it’d be a bit of a bad day if your ‘Phrenologist’ said he couldn’t<br />
find a ‘bump’ for that. Why, that could positively ruin your self-esteem<br />
(How’d y’ like the irony of using ‘positively’ with ‘ruin’?). Fortunately, Phrenology<br />
is now on the ash-heap of History. Unfortunately, its successors are<br />
even dumber. Let’s move further on down the Bayou before it returns …<br />
100
101
3th Ward – 22 June 1993<br />
On Tchoupitoulas Street near Louisiana Avenue was an old Quonset<br />
hut, and on its doors were spraypainted testimonals to the world that<br />
these individuals had made their mark in life. Right there. On the door.<br />
With spray paint. See?<br />
Oh. You saw that street name, didn’t you? Tchoupitoulas. Right.<br />
You’re wondering how it’s pronounced, aren’t you? Hint: Not like it’s<br />
spelled. Does that help? No? Well okay, then. It’s pronounced like this:<br />
chop-a-TOOL-iss. It’s an Indian word that means ‘Tchoupitoulas.’<br />
Only kiddin’. Some people say its origin is French, because the Native<br />
Americans who lived on the river caught a mudfish the French called a<br />
‘choupic.’ (I’ve also seen that spelled as ‘choupique.’) My two cents says<br />
it lies with the Chapitoulas Indians, whose name means ‘river people.’<br />
If you’re wondering how to pronounce the name of that fish they caught,<br />
just say ‘shoo-peek.’<br />
There have been many spin-offs from the word ‘Tchoupitoulas,’ too.<br />
The music of the Wild Tchoupitoulas is one example. If you’re a foodie,<br />
you might want to look up a recipe for ‘Chicken Tchoupitoulas,’ which is<br />
Cajun Chicken with Bearnaise sauce. Now it’s up to you, Gentle Reader,<br />
to investigate all the other linguistic niceties that link to this fascinating<br />
yet mysteriously strange-sounding word.<br />
I’ll be heading further down the Bayou now …<br />
102
103
This Little Piggy - 17 September 1993<br />
A drive home in heavy late-afternoon traffic on Carrollton Avenue<br />
was all the reason I needed to pull into the parking lot of a Chinese<br />
restaurant for dinner. The food was always good, service quick, prices<br />
reasonable. I parked in front of this statue. It’s a ‘You can’t un-see this!’<br />
moment. I’d seen it many times before, but never noticed it except<br />
in passing. This day was different.<br />
I stopped to see what its huge right front paw rested on. It appeared<br />
to be a pig (or piglet) which was now departed and visiting the Great Pork<br />
Processing Facility In The Sky. Unless I’m mistaken, those sharp pointy<br />
things are piercing a defenceless little piglet. One can only surmise<br />
it parallels Monty Python’s ‘Norwegian Blue’ parrot, and is now<br />
‘pining for the fjords.’ The dragon’s expression says ‘Don’t mess with me!’<br />
What also comes to mind is a quote attributed to Genghis Khan, namely:<br />
“The greatest happiness is to vanquish your enemies, to chase them before you, to rob<br />
them of their wealth, to see those dear to them bathed in tears, to clasp to your bosom<br />
their wives and daughters.” Somehow, this statue of piglet and the dragon<br />
doesn’t seem to be too far out of context with that quote.<br />
I’d like to learn the Li’l Arfin’ Annie Secret Decoder meaning to this<br />
imagery. If you know, please feel free to share. Is piglet the loser of a<br />
dodgeball contest with the dragon, or maybe something more sinister?<br />
‘Enquiring minds … ’<br />
104
105
Sweets – 01 November 1992<br />
After driving up and down both sides of St. Charles Avenue looking<br />
for interesting sites, I saw one of the local produce trucks parked near<br />
the corner of Delachaise Street. That was a logical choice for a high<br />
volume business. It was a pipeline for people going to and leaving work<br />
at Touro Infirmary on Prytania Street a few blocks away. It was also<br />
one of many locations where trucks set up their mobile truck stands.<br />
The produce was good, the vendors helpful, and the prices reasonable.<br />
This didn’t start out as a picture of a young lady selecting produce,<br />
but once she walked into the frame, the improved composition was<br />
so noticeable I couldn’t not record the moment. It’s not too bad for a<br />
hand-colored Kodak TechPan 25 black-and-white photo, either.<br />
Being a good street marketer involves a bit of Salesmanship and<br />
Essential Hype. See those signs advertising ‘Santa Rosa Plums’?<br />
Makes ’em sound all ‘exotic’ and ‘unique,’ right? Well, slow down a<br />
minute, Clifford. You haven’t already figured out the translation of<br />
that ‘exotic’ name? Think. In Spanish (maybe it’s the same in Italian,<br />
too), it just means ‘Saint Rose.’ That’s straight up Airline Highway<br />
as you head toward Baton Rouge. ‘Santa Rosa’ is ‘Saint Rose.’ The farm<br />
was probably located on River Road. Does that give you an idea of<br />
how ‘exotic’ they are? What it means is: The produce is local. This was<br />
before the invasion of the ‘locavores,’ too. Remember: Think locally,<br />
act globally. Or something like that.<br />
106
107
Sail Away - 17 July 1991<br />
A warm July mid-afternoon at Audubon Park near the fountain<br />
inside the St. Charles Avenue entrance. It was a slow, lazy day made<br />
slower and lazier by the high temperature and humidity. In other words,<br />
a typical <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> summer day.<br />
Looking around and seeing nothing while seeing everything, I turned<br />
toward the fountain at the entrance and saw a young boy engrossed<br />
in the minutiæ of launching his boat. On that day and at that time,<br />
there was nothing more important to him than watching his boat cruise<br />
over the water of the pond. The simplicity of the event was like that of<br />
any other <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> summer afternoon.<br />
I hope this young boy had many opportunities to revisit this fountain<br />
and watch his boat go ’round. The memory of those days will stay<br />
with him, to be recalled at those times when life isn’t so uncomplicated<br />
as it was on this day.<br />
108
109
Waitin’ For A Bite – 22 August 1992<br />
When you drive to the back of Audubon Park, you’ll arrive at<br />
the part known as ‘The Fly.’ It’s a reference to that part of the park’s<br />
river viewing shelter that was shaped like a butterfly. Built in the ’60s,<br />
it was torn down in the ’80s.<br />
The Fly has wide-open green space, fields for recreational<br />
activity, a playground, and really great views of the Mississippi River.<br />
It’s open from 0500 until 2100 hours.<br />
If you’re looking for a terrific place to just relax, get a bit of sun,<br />
or do a bit of fishing, then this is the place for you. The guy who walked<br />
away and left his pole unattended appears to be taking a bit of a risk,<br />
but it’s his pole. Wait here … let me see if I can find him.<br />
You’ll excuse me if I pick up my pole and paddle downstream before<br />
he gets back … hurry up - hurry up. He’ll be back any minute now!<br />
110
111
The NORTA Fix-It-Up Shop<br />
– 17 September 1992 –<br />
