PMCI - February 2017

The three belts that I have included here use different ways of
securing the belt. Component battle belts consist of a MOLLE
pad with a separate belt that is threaded through the pad. The
buckles on the belt can be of any type as you can use any belt
that is suitable. The most common component battle belts in
use have a quick release clip or roll pin buckle. The choice of
what belt and fastening system you go for is a luxury you have
when choosing a component battle belt. Some battle belts have
an integrated buckle system that is attached directly to the belt
by means of webbing strap or strips with an adjustable buckle
system. Integrated buckles, although fully adjustable, need to
be fixed or discarded if the belt should break. Component belts,
however, are fixed by simply replacing the broken belt for a new
one. Any belt will do so long as it is wide enough to support
the MOLLE pad. I’ve even seen a battle belt being held together
with 550 cord and cable ties after the buckle on the belt broke;
a quick battlefield fix until a new belt could be found.
CIVVY AND MIL
Battle belts are not always seen or used in areas of conflict. My
civilian range belt has a similar setup as my duty battle belt.
Consisting of a 2 inch wide belt, (without a pad), leather holster,
magazine pouches, PFAK (Personal First Aid Kit), this setup allows
me to continue with my training but without looking like Rambo
down on my local firearms range. Many civilian ranges these
days tend to shy away from the military look. As I don’t spend
all day at the range with my belt around my waist, I don’t feel
the need for a pad. The padding provides comfort and support
when the battle belt is fully laden with kit. There are several
widths and thicknesses of padding as well as materials.
If the padding is too thick then the belt will tend to lose grip
and move around when you move. Likewise if the belt is too
wide the belt also tends to move. A good amount of MOLLE strips
to secure your kit is three, but I have found that a minimum of
two works fine. This will enable you to have two rows of MOLLE
and some extra padding above and below the strips without
making the belt too wide. This will make the belt a lot narrower
and still afford maximum comfort and grip during use.
Depending on the intended use of your battle belt, you
will need to consider not only the amount of MOLLE you have
but also the width, thickness, and padding including the inner
lining material. The amount of kit you will be carrying also
needs careful consideration in regards to weight and bulk. Most
setups allow for a ‘free floating’ belt, however, if your battle
belt is going to be laden down with copious amounts of heavy
ammunition, grenades and other supplies then you may need
to consider the use of a yoke or suspenders. Most battle belts
have attachment points built in to accommodate a yoke of some
description. A yoke is a simple design, much like braces, that
helps to keep the belt in place by the straps crossing over your
shoulders. The yoke will help bear a great amount of weight and
prevent the belt from sagging and moving during use. The yoke
will also aid in comfort and release weight from your waist and hips.
The lining of the belt is another important consideration.
Rubber is used in some belts to reduce the movement of the
belt whilst running and during other physical activities. I have
found that a rubber lining rubs after a while and is of no use
in hot and humid climates. Thicker padded mesh lining is, for
me, an all round winner. This is not only comfortable but it also
wicks away sweat from the body and is breathable. However
a pad that is too thick can cause problems by moving around
under heavy physical activity. The thinnest pads use a liner
known as a hard liner. This liner affords very little padding,
yet is still comfortable, and has groves along the pad to aid in
breathing and venting heat away from the body. As for price, the
usual rules apply, bye what you can afford and don’t go for the
cheapest battle belt system. Quality, like many things today, is
usually measured in currency.
GEARING UP
Rigging the battle belt needs to be done right in order for it to
work for you. As a rule you should try to locate your pouches in
the same location every time. If your handgun magazine pouches
are usually on your weak side hip during every day use, then
endeavour to locate them in the same place on your battle belt.
The same goes for the rest of the pouches you may use. I once
tried to wear my handgun on the front of my plate carrier after
carrying strong side hip for over fourteen years. Transitioning
from primary weapon to secondary went drastically wrong
when I reached down to my strong side hip and found there
was no handgun. My training and muscle memory kicked in and
for a moment I was stunned and confused. I soon relocated my
handgun back to my strong side hip. The way in which you rig
your battle belt usually falls into one of three categories. Just
remember that your battle belt is a supplement to your vest
an aid to carry more of what you already carry on your armour.
• Minimalist
A minimalist battle belt can usually be found on the range.
Consisting of a belt, holster, three magazine pouches (1 rifle, 2
handgun) and PFAK, this belt is the bare minimum. There is no
need for all the bells and whistles on this type of belt. Of course
you can add the extra ammo pouch or utility pouch but don’t feel
the need to add pouches just because there is room to fit them.
The only extra pouches I would consider are a dump pouch for
my magazines and a utility pouch for my ear defenders. If you
are going down the range road then choose the same type of
hardware as your duty battle belt but in a more civilian friendly
tone. Try to stay away from the camouflage / military look on
civilian ranges.
TAC GEAR - BATTLE BELTS
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