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JUNE<br />

THE<br />

POWER OF<br />

MEGHAN<br />

MARKLE<br />

A Jamaican<br />

fashion odyssey<br />

ZADIE SMITH<br />

ON ART’S<br />

NEW STAR<br />

HOLIDAY<br />

STYLE<br />

6 key<br />

sun-soaked<br />

trends<br />

The new<br />

spiritual<br />

address book<br />

Inside Chanel<br />

with<br />

Karl Lagerfeld<br />

A MODERN<br />

ROMANCE<br />

Cara Delevingne stars in<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong>’s royal wedding salute

COCO CRUSH<br />

RINGS IN DIAMONDS, WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD<br />

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1<br />

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1 HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY & WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1<br />

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005<br />

CHANEL.COM

dior.com – 020 7172 <strong>01</strong>72

Bois de Rose and Rose Dior Pré Catelan collections<br />

Pink gold, diamonds and pink quartz.

WWW.VALENTINO.COM<br />

FRAN SUMMERS<br />

FEBRUARY 23RD <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong><br />

VILLA ALDOBRANDINI

The Spirit of Travel

louisvuitton.com

The Spirit of Travel<br />

louisvuitton.com

CONTENTS<br />

Regulars<br />

39 Editor’s letter<br />

42 Notices<br />

Behind the scenes of the issue<br />

48 Here comes the bride<br />

Visit <strong>Vogue</strong>.co.uk for your definitive<br />

wedding guide<br />

115 Checklist<br />

Everything you need for a weekend<br />

away, in town or country<br />

207 Stockists<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAEL BAUMGARTEN; DYLAN THOMAS. NATHALIE<br />

FARMAN-FARMA WEARS DRESS, DURO OLOWU. SHOES, MANOLO BLAHNIK<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> trends<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

59 Dive in…<br />

… introducing summer’s most<br />

colourful swimwear<br />

62 Global village<br />

Bohemian style gets a chic update<br />

64 La bomba<br />

The Mediterranean bombshell<br />

made muse<br />

68 Short order<br />

Mini or maxi, make shorts<br />

your seasonal staple<br />

73 Happy feet<br />

The new sandals are an absolute riot<br />

75 Pure joy<br />

Your passport to fashion heaven?<br />

A perfect white ruffle dress<br />

76 How I learned to love jeans<br />

Denim-phobic Olivia Singer tries on<br />

the newest styles of the old staple<br />

78 <strong>Vogue</strong> darling<br />

Actress Raffey Cassidy reveals<br />

a few of her favourite things<br />

COVER LOOK<br />

House of prints,<br />

page 99<br />

Cara Delevingne<br />

wears gazar hat, to<br />

order, Noel Stewart.<br />

Get the look: make-up<br />

by Pat McGrath Labs.<br />

Eyes: Metalmorphosis<br />

005 Eye Kit in Copper.<br />

Lips: LuxeTrance<br />

Lipstick in Paradise<br />

Garage. Skin: Skin Fetish<br />

003 Illuminator Kit in<br />

Nude. Hair by Redken.<br />

Redken Satinwear 04.<br />

Hair: Guido Palau.<br />

Make-up: Pat McGrath.<br />

Styling: Joe McKenna.<br />

Photograph: Steven Meisel<br />

Jewellery<br />

“This season’s precious gems have<br />

metamorphosed into brilliant butterflies”<br />

Wings of desire, page 82<br />

82 Wings of desire<br />

A bejewelled butterfly alights<br />

at the V&A, courtesy of Beyoncé.<br />

By Carol Woolton. Photographs<br />

by Michael Baumgarten<br />

Arts & culture<br />

89 ON THE COVER<br />

And still we rise<br />

Zadie Smith praises the storied<br />

paintings of Toyin Ojih Odutola<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> living<br />

From top: diamond and sapphire brooch.<br />

White-gold, turquoise and sapphire brooch.<br />

Both Van Cleef & Arpels. Opalescent quartz<br />

and black-diamond ring. Matching pendant<br />

necklace. Both Stephen Webster. Opal,<br />

emerald, diamond and sapphire brooch,<br />

Moussaieff. Orange enamelled ring with<br />

multicoloured gemstones, Dolce & Gabbana<br />

Alta Gioielleria. All price on request<br />

94 Some like it Scot<br />

Where to go, what to eat – Hayley<br />

Maitland enjoys a Highland fling<br />

99 House of prints<br />

Pattern, pattern everywhere…<br />

Hayley Maitland visits Nathalie<br />

Farman-Farma’s Chelsea home.<br />

Photographs by Dylan Thomas<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> party<br />

104 Lights, cameras, fashion...<br />

Ellie Pithers went star-spotting at<br />

the <strong>Vogue</strong> Fashion and Film Party,<br />

held in partnership with Tiffany<br />

Viewpoint<br />

107 A new scene<br />

The stage is set for a theatrical<br />

opening that chimes with the times,<br />

writes Adwoa Aboah. Portrait<br />

by Scott Trindle<br />

108 Only connect<br />

Novelist Meg Wolitzer waxes<br />

lyrical about the importance of<br />

the mentor-protégé dynamic<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> tech<br />

110 Fit for purpose<br />

The gadgets that keep model<br />

Irina Shayk’s life on track > 30

CONTENTS<br />

“The new incharge<br />

look mixes<br />

old-school status<br />

symbols with<br />

modern attitude”<br />

High flyers, page 184<br />

Archive<br />

113 Oh, what a lovely war<br />

Robin Muir revisits the undaunted<br />

chic of a 1918 <strong>Vogue</strong> cover<br />

illustration by Helen Dryden<br />

Beauty and wellness<br />

119 About face<br />

Colourful new adventures<br />

in make-up, by Jessica Diner.<br />

Photograph and styling by<br />

Venetia Scott<br />

125 Touch of sun<br />

The best of this summer’s<br />

bronzers, chosen by Lottie Winter.<br />

Photograph by Coppi Barbieri<br />

126 ON THE COVER<br />

Spiritual address book<br />

Jessica Diner shares the alternative<br />

therapists trusted by the <strong>Vogue</strong> team.<br />

Illustrations by Shogo Sekine<br />

128 Beauty musings<br />

Trends and looks to know now,<br />

compiled by Lauren Murdoch-Smith<br />

130 By popular demand<br />

Lamenting the loss of a<br />

discontinued product? When the<br />

people speak, top brands do listen,<br />

says Jessica Diner<br />

Fashion and features<br />

134 ON THE COVER<br />

Modern romance<br />

Cara Delevingne models the most<br />

avant-garde of bridalwear – and<br />

writes about her personal milestones.<br />

Photographs by Steven Meisel.<br />

Styling by Joe McKenna<br />

148 ON THE COVER<br />

The meaning of Meghan<br />

Afua Hirsch and Claudia Croft<br />

analyse Meghan Markle’s<br />

influence on fashion and society.<br />

Artworks by Peter Blake<br />

154 ON THE COVER<br />

Inside Chanel<br />

Karl Lagerfeld is interviewed by<br />

Suzy Menkes as <strong>Vogue</strong> previews<br />

Chanel’s sublime Métiers d’Art<br />

collection. Photographs by Juergen<br />

Teller. Styling by Poppy Kain<br />

SUBSCRIBE TO<br />

166 ON THE COVER<br />

Jamaican rhapsody<br />

Join us on an odyssey to this<br />

captivating island. Words by Olivia<br />

Marks. Photographs by Tim Walker.<br />

Styling by Kate Phelan<br />

184 High flyers<br />

Pencil in a meeting with the women<br />

working nine-to-five in classics<br />

remixed for now. Photographs by<br />

Venetia Scott. Styling by Poppy Kain<br />

196 State of the arts<br />

On the eve of its 250th birthday,<br />

Sarah Crompton looks back on the<br />

history of the Royal Academy, while<br />

Anton Corbijn photographs current<br />

academicians from Anish Kapoor to<br />

Gilbert & George. Styling by<br />

Florence Arnold<br />

200 The class of <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong><br />

This year’s BFC/<strong>Vogue</strong> Designer<br />

Fashion Fund finalists – and winner<br />

– revealed by Ellie Pithers and<br />

Jourdan Dunn. Photographs by Scott<br />

Trindle. Styling by Jack Borkett<br />

Back page<br />

What would Jane Fonda do?<br />

The actress takes our quiz<br />

Turn to page 90 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift<br />

Flannel<br />

jacket, £3,885.<br />

Satin blouse,<br />

£2,220. Flannel<br />

trousers, £1,805.<br />

Flannel coat,<br />

£5,<strong>06</strong>0. Leather<br />

bag, £2,470.<br />

All Chanel.<br />

Beret, £79, Marzi,<br />

at Fenwick<br />

PHOTOGRAPH: VENETIA SCOTT<br />

30

dior.com – 020 7172 <strong>01</strong>72<br />

La D de Dior Satine collection<br />

Pink gold and diamonds.

EDITOR’S LETTER<br />

CRAIG McDEAN; JEFF SPICER; GETTY<br />

A royal<br />

wedding is…<br />

… always an exciting time for Britain,<br />

but I must say it feels like there is<br />

something extra special about the<br />

nuptials of Prince Harry and Meghan<br />

Markle this month. For a start, they<br />

land in a year when, on bad days at least,<br />

the country can feel like it is becoming<br />

ever more divided. Of course, the Royal<br />

family invites plenty of diverse opinions<br />

itself these days, but at its simplest<br />

a wedding is a joyful union and a<br />

wonderful celebration of togetherness.<br />

And this one happens to star a truly<br />

fascinating bride.<br />

Why has Ms Markle struck such a<br />

chord with the <strong>British</strong> public since her<br />

engagement was announced at the end<br />

of last year? I suspect it is because she<br />

offers a really exciting new spin on<br />

what aristocracy can mean in the<br />

21st century. A mixed-race – or as<br />

she prefers, bi-racial – woman from<br />

California, with a successful career<br />

under her belt and a proven track record<br />

as a campaigner for social change,<br />

Meghan Markle is… well, remarkable.<br />

When we watch her take her first steps<br />

into an ancient institution, she will be<br />

an embodiment of all that is modern.<br />

She stands up for diversity, for her<br />

gender, for equality. In short, she is a<br />

woman of today.<br />

And how should <strong>Vogue</strong> mark this<br />

joyous occasion? Naturally it had to be<br />

through fashion. We took the nation’s<br />

favourite young supermodel, Cara<br />

Delevingne, and cast her in the most<br />

avant-garde of bridal tributes. Modern<br />

Romance (page 134) proves that wearing<br />

a white dress on your big day can be<br />

anything but predictable. Sticking with<br />

the theme of modernity, Cara also took<br />

the time to write about some of the key<br />

milestones for her generation which no<br />

longer involve just going down the aisle.<br />

Meanwhile, on page 148, we chart<br />

the rise of Ms Markle as an astonishing<br />

fashion sales force who is setting the<br />

industry alight. Through her style<br />

choices, she could add £1 billion a year<br />

to fashion’s collective turnover, and<br />

perhaps even eclipse the Duchess of<br />

Cambridge. As I said, remarkable.<br />

Speaking of industry power, earlier<br />

this year I was excited to spend a day<br />

with Caroline Rush and our fellow<br />

judges for the BFC/<strong>Vogue</strong> Fashion<br />

Fund award. Now in its 10th year,<br />

the fund not only provides one young<br />

designer with £200,000 and an<br />

invaluable yearlong mentorship scheme<br />

to accelerate their business, but also<br />

shines a spotlight on so many incredible<br />

<strong>British</strong> talents as they start to make their<br />

way in fashion.<br />

I was very impressed. We met every<br />

designer shortlisted, and I was bowled<br />

over by how savvy they are. The old<br />

image of a designer as a creative who is<br />

unconcerned with the business side of<br />

things? Those days are gone. These<br />

young talents are so in tune with their<br />

business models, knowing exactly what<br />

their clients want from them and how<br />

to promote digitally. It’s a new world.<br />

It was great to work with Jourdan Dunn,<br />

who joined me on the judging panel<br />

this year and models the finalists’ work<br />

on page 200 – where you’ll also discover<br />

who won. Seeing this whole gang of<br />

young designers together made me think<br />

that <strong>British</strong> design is in a really good<br />

place. We should be thoroughly excited<br />

for the future.<br />

Above: the BFC/<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> Fashion Fund<br />

award judges, from<br />

left, Sarah Mower,<br />

Erdem Moralioglu,<br />

Sarah Manley,<br />

Caroline Rush,<br />

Edward Enninful,<br />

Maria Hatzistefanis,<br />

Jourdan Dunn,<br />

Paul Price, Gemma<br />

Metheringham,<br />

Xia Ding. Left:<br />

Meghan Markle and<br />

Prince Harry<br />

39

NOTICES<br />

Step inside Jane Fonda’s<br />

world on this month’s back<br />

page, where the actress –<br />

who was first photographed<br />

for <strong>Vogue</strong> in 1965 (right) –<br />

reveals everything from her<br />

love of David Attenborough to<br />

the best way to fix a martini.<br />

American novelist Meg<br />

Wolitzer (below) considers<br />

the role of the female<br />

mentor on page 108. So,<br />

what are her favourite<br />

feminist reads? “A Room of<br />

One’s Own by Virginia<br />

Woolf, The Second Sex by<br />

Simone de Beauvoir, and<br />

Our Bodies, Ourselves.”<br />

Steven Meisel photographed Cara<br />

Delevingne (right) in sculptural bridal<br />

looks for this month’s cover story, Modern<br />

Romance (page 134) – in which, ahead of<br />

the royal wedding, the model and actress<br />

also lists her own personal milestones.<br />

CHERCHEZ<br />

LA FEMME<br />

Behind the scenes of<br />

the June issue<br />

Zadie Smith (above)<br />

reveals her love for Nigerian<br />

artist Toyin Ojih Odutola<br />

on page 89. “If I could own<br />

any work from her oeuvre,<br />

it would be The Marchioness,”<br />

the Booker Prize-winner<br />

says. “It’s a great painting.<br />

Also, it’s what I’ll be<br />

aiming for with my look<br />

around 2038.”<br />

Industry legend Karl<br />

Lagerfeld is interviewed by<br />

his long-time friend Suzy<br />

Menkes (left) on page 154.<br />

But what are her all-time<br />

highlights from Lagerfeld’s<br />

35 years at Chanel? “I<br />

adored the haute couture<br />

sneakers in the s/s 2<strong>01</strong>4<br />

collection; his Métiers d’Art<br />

collection in Seoul; and<br />

every single piece of his<br />

worn by Ines de la<br />

Fressange in the 1980s.”<br />

DAVID BAILEY; JULIAN BROAD; DEBORAH COPAKEN KOGAN; JONATHAN DE VILLIERS;<br />

ELENA OLAY; CHRISTOPHER SIMON SYKES; WOLFGANG TILLMANS; TIM WALKER<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong>’s gallery<br />

To mark the Royal Academy’s 250th anniversary,<br />

we asked Anton Corbijn to photograph some of<br />

its most famous artists (State of the Arts, on<br />

page 196). Below, we chart other academicians’<br />

appearances in <strong>Vogue</strong> through the years…<br />

Zaha Hadid,<br />

October 2003<br />

David Hockney,<br />

October 20<strong>06</strong><br />

Below: Tacita Dean,<br />

October 2<strong>01</strong>1.<br />

Right: Tracey Emin,<br />

April 20<strong>01</strong><br />

Right: Grayson Perry,<br />

June 2<strong>01</strong>6. Far right:<br />

Gillian Wearing,<br />

December 2004

Alhambra, celebrating luck since 1968<br />

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 19<strong>06</strong><br />

9 NEW BOND STREET - HARRODS - SELFRIDGES<br />

www.vancleefarpels.com - +44 20 7108 6210

NOTICES<br />

Stay<br />

STRAWBERRY HILL<br />

The first of Chris Blackwell’s Island Outpost<br />

Jamaican hotels, Strawberry Hill originated as a<br />

mountain retreat for musicians when he was head<br />

of Island Records. It retains that personal touch,<br />

with the sounds of reggae drifting up from street<br />

parties in nearby Kingston. After a full day exploring<br />

the local terrain (hiking tours are on offer), you<br />

return to find a mountain breeze wafting through<br />

your room and a hot-water bottle in your bed.<br />

GOLDENEYE<br />

Also owned by Blackwell, GoldenEye is full of<br />

history and glamour. It was once the writing retreat<br />

of James Bond creator Ian Fleming, so where<br />

better to shoot 007’s archenemy Grace Jones for<br />

Jamaican Rhapsody? <strong>Vogue</strong>’s senior contributing<br />

fashion editor Kate Phelan says, “Although it’s<br />

known as a celebrity hang-out, GoldenEye makes<br />

everyone welcome. There’s a real sense of calm.”<br />

After wiling away a couple of hours in the new<br />

beach huts and dipping into the lagoons, it’s easy<br />

to see why it has so many loyal guests. The drive is<br />

lined with trees planted by frequent visitors such as<br />

Kate Moss, Michael Caine and Johnny Depp.<br />

Playlist<br />

The soundtrack to your<br />

island getaway<br />

GRACE JONES<br />

“SLAVE TO THE RHYTHM”<br />

CHRONIXX<br />

“SMILE JAMAICA”<br />

POPCAAN<br />

“EVERYTHING IS NICE”<br />

Eat<br />

EITS café offers both<br />

local and foreign flavours –<br />

its name is an acronym for<br />

Europe in the summer –<br />

combining farm-fresh Jamaican<br />

fare (right) with European<br />

produce grown at 3,500ft<br />

above sea level. The <strong>Vogue</strong><br />

editors swear by the fried fish.<br />

PARADISE LIFE<br />

Languid days and heady<br />

nights unfolded for <strong>Vogue</strong>’s<br />

fashion team at Jamaica’s<br />

Island Outpost resorts.<br />

By Pom Ogilvy<br />

Beach life<br />

CORNWALL BEACH,<br />

MONTEGO BAY<br />

This overlooked gem<br />

sits next door to the<br />

popular Doctor’s Cave<br />

beach, but is much<br />

less crowded. There<br />

is a small entry fee of<br />

$5, but who can say<br />

no to “bottomless”<br />

rum punches on a<br />

Sunday afternoon?<br />

MAMMEE BAY<br />

BEACH, OCHO RIOS<br />

Order a “no problem”<br />

cocktail at beachfront<br />

restaurant Bamboo<br />

Blu, then spend the<br />

day kicking back on<br />

daybeds or tackling<br />

some water sports.<br />

SEVEN MILE BEACH,<br />

NEGRIL<br />

Seven miles of fresh<br />

white sand and clear<br />

blue sea. What’s on<br />

the menu? Freshly<br />

caught seafood and<br />

excellent jerk chicken.<br />

What to pack<br />

From above left: headband, £95, Benoît Missolin.<br />

Sunglasses, £190, Gucci. Woven bracelet, £185 for a set<br />

of two, Dior. Bamboo clutch, £175, Heidi Klein<br />

INSTAGRAM @17MILEPOST; LEBAWIT LILY GIRMA

yslbeauty.com<br />

Edie Campbell

THE EAU DE PARFUM

VOGUE.CO.UK<br />

Here<br />

comes<br />

the bride<br />

From Meghan Markle’s<br />

style evolution to<br />

Cara Delevingne trying on<br />

all kinds of bridalwear,<br />

head to <strong>Vogue</strong>.co.uk now for<br />

everything wedding-related<br />

Watch:<br />

this month’s cover star,<br />

Cara Delevingne, plays<br />

wedding dress-up at<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong>.co.uk/video<br />

Join the nominees for<br />

the BFC/<strong>Vogue</strong> Fashion<br />

Fund as they ice their own<br />

gingerbread magazine covers<br />

THE VOGUE WEDDING DIRECTORY<br />

Use our definitive<br />

wedding guides to plan<br />

the perfect summer<br />

celebration and<br />

honeymoon; shop the<br />

best outfits for your<br />

nuptials; and schedule in<br />

your manicures, facials<br />

and colour appointments<br />

with our bridal beauty<br />

countdown.<br />

ERDEM<br />

RODARTE<br />

TIBI<br />

Top: OPI Put It<br />

In Neutral nail<br />

polish, £7. Above:<br />

tulle gown, £950,<br />

Needle & Thread<br />

Who’s<br />

Meghan<br />

wearing?<br />

Chart Meghan Markle’s fashion<br />

progress – from small-screen star to<br />

duchess – and discover the brands<br />

that she champions now.<br />

BARBARA ANASTACIO; SAM GOLDWATER; PAUL BOWDEN; ANDRE DURST; JASON<br />

LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; GETTY; PIXELATE.BIZ; REX/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

48

EDWARD ENNINFUL<br />

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />

CREATIVE DIRECTOR JOHAN SVENSSON<br />

MANAGING EDITOR MARK RUSSELL FASHION DIRECTOR VENETIA SCOTT<br />

EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH ABABIO<br />

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR SOEY KIM<br />

FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR DENA GIANNINI<br />

SENIOR CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR KATE PHELAN<br />

SENIOR FASHION EDITOR POPPY KAIN<br />

FASHION EDITOR JACK BORKETT<br />

SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANTS FLORENCE ARNOLD, BEATRIZ DE COSSIO, JOSIE HALL<br />

FASHION COORDINATOR POM OGILVY<br />

JEWELLERY EDITOR CAROL WOOLTON<br />

MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD<br />

CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS<br />

JANE HOW, JOE McKENNA, MAX PEARMAIN, CLARE RICHARDSON,<br />

SARAH RICHARDSON, MARIE-AMELIE SAUVE<br />

FASHION BOOKINGS EDITOR ROSIE VOGEL-EADES<br />

ACTING BOOKINGS ASSISTANT ROMAIN BOUGLENAN<br />

CONTRIBUTING CASTING DIRECTOR ASHLEY BROKAW<br />

FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR SARAH HARRIS<br />

ACTING FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR CLAUDIA CROFT<br />

FASHION FEATURES EDITOR ELLIE PITHERS<br />

SHOPPING EDITOR NAOMI SMART<br />

EXECUTIVE FASHION NEWS EDITOR OLIVIA SINGER<br />

FASHION CRITIC ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN<br />

BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR JESSICA DINER<br />

BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH<br />

BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE ASSOCIATE LOTTIE WINTER<br />

BEAUTY EDITOR-AT-LARGE PAT McGRATH<br />

CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY EDITORS<br />

KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY, FUNMI FETTO, VAL GARLAND,<br />

SAM McKNIGHT, GUIDO PALAU, CHARLOTTE TILBURY<br />

FEATURES DIRECTOR GILES HATTERSLEY<br />

COMMISSIONING EDITOR OLIVIA MARKS<br />

FEATURES ASSISTANT HAYLEY MAITLAND<br />

EDITOR-AT-LARGE CAROLINE WOLFF<br />

CONTRIBUTING STYLE EDITOR GIANLUCA LONGO<br />

ART DIRECTOR PHIL BUCKINGHAM<br />

ART EDITOR JANE HASSANALI<br />

DESIGNER EILIDH WILLIAMSON<br />

JUNIOR DESIGNER PHILIP JACKSON<br />

PICTURE EDITOR CAI LUNN<br />

DEPUTY PICTURE EDITOR BROOKE MACE<br />

ART COORDINATOR BEN EVANS<br />

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR CATHY LEVY<br />

DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR VICTORIA WILLAN<br />

SUB-EDITOR STEPHEN PATIENCE<br />

VOGUE.CO.UK<br />

DIGITAL EDITOR ALICE CASELY-HAYFORD<br />

ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR KATIE BERRINGTON<br />

BEAUTY & HEALTH EDITOR LISA NIVEN<br />

MISS VOGUE EDITOR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER NAOMI PIKE<br />

VOGUE DAILY EDITOR ALICE NEWBOLD<br />

ENGAGEMENT MANAGER ALYSON LOWE<br />

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PUBLISHED BY THE CONDE NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD,<br />

VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S 1JU (020 7499 9080).<br />

DIRECTORS NICHOLAS COLERIDGE, JEAN FAULKNER, SHELAGH CROFTS, ALBERT READ,<br />

PENNY SCOTT-BAYFIELD, SABINE VANDENBROUCKE, SIMON GRESHAM JONES, DYLAN JONES<br />

JONATHAN NEWHOUSE CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE, CONDE NAST INTERNATIONAL

Edited by Naomi Smart<br />

Styling by Jack Borkett<br />

TRENDS<br />

DIVE IN…<br />

…to summer’s vivid colour,<br />

vibrant prints and attentiongrabbing<br />

accessories. Let the<br />

pool times roll. Photographs<br />

by Thurstan Redding<br />

Swimsuit, £275, Araks. Sunglasses,<br />

£290, Céline. Leather shoes, £450,<br />

Burberry. Straw hat, £600, Elie Saab<br />

HAIR: JONATHAN DE FRANCESCO. MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE.<br />