No matter what you think you see in this photo, it’s not that. <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> operates one of the nation’s largest systems of Vintage Trolleys.<br />
This is the NORTA Carbarn on Jeanette Street in the Carrollton area.<br />
They rebuild and repair every streetcar that rides the rails of the city.<br />
They also make by hand the majority of unique parts no longer available<br />
from the original manufacturer. After Katrina, the original fleet of<br />
thirty-five original heritage cars survived. They were used to gradually<br />
return the streetcar lines to operation.<br />
Car 29 is the Repair Car. It’s also the Sand Car, bringing sand to<br />
refill sand barrels along the Canal Line. Its ‘work car’ dashboard striping<br />
is gone, and it wears the same color scheme now as the St. Charles Ave.<br />
cars: a green body, red doors, and silver dashboard striping. Its home is<br />
still the Carrollton Station on Jeanette Street.<br />
The Carbarn is where the streetcars are kept operational.<br />
Without the skilled craftsmen who work their magic here, the steel<br />
wheels of the Perley Thomas cars – and others – would quickly come to<br />
a grinding halt.<br />
The things people take for granted are only able to be taken for<br />
granted because of the people who make the magic happen behind the<br />
scenes. Maybe I should ask them to look at this leak in the pirogue.<br />
I can ride the streetcar while they check it out. It’s just $1.25 – and a<br />
quarter for the transfer …<br />
112
113
Who’s Your Daddy? – 18 June 1993<br />
If there were music playing in the background, it would have to be<br />
Chuck Berry. He’d be singing a little-known tune called ‘Hey, Pedro.’<br />
There’s a line in that tune that fits: ‘The leetle girl, she dance good, no?’<br />
Well, there we go again with that unending anthropomorphism thing.<br />
Sorry ’bout that.<br />
The little display window set-piece seen here was on Magazine<br />
Street in an area that once housed the noted architectural firm of<br />
Curtis & Davis. This was a block or two away from there, but that’s close<br />
enough for jazz.<br />
The window reflects the other buildings in the area, which adds just<br />
a bit more ‘mysterioso’ to the composition’s theme. It’s a game<br />
any number can play. Create your own storyline. Project it onto the<br />
characters in the setting. Assign each a history and a role. Shake well and<br />
bake at 350° until done. How the story ends is up to you.<br />
Oh – despite what your lyin’ eyes may have you believe,<br />
the dancing girl is absolutely dry. The only ‘water’ is what’s created<br />
courtesy of Photoshop.<br />
Let’s get back in our pirogue and paddle on down to the next block<br />
– I hear they just got a big batch of new stuff …<br />
114
115
On The Scene – 12 October 1992<br />
A late fall night in October of ’92 saw this house fire on Laurel<br />
Street develop quickly into one that brought out at least eight response<br />
vehicles from the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Fire Department. Pumper trucks,<br />
hook-and-ladders, snorkel trucks, and firefighters who had to bring the<br />
water to the base of the flames descended on the area. For more than<br />
two and one-half hours, they fought this blaze until finally bringing it<br />
under control. No other homes were damaged.<br />
When you consider that the average space between the old homes in<br />
Uptown <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> may be as little as ten feet, a fire in your neighbor’s<br />
home could also mean the loss of your home. This night, that outcome<br />
was prevented. It had nothing to do with luck – it had everything to do<br />
with knowledge and skill.<br />
There are some events on Life’s Bayou that are more memorable<br />
than many others …<br />
116
117
The Tchoupitoulas Water Tower<br />
– 19 May 1992 –<br />
This image was resurrected from an album submerged in<br />
approximately three feet of water during Hurricane Katrina.<br />
The negatives looked to be unsalvageable. Figuring there was nothing<br />
to lose by trying, I slowly opened each packet of film strips and laid<br />
them out to dry before trying to separate the four-frame sections.<br />
This is just one of the images that were able to be saved. It’s not perfect,<br />
and it clearly shows damage – but it still has an image.<br />
This water tower on St. Andrew Street not far from Jackson<br />
Avenue serviced the St. Thomas Development. Most people called it<br />
‘the Projects,’ and it was built in the first wave of public housing, between<br />
1938 and 1941. All of the buildings were two or three stories tall.<br />
Rent in the projects then was between $8.25 to $22.00 per month.<br />
The main source of revenue for <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> by the ’70s was tourism.<br />
That made projects like St. Thomas very desirable – and very pricey –<br />
real estate. The re-development of St. Thomas and other developments<br />
began well before Hurricane Katrina. St. Thomas’ replacement,<br />
known as River Gardens, had 182 units compared to its original 920.<br />
This tower was a landmark for the longest time. Another nearby<br />
landmark was the Glidden Paint Company building. Sara Mayo<br />
Hospital was only a few blocks away, as was the business that developed<br />
most of my film, Colorpix.<br />
Let’s get back in our pirogue and see where else our trip takes us …<br />
is it my turn to paddle?<br />
118
119
120
Lake Pontchartrain<br />
&<br />
West End<br />
__________________________________________<br />
Where the blue of the night<br />
meets the gold of the day …<br />
121
Sunrise At Low Tide – Date Unknown, 1996<br />
When I drove to Lake Pontchartrain this particular morning, I had<br />
no idea I’d see the lake at the lowest level I’d ever seen. The tide was out<br />
– way out, and items which were normally hidden were now viewable<br />
by one and all. Bring the whole family – and some popcorn.<br />
I parked in the Causeway Police lot, let them know I was on-site,<br />
and told them I wouldn’t be there long. They were cool with that.<br />
The ‘double-sun’ of the sunrise was an unexpectedly nice touch.<br />
If I count the reflection in the filter glass, there are three suns.<br />
(Why did I just flash on the ‘ST/TNG’ episode where Picard says<br />
‘There. Are. FOUR. Lights!’?)<br />
Had I been only a half-hour later, this scene would have disappeared.<br />
It didn’t take long for the tide to creep back in, enveloping the pilings<br />
and caressing the suddenly-exposed lake bottom in its wet embrace once<br />
again. Wait – can I say stuff like that … ? It sounds awfully – umm –<br />
‘racy.’ Tell ya what – you think about it, and I’m gonna step over here<br />
and get in the pirogue. Take your time – I’ll wait …<br />
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MV ‘Alexandria’ – 05 October 1994<br />
A balmy October day in 1994 and a drive around and through West<br />
End to see if anything new was there. Imagine, then, my surprise when<br />
