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48 FRIEDRICHSHAIN
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Friedrichshain
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East Sidde GGallllery
Schlesisches Tor
U
Friedrichshain is a lively old
workers district that has
completely been taken over
by rad nightlife venues,
graffiti and leftist students
moaning about Touri’s encroaching
on their favourite
watering holes. Tree-lined
Simon-Dach-Straße is full
of cafés and bars, while
Boxhagener Platz hosts a
popular flea market. In the former border zone along the
river, the ‘Mediaspree’ development plan for offices, apartmens
and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many
vocal locals who fear they’ll lose the river. This chapter
also includes sights east of Friedrichshain.
Getting there
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer
Straße or U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From Nordbahnhof
or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram.
Pocket Walk
Get off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Straße; enjoy the
wide city panorama from the bridge and glance back at the
dainty red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading
north into the district. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left
on Simon-Dach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristy
stretch of bars and cafés. A right on Krossener Straße
takes you to Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent
Sunday flea market. Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and
Mainzer Straße to reach the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter
Allee. Follow this west (it becomes Karl-Marx-Allee)
and turn right onto Friendenstraße for a stroll and a beer in
Volkspark Friedrichshain.
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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Thae Thaer Thaer
Rigaer Rigaer Rigaer er
Kopernikusstr.
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Simon Simon
Revaler Revaler Str Str..
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Symbol key
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away
W Wi-Fi
R Internet
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.
€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.
€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.
€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.
Restaurants & Cafés
Schneeweiß Simplonstraße 16, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 04 97 04, www.
schneeweiss-berlin.de. Schneeweiß is extremely stylish, very
popular, and very, very white. The delicious Alpine and ‚new German
cuisine‘ on the menu here is easily a match for the chic interior,
which has won accolades for its fantastic design. This is the place
to go if you‘re looking for a full-on dining experience, not just food.
QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. TGBS
Simon-Dach Dach Dach ach ach-St aach ahStr
Str.
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Str Str..
Frankfurter Allee
Modersohnstr
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Samariterstr.
U
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Lenbach- Len enbachenb ennbac
ach
plat platz
S
Ostkreuz
S
Frankfurter Allee
S
U
Frankfurter Allee
BBoxhhagggener Str. Gürtelstr
Corinthstr Corinthstr thst thst st ..
Str Str..
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Proskauer Proskauer Proskauer skauer skauer eer
St Str Str..
Kreutziger Kreutziger Kreutziger
Str Str Str
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Krossener Krossener Krossener ene en St Str Str Str Str..
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Eld Eldenaer Eldenaer S
Dolziger Dolziger Dolziger ger ger Str Str Str.
Bänschstr Bänschstr Bänschstr Bänschstr Bänschstr.
Schreinerst Schreinerstr Schreinerstr ein ein .
Colbest Colbestr Colbestr bes be ..
Wühlischstr Wü Wühlischstr.. hli chs hstr
Gärtne Gärtner Gärt Gärtner Gärt - st str str.
Revaler RRevaler e Str Str.. S
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Sonntagstr Sonntagstr Sonntagstr Sonn onn agstr agstr.
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Oders Oderstr Oderstr.. erst str
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JJessnerstr Jessnerstr Jess essnerst st rr
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Kaskel Kaskel Kaskel- str
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Spittastr Spittastr Spittastr..
0 500 1000 m
Rummelsburger
Macondo I-4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, tel. +49
30 54 73 59 43, www.macondo-berlin.de. Macondo was
the setting of García Márquez‘ novel 100 Years of Solitude,
and you could say that its languid tropical atmosphere
perseveres in this wonderful ‚reading café‘. There‘s old
furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good
coffee and original South American mate tea, sipped through
a silver straw. Bring a book, and time. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
Nightlife
Bars
Crack Bellmer I-4, Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Straße, www.crackbellmer.de. A
barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking
however; there‘s film screenings, and a good-sized space for
dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the
southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon. UNB
Habermeyer J-4, Gärtnerstraße 6, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 29 77 18 87, www.habermeyerbar.de.