NAILS: PEBBLES AIKENS. SET DESIGN: THOMAS PETHERICK.<br />

MODELS: AKIIMA AJAK, AIDEN CURTISS, IRINA SHNITMAN<br />

59

Swimsuit,<br />

£355, Hermès<br />

From left: beach bag, £125, Bimba<br />

& Lola. Sunglasses, £310, Bottega<br />

Veneta. Bikini top, £91. Bikini<br />

bottoms, £99. Both DVF West.<br />

Below: Akiima wears swimsuit<br />

and sunglasses, as before<br />

“Black bathing suits<br />

begone. This summer<br />

is all about those<br />

unorthodox colour<br />

combinations – the<br />

brighter the better”<br />

Ellie Pithers, fashion features editor<br />

Left: leather bag,<br />

£795, Paul<br />

Smith. Below,<br />

from top:<br />

sunglasses, £14,<br />

River Island.<br />

Bikini, £205,<br />

Zimmermann<br />

ISABEL MARANT<br />

60<br />

Above, from top: bikini top, £23.<br />

Bikini bottoms, £27. Both & Other<br />

Stories. Sunglasses, £119, McQ.<br />

Right: asymmetric bikini, from<br />

£260, Leslie Amon<br />

Below: bikini top, £54. Bikini<br />

bottoms, £46. Both Tommy<br />

Hilfiger. Below right: cotton tote,<br />

£215, Weekend Max Mara<br />

THURSTAN REDDING; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ

TRENDS<br />

Far right: Aiden wears<br />

bikini top, £285. Skirt,<br />

£965. Both Michael<br />

Kors Collection.<br />

Crochet top, £250,<br />

Jil Sander. Sandals,<br />

£585, Sonia Rykiel.<br />

Bag, £3,675, Céline.<br />

Earrings, £245.<br />

Bangles, from £44<br />

each. All Dinosaur<br />

Designs. Necklace,<br />

£150, Pebble London.<br />

Irina wears striped<br />

two-piece dress with<br />

tie, £1,180, JW<br />

Anderson. Leather<br />

belt, £395.<br />

Bag, £565. Both<br />

Michael Kors<br />

Collection. Chain<br />

belt, £585, Sonia<br />

Rykiel. Sandals,<br />

£700, Altuzarra,<br />

at Net-a-Porter.com.<br />

Earrings, £185,<br />

Dinosaur Designs.<br />

Right, from top:<br />

earrings, £230, Rebecca<br />

de Ravenel, at Matches<br />

fashion.com. Dress,<br />

£3,275, Chloé. Sandals,<br />

£435, Carven. Bikini,<br />

£395, Missoni Mare<br />

LOEWE<br />

Global village<br />

The boho look gets a bold update as<br />

craft and colour collide. Mix tie-dye,<br />

ombré and batik fabrics with<br />

layered-up, oversized accessories<br />

ETRO<br />

Dress, £895,<br />

Amanda Wakeley.<br />

Beaded top, £4,975,<br />

Marc Jacobs.<br />

Sandals, £1,100,<br />

Altuzarra, at<br />

Barneys.com. Bag,<br />

£295, Longchamp.<br />

Earrings, £175,<br />

Dinosaur Designs.<br />

Necklace, £220,<br />

Pebble London<br />

From top left: sweater,<br />

£90, Zara. Earrings, from<br />

£190, Lizzie Fortunato.<br />

Sunglasses, £216, Alain<br />

Mikli, at Sunglass Hut.<br />

Bag, £1,350, Dior. Dress,<br />

£265, Rhode Resort, at<br />

Matchesfashion.com<br />

THURSTAN REDDING; JASON LLOYD-EVANS;<br />

MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ

TRENDS<br />

LA<br />

BOMBA<br />

When Simon Porte Jacquemus<br />

took his mother, Valérie, as his muse<br />

this season, it was less about<br />

seeing her as a typical matriarch<br />

and more a sun-drenched bombshell.<br />

(“La bombe, as we say in the south,”<br />

he explains.) His deep-slashed<br />

drapery and thigh-skimming<br />

bodycon paid direct tribute to her<br />

wardrobe – and now her effortless<br />

glamour has infiltrated the spirit of<br />

the season. Take the Mediterranean<br />

beachfront as your starting point –<br />

that insouciant sensuality and warm,<br />

muted palette – add an oversized<br />

straw hat, some crafty jewellery<br />

and you’re well on your way,<br />

whether you’re summering in<br />

Cannes or closer to home. OS<br />

From left: Akiima wears wool/viscose<br />

dress, £450, Jacquemus. Wooden<br />

earrings, £20, Pebble London. Aiden<br />

wears organza dress, £850, Alberta<br />

Ferretti. Wicker earrings, £20, Pebble<br />

London. Irina wears stretch-tulle<br />

dress, from £1,895, Dolce & Gabbana.<br />

Resin earrings, £77, Dinosaur Designs<br />

THURSTAN REDDING

TRENDS<br />

Straw hat, £448,<br />

Benoît Missolin.<br />

Left: leather and<br />

wicker bag,<br />

£1,200, Miu Miu<br />

“Golden earrings or a wicker bag bring<br />

the hazy warmth of summer to your look.<br />

Seek out brands such as Neous, Cult Gaia<br />

and Benoît Missolin for polished updates<br />

on classic wood and straw accessories”<br />

Claudia Croft, acting fashion features director<br />

Above:<br />

leather sandals,<br />

£500, Jacquemus.<br />

Right: sunglasses,<br />

£169, Off-White x<br />

Sunglass Hut.<br />

Far right: suede<br />

mules, £395, Neous,<br />

at Net-a-Porter.com<br />

From far left:<br />

raffia and python<br />

shopper, £4,350,<br />

Fendi. Goldplated<br />

earrings,<br />

£390, Ellery.<br />

Below: bamboo<br />

bag, from £165,<br />

Cult Gaia<br />

PIXELATE.BIZ<br />

66

GRACE AND CHARACTER<br />

Joséphine Collection

TRENDS<br />

TAILORED<br />

From left: Aiden wears<br />

jacket, £1,050. Shorts, £350.<br />

Both Burberry. Top, £870,<br />

Valentino. Belt, £675, Prada.<br />

Sandals, from a selection,<br />

Atlein. Sunglasses, £400,<br />

Louis Vuitton. Irina wears<br />

jacket, £895. Shorts,<br />

£345. Both Joseph. Shirt,<br />

£295, Margaret Howell.<br />

Sandals, £630, Michael Kors<br />

Collection. Sunglasses, £400,<br />

Louis Vuitton. Necklace,<br />

£245, Amanda Wakeley<br />

Cotton mix, £135,<br />

Sandro<br />

SHORT<br />

ORDER<br />

From beaches to boulevards, shorts<br />

are your new summer staple – and<br />

there’s a style to suit everyone<br />

Cotton mix, £220,<br />

Self-Portrait<br />

It’s not often that Homer can<br />

claim to have his finger on<br />

the pulse of one of fashion’s<br />

biggest trends. (That’s Homer<br />

Simpson, not the epic poet.) For<br />

spring, however, you won’t go<br />

wrong if you imitate the episode<br />

in which the much-loved cartoon<br />

character dances around his living<br />

room to the Royal Teens,<br />

bellowing “I wear short shorts”.<br />

They don’t have to be short,<br />

either – though if you’re a Saint<br />

Laurent fan you’ll want to book<br />

some toning barre classes, pronto.<br />

Anthony Vaccarello’s 1980s-hued<br />

leather iterations were an<br />

exemplar of the trend, which saw<br />

skirts swapped out for shorts on<br />

the catwalk. From Prada to Louis<br />

Vuitton and Valentino, running<br />

the gamut from schoolboy slacks<br />

to athletic track shapes and<br />

pocketed cargo styles, they were<br />

everywhere. Add the cycling<br />

shorts worn under cocktail dresses<br />

and louche shirts at Nina Ricci<br />

and Chloé, and it’s clear you<br />

need to find a pair that suits you.<br />

Which shape to pick? Longer,<br />

tailored cuts will prove flattering<br />

teamed with suit jackets; while<br />

striped and printed styles have an<br />

offbeat charm. Try leather with<br />

a pair of ankle-tie sandals and a<br />

loose blouse, or utility-themed<br />

varieties with a high-necked shirt.<br />

Unless you possess the anatomy<br />

of a gazelle, wear heels. Just make<br />

sure you can dance in them. EP<br />

STRIPED<br />

PRADA<br />

LONG<br />

TIBI<br />

SPORTY<br />

LOUIS VUITTON<br />

LEATHER<br />

SAINT LAURENT<br />

UTILITY<br />

VALENTINO<br />

Linen, £70, DKNY<br />

Viscose, £250,<br />

Paul & Joe, at<br />

Net-a-Porter.com<br />

Leather, £450,<br />

Philosophy by<br />

Lorenzo Serafini<br />

Cotton mix, £385,<br />

Marques Almeida, at<br />

Matchesfashion.com<br />

THURSTAN REDDING; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ<br />

68

GRACE AND CHARACTER<br />

Liens Collection

LONDON • 16 CONDUIT STREET • LONDON W1S 2XL

BANGKOK DUBAI KIEV MOSCOW

TRENDS<br />

Happy feet<br />

Rainbow bright, bumper<br />

soled or flamboyantly tied,<br />

summer’s new sandals are<br />

a riot of fun. There’s no<br />

gain in going plain<br />

From top: leather<br />

with silk ties, from<br />

£700, Pierre Hardy.<br />

Cotton with leather ties,<br />

£495, Isabel Marant.<br />

Embellished leather,<br />

£385, Marc Jacobs.<br />

Below, from left:<br />

studded leather, £740,<br />

Prada. Embellished<br />

cotton, £980, Marni.<br />

Woven cotton, £488,<br />

Antolina Paris,<br />

at Barneys.com.<br />

Leather, £655,<br />

Sacai, at Browns<br />

THURSTAN REDDING<br />

73

TRENDS<br />

SIMONE ROCHA<br />

RODARTE<br />

Pure joy<br />

Flamboyant, flounced and<br />

full of flattering movement,<br />

the white ruffle dress is a<br />

summer delight<br />

Nothing says high summer like a white<br />

dress, but this season’s crop – cascading with<br />

extravagant frills – looks more statement<br />

than staple. Giambattista Valli set the tone<br />

with an exuberant, multi-tiered dress that<br />

demands to be danced in. Isabel Marant’s<br />

ruffled white minidress would look perfect<br />

barefoot on the beach, but the trend also has<br />

a sophisticated edge. At Proenza Schouler<br />

frills fell away to reveal a black bustier beneath,<br />

while Simone Rocha layered a lace-flounced<br />

silk slip over a pristine white shirt. Add bold<br />

silver Leigh Miller earrings and accessories<br />

accented with black and silver. CC<br />

Below, from left: cotton wrap dress, £375, Loup<br />

Charmant, at Matchesfashion.com. Silk-crêpe<br />

dress embroidered with feathers and crystals,<br />

£29,500, Ralph & Russo. Broderie anglaise<br />

dress, £795, Simone Rocha, at Net-a-Porter.com.<br />

Cotton dress, £860, Isabel Marant<br />

PROENZA SCHOULER<br />

Cotton dress, £3,000,<br />

Giambattista Valli, at<br />

Harrods. Satin sandals,<br />

£715, Lanvin. Silver<br />

earring, £360, All Blues<br />

THURSTAN REDDING; JASON LLOYD-EVANS;<br />

MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ<br />

PAIR WITH<br />

From top: earrings,<br />

£280, Leigh Miller,<br />

at Net-a-Porter.com.<br />

Bag, £1,540, Prada.<br />

Mules, £630,<br />

Manolo Blahnik<br />

75

TRENDS<br />

How I learned<br />

to love jeans<br />

Olivia Singer gave up on denim in her teens<br />

– but can the season’s glamorous new attitude<br />

persuade her to give jeans another go?<br />

Portraits by Jonathan Daniel Pryce<br />

It was during the early Noughties<br />

that I last wore a pair of jeans: an<br />

obscenely low-slung pair from Miss<br />

Sixty that pulled perfectly taut across<br />

my bony teenage hips. Then, as is the way<br />

with growing up, my body changed: my<br />

prepubescent proportions transformed<br />

into a bum and thighs, and I no longer<br />

looked like Christina Aguilera when I<br />

wriggled into them. I read magazines that<br />

compared my developing body to a fruit<br />

bowl, disappointedly determined that I<br />

was a pear, and would burst into tears<br />

when I tried on new styles in Topshop.<br />

There is no experience worse for fostering<br />

teenage insecurity than hot, brightly lit<br />

cubicles and a £25 pair of stretch jeans.<br />

So, I gave up denim for good.<br />

Once every few years I’d convince<br />

myself to try jeans again but, no matter<br />

my age or confidence, the outcome was<br />

always the same: I’d be overwhelmed by<br />

how different my body looked in them<br />

to what I’d imagined, and leave the<br />

changing room desolate and emptyhanded.<br />

Even when Vetements’ reworked<br />

Levi’s exploded into ubiquity, I simply<br />

reassured myself that I was never going<br />

to be a jeans-and-T-shirt girl. I have<br />

curves and I am not effortless in my<br />

wardrobe: I don’t wear flats and that’s<br />

fine. I’m not going to put myself through<br />

torture when I could just go to Céline.<br />

But then, this season, denim came back<br />

with a different attitude: stiff, dark and<br />

sharply tailored, it felt covetable. I braced<br />

myself and went straight to<br />

Selfridges – its denim floor holds<br />

over 700 options. A wonderful<br />

saleswoman patiently led me<br />

around and, after trying 50 or 60<br />

pairs (yes, really) whose sizes bore<br />

no parity to one another, I found<br />

a couple of options: a highwaisted,<br />

deep blue style from<br />

Diesel and a great pair from<br />

Ksenia Schnaider which fitted<br />

like trousers. (“They’re not really<br />

jeans, but you’re getting somewhere,”<br />

remarked my shopping<br />

companion.) Then I accidentally<br />

tried on a pair that made me look<br />

like a Kardashian – they were<br />

designed by Khloé, it turns out<br />

– and that overwhelming feeling<br />

of teenage insecurity resurfaced. Why<br />

was I trying to be someone I am not?<br />

I am never going to be a denim-wearing<br />

woman, skinny-legged and in possession<br />

of drawers of pristine white T-shirts and<br />

shelves filled with trainers.<br />

So, I went to Chanel – always<br />

cheering – and found a stiff-cut pair of<br />

deep blue, cropped carpenters, which I<br />

wore with a bodysuit and black courts.<br />

I went to MM6 and found a comically<br />

wide-legged, high-waisted pair that<br />

quite closely resembled a skirt: I paired<br />

them with an oversized Céline shirt and<br />

giant Margiela platforms and they made<br />

me feel fabulous. Then, I finally went<br />

to see a woman called Anna Foster, who<br />

does bespoke fitting of upcycled denim<br />

through her brand, ELV. We met in the<br />

velvet-curtained changing rooms at Alex<br />

Eagle, and she encouraged me to try on<br />

endless pairs of well-worn vintage until<br />

we found some that fitted over my<br />

thighs without clinging to them. She<br />

made me laugh as she pinned and pulled<br />

and tucked them around me. A week<br />

later, the altered pair arrived. I slipped<br />

into them without discomfort – or tears.<br />

“It’s about staying true to your style and<br />

just switching the bottom half,” she<br />

reassured and finally, after 15 years and<br />

hundreds of pairs, it hit me. I don’t need<br />

to look like a girl on the Versace runway;<br />

just like myself, only wearing jeans. Q<br />

Olivia wears shirt<br />

with lace detail,<br />

£1,000. Hoop<br />

earrings, £420. Both<br />

Céline, at 24sevres.<br />

com. Jeans, £305,<br />

MM6 Maison<br />

Margiela. Leather<br />

bag, £1,525, Loewe.<br />

Shoes, Olivia’s own.<br />

Hair: Paula<br />

McCash. Make-up:<br />

Celia Burton<br />

TOM FORD<br />

OLIVIA’S PICKS<br />

Far left: Olivia wears<br />

blazer, £2,235. Top,<br />

£750. Both Chloé, at<br />

Matchesfashion.com.<br />

Jeans, from £490,<br />

ELV Denim. Boots,<br />

£650. Hoop earrings,<br />

£460. Both Céline.<br />

Bag, £1,690, Givenchy.<br />

Jeans, from left: £395,<br />

Hillier Bartley, at<br />

Matchesfashion.com;<br />

£160, Diesel; and<br />

£985, Chanel<br />

VERSACE<br />

JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL<br />

SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ.<br />

76

© <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong> Chloé, all rights reserved.<br />

ROY<br />

in caramel ‘spazzolato sfumato’ lambskin<br />

—<br />

143, NEW BOND STREET, Mayfair, London W1S 2TP<br />

152-153, SLOANE STREET, London SW1X 9BX<br />

Chloe.com

VOGUE DARLING<br />

“Stacy Martin<br />

gave me one book,<br />

Johnny Panic and the<br />

Bible of Dreams by<br />

Sylvia Plath, at the<br />

start of filming Vox<br />

Lux and another,<br />

Just Kids by Patti<br />

Smith, at the end.<br />

The Plath one is now<br />

my favourite.”<br />

“I absolutely love hoodies,<br />

especially skate ones.<br />

I used to skateboard to<br />

school but I don’t any more<br />

because it’s all uphill.”<br />

Hoodie, £50, Santa Cruz,<br />

at Asos.com<br />

“I love making ugly<br />

faces. I’m in a WhatsApp<br />

group with friends called<br />

The Ugly Faces. I cheated<br />

the other day by using a<br />

filter. Apparently that<br />

doesn’t count.”<br />

“Home to me<br />

is on a film set,<br />

but also with<br />

my family there.<br />

When we filmed<br />

Tomorrowland<br />

they were all<br />

with us in<br />

Toronto and<br />

they were just<br />

the best days”<br />

Hula hoop,<br />

£8, DTX Fitness.<br />

Platform trainers,<br />

£85, Puma.<br />

Barrel bag, £720,<br />

Burberry<br />

“The best thing I’ve<br />

ever bought is a<br />

weighted hula hoop.<br />

It’s heavy but really<br />

fun and good for<br />

your core.”<br />

“My favourite bag is the<br />

tiniest Burberry, and the<br />

shoes I wear the most<br />

are my Puma creepers.”<br />

“I love going to fashion<br />

week. The first show<br />

I went to was Burberry,<br />

just as I was really<br />

getting into fashion<br />

design. It’s not just<br />

about a show, there’s so<br />

much more to it.”<br />

“I’ve been<br />

acting since I<br />

was seven. I film<br />

for a while, and<br />

then I have a<br />

massive break<br />

and get on<br />

with school.<br />

It’s getting the best<br />

of both worlds.”<br />

Raffey wears<br />

printed corduroy<br />

jacket, £1,300.<br />

Blouse, £780.<br />

Sweater, £395.<br />

Trousers, £600.<br />

All Chloé.<br />

Photograph by<br />

Leon Mark.<br />

Styling by<br />

Florence Arnold<br />

With Christopher<br />

Bailey; on set<br />

with Natalie<br />

Portman, below;<br />

and with George<br />

Clooney, right<br />

“Every month<br />

I create a Spotify<br />

playlist. At the<br />

moment I love<br />

Sigrid and Major<br />

Lazer. It’s quite<br />

cheesy but<br />

I really like<br />

Meghan Trainor’s<br />

new song.”<br />

RAFFEY<br />

CASSIDY<br />

Raffey Cassidy is 15 years old<br />

but her screen credits already<br />

read like those of an actress<br />

more than twice her age.<br />

Later this year she’ll star in Brady<br />

Corbet’s Vox Lux alongside Natalie<br />

Portman and Jude Law, while previous<br />

co-stars include Nicole Kidman (The<br />

Killing of a Sacred Deer), George<br />

Clooney (Tomorrowland), Brad Pitt<br />

(Allied) and Charlize Theron (Snow<br />

White and the Huntsman). Until now<br />

her age has meant mainly “child of ”<br />

roles, but as she enters her late teens,<br />

Manchester-born Cassidy is excited by<br />

the new shift in Hollywood. “There<br />

are a lot of interesting and cool parts<br />

at the moment, especially about the<br />

teenage experience. It’s a good time to<br />

be an actress.” What label would<br />

Britain’s next screen sensation choose<br />

to collect her Oscar in? “Chloé, Louis<br />

Vuitton, Chanel… or Topshop.” Q<br />

“George Clooney<br />

is such a funny, lovely<br />

man. Before filming<br />

Tomorrowland I had<br />

no idea he’s known<br />

for his pranks on set.<br />

We were a few takes<br />

in and he thought it<br />

would be funny if we<br />

hid as the cameras<br />

were meant to catch<br />

us coming out of a<br />

monorail. It helped<br />

break the ice.”<br />

“I’m absolutely<br />

addicted to<br />

organic skincare<br />

brand Pai.<br />

It’s so gentle.”<br />

Pai Rosehip<br />

BioRegenerate<br />

Oil, £22<br />

INTERVIEW: NAOMI PIKE. HAIR: PHILIPPE THOLIMET. MAKE-UP: THOM WALKER. NAILS: PEBBLES<br />

AIKENS. WITH THANKS TO SPRING STUDIOS. FRANCESCA ALLEN; GETTY; REX/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

78

© <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong> Chloé, all rights reserved.<br />

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And it tastes fabulous. Our wonderful drink is available at all your favourite places or from our website.<br />

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ROSEMARY<br />

NEVER<br />

FORGETS

The Papillon<br />

ring, donated to<br />

the V&A by<br />

Beyoncé, is now<br />

on display in<br />

the museum’s<br />

William & Judith<br />

Bollinger Gallery.<br />

Set design:<br />

Anna Burns.<br />

Digital artwork:<br />

Hennig Wargalla.<br />

With thanks to<br />

Spring Studios<br />

WINGS OF<br />

DESIRE<br />

This season’s precious gems have metamorphosed<br />

into brilliant butterflies – and one, in particular,<br />

shines especially brightly, says Carol Woolton.<br />

Photographs by Michael Baumgarten

From left: enamelled<br />

necklace with<br />

multicoloured<br />

gemstones, price<br />

on request, Dolce<br />

& Gabbana Alta<br />

Gioielleria. Pinksapphire<br />

pendant<br />

necklace, £9,950,<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels.<br />

Gold, black rhodium<br />

and diamond duet<br />

earrings, £6,800,<br />

Annoushka. White-jade<br />

and pink-diamond<br />

earrings, price on<br />

request, Moussaieff<br />

JEWELLERY<br />

The butterfly ring will be displayed here,” says Richard<br />

Edgcumbe, senior curator of metalwork at the Victoria &<br />

Albert Museum, as he peers into an empty case. Recently<br />

gifted to the V&A by Beyoncé, the ring he’s referring to is<br />

the dazzling Papillon (opposite); made by jeweller Glenn Spiro – using<br />

326 tsavorites, 342 brilliant-cut diamonds, titanium and white gold<br />

– similar pieces flutter out of his showroom for more than £70,000.<br />

Queen Bey’s butterfly goes on show for the first time this month, in<br />

the museum’s William & Judith Bollinger Gallery, and will be exhibited<br />

alongside jewels that belonged to Elizabeth I and Catherine the Great.<br />

Jewellers have copied butterflies for centuries, using fragments of<br />

precious and semi-precious gems set in gossamer-light webs of metal,<br />

and the obsession continues to this day.<br />

For his take on the butterfly, Spiro created a modern version of<br />

18th-century en tremblant designs (in which stones such as diamonds<br />

were set on the end of tiny coils, so that they quivered and caught<br />

the light to even more sparkling effect than usual) using titanium<br />

springs, so that the Papillon’s diamond antennae trembled over<br />

Beyoncé’s fingers.<br />

Spiro was hanging out with Beyoncé and Jay-Z at the Peninsula<br />

Hotel in Los Angeles when the subject of the V&A’s search for<br />

exciting examples of contemporary jewellery cropped up. “She knows<br />

the museum and immediately said she’d like to donate a jewel,”<br />

explains Glenn. “Having Beyoncé’s jewels will be transforming to<br />

the gallery,” says Edgcumbe, adjusting his tie. “To be honest we’re<br />

all a little starstruck at the thought of it.” Q

JEWELLERY<br />

White-gold and<br />

diamond ring, price<br />

on request, Boucheron<br />

Left, from top: diamond ring, price on request,<br />

G by Glenn Spiro. Diamond clip, price on request,<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels. White- and yellow-gold brooch<br />

with pearl, price on request, Buccellati. Diamond<br />

and orange-sapphire brooch, price on request.<br />

Gold and diamond brooch, £48,000. Both<br />

Lorraine Schwartz, at Harrods. Diamond clip,<br />

price on request, Van Cleef & Arpels<br />

With rings on<br />

her fingers and<br />

hoops in her<br />

Above, from left:<br />

mother-of-pearl and<br />

diamond brooch, £10,800,<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels. Gold<br />

and diamond pendant<br />

necklace, £4,940, Chopard<br />

Diamond earrings<br />

with sapphire and<br />

emerald beads, price<br />

on request, Bulgari<br />

White-gold and<br />

diamond ring,<br />

£17,100, Saqqara,<br />

at Browns

ARTS & CULTURE<br />

AND<br />

STILL<br />

WE RISE<br />

In the paintings of Toyin<br />

Ojih Odutola, Zadie Smith<br />

uncovers an exhilarating<br />

alternative history – and<br />

a sensational new talent<br />

RON AMSTUTZ<br />

This past mid-winter in New<br />

York was a bleak one: blustery<br />

and cold, daily darkened by the<br />

news from Washington. But<br />

from October to February, if you were<br />

looking to come in from the cold –<br />

seeking some place to warm yourself, body<br />

and soul – you could make your way to<br />

the ground floor of the Whitney Museum<br />

of American Art. There, the young<br />

painter Toyin Ojih Odutola offered the<br />

weary an alternative to American dystopia<br />

– African utopia. Specifically, a Nigerian<br />

beau monde of aristocrats and ambassadors,<br />

of louche Afrotrash princelings (on<br />

honeymoon with each other, pictured<br />

in front of Instagram-worthy Venetian<br />

wallpaper), of black barons and baronesses<br />

surveying their country estates, and<br />

glamorous African It-girls posed in their<br />

finest threads. My favourite was First<br />

Night at Boarding School. An adorable<br />

Little Lord Fauntleroy – about 10 years<br />

old and fighting off sleep – lay between<br />

unfamiliar bedcovers, his elegant Afro<br />

set at a fretful angle upon his pillow. He<br />

looked pampered but anxious: you could<br />

see he missed the silk sheets back home,<br />

his family, the well-stocked playroom,<br />

that kind maid who brings the milk.<br />

These were the extent of his worries. If<br />

only every black boy in America had<br />

worries like these!<br />

“If only” is the sign under which<br />

Odutola works. If only slavery had never<br />

happened. If only African families<br />

had never been broken and serially<br />

traumatised. If only Africa’s wealth had<br />

never dispersed to the four corners of<br />

the globe nor her tribal differentiations<br />

been lost in the wanderings of her<br />

diaspora. For though the name of<br />

the show was To Wander Determined,<br />

Odutola’s people do no wandering<br />

through the wilderness because they<br />

have no need to – the promised land<br />

was never lost. Instead, the past 600<br />

years of dispersion and displacement have<br />

been magically replaced by consolidation:<br />

of wealth, of heritage, of privilege itself.<br />

A plaque on the wall grandly informs<br />

us that these paintings come from the<br />

“private collections” of two fictional<br />

Nigerian aristocratic clans – the UmuEze<br />

Amara and the Obafemi – who are<br />

connected by the marriage of their eldest<br />

sons (to each other). Standing amid these<br />

life-size fictional portraits is like entering<br />

a Nigerian novel of high society written<br />

by an African Edith Wharton, and in its<br />

richly detailed fantasy recalls other recent,<br />

triumphant examples of the black ><br />

Toyin Ojih Odutola,<br />

photographed by<br />

Jason Schmidt.<br />

Top left: the artist’s<br />

Representatives of<br />

State (2<strong>01</strong>6-2<strong>01</strong>7)<br />

89

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and will be renewed at the rate of 6 for £19.50.