I rounded the bend that leads to the entrance of Southern Yacht Club.<br />
As the distance shortened, I had to look once, then twice, then again to<br />
make sure I was seeing what I thought I was seeing and yes, I was …<br />
and it wasn’t even Mardi Gras.<br />
One of the things on my ‘I Won’t See That Today’ list was a pirate<br />
ship. Oh-oh. Color me wrong. My eyes fed me the correct data – now<br />
I had to act on it. I parked in the Southern Yacht Club’s lot (also known<br />
as the ‘Sudden Yat Club’) and walked to the boardwalk next to the ship.<br />
Yep, it was a genuine ship of sail, complete with masts and rigging, netting,<br />
and big ol’ anchor thingies. Look though I may, I saw nary a sail – until<br />
I accidentally looked in the right spot. That sort of thing happens when<br />
you’re non-nautical. Things that those familiar with the subject would<br />
spot right away go unnoticed by a novice who only knows a little bit<br />
about pirogues.<br />
A passer-by looked knowledgeable about boats, so I asked him about<br />
the pirate ship and why it was at SYC. He said the ship had been used<br />
in a movie featuring Tom Cruise, and was on the way back to its<br />
home port since filming was completed. He said it was powered by diesel<br />
engines and didn’t need to rely on the wind to get home. It’s good if<br />
someone’s around to provide answers to life’s little questions. That way,<br />
you can blame them later when someone tries to correct you.<br />
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Strawberries – 12 August 1992<br />
What can be said in here that the image doesn’t say for itself ?<br />
It’s one of the scenes that cross the field of vision briefly, lights up our<br />
eyes and, like the ‘Moving Finger,’ moves on to be seen no more.<br />
This brightly-colored sailboat bearing the name ‘Strawberries’<br />
on its stern swept gracefully past the spit of land projecting into<br />
Lake Pontchartrain from West End with what seemed an unusual<br />
accompaniment behind it.<br />
I thought a paper cup had fallen overboard and was being carried<br />
along by the wake. Looking closer, I saw a piece of string running from<br />
the stern, where it was tied, to a tiny plastic boat following it to the lake.<br />
By way of invalid comparison, it was a bit like watching a parent<br />
or older brother taking a younger family member into the world for<br />
the first time. Maybe Big Boat is taking Baby Boat out to show it what<br />
shrimp and crabs look like. It’s not often a sense of humor is seen<br />
‘in the wild,’ so to speak. This was both comforting and reassuring …<br />
and the only appropriate music here is 1979’s ‘The Kids Are Alright’ by<br />
The Who – but that was then, and this was now. That boat’s a lot bigger<br />
than this pirogue, too …<br />
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Ship Of Many Flags – 06 October 1992<br />
A sailboat in full dress with flags flying under a soft October sky in<br />
mid-afternoon light. Does it get any better than that?<br />
My knowledge of boats and boating is admittedly limited.<br />
The things I know about boating will fill a teacup, with room left over.<br />
That said, I know just two types of boats: Power boats and sailboats.<br />
I know, that’s an oversimplification and there are many subcategories<br />
and types. I only present observation and opinion. Knowing nothing<br />
about boats other than they’re big ‘floaty’ things, I can only look at ’em<br />
wide-eyed and say ‘Oooh!’<br />
The difference between power boats and sailboats for me<br />
is summarised as follows: Power boats are the ‘muscle cars’ of WaterWorld,<br />
and sailboats are the ultimate presentation of grace, style, and elegance.<br />
Power boats are the Ferraris, Maseratis, and Lamborghinis; sailboats are<br />
the Aston-Martins, Bentleys, and Rolls-Royces.<br />
There’s no right or wrong – just differences of type and function.<br />
It was just as good on the days when Al Copeland’s jet boat screamed<br />
over the Lake as it was on the days when sailboats bobbed on the waves<br />
to float in and out of the Harbor. Al’s jet boat was way cool, tho’.<br />
These are opinions only, and your mileage may vary.<br />
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Sailing Home – Date Unknown, 1993<br />
Although this image is undated, I’m reasonably sure it was<br />
taken in either late August or early September of 1993. Once again,<br />
‘The Point’ provides the best place for photographing boats as they enter<br />
and exit the harbor. While they may have been quite the speedy mode<br />
of transport on the open lake, when they headed into harbor they were<br />
restricted to the speed limit imposed on all boats in its jurisdiction.<br />
This sailboat seemed to glide across the water as if it weren’t there.<br />
The slight chop on the lake didn’t affect it as it continued its slow, graceful<br />
voyage at Viewing Procession speed until disappearing from view.<br />
For all my lack of knowledge about things nautical, I can still be<br />
impressed by the graceful lines of the craft themselves. Even though<br />
sailboats are sleeker and more graceful than their up-engined cousins,<br />
both types have their own beautiful lines. The ‘muscle boats’ are more<br />
aggressively designed, but are no less attractive – just different.<br />
Were it not for a childhood incident (which we won’t go into here)<br />
involving the <strong>New</strong> Basin Canal, an overpowered skiff, and a turn made<br />
at the wrong time with the wrong angle of attack, I may have had<br />
a different relationship with boating. As ‘The Wizard’ says at the end of<br />
‘Conan, The Barbarian,’ “But that is another story” … Now let’s get back<br />
to the pirogue and keep on movin’.<br />
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The Met Station – 01 October 1991<br />
The ‘met station.’ ‘Met’ is shorthand for ‘meteorological,’ and this<br />
was the weather station manned by the United States Coast Guard at<br />
West End. The facility has since relocated to the Metairie side of the<br />
17th Street Canal in Bucktown. Whether the old building still maintains<br />
any operational equipment or was converted to a showpiece for visitors<br />
is unknown, but it’s still in its old location.<br />
This structure was always a favorite of mine. Its lines are simple,<br />
stylish, and classic. The lighthouse at the top with its wooden railing<br />
around the walkway is a perfect accent piece.<br />
No visit to the lake was complete without driving a strip of asphalt<br />
where the Hong Kong restaurant (the first place I ate abalone) and<br />
Joe’s Crab Shack (Free Crabs Tomorrow!) did business. When the turn onto<br />
Lakeshore Drive made its gentle curve to the right (or left, depending on<br />
where you went), the Coast Guard met station was in view, even from<br />
the pirogue. It was always like seeing an old friend again.<br />
The USCG met station will be an iconic memory for all fortunate<br />
enough to see it. With luck, it will be maintained for years to come,<br />