Like many Berlin bars, Habermeyer recycles the
1970s with its light fixtures and furnishings but it also created
its own unusual wall designs. A popular table football and
flipper machine provide distraction from the loud and very
varied DJ music, though there‘s no space to dance, but there‘s
free salty snacks to console you. Q Open from 19:00 - open
end. UNB
Clubs
Berghain I-3/4, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.
berghain.de. A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything
goes on the main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the
dark rooms of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks
from the queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties
are always varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning
for the best atmosphere. There are concerts and events
on weekdays too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.
Q Open Fri 24:00 - Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00.
UNGBW
Matrix I-4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.
matrix-berlin.de. Directly underneath under the Warschauer
Straße U-Bahn station DJs lay down tracks of R´n´B, straight
house, soul, electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors
within the vaults that date back to 1901. There‘s always a
party here, 365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday
has party classics with free champagne before midnight for
ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails. QOpen
22:00 - 06:00. Admission €3-6. UGBW
Sightseeing
Museums
Computerspielemuseum (Computer Game
Museum) I-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain,
MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.
computerspielemuseum.de. Stroll through decades of
computer game history, from the 1951 Nimrod calculating
robot and 1980s gaming machines to 3D simulators. You
berlin.inyourpocket.com
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
can try out about 24 classic games yourself, and have a go
at Atari‘s huge 1977 Jumbo Joystick. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Tue. Admission €8/5.
Museumswohnung WBS 70 (GDR Apartment
Museum) Hellersdorfer Straße 179, Hellersdorf, MU
Cottbusser Platz, tel. +49 151 16 11 44 40. Travel back to
1986 and visit a GDR worker‘s dream property; this mundane
but much-coveted prefab Plattenbau museum home is the
last of 42,000 such apartments with all its original fittings
(drab wallpapered ceilings), appliances (yoghurt machine,
Albanian chairs) and decorations (lurid floral patterns). The
rent was 109 Marks, about 10% of the average wage, but
the colour TV cost 4,500 Marks. From the station exit left
and follow the street around the block. No English spoken or
captions; bring a local. Q Open Sun 14:00-16:00, other days
by appointment. Admission free.
Stasi Museum (Forschungs- und Gedenkstätte
Normannenstraße) Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1,
Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstraße, tel. +49 30
553 68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. East Germany‘s State
Security Service or Stasi was responsible for intelligence
gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its own
citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and
family of those they wished to keep an eye on. Today, this
humble museum shows the office of Erich Mielke, the feared
Stasi minister for 32 years, in its original dull state. There‘s a
video of Mielke testifying before a panel in 1989, symbols of
Communist kitsch, and many documents in German. Groups of
10 or more can get an English-language tour at no extra cost,
when requested in advance. See also the Stasi Exhibition
in Mitte. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Admission €5/4.
Parks and Gardens
Volkspark Friedrichshain H-2/3, Friedenstraße,
Friedrichshain, MU Strausberger Platz. Berlin‘s oldest
public park was opened in 1846 for the residents of the
densely populated Friedrichshain and Prenzlauer Berg
neighbourhoods; it was soon enlarged, inspired by New
York‘s Central Park. Two wartime Flak towers were dynamited
and covered by a million cubic metres of rubble to form the
landscaped Bunkerberg hills - foliage unfortunately obscures
the views. Visit it today for the open-air theatre and cinema,
the Märchenbrunnen fountain with its fairy tale and animal
figures, meadows, sports facilities and the Schönbrunn
Biergarten.
Shopping
Fashion & Shoes
tausche Taschen Krossener Straße 19, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 34 71 11 50.
Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100 different designs.
Two flaps are included and various insets equip the bag to
suit any occasion. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
Markets
Flohmarkt am Boxhagener Platz J-4, Boxhagener
Platz, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49
162 292 30 66. The fleamarket on the Boxi may be the
funkiest place to trawl though junk. There‘s everything from
1970s tape recorders to Polish art posters and second-hand
clothing. Q Open Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
December 2012 - January 2013
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