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50 KREUZBERG
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Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists
and alternative folks than you can shake a didgeridoo at,
Kreuzberg feels neither east nor west. It was the black sheep of
West Berlin, literally parked in a dead-end corner by the Wall and
left alone to play loud music and draw on the walls. By now, the
protesting students of 1968 have grown grey alongside Turkish
immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg relives its 15
minutes of fame during the May Day traditional political demonstrations,
which invariably turn into a long night of stone-throwing
and burning cars. Otherwise, Kreuzberg is all about backgammon
at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and
ambling down the popular Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße
drags. This chapter also covers areas southwest of Kreuzberg:
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof airportturned-park
which attracts thousands of visitors in summer,
and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, the Kreuzkölln area
around Reuterstraße is increasingly attracting hipsters, artists,
artsy boutiques and weird nightlife spots.
Getting there
The Bergmannstraße area is best reached from Friedrichstraße
on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm, or at Platz
der Luftbrücke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty end of
Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz and pop up
at Kottbusser Tor; the Kreuzkölln bars are within pubcrawling
distance of Schönleinstraße and Hermannplatz
stations, on the same line.
Pocket Walk
Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrücke
station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for
views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along
genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps visiting a café or the market
hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the
the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park.
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Symbol key
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away
W Wi-Fi
R Internet
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.
€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.
€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.
€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the
Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall
along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of
Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined
Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively
Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to
discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along
Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy
‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.
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Restaurants & Cafés
Asian
Kimchi Princess H-4, Skalitzer Straße 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 03, www.
kimchiprincess.com. Though this is not Berlin‘s first Korean
restaurant, Kimchi Princess is being hailed by the capital‘s
gourmets as the first one to serve authentic dishes - that is, not
drowned in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It‘s indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to find a free
table in the evening. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBSW
Pagode F-5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagodethaifood.de.
Simply one of the best Thai restaurants in town,
and awarded by the Thai embassy in Berlin as one of the best
in Germany. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that‘s just
part of the authentic self-service atmosphere; wait till you
sink your teeth in the fantastic food. All the Thai classics are
present, as are some other Asian dishes. If you like it hot, just
ask and they‘ll make it hot. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. VBS
Sarod‘s Friesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, M U
Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.
de. Kreuzberg‘s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the
extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice,
coriander and spices). There‘s a good selection of wines too.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW
Austrian
Austria F-5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, MU
Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.austriaberlin.de.
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger
Fritattatorte where they do it right, here in Austria. This
corner restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge
in the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS
Jolesch H-4, Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU
Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.
de. Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner
of Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after ‚Tante Jolesch‘, a Viennese auntie who loved to
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes
like goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB
Thai restaurant
Friesenstraße 22
tel. 69 50 73 33
www.sarods.de
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Bergmann Curry
KREUZBERG
B ergmann Curry
Bergmannstraße 88, tel. +49
50 56 51 54, www.bergmanncurry.com.
A friendly fast food joint
with quality organic currywurst, fries,
meat balls and more. The menus
include the upmarket ‚Rockefella‘
dish (served on porcelain, with a
glass of champagne), and there‘s vegan wurst and burgers,
and sweet potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of
searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‚board of pain‘.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Fast food
Curry 36 F-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.curry36.de. If
you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you‘ll order yours
here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison to the
ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of respect
from the hard-boiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian
Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables
are the fried burgers, Boulette. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. €. S
Glück To Go F-5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, tel. +49
30 623 10 04, www.glueck-to-go.de. This unusual fast-food
restaurant was inspired by a trip to India‘s Gujarat province
and serves happiness to go: delicious protein-rich vegetarian/
vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice
concoctions; all home-made with organic and regionally sourced
ingredients. You won‘t miss the meat patty at all in the delicious
Orient Express burger, with beetroot, spices and special date
chutney; and there‘s three other burgers to choose from. Finish
off with a sweet, low-fat Shrikhand joghurt. Set menus from
€6-8,50. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €. B
Sarod’s
Open daily 12:00-24:00
Sundays from 14:00
traditional healthy Thai cuisine
fresh and dainty
December 2012 - January 2013
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