ARTS & CULTURE<br />

Odutola’s 2<strong>01</strong>7<br />

paintings included<br />

First Night at<br />

Boarding School<br />

(left); Unclaimed<br />

Estates (below); and<br />

(bottom right, from<br />

top) Unfinished<br />

Commission of the<br />

Late Baroness; and<br />

The Missionary<br />

RON AMSTUTZ<br />

imaginary: the smash-hit movie Black<br />

Panther, say, in which Wakanda, a nation<br />

state of great wealth and advanced<br />

technology, lies hidden within the<br />

African continent; or Kehinde Wiley’s<br />

regal depictions of black youth; or Donald<br />

Glover’s Emmy-laden TV experiment<br />

Atlanta. Call it the Afroternative!<br />

Certainly, there has been a departure from<br />

the social realism once expected of black<br />

artists, and a move towards the liberty of<br />

imagining other possible worlds, a radical<br />

and essential freedom in these times. In<br />

fact, the longer I spent with the UmuEze<br />

Amara and the Obafemi, the more it<br />

seemed possible that their world was<br />

reality and outside the gallery was where<br />

the truly outrageous fiction lived, the<br />

one in which a sitting American president<br />

just contained every country in Africa<br />

within a pitiful scatological expletive.<br />

Odutola was born in Ife, Nigeria, in<br />

1985, and raised in Alabama. She now<br />

resides in New York, where she is a<br />

central light in a thrilling new generation<br />

of black artists that includes her childhood<br />

friend, the Ghanaian-American novelist<br />

Yaa Gyasi, the musician and downtown<br />

alt-star Dev Hynes (Blood Orange) and<br />

the singer and performance artist<br />

Solange Knowles (who is, alongside her<br />

husband, Alan Ferguson, both an<br />

occasional model for Odutola’s portraits<br />

and a frequent collector of them). But<br />

if the traditional relationship between<br />

painter and patron is one of unadorned<br />

artisan and uber-glamorous client,<br />

Odutola disrupts all that. Strikingly<br />

beautiful and startlingly well dressed, in<br />

photos patron and artist seemed clipped<br />

from the very world Odutola paints so<br />

beautifully: two aristocratic African<br />

sisters, just about ready to tear up the<br />

(down)town. And that’s the funny thing<br />

about Odutola: Nigerian high life – as<br />

I’m sure she’s well aware – is not only<br />

an alternative fantasy but a present<br />

reality, and I confess that this Caribbean-<br />

<strong>British</strong> viewer’s first assumption was that<br />

these sumptuous portraits represented<br />

real people. Were they members of the<br />

kind of “Afropolitan” elite well described<br />

by the (equally glamorous) globe-trotting<br />

Ghanaian-Nigerian writer Taiye Selasi?<br />

Or maybe the children of those oil-rich<br />

Nigerian millionaires and billionaires<br />

whose comings and goings are faithfully<br />

recorded in the Lagos gossip rags? I<br />

thought of those lines of Maya Angelou:<br />

“Does my sassiness upset you?/ Why are<br />

you beset with gloom?/ ’Cause I walk like<br />

I’ve got oil wells/ Pumping in my living<br />

room.” Maya was speaking metaphorically<br />

but in the New Nigeria, oil really is the<br />

source of enormous, if unequally spread,<br />

wealth. The same viewer who walks out<br />

of Black Panther wondering whether a<br />

militaristic and technocratic monarchy is<br />

truly an African vision to which we should<br />

all aspire, might also ask herself if there<br />

are further dreams we can have about<br />

an un-stolen and un-colonised Africa that<br />

will turn away from the kind of Rich Kids<br />

of Instagram fantasies we’re sold every day.<br />

And yet, on the other hand, it’s clear<br />

that Odutola is interested in inherited ><br />

Standing<br />

amid these<br />

portraits is<br />

like entering<br />

a Nigerian<br />

novel written<br />

by an<br />

African Edith<br />

Wharton<br />

91

ARTS & CULTURE<br />

By Her Design (far<br />

left); Pregnant (left);<br />

and Excavations<br />

(bottom left), all<br />

painted by Odutola<br />

last year. Below:<br />

Newlyweds on<br />

Holiday (2<strong>01</strong>6)<br />

Odutola<br />

knows<br />

exactly what<br />

she is doing<br />

and has<br />

many more<br />

journeys to<br />

take us on yet<br />

wealth not so much in itself as for what<br />

it represents: self-determination. Part<br />

of her project is precisely to give to black<br />

subjects what those rich Instagram<br />

kids so like to display: the luxury of<br />

journeying wherever you want to go, and<br />

the freedom to indulge concerns that<br />

begin and end with the self: “I wanted<br />

to show historically oppressed bodies<br />

in control not only of themselves but in<br />

control of the impetus to travel, of their<br />

need to exist in the world and not be in<br />

control of anything else but themselves.<br />

The only thing I knew could cut to the<br />

heart of that was Manifest Destiny [the<br />

19th-century belief that white settlers<br />

were “destined” to expand across North<br />

America], so there’s a lot of Manifest<br />

Destiny-like, Hudson River School<br />

situations going on in these works.” As<br />

Toni Morrison famously defined it,<br />

racism, to the black person, is primarily<br />

a tool of distraction: it drags us away<br />

from the proper pursuit of our own<br />

interests, dreams, plans, projects, ideas.<br />

In this context, Odutola’s paintings ask<br />

a vital question: what would we be like<br />

if we had never been distracted? But is<br />

a black version of Manifest Destiny a<br />

true alternate vision or just the flip side<br />

of the same coin? Is hoarded black<br />

wealth the only correct response to its<br />

white equivalent? You won’t get any easy<br />

answers from these paintings: just like<br />

the strange interiors in which these<br />

privileged families live, some of the<br />

angles are deliberately absurd and the<br />

perspectives impossible; bizarrely<br />

shaped bricks hold up dubious windows,<br />

and landscapes look like fabric and vice<br />

versa. A fantasy doesn’t need to make<br />

sense. But it can still have power, and<br />

there is something deeply exhilarating<br />

in contemplating a newly married,<br />

gorgeous gay couple, who by their union<br />

have brought two grand Nigerian<br />

families together in a country which we<br />

know, in reality, has recently outlawed<br />

the very existence of homosexuality.<br />

I think Odutola, who, at only 32, has<br />

already passed through several modes<br />

and styles – most noticeably from<br />

ballpoint pen to chalk and pastel –<br />

knows exactly what she is doing and has<br />

many more journeys to take us on yet.<br />

If anyone can paint an alternative to the<br />

alternative, it’s her. What will that look<br />

like? It happened that the day after I<br />

visited Odutola’s paintings was the day<br />

that the American novelist Ursula K Le<br />

Guin – that master of alternative realities<br />

– died, and for all of us wondering what<br />

force to place against the forces presently<br />

working against us (more of the same?<br />

Or something entirely different?), Le<br />

Guin, in one of her final radio interviews,<br />

offered some advice: “My guess is that<br />

the kind of thinking we are, at last,<br />

beginning to do about how to change<br />

the goals of human domination and<br />

unlimited growth to those of human<br />

adaptability and long-term survival, is<br />

a shift from yang to yin, and so involves<br />

acceptance of impermanence and<br />

imperfection, a patience with uncertainty<br />

and the makeshift, a friendship with<br />

water, darkness and the earth.”<br />

Is the choice really between wealthy<br />

conquerors and dispossessed victims, or<br />

can we imagine an Afroternative to both?<br />

Maybe it’s in Odutola’s yin-like depictions<br />

of black skin – multi-layered, mobile, full<br />

of depth and character, earthy, imperfect,<br />

but beautiful – that the most exciting<br />

possibilities lie. Look closely and you’ll<br />

see no flat plane of colour but instead<br />

rivers and roads, paths and arrows,<br />

seeming to trace the many possible future<br />

directions of one of the most exciting<br />

young artists working today. Q<br />

Toyin Ojih Odutola’s work is on display<br />

at Talisman in the Age of Difference at<br />

the Stephen Friedman Gallery, W1,<br />

from June 8 to July 28<br />

ALL ARTWORKS COURTESY OF JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK. RON AMSTUTZ<br />

92

superga.co.uk

Some like it Scot<br />

Thanks to a flurry of new openings and a<br />

much-anticipated film, Scotland is where<br />

the fashionable crowd is heading this year<br />

STAR<br />

ATTRACTION<br />

September sees the long-awaited<br />

opening of the V&A Dundee on<br />

the bank of the River Tay. The<br />

museum’s spectacular exterior<br />

is a nod to the dramatic cliffs<br />

found along the coast of eastern<br />

Scotland, but it’s a permanent<br />

collection focusing on Scottish<br />

design that will make it worth the<br />

trip, with treasures ranging from<br />

a 15th-century illuminated book<br />

of hours to a diamond Valkyrie<br />

tiara by Cartier. At the heart of<br />

the space is a recreation of an<br />

oak-panelled tea room designed<br />

by Charles Rennie Mackintosh<br />

in 1907. Vandadundee.org<br />

Top: the V&A Dundee<br />

will open in September.<br />

Above: a 15th-century<br />

illuminated book of hours<br />

NORTHERN BITES<br />

Check in to the Killiehuntly Farmhouse & Cottage, a 19th-century estate-turnedhotel<br />

in the Cairngorms, for stunning farm-to-table dishes such as wild venison<br />

or salt-baked brown trout. To feast alfresco, turn to Amanda Farnese Heath<br />

of Mad March Hare, who arranges wild dining experiences around the east<br />

of Scotland; events include a candlelit dinner beside<br />

a loch on the 18th-century Balgone Estate and a<br />

seven-course feast near Tyninghame. Or go foraging<br />

with Galloway Wild Foods – trips range from<br />

mushroom hunting along the border to gathering<br />

seaweed in the Sound of Arisaig. Killiehuntly.scot;<br />

Themadmarchhare.com; Gallowaywildfoods.com<br />

Killiehuntly Farmhouse in<br />

the Cairngorms and, below<br />

left, a dish fresh from its<br />

kitchen. Right: wild dining<br />

with Mad March Hare<br />

94

LIVING<br />

LOCAL<br />

KNOWLEDGE<br />

A ROYAL ROMP<br />

Saoirse Ronan (above) transforms into Scotland’s ill-fated<br />

Catholic queen in Josie Rourke’s much-hyped biopic Mary,<br />

Queen of Scots, shot at locations such as Blackness Castle in<br />

Linlithgow and the wild valleys of Strathdon. Before it hits<br />

cinemas this autumn, retrace the Stuart queen’s footsteps<br />

through her realm by visiting some of its lesser-known – but<br />

no less remarkable – landmarks…<br />

DUNDRENNAN<br />

ABBEY<br />

The doomed<br />

royal spent her last<br />

hours in Scotland<br />

in this remote<br />

12th-century abbey<br />

INCHMAHOME<br />

PRIORY<br />

Mary took refuge<br />

from the Tudors in this<br />

monastery on an island<br />

in the middle of the<br />

Lake of Menteith<br />

FALKLAND PALACE<br />

& GARDEN<br />

The lavish renaissance<br />

palace reminded the<br />

queen of the French<br />

chateaux where she<br />

spent her childhood<br />

WHISKY GALORE<br />

Whisky is the spirit of the moment, with 10 new Scottish<br />

distilleries opening this year alone. Ardnahoe on the Isle of<br />

Islay offers stunning views of neighbouring Jura from its floorto-ceiling<br />

glass walls, while the reopening of the much-lauded<br />

Port Ellen distillery, after more than 30 years, will be warmly<br />

welcomed by single-malt connoisseurs. The Clydeside Distillery<br />

in Glasgow, set in a former pump house near Zaha Hadid’s<br />

Riverside Museum, was the first to open in the city in more<br />

than a century. Ardnahoedistillery.com; Theclydeside.com<br />

CHRISTOPHER KANE<br />

“I’ve always loved the<br />

Gleneagles Hotel & Spa in<br />

Perthshire, where a weekend<br />

is as restorative as a fortnight<br />

anywhere else. The Andrew<br />

Fairlie restaurant there is<br />

also pretty heavenly, serving<br />

dishes like home-smoked<br />

Scottish lobster (above)<br />

and roe deer.”<br />

STELLA TENNANT<br />

“Scotland never ceases<br />

to amaze me, even after<br />

all these years. My latest<br />

discovery is the Bothy<br />

Project, a network of handcrafted<br />

dwellings made by<br />

artists in remote locations<br />

– and available to rent.<br />

Sweeney’s, on Eigg (below)<br />

is my idea of heaven… until<br />

the midges come out.”<br />

CHARLES JEFFREY<br />

“No trip to Scotland is<br />

complete without a stopover<br />

in Glasgow: visit Mr Ben for<br />

the best vintage clothes; have<br />

a White Russian and/or a pint<br />

of Buckfast at Nice N Sleazy;<br />

then head to Kelvingrove<br />

Park for a picnic.”<br />

REMOTE ACCESS<br />

When it opened in 2<strong>01</strong>4, the Hauser & Wirth arts<br />

centre in Somerset made the village of Bruton the<br />

fashionable crowd’s go-to weekend spot. For their<br />

next project, owners Iwan and Manuela Wirth have<br />

restored a 19th-century hunting lodge in Braemar,<br />

in the Cairngorms. The Fife Arms (above) has 46<br />

rooms by Russell Sage, the interior designer behind<br />

the Zetter Townhouse, and a world-class collection<br />

of art. Prepare for a deluge of social-media posts<br />

when it opens later this year. Thefifearms.com<br />

LOOM-LADEN<br />

Head to Shetland for some of<br />

the world’s finest crafts, such<br />

as hand-woven tweeds and<br />

intricate lace. But the<br />

ultimate memento is a Fair<br />

Isle sweater, inspiration<br />

for designers from Nicolas<br />

Ghesquière to Sarah<br />

Burton. There are only a<br />

handful of traditional<br />

producers left, but crofter<br />

Mati Ventrillon still makes<br />

bespoke knits based on 19thcentury<br />

patterns. Be warned –<br />

her waiting list can stretch to<br />

more than a year.<br />

Mativentrillon.co.uk<br />

LOUIS VUITTON<br />

ALEXANDER McQUEEN<br />

COMPILED BY HAYLEY MAITLAND. VENETIA SCOTT;<br />

ALAMY; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; ALLAN POLLOK MORRIS;<br />

REX FEATURES; MITCHELL SAMS<br />

STEAM POWER<br />

With its mahogany-panelled carriages<br />

and tartan-clad Edwardian-style<br />

furnishings, a trip aboard the Belmond<br />

Royal Scotsman has always been the<br />

most luxurious way to see the Highlands,<br />

with journeys taking in wild glens,<br />

pristine lochs and ruined castles. Now,<br />

there’s yet another reason to book a<br />

cabin: the on-board Bamford Haybarn<br />

Spa – the only one of its kind in Britain<br />

– where travellers can indulge in a<br />

bespoke facial or de-stressing massage.<br />

Belmond.com<br />

The Belmond<br />

Royal Scotsman<br />

wends its way<br />

through the<br />

Highlands. Left:<br />

the on-board spa<br />

95

littlegreene.com<br />

Colours of England<br />

Showrooms | Colour Consultancy<br />

LONDON PARIS MUNICH<br />

Order your free colourcard, or find your nearest stockist at littlegreene.com

LIVING<br />

Below: the pillows<br />

in textile maven<br />

Nathalie Farman-<br />

Farma’s master<br />

bedroom are made<br />

from Ukrainian<br />

folk costumes. The<br />

quilt is a vintage<br />

American find<br />

House<br />

of prints<br />

Nathalie Farman-<br />

Farma is the textile<br />

designer you need<br />

to know. Hayley<br />

Maitland steps<br />

inside her riotously<br />

patterned London<br />

home. Photographs<br />

by Dylan Thomas<br />

Set on the corner of a quiet green near London’s Sloane<br />

Square, Nathalie Farman-Farma’s Grade II listed<br />

townhouse is a study in elegant juxtapositions: ornate<br />

Russian dolls sit next to lavish necklaces from central<br />

Asia; a dizzying number of 19th-century patterns cover the<br />

floors and walls; vibrant French blues complement deep<br />

Ottoman reds. In the dining room alone, the eye jumps from<br />

a gilt Persian lantern to the velvet Napoleon III chair to a<br />

mesmerising Bessarabian rug. A selection of folk embroidery,<br />

collected by the Russian noblewoman Natalia de Shabelsky<br />

during her travels in the 19th century, hangs in dark wood<br />

frames – set against dramatic wallpaper featuring ruby-red<br />

pomegranates. (Many of the rest of De Shabelsky’s finds now<br />

belong to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.) Also on display<br />

are oil paintings of Russian émigrés’ homes in Paris by<br />

Alexander Serebriakov – an artist known for capturing the<br />

houses of everyone from Coco Chanel to the Duke and<br />

Duchess of Windsor.<br />

Farman-Farma and her husband, Amir, bought the house<br />

in prime Chelsea just over a decade ago – and purchased the<br />

high-ceilinged, light-filled artist’s studio next door in 2<strong>01</strong>5.<br />

It’s from here that the 50-year-old French-American runs her<br />

textile-design business, Décors Barbares, for which she sources<br />

19th-century fabrics from a network of dealers stretching ><br />

Above: Farman-<br />

Farma in her<br />

first-floor sitting<br />

room. She wears a<br />

dress by La Double J<br />

and shoes by Malone<br />

Souliers. Hair:<br />

Selena Middleton.<br />

Make-up: Alice<br />

Howlett. Styling<br />

Gianluca Longo.<br />

Sittings editor:<br />

Naomi Smart<br />

99

LIVING<br />

Lined with books,<br />

Farman-Farma’s<br />

library-cumstudio<br />

is where<br />

she runs her<br />

textile company,<br />

Décors Barbares<br />

Above: the Farman-Farmas host their celebrated parties in<br />

the light-filled dining room off the studio. Right, from top: a bust<br />

that once belonged to Madeleine Castaing; potted plants and<br />

climbers fill the courtyard garden<br />

from Odessa to Lisbon, and reprints their patterns in a<br />

150-year-old French workshop. “I named the studio after the<br />

Ballet Russes, which was considered barbares when the company<br />

was performing in Paris in the early 20th century,” she explains,<br />

her tone a mixture of socialite’s warmth and academic gravitas.<br />

“I share the obsession with tribal culture and folklore from<br />

across Asia found in their costumes, design, and music.”<br />

Since Décors Barbares launched in 2<strong>01</strong>0, a fashionable<br />

network of in-the-know clients has come to rely on Farman-<br />

Farma’s taste – and her encyclopedic historical knowledge.<br />

Lauren Santo Domingo, the upscale internet entrepreneur,<br />

commissioned her to find a special wall hanging for her library;<br />

Violet von Westenholz, who played matchmaker to Prince<br />

Harry and Meghan Markle, is a huge fan of her fabrics; and<br />

Tory Burch uses her Eté Moscovite design for her table linens.<br />

This morning, Farman-Farma is arranging lilacs in silver<br />

vases at a table in her studio (Mayfair gallery-cum-florist<br />

TukTuk Flower Studio delivers seasonal blooms from the<br />

Cotswolds to the house weekly). It’s here she hosts dinner<br />

parties for close friends (Duro Olowu and Cabana magazine<br />

founder Martina Mondadori are among her inner circle),<br />

serving Persian feasts while Sufi musicians perform. “Being<br />

Iranian, my husband believes a party should always have live<br />

music – usually featuring him on drums,” she says with a laugh.<br />

Farman-Farma can trace her love of 19th-century design<br />

back to her childhood near Saint-Germain-en-Laye, a Parisian<br />

suburb filled with ornate belle époque homes. “As a 16-yearold,<br />

I used to make pilgrimages to Madeleine Castaing’s shop<br />

on the Left Bank for fabrics and antiques,” she explains. “Her<br />

style was literary, eclectic, and daring. She was the one who<br />

taught me the critical importance that each detail holds in ><br />

1<strong>01</strong>

LIVING<br />

A Castaing print carpet<br />

in the bathroom contrasts<br />

with jewellery sourced<br />

from Venice to the Caucasus<br />

102<br />

Above: the curtains<br />

were inspired by<br />

a family member’s<br />

Turkmen robes. Below:<br />

a Russian icon, bought<br />

in a Manhattan<br />

antiques shop<br />

a space.” The legendary decorator’s influence is felt in her<br />

house today, from the spring-green carpet in the bathroom<br />

– a Castaing print – to the bust on top of a piano that once<br />

belonged to the decorator herself.<br />

Originally, Farman-Farma planned to be an academic. Her<br />

father’s job as head of the American branch of Crédit Lyonnais<br />

meant a relocation to Connecticut in her teens, then degrees<br />

in classics at Brown and Columbia took her on research trips<br />

across the Middle East. “I had always thought that I would<br />

be a professor,” she says. “I specialised in the late Greeks.” It<br />

was back in America on a trip to the Hamptons, however,<br />

that she met her future husband, a prominent financier, and<br />

life changed again. Seven years and a spectacular Persian<br />

wedding later, and the couple decided to return to Amir’s<br />

adopted city of London to raise their children, Alexander,<br />

15, and Rose, 13. “By that point, I had been living in and<br />

around Manhattan for more than a decade – and like any<br />

good New Yorker, I was determined to have everything within<br />

walking distance, which is possible in Chelsea,” she explains.<br />

“As for the studio, it reminded me of my family’s lake house<br />

in California, in the sense that it was a complete haven.”<br />

The dining<br />

room in the main<br />

house features<br />

a table and<br />

chairs covered in<br />

Décors Barbares’<br />

Aurel fabric<br />

As soon as she moved in, Farman-Farma transformed the<br />

interiors down to the last doorknob – with her husband’s<br />

background providing a key influence. A descendant of the<br />

19th-century Qajar dynasty, he fled Iran during the revolution.<br />

“When I met Amir, he brought this whirl of colour into my<br />

life,” she says, leading me down into the main house. “I became<br />

fascinated by Iranian miniatures – the way that each one<br />

features countless different patterns yet none of them seem<br />

to clash – and I realised that I was going to apply that same<br />

logic to my home.”<br />

Every room is a testament to her love affair with Persia<br />

and beyond. “That’s the problem,” she confides. “Once you<br />

start finding these sorts of treasures – and looking into their<br />

stories – it’s difficult to stop hunting for them.” As if on cue,<br />

the doorbell rings: a 19th-century end table recently purchased<br />

from a dealer has arrived. “I just loved the details,” she says,<br />

stroking the inlaid mother-of-pearl top. “It’s carved in a neofolk<br />

way – as if it was designed by the William Morris of the<br />

East. It could be from Russia – or maybe the Caucasus. I’m<br />

still doing my research. There’s a really helpful volume in my<br />

studio…” And, just like that, she’s away. Q

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Ernest Jones has long been established<br />

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the pleasure of making a purchase,<br />

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18ct white-gold and<br />

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earrings, £2,999<br />

“Everlasting<br />

style and<br />

quality<br />

of design<br />

express both<br />

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Ronnie Cooke<br />

Newhouse and<br />

Jonathan<br />

Newhouse<br />

Above left: Natalia Vodianova. Above right:<br />

Anya Taylor-Joy. Below: Timothée Chalamet,<br />

Raf Simons and Jean-Georges d’Orazio<br />

DJ Fat<br />

Tony and<br />

Kate Moss<br />

Salma<br />

Hayek and<br />

Naomi<br />

Campbell<br />

Steve McQueen<br />

Lights, cameras,<br />

fashion…<br />

Above: Noomi Rapace and Lyndell<br />

Mansfield. Below: Tinie Tempah<br />

When the Baftas collided with London Fashion Week, the<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> Fashion and Film Party, in partnership with Tiffany, was<br />

a fabulous inevitability. But what location could comfortably<br />

host 450 stars? Only the freshly spruced Annabel’s, the<br />

legendary Mayfair club that’s just had a glamorous relocation<br />

and makeover, would do. Jointly hosted by <strong>Vogue</strong> editor Edward<br />

Enninful, and contributing editors Naomi Campbell, Kate<br />

Moss and Steve McQueen, the party was a megawatt affair,<br />

not least because Tiffany had lent its magic to necklines and<br />

wrists. Sienna Miller, Elle Fanning, Greta Gerwig, Tom Hardy,<br />

Daniel Kaluuya and Leonardo DiCaprio mingled with Lewis<br />

Hamilton, Raf Simons and Zendaya. Meanwhile Virgil Abloh<br />

and Mos Def tore up the dancefloor with a set that saw Robert<br />

Pattinson, Idris Elba and Jourdan Dunn dancing well into the<br />

night. As christenings go, this was a blinder. EP<br />

Below, from left: Edie Campbell; and Richard Caring.<br />

Below right: Chiwetel Ejiofor and Frances Aaternir<br />

Paloma Faith and<br />

Adwoa Aboah<br />

Cara Taylor, Shanelle<br />

Nyasiase, Fran Summers,<br />

Hannah Motler and<br />

Imari Karanja<br />

Alexa<br />

Chung<br />

Above: Rita Ora and Liam Payne.<br />

Below: Charlotte Tilbury, Amber<br />

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DARREN GERRISH; JAMES D KELLY; KEVIN TACHMAN; GETTY

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Halima Aden<br />

From top: Skepta; Vanessa Kingori<br />

and Aicha McKenzie; Dermot O’Leary<br />

and Dee Koppang O’Leary. Below:<br />

Zendaya and Darnell Appling<br />

Derek<br />

Blasberg and<br />

Lauren Santo<br />

Domingo<br />

Greta<br />

Gerwig<br />

Ruth<br />

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Dress: Kage, Boots: Gina, Earrings: Elsa O<br />