if only as a reminder of ‘The Olden Days.’ The lighthouse will be<br />
quite helpful when paddlin’ the pirogue in late at night, y’ know …<br />
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The Moment In <strong>Time</strong> – 27 August 1991<br />
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135
Freedom – Date Unknown, 1992<br />
Crossing the levee at the end of Severn Avenue in Metairie and<br />
walking down to the lake on the batture side of the levee provides a great<br />
view of Lakeway Nr 1 and Nr 2. The silver film covering their glass<br />
reflects the sky and everything else around them. It also makes a great<br />
visual counterpoint to the darkening sky at sunset – as it did here.<br />
There’s something quite nice about a calm lake reflecting the<br />
surroundings on its glass-like surface. It’s great for ‘attitude adjustment.’<br />
If you’re recovering from a day in a cube farm or other high-pressure<br />
environment, visit the lake. It’s nice if you have time to change into<br />
comfortable clothes first, but it’s not mandatory.<br />
The Severn Avenue part of the lake is close to the Causeway that<br />
whisks people back and forth between the North and South shores.<br />
It’s relatively secluded, and doesn’t have the larger numbers of viewers<br />
found at West End or the Bonnabel launch sites. If you want a greater<br />
assurance you’ll be alone with your thoughts, this is the place to be.<br />
I didn’t plan to have the bike in this, but as luck would have it,<br />
a rider pulled up and parked directly in front of me before walking off<br />
to be with his thoughts. No ‘Do you mind?’ or ‘Sorry.’ He just parked and<br />
left. It couldn’t have worked out any better had I planned it this way.<br />
The pirogue stayed tied to its dock while I took in the moment …<br />
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137
The Storm Before The Calm<br />
– 15 September 1992 –<br />
Occasionally we do things that common sense tells us we shouldn’t<br />
do. This is an example of one of those ‘occasionallys.’<br />
The weather guys had been on-screen telling us repeatedly to stay<br />
home. ‘There’s a bad storm coming!’ Yeah yeah yeah. We’d heard it<br />
before, and usually it was all wind and no rain. That being the history<br />
of our WX guys, when they said this was going to be a bad storm,<br />
I put it in the category of Fred Sanford’s “This is the big one, Elizabeth!”<br />
and drove to West End. I shouldn’t have done that, y’ know.<br />
This was one of the times they were right. Once at West End and the<br />
Yacht Harbor, I knew by the number of boats secured in their slips that<br />
something was coming – not necessarily something good.<br />
The southeast wind picked up and rain hit the skin like BBs.<br />
Those signs told me I’d made a big error in judgment and it was<br />
time to leave. See? I can learn. It wasn’t easy paddlin’ the pirogue<br />
down Life’s Bayou that day, but it was a whole lot better than<br />
capsizing in the water, right?<br />
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Song At Sunset – 15 September 1992<br />
Parking at the end of Severn Avenue in Metairie and walking over<br />
the levee and down the batture brings you down to the edge of Lake<br />
Pontchartrain. Be careful, though. There’s a long strip of rough asphalt<br />
surfacing that runs parallel to the lake. It’s referred to as a ‘bike path.’<br />
Better it should be called ‘Attorney Alley’ or ‘Ankle Breaker.’ Walking on<br />
grass was a lot safer than taking the ‘bike path.’ Maybe it’s fixed now.<br />
Who’d expect to see a guy at the lake in late afternoon playing music<br />
while he kept the lake company? Sure, it’s a nice touch, but would you<br />
ever see this in Nebraska? Nuh-unh, Herbie. It’s a N’Awlins thing …<br />
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Oh, That’s A Good One! – 19 August 1993<br />
The pirogue pulled into a slip in the Municipal Yacht Harbor and<br />
I decided to walk around that section of Life’s Bayou. Big boats. Little<br />
boats. Boats with shiny Gelcoat finishes. Boats in need of a shiny Gelcoat<br />
finish. Pilings. Everywhere pilings. Pilings all over the place. Suddenly,<br />
this piling came into view. It had a Happy Little Dinosaur on top,<br />
and its tail was nailed to the piling. ‘Well, that’s just not right,’ I thought.<br />
Then I remembered it was only a rubber toy, not a real dinosaur.<br />
That made me feel all better. It’s a neat idea, tho’ – and it makes it easy<br />
to spot your slip among all those others without a dinosaur. It’s called<br />
‘Prior Planning’ …<br />
After that, I got back in the pirogue ’cos that was just too much<br />
excitement for me in one day. It’s a lot easier paddling down the Bayou<br />
– so I did.<br />
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Sunset Fishing – 15 September 1991<br />
The former fishing pier that was once used by many a visitor to<br />
Lake Pontchartrain for viewing, romancing, or just fishing was an<br />
ideal icon to use in any image. Backlit, frontlit, or lit from the side,<br />
it was always an instantly-reconizable icon to virtually every viewer.<br />
No ambiguity need apply.<br />
Depending on the time of year – or time of day – the type of visitor<br />
or user varied by purpose. Mid-day was the time of heaviest traffic.<br />
People gathered at the rail to watch jet ski acrobats perform aquatic<br />
escapades. If their performance was recorded by the viewers, that was<br />
a plus. Early morning was either no traffic or a few hardy souls arriving<br />
with fishing pole to hand and a tackle box full of lures at their side.<br />
Afternoon, whether early or late, was the time that late-day fishermen,<br />
romantic duos, or small families arrived at the pier to watch the<br />
sun sink below the horizon.<br />
This day had only one player in its ‘What Can You Catch?’<br />
Instant Winner contest that pitted Man against Fish. Fishermen made<br />
use of the bait and cleaning station, where there was a surface for scaling<br />
and gutting the catch, and a faucet for quick and easy clean-up of their<br />
hands and tools. I wasn’t there long enough to know if this fisherman<br />
went home with dinner or just an appetite. I hope it was dinner.<br />
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Pontchartrain Sunset, West End – 15 May 1993<br />
There was no pier like this in the ‘60s.<br />
There was only The Point (pron. ‘Da Pernt’).<br />
There was Lenfant’s and The Rockery, but …<br />
Dates asked why we were at The Point,<br />
and the universal reply was always:<br />
‘To watch the submarine races.’<br />
This pier is so much classier.<br />
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148
Metairie<br />
&<br />
Jefferson Parish<br />
__________________________________________<br />
You hold it - I’ll light it …<br />
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Girl, Did You Hear About – 17 September 1993<br />
Early one morning I wended my weary way to the Laundromat on<br />
Green Acres Road near Veterans Boulevard because my washer had<br />
seen fit to die over the weekend. That never happens at a good time.<br />