IMAGE<br />

STYLED BY<br />

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VIEWPOINT<br />

ADWOA WEARS JACKET, MATTHEW ADAMS DOLAN. MAKE-UP: CELIA BURTON. NAILS: PEBBLES AIKENS<br />

A NEW<br />

SCENE<br />

This month, Adwoa Aboah discusses a just-launched<br />

theatre company that champions talent from all<br />

backgrounds, and holds a special place in her heart.<br />

Portrait by Scott Trindle. Styling by Jack Borkett<br />

The creative industries can be a particularly difficult<br />

place to get your first big break – so when my friend<br />

Gala Gordon told me about her new theatre company,<br />

Platform Presents, I wholeheartedly got on board. A<br />

non-profit company dedicated to championing emerging talent<br />

from all backgrounds, its principles directly resonate with my<br />

personal interests. “I’m passionate about creating a space for people<br />

to be heard – particularly women,” she explained to me. “Right<br />

now is such an exciting time of change, where women and<br />

collectives are celebrated for their challenging new ideas, and it<br />

is our responsibility to support that.” Like many creative arenas,<br />

theatre is impacted by gender inequality: while women make up<br />

half of its workforce, their voices are missing from senior positions.<br />

“After working as an actress, I realised I wanted to be part of<br />

every decision made. It feels incredibly empowering,” says Gala.<br />

This month sees the launch of Platform Presents’ first full<br />

production: Blueberry Toast, a play by Mary Laws on the complexities<br />

of family dynamics. “It’s about what happens after you find your<br />

happily ever after,” said Gala. It’s set to be one of the most exciting<br />

moments of the months ahead. The time for change is now – and<br />

Platform Presents is helping to make that happen. Q<br />

Blueberry Toast is at the Soho Theatre, W1, from May 24 to June 30<br />

107

VIEWPOINT<br />

Below: Nora<br />

Ephron, on left, on<br />

the set of 1992’s<br />

This Is My Life, her<br />

adaptation of Meg<br />

Wolitzer’s novel.<br />

Bottom: a still<br />

from the film<br />

Only<br />

connect<br />

Novelist Meg Wolitzer delights in that special<br />

alchemy between mentor and protégée<br />

Ialways love the moment when, during a movie awards<br />

ceremony, some actor, tight-voiced with emotion, thanks<br />

his long-ago teacher. It’s resonant and sentimental – the<br />

big star imagined as vulnerable and young again, with<br />

vaguely the same face but also a 1970s haircut and a dreary<br />

school uniform; and the teacher aged or perhaps gone from<br />

the world. And I also respond to the notion that that<br />

connection made all the difference. There’s no way to prove<br />

it, of course: would the actor ever have done well without the<br />

ministrations of that kind woman in a cardigan who directed<br />

the fifth-grade production of The Crucible? We can’t ever know.<br />

But what I really love is the simple connection between two<br />

people, and how that moment apparently lit a spark.<br />

I am one of those people who feels very grateful to several<br />

different older people I met when I was young. I can say now<br />

that, sure, in each case I was something of a protégée, and<br />

the other person was therefore a kind of mentor, though at<br />

the time I don’t think either of us thought of it that way. The<br />

words mentor and protégée are so formal that it can seem as<br />

if both people are taking part in some elaborate folk dance<br />

– perhaps a gavotte – with individual steps and parts to learn.<br />

In fact, there are no prescribed parts, and this is something<br />

I’ve figured out over time. Early on in my life, a favourite<br />

teacher invited me up to her desk during class, while the<br />

other kids were diligently filling out worksheets that<br />

commanded them to “colour the pumpkins orange”. Above<br />

those rapidly moving hands, with orange crayons flying and<br />

mouths open in concentration, I went up to Mrs Gerbe’s<br />

desk, and she told me that she had a feeling that I liked to<br />

write stories.<br />

“Is that true, Margaret?” she wanted to know.<br />

From left: Meg<br />

Wolitzer, right, at<br />

summer camp in<br />

upstate New York,<br />

1967, with her<br />

mother, Hilma, and<br />

older sister, Nancy;<br />

with Nancy in New<br />

York, 1966; on<br />

Jones Beach in<br />

California, 1968<br />

“Yes,” I said in a parched voice of extreme shyness.<br />

“It’s true.”<br />

“Well,” she said, “why don’t you tell me a story and I’ll<br />

write it down for you? It’ll go faster that way, and be easier<br />

for you.”<br />

From then on, whenever there was a moment of pumpkincolouring<br />

or triangle-cutting, Mrs Gerbe summoned me,<br />

and together we amassed a pile of short stories, which my<br />

mother has saved to this day. Granted, none of them was<br />

“good” good (I was seven), but what they showed me, then<br />

and now, was how a lightly lobbed orb of encouragement can<br />

have an effect. Mrs Gerbe had noticed my interest, rather<br />

than any fully developed talent. She was struck by my<br />

excitement more than anything.<br />

Years later, I reconnected with my teacher when she came<br />

to a reading I gave. We were entirely different people then.<br />

I was no longer Margaret, and she was no longer Mrs Gerbe,<br />

but was instead now Ruth. Ruth! As in, “Call me Ruth.” It<br />

seemed so strange to call her this, but I did. We had<br />

graduated to different stages in our lives, and there was<br />

some melancholy in this fact, from my perspective, but also<br />

a certain gratification. I enjoyed getting a chance to tell her<br />

what she had meant to me when I was very young – my<br />

own little low-level Academy Awards speech – and I think<br />

she enjoyed hearing it, too.<br />

Many years later, the writer Nora Ephron decided to direct<br />

a film based on my third novel; it was my work that brought<br />

her to me, and for a long time after that, as we became friends,<br />

she was someone to whom I always showed my novels as<br />

soon as I had finished them. She would call and say something<br />

exactly right; the thing I needed, or wanted, to hear. Her<br />

words were like a work accelerant; they made me want to<br />

generate more, and figure things out.<br />

The encouragement of an older, esteemed person can be<br />

a gift; and like most gifts, the recipient is meant to use it any<br />

way she likes. If, like a child at Christmas, she wants to toss<br />

the gift aside and simply play with the cardboard box it came<br />

in, that should be all right too. She should not have to answer<br />

the question, months later, “Where is that sweater I gave<br />

you? I never see you wear it.”<br />

We live in such a transactional world, one in which we are<br />

constantly signalling what we want from one another. A good<br />

mentor – and she may not know she’s even fulfilling that role<br />

– has no expectations of what will become of the person she is<br />

encouraging. In that freedom, invention sometimes begins. Q<br />

REX/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

108

essentials<br />

This captivating new series from Conran Octopus and <strong>British</strong> <strong>Vogue</strong> explores the key pieces in<br />

a stylish woman’s wardrobe. High-quality books, they feature photographs from<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong>’s peerless archive of more than a million images, with some of the best fashion<br />

photography of all time. Begin your collection now and revisit them forever.<br />

£15<br />

EACH<br />

ON SALE NOW

TECH<br />

“With my physical job, it’s a priority<br />

to stay in peak form. This TheraGun<br />

G2Pro is amazing for removing muscle<br />

stiffness. It gives lasting results in<br />

minutes.” £549, Theragun.co.uk<br />

“I give myself home<br />

facials with the Carita<br />

My CLE device, which<br />

combines micro-current<br />

technology with LED therapy<br />

to firm and smooth.”<br />

£399, Carita.com<br />

“Living in California, we spend a lot of<br />

time outdoors. The Big Green Egg is the<br />

grill of all grills – I love to add aromatic<br />

applewood chips to infuse the food with<br />

flavour.” £995, Biggreenegg.co.uk<br />

“These wireless<br />

noise-cancelling<br />

Beats headphones<br />

are perfect for<br />

multi-tasking.<br />

When I use them<br />

with iCloud, I can<br />

switch seamlessly<br />

from a phone call<br />

to a movie to my<br />

iPad Pro.” £300,<br />

Apple.co.uk<br />

“The breath is a powerful tool<br />

for wellbeing, and the Spire Stone<br />

– a wearable device that works<br />

with an app – helps me to stay fit<br />

and de-stress by tracking my<br />

activity and tension levels, and<br />

breathing.” £130, Spire.io<br />

IRINA’S<br />

FAVOURITE APPS<br />

NEXTDOOR “A social network for<br />

your neighbourhood. It’s a news<br />

source with a neighbourhood-watch<br />

element, and it’s also a great tool for<br />

planning community gatherings.”<br />

SPEAK & TRANSLATE “This app<br />

is great when I am travelling to<br />

different countries. I can speak in<br />

Russian and it will translate what<br />

I’ve said to any language I want.”<br />

FIT FOR<br />

PURPOSE<br />

Model Irina Shayk reveals her<br />

hi-tech go-tos. Edited by Dena Giannini.<br />

Photograph by Rowan Papier<br />

“This Dyson<br />

360 Eye robot<br />

vacuum is the<br />

most intelligent<br />

and thorough I’ve<br />

seen. It is able to<br />

map out the most<br />

efficient cleaning<br />

path, and takes<br />

itself back to its<br />

base to recharge.”<br />

£800, Dyson.co.uk<br />

PIXELATE.BIZ<br />

110

VOGUE PARTNERSHIP<br />

Boasting more<br />

than 50 castles of<br />

varying sizes,<br />

Luxembourg is<br />

often referred to as<br />

a fairytale<br />

destination<br />

Luxembourg<br />

uncovered<br />

One of the smallest and least familiar countries in Europe,<br />

Luxembourg is far from a tourist trap – but with its dynamic culture<br />

and majestic landscapes, it should grace any holiday hit list<br />

ALFONSO SALGUEIRO; CHRISTOPHE VAN<br />

BIESEN; PULSA PICTURES<br />

The city<br />

provides the<br />

warmest of<br />

welcomes<br />

– and a<br />

fair few<br />

surprises –<br />

for its guests<br />

Fairytale castles, dramatic<br />

scenery, buzzing shopping<br />

districts, delicious cuisine,<br />

fascinating architecture, rich<br />

history and cosmopolitan culture. Really,<br />

what more could you wish for on a<br />

European holiday? While its neighbours<br />

might be better known to tourists,<br />

Luxembourg has just as much to offer,<br />

whether you’re looking for a city break<br />

or a countryside escape.<br />

For the former, Luxembourg City –<br />

with its thousand-year-old former<br />

fortress and Unesco World Heritage old<br />

town, as well as a diverse wealth of<br />

contemporary cultural institutions – is<br />

a must-visit. From the galleries and<br />

museums in the newer Kirchberg<br />

quarter to the local and international<br />

theatre scene, not to mention the<br />

sought-after shops on Grand-Rue and<br />

Rue Philippe II, and fine dining in<br />

abundance (there are no fewer than 11<br />

Michelin-starred restaurants in or close<br />

to the capital), the city provides the<br />

warmest of welcomes – and a fair few<br />

surprises – for its guests.<br />

For those in search of the great<br />

outdoors, the opportunities for hiking<br />

and cycling are as unparalleled as the<br />

panoramas are breathtaking. With a<br />

varied array of landscapes – the dense<br />

forests of the Eislek region, the vineyards<br />

of the Moselle region (where it would<br />

be rude not to try the local produce),<br />

the majestic rock formations and gorges<br />

of the Mullerthal region – punctuated<br />

with rivers, waterfalls and the castles<br />

that the country is celebrated for,<br />

Luxembourg’s rare and unspoilt beauty<br />

offers many a sight to behold.<br />

So for our next European exploration?<br />

Destination now known. Q<br />

Visitluxembourg.com

THE TOP 100<br />

INTERIOR DESIGNERS<br />

June <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong><br />

‘House & Garden Top 100 Interior Designers’, published in<br />

the June <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong> issue, reveals the most innovative, influential<br />

and inspiring designers working in the industry today.<br />

The directory is an authoritative resource for interiors<br />

enthusiasts and insiders alike, meticulously hand-picked by<br />

the editors of House & Garden.<br />

Don’t miss the June issue<br />

On sale now

ARCHIVE<br />

Oh, what a lovely war<br />

Robin Muir looks back at Helen Dryden’s illustrated take<br />

on wartime elegance, <strong>Vogue</strong> June 1918<br />

<strong>British</strong> <strong>Vogue</strong> was born in 1916, two years<br />

into the greatest conflict of modern times.<br />

When the illustrator Helen Dryden<br />

imagined this cover, the Great War had<br />

dragged on for two more years. Both sides seemed<br />

mired in an unbreakable deadlock; no one expected<br />

it to end soon.<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> tended to keep the war at arm’s length,<br />

honouring it with respectful allusion rather than<br />

direct reference. And this is one of those moments.<br />

Dryden’s two elegant Parisians pause to look<br />

towards the drone of an Allied aeroplane. A<br />

triumphal arch adds a note of optimism, but<br />

sketchily drawn like the plane, it barely registers<br />

at all. The focus, as ever for Dryden and for <strong>Vogue</strong>,<br />

was the clothes, here beautifully decorative and<br />

textured in an earthy palette. The colours – orange,<br />

purple and green – were those of the Ballets Russes,<br />

the modernity of which had startled audiences and<br />

defined the rhythm of the age. Dryden cited Léon<br />

Bakst, the ballet’s chief designer and costumier, as<br />

her greatest influence.<br />

Born in Baltimore in 1882, Dryden was one of<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong>’s most important illustrators in the golden<br />

age of fashion drawing. Female artists were not a<br />

novelty but few set the tone for <strong>Vogue</strong> quite like<br />

Dryden. Her mixture of styles – part Beardsley,<br />

part art nouveau, part early art deco – gave <strong>Vogue</strong><br />

some of its most memorable covers, vibrant and<br />

idiosyncratic, perfect for a new modern age. Q<br />

113

COLOURING<br />

BOOK<br />

by Iain R Webb<br />

ON SALE NOW<br />

£10 ISBN 978-18409174<strong>06</strong>

CHECKLIST<br />

STAYCATION<br />

STYLE<br />

Who needs to holiday abroad?<br />

A stress-free sojourn at home has<br />

so much to offer – and so many<br />

occasions to dress-up for<br />

Ice-cream-coloured dreams<br />

Nothing speaks of the joys of summer<br />

dressing quite like a pastel palette. And<br />

nothing says craftsmanship quite like<br />

Ermanno Scervino’s Faubourg bag.<br />

Happily, the two elements meet in the<br />

house’s latest collection, which sees the<br />

It-bag newly released in delicate sugarspun<br />

hues. Embrace the shades.<br />

Bags, £1,950 each,<br />

Ermanno Scervino<br />

JODY TODD

Vinyl and leather shoes embellished<br />

with crystals, £845, Christian Louboutin<br />

Yellow-diamond and diamond ring,<br />

£50,000, Iris Alexander<br />

Sunglasses,<br />

£233, Silhouette,<br />

at Pretavoir.com<br />

New York, London, Scandinavia…<br />

Two-Michelin-starred New York<br />

restaurant Aquavit – which takes its<br />

name from the Scandinavian spirit<br />

made from starchy plants – is now<br />

in London. Choose from the largest<br />

selection of the drink in Britain, then<br />

allow your waiter to suggest the<br />

best dish to accompany it.<br />

Shoes, £225,<br />

Russell &<br />

Bromley<br />

Flash Hydro-Boost<br />

Instant Plumping<br />

Emulsion, £34, Ren<br />

Pure Rosemary Extract shots, £24.95,<br />

No 1 Rosemary Water, at Harrods

A weekend in the country…<br />

Party time in <strong>Vogue</strong> 1998 (left); anyone<br />

for tennis? The cover of the magazine’s<br />

June 1920 issue (below); and relaxing<br />

poolside (below right), <strong>Vogue</strong> 1962.<br />

Rose-gold,<br />

diamond and opal<br />

pendant, £1,250,<br />

Le Vian, at<br />

Ernestjones.co.uk<br />

CHECKLIST<br />

Scarf, £195,<br />

Amanda Wakeley<br />

Interior inspiration<br />

Soho Home – the<br />

interiors brand from<br />

Soho House – has just<br />

launched the Ned<br />

collection. Prices<br />

start from £11.<br />

De-Puff Eye<br />

Treatment, £52,<br />

Dr Sebagh<br />

HENRY CLARKE; HELEN DRYDEN; ARTHUR ELGORT; MALCOLM MENZIE<br />

Frock coat, £599,<br />

Weekend Max Mara<br />

& Fenwick,<br />

at Fenwick<br />

Hideaway<br />

Sofitel’s Queens<br />

Hotel Cheltenham<br />

offers the ultimate<br />

Cotswold retreat.<br />

Pendant<br />

earrings,<br />

£12.99,<br />

Mango<br />

North End Margarita<br />

by Patrón<br />

Tomato and thyme come<br />

together in a deliciously savoury<br />

summer-inspired margarita.<br />

2oz Patrón Reposado<br />

½oz Patrón Citrónge Orange<br />

½oz lemon juice<br />

¼oz agave syrup<br />

Serve with a cherry tomato and<br />

small sprig of thyme, and a lemon<br />

zest, pepper and citrus salt rim<br />

Leather jacket, £495,<br />

Michael Michael Kors<br />

Happy Sport watch,<br />

£21,200, Chopard

BEAUTY<br />

KARLY LOYCE WEARS BLOUSE, CHARVET. EARRINGS, CELINE. RING, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS.<br />

HAIR: CYNDIA HARVEY. MAKE-UP: LUCIA PICA FOR CHANEL. NAILS: KERI UYS. PRODUCTION:<br />

BELLHOUSE MARKES AND STEEL PRODUCTIONS. DIGITAL ARTWORK: IDEA DIGITAL IMAGING<br />

ABOUT FACE<br />

Breathe a sense of optimism into<br />

your make-up repertoire, says<br />

Jessica Diner. Photography and<br />

styling by Venetia Scott

ARTS & ANTIQUES<br />

GUIDE <strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong><br />

A seriously joyous exploration of creativity from<br />

prehistory to the Postmodern<br />

ON SALE NOW<br />

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRANÇOIS HALARD

BEAUTY<br />

3<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

8<br />

10<br />

7<br />

9<br />

11<br />

PIXELATE.BIZ<br />

Pay attention. Technicolour make-up is having its<br />

moment. From Adwoa Aboah gracing the cover of<br />

this magazine’s December issue with aquamarine<br />

eyes and slick patent red lips, to the plethora of<br />

rainbow-colour eyeshadows and liners on the catwalk<br />

(Valentino, Marni, Missoni et al), the rulebook has gone out<br />

of the window. Smoky eye colours are no longer limited to<br />

classic black or bronze. Now, we’re talking about green, yellow,<br />

blue and red – all singing from the eye sockets, fizzing with<br />

positivity and personality. Pairing bright eyeshadow with<br />

statement lips? Even better. That old adage of enhancing just<br />

one feature of the face simply doesn’t exist any more.<br />

“Wearing bold make-up is like wearing an accessory,” says<br />

Lucia Pica, global creative make-up and colour designer for<br />

Chanel. “It’s about bringing excitement to your mood and<br />

making yourself feel brave, happy and confident. As women,<br />

we have so many moments and personalities, so we don’t need<br />

to have just one look. Why shouldn’t we change our make-up<br />

to suit how we feel and have fun?” Quite right, at a time when<br />

the world feels overwhelmingly serious, scary even. What harm<br />

to bring about a bit of optimism via the contents of your<br />

make-up bag? “Bold colour is everywhere,” agrees make-up<br />

artist Mary Greenwell. “It doesn’t need to be a big deal: if you<br />

12<br />

would wear a shocking-pink coat, why wouldn’t you wear<br />

a shocking-pink lip?” You don’t have to go from 0 to 100 in a<br />

nanosecond though. Work your way up the colour spectrum<br />

little by little, deciding what feels comfortable. Where the eyes<br />

are concerned, try a flash of blue or pink eyeliner before going<br />

for the whole socket wash. Or when it comes to lips, start off<br />

with a gel-textured tint to give that hit of colour without too<br />

much pigment commitment. In the same way you might try<br />

on an outfit at home and wear it around the house to make<br />

sure you like it, so too with make-up. “Just try it out for a bit<br />

and push yourself,” encourages Pica. Experiment in safety,<br />

then rock it with confidence. “Be brave and see your face as a<br />

wonderful garden of joy and colour,” concludes Greenwell.<br />

A beautiful call to action if ever there was one. Q<br />

1 Giorgio Armani Eye<br />

Tint Liquid Eyeshadow<br />

in Emeraude, £30. 2 Stila<br />

Shimmer & Glow Liquid<br />

Eye Shadow in Freedom,<br />

£23. 3 Givenchy Prisme<br />

Libre Loose Powder in<br />

Mousseline Pastel, £38.50.<br />

4 Dior Diorshow On Stage<br />

Waterproof Liquid<br />

Eyeliner in Matte Pop<br />

Blue, £26. 5 By Terry<br />

Game Lighter Palette in<br />

Fun’tasia, £38. 6 Guerlain<br />

Terracotta Kiss Delight Lip<br />

Gloss in Grenadine Syrup,<br />

£24. 7 Clarins Water Lip<br />

Stain in Red Water, £19.<br />

8 Laura Mercier Velour<br />

Extreme Matte Lipstick in<br />

Clique, £22. 9 Charlotte<br />

Tilbury Eyes to Mesmerise<br />

Long-Lasting Cream<br />

Eyeshadow in Cleopatra,<br />

£22. 10 Smashbox<br />

Eyeshadow Trio<br />

in On Location, £20.<br />

11 Chanel Rouge Coco Lip<br />

Blush in Orange Explosif,<br />

£28. 12 Chanel Les 9<br />

Ombres Edition No 1<br />

in Affresco, £67<br />

121

VOGUE PARTNERSHIP<br />

LOOK<br />

SMART<br />

Discover the latest in<br />

intelligent, results-driven<br />

beauty with Philips<br />

Beauty Smarts<br />

Introducing Philips Beauty Smarts<br />

in partnership with <strong>Vogue</strong>, which<br />

celebrates a revolutionary, nononsense<br />

approach to beauty that<br />

will not only simplify your regime but<br />

also amplify the results. Whether you’re<br />

confused by the often overwhelming<br />

world of wellness or struggle to squeeze<br />

in your summer beauty prep<br />

between work and the school run, the<br />

experts at Philips fully understand the<br />

importance of feeling your best, and can<br />

be trusted upon to provide beauty<br />

innovations that are guaranteed to<br />

enhance your overall wellbeing.<br />

For a smarter solution to skincare,<br />

we’d like to present to you VisaPure<br />

Advanced; a pioneering three-in-one<br />

device, it combines the luxury of a spa<br />

facial with impressive, proven results<br />

(and the chic rose-gold design makes<br />

for an enviable shelfie). It offers a triple<br />

whammy of cleansing, massage and<br />

refreshing eye care, in an innovative<br />

device that is 10 times more effective<br />

than simply cleansing by hand. The<br />

dedicated massage attachments also<br />

encourage lymphatic drainage for a<br />

naturally radiant complexion.<br />

Philips’s in-depth understanding of<br />

skin doesn’t stop there. The Lumea<br />

Prestige – a cutting-edge, intense pulsed<br />

light (IPL), at-home hair-removal device<br />

– is tailored to provide effective, fussfree<br />

treatment of all parts of the body.<br />

Boasting a SmartSensor that measures<br />

your skin tone and advises the correct<br />

energy setting, it means you can prep legs<br />

for a smooth summer in complete safety.<br />

As well as enhancing the results of<br />

any beauty regime, busy mothers can<br />

rely upon Philips for the time-saving<br />

marvels that they are. Such as the<br />

Moisture Protect hairdryer with its<br />

sensor technology that scans your hair<br />

using infrared to diagnose each strand<br />

and then adapts the temperature of<br />

the air automatically to preserve<br />

hydration for silky soft, frizz-free hair<br />

in a flash. It’s safe to say, the future of<br />

beauty is looking smart. Q<br />

See <strong>Vogue</strong>.co.uk for the “Beauty Smarts”<br />

video series and find out more about the<br />

new ways to improve your wellness regime<br />

as well as discover the timesaving<br />

innovations perfect for busy mums<br />

It combines<br />

the luxury of a<br />

spa facial with<br />

impressive,<br />

proven results<br />

for a naturally<br />

radiant<br />

complexion<br />

Above, from left: Lumea Prestige IPL hair<br />

removal device, from £475, Philips, at<br />

Boots, John Lewis and Amazon.VisaPure<br />

Advanced home facial device, £199, Philips,<br />

at John Lewis. Not shown: Moisture Protect<br />

Hairdryer, £99, Philips and at Amazon<br />

TRUNK ARCHIVE

BEAUTY<br />

TOUCH OF SUN<br />

Bask in the brilliance of summer’s<br />

must have bronzers, says Lottie Winter.<br />

Photograph by Coppi Barbieri<br />

DIGITAL ARTWORK: TAPESTRY<br />

Clockwise from<br />

top left: Dior Diorskin<br />

Healthy Glow Nude Mineral<br />

Bronze, £34. Chanel Les Beiges<br />

Healthy Glow Luminous<br />

Multi-Colour, £42. Guerlain<br />

Terracotta Light in Light<br />

Warm, £37. Clarins Limited-<br />

Edition Sunkissed Summer<br />

Bronzing Compact, £31<br />

125

WELLNESS<br />

Spiritual<br />

address book<br />

Injecting a little bit of magic into<br />

the everyday can be just the tonic to<br />

soothe the soul, says Jessica Diner.<br />

Illustrations by Shogo Sekine<br />

Acupuncture, aromatherapy,<br />

osteopathy… Therapies that<br />

were once considered a little<br />

bit too alternative have now<br />

become commonplace. With the selfcare<br />

movement booming, and the<br />

pace of life rigorous, there are new<br />

therapies that appeal to our spiritual<br />

wellbeing. They are the kinds of<br />

treatments that can’t really be explained<br />

– but the results are enough to silence<br />

any sceptic. So come with an open mind<br />

and try something that instinctively<br />

appeals. What have you got to lose?<br />

ASTROLOGY<br />

Susan Miller has long been the fashion<br />

and beauty industry’s go-to for<br />

accurate horoscopes. The whole<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong> beauty department is<br />

subscribed to Miller’s scarily<br />

accurate daily and monthly<br />

horoscope newsletters. Our new<br />

indulgence is her app, which has daily<br />

essays and thoughts delivered to your<br />

phone as well as key astrological dates<br />

for the diary. Want to know when<br />

Mercury is in retrograde, or when the<br />

next lunar eclipse is? She’s got you<br />

covered. But the best part of Susan’s<br />

service is her bespoke horoscope, which<br />

she can create in less than two weeks,<br />

focusing on your rising sign (rather than<br />

your classic zodiac sign) to help you<br />

reflect upon yourself at a deeper level.<br />

A starting point for anyone wanting to<br />

dip a toe into wisdom of a higher power.<br />

Astrologyzone.com<br />

CLAIRVOYANCE/<br />

HEALING<br />

Emma-Lucy Knowles is<br />

the “slash” healer of the<br />

alternative-therapy<br />

world. She’s a clairvoyant/<br />

crystal/chakra healer/meditation<br />

teacher/life coach. So if you’re looking<br />

for guidance in life or love, she has<br />

incredible foresight. Or, if you’re just<br />

curious about crystals but are not sure<br />

where to start, she will help you find<br />

your perfect stone. Her work goes<br />

beyond the emotional support, though.<br />

A recent bout of tonsillitis called for<br />

remote healing (she managed to send<br />

me get-well vibes through the ether),<br />

and it worked wonders (yes, really).<br />

Her general bubbly disposition is<br />

infectious, so whether it’s being<br />

in her presence that is healing<br />

or the healing itself that<br />

works, she is complete magic.<br />

Youremmylou.com<br />

CRYSTAL SOUND BATH<br />

Founded by Toni Dicks and Jasmine<br />

Hemsley, Sound Sebastien crystal soundbath<br />

sessions are among the most<br />

relaxing experiences you may ever have<br />

the fortune to try. If you have attempted<br />

to meditate without success, this is for<br />

you. You lie down wrapped in a blanket,<br />

while large bowls of quartz crystal are<br />

“played” to produce a low-level sound<br />

(like running a finger around the rim<br />

of a glass). The sound will lull you into<br />

the deepest, most relaxed, trance-like<br />

state, while the energy emanating<br />

from the bowls vibrates deep within<br />

your soul. Essentially the world’s best<br />

power nap, these sessions are the perfect<br />

foil to a hectic lifestyle. Indulgent, yes.<br />

Effective, most definitely.<br />

Soundsebastien.com<br />

NOETIC RECOVERY<br />

“If you have good thoughts,” wrote<br />

Roald Dahl, “they will shine out of your<br />

face like sunbeams and you will always<br />

look lovely.” It could have been written<br />

for facialist-with-a-difference Marie<br />

Reynolds, who uses Noetic Recovery<br />

therapy combined with products and<br />

massage. Noetics explores the idea of<br />

how the emotional trauma from birth<br />

can affect the physical – Marie works<br />

with your body’s energy fields to clear<br />

blockages and combines<br />

it with a killer<br />

facial so your skin<br />

and body will<br />

positively sing.<br />

Mariereynolds<br />

london.com<br />

NUMEROLOGY<br />

Based on the ancient symbolism of<br />

numbers first used by Pythagoras and<br />

later adopted by Kabbalah, a reading<br />

with Romy Karpes can operate on many<br />

different levels. You can meet in person,<br />

on Skype, or over the phone. Just give<br />

her your date and time of birth as well<br />

as your name, and what follows is as if<br />

she has known you your whole life. Her<br />

reading will delve into your past, look<br />

at where you are now, and guide you<br />

through what lies ahead. She’ll also<br />

give you mantras and personal<br />

affirmations to bring about change<br />

and goodwill; a one-hour session<br />

can be totally life-changing.<br />

Romyj888@gmail.com<br />

126

BEAUTY<br />

128<br />

Above, from top:<br />

Nars Natural<br />

Radiant Longwear<br />

Foundation, £35.<br />

Cover FX Power<br />

Play Foundation,<br />

£38. YSL Touche<br />

Eclat All-in-One<br />

Glow Foundation,<br />

£33.50<br />

BEAUTY MUSINGS<br />

Lauren Murdoch-Smith reveals the newest products,<br />

launches and trends that you need to know.<br />

You heard it here first<br />

BASE APPEAL<br />

Foundations are making a comeback.<br />

Why? They’re smarter, lighter and skin<br />

friendly. Adapting to your skin’s texture<br />

and working with it, rather than sitting<br />

on top of it, you can find clever coverage<br />

and flawless bases in shade choices we’ve<br />

never experienced before. Finally.<br />

Gather strength<br />

Espa’s Strength and Resilience massage<br />

combines yoga stretches with reflexology<br />

and a deep, energising massage that will<br />

help revive tired muscles, boost energy<br />

and support your immune system. So<br />

if you need a quick wellness fix, book<br />

yourself in. From £80, Espaskincare.com<br />

Sun essentials<br />

If thick, sticky sun cream is your idea of<br />

holiday hell, try Vichy’s new Idéal Soleil Solar<br />

Protective Water SPF30 (£19) or Garnier<br />

Ambre Solaire UV Water SPF30 (£9). The<br />

light, water-based spray works like a normal<br />

SPF but in a lighter, refreshing formula.<br />

GLOW WHITE<br />

Stocking up on Crest Whitening Strips when Stateside might just be a thing of the<br />

past, as a plethora of teeth-whitening products launch. Pearl Drops is adding Strong<br />

and White Overnight Serum to its offering: a pen to paint on teeth for targeted<br />

whitening. Spotlight, from dentist sisters Lisa and Vanessa Creaven, includes<br />