Bundling the Clothing Needing Cleaning, I drove to the laundromat,<br />
put everything in the washer, and went for a bit of a walkabout.<br />
Immediately adjacent to the laundromat were two other businesses.<br />
To the left was a gas station’s pay-inside operation. To the right was<br />
a ladies’ hair salon; further down was a restaurant that seemed to be<br />
under new management every other week.<br />
Peering into the closed salon, the chairs and hair dryers appeared<br />
to engage in a silent conversation of the kind held only by inanimate<br />
objects. Maybe it was the positioning of the dryers – I dunno. Either<br />
way, it was an image with furniture and équipages that were rapidly<br />
vanishing. It seemed fitting to memorialize them in a manner that<br />
suggested what may have gone on during business hours. Maybe the<br />
ladies were ‘Marge’ and ‘Vera,’ and the shop owner was named ‘Trudi.’<br />
So was born the Imaginary Conversation. The Extra Added Attraction<br />
was the reflection of the Mighty PimpMobile in the shop window’s glass.<br />
That’s what carried me to the laundromat, remember?<br />
A few clicks to record the moment, a quick dry and fold, and a return<br />
trip home on the Air-Soft Ride of the Mighty PimpMobile. Did you say<br />
the shape of the dryers may have been where ‘SNL’ got their inspiration<br />
for ‘The Coneheads’? I bet you did.<br />
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Aut, Not Science – 22 August 1992<br />
Found this interesting little accidental composition one morning<br />
on the way up Airline Highway to Norco and LaPlace. It was just past<br />
Power Boulevard and the Recycling Center. Oddly enough, what caught<br />
my eye wasn’t the huge truck tires. What I noticed was the corrugated<br />
metal wall displaying the letters ‘AUT.’<br />
I knew there would soon be an ‘O’ added to the first three letters,<br />
and this would just become boring. Best to get it while it was there.<br />
It lent itself easily to a really stupid question: Is it AUT – or Science?<br />
See? I said it was really stupid.<br />
Moving to the tires, we come upon another questionable set of<br />
letters. Do they spell ‘Used Tires’ or ‘Useds Tire’? That could have<br />
been avoided, y’ know. A bit more space, and the problem is gone.<br />
If they’d done that, tho’, it wouldn’t have caught the attention nearly as<br />
well. Maybe that ‘mistake’ was a purposeful error – like ‘Aut.’ Or not.<br />
We’ll never know. Oh - that ‘O’ at the end of ‘AUT’? It was never added.<br />
The sun’s gettin’ higher in the sky now, so let’s get back in the pirogue<br />
and paddle down Life’s Bayou into the shade of those trees. Right.<br />
Those ones over there … let’s go …<br />
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153
Contemplating The Abyss – 21 November 1995<br />
What was it Nietzsche said about the abyss? “Beware that, when fighting<br />
monsters, you yourself do not become a monster, for when you gaze long into the abyss,<br />
the abyss gazes also into you.”<br />
That seemed to be applicable to the situation this little Teddy bear<br />
found itself in when I happened upon the earth moving equipment it<br />
was attached to. This machine was used in the process of tearing up<br />
a parking lot and a few other things being replaced at a McDonald’s<br />
on Green Acres Road at Veterans Boulevard in Metairie, LA in ’95.<br />
If I let myself go ‘full anthropomorphic’ on this image, there are<br />
levels upon levels to be laid bare when it comes to symbolism and<br />
meaning – inherent or attributed. I appreciate the simple version of<br />
things. I choose to see a Teddy staring down at whatever lies below with<br />
a sense of child-like wonder, amazed he can be part of something so cool.<br />
I postulate he’s happy because the operator of the equipment wanted to<br />
show him what he does during the day. Maybe he sees a strand of beads<br />
left over from Mardi Gras. Wow … See what I mean about throttling<br />
back the anthropomorphism … ?<br />
A Zen koan tells us: “When one knows nothing about mountains and looks at<br />
a mountain, one sees a mountain. When one knows a little bit about mountains, one<br />
looks at a mountain and sees more than a mountain. When one knows all there is to<br />
be known about mountains, one looks at a mountain and sees a mountain.”<br />
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Gotta Be Here Somewhere – 17 September 1993<br />
Driving up Airline Highway one sunny morning, I saw something in<br />
the distance that looked interesting. The closer I got, the more interesting<br />
it became. When I was at the site, it became really interesting. For a brief<br />
moment after I exited the Mighty PimpMobile, I thought I was looking<br />
at a real, live, flesh-and-blood Human Being with his head stuck inside a<br />
transmission housing while perched on top of a metal pole. Talk about<br />
Gullible’s Travels …<br />
Once I realised what I was looking at, it was even more impressive –<br />
and incredible. There was no signage to indicate which company created<br />
the work. Usually those who make signs like this want their name in<br />
front of the public to attract more work, but there was nothing to see.<br />
It’s possible it was done entirely by the transmission shop personnel as an<br />
attention-getter. If it was, they did one helluva job making it believable.<br />
This is a real ‘trompe l’oeil’ …<br />
The ‘unknown’ was whether the overalls contained a mannequin<br />
form or were just stuffed with rags or batting. Just a quick thought about<br />
how long this had been in the weather and how well it still displayed<br />
makes me favor the mannequin. It has solidity and rigidity, making it<br />
easier to move than a set of overalls stuffed with rags. The other benefit<br />
to a mannequin is weather resistance. Rags or batting wouldn’t hold up<br />
to the constant exposure to wind, rain, or other outdoor phenomena.<br />
My money’s on the mannequin form. Big props to the creators of this<br />
great piece of advertising art. Ya did good, podnuhs …<br />
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The Industrial Spider – 17 September 1992<br />
On this bright, shiny September afternoon, I noticed activity taking<br />
place under the Power Boulevard I-10 overpass. Another flyover was<br />
being built above it, and I could see its hardhatted construction crew<br />
working there. Off to the side was a long greyish tube that rose up to the<br />
crew from the ground. Color me curious.<br />
I walked up the ramp past the Barricade of Cones that kept traffic<br />
off of the Power Blvd. ramp and looked over the edge. What lay below<br />
was magnificent. It was a concrete pumper with its stabilizers deployed.<br />
It resembled nothing so much as a trapdoor spider in its lair … waiting.<br />
This isn’t something that’s seen every day, especially when you’re<br />
in a pirogue on Life’s Bayou. Grabbing the EverReady Camera and<br />
steadying it on the railing, the pics were done in a matter of minutes.<br />
Late afternoon on a September day with an ‘Industrial Spider’ for<br />
company. Does it get any better?<br />
Okay. That’s enough reminiscin’ – grab a push pole, ’cos we’re<br />
gettin’ back on the Bayou …<br />
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One Dime, One Dance – 26 March 1995<br />
The car shows were something to behold. Elmwood Center was the<br />
place to be when the hoods went up and the paint would glisten in the<br />
sun. There were old cars, new cars, kit cars, vintage cars, motorcycles,<br />
three-wheelers, funny cars, and anything else your little automotive<br />
mind could wish for.<br />
One thing was always certain – there was always excellent<br />
workmanship on display to satisfy the most critical attendee. If anyone<br />
went home saying there wasn’t enough variety, they were in the<br />
‘Impossible To Please’ category and should never be taken seriously.<br />
This vehicle, with the lunch-counter jukebox atop its radiator, was<br />
one of the most interesting cars on view this day. The jukebox was<br />
labeled ‘For Display Only.’ No matter how many dimes you put in,<br />
you’d never hear a tune.<br />
For overall visual effect, the combination of chrome and paint under<br />
the bright noon-day sun was hard to beat. There were a few competitors,<br />
but none had that ‘little bit extra’ this one had. Step up and take a<br />
bow … you earned it. The most unexpected things come into view on<br />
Life’s Bayou sometime.<br />
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Going Down – 22 May 1999<br />
Once there was a building called the Security Homestead building.<br />
It was on Veterans Memorial Boulevard in Metairie, Louisiana, only<br />
a few blocks from where I lived. I first became aware something may<br />
be about to happen the day I saw the crane with a wrecking ball at the<br />
end of a long wire cable driving onto wooden platforms placed on the<br />
ground to keep its treads from sinking into the mud.<br />
As time went on, signs became increasingly obvious that the Grand<br />
Finale was rapidly approaching. If I was going to get any closeup<br />
images, I’d need permission from the site’s General Manager to be on<br />
the property. A quick visit to his on-site trailer got me the permission<br />
I needed. While I was there, I asked if they had considered performing<br />
an implosion. You know – like Jamie on ‘MythBusters’ – “Jamie want<br />
Big Boom!” He said that couldn’t be done because of the soil type in the<br />
location. If the building were brought down by implosion, the shock<br />
wave transmitted to adjacent properties through the soil would wreak<br />
havoc on their piping and water supply lines. Well, alright then …<br />
As demolition progressed, enough of the building was removed so<br />
the Inner Sanctum of its Central Core was now revealed. I suspect it<br />
housed the elevators in real life. The only way to capture that was from<br />
across the street, so I parked there. The structure in this picture was<br />
gone two days after this was taken. A Wreckin’ Ball waits for no one.<br />
Neither does our pirogue. What? I thought you tied it up. You didn’t?<br />
Okay – let’s start looking for it before it gets dark …<br />
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Be 18 Or Die – 10 May 1999<br />
Near the sharp ‘S’ curve of Jefferson Highway where Canton<br />
Restaurant, Bowl-A-Rama, and Jahncke Concrete’s yard used to be<br />
was a place called the Sport Palace. The cinderblock exterior wore<br />
a base coat of blue paint, and its artwork was painted over that.<br />
One afternoon I stopped to image some of them. After a few exposures<br />
were made, another part of the building was inspected to see the rest of<br />
the artworks.<br />
Whoa! As I turned the corner, I saw a sign in the door and knew it<br />
was going to be the image of the day. ‘Be 18 or Die’ … there’s not a lot of<br />
subtlety goin’ on in that message, is there? No sirree Bob …<br />
<strong>Time</strong> for a brief description of why this looks the way it does.<br />
The shutter release was pressed, a ‘click!’ was heard, and the exposure<br />
was under way. It was long, about two minutes. About halfway through<br />
the exposure, the door swung wide as a customer left the building.<br />
Oh-ohh! What’s that gonna do?<br />
Unexpectedly, the customer’s exit had provided a view of the interior<br />
and the vending machine’s lights inside. I could never have gotten that<br />
with the door closed. It would have been a sign that said ‘Be 18 or Die.’<br />
If I met him today, I’d shake his hand and say ‘Thanks.’<br />
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Metaire Shrimp – 10 June 1994<br />
Looking at that truck, I hear the words “Oh Grandma!, what big teeth you<br />
have!” Does that make sense? Probably not. It’s a subconscious response<br />
to a primal image. Big scary thing coming at me! As King Arthur said<br />
to his Knights in Monty Python’s ‘Quest for the Holy Grail’ when the<br />
Killer Rabbit wreaked havoc: “Run away! Run away!”<br />
Slipping back into the Real World again, this hugemongous truck<br />
was parked on Airline Highway in Metairie, LA. I was next door and,<br />
doing a quick read of the visuals, had to remind myself to not laugh<br />
until I (or the truck) was out of sight.<br />
So: What got the Laff-O-Matic running, you ask? It’s an inside joke<br />
kinda thing, but if you view what’s been stamped into the Big Chrome<br />
Bumper of the truck, you’ll read the words ‘Metaire Shrimp.’<br />
One tiny little problem … The letters in that Big Chrome Bumper<br />
should spell ‘METAIRIE SHRIMP.’ There are two ‘i’s in ‘Metairie.’<br />
That’s not gonna buff out easily, y’ know.<br />
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The LaSalle – 12 January 1994<br />
While driving through Elmwood Industrial Park one day, I spotted<br />
this old LaSalle in the side alley of an auto repair shop. Could I have not<br />
stopped to enquire about it … ? No.<br />
After a brief introductory period, I told the owner of the facility<br />
what had caught my attention and asked if I could view it up close and<br />
take a few photos of it while I was there. He didn’t have a problem<br />
with that, so I did and the rest, as they say, is history. Okay, okay –<br />
not well-known history, but let’s not be overly picky, awright … ?<br />
The LaSalle was an American luxury brand made and sold by the<br />
GM Cadillac division from 1927 through 1940. The concept for the<br />
LaSalle was developed by Alfred P. Sloan, and it was part of the plan to<br />
fill pricing gaps he saw in the GM pricing portfolio.<br />
Sloan created the LaSalle as a companion brand to Cadillac.<br />
They were manufactured by Cadillac, but were lower-priced models.<br />
Their marketing slot put them in the enviable position of being the<br />
second-most-prestigious marque in GM’s lineup.<br />
Following the lead of Cadillac, the LaSalle brand name came from<br />
that of a French explorer, René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle.<br />
I would never have thought it had such a lineage – but it did. It also<br />