Teeth Whitening Strips to remove stains without damaging enamel, and Colgate has<br />

launched Expert Complete, with long-term whitening results. A brighter future awaits.<br />

Pearl Drops Strong<br />

and White Overnight<br />

Serum, £7<br />

Colgate Expert<br />

Complete, £12<br />

Eye spy<br />

Retinol has long<br />

been used to<br />

help smooth<br />

facial lines but<br />

until now it’s never been<br />

formulated to work on<br />

the thinner, delicate<br />

under-eye skin area. Olay<br />

has developed Pro-<br />

Retinol Eye Treatment<br />

(£30), which uses<br />

innovative technology<br />

that is powerful, yet the<br />

Pro-Retinol ingredient<br />

is gentle enough to use<br />

under your eyes. The<br />

claim? Smoother deep<br />

wrinkles in four weeks.<br />

Eye-wateringly attractive.<br />

Also try Alpha-H’s new<br />

Liquid Gold Eye Wand<br />

(£52) and Medik8<br />

Retinol Eye TR (£43).<br />

Spotlight Teeth<br />

Whitening Strips<br />

Kit, £40<br />

DAVID BAILEY; PAUL BOWDEN; PIXELATE.BIZ

THE<br />

INTELLIGENCE<br />

SQUARED<br />

PODCAST<br />

TAKING YOU TO THE HEART OF THE ISSUES THAT<br />

MATTER, WITH SOME OF THE MOST BRILLIANT<br />

MINDS IN POLITICS, SCIENCE AND THE ARTS.<br />

Guests include Jimmy Carter, Patti Smith, Michael Lewis, Malala Yousafzai,<br />

Stephen Fry, Yuval Noah Harari, Desmond Tutu, Sam Harris, Q-Tip,<br />

Sheryl Sandberg, Brian Cox and Marina Abramović.<br />

Tune in and join the debate:<br />

www.intelligencesquared.com/podcast<br />

Media Partner

DIRECTOR’S CUT<br />

1<br />

3<br />

4<br />

2<br />

5 6<br />

BRANDON MAXWELL<br />

BROCK COLLECTION<br />

1 Mac Cosmetics<br />

Satin Lipstick in<br />

Shrimpton, £17.50.<br />

2 Nars Orgasm<br />

Afterglow Lip<br />

Balm, £22, at<br />

Feelunique.com.<br />

3 Herbivore Pink<br />

Cloud Rosewater<br />

Moisture Crème,<br />

£42. 4 Giorgio<br />

Armani Face Fabric<br />

Foundation, £38.<br />

5 Becca Shimmering<br />

Skin Perfector<br />

Liquid Highlighter in<br />

Opal, £34. 6 Glossier<br />

Lidstar in Slip, £15.<br />

7 Becca Gradient<br />

Sunlit Bronzer in<br />

Sunset Waves, £27.<br />

8 Hourglass Illume<br />

Sheer Color Trio<br />

in Sunset, £54<br />

By popular<br />

demand<br />

When it comes to beauty<br />

products, the power of the<br />

people decides everything,<br />

says Jessica Diner<br />

As a beauty director, certain<br />

themes recur in conversation<br />

with friends. What’s the best<br />

anti-ageing cream? (Sisley’s<br />

Supremÿa.) How young is too young<br />

for Botox? (Pre-30 is unnecessary in my<br />

view.) What’s my favourite mascara?<br />

(Benefit Roller Lash.) But more than that,<br />

they like to discuss much-loved products<br />

being discontinued: Guerlain Terracotta<br />

Sunless Fake Tan, Kérastase Double J hair<br />

wax, Shu Uemura’s make-up and skincare<br />

leaving Britain… It’s as if, in telling me,<br />

they hope that I might be able to bring<br />

these products back into existence. My<br />

tactic is to lend a sympathetic ear, suggest<br />

alternatives and direct them to buy all<br />

stock left on the internet.<br />

I, too, have a few personal favourites<br />

that are no more: Prada Beauty’s Tinted<br />

Moisturiser; La Mer’s<br />

Radiant Concealer; The<br />

Estée Edit’s Blush in Coy<br />

Coral… I mourn, I try new<br />

products, I move on… With<br />

limited editions, you know<br />

what you’re getting into (if<br />

you like it, you have to<br />

stockpile), but when things<br />

are discontinued there is little<br />

you can do. Or is there?<br />

Estée Lauder has a “Gone But Not<br />

Forgotten” programme that will try to<br />

find your product within 24 months of<br />

it going off shelves. But thanks to social<br />

media we now have the means to talk<br />

to brands directly to tell them of our<br />

despair. And they are listening. Mac has<br />

an entire collection entitled Throwback<br />

based on products that were no more<br />

and have come back due to customer<br />

demand. “It goes somewhere to<br />

satisfying the constant requests from<br />

beauty addicts to relaunch iconic<br />

colours,” says Terry Barber, Mac’s<br />

director of make-up artistry. “Most<br />

people have a story about their first Mac<br />

product and what it meant to them.<br />

Revisiting these colours is like seeing<br />

old friends again with the bonus that<br />

they’ve not dated in the slightest.”<br />

When Becca Cosmetics reduced its<br />

distribution in Britain in 2<strong>01</strong>5, the diehards<br />

still knew where to get it (Space<br />

NK and Cult Beauty) but it’s coming<br />

back with a bang this month. It will be<br />

on sale at John Lewis, with Glow Bars<br />

launching later in select locations to<br />

prescribe how to get the signature glow.<br />

Hourglass’s Illume Sheer Duo was<br />

originally limited edition, and after a<br />

social campaign to bring it back, it now<br />

FENTY<br />

8<br />

exists as a trio as part of the core<br />

collection. Then there’s Giorgio<br />

Armani’s Face Fabric, the blurring<br />

tinted moisturiser that was discontinued<br />

in 2<strong>01</strong>6 – until an Instagram post from<br />

Khloé Kardashian declaring her upset<br />

caused a furore on the internet, meaning<br />

that it has now returned to our lives.<br />

We are using our collective voices to<br />

bring covetable American brands over<br />

to our shores too. Glossier was inundated<br />

with requests to launch its brand here,<br />

which it did to sell-out style success<br />

(and the hype continues). Herbivore<br />

Botanicals, the social-savvy wellness<br />

skincare brand, has just launched and<br />

Drunk Elephant, one of my favourite<br />

skincare ranges, is rumoured to be<br />

planning a <strong>British</strong> launch for later in<br />

the year, such has been the demand.<br />

Now, Prada, please can we discuss<br />

your beauty comeback? Q<br />

7<br />

JAMES COCHRANE; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; PIXELATE.BIZ<br />

130

From left: Azizzi Romeo<br />

wears string vests, from<br />

£3 each, Amazon Fashion.<br />

Cotton trousers, £625,<br />

Loewe. Fran Summers<br />

wears striped sweater,<br />

£330. Matching trousers,<br />

£415. Both Marques Almeida,<br />

at Net-a-Porter.com<br />

STYLING: KATE PHELAN. HAIR: CHRISTIAAN HOUTENBOS. MAKE-UP: SAM BRYANT<br />

FOLLOW<br />

THE SUN…<br />

… ALL THE WAY TO JAMAICA FOR A WILD ISLAND ODYSSEY (AND AN AUDIENCE WITH THE STILL<br />

FABULOUS GRACE JONES). FOLLOW YOUR HEART: BEYOND A LOVE STORY, WE ANALYSE THE REAL-LIFE<br />

IMPACT OF ROYAL BRIDE MEGHAN MARKLE ON FASHION AND CULTURE, WHILE CARA DELEVINGNE<br />

WEARS FANTASY WEDDING DRESSES AND TALKS THROUGH THE LANDMARK MOMENTS IN HER<br />

LIFE. FOLLOW YOUR DESTINY: VOGUE ANOINTS A NEW FASHION STAR, AS THE WINNER OF THE<br />

BFC/VOGUE FASHION FUND IS ANNOUNCED. FOLLOW THE LEADERS: BRITAIN’S FOREMOST ARTISTS<br />

INTRODUCE A NEW ERA AT THE ROYAL ACADEMY, AND CHANEL’S VERY OWN SUN KING,<br />

KARL LAGERFELD, LETS US INTO HIS RAREFIED WORLD. BASK IN IT. PHOTOGRAPH BY TIM WALKER

LOVE STORIES – ROYAL OR OTHERWISE –<br />

MAY BE AS OLD AS MAN AND WOMANKIND,<br />

BUT BRIDALWEAR HAS NEVER LOOKED THIS FRESH OR FANTASTICAL.<br />

CARA DELEVINGNE<br />

BECOMES VOGUE’S FAIRYTALE BRIDE,<br />

AND SHARES HER OWN HAPPY-EVER-AFTER MILESTONES…<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVEN MEISEL.<br />

STYLING BY JOE McKENNA<br />

CAGE HELMET, FROM £200, TO ORDER, HEATHER HUEY. LATEX CAP, £95,<br />

ATSUKO KUDO. HAIR: GUIDO PALAU. MAKE-UP: PAT McGRATH.<br />

NAILS: MICHINA KOIDE. PRODUCTION: PRODN AT ART & COMMERCE

THE BOLDEST BRIDES<br />

ARRIVE DRAMATICALLY<br />

CROWNED – WITH SIMPLE<br />

FOLDS OR FROTHY<br />

CONFECTIONS.<br />

THIS PAGE: BONDED<br />

COTTON-CANVAS AND<br />

LINEN COAT, £4,190,<br />

CELINE. HAT WITH VEIL,<br />

TO ORDER, VIKTOR & ROLF<br />

MARIAGE. LEATHER<br />

SHOES, £500, JIL SANDER.<br />

OPPOSITE: IRIDESCENT<br />

TOILE DRESS EMBROIDERED<br />

WITH CRYSTALS, TO<br />

ORDER, CHANEL. HAT,<br />

FROM A SELECTION,<br />

NEW YORK VINTAGE

BEAUTIFULLY TAILORED<br />

OR THRILLINGLY<br />

FLIRTY, AT THE HANDS<br />

OF A DEFT DESIGNER,<br />

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE.<br />

THIS PAGE: SILK CAPE,<br />

£2,691. STRAPLESS<br />

TECHNICAL-CANVAS<br />

DRESS, £1,<strong>01</strong>1. BOTH RICK<br />

OWENS. ORGANDIE HAT,<br />

£425, MISA HARADA.<br />

SHOES, AS BEFORE.<br />

OPPOSITE: LATEX CAPE,<br />

£270, ATSUKO KUDO.<br />

HYDRANGEA BONNET,<br />

FROM £625, FAETH<br />

MILLINERY. HEADBAND<br />

WITH FELT APPLIQUES<br />

AND FEATHER SPRAY, FROM<br />

£240, ELLEN CHRISTINE<br />

COUTURE. VEIL WITH LACE<br />

APPLIQUE, FROM £235,<br />

GENEVIEVE ROSE BRIDAL

HONOUR THE<br />

WHITE-DRESS CODE IN<br />

CLOUDS OF HEAVENLY<br />

BUTTER-SOFT LEATHER.<br />

STRAPLESS MINIDRESS,<br />

£8,570, SAINT LAURENT<br />

BY ANTHONY<br />

VACCARELLO. COTTON<br />

HANDKERCHIEF,<br />

WORN AS HEADSCARF,<br />

£42, CHARVET

THE PERFECT<br />

MARRIAGE: AN ORGANZA<br />

HOOD-MADE-VEIL<br />

COQUETTISHLY HINTS<br />

AT THE FASHION<br />

PAIRING BENEATH.<br />

OPPOSITE: ORGANZA<br />

HOOD, WORN AS VEIL,<br />

FROM £90, TO ORDER,<br />

HEATHER HUEY.<br />

ORGANDIE HAT, £425,<br />

MISA HARADA. RESIN<br />

EAR CLIPS, FROM £3,610,<br />

JAR, AT FD GALLERY<br />

“The most<br />

important thing<br />

to remember<br />

is not to lose<br />

trust in people<br />

or your faith<br />

in love”<br />

Lose your virginity; finish school with good grades;<br />

fit in; fall in love; get married; have a child...<br />

Whenever I’ve thought about life’s milestones, I’ve<br />

always been conflicted about what are the “right”<br />

ones and what I actually want for myself. As a child and a<br />

teenager, all I wanted was to make people happy, but it took<br />

me so long to figure out what made me happy. The thing<br />

about landmark events is that they should be – and are –<br />

different for every person. They are special and unique to<br />

each of us. These are my milestones; times in my life and<br />

lessons I’ve learnt that have made me who I am.<br />

My first taste of freedom…<br />

After seven years of being at school and having a schedule,<br />

being spontaneous was a revelation. Travelling around the<br />

world and meeting new people of all ages really inspired me.<br />

I still haven’t had time to get my driving licence though.<br />

Not always needing the last word…<br />

As teenagers, we’re filled with so many emotions, it’s hard<br />

not to react to things without thinking – and then regretting<br />

it later. It’s important to take a step back and assess the<br />

situation before you react. Everyone has an opinion, and even<br />

if you don’t agree doesn’t mean you shouldn’t listen.<br />

Finding strength in my body…<br />

I was 16 when I first got my period, so I started very late. I<br />

thought something was wrong with me. We’re taught to<br />

think that having your period is shameful or something to<br />

be mourned, but in reality, it marks a woman entering her<br />

power, which is huge and something that should be celebrated<br />

– not hidden. Maybe, in the future, that will change as more<br />

women are empowered and revered – not feared.<br />

…and then reclaiming it…<br />

Let’s be clear: I am not promoting tattoos. For me, getting<br />

my first tattoo – a lion on my finger, which I got in New<br />

York when I was 20 – was about taking ownership of my<br />

body, which I did not feel was mine. This can be done in<br />

many different ways, but it’s important to push yourself and<br />

get outside your comfort zone.<br />

The realisation that nothing is set in stone…<br />

I feel like so many of us say “I am bad at something” or “I don’t<br />

enjoy something”. What that really means is that we haven’t<br />

had the confidence to do something, or spent time trying to<br />

do it. I used to be bad at expressing emotion or saying how<br />

I felt, because I was so used to holding it all in. That is<br />

something I’m getting better at. It’s what I have to do every<br />

day on set when I am acting. Life is all about improving.<br />

Having my heart broken for the first time…<br />

When it happened, I learned that I needed time to heal<br />

properly before jumping into another relationship. If you<br />

don’t, you end up taking all the baggage from your previous<br />

relationship with you. When you open yourself up to love,<br />

there is always a chance you will get hurt or end up hurting<br />

someone else. But the most important thing to remember<br />

is not to lose trust in people or your faith in love. Learn<br />

that you make sacrifices for your loved ones, but also<br />

understand when you have to put yourself first. Being selfish<br />

isn’t always a bad thing.<br />

Knowing that you are never alone…<br />

It has taken me a while to actually learn how to ask for help<br />

or support from the people I love. Perhaps it’s a fear of<br />

being rejected – it’s easy to forget that we have all been<br />

through stuff and there is someone out there who knows<br />

what it feels like.<br />

Discovering that there’s no such thing as perfection…<br />

The cracks and flaws are the things that people try and hide<br />

away. But those are the things that make us who we are.<br />

Finally getting to know myself…<br />

When I first realised that gender is so much more fluid<br />

than “masculine” or “feminine”, it was a breakthrough<br />

moment for me. Here’s a secret for you. You know those<br />

fairy tales and romantic comedies we are brought up<br />

watching? They’re not real. Q

IT’S A BRIDE’S<br />

PREROGATIVE TO TURN<br />

TRADITION ON ITS HEAD –<br />

A MODERN-DAY BONNET<br />

OR HAND-SHEARED VEIL<br />

SHOULD DO THE TRICK.<br />

THIS PAGE: SILK AND LACE<br />

DRESS, £2,750, CELINE.<br />

HYDRANGEA BONNET, FROM<br />

£625, FAETH MILLINERY.<br />

SHOES, AS BEFORE.<br />

OPPOSITE: STRAPLESS<br />

TECHNICAL-CANVAS DRESS,<br />

£1,<strong>01</strong>1, RICK OWENS. HAT<br />

WITH VEIL, TO ORDER,<br />

VIKTOR & ROLF MARIAGE

TIE THE KNOT IN<br />

CHANEL’S THOROUGHLY<br />

MODERN TROUSER SUIT,<br />

OR JIL SANDER SILK.<br />

OPPOSITE: COTTON-<br />

PIQUE WAISTCOAT WITH<br />

BOW TIE, TO ORDER,<br />

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE.<br />

HAT WITH VEIL, TO ORDER,<br />

VIKTOR & ROLF MARIAGE.<br />

THIS PAGE: SILK DRESS,<br />

£2,640. LEATHER SHOES,<br />

£500. BOTH JIL SANDER.<br />

TOYO-STRAW HAT,<br />

FROM £115, TO ORDER,<br />

HEATHER HUEY.<br />

VEIL, STYLIST’S OWN.<br />

SMOKY QUARTZ AND<br />

PEARL RING, FROM £21,650,<br />

SUZANNE BELPERRON,<br />

AT FD GALLERY.<br />

FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,<br />

SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

THE<br />

MEANING<br />

OF<br />

MEGHAN<br />

THE MEGHAN MARKLE FAIRY TALE INVOLVES A<br />

HUMBLE BACKGROUND, A HANDSOME PRINCE<br />

AND A WARDROBE SO RELATABLE IT COULD ADD<br />

£1 BILLION TO THE BRITISH FASHION ECONOMY.<br />

CLAUDIA CROFT REPORTS ON THE WOMAN<br />

WHO’S DRESSED HER WAY INTO OUR HEARTS,<br />

THEN AFUA HIRSCH DISCUSSES HER CULTURAL<br />

SIGNIFICANCE. ARTWORK BY PETER BLAKE<br />

It was a bright December morning in Edinburgh and Leeanne Hundleby was<br />

enjoying a day off from Strathberry, the small Scottish bag brand she runs with<br />

her husband, Guy. Then the phone rang. “You’d better come in,” said Guy, calling<br />

from the office. “We think Meghan’s wearing one of our bags.” The style in<br />

question was their £495 midi-tote tricolour in green, and Meghan was, of course,<br />

the newly engaged royal-to-be out on her first public engagement with Prince Harry.<br />

What followed was a fashion frenzy. The brand, which sells direct to customers<br />

on its website, experienced a 5,000 per cent sales bump. Eleven minutes after Markle<br />

stepped out with the bag, it had sold out. “It was the craziest day we’ve ever had,”<br />

says Hundleby. Each time stocks were replenished, the bags were snapped up, often<br />

shipping to territories such as Japan and Germany where the brand had made little<br />

impact before. “People bought all the colourways and then moved on to the smaller<br />

size. By Christmas we had virtually nothing to offer. Everything was sold out.”<br />

World, meet Meghan Markle: the oxytocin of fashion. She has dressed her way<br />

into our hearts with a wardrobe so feelgood and infused with realness that resistance<br />

is futile. On the day her engagement to Prince Harry was publicly announced, Megan<br />

stood in the sunken garden at Kensington Palace, petite, despite her nude Aquazzura<br />

heels, the wide belt on her white coat accentuating her tiny waist as she flashed her<br />

dazzling engagement ring and uttered the words, “So happy!” to the world’s press.<br />

Indeed, it was a joyous moment. Not only did she seem intent on rewriting the<br />

princess dress code (what, no tights?), but the way she presented herself chimed with<br />

modern womanhood. From the self-assured sway of her hips as she strode out to<br />

have her picture taken, to her blowdry, which was as buoyant as the mood of the<br />

nation that day, it was clear that the actress and women’s rights activist was bringing<br />

something 21st century to the role of royal bride. ><br />

148

“She is strong,<br />

assertive,<br />

intelligent and<br />

compassionate.<br />

I love her<br />

personality and<br />

her openness.<br />

I love the fact<br />

she can wear<br />

her favourite<br />

dress many<br />

times…”<br />

“She’s a woman of the times,” says her<br />

friend the designer Roland Mouret, who<br />

Markle has relied upon for sleek cocktail<br />

looks and lean tailoring. Not just an<br />

actress, he says, “she’s a business woman,<br />

and she’s very straightforward”. Antonio<br />

Berardi is impressed too, recalling<br />

the day she visited his studio in the<br />

January of 2<strong>01</strong>7, 10 months before her<br />

engagement announcement. “She was<br />

incredibly respectful, kind and human.<br />

Afterwards she sent me a handwritten<br />

note thanking me for making her a cup<br />

of tea.” During the appointment, Markle<br />

zeroed in on a blue sleeveless midi-dress,<br />

which she wore a few weeks later to<br />

watch Prince Harry play polo. “She asked<br />

if she could try it on with a pair of shoes<br />

but we only had thigh boots,” recalls the<br />

designer. The boots amused the future<br />

royal no end. “She said, ‘As much as I<br />

love them, people would ask why I was<br />

wearing those boots. I couldn’t.’”<br />

Markle may telegraph a sense of ease<br />

and effortlessness, but as an emerging<br />

fashion star she has become keenly aware<br />

of the clothes she wears and the message<br />

they send. A few good coats, mid-priced<br />

bags, flattering pencil dresses, Aquazzura<br />

and Manolo spikes (who doesn’t covet<br />

those?), a sell-out “husband” shirt and a<br />

variety of skinny jeans (definitely not<br />

over). It’s a formula that never falters.<br />

In the past months there have been<br />

tantalising flashes of personality as well<br />

– in the way she loads her fingers with<br />

inexpensive gold stacking rings or decides<br />

to wear high street for important<br />

occasions. For example, most people<br />

when faced with the prospect of<br />

Christmas with the Queen would feel<br />

intimidated into panic-buying a Burberry<br />

coat-dress from the designer rail in<br />

Harrods. Instead, Markle spent her first<br />

Yuletide at Sandringham in a favourite<br />

£224 velvet Club Monaco number.<br />

Her most fashion-forward ensemble<br />

to date was a sharp Alexander McQueen<br />

tuxedo, with a bodysuit blouse and<br />

Jimmy Choo heels, which she wore<br />

instead of a conventional gown to an<br />

awards ceremony in February. The result<br />

was pleasingly modern as opposed to<br />

shockingly outré. She has been busy<br />

making powerful international fashion<br />

allies, too. Michael Kors can’t praise her<br />

enough. “I think she knows herself, and<br />

she’s figured out a look or a uniform that<br />

works for her in her new role,” he tells<br />

<strong>Vogue</strong>. “Her style is laid-back with an air<br />

of simple sophistication. She definitely<br />

brings a modern attitude to royal style.<br />

She knows what looks right on her and<br />

what works in different situations, which<br />

is more than half the battle!”<br />

Diane von Furstenberg isn’t in the least<br />

surprised by Markle’s mass appeal. “What<br />

impresses me about Meghan Markle is<br />

her enormous natural confidence,” says<br />

the designer and philanthropist. “She is<br />

strong, assertive, intelligent and<br />

compassionate. I love her personality and<br />

openness. I love the fact she can wear her<br />

favourite dress many times as she feels<br />

great in it… especially when it’s DVF!”<br />

Her ability to cause items to sell out<br />

is repeated with almost any brand she’s<br />

seen in. The Meghan effect works across<br />

all price points. The £45 Marks &<br />

Spencer jumper she wore to visit a<br />

Brixton radio station sold out within<br />

hours, while Net-a-Porter saw a 600 per<br />

cent increase in sales for Jason Wu after<br />

she wore his £1,415 navy dress in<br />

February. Impacting on fashion sales, of<br />

course, is not new to the Royal family.<br />

In 2<strong>01</strong>2, Newsweek estimated that the<br />

Duchess of Cambridge’s ability to move<br />

product was worth £1 billion to the<br />

<strong>British</strong> fashion industry. Yet Meghan<br />

Markle could top that. Brand Finance,<br />

a business valuation and strategy<br />

consultancy, estimates that Markle’s<br />

marriage into royalty will add about £500<br />

million to the UK fashion economy this<br />

year, but could go on to top £1 billion<br />

because of her huge appeal in America.<br />

Is this where her magic lies? It’s safe<br />

to say her breezy North American vibe<br />

– which includes repeat appearances from<br />

Ralph Lauren, J Crew and a slew of<br />

smaller Canadian brands she discovered<br />

when filming her hit TV show Suits in<br />

Montreal – is much more international<br />

than previous royal girlfriends, who have<br />

tended to come from a small, Sloaney<br />

gene pool and the same Chelsea postcode.<br />

Markle’s signature “blend of casual and<br />

polished is very American”, says Kors.<br />

Yet what is so remarkable<br />

about Markle’s style is its<br />

consistency. Not for her the<br />

awkward missteps of Diana,<br />

Princess of Wales, towards a look that<br />

finally worked. Married at 19, Diana did<br />

much of her fashion growing-up in<br />

public – it helps that, at 36, Markle<br />

makes her entrance as a proper grownup,<br />

old enough to know what works and<br />

STYLE EVOLUTION<br />

2007<br />

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confident enough to have developed<br />