had a great grille. What I saw was a ‘period’ vehicle that could be used as<br />
a focal point for the cover of a fictional book that sounded all ‘dramatic’<br />
and ‘suspenseful’ – like the one you see as you look to your right …<br />
You won’t find that on any other Bayou ’cos we have an ‘Exclusive Use’<br />
deal on it. Let’s keep on paddlin’ …<br />
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<strong>Time</strong> Saver – 09 October 2005<br />
Ecclesiastes reminds us that, “To every thing, there is a season” but<br />
I don’t think that refers to Hurricane Season. This empty tilted gnomon<br />
points awkwardly at the sky after having been quite rudely treated by<br />
Hurricane Katrina.<br />
The earliest it was possible to return from evacuation in Baton Rouge<br />
was late September of ’05. This was the second trip back. After securing<br />
the apartment as much as possible with no door locks, it was time to see<br />
the other areas.<br />
This non-functioning sign on 17th Street in the Fat City area of<br />
Metairie once lit up a <strong>Time</strong>Saver parking lot. Even tho’ its fluorescent<br />
tubes were oddly intact, there was no power. Night was eerily reminiscent<br />
of the ‘Dawn Of Man’ nighttime sequence in Stanley Kubrick’s ‘2001:<br />
A Space Odyssey.’ Morning was always a welcome sight.<br />
At a once-lively-but-now-empty nightclub, there were cases of MREs<br />
and water passed out by the troops of Charlie Co., 1/108 Field Arty<br />
out of Philadelphia, PA. If MREs weren’t your idea of a hearty meal,<br />
they had cases of canned wienies in sauce – and they were magically<br />
self-heating, too. (Pro tip: Always take the MREs.)<br />
Katrina made my move out of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> take place about three<br />
years earlier than planned. The United Van Lines truck arrived early on<br />
the morning of 14 November 2005 to load what was left of my ‘stuff ’ and<br />
roll it up the highway to Memphis, TN.<br />
That was then. This is now. It’s time to grab that paddle and push<br />
off from the bank once again. Life’s Bayou is waitin’ – let’s get movin’ …<br />
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Versailles Motel – 20 July 2002<br />
Once one of the ‘In’ places to stay, and considered to be quite<br />
the ‘hoity-toity’ establishment by travelers, the Versailles Motel on<br />
Airline Highway transitioned from reality to memory in July of 2002.<br />
The demolition proceeded at what might be described as a ‘relaxed’<br />
pace, and crews never rushed to finalize the process. That may have<br />
been a bit of temporary job security for them.<br />
The Versailles’ architecture was a product of its time. Now, that<br />
time was up. It had been passed by. <strong>New</strong>er, better, and trendier places<br />
with nicer amenities made the Versailles obsolete. The end, as they say,<br />
had been nigh. Now ‘nigh’ had arrived.<br />
The walkway over the swimming pool area is indicative of the<br />
Versailles’ once-new architecture. A bit too much ‘Jetsons,’ not enough<br />
‘Star Trek.’ There was, tho’, something incongruously appealing<br />
about the presence of that little ‘Witch-On-A-Stick’ on the flagstone.<br />
The walkway’s reflection in the water as an ‘All-Seeing Eye’<br />
perfectly matched the overall feeling of surreality.<br />
Before getting too deep in the psychological weeds, let’s back away<br />
real slow and walk back to our pirogue where it’s safe. Don’t make any<br />
sudden moves, keep your hands where I can see ’em, and we’ll be headin’<br />
down Life’s Bayou again in a few seconds …<br />
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KCS 4356 – 22 September 1992<br />
What could possibly be cooler than a locomotive? The answer to<br />
that is: Seeing a locomotive up close! Like this KCS engine bearing the<br />
number ‘4356.’<br />
The KCS maintenance facility on Cold Storage Road in Jefferson<br />
Parish was a great place to view trains. They were usually parked in the<br />
open. Even if they were moving, the track speed out of the repair shed<br />
was minimal.<br />
The day I spotted this engine waiting its turn to enter was a great<br />
opportunity to see things most people might just wonder about. I didn’t<br />
expect to see the two red coolers outside the door. They added a nice<br />
touch of the ‘everyday’ to the engine. Ham sandwiches, root beers …<br />
Even though this was the KCS yard, it wasn’t unusual to see a train<br />
bearing a Union Pacific or Burlington & Northern logo on its side. All of<br />
them were great, and there was always a shortage of either time or film.<br />
Sometimes, it was both.<br />
Over time, I came to know the yard’s Superintendent and shared<br />
some of the better images with him. He was the person who gave me<br />
the green light to be ‘on the yard.’ Without his permission, many of the<br />
afternoons spent there would have been only to enjoy the sights.<br />
It’s been nice visiting here again, but the time to move further down<br />
Life’s Bayou is upon us …<br />
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The Fix-It Bear – 22 November 1996<br />
Remember ‘Mister Bill’ on ‘Saturday Night Live’? Remember his<br />
nemesis, ‘Mister Hand’? If you put your ear real close to the page, you<br />
can almost hear this cute little bear saying ‘Oh noooooooooo Mister Dart!’.<br />
This dart board hung on a side wall of the Auto Tune garage on Airline<br />
Highway. The bear was the ‘Extra Added Attraction.’<br />
Every time I drove the Mighty PimpMobile to be brought back<br />
from the brink of Automotive Death, Rick and Darren always came<br />
through. Even when the PimpMobile reached the point of being<br />
‘in extremis,’ they were able to reach in and pull out a few more days<br />
of operable life. The bear saw it all as it happened. Hey! How’s that for<br />
some ‘personification’? Woo-hoo! Do the ‘happy dance’ … !<br />
Back to the subject: Driving past the shop one day, I brought<br />
Rick a picture of this dart board and its Fix-It Bear. He looked at it<br />
for a minute or so, and then said he didn’t remember it being there.<br />
That’s easy to understand, tho’ – he and Darren were usually too busy<br />
tending to the Mighty PimpMobile’s automotive needs.<br />
Their shop is closed now, and I like to think the dart board and its<br />
Fix-It Bear are in a comfortable villa with hot and cold running<br />
transmission fluid. If the Great Spirit of the Mighty PimpMobile<br />
is there too, life will indeed be good.<br />
Okay – enough ‘Memory Lane’ stuff. The pirogue’s not gonna<br />
paddle itself, you know. Let’s get started …<br />
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The Magic Hat – 10 December 2000<br />
What more needs to be said about this? Some people can handle<br />
Mardi Gras. Some people can’t. I have no idea which category whoever<br />
tossed this little hat onto the sign falls into. In case you’re curious:<br />
No. I didn’t take it home with me.<br />
Like Johnny Cash sang: ‘I hear that pirogue callin’, it’s callin’ ’round<br />
the bend … ’ That means it’s time to pick up the push pole, doesn’t it?<br />
Come on - we’re almost there.<br />
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We Live To Serve – 09 June 1992<br />
Why, yes! It IS a Vehicle Inspection Station! This one’s at a gas<br />
station somewhere in Metairie. The tag at bottom right in the picture<br />
is from a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> brake tag station. If you’re wondering why the<br />
difference, it’s because <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> didn’t allow the State to perform<br />
inspections or issue State tags in its jurisdiction. That meant you went to<br />
the Brake Tag Station on Jefferson Davis Parkway. If you wanted a tag,<br />
it was always helpful if the ‘inspector’ saw a $5 bill on the dashboard<br />
when he scraped off your old sticker. The State inspection stations<br />
were a bit more straight-forward. Your car passed, or it didn’t. If it<br />
passed, you were then issued a sticker good for a year. In <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,<br />
your ‘brake tag’ sticker was only good for six months.<br />
Here’s a little brain teaser: Given the information above, which<br />
tag is better to get? Would you rather get your tag in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,<br />
or anyplace else? That was the question drivers in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> asked.<br />
Their answer was usually to get ID showing they lived anywhere except<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> to get a reduced-rate, year-long State tag. Here’s another<br />
variable: This was before any emissions inspection was added to the list of<br />
tests cars had to pass. Imagine the joy …<br />
What’s that you say? Our pirogue passed, and now we have a<br />
brand-new State-issued Pirogue Tag good ’til next year? Well okay, then.<br />
Let’s get back on Life’s Bayou and start paddlin’ since we’re legal now …<br />
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Amtrak 4037 – 07 June 1995<br />
There’s something about trains … a sense of history, of freedom<br />
and adventure, a lingering attachment to their predecessors that helped<br />
tame the Wild West when they were called the ‘Iron Horse.’ The smell<br />
and feel, the look, and the sheer size of the locomotive and its caravan<br />
of cars combined to convey a sense of immense power and potential.<br />
This Amtrak train, Nr 4037, rested for the longest time on a spur in<br />
a side lot on Pepsi Avenue in Elmwood Industrial Park in Metairie, LA.<br />
It was massive when viewed up close. With its complement of boxcars<br />
in train, it was an impressive sight, even in its state of disrepair.<br />
There were more mornings and late afternoons than I can recall<br />
when I drove to get images of the engine, its cars, the wheels, or just<br />
the weathered surface textures of different materials of construction.<br />
There was always the uneasy feeling that Amtrak had thrown away a<br />
perfectly good train.<br />
A good friend has just given me news this engine has been moved to<br />
a site where it will hopefully be restored to its former status. The Society<br />
doing the restoration is currently restoring the steam train I used to play<br />
on in Audubon Park when it was across the street from Monkey Hill.<br />
If Nr 4037 can be brought back to life and generate motive power<br />
on its own, that will be the best of all possible worlds. Arlo Guthrie’s<br />
musical question may be asked by this one, too: ‘Good morning, America,<br />
how are you?’<br />
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Face Full Of Pole – 25 July 2003<br />
Some days you’re the flier; some days you’re the pole. Or,<br />
to shamelessly mock an old ad for A Beer Which Shall Go Un-Named:<br />
‘When you’re out of Witch, you’re out of here!’<br />
And so, as the sun sinks slowly into the west and the witch slides<br />
slowly down the pole, we come to the end of our First Exciting Adventure<br />
down Life’s Bayou. We hope you’ve had as much fun on our journey<br />
as we’ve had sharing these small ‘Life Vignettes’ with you.<br />
Keep your eye to the skies for the arrival of a comet announcing our<br />
Next Big Adventure - Volume II. Please wait for the pirogue to come<br />
to a complete stop and leave your push pole in the ‘flat and locked’<br />
position before returning to the shore. Your business is appreciated,<br />
and we look forward to having you join us on our next trip. Thank you<br />
in advance for recommending our product to your family and friends …<br />
Merci, et bon chance, mon ami.<br />
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About The Author<br />
Richard A. Caire was born in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, LA in 1944, and has had many<br />
and varied life experiences, some of which are shared in this book.<br />
Richard worked briefly as a printer in the studio of Philip Sage, printing<br />
many editions of Sage’s images as well as the Knute Heldner family-authorized<br />
restrike edition of several drypoint copperplate etchings.<br />
During his ‘Chemical Years,’ he represented six major divisions of the<br />
Rochester Midland Corporation in the Louisiana, Mississippi, S. Alabama, and<br />
Florida panhandle territories. He was the Chemical Sales Manager and Trainer<br />
for Jim Walter Paper Company before joining the hazardous materials recycling<br />
firm of Marine Shale Processors in St. Rose, LA as Special Projects Manager.<br />
Richard joined Kinko’s as a typesetter and graphic designer in 1994. Kinko’s<br />
was later purchased by FedEx and renamed FedEx Kinko’s before evolving to<br />
become today’s FedEx Office. Moving to Memphis, TN after Hurricane Katrina,<br />
Richard retired from FedEx Kinko’s in 2006.<br />
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The Mighty PimpMobile<br />
At 230 inches long, the 1977 Lincoln Continental Mark V was the<br />
largest two-door coupe ever sold by Ford Motor Company.<br />
ENGINE: 460 CID 4V V-8<br />
Bore & stroke: 4.36 x 3.85 in. • Comp. ratio: 8.0:1<br />
Horsepower: 208 at 4000 RPM • Torque: 356 lb.-ft. at 2200 RPM<br />
Carburetor: Motorcraft 4350<br />
Wheelbase: 120.4” • Overall Length: 230.3” • Width: 79.7” Height: 53.0”<br />
Curb Weight: 4,838 lbs. • Track: (Front/Rear) 63.1”/62.6” • Luggage Capacity: 18.1 cu.ft.<br />
Fuel Capacity: 26.0 gallons<br />
Headroom: (Front/Rear; in inches) 37.5/37.1 • Shoulder Room: 60.4/59.0<br />
Hip Room: 55.4/54.3 • Leg Room: 42.3/34.0<br />
Top Speed: 111 mph (theoretical)<br />
Acceleration: 0- 60 mph - 12.7s<br />
Author’s Note: The Mighty PimpMobile was donated to the Salvation Army, where it<br />
was sent to the Steel Recycling Corporation of America to become new products.<br />
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Memory lane is so long … yet so short.<br />
There is no beginning.<br />
There is no end.<br />
There is only that moment<br />
when we look back<br />
or<br />
look ahead.<br />
– To Be Continued –<br />
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