her signature look. And she’s had smart<br />

advice too, taking styling tips from her<br />

close friend Jessica Mulroney. The pair<br />

met in 2<strong>01</strong>1, when Markle began filming<br />

on Suits, and they bonded over a love of<br />

yoga. Mulroney also styles Sophie<br />

Trudeau, wife of the Canadian prime<br />

minister Justin Trudeau, and is wellversed<br />

in the art of diplomatic dressing.<br />

In fact, behind the scenes Markle is<br />

making a great deal of effort to get her<br />

royal look right. Since the announcement<br />

of her engagement, the axis of her<br />

wardrobe has pivoted. Coats by Burberry<br />

and Stella McCartney, knits from<br />

Victoria Beckham and Mulberry bags<br />

are all outward signs of her commitment<br />

to her new role at the centre of <strong>British</strong><br />

life. The <strong>British</strong> Fashion Council has<br />

played its part, too. They put Kensington<br />

Palace in touch with the Welsh brand<br />

Hiut Denim. “We got a phone call and<br />

sent some things to the Palace in<br />

January. We didn’t know it was for her,”<br />

says David Hieatt from his Cardigan<br />

studio. When she subsequently wore a<br />

pair of his black Dina jeans underneath<br />

a Stella McCartney coat on a day trip<br />

to Cardiff, within minutes he was<br />

receiving messages from press<br />

organisations around the world. “We’d<br />

spent all our marketing budget on a<br />

coffee machine,” he says, laughing. Now,<br />

“there are six people who have new jobs<br />

because of her wearing our jeans”.<br />

Just by getting dressed, Markle brings<br />

jobs, prosperity, a sense of inclusion and<br />

a bit of joy. “She’s making an interesting<br />

transition from the red-carpet world to<br />

the purple-carpet world,” says Simon<br />

Doonan, the <strong>British</strong> author and creativeambassador-at-large<br />

for Barneys New<br />

York. The two big differences are longer<br />

hemlines (will we ever see her knees<br />

again?) and the necessity of hat wearing.<br />

“She’s never worn hats,” explains<br />

Doonan. “They’re not a big thing in the<br />

White House, and American actresses<br />

are very concerned with their hair.”<br />

So, what will this mean for her<br />

wedding dress? In the run-up to the<br />

wedding, betting has been suspended<br />

after a flurry of wagers settled on<br />

Alexander McQueen. No doubt Sarah<br />

Burton would create a spectacular dress,<br />

but would Markle really invite<br />

comparison by choosing the same<br />

designer as her sister-in-law? Roland<br />

Mouret is in the frame, though Markle<br />

once said her dream wedding gown was<br />

the devastatingly simple bias-cut slip<br />

that Narciso Rodriguez designed for<br />

Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in 1996.<br />

Would that pared-down aesthetic rule<br />

out early front-runner Ralph & Russo?<br />

The Mayfair couturier specialises in<br />

classic princess-style gowns, nipped in<br />

at the waist with grand skirts.<br />

Perhaps the strongest contender is<br />

Montreal-born, London-based Erdem<br />

Moralioglu, who brings together the<br />

<strong>British</strong> and North American aspects<br />

of her wardrobe. Markle has worn his<br />

dresses on several occasions, and since<br />

the engagement, the designer, known<br />

for his romantic sensibility and obsession<br />

with royal dressing, has avoided<br />

answering any wedding-related<br />

questions. Is he being discreet or is a<br />

royal NDA in place? Her going-away<br />

outfit will also be closely watched as she<br />

takes her first steps into royal life.<br />

And what a life it will be. The nuances<br />

of royal dressing are complex. There is<br />

an expectation to always look smart and<br />

appropriate, but royals should never<br />

appear self-indulgent – and beware the<br />

dangers of looking too chic. The Queen’s<br />

couturier Hardy Amies once said of Her<br />

Majesty’s style, “I don’t think she feels<br />

chic clothes are friendly. There’s always<br />

something cold and cruel about chic<br />

clothes, which she wants to avoid.”<br />

So far Markle has managed to steer<br />

clear of the cruel side of chic and with<br />

it any comparisons to another American<br />

divorcee who married into the Royal<br />

family. The Duchess of Windsor was<br />

lauded for her impeccable ensembles,<br />

but never taken to heart by the public.<br />

Markle need not worry about having<br />

the same fate. The January day she<br />

visited Cardiff, the BBC asked the<br />

hundreds of admirers lining the streets<br />

why they liked her so much: “Beautiful”,<br />

“Graceful”, “Flawless”, “Heart of gold”<br />

came the responses. “She seems<br />

normal.” No one even mentioned her<br />

clothes. Perhaps this is Markle’s<br />

greatest triumph of all. Despite a frenzy<br />

of interest in every item she wears, with<br />

a potential £1 billion boon to<br />

the fashion economy resting on her<br />

shoulder pads, Markle’s clothes don’t<br />

distract from her personality: instead<br />

they amplify it. We see the Burberry<br />

coats, Amanda Wakeley dresses and<br />

Stephen Jones hats – but most clearly<br />

of all we see the woman. CC ><br />

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151

AS A BI-RACIAL AMERICAN<br />

AND CAMPAIGNING<br />

FEMINIST, MEGHAN MARKLE<br />

IS NOT ONLY A POWERFUL<br />

SYMBOL FOR BRITAIN<br />

AND THE ROYAL FAMILY,<br />

SHE’S A GAME-CHANGING<br />

ROLE MODEL FOR MILLIONS,<br />

WRITES AFUA HIRSCH<br />

Meghan has<br />

served as a key<br />

to unlocking<br />

things in our<br />

own society that<br />

have remained<br />

hidden in<br />

plain sight<br />

152<br />

In 1862, the <strong>British</strong> newspapers were buzzing with news<br />

of a royal wedding – of sorts – that was unlike any other<br />

that people could remember. The bride was goddaughter<br />

and ward of Queen Victoria – newsworthy in itself. But<br />

the fact that Sarah Forbes Bonetta was a black woman,<br />

elevated the event to something sensational.<br />

It seemed the chattering classes were fascinated not just<br />

by the bride herself, but by the presence of so many black<br />

guests at the church in Brighton where they wed. There<br />

were, one newspaper exclaimed, “white ladies with African<br />

gentlemen, and African ladies with white gentlemen, until<br />

all the space was filled”.<br />

Left: Markle discusses her<br />

role in Suits, March 2<strong>01</strong>6.<br />

Below, from left: with<br />

Kerry Washington in 2<strong>01</strong>3;<br />

celebrating International<br />

Women’s Day on a royal<br />

visit to Birmingham; in<br />

Rwanda with the charity<br />

World Vision, spring 2<strong>01</strong>6.<br />

Right: Markle with her<br />

mother, watching the<br />

closing ceremony of last<br />

year’s Invictus Games<br />

Even today, people remain fascinated. “Will Meghan<br />

Markle’s mother be displaying her dreadlocks in Windsor?”<br />

one commentator asked. What else would she do, I thought?<br />

It’s hard to forget about Meghan’s mother’s hair, because<br />

when news of the royal engagement was first broadcast, the<br />

newspapers kept discussing it. There were also questions<br />

about whether Harry would be popping in for tea in “gangscarred”<br />

Compton – the LA neighbourhood where Meghan<br />

grew up, and the description of Markle’s blood as “exotic”.<br />

Sometimes it almost feels as if it could still be the 1860s,<br />

when the <strong>British</strong> press pulled off a similarly ironic feat of<br />

congratulating itself for being so tolerant as to allow “natives<br />

of a distant continent” at an English wedding, all the while<br />

banging on about “Negroes” this and “civilisation” that –<br />

fairly good evidence that the couple’s race was, most<br />

definitely, an issue.<br />

When Meghan and Harry’s wedding was announced, I was<br />

surprised by the need to explain that she will not be the world’s<br />

first black or brown princess. Apart from England’s own<br />

potential precedents, it had not occurred to me that anyone<br />

needed reminding of the countless kingdoms, empires and<br />

royal families that have existed and survive across the world<br />

in places where people are not white. But in Britain, it seems,<br />

a princess – or a duchess, as Meghan Markle will be – is still<br />

regarded as something intrinsically to do with whiteness.<br />

I have no idea whether she – or anyone – can truly be<br />

prepared for the realities of the institution she is entering.<br />

But Meghan has already done so much for us. She has served<br />

as a key to unlocking things in our own society that have<br />

remained hidden in plain sight. The long history of blackness<br />

in Europe that is now finally becoming mainstream. The<br />

personal experiences of race and identity that other highprofile<br />

people in this country so often shy away from<br />

discussing, but which she has so openly addressed.<br />

“While my mixed heritage may have created a grey area<br />

surrounding my self-identification, keeping me with a foot<br />

on both sides of the fence, I have come to embrace that,”<br />

she has explained. For myself, growing up as a mixed-race<br />

woman in a part of Britain where that placed me firmly in<br />

the minority, Meghan’s tales of the awkwardness growing<br />

up the mixed girl in a white neighbourhood were powerfully<br />

resonant with my own.<br />

I am not alone in relating. Britain has the greatest number<br />

of interracial relationships of any country in western Europe,<br />

and a rapidly growing mixed-race population. As the face of<br />

Britain changes, would it have been sustainable for the Royal<br />

family to remain, as they largely have been in recent years,<br />

an entirely white institution?<br />

We all project ourselves on to the Royal family. In one<br />

sense, that is their role. They are symbols of who we are as<br />

a nation, arbiters of belonging and, for some people, love for<br />

them is a test of patriotism and commitment. At the same<br />

time, they are a blank canvas on to which we, as <strong>British</strong><br />

people, paint our feelings, fantasies, fears and identities.<br />

There is no escaping the significance of this royal wedding,<br />

whether as historic journey into the ritual of <strong>British</strong> pageant<br />

and tradition, joyous statement against <strong>British</strong> isolationism,<br />

declaration of the irrelevance of a divorce – the legacy of<br />

Wallis Simpson redeemed – a radical step towards diversity<br />

and a true reflection of modern romance, or even a simple<br />

party to warm the heart of troubled Brexit Britain. This<br />

royal wedding will be whatever you want it to be, but the<br />

one thing it is is unparalleled. AH Q

November 27 2<strong>01</strong>7:<br />

following the<br />

announcement of<br />

their engagement,<br />

Prince Harry and<br />

Meghan Markle<br />

attended a photocall<br />

at Kensington Palace<br />

GETTY; PA IMAGES<br />

153

Inside Chanel<br />

For Karl Lagerfeld there is no slowing down.<br />

Suzy Menkes meets the fashion<br />

powerhouse as <strong>Vogue</strong> previews Chanel’s<br />

vibrant and enigmatic Métiers d’Art collection.<br />

Photographs by Juergen Teller.<br />

Styling by Poppy Kain<br />

Opposite: iridescent wool-crêpe and sequin dress, to order.<br />

Belt, £1,350. Cap, £2,140. Collar, £680. Fingerless gloves, £1,225. Bag, £13,845.<br />

Two-tone shoes, worn throughout, £770. Jewellery, price on request. All Chanel.<br />

Above: tweed jacket, £9,820. Tweed skirt, £3,610. Sweater, £1,250.<br />

Collar, £620. Cap, £2,140. Bag, £9,040. Jewellery, price on request. All Chanel

“Fashion is about change<br />

– and I like change.<br />

I do it like I breathe”<br />

Karl Lagerfeld<br />

K<br />

arl Lagerfeld’s new beard gives him the look<br />

of a professor – a very well-dressed one – as<br />

he sits in the Chanel studio the day after<br />

his latest haute couture show.<br />

My eyes go straight past the jacket’s<br />

colourfully stitched surface to his necktie,<br />

pinned with his clip from Suzanne Belperron, the 20thcentury<br />

jewellery designer. He makes me look more closely<br />

at the sparkle and I see the tiny face and sapphire-blue eyes<br />

of Choupette, his beloved Birman.<br />

That cat! I had seen Lagerfeld a few weeks earlier,<br />

caressing the fluffy creature that travels with him, on his<br />

return to his native Hamburg for the Chanel Métiers d’Art<br />

show – an annual travelling showcase of the maison’s<br />

craftsmanship. Now the mighty designer is telling me that<br />

his various homes have been redesigned to accommodate<br />

his 100,000 books – and Choupette.<br />

“I love the physical presence of books, and in my bedroom<br />

in Paris I pulled down every wall so it’s like a huge box of<br />

frosted glass,” he explains. “There are no doors, but a huge<br />

studio where I sketch and read and where Choupette lives.<br />

I must say, I’m pretty happy there. Everything is impeccable<br />

and one of Choupette’s two maids takes care of her the<br />

minute I leave, because she doesn’t like to be alone.”<br />

As Karl involuntarily strokes his desk with his gloved<br />

hand, he continues talking about his furry friend. “I never<br />

thought that I would fall in love with a little cat like this.<br />

A look from Karl<br />

Lagerfeld’s first collection<br />

for the house, Chanel<br />

Haute Couture, spring/<br />

summer 1983<br />

But I think it is very funny and I cannot imagine another<br />

life because I don’t want it. I’m envious of nothing.”<br />

Lagerfeld’s book about his pet, Choupette: The Private<br />

Life of a High-Flying Fashion Cat, captures the essence of<br />

his wit and also his knowledge of literature and art, as<br />

I have witnessed in his homes from the books piled on<br />

tables and spilling over on to chairs. I am enchanted by his<br />

suggestions that Choupette’s life resembles Las Meninas,<br />

the Velázquez painting of the Infanta Margarita Teresa<br />

surrounded by servants.<br />

In the four decades during which I have attended his<br />

shows, enjoyed his exceptional cultural reach and his edgy<br />

– even wicked – wit, I have never known Lagerfeld to be<br />

at his desk in the morning. This must be his culture time:<br />

sitting at home reading, impeccably dressed in the latest<br />

Dior Homme suit. He remained faithful to the style, even<br />

after his favoured designer Hedi Slimane left the brand.<br />

Now Hedi has been chosen as the new artistic director of<br />

Céline, and Karl is literally licking his lips about his return.<br />

“Hedi is a professional killer,” he announces with relish.<br />

Hedi has been one of the most widely mentioned names in<br />

the endless gossip about Karl’s predicted departure.<br />

“Don’t mention the succession; don’t talk about retirement,”<br />

I say to myself as I walk to the Chanel entrance on Rue<br />

Cambon in Paris and take the small elevator to the fourth<br />

floor. In the studio, the designer pours us each a glass of golden<br />

Château d’Yquem, while we reminisce about going to the<br />

famous Bordeaux vineyards for the 2005 wedding of Delphine,<br />

the daughter of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault, when Karl<br />

was, as ever, “fashionably late”, interrupting the service by<br />

clumping down the aisle in his boots. “But the crowds were<br />

cheering,” he says, with a wicked twist of his soft mouth.<br />

Now I am hearing some hot news: Lagerfeld will make<br />

two more collections for Chanel, owned by the Wertheimer<br />

brothers. The house is launching Coco Snow and Coco<br />

Beach, two self-explanatory lines that, with Fendi and his<br />

own Karl Lagerfeld brand, will bring Karl’s workload up<br />

to eight collections a year at Chanel – five at Fendi and two<br />

of his own brand. And those 15 shows do not include his<br />

photography and books, published by his friend and<br />

colleague Gerhard Steidl. Impressive for someone half his<br />

age, although it is still uncertain whether he turns 80 this year<br />

(which he has intimated), or is 84, as claimed by his peers.<br />

“You know, the youth obsession is a kind of racism,” he<br />

says. “Do you know how long my contract is? Until 2045.”<br />

Is this for real? That is more than 25 years from now, by<br />

any reckoning bringing him to at least 105 before he is<br />

allowed to lay down his pencil. He speaks cheerfully about<br />

his never-ending work: “I have a lifelong contract and I am<br />

enchanted,” he says of his roles at the privately owned Chanel<br />

and at Fendi, now part of Arnault’s LVMH empire. “My<br />

work conditions are fabulous and don’t exist anywhere else.”<br />

The following day he will fly to Rome (“for Fendi, of<br />

course, I’m not a tourist”) on a private plane, as he no longer<br />

travels any other way, especially since the selfie generation<br />

appeared. “I’m commercial, but not for commercial flights,”<br />

he says. “I hate all that ‘arms up’ at the airport. I don’t want<br />

to be touched. I can hardly support it with my hairdresser.”<br />

Fendi has been Karl’s first fashion “family”, since he<br />

revitalised the Roman fur house in 1965. Fifty-three years!<br />

Even when I was sitting in front of the Trevi Fountain for<br />

the Fendi Roma haute couture show in 2<strong>01</strong>6, I could hardly<br />

believe the longevity of the partnership.<br />

Silvia Venturini Fendi, the remaining family member in<br />

the company and Lagerfeld’s creative companion, tells me<br />

her childhood memories of those days. “I remember big<br />

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parcels of sketches, books and swatches coming and going<br />

from Paris to Rome – anything to start working,” Silvia<br />

says, explaining that today the drawings are just the same<br />

– precise, detailed, definite – but now arrive digitally, with<br />

no chance of rescuing rejected drawings that, to this day,<br />

Karl will scrunch up and throw away while he goes on to<br />

the next thing. “My Aunt Carla, who was always a good<br />

archivist, used to grab sketches from the dustbin,” she goes<br />

on. “She would iron them and file them in the archives. But<br />

if you talk to him about the archive he becomes mad because<br />

he doesn’t want to talk about the past.”<br />

I remember the detailed drawings I saw in their hundreds<br />

at the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: Modemethode, at the<br />

Bundeskunsthalle in Bonn in 2<strong>01</strong>5. True to form, he never<br />

went to see the work curated by his muse and cultural partner<br />

Amanda Harlech, who had the agonising hope, right to the<br />

end, that he might pass by one day.<br />

I ask him if he still feels emotionally attached to Fendi,<br />

now that Carla, the family matriarch who died last year,<br />

and the sisters have faded away with the arrival of LVMH.<br />

He dismisses my question. “Emotional is difficult to say<br />

– I don’t overact with emotions,” he says. For Lagerfeld,<br />

the end of a collection is the seedbed for the next, and Silvia<br />

Fendi tells me about their ritual at the end of each show,<br />

“when we go backstage and give each other big hugs and<br />

say, ‘OK, let’s do the next one.’”<br />

“Fashion is about change – and I like change,” says Karl,<br />

as though it is a well-worn mantra. As to the work process,<br />

“I do it like I breathe. I wake up in the middle of the night<br />

and have an idea. I put it on a card I have next to my bed<br />

and I make the sketches in the morning before I forget it.”<br />

Where exactly does his own Karl Lagerfeld line fit into<br />

his work and life? I remember him telling me that it was<br />

his “German side”. How is it that he could reinvigorate<br />

Chanel so perfectly and reinvent fur at Fendi, yet has never<br />

been able to develop his own label to the same degree? I<br />

ask him straight out how he feels about his own brand.<br />

“This is a very strange thing – it’s me and it’s not me. It’s<br />

me from outside myself,” he says, looking almost guilty. He<br />

tells me later, “I turned myself into a cartoon” – referring<br />

to the images that decorate his Karl Lagerfeld stores.<br />

Will the real Karl Lagerfeld please stand up? It has<br />

been the big question since I joined the International<br />

Herald Tribune in 1988 and wrote an article suggesting that<br />

Karl played Salieri to Yves Saint Laurent’s Mozart, seeing<br />

in the two musicians the hard worker and the genius. Karl<br />

dismissed the piece at the time, saying that “Salieri had a<br />

better life” – a smart response when Saint Laurent was the<br />

tortured artist and Karl was having fun around town, much<br />

stouter then, hiding his face and making witty remarks from<br />

under an enormous selection of elegant fans. In the 1970s,<br />

when I was at The Times, I would see him as the designer<br />

who brought a fresh, light-hearted vision to Chloé, one<br />

collection with a crystal embroidery of a shower running<br />

down the back.<br />

Lagerfeld was born in Germany in the mid-<br />

1930s, the beginning of a brutal era from which<br />

he says he was totally detached, protected<br />

by living on his father’s country estate. I met<br />

his mother briefly in Paris in the 1970s, when<br />

Karl was at Chloé. He now tells me that<br />

after his father died she wanted to leave Germany, and<br />

her move to Paris was essential. He mentions briefly, in<br />

passing, his sister in America, and her daughter, a promising<br />

opera singer.<br />

Karl has built his own family, and the human equivalent<br />

of cat love appeared two days earlier, when I was in the<br />

Chanel studio and his godson, the nine-year-old Hudson<br />

Kroenig (the model Brad Kroenig’s son), came in with his<br />

latest shopping bag. The confident, perky little boy is casually<br />

cute and appears in the Chanel shows. Karl calls him<br />

“darling” and is amused by his sophisticated knowledge of<br />

cool shops and hot celebrities. “He is the kind of grandson<br />

I would like to have – he’s witty, he’s beyond, and I think<br />

that’s very funny,” says Karl. “I certainly didn’t want to have<br />

children myself, because it’s too much responsibility. I hate<br />

responsibility – that’s why I don’t want to own my business.”<br />

His own childhood, he says, was something to finish as<br />

soon as possible, describing his “charming, devilish mother”<br />

and her sharp tongue, which she would whip out when he<br />

tried to talk to her: “Make an effort, I’m not six – you are.”<br />

He remembers to this day how his mother threw his diary<br />

away because “there is no reason for people to know that<br />

you are that stupid”.<br />

“I hated being a child – I wanted to be a grown-up,” Karl<br />

admits. “I never played with children, I never had toys – only<br />

paper, colours and books. Apparently, I was unbearable to<br />

strangers because I was so obsessed with the idea of being<br />

grown up that I missed my childhood.”<br />

I had tried to talk about these early years when we were<br />

in Hamburg for the Chanel show, but he was not forthcoming<br />

about the city of his birth, explaining that he left long ago,<br />

in his late teens, when he came to Paris and won the<br />

Woolmark Prize, along with Yves Saint Laurent, in 1954.<br />

But now he opens up a little more, expressing regret that he<br />

had not felt close to his elderly father. “My father was a very<br />

nice person, very sweet, but not as fun as my mother; not very<br />

witty, but warm and lovely,” he says. “He was born in 1880 –<br />

from another planet, no? Sometimes I nearly feel guilty that<br />

I was not nice to him, as I was a slave to my mother.” > 207<br />

Above: “I turned<br />

myself into a cartoon”<br />

– a self-portrait by<br />

Karl Lagerfeld<br />

157

158<br />

Top left: dress, to order. Cap, £990. Bag, £9,040.<br />

Top centre: jacket, £9,820. Sweater, £1,250. Skirt,<br />

£3,610. Collar, £620. Cap, £2,140. Bag, £9,040.<br />

Top right: dress, to order. Sweater, £1,250.<br />

Collar, £680. Cap, £990. Bag, £10,770. Above left:<br />

dress, to order. Cap, £1,<strong>01</strong>5. Bag, £13,845.<br />

Above centre: as before. Above right: cardigan,<br />

£3,605. Tank top, £1,315. Collar, £620. Trousers,<br />

to order. Cap, £2,140. Fingerless gloves, £525.<br />

All jewellery, price on request. All Chanel

“Do you know how long<br />

my contract is?” asks<br />

Lagerfeld. “Until 2045.”<br />

Tweed jacket, to order.<br />

Cotton-toile blouse,<br />

£1,710. Cotton trousers,<br />

£1,325. Cap, £1,<strong>01</strong>5.<br />

Bag, £13,845. Jewellery,<br />

price on request.<br />

All Chanel

“I hated being a child<br />

– I wanted to be a grown-up,”<br />

says the designer.<br />

“I never had toys – only<br />

papers, colours and<br />

books. Apparently I was<br />

unbearable to strangers.”<br />

Opposite: feathered organza<br />

dress, to order. Cap, £990.<br />

Bag, £9,040. Jewellery, price<br />

on request. All Chanel. This<br />

page: sequined organza dress,<br />

to order. Sweater, £1,250.<br />

Collar, £680. Cap, £990. Bag,<br />

£10,770. Jewellery, price<br />

on request. All Chanel

162<br />

“I love to be an outsider. I’m part of nothing,<br />

no milieu. I am totally free in that sense of the word.”<br />

This page: top left, jacket, £6,745. Skirt, £1,975. Collar, £710. Cap,<br />

£1,<strong>01</strong>5. Top centre: jacket, £10,550. Top, £6,985. Skirt, £3,<strong>01</strong>5.<br />

Cap, £2,140. Jewelled shoes, £1,765. Top right: top and skirt, to order.<br />

Bag, £9,040. Above left: jacket, £9,820. Sweater, £1,250. Skirt, £3,610.<br />

Collar, £620. Cap, £2,140. Bag, £9,040. Above centre: dress, to order.<br />

Cap, £1,<strong>01</strong>5. Bag, £13,845. Above right: as before. All Chanel.<br />

Opposite: alpaca/wool poloneck sweater, £1,760.<br />

Cashmere/wool poloneck dress, £2,155. Cap, £990. Bags,<br />

£9,040 each. Jewellery, price on request. All Chanel

Opposite: feathered organza<br />

and leather dress, to order.<br />

Leather dress, worn<br />

underneath, £5,115.<br />

Cap, £1,<strong>01</strong>5. Bags, £9,040<br />

each. Jewelled shoes,<br />

£1,765. Jewellery, price<br />

on request. All Chanel.<br />

Above: embellished organza<br />

top and skirt, to order. Bag,<br />

£9,040. Jewellery, price on<br />

request. All Chanel. Tights,<br />

throughout, £19, Falke. Hair:<br />

Syd Hayes. Make-up: Celia<br />

Burton. Nails: Ama Quashie.<br />

Production: MAI. Digital<br />

artwork: Catalin Plesa<br />

at Quickfix Retouch.<br />

Models: Stella Lucia Deopito,<br />

Fatou Jobe, Hoyeon Jung,<br />

Anok Yai. For stockists, all<br />

pages, see <strong>Vogue</strong> Information 165

JAMAICAN<br />

RHAPSODY<br />

THE HEART OF JAMAICA<br />

BEATS LIKE NO OTHER.<br />

FOLLOW US ON A JOURNEY<br />

TO THE ISLAND TODAY, TO<br />

DISCOVER A LAND OF FREE<br />

SPIRITS, LUSH, CAPTIVATING<br />

COUNTRYSIDE AND THE<br />

MAGIC THAT LIES WITHIN.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TIM WALKER<br />

STYLING BY KATE PHELAN<br />

FROM LEFT: BINX WEARS SILK ASYMMETRIC RUFFLE DRESS,<br />

£6,545. DUCHESSE-SATIN BRA, £840. BOTH ALEXANDER MCQUEEN.<br />

VINTAGE FEATHER CAPE, WORN AS HAT, FROM A SELECTION,<br />

MAIREAD LEWIN. FRAN WEARS DECONSTRUCTED JACQUARD,<br />

ORGANZA AND TULLE CORSET TOP, TO ORDER, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN.<br />

SILK CORSET, WORN AS SKIRT, COURTESY OF ANGELS FANCY DRESS.<br />

WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO ISLAND OUTPOST’S GOLDENEYE AND<br />

STRAWBERRY HILL RESORTS, WALTERS PRODUCTION, CATHY SNIPPER,<br />

MAXINE BAILLIE, CARLO LESS, CARLEENE SAMUELS, KARLEEN JACKSON<br />

AND DANE LEWIS. HAIR: CHRISTIAAN HOUTENBOS. MAKE-UP: SAM BRYANT.<br />

PRODUCTION: JEFF DELICH. PRINTING: GRAEME BULCRAIG AT TOUCH<br />

DIGITAL. MODELS: ADUT AKECH, FRAN SUMMERS, BINX WALTON

Opposite: Binx and Fran<br />

both wear knitted fringe<br />

pompom dresses, £4,675,<br />

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC.<br />

Fishnet tights, made into<br />

hats, £14.50, Emilio<br />

Cavallini. Binx wears rubber<br />

and leather boots, £880,<br />

Marni. Fran wears vintage<br />

boots, courtesy of<br />

Contemporary Wardrobe.<br />

This page: Ras Haile Malekot<br />

wears jacket, £1,030.<br />

Trousers, £675. Both<br />

Craig Green, at Selfridges.<br />

Other clothes, his own.<br />

Binx wears fil-coupé dress<br />

embroidered with raffia,<br />

£2,500, Roksanda. Straw<br />

shoes, £165, Benoît Missolin.<br />

Faux-fur hat, courtesy of<br />

Angels Fancy Dress

Above, from left: Fran<br />

wears crochet dress, £7,295.<br />

Crystal cage dress, £11,195.<br />

Both Christopher Kane.<br />

Knickers, £40, Araks. Binx<br />

wears crochet top, £1,725.<br />

Crystal cage T-shirt, £5,595.<br />

Crystal cage skirt, £5,795. All<br />

Christopher Kane. Knickers,<br />

£75, Araks. Vintage feather<br />

cape, worn as hat, as before.<br />

Right: Adut wears cropped<br />

silk top with jewelled straps,<br />

£3,500, Louis Vuitton

Binx wears mohair<br />

dress, £1,020, Jil<br />

Sander. Multicoloured<br />

choker, £225, Elie Saab.<br />

Vintage bead necklaces,<br />

£125 each, Linda Bee.<br />

Hat, stylist’s own

It’s about Jamaica now,” says <strong>Vogue</strong><br />

senior contributing fashion editor<br />

Kate Phelan of the Jamaican<br />

odyssey she embarked on earlier<br />

this year with photographer Tim Walker.<br />

From Island Outpost’s Strawberry<br />

Hill, an enclave of luxury cottages set in<br />

the luscious surrounds of the Blue<br />

Mountains, and its iconic beachside<br />

resort GoldenEye; to the brightly painted<br />

walls of Fleet Street – an artists’ hub in<br />

inner-city Kingston – and a tranquil<br />

working cattle farm on the banks of the<br />

Martha Brae river, the <strong>Vogue</strong> team set out<br />

to show Jamaica in all its colours. “Jamaica<br />

has a very layered culture and a singular<br />

identity,” says Phelan. “The clothes were<br />

meant to reflect these different pockets<br />

of the island.”<br />

To convey that Jamaican spirit,<br />

alongside models Binx Walton, Fran<br />

Summers and Adut Akech, Tim Walker<br />

photographed some of the people who<br />

personify the country today. “The whole<br />

point of the shoot was to bring in<br />

Jamaican musicians, writers and poets,”<br />

says Walker. Some, such as Grace Jones<br />

(photographed overleaf ), are legendary,<br />

while others, like musician, poet and<br />

activist Ras Haile Malekot (pictured left<br />

with Binx), are well-known Kingston<br />

personalities with growing reputations.<br />

But with the light side of Jamaica<br />

comes the dark. On page 181, Walker<br />

photographs members of the Gully<br />

Queens, shining a light on the island’s<br />

persecuted LGBTQ community. “It’s<br />

not a romantic, nostalgic view of the<br />

country,” says Phelan. “It’s the reality of<br />

Jamaica today.” >

Grace Jones wears<br />

corset and arm<br />

cage, to order,<br />

Gareth Pugh. Latex<br />

stockings, £118,<br />

Atsuko Kudo.<br />

Right: duchessesatin<br />

cape, from<br />

£2,630, Nina Ricci.<br />

Perspex hat, to<br />

order, Philip Treacy<br />

It is night at GoldenEye – Chris<br />

Blackwell’s hilltop resort in the<br />

small town of Oracabessa – and<br />

Grace Jones is posing for the<br />

camera, throwing all her trademark<br />

theatrics into channelling a spirit from<br />

Jamaican folklore. The Rolling Calf<br />

is, the legend goes, a huge creature<br />

with blood-red eyes that roams the<br />

countryside at night, shackled in chains,<br />

chasing nighttime travellers.<br />

Jones is a self-confessed vampire, most<br />

at home under the cloak of darkness, so<br />

the Rolling Calf seems a fitting source<br />

of inspiration for her. “The night is a<br />

place that Grace finds exciting,” says<br />

Sophie Fiennes, who spent almost 12<br />

years trailing the singer for her recent,<br />

definitive documentary about Jones,<br />

Bloodlight and Bami. “The night isn’t<br />

frightening to her. It’s full of magic.”<br />

Born in the historic city of Spanish<br />

Town in the south-east of the island,<br />

Jones left Jamaica when she was 13 to<br />

live with family in New York. But those<br />

early years were formative, and Jamaica’s<br />

natural world – the chattering of the<br />

insects, the sway of the tides – has always<br />

informed her artistic output.<br />

“Grace says, ‘I like to live in places for<br />

a season,’ but I’ve seen her increasingly<br />

love being in Jamaica,” says Fiennes.<br />

“She is someone who fluidly operates<br />

in all different worlds, but I think she<br />

feels freer there.” ><br />

174

Deconstructed<br />

trench coat, £2,545.<br />

Deconstructed<br />

cardigan, to order.<br />

Both Maison Margiela

Opposite: Adut wears<br />

multicoloured ruched blouse,<br />

from £5,230, Dolce &<br />

Gabbana. Oversized raffia<br />

hat, £555, Missoni. Track<br />

pants, £155, Andrea Crews<br />

x Newman. This page, left:<br />

Binx wears swimsuit, £290,<br />

Gucci. Track pants, to order,<br />

Palm Angels. Trainers, £780,<br />

Louis Vuitton. Hairband,<br />

made by hair stylist. Below,<br />

from top: Shaddai wears<br />

cashmere sweater, £720, The<br />

Elder Statesman, at Browns.<br />

All other clothes, his own.<br />

Lila wears hooded mesh<br />

jacket with appliqué, £1,170.<br />

Sequined top, £3,150. Both<br />

Gucci. Yellow silk track<br />

pants (seen left), £380,<br />

Serena Bute. Necklace and<br />

sunglasses, her own

A<br />

retired fisherman, Brother Poli<br />

(pictured top left) has lived in<br />

Trench Town since the 1940s.<br />

Now 87 years old, and still a<br />

prominent member of the community, he<br />

is known for mentoring a number of young<br />

Rastafarians – among them Bob Marley<br />

– on the philosophies of Marcus Garvey<br />

and teachings of Haile Selassie, the former<br />

emperor of Ethiopia. If Brother Poli is<br />

a link to Jamaica’s past, Azizzi Romeo is a<br />

symbol of what is to come. Quite literally<br />

dubbed “The Future”, Romeo (son of<br />

successful reggae star Max, pictured here,<br />

and opposite, with Walton), might only be<br />

16 years old, but he is already being hailed<br />

by his peers as the brightest new star of the<br />

roots reggae scene. >

Binx wears striped sweater,<br />

£330. Matching trousers,<br />

£415. Both Marques<br />

Almeida, at Browns and<br />

Farfetch.com. Jewelled<br />

sandals, £295, Christopher<br />

Kane. Straw hat, £261,<br />

Awake, at Totokaelo.com.<br />

Azizzi wears string vests,<br />

from £3 each, at Amazon<br />

Fashion. Cotton trousers,<br />

£625, Loewe. Trainers,<br />

£780, Louis Vuitton

Fran wears shirt,<br />

£965. Feather boa, to<br />

order. Shorts, £930. All<br />

Maison Margiela. Binx<br />

wears jersey turtleneck<br />

dress with fringed<br />

skirt, £4,600, Céline.<br />

Adut wears poncho,<br />

£285, Pleats Please<br />

Issey Miyake

In Kingston, the self-anointed Gully Queens – named<br />

for the sewer in which they have come together to seek<br />

refuge – are fighting Jamaica’s deeply entrenched<br />

intolerance of homosexuality.<br />

Although life is painfully difficult for the country’s young<br />

LGBTQ community, and many of those from the gullies<br />

turn to crime as a means to subsist, or drugs to block out the<br />

everyday, “there’s also this strength of character to survive,”<br />

says Khi James, who helps run the Larry Chang Foundation<br />

which assists Jamaica’s young and homeless LGBTQ people.<br />

“Many of those from the gullies have a very natural way of<br />

expression through clothes, make-up and hair. Call it fierce.”<br />

It’s through fashion and self-expression that the Gully<br />

Queens gain greater visibility, which – although it can bring<br />

unwanted attention – means they can’t be ignored. They give<br />

hope to others who identify with them.<br />

Slowly, though, things are changing in Jamaica. Earlier<br />

this year, more than 39,000 people signed a petition calling<br />

for anti-gay pastor Steven Anderson, from Arizona, to be<br />

denied entry to the country. It was successful. Meanwhile,<br />

the foundation has had its own successes; one individual<br />

is training to be a nurse, while another has secured an<br />

apprenticeship with one of Jamaica’s major hoteliers.<br />

“I believe that there is a younger generation who are<br />

challenging [the norms],” says James. “At ground level, young<br />

people are saying, ‘I’m tired of it, I don’t want to be part of<br />

it.’ They want to be able to live freely in society without fear<br />

of persecution or violence because of who they self-identity<br />

as. But the political voice is quiet because there is still a<br />

genuine fear of raising your head above the parapet. There<br />

has been some progress, but not enough.” Q<br />

181

Opposite: Fran wears<br />

mohair top, £490. Mohair<br />

skirt, £850. Both Jil Sander.<br />

This page, from left: Binx<br />

wears shredded trench coat,<br />

£2,300. Shredded cotton<br />

shirt, £399. Both Faustine<br />

Steinmetz, at Machine-A.<br />

Fran wears fringed trench<br />

coat, £3,250. Suede hat,<br />

from a selection. Both<br />

Loewe. Cotton dress, from<br />

a selection, JW Anderson.<br />

Adut wears trench coat with<br />

floral lining, £1,300, Asai,<br />

at Leclaireur. All wear suede<br />

boots, £590, JW Anderson.<br />

For stockists, all pages,<br />

see <strong>Vogue</strong> Information

THIS PAGE: LINEN BLAZER,<br />

£2,250. SILK SHIRT,<br />

£1,080. CANVAS SKIRT, £805.<br />

GLASSES, FROM £190.<br />

BELT BAG, £765. LEATHER<br />

BAG, £2,250. HOLDALL,<br />

£1,610. ALL GUCCI.<br />

CASHMERE POLONECK,<br />

£795, AGNONA. LEATHER<br />

SHOES, £695, LEMAIRE.<br />

OPPOSITE: WOOL CAPE,<br />

£895. RIBBED WOOL<br />

POLONECK, £295. BOTH<br />

DAKS. WOOL SWEATER, £690.<br />

SILK/COTTON SKIRT, £1,290.<br />

LEATHER BELT, £850.<br />

LEATHER CROSS-BODY BAG,<br />

£2,590. LEATHER TOTE,<br />

£2,690. ALL FENDI. LEATHER<br />

GLOVES, £49, DENTS

High flyers<br />

Strike a deal between<br />

classic tailoring,<br />

namecheck logos<br />

and luxe leather<br />

accessories. The new<br />

in-charge look<br />

mixes old-school<br />

status symbols with<br />

modern attitude.<br />

Photographs by<br />

Venetia Scott.<br />

Styling by Poppy Kain

BOOTS AND SUITS ARE THE NEW<br />

POWER COMBO, WHILE A<br />

LUXURIOUS DRAPED CAPE<br />

ELEGANTLY SOLVES THE ISSUE<br />

OF WHAT TO WEAR OVER<br />

STRUCTURED PIECES WITHOUT<br />

ADDING BULK. FROM LEFT:<br />

FREDERIKKE WEARS WOOL<br />

BLAZER, £1,895. CREPE BLOUSE,<br />

£665. WOOL TROUSERS, £895. ALL<br />

AGNONA. WOOL POLONECK, £225,<br />

PAUL SMITH. LEATHER BOOTS,<br />

£750, BALLY. DENIM CROSS-BODY<br />

BAG, £3,570. VINYL BAG, £2,135.<br />

TRAINERS, £765. ALL CHANEL.<br />

VANESSA WEARS WOOL CAPE,<br />

£765. CASHMERE COAT, £2,365.<br />

LEATHER SHIRT, £2,995. LEATHER<br />

SKIRT, £2,465. CASHMERE<br />

POLONECK, £796. HOUNDSTOOTH<br />

BOOTS, FROM A SELECTION.<br />

ALL AGNONA. LEATHER BELT,<br />

£890, CHANEL. CANVAS AND<br />

LEATHER TOTE, £1,350, DIOR.<br />

UMBRELLA, £420, HERMES. HOOP<br />

EARRINGS, £20, WHISTLES

TAILORED WOOL SEPARATES<br />

IN DEEP BERRY HUES MAKE AN<br />

IDEAL FRAME FOR A NEUTRAL<br />

BLOUSE. A NEATLY DRESSED<br />

NECK ADDS TO THE SENSE OF<br />

PULLED-TOGETHER POISE.<br />

THIS PAGE: WOOL JACKET,<br />

£1,250. WOOL TROUSERS, £550.<br />

TRENCH COAT, ON CHAIR,<br />

£1,450. ALL BURBERRY. SILK<br />

BLOUSE WITH NECKTIE, £925,<br />

FENDI. GOLD-PLATED<br />

EARRINGS, FROM £45, DA-IE.<br />

OPPOSITE: SILK SHIRT,<br />

£250, EQUIPMENT. LACE BRA,<br />

£56, WACOAL. CROPPED WOOL<br />

TROUSERS, £610, VICTORIA<br />

BECKHAM. CANVAS BELT, £240,<br />

LOUIS VUITTON. VINTAGE<br />

HERMES SCARF, FROM A<br />

SELECTION, VESTIAIRE<br />

COLLECTIVE. HOOP EARRINGS,<br />

£20, WHISTLES. BEAUTY NOTE:<br />

A SUBTLE, BERRY STAIN ON THE<br />

LIPS EXUDES SOPHISTICATED<br />

STYLE. TRY YSL BEAUTE<br />

VOLUPTE LIQUID COLOUR<br />

BALM IN HOOK ME BERRY, £26

OPPOSITE: LETTER OPENER, LINLEY. MINI SPEAKER, GOOGLE. LAPTOP CASE, LOUIS VUITTON. DESK JOTTER AND LEATHER PEN HOLDER, BOTH ASPINAL OF LONDON. LEATHER<br />

DESK CLOCK AND WOODEN PAPERWEIGHT, WILLIAM & SON. GOLD PEN HOLDER, TOM DIXON. SPEAKERS, RUARK AUDIO. THIS PAGE: MIRRORED PICTURES, TALISMAN

CHAIRS, TALISMAN<br />

RUNNING AROUND TOWN<br />

CALLS FOR EXACTING<br />

OUTERWEAR. THE MOST<br />

ATTRACTIVE NEW COATS COME<br />

OVERSIZED, IN NATURAL<br />

FABRICS AND EARTHY HUES.<br />

OPPOSITE: LAYERED SILK AND<br />

COTTON TRENCH COAT, £5,000.<br />

WOOL SHIRT, £700. WOOL<br />

TROUSERS, £920. LEATHER<br />

LOAFERS, £740. LEATHER<br />

CLUTCH, £2,200. ALL CELINE.<br />

POLONECK, £150, JOHN<br />

SMEDLEY. LEATHER BELT, £230,<br />

GUCCI. THIS PAGE: COTTON<br />

TRENCH COAT, FROM<br />

£3,390. LEATHER LOAFERS,<br />

FROM £895. MINI PYTHON AND<br />

LEATHER BAG, £2,390. ALL<br />

GIVENCHY. SILK SCARF, £195,<br />

HERMES. POLONECK, £140,<br />

JOHN SMEDLEY. LEATHER AND<br />

PYTHON TOTE, £10,100.<br />

NOTEBOOK, £130.<br />

MONOGRAMMED CASE, £540.<br />

ALL LOUIS VUITTON. SOCKS,<br />

£11, FALKE

BRAINSTORMING:<br />

BEAUTIFULLY SCULPTED<br />

BROWN BOOTS PARTNER<br />

UP WITH A BOLD,<br />

COLOUR-BLOCK DRESS.<br />

COTTON SHIRTDRESS, £600,<br />

PORTS 1961. LEATHER BELT,<br />

£16, ZARA. LEATHER BOOTS,<br />

£885, AQUAZZURA. BEAUTY<br />

NOTE: SOFT, BOUNCY CURLS<br />

STRIKE THE PERFECT<br />

BALANCE BETWEEN GLAMOUR<br />

AND POISE. SPRAY WITH<br />

L’OREAL PARIS ELNETT SATIN<br />

VERY VOLUME EXTRA<br />

STRENGTH HAIRSPRAY, £7,<br />

FOR UNDETECTABLE HOLD

LIGHTING DIRECTOR: RYAN O’TOOLE. COLOUR PRINTING: DAREN CATLIN AT BAYEUX<br />

FROM WORKPLACE TO WORKOUT:<br />

WHITE PUMPS ADD A POP TO<br />

DIOR’S SMART GREY COATDRESS<br />

AND PRISTINE RUNNERS LEND<br />

BOX-FRESH ATTITUDE TO MICHAEL<br />

KORS’S CARMINE TRACKSUIT.<br />

OPPOSITE: WOOL DRESS, £3,500,<br />

DIOR. PATENT-LEATHER BELT,<br />

FROM £310, GIVENCHY. LEATHER<br />

SHOES, £695, LEMAIRE. DIAMOND-<br />

SET WATCH, £5,000, FENDI.<br />

THIS PAGE: TRACK TOP, £580.<br />

TRACK PANTS, £550. LEATHER<br />

CROSSBODY BAG, £650. LEATHER<br />

HOLDALL, £1,080. ALL MICHAEL<br />

KORS COLLECTION. SOCKS, £135,<br />

CHANEL. LEATHER TRAINERS,<br />

£445, VALENTINO GARAVANI.<br />

HOOP EARRINGS, £20, WHISTLES.<br />

YOGA MAT, FROM £70, BODYISM.<br />

LANYARD, £75, CHAOS.<br />

HAIR: ALI PIRZADEH. MAKE-UP:<br />

MIRANDA JOYCE. NAILS: ADAM<br />

SLEE. SET DESIGN: SEAN<br />

THOMSON. PRODUCTION:<br />

BELLHOUSE MARKES. DIGITAL<br />

ARTWORK: IDEA DIGITAL.<br />

LOCATION: THE ADELPHI<br />

BUILDING, COVENT<br />

GARDEN RIVERSIDE. MODELS:<br />

GIEDRE DUKAUSKAITE, OUMIE<br />

JAMMEH, VANESSA MOODY,<br />

FREDERIKKE SOFIE.<br />

FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,<br />

SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

STATE<br />

OF<br />

THE<br />

ARTS<br />

Despite a history as fractious as it is fascinating,<br />

this month the Royal Academy celebrates its 250th<br />

anniversary. Sarah Crompton delves inside a very<br />

<strong>British</strong> institution. Photographs by Anton Corbijn.<br />

Styling by Florence Arnold<br />

The artist Anish Kapoor perches on a worn oak rail in the life room, deep underneath<br />

the Royal Academy of Arts on London’s Piccadilly, and takes in the scene. History<br />

oozes from the battered whitewashed walls, from the towering cast of a horse, its<br />

head tossed proudly, to the sculptural nudes tucked away on shelves. A version of<br />

this room, with its beaten wooden floor, has housed the visions of aspiring and established<br />

artists for more than two centuries (Turner, Constable and Blake among them), while some<br />

of its fittings have been in use for more than 100 years. Today they surround some of art<br />

and architecture’s current leading lights, gathered together by <strong>Vogue</strong> on circular benches for<br />

a historic portrait to commemorate an extraordinary milestone: 250 years of the RA.<br />

There are Gilbert & George, an artwork in themselves, resplendent in prickly suits; Sonia<br />

Boyce, stylish in black, and Rose Wylie, in a jacket she has restyled herself. “It has turned a<br />

perfectly ordinary jacket into Issey Miyake,” she says, smiling. “Though he might not agree.”<br />

Waiting patiently, holding their positions, sit Yinka Shonibare, David Adjaye, Eva Rothschild,<br />

Rebecca Salter and Lucy Evetts (currently a student at the RA Schools, and here representing<br />

its future). In the breaks between shots, they chat quietly among themselves. “We’re very<br />

well-behaved for a group of artists,” says Kapoor, laughing.<br />

In this most revered of institutions, major change is afoot. To mark its anniversary, this<br />

month the Royal Academy unveils the results of its breathtaking £56 million redevelopment.<br />

The rebuild, masterminded by architect David Chipperfield, unites the grandeur of Burlington<br />

House, the Palladian mansion that has housed the RA since 1867, with the mid-Victorian<br />

spaces of a former University of London building in Burlington Gardens at its rear. Together<br />

they will bestow a footprint as large as the <strong>British</strong> Museum’s and create a thoroughfare that<br />

joins Piccadilly on one side with the shops and galleries of Mayfair on the other. “There is<br />

a slightly different demographic on both sides,” notes Chipperfield with a smile. “Linking<br />

the two front doors was of profound importance.”<br />

The idea is to fill these dramatic new spaces – which include an airy double-height lecture<br />

theatre and expanded galleries – with exhibitions and works by academicians. If they so ><br />

196

Marking 250<br />

years of the Royal<br />

Academy, some<br />

of its best-known<br />

academicians<br />

gather in the<br />

courtyard of<br />

Burlington House

“It’s no<br />

longer fuddyduddy.<br />

It’s<br />

become open<br />

and mixed.<br />

It has an<br />

image and a<br />

glamour”<br />

Top row, from left:<br />

The Way In (<strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong>)<br />

by Eva Rothschild;<br />

Tube Girl (2<strong>01</strong>6)<br />

by Rose Wylie;<br />

inside the Royal<br />

Academy’s Summer<br />

Exhibition, 2<strong>01</strong>4.<br />

Middle row, from left:<br />

Greyman Cries,<br />

Shaman Dies,<br />

Billowing Smoke,<br />

Beauty Evoked (2008) by<br />

Anish Kapoor; Untitled<br />

AK17 (2<strong>01</strong>7)<br />

by Rebecca Salter.<br />

Bottom row, from left:<br />

Lay Back, Keep Quiet<br />

and Think of What<br />

Made Britain So Great<br />

(1986) by Sonia Boyce;<br />

Bearding Along (2<strong>01</strong>6)<br />

by Gilbert & George<br />

desire, the public will be able to walk<br />

the length of a new underground passage,<br />

complete with coffee shop and little<br />

bridge, which the Academy describes<br />

as an “alternative Burlington Arcade”,<br />

with art instead of shops. The building<br />

works form part of a long-planned<br />

transformation of the Royal Academy,<br />

one of the most ambitious since its<br />

foundation in 1768, when leading artists,<br />

sculptors and architects of the day first<br />

petitioned George III to help them found<br />

“a society for promoting the Arts of<br />

Design”. They were clear from the outset<br />

what they wanted: a school for creative<br />

excellence and an annual exhibition. The<br />

king was pleased to oblige. A lover of the<br />

arts, he saw no reason – since Italy, France<br />

and the Netherlands had academies –<br />

that Britain should not follow suit.<br />

It is extraordinary how many 18thcentury<br />

traditions the RA retains. At the<br />

annual Summer Exhibition dinner,<br />

members still drink a toast to the Crown,<br />

“our Patron and Protector”. They still<br />

assent to the original Deed of Obligation,<br />

promising to obey its laws and regulations<br />

and “employ our utmost Endeavours<br />

to promote the Honor and Interest of<br />

the Establishment”. More crucially, the<br />

RA is still run by its members, the<br />

academicians, with an ultimate decisionmaking<br />

body of 13 artists and architects,<br />

who make up its council. The professional<br />

staff – currently led by Charles Saumarez<br />

Smith, secretary and chief executive –<br />

report to the council, and the general<br />

assembly of the total membership (never<br />

more than 80 RAs, plus honorary<br />

academicians from abroad and senior<br />

academicians who are over 75 years old)<br />

meets three times a year.<br />

This makes the place “pretty wild”,<br />

says Christopher Le Brun, president<br />

since 2<strong>01</strong>1. There are factions, strong<br />

passions and arguments. David<br />

Chipperfield, an RA himself, describes<br />

it as “the Naples of the museum world”.<br />

But as Rebecca Salter, only the second<br />

woman to hold the position of<br />

Keeper of the Royal Academy Schools,<br />

notes: “What makes it such a difficult<br />

organism, but really special, is that it’s<br />

not run by an algorithm, it’s run by<br />

artists. Whatever we do, you might not<br />

like it, but it won’t be dull.”<br />

The power of the artist has not always<br />

worked in the RA’s favour. In 1949 its<br />

then president Alfred Munnings gave<br />

a drunken valedictory speech in which<br />

he attacked modernism, claiming he<br />

would be willing to kick Picasso if he<br />

saw him in the street. Broadcast on BBC<br />

radio, the speech all but ruined the RA’s<br />

reputation. No contemporary artist<br />

wanted to be seen dead there for<br />

decades, with Francis Bacon, Frank<br />

Auerbach and Bridget Riley among<br />

those who turned down membership.<br />

When Hugh Casson, a moderniser, was<br />

elected president in 1976, the slow<br />

process of change began. Norman<br />

Rosenthal took over as exhibitions<br />

secretary in 1977 and provided a muchneeded<br />

blast of fresh air. The shows he<br />

masterminded, including The Glory of<br />

Venice in 1994 and Sensation in 1997,<br />

brought scholarship, contemporary art<br />

and – crucially – a paying public through<br />

the doors. “I believe he was the making<br />

of the RA,” says Kapoor. “He always<br />

held this incredibly high ground which<br />

said what matters in the end is the<br />

quality of the art.”<br />

The sense of adventure in the<br />

Royal Academy’s exhibition<br />

programme persists under the<br />

guidance of Tim Marlow, its<br />

current artistic director. A place that,<br />

without government subsidy, can this<br />

year alone shift its gaze from Charles I’s<br />

magnificent art collection to new work<br />

by Tacita Dean, to the Summer<br />

Exhibition and a Renzo Piano show, is<br />

one brimming with confidence. “We are<br />

not driven by what we ought to do but<br />

what we want to do,” says Le Brun,<br />

enthusiastically. “I never want to be<br />

worthy. I want to be exciting and risky.”<br />

Today’s list of academicians also<br />

shows how volcanically the ground has<br />

shifted. It provides an increasingly<br />

rounded snapshot of art in Britain, from<br />

David Hockney and Antony Gormley,<br />

to Gillian Wearing and Tracey Emin,<br />

to David Remfry, Bob and Roberta<br />

Smith and Grayson Perry. Honorary<br />

global academicians include Ai Weiwei<br />

(who, in a radical and important gesture,<br />

was elected while he was in prison),<br />

Anselm Kiefer and Cindy Sherman.<br />

It may still be the face of the art<br />

establishment, but it is a lively one.<br />

“I had never been ambitious to be an<br />

academician,” says Yinka Shonibare,<br />

whose vivid Wind Sculpture VI, with its<br />

billowing bright fabric, stood next to the<br />

statue of Joshua Reynolds in the courtyard<br />

of last year’s summer show. “I thought it<br />

was very establishment. All old white<br />

men. But there are many more artists of<br />

my generation here now and it is much<br />

more diverse. But every institution will<br />

reflect its own time.” The election of<br />

women has been accelerated in recent<br />

years, too. “It’s no longer fuddy-duddy,”<br />

says Rose Wylie, whose exhibition at the<br />

Serpentine Sackler last summer showed<br />

a painter at the height of her powers at<br />

the age of 83. “It’s become open and<br />

mixed. It has an image and a glamour.<br />

It can be very depressing painting. This<br />

is rather like being at an art school.”<br />

Architect David Adjaye, who became<br />

an academician last year, agrees: “I love<br />

the fact that it is one of the few institutions<br />

that has artists coming together and<br />

making a safe house for themselves and<br />

having peer-to-peer dialogue.” He laughs,<br />

warmly. “Besides, it is a very grand house<br />

and has an incredible history. Why<br />

wouldn’t you want to join a club like that?”<br />

The effect of membership, says Sonia<br />

Boyce, the first black woman to have<br />

work bought by the Tate and be elected<br />

to the RA, has been unexpected. “It’s<br />

made me take myself more seriously in<br />

a funny way. I came into it not knowing<br />

what it meant and not realising fully what<br />

a big deal it is to be recognised by one’s<br />

peers. That’s the astonishing part.”<br />

It is a sign of the Royal Academy’s<br />

wide embrace that different artists<br />

can view it in entirely different ways.<br />

Gilbert & George, elected as a single<br />

academician in 2<strong>01</strong>7, when the rules<br />

changed to allow collaborative artists<br />

to be admitted, make clear they accepted<br />

membership because they want to<br />

exhibit in Burlington House’s elegant<br />

galleries. “We did all the other ones, so<br />

why not this one?” says Gilbert (surname<br />

Prousch). “There is a very different<br />

public and they are very beautiful<br />

rooms,” says George (Passmore). “I<br />

think they have to modernise,” continues<br />

Gilbert, mischievously. “That’s why they<br />

need people like us. Otherwise it is only<br />

for the grey gentleman, the grey ladies.<br />

No young people would come here.”<br />

(They are 74 and 76 respectively.)<br />

Sculptor Eva Rothschild values the<br />

range of ages among the academicians.<br />

REBECCA WEARS SHIRT, REJINA PYO. LUCY WEARS BODYSUIT, AZZEDINE ALAIA. SKIRT, PRADA, AT MYTHERESA.COM. SHOES, MANOLO BLAHNIK.<br />

DAVID WEARS SUIT, KILGOUR. ALL OTHER CLOTHES, ARTISTS’ OWN. ANTON CORBIJN; ANISH KAPOOR/DAVE MORGAN; BENEDICT JOHNSON;<br />

EVA ROTHSCHILD/ROBERT GLOWACKI AND STUART SHAVE/MODERN ART, LONDON; GILBERT & GEORGE/WHITE CUBE; REBECCA SALTER/<br />

FXP PHOTOGRAPHY; ROSE WYLIE/DAVID ZWIRNER, LONDON; SONIA BOYCE/ARTS COUNCIL COLLECTION AND DACS/ARTIMAGE

“It is a really positive thing that it is so<br />

inter-generational,” she says. “It isn’t<br />

about that year or the work you have<br />

just made, or the show you have just<br />

had. There is a sense of commitment<br />

to artists throughout their life.” Of<br />

course, debate about the value of the<br />

RA often gravitates towards the merits<br />

– or otherwise – of the Summer<br />

Exhibition. First held in 1769, it is the<br />

world’s largest open-entry art show<br />

and, to the art-loving public, as<br />

essential a part of <strong>British</strong> summer as<br />

rain at Wimbledon. “I live in a village<br />

where people don’t care if you have a<br />

show at the Serpentine,” reveals Wylie.<br />

“‘Are you in the Summer Exhibition?’<br />

they ask. That is what touches them.”<br />

Although a show where amateurs rub<br />

shoulders with established artists<br />

produces sneers of contempt in some<br />

quarters of the contemporary art world,<br />

Shonibare believes it is vital to the<br />

Royal Academy’s character. “The ethos<br />

is central to what the RA does. It is<br />

open, it’s inclusive. No other institution<br />

does that.” Most crucially, the Summer<br />

Exhibition is a fundraiser for the<br />

RA Schools – now the only free<br />

postgraduate art school in the country.<br />

The entwined purpose of an exhibition<br />

to sell work and a school to train the<br />

next generation of artists remains<br />

central to the work of the RA today.<br />

“It has become a really important part<br />

of contemporary art, of shaping artists’<br />

careers,” says Rothschild. “It is enabling<br />

a generation of future artists.” For<br />

student Lucy Evetts, the benefits are<br />

all too apparent; having her own studio<br />

to work in, and the fact that the school<br />

is so small (with only around 16<br />

postgraduates), to say nothing of the<br />

fact that it’s free. “It is a privilege to be<br />

part of all this history, but I also want<br />

to go forward as a strong female artist,”<br />

says the 28-year-old.<br />

That balance of past and present, of a<br />

heavy history and a bright future, is the<br />

tightrope the RA walks. As its building<br />

now faces in two directions, it holds<br />

within its walls a series of dualisms: it<br />

wants to be both exclusive and inclusive,<br />

a club for professional and talented<br />

members, but also a place that everyone<br />

can enjoy. It wants to respect the work<br />

of older artists, but encourage the young.<br />

“Society is transforming so quickly now,”<br />

says Le Brun. “I just hope we have given<br />

ourselves the potential for things to come<br />

that I can only guess at.” Meanwhile,<br />

back in the life room, the shoot is over<br />

and Anish Kapoor is in a reflective mood.<br />

“Looking around, I felt we were artists<br />

from modern Britain,” he says, happily.<br />

“And I love that.” Q<br />

Pictured within the<br />

historical life room<br />

beneath the Royal<br />

Academy. Back row,<br />

from left: Eva Rothschild,<br />

Rebecca Salter, Lucy<br />

Evetts, Gilbert & George<br />

and Anish Kapoor.<br />

Front row, from left:<br />

Yinka Shonibare,<br />

Sonia Boyce, David<br />

Adjaye and Rose Wylie.<br />

Hair: Paul Donovan.<br />

Make-up: Laura<br />

Dominique. Set design:<br />

Sophie Durham.<br />

Digital artwork:<br />

Brian Dowling<br />

199

WINNER:<br />

MOLLY GODDARD<br />

Molly Goddard’s international fanbase<br />

executed a collective fist pump when the<br />

first picture broke of Rihanna in her<br />

highlighter-blue tulle dress, sunglasses<br />

on, striking a pose in a corridor. It was<br />

evidence of what Goddard’s devotees<br />

have always known: her signature frothy<br />

dresses in sugar-spun colours have a<br />

feisty spirit. “You couldn’t pay for better<br />

advertising,” the 29-year-old designer,<br />

who hand-smocked the custom dress for<br />

one of pop’s biggest stars, acknowledges.<br />

Goddard is one of fashion’s most frugal<br />

creatives, having meticulously managed<br />

her slow but sound expansion and her<br />

tiny, east-London-based team of four. But<br />

it almost never existed. Goddard failed<br />

her masters, and her brand is the happy<br />

accident of a party she threw where girls<br />

wore dresses she’d made. Dover Street<br />

Market subsequently placed an order.<br />

Is she proud of going it alone four years<br />

ago? “The brand just happened. I never<br />

even decided to call it ‘Molly Goddard’.<br />

I should have named it something wild!”<br />

What will she do with this win? “The big<br />

thing is structure and staff. I want to<br />

make the best of everything – and I want<br />

to make sure my team is happy.”<br />

Jourdan wears smocked cotton-voile<br />

dress, £2,270, Molly Goddard

HUISHAN ZHANG<br />

It’s lucky that 35-year-old<br />

designer Huishan Zhang is a<br />

morning person: he’s up with the<br />

lark to make his daily 5.30am<br />

call to his 30-strong Qingdao<br />

atelier. “People think of China as<br />

a manufacturer of cheap goods,<br />

but I want to focus on<br />

craftsmanship,” he says of the<br />

decision to produce in his<br />

hometown. Zhang, who was<br />

hand-picked by Delphine Arnault<br />

to work in the leather goods and<br />

couture departments at Dior,<br />

post-graduation from Central<br />

Saint Martins, trained his<br />

workforce from scratch to<br />

exacting Parisian principles. His<br />

hyper-feminine, delicate designs<br />

(the ruffle-hemmed Jodie dress is<br />

a sell-out) have been popular<br />

since he launched in 2<strong>01</strong>1, but<br />

<strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong> is all about storytelling.<br />

“I want to inspire people,” he says.<br />

Jourdan wears organza<br />

and feather dress, £2,095,<br />

Huishan Zhang<br />

THE<br />

CLASS<br />

OF<br />

<strong>2<strong>01</strong>8</strong>London’s<br />

reputation as<br />

a seedbed of raw talent is<br />

undisputed, but this year’s<br />

crop has real buzz. Ellie Pithers<br />

introduces the BFC/<strong>Vogue</strong><br />

Designer Fashion Fund finalists<br />

– and winner – while Jourdan<br />

Dunn showcases their work.<br />

Photographs by Scott Trindle.<br />

Styling by Jack Borkett<br />

XXX

DAVID KOMA<br />

Tbilisi-born David Koma seemed<br />

destined to be a tennis player –<br />

until he created his first “collection”<br />

aged 13, comprising three coats,<br />

and convinced his parents that<br />

his talents lay in design. Now, he<br />

dresses them: Maria Sharapova and<br />

Svetlana Kuznetsova are both fans<br />

of his form-fitting power pieces, and<br />

repeatedly call on him for red-carpet<br />

one-offs. “My dresses give them this<br />

extra strength,” says Koma, 32, who<br />

recently redoubled his efforts on<br />

the eponymous brand he founded<br />

straight out of Central Saint Martins<br />

in 2009, having enjoyed four years<br />

simultaneously heading up Mugler<br />

in Paris. He lives just “one cigarette”<br />

away from his Shoreditch studio<br />

(he smokes <strong>Vogue</strong>s), and his label’s<br />

bestselling pieces are short and<br />

snappy to match, but Koma is<br />

keen to expand its repertoire.<br />

“I want to launch a pre-fall line<br />

and e-commerce,” he confirms.<br />

Jourdan wears dress with lace<br />

ruffle, £1,800. Leather boots,<br />

to order. Both David Koma

LE KILT<br />

“We talk a lot about sustainability<br />

so it seems mad to stage a show<br />

that’s over in 40 minutes and<br />

thrown away,” says Sam McCoach,<br />

31, of the decision not to show<br />

during London Fashion Week in<br />

February. Instead, the Edinburghborn<br />

designer allocated resources<br />

to an exhibition, staged during<br />

Craft Week in May, as well as a<br />

nationwide series of workshops<br />

educating customers on mending<br />

their clothes. Experimentation –<br />

which includes adding Londonmade<br />

denim and patchworked<br />

cashmere to the traditionally made<br />

Scottish kilts with which she<br />

launched – has paid off: sales<br />

are up. “I’ve realised I don’t need<br />

tons of newness every season<br />

– the newness just needs to<br />

be specific,” she says. Who else<br />

provides sage business advice?<br />

“Paul Smith told me you need to<br />

‘walk like an Egyptian’ – it’s about<br />

balance,” she recalls. “And not<br />

letting hype run away with you.”<br />

Jourdan wears denim jacket, £795.<br />

Wool top, £90. Wool kilt, £540.<br />

All Le Kilt. Silver necklace, £257,<br />

Alan Crocetti, at Matchesfashion.com<br />

XXX

REJINA PYO<br />

Yolk yellow, with puffed sleeves<br />

and a nipped-in waist: Rejina Pyo’s<br />

Jamie dress was destined to be<br />

Insta-famous, and after a slew of<br />

street-style personalities made it a<br />

hit, it proved a firelighter for the<br />

34-year-old designer’s nascent<br />

business. An offbeat femininity is<br />

Pyo’s calling card: her groove is<br />

juicy hued, with skewed buttons<br />

and quirky detailing, and now<br />

includes a line of statement-making<br />

accessories. (No wonder orders<br />

are doubling every season.) That<br />

savviness extends to business:<br />

“I make everything in Korea,<br />

where I’m from, and a free-trade<br />

agreement means we can export<br />

directly from Seoul.” Hiring to<br />

expand the <strong>British</strong> team to seven<br />

(with three more in Seoul),<br />

improving Instagram content<br />

and building e-commerce are<br />

all on the to-do list – the better<br />

to capitalise on customer data.<br />

“Erin Wasson ordered something<br />

from our site the other day.<br />

The Erin Wasson!” she squeals.<br />

Jourdan wears cotton coat, £695.<br />

Cotton trousers, £350. Leather<br />

shoes, £490. All Rejina Pyo

MARQUES ALMEIDA<br />

When Marta Marques, 31, and<br />

Paulo Almeida, 32, get bogged<br />

down running a fashion brand,<br />

one will hand the other<br />

“Perspective” – the nickname<br />

they give to their one-year-old<br />

daughter, Maria. “She keeps us<br />

grounded,” says Marta.<br />

“And reminds us we have a<br />

responsibility,” says Paulo. The<br />

duo pioneered diversity on the<br />

catwalk with their personalityled<br />

#MAGirls initiative, inviting<br />

friends of all shapes and<br />

backgrounds to represent the<br />

label. “It isn’t about looks only<br />

– it’s about lives. These are cool<br />

girls and we want them to feel<br />

good.” A clever distillation of<br />

offbeat effortlessness defines the<br />

clothes, from the frayed-edge<br />

denim that proved a jump lead,<br />

to the acid-hued quilted jackets,<br />

rock-star tailoring and feathertrimmed<br />

minidresses that now<br />

sustain its success. What have<br />

they learnt since they launched<br />

in 2<strong>01</strong>1 and swelled to a team<br />

of 25? “Stick to your guns.”<br />

Jourdan wears halterneck cotton<br />

top, £370. Cotton trousers,<br />

£555. Both Marques Almeida.<br />

Hair: Marcia Lee. Make-up: Jenny<br />

Coombs. Nails: Pebbles Aikens.<br />

Digital artwork: IMGN Studio<br />

XXX

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A<br />

Agnona 020 7225 5787<br />

Alberta Ferretti<br />

020 7235 2349<br />

Alexander McQueen<br />

020 7355 0088<br />

Allblues.se<br />

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020 3691 2982<br />

Amazon.co.uk/fashion<br />

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Andrea Crews x Newman<br />

Andreacrews.com<br />

Annoushka.com<br />

Aquazzura 020 3828 0433<br />

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Atlein.com<br />

Atsukokudo.com<br />

B<br />

Bally 020 7491 7<strong>06</strong>2<br />

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C<br />

Calvin Klein<br />

205W39NYC<br />

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Carven 020 7225 7110<br />

Céline 020 7491 8200<br />

Chanel 020 7493 5040<br />

Chanel Haute Couture,<br />

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Cultgaia.com<br />

D<br />

Da-ie.com<br />

Daks 020 7409 4040<br />

Davidkoma.co.uk<br />

Davidlinley.com<br />

Dents.co.uk<br />

Diesel.com<br />

Dinosaurdesigns.co.uk<br />

Dior 020 7172 <strong>01</strong>72<br />

Dkny.com<br />

Dolce & Gabbana<br />

020 7659 9000<br />

Dolce & Gabbana Alta<br />

Gioielleria 020 7659 9000<br />

DVF West 020 7499 0886<br />

E<br />

Elie Saab 020 8173 5000<br />

Ellenchristinecouture.com<br />

Ellery.com<br />

Elvdenim.com<br />

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Equipmentfr.com<br />

F<br />

Faethmillinery.com<br />

Falke.com<br />

Fd-gallery.com<br />

Fendi 020 7927 4172<br />

Fenwick 020 7629 9161<br />

G<br />

Garethpughstudio.com<br />

G by Glenn Spiro<br />

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Givenchy.com<br />

Gucci 020 7235 6707<br />

H<br />

Harrods 020 3626 7020<br />

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020 7629 9466<br />

I<br />

Isabel Marant<br />

020 7499 7887<br />

J<br />

Jacquemus.com<br />

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L<br />

Lanvin 020 7491 1839<br />

Leclaireur.com<br />

Lekilt.co.uk<br />

Lemaire.fr<br />

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Lizziefortunato.com<br />

Loewe 020 7499 0266<br />

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Louis Vuitton<br />

020 3214 9200<br />

M<br />

Machine-a.com<br />

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Manolo Blahnik<br />

020 3793 6794<br />

Marc Jacobs 020 7399 1690<br />

Margaret Howell<br />

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N<br />

Needleandthread.com<br />

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O<br />

Off-White x Sunglass Hut<br />

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P<br />

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R<br />

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S<br />

Saint Laurent by Anthony<br />

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T<br />

Talisman 020 7731 4686<br />

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V<br />

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< 157 KARL LAGERFELD<br />

One period that Karl is reluctant to discuss is his<br />

relationship with Jacques de Bascher, which lasted<br />

for nearly two decades, until Aids swept through the<br />

1980s, destroying a generation and taking away so<br />

many in the fashion world, including his partner. Of<br />

that dark and tragic period, Karl says briskly, “I’m<br />

with Madonna, who says, ‘I don’t remember the 1980s<br />

because I wasn’t born.’ It’s still a nightmare I prefer<br />

to forget.” I never felt that personal turmoil in his<br />

collections at the time, as Lagerfeld moved Chanel<br />

forward, reinvigorating the Coco years and focusing<br />

on the codes, from pearls to tweeds, that had faded<br />

away in the last years of Gabrielle Chanel herself.<br />

Whenever I shut my eyes to recall his early shows<br />

for Chanel, I see a vision of Ines de la Fressange,<br />

with her aristocratic cheekbones and toothy smile.<br />

I asked her recently about those Chanel revival years<br />

and she waxed lyrical. “I have thousands of memories.<br />

With Karl we invented something that was a bit<br />

more than a mannequin – a ‘brand ambassador’. But<br />

this new métier was spontaneous each day. In<br />

contrast to the mannequins who came to try on their<br />

outfits two hours before the show, I was in the studio<br />

from the first choice of fabrics and the first drawings,”<br />

de la Fressange says.<br />

“I could give my opinion or choose the clothes<br />

that I would wear,” she remembers. “And travelling<br />

with Karl was such fun! We played a lot of games.<br />

We spent our time at the café in the Rue Cambon<br />

and went out in the depths of the night to buy<br />

records on the Champs-Elysées.”<br />

In conversation, Lagerfeld switches from French<br />

to English and occasionally German, so I ask him<br />

which country feels like home. The answer is sharp<br />

and impassioned. “No! No! I am a citizen of Europe.<br />

I’m not French and I never intend to become French,<br />

because I like to be a stranger,” he says. “I’m a<br />

stranger in Germany and a stranger here. I never<br />

wanted to be part of something I could not get away<br />

from. I love to be an outsider. I’m part of nothing,<br />

no milieu. I am totally free in that sense of the word.”<br />

I contemplate playing psychoanalyst and asking<br />

Karl why he feels this disconnection, but my proposed<br />

question is quashed before I speak. “I want to have a<br />

superficial image – I don’t want to look serious,” Karl<br />

says. “You can be serious, but you mustn’t show it.”<br />

I think of the number of couture clients that Karl<br />

must have dressed at Chanel for more than three<br />

decades, and look forward to some juicy stories that<br />

might include how he thinks Meghan Markle should<br />

dress for her wedding to Prince Harry. But he appears<br />

utterly uninterested in famous clients, except for his<br />

friend Princess Caroline of Hanover and her family.<br />

“I never go into the salon – never!” he proclaims.<br />

“You’ve never seen me there. I never go to the shops<br />

to take selfies with clients. The only thing you can<br />

do is stay home. Go from door to door.”<br />

I realise we’ve been talking for two hours, ranging<br />

from books he could not bear to part with to trenchant<br />

comments about immigration in Germany. “Only<br />

bad journalists talk that long,” I say. He replies: “I’ve<br />

known you long enough that I don’t consider you a<br />

journalist – I don’t have to see you in such a limited<br />

frame.” But after all these years of seeing him at work,<br />

at home, publicly and privately, I still don’t know<br />

which of his different personas is the real Karl. Q<br />

207

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This quintessentially Swiss<br />

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ADVERTISERS SHOULD CONTACT 020 7499 9080 EXT 3705 OR EMAIL CLASSVOGUE@CONDENAST.CO.UK

Hans Place<br />

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An impressive townhouse (with lift) in this highly sought after square in the heart of Knightsbridge. The house has been refurbished to<br />

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Family Room • Dining Room • Kitchen • Lift • Plant Room • Study • Garden • Terrace • Balcony • EPC Rating D<br />

AVAILABLE FURNISHED<br />

020-7225 0277<br />

www.russellsimpson.co.uk<br />

£8,250 PER WEEK

Rosemoor Studios<br />

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Rosemoor Studios is a collection of just four apartments within this striking new build development, only moments from Sloane<br />

Square. Thoughtful contemporary design and the highest quality materials underpin every aspect of these modern Chelsea residences.<br />

From the high specification appliances and bespoke kitchens, to the 10 year Premier Guarantee, accompanied<br />

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LEASEHOLD: APPROX 998 YEARS<br />

020-7225 0277<br />

www.russellsimpson.co.uk<br />

PRICE ON APPLICATION

TREVOR SQUARE, KNIGHTSBRIDGE SW7<br />

This fabulous six bedroom duplex apartment (6,400 sqft /<br />

595 sqm) is located across two floors in this exclusive residential<br />

apartment block. Originally developed by Candy & Candy to<br />

the highest specifications, the accommodation includes three<br />

amazing reception rooms overlooking Trevor Square totalling 75<br />

feet in length with an extremely spacious kitchen/breakfast room.<br />

The master bedroom suite includes two bathrooms and two<br />

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suites, all with ensuite bathrooms. Four very generous parking<br />

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HARRODSESTATES.COM

17-22 Trevor Square is a few minutes’ walk from Harrods, Hyde<br />

Park and Sloane Street and was originally redeveloped from<br />

the former Harrods depository building in 2002, providing<br />

generously proportioned residences behind a 19th century listed<br />

façade, providing a full 24-concierge service, private car parking<br />

and 24 hour security.<br />

Guide Price: £30,000,000 Subject to Contract<br />

Tenure: Leasehold with 982 years remaining<br />

Viewing: Strictly by appointment<br />

EPC: Rating D<br />

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: T: +44 (0) 20 7225 65<strong>06</strong><br />

shaun.drummond@harrodsestates.com<br />

HARRODSESTATES.COM

condenastjohansens.com<br />

Monaci delle Terre Nere, Sicily, Italy

Mallorca . Architectural Masterpiece<br />

in Best Location<br />

Situated in Old Bendinat, one of the most desirable addresses in<br />

Mallorca, and just a short walk from the sea, this new built villa<br />

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The prestigious property features a guest apartment and a lush<br />

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E&V ID: W-0247DG . Price on request<br />

Engel & Völkers Portals . Tel.: +34-971 67 68 36<br />

portals@engelvoelkers.com . www.engelvoelkers.com/villabendinat

Your parkside<br />

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Visit Fenman House<br />

Live amongst the manicured<br />

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Move into Fenman House today.<br />

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020 7205 2082<br />

fenmanhouse.co.uk<br />

*Price correct at the time of going to press.<br />

Photography of 8th floor apartment.

500CHISWICKHIGHROAD.CO.UK

Spend your spare time<br />

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At Upper Longcross our beautiful 5 bedroom homes benefit from a<br />

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Pricing correct on 29.03.18

VOGUE ASKS<br />

What’s the secret to<br />

a good night’s sleep?<br />

“The BBC’s David<br />

Attenborough and<br />

his Blue Planet<br />

series. Not because<br />

it puts me to sleep<br />

– it’s utterly<br />

engrossing – but it<br />

means I can relax.”<br />

What’s your<br />

favourite<br />

red-carpet<br />

look?“A yellow<br />

Versace gown,<br />

because no one<br />

ever wears<br />

yellow and it<br />

really popped.”<br />

Jacket, £2,610.<br />

Mules, £545.<br />

Both Versace<br />

What would<br />

Jane Fonda do?<br />

Advice on love, life and fashion from the star<br />

Where do you see #TimesUp taking Hollywood?<br />

“To a new era of safety and respect – alongside<br />

our sisters who work in the fields, janitors,<br />

care-givers, domestic workers, restaurant<br />

workers, trans women, athletes... all of whom<br />

find it even harder than actors to speak up.”<br />

What was the key to successfully returning to<br />

acting when you were in your sixties?<br />

I had stayed creative, curious and fit.<br />

Do you feel more powerful now than you did<br />

before?<br />

Much more. I’m a late bloomer… which is OK,<br />

as long as you don’t miss the flower show.<br />

What do you spend too much money on?<br />

Art.<br />

What is your greatest fear?<br />

Dying with a lot of regrets. Hence, I’m trying<br />

to live this last part so as to do something about<br />

what might be a regret.<br />

What is your biggest weakness?<br />

Moving too fast – not physically, but with<br />

decisions and actions.<br />

What advice would you give to young women<br />

seeking a pay rise?<br />

Prove why you’re worth it, and be worth it.<br />

Where should I go for a holiday?<br />

Don’t know about you but for me, beautiful<br />

forests and mountains I can climb are restorative.<br />

What’s your favourite scent?<br />

Musk.<br />

If you had five minutes with President Trump,<br />

what would you tell him?<br />

Resign, and take all your appointees and<br />

policies with you.<br />

How should I take my martinis?<br />

[Record producer] Richard Perry, with whom<br />

I lived for six years, makes the best. My favourite<br />

is a lychee martini with Chopin Vodka.<br />

How have you coped with the male-female<br />

power matrix throughout your career?<br />

I think the fact that I was Henry Fonda’s<br />

daughter helped.<br />

How can I be more green?<br />

Take your money out of banks that invest in<br />

the fossil-fuel industry; stop using plastics and<br />

switch to biodegradable products; drive an<br />

electric or hybrid car.<br />

What’s the key to being a good friend?<br />

Being constructively honest, showing up fully,<br />

giving encouragement and care. Q<br />

Fonda in 1965<br />

What beauty secret<br />

do you swear by?<br />

“Eight to nine hours’<br />

sleep a night. And my<br />

skin is dry, so I need<br />

a rich moisturiser.”<br />

L’Oréal Paris<br />

Age Perfect Night<br />

Cream, £13<br />

INTERVIEW BY ELLIE PITHERS. THOMAS WHITESIDE/TRUNK ARCHIVE;<br />

DAVID BAILEY; BBC; RACHEL BUTLER; PAUL BOWDEN; GETTY; PIXELATE.BIZ

PERFECTIL.COM<br />

COLLAGEN DRINKS<br />

“ How you look and feel comes<br />

from within, having that inner<br />

light. Whatever you<br />

do, give it your all,<br />

and be amazing.”<br />

ALSO AVAILABLE: COLLAGEN HAIR<br />

From Boots, Superdrug, supermarkets, Holland & Barrett, health stores, pharmacies<br />

With biotin which contributes to the maintenance of normal skin, plus zinc which<br />

contributes to the maintenance of normal hair.<br />

* UK’s No1 beauty supplement brand for skin, hair and nails. Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Unit Sales 52 w/e 2 December 2<strong>01</strong>7.

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